Bonophool Banerjee

EGGS

Eggs are one of the most nutritious and versatile foods in the
kitchen are served on their own, used as an ingredient in many
dishes starting from soup to desserts. It provides texture, structure,
flavour and moisture as well as the nutrition. Eggs can be brown or
white; colour has no effect on quality or flavour but depends on the
breed of the hen.

NUTRITIONAL VALUE

The nutritional value of eggs varies with their size; it is not an

important factor in judging their quality. Larger the eggs, of course
have more food value than small ones. A single large egg provides
6.5grm of protein or about 13% of the recommended daily intake
for adults, as well as 80 calories and good amount of iron,
phosphorus, thiamine and vitamins like A, D,E and K. The
disadvantage of egg as a staple diet is their high cholesterol
content. The yolk of an egg which is about 50%
water,34%lipids,fats and related substances and 16% protein with
traces of glucose and minerals. Egg is made up of approximately
11% shell and 89% interior. The composition of the shell is
important from the viewpoint of food safety, sanitation, and
aesthetics. It contains calcium, carbonate (94%), magnesium
carbonate (1%), calcium phosphate (1%), and 4% organic matter. It
is important to recognize that there has been considerable
information that the hen's diet can impact the composition of the
egg.

COMPOSITION

A whole egg consists primarily of a yolk, a white, and a shell. In

addition, it contains a membrane that lines the shell and forms an
air cell at the large end, and two white strands called chalazae that
hold the yolk centered. Figure 24.1 is a cross-sectional diagram that
shows the location of these features.
1. The yolk is high in both fat and protein, and it contains iron and
several vitamins. Its color ranges from light to dark yellow,
depending on the diet of the chicken.
2. The white is primarily albumin protein, which is clear and soluble
when raw but white and firm when coagulated. The white also
contains sulphur. The white has two parts: a thick portion that
surrounds the yolk, and a thinner, more liquid portion outside of
this.
3. The shell is not the perfect package, in spite of what you may
have heard. Not only is it fragile but it is also porous, allowing
odours and flavours to be absorbed by the egg and allowing the
egg to lose moisture even if unbroken.

Composition of hen’s egg.

Parts of Total Wat Protein Fat(

Egg weight(%) er (%) %)
(%)
Whole 100 65 13 11
egg
White 58 88 13 ----
Yolk 31 48 18 33

EGG GRADES
The grading of quality, which is not mandatory by law,is
independent of the different sizes available.
GRADE DESCRIPTION
AA Shell: clean; unbroken, practically normal
Air cell: 1/8 inch or less in depth; practically regular
White: clear, firm, "upright"
 Yolk: well centered; outline slightly defined; free from
defects

A Shell: clean; unbroken, practically normal

Air cell: 2/8 inch or less in depth; practically regular
White: clear, may be reasonably firm
Yolk: may be fairly well centered; outline fairly well defined;
practically free from defects

B Shell: clean to slightly stained; unbroken, may be slightly

abnormal
Air cell: 3/8 inch or less in depth, may be free but not bubbly
White: clear, may be slightly weak
Yolk: may be off center, outline well defined, may be slightly
enlarged and fattened, and may show definite but not serious
defects

C Shell:clean to moderately stained, unbroken, may be

abnormal.
Air cell: may be over 3/8 inch in depth, may be free or bubbly
White: may be weak and watery, small blood clots or spots
may be present
Yolk: may be off center, enlarged and flattened, may show
clearly visible germdevelopment but no blood; may show other
serious defects; outline may be plainly visible.
In any case ,slow deterioration in quality goes as long as eggs are
stored, SO PROMT USE IS THE BEST USE.

The best grade (AA) has a firm yolk and white that stand up high
when broken onto a flat surface and do not spread over a large
area. In the shell, the yolk is well centered, and the air sac is small.
As eggs age,they lose density. The thin part of the white becomes
larger, and the egg spreads over a larger area when broken. Also,
the air sac becomes larger as the egg loses moisture through the
shell.

