Silk Weaving - Kanchipuram

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Digital Learning Environment for Design - www.dsource.in
Design Resource
Silk Weaving - Kanchipuram
Art of Indian Silk Weaving
by
Prof. Bibhudutta Baral with Mr. Antony William,
Mr. Mahesh, and Mr. Srikanth
NID, Bengaluru
Source:
http://www.dsource.in/resource/silk-weaving-kan-
chipuram
1. Introduction
2. Tools and Materials
3. Dyeing Process
4. Traditional Spinning Process
5. Warping Process
6. Weaving Process
7. Products and Motifs
8. Contact Details
D’source 2
Design Resource Introduction

Introduction:
by
Kanchipuram silk saris are exclusively known for rich gold borders and dense brocades in contrast colors. More
Prof. Bibhudutta Baral with Mr. Antony William, than 150 years of traditional weaving of Kanchipuram is purely hand woven from the processed silk yarn and
Mr. Mahesh, and Mr. Srikanth Zari– the silk thread made of silver and gold. Kanchipuram specialized in ‘Murukku pattu’, a heavy silk sari which
NID, Bengaluru is woven with twisted three-ply silk yarn and Zari on fly-shuttle pit looms. The contrast borders are achieved by
Korvai technique. There are more than 45,000 expertise weavers in Kanchipuram. Weavers are from Padma Sali-
yar and the Pattu Saliyar community. Almost all local families are engaged in different production processes such
as silk weaving, warping, spinning, twisting and dyeing.
Source: Place:
http://www.dsource.in/resource/silk-weaving-kan- Kanchipuram is also known as Kanchi is located 72 Km away from Chennai in Tamilnadu. The place is also known
chipuram/introduction as “City of 1000 temples” as the city has more than 1000 temples. The Kanchipuram silk saris have become very
popular all over the world. Silk weaves of Kanchipuram has ancient history for its rich weaving and the tradition.
The city is the major centre for producing silk saris with 5000 weaving families.
1. Introduction The silk weaving is also done in some other parts of Tamil Nadu such as Rasipuram, Mannarkudi, Kumbakonam,
2. Tools and Materials Thirubuvanam and Arni. All these areas follow the weaving techniques of the Kanchipuram but they are lighter in
3. Dyeing Process weight when compared to Kanchi saris.
5. Warping Process
6. Weaving Process
8. Contact Details
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Design Resource
by
NID, Bengaluru
Source:
chipuram/introduction
Intense2 care taken while dyeing the raw silk yarn.
1. Introduction
3. Dyeing Process
5. Warping Process
6. Weaving Process
8. Contact Details
In Kanchipuram, Street warping practiced in the early Weaver displaying the final product.
morning.
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Design Resource
by
NID, Bengaluru
Source:
Traditional tools are still used in spinning process. Nearly three to five artisans practice warping process.
1. Introduction
3. Dyeing Process
5. Warping Process
6. Weaving Process
8. Contact Details
Zari-golden thread loaded in warp for borders. Senior artisan carefully checking the warp.
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Design Resource
by
NID, Bengaluru
Source:
Traditional and simpleloom from Kanchipuram, it is Gold colored sari highly embellished with leaf motifs.
operated by aged artisans.
1. Introduction
3. Dyeing Process
5. Warping Process
6. Weaving Process
8. Contact Details
Colored yarn dried at room temperature. Artisan’sfamily with silk saree.

