Natural based solubilizers

HIGH PERFORMANCE SOLUBILIZERS

FOR ALL SOLUBILIZATION NEEDS
 CRYSTAL Evonik offers a
­complete range of
CLEAR natural based solubi-

COSMETICS
lization solutions for
the incorporation of
different types of oils
into clear water-based TRENDS TOUCHED
formulations. • Naturality & Sustainability
• Versatility
• Multifunctionality

High performance solubilizers with proven sustainability features

ESSENTIAL OILS, PERFUME OILS

LIGHT/POLAR EMOLLIENTS FATTY NATURAL OILS
AND FLAVORS

TEGO® Solve
55 MB
Cost-efficient
LOW FOAMING

TEGO® Solve TEGO® Solve

90 MB 61 MB
Certified

TEGOSOFT®
PC 41 MB

symbio®solv plus MB
Highly efficient
FOAMING

RHEANCE® One
Next generation

INCREASING HYDROPHOBICITY
EVONIK PORTFOLIO OF
NATURAL BASED SOLUBILIZERS
AT A GLANCE
CERTIFIED/REGISTERED
RSPO
SOLVENT HLB COSMOS ECOCERT HALAL VEGAN3 CFDA
(MB1)

symbio®solv clear plus MB

Caprylyl/Capryl Glucoside;
Aqua; Sodium Cocoyl Glutamate;
~ 25% water ~ 16
Glyceryl Caprylate; Citric Acid;
Polyglyceryl-6 Oleate;
Sodium Surfactin

TEGO® Solve 55 MB
~ 25%
Polyglyceryl-3 Caprate/
Propylene ~ 15
Caprylate/Succinate;
Glycol
Propylene Glycol

TEGO® Solve 90 MB
Polyglyceryl-6 Caprylate; ~ 10% water ~ 15
Polyglyceryl-4 Caprate

pH dependent:
RHEANCE® One
~ 50% water 4 (pH 4.5) – 13 N/A 2
Glycolipids
(pH 6.1)

TEGOSOFT® PC 41 MB
~ 10% water ~ 14
Polyglyceryl-4 Caprate

TEGO® Solve 61 MB
Polyglyceryl-6 Caprylate;
Polyglyceryl-3 Cocoate; ~ 10% water ~ 11
Polyglyceryl-4 Caprate;
Polyglyceryl-6 Ricinoleate

1
MB = mass balance   2
N/A = not applicable   3
vegan according to the definition of the European Vegetarian Union
SUSTAINABILITY With natural based
solubilizers ­consumer brands
MEETS HIGH can significantly improve

PERFORMANCE
their sustainability ­profile
­without compromising
performance.

Solubilization tests to afford crystal-clear

solutions of 1.0% essential oils in water
At room temperature

TEGO® Solve 55 MB, TEGO® Solve 90 MB and symbio®solv clear

plus MB show high solubilizing power for the incorporation of
many essential oils into water.

AMOUNT OF SOLUBILIZER NEEDED FOR CLEAR SOLUTION [wt%]

20
18
16
14
12
10
8
6
4
2
0
LEMON OIL ROSEMARY OIL TEA TREE OIL LAVENDER OIL LEMONGRASS OIL

PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil TEGO® Solve 90 MB

TEGOSOFT® PC 41 MB symbio®solv clear plus MB
TEGO® Solve 55 MB
Solubilization tests to afford crystal-clear solutions of 0.5% emollient oil in water

At room temperature

TEGOSOFT® PC 41 MB is highly effective for the TEGO® Solve 61 MB outperforms the standard PEG-
­solubilization of light and relatively polar emollients. containing solubilizers for highly lipophilic emollients.

AMOUNT OF SOLUBILIZER NEEDED FOR CLEAR SOLUTION [wt%]

12

10

0
ISOHEXADECANE ISOAMYL ISOPROPYL C12-15 ALKYL CETEARYL DECYL ETHYLHEXYL CAPRYLIC/CAPRIC
COCOATE MYRISTATE BENZOATE ISONONANOATE COCOATE STEARATE TRIGLYCERIDE

PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil TEGOSOFT® PC 41 MB

Polysorbate 20 TEGO® Solve 61 MB

Solubilization tests to afford crystal-clear solutions of 0.5% natural oil in water

At room temperature; max. 12% solubilizer tested

TEGO® Solve 61 MB outperforms the standard solubilizer

PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil for natural oils.

AMOUNT OF SOLUBILIZER NEEDED FOR CLEAR SOLUTION [wt%]

14
12
10
8
6
4
2
0
AVOCADO OIL1 ARGAN OIL OLIVE OIL SUNFLOWER OIL ALMOND OIL2 JOJOBA OIL FRAGRANCE
WHITE LILY2

PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil 1 Not crystal-clear with PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil
TEGOSOFT® PC 41 MB 2 Contains approx. 90 % soybean oil
TEGO® Solve 61 MB
Moisturizing benefits Viscosity effects
In vivo Corneometer test results In surfactant-based formulations

TEGO® Solve 61 MB acts as a humectant and provides mois- The polyglycerol ester-based solubilizers show significantly
turization as shown in an in vivo short-term moisturization lower viscosity reduction in surfactant-based formulations
test (Corneometer) out of a body lotion. than PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil, enabling reduced
thickener levels.

