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Model Engine Builder Issue # 37 Page 1 © 2016-2017 by Elmwood Publishing, Inc. All Rights Reserved
ermission is granted to the Model Editor: Mike Rehmus
Issue P Engine Builder subscriber or Publisher: Toni Rehmus
37 purchaser of this single issue to
reproduce drawing sheets for your
Contributors: Dario Brisighella, Paul Denham,
personal use only. Reproducing any Dwight Giles, Tom Hare, Bob Kradjian, Craig
portion of this issue for any other Libuse, Jack Morris and Todd Wallace.
purpose without written permission from
the publisher constitutes a violation of Elmwood Publishing, Inc.™
Table of Contents copyright law. Furthermore you are President: Mike Rehmus
licensed to build parts and models only
GEM1 Build Article Page 4 for your own use or for a few gifts. Vice–President/Chief Financial Officer:
By Dwight Giles with Mike Rehmus Toni Rehmus
Commercial use is prohibited without
Making A Piloted Valve Seat Cutter Page 13 appropriate approval from the Elmwood Model Engine Builder magazine is published by
By Dwight Giles with Mike Rehmus Publishing, Inc. and the copyright holder. Elmwood Publishing, Inc.™, 737 Elmwood Avenue,
Vallejo, CA 94591–6641, USA
Inverted Center For Making Valves Page 16
By Dwight Giles with Mike Rehmus
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for the Head, one that shows every detail ad-nauseam and one
that is just straight-forward. Why two? Because there are those
experienced model engineers who can take a traditional drawing
and make beautiful parts. There are others, like myself, who stumble
through the process and every little aid is a comfort (and likely
savior of the metal under attack at the time). So I leave conventional
machining arrangements to the experienced modeler and focus
on the less experienced and those likely less well endowed with
dividing heads, CNC, etc.
The first thing to do is to make a couple of jigs to help align the
head as it is machined without requiring a dividing head or rotary
table. These two will make the job easier and more precise:
A jig to hold the head while drilling eleven holes in the top and
bottom. Note that these two pieces
are green in color. That is because I
printed them on a 3D printer to see
if I could make
useful
jigs with it. The answer
is yes, but more on that later! The jig
with the locating pin can be made from
A Throttled Single- a strip of metal with a pin inserted. A

V-Block could substitute for jig
Cylinder Engine
Design by Dwight Giles
printed without the pin. We'll see how
these are used later in this article.
Written by Mike Rehmus A Periphery Hole Drilling Jig
W e are entering the home stretch on this engine. By the end of to hold the head so the three
this entry in the article series, we will have much of the engine holes, Intake, Exhaust and
completed. Fuel system, valve springs, flywheels and few more bits Spark Plug, will end up in
still need to be done and mounting of the engine,adding the electrical their proper locations.
and getting it running, tasks which I expect to complete in the next Neither of these jigs are
issue. absolutely necessary but they
One of the last major parts to need attention is the Head. At first make the work much easier
glance, it seems to be very complicated to the novice and just when machining the Head unless Head Periphery Hole Drilling Jig
another day in the shop to those with more experience. Still, it has you have a dividing head or rotary table. Construction of the periphery
enough holes to demand some care in placing them if we do not Hole Drilling Jig is covered in a separate article on page 30.
want to turn one into scrap metal. I've provided two sets of drawings The first step is to make a suitable blank for the Head. You can
use 1.5" round stock of 2024 aluminum because of its strength
when hot and ease of machining, That done, finish the Head to its final height and cut the rounded
however, almost any aluminum will top. I used a form tool to round the top and then used a file to
do. I did not have any 1.5" round smooth and blend the edge. Remove the Head from the lathe.
stock so I machined mine from an Using the Head Drilling Jig
almost square of 1" aluminum plate
Moving over to the mill, I used the green Jig without the pin to cradle
of indeterminate parentage in the
the Head while I drilled the Intake hole to avoid possibly marking it.
four-jaw chuck. I tend to UWIH (Use
Note: We want the Intake hole just slightly under normal size for a
What I Have) rather than buy items 1
⁄4-40 thread. First center drill the correct location, then use a small
just for the project unless the choice
Cut recess for bar on this end drill, say a 3⁄16" (0.1875") and drill the hole to depth. Next drill the
of material is critical to satisfactory
hole 1⁄16" undersize and to depth. Finally, using a #2 drill (0.221"),
performance of the part.
drill to final size which is 0.008" under a 'normal' drill for the thread.
Once the head was formed
This technique takes care of two issues:
in the four-jaw chuck I cut a
1. We want a tight thread, especially for the Intake system to help
small recess in the end and
prevent leaks and unscrewing under vibration .
epoxied the workpiece to a
2. By drilling 1⁄64" undersize before using a drill of the final size, we
round bar. Then a very small
avoid having a dull or mis-sharpened final drill create an oversized
center hole was drilled so I
hole. Big Tip!
could support the workpiece
Boss (Combustion (I know the 118º tip of the drill is 0.0663" long and, with a 0.035"
with a center in the tailstock.
chamber face) thickness gauge under the tip
(Epoxy is very strong in Setting up to drill
it means I add 0.101.3" to the
tension but does not resist side loads as well.) I finished turning the the Intake hole
depth I drill to get the hole to the
workpiece to size and completely round. Then I cut the boss which
correct depth (0.500"). So we
forms the face of the combustion chamber. (If someone knows a
move the quill down or the mill
proper name for that feature, please e-mail me.) Its purpose just
table up a total of 0.601.3" . See 0.035"
seems to be to align the Head with the Cylinder bore.
page 31 for more detail in the Feeler gage
Once the boss was cut, I ran the lathe at low speed and destroyed
Tips section.
the epoxy bond with a heat gun. Do not attempt to catch the
workpiece in your bare hands!
Once the workpiece has cooled, mount it in a three-jaw chuck Printed Jig
using soft strips of aluminum
Note: This is now the reference
or brass between the chuck
location for every feature in the
jaws and the work. I like to cut
head. Once the intake hole is
strips from a soft drink can for
drilled.
this purpose as you can wrap
With the Intake drilled, we now
them around the work and
use both green jigs to hold the
hold everything in place while
head inverted using either the end
tightening the chuck. Intake hole drilled
Workpiece protected with of the jig with the pin set even
strip from soft drink can
with the fixed Using the Head Periphery Drilling Jig (construction info on page 30)
jaw of the vise Mount the Head on the jig plate with three 5-40 screws insuring
or with a vise Pin Jig
that the bottom projection on the head fits into the recess in the
stop touching the plate. The mount the plate on the jig arm and insert the locating pin
side of the Head. through the arm and into the Intake hole in the plate. Place the jig in
Locate the center the milling vise and insure the pin on the lower right side of the arm
of the Head and Vise stop Scrap
is firmly against the end of the
set your DRO or vise jaw. Use a piece of scrap
handwheel dials Preparing to counterbore the aluminum on the top of the head
to zero. Then, intake and exhaust bores to keep the head screws from
with a #2 center contacting the vise jaw.
drill, place a center hole in all eight locations. All except the spark Center the Intake bore under
plug hole is a through hole. Insure you do not drill the Spark Plug the mill spindle and lock the mill
bore all the way through the head. Finally, counterbore the Intake and table against movement. Intake hole
Exhaust bores Note that you can check the
Pin jig located in with a 7⁄32" drill or alignment by placing the #2 drill
same position end mill. (0.221") in the drill chuck and testing if it Tapping the
Now flip the slides smoothly into the Intake hole. If it does, spark plug hole
head over the workpiece is centered under the mill
leaving the jigs spindle.
in their same Remove the jig from the vise and rotate
position in the it to the Spark position and reinstall it in
Vise stop vise. Three the vise with the locating pins on the top
more holes and side of the vise jaw. Drill with a # 2
Finishing the top of the head need to be drill (0.221") 5⁄8" deep then counterbore
with a 5⁄16" (0.3125") milling cutter, 5⁄32"
made in the top to hold the Rocker Arm deep then tap 1⁄4-32 for the spark plug
Pedestal. Use a #1 center drill to start Remove the jig from the vise and rotate
all three holes and then finish them it to the Exhaust position and reinstall it
to size. Tap the two Rocker Arm in the vise with the locating pins on the
Pedestal hold-down screw positions top and side of the vise jaw. Drill with a
with a 2-56 tap. # 2 drill (0.221") 0.492" deep to meet
At this point the head is finished the Exhaust Valve pocket.
except for drilling the other Deburr the head and
two peripheral ports. (We will set it aside for now, it is
leave cutting the valve seats till complete except for
engine assembly.) valve seat finishing.
Partially finished head

