PD

F
India
Delhi
(PDF Chapter)
Edition 17th Edition, Oct 2017
Pages 48
Page Range 56–103 COVERAGE INCLUDES:
Useful Links • Sights • Gurgaon
• Activities (Gurugram)
Want more guides?
Head to our shop • Tours
• Courses
Trouble with your PDF?
Trouble shoot here • Sleeping
• Eating
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Head to our FAQs • Drinking & Nightlife
• Entertainment
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• Shopping
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• Greater Delhi

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#

Delhi
% 011 / POP 25.7 MILLION / ELEV 293M

Includes  Why Go?

History. . . . . . . . . . . . . . 57 Delhi is a city where time travel is feasible. Step aboard your
Sights. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 57 time machine (the sleek and efficient metro) and you can
Activities . . . . . . . . . . . . 79 go from Old Delhi, where labourers haul sacks of spices and
Tours. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 79 jewellers weigh gold on dusty scales, to modern New Delhi,
with its colonial-era parliament buildings and penchant for
Courses. . . . . . . . . . . . . 80 high tea. Then on to the future: Gurgaon, a satellite city of
Sleeping. . . . . . . . . . . . . 80 skyscraping offices and glitzy malls.
Eating. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 85 This pulsating metropolis has a bigger population than
Drinking & Nightlife. . . 91 Australia, and is one of the world’s most polluted cities. But
woven into its rich fabric are moments of pure beauty: an
Entertainment. . . . . . . .93
elderly man threading temple marigolds; Sufi devotional
Shopping. . . . . . . . . . . . 93 songs; a boy flying a kite from a rooftop.
Greater Delhi. . . . . . . . 101 So don’t be put off. Delhi is a city that has been repeatedly
Gurgaon (Gurugram). 102 ravaged and reborn, with vestiges of lost empires in almost
every neighbourhood. There’s so much to experience here,
it’s like a country in itself.

Best Places to Eat

¨¨Bukhara (p89)
¨¨Indian Accent (p90)
When to Go
¨¨Masala Library (p88)
Delhi
°C/°F Temp Rainfall inches/mm
¨¨Cafe Lota (p89) 40/104 32/800

¨¨Andhra Pradesh Bhawan

30/86 24/600
Canteen (p88)
20/68 16/400

Best Places
10/50 8/200

to Sleep 0/32
J F M A M J J A S O N D
0

¨¨Lodhi (p84)
¨¨Manor (p85)
Oct–Mar Delhi at May–Aug The Jun–Sep Mon-
its best: it’s warm months to avoid soon season sees
¨¨Madpackers Hostel (p84) with clear skies. – hot, humid and high temperatures
¨¨Stops @ The President Morning fog can uncomfortable. and regular
(p80) play havoc with rain – a sticky
flight schedules. combination.
 57
History garh (the present-day Purana Qila), presided
Delhi is said by Hindus to be the site of an- over by his son, Humayun.
cient Indraprastha, home of the Pandavas Frantic city building continued through-
in the Mahabharata. Excavations near the out the Mughal period. Shah Jahan gained
Purana Qila have revealed evidence of hu- the Peacock Throne in 1627 and raised a
man habitation dating back 3000 years. The new city, Shahjahanabad, centred on the
name Delhi is linked to the Maurya king Red Fort. The Mughal city fell in 1739, to the

D e lh i S i ghts
Dhilu, who ruled the region in the 1st centu- Persian Nadir Shah, and the dynasty went
ry BC, but for most of its existence, the city into steep decline. The last Mughal emperor,
has been known by the multiple different Badahur Shah Zafar, was exiled to Burma
names given to it by its conquerors. (Myanmar) by the British for his role in the
The first city for which clear archaeolog- 1857 First War of Independence; there were
ical evidence remains was Lal Kot, or Qila some new rulers in town.
Rai Pithora, founded by the Hindu king When the British shifted their capital to
Prithviraj Chauhan in the 12th century. The Delhi from increasingly rebellious Calcut-
city fell to Afghan invaders in 1191, and for ta in 1911, it was time for another bout of
the next 600 years, Delhi was ruled by a construction. The architect Edwin Lutyens
succession of Muslim sultans and emper- drew up plans for a new city of wide boule-
ors. The first, Qutub-ud-din Aibak, razed the vards and stately administrative buildings
Hindu city and used its stones to construct to accommodate the colonial government –
Mehrauli and the towering Qutb Minar. New Delhi was born.
Qutub-ud-din Aibak’s ‘Mamluk’ (Slave) In 1947 Partition – the division of In-
dynasty was quickly replaced by the Khilji dia and Pakistan – saw Delhi ripped apart
dynasty, following a coup. The Khiljis con- as many inhabitants fled to the north and
structed a new capital at Siri, northeast of migrants flooded inwards, a trauma from
Mehrauli, supplied with water from the which some say the city has never recovered.
royal tank at Hauz Khas. Following another The modern metropolis certainly faces oth-
coup, the Tughlaq sultans seized the reins, er challenges too – traffic, population, crime
creating a new fortified capital at Tughlaqa- and the deepening chasm between rich and
bad, and two more cities – Jahanpurah and poor. However, the city on the Yamuna River
Firozabad – for good measure. continues to flourish, with its new satellite
The Tughlaq dynasty fell after Tamerlane cities spreading Delhi further and further
stormed through town in 1398, opening the outwards.
door for the Sayyid and Lodi dynasties, the
last of the Delhi sultanates, whose tombs 1 Sights
are scattered around the Lodi Gardens. The Most sights in Delhi are easily accessible by
scene was set for the arrival of the Mughals. metro, though to reach some you’ll have to
Babur, the first Mughal emperor, seized Del- take a rickshaw or taxi from the stop, even
hi in 1526, and a new capital rose at Sher- though it bears the same or similar name

DELHI’S TOP FESTIVALS

To confirm exact dates contact India Tourism Delhi (p97).
Republic Day (h 26 Jan) A spectacular military parade in Rajpath.
Beating of the Retreat (h 29 Jan) More military pageantry in Rajpath.
St.Art (h Dec-Mar) Street art festival.
Independence Day (h 15 Aug) India celebrates its Independence from Britain.
Dussehra (Durga Puja; h Sep/Oct) Hindu celebration of good over evil with parades of
colourful effigies.
Qutb Festival (h Oct/Nov) Sufi singing and classical music and dance at the Qutb Mi-
nar complex.
Diwali (Festival of Light; h Oct/Nov) Fireworks across the city for the Festival of Light.
Delhi International Arts Festival (DIAF; www.diaf.in; h Nov/Dec) Exhibitions, perform-
ing arts, film, literature and culinary events.
 Coronation 58

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59
60
to the sight, eg Qutb Minar and Tughlaqa- Prime Minister makes a speech here every
bad. Note that many places are closed on Independence Day.
Monday. ¨¨Chatta Chowk
(Covered Bazaar) This imperial bazaar used to
1 Old Delhi cater to royal women and glitter with silk
‘Old Delhi’ is roughly equivalent to the the and jewels for sale. Today’s wares are rather
Mughal city of Shahjahanabad. The main more mundane souvenirs.
D e lh i S i ghts

drag is Chandni Chowk, stretching from Red ¨¨Naubat Khana

Fort to Fatehpur Masjid, which is a cacopho- (Drum House) At the eastern end of Chatta
nous tumult of noise, colour and traffic. Nar- Chowk, the arched ‘Drum House’ once ac-
row lanes spiderweb off the street, lined by commodated royal musicians and served as
brilliantly colourful bazaars. The easiest way parking for royal horses and elephants.
to get around is by cycle rickshaw or on foot. ¨¨Indian War Memorial Museum
(h 10am-5pm Tue-Sun) Upstairs at Naubat
oRed Fort FORT
Khana is the Indian War Memorial Museum,
(Map p64; Indian/foreigner ₹30/500, with museum
which contains ferocious-looking and fasci-
ticket ₹35/500, video ₹25, audio guide in Hindi/
nating historical weaponry.
English or Korean ₹69/115; h dawn-dusk Tue-Sun,
museums 10am-5pm; m Chandni Chowk) Found- ¨¨Museum on India’s Struggle for
ed by Emperor Shah Jahan and just a few Freedom
decades older than the Palace of Versailles (h 10am-5pm Tue-Sun) Housed in ugly British-­
in France, this fort took 10 years to construct built barracks, the Museum on India’s Strug-
(1638–48). It had the decapitated bodies of gle for Freedom tells the story of the struggle
prisoners built into the foundations for luck, against the British that led to Independence.
and is surrounded by an 18m-high wall. It ¨¨Salimgarh
once overlooked the Yamuna River, which (Map p64; h 10am-5pm Tue-Sun) This fort was
has now shrunk to some distance away. A established by Salim Shah Suri in 1546, so
tree-lined waterway, known as nahr-i-bihis- predates its grander neighbour. Salimgarh
ht (river of paradise), ran out of the fort and was later used as a prison, first by Aurang-
along Chandni Chowk, fed by the Yamuna. zeb and later by the British; you can visit the
Shah Jahan never took up full residence ruined mosque and a small museum.
here, after his disloyal son, Aurangzeb, im- ¨¨Diwan-i-Am
prisoned him in Agra Fort. This arcade of sandstone columns was the
The last Mughal emperor of Delhi, Baha- hall of public audience, where the emper-
dur Shah Zafar, was flushed from the Red or greeted guests and dignitaries from a
Fort in 1857 and exiled to Burma (Myan- throne on the raised marble platform, which
mar) for his role in the First War of Inde- is backed by fine pietra-dura (inlaid stone)
pendence. The British destroyed buildings work that features Orpheus, incongruously,
and gardens inside the fortress walls and and is thought to be Florentine.
replaced them with ugly barrack blocks for
the colonial army. ¨¨Diwan-i-Khas
The fort is the setting for an evening The Hall of Private Audience was used for
sound and light show (Map p64; www. bowing and scraping to the emperor. Above
theashokgroup.com; Tue-Fri ₹60, Sat & Sun ₹80; the corner arches to the north and south is
h in Hindi/English 7/8.30pm Feb-Apr, Sep & Oct, inscribed in Urdu, ‘If there is paradise on the
7.30/9pm May-Aug, 6/7.30pm Nov-Jan), narrated earth – it is this, it is this, it is this’. Nadir
by Amitabh Bachchan. Shah looted the legendary jewel-studded
The audio guide tour, by acclaimed com- Peacock Throne from here in 1739. Bahadar
pany Narrowcasters, is worthwhile as it Shah Zafar became the last Mughal emperor
brings the site to life. here in May 1857, but was tried (here, again)
by the British seven months later following
¨¨Lahore Gate
the Mutiny, and exiled.
(Map p64) The main gate is hidden by a de-
South of the Diwan-i-Khas is the dain-
fensive bastion built in front by Shah Jahan’s ty Khas Mahal (Special Palace), containing
son Aurangzeb. During the struggle for in- the emperor’s private apartments, shielded
dependence, nationalists promised to raise from prying eyes by lace-like carved marble
the Indian flag over the gate, an ambition screens. An artificial stream, the nahr-i-bi-
that became a reality on 15 August 1947. The
 61
hisht (river of paradise), once flowed treating 30,000 birds a year. Squirrels and
through the apartments to the adjacent vegetarian birds are admitted; predators are
Rang Mahal (Palace of Colour), home to the treated as outpatients. Remove shoes and
emperor’s chief wife. The exterior of the pal- leather items before entering the temple.
ace was once lavishly painted; inside is an
elegant lotus-shaped fountain. Sunehri Masjid MOSQUE
(Golden Mosque; Map p64; h dawn-dusk;
¨¨Mumtaz Mahal
m Chandni Chowk) Built in 1721, this mosque

D e lh i S i ghts
South of the Rang Mahal is this pavilion, has gilded domes, hence its name. In 1739,
thought to have been built for Arjumand the Persian invader Nadir Shah stood on
Banu Begum (also known as Mumtaz Ma- the roof and watched his soldiers massacre
hal) – the Taj Mahal is her mausoleum. To- thousands of Delhi’s inhabitants.
day it houses the Museum of Archaeology
(h 10am-5pm Tue-Sun), with imperial objects Sisganj Gurdwara SIKH TEMPLE
from those of Akbar to the rose-water sprin- (Map p64; Chandni Chowk) The icing-­sugar-
klers and calligraphy of the last emperor, white 18th-century Sisganj Gurdwara marks
Badapur Shah. the martrydom site of the ninth Sikh guru,
¨¨Royal Baths Tegh Bahadur, executed by Aurangzeb in
Closed to the public, the royal hammams 1675 for resisting conversion to Islam. A ban-
once contained a sauna and hot baths for yan tree marks the spot where he was killed.
the royal family. Fatehpuri Masjid MOSQUE
¨¨Moti Masjid (Map p64; Chandni Chowk; h 5am-9.30pm;
(Pearl Mosque) This small white mosque was m Chandni Chowk) Built by Fatehpuri Begum,
built by Aurangzeb as his private place of one of Shah Jahan’s wives, this 17th-centu-
worship. The outer walls align with the fort ry mosque is a haven of tranquillity after
walls, while the inner walls are askew to the frantic streets outside. The central pool
align with Mecca. It is closed to visitors. was taken from a noble house, hence the
¨¨Shahi Burj elaborate shape. After the 1857 uprising
The Shahi Burj is a three-storey octagonal the mosque was sold to a Hindu nobleman
tower that was Shah Jahan’s favoured work- by the British for ₹19,000 and returned to
place. From here he planned the running of
his empire. In front of the tower is what re-
mains of an elegant formal garden, centred THE PIGEONS OF OLD DELHI
on the Zafar Mahal, a sandstone pavilion
surrounded by a deep, empty water tank. Pigeon rearing (kabootar bazi) is a
popular hobby in Old Delhi, among
Chandni Chowk AREA those who can afford it – it costs from
(Map p64; m Chandni Chowk) Old Delhi’s main ₹5000 per bird. Some pigeons are
drag is lined by Jain, Hindu and Sikh tem- trained to fight, some are fast, some
ples, plus a church, with the Fatehpuri are noted for their endurance. The
Masjid at one end. Tree-lined and elegant practice first gained popularity during
in Mughal times, the thoroughfare is now Mughal rule, when the birds were used
mind-bendingly chaotic, with tiny little an- for communication, and when Shahja-
cient bazaars tentacling off it. In the Mughal hanabad was first built there were rival
era, Chandni Chowk centred on a pool that pigeon clubs all over the city. It’s said
reflected the moon, hence the name, ‘moon- that Nadir Shah’s Delhi massacre was
light place’. The main street is almost impos- sparked after a row over the sale of a
sible to cross, full as it is of cars, hawkers, pigeon between one of his soldiers and
motorcycles, rickshaws and porters. a local fancier. Today there are still so
many keepers that flying has to follow
Digambara Jain Temple JAIN TEMPLE
a timetable so that flocks don’t clash.
(Map p64; Chandni Chowk; h 6am-noon & 6-9pm;
There are strict hierarchies among the
m Chandni Chowk) Opposite the Red Fort is
owners; it takes more than 20 years
the red sandstone Digambara Jain Tem-
to become a Khalifa (master pigeon
ple, built in 1658. It houses a fascinating
keeper). The most spectacular event, of
bird hospital (Map p64; donations appreciated;
pigeon racing (haqaana), takes place on
h 10am-5pm) established in 1956 to further
Republic Day.
the Jain principle of preserving all life,
Red Fort

ABIGAIL HOLE ©
HIGHLIGHTS
The main entrance to the Red Fort is
through 1�L ahore Gate – the bastion
in front of it was built by Aurangzeb for
increased security. You can still see bullet
marks on the gate, dating from 1857, the 9
First War of Independence, when the Salimgarh
Salimgarh is the 16th-century
Indian army rose up against the British.
fort built by Salim Shah Sur. It
was constructed on an island
Walk through the Chatta Chowk (Covered
of the Yamuna River and only
Bazaar), which once sold silks and recently opened to the public.
jewellery to the nobility; beyond it lies It is still partly used by the
Indian army.
2�Naubat Khana, a russet-red build-
ing, which houses Hathi Pol (Elephant
Gate), so called because visitors used to
dismount from their elephants or horses
here as a sign of respect. From here it’s
straight on to the 3�Diwan-i-Am, the Hall 8
of Public Audiences. Behind this are the
private palaces, the 4�Khas Mahal and
the 5�Diwan-i-Khas. Entry to this Hall of
Private Audiences, the fort’s most expen-
sive building, was only permitted to the
officials of state. The artificial stream the
Nahr-i-Behisht ('stream of paradise') used
to run a cooling channel of water through
all these buildings. Nearby is the
6�Moti Masjid (Pearl Mosque) and Museum on
south is the 7�Mumtaz Mahal, housing India's Struggle
for Freedom
the Museum of Archaeology, or you can
head north, where the Red Fort gardens Chatta
are dotted by palatial pavilions and old Chowk
British barracks. Here you’ll find the
8�baoli, a spookily deserted water tank.
Another five minutes’ walk – across a
road, then a railway bridge – brings you to Lahore Gate
the island fortress of 9�Salimgarh. Lahore Gate is particularly
signicant, as it was here that 1
Jawaharlal Nehru raised
the rst tricolour ag of Naubat Khana
independent India in 1947. The Naubat Khana
(Drum House) is
carved in oral
designs and once
featured musicians
playing in the upper
gallery. It housed
Hathi Pol (Elephant
Gate), where visitors
TOP TIPS dismounted from
their horse or
 To avoid crowds, get here early or elephant.
late in the day; avoid weekends and
FEYGINFOTO / SHUTTERSTOCK ©

public holidays.
 An atmospheric way to see the
Red Fort is by night; you can visit
ABIGAIL HOLE ©

after dark if you attend the nightly

Sound & Light Show.
 CARLOS NETO / SHUTTERSTOCK ©

KIMBERLEY COOLE/GETTY IMAGES ©

Baoli
The Red Fort step
well is seldom visited
and is a hauntingly
deserted place, even
more so when
you consider its
chambers were used
as cells by the British
from August 1942.

Moti Masjid
The Moti Masjid (Pearl Mosque) was built by
Aurangzeb in 1662 for his personal use. The
domes were originally covered in copper, but the Diwan-i-Khas
copper was removed and sold by the British. This was the most expensive building in the fort,
Baidon consisting of white marble decorated with inlay
Hammam
Pavilion work of cornelian and other stones. The screens
Zafar Mahal 5 overlooking what was once the river (now the ring
road) were lled with coloured glass.
6 Rang
Mahal
4
Mumtaz
Mahal
7

PIT STOP
To refuel, head
2 to Gali Paratha
Wali, a foodstall-
lined lane off
Chandni Chowk
noted for its
many varieties
of freshly made
paratha (tradi-
tional at bread).
NO

Delhi Gate
RT
H

Diwan-i-Am
These red sandstone columns were once covered in shell plaster, as polished
Khas Mahal
and smooth as ivory, and in hot weather heavy red curtains were hung around Most spectacular in the Emperor’s private
the columns to block out the sun. It's believed the panels behind the marble apartments is a beautiful marble screen at the
throne were created by Florentine jeweller Austin de Bordeaux. northern end of the rooms; the ‘Scales of Justice’
are carved above it, suspended over a crescent,
surrounded by stars and clouds.
POWEROFFOREVER / GETTY IMAGES ©

ABIGAIL HOLE ©
64

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66

Old Delhi
æ Top Sights 40 Stops @ The President...........................G5
1 Jama Masjid..............................................F4
2 Red Fort.................................................... G3 ú Eating
41 Al-Jawahar ............................................... F4
æ Sights Chor Bizarre................................... (see 37)
3 Bird Hospital.............................................F3 42 Gali Paratha Wali ..................................... F3
D e lh i S i ghts

4 Chandni Chowk........................................F3 43 Haldiram's ................................................ F3

5 Chatta Chowk.......................................... G3 44 Jalebiwala................................................. F3
6 Digambara Jain Temple..........................F3 45 Karim's...................................................... F4
7 Diwan-i-Am .............................................. G3 Lakhori............................................ (see 35)
8 Diwan-i-Khas ........................................... H2 46 Moti Mahal................................................G5
9 Fatehpuri Masjid ......................................E3 47 Natraj Dahi Balle Wala ............................ F3
10 Feroz Shah Kotla..................................... H6
11 Gandhi Darshan ...................................... H6 û Drinking & Nightlife
12 Gandhi Memorial .................................... H6 48 24/7 .......................................................... E7
13 Hawa Mahal ............................................. H6
14 Indian War Memorial Museum.............. G3 ý Entertainment
15 Jhandewalan Hanuman Temple........... A5 49 Delite Cinema........................................... F5
16 Khas Mahal .............................................. H2 50 Sound & Light Show................................G3
17 Lahore Gate............................................. G3
18 Lakshmi Narayan Temple.......................A7 þ Shopping
19 Moti Masjid ...............................................H1 51 Aap Ki Pasand (San Cha).......................G5
20 Mumtaz Mahal ........................................ H2 52 Ballimaran ................................................ E3
21 Museum of Archaeology........................ H2 53 Chandni Chowk........................................ F3
22 Museum on India's Struggle for 54 Chawri Bazaar..........................................E4
Freedom................................................ G3 55 Dariba Kalan............................................. F3
23 National Bal Bhavan ............................... G7 56 Daryaganj Kitab Bazaar..........................G5
24 National Gandhi Museum......................H6 57 Karol Bagh Market ..................................A4
Naubat Khana ................................ (see 14) 58 Kinari Bazaar............................................ F3
25 Nicholson Cemetery................................ E1 59 Musical Instrument Shops.....................G5
26 Raj Ghat.................................................... H5 60 Nai Sarak ..................................................E3
27 Rang Mahal.............................................. H2
28 Royal Baths...............................................H1 ï Transport
29 Salimgarh................................................. G2 Delhi Transport Corporation .......(see 62)
30 Shahi Burj ................................................ G3 Haryana Roadways .......................(see 62)
31 Shankar's International Dolls 61 Jhandewalan Cycle Market....................B5
Museum ................................................ G7 62 Kashmere Gate Inter State Bus
32 Sisganj Gurdwara ....................................F3 Terminal..................................................F1
33 Spice Market ........................................... D3 63 Lalli Motorbike Exports...........................A4
34 Sunehri Masjid ........................................ G4 64 Prepaid Autorickshaws ..........................E2
Punjab Roadways..........................(see 62)
ÿ Sleeping Rajasthan Roadways ....................(see 62)
35 Haveli Dharampura..................................F3 Rajasthan State Road
36 Hotel Bombay Orient...............................F4 Transport Corporation ..............(see 62)
37 Hotel Broadway ...................................... G5 Uttar Pradesh Roadways .............(see 62)
38 Hotel New City Palace.............................F4 Uttar Pradesh State Road
39 Maidens Hotel .......................................... E1 Transport Corporation ..............(see 62)