SKIN HYDRATION IMPROVEMENT (∆CU VALUES) AFTER 2 H REL. BROOKFIELD VISCOSITY [mPa s]
TO CONTROL [%]
12000
25
10000
20 8000

15 6000

4000
10
2000
5
0

CHASSIS

RHEANCE® One

clear plus MB

TEGO® Solve
TEGO® Solve

TEGO® Solve

TEGOSOFT®

Hydrogenated
0

symbio®solv

PC 41 MB

Castor Oil
CONTROL VEHICLE 3% TEGO® 5% TEGO®

55 MB

PEG-40
90 MB

61 MB
UNTREATED SKIN Solve 61 MB Solve 61 MB

Test area: 5 cm2 (inner forearm);

20 µg test formulation (O/W body lotion);
9% Sodium Laureth Sulfate, 3% Cocamidopropyl Betaine,
14 test persons
0.2% Polyquaternium-10, 0.5% NaCl, 2.5% PEG-18 Glyceryl
Oleate/Cocoate; pH 5.5

SITA foam measurement

0.5% a.m. in water (10 °dH) at 30 °C,
FOAM VOLUME [ml]
pH 6, 1500 rpm
1200

1000

800 symbio®solv clear plus MB contributes to the foaming

600 performance of the final product. Hence, the total
400 ­surfactant amount may be reduced, improving the
200 mildness of the formula.
0
10 20 30 40 50 60 70 80 90 100
TEGO® Solve 55 MB, TEGO® Solve 90 MB and TEGO®
FOAMING INTERVALS [sec]
Solve 61 MB are low foaming in water, thus enabling fast
PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil TEGO® Solve 55 MB and easy processing.
TEGOSOFT® PC 41 MB TEGO® Solve 90 MB
TEGO® Solve 61 MB symbio®solv clear plus MB
 EFFICIENT Makeup removal test results on PMMA plates –
3% a.m. surfactant or solubilizer in water

AND The PEG-free solubilizers efficiently remove makeup in a very

gentle way. They effectively reduce the surface tension of water and

GENTLE show superior pigment-wetting properties.

MAKEUP
Red Blood Cell (RBC) tests showed that all five ­products are
basically non-irritant.

REMOVAL

MAKEUP REMOVAL [%] (LONG-LASTING MAKEUP (L’ORÉAL))

100

80

60

40

20

0
WATER PEG-40 POLYSORBATE TEGO® Capryl/ TEGO® Solve 55/ symbio®solv TEGOSOFT® PC PEG-6
HYDROGENATED 20 Solve Capramidopropyl 90 MB clear plus MB 41 MB CAPRYLIC/
CASTOR OIL 61 MB Betaine CAPRIC
GLYCERIDE

GET INSPIRED
Micellar water for makeup removal PROCESSING
BK 484/2 Blend ingredients in the given order.

REMARKS
PHASE INGREDIENTS W/W%
pH = 5.0
TEGO® Solve 61 MB (Polyglyceryl-6 Caprylate; 1.00
Polyglyceryl-6 Ricinoleate)
In vitro mildness test result (RBC):
TEGO® Betain 810 (Capryl/Capramidopropyl Betaine) 1.30
basically non-irritant
TEGO® Solve 90 MB (Polyglyceryl-4 Caprate; 1.00
Polyglyceryl-6 Caprate)
Perfume Pink Grapefruit (IFF Fragrance GmbH) 0.05
TEXTURE AND SENSORY
• Clear, water-thin solution.
Water ad 100.00
• 3-in-1: Cleanses, removes makeup,
TEGO® Natural Betaine (Betaine) 2.00
soothes.
Glycerin 1.00
• Removes even waterproof eye make-
z Preservative q.s.
up. Use with a cotton pad. No rinsing
required.
 Proven sustainability features combined
Broad application profile
with high performance – suitable even
supportive of current market trends
for natural concepts

Low influence on viscosity

of surfactant formulations

BENEFITS
Easy to handle and cold
compared to PEG-contain-
processable (no gel phase)
ing benchmarks reduces
thickener levels

Very low impact on odor and color of formulations Gentle cleansing and makeup-removing properties

PROPERTIES
• Based 100% on renewable raw materials
• PEG-free
• Low-viscosity liquids
• Colorless to slightly yellow
• Effectively reduces the surface tension of water
• Recommended use level: 1 – 25%

This information and any recommendations, technical or otherwise, are presented in good faith Evonik Nutrition & Care GmbH
and believed to be correct as of the date prepared. Recipients of this information and recom- Care Solutions
mendations must make their own determination as to its suitability for their purposes. In no
event shall Evonik Nutrition & Care GmbH assume liability for damages or losses of any kind Goldschmidtstraße 100,
or nature that result from the use of or reliance upon this information and recommendations. 45127 Essen, Germany
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kind, whether express or implied, as to the accuracy, completeness, non-infringement, mer-
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aware of such purpose) with respect to any information and recommendations provided. Refer- Fax +49 201 173-712546
ence to any trade names used by other companies is neither a recommendation nor an endorse-
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or recommendations at any time, without prior or subsequent notice. April 2019