Aluminium Panelling

Estimated time to complete this section: 1-2 days

Hints and Tips for Bending Panels

• Progressively bend using a rubber hammer.
• Hit the aluminium in a sweeping stroke with a rubber hammer
• Use various sized wooden blocks to flatten a bend.
• Use a small wooden block for tight sections or difficult bends
• Don’t use a metal hammer on aluminium as it can mark it.
• Secure panelling with clamps held in place with blocks of wood to avoid damage.
• Before bending a section of aluminium, secure the side opposite the bend with a block of wood,
clamped in place. Make sure the wood is level with the intended bend.
• Use masking tape to protect the chassis

Tools Parts
Rubber hammer 2x floor panels
Electric drill with 4mm and 2x side panels
12mm drill bits
Various blocks of wood 2x tunnel panels
Pop rivet gun Front bulkhead
Marker pen Pop rivetts
Angle iron and bench vice Masking tape
Tin snips Angled aluminium

What to do Photos
Take passenger side tunnel panel and bend the ends
at the rear to fit onto the chassis. Use a piece of angle
iron and a vice to bend the aluminium and use a
rubber hammer and block of wood to make a right
angle bend. You may need to trim the panel to fit the
tunnel using a pair of tin snips.

Take driver side tunnel panel, place on top of

passenger side panel and make sure cut outs for cross
members meet up. Bend over excess at rear of panel.
Clamp the panels in place. Mark holes for drilling at Make sure your drill will fit in place for drilling
75mm intervals along the top, bottom and front edges the chassis later. If not, mark an easier to access
What to do Photos
of the panels. Remove the panels and drill 4mm holes hole in the aluminium panel instead.
where marked. Clean up the rear of the holes with a
larger drill bit or de-burrer tool.
Refit the panels and secure with clamps. Drill holes
into the chassis, but don’t pop-rivett the panels.
This will be done later. It’s easier to measure up and
drill the holes at this stage.

Fit one panel at a time and mark holes for the diff
mounting and seat belt mount (from inside tunnel).
Remove panels and drill holes using 12mm drill bit

Turn chassis upside down. Back end may tip up so

secure front to stands with cable ties if possible.
Fit floor panels The widest floor panel is the
driver’s side. The outer edges must be at least 1mm
in from the chassis edge so the side panels can be
fitted later.
The rear part of the floor must fit flush to the rear
chassis member.
Drill holes for the inner corners. Do not drill any Use masking tape to mark drill holes with a
holes along the outer section of the panel because the straight edge.
side panels need to be fitted first.
Drill holes at 50mm intervals along the tunnel side
member. Crossmembers should be drilled at 25mm
intervals. Fit pop rivetts.

Clamp side panels in place making sure front edge is .

flush to the fold. Fit masking tape along edge, draw
line with straight edge, mark up and drill 50mm
intervals. Fit pop rivetts.
Use a wooden block and rubber hammer to ensure
flush fitting of panel edge to chassis rail. Remove the
protective film along the bottom edge of the side
panels to drill and pop rivet.

Turn chassis correct side up.

What to do Photos
Clamp side panel at front, bend edges over using
wooden block and rubber hammer.

Cut two strips of angled aluminium for mounting

the nose cone. The length should be approximately
125mm and mounted 50mm up from the front bottom
corner of the chassis and 5mm in from the edge. Drill
four 4mm holes to mount the aluminium to the
chassis. Clamp, drill and pop rivett in place.

Clamp a length of wood to the aluminium side panel

and side of the chassis. Cut a slot in the aluminium
where the windscreen upright starts. Trim the
aluminium where it sits into the base of the
windscreen upright, making sure it will fit.

Use a rubber hammer and block of wood to bend the

aluminium over onto the engine bay chassis rail.
Bend the aluminium progressively. Make sure it’s
flattened against the chassis rail.

Clamp the aluminium panel along the windscreen

upright using a length of wood. Cut any excess
aluminium off at the top of windscreen upright.
Hammer down the aluminium along the upright with
a block of wood and a rubber hammer.

Fit 3 pop rivetts along the windscreen upright (top,

bottom and middle) equally spaced.
What to do Photos
Cut a slot in the aluminium at the base of the
dashboard upright. Bend the aluminium over for the
dashboard upright.

If you are fitting a GRP dashboard, cut two pieces of

90mm length angled aluminium. Drill three holes for
mounting and drill equivalent holes in the dashboard
upright. Pop rivett this angled aluminium 50mm from
the top of the dashboard upright and 5mm in from the
outer edge.

Cut a slot in the aluminium at the rear of the chassis

side member to enable it to bend over the chassis.
Also cut the edge off here so that it folds flush over
the chassis. Bend the aluminium over this member
onto two sides (top and inside).

Don’t pop rivett in place. If you are fitting internal

panels, you may want to pop rivvet into the chassis
.
side member later.
Fit masking tape to the four rear edges of the side
panel. Mark and drill holes at the corners then at
75mm intervals. Remove the tape and pop rivett the
rear of the side panel.
The rear tub will hide the rear section of the side
panel, so don’t trim or tidy it up. Avoid pop rivetts
where the rear edges of the tub will be mounted.

Scuttle panel – trial fit and fold the bottom left and
right edges to be horizontal when fitted. Refit and
make sure middle front edge fits flush to chassis.
Also, make sure side edges of the scuttle line up with
the windscreen uprights.
What to do Photos
Fit masking tape along the top and side edges of the
scuttle panel. The aluminium will be folded over and
onto the chassis. Make sure there isn’t too much
aluminium. Trim if required.

Cut the top corners off the scuttle panel to enable the
edges to be folded over the chassis.
Cut out a section of aluminium in the scuttle panel to
avoid a chassis rail on the passenger side.
Cut the lower corners off the scuttle panel.
Pop rivet lower section of scuttle panel as shown
here.

Clamp along the top of the windscreen rail and

bottom section of the scuttle panel. Bend the top
section of the aluminium over onto the chassis.
Secure the top of the scuttle (base of windscreen)
with three pop rivets, which can be drilled out later.

Bend over the scuttle panel sides onto the windscreen

uprights.
Drill and pop rivvet at 75 mm intervals along the
main flat section of the scuttle panel.
Steering column, Pedal Box and brake lines
Estimated time to complete this section: 1 day

Notes:
The brake lines must be fitted before fitting the front suspension
These instructions cover a LHD Ford Sierra brake master cylinder.

