Antagonist and Stabilizer Training Exercises Core Training Exercise

Wrist & Forearm Stabillizers REPS SETS Anterior Core REPS

Band Finger Extension 15 - 25 1-2 Feet-Up Crunches 25 - 100
Reverse Wrist Curls 15 - 25 2-3 Hanging Knee Lifts 15 - 20
Pronators 20 - 25 2 Mountain Climber Plank 20 - 50
Reverse Arm Curl 15 - 20 1-2 1-Arm Elbow & Side Plank 10 - 25
Wrist Extension Isometric 45 - 90 sec. 2 TRX “Marine Core” 5 - 12
Wide Pinch w/ Wrist Ext. 10 - 20 sec. 3-5 Windshield Wipers 6 - 12
Rotator Cuff & Scap Stabilizers REPS SETS Posterior Core REPS
DB Internal Rotation 20 - 25 2 Superman 20 - 25
DB External Rotation 20 - 25 2 Reverse Plank 20 - 60 sec.
Sling Trainer “Ts” 10 - 20 2 Reverse Mtn. Climber Plank 8 - 15
Sling Trainer “Ys” 10 - 20 2 Side Hip Raises 10 - 20
Shrugs 20 - 25 2 Total/Posterior Chain REPS
Scapular Push-Up 15 - 20 2 Sumo Deadlift 10 - 15
Scapular Pull-Up 6 - 12 2 Dumbbell Snatch 5-8
Antagonist (Push) Muscles REPS SETS Barbell Deadlift 3-6
Shoulder Press 15 - 20 1-2 Barbell Squat 5-8
Bench Press/Push-Up 15 - 25 1-2 Climbing-Specific Core REPS
Tricep Pushdown 8 - 12 2 Steep Wall Traversing 60 - 120 sec.
Sling Trainer Pec Flys 8 - 12 2 Steep Wall Cut & Catch 1 ascent
Dips 8 - 20 2-3 Roof Lever-Ups   3-8
Front Lever 2-5

For a detailed description of every exercise listed above, see Eric Hörst's Training for Climb

Entry-level exercises shown in GREEN -- appropriate for all climbers.

Intermediate-level exercises shown in GOLD -- appropriate for experienced & advanced climbers.
Advanced-level exercises shown in PINK -- appropriate only for advanced/elite climbers.

Copyright 2016 Eric J. Hörst www.Training4Climbing.com

DISCLAIMER & TERMS OF USE

 Eric Hörst's Training for Climbing Program -- www
ercise Limit-Strength Exercises
SETS Finger Flexors REPS SETS
2 Limit Bouldering 1 - 4 tries/prob 3 -7 problems
1-3 Wide Pinch w/ Wrist Extension 10 - 20 sec. 5-Feb
1-2 Hypergravity Bouldering 1 - 3 reps/prob 2 - 7 problems
1-2 “Minimum Edge” Hangs 5 hangs/set 2-5
2-3 Max-Weight Hangs “10-Second” 5 hangs/set 2-5
2-3 Max-Weight Hangs “7-53” Protocol 3 hangs/set 2-5
SETS HIT System—Max-Strength Protocol 8 - 15 6 - 12
2 Heavy Finger Rolls 3-8 3-5
2-3 Pinch Ball Hangs 3 hangs/set 2-5
1-2 Arms & Torso REPS SETS
2 Weighted Pull-Ups 4-8 3-6
SETS Lat Pulldown 4-8 3-6
2 System Wall “Isolation” 6 - 12 2-5
2-3 Square Pull-Ups 3-6 1-2
2-4 Typewriters 3-6 1-2
1-2 Scapular Pull-Ups 6 - 12 2-3
SETS Uneven-Grip Pull-Ups 3-5 2-3
2-4 Steep Wall “Lock-Offs” (aka Touches) 6 - 12 2-5
3 - 5 ascents One-Arm Lock-Offs 2-3 2-3
2-3 One-Arm Pull-ups 1-5 2-5
2-3