EGG SIZES

CLASSIFICATIO MIN
N Wt./EGG

JUMBO 70 gm
 EXTRA LARGE 63 gm
LARGE 56 gm
MEDIUM 49 gm
SMALL 42 gm
PEE WEE 35 gm

Most commonly used eggs in commercial and home

cookery are Large Eggs.
Jumbo and Extra Large eggs are sometimes used as
B’Fast eggs for poaching and frying
Medium, Small and Pee Wee eggs are rarely used.

Storage of eggs
Egg should be stored in the refrigerator in their cartoon to maintain
maximum freshness and to avoid absorbing other food odours
through their porous shells.
• Cool place 0-5 C (32-41 F)
• Away from possible contaminants such as raw meat.
• First in first out
• Hands should be washed before and after handling
Types of Eggs used
Hen, Turkey,Guinea fowls,Ducks, Geese

Market forms Of Eggs

• Fresh eggs: - Often used for B’fast cookery
• Frozen Eggs: - Includes whole egg, whites, yolks, whole egg
with extra yolk etc. It should be pasteurized before freezing. It
is used for scrambled eggs, omelets, French toasts and in
baking.
• Dried eggs: - Should be pasteurized before drying. Includes
whole egg whites & yolks. Moisture is removed through
evaporation. They are primarily used for baking.

GENERAL COOKING PRINCIPLES

The most important rule of egg cookery is simple: Avoid high
temperatures and long cooking times. In other words, do not
overcook. This should be a familiar rule by now. Overcooking
produces tough eggs, causes discoloration, and affects flavour.

Coagulation
Eggs are largely protein, so the principle of coagulation is important
to consider.
Eggs coagulate at the following temperatures:
Whole eggs,beaten about 156°F (69°C)
Whites 140° to 149°F (60° to 65°C)
Yolks 144° to 158°F (62° to 70°C)
Custard (whole eggs plus liquid) 175° to 185°F (79° to
85°C)

Note that whites coagulate or cook before yolks do. This is why it is
possible to cook eggs with firm whites but soft yolks. Note also that
when eggs are mixed with a liquid, they become firm at a higher
temperature. However, 185°F (85°C) is still much lower than the
temperature of a sauté pan or skillet over high heat. As the
temperature of coagulation is reached, the eggs change from
semiliquid to solid, and they become opaque. If their temperature
continues to rise, they become even firmer. An overcooked egg is
tough and rubbery. Low temperatures produce the best-cooked
eggs. If egg-liquid mixtures such as custards and scrambled eggs
are overcooked, the egg solids separate from the liquids, or curdle
(Synerasis).This is often seen as tough, watery scrambled eggs.

Sulphur
The familiar green ring you often see in hard-cooked eggs is caused
by cooking at high temperatures or cooking too long. The same
green colour appears in scrambled eggs that are overcooked or
held too long in the steam table. This ring results when the sulphur
in the egg whites reacts with the iron in the yolk to form iron
sulphide, a compound that has a green colour and a strong odour
and flavour. The best way to avoid green eggs is to use low
temperatures and short cooking and holding times.

Foams
Beaten egg whites are used to give lightness and rising power to
soufflés, puffy omelettes, cakes, some pancakes and waffles, and
other products. The following guidelines will help you handle beaten
egg whites properly.

1. Fat inhibits foaming.

When separating eggs, be careful not to get any yolk in the whites.
Yolks contain fats. Use very clean equipment when beating whites.

2. Mild acids help foaming.

A small amount of lemon juice or cream of tartar gives more
volume and stability to beaten egg whites. Use about 2 teaspoons
cream of tartar per pound of egg whites (20 mL per kg).
3. Egg whites foam better at room temperature.
Remove them from the cooler 1 hour before beating.

4. Do not overbeat.
Beaten egg whites should look moist and shiny. Overbeaten eggs
look dry and curdled and have lost much of their ability to raise
soufflés and cakes.