Head Jewelry Another good method to use in making
this part is to mark the two hole
T he pieces of brass comprising the
Head Attachments are simple but
small, and require a reasonable
locations accurately and freehand
sketch the part on the metal and
Size the V-Board
to fit the part
cut it out with a fret or coping saw.
attention to fit and finish. These
Typically the workpiece is supported
pieces, eleven in all, require
by a forked piece of wood, a
small cutters, taps and dies.
V-Slot Bench Pin in watch maker
The pieces will look better
terminology, which gives space
if you make them all out
for the saw to maneuver without
of the same brass alloy
cutting into the work support The V-shaped cutout gives you room to
or they will be of different
accurately cut the rocker arm out of the sheet stock. Clock makers
colors of brass. I suggest
discovered this excellent tool a long time ago. A vise will also be
using 360 free machining
suffice to hold the work but gravity then tends to 'help' the cuts
brass. It is rated at 100 on the
wander and angle the cuts.
machinability scale and polishes to a nice
If you happen to have a CNC mill setup, you can cut the rocker
glow as you can see in the photo above. Polished brass parts on a
arm out as I did (I need the practice). In this case, contrary to some
polished aluminum head nicely dress up an engine. It does contain
previous attempts, it actually did save time and gave me an accurate
lead so, like leaded steel, wash your hands before eating, eh?
part. I made two while I was at it. If I did not have the CNC mill, my
Rocker Arm first choice would be to cut it out with
The rocker arm is the largest head jewel to be made and is a good a fret or coping saw on the V-board.
place to start. There are three important details to the rocker arm In almost all cases, some hand
and the rest is just to make it look good. The location of the holes for CNC'd rocker arms work with a file and abrasive paper
the Rocker Pedestal and Pushrod Clevis are somewhat important will be needed to smooth all the
but slight deviation will not prevent the engine from running. The arcs into one another. I love the
surface that rubs on the Exhaust Valve benefits from a very slight British term for this finishing work . . .
curve to avoid wearing a sharp notch in the arm instead of a fettling—to trim or clean the rough edges.
gradually decreasing arc with sustained operation. The rest of the
arcs and rounds are ornamental and you can make a good Rocker Pedestal Rocker pedestal
rocker arm by approximating their appearance. The rocker
The Rocker Arm Pedestal is the next item on the base
arm in the headline picture was made with manual
agenda. This piece requires both mill and lathe work. I could have
machines using the Gearless Rotary
made the Rocker Pedestal in a single piece but that would be a
Table in issue # 36 shown at
serious effort in work holding probably requiring
here. Not that you cannot use a
more time to make the jigs than the parts.
standard table but this one is
I elected to make the base separate from
easier to control when making
the upright and then silver braze the two
contours that should smoothly
parts together.
merge together. Simple base
The base was machined first,made from a 1⁄8"
thick bar 0.625" x 0.250" and the three holes Reducing the Reducing the
drilled. Further work is just to make it look shaft to 0.25" bottom of the
better. Rounding off the corners would be shaft to 0.125"
Rounded the first step toward prettiness.
corner base The next stage would be to add
the tapered sides which you can do with the jig shown
in the drawings. Mount the Simple Base on the jig and
just skim the side of the jig with a milling cutter to cut
the 8º taper on each side of the base. By flipping
the base around, you can give access to the Moving back to the mill, insuring that I had one of the flat sides of
milling cutter to all four sides. Then you can the lower pedestal on top, I located the side-to-side center of the
round the two ends with a file or on a
belt or disk sander.
Another option, the one I chose is to
cut it out on a CNC mill which allows me
to gain experience with that tool. The
results you see in the picture at the
Base tapering Flat side
head of this section. Even the holes
jig Magnet
were milled using a 1⁄16" carbide end mill.
vise stop
I made the Upright from 1" wide flat brass stock from which I cut
a couple of slices. (I've found that if I starting out making two of
everything sometimes I end up with at least one usable piece.) Pedestal Upright and 0.125" down
First reduce the brass to 0.27" x 0.27" bars 1" long to fit the overall from the top, then drilled a #50
dimensions of the top of the upright. Then hold the workpieces (0.070") hole through the head.
Ready for slitting
vertically in the milling vise and thin the shaft portion to 0.196" Then I tapped the hole 2-56 to a
dimension of the middle depth of 0.125". The threaded side
section of the Upright. of the pedestal head is only 0.071" thick so this will make certain the
Next, holding the head thread is through the entire side. I did not tap all the way through
section in a 4-jaw lathe chuck, the upright head because the other side will be drilled with a #42
the lower part of the upright (0.081") drill and the major diameter of a 2-56 tap is 0.086 which
was first cut to the 0.25" would leave 0.002" deep thread marks in the opposite side. Flip the
diameter of the middle section upright over and drill with a #42 drill 0.1" deep.
Thinning the upright shaft Note the use of a rare earth magnet as a vise stop.
leaving flats on two sides
and then the lower 0.25" was The next step is to slot the head of the upright. Since the mill
reduced to 0.125" to fit into and through the base where it provides spindle is already on the centerline of the upright, the only alignment
locating function when securing the Rocker Pedestal in the engine to make is to insure that the upright is vertical by using a machinist
Head. square or something else thin and square.
Absolute squareness is not a The only caveat here is to insure that the
requirement since this is just a slot centerline of the holes in the base
in which the Rocker Arm will rotate a are close to 90º to the slot in the
small amount around the Rocker Arm upright but reasonably accurate
Pivot. I used a 0.125" carbide end alignment is easy to set up
mill to cut the 0.310" deep slot 0.128" visually.
wide which gives the Rocker Arm a The finished Rocker Arm
small amount of side clearance. Pedestal is shown here on
Note that I used a four tooth end mill. the finished head. It obviously
A two tooth end mill would allow for needs a bit of fettling and
better chip clearance. Slotting the Upright polishing but it is completely
The last task is to round off the functional.
top of the upright. A file, a disk or Note: Built the part one time before
belt sander or a CNC mill can be used for this small and fairly and then discovered it was 0.1" too short when
unimportant task. Rounding makes the part visually pleasing. Once comparing it to the same part on Dwight Giles' finished engine. This
the Rocker arm is in place, few people will be able to point out a type of problem is exactly why I feel an engine has to be made from
slightly uneven or unsymmetrical rounding. Do your best knowing it the drawings I publish. Dwight builds his from pencil sketches and
will be good enough. a well-calibrated eyeball. My translation of the sketches to CAD
Note: The order of the machining steps is important to avoid sometimes creates a problem like this that can only (at least for
possible problems, especially on the ears on the top of the upright. me) be discovered by building the engine. Fortunately I made two
Don't ask me how I know but I do have an upright with just one ear. I Rocker Arm Pedestal Bases so I
should have annealed the brass before I attempted to bend one ear have now made the new upright
back into position, having bent it when drilling after I slotted it. and joined it to the base.
The last operation is to join the base and upright with silver solder. Valve Guides
First insure the brass is clean and without oxidation. Then sparingly
apply a good flux. If you coat everything, you will have a silver- Valve Guides are fairly
colored Rocker Pedestal. Keep it to just the center bore in the base. critical as they have to hold
Insert the upright into the bore and rotate it to achieve a complete the Valves in nearly perfect
coat of flux in the mating parts. You might be able to use a propane concentricity on the Valve
torch on this joint but unless you use a small jeweler's torch like this, Seat to insure that the valves
you will probably find silver solder coating most of the part because will properly seal the combustion
you cannot restrict the heat to just the joint chamber. They also need to seal the valve stems so extra air will
area. I have not used one of these torches; not be drawn past the intake valve and upset the fuel/air ratio. A
your experience may vary. leak in the exhaust would not be very damaging but not cause
I used a Smith Victor Little Torch for this great problems in this style of engine. Were these valve guides
operation as the joint and the parts are surrounded by oil, then the sealing between the guide and stem
quite small and the small flame from this would be important to avoid drawing oil into the combustion
torch is very controllable. chamber producing smoke in the exhaust and poor combustion.
Smith Little Torch
I machined these guides cap the Valve Spring and have
on a Sherline lathe as room for the E-Clip.
they are quite small Note: I like to use end mills as
and the Sherline is well boring bars. One less thing
adapted to working in to buy and store and they are
this size and it is much very sharp (when new) and stiff,
easier to photograph especially the all-carbide mills
details compared to and are less expensive than all
Reaming the valve guide Boring the spring socket
trying to work around the carbide boring bars.
much larger components Pushrod
of my 10" lathe.
The shorter section of the Valve Guide will be inserted in the Head Machining the pushrod is a little more difficult because the 0.094"
so to insure that its bore and the section are concentric, that end's diameter rod must be turned down to 0.086" on one end to allow
O.D. and the bore need to be machined in a single setting. First threading it 2-56. The metal tends to spring away from the cutting
cut the workpiece to the O.D. of the Valve Guide collar and then tool, especially if the tool is Reducing
reduce the outer end to a light press fit in the head. Use the head off-center, dull or of a wrong rod diameter
as a check-gage since sealing the Valve stem bore in the head is selection making it difficult
important. Once to dimension, drill and reamed the Valve Guide to make a non-tapered cut. I
bore to 0.0938". (Then machine decided to use a Traveling
the Valve stems to a close sliding Steady to hold the rod only to
fit when you make them.) Once discover that the two jaws were
this is done, cut off the workpiece too coarse to simultaneously
and hold the finished end in a touch the rod without one hitting the other. I could cut the tips of the
collet. Although the upper part of jaws down to allow them to both touch the rod. However, I decided
the Valve Guide is used to center to simply drill a 0.098" hole in one of the jaws and reduce the
the Valve Springs, I like them to diameter of the rod by 0.008"
be as concentric as possible and a in a single cutting pass.
collet does not mark the soft brass This modification is easy
as could a lathe chuck. Turn the to do and the Traveling
topside of the Valve Guide to ≅ Holding the Valve Guide Steady Rest has two jaws
0.188" to center the Valve Spring. in the collet for finishing and therefore three more jaw
Threading the pushrod ends to drill. Each end of a
Valve Keeper jaw could be drilled for at
The Valve Keepers function to hold the least one additional size.
upper part of the Valve Spring and lock the I will mark the hole size
E-Clip in place at the top of the Valve Stem. on the jaw before I forget
This is a simple turning job with no critical its size especially if I drill
dimensions other than it has to fit on the Valve Stem, additional holes.
Once the end was reduced, I extended it a bit and used the Small First use the cutter to bring the workpiece down to 0.086", the major
Bolt tool set from Issue # 24, page 10, "Making Miniature Bolts diameter size of 2-56 male threads and then slide the die holder over
The Easy Way." Since the die holder is sliding on a rod, the holder
can be held by hand while making the cut under power and the
threading stopped by releasing the holder, allowing it to rotate with
the work. It works very fast and accurately. #2 cutter clamped to tailstock ram "
0.086
You might wonder why I did not use the sizing tool as well.
ow n to
Remember they are made from W1 tool steel drill rod (or silver the cutter shaft and engage the die on
s h aft d
e
steel) and would be damaged attempting to cut tool steel. the workpiece. The Die Holder can be s th
Cut
The last task is to finish the pushrod to length, an easy trimming turned by hand to cut the threads or
job in the lathe. the lathe can be powered on at a very
Pushrod Clevis slow RPM. The Die Holder can be held
by hand and forced over the workpiece
The clevis is another part in which its small shaft. When the threads are long
size makes machining a bit difficult Again I
used the Sherline lathe to first turn the bottom
Cutting 2+56 thread on workpiece
of the part to
size and drill and tap
the through hole that
Tapping the Pushrod Clevis
allows it to screw Die Holder
onto the pushrod. To hold it for squaring,
slotting, boring and tapping the top, I enough, release the die holder, stopping the thread cutting. The die
mounted it in a block of aluminum as holder will revolve on the cutter shaft driven by the workpiece. This is
a jig (as shown on the left) and used the fastest way I know to make good quality small screw threads.
super-glue to hold it in place. The bond The last operation is to cut off the workpiece slightly long to allow
can be broken with a little heat from a a finish cut to be taken on the top of the screw head after the hex on
Pushrod Clevis in block heat gun, or other source of heat that the head is reduced to size.
testing the Clevis Pivot will raise the temperature to around 220º If you have a small enough collet and a Spin Indexer, Hex Collet
F. Machine the top in much the same Block or Dividing Head, you can use one of those to hold the
manner as the Rocker Pedestal, both squaring and slotting the top pivots as you cut the six sides of the head.
and drilling and tapping the pivot hole. Another and perhaps faster method is to take the parent
Clevis Pivot hex stock as I did and drill and tap the stock to hold the
Turn the end of the brass to 0.080" for 0.259" from the pivots and then use a milling cutter to reduce the size of Mini-Hex
end, then reduce the first 0.071" to 0.086" to prepare the head to 0.156" across the flats. If you use the thread Jig
for threading the 2-56 thread. As on the Pushrod, I to hold the screw in place, be certain to move the milling
used the tools from the article, "Making Miniature cutter in the direction that will tighten the screw. Otherwise, a
Bolts The Easy Way" in Issue # 24. spot of super glue will hold it.
Rocker Arm Pivot Drill the smaller hole through which the
This part is the same as the Clevis Pivot with the Pushrod slides with around a 0.004"
change of a few dimensions and is machined in clearance to allow the guide to swivel
the same manner. The overall shaft length is 0.270" but the around the Pushrod Guide Bushing.
thread size and length are the same . . . 2-56 and 0.071" long. This takes up any slight misalignment
that may occur in operation of the
Pushrod Guide pushrod.
The Pushrod Guide holds the Pushrod in place and prevents Pushrod Guide Bushing Final thickness
the relatively small rod from distorting (bowing)
under the pressure of opening the Exhaust The Bushing is a very simple bit of
Valve against Valve Spring resistance. It is on lathe work. The only concern is that
a swivel to allow the Pushrod to move without the Bushing bore and smaller
binding in the guide. diameter O.D. be reasonably concentric. Finish the
This is another small piece that can be hard to hold. smaller O.D. and the bore (test the Bushing bore using
I milled the end of an aluminum block to the width of the the Pushrod to check the
Guide and twice the length of the guide plus a generous allowance fit) and the Bushing in the
for a 1⁄8" milling cutter. The height of the workpiece was about 2 inches guide before you part it off and loose
to allow clamping in a Sherline milling vise for machining. With the concentricity and then cut the Bushing
workpiece mounted vertically, the CNC mill made short work of cutting off the host metal. Measure the length of
the outline of two guides. the workpiece and note how much needs
Since the guide is a simple L-shaped piece, it is as easy to to be faced off to bring it to length. Place
machine it in a manual mill and no doubt, quicker given the setup the guide into a collet or chuck and finish
time for the CNC system. But I try to learn new ways of making it by facing it to length.
engines and learning to program and run a CNC mill is one of them. Cam Follower
(This is all thanks to the generosity of The last piece we will mention in this issue is the cam follower that
Frances Washburn and John Gilmore is Loctited on the end of the pushrod. A simple
who both gave me small CNC mills.) turning exercise I will leave
The nice part of the CNC approach up to you.
is the milling cutter not only cuts the That is it for GEM1 in
outline, but it also bored the larger this issue. In the next and
hole with the same cutter and in the final installment, we'll finish
Milling the outline same setup. I did leave the inside the springs, fuel system, flywheels,
corner rounded as a square corner ignition, assemble the engine and
has no particular function and would require another operation. get it running.
Once the Guide outline is cut, saw the Guide from the block of
aluminum. I used a saw in the mill to accomplish this and then
milled the two copies of the Guide to final thickness.
Drawings start on page 40 There are more GEM1-related articles further on in the magazine
Making a Piloted Valve Seat Cutter If you want to use the Inverted Center, cut the end down to the valve
guide bore size, 0.0928" for about 1⁄4" or so and taper to full diameter
A "piloted" valve seat cutter has a shaft out in 'front' of the over the 0.6" length of the pilot.
cutter that guides the cutter, making it concentric with the Now you can apply the inverted center and proceed to machine the
valve guides, therefore making the valve seat concentric with pilot to final size. I had finished the Valve Guides and was able to
the valve. Valve seat, valve head, valve stem and valve check the pilot diameter against the guide.
stem guide concentricity is essential to avoid valves leaking.
The cutter is made from the same W1 steel as the valves,
water hardening drill rod (silver steel). This steel will
harden just by the quenching effects of the body mass if
we are careful in applying heat. Of course we can harden
and temper it in the traditional manner if we wish.
This cutter can be made from 3⁄8" round bar which will
give it a good cutting range of seat sizes including the 3⁄16"
(0.1875") valve seats of the GEM1.
Start by cutting off a 3.5" length of steel bar and chucking Inverted center engaged
it in the lathe with approximately 1.5" of steel extended from
the jaws.
Note: I'd not normally
recommend a cutoff Once done, cut from the
operation but this pilot diameter outward at a
wanted to show you a 45º angle to form the tool's
tool I like a lot. It will cutting angle. I used the lathe
cut off and profile and compound set to 45º and
comes with 4 inserts (8 progressively reduced the 45º
cutting edges) for $12.00 from section working from the 0.375"
