Study On The Tearing Behaviour of Woven Shirt
Study On The Tearing Behaviour of Woven Shirt
Study On The Tearing Behaviour of Woven Shirt
https://www.emerald.com/insight/0955-6222.htm
Abstract
Purpose – Occurrence of fabric rupture is a problem that can influence fabric performance during wear. In this
regard, fabric tearing resistance is considered by manufacturers and consumers and enhancing tear resistance
through optimization of related parameters is beneficial.
Design/methodology/approach – In this study, the tearing resistance of a series of shirting fabrics with
various weave patterns and weft densities were investigated by both static and dynamic tear test methods.
Moreover, the constituent yarn’s frictional and tensile behaviour was evaluated and their relation with tear
resistance was analysis.
Findings – According to the outcomes, the fabric firmness and density and friction of yarns affect the tear
resistance, reversely. However an improvement in yarn’s tenacity can raise the tear resistance.
Originality/value – In this study it was aimed to not only consider influence of both static and dynamic tear
test approach on the tearing performance of fabrics regarding their structural parameters, the impact of the
constituent’s yarn properties include tensile behaviour and friction coefficient on the tearing performance of
fabric considered, as well.
Keywords Tear resistance, Weave structure, Weave density, Yarn friction, Yarn tenacity
Paper type Research paper
1. Introduction
Determination of the tearing strength of a fabric and various factors which affect this
property have attracted the attention of many researchers during the past years, due to the
importance of tearing in the serviceability and efficiency of fabric in a variety of end-uses.
In a research, Teixeira et al. (1955) studied the effect of fabric and yarn structure on the
tearing behaviour of acetate woven fabrics, through tongue-tear test. It was determined that the
factors of fabric which affects the tearing behaviour can be listed as the reciprocal force required
to pull a yarn out of the fabric, the crimp level and crimp balance, the yarn spacing and cover
factor in the fabric, the deformability of the fabric in its own plane and the load-elongation curve
of the conditioned yarn (Teixeira et al., 1955). Turl (1956) compared the result of both tongue
(single rip) and trapezoid methods by using static and dynamic tests experimentally (Turl, 1956).
Abbott et al. (1971) studied the effect of the PVC plastisol coating on the woven fabric tearing
property. Plain weaves lost about 25% of their tearing strength on the average, twills about 60%
and baskets at least 70% (Abbott et al., 1971). Hamkins and Backer (1980), during a trapezoid
tear test, declared that the interactive relationship between yarn tensile properties and yarn
mobility are the basis of fabric tearing behaviour (Hamkins and Backer, 1980). Scelzo et al.
(1994a, b) developed a model according to the tongue tear method and based on the yarn pull-out,
fabric jamming, and stretching and yarn strength variation in order to predict the tearing
behaviour of fabric (Scelzo et al., 1994a, b). Nawaz et al. (2002) investigated the impact of the yarn
International Journal of Clothing
twist in both S and Z direction on the tearing strength of fabrics (Nawaz et al., 2002). Witkowska Science and Technology
and Frydrych (2005) probed the tearing resistance of fabrics that are utilized in the protective Vol. 33 No. 3, 2021
pp. 353-363
and work clothing and compared the result of tear strength obtained through various test © Emerald Publishing Limited
0955-6222
methods. It was found that the results of various tear resistance measurement methods are DOI 10.1108/IJCST-06-2020-0092
IJCST consistent (Witkowska and Frydrych, 2004, 2005). In an investigation by Mukhopadhyay et al.