Training for Climbing (3rd edition) or The Rock Climber's Exercise Guide (2017). Learn more at: ww
ng Program -- www.Training4Climbing.com (Copyright 2016 - All Rights Reserved)
Power-Training Exercises
Finger Flexors REPS SETS
One-Arm Traversing 6 - 12 moves 2-3
One-Arm Lunging 6 - 12 moves 2-3
Campus Board (CB) “Bumps” 2 - 4 sets each side
CB Laddering (no skips, smallish rungs) up only 3 - 10
CB “Switch Hands” 6 - 12 moves 2-5
CB Double Dynos (smallish rungs) 6 - 12 moves 2-5
HIT System Pinch Hold Double Dynos 3 - 6 moves 2-3
Arms & Torso REPS SETS
Big-Move Boulder Problems 4 - 8 moves 3-8
Power Pull-Up (Chest-Bump) 5 - 12 1-3
Gym Rope Climbing sprint to top 3-8
CB “Laddering” (larger rungs w/ skips) 3 - 6 moves 3 - 10
Clap Pull-Ups 3-6 2-3
Boulder Campusing (Monkey Biz) 3 - 8 moves 3 - 10
CB Double Dynos (Large Rungs 5 - 9 moves 1-5

RPE (Rating of Preceived Exertion) is a 1 to 10 scale of exer

See Training For Climbing (page 117) or The Rock Climber's Exercise Guide (p

(2017). Learn more at: www.Training4Climbing.com

right 2016 - All Rights Reserved)

Strength/Power-Endurance Training Exercises

Finger Flexors REPS SETS
Short-Duration Fingerboard Repeaters 6 - 12 3-5
Bouldering 4x4s 4 4
Long-Duration Fingerboard Repeaters 4 3-5
HIT System—S/P-Endurance Protocol 30 - 90 sec. 6 - 12
System Wall Repeaters 30 - 60 sec. 4 - 12
Small-Rung Ladder Laps (No Skips) 30 - 60 sec. 2-5
Arms & Torso REPS SETS
Pull-Up Intervals ~5 10 - 20
Big-Holds, Big-Move 4x4s 4 4
Route Intervals 3 - 4 routes 1-3
Power Pull-Up Intervals (Chest-Bump) 3-5 5 - 10
Frenchies 2 - 6 cycles 2-4
Square Dance 45 - 90 sec. 2-4
Campus Ladder Laps on Big Holds 30 - 60 sec. 2-5
Gym Rope Interval sprint to top 3 - 10

RPE (Rating of Preceived Exertion) is a 1 to 10 scale of exercise/climbing intensity and subjective exertion.
Climbing (page 117) or The Rock Climber's Exercise Guide (page 182) for a detailed coverage of "training zones" for climbers.
 Local and Generalized Aerobic Training Exercises
Local/Climbing-Specific Aerobic Endurance REPS SETS
ARC Traversing - Recovery Climbing (RPE: 4 to 6) 15 - 30 min. 1
Submaximal Route Intervals (RPE: 6 to 8) 2-4 min/route 10 - 20
Climb All Day many routes
Fingerboard Moving Hangs 5 - 10 min. 1-3
Campus Board or System Wall “Hand Play” 3 - 5 min. 3-6
Threshold Intervals (RPE: 7 to 8.5 out of 10) 3 - 5 min. 3-8
Generalized Aerobic Training REPS SETS
Steady State Aerobic Training (RPE: 6 to 8) 15 - 30 min.
Interval Training (RPE: 8 to 9) 30 - 60 each 6 - 10
High-Volume Generalized Aerobic Training (big wall and
alpine climbers only) 45 - 120 min.

sity and subjective exertion.

ed coverage of "training zones" for climbers.
 MESOCYCLES

Mesocycle 1 - "3-2-1 Periodization" (6 weeks)

Use: Excellent off-season or between-trip cycle for "gain training". Ideal for boulderers and sport

DURATION
Phase 1 3 weeks
Phase 2 2 weeks
Phase 3 1 week

Mesocycle 2- "Daily Undulating Periodization" or DUP (1 week)

Use: Excellent on-season "maintainance" strategy for advanced boulderers and sport climbers. (Technically, this "meso