D’source 6
Design Resource
by
NID, Bengaluru
Source:
1. Introduction
3. Dyeing Process
4. Traditional Spinning Process Skilled artisan engaged in sari weaving.
5. Warping Process
6. Weaving Process
8. Contact Details
D’source 7
Design Resource Tools and Raw Materials

Different types of tools and raw materials used are:
by
Prof. Bibhudutta Baral with Mr. Antony William, Mulberry Silk:
Mr. Mahesh, and Mr. Srikanth The basic raw material used for the production of saris is silk. Finely processed silk is purchased from Karnataka.
NID, Bengaluru The tough silk which comes from Karnataka grants luster and smooth finish to the Kanchi sari.
Zari:
Golden thread is imported from Surat. Pure silver and gold is used to make Zari thread. Recently, the artisans of
Kanchipuram started zari unit to produce zari thread locally. This thread is especially used for borders and pallu
Source: of sari.
chipuram/tools-and-materials Dye Color:
Different colors of dye color powders purchased from local markets. The color powder is mixed in boiling water
while dyeing the silk yarn.
1. Introduction Copper Containers:
2. Tools and Materials Huge copper containers are used in dyeing process. These containers are used to dye the boiling solution.
3. Dyeing Process
Rice Starch:
4. Traditional Spinning Process Starch is extracted by boiling rice. The extracted solution is locally called as Kanji. Yarn is dipped in the kanji to
5. Warping Process obtain stiffness.
6. Weaving Process
7. Products and Motifs Spinning Wheel:
This is a hand cranking spinning wheel which is locally called as ‘Mara Ratinam’. It is used to spin the silk yarn to
8. Contact Details spools and spindles. These spindles are used in weaving process for weft weaving.
Fly-shuttle:
It is mainly used to process the weft. The spools are inserted in fly-shuttle while weaving. These shuttles are
made of whole bamboo pole.
Warp Beam:
The length of yarn is wound on warp beam which is later loaded into the loom.
D’source 8
Design Resource Jacquard Machine:

Silk Weaving - Kanchipuram The improvised equipments such as jala and jacquard are used to produce the designs for borders and Pallu.
Warping machine:
by This is used to draw the length of the yarn from the spools.
Mr. Mahesh, and Mr. Srikanth Handloom:
NID, Bengaluru Looms of Kanchipuram ranging from traditional to modern. Traditional looms can be operated manually. Modern
looms are upgraded with motor pedals.
Punch Cards:
The design is punched on the punch cards. The cards are loaded into jacquard machine.
Source:
chipuram/tools-and-materials
1. Introduction
3. Dyeing Process
5. Warping Process
6. Weaving Process
8. Contact Details
Colored Silk. Warping machine used to prepare warp beam.

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Design Resource
by
NID, Bengaluru
Source:
Traditional method of dyeing. Dye color powders are measured with weighing ma-
chine.
1. Introduction
3. Dyeing Process
5. Warping Process
6. Weaving Process
8. Contact Details
Kanji-Rice starch. Handloom.

D’source 10
Design Resource
by
NID, Bengaluru
Source:
Punch cards are loaded into Jacquard for getting design Design reference used while making punch cards.
in the sari.
1. Introduction
3. Dyeing Process
5. Warping Process
6. Weaving Process
8. Contact Details
Floral design reference. Parivattam - Bamboo spool used to wind the yarn to
form silk bundles.
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Design Resource
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NID, Bengaluru
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Spindle –Kulal is inserted into Fly-shuttle- Neelalocally. Synthetic threads to connect jacquard and warp
threads.
1. Introduction
3. Dyeing Process
5. Warping Process
6. Weaving Process
8. Contact Details
Motorized pedal to operate handloom. Warp beam loaded to the other end of loom.
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Design Resource
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NID, Bengaluru
Source:
The warp is measured with tape and knotted with cot- Cotton cloth used to wipe the excess gum.
ton thread.
1. Introduction
3. Dyeing Process
5. Warping Process
6. Weaving Process
8. Contact Details
D’source 13
Design Resource Dyeing Process