33,3 (2006) it was found that ring spun yarn fabric shows higher tearing strength compared with
rotor spun yarn fabric (Mukhopadhyay et al., 2006). Dhamija and Chopra (2007) studied the
influence of yarn structure on the fabric tearing resistance in a way that fabric made of compact
spun yarn presents higher tear strength in comparison with fabric woven of ring spun yarns
(Dhamija and Chopra, 2007). Mousazadegan and Ezazshahabi (2017) examined the influence of
weave structure and weft yarn spinning systems on the total tearing energy of worsted fabrics,
354 in both grey and finished states. The results reveal that firm weave patterns reduce the tearing
energy. Furthermore, two-ply and single-ply ring yarns had highest and lowest tearing energy,
respectively. However, solo yarns had higher tearing energy than siro yarns (Mousazadegan and
Ezazshahabi, 2017). The relation between yarn count, twist multiplier and weave density and
fabric performance were evaluated by Teli et al. (2008) in the term of tensile, tear and bursting
resistance (Teli et al., 2008). Since the static tearing is a common reason of fabric rupture during
use, Witkowska and Frydrych (2008) tried to interpret the tear strength in fabric quality
evaluation (Witkowska and Frydrych, 2008). The effect of moisture on the tear strength of the
flocked fabric was examined by Bilisik et al. (2011), through measuring tear resistance of flocked
fabric in dry and wet condition (Bilisk et al., 2011). In a research by Triki et al. (2011), the tearing
resistance of plain and twill woven fabric were assessed by tongue and tensile central crack tear
tests method. It was found that tearing resistance is independent of the specimen shape (Triki
et al., 2011). Wang et al. (2011) developed an Finite Element Analysis (FEA) model to simulate the
tongue tearing process for a plain and twill fabric (Wang et al., 2011). Ezazshahabi et al. (2014),
studied the effect of worsted fabric’s typical industrial finishing process on the tearing resistance
of worsted fabrics by static tear test method. It was discovered that finishing process reduces the
tearing of fabrics considerably (Ezazshahabi et al., 2014). Since the tear strength of woven fabric
affects its serviceability considerably, Eryuruk and Kalaoglu (2015) presented that the tearing
resistance is related to the yarns mobility inside the fabric structure. The effect of various weave
patterns like warp rib, weft rib, rip stop and plain with different density on the tear resistance
investigated (Eryuruk and Kalaoglu, 2015). Finally, in 2007, Eltahan studied the impact of fabric
design on the tear resistance of heavy weight tent fabric in order to investigate the effect of fabric
tightness on the tear behaviour. Fabric tightness is changed in the term of weave pattern and
density (Eltahan, 2018).
In reviewing of the previous research works, it was made clear that the fabric structural
parameters and various yarns characteristics can affect the tearing behaviour of fabrics.
During the tearing phenomenon, the yarns encountered with tensile stress and frictional
force, simultaneously. In this regard, this study aims to investigate the relation of fabric’s
constituent yarn tensile and frictional behaviour with the tearing performance.
2. Experimental work
2.1 Materials
This study is assigned to investigate the impact of fabric structural characteristics and its
constituent yarn’s tensile and frictional properties on the tear strength of fabrics. To this end,
nine various shirting woven fabrics with different weave patterns and weft density are
utilized. 100% polyester multifilament yarns with a count of 100 denier and 100% cotton
yarns with a count of 30 Ne were applied as warp and weft yarns, respectively. The fabric’s
specifications are presented in Table 1.
Where:
ETear 5 tearing energy,
i 5 peak number,
Fimax 5 maximum tearing force in the ith peak,
Fimin 5 minimum tearing force in the ith peak,
Δli 5 the movement of Instron jaws between Fimax and Fimin.
Fabric code Weave type Weight (g/m2) Warp density (end/cm) Weft density (pick/cm)
200 mm 100 mm
100 mm
5 mm
70 mm
100 mm
Figure 1.
Specimen dimension
Static tear test sample dimension Dynamic tear test sample dimension
IJCST
33,3
356
Figure 2.
Instron tensile testing
machine and the
schematic of sample
between jaws
F
imax
F
imin
Figure 3.
Tearing energy
calculation’s
parameters ∆li
The value of ETear was divided by i to obtain the average tearing energy that is applied for the
comparing the results. The outcomes of static tear test are presented in Table 2.
Dynamic tear strength was measured based on the ASTM D1424 standard test method by
Falling-Pendulum (Elmendorf) apparatus. The specimens were cut with a dimension of
100 3 70 mm2 that they include a 5 mm cut in the centre of the short edge (Figure 1). It should
be considered that in both static and dynamic tear test method, the test direction (warp or
weft) is perpendicular to the force application direction. The potential energy of the pendulum
leads to the cut propagation of the sample. The average dynamic tearing force of five samples
in each direction (warp and weft) was reported. It should be noticed that during the static tear
test gradual load exertion to the yarns, which are located perpendicular to the tearing path,
occurs; however, in the dynamic tear test sudden rupture of the fabric is obtained due to the
rapid release of the pendulum.
In this regards, an automatic system called the multidirectional tactile sensing mechanism
was used to assess the kinetic friction coefficient between yarns (Ezazshahabi et al., 2015).
The instrument was basically invented with the aim of fabric friction investigation in order to
evaluate the property in a rapid and also accurate procedure. In the current study, the
mentioned instrument is modified for the measurement of yarn friction. The schematic of the
instrument and its components are shown in Figure 4.