5. Sugar makes foams more stable.

When making sweet puffed omelettes and dessert soufflés, add
some of the sugar to the partially beaten whites and continue to
beat to proper stiffness.(This will take longer than when no sugar is
added.) The soufflé will be more stable before and after baking.

USES OF EGG IN COOKERY

BINDING AND COATING
Egg used in such food mixtures as meat loaf or croquettes is
distributed through the mixture. Upon heating, the proteins
coagulate, binding the food into a cohesive mass of a desired form.
This is why croquettes, for example, retain their shape during the
cooking process. Frequently an outer coating of flour, breadcrumbs,
cereal, or butter is added to a food to enhance its appearance,
texture or flavour. An egg batter provides a binder for added
coatings.
LEAVENINGS
Foam is created when egg white is beaten. The foam is made of
bubbles surrounded by a thin , elastic film of egg white . When the
foam is incorporated into a mixture, it provides leavening for such
products as omelettes, soufflés, sponge cakes and meringues.
When these products are heated the air bubbles expand and the
egg white film hardens. The volume of egg yolks makes its foaming
power considerably lower than that of the egg white.
EGG WHITE FOAM
Egg white foams are used in many foods to make them light and
porous. Egg white foam is colloid of bubbles of air surrounded by
part of the albumen that has been denatured by the beating of egg
white. The denatured albumen is stiff and gives stability of foam. An
egg white is beaten, it loses its elasticity but some elasticity is
necessary in an egg white foam used in such dishes as soufflés and
cakes , so that the air cells can expand without breaking down the
cell walls . This expansion occurs in the heated oven before the
albumen becomes rigid.
MERINGUES: Soft meringues are made with 2 tbsp of sugar for
each egg white. Topping the fillings while they are still hot and
baking the pie at 375 F (190 C) until the meringues reach a light
colour yield a stable meringue and reduce the amount of
liquid (called leakage) collecting under the meringue and the
tendency to the meringue to slip from the surface of the pie. Hard
meringues have a much higher proportion of sugar to the egg
white. As much as 1/4 cup of sugar per egg white may be used.
Since sugar retards the denaturisation of the egg proteins, a longer
whipping time is necessary . Hard meringue can be shaped into
such subjects such as baskets, hearts, pie, shells or animal figures.
The baking temperature is very long (1 1/2 hrs)
and very low (275 F or 135 C)
EMULSIFYING AGENTS
Eggs are used to form stable emulsions, mayonnaise for example
Oil and Vinegar separate out unless the oil droplets are coated with
the substance that keeps them from running together. Egg yolk is
often effective in accomplishing this. Eggs are used as emulsifiers
(Lechithin) in ice cream, cakes and cream puffs.
INTERFERING SUBSTANCES
Beaten egg whites will act as an interfering substance inmixtures to
be frozen, such as "sherbet " . Tiny bubbles of air trapped in air
prevent ice crystals from coming together and creating large
masses of icy material. Egg whites and at times, egg yolk perform a
similar service in the making of candy, an egg white added to
certain candies interferes with the formation of large sugar
crystals .
CLARIFYING AGENTS
Raw eggs may be added to hot broths and coffee. When the
proteins in the egg coagulate, they trap the loose particles in the
liquid and clarify it. Custard, Puddings and Pie Fillings: custard may
be cooked over hot water and stirred as it is cooked (soft custard)
or may be cooked without stirring (baked custard). The coagulation
of soft custard takes place at about 160 F (70 C) . If in making a soft
custard the mixture is held at the coagulation point for too long or if
the temperature exceeds this level the protein is over-cooked, the
mixture thickens unevenly and the finished product will be
curdled .A baked custard is cooked without stirring in an oven at
350 F(176 C).

How to separate eggs?

The best way to separate the white and yolk is by using the egg
shell. Avoid breaking the egg in to one hand and allow the white to
run through the finger. The white can absorb grease and odours
which will inhibit its beating qualities.
• Have two bowls ready. Crack the egg as close its centre as
possible by hitting the shell firmly against the edge of a bowl or the
sharp edge of a counter. Using your thumbs, pull shells apart ,
allowing some of the white to fall into
the bowl.
• Pour yolk from the shell to shell , allowing white to dribble into the
bowl. Use one side of the shell to detach remaining white from the
yolk .Use a shell half to remove .Any bits of yolk which might slip
into the bowl.
• Place yolk gently into the second bowl.