Tools Parts
50mm hole cutter Ford Sierra steering column with bushes
4+6mm drill bits Raw UK pedals and spindle for Striker
Electric drill Yoke and clevis pin for brake pedal
Round bar (metal/wood) Spacer tubing for pedal spindle
13mm spanner and socket 2 split pins for securing pedal spindle
Hacksaw Pop rivets
Flat and round file P-clips
Tape measure or similar Brake and fuel lines
Allen key or small thin rod Rear differential
Pop rivet gun

What to do Photos
Use a round metal or wooden bar to mark a hole in
the scuttle panel for the steering column. Hold the
bar central in the two holes in the pedal box.
Drill one 4mm hole into the scuttle panel, then use
at least a 50mm hole cutter from inside the cab.
Tidy the hole with a file.
Trial fit the steering column and bolt in place with
two 17mm (M10) bolts and flat washers.

Fit the master cylinder with two 13mm bolts, four

washers and two 13mm nuts. The bolt heads
should be at the rear of the car and the nuts at the
front.
What to do Photos
Take the pedals and steel spindle. Slide the spindle
into the pedal box and fit the pedals. The clutch
pedal is straight and the brake pedal is angled. The
accelerator pedal can be moved along the spindle
to adjust the distance between it and the brake
pedal. To fix in place, measure the distance on the
spindle between the accelerator and centre section
inside the pedal box. Cut a suitable piece of tubing
and fit.
If the accelerator pedal still feels too close to the
brake, it can be bent in a vice using a hammer.
Make a double bend in the pedal shaft so the pedal
is still vertical.
The top of the brake pedal needs to modified to fit
a yoke and clevis pin. Drill a 10mm hole in the top
right corner (looking from the driver’s side when
fitted) of the brake pedal. Then cut away the top
left section to allow the yoke and clevis pin to be
fitted.

Drill a 6mm hole in the top centre of the clutch

pedal. This will take an M6 bolt for the clutch
cable. Round off the top edges of the pedal if
desired.
Refit the pedals onto the spindle, the clevis pin for
the brake pedal and the yoke that attaches to it.
Position the brake pedal so the bottom of it (the
pedal) is over the crossmember in the footwell.
Now measure the distance between the first
plunger in the master cylinder and the thread in the
yoke. We’ve used an allen key to calculate the
distance.

Cut the head end off the bolt that screws into the
yoke. Cut it down to the length measured in the
previous step plus the length of the thread in the
yoke (20mm). Round the cut end so that it can fit
into the master cylinder. As a guide, we’re using a
LHD Sierra master cylinder (part No 383061) and
the bolt has been cut down to 80mm, but this
length depends on the geometry of the hole in the
top of the pedal.
What to do Photos
Fit the spindle for the pedals. There should be
enough excess at both ends to drill a 4mm hole and
fit a split pin (required for SVA).
Before drilling the holes, make a flat on the ends
of the spindles with a grinder or file, then punch a
hole. This will save you slipping and drilling parts
of your anatomy.

Brake and Fuel lines

Brake lines supplied in kit or to be made

Position on car Connection Length
OSR to flexi hose F-M (Female-Male) 24 inches/61cm
NSR to flexi hose F-M 7 inches/18cm
Compensator to rear. Fit through M-M 82 inches/208cm
tunnel and P-clip to driver’s side.
Master cylinder to compensator M-M 8 inches/20cm
Master cylinder to front M-M 51 inches/129.5cm
OSF to flexi hose F-M 9 inches/22.9cm
NSF to flexi hose F-M 25 inches/63.5cm

What to do Tips and Photos

Fit the brake actuator into the side of
the pedal box. Secure with two 10mm
nuts and bolts.

Fit the brake light switch into the

master cylinder
Fit the brake lines using the table above
and pictures displayed here. Pop rivet
P-clips at 100mm intervals.

Fit the flexi-hoses as detailed in the

table above.

Fit the main fuel line from the front to

the rear and P-clip in place at 100mm
intervals. Run this along the driver’s
What to do Tips and Photos
side of the tunnel (inside) along with
the rear brake line.
Trial fit the diff to ensure the brake and
fuel lines don’t foul it. For SVA, make
sure the brake lines are kept as far away
as possible from moving parts. When
routing a line over a chassis rail for
example, leave plenty of space. The T-
piece for the rear brakes is a tight fit if
mounted centrally in front of the diff.
There’s more space if it’s mounted to
the left or right of the centre.

Steering rack
This section should be completed after the steering column has been fitted.
The steering rack kit consists of:-
1. Steering rack
2. Two track rod ends with extensions
3. Two clamps and rubber mounts (different sizes)
4. Four 13mm bolts and nylock nuts and eight washers

What to do Photos
Cut the two rubber mounts along the base to enable
them to be fitted onto the steering rack.
Slide the rack into place. Fit the rubber mounts then
the metal clamps. Add a little oil to the rubbers to
help fit the clamps. These are a tight fit. Use a G-
clamp to squeeze them into place and try to fit the
13mm mounting bolts to the chassis. Tighten all
four bolts. Make sure the bolt heads are on the
steering rack side and the nylock nuts underneath
the chassis mounts. Use two washers with each nut
and bolt.

Fit the track rod end extensions followed by the

track rod ends. The triangular sections on each track
rod end should face towards the rear of the car.
Suspension, Brakes and Differential

Estimated time to complete this section: half day

Notes:
Front suspension must be completed after brake lines have been fitted
Do not tighten any nuts or bolts on the suspension (except for front rocker arms) until the car is on level
ground and the suspension is under load.

Tools Parts
Rubber hammer, copper and hide hammer Rear suspension – 2 dampers, 2 coil springs, 2
upper wishbones, 2 lower wishbones, 2 Sierra
uprights
17mm and 19mm spanners and sockets, Front suspension – 2 rocker arms, 4 bushes, 2
torque wrench metal steel tubes, 4 MKI Metro ball joints, 2
Sierra uprights
Round file, wet and dry paper Front brakes – 2 Sierra uprights, 2 discs, 2
calliper carriers, 2 callipers with brake pads
Rear brakes – 2 drums and 2 back plates or 2
discs with 2 calliper carriers and 2 callipers with
brake pads.
Brake pipes, flexi-hoses, brackets and T-pieces
2 wing stays and shim steel
Copper grease

What to do Photos
Rear: Wind the spring seat and locking nut down to the
base of the damper. Fit the coil spring and C-collar then
wind the spring seat and locking nut up to secure the coil
spring.
Rear: Fit the coilover to the top mount on the chassis.
Make sure the adjuster for the damper (at the bottom) is
facing to the rear of the car – this will make adjusting it
easier in the future
What to do Photos
Rear: Fit the suspension components as shown in our
pictures. Note the length and direction of all the bolts and
the quantity of washers fitted. Do NOT tighten any of
these nuts and bolts. This must be done when the car is
on the ground and the suspension is under load. All nuts
and bolts have 19mm heads.

