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Directional wavemaker theory with sidewall

reflection
a
R. A. Dalrymple
a
Department of Civil Engineering , University of Delaware , Ocean Engineering
Group, Newark, DE, I97I6, U.S.A.
Published online: 19 Jan 2010.

To cite this article: R. A. Dalrymple (1989) Directional wavemaker theory with sidewall reflection, Journal of Hydraulic
Research, 27:1, 23-34, DOI: 10.1080/00221688909499241

To link to this article: http://dx.doi.org/10.1080/00221688909499241

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 Directional wavemaker theory with sidewall reflection
Theorie du batteur de houle directionnel avec
reflexion sur les parois latérales
R. A. DALRYMPLE
Ocean Engineering Group,
Department of Civil Engineering,
University of Delaware, Newark, DE I97I6, U.S.A.

SUMMARY
A directional wavemaker theory is presented for waves in wave basins with sloping bottoms and reflective
sidewalls. The theory includes the refraction, shoaling and diffraction that occur in wave basins with the
wavemaker mounted along one end of the basin. A procedure is shown which utilizes the reflection from the
sidewalls to produce planar wave trains at a given location in the basin, similar to that which would be
obtained by an infinitely long wavemaker.
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RÉSUMÉ
Une theorie du batteur de houle directionnel est présentée pour des vagues générées dans des bassins a
houle a fond incline et a parois latérales réfléchissantes. La theorie prend en compte la refraction et la
diffraction qui se produisent dans les bassins a houle comportant un batteur a une de leurs extrêmités.
Une methode est présentée, utilisant la reflexion par les murs latéraux pour produire un train d'ondes
cylindriques, en un endroit donné óu bassin, simUaire a celui que \'on obtiendrait a parUr d'un batteur de
houle infiniment long.

1 Introduction
Directional wavemakers provide the capability to develop a directional sea state within a labora-
tory wave basin. These wavemakers, mounted against one wall of a rectangular wave basin,
generally consist of numerous wave paddles, driven at the center (University of Edinburg, Salter,
[9]; MARINTEK, Norwegian Technology Research Institute A/S; Delft Hydraulics Laboratory;
Hydraulics Laboratory, National Research Council of Canada; University of Delaware, for
example) or at the hinges between adjacent paddles (Technical University of Denmark, Sand
[10]; U.S. Army Corps of Engineers, Briggs et al. [2]).
The water wave theory which relates the motion of the wave paddles to the wave motions in the
wave tank has been discussed by several authors, such as Havelock [7], Sand [10], Dalrymple and
Greenberg [3] and Takayama [11]. In all of these treatments the wave motion has been governed
by linear wave theory; see Dean and Dalrymple [5, Chapter 6] for an overview. None of these
treatments have permitted variable bottom depths.
In this paper, a splitting procedure is used on the mild-slope equation to develop a propagation
equation for the wave potential within a wave basin, with reflecting sidewalls and a bottom that
slopes upwards (or downwards) in a direction perpendicular to the wavemaker. The resulting
equation can be solved analytically to determine the wave field as a function of distance from the

Revision received September 26, 1988. Open for discussion till August 31, 1989.

JOURNAL OF HYDRAULIC RESEARCH. VOL 27. 1989. NO. 1 2^

 wave paddle, given its motion. Examples are shown for the case of a oblique plane wave trains
emanating from the paddle. Due to the presence of sidewalls and the finite width of the wave-
maker, short-crested seas occur near the upwave sidewall and diffraction occurs at the other side
of the tank. This can be seen in Fig. 2, which shows contours of the instantaneous water surface
elevations of waves generated by a wavemaker located along the bottom of the figure. In the last
section, a procedure is presented which enables the generation of a planar wave train at any
location in the basin which is uniform across the entire width of the basin. This procedure can
dramatically extend the testing area in wave basins. While this concept is not new (Sand, 1986,
personal communications; Funke and Miles [6]), the detailed theory presented here is far more
complete than previous analyses.