Checking pilot diameter
Banggood. Great price and O.D. until I met the pilot O.D.
Link to an order page against the valve guide
it doesn't seem to break like Slightly polish the workpiece
those plus $100 tool holders and proceed from there.
from the big name companies that I've broken many times. Moving from the lathe to the mill, the tool needs to
Option 1: Cut a minimal center hole in the end, drilling no more be indexed in 90º increments to form the raw cutting
than, say, 1⁄16" deep total so there is just a small amount of bevel. Then teeth. An indexing head, a collet
support the end with a tailstock center and proceed to cut the first 3⁄8" of block or
Shaped workpiece any other
the length down to 0.0928", the size of the valve guide bore for GEM1.
Option 2: Build the Inverted Center first, described ion page 16. It method you choose will work.
can be used to hold the end of the workpiece while you cut it down I chose to use a collet block for its simplicity and
to final size so no center hole will have to be drilled. speed of operation.
Locate the center and end of the workpiece under the spindle center Rotate the workpiece 90º three more times,
and set your DRO or hand dials to '0.' Place a vise stop on the end repeating the cut until all four teeth are formed. If
of the workpiece, you cut a bit too long, it does not matter but for Teeth cut
Setting cutting or position it even appearances sake, try to make the four cuts equal in
height with the side of the length.
vise jaws so you The valve seat cutter is now fully formed except
can index the work for hardening and sharpening the cutting
without having to re- teeth.
find the center and Standard heat treating to harden the
the end. Then mount teeth call for a one-half hour soak
a 1⁄8" flat-nosed per 1" thickness of the metal and
milling cutter in the then elevating the temperature to a
spindle and perform near orange color or about 1450º F for one-half hour per inch of
Setting up cuts in the collet block the following setup thickness. You can follow this process if you have a temperature
before you cut: controlled furnace. However, a torch will work just as well for our
Offset the workpiece from the center of the metal by 0.046" plus one- purposes here.
half the diameter of the cutter, 0.0625" for a total of 0.108" (it is hard to I learned the 'easy' way to
cut to 0.0005," with reliability). harden metal from Dwight
Insure that you are cutting the correct side of the centerline to make the Giles. When hardening a
'hand' of the cutter you want. I chose a right-hand cutter. If you make a shaft such as a camshaft
mistake, the cutter will work as a left-hand cutter as well. With the pilot or a cutter, he mounts the
of the cutter to the right in the vise, the workpiece should be offset to metal in a drill press or mill,
the rear of the mill to cut to the centerline of the workpiece and form the heats it while the metal is
cutting edge. rotating and then plunges
1. Offset the workpiece lengthwise by 0.6" - 0.0625" = 0.537". Start it into the quench while
at the beginning of the taper and visually cut until you have cut back still turning. This seems to
into the 0.375" portion of the workpiece leaving enough to form a minimize distortion because
cutting edge out to the 0.376 O.D. of the relatively uniform
2. Bring the cutter down to touch the O.D. of the pilot and then raise cooling with the workpiece
the cutter or lower the table by 0.001". If you do cut into the pilot a in constant and controlled
little amount, it will not ruin the work as there is still sufficient metal motion.
to guide the cutter in the valve guide. I managed to do that on one I use plain room
side. temperature water for the
Cut into the tapered part of the workpiece until the cutter has cut quench as a 10% solution
slightly into the full diameter of the workpiece which is about 0.227." of brine by weight would
Clean out the remaining metal in the cut.
consume too much of the household relieve the teeth at approximately 5º on the backside of the cutting
salt supply and my wife would certainly Quenching edge. Do not round over or file down the leading edge of the tooth. I find
notice. Brine will give a harder result in the mill control to be easier by working along the length of the tooth rather
because it cools faster than plain water than working across the tooth (which runs a greater risk of rounding
but we don't need a very hard tool in the tooth relief). I use a hard Arkansas stone to give them the final
the first place. Here is more information edge.
on quenching if you want to investigate Note: If you use a bright light to evaluate the cutting edge of the
the process. teeth, you can tell when you are getting close to filing up to the
Once the cutter is cooled enough cutting edge without cutting it. A very fine bright line should show
to handle, polish the oxides off the at the cutting edge when you are finished. Or you
shaft to a shiny condition so the may wish to use layout fluid on the steel and watch
color temperature of the metal can until the color becomes just a very fine line of the
be observed as we temper the teeth. cutting edge. If you file one or two teeth a little too
Tempering is necessary to reduce the much, the cutter will still perform.
Alternatively, if you have a tilting rotary table,
brittleness of the teeth. We will you can arrange to angle it at 45º to match the
attempt to temper the cutter to a taper of the teeth and off the centerline of the mill
yellow color indicating between table by 5º and mill the relief on the teeth. For
410º - 430º F. those with that equipment, you probably know
Heat the body of the cutter, not how to set it up better than I and I leave you to it.
the teeth or pilot and watch the If you look at the cutter on the right, you can see
color change as it moves down the cutting edge to the left. It is acceptable. The
the metal to the teeth. When tooth to the right still has a bit of color on the cutting
the color on the teeth becomes edge and needs a few more strokes to complete.
yellow, submerge the cutter in Although these home-built cutters look a bit rough, they
the quenching bath to stop the cut and leave the valve seat ready for the final lapped
process. finish.
Note, if you have trouble controlling Apply the cutter to the head very gently until you
the temperature, one tool you have see how it cuts. Remember to install the valve guides
in the kitchen is the stove. You can before you cut the valve seats. It may be useful to
easily control the temperature rise make up a couple of trial valve seats in that otherwise
of the metal with either a gas or useless first head you made. How do I know about
electric stove or one of those single the possible
electric 'burners.' presence of a
Using a fine-toothed file first head?
or, better yet, a small square Unfortunately it is a short story beginning,
sharpening stone with care, "Late at night…" THE
END
the bearing and center cartridge so an extension collar was silver
brazed onto it. Soft steel is OK.
Once the Body cooled, it was inserted in a Morse Taper Adapter
Sleeve so it would fit in my lathe spindle. Once in place, I market
the taper adapter sleeve and the Body in line with the end position
of the spindle nose thread, so I could return it to a very close
approximation to the original position if necessary. This is not
absolutely critical as the bore in the blank will be larger than the
by Dwight Giles with Mike Rehmus bearing capsule to allow adjustment of the center concentricity.
Tooling Up and Making Valves — Part 2 3MT to 2 MT Sleeve More on this
W hen last I wrote of this Inverted Center Issue # 19, Page 10), adjustment later.
I explained how to use it in making the valves. This article Once in the
covers one set of methods to make the center. The purpose of this spindle, bore
Center is to avoid having to put a center in the stem of miniature out the head of
valves and to make the valves easier to machine concentrically. the adapter to
As with most projects we undertake, there are always many Alignment marks accommodate the
successful ways to make the object in question and a few wrong bearing cartridge
ways. I will show you the order of a series of methods that have which we'll call
worked for Dwight Giles and me too. He has machined, at last count, the Cartridge from
more than 200 valves for many engines including supercharged now on.
V-8s that are running as much as 20 years after they were built. The Cartridge
Creating a good valve can be a difficult chore. It need not be if you will vary in size
build and use this tool and follow the suggestions in Issue # 19 and Collar according to
in this issue. I would recommend swapping it between lathes as it the size of the
needs to be aligned for use on a single lathe. bearings you can obtain. I tend to UWIH (Use What I Have) rather
than buy items just for the project. Otherwise, why collect so much
Body
junk bits and pieces. OK, I belong to Hoarders Anonymous. By the
To start, I used a #2 Morse Taper blank (I call it the Body). You can time I had finished this project and
find them in your tool drawer had broken one of the two donated
. . . shank on old taper drills bearings, I achieved UWIH status on
and reamers which tend to the build. More about that later.
have soft taper metal; just cut Once I had machined the cavity in the
off the business end) or you blank adapter to accommodate the
can buy them from someone Cartridge, I was ready to drill and tap
like Victor Machinery the required holes in the collar. I chose
Exchange. My blank was 4-40 screws to hold the Cartridge to Alignment mark should
not large enough to hold Brazing an extension collar
the Adapter and 8-32 set screws for have been here
adjusting the alignment placed back in the milling vise and the set screw holes and threads
Square C5 Collet Block
of the Cartridge to the formed. I then drilled and tapped (under power as you can see) the
centerline of the lathe four concentricity adjusting set screw positions. As you can see, I
spindle. To hold the Body, used a regular rather than a gun or taper tap which would have
I put it in a C5 Collet required much less power in cutting the threads but since this was a
Angle Blocks and that in a square C5 relatively short through hole, it worked out OK.
Collet Block so it could Note that the Body is being held in a standard 7⁄8" Collet.
be clamped in my milling It pays to design parts that can be held in off-the-shelf
vise. A mistake I made tooling.
here was not to align Cartridge
the Body in the Collet so
that the mark I made to Once the Body is finished and cleaned
Setting up 45º rotation up, the next task is to build the
reference the Body position in the lathe Cartridge. The Cartridge
spindle was ultimately end up at 45º to consists of three
Machining the Shell bearings, the Spindle
the square formed by the four clamping
and the Shell. The bearings can be of
two sizes, larger near the nose of the
Protractor Spindle and smaller at the rear or they can be all of the same size
screw holes. Because of that, with no change in performance. Shielded or sealed bearings are
I had to add another mark to preferred. The prototype, shown in the headline picture, was built
the Body so that it could be about 10 years ago with shielded bearings on one side and it is still
placed in the same position in good shape.
in the tailstock ram in use. Shell
Once the clamping holes Machining the Shell is a straight-forward operation. I used leaded
and threads were made steel, 12L14 for this part. I first cut the contour of the shell then
in the Body, I then rotated
the Body in the Collet by Shell rear
approximately 45º. I set the
angle by using two Angle
Blocks in contact with two of
the clamping screws to set
the angle. You can do the
Power tapping the Body same thing with a Protractor Shell front
or Combination Machinist's
Square. Once this was
set, the assembly was
drilled and bored the space for the bearings and Spindle. I made the This will also relieve any residual stress in the Spindle metal before
rear barrel of the Shell to a standard C5 Collet size (0.75") should I you perform the final cuts. Then cut the Spindle from the workpiece,
need to chuck it for remedial work. I chose to size the bore for the turn it around, and drill a very small center hole in the rear of the
bearings so that they would just slide in with my fingers, planning Spindle. If you drill a large hole and use a small bearing (with its
to use Loctite® to hold the bearings in place if I got the bore a bit small I.D. and therefore small shaft at the rear of the Spindle, you
oversize. For ease of machining, the rear bearing bore extends may find that the rear O.D. will distort when the Spindle is turned
through the back of the Shell. Finish the bore for the rear bearing between centers. Don't ask me how I know but for a number of
first, then the front bearings. Once the bearing bore(s) was brought reasons, I made a second Spindle for this project.
to size, I parted the Shell from the parent metal. Once you have Before you begin the final machining between centers, if you
the Shell formed, drill the four hold-down screw holes, giving the are going to harden the Spindle nose, now is a good time to do
screw shaft about 0.02" clearance so the Shell can be adjusted for it. To harden the 4130, heat about the first 1⁄4" of the tip bright red
alignment in the Body. (≈1600 º F) and then quench it in room-temperature water (brine if
Spindle you have it). Other metals will require your knowledge about how to
harden and temper the tip. 4130 does not require tempering for this
The Spindle is made from 4130 chrome moly steel. Not because application. Since I will not be making hundreds of valves, I did not
it needs the strength, but this steel is very easy to harden. Heat harden the nose of my Spindle.
the portion you want hard (Rockwell 55 or a bit less) and dunk it in Next step is to put a small center hole in the back of the Spindle.
room-temperature brine. It will not require tempering afterwards. Do this with a Number 1 combination center drill. I made the
Extend the workpiece out from the chuck about 1⁄2" further than the 'backside' center hole quite small as you will see
finished length of the Spindle. Using a #2 Combination later in this article.
Center Drill, create an tapered bore O.D. of about 5⁄32" in Hold a piece of rod in your chuck or collet
diameter (assume this tool may be used to cut valves and turn a 60º nose on it. This is now, as long
for engines the size of not only GEM1 but also as you don't move it, is a nearly perfectly
Wall Fours and Black Widow V8s). If aligned center. Place the Spindle
you get it too big, face the Accurate center nose on this center and support the
workpiece back until the backside end with a center in the tailstock. This
Turning the nose taper O.D. of the bore at the face will assure that the bearings will be in the best
is correct. Then support the possible alignment. If you want to take that extra
workpiece with a tailstock step for concentricity, use a dead center in the tailstock and don't
center and cut the 60º nose forget to lube it. The friction of the center in the spindle is capable of
taper. When this is finished, driving the workpiece as you reduce the shaft to size with relatively
rough out the rest of the small cuts of 0.005" or so.
Spindle, leaving about 0.015" As you turn the Spindle shaft to fit the bearings, try to obtain a
oversize so you won't have 0.0002–0.0003" interference fit. If, like me, you make it an 0.001"
too much to remove when interference fit, you will probably break the bearing inner race as I
you friction-drive the Spindle did on Spindle #1. Worst case, make it a close slip fit and Loctite the
Parting the workpiece so true it between centers. bearings in place on the Spindle shaft.
Note: you do not need to make the shaft a job. You could also use brake cleaner to do this. These products
uniform diameter along its length. The only should be used in a well-ventilated space and using protective hand
locations that need to be accurate are where covering would also be a good idea. These types of cleaners leave
the bearings will be no residue when used as directed, but they usually have some
acetone, Toluene and other quite combustible components. Do not
use Carburetor Cleaner as it leaves a deposit.
Installing the bearings in the Shell was as easy as dampening
the bearing locations in the Shell and the outer bearing races
with Loctite and sliding the two components together. I then set
Using a Sherline lathe as a mini-press the assembly on the nose to allow the Loctite to set up (takes 10
minutes to set and 24 hours to reach full strength).
seated. Other portions of the shaft can be smaller, but not larger, If you look at the Shell assembly at the bottom of the left column,
with no penalty. Spindle with you will see a mistake I made in sequence of operations. Yes, I
Once the shaft is to size, I pressed the bearings bearings should have drilled the four clamping holes
on using a Sherline lathe as the press. The chuck installed in the Shell before I loaded
became the table and the drill chuck pressed on the and locked the Spindle in
inner race of the bearings while place. Fortunately I was just
holding the shaft in alignment. Be able to get a long center drill and drill
certain not to press on the outer race into the collar of the Shell while holding
while performing this installation. the Shell at the rear in a 5C
Once the bearings are in place on the Collet and Collet Block. The center in place
Spindle shaft, the assembly is Think ahead
ready to be inserted into the (when able).
Shell. I used a very small Once the
amount of red Loctite 609 holes in the Shell are drilled and
which is of appropriate deburred, I assemble the
Almost strength and designed to Shell into the Adapter
finished mount bearings with up to 0.006" and install the 4-40
Shell clearance between the race and screws with a washer under the heads to hold it in
front and the shaft or housing. It sets quickly Ground place. Next prepare the four set screws which allow
rear as long as you have degreased set us to properly position the Shell in the Adapter and
the bearing race and the screw to align it with a lathe spindle centerline. I have a fair
housing or shaft. collection of set screws but usually only those with
Note: I use 3M's Prep-Sol to a cup end. It takes just a few seconds to grind the cup
degrease parts prior to using off and create a flat nose on the screw. Dremel tool to
epoxy or Loctite to bond bits Hex the rescue! I keep mine hanging on a hook very near the
together since I have quite a lot Key shop vise with one of those fragile grinding disks in place.
left over from an automobile paint
Put the set screw on a hex wrench and clamp the wrench in the vise Done! Now you have a nifty tool for making valves. See the following
and grind away. Takes about 10 seconds or so to flatten the business article on page 21.
end of an 8-32 set screw. Note: one of the small gotcha issues as reader and Bay Area
I did a preliminary alignment by loosening the clamp screws and Engine Modelers (BAEM) President, Paul Dehham told me is to
with the set screws not pressed against the Shell and pushing the check the orientation of the tang socket in your lathe tailstock ram.
nose of the Center onto the temporary dead center in the lathe He did not and when setting up to do the final alignment on the
spindle. Mark the position of the center so that you can install it in center, found that his Monarch 10EE lathe is built with the
the tailstock ram in the same position every time. I use one of the socket at 45º. Not a big problem but the simple left-right
THE
set screws as the mark and painted it white. The dead center adjustment with the set screws is no longer an option.
END
in the lathe spindle has previously been tested for best
centered position but once again, not planning ahead, I
removed the temporary and perfectly aligned center I had
previously machined.
Preliminary alignment
Once the preliminary alignment