NOTE: The uprights are fitted with the flat sides nearest
the front of the car.
All bolts face rearwards except the coilovers.
Upper wishbone bolt to upright is 80mm, all others are
70mm except lower wishbone to upright.
The wishbone bolts nearest the front of the car should not
be fitted with washers at the bolt heads. There’s very
little room when the rear bulkhead is fitted.
Fit the rear differential. This is located by two long
(different lengths) 19mm bolts on top and underneath the
diff, and two other 19mm bolts that are fitted from inside
the cab through the tunnel. Trial fit all bolts first before
fitting the diff. The holes in the chassis for these bolts
may need cleaning or enlarging. After fitting the diff,
tighten the top and bottom bolts and nuts, but only
loosely fit the two bolts in the cab. These will be fitted
later after the internal tunnel panels have been fitted.

Rear drums or Rear discs. The following instructions apply to both.

The only difference in fitting is the driveshafts need to be fitted first for rear drums.
Fit the uprights with the lugs/holes for the callipers (disc
rear only) facing the front. Fit four 17mm bolts and nuts
(supplied in the kit) and fully tighten.
What to do Photos
Fit the drive coupling in from the rear of the upright and
hub, then fit the drive flange from the outside. Fit the
axle washer and nut, then tighten with an air tool or
strong arm.

Rear: Make two L-brackets to mount each rear brake

pipe to flexi-hose connection. Mount each bracket on the
upper wishbones using the bolt nearest the front of the
car.
If fitting rear disc brakes, fit the disc, followed by the
calliper carrier, the brake pads and finally the calliper.
Ensure the handbrake mechanism works on each calliper.
If not, remove the calliper and wind out the piston.
Connect the flexi-hose to the calliper to finish the rear
brakes.
Front: A bracket on both front corners is used to hold the
brake pipe to flexi-hose connection. Drill a hole through
the aluminium so the flexi-hose can run into the engine
bay.

Front: Fit the front lower wishbones using 80mm bolts

with 19mm heads. Fit bolts facing rearwards and do NOT
tighten. Screw the lower ball joints in place, tighten and
upturn the locking tab to secure them.

Front: Take the rocker arms and clean inside the pivot
tube where the bushes and sleeving will fit. Clean the
steel tube that fits into the rocker arm. Check the nylon
bushes can fit. These are tight, but will probably need
some material removing from the outside and inside to fit
inside the rocker arm and for the steel tube to fit. Fit the
bushes followed by the steel tube.
What to do Photos
Front: After fitting the bushes and steel tube into the
rocker arm, make sure the tube is flush to the bush on one
side. The tube should protrude by approximately 0.5mm
on the other side. If it is more than this, trim it. If it is
less, one or both of the bushes will need trimming.
Front: Fit the rocker arm, using a rubber hammer to help
and a metal bar to locate the bolt holes. Fit the long bolts
from the front and tighten to 75Nm or 60lb ft. These are
the only suspension components to be tightened whilst
the chassis is supported on stands. All other nits and bolts
for the suspension must be tightened when the road
wheels are fitted and the vehicle is not supported on
stands (i.e. the suspension is under load).

Front: Wind the spring seat and locking nut down to the
base of the damper. Fit the coil spring and C-collar then
wind the spring seat and locking nut up to secure the coil
spring.
What to do Photos
Front: Secure the front hub in a vice with the flange and
wheel studs facing down. Take the metal wing stay, wrap
a length of shim steel around the base of it and fit it into
the section where the base of the McPherson strut is fitted
on a standard Sierra. Make sure the wing stay is
horizontal and there’s a distance of 30mm protruding
from the hub to the top of the wing stay as shown here.
Tighten the 19mm nut and bolt to secure the wing stay
(it’s an allen key bolt in our photo). Fit a MKI Metro ball
joint into the wing stay and fully tighten. Knock back the
locking tabs to secure the ball joint.

Front: Fit the whole front assembly in place and tighten

the 19mm ni-lock nuts for the upper and lower ball joints.

Fit the coilovers using 19mm nuts and bolts. Fit the bolts
facing towards the rear of the car (bolt heads at the front).
Do not tighten any of these nuts or bolts until the
suspension is under load.

Fit the front brakes starting with the disc, calliper carrier,
pads, calliper, spring retainers and finally connect the
flexi-hose.

Live Axle Photos

Location of fore link and live axle

Location of panhard rod

Wiring and Electrics

SVA Wiring Rules

Grommets must be fitted where a wire passes through a panel
The fuse box must be mounted away from moving parts including the driver and passenger.

Tools Parts
Electric drill, 4mm drill bit, 50mm hole cutter or Raw wiring loom
similar size
Fuse box
Cable ties

What to do Photos
To feed the loom from the front to the rear, it can
run through the tunnel. From inside the cab, drill a
4mm hole in the gearbox tunnel cover, 75mm in
from the scuttle rail and approximately 55mm left of
the driver’s side tunnel rail. The dimensions noted
here do not need to be exact, but avoid drilling
through the chassis. After drilling the hole, enlarge
it with a 50mm hole cutter, then fit the large rubber
grommet supplied in the kit.
Take the wiring loom and check the connections.
Identify the sections of the loom that feed to the
front and rear of the car. Place the entire loom in the
cab, then feed the two front sections and one rear
through the gearbox tunnel. Identify the remaining
sections inside the cab.
Decide where to mount the fuse box. It must be out
of the way. For example, it can be mounted on the
inside of the scuttle panel or on a separate panel
mounted to the scuttle rail.

Tie the rear loom in the tunnel with cable ties at

roughly 100mm intervals. Place the cable ties
around the fuel and brake lines as well as the rear
loom. If you are fitting an electronic speedo, there
will also be a cable to the sensor in the tunnel.

Please refer to Raw’s separate instructions provided with the wiring loom for making connections to
electrical components.
Flyscreen

Estimated time: 1-2 days

This section also covers fitting two pieces of angled aluminium for the bonnet.

Tools Parts
File, emery paper, 240+ wet and dry Masking tape
G-clamps Angled aluminium
6+8mm allen keys Three-sided aluminium for windscreen channel
13mm spanner/socket Rubber trim and seal for windscreen
Pop rivet gun Windscreen or fly screen
Electric drill with 4mm, 8mm drill bits Pop rivets

What to do Photos
If fitting a fly screen (i.e. not a full windscreen),
round the top corners and all exposed edges of the
perspex screen. Use a file followed by emery paper
and finish off with a fine grade wet and dry (240+).
All sharp edges must be radiused to 2.5mm
according to SVA.

Two aluminium windscreen uprights are supplied in

the kit. These are angled, but may need trimming a
little to fit your car. Drill and counter sink two 8mm
holes, which will mount the upright to the chassis.
There’s no definite measurements for the two holes,
but we’ve drilled them at 130mm and 330mm
intervals from the top of the upright.

Round the edges along the uprights and at the top to

comply with SVA (2.5mm radius). Finish off with
a brushed aluminium effect using a fine wire brush
attached to an electric drill.