In order to perform the frictional testing procedure by the multidirectional tactile sensing
mechanism, the yarns were wrapped with special care on a cardboard. For each test, two
cardboards were needed; one for the upper specimen and one for the lower specimen.
This system consists of a driving box including an electrical motor with controllable
speed. The rotational speed of the motor is set in a manner that the linear velocity of the holder
wheel is 60 mm/min. The force gauge is fixed on the holder and it has the ability to save the
data in the computer. While moving the holder, the rotational disk where the lower specimen
is attached on it, the tactile force for rotating the lower specimen in contact with the upper
Upper specimen
Lower specimen
25 14
12
20 10
15 25 (Pick/cm) 8 25 (Pick/cm)
28 (Pick/cm) 6
Figure 5. 10
4
28 (Pick/cm)
31 (Pick/cm) 31 (Pick/cm)
Effect of weave 5 2
structure on the static 0 0
tear force Plain Twill2/1 Twill3/1 Plain Twill2/1 Twill3/1
Weave Structure Weave Structures
of floating yarns leads to the better resistance of fabric against tear force. In the tearing Tearing
procedure in each moment, the force is exerted perpendicular to the yarn axis and on the few behaviour of
numbers of yarns. When the weave structure have lower interlacing point between weft and
warp yarns, they have higher movability in the fabric structure that let them to come together
woven shirting
and form yarn groups against tear force which results in the better resistance against load. fabrics
Consequently, twill 3/1 presents higher resistance rather than twill2/1 and plain. However,
plain weave shows the lowest tear resistance.
Similar results are achieved during the analysis of the effect of fabric density. As it is 359
revealed in Figures 5 and 6, both static force and energy are dependent on the weft density in
a contradictory manner. In other words, the more weft density causes less resistance against
tear load. In this regard, samples with weft density of 25 Pick/cm and 31 Pick/cm have the
highest and lowest tear force and energy, respectively, in each weave structure.
This result is due to the limited mobility of yarns in samples with higher weft density. Fabric
density increment beside the increase of yarn interlacing points lead to fabric’s higher firmness
and reduces its flexibility against tear load. As a results, the reduced yarn’s movement and the
ability to make a group inside the fabric structure cause the sample to rupture soon.
In this research the tearing behaviour of the fabrics were studied through both static and
dynamic tear tests. The results of the dynamic tear test are gathered in Table 3.
Analysis of results revealed that the values of tearing resistance obtained from two
methods are in accordance with each other and similar trends were obtained concerning the
weave structure and fabric direction.
In the rest of the paper, only the results of static tear test will be used for other analysis.
120
50
100
40
80
25 (Pick/cm) 30 25 (Pick/cm)
60
28 (Pick/cm)
40 31 (Pick/cm)
20 28 (Pick/cm) Figure 6.
31 (Pick/cm)
20
10 Effect of weave
0 0 structure on the static
Plain Twill2/1 Twill3/1 Plain Twill2/1 Twill3/1 tear energy
Weave Structure Weave Structure
Sample code
Warp direction Weft direction
Weave structure Weft density (Pick/cm) Dynamic tear force (N) Dynamic tear force (N)
3.3 Influence of yarn tensile behaviour on the tearing performance of the fabric
Since during the tear procedure, yarns tolerate the load in a perpendicular direction to their
length, it is anticipated that yarn’s tensile performance, influences the tear properties. To this
end, yarn’s tensile characteristics are shown in the Table 5.
The tear force is exerted to a point on the yarns in the tearing path. The ability of yarns to
propagate the load effect can delay the rupture. In means that for the yarns that can elongate
easily, the impact of force can be spread in the yarn and postpone the yarn break. In this
regard, the yarn’s tensile modulus should be considered. The lower yarn’s modulus leads to
better tear resistance. The experimental results confirm this explanation. The polyester yarn
which is used in warp direction has lower modulus in comparison with cotton yarns and
elongate under the load and hence, put off the yarn breakages. On the other hand, yarn’s
tenacity improves the tearing resistance. It is clear that yarns with high tenacity can stand
higher levels of load before rupture. Therefore, yarn’s with low modulus and high tenacity
help to enhance the fabric tear resistance. As it is presented in Table 5, the polyester yarn has
lower module and higher tenacity compared to the cotton yarn, which consequently raises the
tear resistance of the fabric in the warp direction.