Muslim worship in exchange for four villag- and red-sandstone ‘Friday Mosque’ was Shah
es 20 years later. Jahan’s final architectural triumph, built be-
tween 1644 and 1658. The four watchtowers
oJama Masjid MOSQUE were used for security. There are two mina-
(Friday Mosque; Map p64; camera & video each rets standing 40m high, one of which can be
₹300, tower ₹100; h non-Muslims 8am-1hr before climbed for amazing views. All of the three
sunset, minaret 9am-5.30pm; m Chawri Bazaar) gates allow access to the mosque.
A beautiful pocket of calm at the heart of The eastern gate was originally for im-
Old Delhi’s mayhem, India’s largest mosque perial use only. Buy a ticket at the entrance
is built on a 10m elevation, towering above to climb 121 steps up the narrow southern
the surrounding hubbub. It can hold a minaret (notices say that unaccompanied
mind-blowing 25,000 people. The marble women are not permitted). From the top of
 67
the minaret, you can see how architect Ed- cupy the underground chambers beneath
win Lutyens incorporated the mosque into the mosque. Shoes should be removed when
his design of New Delhi – the Jama Masjid, entering the mosque and Hawa Mahal.
Connaught Place and Sansad Bhavan (Par-
liament House) are in a direct line. Shankar’s International
Visitors should remove their shoes at the Dolls Museum MUSEUM

top of the stairs. There’s no charge to enter (Map p64; % 011-3316970; www.childrensbook
trust.com; Nehru House, 4 Bahadur Shah Zafar Marg;

D e lh i S i ghts
the mosque, but you’ll have to pay the cam-
era charge whether you want to use your adult/child ₹17/6; h 10am-6pm Tue-Sun; m ITO) Set
camera or not. up by K Shankar Pillai, a political cartoonist,
who started collecting dolls in 1950, this mu-
Raj Ghat MONUMENT seum has an impressive if quirky collection of
(Map p64; h 10am-8pm; m Jama Masjid) F 6500 costumed dolls from 85 countries.
On the banks of the Yamuna River, this
peaceful park contains a simple black-marble National Bal Bhavan MUSEUM

platform marking the spot where Mahatma (Map p64; www.nationalbalbhavan.nic.in; Kotla
Gandhi was cremated following his assassi- Marg; adult/child ₹20/free; h 9am-5.30pm Tue-
nation in 1948. This memorial (Map p64) is a Sat; m Mandi House) Delhi’s children’s mu-
thought-provoking spot, inscribed with what seum is a charming hodgepodge, with a
are said to have been Gandhi’s final words, polychrome-painted toy train ride, parrots,
Hai Ram (Oh, God). Every Friday (the day he guinea pigs, rabbits and a small aquarium.
died) commemorative prayers are held here Nicholson Cemetery CEMETERY
at 5pm, as well as on 2 October and 30 Janu- (Map p64; Lala Hardev Sahai Marg; h 8am-6pm Apr-
ary, his birth and death anniversaries. Sep, 9am-5pm Oct-Mar; m Kashmere Gate) Close
Across Kisan Ghat Rd is the Gandhi Dar- to Kashmere Gate, this fascinating, forgotten
shan (Map p64; h 10am-5pm Mon-Sat; m In- cemetery is the last resting place for hun-
draprastha) F, a pavilion displaying photos dreds of Delhi’s colonial-era residents, many
relating to the Mahatma. Nearby memorials of whom perished in childhood. The most
commemorate where Jawaharlal Nehru, In- famous (ex)-resident is the eponymous Brig-
dira Gandhi and Rajiv Gandhi were cremated. adier General John Nicholson, who died from
National Gandhi Museum MUSEUM
injuries sustained during the 1857 First War
(Map p64; % 011-23310168; http://gandhimuseum. of Independence. He had a formidable rep-
org; Raj Ghat; h 9.30am-5.30pm Tue-Sun; m Jama utation, and was so admired by some of his
Masjid) F An interesting museum preserv- troops that he inspired a religious cult, but he
ing some of Gandhi’s personal belongings, was also contemptuous of the ‘natives’ and sa-
including his spectacles and even two of his distically violent towards his adversaries.
teeth. Movingly and somewhat macabrely, Take the metro to see the British-­erected
also here are the dhoti, shawl and watch he Mutiny Memorial (Rani Jhansi Rd; m Pulban-
was wearing when he was assassinated, and gash) and Ashoka Pillar (Rani Jhansi Rd; m Kash-
one of the bullets that killed him. mere Gate), transported here by Feroz Shah.

Feroz Shah Kotla HISTORIC SITE

Coronation Durbar Site MONUMENT

(Map p64; Bahadur Shah Zafar Marg; Indian/ (Shanti Swaroop Tyagi Marg; m Model Town) This
foreigner ₹15/200, video ₹25; h dawn-dusk; historical oddity is worth seeking out if you
m ITO) Firozabad, the fifth city of Delhi, was
like exploring forgotten corners. Around
built by Feroz Shah Tughlaq in 1354, the first 10km north of Old Delhi, a lone obelisk
city here to be built on the river. Only the marks the site where King George V was de-
fortress remains, with crumbling walls pro- clared emperor of India in 1911, and where
tecting the Jama Masjid (Friday mosque), a the great durbars (fairs) were held to honour
baoli (step-well), and the pyramid-like Hawa India’s British overlords in 1877 and 1903. A
Mahal (Map p64), topped by a 13m-high few marble busts of British officials and a
sandstone Ashoka Pillar inscribed with mammoth statue of George V decorate the
3rd-century-BC Buddhist edicts. There’s an neighbouring park. Take an autorickshaw
otherworldly atmosphere to the ruins. from the metro.
On Thursday afternoon, crowds gather Lakshmi Narayan Temple HINDU TEMPLE
at the mosque to light candles and incense (Birla Mandir; Map p64; Mandir Marg; h 4.30am-
and leave bowls of milk to appease Delhi’s 1.30pm & 2.30-9pm; m Ramakrishna Ashram Marg)
djinns (invisible spirits), who are said to oc- This Orissan-style temple was erected by
68

Connaught Place
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the wealthy industrialist BD Birla in 1939; mons to a series of atmospheric, deity-filled

the main shrine honours Lakshmi, goddess chambers.
of wealth. Gandhi inaugurated the complex
as a temple for all castes; a sign on the gate
says ‘Everyone is Welcome’.
1 Connaught Place Area
Connaught Place AREA
Jhandewalan (Map p68; m Rajiv Chowk) This confusing cir-
Hanuman Temple HINDU TEMPLE cular shopping district was named after
(Map p64; Link Rd, Jhandewalan; h dawn-dusk; George V’s uncle, the Duke of Connaught,
m Jhandewalan) This temple is not to be and fashioned after the Palladian colon-
missed (it’s actually hard to miss) if you’re nades of Bath. Greying, whitewashed, col-
in Karol Bagh. Take a short detour to see the onadded streets radiate out from the central
34m-high Hanuman statue that soars above circle of Rajiv Chowk, with blocks G to N in
the train tracks. Getting up close, there are the outer circle and A to F in the inner circle.
passageways through the mouths of de- Today they mainly harbour brash, largely in-
 69
0 200 m Agrasen ki Baoli MONUMENT
e
# 0 0.1 miles
E F (Map p68; Hailey Lane; h dawn-dusk; m Janpath)
This atmospheric 14th-century step-well
# Minto Bridge
£ was once set in the countryside, till the city
Train Station
grew up around it; 103 steps descend to the
1 bottom, flanked by arched niches. It’s a re-
#
û 15 markable thing to discover among the office
ú
#

D e lh i S i ghts
Shivaji Bridge towers southeast of Connaught Place. It’s
# 11
ú Shankar
l Train Station garnered more attention since it was used as
dia Market
Ra 6 £
# a shelter by Aamir Khan in the 2015 movie
Rd
PK.

M 2
1 New Delhi & Around
oHumayun’s Tomb HISTORIC BUILDING
(Map p72; Mathura Rd; Indian/foreigner/under 15
₹30/500/free, video ₹25; h dawn-dusk; m JLN
21
Stadium) Humayun’s tomb is sublimely well
#
ü proportioned, seeming to float above its
#
þ symmetrical gardens. It’s thought to have
31
inspired the Taj Mahal, which it predates
Ba by 60 years. Constructed for the Mughal
ra 3
k ha
mb emperor in the mid-16th century by Haji
aR Begum, Humayun’s Persian-born wife, the
d
tomb marries Persian and Mughal elements,
¡
#
Barakhamba
with restrained decoration enhancing the
Road architecture. The arched facade is inlaid
with bands of white marble and red sand-
Ka

stone, and the building follows strict rules of

stu

Islamic geometry, with an emphasis on the

rba

4
number eight.
Ga

The tomb has had six years of restoration,

nd
hi

and a new visitor centre is due to open at

Ma

8ú
# the site. The surrounding gardens contain
rg

# ò
# the tombs of the emperor’s favourite barber
– an entrusted position given the proximity
á1
# of the razor to the imperial throat – and Haji
5 Begum. This was where the last Mughal em-
d peror, Bahadur Shah Zafar, took refuge be-
yR
H aile fore being captured and exiled by the British
in 1857.
E F To the right as you enter the complex, Isa
Khan’s tomb (Map p72; h dawn-dusk) is a fine
example of Lodi-era architecture, construct-
terchangeable but popular bars, and inter-
ed in the 16th century. Further south is the
national chainstores, plus a few good hotels
monumental Khan-i-Khanan’s tomb (p75),
and restaurants. Touts are rampant.
plundered in Mughal times to build Safdar-
Jantar Mantar HISTORIC SITE jang’s tomb.
(Map p68; Sansad Marg; Indian/foreigner ₹25/200,
video ₹25; h dawn-dusk; m Patel Chowk) This is
oHazrat Nizam-ud-din Dargah SHRINE
(Map p72; off Lodi Rd; h 24hr; m JLN Stadium)
one of five observatories built by Maharaja
Jai Singh II, ruler of Jaipur. Constructed in Visiting the marble shrine of Muslim Sufi
1725, Jantar Mantar (derived from the San- saint Nizam-ud-din Auliya is Delhi’s most
skrit word for ‘instrument’, but which has mystical, magical experience. The dargah is
also become the Hindi word for ‘abracadab- hidden away in a tangle of bazaars selling
ra’) is a collection of curving geometric build- rose petals, attars (perfumes) and offerings,
ings that are carefully calibrated to monitor and on Thursday evenings from sunset you
the movement of the stars and planets. can hear Sufis singing qawwali (Islamic de-
70

Connaught Place
æ Sights 19 Wenger's...................................................C2
1 Agrasen ki Baoli .......................................F5 Zāffrān .............................................. (see 5)
2 Connaught Place..................................... D2
3 Jantar Mantar.......................................... C5 û Drinking & Nightlife
1911 .................................................... (see 6)
Ø Activities, Courses & Tours 20 Aqua ..........................................................B4
D e lh i S i ghts

4 Delhi Tourism & Transport Atrium, Imperial............................... (see 6)

Development Corporation 21 Cha Bar .....................................................E3
Booth..................................................... B3 22 Indian Coffee House................................B3
23 Keventer's Milkshakes............................C2
ÿ Sleeping 24 Unplugged ................................................ D1
5 Hotel Palace Heights.............................. D2
6 Imperial .................................................... C5 ý Entertainment
7 Radisson Blu Marina................................C1 25 Regal Cinema...........................................C3

ú Eating þ Shopping
8 Caara Cafe ................................................E4 26 Central Cottage Industries
9 Coffee Home ........................................... B3 Emporium..............................................D5
10 Farzi Cafe................................................. D2 27 Janpath & Tibetan Markets ...................D4
11 Haldiram's................................................. E1 28 Kamala......................................................A3
12 Hotel Saravana Bhavan ......................... D5 29 Khadi Gramodyog Bhawan ....................B3
13 Hotel Saravana Bhavan ......................... B2 30 M Ram & Sons .........................................D2
14 Kerala House ........................................... B5 31 Oxford Bookstore.................................... E3
15 Naturals..................................................... E1 32 People Tree ..............................................C3
16 Nizam's Kathi Kabab...............................D1 33 Rikhi Ram ................................................. C1
17 Rajdhani ................................................... D3 34 State Emporiums ....................................A3
18 Sagar Ratna..............................................D1

votional singing), amid crowds of devotees. the 15th-century Bara Gumbad (Map p72)
The ascetic Nizam-ud-din died in 1325 at the tomb and mosque, the strikingly different
ripe old age of 92. His doctrine of tolerance tombs of Mohammed Shah (Map p72) and
made him popular not only with Muslims, Sikander Lodi (Map p72; m JLN Stadium), and
but with Hindus, Sikhs and Buddhists as the Athpula (eight-piered) bridge across the
well. lake, which dates from Emperor Akbar’s
Later kings and nobles wanted to be bur- reign.
ied close to Nizam-ud-din, hence the num-
ber of nearby Mughal tombs. Other tombs Rajpath AREA

in the compound include the graves of Ja- (Map p72; m Central Secretariat) Rajpath (King-
hanara (daughter of Shah Jahan) and the re- sway) is a vast parade linking India Gate to
nowned Urdu poet Amir Khusru. Scattered the offices of the Indian government. Built
around the surrounding alleyways are more on an imperial scale between 1914 and 1931,
tombs and a huge baoli (step-well). Entry this complex was designed by Edwin Lu-
is free, but visitors may be asked to make a tyens and Herbert Baker, and underlined
donation. the ascendance of the British rulers. Yet just
A tour with the Hope Project (p79), which 16 years later, the Brits were out on their ear
ends at the shrine, is recommended for and Indian politicians were pacing the cor-
some background. ridors of power.
At the western end of Rajpath, the official
Lodi Gardens PARK residence of the president of India, Rash-
(Map p72; Lodi Rd; h 6am-8pm Oct-Mar, 5am-8pm trapati Bhavan (p71), now partially open to
Apr-Sep; m Khan Market or Jor Bagh) Delhi’s love- the public via guided tour, is flanked by the
liest escape was originally named after the mirror-image dome-crowned North Sec-
wife of the British Resident, Lady Willing- retariat (Map p72) and South Secretariat
don, who had two villages cleared in 1936 (Map p72), housing government ministries.
in order to landscape a park to remind her The Indian parliament meets nearby at the
of home. Today named after their Lodi-era Sansad Bhavan (Parliament House; Map p72;
tombs, the gardens, favoured getaway for Sansard Marg), a circular, colonnaded edifice
Delhi’s elite and courting couples, contain at the end of Sansad Marg.
 71
At Rajpath’s eastern end is mighty India ings, medieval woodcarvings, textiles and
Gate (Map p72; h 24hr). This 42m-high stone musical instruments.
memorial arch, designed by Lutyens, pays Allow at least two hours. Bring identifi-
tribute to around 90,000 Indian army sol- cation to obtain an audio guide (included
diers who died in WWI, the Northwest Fron- in the foreigner ticket price; ₹150 extra for
tier operations and the 1919 Anglo-Afghan Indian tourists). There’s also a cafe.
War.
National Gallery of Modern Art GALLERY

D e lh i S i ghts
Rashtrapati Bhavan HISTORIC BUILDING (Map p72; % 011-23386111; www.ngmaindia.gov.
(President’s House; Map p72; % 011-23015321; in; Jaipur House, Dr Zakir Hussain Marg; Indian/
www.presidentofindia.nic.in/visit-to-rashtrapati-­ foreigner ₹20/500; h 10am-5pm Tue-Sun; m Khan
bhavan.htm; ₹50, online reservation required; Market) Housed in the Maharaja of Jaipur’s
h 9am-4pm Fri-Sun; m Central Secretariat) For- domed former palace (built in 1936), Delhi’s
merly home to the British Viceroy, the Pres- flagship art gallery displays collections trac-
ident’s House has 340 rooms, with 2.5km of ing the development of Indian art from the
corridors, and it’s fascinating to take a peek mid-19th century to the present day, from
inside. Your guided visit takes in the domed ‘Company Paintings’ created by Indian art-
Durbar Hall, the intimate presidential li- ists to please their British rulers to the art-
brary and the gilded Ashoka Hall. works of Nobel Prize–winner Rabindranath
Tagore. Photography is prohibited.
Rashtrapati Bhavan Museum MUSEUM
(Map p72; % 011-23792177; www.presidentofindia. Gandhi Smriti MUSEUM
nic.in; gate 30, Mother Theresa Crescent Rd; tour (Map p72; % 011-23012843; 5 Tees Jan Marg;
₹50; h 9am-4pm Fri-Sun; m Patel Chowk) Oc- h 10am-5pm Tue-Sun, closed every 2nd Sat of
cupying the presidential stables and garag- month; m Racecourse) F This poignant
es, this swish museum has state-of-the-art memorial to Mahatma Gandhi is in Bir-
displays including a virtual-reality walk la House, where he was shot dead on the
with Gandhi and 3D images of presidential grounds by a Hindu zealot on 30 January
speeches, plus vehicles, such as a Mercedes 1948, after campaigning against intercom-
given to Rajiv Gandhi by the King of Jordan. munal violence.
Book ahead online. The house itself is where Gandhi spent
his last 144 days. The exhibits include rooms
Mughal Gardens GARDENS
preserved just as Gandhi left them, a de-
(Map p72; h usually 9.30am-4pm Tue-Sun mid- tailed account of his life and last 24 hours,
Feb–mid-Mar; m Central Secretariat) F The and vivid miniature dioramas depicting
extravagance of these glorious gardens is scenes from his life.
such that Mountbatten, India’s last viceroy,
was said to have employed 418 gardeners. Indira Gandhi Memorial Museum MUSEUM
There are fountains, cypress, bougainvil- (Map p72; % 011-23010094; 1 Safdarjang Rd;
lea, climbing roses, symmetrical lawns and h 9.30am-4.45pm Tue-Sun; m Racecourse) F
wandering peacocks. If you’re in town when In the residence of controversial former
the gardens are in flower (the same months prime minister Indira Gandhi is this inter-
they’re open), they’re not to be missed. esting museum devoted to her life and fami-
ly, India’s Kennedys. It displays her personal
National Museum MUSEUM
effects, including the blood-stained sari she
(Map p72; % 011-23019272; www.nationalmuseum was wearing when she was assassinated in
india.gov.in; Janpath; Indian/foreigner ₹20/650, 1984. Many rooms are preserved as they
camera Indian/foreigner ₹20/300; h 10am-5pm were, providing a window into the family’s
Tue-Sun, free guided tour 10.30am & 2.30pm Tue-Fri, life. An exhibit at the rear charts the life of
10.30am, 11.30am & 2.30pm Sat & Sun; m Central Indira’s son, Rajiv, who met a similarly vio-
Secretariat) This glorious if dusty museum is lent end and was assassinated in 1991.
full of treasures. Mind-bogglingly ancient,
sophisticated figurines from the Harappan Nehru Memorial Museum MUSEUM
civilisation, almost 5000 years old, include (Map p72; % 011-23016734; www.nehrumemorial.
the remarkable Dancing Girl, and there are nic.in; Teen Murti Rd; h 9am-5.30pm Tue-Sun;
also some fine ceramics from the even older m Udyog Bhawan) F Built for the British
Nal civilisation. Other items include Buddha commander-in-chief and previously called
relics, exquisite jewellery, miniature paint- ‘Flagstaff House’, the stately Teen Murti
Bhavan was later the official residence of
72

New Delhi & Around

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A B C D

Jawaharlal Nehru (India’s first prime minis- cent planetarium (Map p72; % 011-23014504;
ter). It’s now a museum devoted to Nehru’s life www.nehruplanetarium.org; 45min show adult/child
and work; the bedroom, study and drawing ₹60/40; h shows English 11.30am & 3pm, Hindi
room are preserved as if he’d just popped out. 1.30pm & 4pm), which has shows about the
On the grounds is a 14th-century hunting stars in Hindi and English.
lodge, built by Feroz Shah, and a more re-
 73
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SOUTH
EXTENSION DEFENCE NEHRU LAJPAT
PARK I COLONY NAGAR NAGAR
E F G H

