HERBES

DE PROVENCE
Herbes de Provence is a classic French blend like fines herbes, but it consists of
stronger herbs and is a more assertive seasoning. Fennel and/or celery seeds,
dried lavender, marjoram, rosemary, basil, sage, summer savory, and thyme are
the usual ingredients, but some blends are made with fewer herbs; although
lavender is certainly traditional, some cooks find it overpowering and prefer to
leave it out. Herbes de Provence makes a flavorful rub for meats, including
steaks, or poultry that will be grilled; it is also good with roast chicken. It is
added to some stews and is very good sprinkled over ripe tomatoes before they
are roasted for tomatoes Provençal.

HING
See Asafoetida.

HOJA SANTA
BOTANICAL NAMES: Piper auritum, P. sanctum
OTHER NAMES: yerba santa, hierba santa, momo, acuyo, pepperleaf, pepper
plant, root beer plant
FORMS: fresh and dried leaves

The hoja santa plant is native to Central America and goes by a variety of names
throughout Latin America. It also grows wild in the American Southwest, and in
southern United States it is sometimes called the root beer plant because of the
scent of its leaves. The large, velvety, heart-shaped leaves have a strong anise
flavor and a slightly peppery flavor—not surprising, since the plant is a member
of the pepper family. Hoja santa—the name means “holy leaf”—is an important
herb in Mexican cooking, particularly in the southern part of the country, and is
used in a variety of ways. The whole fresh leaves can serve as wrappers for
tamales and other foods, imbuing them with the herb’s distinctive flavor. They
are also used in the green moles of Oaxaca, in pozole and other soups, and in
seafood sauces. The flavor of the dried leaves is not as intense as that of the
fresh, but they can be crumbled and used to flavor soups, sauces, and other
dishes.

HYSSOP
BOTANICAL NAME: Hyssopus officinalis
FORMS: fresh and dried leaves
Hyssop is an ancient perennial herb that is native to the Mediterranean. It is a
member of the mint family, and its flavor is slightly bitter, with sweeter minty
notes. The plant looks something like tarragon, with long, narrow leaves, and
both the stems and leaves are used (as are the flowers). Hyssop was originally
valued for its medicinal uses more than as a culinary herb. It is good in soups
and stews, such as cassoulet, and in other bean or legume dishes—crumble the
leaves before adding them to bring out their fragrance and flavor. It can also be
added, sparingly, to rubs for grilled lamb or pork. Hyssop is said to aid in the
digestion of fatty foods (speaking of cassoulet), and it is used to make tisanes or
herbal teas. It is also one of the many herbs in Chartreuse, the French liqueur
that has been made only by an order of monks since the 1600s (the secret
formula is said to list more than a hundred herbs and other plants).
I
INDONESIAN BAY LEAVES
See Salam Leaves.

INDONESIAN LIME
See Kaffir Lime Leaves.
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JAMAICA PEPPER
See Allspice.

JAMAICAN JERK SEASONING

See Charmoula and Other Spice Pastes.

JAPANESE HORSERADISH
See Wasabi.

JEERA
See Caraway and Cumin.

JUNIPER
BOTANICAL NAME: Juniperis communis OTHER NAMES: juniper berries
FORMS: dried berries Juniper berries come from a small evergreen shrub that is
native to southern Europe and the Mediterranean, as well as Norway, Russia,
and North America. There are many different species, some of which grow wild
all over Europe, but the major areas of cultivation today are Italy, eastern
Europe, and Turkey. Juniper has been valued for medicinal purposes for
centuries, and both magical and safekeeping properties have been attributed to it
since biblical times.
Juniper berries are picked when they are ripe and have turned blue-black.
They can take up to three years to mature on the bush, one reason that they are a
relatively pricey spice; another is that they are usually harvested by hand, as
machine-harvesting can crush the berries, and the plants have sharp, needle-like
leaves, making picking the berries an arduous task. In addition, because of their
long maturation time, both ripe and immature berries will be found on the same
bush, so the pickers have to be careful to differentiate between them. Once dried,
the berries may have a slightly dimpled appearance; they also often display
remnants of a cloudy whitish bloom, but this is simply a harmless mold. The best
dried berries are still slightly soft; avoid those that are rock-hard, as they will
have little fragrance or flavor. The aroma of juniper is sharp, spicy, and piney,
even turpentine-y, and the taste is equally sharp, slightly resinous, and
bittersweet. More than anything, the smell and taste is that of gin—juniper
berries are used to flavor gin, and the name gin is derived from the Dutch word
for juniper, genever.
Juniper berries should always be crushed before using. They go particularly
well with game, both game birds and meats such as venison or, in Scandinavia,
reindeer, and are often used in marinades, rubs, or sauces for these. Their
pungent flavor cuts the richness of fatty meats like duck and pork, and they are
used in pâtés and terrines. In Germany and Alsace, the berries often flavor
sauerkraut and pickles. They pair well with other spices, including rosemary,
sage, thyme, and bay leaves, as well as with garlic and onions. In addition to
flavoring gin, juniper berries are used in various liqueurs in Belgium, Holland,
and Germany.

MEDICINAL USES: Juniper is used in folk medicine to treat intestinal

problems, among other ills, and is considered an anti-inflammatory.