Optional Extra: the uprights can be fitted with a

rubber trimming to tidy the edge of the car. The
additional photo here shows some trimming fitted,
which also runs along the engine bay chassis rail.
This should be siliconed in place and temporarily
held by masking tape after fitting the uprights to
ensure it seals in place.
Place the uprights along the chassis and mark two
holes for drilling into it. When marking through the
countersunk holes in the upright, angle the drill or
punch slightly towards the front of the car. Start
with a 4mm hole and finish with 8mm. Fit the allen
key bolts and 13mm nylock nuts to secure the
windscreen upright.
 What to do Photos
Cut two lengths of angled aluminium to fit along the
engine bay chassis rail. This will hold the bonnet in
place and runs from the base of the windscreen
upright to the mount for the headlights. The
aluminium must not run alongside the headlight
mount as the nose cone will not fit. The length of
aluminium should be approximately 780mm.
Cut a diagonal section out of each piece of angle
aluminium so that it fits flush with the base of the
windscreen upright. You may be able to slide the
angled aluminium underneath the windscreen
upright, then mark the section to cut.
Drill 4mm holes in the angled aluminium for pop
riveting it to the chassis. Clamp the angled
aluminium to the chassis and also leave a clamp in
place on the side of the panelwork. Rubber
trimming can be placed between the angled
aluminium and chassis (optional extra). Drill 4mm
holes into the chassis and start pop rivetting from
the outer sections of the angled aluminium. Drill
one hole at a time and fit a pop rivet.
Mounting the base of the fly screen or windscreen
uses a windscreen channel made from a length of
three-sided angled aluminium. Cut this to length and
trial fit into position. Make a note of the pop rivets
in place underneath on the top of the scuttle, then
mark three more holes for mounting the windscreen
channel. Make sure the windscreen channel is flush
at the front with the scuttle panel. Drill three 4mm
then 8mm holes into the windscreen channel, refit it
and mark the holes for the top of the scuttle panel.
Drill the same sized holes into the top of the scuttle
panel. Bolt in place with 6mm allen key bolts. Fit
some rubber trim (supplied in kit) in between the
channel and scuttle. It may need trimming if the
allen key bolts obstruct.
Take the fly screen, cut and fit the windscreen
rubber for the base. Measure and cut the rubber
required for the sides of the screen and fit. Use a
little oil if necessary to squeeze the rubber into the
windscreen channel. Use a rubber hammer to knock
it into place. Only hit along the top edge of the
screen.

Windscreen conversion and fitting

The following instructions apply to fitting a windscreen when building the Striker and converting from a fly screen
Warning – handle the windscreen with care. There may be some sharp edges which will cut into your skin.

What to do Photos
Fit the windscreen surround in position. Measure
the height of the windscreen, then measure the gap
between the top of the windscreen surround and
the top of the scuttle. The windscreen sits
approximately 10mm inside the windscreen
surround on screen rubbers, so you will probably
find the windscreen surround is too high.
Calculate how much needs cutting off the ends of
the windscreen surround, but don’t cut it yet.

If you are converting from a fly screen, you

should have a couple of uprights which can be
used to mark the correct angle for the bottom of
the windscreen surround. If not, estimate the angle
to cut each bottom section of the surround and
finish off with a file.

Locate the sides of the windscreen surround with

two M6 bolts on each side. If you are converting
from a fly screen, use the old uprights as a guide
and use the existing holes in the chassis. If you are
fitting a windscreen when building the Striker,
mark and drill two holes in the side of the
windscreen (off the car), then fit the windscreen
surround and drill two holes on each side through
the chassis.
Don’t fit the windscreen yet. If you are fitting
doors, measure up and fit the door hinges on the
sides of the windscreen surround. As a guide, fit
the lower hinge 40mm from the top of the scuttle
and the upper hinge 220mm up from here. Fit
masking tape and mark the holes for mounting the
hinges. Make sure the hinges are flush to the rear
corner of the windscreen surround. This will
ensure the doors don’t foul the windscreen
surround when opened. Drill 4mm holes and tap
them. Fit suitable short bolts so they don’t go too
far and foul the windscreen when fitted.

Measure the length of the sides and top of the

windscreen, then cut an oversized length of
windscreen rubber and fit it. Apply windscreen
cleaner to help fit the rubber. Don’t use liquid
detergent.

Use a rubber hammer to tap around the screen

rubber and make sure it’s properly seated.

With the windscreen rubber fitted, cut the ends so

they are short of the end of the windscreen by
10mm (the height of the bottom windscreen
rubber.
Fit the windscreen into the windscreen surround,
applying lots of window cleaner to help. Turn the
windscreen and surround upside down on some
thick cardboard and use a rubber hammer to force
the windscreen into place. Only hit the edge of the
windscreen.

Fit the surround and windscreen onto the car. Try

fitting the bottom windscreen rubber onto the
windscreen before fitting. Use a rubber hammer to
hit the top edge of the windscreen surround and
correctly seat it. Use lots of window cleaner to
help.

Doors

Make sure the hinges for the windscreen surround

have been fitted (see previous section) before
completing the following steps.
Trial fit the GRP doors to see if they need
trimming. Decide how you are going to retain
each door (e.g. pop rivet or strap).
Fit the door side of the hinges onto the hinges on
the windscreen surround. Trial fit the door and
measure up one hole for each hinge on the door.
Remove the door, drill the two holes (4mm) and
loosely bolt the hinges in place. Trial fit the door
again making sure it fits flush, then mark the
remaining 4mm holes. Remove the door and
hinges, then drill the holes.

The poly-carbon for the door glass is supplied pre-

cut. You will need to measure up and drill a series
of 3mm holes through the poly-carbon and edge of
the door to bolt the two together. Use suitable
 short length bolts so the ends of the threads don’t
catch the passenger or driver.

Windscreen wipers and washer bottle

Use a British Leyland style Lucas wiper motor, cable, sleeving and two wheel boxes found on anything from a Mini
to an MGB and Morris Minor. The motor with a 90-degree sweep is better for the Striker. Some motors have a
larger 110-degree sweep, which may result in the wipers swiping too far across the windscreen.

Removal of a wiper motor, cable, sleeving and wheel boxes is usually quite straightforward. The wiper motor is
generally located with a strap, that can be reused on the Striker. If removing from a vehicle, undo a 17mm nut where
the cable sleeving feeds into the wiper motor. Remove any wipers that are fitted, then the wiper motor and cable can
be removed leaving the sleeving and wheel boxes behind. A large external nut (usually 17mm) retains each wheel
box. Once undone, the wheel boxes and sleeving can be removed.

The sleeving will probably need to be altered to fit the Striker, although Raw can supply new sleeving. The ends of
the sleeving where they sit inside the wheel boxes should be flared to help retain them.