2 Theoretical model
2.1 Boundary value problem
The wave basin is rectangular, with width 2b and a length L. The coordinate axes are located at
the center of the wavemaker end of the tank with they axis (at the mean water level) directed
along the wavemaker and the positive x axis directed perpendicularly into the basin. The side-
walls of the basin (at y = ± b) are vertical and impermeable, which means that any wave motion
impinging on the walls will be reflected. See Fig. 1. The bottom of the tank will slope in the x
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direction, such that the bottom contours are plane and parallel in they direction. For a constant
depth tank, we take the bottom slope to be zero.
y

2b
Fig. 1. Schematic of wave basin, h = 1.1 m; b = 16 m; L = 50 m.
Schema de la cuve a houle.

24 JOURNAL DE RECHERCHES HYDRAULIQUES, VOL 27, 1989. NO. 1

 The mathematical theory follows the treatment developed by Dalrymple and Kirby [4] for the
combined diffraction and refraction of waves on sloping beaches. The assumed linear water wave
motion will be taken to be determined by a velocity potential, which satisfies the mild slope equa-
tion, Berkhoff [1]. This equation governs the progressive wave made by the wavemaker and
neglects the standing evanescent wave modes, which decay close to the wavemaker (see, e.g.,
Ursell, Dean and Yu [12], for a description of these evanescent modes). The mild-slope equation
can be written as
. . ,, , cosh k(h + z) .„
(p{x,y,z,t) = 4>(x,y) ZTT^e (1)
cosh kn
d I dd>\ d24> ,
cc +cc +/cCCe 0 (2)
d ^) w ^
where CCi is the product of the wave phase velocity and the group velocity, and the wave number
k is related to the water depth, h(x) and the wave angular frequency, co, by the dispersion
relationship below.

C =- = y-tanhkh (3)
K if K
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1/ 2kh \
C,g = - 1 + (4)
2\ sinh2khj
co7 = gktanhkh (5)

All of the above equations are consistent with small amplitude assumptions and the imposition
of a mild bottom slope. The mild-slope equation, equation (2), is exact for constant depth
(becoming the usual Helmholtz equation), for shallow water, and for deep water. At the side walls
of the basin, y=±b, there is no fluid flow, therefore,
d<p
— = 0 on y= ±b (6)
dy

To satisfy these two lateral boundary conditions, we will take

<p(x,y) = ${x) Y. («n cos Xny + bn sin yny) (7)

n=0

where k„ = {njtjb) and yn = (n +\)njb for n = 0,1,2...,oo. The reduced mild-slope equation
becomes two equations:

£(cCg|) + CC 8 (^-«V=0 (8)

where a =An or yn depending which of the forms of the solution in equation (7) is used.
The reduced wave potential, </>, can consist of waves propagating in the positive and negative x
directions; later, we will concentrate on the positive waves propagating into the basin. This allows
us to split the wave potential into two parts,
$=<p+ + r (9)

JOURNAL OF HYDRAULIC RESEARCH. VOL. 27. 1989. NO. 1 25

 We now assume that positive and negative propagating potentials satisfy the following equations:
d<p+
= iik7-a2(p+ + F{x) (10)
ax

— =-i^k2-a2<fi--F{x) (11)
d.v
where F(x) is an unknown function to be determined by substituting these equations into our
governing equation, equation (8) (note that if the governing equation had constant coefficients,
as in a constant depth basin, this splitting procedure would be exact, with F(x) equal to zero).
After substituting,

/ v {<P+-<P~) dCCjk2-a2
W %
F(x) = - JJ— - (12)
2CCJk2-a2 dx
Neglecting the <p~ term in F, as we assume that the reflected waves are small, we have the equation
governing the forward propagating wave,

— =iik2-a2<p+- s
<t>+ (13)
2 2
dx 2CCJk -a dx
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This equation can be solved to yield