was set, I then put a wiggler with
a dial indicator on the shaft and slightly loosening the holding screws,
and used the set screws to perform a fine adjustment on the Spindle
alignment. Do be certain, once you have moved the Spindle into
alignment, that you torque the clamping screws on the collar and then
snug the set screws without
putting pressure on the
Spindle as you do this. Final alignment
Drawing on Page 50
Reducing the valve stem tip
by Dwight Giles with Mike Rehmus Uncut valve head section
O ne problem that even experienced Model

Engineers endure is valves that will not seat
properly. There can be many causes but frequently
the problem is that the valve head and stem are not
concentric. The following technique for making valves will insure
that your valves are concentric for GEM1.
Extend a piece of 5⁄16" W1 steel (water-hardening drill rod) about Tapered cut
1.5" from your chuck and cut a groove 1.25" from the end, the length
of the finished valve. Then reduce the diameter of the end (about
0.375" of length) to the finished size of the valve stem (0.0938").
When this cut is finished, reduce the rest of the valve stem length in Groove cut at final valve length
a taper up to the bottom of the head that will be machined. (No need
to precisely cut up to that point.) This action will relieve the stress
in the steel before you start working it to final dimension. Then hold
the valve stem end in the Inverted Center (page 16) and reduce the
rest of the valve stem to size.
Inverted center
Grooving tool
Reducing the rest of the valve stem length to size
Note that the entire valve stem does not have to be right at
specification. If you look at where the valve stem must be 'in-spec,'
you will note that it is where it passes through the valve guide which
is the length of the guide plus the downward motion of the valve,
about 0.6".
At this point you could cut the groove for the rotor clip, E-style
in the valve stem tip or you can wait until the valve is otherwise
machined before you cut it. Since E-Clips vary in dimensions,
Note: Pictures taken from backside of one of Dwight Giles lathes.
have them in hand before you now needs to be shaped with a cutting tool ground to the proper
cut the groove and adjust sizes if Valve with contour. There is no specific contour required of the valve head
necessary. retaining ring but the general requirements are that the shape under the valve
If you do not have a collet of head promotes gas flow, not impede it. The valve drawing depicts
the size of the stem, then cut the a optimum detail of the under head contours if you wish to grind a
groove now. The rotor clip is a specific cutting tool for this.
Metric Rotor Clip 1.5mm"
Groove Diameter, 0.5mm
thick, 2.5mm Shaft
Diameter, E Style External
Retaining Ring. If you
A bit rusty;
purchase 100 of them from MSC,
should
they will cost you less than $8 U.S.
have
for part number 67151845. If you
oiled it
need to purchase the clips from
somewhere else, the Manufacturer's Cutting the valve head underside using
part number seems to a smoothly-shaped cutting tool
always start with an
E9, and that, with an Once the valve under head is formed, the valve seat needs
Internet search, will to be cut. A 60º carbide thread cutting tool
find you a number of reground to 45º will work to cut the valve seat
suppliers. The clip is surface on the underside of the valve head.
designed for a groove The valve seat should be cut Under head
diameter of 0.075" and at 45º and be wide enough detail seat not
0.021" width (the clip to extend over both edges lapped in Head
is 0.0196" thick) in of the seat area in the Head.
Imperial dimensions. The seat area on the Head is the important
Under head cutter
If you want to cut the width and the seat area on the valve must be
retainer groove after wider than the seat on the Head or it will cut a groove in the
the valve is otherwise Head seat when you lap and Valve
finished, Insert the later in operation. This is a
valve into a 3⁄32" collet Reversed valve in collet for cutting critical relationship and you
retaining ring groove Valve seating area
(or split collet if using want to achieve a good seal
to be wider on
a lathe chuck) from between the valve and the
valve than head
the backside of the collet and extend the stem out by about 0.125" seat. Otherwise your engine
and cut the groove. Note: Check the actual clip dimensions before may not run well or at all Head
cutting groove. Having finished the valve stem, the valve head depending on the leak size. THE
END
Hardinge HLV-H Modifications- My changes
Making Tool Use Easier 1-The tailstock is rather heavy and
By Steve Jasik with the full bearing bed it is hard
Text and pictures by Steve Jasik to push or pull so I modified it to
T he Hardinge HLV lathe was introduced in the late 1940’s in a