Purana Qila FORT met his end in 1556, tumbling down the
(Old Fort; Map p72; % 011-24353178; Mathura Rd; steps of the Sher Mandal, which he used as
Indian/foreigner ₹5/200, video ₹25, sound & light a library. The fort had been built by Afghan
show adult/child ₹100/50; h dawn-dusk; m Praga- ruler Sher Shah (1538–45), during his brief
ti Maidan) The unimaginatively named ‘Old ascendancy over Humayun. It’s well worth
Fort’ is where Mughal Emperor Humayun a visit, with its peaceful garden studded
74

New Delhi & Around

æ Top Sights 29 Delhi Golf Club .........................................G4
1 Gurdwara Bangla Sahib ..........................D1 30 Hope Project ............................................G5
2 Hazrat Nizam-ud-din Dargah................ G5 Lodhi Spa........................................ (see 35)
3 Humayun's Tomb ................................... H4 31 Torch.........................................................H5

æ Sights ÿ Sleeping
D e lh i S i ghts

4 Bara Gumbad ...........................................E4 32 Bloom Rooms @ Link Rd........................G6

5 Crafts Museum ....................................... G2 33 Claridges...................................................E4
6 Gandhi Smriti ...........................................E4 34 Devna ........................................................G3
7 India Gate..................................................F2 35 Lodhi .........................................................G5
8 Indira Gandhi Memorial Museum......... D4 36 Lutyens Bungalow................................... E5
9 Isa Khan's Tomb ..................................... H4 37 Zaza Stay..................................................H5
10 Khairul Manazil........................................ G3
11 Khan-i-Khanan's Tomb .......................... H5 ú Eating
12 Lodi Gardens ............................................E5 38 Alkauser....................................................B3
13 Mohammed Shah's Tomb ......................E5 Altitude Cafe ..................................(see 62)
14 Mughal Gardens...................................... C2 39 Andhra Pradesh Bhawan Canteen........ F2
15 National Gallery of Modern Art ..............F3 40 Basil & Thyme..........................................G4
16 National Museum.....................................E3 41 Bukhara ....................................................A4
17 National Rail Museum ............................ B5 42 Cafe Lota ..................................................G2
18 National Zoological Gardens................. G3 Chicken Inn..................................... (see 52)
19 Nehru Memorial Museum...................... C3 43 Chor Bizarre............................................. F3
Nehru Planetarium ........................ (see 19) 44 Dhaba........................................................E4
20 North Secretariat.................................... D2 Diva Spiced ....................................(see 62)
21 Purana Qila .............................................. G3 45 Gujarat Bhawan .......................................C4
22 Rajpath ......................................................E2 Gulati............................................... (see 52)
23 Rashtrapati Bhavan................................ C2 Havemore....................................... (see 52)
24 Rashtrapati Bhavan Museum ............... C2 46 Karim's......................................................G5
25 Safdarjang's Tomb ................................. D5 47 Kebab Stands...........................................G4
26 Sansad Bhavan ....................................... D2 48 La Bodega................................................. F4
27 Sikander Lodi's Tomb .............................E4 49 Lodi Garden Restaurant ......................... E5
28 South Secretariat ................................... D2 50 Masala Library ......................................... E2
51 Nagaland House ......................................E4
Ø Activities, Courses & Tours 52 Pandara Market....................................... F3
Aura ................................................. (see 61) Perch...............................................(see 48)

with well-preserved ancient red-stone mon- haveli (traditional house). Artisans sell their
uments, including the intricately patterned products in the rear courtyard. The museum
Qila-i-Kuhran Mosque (Mosque of Sher includes the excellent Cafe Lota (p89) and a
Shah). very good shop.
A popular boating lake has been created
from Purana Qila’s former moat, with peda- National Rail Museum MUSEUM

los for hire. (Map p72; % 011-26881816; Service Rd, Chanak-

Across busy Mathura Road are more rel- yapuri; adult/child ₹20/10, video ₹100; h 10am-
ics from the city of Shergarh, including the 5pm Tue-Sun; m Safdarjung) A contender for
beautiful Khairul Manazil mosque (Map one of Delhi’s best (and best-value) muse-
p72), still used by local Muslims and fa- ums, the National Rail Museum has steam
voured haunt of flocks of pigeons. locos and carriages spread across 11 acres.
Among the venerable bogies are the former
Crafts Museum MUSEUM Viceregal Dining Car, and the Maharaja of
(Map p72; % 011-23371641; Bhairon Marg; h 10am- Mysore’s rolling saloon. The new indoor
5pm Tue-Sun; m Pragati Maidan) F Much gallery includes some hands-on exhibits,
of this lovely museum is outside, including a miniature railway, and three simulators
tree-shaded carvings and buildings. Dis- (weekends only). A toy train (adult/child
plays celebrate the traditional crafts of In- ₹20/10) chuffs around the grounds.
dia, with some beautiful textiles on display
indoors, such as embroidery from Kashmir National Zoological Gardens ZOO

and cross-stitch from Punjab. Highlights (Map p72; % 011-24359825; www.nzpnewdelhi.gov.

include an exquisite reconstructed Gujarati in; Mathura Rd; adult/child Indian ₹40/20, foreigner
 75

Pindi.................................................(see 52) 66 Bangladeshi High Commission .............A5

53 Sagar Ratna............................................. C4 67 Bhutanese Embassy ...............................B5
54 Sana-di-ge ............................................... B4 68 British High Commission .......................C4
Sodabottleopenerwala.................. (see 61) 69 Canadian High Commission ..................B5
55 Triveni Terrace Cafe................................ F1 70 Chinese Embassy....................................C4
71 Dr Ram Manohar Lohia Hospital........... C1

D e lh i S i ghts
û Drinking & Nightlife 72 East West Medical Centre......................E4
Café Turtle ......................................(see 59) 73 French Embassy......................................C4
Café Turtle ...................................... (see 61) 74 German Embassy....................................B5
75 India Post.................................................. D1
ý Entertainment 76 Irish Embassy ..........................................B4
56 Habitat World ...........................................F5 77 Israeli Embassy........................................E4
57 India International Centre.......................E4 78 Japanese Embassy .................................C5
79 Malaysian High Commission .................C5
þ Shopping 80 Myanmar Embassy .................................C4
58 Aap Ki Pasand (San Cha) ...................... C4 81 Nepali Embassy........................................F1
Anand Stationers........................... (see 61) 82 Netherlands Embassy ............................B5
Anokhi .............................................(see 58) 83 New Zealand High Commission ............B5
Anokhi ............................................. (see 61) 84 Pakistani Embassy..................................C4
59 Anokhi ...................................................... H5 85 Sikkim House ...........................................B4
Bahrisons........................................ (see 61) 86 Singaporean High Commission.............B5
Fabindia........................................... (see 61) 87 Sri Lankan High Commission ................C3
60 Fabindia.....................................................F5 88 US Embassy.............................................C4
Full Circle Bookstore..................... (see 61)
Kama ............................................... (see 61) ï Transport
61 Khan Market .............................................F4 89 Bikaner House ......................................... F3
62 Meharchand Market................................F5 90 Chanderlok House....................................E1
Mehra Bros ..................................... (see 61) 91 Himachal Bhawan ................................... G1
OCM Suitings.................................. (see 61) 92 Himachal Pradesh Tourism
63 Sunder Nagar Market............................. G3 Development Corporation ...................E1
The Shop........................................ (see 60) 93 Metropole Tourist Service .....................G6
94 Prepaid Autorickshaws ..........................H5
ï Information Rajasthan Tourism........................(see 89)
64 Archaeological Survey of India ..............E3
65 Australian High Commission ................ C4

₹200/100, camera/video ₹50/200, battery-operat- Khan-i-Khanan’s Tomb HISTORIC BUILDING

ed vehicle adult/child ₹67/34; h 9am-4.30pm Sat- (Map p72; Indian/foreigner ₹15/200; h dawn-dusk;
Thu, to 4pm Oct-Mar; m Pragati Maidan) Founded m Jangpura) This is the monumental tomb
in 1952, this is a vast green space in the city, of a poet and minister in Akbar’s court.
covering 86 hectares. Kept in reasonable Khan-i-Khanan had it built for his wife in
conditions are lions, tigers, elephants, hip- 1598, and was buried here himself in 1627. It
pos, rhinos, spectacular birds and monkeys. was later plundered to build nearby Safdar-
You can hire battery-operated vehicles to get jang’s tomb, and more of its decoration was
around. stripped in the 19th century.
Safdarjang’s Tomb TOMB oGurdwara Bangla Sahib SIKH TEMPLE
(Map p72; Aurobindo Marg; Indian/foreigner (Map p72; Ashoka Rd; h 4am-9pm; m Patel Chowk)
₹15/200, video ₹25; h dawn-dusk; m Jor Bagh) This magnificent, huge, white-marble gurd-
Built by the Nawab of Avadh for his father, wara, topped by glinting golden onion
Safdarjang, this grandiose, highly decorative domes, was constructed at the site where the
mid-18th-century tomb is an example of late eighth Sikh guru, Harkrishan Dev, stayed be-
Mughal architecture. There were insuffi- fore his 1664 death. Despite his tender years,
cient funds for all-over marble, so materials the six-year-old guru tended to victims of
to cover the dome were taken from the near- Delhi’s cholera and smallpox epidemic, and
by mausoleum of Khan-i-Khanan, and it was the waters of the large tank are said to have
finished in red sandstone. healing powers. It’s full of colour and life, yet
tranquil, and live devotional songs waft over
the compound.
76

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school) and tomb (Map p76), which he had
1 South Delhi built before his death in 1388.
Hauz Khas AREA To reach the lake shore, cut through the
(Map p76; h dawn-dusk; m Green Park) Built by adjacent Deer Park (daylight hours), which
Sultan Ala-ud-din Khilji in the 13th century, has more ruined tombs and a well-stocked
Hauz Khas means ‘noble tank’, and its res- deer enclosure. There are numerous Lo-
ervoir once covered 28 hectares. It collected di-era tombs scattered along the access road
enough water during the monsoon to last to Hauz Khas Village, and in nearby Green
Siri Fort throughout the dry season. Today Park.
it’s much smaller, but still a beautiful place
Bahai House of Worship TEMPLE
to be, thronged by birds and surrounded by
(Lotus Temple; Map p76; % 011-26444029; www.
parkland. Alongside it are the ruins of Feroz
bahaihouseofworship.in; Kalkaji; h 9am-7pm Tue-
Shah’s 14th-century madrasa (religious
Sun Apr-Sep, to 5.30pm Oct-Mar; m Kalkaji Man-
 77
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dir) Designed for tranquil worship, Delhi’s Chhatarpur Mandir HINDU TEMPLE
beautiful Lotus Temple offers a rare pocket (Shri Adya Katyayani Shakti Peeth Mandir; % 011-
of calm in the hectic city. This architectural 26802360; www.chhattarpurmandir.org; Main
masterpiece was designed by Iranian-Ca- Chhatarpur Rd; h 4am-midnight; m Chhatarpur)
nadian architect Fariburz Sahba in 1986. India’s second-largest temple (after Ak-
It is shaped like a lotus flower, with 27 shardham), this impressive sandstone and
delicate-looking white-marble petals. The marble complex dates from 1974, and is
temple was created to bring faiths togeth- dedicated to the goddess Katyayani (one of
er; visitors are invited to pray or meditate the nine forms of Parvati). There are doz-
silently according to their own beliefs. The ens of shrines with towering South Indian
attached visitor centre tells the story of the gopurams (temple towers), and an enor-
Bahai faith. Photography is prohibited in- mous statue of Hanuman stands guard over
side the temple. the compound. Weekdays tend to be fairly
sedate, but it gets crowded at weekends
78

South Delhi
æ Top Sights 21 Epicuria.....................................................G2
1 Mehrauli Archaeological Park ............... C5 22 Greenr ....................................................... E3
2 Qutb Minar Complex .............................. C5 Indian Accent ..................................(see 18)
23 Potbelly..................................................... E2
æ Sights 24 Rose Cafe .................................................D5
3 Bahai House of Worship ........................ H2 Sagar Ratna.................................... (see 25)
D e lh i S i ghts

Feroz Shah's Tomb..........................(see 4) 25 Swagath.....................................................F1

4 Hauz Khas................................................ C2 26 Swagath....................................................G4
5 Hijron ka Khanqah .................................. B5
Iron Pillar...........................................(see 2) û Drinking & Nightlife
Qutb Minar........................................(see 2) Anandini Tea Room....................... (see 37)
Quwwat-ul-Islam Masjid .................(see 2) 27 Bandstand................................................D2
28 Blue Tokai.................................................C5
Ø Activities, Courses & Tours 29 Café Turtle................................................ F3
6 Central Hindi Directorate........................B1 30 Ek Bar.........................................................F1
7 Concern India Foundation ..................... G2 Hauz Khas Social...........................(see 36)
8 Kerala Ayurveda...................................... D2 31 Jugmug Thela ..........................................D5
9 Saffron Palate.......................................... D3 Kunzum Travel Cafe......................(see 36)
10 Sivananda Yoga ...................................... G2 32 Piano Man Jazz Club...............................D2
11 Sri Aurobindo Ashram ........................... D4 Summer House.............................. (see 27)
12 Studio Abhyas......................................... D2
13 Tushita Meditation Centre..................... D3 þ Shopping
14 Yoga Studio ............................................. D3 Anokhi ............................................. (see 35)
Claymen..........................................(see 36)
ÿ Sleeping 33 Delhi Musical Stores ................................F1
15 Bed & Chai ............................................... G3 34 Dilli Haat.................................................... D1
16 Jugaad Hostel.......................................... D3 35 Greater Kailash I: M-Block &
17 Madpackers Hostel..................................E3 N-Block Markets................................... F2
18 Manor ........................................................H1 36 Hauz Khas Village....................................C2
19 Scarlette................................................... C2 37 NeedleDust............................................... E3
20 Treetops................................................... D3 Nimai ...............................................(see 22)
38 Timeless ....................................................E1
ú Eating
Coast .............................................. (see 36)

and during the Navratri celebrations in Sulabh International

September/October. Museum of Toilets MUSEUM
(% 011-25031518; www.sulabhtoiletmuseum.org;
Sulabh Complex, Mahavir Enclave, Palam Dabri
1 Other Areas Rd; h 10am-5pm Apr-Sep, 10.30am-5pm Oct-Mar;
oAkshardham Temple HINDU TEMPLE m Janakpuri West) SF More than half
(% 011-43442344; www.akshardham.com; Na- of India’s 1.2 billion people still don’t have
tional Hwy 24, Noida turning; temple admission a toilet in their homes, but since 1970 the
free, exhibitions ₹170, water show ₹80; h temple Sulabh NGO has worked to address India’s
9.30am-6.30pm Tue-Sun, exhibitions 9.30am-5pm, sanitation issues, constructing new public
water show after sunset; m Akshardham) In the toilets and developing ‘scavenger-free’ pour-
eastern suburbs, the Gujarati Hindu Swam- flush toilets – it’s long been illegal for people
inarayan Group’s Akshardham Temple was to work as manual scavengers in order to
built in 2005, and is breathtakingly lavish. empty untreated waste, but this caste-de-
Artisans used ancient techniques to carve fined task is still prevalent in many areas.
the pale red sandstone into elaborate reliefs, The organisation also educates, and their
including 20,000 deities, saints and mythi- small, quirky museum traces the history of
cal creatures. The centrepiece is a 3m-high the water closet from 2500 BC to modern
gold statue of Bhagwan Shri Swaminarayan. times. Take a rickshaw from the metro stop.
The complex includes a boat ride through
10,000 years of Indian history, animatron- Sanskriti Museums MUSEUM

ics telling stories from the life of Swami- (www.sanskritifoundation.org; Anandagram, Meh-
narayan, and musical fountains. rauli Gurgaon Rd; h 10am-5pm Tue-Fri; m Ar-
jangarh) F On the way to Gurgaon, this
 79
little-known, well-kept place contains mu- and the banks of the Yamuna – and start ear-
seums devoted to ‘everyday art’ and Indian ly to miss the worst of the traffic. The price
terracotta and textiles. Much of the museum includes chai and a Mughal breakfast. Child
is outside and covers 7 acres. Objects such as seats are available.
kitchenware and hookahs are works of art,
and there are expressive terracotta sculp- oSalaam Baalak Trust WALKING

tures and intricate textiles from Gujarat, (SBT; Map p82; % 011-23584164; www.salaam
baalaktrust.com; Gali Chandiwali, Paharganj; sug-

D e lh i A ct i v i t i es
Rajasthan, Kashmir and Bengal.
gested donation ₹200; m Ramakrishna Ashram
2 Activities Marg) S Founded on the proceeds of Mira
Nair’s 1988 film about the life of street
Delhi Golf Club GOLF
children, Salaam Bombay!, this charitable
(Map p72; % 011-24307100; www.delhigolfclub.org;
organisation offers two-hour ‘street walks’
Dr Zakir Hussain Marg; 18 holes weekdays/week-
guided by former street children, who will
ends Indian ₹6000/8000, foreigner US$100/150;
show you firsthand what life is like for Del-
h dawn-dusk; m Khan Market) Carved out of the
hi’s homeless youngsters. The fees help the
undergrowth in 1931, this golf club now cov-
Trust assist street children.
ers 220 acres and is a spectacular place to
tee off, with beautiful, well-tended fairways, Intach WALKING
peacocks and Mughal tombs. Weekends are (% 011-41035557; www.intachdelhichapter.org;
busy. tour ₹200) Intach runs walking tours with
expert guides, exploring different areas,
Kerala Ayurveda AYURVEDA
such as Chandni Chowk, Nizamuddin, Hauz
(Map p76; % 011-41754888; www.ayurvedancr.
Khas and Mehrauli. Custom walks can also
com; E-2 Green Park Extn; 1hr synchronised mas-
be arranged.
sage with steam ₹1500, sirodhara ₹3000; h 8am-
8pm; m Green Park) Treatments from sarvang Delhi Heritage Walks WALKING
ksheerdhara (massage with buttermilk) (www.delhiheritagewalks.com; 3hr walk ₹500) Fas-
to sirodhara (warm oil poured on the cinating walks led by knowledgable guides
forehead). around Mehrauli, Old Delhi, Tughlaqabad
and more.
Aura SPA
(Map p72; % 8800621206; www.aurathaispa.com; Delhi Metro Walks WALKING
Middle Lane, Khan Market; 1hr dry/oil massage (www.delhimetrowalks.com; half- to full-day group
₹1400/2800; h 10am-9pm; m Khan Market) walks per person ₹300-600) Delhi-wallah
Glitzy spa offering Thai-inspired massages Surekha Nurain shares her extensive knowl-
and treatments. There are also branches at edge about architecture, history and culture
Karol Bagh, GK1, GK2 and Green Park. on recommended group or private tours,
visiting both mainstream sights and off-the-
T Tours beaten-track locations. She has several spe-
oReality Tours & Travel TOURS cially themed walks for families.
(% 9818227975; http://realitytoursandtravel.com;
Street Connections WALKING
2hr tour ₹850; h 10am-6pm) Long-established
(www.walk.streetconnections.co.uk; 3hr walk ₹500;
in Mumbai, the highly professional Reality
h 9am-noon Mon-Sat) S This fascinating
Tours are now offering tours of Delhi, in-
walk through Old Delhi is guided by former
cluding the excellent Sanjay Colony tour – a
street children who have been helped by
visit to a slum area of Delhi (no photographs
the Salaam Baalak Trust (p79). It explores
permitted out of respect for locals’ priva-
the hidden corners of Old Delhi, starting at
cy). The tour guides are knowledgable and
Jama Masjid and concluding at one of the
friendly, and 80% of profits go to supporting
SBT shelters.
development projects in the colony.
Hope Project WALKING
oDelhiByCycle CYCLING
(Map p72; % 011-24357081; www.hopeprojectindia.
(% 9811723720; www.delhibycycle.com; per per- org; 127 Hazrat Nizamuddin; 1½hr walk suggested
son ₹1850; h 6.30-10am) Founded by a Dutch donation ₹300; m JLN Stadium) S The Hope
journalist, these cycle tours are the original Project guides interesting walks around the
and the best, and a thrilling way to explore Muslim basti (slum) of Nizamuddin. Take
Delhi. Tours focus on specific neighbour- the walk in the afternoon to end at the qa-
hoods – Old Delhi, New Delhi, Nizamuddin, wwali (Islamic devotional singing) at the
80
Hazrat Nizam-ud-din Dargah, or at the more offering free yoga and meditation classes for
intimate session at the shrine of Hazrat In- serious practitioners.
ayat Khan on Friday. Wear modest clothing.
Tushita Meditation Centre MEDITATION
Peteindia WALKING (Map p76; % 011-26513400; www.tushitadelhi.com;
(www.peteindia.org; 2hr tour ₹750) An NGO of- 9 Padmini Enclave; by donation; h 6.30-7.30pm
fering guided walks around the central area Mon & Thu; m Hauz Khas) Guided Tibetan/Bud-
that’s home to Delhi’s magicians, puppet- dhist meditation sessions.
D e lh i C ourses

eers and circus performers, also known as

the tinsel slum (the ‘Kathputli Colony’). It’s Saffron Palate COOKING

not the best organised tour but nonetheless (Map p76; % 9971389993; www.saffronpalate.com;
a unique opportunity to see some of the R21 Hauz Khas Enclave; cooking class without/with
performers, subject of the 2015 documenta- market visit ₹6000/8000; h varies; m Hauz Khas)
ry Tomorrow We Disappear, and discover Recommended 2½-hour Indian cookery
more about their communities. classes, where you eat the food afterwards,
are run by Neha Gupta in her family home.
Ho Ho Bus Service TOURS You can also arrange a 4½-hour course in-
(Hop-on, Hop-off; % 1280; http://hohodelhi. cluding a market visit.
com; Indian/foreigner ₹350/700, two-day tick-
et ₹600/1200; h departures 8.30am-2.40pm Central Hindi Directorate LANGUAGE

