My Paddington: Teresa Alvarez

2016
January 2016
Teresa Alvarez
MY PADDINGTON
About copyright: It’s really something great when people like what I have designed. You can sell the
final item or whatever you like, but it would be nice to reference where you found the pattern!
If there is anything you do not understand or there are any mistakes, please, send
me a message!
As you can see in the way I write, English is not my first language. So, you could
come across some mistakes and grammatical inconsistencies. Sorry and my
apologies!
Teddy bears are always a nice gift. One little girl I know wanted one, so … And as
she likes Paddington, I decided to dress this cute softie with a red hat and blue coat.
As I wanted the toy to be very soft and cuddly I went for a pseudo-furry yarn: lovely
result but a real nightmare to work with!
ABOUT YARN:
I’ve used a yarn from Katia (Spanish manufacturer): bombon (50gr.=85m.) in red
(hat) and blue (coat). One skein of each color.
The bear has been crocheted with Snuggly Snowflake Chunky by Sirdar: 25 gr, 65
meters (2 skeins) in light brown.
Some chocolate brown scraps for the ears.
ABOUT GAUGE:
It is not important, as far as you are consistent with your tension.
ABOUT HOOK:
It depends on the yarn. I’ve used a 4 mm hook for the bear and 5.5 mm for the hat
and coat.
Remember that when making amigurumis, stitches should be tight.
YOU WILL NEED:

• Yarn: purple, orange, green.
• Two black eyes.
• A nose.
• Stuffing.
• Tapestry needle.
ABOUT CROCHET TERMS:

I’ve followed the US terminology.
Stitch: st
Chain: ch
Slip stitch: sl st
Single crochet: sc
FLO: Front Loop Only
BLO: Back Loop Only
Sc2tog: decreasing two sc (i.e., 2 st become 1)
All the pattern is worked in spirals, so do not join at the end/beginning of a

row.
Muzzle
Using light brown
Round 1: magic ring, 6 sc (alternatively, 2 ch and 6 sc in 2nd ch from hook).
Round 2: 2sc in each st across (12st)
Round 3: [2sc in next st, sc in next st] repeat 6 times (18st)
Round 4: sc in each st across (18 sts)
Fasten off.
Place nose and embroider mouth.
Ear (make 2: dark brown)

Round 2: 2sc in each st across (12st)
Round 3: sc in each st across (12st)
Round 4: [2sc, sc in next 5sts] repeat 2 times (14 sts)
Fasten off
Arm (make 2)
Using light brown
(stuff arms as you work)
Round 2: 2sc in next 6 st, (12 sts)
Round 3: [2sc in next st, sc in next 3st] repeat 3 times (15st)
Round 4: sc in each across (15 st)
Round 5: [2sc2tog, sc in next 3st] repeat 3 times (12st)
Round 6: [2sc2tog, sc in next 4st] repeat 3 times (10st)
Round 7-16: sc in each st across (10 sts) (10 rounds)
Fasten off.
Leg (make 2)
Using light brown
(stuff legs as you work)
Round 2: 2sc in next 6 st, (12 sts)
Round 5-6: sc in each across (24 st)
(Shaping the foot)
Round 7: [sc2tog] 3 times, sc in 18sts (21 sts)
Round 10-17: sc in every st across (16sts) (8 rounds)
Fasten off
Body and head

Using light brown
The body if worked from the legs upwards, the arms are joined and then the head.
Body and head are 1 piece.
We have the two legs (be careful because we have the shape of the foot:
Side view
Round 1:
We are going to join both legs as follows.
Feet
Join yarn at any point. Although I joined it at , work 1sc, ch 2, and sc aroun every st
of the second leg (16sts), when you reach the two chains, work 2sc and then you
are in the first leg again, work a sc in next 15 sts. Instead of finishing this first round
here, work a sc on top of where you joined the yarn and 2sc in the other side of the 2
chains.
We have : 16+16+2+2=36 sts
Round 2: we’ll increase 2 sts. Instead of saying work #sts and so and so. I’m only
saying the place where increases should be located at the front and at the
back.
(My drawing talent is nonexistent!, the previous draw should resemble the result of
first round …)
In round 2 we finish with 38 sts, so we work sc in every st around and two increases:
one at the front and one at the back.
Round 3,4,5: sc in every st around (38sts)
Round 6: two decreases, one at each side and sc in remaining sts (36 sts):
Round 7: sc in every st around. (36 sts)