narrow bed form. Around 1959 the HLV-H model with a wider
bed ( ~6.8” ) was introduced along with other features.
float the tailstock with air when
I wanted to move it. My design
was suggested by a helpful hint
The first HLV-H clones appeared in the late 1970’s and I bought in American Machinist magazine
mine around then. Around 2011 or so Hardinge shut down many years ago.
production of manual lathes and left the market to the clone makers. Air is fed to the tailstock via
The history of Hardinge and the HLV lathe are documented on the a switch at 30 PSI or so. The
web pages along with lots of pictures switch handle was designed so one
HLV-H Lathe http://www.lathes.co.uk/hardinge/ could activate it and move the tailstock with one hand.
HLV-H clones http://www.lathes.co.uk/hardinge3/page4.html The air bearing on the bottom surface of the tailstock is in the
Company history http://www.lathes.co.uk/cataract/page7.html shape of two opposed E’s. The channels are 1/8” wide and .030”
Home page http://www.lathes.co.uk/ (find your lathe here) deep. A plastic stop is on the end of the bed to keep the Tailstock
Some Basics from rocketing off when returning it to its home position.
While the HLV-H and it’s clones are some $15K - $25K more The valve was made from taking apart a simple air hose gun. The
expensive than your run of the mill 13” swing engine lathe, they stop is Delrin and screwed into the base casting
have numerous features that make them more pleasant and
accurate to use.
• The machine has an 11' swing and 18" between centers.
• It takes 5C collets (max = 1" through the spindle) and Hardinge 5C
step chucks up to 6" and it includes a lever operated collet closer
• ABEC-9 (Super Precision) Ball Bearing in the spindle mean 50
millionths or less runout
• Infinitely variable speed between 100 and 3,000 RPM
• Threading is facilitated via a quick retract top slide and a single
Tailstock stop
point dog clutch so no threading dial is needed
Actuating the air Air supply oulined in white
• The longitudinal & cross feeds are Infinitely variable via an
electric motor
• The Lathe is mounted on a metal base via 3 bolts so that it need 2-The Quick Reverse lever is a pull up affair which is an addition to
not be leveled. the speed lever. It could have been made simpler had I drilled out
• All Hardinge lathes come with a 1.5 HP 2 speed motor with low the speed lever arm and the pivot rod it was attached to. Instead
and high ranges. I kept everything external and added the plastic box that contains
• Variable speed is by a CVT (continuously variable transmission) a normally open micro switch which causes the motor direction to
• Many of the later model clones come with a 5 HP motor and reverse which is a simple wiring change.
achieve speed control via a variable frequency drive.
Sometimes it is easier to thread rods
using dies. The die holders slide in an
extension drill socket.
Last but not least, in order to reduce the
diameter of thin rod accurately, I made a
fixture to simulate a sliding head lathe along
with bushings for standard stock sizes.
I should note that Hardinge and the
clones come with many standard Sliding die
accessories such as steady and follow holders
Quick reverse lever modification
Other misc mods include:

Frequently used tools & wrenches kept near the headstock including
a mill file for simple chamfering, wrenches for 3 & 4 jaw chucks and
some countersinks for chamfering holes.
At the tail-stock end I built shelfs to hold my Aloris AXA style tool
holders and other miscellany.
Thin rod machining adapter
rests, a taper attachment, … but they were a bit out of my price

range so I made them myself. When I bought the lathe in 1979 or so
it cost me around $9,000. Today the clones new run around $25 -
$30,000.
The differences between the clones and the Hardinge HLV-H
lathes are small. One difference that I found when we rebuilt mine
was that the spindle bearings were one size smaller than the
Hardinge. That may not be true of todays clones.
Have you modified your machine tools to make them easier to

Headstock tools Tailstock tools use? E-mail us with your modifications please. Editor THE
END
engineering exhibitions have all been graced by Bob's models and
his instructional displays. Wherever he exhibits, his area of the show
is always crowded.
For many years Bob has been the Show Coordinator for the
Bay Area Engine Modelers (BAEM). He has kept all of us busy
displaying engines all over Northern California. BAEM has displayed
engines at automobile concours at the Palo Alto Concours at
Stanford University, Pebble Beach, the Blackhawk Museum, The
Hillsboro Concours and to the Goodguys West Coast Nationals. The
Goodguy's first hosted a relatively small display by the BAEM club
which has expanded to a dedicated pavilion hosting the Western
Engine and Model Exhibition (WEME).
The 2017 show will be held August 25-27 in Pleasanton, California at the
Alameda County Fairgrounds. Bob cordially invites you to visit us there.
He has for many years, been the Editor of "The Crank Calls," our
monthly club newsletter.
Beyond teaching, Bob also rescues forlorn engines from many
W henever a group of Model Engineers congregate for a

meeting, lunch or shop visit, one of the topics is likely to
be, "Is our hobby dying off and what can we do about it?" The
sources and restores them to pristine condition. Others he
purchases from those who built them. An example of one remounted
and polished up is this Hoglet engine which was
group answer frequently is 'terminal' and a shrug of shoulders or a designed and built by the late
statement about how the young people of today are more familiar Randall Cox. The engine was
with Facebook than with how an engine works. the subject of a Build Article in
Those answers point out two problems: Issues # 10 & 11 of Model Engine
1. Young people of today are not on Facebook, the average age of Builder. Hoglet has the same
Facebook users is 40 years. I guess most of us are out of date, eh? crankshaft design as a Harley-
2. We are not, as a participant in this hobby, doing much to inform Davidson motorcycle, has a
the younger generation and, in fact, the general public, about How kick-starter, and sounds like a
Things Work and How Does One Build A Model Engine. miniature of that engine. No doubt
Fortunately, at least wherever Dr. Bob Kradjian shows his wide Bob will have this running at the Number 2 Hoglet built
range of models, a significant portion of his display space is used to WEME exhibition this August. by Randall Cox
instruct how engines work (well, IC engines in this case) and how All of Bob's engines are runners and he's
one might go about building a working model. put a lot of running time on them because of the number
The effectiveness of his approach is that young people and of shows he attends. They all run well and, as you can probably
adults always surround his displays. Frequently a young adult will see in the pictures, they are all polished to a fair-thee-well in spite
stop by and tell Bob that the person's father brought him by these of acquiring a 'show patina.' They may have accumulated more
displays when he was a child and that is how he first understood mileage on them being carried between car and show stand than
how engines operate and how the visit triggered his desire to build some cars.
a few engines someday. The NAMES, PRIME and WEME model
The Teaching Models Ignition System
Seal Minor Teaching Model Bob uses this to show an operating
Probably the first thing we Model Engineers ignition system with rotating distributor and
think about this display is WOW, three Seal the spark plugs do "spark" which makes
Minor's sacrificed! Two in displaying the it a demonstrator that requires Bob's
change between raw castings on the left attention. A red light also turns on to show
and finished parts on the right, plus a fully which plug is firing since the spark in a
functioning engine on the fancy display brightly lit pavilion is difficult to see.
box. The viewer can see the changes See-Through Four Cylinder
from the raw to finished castings. The This display model, a German export,
display supports Bob's explanation of what a Model Engineer has to is reminiscent of those see-through
do to move from a raw casting to a finished piece. More on the plastic engine models from Revell,
Seal Minor here. is complete with a three-speed
Four Cycle Demonstrator gearbox and clutch. This model
This demonstration piece is powered. As attracts those careless folk who
the piston moves through the four cycles, try to see if they can demonstrate
lights illuminate near the signs, indicating speed-shifting which results in
the current cycle, in the intake and exhaust bent shifter forks. Shifter forks?
tracts, and the spark plug. These are a How many people know how
good reference tool for those making a a transmission is shifted?
'self tour' and give Bob a superb visual Assuming, of course, they know how to shift a manual transmission
reference when he teaches how a four- in the first place. You do, don't you? Some may even know how to
cycle engine operates. As with the Seal double-clutch a non-synchromesh transmission, right?
Minor display, this is a large and heavy More of Bob's Models
unit. The cylinder bore is nearly 4 inches. Bob is excellent at rescuing old model engines that may just be old
or not really well machined. When he is finished restoring them, they
Wall Four, Four cycle Demonstrator are gleaming works of the Model Engineer's art.
He gives lessons on how to polish metals and
There is great interest in this model is because it has a hand
is the go-to man whenever club members
crank. Children of ALL ages like to turn the
have a question. His article, " How to Polish
handle and see the multi-cylinder engine in
Aluminum For An Award-Winning
action. A red light, which you can see in the
Finish", in issue 80 of Strictly I.C.
combustion changer in the head, comes
magazine, explains how to make
on as each piston comes up to the top in
aluminum shine, really shine.
the compression stroke. Because every
component is 'in the open,' it is easy to
understand the sequence of operation. A shiny example of a Bob Shore's
design, the Silver Angel
Note the wooden base, as for the Seal Lion below. He built a batch The engine won "Best of Show" at the 1998
of beautiful wooden boxes, a few as jewelry boxes for his wife, and NAMES in Detroit, Michigan and
others he adapted for this use. Jewelry box seems an appropriate it also won "Best Automotive"
term, especially when some modelers use a discolored slab at the PRIME show in
of wood to support an Eugene, OR in 1998.
otherwise A Build Article for "Strictly I.C."
superb model. magazine was in the works when
We modelers Robert and Frances Washburn, the
focus on publishers of the magazine retired.
the model. Bob has an interesting back-
ground. His father operated
an auto repair shop
where his first jobs
were cleaning
parts and
g e r V- 8 scraping carbon when he
Challen
was 7 or 8 years old, He then graduated
to grinding valves and turning armatures when he was 12.
During high school, he did tune-up work and graduated to engine
Sea Lion overhauling. His mentors and peer group, besides his father, were a
half-dozen very clever mechanics.
Bob was an US Army Signal Corps photographer in the during
The engine in the photo the Korean War. After discharge he attended medical school at the
at the left, in his hands University of California, San Francisco. During his career as a surgeon
in the photo on the right he volunteered for a tour on the SS Hope. A Board Certified Surgeon,
and on the previous page he is Dr. Answer for the BAEM club and has, even in his retired status,
is his original design, an well-advises us to seek specific medical help for
overhead twin-cam four various medical conditions. I and many others
cylinder engine. It has in the club can certify that he has,
a 1⁄2" bore and stroke, no doubt, kept us alive or at least
glow-plug ignition, and in much better health than if we
uses methanol-based had wandered around the halls of
fuel. At this small size it medicine on our own.
was challenging to get it He is a genuinely nice guy and
DOHC Cam details
running, especially difficult a friend to all. He lives in Northern
was obtaining an adequate California with his beautiful wife
valve stem seal ( ⁄4" valve heads, ⁄16" valve stems), but Bob was
1 1
Christine, a retired nurse who also
successful. served on the SS Hope. Bob, with his THE
award winning engine END
Jig Plate T his jig allows you
to accurately Model Engineering
Jig
drill the three
peripheral holes,
Internet Resources
arm Click on these to explore the Web sites
Head (Spark plug,
Intake and Exhaust
Reference http://www.homemodelenginemachinist.com/forum.php
ports) without a rotary
pin http://modelenginenews.org/
table or dividing head for
http://www.floridaame.org/
GEM1 just by rotating the Jig
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Min_Int_Comb_Eng
Plate until the yellow pin can be
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/R_and_R_engines
inserted through the jig body and
http://www.practicalmachinist.com/
into one of the reference pin holes (S,
http://bbs.homeshopmachinist.net/
I or E) drilled into the Jig Plate.
http://www.cnczone.com/
The engine Head is attached to the Jig
http://forums.americanmachinist.com/
Plate and the two are pivoted on the red pin
http://www.machinistweb.com/forum/
and held from rotating by the yellow Reference
http://www.chaski.org/homemachinist/
Pin. The entire setup is clamped in the milling vise
http://sites.google.com/site/kiwimodelengineering/home
as shown in the picture at the lower right. The three pins, two green
Marv Klotz's software utilities
and one yellow, accurately locate the jig in the vise, allowing it to be
http://modelengineeringwebsite.com/
removed and accurately returned to position as the Head/Jig Plate
http://start-model-engineering.co.uk/
is rotated to a new position.
http://www.model-engineer.co.uk
The concept can be applied to any situation where you need to
http://www.modeleng.org/
accomplish peripheral machining operations with a reasonable
http://www.oldengine.org/members/orrin/lnk_me.htm
degree of accuracy and without setting up heavier and more
http://journeymans-workshop.uk/
complex tools. Note Colors are for clarification only
http://www.phoenix-mes.co.uk/
Page 45 & 46 for drawings http://faculty.frostburg.edu/phys/latta/me/me.html
Alignment pins touching http://pages.cs.wisc.edu/~bolo/workshop/metal.html
vise jaws to locate the http://jrbentley.com/
Head for drilling http://www.jeffree.co.uk/modelengineering.html
Http://www.cd70.co.uk/engindex.html
http://www.frets.com/HomeShopTech/hstpages.html
Do you have more links? Send them to us via this link
THE
END
Reference Pin Holes Head in jig and located in milling vise

