Riginal Rticles A Study of The Effects of Machine Gauge and Some Knit Structures On The Physical Properties of Weft Knitted Fabrics
Riginal Rticles A Study of The Effects of Machine Gauge and Some Knit Structures On The Physical Properties of Weft Knitted Fabrics
Riginal Rticles A Study of The Effects of Machine Gauge and Some Knit Structures On The Physical Properties of Weft Knitted Fabrics
ORIGINAL ARTICLES
A Study of the Effects of Machine Gauge and Some Knit Structures on the Physical
Properties of Weft Knitted Fabrics
Fashion Design Department, Design and Art College, King Abdul Aziz University, Jeddah, kingdom of Saudi
Arbia
ABSTRACT
In this study, an experimental work is presented to determine the effects of some knit structures, i.e. plain
(Single Jersey), 1 × 1 Rib and Interlock and the knitting machine gauge on the physicals properties of 100%
cotton weft knitted fabrics. Dimension stability, fabric stiffness, bursting strength and air permeability were
investigated. Fabric dimension stability was characterized by the fabric shrinkage. Dimension stability and
stiffness of weft knitted fabrics were measured in the wale and course directions. Analysis of variance is used to
detect the significance effects of such parameters on knitted fabric properties. Regression analysis was also
conducted to derive the relationship between machine gauge and fabric properties at its different structures.
From the statistical analysis, it is confirmed that machine gauge and knit structures have a profound influence of
cotton weft knitted fabric properties.
Key words: Weft knitted fabrics, Single Jersey, Rib and Interlock knits, Dimension stability, Knitted fabric
properties.
Introduction
Knitted fabric is structure that is formed by the intermeshing of loop yarn (Denton & Daniels 2002). There
are two types of knitted fabric structure: weft knitted and warp knitted. Weft knitted fabrics is produced by a
system of interlocking loops in the weft direction. The loops are in horizontal courses with each course built on
top of the other and all the stitches in the course are made by one yarn. Warp knitted fabrics are produced by a
system of interlocking loops in the warp direction. Fabric is produced by several parallel yarns that form one
stitch for each yarn in each course. Each stitch in a course is made of different yarns (Gioello 1982).
Knitted fabric possesses high stretch and recovery, providing greater freedom of movement, shape retention
and tailored fit. Knitted fabrics also have relatively uneven surfaces, which make them feel more comfortable
than smooth-surfaced woven fabrics of similar fiber compositions. This effect results from the fact that fabric
that has uneven surfaces has less direct contact with the skin (Higgins & Anand, 2003).
Knit fabrics provide outstanding comfort qualities and have long been preferred as fabrics in many kinds of
clothing. Since knit fabrics are produced on different machines with different knit stitches and conditions to
create different patterns and fabric types, we expect them to have different qualities (Chen et al., 1992). The
commercial design of knitted garments is a process that shares many important characteristics with other types
of aesthetic design and engineering (Eckert and Stacey, 2003).
In apparel design and garment manufacturing, fabric characteristics are usually dictated by a specified end-
use. Understanding the relationship between the fabric end-use and fabric properties becomes fundamental for
classification, selection, search, and purchase control of apparel fabrics (Chen and Collier, 1997). Tactile (hand)
and appearance properties are very important in all classes of fabrics (Fuchs et al., 1993).
The bursting strength of knitted fabric is extremely important in many ways. The fabric should have
sufficient strength against forces acting upon it during dying, finishing and use. However, it is very difficult to
predict the bursting strength of knitted fabrics before performing bursting strength tests (Ertugrul and Ucar,
2000) It is showed that the effect of knit structures on the bursting strength of fabric is highly significant
(Kavuşturan, 2002).
The effects of various knit structures on the dimensional and/or physical properties of knitted fabrics have
been analyzed by many researchers (Nergis and Candan, 2006, Rangulam et al, 1993, Candan, 2000, and Çeken
2000).
Corresponding Author: Nagwa Ali Abou Nassif, Fashion Design Department, Design and Art College, King Abdul Aziz
University, Jeddah, kingdom of Saudi Arbia
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J. Appl. Sci. Res., 9(11): 5643-5649, 2013
In this study 100% cotton fabrics were knitted by three knit structures, i.e. Plain (Single Jersey), 1 ×1 Rib
and Interlock structures respectively. The general views of the knit structures used in this study were shown in
figure 1.
