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Relative Color Pickup of Three Different Knits and Predictive Dyeing Recipe
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 SSRG International Journal of Polymer and Textile Engineering (SSRG-IJPTE) – Volume 6 Issue 3 – Sep - Dec 2019

Relative Color Pickup of Three Different Knits

and Predictive Dyeing Recipe Formulation
Md Rashedul Islam#1, Usha Chowdhary*2
#
Graduate student & *Professor, Fashion, Interior Design & Merchandising
Central Michigan University, USA

Abstract fleece/jersey t-shirts or sweat shirts could have cuffs

and collars made from rib knit. In such cases,
The study investigated relative color consumer expects uniform dyeing. Therefore,
exhaustion of cotton for three different knitted manufacturer needs processes in place that can create
structures (single jersey, rib, and fleece) in the same uniformity of dyeing between and among various
dyebath. The knitted structures were produced from the constructions.
yarn of same size. Reactive dyes with three fundamental
colors such as red, yellow, and blue were used in the Textile dyeing consists of several stages. For
dyeing process simultaneously based on industrial reactive dyeing, they include such as scouring and
practice. After dyeing all the knitted structures in the bleaching, neutralizing wash, dyeing, and removing
same bath, CIELAB values were obtained from all of unfixed colors through neutralization wash and soaping
them and statically analyzed by ANOVA. However, the [4]. In each stage, the water bath is discharged, and
purpose was to see if there was any difference in color fresh water is taken. This discharged water contains
pick-up for different fabric structures. The second part various kinds of hazardous chemicals, which can be
of the study comprised of rib and fleece dyeing with the harmful to the environment. Most of the textile
adjusted recipe based on CIELAB values. In this case, industries established ETP (effluent treatment plant)
single jersey was considered as the target near to the dyeing facilities for the purification of
swatch. Results revealed that adjusted recipe worked dyeing discharge and the process is very expensive [5].
well for optimizing the process to get uniform color for The amount of reprocessing is a vital problem for the
all three types of knits. Developed adjustment technique textile dyeing industry [6]. Whenever there is a slight
can be used advantageously by the professionals from deviation in the shade, the manufacturer re-dyes the
industry as well as academia. fabric to match with the standard swatch. Each re-
dyeing process is accounted for 6 to 8 hours extra time,
Keywords - Dyeing, Color Pickup, Knits, water, color and chemicals, and energy loss, which is
Spectrophotometer, Fiber Content not desirable for the manufacturers. The reported study
provides a framework for the manufacturer that might
reduce the amount of reprocessing.
I. INTRODUCTION

Colors make the world attractive and pollute it with The knitted fabrics influx in casual apparel
worldwide demonstrated through the proceeding
pleasing venom [1]. Colors have been applied to
information compelled the researchers to focus on
improve the appearance of the surface since the
knitted materials. The global market of knitted products
prehistoric time. Historical records show that humans
extracted color from vegetables, fruits, flowers, animals was estimated $77.7 billion in 2017, and the Asian
and insects to dye the objects dating back to 3500 BC region was the contributor for 68.8% of the global knit
market [7]. Over the years, the growing knit apparel
[1]. Textiles industry is one of the biggest users of dyes
industry is replacing woven products continually [8].
for coloring the fabrics. However, the textile dyeing
On the other hand, knit production facilities do not
process is not as easy as it sounds and requires a lot of
require high investments as it is required for the woven
time and effort to create the uniform shade [2].
Uniformity in the shade is important for the textile industry. Low manpower, low energy consumption, and
product. Garments are made of different fabric automation have brought revolutionary changes in the
knit industry. In recent years, the reducing costs of knit
constructions (knitted or woven and their variations)
products has given it a comparative advantage over
that absorb dye differentially [3]. Several garments use
woven products without losing their quality [7]
both knitted and woven materials together. Woven
garments could have knitted cuffs or collars. Or,

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 SSRG International Journal of Polymer and Textile Engineering (SSRG-IJPTE) – Volume 6 Issue 3 – Sep - Dec 2019