SESSIONS/WEEK
1 - 2 sessions/week
1 - 2 sessions/week
1 - 2 sessions/week
2 days/week

Mesocycle 3 - "4-3-2-1 Periodization" (10 weeks)

Use: Advanced/elite climbers should only use this mesocycle when returning to training/climbing after an extended (4+ wee

DURATION
Phase 1 4 weeks
Phase 2 3 weeks
Phase 3 2 weeks
Phase 4 1 week

Training for Climbing (3rd edition) or The Rock Climber's Exercise Guide (2017) for comprehensive g

Copyright 2016 Eric J. Hörst

DISCLAIMER & TERMS OF USE

 MESOCYCLES

Mesocycle 1 - "3-2-1 Periodization" (6 weeks)

Use: Excellent off-season or between-trip cycle for "gain training". Ideal for boulderers and sport climbers.

TRAINING FOCUS
Relatively low volume maximum strength and power training - targeting the anaerobic alactic energy system.
Moderate volume strength- and power-endurance training - many pumpy climbs & exercises that target the anaerobic lactic s
Pre-trip or pre-comp taper…or 3 to 7 days of active reecovery & rest (before returning to Phase 1 of a next cycle)

Mesocycle 2- "Daily Undulating Periodization" or DUP (1 week)

on-season "maintainance" strategy for advanced boulderers and sport climbers. (Technically, this "mesocycle" is a 1-week microcycle.)

TRAINING & CLIMBING SESSION FOCUS

Submaximal "recovery"/ARC climbing (Aerobic system focus.) Also, do Stabilizer & Antagonist training exercises.
Relatively low volume maximum strength & power training OR bouldering for performance. (Anaerobic alactic focus)
Strength- and power-endurance training OR sport climbing for performance (anaerobic lactic focus)
Complete rest - take these rest days before "performance climbing" (bouldering or cragging)

Mesocycle 3 - "4-3-2-1 Periodization" (10 weeks)

climbers should only use this mesocycle when returning to training/climbing after an extended (4+ weeks) break due to injury or off-seaso

TRAINING FOCUS
High volume submaximal climbing to regain local & general endurance.
Relatively low volume maximum strength and power training - targeting the anaerobic alactic energy system.
Moderate volume strength- and power-endurance training - many pumpy climbs & exercises that target the anaerobic lactic s
Pre-trip or pre-comp taper…or 3 to 7 days of active reecovery & rest (before returning to Phase 1 of a next cycle)

d edition) or The Rock Climber's Exercise Guide (2017) for comprehensive guidance. Learn more at:

Copyright 2016 Eric J. Hörst

DISCLAIMER & TERMS OF USE

actic system.

actic system.
 MICROCYCLE #1
Training Activity MONDAY TUESDAY WEDNESDAY THURSDAY FRIDAY
Performance Climbing (Outside)
Climbing (non-performance/indoors)
Climbing-Specific Exercises
Core Exercises
Antagonist/Stabilizer Exercises
Generalized Aerobic Conditioning

MICROCYCLE #2
Training Activity MONDAY TUESDAY WEDNESDAY THURSDAY FRIDAY
Performance Climbing (Outside)
Climbing (indoors)
Climbing-Specific Exercises
Core Exercises
Antagonist/Stabilizer Exercises
Generalized Aerobic Conditioning

MICROCYCLE #3
Training Activity MONDAY TUESDAY WEDNESDAY THURSDAY FRIDAY
Performance Climbing (Outside)
Climbing (indoors)
Climbing-Specific Exercises
Core Exercises
Antagonist/Stabilizer Exercises
Generalized Aerobic Conditioning

MICROCYCLE #4
Training Activity MONDAY TUESDAY WEDNESDAY THURSDAY FRIDAY
Performance Climbing (Outside)
Climbing (indoors) Hardest Light-Mod
Climbing-Specific Exercises Hardest Light & low-vol.
Core Exercises
Antagonist/Stabilizer Exercises
Generalized Aerobic Conditioning

MICROCYCLE #5 (no outdoor "performance climbing")

