3 skill

level free SUPPLIES & TOOLS:

• Stonehill Collection Fabric:
1 yd large floral print fabric
1 yd lavender and green floral print
1 yd green pattern print
1 yd lavender pattern print
• 4 buttons
• 3/4 yd narrow decorative cotton cording or narrow ribbon
• 1 yd lightweight interfacing
• Pattern fabric, muslin, tissue for pattern
• Sewing machine and basic sewing supplies
• Dressform, optional

DIRECTIONS: CREATE YOUR PATTERN

1. Make your pattern by following steps 2 through 8. TIP: Have a friend available to take your measurements or
use your dressform. Fig. A

2. For the Front Yoke, measure your body and draw the pattern shown in the figure at
right. For length A, measure from your shoulder to 1/2" below the neck. For length B,
measure from the center of your body to the side of your neck. Draw the side neck F
edge slanting as shown Fig. A. Length C is the length you want the yoke to be, we
suggest measuring to just below the bust line. This is the center front line of your
pattern. Length D is the length to the center of your breast. Length E is about 1/2 the
length of the shoulder; the shoulder line angles downward 1/2". Then draw line F to connect the shoulder
seam to the lower edge. Line F should be parallel to the angled neck edge. Compare the pattern to your body
and make any needed changes.
3. For the right side, add 1/2" seam allowance to all edges. For the left side, add 11⁄4" to the center front and
Fig. B
1/2" to the other edges.
4. For the Back Yoke, trace the pattern for the front along the seam lines, omitting the
neck edges. Extend line C above the neck line on the front pattern. Then draw a
curved line for the back neckline as shown in Fig. B. Add 1/2" seam allowance to all
edges except the center back. Place the center back on the fold when cutting out the
pattern piece.
design-your-own peasant top 5. For the sleeves, measure on your body from the center of your shoulder where the yoke
Fig. C
ends to just above the elbow. Add about 4" to this measurement. Then measure
from the outer shoulder on the yoke straight down to the bottom of the yoke for
the width of the sleeve, see Fig. C. Double this measurement and add 1" seam
allowance for the length of the sleeve. Fold the sleeve pattern in half and place the
yoke along the inner edge. Trace the diagonal line. See figure at right.
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 6. For cuff, measure around arm above elbow and add 2". Cut rectangle this width by 21⁄2". 6. Stitch diagonal edge of sleeves to outer edge of yoke front and back (outer fabric only,
7. To determine the width of the front and back pattern pieces, take your bust measurement and divide it do not include lining in seam.) See Fig. I.
in half. Then add about 8". Make sure this measurement will go around your hips. If not, use your hip Fig. I
measurement divided in half plus about 3". Measure the length you want minus 3/4". Fig. D
8. Lower band: Make a pattern the same width as front and back (step 6 above) by 41⁄2".
9. For the pocket, draw a rectangle 61⁄2" wide by 73⁄4" high. Round the bottom corners as 7. Trim seam allowance. Press under edge of lining and stitch in place along the edge of
shown in Fig. D. seam. See Fig. J.
10. TIP: Test your pattern using muslin or other inexpensive fabric and try it on before
Fig. J
cutting the good fabric. Make any adjustment needed to your patterns.
11. Cut the fabric as indicated in steps 11 through 15 below.
12. Cut the following from the green pattern print fabric. With fabric folded in half, cut 2 right front yokes and
8. Lap right front over left front matching center front lines. Baste in place along seam
2 left front yokes. Cut 2 back yokes placing center on fold of fabric. Cut a 12" by 11⁄2" wide bias strip for
line of lower edge. See Fig. K.
button loops.
13. Cut 2 sleeves and 1 pocket from large floral print fabric. Fig. K

14. Cut a piece for each front and back from the lavender and green floral print. Fig. E
9. From the center front, measure out 1/4 of the bust measurement plus Fig. L
15. Cut 2 lower bands and 2 cuffs from the lavender pattern print fabric.
about 1" for ease along the lower edge. Make a dot on the seam line at
16. Cut the following from the interfacing. For fronts, cut two pieces about 2"
this point. Stitch the sleeve fronts to backs beginning at the dot and
wide using the neck and center edge as your guide. For the back cut a piece
continuing to the sleeve edge. Try this part of the top on and make sure
using the neck and shoulder edge as your guide. See Fig. E. Cut two cuff
it goes on over your shoulders. Clip to dots at inner edge of seam. See
pieces 1" by the length of the cuff.
Fig. L. Zigzag finish seam allowance of sleeves.
BLOUSE CONSTRUCTION: 10. Make two rows of gathering stitches along lower edge of sleeve (1/4" and 1/2" from edge).
Fig. M
1. Stitch seams right sides together using 1/2" seam allowance unless otherwise indicated. Fig. F
2. Fuse interfacing to wrong side of front and back yoke pieces. Refer to Fig. E above. 11. Fold cuff in half lengthwise and press lightly. Open out cuff
3. Stitch fronts to back along shoulder seams. See Fig. F. Stitch remaining fronts to back and fuse interfacing to wrong side of cuff. Stitch ends of cuff
for lining. together and press seam open. See Fig. M. Fig. N

4. For button loops, fold bias strip (cut in step 11 above) in half wrong side out and insert
narrow cording inside the fold so cording extends below fabric. Using a zipper foot, stitch
along the edge of the cord then stitch across the cord to anchor the fabric to 12. Gather sleeve evenly around cuff and stitch seam. Trim seam allowance.
Fig. G
the cord. Trim seam allowance to 1/8". Push fabric tube down over anchor See Fig. N.
Fig. O
stitches, turning it right side out over lower cording. See Fig. G. Cut four 21⁄2"
pieces (length to go around button plus 1/2" seam allowance at each end.)
Make 4 loops evenly spaced between the top seam line of the right front yoke 13. Fold cuff in half turning under seam allowance of raw edge along seam
Fig. H
and 11⁄2" from lower edge. Ends of loops should be even with center line. Stitch edge of cuff in place. See Fig. O.
front edge.
5. Stitch lining to yoke along center and neck edge. See Fig. H. Trim seam 14. Make two rows of gathering stitches along top of fronts and back. Fig. P

allowance and clip to corners on fronts and along curve of back neck. Turn right side out. Gather front and back to lower edge of yoke/sleeve piece with gathers
Press edges. mostly between edges of yoke. Stitch seams. Zigzag finish seam
allowance. See Fig. P.
 Project courtesy of
the Stonehill Collection
by Donna Wilder
Designed by Marsha Evans Moore

15. Stitch front to back at side edges. Fig. Q. Zigzag finish seam allowance. Fig. Q

16. Stitch lower band pieces together along the side edges. See figure below. Stitch lower band to lower edge of
front and backs. Fig. R. Trim seam allowance and press toward band.

Fig. R

17. Turn under 1/2" along remaining edge of lower band and pin in place along seam line. Stitch edge of lower
band in place. Fig. S

Fig. S

18. Press under 1/4" along top edge of pocket. Then fold under a 1" hem. Stitch 1/2" from side edges and baste
around seam line of pocket below hem. Fig. T

Fig. T
Fig. U

19. Clip corner and turn top edge right side out. Press under top hem and 1/2"
along sides and lower edge. Place pocket on one side of front about 1/2"
above lower band. Stitch sides and lower edge in place. See Fig. U.

Fig. V

20. Sew buttons to left front using button loops as your guide for placement. See Fig. V.

Skill Level 3: Pattern-making & Sewing skills needed Approximate Crafting Time: 1 day
Please read and follow all manufacturers’ instructions for all tools and materials used.
Provide adult supervision if children participate in this project.
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P070-135