Tue-Sun) The Delhi Tourism & Transport (Map p76; % 011-26178454; http://hindinidesha
Development Corporation runs the air-con- laya.nic.in/english; West Block VII, RK Puram,
ditioned Ho Ho Dilli Dekho bus service, Vivekanand Marg; 60hr basic course ₹6000) Runs
which circuits the major sights every 45 certificate and diploma courses in Hindi; ba-
minutes or so from 8.30am to 6.30pm, with sic courses last 60 hours, with three classes
the last stop at Jantar Mantar at 6.45pm a week.
(last departure at 2.40pm). Buy tickets from
the booth (Map p68) near the DTTDC office. 4 Sleeping
Delhi hotels range from wallet-friendly dives
C Courses to lavish five-stars; wherever you are on the
Sivananda Yoga HEALTH & WELLBEING
scale, it’s wise to book ahead, and reconfirm
(Map p76; www.sivananda.org.in; A41 Kailash Colo- 24 hours before arrival. Most places offer
ny; suggested donation per class ₹400; m Kailash airport pick-up, arranged in advance.
Colony) This excellent ashram offers courses Hotel rooms above ₹1500 per night at-
and workshops for both beginners and the tract a 8.4% service tax, a 15% luxury tax
advanced, plus drop-in classes ranging from and nominal Krishi Kalyan Cess (a national
one to two hours. On Sunday there is a free agriculture initiative) and Swaccha Bharat
introductory drop-in class. Abhiyan Cess (a national sanitation and
infrastructure initiative) charges of 0.05%
Yoga Studio YOGA each.
(Seema Sondhi; Map p76; www.theyogastudio.
info; 43 D-Block Hauz Khas; 4/8/12 classes
₹2200/3200/3700, drop in ₹800; m Hauz Khas)
4 Old Delhi
Seema Sondni’s 75-minute classes practise oStops @ The President HOSTEL $
various forms of Ashtanga Vinyasa. From (Map p64; % 011-41056226; www.gostops.
beginners to advanced practioners: contact com; 4/23B Asaf Ali Rd; dm ₹500-800, d ₹3000;
in advance so you can attend an appropriate a i W ; m New Delhi) This is one of the best
class. of Delhi’s new breed of hostels, in a great
location on the edge of Old Delhi, with a
Studio Abhyas MEDITATION, YOGA brightly tiled kitchen, lounge areas, three
(Map p76; % 011-26962757; www.abhyastrust.org; friendly dogs, and comfortable, clean dorms
F-27 Green Park; m Green Park) Yoga and med- and rooms.
itation classes and Vedic chanting, for prac-
titioners at any level; also offer children’s Hotel New City Palace HOTEL $
classes. (Map p64; % 011-23279548; www.hotelnewcity
palace.in; 726 Jama Masjid; r ₹700; a ; m Chawri
Sri Aurobindo Ashram MEDITATION, YOGA Bazaar) A palace it’s not, but this mazelike
(Map p76; % 011-26567863; www.sriaurobindoash hotel has an amazing location overlooking
ram.net; Aurobindo Marg; m Hauz Khas) Ashram the Jama Masjid. Rooms aren’t big, and have
 81
small, hard beds with greying sheets, but
some have windows and views. The bath- PRICE RANGES
rooms (squat toilets) could do with a good
The following price ranges refer to a
scrub, but staff are friendly.
double room with private bathroom and
Hotel Bombay Orient HOTEL $$ are inclusive of tax.
(Map p64; % 011-43101717; Matya Mahal; s/d from $ less than ₹1500
₹970/1430, with AC ₹1370/1830; a ; m Jama

D e lh i S leep i ng
$$ ₹1500–5000
Masjid) Opposite famous restaurant Karim’s
in Old Delhi, this is a friendly place to stay $$$ more than ₹5000
and you’ll be in the thick of it. Rooms are
clean and tidy, but ask to see a few before
you commit. Bookings are recommended. cuisine, and is convenient for New Delhi
Railway Station/Airport metro.
Hotel Broadway HOTEL $$
If your hotel is on the the Main Bazaar
(Map p64; % 011-43663600; www.hotelbroad or Arakashan Rd, taxi drivers can make it
waydelhi.com; 4/15 Asaf Ali Rd; s/d incl breakfast all the way to the door, though they may be
from ₹3250/4805; aiW ; m New Delhi) The reluctant as it’s so congested. If you’re hav-
Broadway was Delhi’s first high-rise when ing issues, ask to be dropped at Chhe Tooti
it opened in 1956. Today it’s comfortable, Chowk and complete your journey on foot.
quirky, and in a great Old Delhi location. You can walk to the Main Bazaar in min-
It’s worth staying here for the restaurant utes from Ramakrishna Ashram Marg met-
Chor Bizarre (p86) and Thugs bar. Some ro. The New Delhi metro is more convenient
rooms have old-fashioned wood panelling, for Arakashan Rd, which is around 10 min-
while others have been quirkily kitted out by utes’ walk from the stop, over a bridge.
French designer Catherine Lévy. Ask for one
with views over Old Delhi. oBackpacker Panda HOSTEL $
(Map p82; http://backpackerpanda.com; dm 8-bed
oHaveli Dharampura HERITAGE HOTEL $$$
₹400, 6-bed ₹450; W ; m Ramakrishna Ashram
(Map p64; % 011-23263000; www.havelidharampu Marg) A great alternative to Paharganj’s
|ra.com; 2293 Gali Guliyan; d from ₹13,640; a W ; less-than-fancy cheap hotels, Panda offers
m Jama Masjid) This is a beautiful restored bright, clean dorms (one is female only) with
haveli, full of Mughal atmosphere and cen- attached bathrooms, charge points, lockers,
tred around a courtyard. Rooms have gran- windows, clean linen and comfortable mat-
diose polished-wood beds, but it’s worth tresses. It’s close to the metro. Win-win!
paying for a larger room, as the smallest are
a little cramped. The excellent restaurant, oHotel Amax Inn HOTEL $
Lakhori (p86), serves historic Mughal rec- (Map p82; % 011-23543813; www.hotelamax.com;
ipes, and there’s kathak dancing Friday to 8145/6 Arakashan Rd; s/d/tr from ₹850/950/1350;
Sunday evenings. a i W ; m New Delhi) In a lane off chaotic
Arakashan Rd, the Amax is a long-running
Maidens Hotel HOTEL $$$
traveller favourite, with clean, occasionally
(Map p64; % 011-23975464; www.maidensho-
stuffy, good-value budget rooms. Staff are
tel.com; 7 Sham Nath Marg; r from ₹19,840;
friendly, and clued up about traveller needs,
aiWs ; m Civil Lines) Oberoi-owned Maid-
and there’s a small greenery-fringed terrace.
ens is a grand heritage hotel dating from
The triple (Room 403) opening onto the
1903 – a creamy neoclassical confection
rooftop has the added advantage of a win-
fronted by pea-green lawns. Lutyens stayed
dow and a nicely stencilled wall.
here while supervising the building of New
Delhi, and the high-ceilinged rooms have a Zostel HOSTEL $
colonial-era charm but contemporary com- (Map p82; % 011-39589005; www.zostel.com/
forts. There are two restaurants, a pool and zostel/Delhi; 5 Arakashan Rd; 6-8-bed dm ₹549,
a bar. d ₹1499; W ; m New Delhi) Part of the Zostel
chain, this place is shabbier than some of
4 Paharganj & Around Delhi’s other backpacker hostels. Howev-
er, it’s got the obligatory cheerful murals,
Love it or hate it, this hectic traveller hub is the dorms are a pretty good deal, and it’s a
no oasis of serenity. But it is packed with ho- friendly place to meet other backpackers.
tels, trinket shops, and restaurants of every
82

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Paharganj
Ø Activities, Courses & Tours Cafe Fresh ....................................... (see 11)
1 Salaam Baalak Trust .............................. C2 14 Everest Bakery.........................................C2
Malhotra .......................................... (see 11)
ÿ Sleeping 15 Narula Bakery ..........................................B3
2 Backpacker Panda.................................. A3 16 Shimtur.....................................................B2
3 Bloom Rooms @ New Delhi....................C1 17 Sita Ram Dewan Chand..........................A2
4 Cottage Ganga Inn.................................. B2 18 Tadka ........................................................B3
5 Diya ........................................................... A2
6 Hotel Amax Inn.........................................B1 û Drinking & Nightlife
7 Hotel Godwin Deluxe...............................B1 19 Gem...........................................................C2
8 Hotel Hari Piorko..................................... B2 20 Karen Cafe................................................ B1
9 Hotel Namaskar...................................... B2 21 Metro Bar .................................................A3
10 Hotel Rak International.......................... B2 22 My Bar.......................................................A3
11 Metropolis Tourist Home....................... A2 23 Sam's Bar .................................................B2
12 Zostel.........................................................C1
þ Shopping
ú Eating 24 Main Bazaar .............................................C2
13 Brown Bread Bakery .............................. B2

Hotel Namaskar HOTEL $ Cottage Ganga Inn HOTEL $

(Map p82; % 011-23583456; www.namaskarhotel. (Map p82; % 011-23561516; www.cottageganga
com; 917 Chandiwalan, Main Bazaar; r ₹400-650, inn.com; 1532 Bazar Sangtrashan; s/d from
with AC ₹700; aW ) Up a narrow alley oppo- ₹1000/1300; a i W ; m Ramakrishna Ashram
site the Dayal Boot House, this long-run- Marg) Quieter than most Paharganj choices,
ning traveller cheapo is run by two amiable this place is tucked in a courtyard off the
brothers and offers a friendly welcome. It Main Bazaar, next to a nursery school. It’s
may be humid and noisy, but the rooms get clean, calm, comfortable and good value.
a fresh coat of powder-pink paint annually, Rooms at the front have windows and cost
which gives it a fresher feel than many of more.
its peers.
 83
Hotel Rak International HOTEL $ ₹2000; a i W ; m Ramakrishna Ashram Marg) A
(Map p82; % 011-23562478; www.hotelrakinter long-standing favourite in the backpacking
national.com; 820 Main Bazaar, Chowk Bawli; s/d district, this hotel has comfortable, renovat-
₹650/750, with AC ₹850/950; a ; m Ramakrishna ed rooms decorated in a hundred shades of
Ashram Marg) Hotel Rak International is off brown. The slightly pricey rooftop restau-
the Main Bazaar (so it’s quieter) and over- rant feels almost European, with its green-
looks a little square and temple. The mod- ery, low lights and foreign clientele.

D e lh i S leep i ng
est rooms at this popular place are a good
choice in this price range, with marble floors
and bathrooms, plus, unusually, twin rooms
4 Connaught Place & Around
and…windows! The pricier rooms overlook oImperial HOTEL $$$
the square. (Map p68; % 011-23341234; www.theimperialindia.
com; Janpath; r from ₹24,300; ai W s ; m Jan-
oBloom Rooms @ New Delhi HOTEL $$ path) Classicism meets art deco at the Impe-
(Map p82; % 011-40174017; http://bloomrooms. rial, which dates from 1931 and was designed
com; 8591 Arakashan Rd; s/d incl breakfast from by FB Blomfield, an associate of Lutyens.
₹2200/2900; aiW ; m New Delhi) Bloom Rooms have high ceilings, flowing curtains,
Rooms’ white-and-yellow, pared-down de- French linen and marble baths. There’s the
signer aesthetic is unlike anything else in the temple-like Thai restaurant Spice Route; the
‘hood. Plus there are soft pillows, comfortable 1911 bar (p91) is highly recommended; and
beds, good wi-fi and free mineral water. Its Re the Atrium cafe (p91) serves the perfect high
restaurant is a bit gloomy but the food is tasty. tea.
The hallways and atriums are lined with
Diya B&B $$
the hotel’s venerable 18th- and 19th-century
(Map p82; % 9811682348; http://stay.street
art collection.
connections.co.uk; Tilak St; s/d incl breakfast
₹2000/2750; W ; m Ramakrishna Ashram Marg) Hotel Palace Heights HOTEL $$$
The kind of place you’d really like kept se- (Map p68; % 011-43582610; www.hotelpalace
cret, this is like a South Delhi guesthouse, heights.com; 26-28 D-Block; s/d ₹8100/8650;
but on a Paharganj backstreet, and has a i W ; m Rajiv Chowk) This small-scale bou-
three lovely, well-cared-for rooms, one with tique hotel offers some of busy Connaught
a balcony. There’s also a shared kitchen. It’s Place’s nicest rooms, with gleaming white
run by Street Connections, and the staff and linen, and caramel and amber tones. There’s
management are former street kids from an excellent restaurant, Zāffrān (Map p68;
the Salaam Baalak Trust. Reservations are % 011-43582610; Hotel Palace Heights, 26-28
essential. Great for solo women. D-Block; mains ₹350-650; h noon-3.30pm & 6.30-
11.30pm; m Rajiv Chowk).
Hotel Hari Piorko HOTEL $$
(Map p82; Main Bazaar; r ₹1450-1850; a W ; Radisson Blu Marina HOTEL $$$
m Ramakrishna Ashram Marg) It’s worth pay- (Map p68; % 011-46909090; www.radisson.com/
ing just that bit extra to have a fish tank in hotels/indnedl; 59 G-Block; s/d ₹10,000/11,000;
your room – this is the only hotel in Delhi, a i W ; m Rajiv Chowk) Connaught Place’s
to our knowledge, with this option. Even swishest choice, the Radisson feels pleas-
without the fish tanks, this is a good choice ingly luxurious, with sleek, stylish, all-mod-
– the pricier rooms are also more spacious. con rooms, the Great Kebab Factory, and a
There’s the Fire & Ice restaurant too, with a cool bar, the Connaught, where you can sip
balcony overlooking the Main Bazaar. drinks under hanging red lamps.
Hotel Godwin Deluxe HOTEL $$
(Map p82; % 011-23613797; www.godwinhotels.com; 4 West Delhi
8501 Arakashan Rd; s/d incl breakfast ₹3000/3250; Master Guest House GUESTHOUSE $$
aiW ; m New Delhi) Run by the same owners (% 011-28741089; www.master-guesthouse.com;
as the Grand Godwin next door, Godwin De- R-500 New Rajendra Nagar; s/d incl breakfast from
luxe offers similar good service, and comfort- ₹2071/3270; a i W ; m Rajendra Place) In a qui-
able, spacious, clean rooms. et suburban area, this smart and polished
Metropolis Tourist Home HOTEL $$
home is a tight ship run by the knowledga-
(Map p82; % 011-23561794; www.metropolis ble Ushi and Avnish, and has three tastefully
touristhome.com; 1634-5 Main Bazaar; r from furnished rooms with spotless bathrooms.
There’s a leafy rooftop terrace.
84
Shanti Home HOTEL $$$ area, but still close to the Dargah and Hu-
(% 011-41573366; www.shantihome.com; A-1/300 mayun’s Tomb.
Janakpuri; s/d incl breakfast from ₹5500/6500;
aiW ; m Uttam Nagar East) In west Delhi, Lutyens Bungalow GUESTHOUSE $$$

this small boutique place is close to the met- (Map p72; % 011-24611341; www.lutyensbunga
ro and offers beautifully decorated rooms low.co.in; 39 Prithviraj Rd; s/d incl breakfast from
that get gradually swisher the more you ₹6500/8000; a i W s ; m Racecourse) A
rambling bungalow with a colonial feel, sur-
D e lh i S leep i ng

spend. There are spacious lounge areas, an

excellent, lantern-lit rooftop restaurant, a rounded by verandahs and hanging lamps,
gym, cooking classes and spa service. this family-run guesthouse has a wonderful
garden, with lawns, flowers and fluttering
parakeets. Rooms are pleasant, with wood-
4 New Delhi en furnishings and an old-fashioned vibe,
Bloom Rooms @ Link Rd HOTEL $$ and it’s a particularly good place to stay with
(Map p72; % 011-41261400; bloomrooms.com; kids because of the unusual amount of ram-
7 Link Rd; s/d incl breakfast from ₹2900/3700; bling space.
aiW ; m Jangpura) A few minutes’ walk
from the metro, this is a quiet and conven- 4 South Delhi
ient spot for Khan Market, Humayun’s Tomb
and Lodi Gardens. Bloom Rooms’ designer oMadpackers Hostel HOSTEL $
white-and-yellow aesthetic is pleasingly (Map p76; S39-A 3rd fl, Panchsheel Park Sth; 6-14-
Scandi-esque. Pillows are soft, wi-fi is fast, bed dm ₹650-850; a W ; m Hauz Khas) A friend-
and there’s a branch of Amici, a respected ly, relaxed hostel with a bright and airy
local Italian restaurant. sitting room that’s one of the best places
in town to hang out and meet like-minded
oLodhi HOTEL $$$ travellers. It has mixed dorms (with one fe-
(Map p72; % 011-43633333; www.thelodhi.com; male-only) and graffitied walls, and it’s in a
Lodi Rd; r from ₹21,800; aWs ; m JLN Stadium) leafy area of south Delhi.
The Lodhi is one of Delhi’s finest luxury
hotels, with huge, lovely rooms and suites. Jugaad Hostel HOSTEL $

Each room has a balcony with private plunge (Map p76; Mohamed Pur; dm ₹600-800, r ₹2400)
pool, and those on the upper floors have In a nicely untouristed if out-of-the-way
great views, some over to Humayun’s Tomb. area, this is a great hostel close to a huge
Attention to detail is superb. There’s also a Friday market. There are dorms including
top-notch spa (Map p72; % 011-43633333; www. a women-only dorm, private rooms, swing
thelodhi.com; Lodhi Hotel, Lodi Rd; 1hr massage chairs on the rooftop and a friendly, helpful
from ₹3800; m JLN Stadium). welcome.