2 2
^ = / f n 0
(CCjk
| ^ L l 7-= a^)|0 e,i5^^dx (14)
2
CCJk
-g' -a2
where An0 is the value of A„ at x = 0. The term in the parenthesis is the product of the shoaling
coefficient, Ks(x, a) and the refraction coefficient, Kr(x,a); see Dean and Dalrymple (1984), for
example. This product will be denoted here by Ksr; its numerator is to be evaluated at x = 0 and
the denominator is a function of x. The total forward propagating velocity potential is now
/ \ / -i .JA cosh k(h + z) .,„
0(x,y,z,t) = (<t>+e+</>+o) ^ 7 7 ^ ^ (15)

cosh kh
where
co

4>:= £ / l n o t f s r ( * A y i / k ^ d * c o s A n > > (16)

n=0

^=iBn0KsXx,7n)e'i/^I?"d,ls\nyny (17)
n=0

The subscripts, e and 0, refer to the even and odd solutions about the y = 0 axis. In addition to
these progressive wave solutions given by the mild-slope equation, there are the evanescent
standing wave modes mentioned early, which exist near the wavemaker, which are not be con-
sidered here due to their rapid decay away from the wavemaker. However, some of the above
"propagating wave modes" also are evanescent; those for which Xn>k{x) or yn> k(x). If these
eigenvalues are much greater than k, then the waves decay rapidly with x; however, if the eigen-
values are only slightly larger than k, then the decay may be slow. In most cases, when the far field
waves are desired, the largest value of n to retain in the summation is quite small, say on the order
of 10-20.

76 JOURNAL DE RECHERCHES HYDRAULIQUES, VOL. 27. 1989. NO. 1

 T h e solution for the velocity potential, <t>, is analytic; however, the determination of the phase
integrals in equation (15) are determined numerically for the case of a sloping bottom. For mild
slopes, the Euler integration method can be used. F o r more drastic changes (which do not
invalidate the mild slope assumption) or for long propagation distances, a more accurate integra-
tion scheme should be used.
For a constant depth basin, the solutions are simplified as the phase integrals can be determined:

<t>t=ZAn^^*cos\ny (18)
n=0

0o+=l5nOe'/^^xsinyny (19)
n=0

These flat bottom solutions represent an augmentation of Madsen's [8] solution by the inclusion
of another out-of-phase standing wave system to permit the analysis of progressive waves).

2.2 Initial conditions

In t h e parabolic forms of the equation, t h e condition at the wavemaker (x = 0) is an initial con-
dition, which forces t h e wave-induced water motions (found by taking the derivative of the
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potential in the x direction) to match the motions of the wave paddle.

T h e wavemaker motion will assumed to be a snake-like motion along the y axis, leading to the
generation of a plane wave train with an angle of incidence with respect to the x axis. T h u s the
paddle motion will be described by t h e real part of
X=S0g(z)e'Uoy~uA) (20)
where g(z) is the vertical dependence of the paddle motion over the water depth (for example, for
a flap wavemaker, g(z) = (l + zjh) and A0 is the ^ - c o m p o n e n t of the wavenumber of the desired
wave, A0 = k sin 9, where 0 is the angle that the wave train makes with the x axis. S0 is the
m a x i m u m amplitude of the paddle stroke. It is assumed here that the paddle is continuous along
the_y axis and able to make the prescribed sinusoidal motion exactly. In practice, the wavemaker
is segmented, and thus we use a discrete representation of the sinusoidal motion represented
by (20).
T h e linearized initial condition for this wavemaker, in terms of the horizontal velocity in the x-
direction, is then
-iaS0g(z)e'^-^\y\<a
u(x,y,t) = (n}
0 \y\>a
where 2a is the width of the wavemaker, which may be less than 2b, the width of the basin. This
condition has an even and an odd contribution about the x-axis, therefore, we split the exponen-
tial term,
ei(i0y-u,t) = ( C Q S Xoy + t s i n j ^ - i - i (22)

Now matching the even and odd solutions to the horizontal velocity determined from the
velocity potential at x = 0,

„ /v 2-, / T ï c o s n k{h + z)
-i(oS0g(z) cosX0y= 2,An0iVk -A„ — - — cosA n >- (23)
n=o cosh kn