I h ave so many screws 1. We want a tight thread, especially for the Intake and this will help
in different sizes and prevent leaks and unscrewing under vibration.
lengths in my shop that I 2. By drilling 1⁄64" undersize before using a drill of the final size, we avoid
cannot keep track of them having a dull or mis-sharpened final drill create an oversized hole.
all. At one time, when I first Calculating Drill Tip Cutting Depth
W
started this hobby, I thought the henever a part drawing indicates drilled holes, blind holes are
more screw types and lengths one marked with both diameter and full diameter depth. The depth
had would be great. And I invested in value does not include the angled tip of the drill (frequently 118º). If
many of those expensive and the depth of the hole is critical, we need to deal with the tip
flimsy steel frames with the The quick way to know how deep
exceedingly fragile plastic the tip will drill is to multiply the drill
drawers which also do not diameter by 0.3 which is the depth to
interchange. Furthermore, which a drill tip will drill beyond the
when I'd go look for a full-diameter hole with a 118º tip.
particular length, I'd Why does this simple calculation
frequently find that I didn't work? Ever hear of the Unit Circle in
have it. Or, I'd find that Trigonometry? That is where the ratio
I need a non-standard comes from. Check it out if you wish.
length. Every 118º tipped drill, regardless of
Now, instead of Stanley 84-205 the drill diameter, will drill to a depth
purchasing many lengths of the same screw size, I am equal to 0.3 times the drill diameter.
purchasing them in a standard 1" length and cutting them to
size as needed. Use a Dremel style tool to grind/cut them to length or, Calculating Drill Cutting Depth On a Curved Surface
if you happen to have this jewel (pictured above) in your toolbox, you
can use it to quickly bring the screws to length. It cuts the screw and O n a curved surface where the curve is intact such as the
periphery of the Head of GEM1, a drill tip may slightly dig into the
metal as we try to find zero depth
when you back the screw out of the tool, the threaded bore reforms 0.035" Feeler gage
the screw thread if it was damaged in shearing. so we can drill to a known depth.
Unfortunately the tool is no longer made and because it is highly I use a hardened, relatively thick
desirable, the price on e-Bay ranges from $70 U.S. to $170 U.S. feeler gage pressed against the
Maybe we need a build article for a similar tool. Let me know if a metal by the drill to set zero
build article on this would interest you. depth. The feeler gage is tangent
to the surface of the metal so we
Drill Holes To Size add its thickness to the overall
by Dwight Giles depth to be drilled. In this case,
I f you want to drill a hole just on-size, first center drill the correct
location, then use a small drill, to drill a pilot hole to depth. Then
drill the hole 1⁄16" undersize and to depth. Finally, using the drill of
the 0.035" thickness, added to
the 0.0663" drill tip height gives
us an extra 0.101" to add to the distance we will move the drill into
final size, finish the hole. This technique takes care of two issues: the workpiece.
Super Glue Elliptical Gears
by Mike Rehmus by Paul Denham
T ired of having your super glue go bad before you open it? Put it
in your freezer. It will keep much longer. As sold, the glue is good
for about 12 months from the date of manufacture so always check
Ihad purchased Gearotic software many years ago and this is the
first time I had a reason to use
elliptical gears. They are ~2" apart
the date code if you can. You can add three months to that one year on centers and produce a 3x
just by storing it in the refrigerator. Or you can extend the life much speed increase when it matters
longer by keeping it in the freezer. Of course you must allow it to for starting the engine on a
warm up before it will work. miniature magneto.
Want to remove super glue from your skin? Acetone will work as The gear teeth are coarse
will, more slowly, vegetable oil. Or it will release itself from your skin because I needed to use my available .094" end mill
in about four days due to the skin's natural oil production. and achieve a reasonable milling time. Both are .25" thick and mesh
Do not get it near your eyes and if you do, it is time to quickly get very well. One gear is of Delrin the other aluminum.
to emergency medical care. Do not attempt to get it out of your eyes The point of this? I wanted my miniature magneto to be capable
by yourself. of starting my hit and miss engine. The high speed of the eccentric
gear drive at the right time makes it 'impulsive' if you know what I
Confusing Coordinate System On Mills? mean.
by Mike Rehmus
D on't feel alone. I have to stop and think sometimes about what Model
the plus and Engine
minus signs mean Builder
about which direction Cartesian Coordinates magazine
to turn the handles. has
If you learned the & Mill Table Sign published
Cartesian Coordinate two
-X+Y +X+Y articles on
System, then you
know where numbers quadrant quadrant building
with the plus and +X miniature
-X
minus signs belong. TABLE TABLE magnetos: Issues #4, page 2, "A
If not, the following DIRECTION
diagram may help.
DIRECTION Miniature Magneto" by John Vietti and
Spi
#16, page 27, " Supercharging the
ndle
The upper right hand

Mill
corner is always –Y +Y Vietti Magneto" by Don Grimm.

the plus and plus TABLE TABLE A picture of the magneto
quadrant and the DIRECTION DIRECTION mounted on
lower left hand corner the test-bed
engine is on
is always the minus -X-Y +X-Y the following
and minus quadrant.
quadrant quadrant page.
Cleaning and protection
by Todd Wallace
Issue #21 Mike talked about removing Cosmoline from tools.
I've found that brake cleaner works great. It will soften almost
all of it for easy removal. Most of my tools I've sprayed with
Sprayon P.D.R.P. It's a light protective spray that wipes off
easy, but is thin enough to soak in to cover the part well.
Elliptical gears and magneto installed on test bed engine.

The Delrin gear appears to be handling the effort nicely
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What About Turning Mill Dials? screw into the jig and then place the jig into a collet or chuck in your
by Mike Rehmus lathe.
R emember this little ditty: RALM which is the acronym for Right Away, Most set screws are somewhat harder than your ordinary off-the-
Left to Me. With a left-hand thread such as most mills use on their
table, turning the handle to the right, drives the table away from your
shelf fasteners because they are made from carbon steel and then
hardened. Carbide is the recommended cutting tool material.
hand. Turning it to the left drives the table towards your hand. This type of point on a set screw is called a 'Dog Point' and they
are commercially available. But the size and length of the point may
Small Key and Setscrew not fit your application therefore forcing us to make them.
by Dwight Giles
A ll too often we run across a pulley or gear that needs to be The different types of points are illustrated below.
keyed and clamped to a shaft and the available room for both is
not present.
A reasonable solution in low torque applications may be to use
a pair of Dog Point set screws as both key and clamp.
If you cannot obtain this type of set screw,
you can make a usable set screw as follows:
Make a jig by machining a round or hex
piece of bar stock of reasonable length.
Drill through the piece
with the drill
required for
the tap that
Water pump for a
Holt four-cylinder
matches the set screw thread.

Tap only deep enough to allow
the set screw to enter the Advertisement from 1913 courtesy of Wikipedia
bore but shallow enough
that the tip sticks out far Supporting An Odd
enough to allow machining Shape In The Mill
to a length that allows it to by Mike Rehmus
bottom out on the keyway in
the shaft. This short thread
in the jig will stop it from being Set screws mounted
I find a Machinist's Jack to be a useful tool. In
this case, I used one to support the open
side of a milling vise. This allows the vise
turned into the jig by the force in the pulley jaws to remain parallel without placing
of the cutting tool. heavily loads on the jaw guides and the
Use a hex key to 'back' the set workpiece was not distorted.
Machinist's Jack
DUAL PURPOSE HEIGHT GAUGE Lathe Work In a Mill
By Dario Brisighella by Mike Rehmus
I was doing a project that required a depth gauge.

Not owning one, I came up with this idea in less
than two hours. Here is a small addition to most
I needed to cut down a clamping nut on a R-8 mandrel for a cutting
saw. No easy way to mount the mandrel in the lathe and no easy
way to hold a large-thread nut in the lathe.
any height gauge that takes only a minimum of My solution was to mount a lathe cutting tool upright in the milling
time and effort. Now I have a nice depth gauge vise and running the mill at an appropriate speed, I engaged the mill
as well. The photographs should be more or less table drive and easily cut the nut down to a desired height.
self explanatory. No dimensions are given as the People have been know to build complicated models with just a
attachment details vary from gauge to gauge. I mill acting as both mill and lathe. Your results may vary.
wonder why the gauge manufactures do not THE
END
include something like this?
Need a Machinist's
Jack Equivalent? Tool
by Mike Rehmus
S ometimes I need more

Machinist's Jacks than I have available or I need
one that is either taller or shorter than the range of the
jack's adjustments.
The all-thread rod couplers and a pair of bolts make a
decent substitute in many cases.
Build Hoglet, the most
popular Build Article in
Model Engine Builder's history
See the Table of Contents in Issues
# 10 & 11, Order those issues here
Aluminum Thread On Thread
by Jack Morris
U
www.modelenginebuilder.com/
se Corn Starch to lubricate the threads and
prevent gauling. That is what the Questar
telescope manufacturer recommends.
Cherry Hill, Joe Martin Foundation's locomotives and steam rollers. Entered in British model engineering
shows, her models have won every possible top prize, some of
Craftsman of the Year Award for 2017 them multiple times. She is now also the recipient of the Joe Martin
Foundation’s top award as the 2017 Craftsman of the Year. When
asked it she would prefer the title to be renamed a more politically
correct “Craftswoman of the year” she politely declined stating, “I
just consider myself a ‘model engineer.’ Model engineers are alike,
all the same regardless of gender.”
Cherry Hinds was born in 1931 in Malvern, Worcestershire
England. Her father, George Hinds founded a company that
manufactured machinery including hop picking equipment. He
also set up a home workshop where Cherry picked up some of her
machining skills early on. The centerpiece was a 1913 Pittler lathe
that had already seen heavy use in the munitions manufacturing
industry and to this day is still in use in her own shop. She built
her first model, a small chest of drawers at age nine or ten and
a scooter for her sister at age 11. During WWII, like many young
people of the era, she built models of military aircraft including a
prize winning, scratch-built Sunderland flying boat. After graduating
from St. Andrews University she went to work for her father’s
business, but not just in the office. She was also expected to learn
the production process, which helped her get even more familiar
with metalworking practices. She worked there many years,
eventually leaving in 1984 to marry toolmaker and fellow model
engineer Ivor Hill.
Her first model engineering project was a Stuart No. 9 horizontal
steam engine built from a set of castings and
plans. After that she moved on to build an
Allchin “Royal Chester” traction engine from a
set of plans by Bill Hughes. The 1:8 scale of
the plans was deemed too large, so her father
advised cutting the size in half to 1:16. This was
to become the scale she would build all future
models in with just a few exceptions. In
by Craig Libuse 1964 her completed Royal Chester won a
T hose familiar with model engineering will probably recognize silver medal and the Stuart No. 9 a bronze,
the work of Cherry Hill. Since the 1960’s she has been building and her model engineering career was off
prize-winning models of ornate Victorian traction engines, road to a good start. Her second model was a
Merryweather fire engine that their archives, where they are available for viewing by the public.
won not only a silver medal Rotatable and zoomable images of the projects are available on
and her first Bradbury Winter their archives web site at www.IMechE.org . The definitive book on
Trophy but also merited a the life and models of Cherry Hill is called “Cherry’s Model Engines”
photo of her and her models by David Carpenter. It is available through Amazon.com.
on the cover of Model Engineer About the Craftsman of the Year Award
magazine in February, 1968.
Starting in 1997, the Joe Martin Foundation for Exceptional
From there she proceeded
Craftsmanship has presented an award to the person selected
to take on the challenge
as having produced a lifetime body of work that is head and
of models that were often
shoulders above all others in that field of miniature metalworking
obscure in origin and not very
craftsmanship. Past winners include gunsmiths, clock makers,
well documented. A great
engravers, model builders and model engineers. The award
amount of research into old
includes an engraved medallion, a certificate and book showing
patent drawings, photos and
previous winners plus a check for $2000. This year, Cherry Hill
literature from archives was
has generously asked that her $2000 award check be returned
required before doing her own
to the foundation to be used to further support craftsmanship.
set of drawings, often having
The foundation also maintains a modern 16,000 square foot
to re-engineer parts of the
museum in Carlsbad, California that displays the best in miniature
project where information was simply unavailable. Sometimes she
craftsmanship and a large web site that makes the museum a free,
would have to design period-correct engineering solutions to fill in
world-wide attraction at www.CraftsmanshipMuseum.com.
functions where existing information was missing.
All Cherry’s models are operational. They would be completed Picture credits
and their functions videotaped before being disassembled, painted
and then reassembled, not be run again. Though capable of being Model Engineer Cover - MyTime Media (Model Engineer)
fired, they would be run on compressed air as a cleaner solution. Thirteen model engines - Institution of Mechanical Engineers
A “test model” using aluminum and other easy-to-work materials Cherry Hill pictures - David Carpenter
was usually built first to confirm the look and function of the working
parts. This model would be detailed, but no parts from the test Editor's Comments
model would end up in the final model. The final model would be I was honored to meet Cherry Hill and her husband at breakfast in a
made using the correct materials with parts representing castings Bed and Breakfast in Harrogate in the U.K. in 2006. They were very
being machined from billet stock and treated to resemble castings. gracious to spend time talking to me just prior to the opening day at
No CNC is used either—all parts are machined using traditional the model engineering exhibition held in the town of Harrogate.
manual machines. After completion, Cherry’s models were entered I had seen Cherry's models displayed in London at the MES and
in competitions where they were always awarded top prizes. For was more than overwhelmed at the level of detail and the perfect
example, she has won the Duke of Edinburgh Award—England’s paint on her models. No picture can do them justice. If you have
highest award—nine times! After that each model was given the opportunity to visit the models located in the Institution of
away to friends, relatives or an organization. The Institution of Mechanical Engineers facility in London, do so.
Mechanical Engineers in London houses 13 of her latest models in
ced
a l l i s Advan
W Roller
Road
Robert Blackburn
Agricultural Engine
Andrey Barclay Traction Engine