Claridges HOTEL $$$

Bed & Chai HOSTEL $$

(Map p72; % 011-39555000; www.claridges.com; (Map p76; www.bedandchai.com; R55 Hans Raj Gup-
12 Aurangzeb Rd; d from ₹13,050; a i W s ; ta Marg; dm ₹850, d without/with bathroom from
m Racecourse) Fronted by manicured green ₹2500/3100) For a quiet stay, this French-
lawns, elegant Claridges was built in 1952. owned guesthouse has simple rooms, deco-
Colonial-era-styled rooms have all comforts, rated with flashes of colour and some quirky,
and there are some excellent dining options, original design touches. There’s a dorm, a
including romantic Mediterranean Sevilla, roof terrace and, of course, excellent chai.
with its curtained pavilions, and imagine- Treetops GUESTHOUSE $$
you’re-on-the-highway Dhaba (Map p72; (Map p76; % 9899555704; baig.murad@gmail.com;
% 011-39555000; The Claridges, 12 Aurangzeb Rd; R-8B Hauz Khas Enclave; s/d from ₹2500/3500;
dishes ₹700-2000; h 12.30-2.30pm & 7-11.30pm; a W ; m Hauz Khas) Motor-journalist-novel-
m Racecourse), with traditional Punjabi food. ist-philosopher Murad and his hobby-chef
Zaza Stay GUESTHOUSE $$$
wife Tannie have a gracious home. To stay
(Map p72; % 011-47373450; www.zaza.co.in; G54, here feels rather like visiting some up-
Nizamuddin West; s/d incl breakfast ₹4000/5000) per-crust relatives from another era. There
Owned by a couple who have their own are two large rooms opening onto a leafy
homewares brand, this guesthouse has rooftop terrace; the smaller room down-
beautifully decorated rooms with leafy out- stairs is cheaper but can feel less private.
looks in Nizamuddin; a quiet and restful Evening meals are available.
 85

MAJNU-KA-TILLA
Majnu-ka-Tilla is an enclave that has served as a base for Tibetan refugees since around
1960. It’s a popular alternative traveller hub for those who prefer something more re-
laxed than Paharganj, with a laid-back, little Lhasa vibe. It’s named after a local hermit
boatman who was nicknamed ‘crazy’ (majnu) and who met Guru Nanak, the founder of
Sikhism, here on a small hill (tilla); the nearby 18th-century Majnu-ka-Tilla Gurdwara was

D e lh i E at i ng
built to commemorate the Guru’s soujourn here.
Majnu-ka-Tilla’s streets are too narrow for traffic, and it’s close to the Yamuna River.
There’s a monastery here, and plenty of maroon-robed Buddhist monks and Tibetans.
There are also rather a lot of beggars, but the streets have a small-town, safe-feeling vibe.
Cheapie Ga-Kyegu House (% 011-23815196; gakyeguhouse@hotmail.com; H-158, Block
7, Tibetan Colony; r ₹700, without bathroom ₹550; W ; m Vidhan Sabha) has some bargain
rooms with Yamuna River views. Friendly Wongdhen House (% 011-23816689; 15-A
New Tibetan Colony; r ₹800-1000, without bathroom ₹500; a W ; m Vidhan Sabha) has sim-
ple, shabby rooms and a good restaurant; next-door Lhasa House (% 011-23939888;
lhasahouse@rediffmail.com; 16 New Aruna Nagar; r ₹500-1000; m Vidhan Sabha) is better
value. Ama (H40, New Aruna Nagar; h 7am-9.30pm; W ; m Vidhan Sabha) and Kham Cafe
(New Aruna Nagar; h 7am-7.30pm; m Vidhan Sabha) are splendid places to chill over coffee,
and below Ama is good-value Akama (h 9am-7.30pm; m Vidhan Sabha), selling Tibetan
artefacts. Two good eating options are Tee Dee (32 New Aruna Nagar; dishes ₹60-210;
h 8.30am-10.30pm; m Vidhan Sabha) and long-running and popular Dolma House (Block
10, New Tibetan Colony; dishes ₹70-180; h 7am-10pm). For a refreshing change, try Korean
Kori’s (Tsampa Café; Tsampa House, 18-19 New Camp; dishes ₹80-290; h 7.30am-10pm; W ).
To reach here, take the metro to Vidhan Sabha, from where shared auto-/cycle-rick-
shaws (₹40/20) will take you to the enclave on KB Hedgewar Marg. Ask for the ‘wrong
side’.

oManor HOTEL $$$ house) with four rooms, plus an apartment,

(Map p76; % 011-26925151; www.themanordelhi. decorated with beautiful artistic flair by the
com; 77 Friends Colony (West); d incl breakfast from French textile-designer owner. It’s a good
₹11,000; aiW ) With only 16 rooms, this choice for solo women.
boutique hotel oozes privacy and elegance.
Set amid manicured lawns off Mathura Rd, 4 Airport Area & Beyond
the Manor has large rooms with contempo-
rary furnishings in soothing earth colours Delhi’s Aerocity is a convenient area of big
and offering the utmost comfort. The restau- hotels, only 4km from the airport – ideal
rant, Indian Accent (p90), is one of Delhi’s if you’re only stopping over for a night. It’s
best. served by the Delhi Aerocity metro stop.
Take your pick from brands such as Hotel
oDevna GUESTHOUSE $$$ Pullman, Lemon Tree, and the super-luxu-
(Map p72; % 011-41507176; www.tensundernagar. rious Hilton-run Andaz Delhi; the cheapest
com; 10 Sunder Nagar; s/d ₹5450/5800; a i W ) option is the Hotel Delhi Aerocity. There are
Devna has lots of charm, with antique wood- also a few choices in nearby Vasant Kunj.
en furniture, photographs of maharajas, and See www.newdelhiairport.in for details of
works of art. The upstairs rooms open onto several sleeping options at the airport..
small terraces, with views over the pretty
courtyard garden, and it’s close to the ex- 5 Eating
pansive grounds of Delhi’s zoo.
Scarlette GUESTHOUSE $$$ 5 Old Delhi
(Map p76; % 011-41023764; www.scarlettenewdel oJalebiwala SWEETS $
hi.com; B2/139 Safdarjung Enclave; d from ₹7000; (Map p64; Dariba Corner, Chandni Chowk; jalebis
a W ) In serene, leafy Safdarjung Enclave, per 100g ₹50; h 8am-10pm; m Lal Qila) Century-­
close to Hauz Khas Village and the Deer old Jalebiwala does Delhi’s – if not India’s
Park, Scarlette is a maison d’hôtes (guest- – finest jalebis (deep-fried, syrupy dough),
86
so pig out and worry about the calories h 8am-10pm Tue-Sat; m JLN Stadium), but this
tomorrow. location is the oldest and best.

oGali Paratha Wali STREET FOOD $ Al-Jawahar MUGHLAI $$

(Map p64; Gali Paratha Wali; parathas ₹15-35; (Map p64; Matya Mahal; mains ₹60-350;
h 7am-11pm; m Jama Masjid) This lane off h 7am-midnight; m Jama Masjid) Although
Chandni Chowk has been serving up de- overshadowed by its famous neighbour,
lectable parathas (traditional flat bread) Karim’s (p86), Al-Jawahar is also fantastic,
D e lh i E at i ng

fresh off the tawa (hotplate) for generations, serving up tasty Mughlai cuisine at formica
originally serving pilgrims at the time of the tables in an orderly dining room, and you
Mughals. Choose from a spectacular array can watch breads being freshly made at the
of stuffings, from green chilli and paneer to front. Kebabs and mutton curries dominate
lemon and banana. the menu, but it also does good butter chick-
en and korma.
Natraj Dahi Balle Wala STREET FOOD $
(Map p64; 1396 Chandni Chowk; plates ₹50; Lakhori INDIAN $$$
h 10.30am-11pm; m Chandni Chowk) This tiny (Map p64; Haveli Dharampura, 2293 Gali Guliyan;
place with the big red sign and the big tasting menus veg/non-veg ₹1800/2200, other
crowds is famous for its dahi bhalle (fried dishes around ₹400-600; h 10am-10.30pm; W ;
lentil balls served with yoghurt and gar- m Jama Masjid) A different experience in the
nished with chutney) and deliciously crispy old city, this restored haveli is a labour of
aloo tikki (spiced potato patties). love by politician Vijay Goel, and it’s good to
see one of Old Delhi’s grand havelis finally
Haldiram’s FAST FOOD $ get some TLC. The restaurant is especially
(Map p64; 1454/2 Chandni Chowk; mains ₹70- atmospheric in the evening, with tables in
180; h 10am-10.30pm; m Chandni Chowk) This the courtyard and Mughlai and local recipes
clean, bright cafeteria-cum-sweet-shop is a on the menu.
popular stop for its top-notch dosas (large
South Indian savoury crêpes), and thalis, Moti Mahal MUGHLAI $$$
and it also sells namkin (savouries) and (Map p64; % 011-23273661; 3704 Netaji Sub-
mithai (sweets) to eat on the hoof. There’s hash Marg; mains ₹290-620; h noon-midnight)
a popular branch at Connaught Place (Map There’s only one true Moti Mahal, and this
p68; 6 L-Block, Connaught Place; snacks ₹70-230; been open for six generations – it’s full of
h 8.30am-10.30pm; m Rajiv Chowk). charm, with a stuck-in-time atmosphere;
it’d make a perfect film set for Wes An-
oKarim’s MUGHLAI $$ derson. Delhi-ites rate the place for its su-
(Map p64; Gali Kababyan; mains ₹120-400; h 9am- perior butter chicken and dhal makhani.
12.30am; m Jama Masjid) Just off the lane lead- There’s live qawwali (Islamic devotional
ing south from Jama Masjid, Karim’s has singing) Wednesday to Monday from 8pm
been delighting carnivores since 1913. Ex- to 11.30pm.
pect meaty Mughlai treats such as mutton
burrah (marinated chops), delicious mut- Chor Bizarre KASHMIRI $$$

ton Mughlai, and the breakfast mutton and (Map p64; % 011-23273821; Hotel Broadway, 4/15
bread combo nahari. There are branches all Asaf Ali Rd; mains ₹325-500; h noon-3pm & 7.30-
over town, including at Nizamuddin West 11pm; m New Delhi) A dimly lit cavern filled
(Map p72; 168/2 Jha House Basti; dishes ₹120-400; with bric-a-brac, including a vintage car,
Chor Bizarre (meaning ‘thieves market’)
offers delicious and authentic Kashmiri
FOOD & DRINK TAXES cuisine, including wazwan, the traditional
Kashmiri feast.
Drinks taxes ratchet your bill up by 20%
(alcoholic) or 12.5% (nonalcoholic),
and restaurants also levy 12.5% VAT on 5 Paharganj & West Delhi
food, plus AC places have to charge a Paharganj is the main backpacker hub, and
14% service tax on the ‘service’ element its restaurants proffer a wide-ranging mish-
of your bill. Many also add a 10% service mash of global cuisine ranging from pizza
charge. So be aware that all up you may to banana pancakes. There are more cheap
have to pay around 30% or more above eats in the bazaars at Karol Bagh.
what’s shown on the menu.
 87
oSita Ram Dewan Chand INDIAN $ an food is fresh and delicious here. Try the
(Map p82; 2243 Chuna Mandi; half-/full plate bibimbap (rice bowl with a mix of vegeta-
₹30/55; h 8am-5pm; m Ramakrishna Ashram bles, egg and pickles; ₹240). Beer is available
Marg) A family-run hole-in-the-wall serving (₹170).
inexpensive portions of just one dish – chole
Cafe Fresh VEGETARIAN $$
bhature (spicy chickpeas), accompanied by
(Map p82; Laxmi Narayan St; dishes ₹115-240;
delicious, freshly made, puffy, fried bread.
h 8am-11pm; W ; m Ramakrishna Ashram Marg)

D e lh i E at i ng
It’s a traditional breakfast but many people
This cafe has veg appeal, catering to a mix
are partial to some at any time of day.
of Indians and foreigners; it’s an attractive-
Narula Bakery BAKERY $ ly calm place to retreat (down a few steps)
(Map p82; sandwiches ₹15-25; h 9am-10pm; from the busy street.
m Ramakrishna Ashram Marg) A tip-top takea-
Tadka INDIAN $$
way bakery if you’re looking for a bargain
(Map p82; 4986 Ramdwara Rd; mains ₹150-190;
lunch, this place has veg, cheese and corn or
h 8.30am-10.30pm; m Ramakrishna Ashram
paneer kulcha sandwiches.
Marg) Named for everyone’s favourite dhal,
Everest Bakery NEPALI $ Tadka is a reliable vegetarian choice, serving
(Map p82; Chandiwalan; dishes ₹50-250; h 8am- up perfectly fine paneer dishes and other
11pm; m Ramakrishna Ashram Marg) This chilled veg treats (ordinary/special thali ₹200/280)
little fan-cooled place off the Paharganj under whirring fans.
main drag offers the usual every-sort cui-
Malhotra MULTICUISINE $$
sine, but including momos and impressive
(Map p82; 1833 Laxmi Narayan St; mains ₹80-425;
salads. There’s also a real Italian coffee ma-
h 7am-11pm; W ) One street back from the
chine, a rare beast in Paharganj.
Main Bazaar chaos, Malhotra is a reliable
Brown Bread Bakery BAKERY $ local choice, popular with locals and for-
(Map p82; Ajay Guest House, 5084-A, Main Bazaar; eigners, with a good menu of set breakfasts
snacks ₹65-150; h 7am-11pm; W ; m Ramakrishna and North Indian standards, such as mattar
Ashram Marg) A popular traveller hang-out, paneer (pea and cottage cheese curry).
with a rustic, wicker-heavy interior, organic
Brown Bread has simple food that hits the 5 Connaught Place
spot, with omelettes, pizzas, lots of different
breads and very good chips. oNaturals ICE CREAM $
(Map p68; 8 L-Block, Connaught Place; cup/cone
Bikanervala Angan FAST FOOD $ ₹65, double scoop ₹130; h 11am-midnight; m Ra-
(82 Arya Samaj Rd, Karol Bagh; mains ₹35-170; jiv Chowk) Founder Mr Kamath’s dad was a
h 11am-10.30pm; m Karol Bagh) This small but mango vendor in Bangalore, which appar-
buzzing Karol Bagh canteen is a useful pit- ently inspired his love of fruit. He went on to
stop for South Indian treats, fast food and start Naturals, with its wonderfully creamy,
snacks. Thalis start at ₹165. fresh flavours, such as watermelon, coconut,
(heavenly) mango and roasted almond.
Roshan di Kulfi ICE CREAM $
(Ajmal Khan Rd, Karol Bagh; kulfi around ₹70; oHotel Saravana Bhavan SOUTH INDIAN $$
h 8.30am-9.30pm; m Karol Bagh) A Karol Bagh (Map p68; 46 Janpath; dishes ₹95-210, thali ₹210;
institution for its scrumptious special pista h 8am-11pm; m Janpath) Fabulous dosas, idlis
badam kulfi (frozen milk dessert with pis- and other South Indian delights. This is the
tachio, almond and cardamom). It’s around biggest and the best of Delhi’s Saravana Bha-
500m northwest of Karol Bagh metro. van branches, and you can see dosas being
made in the back. Also offers great South
oShimtur KOREAN $$
Indian coffee.
(Map p82; 3rd fl, Navrang Guesthouse, Tooti Galli;
meals ₹240-500; h 10am-11pm; m Ramakrishna Kerala House SOUTH INDIAN $
Ashram Marg) It takes determination to find (Map p68; 3 Jantar Mantar Rd; meals ₹50; h 8-
this place: take the turning for the Hotel Rak 10am, 12.30-3pm & 7-9.45pm; m Patel Chowk) The
International, opposite which is the grotty, Kerala staff canteen is open to the public and
unsigned Navrang Guesthouse. Follow the tasty meals here are a lip-smacking bargain,
stairs to its rooftop and you’ll find a small, including unlimited rice, fish curry, fish fry,
bamboo-lined, softly lit terrace. The Kore- sambar, a couple of veg dishes and pickle.
88
Coffee Home INDIAN $ Farzi Cafe MODERN INDIAN $$$
(Map p68; Baba Kharak Singh Marg; meals ₹50-150; (Map p68; % 9599889700; 38 E-Block, Connaught
h 11am-8pm; m Shivaji Stadium) With a shaded Place; mains ₹360-560; h noon-12.30am; m Rajiv
garden eating area, and a spacious interior Chowk) This buzzy CP joint signifies the Del-
under whirring fans, Coffee Home is always hi foodie penchant for quirkiness, with all
busy with office workers lingering over chai sorts of ‘molecular gastronomy’ and unusual
and feasting on South Indian snacks such as fusion dishes such as butter chicken bao (in
D e lh i E at i ng

masala dosa. It is handily located next to a bun). It’s only ₹85 for Kingfisher beer, and
the government emporiums. there are banta (traditional homemade fizzy
pop) cocktails. There’s live Sufi, Hindi and
Hotel Saravana Bhavan SOUTH INDIAN $
pop music on Friday and Saturday nights
(Map p68; 15 P-Block, Connaught Place; mains ₹95- from 10pm.
210; h 8am-11pm; m Rajiv Chowk) Delhi’s best
thali is served up in unassuming surround- Chor Bizarre KASHMIRI $$
ings – a simple Tamil canteen on the edge (Map p72; % 011-23071574; Bikaner House,
of Connaught Place. There are queues every Pandara Rd; mains ₹325-500; h 12.30-3pm &
meal time to sample the splendid array of 7.30-11pm; m Khan Market) In the beautifully
richly spiced veg curries, dips, breads and restored colonial-era Bikaner House, Chor
condiments that make it onto every thali Bizarre (‘Thieves’ Market’) is a new branch
plate. of the famous Old Delhi restaurant. The in-
terior is full of quirky old-fashioned charm,
Wenger’s BAKERY $
and the menu includes authentic, delicious
(Map p68; 16 A-Block, Connaught Place; snacks dishes such as Kashmiri haaq (spinach with
₹30-100; h 10.45am-7.45pm; m Rajiv Chowk) Leg- chilli).
endary Wenger’s was opened by a Swiss cou-
ple in 1926, and has been baking up a storm
ever since. Come for cakes, sandwiches, bis- 5 New Delhi & Around
cuits and savoury patties. New Delhi, with its dazzlingly opulent five-
star hotels, malls and upmarket enclaves
Nizam’s Kathi Kabab FAST FOOD $
around Khan Market, Lodi Rd and Mathura
(Map p68; 5 H-Block, Connaught Place; kebabs
Rd, is where to head if you feel like a swanky
₹80-270; h 11.30am-11pm; m Rajiv Chowk) This
meal, with a fabulously wide mix of cuisines.
takeaway eatery creates masterful kebabs,
biryani and kati rolls (kebabs wrapped in a oAndhra Pradesh
hot paratha). It’s always busy with meat-lov- Bhawan Canteen SOUTH INDIAN $
ing hoards, but there are also paneer, mush- (Map p72; 1 Ashoka Rd; dishes ₹130-160, thalis
room and egg options available so vegies ₹110; h 8-10.30am, noon-3pm & 7.30-10pm; m Pa-
don’t have to miss out. tel Chowk) A hallowed bargain, the canteen
at the Andhra Pradesh state house serves
oMasala Library MODERN INDIAN $$$
cheap and delicious unlimited South Indi-
(Map p72; 21A Janpath; tasting menu ₹2600;
an thalis to a seemingly unlimited stream
h noon-2.45pm & 7pm-1am; m Janpath) Res-
of patrons. Come on Sunday for the fabled
taurateur Zorawar Kalra has brought his
Hyderabadi biryani (₹200).
Masala Library to Delhi (the first was in
Mumbai), with creative cooking that adds oTriveni Terrace Cafe CAFE $
a dash of magic to your meal, with molec- (Map p72; 205 Tansen Marg, Mandi House; dishes
ular cuisine and dishes such as coconut and ₹55-220; h 10am-7.30pm; m Mandi House) Run
mango amuse-bouche disguised as a bird’s by the same folks in charge of the Craft
nest and levitating chocolate balls. Arrive Museum’s Cafe Lota, this is a focus for Del-
hungry and try the 19-course tasting menu. hi’s arty set, with good-value tasty Indian
meals and snacks, such as chilli toast, and
oRajdhani INDIAN $$$
nice seating on a leafy terrace overlooking
(Map p68; % 011-43501200; 1/90 P-Block, Con-
a grassy amphitheatre or inside in a fan-
naught Place; thalis ₹475; h noon-3.30pm &
cooled room.
7-11pm; m Rajiv Chowk) Thalis fit for a king.
Treat yourself with food-of-the-gods vegetar- Gujarat Bhawan GUJARATI $
ian thalis that encompass a fantastic array of (Map p72; 11 Kautilya Marg, Chanakyapuri; break-
Gujarati and Rajasthani dishes. fast ₹60, thali ₹110-140; h 8-10am, 12.30-2.30pm &
 89
7.30-10pm; m Racecourse) The Gujarat Stater- oAlkauser STREET FOOD $$
un canteen is nothing fancy, but serves up (Map p72; www.alkausermughlaifood.com; Kautilya
nourishing, plentiful, cheap-as-chips vege- Marg; kebabs from ₹170, biryani from ₹280; h 6-
tarian home-style Gujarati thalis. 10.30pm) The family behind this hole-in-the-
wall takeaway earned their stripes cooking
Kebab Stands STREET FOOD $
kebabs for the Nawabs of Lucknow in the
(Map p72; Hazrat Nizam-ud-din Dargah; kebabs
1890s. The house speciality is the kakori
from ₹30; h noon-11pm; m JLN Stadium) The al-

D e lh i E at i ng
kebab, a pâte-smooth combination of lamb
ley in front of Hazrat Nizam-ud-din Dargah
and spices, but other treats include biryani
becomes a hive of activity every evening as
and perfectly prepared lamb burra (mari-
devotees leave the shrine in search of sus-
nated chops) and murg malai tikka (chick-
tenance. Canteen-style kebab houses cook
en marinated with spices and paneer).
up lip-smacking beef, mutton and chicken
offerings at bargain prices, with biryani and Epicuria FOOD HALL $$
roti as filling side orders. (Map p76; Nehru Place; fast-food dishes ₹100-300;
m Nehru Place) This is a food court where you
Nagaland House INDIAN $
can select fast food from a variety of outlets,
(Map p72; 29 Dr APJ Abdul Kalam Rd; thalis ₹120-
including Karim’s, Khanchacha, Sagar Ratna
200; h noon-2pm & 7.30-10pm; m Racecourse)
and more. You buy a card for ₹500 then pay
The Nagaland canteen is a simple room
with it at any outlet – if there’s change you
overlooking a tangle of palm trees and is
can get the money back from the cashier. It
worth seeking out for punchy pork offer-
also houses some more formal restaurants,
ings, with dishes such as pork with bamboo
including Italian Fio and Dhaba by Claridges.
shoots and a Naga-style pork thali. Veg and
chicken thalis are also available. Sagar Ratna SOUTH INDIAN $$
(Map p72; The Ashok, 50B, Diplomatic Enclave;
oCafe Lota MODERN INDIAN $$
dishes ₹240-350; h 8am-11pm) Considered the
(Map p72; Crafts Museum; dishes ₹215-415; best of all the Sagar Ratna locations around
h 8am-10pm; m Pragati Maidan) Bamboo slic-
town, this venerable South Indian restau-
es the sunlight into flattering stripes at this rant is always buzzing with families, couples
outdoor restaurant offering delicious cook- and kitty parties, and does a great line in
ing with a twist. Sample their take on fish dosas, idlis, uttapams (savoury rice pan-
and (sweet potato) chips, or palak patta cakes) and thalis. There are other branches
chaat (crispy spinach, potatoes and chick- in Connaught Place (Map p68; 15-K Block,
peas with spiced yoghurt and chutneys), as Connaught Place; dishes ₹115-170; h 8am-11pm;
well as amazing desserts and breakfasts. It’s m Rajiv Chowk) and Defence Colony (Map
great for kids. p76; Defence Colony Market; dishes ₹115-170;
Caara Cafe CAFE $$ h 8am-11pm; m Lajpat Nagar).
(Map p68; % 1204569000; British Council, 17,
Kasturba Gandhi Marg; mains ₹160-350; h 8am-
oSana-di-ge MANGALOREAN $$$
(Map p72; % 011-405077777; 24/48 Commercial
8pm Mon-Sat, 8am-6pm Sun) In the British
Centre, Malcha Marg; mains ₹345-900; h noon-
Council is this most serene, light-filled cafe,
3.45pm & 7-11.30pm) Fresh fish is flown in
hung with Brit art from their collection, so
daily from Mangalore to this buzzing res-
you can sip tea and coffee and nibble on
taurant in the diplomatic district. There are
healthy-looking cakes, vegetable curry and
an intimate three levels, decorated with ge-
salads against the backdrop of a few Dami-
ometric screens and with a terrace and bar.
an Hirsts.
Food is wonderful and authentic, so head
oSodabottleopenerwala PARSI $$ here for anjal fry, crab pepper fry, marvai
(Map p72; Khan Market; dishes ₹85-900; h noon- (clams) or the signature elaneer payasam.
11pm; m Khan Market) The name is like a typ-
ical trade-based Parsi surname, the place
oBukhara INDIAN $$$
(Map p72; % 011-26112233; ITC Maurya, Sardar
emulates the Iranian cafes of Mumbai, and
Patel Marg; mains ₹800-2600; h 12.30-2.45pm
the food is authentic Persian, including veg-
& 7-11.45pm) One of Delhi’s best restaurants,
etable berry pulav, mixed-berry trifle and
this hotel eatery with low seating and crazy-­
lagan nu custer (Parsi wedding custard).
paving walls serves wow-factor Northwest
Frontier–style cuisine, with silken kebabs
90
and its famous Bukhara dhal. Reservations
are essential. 5 South Delhi
There are some fantastic independent
Perch INTERNATIONAL $$$
restaurants tucked into the southern sub-
(Map p72; Khan Market; snacks & dishes ₹110-950,
urbs of Hauz Khas, Shahpur Jat, Saket and
wine by the glass ₹300-650, cocktails ₹450-650;
Mehrauli.
h 11.30am-1am; W ; m Khan Market) The cooli-
fication of upscale shopping enclave Khan Potbelly NORTH INDIAN $$
D e lh i E at i ng