JOURNAL OF HYDRAULIC RESEARCH. VOL. 27, 1989. NO. 1 27

 v- l~j j cosh k(h + z)
aS0g(z) sin A0y = 2, #no' ' k - Yn —T, sin
Y*y <24>
n=0 cosh kh
To determine the An0, fin0, we make use of the orthogonalities of the functions that occur in this
problem. The following are orthogonal sets of functions, (cos A.„y,n = 0,1,2,...}, {sin yay,n = 0,
1,2,...}. Additionally, the depth-dependent function, cosh k(h + z) is a member of an orthogonal
set as well. To perform the matching implied in the above equations, the orthogonality properties
of the functions will be exploited by first integrating both sides over the water column (after
multiplying both sides by the hyperbolic cosine function, to determine the contribution of the
paddle motion to the progressive wave modes) and then by integrating over the width of the basin
after multiplying both sides by a member of the trigonometric orthogonal set. Letting G be
defined as
o
j g(z) cosh k(h + z) dz cosh kh
G=- (25)
J cosh 2 k{h + z) Az
-h

we have finally
2S0a>G{X0 sin A0a cos Ano —An cos X0a sin Ana)
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An0 = (26)
(xl-kl)ik2-k2nb
2iS0(»G(yn sin X0a cos y„a-X0 cos l0a sin yaa)
o„a = , {■in

Ul-yDfk^lb
For a = b, a wavemaker spanning the width of the basin, these expression simplify to
2(— \)nS0cüGXa sin A0b
An0 = - ' ° (28)
{l\-X])ik1-X\b
2/(— l^SncoGkf) cos knb
Bn0 = - ° (29)

With these expressions, the wave field generated into the wave basin can be computed. As an
example, Fig. 2, viewed with the wavemaker at the bottom and with the + x direction vertically
upwards, shows the instantaneous water surface profile for a wave train generated at 30° to the
x axis. For this case, the basin is assumed to be 1.1 m deep, 50 m long and 32 m wide (b = 16 m).
The wave period is 1.2 seconds and the wavemaker spans the width of the basin. Note that the
wave train impinges directly onto the vertical sidewall and reflects back into the basin, creating
a local short-crested sea near the far end of the basin. If the basin were longer, the wavetrain
would propagate out of the short-crested sea area, travelling in the — 30° direction, until the right
sidewall was encountered and the reflection process would repeat. Fig. 3, again with the wave-
maker at the bottom, is for a wave train at 15°. Here the portions of the tank occupied by sidewall
reflection and diffraction is much less. In the limit of 0° 5 incidence, then there is no reflection
and diffraction; however, this case negates the advantages of a directional wavemaker.
Clearly for reasonable angles of incidence, there is only a small region in the tank where experi-
ments could be carried out with a planar wave system and this would be near the wavemaker,
where the waves may be adulterated by the presence of evanescent modes.

?8 JOURNAL DE RECHERCHES HYDRAULIQUES, VOL. 27. 1989. NO. 1

Downloaded by [] at 04:13 22 February 2015

Fig. 2. Instantaneous water surface elevations for a planar wave train, with 30° incidence for constant
depth, r = 1.2 s.
Elevation instantanée du niveau d'eau pour un train d'ondes cylindriques, avec une incidence de 30°
et une profondeur constante: T = 1,2 s.

2.3 Wave train design

For a directional wave basin, it is desireable to have a wide experimental area far from the wave-
maker (to ensure freedom from the evanescent modes). Therefore, we would like to obtain an
oblique plane wave system at a given x location within the basin, which extends across the width
of the basin, uncontaminated by sidewall reflection. This is in fact easily done for the case that
a = b by determining the initial coefficients, An0, Sn0, not at x = 0 as before, but at the desired
experimental location, x = x m . This is straightforward, following the method above, yielding new
values of the coefficients, denoted with primes, that are only slightly different from the previous
values.
A ,j* m /p^jd>
A'n0= "° . ,. m j „ (30)

B'„n = (31)
A^dx
Ksr(*m,}'n)<'1

where i 0 ' s evaluated at xm. The wave paddle motion now is derived from equations (18, 2.1),
evaluated at x-0, resulting in the summation of numerous sinusoidal motions.

JOURNAL OF HYDRAULIC RESEARCH. VOL. 27. 1989. NO. 1 29

Downloaded by [] at 04:13 22 February 2015

Fig. 3. Instantaneous water surface elevations for a planar wave train, with 15° incidence for constant
depth. T = 1.2 s.
Elevation instantanée du niveau d'eau pour un train d'ondes cylindriques, avec une incidence de 15°
et une profondeur constante: 7 = 1,2 s.