Build Humbug
A Ron Chernich Design
With very detailed machining instructions
Can be built on desktop machine tools
A great beginner's project

www.modelenginebuilder.com to order
issues 21-25 & 27-29 or call toll-free
1·866·996·8999 (Outside the U.S. and
Canada - 0·01·707·643·1970)
HEAD BOTTOM VIEW
0
ALUMINUM, 1 REQ'D
.60
.125 .217
.0 0
n.250 x.3
.30
.00 31
.324 1 X SCALE
0
.216
Exhaust
2x 2-56 UNC x .156w118 ° .217 .125
n.125 x.141w118_ .609
.065 .600 .7 .527

.282 .5350
.43 2
.25 4 .250
0
q .299 .153 R.100
.00
0
.305
.609 .609
.305
Intake
.6 2x n.187 x .600w118 °
.7509
.273 Section AH-AH 0 vn.218 x .188 FROM BOTTOM
DRILL # 2 5/8" DEEP THEN
.609 COUNTERBORE 5/32" DEEP
BY 0.312" THEN TAP 1/4-32
q Detail E FOR SPARK PLUG
30 ˚
D 60 ˚
.500 .492
E AH C
60 ˚ .250
TOP
VIEW n1.500
30 ˚
.492
60 ˚ 60 ˚
Section D-D
2x n.187 x .600w118 ° C
AH
60 ˚ INTAKE AND EXHAUST
vn.218 x .188
PORTS ARE TAPPED
5X n.125 x THRU VALVE SEATS
R.100 D Section C-C 1/4-40
SHOULD BE
NO MORE THAN PROJECT
.569 .600 1/64 - 1/32 INCH WIDE GEM1
AFTER LAPPING Drawn by
DO NOT SCALE
Designed by
.031 n.868
DIMENSIONAL TOLERANCES UNLESS
OTHERWISE SPECIFIED
Mike Rehmus Dwight Giles
METRIC IMPERIAL
1 PLACE ±0.3 2 PLACE ±0.01 EDITED BY
BREAK OR DEBURR ALL EDGES AND CORNERS 2 PLACE ±0.03 3 PLACE ±0.001 MIKE REHMUS Project drawing # 1 of 8 3RD
3 PLACE ±0.005 4 PLACE ±0.0005
UNLESS OTHERWISE SPECIFIED ANGLE PROJ.
Model Engine Builder magazine Issue # 37 Page 40 © 2016-2017 by Elmwood Publishing, Inc. All Rights Reserved
HEAD HOLE LOCATIONS
.609 .609 SET PLUG COUNTERBORE
.324 DEPTH SO THAT GAP
BASIC
# NAME X-COORD. Y-COORD. IN PLUG IS IN CENTER
SIZE .217 .299 OF BORE INTO THE
EXHAUST COMBUSTION CHAMBER
1 VALVE 0.188" +0.125 -.217 6
INTAKE
2 VALVE 0.188" 0 -.250 EXHAUST
.609 4
PEDESTAL .125 .065
3 LOCATING 0.125" +0.234 +0.065 1
7 .282
10 3
PEDESTAL
4 HOLD-DOWN .070" +.282 +.324
.250
2 5
PEDESTAL .153 .527
5 HOLD-DOWN .070" +.273 -.153
.527 9
8
6 HEAD BOLT 0.125" 0 +0.609
.125 2 X SCALE TOP OF HEAD
7 HEAD BOLT 0.125" +0.609 0
.305 .273 INTAKE
8 HEAD BOLT 0.125" -0.527 +0.305 .305

EXHAUST
9 HEAD BOLT 0.125" -0.305 -0.527 11
.217
10 HEAD BOLT 0.125" 0 -0.609
SPARK
11 PLUG -0.125 -.0125 +0.217
3/16" reach
long reach plug 1/4" PROJECT
INTAKE GEM1
Drawn by Designed by
DO NOT SCALE
2 X SCALE BOTTOM OF HEAD
OTHERWISE SPECIFIED
METRIC IMPERIAL
3 PLACE ±0.005 4 PLACE ±0.0005
BOTTOM VIEW
n .218
EXTRA HEAD VIEWS
.300
VALVE CHAMBER
CROSS SECTION
.187
TOP VIEW
.187 n .218
.500
AM
AP
Section AM-AM
.163
.437
.600 .412 Fix
SPARK PLUG
CHAMBER .218
CROSS SECTION
.500
.250
n.187
.500
Section AP-AP
AP
AM
PROJECT
GEM1
DO NOT SCALE
OTHERWISE SPECIFIED
METRIC IMPERIAL
3 PLACE ±0.005 4 PLACE ±0.0005
VALVE
STEEL, 2 REQ'D .039
2 X SCALE
n.281
.094 R.031 .101
H
.025
J
.094 45 ° 65 °
n.0928
.055
.021 R.031
.000
.094
n.075
Detail H
1.141
1.169
1.186
1.225
1.250
Detail J
VALVE GUIDE
VALVE SPRINGS BRASS, 2 REQ'D
0.015" MUSIC WIRE, 1 REQ'D FOR INTAKE MAKE SPRING FIRST THEN 2 X SCALE
0.026" MUSIC WIRE, 1 REQ'D FOR EXHAUST DETERMINE O.D. OF VALVE
8 TURNS, 2 X SCALE GUIDE UPPER CYLINDER
n.250
n.188 n.0938 x THRU

AN AN
.625
AE
.188
.344
.156
.125
.189 n.015 .031
.000
or Section AE-AE
Section AN-AN
n.026 .125
AE
WOUND ON 0.171" MANDREL
WITH 16 TPI CARRIAGE FEED
SEE ISSUE # 11, PAGE 9 FOR PROJECT
THE HOW-TO ARTICLE GEM1
MAKE THESE FIRST AND THEN
DETERMINE I.D. OF SPRING Drawn by Designed by
DO NOT SCALE
POCKET ON VALVE KEEPER DIMENSIONAL TOLERANCES UNLESS
OTHERWISE SPECIFIED
METRIC IMPERIAL
3 PLACE ±0.005 4 PLACE ±0.0005
PIVOT, CLEVIS PUSHROD CLEVIS
BRASS, 1 REQ'D BRASS, 1 REQ'D
2 X SCALE 2 X SCALE
.188 .312
.237
.063 .071
.180 N N
.156
TAP ONE
2-56 .624 SIDE 2-56
n.080
.312 .063
DRILL & TAP
2-56 THRU
.322
.259
.071
.000
Section N-N
.125
VALVE KEEPER .354
BRASS, 2 REQ'D
2 X SCALE
n.081 .250
n.265
n.067
n.0938 x THRU .250
n.156 .187 R.125
Ø.175 v.031
1.9mm E-9 Rotor CLIP
STEEL, 2 REQ'D
5 X SCALE
.031
n.175
.019
.188 .032
.125 RECOMMEND MEASURING
n.209
THIS COMPONENT BEFORE
To fit over spring. Cut MACHINING GROOVE IN VALVES
after making spring Ø.073
n.265
Ø.209 v.125
PROJECT
GEM1
DO NOT SCALE
OTHERWISE SPECIFIED
METRIC IMPERIAL
3 PLACE ±0.005 4 PLACE ±0.0005
ROCKER PEDESTAL
BRASS, 1 REQ'D
PIVOT, ROCKER ARM
3 X SCALE
BRASS, 1 REQ'D
3 X SCALE
.063 .199 .125

2-56 THREAD
16 ° .180
.156
.219 2X n.094
.387
.324
.125
.000
.438 n.0800
.270 n.067 ONE SIDE

.128 for 2-56 TAP
.071
R.135
PUSHROD
1.000
.125 STEEL, 1 REQ'D
.875 1 X SCALE
.400 n.086
.275
.600 n.094 2-56
n .250
.195 .350
.543
.250 3.543
.125
.125
.000
CAM FOLLOWER
ASSEMBLED PUSHROD
ROD CLEVIS
JAM NUT
PROJECT
GEM1
DO NOT SCALE
OTHERWISE SPECIFIED
METRIC IMPERIAL
3 PLACE ±0.005 4 PLACE ±0.0005
PUSHROD GUIDE PUSHROD GUIDE BUSHING
BRASS OR ALUMINUM, 1 REQ'D BRASS, 1 REQ'D
2 X SCALE 2 X SCALE
n.188 x THRU
.125 n.281
.500 .102
n.096 x THRU
.532 n.187
.282 n.113 x THRU
R.125
.188 .313 .203 .205 .268
.010 X .010 .063

OR CUT SQUARE
CAM FOLLOWER LOCTITE CAM FOLLOWER

BRASS, 1 REQ'D ONTO PUSHROD
ROCKER ARM 2 X SCALE
BRASS, 1 REQ'D
2 X SCALE 1.375 n.125 n.094 x.1875
.000
.125
.688
R.010
R.025
.250
2-56 PUSHROD CLEVIS LOCK NUT