The knitted structures were made of cotton problem, A.H. Munsell underlined “music is equipped
was used for the study because they are used most with a system by which it defines as each sound terms
widely globally. Statista also revealed that the global of its pitch, intensity, and duration” and in the same
cotton business increased from the last 30 years [9]. way he pointed out “color should be supplied with an
The apparel products made of cotton are comfortable to appropriate system based on the hue, value, and
human skin and famous for its moisture absorption Chroma” [11]. According to Munsell color system,
capacity. There are several dyestuffs to color cotton color was expressed by three variables: a) Hue; to
fabrics. Reactive dyes are the most common dyestuff express the saturation level of colors. b) Value; to
used for cotton dyeing because it renders an excellent express whiteness or darkness. c) Chroma; it expresses
colorfastness by creating covalent bonds with color [4]. depth of the color [16].
Several textile industries of Bangladesh use reactive
dyes in the coloration process. The revenue generated
by U.S. dye market from 2014 to 2018 is the highest in
history [10].

The study of relative color exhaustion is

essential from the viewpoint of the manufacturer
because it provides a basic framework for shade
correction which can reduce the amount of
reprocessing, water and chemical consumption, and
energy loss. The twofold purpose of the study was as
follows. (1) The first part of the study compared
relative color exhaustion of three different knitted
structures of cotton (single jersey, rib, and fleece). The
color exhaustion was measured on the basis CIELAB
value after dyeing each specimen. (2) The second part Fig 1: Munsell Color system [16].
of the study included rib and fleece dyeing with the
adjusted recipes from the target swatch, and Measurement of color difference
formulation of the best predictive recipe for rib and CIELAB color space system is the most
fleece by shade analysis. popular and widely used by most of the textile dyeing
industries, where CIE stands for International
II. LITERATURE REVIEW Commission on Illumination. CIELAB color
measurement system has three color coordinates; L*
Color theory and Munsell color system (same as “Value” in Munsell system) indicates
Since prehistoric time, scientists and artists lightness or darkness of the shade, a* indicates the color
investigated the nature of colors and developed many tone toward red or green, b* indicates the color tone
theories [11]-[13]. The purpose of these theories was toward yellow and blue [17]. For a colored specimen
either to produce them or express them with a set of with L*2, a*2, b*2 values and standard swatch with L*1,
attributes. The Young-Helmholtz trichromatic color a*1, b*1 values, the color difference Δ E is expressed by
theory revealed that all the color can be produced by the the following equation [18].
combination of red, green, and blue colors [14] which is
completely true for additive color theory of light
mixture. All the colors can be produced digitally after ΔE=√
combing red, green, and blue color light sources with
specific portions. However, textile industry does not Where L*2 ~ L*1, a*2 ~ a*1, and
follow this color model, since it requires to color the b*2 ~ b*1
product physically. Textile industries use RYB color
model for dyeing and printing, where it is possible to Reactive dyeing of cotton
produce all the shade physically by creating mixtures of In early 1900s, Ratte and Stephen developed a
red, yellow, and blue colors at different proportions dyeing process to dye cellulosic fibers with reactive
[15]. dyes by creating covalent bond in their structures under
alkaline condition [4]. See following reaction; Cell-OH
Even though the color theory was utilized by represents cellulose, and Dye-Cl represents reactive
many industries that time, it startled the manufacturers dye.
with color intensity, whiteness or darkness in the shade,
and saturation level with other colors. To solve this Cell-OH + OH- → Cell-O- + H2O

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 SSRG International Journal of Polymer and Textile Engineering (SSRG-IJPTE) – Volume 6 Issue 3 – Sep - Dec 2019

