Basic Kirtle 2
Basic Kirtle 2
Basic Kirtle 2
http://wychwood.wikidot.com
http://users.ox.ac.uk/~wychwood
sleeve: cut 2
G
front/back: cut 1 E
C
2xA
I
F
L
C J
side panel:
cut 2
neckline K
facing: cut 1
Not drawn to scale. Leave a seam allowance of 3cm around all pieces when cutting out.
Measurements
A: From nape of neck to where you want the hemline
B: Width across back of shoulders + 6cm
C: Width of neck
- note: cut slit in front of tunic to approx. 3cm. You
should *just* be able to put the piece over your head.
D: Distance over shoulder from one side of armpit to the other
E: Length from top of shoulder to mid-hand
F: Circumference of hand at widest point
G: Width of side of ribcage at nipple height
- increase this measurement if you are well endowed
H: Distance from middle of inside upper arm to armpit
I: Distance from armpit to waistline
J: Distance from waistline to hemline
K: However wide you want your gores! Suggest 20-30cm
L: C+6cm
wychwood warriors
http://wychwood.wikidot.com
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Instructions
1) Attach the side panel to the sleeve by placing the red and the blue dots together and
pinning along the line between them.
2) Fold the sleeve in half so that the pairs of green, blue and yellow dots meet each other. Pin
along this edge.
3) Check the fit of the sleeve by putting it on. If you're happy, sew along the pinned lines.
Otherwise, move the pins to make the sleeve wider or narrower as necessary.
4) Repeat for the second sleeve.
5) Pin the sleeve to the side of the main front/back piece by placing the white dots together
and working down each side. Continue pinning to attach the straight edges of the side panel to
the front/back, stopping when you reach the waistline.
6) Put the tunic on and check the fit. If you're happy, pin the second sleeve to the front/back
piece.
7) Check the fit again. If you're happy, c ontinue pinning the side panels to the front/back along
the sloping edge of the ‘gore’ part of the side panel.
8) Check the fit again. If you're happy, sew along the pinned lines.
9) To attach the facing panel at the neckline, turn the tunic inside out and place the facing
over the neck hole, right side down. Make sure to align the small slits in the front panel and the
facing. Pin the pieces together around the neck hole and around the slit. Check the fit over
your head. If you're happy, cut 6 small V-shaped notches into the seam around the neckline,
taking care not to cut into the line of sewing. Also cut off the corners in the seam allowance at
the top of the slit. Finish this seam using blanket stitch.
10) Turn the tunic right side out and fold the facing panel out so that it lies over the main tunic
in its final position. You might need to iron the work at this stage so that the facing lies flat.
Fold the edges of the facing panel backwards and pin the perimeter of the panel to the tunic.
Check that everything is flat and straight and sew around the perimeter of the facing panel.
11) Finish off all internal hems with blanket stitch or by folding raw edges in and using a simple
over-and-over stitch. Fold the bottom hem up inside the tunic, fold up again so that the raw
edge is hidden. Pin along the hem, check it's straight and iron if necessary. Sew along the
hem.
12) To finish the sleeves, either use the same method as for the bottom hem, or make cuffs by
sewing two tubes of fabric twice as long as you want the cuff to be, folding each tube back over
itself and attaching as a 'cap' over the end of each sleeve.