Computations of the "designer wavemaker" theory are shown in Figs. 2 and 3, now viewed with
the wavemaker at the top of the figure and the positive x axis downwards, showing the generation
of wave trains at x = 0, which result in the desired planar wave train at xm = L (the end of the
basin) for 30° and 15°, measured from the x axis, respectively. In Fig. 4, the plane wave system is
desired in the center of the basin, so xm = L/2 for the 30° wave train.
For each of these figures, there is a planar oblique wave train at the desired location, which spans
the complete width of the tank. The wavemaker motion at x = 0, on the other hand, is very com-
plicated, being composed (for this case) of 14 wave trains of differing strengths and directions.
These are tabulated in Table 1. (Note that this is independent of the number of wave paddles used
to generate the motion. The more wave paddles, the better the resolution of the wave motions
Sand [10]).
It is interesting to note that the method utilizes the reflection from the sidewalls to create the
"clean" planar wave train at the study area (x = xj and further implicitly includes the effects of
refraction and diffraction.
All of the above figures were generated for constant depth wave basins. For a sloping bottom,

10 JOURNAL DE RECHERCHES HYDRAULIQUES, VOL. 27, 1989, NO. 1

 Table 1. Complex coefficients of the propagating wave modes for Fig. 3
mode, n An0 (real, imagine ry) B„„ (real, imaginary)
1 2.566229E-002 2.610549E-002 3.391962E-002 -3.633575E-002
2 -1.810967E-002 -3.924546E-002 -4.286617E-002 3.244114E-002
3 -1.738143E-002 6.485878E-002 7.034362E-002 -9.160089E-003
4 3.421485E-001 -8.898222E-002 -1.093680E-001 -1.004967E-001
5 3.021613E-002 7.284040E-002 1.227819E-001 -2.801695E-001
6 3.187293E-002 -4.150033E-002 -5.715235E-002 -2.916088E-002
7 1.046062E-002 -1.624049E-002 -2.730254E-002 1.955311E-002
8 2.575825E-003 -1.331660E-002 -6.881866E-003 2.099158E-002
9 3.769260E-003 -9.733882E-003 -3.316109E-003 1.597260E-002
10 8.049054E-003 -3.004140E-003 -8.376788E-003 9.950546E-003
11 1.864534E-003 7.266154E-003 -1.031047E-002 -3.917124E-003
12 -3.914598E-003 -5.779831E-003 8.253003E-003 -5.516571E-003
13 -4.914309E-003 5.137821E-003 -9.440198E-003 1.792188E-003
14 -6.508219E-003 -6.040013E-003 -8.346324E-003 6.434559E-003
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Fig. 4. Instantaneous water surface elevations for a planar wave train, with 30° incidence for constant
depth, uniform across the width at xm = Z./2. T = \.2 s.
Elevation instantanée du niveau d'eau pour un train d'ondes cylindriques, avec une incidence de
30°, une profondeur constante, uniforme sur toute la largeur a xm = Lj2. T = 1,2 s.

JOURNAL OF HYDRAULIC RESEARCH. VOL. 27, 1989, NO. 1 31

 refraction and shoaling will be an important process. For example, in Fig. 5 the basin depths
slope upwards from the wavemaker (h = 1.1 m and located at the top of the figure) to the far end
(h = 0.1 m). The figure shows the generation of a plane wave train at 15° measured at the beach
(x m = L). Note that the wavemaker (at x = 0) is creating short crested waves for 0 >y > — b, but
that there is almost no motion for + y. Comparing Fig. 5 to Fig. 3 shows that the offshore waves in
the shoaling wave basin must be generated at a larger angle of incidence so that the effects of
refraction over the shallow portion of the beach can be properly incorporated. (The step size used
in the numerical integration of the phase function was 0.25 m).
This design wave methodology has been implemented successfully in the 20 m x 20 m x 1 m
directional wave basin at the University of Delaware.
In closing, it should be noted that a discrete spectral sea state can be generated in the wave basin,
avoiding the contamination from reflection and diffraction, by the superposition of many
"designer" waves. However, nonlinear wave-wave interactions would not be included in this
strictly linear treatment.
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Fig. 5. Instantaneous water surface elevations for a planar wave train, with 15° incidence over a sloping
bottom, xm = L. The wavemaker is located at the top of the figure. 1.2 s.
Elevation instantanéedu niveau d'eau pour un train d'ondescylindriques, avecune incidence de 15°
sur un fond en pente, xm = L. Le générateur de houle est situé a la partie supérieure de la figure.
r = 1,2 s.