Cell-O- + Dye-Cl → Cell-O-Dye + Cl- Nayem, and Azim (2014) approached to dye cotton and
silk with natural curcumin in the presence of different
Ratte and Stephen started dyeing at neutral pH mordanting chemicals. They suggested that exhaustion
= 7. The salt is added in the dye bath to promote initial curcumin significantly relies on mordanting
exhaustion of dyes into the fiber. During this step, dyes performance [28]. Shimo and Smriti (2015) examined
do not react with cellulose and it facilitates fiber to fiber the relative color strength and color coordinates based
dye migration. Then the alkali is added in the dye bath on fabric GSM and the amount of dye concentration.
to promote the reaction between fiber and dyes [4]. They asserted that color strength and color coordinates
increased with the colorant concentration and GSM of
Relative color pickup the same knit structure [29]. Acharya et al., (2014)
introduced trimethyl-ammonium chloride (CHPTAC)
Sadeghi-Kiakhani and Safapour (2015) cationizer in salt-free reactive dyeing of cotton and
emphasized the salt-free dyeing of cotton fabric. They demonstrated that there is a pivotal effect of CHPTAC
used chitosan-poly (propylene imine) dendrimer hybrid concentration in the percent of color exhaustion [30].
(CS-PPI) instead of traditional textile dyeing salts. The Hasan et al., (2015) revealed that the cotton and silk
study suggested that the amount of CS-PPI cationizing fabric dyed with Lawsone extracted from henna leaves
agent affects positively on dye exhaustion percentage provides better color coordinates and depth in the shade
[19]. Khatri et al., (2012) reported that the color depending on the used mordant [31]. Sufian et al.,
exhaustion of cellulosic fiber relies on the dye diffusion (2016) compared conventional Remazol reactive dye
into the fiber polymer system and the degree of and Avitera reactive dye for better color yielding. They
diffusion depends on the amount of electrolyte found the quality of dyes greatly affected color
concentration and temperature of the dye bath [20]. exhaustion and levelness [32]. Kamruzzaman et al.,
Zhang et al., (2015) examined that the cotton fabric (2016) have shown that the relative color exhaustion
dyed with Hemicyanine fluorescent dye in presence of depends on the optimum use of soda ash and sodium
PMA (poly-maleic acid) crosslinking agent possessed hydroxide in the reactive dyeing process [33].
an undeniable fluorescence effect. However, they found
that the amount of PMA crosslinking agent also Most of the previous studies suggested that the
contributed to wrinkle resistance property [21]. Fu et investigation regarding relative color exhaustion has
al., proclaimed that dyeing in a nonaqueous medium in been done based on pretreatment, dyeing auxiliaries,
the D5-suspension system significantly improves color dyeing condition, dyes type, and process. Table I
pickup compared to the traditional reactive dyeing provides summary of scholarly literature on relative
process. Additionally, this process minimizes the risk of color exhaustion regarding pretreatment, additives,
dye-hydrolysis [22]. Tang et al., (2014) stressed that the conditions, dyes and processes. However, the authors
creation of polymer layer on the knit fabric surface by inferred that there is a gap in the study of color
applying dye attracting nanoparticles enhances color exhaustion and knit structures. From the findings of
exhaustion [23]. Ali et al., (2015) informed that the Shimo and Smriti (2015) regarding GSM (grams per
application of cationic starch (Q-TAC) in the reactive square meter) and color strength [29] and literature
dyeing process instead of salt augments the dye review the author developed the following hypothesis.
exhaustion [24].
Hypothesis 1: Color exhaustion depends on the
Zhao, Feng, and Wang (2014) stated that the type of knit structure in the same dye bath
color exhaustion of cellulase enzyme treated flux fabric
improves compared to untreated fabric. Dyeing bath TABLE I
temperature, temp and PH increases color exhaustion to Previous scholarly works on relative color exhaustion
a certain extent [25]. Bhuiyan et al., (2017) investigated
the dyeing properties of jute fiber with natural dye Covered
henna after carrying out the treatment by chitosan Study Description
topics
solution and assessed that chitosan treated fabric
appeared darker in shade compared to untreated fabric
Pre-mordanting
[26]. Bouzidi et al., (2016) endeavored to dye wool
fabric with a natural colorant extracted from Relative
Scouring and
Limoniastrum monopetalum stems. They found that color Pretreatment
bleaching
color exhaustion and evenness depend on the exhaustion
optimization of the color extraction process from the Enzymatic treatment
natural source. Besides that, different types of mordants
contribute to the different depth of shades [27]. Hasan,

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Cationization TABLE II
Fabric Specification
Salt
Yarn GSM
Type Composition
Soda Count Mean SD
Dyeing SJ 30/S 100% BCI Cotton 153.829 2.835
auxiliaries Rib 30/S 100% BCI Cotton 445.782 11.299
Mordants
Fleece 30/S 100% BCI Cotton 293.882 3.792
other auxiliaries
Spectrophotometer
pH
The color difference of the dyed specimens
Dyeing was measured by using CM-2500d spectrophotometer,
Temperature which is a handheld portable instrument [39]-[42]. The
condition
researchers used CIELAB color measurement system to
Time estimate the color difference among different shades.