Round 8: two decreases, one at each side and sc in remaining sts (34 sts):
Round 9,10: sc in every st around. (34 sts)
Round 11: two decreases, one at each side an sc in remaining sts. (32 sts)
Round 12: two decreases, one at the front and 1 at the back, and sc in remaining sts.
(30 sts)
Round 14: two decreases, one at the front and 1 at the back, and sc in remaining sts
(26sts)
(22sts)
(16sts)
Now we have two options:
Option 1:
Round 20: sc in every st across and later sew arms at this row.
Option 2:
Round 20: JOIN ARMS, we have 16 sts to work. When you reach each side, work
through both the arm and the body, and at the front and at the back work as
usual.
Let’s explain it more detailed. Let’s suppose you begin your round here:
Feet Arm
Work the next 5sts through arm and body, then 3sc , then 5 sts through 2nd arm
and finally 3sc (body).
Round 21: 4 decreases. We finish the round with 12 sts.
Remember to stuff as you go.
HEAD:
Round 27-31: sc in every st across (42sts)
Round 33,34: sc in every st across (48sts)
Round 35: [sc2tog, sc in next 6st.] repeat 6 times (42 sts)
Comment 1: eyes can be attached, muzzle sewn and head stuffed
Round 41: [sc2tog] repeat 6 times (6 sts)
Fasten off
Finishing: ears. Weave in ends and play!!!!!!!!

Clothes
Now, change to 5.5mm hook and bombon yarn.
HAT
Using red
Round 1: magic ring, 6 sc.

Round 2: [2sc in next st] repeat 6 times (12st)
Round 8-12: sc in every st across (42sts)
Round 13: [2sc in next st, sc in next st] repeat 21 times (63 sts)
Sl st in first st
Next 3 rounds are NOT worked in spiral. Do NOT turn.
Round 14-16: [hdc, dc,hdc, sc in 18 sts] repeat 3 times, sl st in 1st st
(the hdc,dc,hdc stitches are worked to achieve a slightly triangular shape)
Use the end to sew the corner to the body of the hat .
This bit is optional!

COAT
Using blue.
I only had one blue skein, if you have a bit more the hood can be crocheted bigger.
SLEEVES
Ch 15
Row 1: sc in 2nd ch from hk and in every ch, ch 1, turn (14sts)
Row 2: 2sc in 1st st of previous row, sc in next 12 sts, 2sc in last st, ch 1, turn (16sts)
Row 5-6: sc in every st across, ch1, turn (20 sts).
Fasten off
Fold in half and sew.
HOOD
Ch 10
Row 2-20: sc in every st, ch 1, turn (9sts)
Fasten off
Fold in half and sew the long side to form the hood and sew the short sides to the
neck of the coat.
Sew these edges together to form the hood
COAT:
Ch 29
Row 2-11: sc in every st, ch 1, turn (9sts)
Now we work the two front panels and the back
Front panel 1: Row 12-17: sc in next 6 sts, ch 1, turn (6sts). Fasten off.
Front panel 2: Join yarn at the other sideRow 12-17: sc in next 6 sts, ch 1, turn (6sts).
Fasten off
Back: join yarn at st number 9 of row 11:
Row 12-17: sc in next 12 sts , ch 1, turn.
Finally, we have, turning the coat upside down:
Sew this edge to the first 6 sts.
Repeat for the other shoulder.

Now sew the arms to the body of the coat.
Last, sew hood to coat and sew buttons.

My Paddington: Teresa Alvarez

Uploaded by

Copyright:

Available Formats

My Paddington: Teresa Alvarez

Uploaded by

Document Information

Original Title

Copyright

Available Formats

Share this document

Share or Embed Document

Sharing Options

Did you find this document useful?

Is this content inappropriate?

Copyright:

Available Formats

My Paddington: Teresa Alvarez

Uploaded by

Copyright:

Available Formats

2016

YOU WILL NEED:

ABOUT CROCHET TERMS:

All the pattern is worked in spirals, so do not join at the end/beginning of a

Ear (make 2: dark brown)

Body and head

Round 7: sc in every st around. (36 sts)

Round 21: 4 decreases. We finish the round with 12 sts.

Remember to stuff as you go.

Finishing: ears. Weave in ends and play!!!!!!!!

Round 1: magic ring, 6 sc.

This bit is optional!

Fold in half and sew.

Sew these edges together to form the hood

Now we work the two front panels and the back

Back: join yarn at st number 9 of row 11:

Row 12-17: sc in next 12 sts , ch 1, turn.

Finally, we have, turning the coat upside down:

Sew this edge to the first 6 sts.

Repeat for the other shoulder.

Last, sew hood to coat and sew buttons.

You might also like