Make sure the wheel boxes spin freely. Apply WD40 to loosen them and grease the large flat cog underneath.
Remove the top plate on the wiper motor (6.5mm bolts), clean inside and apply fresh grease.

When measuring up and fitting the wiper system to the Striker, aim to keep the cable and sleeving as straight as
possible. This will help reduce any friction as the cable moves, in turn ensuring the wipers move faster.

Secure the wiper motor to the underneath of

the passenger side scuttle using a suitable
strap often fitted to most BL cars. The strap is
usually rubber coated and uses a rubber pad
as well. The wiper motor should be located
with the top of it facing the underneath of the
scuttle. The plug connection for the electrics
will be easier to access in this position.
Drill two 14mm holes in the scuttle to locate
the wheel boxes. The first hole should be
17cm from the offside windscreen edge. The
second hole should be 37.5cm from the
offside windscreen edge. Both holes should
be 4cm below the bottom edge of the
windscreen surround. However, these figures
are only a guide. Use your wipers (arms and
blades) to calculate a suitable position for the
wheel boxes, making sure the blades will
sweep over a sufficient area of the
windscreen. Also, make sure the bonnet can
still be fitted.

After drilling the holes for the wheel boxes,

measure up the lengths of sleeving required
for the cable. Trial fit the wiper motor, cable,
sleeving and wheel boxes. You may find it
easier to fit everything together first, then fit
it into the Striker.

Fit a switch to the dashboard for the wiper

motor, then connect a live feed to it and onto
the motor. Also connect an earth to the motor.
Test the motor without any wipers fitted, then
calculate the correct position of them.
Raw supply a washer bottle kit comprising a
bottle and motor, plastic pipework and single
jet with two outlets. Fit the washer bottle in a
suitable location such as in front of the
passenger footwell (engine bay side). Make
sure it is securely located on the supplied
bracket. Route the plastic pipework up
through the scuttle and into the rear of the
dashboard. Fit a rubber grommet where the
pipework runs through the scuttle. Drill a
suitable hole in the scuttle between the
wheelboxes and fit the washer jet. Finally, fit
a switch, live feed and earth to operate the
washer. Test the washer with windscreen
wash in the bottle – do not test it empty as it
may damage the washer motor.
Engine, Gearbox and Ancillaries

Notes:-
Fit the engine and gearbox together
Remove any ancillaries for more space.
Remove the front coilovers if necessary for more space, especially for large engines such as the Ford Pinto.
Fit masking tape to the chassis to avoid damaging it.
If you are fitting a reconditioned gearbox, check the oil level. Such gearboxes are usually delivered empty
of oil.

Tools Parts
Engine hoist Engine and gearbox
Electric drill with 4mm, 8mm and 10mm drill bits Two Engine mounts and rubber mounts
Trolley jack Gearbox mounts
Wooden blocks Masking tape
Radiator and fitting kit or angled aluminium
Electric cooling fan and fitting kit
Engine ancillaries – header tank, coil pack,
battery, fuel system, exhaust, alternator,
starter motor

What to do Photos
Make sure the engine mounts can be fitted to the
engine block. Also trial fit the bolts used to secure
the engine mounts into the block.
If you intend to use an engine hoist/crane to lower
the engine and gearbox into place, make sure any
axle stands positioned at the front of the chassis
will not obstruct.
Raise the engine with the gearbox attached. Lower
it into place, guiding the gearbox into the tunnel.
Place a trolley jack under the gearbox, then locate
and loosely fit the gearbox mount.
What to do Photos
Fit the engine mounts to the engine block. Obtain
two wooden blocks to the thickness of the rubber
mounts. Fit them between the mounts and chassis.
Check the gear lever is appropriately located, the
clutch fork and other moving parts won’t catch
anything. You may need to drill new holes into the
chassis for the gearbox mount. Holes will need to
be drilled for the engine mounts on the chassis
side.
Drill 4mm then 8mm and finally 10mm holes from
underneath the chassis, through the wooden blocks
and through the engine mounts. When drilling
from underneath, don’t drill too near to the chassis
rails as you won’t be able to fit the nuts for the
engine mounts. Drill the larger holes for the engine
mounts from above. Secure with a long bolt. Drill
any gearbox mounts and locate with bolts.
Place a block of wood underneath the sump and
raise the engine. Remove the wooden blocks
underneath the engine mounts and fit the rubber
mounts. Loosely fit the washers and nuts for the
mounts, remove the trolley jack and tighten nuts
and bolts for the engine and gearbox mounts.
Mount the radiator using angled lengths of
aluminium (20mm wide x 40mm lengths at top,
40mm wide x 150mm lengths at bottom).
Depending on the type of radiator you are fitting,
there may be holes or pegs in it to fix it to the
aluminium. Set aside 2-3 hours to complete this.
Top mount
Make sure the nose cone can be fitted with the
radiator in place and the hose connections are not
obstructed by the chassis.

Bottom mount
Fit the cooling fan onto the radiator. Depending on
the type of fan you are fitting, it can usually be
located with plastic pins fitted through the cooling
fins of the radiator. The fan shown here has been
bolted to an aluminium bracket that is in turn
mounted to a piece of angled aluminium running
along the full width of the radiator and mounted to
the bottom mounts (see previous step if you’re
confused by this).
Make sure the cooling fan is mounted as close as
possible to the radiator, but ensure the blades of
the fan do not catch anything when rotated.
What to do Photos
Oil the front of the propshaft and slide into place.
Tighten the bolts to the diff.

Header tank – if fitting Raw’s aluminium header

tank, fit this to the scuttle panel. Drill two holes
through the top and bottom mounting flanges. Pop
rivet to the scuttle panel at the base and bolt in
place at the top.

Toyota 16v Coolant hoses:–

Rad top hose - make up a set of hoses to run from
the top of the radiator to the connection at the front
of the engine (usually includes a temperature
sender as well). Include a bleed connection.
Bottom hose – use as much metal tubing as
possible with bends made fro hosing to connect the
bottom hose to the rear of the water pump.

Connection from rear of water pump to radiator

bottom hose.
Toyota 20v coolant hoses – use Raw’s fitting kit to
plumb the top and bottom radiator connections to
the rear of the engine.
What to do Photos
Battery – a universal battery mount/clamp can be
purchased from stockists such as Halfords and
Unipart. Otherwise, cut two pieces of angled
aluminium as a base for the battery, then cut two
lengths of thin aluminium to make a clamp. Mount
the battery on the scuttle panel, making sure you
leave enough space for other ancillaries.

Coil pack – if your engine requires a coil pack, this

can be mounted on the scuttle panel between the
battery and brake master cylinder. Make sure it
won’t foul the reservoir for the brake master
cylinder. Holes can be drilled through the scuttle
panel to mount the coil pack, but make sure there
are no wires underneath to drill into.