1.375 .125 BRASS, 1 REQ'D
2 X SCALE
R5.000
R.125 R.097
3/16 1/16
.280
n.087 SLIGHT CURVE
R.098
R1.5
n.087 R.125
PROJECT
GEM1
DO NOT SCALE
OTHERWISE SPECIFIED
METRIC IMPERIAL
3 PLACE ±0.005 4 PLACE ±0.0005
PIVOT, ROCKER ARM ROCKER PEDESTAL UPRIGHT
ROCKER PEDESTAL BASE BRASS, 1 REQ'D 2-56 UNC xTHRU ONE SIDE
BRASS, 1 REQ'D BRASS, 1 REQ'D
2 X SCALE 1 X SCALE
1 X SCALE .310 v n0.081 xTHRU OTHER
n.080
.438
.063 .199
2-56 .180
.219
.156
.071
R.135
.875
.690
.600
.250
.000
1.000
.625
.071 1.000 .195 n.125
.125 .400 .350
2X n.094 xTHRU
.125
.250
16 ° .270 .196
.128
R.094 .125 .185 n.250
.250 .270
n.125 xTHRU .125 ROCKER PEDESTAL BASE JIG .125
ALUMINUM, 1 REQ'D
ALIGNMENT PIN FOR BASE JIG
2 X SCALE 6-32 UNC x .500
R.125 BRASS OR STEEL, 1 REQ'D
2 X SCALE .250 n.125 xTHRU vn.125 x .250
.750
.182
.500 .250 .125 .250
n.125
.000
1.000
n.093
.712
.500
.000
HOLD DOWN SCREW FOR BASE JIG
BRASS OR STEEL, 1 REQ'D
2 X SCALE
.250
.156 .850 .500
.125 .350 .375

n.124
PROJECT
GEM1
n.107 Drawn by Designed by
.181 DO NOT SCALE
6-32 THREAD Mike Rehmus
OTHERWISE SPECIFIED
Dwight Giles
METRIC IMPERIAL
3 PLACE ±0.005 4 PLACE ±0.0005
HEAD PERIPHERY DRILLING JIG PLATE HOLE POSITIONS
JIG PLATE
ALUMINUM, 1 REQ'D
1 X SCALE HOLE DIAMETER x y
AL
NOTE
ONLY 3 HEAD 3x n.126 x THRU
1 0.251xTHRU 0.0 0.0
SCREW POSTIONS
ARE USED TO HOLD n.251 x THRU
2 HEAD
THE HEAD TO THE JIG TAP 2-56 0.0 + 0.609
Section AL-AL CENTER PIN SCREW
.625 .250
.313 STEEL, 1 REQ'D
2 X SCALE EXHAUST 0.126xTHRU - 0.313 + 0.541
2
.609
.541 SPARK 0.126xTHRU - 0.524 - 0.313
1 n .869
.035 n 1.500 5 HEAD
.313 3 X TAP 5-40 TAP 2-56 - 0.527 + 0.305
THRU SCREW
5 6
n.250 6 HEAD
.527 TAP 2-56 - 0.527 + 0.305
.305 .305 SCREW
REFERENCE PIN
.542 .625 STEEL, 1 REQ'D INTAKE 0.126xTHRU + 0.625 0.0
2 X SCALE
.468
.250
AL
JIG ARM
LOCATING PIN .625 ALUMINUM, 1 REQ'D
STEEL, 2 REQ'D .365 1 X SCALE
2 X SCALE
n.250 n.126
n.250 .500 HEAD PERIPHERY DRILLING JIG
n.125 n.126 n.126 .250 HEAD MACHINING OPTION
n.125 .126 USE WHEN DIVIDING
n.251 HEAD IS NOT AVAILABLE
.025 X .025 ASSEMBLED JIG WITH HEAD IS
SHOWN ON THE FOLLOWING PAGE
ALL THRU HOLES .750
.250
.500
.250 PROJECT
GEM1 HEAD DRILLING JIG
.750
.237
.000
4.000
3.625
3.000
.025 X .025 DO NOT SCALE
OTHERWISE SPECIFIED
Mike Rehmus Mike Rehmus
METRIC IMPERIAL
1 PLACE ±0.3
BREAK OR DEBURR ALL EDGES AND CORNERS 2 PLACE ±0.03
2 PLACE ±0.01
3 PLACE ±0.001
EDITED BY
MIKE REHMUS Project drawing # 1 of 2 3RD
3 PLACE ±0.005 4 PLACE ±0.0005
HEAD PERIPHERY DRILLING JIG
HEAD MACHINING OPTION
USE WHEN DIVIDING
HEAD IS NOT AVAILABLE
THIS PAGE IS TO ALLOW

EVALUATION OF THE JIG
PROJECT
GEM1 HEAD DRILLING JIG
DO NOT SCALE
OTHERWISE SPECIFIED
Mike Rehmus Mike Rehmus
METRIC IMPERIAL
BREAK OR DEBURR ALL EDGES AND CORNERS

1 PLACE ±0.3
2 PLACE ±0.03
2 PLACE ±0.01
3 PLACE ±0.001
EDITED BY
MIKE REHMUS Project drawing # 2 of 2 3RD
3 PLACE ±0.005 4 PLACE ±0.0005
7 - BEARING HOUSING
STEEL 1 REQ'D
Section A-A 2 x Scale
1.563 A
n1.250 4 X n.156 x THRU

5
5
2
n.594 n.315 n.250 .500 .600 .400 n.328 n.500 n.687
6
1
n1.000 7
4
.563
.125 A
3
.938 .500
6 - LIVE CENTER
n 3mm STEEL, 1 REQ'D IMPORTANT CONSTRUCTION NOTE
(.1181) 1 x SCALE
BEARING FIT TO INSURE THE CENTER RUNS TRUE, YOU MUST MACHINE THE BEARING SEATS ON THE
2.002 LIVE CENTER, PART 6, BY HOLDING BOTH CENTER DRILLED HOLES BETWEEN CENTERS WITH
n.1875
THE NOSE OF THE PART TOWARD THE SPINDLE. MAKE A TRUE RUNNING DEAD CENTER FOR THE
.377 n.313
n.185 BEARING FIT SPINDLE BY MACHINING A 60º CENTER FROM STOCK HELD IN A COLLET OR CHUCK.
10  LIVE CENTER
SPINDLE END NO LUBE LUBE
.400
.437 1.063
.125
COUNTERSINK WITH
CENTER DRILL 1/16 X 3/16 CENTER
3/64 X 1/8" DRILL BEARING SEATS
THEN FRICTION-DRIVE PART # 6 WHILE PERFORMING FINAL MACHINING ON THE BEARING SEAT AREAS. USE
LIGHT CUTS AND SHARP TOOLS. YOU COULD USE A LATHE DOG TO DRIVE THE WORKPIECE IF YOU WISH.
2 - #3 MORSE TAPER
#3 MORSE TAPER BLANK,1 REQ'D
.250 1 X SCALE
4 X 6-32 UNC x .25
n1.000 Item Quantity Part Name Comment
n1.250 DRILL AND TAP 8-32 1 4 8-32 SET SCREW

4 PLACES 90 DEG.
2 1 #3 MORSE TAPER
C 3 2 R3 BEARING
1.000 4 4 6-32 X.375 SHCS

5 2 3 X 8 mm BEARING
n.625
6 1 LIVE CENTER 2.002 X 0.313 DIA. STEEL
C
.375 7 1 BEARING HOUSING 1.563 X 1.25 DIA STEEL Break or deburr edges
Section C-C
unless otherwise specified
Valve Live Center

DESIGNED BY Project
DWG # OF
1 OF 1
PROJECT Drawn By
Dwight Giles DWG
OTHERWISE SPECIFIED Edited by
METRIC IMPERIAL
Mike Rehmus
1 PLACE ±0.3 2 PLACE ±0.01
Supplement to Model Engine Builder magazine Issue # 19, Drawing Page 9 of 16

2 PLACE ±0.03
3 PLACE ±0.005
3 PLACE ±0.001
4 PLACE ±0.0005
©©2008
Inverted
by
2006 by
ScaleCenter
Do Not
Elmwood Publishing, Inc. Tom Hare 3rd
ANGLE PROJ.
DO NOT SCALE
OTHERWISE SPECIFIED
TomRehmus
Mike Hare Dwight Giles
METRIC IMPERIAL
3 PLACE ±0.005 4 PLACE ±0.0005
SHERLINE TOOLS The Model
Engineer’s Choice
Customer Support
The four
perfectly with the others and with
MADE IN USA the power of the motor to provide Ask our customers and they will
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keeping overall weight to amounts
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can call and talk to a real person,
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not a phone menu. We employ
are right for

an expert machinist just to
Model Versatile Design answer customer questions, and
engine
your shop As new machines were introduced we provide the most complete
builders... and the accessory line grew to be illustrated instructions of any line
ask about the largest available from one of machine tools. In addition, the
Sherline’s Sound Engineering manufacturer for any machine Sherline web site is packed with
new CNC Right from the start the original tool in the world, compatibility information and includes copies
cam grinder! design was based on applying with previous versions was of all our printed instructions,
sound engineering principles to always a consideration. As a literature, help sheets, tips,
solve the main problem in the result, parts and accessories are projects, videos and resources.
tools that had preceded it—lack of still available for machines going It is rare to find a really good
rigidity. The use back to some of the first made here craftsman who doesn’t use the
P/N 6200 Deluxe machine of extrusions in the USA in the early 1970’s. best tools he can obtain. Skill
shop with accessories allowed for rigid Modern advancements like digital and experience will take you so
$2775.00 cross sections readouts and computer control can far, and beyond that better tools
with minimal also be retrofitted to decades old are the only way to improve your
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Model 5400 ...A complete machine shop for lathe’s introduction in the early Ground steel dovetailed lathe
small parts!
SHERLINE
Deluxe Mill 1970’s the shapes and processes beds and mill columns for rigidity,
$800.00 have continually been fine anodized aircraft grade aluminum
extrusions for durability,
PRODUCTS
tuned to assure that each piece
is properly designed to work powerful DC spindle motors for
cutting harder metals, preloaded
spindle bearings and adjustable INCORPORATED 1974
• Lathes from $600.00 gibs on all axes for long lasting 3235 Executive Ridge • Vista • CA 92081
• Mills from $650.00 accuracy—these are more things Local/International: 1-760-727-5857
to consider when shopping for Fax: 1-760-727-7857
• All machines and E-mail: sherline@sherline.com
tools. Sherline has always made it
accessories available in 800-541-0735
a priority to maintain the highest
inch or metric calibrations
www.sherline.com
possible quality while continuing
and in manual, digital
to improve as our factory CNC
readout or computer
controlled configurations production machines have gotten Factory direct secure ordering site:
more capable over the years. www.SherlineDirect.com

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Want to build your

Buy Your Machine from the Other Guys

Digital Back Issues

A Throttled Single- a strip of metal with a pin inserted. A

Partially finished head

Once the preliminary alignment

by Dwight Giles with Mike Rehmus Uncut valve head section

O ne problem that even experienced Model

Reducing the rest of the valve stem length to size

T he Hardinge HLV lathe was introduced in the late 1940’s in a

Quick reverse lever modification

Other misc mods include:

rests, a taper attachment, … but they were a bit out of my price

Have you modified your machine tools to make them easier to

W henever a group of Model Engineers congregate for a

Do you have more links? Send them to us via this link

Reference Pin Holes Head in jig and located in milling vise

The upper right hand

corner is always –Y +Y Vietti Magneto" by Don Grimm.

Elliptical gears and magneto installed on test bed engine.

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matches the set screw thread.

I was doing a project that required a depth gauge.

S ometimes I need more

Andrey Barclay Traction Engine

A great beginner's project

.065 .600 .7 .527

8 HEAD BOLT 0.125" -0.527 +0.305 .305

n.188 n.0938 x THRU

.063 .199 .125

.270 n.067 ONE SIDE

.010 X .010 .063

CAM FOLLOWER LOCTITE CAM FOLLOWER

2-56 PUSHROD CLEVIS LOCK NUT

n.087 SLIGHT CURVE

.125 .350 .375

THIS PAGE IS TO ALLOW

BREAK OR DEBURR ALL EDGES AND CORNERS

n1.250 4 X n.156 x THRU

n.594 n.315 n.250 .500 .600 .400 n.328 n.500 n.687

n1.250 DRILL AND TAP 8-32 1 4 8-32 SET SCREW

1.000 4 4 6-32 X.375 SHCS

Valve Live Center

Supplement to Model Engine Builder magazine Issue # 19, Drawing Page 9 of 16

are right for

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