Caution: Juniper should be avoided by pregnant women and anyone with a

kidney disorder (it has sometimes been prescribed as a diuretic).
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 PREVIOUS SPREAD, CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT: khmeli-suneli, Kashmiri masala, kaffir lime
leaves, kokum, and ground kaffir lime leaves

KAFFIR LIME LEAVES

BOTANICAL NAME: Citrus hystrix
OTHER NAMES: wild lime, Indonesian lime, makrut
FORMS: fresh and whole and ground dried leaves

The kaffir lime tree is native to Southeast Asia, as is all citrus, but, unlike with
other citrus fruits, traditionally only the zest—not the pulp and juice—was used,
along with the leaves, which are used fresh or dried. The double-lobed leaves are
unusual looking, composed of two oval leaves growing end to end. They are
dark green, shiny, and very aromatic. Their fragrance is that of a blend of citrus
fruits, a strong lime scent with lemony undertones, and it is also reminiscent of
lemongrass or lemon verbena; the flavor is clean, sharp, and citrusy.
The dried leaves are not as aromatic as the fresh, but if they have been
properly treated, they will add their characteristic citrus tang to a variety of
dishes. Dried kaffir lime leaves are sold both whole and ground.
Kaffir lime leaves are widely used in Indonesia and Thailand, as well as in
Vietnam and some other regions of Southeast Asia. Many versions of pho, the
classic Vietnamese beef broth, include kaffir lime, and it flavors other soups,
stews, stir-fries, and curries. If the leaves are added whole to the dish, they are
often removed before serving.
Note: Although the tree is commonly known as kaffir lime in the West, kaffir is
a derogatory term in South Africa that many prefer to avoid, calling it wild lime
or Indonesian lime instead. Makrut is the Thai name, and the leaves are
sometimes identified that way.
KALONGI
See Nigella.

KAPOK BUDS
See Marathi Moggu.

KENCUR
See Galangal.

KASHMIRI MASALA
Kashmiri masala is a spice blend used to season many dishes in India’s
northernmost state, including elaborate Moghul-style preparations. A more
complex blend may include coriander, cumin, garlic, turmeric, black pepper,
dried chiles (preferably Kashmiri chiles), cinnamon, nutmeg and/or mace,
fennel, and cloves, but there are many simpler versions as well. Kashmiri masala
is the essential seasoning for rogan josh, the region’s famous lamb curry.

KHMELI-SUNELI
Khmeli-suneli is a classic spice and herb blend from Georgia that is popular
throughout the Caucasus regions. The name translates literally as “dried spice,”
and the mix, a coarse powder, is found in many incarnations. Fenugreek (both
seeds and dried leaves), savory (winter or summer), black pepper, hyssop, and
coriander are considered basic ingredients, but most blends contain many more,
such as marjoram, mint, bay leaves, parsley, and/or dill, and dried marigolds are
often included. The aroma is complex, and the flavor is warm and grassy.
Khmeli-suneli is the defining seasoning for karcho, a hearty soup made with
beef, lamb, or chicken, and it is essential in satsivi, a walnut sauce that is part of
many dishes. It also seasons chahohbili, a traditional chicken stew, and other
stews, and it is very good with dried beans.

KIRMIZI CHILE
See Red Pepper Flakes.

KOKUM
BOTANICAL NAME: Garcinia indica
OTHER SPELLINGS: kokam, cocum
FORMS: semidried and dried

Kokum is the fruit of a tropical evergreen tree native to India’s western coast; in
fact, it grows only in India and is virtually unknown elsewhere. It is related to
the mangosteen, and it bears purple fruits that look like small plums or passion
fruits.
 The fruits are picked when they are ripe. Then they are halved, the pulp is
removed, and the rinds are dried in the sun; often they are rubbed with salt to
hasten the drying process. The fruit darkens as it dries, turning dark purple to
black. Black kokum is the form most often found; it is also called wet kokum,
and the rinds are still pliable and moist. White kokum is dried longer and it is
also known simply as dried kokum; sometimes these fruits have been cut into
slices rather than halved, and they will still contain their hard whitish seeds,
which should be removed before use.
Kokum is primarily used as a souring agent, though it also adds a pinkish-
purple color to any dish seasoned with it. It has a tart, slightly sweet, astringent
flavor. Black kokum that has been salted during the drying process can be quite
salty and should be rinsed before using. White kokum is usually soaked before
being used to soften it, making it easier to remove the seeds. Kokum is used in
the cuisines of Gujarat, Goa, and other coastal and southern Indian states. There
it is added to curries, especially fish curries, and to legume and vegetable dishes.
Its flavor pairs well with coconut, and kokum-flavored coconut milk is sold as a
refreshing drink in India; kokum sherbet is also popular in the hot southern
regions.
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 PREVIOUS SPREAD, FROM LEFT: la kama, licorice root sticks, lavender, lemon verbena, licorice
root, dried lemongrass slices (two forms), and fresh lemongrass

LA KAMA
La kama is a Moroccan spice blend that is a far simpler combination than the
more well-known ras el hanout. A typical version consists of black pepper,
ginger, turmeric, cinnamon, and nutmeg, but, as with many North African spice
blends, the ingredients can vary from cook to cook (or spice merchant to spice
merchant). Some blends also contain mace; others omit the cinnamon and add
cumin. La kama has a warm, very aromatic, peppery fragrance and a sweet-hot
taste. It is used in tagines made with lamb, chicken, or fish and in many stews
and soups, notably harira, traditionally served to break the Ramadan fast. La
kama can also be used as a rub for grilled lamb, chicken, or fish.

LAVENDER
BOTANICAL NAMES: Lavandula angustifolia, L. officinalis (English); L.
dentata (French)
FORMS: fresh and dried flowers and buds

Lavender, a member of the mint family, is one of most aromatic of all herbs.
There are many different species, but all are native to the Mediterranean; English
and French lavender are the types preferred for cooking. Lavender is mentioned
in the Bible, and it was used by the ancient Greeks and Romans. Today, France
is the major producer, and beautiful fields of lavender in bloom, with its fragrant
purple flowers, are a part of the landscape of southern France.