Fit any remaining ancillaries to the engine

including inlet manifold, carbs/fuel injection
system (see next section on Fuel system for further
help), alternator, starter motor and distributor (if
applicable)
Clutch cable – If you are fitting a Ford Type 9
gearbox, run the clutch cable forward of the
offside engine mount and round to the clutch fork.
Run the sleeving and cable through the
bellhousing and tighten both nuts. Slot the end of
the cable through the hole in the clutch fork and
ensure it’s secure.
What to do Photos

Fuel system
What to do Photos
Dell ‘Orto carburettors – using Raw’s twin carb kit,
fit the manifold, carbs and linkage. Run the twin
throttle cables from the accelerator pedal around the
engine bay and to the throttle linkage. Route the two
cables through the tubing and secure to the linkage.

20-valve throttle bodies – the throttle linkage is

already fitted to the throttle bodies and adjusted. Use
a bicycle brake cable to run from the throttle pedal
direct to the linkage.

Bike engines – Raw can supply engine mounts for a

variety of bike engines including the Suzuki
Hayabusa, Yamaha R1 and Honda Fireblade. The
engine mounts are fitted to the chassis in the same
way as described in this build manual for the Toyota
engine – i.e. fit the mounts to the engine, trial fit and
mark where the mounts should be fitted to the
chassis.
Fuel pump and regulator – see a separate section
after petrol tank and fitting rear bodywork.

Exhaust manifold and system

Cutting a hole in the aluminium panelling for the exhaust manifold to fit through is a scary prospect.
Unfortunately, a template cannot be produced for hole cutting as the exact positioning of the hole is
dependent on the position of the engine. The following instructions can be applied to all engines where a
hole needs to be cut in the aluminium panelling. Take your time and keep checking your measurements.

What to do Photos
If the exhaust manifold can be split, start with the
centre pipes. Measure the distance from the
engine to the aluminium panelling, then compare
this measurement to the manifold to see where the
pipes will need to exit through the aluminium.
Use pieces of cardboard to help. Drill a small
4mm hole in the aluminium side panel where you
calculate the manifold will need to exit, then
enlarge it with larger drills and a nibbler, hole
cutter or pair of tin snips.
What to do Photos
Gradually enlarge the hole to accommodate all the
manifold pipes. Be generous with the size of the
hole. When the engine moves the manifold may
foul the aluminium, so ensure there’s a gap
between the side panel and manifold pipes.

Fit the y-piece, 4 into 1, or whatever your system

is supplied with, then the exhaust silencer. Use
blocks of wood to support the exhaust system and
measure up the location of any mounting brackets.

Pop rivet a mounting bracket for the silencer to

the underneath of the chassis. Bolt through the
floor for additional support. Mount the silencer to
the bracket using a rubber bush.

The larger bore exhaust system from Raw

requires two mounts. Both mounts are supplied by
Raw.
Lambda sensors can also be supplied by Raw for
the 20-valve Toyota engine and are fitted as
shown.
Nose Cone, Petrol Tank and Rear Bodywork

Estimated time required: 2 days

Tools Parts
Electric drill with 4mm, 6.5mm, 8mm drill bits and Nose cone, rear bodywork, angled aluminium
hole cutter (size dependent on petrol tank sender
unit)
Angle grinder if excess needs to be removed from Handbrake cable joiner (if petrol tank float is too
diff long)
Junior hacksaw Masking tape, self tappers, various allen key bolts,
rubber insulation, marker pen, pop rivets
Clamps (long welding clamps are ideal for clamping Rear lights, number plate (or spare one for
the bodywork in place) measuring up), rear indicators, fog light
Tape measure
Jigsaw, file and sandpaper

What to do Photos
Cut out the grille in the nose cone (unless you
asked Raw to do this for you) using a jigsaw and
clean up the cut with a file and/or sandpaper.
For additional cooling, drill some 50mm holes in
the underneath of the nose cone.
What to do Photos
Trial fit the nose cone and mark one hole in each
side of the angled aluminium to secure the cone.
Cut 6.5mm holes in each side. Refit the nose cone
and drill through it.

Drill two further 6.5mm holes on each side of the

nose cone to mount two 6mm allen key bolts and
nuts through the angled aluminium on the front
edges of the chassis.

Petrol tank – the tank is retained with two straps, a

strengthening bar and the bolts for the lower inner
rear wishbones. A flat piece and andled piece of
aluminium must be fitted to the top back of the
tank to attach the rear bodywork.

Petrol tank IRS – Cut an angled piece of

aluminium 50cm in length. Measure up and drill
two holes to fit to the lower inner rear wishbone
bolts. Don’t fully tighten the bolts until the
suspension is under load.

Check that the rear of the diff won’t foul the tank
when fitted. The rear mounts, which are not used,
may obstruct the tank. If this is the case, trim them
with an angle grinder and clean up any sharp
edges from the cut.
What to do Photos
Take the petrol tank sender and check the length
of the float rod. If it’s longer than the height of the
tank, you may want to shorten it so that the fuel
gauge will read empty when the tank is empty. By
making the length of the rod a little shorter than
the height of the tank, an empty gauge reading will
ensure there is still some fuel remaining. To
shorten the float rod, cut it and rejoin it using a
joiner (like one used for a handbrake cable). Some
float rods can be dismantled from the float,
shortened and refitted.
Cut a hole in the tank to mount the sender unit.
Start with a 4mm hole and finish with a suitable
hole cutter to ensure the float can be inserted and
the top of the sender unit fitted over the hole. Use
a vacuum cleaner to remove any debris from
inside the tank. Make sure the hole you drill is not
too close to the baffles underneath the filler neck.
If the sender unit gets caught on the baffles a false
reading will be given on the fuel gauge, you’ll run
out of petrol and look very silly pushing the car to
a petrol station.

Fit some masking tape over the hole in the petrol

tank. Fit the rubber gasket over the hole and mark
the holes for mounting the sender unit. Drill 4mm
holes and fit the sender with self tappers.

Turn the petrol tank upside down and drill three

8mm holes in the angled aluminium welded onto
the base. These holes will be used to bolt the base
of the tank to the angled aluminium bolted to the
lower wishbones.
What to do Photos
Remove the angled aluminium and wind out the
bolts in the lower wishbones. Fit the tank and drill
one 8mm hole in each corner of the chassis and
through to the aluminium edges on the side of the
tank. Locate with allen key bolts. Underneath, refit
the angled aluminium to the lower wishbones. Use
a marker pen to mark for drilling holes into the
angled aluminium through the three holes in the
aluminium edge on the tank. Remove the tank and
angled aluminium. Drill three 8mm holes into the
angled aluminium.
Fit rubber insulation over any mounting holes in
the tank. SVA rules state that insulation must be
fitted between the tank and chassis where it’s
mounted. Finally, after removing and trial fitting
the petrol tank over several evenings, fit it and
walk away.