Whisking egg white.

Whisking egg whites are the basis of making meringues and are
used to lighten the soufflés and mousses.
• Utensils should be large enough to allow for full increase in
volume of foam. However it should not be to large that the beater
has no contact with egg whites.
• A rotary beater or wire whip should be used. Thinner the blade or
finer the whip, the smaller are the air cells and finer is the foam.
• Egg white whips rapidly at room temperature.
• The whites must be free from any traces of yolks, oil from hands
or bowl and even water.
• Use a copper or stainless steel bowl as glass and ceramic bowl
seems to repel the whites and separate them.
• Rinse the bowl with vinegar or lemon juice to remove any
impurities.
• Salt and cream of tartar are used in egg white .Salt is used for
flavour .Lemon juice or cream of tartar makes foam more stable.
• Sugar stabilizes the foam and prevents them from becoming
grainy, but must be added after the whites are stiff.
• Addition of water up to 40% of the volume of egg increases
volume of foam. It is incorporated towards the end of beating.
Whisking egg yolk
Egg yolks are often whisked separately with or without sugar, some
times over the heat. The whisking increases the volume and
lightens sauces as Hollandaise or adds air for cakes and batter.
Folding egg whites
It is a method of combining a light mixture and a heavier one
without deflating the lighter one. To lighten the heavier or base
mixture, add about a quarter of the beaten whites and stir them in
thoroughly through cut and fold method. Then spoon in the
remaining whites and gently folds in by using a rubber spatula.

METHODS OF COOKING EGGS

Boiling and shelling hard and medium boiled egg
( OeufsBouillis)
To make boiled egg there are only two things to be kept in mind---
one is the cooking time , which will be determined by the
consistency of the white and yolk.The second is the water
temperature.Egg should be plunged into the simmering liquid ,
reboil and simmer for required time.Commence timing once water
has reboiled.

The stages of boiling are :

• Soft Boiled (in shell) : Oeuf a la Coque – boiling time 3 to 4
minutes.
• Soft Boiled (without shell) : Oeuf Mollet – boiling time 5 minutes.
• Hard Boiled : Oeuf Dur – boiling time 8 to 10 minutes served with
or without shell.

Key points
• Occasional difficulty encountered when peeling the egg , which is
because of PH of egg white and so by the egg’s freshness. If the PH
is below 8.9 – in a fresh egg it is closer to 8.0- then the inner
membrane tends to adhere to the albumen, whereas when the PH
is 9.2 after three days of refrigeration, the problem no longer exists.
• The other odd things about the hardboiled egg are the occasional
appearance of a greenish-gray discoloration on the surface of
the yolk. The colour is caused by a harmless compound of iron and
sulphur called ferrous sulphide, which is formed only when its
heated.
• For shelling, crack the egg around its centre, as for separation of
egg. Gently roll egg on a work surface until the egg shell is cracked
all around the centre. Remove the shells away from the white.
• Store peeled egg in salted water.

SCRAMBLED EGGS (Ouefs Broilles)

In France, good s crambled eggs are considered an art; gently

stirred over low heat to a thick creamy puree which is elegantly
garnished with truffles, smoked salmon or chopped chieves. These
are prepared by thoroughly mixing the eggs, seasoning with salt
and pepper , adding tem to a little butter melted in a thick
bottomed pan, then cooking slowly stirring with a wooden spoon
until set. They may be finished with butter or cream. To hold
scrambled eggs on a buffet add one table spoon of water,
milk or cream to one egg( one cup 16 eggs).They are then cooked
to a soft stage and then hold between 54 and 60 C ( 130- 140 F). 54
C (130 f) is the lowest temperature one can use without
encouraging bacteria growth. Slightly over heating will cause the
liquid to squeeze out and forms a separate puddle. It can be
recognized when the liquid collects around the edge of; for example
custard or a mould of gelatine products and is termed as
SYNERESIS (weeping).