Training Activity MONDAY TUESDAY WEDNESDAY THURSDAY FRIDAY
Performance Climbing (Outside)
Climbing (indoors)
Climbing-Specific Exercises
Core Exercises
Antagonist/Stabilizer Exercises
Generalized Aerobic Conditioning
 MICROCYCLE #7 (no outdoot "performance climbing")
Training Activity MONDAY TUESDAY WEDNESDAY THURSDAY FRIDAY
Performance Climbing (Outside)
Climbing (indoors) Light-Mod
Climbing-Specific Exercises Light & low-vol.
Core Exercises
Antagonist/Stabilizer Exercises
Generalized Aerobic Conditioning

LONG-TERM PROGRAMMING & NOTES

Program Focus: Strengthening all 3 energy systems; improving technique & mental skills; performance climbing 1 - 2 days per
Notes: Periodized mesocycle via 4-3-2-1, DUP, or 3-2-1 training cycles. See Mesocycle tab below.

Climbing (3rd edition) or The Rock Climber's Exercise Guide (2017) for comprehensive guidance. Le

Copyright 2016 Eric J. Hörst

DISCLAIMER & TERMS OF USE

 SATURDAY SUNDAY

SATURDAY SUNDAY

SATURDAY SUNDAY

SATURDAY SUNDAY

)
SATURDAY SUNDAY

Hardest Light-Mod
)
SATURDAY SUNDAY

Hardest
Hardest

formance climbing 1 - 2 days per week.

low.

prehensive guidance. Learn more at: www.Training4Climbing.com

 "Advanced" Program [5.11 - 5.13a & V4-V8 ability]
WORKOUT GOALS: Improve limit bouldering ability and develop greater maximum strength & power, specifically targeting the an

Workout with Climbing (2 - 3.25

SUGGESTED REPS & SETS
General Warm-up Activity, including Mobility/Flexibility Exercises (15 - 20 miuntes)
1 5 minutes of jogging, rowing, or other aerobic activity
2 5 minutes of easy (large hold) bouldering
3 5 minutes of mild hip, torso, shoulder, arm, and finger stretching
4 Do 2 set of Scapular Pull-ups 8 - 12 reps
5 Do 1 set of Power Pull-ups (Bar to Chest) 8 - 12

Near-maximal "limit" bouldering & hypergravity bouldering (45 - 90 minutes)

6 Do 4 to 8 near-maximal boulders (within 3 number grades of limit) Rest 3 minutes btwn sends.
7 Work on 2 to 4 "limit" boulders (at limit or within 1 number grade) Rest at least 3 minutes btwn attempts.
8a Do 4 to 8 sub-maximal boulders (4+ number grades below limit) with a 5 or 10 lb weight belt, or….
8b Do two sets/grip of HIT Strip System Training, or….
8c 4 - 8 Campus boulder problems (Monkey Business)

Finger Flexor Strength/Power Exercises (30 - 45 minutes)

9 3 - 5 sets of three "7-53" Max Weight Fingerboard Hangs (OPTIONAL: Do as a training "complex" with next e
10a 6 - 10 sets of campus "laddering" (up only) on medium or small rungs (do either 11a or 11b, not both!)
10b 3 - 5 sets of campus "double dynos" on large or medium rungs (
NOTE: Combine 10 & 11a or 10 & 11b into a training "complex", per TFC book.
11 Wide Pinch (standing with weighted block) -- 10 - 30 pinch w/ 2 min r 2 - 5 pinches each side

Pull-muscle exercises (10 - 20 minutes) REPS SETS

12 Weighted Pull-ups (select weight that would limit you to 7 or 8 reps) 3-5 3-5
13a Campus Ladder (UP only) on large rungs (skip if able…1-3-5-7 or 1-4-7 1 ascent 3-5
13b Power Pull--ups (chest bumb) 4 - 6 reps 3-5
NOTE: Combine 12 & 13a or 12 & 13b into a training "complex", per TFC book. Rest 5 minutes btwn complexes.
(Substitute other exercises, as you like, from the Exercise Directory tab.)