Plain is the base structure of ladies‟ hosiery, fully fashioned knitwear and single-jersey fabrics. Its use in
ladies‟ suiting is known as the "Jersey Lily" (see in Fig.1). Other names for plain include stockinet, whilst in the
USA the term "shaker stitch" is applied to it when knitted in a coarse gauge of about 31– 32 needles per inch
(25mm). The simplest rib fabric is 1 X 1 rib. The first rib frame was invented by Jedediah Strutt of Derby in
1755, which used a second set of needles to pick up and knit the sinker loops of the first set. It is now normally
knitted with two sets of latch needles. 1 X 1 rib is production of by two sets of needles being alternately set or
gated between each other. Relaxed 1 X 1 rib is theoretically twice the thickness and half the width of an
equivalent plain fabric, but it has twice as much width-wise recoverable stretch. In practice, 1 X 1 rib normally
relaxes by approximately 30 percent compared with its knitting width (see Fig. 1).
The interlock structure was knitted almost solely in cotton on 20 gauge (needles per inch) machines for
underwear, a typical weight being 5oz per square yard (170 g per Square meter) using 1/40s cotton, but from the
1950s onwards, 18 gauge machines were developed for knitting double-jersey for semi-tailored suiting because
the open-width fabric could be finished on existing equipment. As the machines became more versatile in their
capabilities, the range of structures became greater.
No. of needles per inch present in a needle bed of a knitting machine is called machine gauge for that
knitting machine. Selection of machine gauge depends upon the following: yarn count, fiber type, yarn twist,
yarn finished. In this study, each knit structure was knitting on knitting machine with three machine gauges, i.e.
22, 26 and 30 respectively. All fabric samples were weft knitted from yarns of count 30/1 Ne with twist
multiplier 3.4.
After having taken the samples off the machine, they were laid on a smooth and flat surface in atmospheric
condition (20 0C±2 and 65% RH ± 2) for 24 hours. After that the fabric samples were washed on a normal fabric
setting at averaging 40 oC. After that fabric samples were rinsed in cold water and were let to dry for 24 hours.
After washing, rinsing and drying, the studied fabric samples were fully conditioned for 24 hours in
standard atmosphere of 20 ± 2 oC and 65 ± 2% relative humidity, and then were tested for its physical and
mechanical properties. Fabric physical properties were tested since these properties would influence fabric
functional and comfort properties. In this study, fabric shrinkage, fabric stiffness, bursting strength and air
permeability were measured. Shrinkage and stiffness of weft knitted fabrics were tested in wale and course
directions. Bursting strength was measured according to ISO 13938-1, while air permeability was tested in
accordance with ISO 9237. Fabric stiffness was measured in accordance with ASTM standard D 1388.
The percentage shrinkage of the knitted fabric samples under study was calculated using the following
equation:
Statistical analysis:
The following statistical analyses were performed using SPSS version 15.
- Descriptive statistics were used to summarize and describe the difference of properties of sample fabrics.
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J. Appl. Sci. Res., 9(11): 5643-5649, 2013
Dimension stability:
In this study, dimension stability of knitted fabrics was characterized by fabric shrinkage in the wale and
course direction. The effects of knit structure and machine gauge on knitted fabric shrinkage in the wale and
course directions were depicted in figures 2 and 3. The analysis of variance results were listed in tables 1 and 2.
From the statistical analysis it is shown that knit structure and machine gauge have a profound influence on the
knitted fabric dimension stability (fabric shrinkage). It may be gleaned from the above figure that machine
gauge has a negative impact on the fabric shrinkage in both direction, i.e. in the wale and course direction. As
the machine gauge increases the fabric shrinkage decreases. This is because the increases of fabric firmness with
the increases in the machine gauge. It is also shown that in the wale direction the fabrics knitted from interlock
structure showed higher shrinkage whereas single jersey fabrics gave lower fabric shrinkage.
In the case of course direction, the fabric shrinkage has found to have the following order: Single jersey˃
Rib ˃ Interlock.
The regression models which correlate fabric shrinkage in the course direction with knitting machine gauge
for the different knit structures have the following form:
Fabric shrinkage, % (for single jersey)= -0.65 × gauge +5.9
Fabric shrinkage, % (for Rib)= -0.6 × gauge +4.7
Fabric shrinkage, % (for Interlock)= -0.75 × gauge +4.4
The statistical analysis proved that the coefficient of determinations of these models are 0.95, 0.99 and 0.99
for single jersey, rib and interlock respectively.
In the case of wale direction, the regression relationship between knitting machine gauge and the knitted
fabric shrinkage has the following form:
Fabric shrinkage, % (for single jersey)= -0.75 × gauge +5.2
Fabric shrinkage, % (for Rib)= -0.9 × gauge +6.8
Fabric shrinkage, % (for Interlock)= -1.3 × gauge +10.1
The coefficient of determination values for these models is 0.99, 0.99 and 0.97 for single jersey, rib and
interlock structures respectively.