Market continues apace with Perch, a wine (Map p76; 116C Shahpur Jat Village; mains ₹250-
bar–cafe that’s all pared-down aesthetic, 420, thalis ₹250; h 12.30-11pm; m Hauz Khas)
waiters in pencil-grey shirts, soothing mu- It’s a rare treat to find a Bihari restaurant
sic, international wines and pleasing inter- in Delhi, and this artsy, shabby-chic place
national snacks such as Welsh rarebit and with fabulous views has authentic thalis and
tiger prawn with soba noodles. dishes such as litti chicken (whole-wheat
balls stuffed with sattu and served with
La Bodega MEXICAN $$$
khada masala chicken).
(Map p72; % 011-43105777; 29, 1st fl, Middle Lane,
Khan Market; dishes ₹325-925; h noon-midnight; oIndian Accent INDIAN $$$
m Khan Market) This chic-yet-cool restaurant (Map p76; % 011-26925151; Manor, 77 Friends Col-
has big windows over leafy views, and of- ony (West); dishes ₹725-1425, tasting menu non-
fers interesting Mexican street food in small veg/veg ₹2995/3095) In the boutique hotel
plates such as duck tacos with refried beans, Manor (p85), chef Manish Mehrotra creates
pico de gallo and guacamole, as well as que- inspired modern Indian cuisine, where sea-
sadillas or burritos with chicken and inter- sonal ingredients are married in surprising
esting salads. and beautifully creative combinations. The
tasting menu is astoundingly good, with
Basil & Thyme ITALIAN $$$
wow-factor combinations such as tandoori
(Map p72; Sundar Nagar Market; mains ₹465-745;
bacon prawns or paper dosa filled with wild
h 11am-11pm; m Khan Market) This elegant icon
mushroom and water chestnuts. Book well
has shifted locales but still buzzes with ex-
ahead.
pats and locals, who flock to dine on delicate
Mediterranean flavours (no alcohol), in a se- Rose Cafe CAFE $$$
rene, leafy setting. (Map p76; % 011-29533186; 2 Westend Marg, Said-
ullajab; dishes ₹299-520; h noon-9pm; m Saket)
Lodi Garden Restaurant MEDITERRANEAN $$$
Almost opposite the fake Dilli Haat market,
(Map p72; % 011-24652808; Lodi Rd; mains ₹600-
‘Delhi Haat’, an unprepossessing building
1400; h 12.30pm-12.30am; m Jor Bagh) This gar-
harbours the Rose Cafe, prettily pale blue
den restaurant is mostly about ambience:
and pink. It’s all cake stands and freshly
there are lanterns dangling from the trees,
prepared Mediterranean and comfort food,
tables in curtained pavilions and wooden
with heart-warming dishes such as shep-
carts. Although not quite as impressive as
herd’s pie, pancakes and all-day breakfasts.
the surroundings, the menu traverses Eu-
rope and the Middle East, and there’s a pop- Swagath SOUTH INDIAN $$$
ular Sunday brunch. (Map p76; M9 M-Block Market; dishes ₹300-1300;
h noon-11.45pm; m Kailash Colony) Serving
Pandara Market INDIAN $$$
supremely scrumptious Indian seafood
(Map p72; Pandara Rd; mains ₹400-800; h noon-
(especially crab, prawns, lobster and fish),
1am; m Khan Market) This is the enduring go-
Swagath will take you on a culinary tour
to place for excellent Mughlai and Punjabi
through the fishing villages of South India in
food. Prices, standards and atmosphere are
inauthentically smart surroundings. There
high along the strip. For quality food, try
are several branches, including at Defence
Gulati (Map p72; Pandara Market; mains ₹385-
Colony Market (Map p76; 14 Defence Colony
685; h noon-midnight; m Khan Market), Have-
Market; dishes ₹365-1300; h 11.30am-11.30pm;
more (Map p72; Pandara Market; mains ₹375-725;
m Lajpat Nagar).
h noon-2am; m Khan Market), Pindi (Map p72;
Pandara Market; mains ₹330-570; h noon-mid- Coast SOUTH INDIAN $$$
night; m Khan Market) or Chicken Inn (Map p72; (Map p76; above Ogaan, Hauz Khas; dishes ₹360-
Pandara Market; mains ₹380-700; h noon-mid- 580; h noon-midnight; m Green Park) A light,
night; m Khan Market). bright restaurant on several levels, with
 91
views over the parklands of Hauz Khas, Jugmug Thela TEAHOUSE
chic Coast serves light South Indian dishes, (Map p76; Khasra 258, Westend Marg, Saidulajab;
such as avial (vegetable curry) with pump- h 10am-8.30pm; m Saket) A hidden surprise
kin erisheri (with black lentils), plus tacos, in a tiny back lane, this is an artisanal tea
salads and hit-the-spot mustard-­ tossed specialist styled as a streetside tea stall.
fries. They have more than 180 herbs and spices
to work with, and serve delicious ayurvedic
6 Drinking & Nightlife

D e lh i D r i nk i ng & N i ghtl i fe
teas and fine blends such as Kinnow and
Delhi’s ever-growing cafe scene has giv- Rose Earl Grey, iced teas and coffees, plus
en rise to some cafes with artisanal coffee organic coffee and homebaked cookies.
beans, coffee menus and Turkish pastries. Keventer’s Milkshakes CAFE
The city’s bar and live-music choices are (Map p68; 17 A-Block, Connaught Place; h 9am-
also burgeoning, though licences rarely 11pm; m Rajiv Chowk) Keventer’s has a cult fol-
extend later than 12.30am. For the latest lowing for its legendary creamy milkshakes
places to go at night, check the hip and (₹100), slurped out of milk bottles on the
informative Little Black Book (http://little- pavement in front of the stand.
blackbookdelhi.com) or Brown Paper Bag
(http://bpbweekend.com/delhi). For gigs, Café Turtle CAFE
check Wild City (thewildcity.com). (Map p72; Full Circle Bookstore, Khan Market;
h 9.30am-8.30pm; m Khan Market) Allied to
Cafes
the Full Circle Bookstore (p95), this brightly
oBlue Tokai CAFE painted boho cafe gets busy with chatter-
(Map p76; Khasra 258, Lane 3 West End Marg, ing bookish types, and is ideal when you’re
Saidulajab; h 9am-8.30pm; m Saket) In an un- the mood for coffee and cake in cosy sur-
likely, tiny lane behind the fake Dilli Haat roundings, with a leafy outdoor terrace as
shopping centre (‘Delhi Haat’), Blue Tokai well. There are branches in GK1’s N-Block
produces and grinds its own amazing cof- Market (Map p76; N-Block Market, Greater Kai-
fee; you can get serious caffeine hits such as lash I; h 8.30am-8.30pm; m Kailash Colony) and
nitrogen-infused cold brew – there’s even a Nizamuddin East (Map p72; 8 Nizamuddin East
tasting menu. Snacks include ‘no leaf salad Market, Full Circle Bookstore; h 8.30am-8.30pm;
with pumpkin’. m Jangpura).
Feeling more like San Francisco than
a dusty Mehrauli lane, it’s full of hipster Kunzum Travel Cafe CAFE
Delhi-ites saying things like ‘that is so (Map p76; www.kunzum.com; T49 Hauz Khas Vil-
millennial!’ lage; h 11am-7.30pm Tue-Sun; W ; m Green Park)
S Quirky Kunzum has a pay-what-you-like
oAtrium, Imperial CAFE policy for the self-service French-press cof-
(Map p68; Janpath; h 8am-11.30pm; m Janpath) fee and tea, and sells its own brand of travel
Is there anything more genteel than high guides to Delhi. There’s free wi-fi and travel
tea at the Imperial? Sip tea from bone-china books and magazines to browse.
cups and pluck dainty sandwiches and cakes
from tiered stands, while discussing the lat- Bars
est goings-on in Shimla and Dalhousie. High o1911 BAR
tea is served in the Atrium from 3pm to (Map p68; Imperial Hotel, Janpath; h 11am-
6pm daily (weekday/weekend ₹1200/1500 12.45am; m Janpath) The Imperial, built in
plus tax). the 1930s, resonates with bygone splendour.
This bar is a more recent addition, but still
Indian Coffee House CAFE riffs on the Raj. Here you can sip the perfect
(Map p68; 2nd fl, Mohan Singh Place, Baba Kharak cocktail (around ₹900) amid designer-clad
Singh Marg; h 9am-9pm; m Rajiv Chowk) Indian clientele, against a backdrop of faded photos
Coffee House has faded-to-the-point-of-di- and murals of maharajas.
lapidated charm, with the waiters’ plum-
mage-like hats and uniforms giving them a oPiano Man Jazz Club CLUB
rakish swagger. You can feast on finger chips (Map p76; http://thepianoman.in; B 6 Commer-
and sandwiches like it’s 1952, and the roof cial Complex, Safdarjung Enclave; h noon-3pm &
terrace is a tranquil spot to linger. 7.30pm-12.30am) The real thing, this popular,
atmospheric place with proper-musos is a
92
dim-lit speakeasy with some excellent live Aqua BAR
jazz performances. (Map p68; Park Hotel, 15 Sansad Marg; h 11am-mid-
night; W ; m Janpath) If you feel the need for
oBandstand BAR some five-star style after visiting Jantar
(Map p76; Aurobindo Market; h noon-1am; W ; Mantar or shopping in Connaught Place,
m Green Park) This popular place is near Aqua is an ideal place to flop, forget the
Hauz Khas and has a great glass-covered world outside, and sip cocktails by the pool.
terrace with views over the tombs of Green
D e lh i D r i nk i ng & N i ghtl i fe

Park. It’s also one of Delhi’s live-music ven- Karen Cafe BAR
ues, with gigs from 9pm on Thursday and (Map p82; Arakashan Rd; h 9am-11pm; m New Del-
Sunday. hi) An escape from the fraught street level,
this tiny rooftop cafe has a few tables and
oEk Bar BAR a good viewpoint for overlooking the street.
(Map p76; D17, 1st fl, Defence Colony; h noon- It’s decorated with Bob Marley posters,
3.30pm & 6pm-12.30am; m Lajpat Nagar) On the wicker chairs and hanging lamps, and, while
upper floors of a building in the exclusive the service is slow and the food basic, it’s as
area of the Defence Colony, this place has chilled as you’ll get on this strip.
stylish, kooky decor in deep, earth-jewel col-
ours, serious mixology (drinks ₹250 to ₹800) Sam’s Bar BAR

showcasing Indian flavours (how about a (Map p82; Main Bazaar; h 11am-1am; m Ramakr-
gin and tonic with turmeric?), modern In- ishna Ashram Marg) Sam’s Bar is more laid-
dian bar snacks, nightly DJs, and a see-and- back than most Paharganj bars, and a good
be-seen crowd. choice for a drink and a chat, with a mixed
crowd of men and women, locals and for-
oUnplugged BAR eigners. There are snacks and a range of
(Map p68; % 011-33107701; 23 L-Block, Connaught local (₹150 Kingfishers) and international
Place; h noon-midnight; m Rajiv Chowk) There’s beers and spirits.
nowhere else like this in Connaught Place.
You could forget you were in CP, in fact, with Gem BAR

the big garden, wrought-iron chairs and ta- (Map p82; 1050 Main Bazaar, Paharganj; h 11am-
bles, and swing seats, all under the shade of 12.30am; m Ramakrishna Ashram Marg) This
a mother of a banyan tree hung with bas- wood-panelled dive is the kind of place you
ket-weave lanterns. In the evenings there are can forget what time of day it is – a dark,
regular live gigs, anything from alt-rock to long-standing Paharganj hang-out that’s
electro-fusion. A Kingfisher costs ₹100. popular with (male) locals and other travel-
lers; bottles of local beer cost from ₹140. The
Hauz Khas Social BAR upstairs area has more atmosphere.
(Map p76; 9A & 12 Hauz Khas Village;
h 10.30am-midnight; m Green Park) This My Bar BAR

chilled-out place is a Hauz Khas hub, and (Map p82; Main Bazaar, Paharganj; h 11am-
has large rooms with plate-glass windows 12.30pm; m Ramakrishna Ashram Marg) A dark
overlooking lush greenery. There are cock- and dingy bar, this place is lively, loud and
tails and snacks, and a busy smokers’ ter- fun, with a cheery, mixed crowd of back-
race. There’s also regular live music and DJs. packers and locals, who may even start
dancing… There are several other branch-
Summer House BAR es, in CP and Hauz Khas. Drinks are ₹70 to
(Map p76; 1st fl, Aurobindo Place Market; h 11am- ₹300 (beer from ₹85).
1am; m Green Park) Close to Hauz Khas, this
roomy, rustic 1st-floor bar has a spacious Metro Bar BAR

terrace and is a popular, lively evening (Map p82; 19 Panchkuian Rd; h 11am-1am;
m Ramakrishna Ashram Marg) Tucked around
haunt for a mixed crowd of men and wom-
en. There’s regular live music. A Kingfisher the corner from the Ramakrishna Ashram
costs ₹175. Marg metro station is a row of much-of-a-
muchness bars that are favoured by local
24/7 BAR businessmen, with not particularly talented
(Map p64; Lalit Hotel, Maharaja Rajit Singh Marg; female singers belting out requests from the
h 24hr; m Barakhamba Rd) The 24-hour lobby clientele. Metro Bar is the pick of the bunch
bar at the Lalit Hotel is the perfect spot for – fun and friendly, with good Indian food.
a welcome-to-Delhi drink after a long flight.
 93
3 Entertainment around of Bollywood hits, this Connaught
Music & Cultural Performances Place cinema, open since 1932, is a popular
place to catch the latest releases. As of 2017
Habitat World LIVE PERFORMANCE
it also includes the Delhi branch of Madame
(Map p72; % 011-43663333; www.habitatworld.
Tussauds.
com; India Habitat Centre, Lodi Rd; m Jor Bagh)
This is an important Delhi cultural address,
with art exhibitions, performances and con-
7 Shopping

D e lh i E nterta i nment
certs, mostly free. They also arrange regular Meharchand Market MARKET

Delhi walks. (Map p72; Lodi Colony; m Lodhi Colony) Across

the road from the government housing of
India International Centre LIVE PERFORMANCE the Lodi Colony, this is a long strip of small
(Map p72; % 011-24619431; www.iicdelhi.nic.in; 40 boutiques selling homewares and clothes.
Max Mueller Marg; m Khan Market) The IIC is Shops include Fabindia (Map p72; h 11am-
a key location for a sector of Delhi society, 8pm), the Shop (Map p72; h 10am-8pm Mon-
usually elderly intellectuals. Although the Sat, 11am-6pm Sun), and stand-out eateries are
club is for members only, the public is wel- the organic Altitude Cafe (Map p72; mains
come to the regular, quality, free exhibitions, ₹340-580; h 8am-5pm; W ) and Asian-tapas
talks and concerts. restaurant Diva Spiced (Map p72; tapas ₹320-
560, mains ₹390-1200; h 11.30am-11.30pm).
Cinemas
Delite Cinema CINEMA Timeless BOOKS
(Map p64; % 011-23272903; www.delitecinemas. (Map p76; % 011-46056198; 46 Housing Society,
com; 4/1 Asaf Ali Rd; m New Delhi) Founded in Part I, South Extension; h 10am-7pm Mon-Sat)
1954 as the tallest building in Delhi, the Hidden in a back lane (ask around), Time-
Delite was renovated in 2006 and it’s no less has a devoted following for its quality
ordinary cinema, with a painted dome and coffee-table books on topics from Indian tex-
Czech chandeliers. It’s a great place to see tiles to architecture.
a masala picture (full-throttle Bollywood, a
mix of action, comedy, romance and drama), Delhi Musical Stores MUSIC

with famous extra-large samosas available (Map p76; % 23276909; www.indianmusicalinstru-

in the interval. ments.com; C99 Lajpat Nagar; h 11am-8pm Mon-
Sat; m Lajpat Nagar) Delhi Musical Stores has
Regal Cinema CINEMA a fine choice of tablas, harmoniums, sitars
(Map p68; front/back stalls ₹80/100, balcony and more.
₹100/120; m Rajiv Chowk) With a regular turn-

KUSHTI
Wander the districts north of Kashmere Gate in Old Delhi and you may notice a dispro-
portionately high number of muscular men. No, it’s not your imagination. This dusty
quarter is the favoured stomping ground for Delhi’s traditional mud wrestlers. Kushti, or
pehlwani, is a full-contact martial art, fusing elements of yoga and philosophy with com-
bat and intense physical training.
Young men enrol at akharas (training centres) in their early teens, and follow a strict
regimen of daily exercise, climbing ropes, lifting weights and hauling logs to build up the
necessary muscle bulk for this intensely physical sport. Even diet and lifestyle is strictly
controlled; sex, tobacco and alcohol are forbidden, and wrestlers live together in rustic
accommodation under the supervision of a coach who doubles as spiritual guide.
Bouts take place on freshly tilled earth, adding an extra element of grit to proceed-
ings. As with other types of wrestling, the aim is to pin your opponent to the ground, but
fights often continue until one wrestler submits or collapses from exhaustion. At regional
championships, wrestlers compete for golden gadas (ceremonial clubs), a tribute to the
favoured weapon of Hanuman, patron deity of wrestling.
Most akharas welcome spectators at the daily dawn and dusk training sessions, so
long as this doesn’t interfere with training. Seek permission first to avoid offending these
muscle-bound gents – the blog http://kushtiwrestling.blogspot.com is a good introduc-
tion to the sport and the main akharas.
94
Aap Ki Pasand (San Cha) DRINKS OCM Suitings CLOTHING
(Map p64; 15 Netaji Subhash Marg; h 10am-7pm (Map p72; % 011-24618937; Khan Market; h 11am-
Mon-Sat) Specialists in the finest Indian teas, 8pm Mon-Sat; m Khan Market) Men’s wool suits
from Darjeeling and Assam to Nilgiri and from ₹9500 (including material) and an-
Kangra. You can try before you buy, and teas kle-length skirts from ₹550 (excluding ma-
come lovingly packaged in drawstring bags. terial). Suits are ready in around seven to 10
There’s another branch at Santushti Shop- days.
D e lh i S hopp i ng

ping Complex (Map p72; % 011-264530374;

www.sanchatea.com; Racecourse Rd; h 10am- Musical Instrument
6.30pm Mon-Sat; m Racecourse). Shops MUSICAL INSTRUMENTS
(Map p64; Netaji Subhash Marg; h approx 10am-
Daryaganj Kitab Bazaar MARKET 8pm Mon-Sat) For competitively priced instru-
(Book Market; Map p64; h 8am-6pm Sun) Come ments, inspect the instrument shops along
Sunday, books spread across the pavements Netaji Subhash Marg in Daryaganj.
for around 2km from Delhi Gate northwards
to the Red Fort, and a shorter distance west Rikhi Ram MUSIC

along Jawaharlal Nehru Marg. Rummage (Map p68; % 011-23327685; www.rikhiram.com; 8A

for everything from Mills & Boon to vintage G-Block, Connaught Place; h noon-8pm Mon-Sat;
m Rajiv Chowk) A beautiful old shop selling
children’s books. It’s best to arrive early, as
it gets busy. professional classic and electric sitars, tablas
and more.
Anokhi CLOTHING
(Map p72; www.anokhi.com; 32 Khan Market;
h 10am-8pm; m Khan Market) Anokhi special-
7 Old Delhi
ises in block-print clothes and homewares, Main Bazaar HANDICRAFTS, CLOTHING

showcasing traditional designs with a mod- (Map p82; Paharganj; h 10am-9pm Tue-Sun;
ern design sensibility. There are branches m Ramakrishna Ashram Marg) The backpack-
at the Santushti Shopping Complex (Map er-oriented bazaar that runs through Pa-
p72; h 10am-7pm Mon-Sat; m Racecourse) and harganj sells almost everything you want,
N-Block Market (Map p76; Greater Kailash and a whole lot more. It’s great for buying
I; h 10am-8pm; m Kailash Colony), with a dis- presents, clothes, inexpensive jewellery bits
count store in Nizamuddin East (Map p72; and bobs, and luggage to put everything in
h 10am-8pm Mon-Sat). as you’re leaving India, or for hippy-dippy