Core Exercises (15 - 30 minutes) REPS SETS

14 Windshield Wipers 6 - 12 1-3
15 Supermans 16 - 20 1-2
16 Front Levers 2-5 2-3
17 Mountain Climber Plank 20 - 30 1
18 TRX/Sling Training "Marine Core" 6 - 12 1-2
19 Feet-up Crunches 50 - 100 1-2
(Substitute other exercises, as you like, from the Exercise Directory tab.)

Forearm Stabilizer Exercises (10 minutes) REPS SETS

 20 Reverse Arm Curls 15 - 20 2
21 Reverse Wrist Curls 15 - 20 2

See Eric Hörst's Training for Climbing (3rd edition) or The Rock Climber's Exercise Guide (2017

Copyright 2016 Eric J. Hörst | All Rights Reserved | w

DISCLAIMER & TERMS OF

 & V4-V8 ability] - Max-Strength & Power Workout

pecifically targeting the anaerobic alactic energy system, with brief (5 - 20 sec.) near-maximal exercise and copious rest between.

out with Climbing (2 - 3.25 hours)

DATE DATE DATE DATE

ROUTES/LAPS ROUTES/LAPS ROUTES/LAPS ROUTES/LAPS

WT - REPS - SETS WT - REPS - SETS WT - REPS - SETS WT - REPS - SETS

WT - REPS - SETS WT - REPS - SETS WT - REPS - SETS WT - REPS - SETS

REPS - SETS REPS - SETS REPS - SETS REPS - SETS

WEIGHT WEIGHT WEIGHT WEIGHT

xercise Guide (2017) for comprehensive guidance. Learn more at: www.Training4Climbing.com

t | All Rights Reserved | www.Training4Climbing.com

DISCLAIMER & TERMS OF USE

mal exercise and copious rest between.

DATE

ROUTES/LAPS

WT - REPS - SETS

WT - REPS - SETS

REPS - SETS

WEIGHT
www.Training4Climbing.com
 "Advanced" Program [5.11 - 5.13a & V4-V8 ability] - Strength/Power-Endura
WORKOUT GOALS: Improve maximum cability during 20 second to 2 minute bursts of climbing/training with brief rest intervals. Develop greater strength-power endurance spe

Workout with Climbing (2.5 - 3.5 hours)

SUGGESTED REPS & SETS DATE DATE
Progressive, General-to-Specific Warm-up Activity (~30 miuntes)
1 5 minutes of jogging, rowing, or other aerobic activity
2 1 set of bodyweight pull-up -- do 1/2 of estimated maximum reps at BW
3 5 - 10 minutes of easy (large hold) bouldering
4 5 minutes of mild hip, torso, shoulder, arm, and finger stretching
5 1 set of Scapular Pull-ups 8 - 12 reps
6 1 set of Power Pull-ups (chest bump) 8 - 12 reps
7 1 set of sub-maximal weighted pull-ups (4 - 8 reps with 10 - 20 lb weight belt)

On-the-Wall Power/Strength-Enduance Training (60 - 90 minutes) ROUTES/LAPS ROUTES/LAPS

8 3 - 5 near-maximal roped gym routes (Rest 10 minutes between roped climbs)
9a 4x4 Bouldering Protocal (strict…with proper rest intervals, per TFC book), or….
9b HIT Strip System AE Protocal, per TFC book (do 9a or 9b, not both)

Finger Flexor Strength/Power-Endurance Exercises (30 - 45 minutes) WT - REPS - SETS WT - REPS - SETS
10a 3 - 5 sets of Long-Duration Fingerboard Repeaters (hang 30"/rest 30" on good holds), or….
10b System Wall "Repeaters" (30 - 60 seconds per set), or…. 3 - 5 sets
10c HIT Strip System AE Protocol (30 - 60 seconds per set) 1 - 2 sets/grip 5 - 10 sets
11 Small rung ladder laps (no skips) -- up & down = 1 lap 1 lap per set 3 - 6 sets