Don’t forget to fit the strengthening bar for the

tank. This is located with two bolts through the
chassis and is used to fit the two retaining straps
for the tank.

LIVE AXLE – The petrol tank for a live axle I

retained with vertical strips of angled aluminium
as shown here.
What to do Photos
REAR BODYWORK
Fit the rear wheels and lower the rear of the car to
the ground. Place a spirit level on the top of the
roll bar to see if the car is level. Measure the
ground clearance at the rear corner of the chassis,
forward of the rear wheel. It should be 5.75 inches
or 146mm. Adjust the bottom spring seat and
locking nut to attain the correct ground clearance.
Bounce on the rear of the chassis to help settle the
coilovers.

Make sure the rear is level (use a spirit level), then

you’re ready to fit the rear bodywork. Start by
protecting the rollbar with masking tape wrapped
around the sides.

Carefully trial fit the rear bodywork. Use a trolley

jack and block of wood at the rear to support the
bodywork. You may need to trim the bodywork
around the rollbar and where it meets the chassis
side.

Measure and adjust the wheel clearance at the

sides then clamp the sides of the bodywork at the
front onto the chassis or aluminium paneling. Use
the trolley jack to raise or lower the rear of the
bodywork to obtain a sufficient amount of wheel
clearance.
What to do Photos
Cut four pieces of angled aluminium 46cm each in
length. Pop rivet two pieces together to form a
mounting panel for the bodywork to the chassis.
Place rubber trim between the pieces if desired.
Round the edges or cut at an angle.

Cut one 85cm length of 25mmx75mm angled

aluminium and one 95cm length. Mount the 85cm
length onto the rear chassis rail, just in front of the
petrol tank. Cut an 8mm hole in the centre of this
aluminium, feed the wiring through for the petrol
tank sender unit and number plate light. Fit a
grommet into the hole to protect the wires (also to
comply with SVA).

Refit the rear bodywork, gently clamp in place and

support at the rear with a trolley jack and block of
wood. Fit the second 95cm length of
25mmx75mm angled aluminium onto the first
length making sure it fits flush to the inside rear of
the bodywork. Mark around where it will fit. You
may also need to cut out a section to avoid
catching the wiring for the petrol tank sender and
number plate light.
Remove the rear bodywork and pop rivet the 95cm
angled aluminium in place. Position a number
plate in the centre of the rear of the chassis. Drill
four 6mm holes into the vertical section of the
angled aluminium within the area of the number
plate. These holes will be used to bolt the rear
bodywork in place.

Refit the rear bodywork and gently clamp in place.

Support the rear with a trolley jack and block of
wood. Fit the two pieces of 46cm double-angled
aluminium. Bolt to the bodywork (use allen key
bolts and fit nuts from within the wheel arches) by
drilling three 8mm holes (start with 4mm).
What to do Photos
Bolt the side of the bodywork onto the side of the
aluminium with allen key bolts by drilling three
8mm holes (start with 4mm). Avoid drilling into
the chassis.

Drill four holes from inside the rear bodywork

through the angled aluminium. Place a block of
wood on the outside of the bodywork to drill into
and avoid chipping the GRP when the drill bit
comes through. Fit the two outer allen key bolts
then pop rivett the two pieces of 46cm double-
angled aluminium to the chassis (5x4mm holes).
Fit the remaining two bolts at the rear of the
bodywork to hold it in place.

Three piece rear bodywork – if you are fitting a

three piece rear body, fit the wings onto the rear
tub first before fitting al three parts to the chassis.

Measure up for the rear registration plate. Use a

spirit level to make sure it’s level, but also ensure
the rear of the car is level by placing a spirit level
on the rollbar. Drill two 6mm holes for (start with
4mm drill bit) mounting the rear number plate.
Rear light SVA Rules
Light Maximum distance from Minimum distance apart Minimum height
outside
Fog (1) On centre line or to N/A 250mm.
offside. Minimum
100mm from stop lamp
unless in cluster
Indicator (2) 480mm 500mm 350mm
Stop lamps (2) N/A 400mm 350mm
Reflectors (2) 400mm 600mm 350mm

What to do Photos
Measure up and drill holes for the rear lights. If using
Raw’s rear light cluster units, these can be mounted
through the angled aluminium behind the bodywork.
Connect the appropriate wires to the lights.

Measure up for the rear fog light. Do NOT mount

this below the bodywork as it will fail SVA. Drill the
appropriate holes and mount. Connect the
appropriate wires to the fog light.

Fuel Pump
Fuel pump – the fuel pump must be rubber
mounted to the chassis. If it’s solid mounted, the
noise from it vibrating through the chassis will
drive you nuts. Use two rubber bushes and a
mounting panel such as a piece of flat or angled
aluminium to mount the fuel pump to the chassis.
Make sure you avoid moving parts such as the
diffs on the IRS Striker.
Make sure the fuel pump is earthed. With it rubber
mounted you will need to run a wire from one side
of the rubber mount to the other to ensure the fuel
pump is earthed to the chassis.

Route the fuel lines to the fuel pump and p-clip

them to the chassis rails.

If you are fitting carburettors, a fuel pressure

regulator must be fitted. Plumb this into the fuel
line near the carbs and clip in place. Run a fuel
line and T-piece to the carbs. Make sure the fuel
lines will not foul moving parts such as the
steering column.
Rear tonneau – Measure up and cut the holes for
top seat belt mounts. Drill five 4mm holes through
the tonneau and into the chassis, then fit popper
retaining cups with 3mm diameter pop rivets.
Fit poppers and retaining cups around the rear of
the bodywork to secure the rear tonneau. Drill
carefully into the GRP and be gentle when fitting
the pop rivets to avoid cracking the fibreglass.
Keep the tonneau pulled tight (an exra pair of
hands will help here).
Dashboard

Estimated time required to fit gauges and connect dashboard – 1 day

SVA Rules
Everything outside of a radius of 127mm from the outer edge of the steering wheel must not protrude
greater than 9mm and must have a radiused edge. If you are not using stalk switches, try to mount switches
such as indicators, lights, horn and wipers within the area of the steering wheel.

Tools Parts
Jigsaw or air saw Dashboard
File and sand paper Dials
Electric drill, various drill bits (4-10mm) and hole
cutters (50+80mm)
Test meter

What to do Photos
Use a marker pen to mark the location of the
gauges and switches on the dashboard. Before
cutting these holes, cut a small section out of the
dashboard to fit the steering column through. Try
to fit the dashboard to see how much more needs
to be cut away. Use a jigsaw or air saw to cut the
dashboard and finish off with a file and sand
paper.

Mark the holes in the side of the dashboard for

mounting it to the brackets on the dashboard
uprights of the chassis. Drill 4mm holes through
the dashboard and 6.5mm holes in the

Mark the gauges and switches for the dashboard.