OLD DELHI’S BAZAARS

Old Delhi’s bazaars are a bamboozling, sensual whirlwind, combining incense, spices
strong enough to make you sneeze, rickshaw fumes, brilliant colours, and hole-in-the-
wall shops packed with goods that shimmer and glitter. This is less retail therapy, more
heightened reality. The best time to visit is midmorning or later in the day, when the
streets are less busy.
Whole districts here are devoted to individual items. Chandni Chowk (Map p64;
h 10am-7pm Mon-Sat; m Chandni Chowk) is all clothing, electronics and break-as-soon-as-
you-buy-them novelties. For silver jewellery, head for Dariba Kalan (Map p64; h approx
10am-8pm; m Chawri Bazaar), the alley near the Sisganj Gurdwara. Off this lane, the Kinari
Bazaar (Map p64; Kinari Bazaar; h 11am-8pm; m Jama Masjid), literally ‘trimmings market’,
is famous for zardozi (gold embroidery), temple trim and wedding turbans. Running
south from the old Town Hall, Nai Sarak (Map p64; h approx 10am-8pm; m Jama Masjid) is
lined with stalls selling saris, shawls, chiffon and lehanga, while nearby Ballimaran (Map
p64; Ballimaran; h 10am-8pm; m Chandni Chowk) has sequined slippers and fancy, curly-
toed jootis (traditional slip-on shoes). For gorgeous wrapping paper and wedding cards,
head to Chawri Bazaar (Map p64; h 10am-7pm), leading west from the Jama Masjid.
Beside the Fatehpuri Masjid, on Khari Baoli, is the nose-numbing Spice Market (Ga-
dodia Market; Map p64; Khari Baoli; m Chandni Chowk), ablaze with piles of scarlet-red chillis,
ginger and turmeric roots, peppercorns, cumin, coriander seeds, cardamom, dried fruit
and nuts. There’s a constant trail of workers carrying huge sacks on their heads, and the
spices in the air are so strong that everyone keeps sneezing.
 95
clothes to wear on your trip. Haggle with for metal statues; and Odisha, for stone
purpose. carvings.
Karol Bagh Market MARKET Janpath & Tibetan Markets ARTS & CRAFTS
(Map p64; h approx 10am-7pm Tue-Sun; m Karol (Map p68; Janpath; h 11.30am-7pm Mon-Sat;
Bagh) Favoured for clothes and wedding m Rajiv Chowk) These twin markets sell shim-
shopping, this market shimmers with all mering mirrorwork embroidery, colourful
things sparkly, from dressy lehanga cho- shawls, Tibetan bric-a-brac, brass Oms and

D e lh i S hopp i ng
li (skirt-and-blouse sets) to princess-style dangly earrings. There are some good finds
shoes. There are also electronics at Gaffar if you rummage through the junk, and if you
market (head here if you need a cracked haggle you can get some excellent bargains.
phone screen replaced) and chrome motor-
cycle parts. Khadi Gramodyog Bhawan CLOTHING
(Map p68; Baba Kharak Singh Marg; h 10.30am-
8pm; m Rajiv Chowk) S Known for its excel-
7 Connaught Place lent khadi (homespun cloth), including
oCentral Cottage Industries good-value shawls, plus handmade paper,
Emporium ARTS & CRAFTS incense, spices, henna and lovely natural
(Map p68; % 011-23326790; Janpath; h 10am-7pm; soaps.
m Janpath) This government-run multilevel
M Ram & Sons CLOTHING
store is a wonderful treasure trove of fixed- (Map p68; % 011-23416558; 21 E-Block, Connaught
price, India-wide handicrafts. Prices are Place; h 10.30am-8pm; m Rajiv Chowk) A popu-
higher than in the state emporiums, but the lar Delhi tailor, offering suits from ₹8000.
selection of woodcarvings, jewellery, pottery, Tailoring is possible in 24 hours.
papier mâché, stationery, brassware, tex-
tiles (including shawls), toys, rugs, beauty Oxford Bookstore BOOKS
products and miniature paintings makes it (Map p68; N81 Connaught Place; h 10am-9.30pm
a glorious one-stop shop for beautiful crafts. Mon-Sat, 11am-9.30pm Sun; m Rajiv Chowk) A
Downstairs there’s the Smoothie Factory cafe. swish but somewhat soulless bookstore,
where you could nevertheless browse for
oKamala ARTS & CRAFTS hours. Staff are not as knowledgable as at
(Map p68; Baba Kharak Singh Marg; h 10am-7pm other Delhi bookshops, although it sells
Mon-Sat; m Rajiv Chowk) Crafts, curios, textiles good gifts, such as handmade paper note-
and homewares from the Crafts Council of books. The attached Cha Bar (Map p68; Oxford
India, designed with flair and using tradi- Bookstore, N81 Connaught Place; h 10am-9.30pm
tional techniques but offering some contem- Mon-Sat, 11am-9.30pm Sun; m Rajiv Chowk) is a
porary, out-of-the-ordinary designs. buzzing meeting spot.
oPeople Tree HANDICRAFTS, CLOTHING
(Map p68; Regal Bldg, Sansad Marg; h 11am-7pm; 7 New Delhi
m Rajiv Chowk) S This hole-in-the-wall shop oKhan Market MARKET
sells fixed-price, fair-trade, ubercool T-shirts (Map p72; h approx 10.30am-8pm Mon-Sat;
with funky Indian designs and urban at- m Khan Market) S Khan Market is Delhi’s
titude, as well as bags, jewellery and Indi- most upmarket shopping enclave, the most
an-god cushions. expensive place to rent a shop in India, and
oState Emporiums HANDICRAFTS, CLOTHING
is favoured by the elite and expats. Its bou-
(Map p68; Baba Kharak Singh Marg; h 11am- tiques focus on fashion, books and home-
1.30pm & 2-6.30pm Mon-Sat; m Shivaji Stadium) wares, and it’s also a good place to eat and
Handily in a row are these regional treas- drink.
ure-filled emporiums. They may have the air For handmade paper, check out Anand
of torpor that often afflicts governmental en- Stationers (Map p72; h 10am-8pm Mon-Sat,
terprises, but shopping here is like travelling noon-6pm Sun), or try Mehra Bros (Map p72;
h 10am-7pm Mon-Thu & Sat, 10am-8pm Fri, 11am-
around India – top stops include Kashmir,
for papier mâché and carpets; Rajasthan, 6pm Sun) for cool papier-mâché ornaments.
for miniature paintings and puppets; Uttar Literature lovers should head to Full Circle
Pradesh, for marble inlay work; Karnataka, Bookstore (Map p72; www.fullcirclebooks.in;
h 9.30am-8.30pm) and Bahrisons (Map p72;
for sandalwood sculptures; Tamil Nadu,
www.booksatbahri.com; h 10.30am-7.30pm Mon-
96
still well worth a browse. This arty little
enclave has narrow lanes crammed with
SHAHPUR JAT boutiques selling designer Indian clothing,
A 1km rickshaw ride northeast from handicrafts, contemporary ceramics, hand-
Hauz Khas metro, the urban village of made furniture and old Bollywood movie
Shahpur Jat is one of the best places posters. Shops to seek out include Claymen
in Delhi to buy upmarket independent (Map p76; h hours vary), Maarti, Ogaan and
D e lh i Informat i on

designer threads. Stores to seek out in- Bodice.

clude Nimai (Map p76; % 011-64300113; Dastkar Nature Bazaar MARKET
416 Shahpur Jat Village; h 11am-7.30pm; (http://dastkar.org; Andheria Modh; h 10am-7pm
m Hauz Khas) for one-of-a-kind costume
Tue-Sun; m Chhatarpur) Not-for-profit NGO
jewellery and NeedleDust (Map p76; Dastkar promotes regional crafts, and its
www.needledust.com; 40B, ground fl, outdoor craft bazaar holds monthly themed
Shahpur Jat; h 10.30am-7.30pm Mon-Sat, events, showcasing cutting-edge regional
11am-6.30pm Sun; m Hauz Khas) for em- culture, craft and food.
broidered leather shoes, and there are
some choice independent restaurants, Greater Kailash I: M-Block
such as artsy Bihari Potbelly (p90), & N-Block Markets MARKET
and vegan organic Greenr (Map p76; (Map p76; h approx 10am-8pm Wed-Mon; m Kai-
% 7042575339; mains ₹250-375; h 11am- lash Colony) A two-part midrange shopping
7.30pm; W ; m Hauz Khas). For superb enclave with swanky boutiques and posh
fine tea tastings head to Anandini Tea eateries, best known for Fabindia, which
Room (Map p76; 12A, DDA Flats; h 11am- has several branches here. Also check out
7pm; m Hauz Khas). clothes store Anokhi.

Sat, 11.30am-7.30pm Sun). For Indian clothes 88 Information

and homewares, hit Fabindia (Map p72; DANGERS & ANNOYANCES
h 10.30am-9.30pm) and Anokhi (p94), and Delhi is relatively safe in terms of petty crime,
for elegantly packaged ayurvedic remedies, though pickpocketing can be a problem in
browse Kama (Map p72; h 10.30am-8.30pm). crowded areas so keep your valuables safe.
Sunder Nagar Market ARTS & CRAFTS Train Station Hassle
(Map p72; Mathura Rd; h approx 10.30am-7.30pm Touts at New Delhi train station endeavour to
Mon-Sat) Long-time genteel and sleepy Sun- steer travellers away from the legitimate Inter-
dar Nagar has turned increasingly chic. It’s national Tourist Bureau and into private travel
long specialised in Indian and Nepali hand- agencies where they earn a commission. Touts
icrafts, replica ‘antiques’, furniture and fine often tell people that their tickets are invalid,
Indian teas, but much-loved restaurant Basil there’s a problem with the trains, or say they’re
not allowed on the platform. They then ‘assist’
& Thyme (p90) has moved here, and there’s
in booking expensive taxis or 3rd-class tickets
the cool watering hole, No 8. passed off as something else. You’re particularly
vulnerable when arriving tired at night. As a rule
7 South Delhi of thumb: don’t believe anyone who approaches
you trying to tell you anything at the train sta-
oDilli Haat ARTS & CRAFTS tion, even if they’re wearing a uniform or have an
(Map p76; Aurobindo Marg; foreigner/Indian official-looking pass.
₹100/20; h 10.30am-10pm; m INA) This open-
air food-and-crafts market is a cavalcade of Women Travellers
colour and sells regional handicrafts from Delhi has, unfortunately, a deserved reputation
all over India; bargain hard. With lots of as being unsafe for women. Precautions include
food stands, it’s also a good place to sample never walking around in lonely, deserted places,
even during daylight hours, keeping an eye on
cheap, delicious regional specialities – try
your route so you don’t get lost (download a map
food from Nagaland or Tamil Nadu (dishes that you can use offline) and taking special care
are around ₹70 to ₹100). after dark – ensure you have a safe means of
transport home with, for example, a reputable
oHauz Khas Village HANDICRAFTS, CLOTHING
cab company or driver.
(Map p76; h 11am-7pm Mon-Sat; m Green Park)
It’s not as hip as it was a few years ago, but
 97
Touts Courier services may be arranged through
Taxi-wallahs at the airport and around tourist DHL (Map p68; % 011-23737587; ground fl,
areas frequently act as touts for hotels, claiming Mercantile Bldg, Tolstoy Marg; h 8am-8pm
that your hotel is full, poor value, dangerous, Mon-Sat; m Rajiv Chowk) at Connaught Place.
burnt down or closed, or that there are riots in TOURIST INFORMATION
Delhi. Any such story is a ruse to steer you to a
Archaeological Survey of India (Map p72;
hotel where they will get a commission. Insist on
% 011-23010822; www.asi.nic.in; Janpath;
being taken to where you want to go – making a

D e lh i G ett i ng T here & Away

h 9.30am-1pm & 2-6pm Mon-Fri; m Central
show of writing down the registration plate num- Secretariat) Next door to the National Museum,
ber, and phoning the autorickshaw/taxi helpline the Archaeological Survey of India stocks publi-
may help. Men who approach you at Connaught cations about India’s main archaeological sites.
Place run similar scams to direct you to shops
India Tourism Delhi (Government of India; Map
and tourist agents, often ‘helpfully’ informing
p68; % 011-23320005, 011-23320008; www.
you that wherever you’re headed is closed.
incredibleindia.org; 88 Janpath; h 9am-6pm
INTERNET ACCESS Mon-Fri, to 2pm Sat; m Janpath) This is the
Almost all hotels and many cafes offer free wi-fi only official India Tourism office, apart from the
access these days. booth at the airport. Ignore touts who (falsely)
claim to be associated with this. It’s a useful
MEDIA source of advice on Delhi, getting out of Delhi,
¨¨ For printed listings see the weekly calendar and visiting surrounding states. Has free Delhi
pamphlet Delhi Diary (₹30), which is available maps and brochures, and publishes a list of
at local bookshops. Motherland (www.mother recommended agencies and B&Bs. Come here
landmagazine.com) is a stylish bi-monthly to report tourism-related complaints.
cultural magazine.
¨¨ To check out what’s on, see the ubercool 88 Getting There & Away
Little Black Book (www.littleblackbookdelhi.
com) or Brown Paper Bag (brownpaperbag.in/ AIR
delhi). Don’t miss the Delhi Walla blog (www. Indira Gandhi International Airport (p1195)
thedelhiwalla.com), a wonderful window into is about 14km southwest of the centre. Inter-
Delhi’s daily life. national and domestic flights use gleaming
Terminal 3. Terminal 1 is reserved for low-cost
MEDICAL SERVICES carriers. Free shuttle buses (present your
Pharmacies are found on most shopping streets boarding pass and onward ticket) run between
and in most suburban markets. Hospitals: the two terminals every 20 minutes, but can
All India Institute of Medical Sciences take much longer. Leave at least three hours
(AIIMS; Map p76; % 011-65900669; www.aiims. between transfers to be safe.
edu; Ansari Nagar; m AIIMS) The arrivals hall at Terminal 3 has 24-hour
Apollo Hospital (% 011-29871090; www. foreign exchange, ATMs, prepaid taxi and car-
apollohospdelhi.com; Mathura Rd, Sarita Vihar; hire counters, tourist information, a pharmacy,
m Sarita Vihar) bookshops, cafes and a Plaza Premium Lounge
(% 011-61233922; s/d 3 hr US$37/52, 6 hr
Dr Ram Manohar Lohia Hospital (Map p72;
52/66) with short-stay rooms (there’s another
% 011-23365525; www.rmlh.nic.in; Baba
of these at Terminal 1 arrivals).
Kharak Singh Marg; m Patel Chowk)
You’ll need to show your boarding pass to
East West Medical Centre (Map p72; % 011-
enter the terminal. At check-in be sure to collect
24690429; www.eastwestrescue.com; 37
tags for all your carry-on bags and ensure these
Prithviraj Rd; m Racecourse)
are stamped as you go through security.
Max Healthcare (Map p76; % 011-26515050;
Press Enclave Rd, Saket; m Saket) Delhi’s airport can be prone to thick fog from
November to January (often disrupting airline
POST schedules) – it’s wise to allow a day between
There are post offices all over Delhi that can connecting flights during this period.
handle letters and parcels (most with packing Air India (% 1800 1801407; www.airindia.com)
services nearby). Poste restante is available Jagson Airlines (Map p68; % 011-23721593;
at the New Delhi office of India Post (Map p72; www.jagsongroup.in; Vandana Bldg, 11 Tolstoy
% 011-23743602; Gole Dakhana, Baba Kharak Marg; h 10am-6pm Mon-Sat; m Janpath)
Singh Marg; h 10am-5pm Mon-Sat); ensure mail Jet Airways (Map p68; % 011-39893333; www.
is addressed to GPO, New Delhi – 110001. There jetairways.com; 11/12 G-Block, Connaught
is a convenient India Post branch at Connaught Place; h 9.30am-6pm Mon-Sat; m Rajiv
Place (Map p68; 6 A-Block, Connaught Place; Chowk)
h 8am-7.30pm Mon-Sat; m Rajiv Chowk). SpiceJet (% 1800 1803333; www.spicejet.com)
98
BUS Pandara Rd; m Khan Market) runs deluxe
Most travellers enter and leave Delhi by train, buses from Bikaner House (Map p72; % 011-
but buses are a useful option to some destina- 23383469; Pandara Rd; m Khan Market), near
tions and if the trains are booked up. India Gate, to the following destinations:
Most state-run services leave from the large Ajmer Volvo ₹1200, nine hours, three daily
Kashmere Gate Inter State Bus Terminal Jaipur non AC/super deluxe/Volvo
(ISBT; Map p64; % 011-23860290; m Kashmere ₹400/625/900, six hours, every one to two
hours
D e lh i G ett i ng A round

Gate) in Old Delhi, accessible by metro. Offices

at the terminal: Jodhpur Volvo ₹1625, 11 hours, two daily
Delhi Transport Corporation (Map p64; Udaipur Volvo ₹1800, 15 hours, one daily
% 011-23370210; www.dtc.nic.in) Women receive a discount of 30% on all Ra-
Haryana Roadways (Map p64; % 011- jasthan Tourism bus prices.
23868271; www.hartrans.gov.in)
TRAIN
Punjab Roadways (Map p64; % 011-
44820000; www.punbusonline.com) There are three main stations in Delhi: (Old)
Rajasthan Roadways (Map p64; % 011- Delhi train station (aka Delhi Junction) in Old
23386658, 011-23864470; Counter 36, Kash- Delhi, New Delhi train station near Paharganj,
mere Gate Inter State Bus Terminal) and Nizamuddin train station, south of Sunder
Nagar. Make sure you know which station your
Rajasthan State Road Transport Corporation
(Map p64; % 011-23864470; http://rsrtc. train is leaving from.
rajasthan.gov.in) The best option for foreign travellers is to visit
Uttar Pradesh Roadways (Map p64; % 011- the helpful International Tourist Bureau (ITB;
23868709) Map p82; % 011-23405156; 1st fl, New Delhi
Train Station; h 24hr). The entrance to the ITB is
Uttar Pradesh State Road Transport Corpo- before you go onto platform 1 (on the Paharganj
ration (Map p64; % 011-2622363; www.upsrtc.
side of New Delhi train station), via a staircase
com)
just to the right of the entrance to the platform.
The Anand Vihar Inter State Bus Terminal Do not believe anyone who tells you it has shifted,
(ISBT) has some services to Nainital and Ku- closed or burnt down – this is a scam to divert
maun in Uttarakhand. Some cheaper buses to you elsewhere. Walk with confidence and ignore
destinations in Uttar Pradesh, Madhya Pradesh all ‘helpful’ or ‘official’ approaches. The ITB is a
and Rajasthan leave from the Sarai Kale Khan large room with about 10 or more computer ter-
Inter State Bus Terminal (ISBT) on the ring minals – don’t be fooled by other ‘official’ offices.
road near Nizamuddin train station.
When making reservations here, you can pay
Arrive at least 30 minutes ahead of your de- in cash (rupees) only. Bring your passport.
parture time. You can avoid the hassle by paying
When you arrive, take a ticket from the ma-
a little more for private deluxe buses that leave
chine that gives you a place in the queue. Then
from locations in central Delhi – enquire at travel
complete a reservation form – ask at the infor-
agencies or your hotel for details.You can also
mation counter to check availability. You can
book tickets or check information on Cleartrip
then wait to complete and pay for your booking
(www.cleartrip.com), Make My Trip (www.make-
at the relevant counter. This is the best place to
mytrip.com) or Goibibo (www.goibibo.com).
get last-minute bookings for quota seats to pop-
There are buses to Agra, but considering the ular destinations, but come prepared to queue.
traffic at either end, you’re better off taking the
There’s also a public Train Reservation Office
train. Himachal Pradesh Tourism Develop-
(Map p82; Chelmsford Rd; h 8am-8pm Mon-
ment Corporation (HPTDC; Map p72; hptdc.
Sat, to 2pm Sun) closer to Connaught Place, but
gov.in; Chanderlok Building, 36 Janpath; m Jan-
touts here are notorious for targetting travellers.
path) runs buses from Himachal Bhawan (Map
p72; % 011-23716689; Sikandra Rd; m Mandi
House) to Manali (₹1300, nine hours) and Shimla 88 Getting Around
(₹900, 10 hours) at 6.30pm. Tickets are sold at TO/FROM THE AIRPORT
Himachal Bhawan and Chanderlok House (Map
p72; % 011-23325320; 36 Janpath). Whatever time your flight arrives, it’s a good
idea to book a hotel in advance and notify staff of
Himachal Road Transport Corporation your arrival time – some places may allow you to
(HRTC; % 011-23868694; www.hrtc.gov.in) also check in early. Organised city transport runs to/
has AC buses starting from Himachal Bhawan, from Terminal 3; a free shuttle bus runs every 20
to Shimla (₹935, seven daily) and to Manali
minutes between Terminal 3 and Terminal 1.
(₹1430, 7pm). These stop at the ISBT Kashmiri
Gate an hour later. Pre-arranged Pick-ups Hotels offer pre-ar-
ranged airport pick-up, but these are usually
Rajasthan Tourism (Map p72; % 011-
more expensive than arranging a taxi yourself –
23381884; www.rtdc.com; Bikaner House,
however, it may be worth it to ease your arrival.
 99
You’ll pay extra to cover the airport parking 5.15am to 11.40pm, completing the journey
fee (up to ₹220) and ₹100 charge to enter the from Terminal 3 to New Delhi train station in
arrivals hall. To avoid the entry fee, drivers may around 20 minutes (International/domestic ter-
wait outside Gates 4 to 6. minal–New Delhi, ₹60/50). It’s usually empty
Metro The Airport Express line (www.delhimet because it’s a separate line from the rest of the
rorail.com) runs every 10 to 15 minutes from metro. You can use a smart card, or buy a token