POACHED EGGS (Oeufs Poches)

To poach eggs, fill a deep pan with about two and a half inches of
water. Add one tablespoon of salt and one tablespoon of vinegar
per gallon of water. The vinegar, an acid, helps to set the egg white
and prevents it from spreading. Acid also makes the eggs more
tender, whites whiter. Poached egg must be fresh or it will spread
even though vinegar is used. Both salt and vinegar help to
coagulate the egg as soon as it enters the poaching liquid so that it
retains a better shape.

Poaching egg in Bain-Marie ( Oeufs Moules )

A cooking vessel with lid is half filled with water to form a bain-
marie. Bring the water to boiling point. Prepare the egg moulds with
seasonings and knob of butter to flavour and to prevent eggs from
sticking to moulds. Break egg in individual moulds and place in the
bain-marie with the lid on for a gentle cooking. Cook for 3-5
minutes so that white sets and the yolk remain soft. Turn out and
serve hot.

CODDLED EGGS
Eggs are coddled in the shell. They are cooked by pouring boiling
water over the edges , one pint of boiling water over an egg. The
eggs are then covered and held in a warm place until cooked (six to
ten minutes) for firm yokes and pleasantly soft whites.

EN COCOTTE (Oeufs en Cocotte) : Similar to poaching except

that eggs are poached in porcelain dishes(cocotte). The dishes are
buttered, the eggs placed in them and both placed in bain marie for
about 2 to 3 min..This dish is served for lunch or dinner and is
presented in and eaten from cocotte dish in which it is cooked.

BAKED EGG (Oeufs Frits):

Indicates eggs gently cooked with oil/bacon fat/lard in a shallow
frying vessel until white is firm while yolk remains soft. Fried eggs
are often served with crispy fried bacon or sausages. The fried egg
is the centrepiece of the great British breakfast, surrounded by
bacon, sausage, tomatoes, mushrooms, baked beans, black
pudding and toasted bread. The ideal temperature range for fried
egg is 255 0c to 2800f. Eggs done or cooked only on one side is
known as SUNNY SIDE UP. For EASY OVER use a palate knife to flip
each egg carefully.

OMELETTES(Les Omelette0:Making omelets is avery simple

operation but to achieve a great success a high degree of skill is
required. Usually 2-3 eggs are used per portion with proper
garnishes or flavourings, which may be added in the following
ways:
• Combined with egg before cooking.
• Placed into centre of omelette before it is folded.
• Placed on top of the omelette, in a cavity after folding is
complete.

Types of Omelets
1. Plain Omelette: is prepared plain only with seasonings.
2. Flat Omelette: Add garnish to egg before making the omelette,
turn out without folding, coloured side upper most. Spanish
TORTILLAS and Italian FRITTATAS are examples of this open
faced pancake style omelette.
3. Stuffed and folded Omelette: Place fillings in the centre of
omelette before folding.
4. Folded and stuffed: Slit the turned out omelette along the
centre of top surface,place in the fillings.
5. Folded Omelette: Add garnish to egg before cooking and then
folded after making it.

KEY POINTS
• A well-seasoned heavy bottom iron or a steel pan is required. For
seasoning pan to get a non-stick effect, add plenty of salt and
heating it over a moderate heat. Remove salt and wipe it with a dry
cloth. Pour oil into the pan and heat steadily over a period until the
pan is smooth. Remove excess of oil and use for making omelets.