The length of raw silk is first divided in to 3 segments using rubber tube to make 3-saris. Hence these silk seg-
by
ments are colored separately as per the requirements. The border and pallu of a silk saree are dyed in single color.
Prof. Bibhudutta Baral with Mr. Antony William, But the body of the sari is dyed in contrast color of border and pallu.
NID, Bengaluru To start dyeing process, water is boiled in a huge copper container. Once water is boiled at high temperature, the
dye materials–washing soda, soap oil, dye color are added to the boiling water. The off-white silk yarn is dipped
into the colored boiling solution. After dyeing, the colored yarn is immersed normal water to remove excess
color. The yarn is taken out from the container and it is allowed to dry for 2 to 3 days. Red, green, blue and mus-
tard are the popular colors used in dyeing process.
Source:
chipuram/dyeing-process
1. Introduction
3. Dyeing Process
5. Warping Process
6. Weaving Process
8. Contact Details
Cotton cloth used to wipe the excess gum. Cotton cloth used to wipe the excess gum.
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Design Resource
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NID, Bengaluru
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Raw silk is dipped in the color solution. Silk is partially colored.
1. Introduction
3. Dyeing Process
5. Warping Process
6. Weaving Process
8. Contact Details
The yarn is hanged between two iron rods to A Artisan ensuring the uniformity of color. rtificial flow-
rotate continuously while coloring. ers are added to the garland.
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Design Resource
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NID, Bengaluru
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The dyed color is washed in normal water. Excess water is removed by squeezing.
1. Introduction
3. Dyeing Process
5. Warping Process
6. Weaving Process
8. Contact Details
D’source 16
Design Resource Traditional Spinning Process

The colored silk is brought for spinning process. The yarn bundle is first spun onto a traditional bamboo spool lo-
by
cally called as Parivattam. Then, the yarn from these spools is again spun onto spindles with the help of spinning
Prof. Bibhudutta Baral with Mr. Antony William, wheel. Silk strand is reeled to spindle and the spinning wheel is operated. The yarn from bamboo spool is trans-
Mr. Mahesh, and Mr. Srikanth ferred into spindles. These spindles are used to insert into fly-shuttle which is used while weaving to weave the
NID, Bengaluru weft. The spinning process is done to avoid entangles in the yarn and to ensure the easy weaving.
Source:
chipuram/traditional-spinning-process
1. Introduction
3. Dyeing Process
5. Warping Process
6. Weaving Process
Colored yarn is ready for spinning process. Silk bundle is reeled onto traditional bamboo spool.
8. Contact Details
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Design Resource
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NID, Bengaluru
Source:
chipuram/traditional-spinning-process
Entangles and breaks are cleared in spinning process. Silk is again spun to make spindles.
1. Introduction
3. Dyeing Process
5. Warping Process
6. Weaving Process
8. Contact Details
D’source 18
Design Resource Warping Process

The length of silk yarn after dyeing is brought simultaneously winding process. The warping is carried out in
by
streets preferably in the early morning, so that the color of the silk yarn would not be sun-bleached. The length
Prof. Bibhudutta Baral with Mr. Antony William, of the yarn is tied between the two poles and the warp is stretched. Entangles in the yarn are checked and then
Mr. Mahesh, and Mr. Srikanth knotted. A cotton thread is laced into the warp as it helps to trace the entangled silk threads. Once the warping
NID, Bengaluru is completed, the yarn is dipped in rice starch solution-Kanjito obtain more shine and luster. The yarn is loaded
to warping machine to prepare warp beam. This is loaded into loom to start weaving process. The length of the
warp 18 meters which can make three saris of 6 meters each. Nearly 3 to 5 artisans required to complete warping
process. Count of warp threads ranges 5000 to 6000. Each thread of warp is 2 ply and weft is 4 ply.
Source:
chipuram/warping-process
1. Introduction
3. Dyeing Process
5. Warping Process
6. Weaving Process
8. Contact Details
Initial stage of warping is in process. Cotton thread is inserted into warp threads as it helps
to find the damaged silk threads.
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Design Resource
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NID, Bengaluru
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Artisan making space to insert bamboo stick. Thin bamboo stick is being inserted into warp threads.
1. Introduction
3. Dyeing Process
5. Warping Process
6. Weaving Process
8. Contact Details
Warp is stretched over bamboo stick to inspect After warping, the silk is dipped in rice starch.
breaks in the silk threads.
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Design Resource
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NID, Bengaluru
Source:
Excess starch is squeezed. Starched yarn is again dried.
1. Introduction
3. Dyeing Process
5. Warping Process
6. Weaving Process
8. Contact Details
Warp is being fixed to warping machine. Reed is inserted into warp threads to make them even.
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Design Resource
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NID, Bengaluru
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Artisan checking the tautness between the The ends are connected to iron rod to make warp beam.
stretched warp.
1. Introduction
3. Dyeing Process
5. Warping Process
6. Weaving Process
8. Contact Details
Warp is being reeled to warp beam. Over view of warp making and environment.
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Design Resource
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NID, Bengaluru
Source:
1. Introduction
3. Dyeing Process
5. Warping Process
6. Weaving Process
Warp beam is ready for weaving.
8. Contact Details
D’source 23
Design Resource Weaving Process