Cut out using appropriate hole cutters. Fit the
gauges and place the dashboard on a bench. Wire
up the earth, battery and live connections, leaving
one connection to feed into these. Tie wrap the
wires and test them for continuity to make sure
there are no loose contacts.
Fit the remaining switches adhering to SVA rules
if the car is going to be road legal. These are as
follows:-
All objects within 127mm radius of the edge of the
steering wheel are exempt from the SVA sharp
edge test. All other items must be radiused by
2.5mm.
Gear lever, speedo, tunnel panel, handbrake

Tools Parts
Hole Cutter Gear lever
Marker pen Passenger side tunnel panel
Pop rivets and gun Electronic speedo sensor (if applicable)
Gear oil (if gearbox is empty or needs topping up)
Handbrake
Rivet nuts or nuts and bolts for mounting handbrake
Rear bulkhead

NOTES: if you are fitting a reconditioned gearbox, check the oil level.

Gear lever – if you are using a Ford Type 9

gearbox, the standard Ford Sierra gear lever can
be used. Cut the stick of the gear lever down to
suit.

Electronic speedo sensor – if you are using a

magnetic speedo sensor, the magnet(s) can be
mounted/glued to the propshaft, then brackets
made and attached to the gear lever mount for the
sensor.
Check the oil level in the gearbox and fill if
necessary.
Fit the passenger tunnel panel. If access to the
gearbox oil plug is tight from underneath the car,
cut a hole in the tunnel and fit an access panel.
Pop rivet the passenger tunnel in place. The holes
for the panel and chassis rails will have already
been drilled by you, so place pop rivets in all the
holes to check they line up. Also fit the bolts for
the diff and inner seat belt mount. Use clamps to
secure the tunnel panel to the chassis rails. Start
fitting the pop rivets at the corners and work
inwards. Make sure the tunnel panel is always
flush with the chassis rail it’s attached to.

Handbrake – the handbrake is mounted to a

chassis rail behind the passenger tunnel. Draw a
line on the tunnel from the bottom handbrake
cable pivot to calculate the location of this chassis
rail.

Offer up the handbrake and mark the two

mounting holes. Drill holes through the tunnel and
through the chassis rail. The handbrake can be
mounted using rivet-nuts and bolts or just nuts
and bolts. Fit spacers (washers and larger nuts),
particularly on the top bolt to prevent the
handbrake fouling the tunnel side.

Handbrake switch – A micro-switch needs to be

mounted next to the handbrake so that the switch
is on when the handbrake is off. The switch can
be tie wrapped in place as the surrounding metal
to mount it to is hard and difficult to drill. The
microswitch earths when mounted, but will
probably not achieve a god earth if tie-wrapped.
Solder a wire and ring connector onto the
microswitch, then pop rivet the ring connector to
the tunnel side.
Handbrake cable – this can be fitted before or
after the fitting of the rear bulkhead (next
section). Start by routing the two handbrake
cables from the rear brakes through into the
passenger side seating area. Route the cables
through the sleeving provided in the chassis.

Attach the two ends of the handbrake cable to the

adjusters provided in the kit. The ends of the cable
are retained with small allen key bolts. A suitable
allen key is supplied in the kit.

Attach the cable from the handbrake lever to the

front of the adjuster.

Attach the cable to the handbrake lever, feeding it

through the guide that’s part of the chassis. Some
adjustment of the handbrake cable will be
required to set it up. The cable may pull out of the
adjuster if the small allen key bolts have not been
sufficiently tightened. Despite these allen key
bolts look small and fragile, they must be fully
tightened to retain the cable.
Rear Bulkhead

Rear bulkhead – this can be fitted in a number of

ways:-
1. Bend the left and right edges of the rear
bulkhead and fit some angled aluminium
to the chassis to mount the bulkhead to.
2. Measure up and cut the excess off the left
and right edges, then slot the bulkhead in
place and pop rivet, self tap or Velcro it
to the chassis. Fit some rubber edging to
the left and right edges of the bulkhead to
seal it.
NOTES
If you are fitting a removable bulkhead, reverse the
lower front wishbone bolt so the bolt faces
rearwards. This will save on drilling a hole in the
bulkhead for the end of the bolt.
For IRS – remove the bolts into the side of the diff
to fit the bulkhead, then refit once the bulkhead is
in place.
Use a hammer and chisel to reshape the edges on
the tunnel panels to enable the rear bulkhead to fit
flush.
Clamp the bulkhead in place and use a wooden
hammer and block of wood to bend the bottom
edge over the chassis rail.

Mark from the rear of the bulkhead, the chassis

rails where it will be fitted to. You can then
remove the bulkhead and drill any holes required.

Fit rubber edging to the left and right edges to

achieve a seal.
Tunnel top (supplied in kit) – measure up and cut a
suitable hole for the gear lever.

Fit rubber trim to the edge of the tunnel top. This

is required for SVA. Make sure the tunnel top with
its trimming covers the edges of the tunnel sides.
These sharp edges must be covered for SVA.

Secure the tunnel top with strips of velcro. Don’t

fit screws or pop rivets as this will fail SVA.
Wings, Headlights, Indicators and Mirrors

Tools Parts
Electric drill with 4-8mm drill bits Two front wings
Spanners 10-17mm GRP or GRP based filler
Two front wing mounted indicators
Two headlights
Side mirrors
Two side repeater indicators

What to do Photos
Front wings – exact measurements for the
mounting of the front wings depends upon wheel
and tyre sizes. Make sure the wheels and tyres can
be fitted prior to finally fitting the front wings.
From underneath each wing, make a platform from
GRP to mount the wing onto the wing stay. Drill
one hole through each wing stay and wing and
secure with a nut and bolt. Use an allen key head
for the bolt (exposed on top of the wing) to pass
SVA.

Fit the indicator onto the top of the wing and route
the wires through to the loom. As a guide for
fitting the indicator, fit a strip of masking tape
down the centre line of the top of the wing.
What to do Photos
Headlights – if using Cibie headlights, these fit
straight onto the available mountings. Tighten the
17mm nut, but this will need to be slackened later
to adjust the headlight beam. Feed the wires from
the headlight through the hole in the aluminium
panelling and connect to the main loom.

SVA – fit plastic nut caps over the 17mm nuts.

Side mirrors and side repeaters – these can be

bolted through the aluminium panelling. For SVA,
a side repeater may not be sufficient. A wing
mounted indicator that can be seen from the side
will be needed. Equally, the side mirrors must
provide a view over the rear wings. Raw’s side
mirrors shown here pass SVA.

Bonnet – trial fit and trim. Secure with two bonnet

clips at each side. The bonnet is oversized, so the
bottom side edges need to be trimmed accordingly.