• Never wash the pan, always wipe it with dry kitchen cloth. Apply a
flim of oil and store.
• The texture of the omelette should be soft,with a firm exterior and
a moist centre.This is termed as BAVEUSE.Omelets are generally
cooked to order. Making an Omelettes are similar to scrambled
eggs except that they form a solid sheet or coagulated eggs, which
are moulded and often filled with herbs, jams, mushrooms, ham,
cheese and many other ingredients. French omelettes with sweet
filling may be dusted with icing sugar and burnt lightly with a hot
metal rod. Marks are left similar to grid marks on broiled steak.
When new, omelette pans, like new pans and griddles, are
seasoned in the manner described for pans , then never washed
again ( see fried eggs ) . Beating the yolks and the whites
separately to stiff foam makes a puffy or soufflé omelette. It is
started as a regular, but finished in the oven at 163 C (325 F).
SOUFFLES: Soufflés are similar to puffy or foamy omelettes except
that they have been thickened with flour, butter and milk . The
proportion of an egg is lower than in an omelette. To make a soufflé
the eggs are separated and added to the white sauce or starch
thickened mixture. The whites are beaten to soft foam before being
folded into the rest of the materials. Soufflés are baked at 149 C
(300 F) and they should be
Served soon after they are cooked.

CUSTARDS: True custards contain only milk, eggs, sugar and

flavouring. No starch agent is added. Baked custards must contain
enough eggs to produce a firm mass. Custards should be cooked in
a container of water to prevent overheating. For firm
custard heat the milk to about 66 C (150 F) then add this to the
mixture of sugar, eggs, and flavouring. An oven temperature of
about 177 C (350 F) is used for baking custards, but if the
temperature of the custard itself exceeds 85 C (185 F) the custard
is likely to contain holes, be watery and have a concave top. Once
custard is cooked it should be placed in a cool spot for setting in a
pan of cold water. At a very high temperature synergetic occurs this
is a separation of liquid from the gel, caused by contraction of the
proteins.

PUDDINGS AND CREAMS: A thickened mixture of corn flour, milk,

sugar and flavouring is called a blancmange or corn flour pudding.
If eggs are added to this mixture, the pudding is called a cream
pudding. Bavarian Creams (Bavarois):Are corn flour or cream
puddings made by light gelatine, whipped cream, beaten eggs and
other ingredients for Bavarian creams.1/4 tspn cream of tartar is
added for each 5 egg whites. Zabaglione or Sabayon: is a dessert of
Italian origin made with egg yolks, sugar and wine
(Marsala).Quiches: are custards baked in a pastry case. It contains
eggs, milk, cheese, bacon, and onions.
OTHER EGG ITEMS:
Crepes are thin pancakes made from flour, sugar, milk and eggs. No
baking powder is added to them as in American style pancakes.
Crepes are popular as desserts or as entrees. After mixing the
pancake batter, it must be allowed to rest in the refrigerator for half
an hour. Fondues contain eggs especially that of Geneva, which is
made up of egg yolks and cheese. Some fondues are baked
custards containing parts of bread, loosely resembling a soufflé.
Cheese fondues probably originated in Switzerland. Swiss cheese is
melted in white wine. The wooden or earthenware bowl in which it
is served is rubbed with garlic and kirsch or cherry brandy just
before the fondue is served. It is then picked up on chunks of bread
for eating. Dry white wine is an accompaniment. Eggs are also basic
to many baked desserts, including all those using sweet dough, puff
paste, sponge or genoise. They are also used in mousses. Angel
Food Cake: is beaten egg whites, sugar and cake flour. Pastry
Cream (Crème Patisserie) is nothing but egg yolks, milk, sugar,
flour and corn flour.

IMITATION EGGS: Concern over the high cholesterol of eggs

(275mg of cholesterol/egg yolk) has increased the popularity of
imitation eggs made from milk solids or Soya proteins. There are
two types of egg substitutes in the market. The first is a complete
egg substitute made from soymilk or milk proteins, this is gradually
being replaced by the second type. The second type is a partial egg
substitute, in which only the yolks have been replaced, the egg
whites remain. Egg substitutes have about half the fat and calories
of natural eggs. There is a distinct flavour difference between
imitation eggs and real eggs, which may be masked if they are
incorporated into multi-ingredient cooked dishes. Dried egg : 99%
water is removed by evaporation.