There are few pre preparations to be done before weaving process. The processes are warp loading, punch card
by
loading and weaving.
Mr. Mahesh, and Mr. Srikanth Warp Loading:
NID, Bengaluru The loom setting activity is done before weaving process. The yarn after warping is prepared into warp sheets by
rolling the length of yarn to an iron rod. The process of transferring the warp sheet into weavers beam is called
beaming. In this process the strands of yarn passes through the reeds and healds. This is done by joining each
silk strand to the old warp threads manually. It takes nearly 2-3 days to complete the joining process. Generally
women folk perform the joining process.
Source:
http://www.dsource.in/resource/silk-weaving-kan- Punch Card Making and Loading:
chipuram/weaving-process Technology is also a part in the production of silk saris. The automated design process has replaced the tradition-
al design process. The image of the motif is first scanned and then it is traced and filled with bitmaps. Finally the
image is transferred to the punch cards. Now the punch cards are attached in the form of a chain and loaded into
the jacquard machine to start weaving. This automated process is simple and time saving.
1. Introduction
2. Tools and Materials Weaving in Handlooms:
3. Dyeing Process Weaving is done on the fly shuttle pit looms. The weaver interlaces the silk threads of weft and warp. The shut-
4. Traditional Spinning Process tle passes through the opens formed when the pedal is operated to interlock the threads of warp and the weft.
Once the shuttle is passed, the suspended rope from jacquard is pulled to form the weave. The proton of woven
5. Warping Process cloth is wounded to the wooden beam which is in front of the weaver. After weaving of 6 meters of weft, the por-
6. Weaving Process tion of unwoven warp is intentionally left before and after the sari weaving which is later knotted for fringe. Thus
7. Products and Motifs the weaving is completed; the unwoven stands are cut out with a small metal blade and sari is folded in tradition-
al manner for the marketing.
8. Contact Details
It takes nearly 4 to 5 days to complete one sari. The length of 10 saris warp is loaded into the loom at a time. The
weaver may need 1 or 2 persons help while working.
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Design Resource
by
NID, Bengaluru
Source:
chipuram/weaving-process
Each thread from warp beam is being attached In Kanchipuram, Count of warp threads ranges from
to the loom silk threads. 5000 to 6000.
1. Introduction
3. Dyeing Process
5. Warping Process
6. Weaving Process
8. Contact Details
Spindle is being inserted into fly-shuttle. The thread of fly-shuttle is connected to warp threads.
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Design Resource
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NID, Bengaluru
Source:
Shuttle passes through the opening of warp shed. The shuttle is collected from other end.
1. Introduction
3. Dyeing Process
5. Warping Process
6. Weaving Process
8. Contact Details
Pulley helps to lift the warp threads. Weaver inspecting warp to ensure smooth weaving.
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Design Resource
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NID, Bengaluru
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Small beads are inserted to connect warp threads A wooden stick fixed to the woven part of sari for better
and jacquard threads. support.
1. Introduction
3. Dyeing Process
5. Warping Process
6. Weaving Process
8. Contact Details
Women weaving sari which has contrast border. Continuous pedal movement to operate handloom.
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Design Resource
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NID, Bengaluru
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External Zari thread is inserted to create motif designs. Gum is applied on the sari for stiffness.
1. Introduction
3. Dyeing Process
5. Warping Process
6. Weaving Process
8. Contact Details
Excess gum is removed. Woven sari which is rolled on weavers beam is cut and
removed.
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Design Resource
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NID, Bengaluru
Source:
Sari is traditionally folded by skilled artisan. Artisans engaged in sari folding.
1. Introduction
3. Dyeing Process
5. Warping Process
6. Weaving Process
8. Contact Details
Systematically folded sari ready for marketing.