32 JOURNAL DE RECHERCHES HYDRAULIQUES. VOL. 27. 1989, NO. 1

 Acknowledgements

This study was funded in part from the U.S. Commerce Department, Office of Sea Grant under
Grant NA86AA-D-SG040. Construction of the wave basin was funded by the National Science
Foundation, under Grant No. CEE-8114826.

Notations

a half-width of the wavemaker

An0 coefficient of even modes
Sn0 coefficient of odd modes
b half-width of the basin
C wave celerity
Cg group velocity
F unknown splitting function
g depth dependency of wavemaker
h water depth

k wavenumber
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K^,Kr,Kir shoaling and refraction coefficients and their product

L length of basin
n index on wave mode
S0 wavemaker stroke
t time
x,y,z horizontal and vertical coordinates
,v m desired x location for planar waves
a dummy variable for X or y
yn eigenvalue for odd modes
An eigenvalue for even modes
A0 imposed wavenumber in y direction by wavemaker
u) angular frequency
<f> horizontal component of velocity potential
<t>+,4>~ forward and backward propagating wave modes
even a
0e,0o ° d odd components of forward propagating wave
0 total velocity potential for the wave motion

References / Bibliographie

1. BERKHOFF, J. C. W., Computation of Combined Refraction-Diffraction, Proc. 13th Int. Coastal Engi-
neering Conf, ASCE, Vancouver, pp. 471-490, 1972.
2. BRIGGS, M. E., BORGMAN, L. E. and OUTLAW, D. G., Generation and Analysis of Directional Spectral
Waves in a Laboratory Basin, Proc. 19th Offshore Technology Conf, OTC 5416, pp. 495-502, 1987.
3. DALRYMPLE, R. A. and GREENBERG, M., Directional Wavemakers, in Physical Modelling in Coastal Engi-
neering, R. A. Dalrymple, ed., A. A. Balkema, Rotterdam, 1985.
4. DALRYMPLE, R. A. and KIRBY, J.T., Very Wide Angle Water Wave Models and Wave Diffraction, J. Fluid
Mechanics, 192, pp. 33-50, 1988.
5. DEAN, R. G. and DALRYMPLE, R. A., Water Wave Mechanics for Engineers and Scientists, Prentice-Hall,
Englewood Cliffs, 1984.

JOURNAL OF HYDRAULIC RESEARCH. VOL. 27. 1989. NO. 1 33

 6. FUNKE, E. R. and MILES, M. D., Multi-directional Wave Generation with Corner Reflectors, National
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7. HAVELOCK, T. H., Forced Surface Waves on Water, Phil. Mag., 7, 1929.
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12, 2, pp. 205-222, 1974.
9. SALTER, S. H., Absorbing Wave-makers and Wide Tanks, in Directional Wave Spectra Applications,
R. L. Wiegel, ed., ASCE, 1981; also reprinted in Physical Modelling in Coastal Engineering, R. A.
Dalrymple, ed., A. A. Balkema, Rotterdam, 1985.
10. SAND, S. E., Three-Dimensional Deterministic Structure of Ocean Waves, Institute of Hydrodynamics
and Hydraulic Engineering, Series Paper 24, 1979.
11. TAKAYAMA, Theory of Oblique Waves Generated by Serpent-type Wave-Maker, Coastal Engineering
in Japan, 27, pp. 1-19, 1984.
12. URSELL, F., DEAN, R. G. and Yu, Y. S., Forced Small Amplitude Water Waves: A Comparison of Theory
and Experiment, J. Fluid Mechanics, 7, Pt. 1, 1960.
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14 JOURNAL DE RECHERCHES HYDRAULIQUES, VOL 27, 1989. NO I