Pull-muscle exercises (10 - 20 minutes) REPS SETS WT - REPS - SETS WT - REPS - SETS
12a Frenchies (~45 - 90 seconds per set), or…. 2 - 4 "cycles"/set 2-4
12b Jug- or large open hand hold "Ladder Laps" on campus board (30 - 60 sec 30 - 60 secs/set 2-4
12c Power Pull-up (chest bump) Intervals (each interval set is 1 minute total 3 - 6 pull-ups/set 5 - 10

Core Exercises (15 - 30 minutes) REPS SETS REPS - SETS REPS - SETS
 13 Windshield Wipers 6 - 12 1-3
14 Supermans 16 - 20 1-2
15 Front Levers 2-5 2-3
16 Mountain Climber Plank 20 - 30 1
17 TRX/Sling Training "Marine Core" 6 - 12 1-2
18 Feet-up Crunches 50 - 100 1-2
(Substitute other exercises, as you like, from the Exercise Directory tab.)

Forearm Stabilizer Exercises (10 minutes) REPS SETS WEIGHT WEIGHT

19 Reverse Arm Curls 15 - 20 2
20 Reverse Wrist Curls 15 - 20 2

See Eric Hörst's Training for Climbing (3rd edition) or The Rock Climber's Exercise Guide (2017) for comprehensive guidance.

Copyright 2016 Eric J. Hörst | All Rights Reserved | www.Training4Climbing.com

DISCLAIMER & TERMS OF USE

Endurance Workout
urance specifically targeting the anaerobic lactic & aerobic energy systems.

DATE DATE DATE

ROUTES/LAPS ROUTES/LAPS ROUTES/LAPS

WT - REPS - SETS WT - REPS - SETS WT - REPS - SETS

WT - REPS - SETS WT - REPS - SETS WT - REPS - SETS

REPS - SETS REPS - SETS REPS - SETS

 WEIGHT WEIGHT WEIGHT

idance. Learn more at: www.Training4Climbing.com

 "Advanced" Program [5.11 - 5.13a & V4-V8 ability] - Aerobic Endu
WORKOUT GOALS: Improve technique & skill and increase climbing stamina (capacity), specifically targeting the aerobic energy system with high-volum

Workout with Climbing (3.0 - 4.5 hours)

SUGGESTED REPS & SETS DATE
Progressive, General-to-Specific Warm-up Activity (~30 miuntes)
1 5 minutes of jogging, rowing, or other aerobic activity
2 1 set of bodyweight pull-up -- do 1/2 of estimated maximum reps at BW
3 5 - 10 minutes of easy (large hold) bouldering
4 5 minutes of mild hip, torso, shoulder, arm, and finger stretching
5 2 set of Scapular Pull-ups 8 - 12 reps
6 1 set of Power Pull-ups (chest bump) 6 - 12 reps
7 1 set of sub-maximal weighted pull-ups (4 - 8 reps with 10 - 20 lb weight belt)

90 - 150 minutes (combined climbing & belaying) Submaximal Roped Climbing (NO deep pump & NO climbing to failure--Important!) ROUTES/LAPS
8 With a partner, alternate climbing laps on "moderate" roped routes (2 to 4 number grades below your redpoint limit).
NOTES: 1. To properly target the aerobic energy system you should only get a light to moderate pump (6 to 8 on a scale of 1 to 10)
2. Judge your workout by "mileage", not pump--build up to 1,500 feet of moderate climbing per session! If you fall, do easier routes.
3. Protocal: Alternate (with partner) doing 15 - 20 minutes of easier climbing OR moderately difficult climbs lasting 3 - 5 minute
4. Alternatively, you can use a Treadwall…climbing intervals on large holds, but resting frequently to keep pump btwn "6" - "8"

Submaximal pull-muscle exercise (10 - 20 minutes) REPS SETS WT - REPS - SETS

9 Pull-up Intervals (exercise for 8 - 12 seconds & rest for 48 - 52 seconds) 3 - 6 pull-ups/set 10 - 20 sets

Finger Flexor Aerobic-Endurance Exercises (0 - 30 minutes) WT - REPS - SETS

10 Short-Duration Fingerboard Repeaters (hang 10"/rest 20" on good holds) - OPTIONAL 6 hangs/ set 3 - 5 sets
(Substitute other exercises, as you like, from the Exercise Directory tab.)