2
22 26 30
Machine gauge
Fig. 2: Effect of knitting machine gauge on knitted fabric shrinkage in the course direction for different knit
structures
Table 1: Analysis of variance for the effects of knit structure and machine gauge on the knitted fabric shrinkage in the course direction
Source of
SS df MS F P-value F crit
Variation
Knit structure 4.428889 2 2.214444 124.5625 0.00025 6.944276
Machine gauge 2.668889 2 1.334444 75.0625 0.000674 6.944276
Error 0.071111 4 0.017778
Total 7.168889 8
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10
Fabric shrinkage, %
8
2
22 26 30
Machine gauge
Fig. 3: Effect of knitting machine gauge on knitted fabric shrinkage in the wale direction for different knit
structures.
Table 2: Analysis of variance for the effects of knit structure and machine gauge on the knitted fabric shrinkage in the wale direction.
Source of
SS df MS F P-value F crit
Variation
Knit structure 23.57556 2 11.78778 158.3433 0.000156 6.944276
Machine gauge 5.662222 2 2.831111 38.02985 0.002496 6.944276
Error 0.297778 4 0.074444
Total 29.53556 8
Bursting strength:
The relationship between knitting machine gauge and bursting strength of the knitted fabrics made from
different structures is depicted in figure 4. The statistical analysis listed in table 3 revealed that knit structure and
knitting machine gauge have a significant effect on the knitted fabric bursting strength at 0.01 significance level.
From figure 4 it is shown that machine gauge has a positive influence on knitted fabric bursting strength. An
increasing trend is detected, assuring that as the machine gauge increases the bursting strength of the knitted
fabrics increases.
It is also shown that there is significant difference between the fabric structures in relation to its bursting
strength. The bursting strength of the knitted fabrics was found to have the following order: Single jersey˃ Rib
˃ Interlock.
To predict the bursting strength of the different knitted fabrics at the different levels of knitting machine
gauges, the following regression models can be used:
Bursting strength, bar (for single jersey) = 5× gauge +20
Bursting strength, bar (for Rib) = 4× gauge +19
Bursting strength, bar (for Interlock) = 5.5 × gauge +16
The coefficient of determination values for these models is 1, 1 and 0.97 for single jersey, rib and interlock
structures respectively.
Jersey Rib Interlock
Brusting strength, bar
42
32
22
12
2
22 26 30
Machine gauge
Fig. 4: Effect of knitting machine gauge on knitted fabric Bursting strength for different knit structures
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J. Appl. Sci. Res., 9(11): 5643-5649, 2013
Table 3: Analysis of variance for the effects of knit structure and machine gauge on the knitted fabric bursting strength.
Source of
SS df MS F P-value F crit
Variation
Knit structure 18 2 9 10.8 0.024414 6.944276
Machine gauge 140.6667 2 70.33333 84.4 0.000536 6.944276
Error 3.333333 4 0.833333
Total 162 8
Fabric stiffness:
Stiffness is a property of a material to resist the deformation under stress. Knitted fabric stiffness in the
wale and course directions were measured throughout this study. The effects of knitting machine gauge on
knitted fabric stiffness in the wale and course directions for different knit fabric structures were plotted in
figures 5 and 6. The statistical analysis which reveals the effects of knit structure and machine gauge on the
knitted fabric stiffness in the wale and course directions were listed in tables 4 and 5. From the statistical
analysis it was found that both knit structure and machine gauge have a significant effect on the knitted fabric
stiffness in the wale and course directions at significant level 0.01.
62
52
42
32
22
12
2
22 26 30
Machine gauge
Fig. 5: Effect of knitting machine gauge on knitted fabric Stiffness in the course direction for different knit
structures
Table 4: Analysis of variance for the effects of knit structure and machine gauge on the knitted stiffness in the course direction.
Source of
SS df MS F P-value F crit
Variation
Knit structure 620.2222 2 310.1111 41.65672 0.002099 6.944276
Machine gauge 193.5556 2 96.77778 13 0.017778 6.944276
Error 29.77778 4 7.444444
Total 843.5556 8
52
42
32
22
12
2
22 26 30
Machine gauge
Fig. 6: Effect of knitting machine gauge on knitted fabric Stiffness in the wale direction for different knit
structures
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J. Appl. Sci. Res., 9(11): 5643-5649, 2013
Table 5: Analysis of variance for the effects of knit structure and machine gauge on the knitted stiffness in the wale direction
Source of
SS df MS F P-value F crit
Variation
Knit structure 112.8889 2 56.44444 92.36364 0.000449 6.944276
Machine gauge 182.8889 2 91.44444 149.6364 0.000174 6.944276
Error 2.444444 4 0.611111
Total 298.2222 8
From the above figures it is observed that machine gauge has a positive effect on the knitted fabric stiffness
in the wale and course directions. An increasing trend is detected confirming that as the machine gauge
increases the stiffness of fabrics knitted from different knit structures also increases. In the case of course
direction, fabrics knitted from single jersey have higher stiffness followed by those knitted from rib and
interlock structures respectively. The regression models which correlate stiffness of knitted fabrics to machine
gauge has the following linear models:
Fabric stiffness, mg (for single jersey) = 8.5× gauge +27.3
Fabric stiffness, mg (for Rib) = 4× gauge +26.3
Fabric stiffness, mg (for Interlock) = 4.5 × gauge +15
The coefficient of determination values for these models is 0.97, 0.97 and 0.96 for single jersey, rib and
interlock structures respectively.