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Design Resource Products and Motifs

Traditionally woven Kanchipuram saris are very heavy and soft with fine counts of silk. The weight of sari ranges
by
from 750 grams to 1000 grams due to their rich counts. The gorgeous wide borders in contrast colors are very
Prof. Bibhudutta Baral with Mr. Antony William, fascinating. Intricate border and pallu designs are so aesthetically embellished with beautiful motifs. Finer quali-
Mr. Mahesh, and Mr. Srikanth ty of Zari and silk is durable and enhances the life, richness and luster of sari.
NID, Bengaluru
The most popular motifs used in Kanchi saris are inspired by temples of Kanchipuram and around environment.
Other motif patterns include flowers, natural leaves, fruits,
Mayilkan- the peacock’s eye,
Rudraksham- Rudraksha beads, Swans, Parrot.
Source: Mallinaggu – the jasmine motif scattered all over the body of sari.
http://www.dsource.in/resource/silk-weaving-kan- The Ganga-Jamuni refers to two different colored borders in one sari. Checks and stripes are also included in the
chipuram/products-and-motifs motifs.
Traditional products include saris and Pattu langas- skirts for teenage girls. The twisted three-ply threads and
the extra Zari warp and weft patterning is used to create the final product. The contrast borders and pallus are
1. Introduction achieved by Petni and Korvai technique.
3. Dyeing Process
5. Warping Process
6. Weaving Process
8. Contact Details
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Design Resource
by
NID, Bengaluru
Source:
chipuram/products-and-motifs
Traditional bright colored saris are ideal wear for Combination of silk and Zari threads to create unique
wedding occasions. design pattern.
1. Introduction
3. Dyeing Process
5. Warping Process
6. Weaving Process
8. Contact Details
Brocade silk sari in combination of floral and Kanchi weaves also include dual shades in the sari as per
geometrical forms. market need.
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Design Resource Contact Details

This documention was done by Mr. Antony William, Mr. Mahesh, Mr. Srikanth,
by
NID R&D Campus, Bengaluru.
Mr. Mahesh, and Mr. Srikanth You could write to the following address regarding suggestions and clarifications:
NID, Bengaluru
Helpdesk Details:
Co-ordinator
Project e-kalpa
R & D Campus
Source: National Institute of Design
http://www.dsource.in/resource/silk-weaving-kan- #12 HMT Link Road, Off Tumkur Road
chipuram/contact-details Bengaluru 560 022
India
Phone:
+91 80 2357 9054
1. Introduction Fax:
2. Tools and Materials +91 80 23373086
3. Dyeing Process Email: dsource.in[at]gmail.com.
5. Warping Process
6. Weaving Process
8. Contact Details

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D’source 1

Digital Learning Environment for Design - www.dsource.in

Design Resource Introduction

Colored yarn dried at room temperature. Artisan’sfamily with silk saree.

Design Resource Tools and Raw Materials

Design Resource Jacquard Machine:

Colored Silk. Warping machine used to prepare warp beam.

Kanji-Rice starch. Handloom.

Design Resource Dyeing Process

Design Resource Traditional Spinning Process

Design Resource Warping Process

Design Resource Weaving Process

Systematically folded sari ready for marketing.

Design Resource Products and Motifs

Design Resource Contact Details

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