D e lh i G ett i ng A round
MAJOR TRAINS FROM DELHI
TRAIN NO & DURATION DEPARTURES &
DESTINATION NAME FARE (₹) (HR) FREQUENCY TRAIN STATION
Agra 12280 Taj Exp 100/370 (A) 3 1 daily 7am NZM
12002 Bhopal 515/1010 (B) 2 1 daily 6am NDLS
Shatabdi
Amritsar 12029/12013 790/1620 (B) 6 1-2 daily 7.20am/4.30pm
Swarna/Amrit- NDLS
sar Shatabdi
Bengaluru 22692 Banga- 2960/4095/6775 34 4 weekly 8.50pm NZM
lore Rajdhani (C)
Chennai 12434 Chennai 2795/3860/6355 28 2 weekly 3.55pm NZM
Rajdhani (C)
12622 Tamil 780/2040/2990 33 1 daily 10.30pm NDLS
Nadu Exp (D)
Goa (Madgaon) 12432 Trivan- 3385/4730/7815 26 3 weekly 10.55am NZM
drum Rajdhani (C)
12780 Goa Exp 170/540/740 (D) 27 1 daily 3pm NZM
Haridwar 12017 Dehradun 595/1190 (B) 4½ 1 daily 6.45am NDLS
Shatabdi
Jaipur 12958 ADI 1210/1660/2755 4½ 1 daily 7.55pm NDLS
Swama Jayanti (C)
Rajdani
12916 Ashram 235/590/825 (D) 5 1 daily 3.20pm DLI
Exp
12015 Ajmer 355/740 (B) 4½ 1 daily 6.05am NDLS
Shatabdi
Kalka (for 12011 Kalka 640/1295 (B) 4 2 daily 7.40am NDLS
Shimla) Shatabdi
Khajuraho 12448 UP Sam- 365/955/1350 (D) 10½ 1 daily 8.10pm NZM
park Kranti Exp
Lucknow 12004 Lucknow 885/1850 (B) 6½ 1 daily 6.10am NDLS
Swran Shatabdi
Mumbai 12952 Mumbai 2085/2870/4755 16 1 daily 4.45pm NDLS
Rajdhani (C)
12954 August 2085/2870/4755 17½ 1 daily 4.50pm NZM
Kranti Rajdani (C)
Udaipur 12963 Mewar 415/1095/1555 12½ 1 daily 7pm NZM
Exp (D)
Varanasi 12560 Shiv- 415/1100//1565 12½ 1 daily 6.55pm NDLS
ganga Exp (D)

Train stations: NDLS – New Delhi; DLI – Old Delhi; NZM – Hazrat Nizamuddin
Fares: (A) 2nd class/chair car; (B) chair car/1st-class AC; (C) 3AC/2AC/1st-class AC; (D)
sleeper/3AC/2AC
100
for the other lines at Airport station; check with costs from ₹2000 (an eight-hour and 80km
customer services. limit applies).
Bus Air-conditioned buses run from outside Metropole Tourist Service (Map p72; % 011-
Terminal 3 to Kashmere Gate ISBT every 10 24310313; www.metrovista.co.in; 224 Defence
minutes, via the Red Fort, LNJP Hospital, New Colony Flyover Market; h 7am-7pm) is another
Delhi Station Gate 2, Connaught Place, Parlia- reliable and long-running taxi service, and good
ment St and Ashoka Rd. value, charging ₹1500 for up to 80km for one
Taxi In front of the arrivals buildings at Termi- day’s car and driver hire, plus ₹100/15 per
D e lh i G ett i ng A round

nal 3 and Terminal 1 are Delhi Traffic Police hour/kilometre thereafter.

Prepaid Taxi counters (% complaints 56767, Shared electric rickshaws are also a possibili-
women’s helpline 1091; www.delhitrafficpolice. ty, which means cheaper fares, but only if you’re
nic.in) offering fixed-price taxi services. You’ll going in the same direction as other passengers.
pay about ₹350 to New or Old Delhi, and ₹450
to the southern suburbs in a battered old Radiocabs
black-and-yellow taxi. There’s a 25% surcharge You’ll need a local mobile number to order a radi-
between 11pm and 5am. Travellers have re- ocab, or ask a shop or hotel to assist you. These
ported difficulty in persuading drivers to go air-conditioned cars are clean, efficient, and use
to their intended hotel. Firmly insist that the reliable meters, usually charging ₹23 at flagfall
driver takes you to your chosen destination and then ₹23 per kilometre. Try Easycabs (% 011-
only surrender your voucher when you arrive 43434343; www.easycabs.com) or Quickcabs
where you want. (% 011-45333333; www.quickcabs.in).
You can also book a prepaid taxi at the Mega- Taxi & Auto Apps
cabs counter (% 011-41414141; www.megacabs.
com) at both the international and domestic Car-sharing services Uber (www.uber.com) and
terminals. It costs ₹600 to ₹700 to the centre, Ola Autos & Cabs (www.olacabs.com) have
but you get a cleaner car with air-con. transformed travel around Delhi. If you have
a local number and a smartphone, download
AUTORICKSHAW & TAXI these apps and you can arrange pick-ups from
Local taxis (recognisable by their black and your exact location (though the car/auto will
yellow livery) and autorickshaws have meters sometimes stop a little way away), then pay the
but these are effectively ornamental as most electronically calculated fee in cash when you
drivers refuse to use them. Delhi Traffic Police complete the journey and thus side-stepping
run a network of prepaid autorickshaw booths, much haggling. Uber was banned in 2014 follow-
where you can pay a fixed fare, including 24-hour ing an assault by one of its drivers but checks
stands at the New Delhi, Old Delhi (Map p64; have been improved since.
h 24hr) and Nizamuddin (Map p72) train sta-
BUS
tions; elsewhere, you’ll need to negotiate a fare
before you set off. With the arrival of the metro, travellers rarely
use Delhi’s public buses, which can get crowded,
Other booths are outside the India Tourism
but there are several useful routes, including the
Delhi office (Map p68; 88 Janpath; h 11am-
Airport Express bus (₹75) and Bus GL-23, which
8.30pm) and at Central Park (Map p68), Con-
connects the Kashmere Gate and Anand Vihar
naught Place.
bus stations. AC fares are ₹10 to ₹25.
Fares are invariably elevated, especially
for foreigners, so haggle hard, and if the fare CYCLE-RICKSHAW
sounds too outrageous, find another cab. For an Cycle-rickshaws are useful for navigating Old
autorickshaw ride from Connaught Place, fares Delhi and the suburbs, but are banned from
should be around ₹30 to Paharganj, ₹60 to the many parts of New Delhi, including Connaught
Red Fort, ₹70 to Humayun’s Tomb and ₹100 to Place. Negotiate a fare before you set off – ex-
Hauz Khas. However, it will be a struggle to get pect to pay around ₹10 per kilometre.
these prices. Visit www.taxiautofare.com for
suggested fares for these and other journeys. To METRO
report overcharging, harassment, or other prob- Delhi’s metro (% 011-23417910; www.delhimet
lems take the licence number and call the Auto rorail.com) is superb: fast and efficient, with
Complaint Line on 011-42400400/25844444. signs and arrival/departure announcements in
Taxis typically charge twice the autorickshaw Hindi and English. Trains run from around 6am
fare. Note that fares vary as fuel prices go up to 11pm and the first carriage in the direction of
and down. From 11pm to 5am there’s a 25% travel is reserved for women only. Trains can get
surcharge for autorickshaws and taxis. insanely busy at peak commuting times (around
Kumar Tourist Taxi Service (Map p68; % 011- 9am to 10am and 5pm to 6pm) – avoid travelling
23415930; www.kumarindiatours.com; 14/1 with luggage during rush hour if at all possible
K-Block, Connaught Place; h 9am-9pm) is a (however, the Airport Express is always empty,
reliable company; a day of Delhi sightseeing as it’s separate from the other lines).
 101
Tokens (₹8 to ₹50) are sold at metro stations. lar that is much more ancient than any of
There are also one-/three-day ‘tourist cards’ the surrounding monuments. It hasn’t rust-
(₹150/300, ₹50 deposit, ₹30 refundable when ed over the past 1600 years, due to both the
you return it) for unlimited short-distance travel, dry atmosphere and its incredible purity. A
and a Smart Card (₹150, ₹50 deposit, ₹30 re- six-line Sanskrit inscription indicates that it
fundable), which can be recharged for amounts
was initially erected outside a Vishnu tem-
from ₹200 to ₹1000 – these make fares 10%
cheaper than paying by token.
ple, possibly in Bihar, in memory of Chan-

D e lh i G reater D elh i
dragupta II, who ruled from AD 375 to 413.
Because of security concerns, all bags are
X-rayed and passengers must pass through an
Scientists are at a loss as to how the iron was
airport-style scanner. cast using the technology of the time.

oMehrauli Archaeological Park PARK

(Map p76; h dawn-dusk; m Qutab Minar) F
GREATER DELHI There are extraordinary riches scattered
around Mehrauli, with more than 440
oQutb Minar Complex HISTORIC SITE monuments – from the 10th century to
(Map p76; % 011-26643856; Indian/foreigner the British era – dotting a forest and the
₹30/500, video ₹25, Decorative Light Show Indian/ village itself. In the forest, most impressive
foreigner ₹20/250, audio guide ₹100; h dawn- are the time-ravaged tombs of Balban and
dusk; m Qutab Minar) If you only have time Quli Khan, his son, and the Jamali Khama-
to visit just one of Delhi’s ancient ruins, li mosque, attached to the tomb of the Sufi
make it this. The first monuments here poet Jamali. To the west is the 16th-century
were erected by the sultans of Mehrauli, and Rajon ki Baoli, Delhi’s finest step-well, with
subsequent rulers expanded on their work, a monumental flight of steps.
hiring the finest craftsmen and artisans to At the northern end of Mehrauli village
set in stone the triumph of Muslim rule. The is Adham Khan’s Mausoleum, which was
Qutb Festival (p57) of Indian classical music once used as a British residence, then later
and dance takes place here every October/ as a police station and post office. Leading
November. To reach the complex, take the northwards from the tomb are the pre-Is-
metro to Qutab Minar station, then take an lamic walls of Lal Kot.
autorickshaw for the 1km to the ruins. To the south of the village are the remains
¨¨Qutb Minar of the Mughal palace, the Zafar Mahal, once
(Map p76) The Qutb Minar that gives the in the heart of the jungle. Next door to it is
complex its name is an unmissable, soar- the Sufi shrine, the Dargah of Qutb Sahib.
ing Afghan-style victory tower and minaret, There is a small burial ground with one emp-
erected by sultan Qutb-ud-din in 1193 to pro- ty space that was intended for the last king of
claim his supremacy over the vanquished Delhi, Bahadur Shah Zafar, who died in exile
Hindu rulers of Qila Rai Pithora. Ringed by in Burma (Myanmar) in 1862. South of here is
intricately carved sandstone bands bearing a Lodi-era burial ground for hijras (tranves-
verses from the Quran, the tower stands tites and eunuchs), Hijron ka Khanqah (Map
nearly 73m high and tapers from a 15m-di- p76; Kalka das Marg; h dawn-dusk). The identity
ameter base to a mere 2.5m at the top. of those buried here is unknown, but it’s a
¨¨Quwwat-ul-Islam Masjid well-kept, peaceful place, revered by Delhi’s
hijra community. A little further south are
(Might of Islam Mosque; Map p76) At the foot of
Jahaz Mahal (‘ship palace’, also built by the
the Qutb Minar stands the first mosque to
Mughals) and the Haus i Shamsi tank (off
be built in India. An inscription over the east
Mehrauli-Gurgaon Rd).
gate states that it was built with materials
You can reach the forested part of the
obtained from demolishing ‘27 idolatrous
park by turning right from the metro station
temples’. As well as intricate carvings that
onto Anuvrat Marg and walking around
show a clear fusion of Islamic and pre-Islam-
500m. A good way to explore the ruins is by
ic styles, the walls of the mosque are studded
guided walking tour.
with sun disks, shikharas and other recog-
nisable pieces of Hindu and Jain masonry. oTughlaqabad FORT
This was Delhi’s main mosque until 1360. (Indian/foreigner ₹15/200, video ₹25; h dawn-
¨¨Iron Pillar dusk; m Tughlakabad) This magnificent
(Map p76) In the courtyard of the Quw- 14th-century ruin, half reclaimed by jungle
wat-ul-Islam Masjid is a 6.7m-high iron pil- and gradually being encroached on by vil-
102
lages, was Delhi’s third incarnation, built by 4 Sleeping
Ghiyas-ud-din Tughlaq. The sultan poached Gurgaon is full of five-star and luxury busi-
workers from the Sufi saint Nizam-ud-din, ness hotels, catering to the many business
who issued a curse that shepherds would in- travellers who stay here, as well as to holi-
habit the fort. However, it’s monkeys rather daymakers who fancy luxurious accommo-
than shepherds that have taken over. There dation that’s less expensive than in Delhi’s
are fantastic emerald-green views. Inter- city centre, and close to the area’s many
D e lh i G

linking underground rooms were used as luxury malls. There is also a smattering of
storehouses. To reach the fort, take an au- guesthouses and humbler hotels.
torickshaw from the Tughlakabad metro
Harry’s Bed & Breakfast
S iurgaon

(one way/return ₹80/160). B&B $$

reater
ghts D(G

(% 987169996, 9810158515; www.harrysbedand

breakfast.com; Plot 40, Silver Oaks Avenue, DLF
Gurgaon (Gurugram) 1; s/d ₹2300/2800; a W ; m Sikanderpur) The
unmistakable aromas of southern spices
The area of Gurgaon (Gurugram) is said to
elh

welcome you into this Tamil-owned B&B in

urugram

have been presented to Guru Dronacharaya a quiet corner of Gurgaon. Spacious, well-
i

in gratitude for his teaching by its rulers, the lit rooms have plush interiors and en suite
Kaurava and Pandava, hence its recent Ma- bathrooms, and there’s complimentary wi-
habharata-inspired name change to Guru- fi and a sumptuous breakfast. One room
gram. Delhi’s foremost satellite city was once
)

comes kitted out with its own tiny garden.

a collection of villages and farmland, but its With notice, the hosts can rustle up a full
fortunes changed when the car company Tamil meal.
Maruti Suzuki India Limited set up a manu-
facturing base here in the 1970s. Change ac- oTikli Bottom HOTEL $$$
celerated in the 1990s, and Gurgaon is now a (www.tiklibottom.com; Manender Farm, Gairatpur
booming new town, a concrete-laden devel- Bas; s/d incl full board ₹12,000/21,000; W s )
opment of telecommunications companies, Around 50km south of central Delhi, this
call centres, malls, office blocks and hotels, peachy Lutyens-style bungalow surround-
with India’s third-highest income per capita. ed by wooded hills, run by a British couple,
seems to come from another era, one of
1 Sights toasted teacakes, lawns and chintz. There
Sultanpur National Park NATIONAL PARK are four high-ceilinged guest rooms and spa-
(http://haryanaforest.gov.in/SultanpurNation- cious lounges, plus a beautiful pool with hill
alPark.aspx; Sultanpur; foreigner/Indian ₹40/5, views overlooked by a pagoda.
camera/video ₹25/500; h 7am-4.30pm) It’s in- You can also come here for a day, hang
credible to think that Gurgaon is only 15km out for lunch (adult/aged 12 to 18/under 12
away from Sultanpur National Park. These ₹1750/800/300) and explore the countryside
wetlands shimmer with local and visiting with its rambling chickens and emus. For
migratory birds, including kingfishers, fla- day visitors wanting to swim, the day charge
mingoes, geese, teal and storks. It’s best to for a room is ₹4500.
get here in early morning, and you can stay
Trident HOTEL $$$
overnight at government-run Rosy Pelican
(www.tridenthotels.com; 443, Udyog Vihar, Phase
Tourist Complex (% 0120-4355020; r from
V, Sector 19; r from ₹15,500; aW s ; m IFF-
₹2175). The easiest way to get here is by taxi
CO Chowk) A contemporary palace, with
from Gurgaon.
Mughal-style domes and reflection pools,
Museo Camera MUSEUM this has huge rooms and all facilities, and
(% 9810009099; www.indiaphotoarchive.org; offers good value compared with city-centre
T-23/5, DLF Phase III; requested donation per per- five stars. There are excellent eating options
son ₹300; Rapid Metro Phase III) This wonderful and a separate Sunday brunch for kids as
museum grew out of the collection of Indian well as adults.
photographer Aditya Arya, with the oldest
photographs here dating to the 1880s. Meet 5 Eating
the Sinar – the Rolls-Royce of cameras – and Gurgaon has many great places to eat,
the same model of Hasselblad that went to though only in the midrange to top-end
the moon and back. You can also see some price brackets, and as it’s all so new, places
incredible early photos, dating to the 1850s. can feel rather soulless. However, not only
 103
are there some great hotel restaurants, but 6 Drinking
there’s also DLF Cyber Hub, which is dedi- Gurgaon has lots of drinking and nightlife
cated entirely to gastronomy. options, particularly at DLF Cyber Hub and
Fat Lulu’s PIZZA $$ along Golf Course Rd, and is popular with
(% 0124-4245497; Cross Point DLF City IV, DLF middle-class locals for a night out, with
Galleria Rd, Gurgaon; pizzas from ₹425; h 11.30am- plenty of bars and restaurants offering live
11pm) A delightful little eatery opposite the music. DLF Cyber Hub also includes a pop-

D e lh i G
popular Galleria Market, Fat Lulu’s has ular comedy club, the People & Co. As in
thin-crust pizzas loaded with toppings, from Delhi, most places only open until 12.30am.
classic Italian to those with an Indian twist

Dr
3 Entertainment

urgaon
reater
(chicken tikka masala). It has a quirky and

i nk i ngD(G
colourful dining room that will appeal to Kingdom of Dreams THEATRE
those who like a bit of ambience on the side. (% 0124-4528000; www.kingdomofdreams.in; Au-
ditorium Complex, Sector 29; Culture Gully ₹599
DLF Cyber Hub INTERNATIONAL $$

elh
refundable on a purchase, shows from ₹1099 Tue-
(www.dlfcyberhub.com; DLF Cyber City, Phase

urugram
Fri, ₹1199 Sat & Sun; h 12.30pm-midnight Tue-Fri,
II, NH8; mains from ₹200; h most restaurants

i
noon-midnight Sat & Sun, showtimes vary; m IFFCO
11am-midnight; Rapid Metro DLF Cyber City) This Chowk) An entertainment extravaganza for
is a food court par excellence, and you’ll find lovers of Bollywood cinema, Kingdom of
any type of cuisine you fancy here. Stand- Dreams offers an out-and-out sensory assault.

)
outs include Sodabottleopenerwala, for You can take in one of three musicals at the
Parsi cusine; the cool Gurgaon Social, with Nautanka Mahal, supported by world-class
private rooms; Farzi Cafe, for molecular techno-wizardry, as the cast swing, swoop
cuisine and cheap beer; the People & Co for and sing from the rafters. There’s a free shut-
live comedy; Yum Yum Cha for funky de- tle here from the metro every 15 minutes.
cor and pan-Asian food; and Sion 7 for craft
beer brewed on site. 7 Shopping
oAmaranta SEAFOOD, INDIAN $$$ Gurgaon offers a certain kind of shopping
(% 0124-2451234; The Oberoi, 443 Udyog Vihar, heaven, whole streets lined by flashy malls,
Phase V; mains ₹1900-2100; h 12.30-3pm & with lots of big-name labels and chainstores,
7pm-midnight; m IFFCO Chowk) The Oberoi plus a few local independent names to spice
Gurgaon’s swish restaurant wins plaudits up the mix, such as Atelier Mon (www.atelier-
for its creative Indian cuisine. Its seafood is mon.com; 27/4, Deodar Marg, Block A, Sector 26A;
outstanding, flown in daily from the coast, h 11am-6pm Mon-Sat; m Sikanderpur).
but for the full experience try a seven- or
nine-course tasting menu (veg/non-veg 88 Transport
₹4000/5900). Rapid Metrorail Gurgaon (http://rapidmetro
gurgaon.com/home; fare ₹20) This 5km circu-
lar track has trains running every five minutes,
and connects Sikanderpur with DLF Cyber City.
 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

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