In wale direction, fabrics knitted from interlock structures was found to have higher stiffness followed by
those knitted from rib and single jersey respectively. The relationship between machine gauge and knitted fabric
stiffness for different knit structures has the following linear forms:
Fabric stiffness, mg (for single jersey) = 6× gauge +24
Fabric stiffness, mg (for Rib) = 5× gauge +30.6
Fabric stiffness, mg (for Interlock) = 5.5 × gauge +33.6
The coefficient of determination values for these models is 1, 0.94 and 0.99 for single jersey, rib and
interlock structures respectively.
Air permeability:
The plot of air permeability against the machine gauge at different weft knitted structures was illustrated in
figure 7. The statistical analysis of the effects of the independent parameters on the knitted fabrics air
permeability was listed in table 6. From this table it is noticed that knitted fabric structure and machine gauge
has a significant influence on the air permeability. From figure 7 a decreasing trend was detected confirming
that as the machine gauge increased the air permeability of the knitted fabrics decreased significantly. Increasing
machine gauge from 22 to 30 leads to a reduction of the air permeability by 29, 26 and 14% for single jersey, rib
and interlock knitted fabrics structures. It is also apparent that at lower machine gauge, the weft knitted fabrics
of structure rib 1×1 has higher air permeability, while interlock knitted fabric structure showed the highest air
permeability at higher machine gauge.
Jersey Rib Interlock
Air permeabililty, cm3/cm2.sec
2500
2000
1500
1000
22 26 30
Machine gauge
Fig. 7: Effect of knitting machine gauge on knitted fabric Air permeability for different knit structures
Table 6: Analysis of variance for the effects of knit structure and machine gauge on the knitted fabrics air permeability
Source of
SS df MS F P-value F crit
Variation
Knit structure 18 2 9 10.8 0.024414 6.944276
Machine gauge 140.6667 2 70.33333 84.4 0.000536 6.944276
Error 3.333333 4 0.833333
Total 162 8
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J. Appl. Sci. Res., 9(11): 5643-5649, 2013
The statistical analysis proved that the regression relationships which correlate the air permeability of the
knitted fabrics with the machine gauge have the following linear forms:
Air permeability, (for single jersey) = -250× machine gauge +1967
Air permeability, (for Rib) = -300× machine gauge +2600
Air permeability, (for Interlock) = -150 × machine gauge +2367
The coefficient of determination values for these models is 0.98, 1 and 0.96 for single jersey, rib and
interlock structures respectively. The negative sign of the independent variable signifies the negative influence
of that parameter on the knitted fabric air permeability.
Conclusion:
The statistical analysis proved that physical properties of the weft knitted fabrics have been affected
significantly by the independent variables, namely knitting machine gauge and knitted fabric structures. The
following conclusion can be drawn:
- Dimension stability of knitted fabrics was characterized by fabric shrinkage in the wale and course
direction. It was noted that machine gauge has a negative impact on the fabric shrinkage in both direction. It is
also shown that in the wale direction the fabrics knitted from interlock structure showed higher shrinkage
whereas single jersey fabrics gave lower fabric shrinkage. In the case of course direction, the fabric shrinkage
has found to have the following order: Single jersey ˃ Rib ˃ Interlock.
- As the machine gauge increases the bursting strength of the knitted fabrics increases. The bursting
strength of the knitted fabrics was found to have the following order: Single jersey ˃ Rib ˃ Interlock.
- Stiffness of the knitted fabrics was measured in the wale and course direction. The statistical analysis
showed that stiffness of the knitted fabrics was significantly affected by the machine gauge and fabric structures.
It was found that machine gauge has a positive impact on the knitted fabric stiffness in the both direction. In the
case of course direction, fabrics knitted from single jersey have higher stiffness followed by those knitted from
rib and interlock structures respectively. Whereas in the wale direction, fabrics knitted from interlock structures
was found to have higher stiffness followed by those knitted from rib and single jersey respectively.
- For air permeability, an increasing trend was detecting assuring that as the knitting machine gauge
increases the air permeability decreases. It was found that rib structure was more permeable than other structures
at lower machine gauge, while in the case of higher machine gauge, interlock structures showed higher air
permeability than the other ones.
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