3-Tier Training Progression - Rock Climbing This model is based on the idea that a climbers training should reflect

the level at which he is performing during the season. In essence, it is a linear periodization plan, but the athlete is not subject to the plan, the plan is altered as the athlete progresses. This entire plan usually lasts 8 to 14 weeks and can be repeated several times per season. Both the gym-based training and performance climbing at the crag will be detailed for each of the training phases. Progression is based on how the climber is performing. We set up a five-tier performance pyramid as an indicator of when the athlete moves on to the next phase. The top of the pyramid is decided based on what the climbers goal route is. In the example below, lets say that route is a 13b. I will explain this as an upside-down pyramid, as it makes more sense with the training progression. Tier Tier Tier Tier Tier 1: 2: 3: 4: 5: Base 1 (10 routes) 12a/b Base 2 (8 routes) 12c Build 1 (4 routes) 12d Build 2 (2 routes) 13a Performance (1-3 routes) 13b

Phase 1 - Base This phase is characterized by a lack of focus. We concentrate on volume of total work, general strength training, and variety of outside training. The Base phase will last anywhere between 3 and 12 weeks, and is dependent on how much climbing you can actually get done. This program is written for climbers training indoors most of the time and climbing primarily on weekends. The primary focus of Base is to build fitness and develop redpoint mileage. Many of the routes youll redpoint during this phase will be onsight, most should be done in two tries. A big part of the Base phase is building volume of training; this can include several forms of workouts, from resistance training, to alpine climbing to running. Youll be taking care of energy system development, improving your bodys ability to fuel exercise, which is not specific to movement type, but rather intensity of effort. In terms of quantifying training, your primary

focus will be to increase your training duration each week, focusing more on time / volume of work than on intensity of effort. Our interest during these weeks is to build both base strength and endurance. Despite opinions to the contrary, both can be developed simultaneously, and even during the same sessions. It is important to understand that the full-body strength, power, and endurance needs of climbers is relatively minor compared to other sports. What rock climbers need to develop are skill, coordination, finger strength, core strength, and local muscular endurance. These factors are all improved through volume of climbing. During this phase, the performance aspect of your climbing is redpointing routes 3-5 grades below your goal performance level. These are routes that will usually be done in 1-3 tries, resulting in your ticking through your 20 (8+12) redpoints fairly quickly. Again, the duration of this phase is governed by the completion of these twenty routes. When youre done with these, youre ready to move on to the next phase, Build. Climbing: At the crag the plan is to redpoint 10 climbs in the performance -(minus) 4 to 5 range, in our example, this is 12a/b. We also redpoint 8 climbs at performance - 3 (12c). The act of redpointing is critical, so only onsight, flash, and redpoint ascents are legitimate. No toproping allowed! Any climber whose redpoint goal is 3-5 grades higher should be occasionally flashing the routes on Tier 1. At this level, many routes on the pyramid can be done each day. It is not necessary to fully complete Tier 1 before climbing the routes of Tier 2. It is, however, necessary to complete all of the routes of Tiers 1 and 2 before moving on to Tier 3. Training: During this phase, the climber cycles between three workouts in the rock gym, and supplements them (if desired) with a strength program in the weight room. Our goal is to develop many facets of training at once. The climbing workouts are as follows: Session 1: Hangboard. 3 positions (open, half-crimp, full-crimp), 5 sets each, 5 second hold. A critical note: load must be adjusted to limit hang length to 5 seconds. If youre not close to max, this is the easiest workout in the world.