Core Exercises (15 - 30 minutes) REPS SETS REPS - SETS

11 Windshield Wipers 6 - 12 1-2
12 Supermans 16 - 20 1-2
13 Front Levers 2-5 1-2
14 Mountain Climber Plank 20 - 30 1
15 TRX/Sling Training "Marine Core" 6 - 12 1-2
16 Feet-up Crunches 50 - 100 1-2
(Substitute other exercises, as you like, from the Exercise Directory tab.)

Forearm Stabilizer Exercises (10 minutes) REPS SETS WEIGHT

17 Reverse Arm Curls 15 - 20 2
18 Reverse Wrist Curls 15 - 20 2

See Eric Hörst's Training for Climbing (3rd edition) or The Rock Climber's Exercise Guide (2017) for comprehensive gu

Copyright 2016 Eric J. Hörst | All Rights Reserved | www.Training4Climbing.com

DISCLAIMER & TERMS OF USE

erobic Endurance Workout
ystem with high-volume, moderate-intensity continuous and interval climbing/training.

DATE DATE DATE DATE

ROUTES/LAPS ROUTES/LAPS ROUTES/LAPS ROUTES/LAPS

WT - REPS - SETS WT - REPS - SETS WT - REPS - SETS WT - REPS - SETS

WT - REPS - SETS WT - REPS - SETS WT - REPS - SETS WT - REPS - SETS

REPS - SETS REPS - SETS REPS - SETS REPS - SETS

 WEIGHT WEIGHT WEIGHT WEIGHT

comprehensive guidance. Learn more at: www.Training4Climbing.com

ning4Climbing.com

USE
 "Advanced" Program [5.11 - 5.13a & V4-V8 ability] - Stabilizer/Antagoni
WORKOUT GOALS: Increase strength and endurance in the vital stabilizer & antagonist muscles of the arms, shoulders, and torso.
NOTE: If you are a serious climber, then this is your most important workout--do it twice per week!
Workout with Climbing (1.0- 1.5 hours)
DATE
General Warm-up Activity, including Mobility/Flexibility Exercises (~10 miuntes)
1 5 minutes of jogging, rowing, or other aerobic activity
2 5 minutes of mild hip, torso, shoulder, arm, and finger stretching

Antagonist/Stabilizer Exercises (30 - 60 minutes) REPS SETS WT - REPS - SETS

3 Shoulder Press 15 - 20 1-2
4 Bench Press 12 - 16 1-2
5 Finger band extensions 15 - 20 1-2
6 Reverse Wrist Curls 15 - 20 2
7 TRX/Sling Trainer "Ts" 6 - 12 2
8 TRX/Sling Trainer "Ys" 6 - 12 2
9 Dips 8 - 15 2-3
10 Dumbbell External Rotation 15 - 25 2-3
11 Dumbbell Internal Rotation 15 - 25 2-3
(Substitute other exercises, as you like, from the Exercise Directory tab.)

Total Core Exercises (15 - 30 minutes) - OPTIONAL REPS SETS WT - REPS - SETS
12 Sumo Deadlift (30 - 60 lb dumbbell or kettlebell) 10 - 15 1
13 Barbell Squat 5-8 2
14 Barbell Deadlift 3-6 2-3
(Substitute other exercises, as you like, from the Exercise Directory tab.)

See Eric Hörst's Training for Climbing (3rd edition) or The Rock Climber's Exercise Guide (2017) for comprehensive guidance
Copyright 2016 Eric J. Hörst | All Rights Reserved | www.Training4Climbing.com

DISCLAIMER & TERMS OF USE

ty] - Stabilizer/Antagonist Workout

, and torso.

- 1.5 hours)
DATE DATE DATE DATE

WT - REPS - SETS WT - REPS - SETS WT - REPS - SETS WT - REPS - SETS

WT - REPS - SETS WT - REPS - SETS WT - REPS - SETS WT - REPS - SETS

017) for comprehensive guidance. Learn more at: www.Training4Climbing.com

 | www.Training4Climbing.com

MS OF USE