3.4 Determination of the level of the importance of various factors affecting tear resistance
In order to individually understand the impact factor of the identified influencing parameters
on tear, linear regression analysis was carried out using the SPSS statistics software.
Since the effect of weave structure on the tearing behaviour of the fabric is directly related
to the firmness of the fabric, in the current study, to express the firmness of the fabrics, the
parameter of crossing over firmness factor (CFF) of fabric, introduced by Morino et al. (2005),
was used. This factor (CFF) is expressed as equation (3):
number of crossing over lines in the complete repeat
CFF ¼ (3)
number of interlacing points in the complete repeat
In order to determine the values of coefficients A0 . . . A3, the three mentioned parameters were
calculated for all sample groups and then the results were normalized to locate the data between
0 and 1. To this end, for normalizing each of the calculated factors, equation (5) was applied:
X Xmin
(5)
Xmax Xmin
Where, X is the calculated value for each property; Xmin, the minimum value obtained for each
factor; and Xmax, the maximum calculated value for each parameter.
The linear regression analysis for this investigation the coefficient of each affecting
normalized parameter is shown in equation (6).
Tear resistance ¼ 0:219 0:392 3 ðCFFÞ þ 0:163 3 ðyarn distanceÞ
þ 0:633 3 ðyarn tenacityÞ (6)
The linear regression coefficients were obtained with R2 5 0.921 (significance level of 0.05).
As it is apparent in equation (6), the factors with negative coefficient have reverse effect on
tear, while the factors with positive coefficient, directly affect the tearing behaviour of the
fabric. Thus, it can be concluded that the tear resistance of the fabric is proportional to the
identified effective parameters in the form of equation (7):
ðyarn tenacityÞ 3 ðyarn distanceÞ
Tear resistance ∝ (7)
ðCFFÞ
The results achieved from the regression analysis are in accordance with the findings and
interpretations presented in the other parts of this paper. The reverse influence of the CFF,
means that by increasing the firmness of the fabric, the ability of yarns to change their
position in the fabric structure and creating yarn groups becomes less and thus the tearing
resistance decreases, while on the other hand, the rise in yarn distance improves the
probability of yarn grouping. In case of investigation of the effect of yarn tenacity on tearing
behaviour, it is apparent that the rise in tenacity leads to higher tearing resistance.
Since the value of coefficients in a regression equation exhibits the influencing degree of
various parameters, considering the coefficients of equation (7), it is clear that amongst the
IJCST recognized factors, yarn tenacity is the most influencing factors, followed by CFF and yarn
33,3 distance.
From this outcome, it is possible to determine the importance of various factors affecting
tear and wisely select the best fabric structural parameters, for the better tear resistance of the
fabric in different end uses.
362 4. Conclusion
One of the prominent factors for evaluating the serviceability of a fabric is the tearing
resistance, which is a catastrophic growth of a cut on application of a force. To this end, the
tearing performance of a series of shirting woven fabrics were analysed and the tearing force
were calculated for this investigation.
In the study of the effect of fabric structural parameters such as weave pattern and weft
density, it was observed that amongst the studied fabrics, plain had the lowest tearing
resistance followed by twill 2/1 and twill 3/1. The obtained trend can be interpreted
considering the firmness of the fabric. An increase in the firmness of the fabric (for example
plain) leads to the less movement and grouping ability of the yarns in the fabric structure and
thus lower tearing strength. It was also determined that the decrease of the fabric density is a
reason for a rise in tearing resistance.
Analysis of results clarified that there are three fabric structural parameters, which can
significantly influence the tear of the fabric, such as the crossing over firmness factor (directly
related to the weave structure of the fabric), fabric density and yarn tenacity. According to the
results, amongst the identified influencing factors, yarn tenacity and yarn distance have the
highest and lowest impact on the tearing performance of the woven fabrics, respectively.
Besides, in view of the effect of yarn friction it was noted that an increase in friction results in
harder yarn grouping and lower tear resistance.
On the whole, it was concluded that yarn tenacity and the distance between yarns can
affect the tear directly, while the crossing over firmness factor have a contradictory influence
on tear resistance.
According to the outcomes of this study, to improve the serviceability and performance of
fabric during wear, especially for clothing that are more prone to snag by a sharp object that can
lead to fabric rupture by a slight effort, during clothing design step, consideration of fabric
characteristics including weave pattern and density, extensibility and friction is necessary.
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Corresponding author
Fatemeh Mousazadegan can be contacted at: f_mousazadegan@aut.ac.ir
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