Session 2: Bouldering. Sticking to short problems or sections of problems (38 moves), complete as many problems above your onsight-level as possible in 45 minutes. With a 15 minute warm-up this session clocks in right at an hour. Session 3: Linked Problems. These consist of linking (or doing back-to-back without rest) two to three boulder problems for a total of 15-25 moves. The critical aspect of this workout is that movement be continuous, and that maximum recovery occur between sets. Try for 4-6 sets to begin. Advanced climbers can do up to about 10 sets per workout. The resistance training program I recommend is pretty simple. After a good warm-up, we do four sets each of the following pairs: A1: 4-6 1-arm inverted rows A2: 4-6 1-leg squat B1: 4-6 dumbbell bench press B2: 2-4 deadlift Each exercise is done to repetition maximum, and is done with perfect form. 2-3 days per week should do the trick. Weak core? Then add a few sets of the following triplet: C1: 20 Plank/Pull Combo left C2: Ankles-to-Bar C3: 20 Plank/Pull Combo right

Phase 2 - Build This is where we get a little more focused, and start to see performancelevel efforts occasionally. During this phase, we work on extending our gained strength into strength-endurance. We start spending a lot of time with interval (anaerobic) efforts. Now your goal is to move on to redpointing routes one to two grades easier than your goal route. Most of these routes should be similar to your end-goal route; similarities in length, angle, rock type, etc. will pay dividends. During the build phase we drop all supplemental non-specific training. This means no more running, cycling, or random weight training. Any resistance training you do should only be done when there is no climbing option, and

should consist of movements that are as sport-specific as possible, both motorically and metabolically. The total duration of training will naturally drop off, but the intensity that you can and will train will increase. This is primarily accomplished by forced rest days before redpoint days, and by eliminating junk training. Since the routes youll be doing have harder moves and smaller holds, the gym training you do will need to reflect this.

Climbing: At the crag, the focus is on dispatching the routes in Tiers 3 and 4. We want to redpoint 4 routes that are two grades easier than the goal route and two routes that are one grade easier. This is a real challenge for many of our climbers, as project-level fitness is close enough that they jump the gun and start throwing themselves at a months-long effort to do one route. Training: In this phase, we still want to keep strength and power in mind, although the goal of the phase is to develop anaerobic endurance. To do this, we cycle between two different workouts. Session 1: Bouldering + Hangboard. The first half of the workout (postwarm-up) is dedicated to hard bouldering. I like to see 30-45 minutes dedicated to this. You should be doing problems much harder than you can onsight, but might only get 5-8 problems in a 30 minute session. Remember that power development is your goal, not fatigue. After bouldering, rest 5-10 minutes, then move on to the hangboard. Train the same 3 positions (open, half-crimp, full-crimp) as before, 3 sets each, 8 second hold. You can add specific hang positions if necessary for your goal routes, such as tiny crimps, shallow pockets, or the like. Session 2: Intervals. Here, we want to do either a goal-specific 4x4 session, a density bouldering session, or linked problems. Well sometimes spend 46 weeks in this phase, so there is time for a progression through each of these three types of intervals. Good record keeping and clear progressions are critical - if youre anywhere near your limit, you cant mess around with wasted training sessions. I frequently dump the weight training during this phase. If you feel like

youve got the juice to keep it going, stick to two days per week, same major exercises, and drop it to 2 sets per exercise. No need to go heavier on this one...were happy just to maintain strength at this point.

Phase 3 - Performance This is the redpoint phase. All crag days are dedicated to attempts at dispatching your project(s). Recovery between sessions is paramount. Eat right (no trying to lose weight!), stay hydrated, and if you feel like training, do some stretching. Climbing: At the crag, you are redpointing. If youve done everything right, you should hit your redpoint goal fairly quickly. Thats why the normal one route at the top of the pyramid doesnt always apply. Our experience shows that many climbers can do two to three project-level routes before fitness declines. My guess is that this is because we allow the physiological development of the athlete to determine when to change phases and not the calendar. Training: The only training youll do is when you absolutely cannot get to the crag. In this case, stick to short, intense workouts. Include about 20-30 minutes of limit-level bouldering followed by 20 minutes of density bouldering or linked problems. The links should be harder than your project, but of shorter duration. If you want to do 1-2 sets of hangs on route-specific holds at the end of a session, you can do so. Youll know when this phase is over. Youll be tired. Let it go. Take a couple of weeks off and then start over.