Organic Chemicals
Dyes
Inorganic Traditionally fabrics are collected in „grey
form‟ directly from the manufacturer, which means the
Plasma treatment fabrics have not been subjected to any kind of wet and
chemical treatment previously. The outer layer of
Innovative cotton contains cuticle or hydrophobic layer, so it is
Process Supercritical fluid necessary to remove that hydrophobic layer from the
treatment fabric surface to make it dyeable. The process is called
scouring. On the other hand, cotton has an inherent
natural color that makes it slightly yellowish. This
III. MATERIALS inherent color creates problems in light shade dyeing
process since it contributes to the final appearance of
The investigation compared color exhaustion the shade. Therefore, it is a good practice to remove the
of three different knit constructions (single jersey, rib, natural color from the surface of cotton for the
and fleece) for cotton dyeing. Reactive dye was chosen standardization of dyeing process. The treatment for
for the study as it is the most widely used dyestuff in removal of the natural color of cotton is called
textile dyeing, produces even shades with excellent bleaching and it whitens the fabric surface. The
color fastness, and the process is less complex [4]. following table III contains a list of chemicals that were
Fabric used for the experiments. The chemicals chosen for the
Fabrics were purchased from one of the study was acquired from the local market. Most of the
leading knit product exporters of Bangladesh. To add textile industries use Hydrogen Peroxide (50%) as
reliability and validity in experimentation results, the bleaching chemical for cotton [43]. However, this
fabrics were produced by using threads of the same chemical was not available in the local market since it
yarn size and fiber content. The manufacturer used causes skin burn and lung cancer [44]. CLOROX was
„indirect yarn numbering system‟ or „English cotton used instead of Caustic Soda and Hydrogen Peroxide,
count‟ to express the yarn size which refers to the and available in the local market. CLOROX contains
number of hanks in one pound of cotton [34]. All knit both Caustic Soda and Sodium Hypochlorite (instead of
types were made from 100% BCI cotton, where BCI Hydrogen Peroxide) for combined scouring and
stands for „Better Cotton Initiative‟, and it also means bleaching purpose [45]. The dyeing process requires
that the cotton cultivation was carried out without any salt to promote initial exhaustion, color, and soda ash to
hazardous chemicals [35]-[36]. Table II below lists the facilitate reaction between dyes and fiber. Finally,
details about fabrication [37], yarn size [34], vinegar was used for neutralization purpose.
composition, and fabric weight [38] represented as
GSM.

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Table III
List of Chemicals

Process Commercial Name Composition Function

Caustic Soda To remove oil, and wax from the fabric.
Scouring and
CLOROX Sodium To remove the natural color and whiten the
Bleaching
Hypochlorite fabric.
Sodium To create positive charges around the fabric
Great Value Salt
Chloride surface and promote initial exhaustion.
Sodium To create covalent bonds between dyes and
Soda Ash
Carbonate cotton.
Dyeing DYLON Tulip Red Reactive Dye To color the fabric.
DYLON Sunflower
Reactive Dye To color the fabric.
Yellow
DYLON Blue Jeans Reactive Dye To color the fabric.
Neutralizer Acetic Acid To neutralize the alkaline PH
of specimens, single jersey specimens were numbered
IV. METHODS as S1, rib specimens were numbered as R1, R2, R3, R4;
and fleece specimens were numbered as F1, F2, F3, F4.
The investigation was conducted in six Step two needs all the specimens for combined scouring
different steps: (1) Sampling and recipe formulation, (2) and bleaching. Step three required sample space one,
combined scouring and bleaching, (3) dyeing, (4) which included S1, R1, F1. Sample space two consisted
measurement of color difference ( E), (5) dyeing with of 6 different groups of specimens;
the revised recipe, and (6) final assessment.
R2 – Rib dyeing with main recipe + E
Sampling and recipe formulation (Step 1) R3 – Rib dyeing with main recipe + 0.8 E
R4 – Rib dyeing with main recipe + 1.2 E
The combination of red, yellow, and blue F2 – Fleece dyeing with main recipe + E
colors has been employed for the dyeing recipe since F3 – Fleece dyeing with main recipe + 0.8 E
these colors are widely used by the industries as F4 – Fleece dyeing with main recipe + 1.2 E
primary sources of all colors. The dyeing was carried
out in the same dye bath which contained three However, each specimen was cut into 8” X 8”
different knit structures such as single jersey, rib, and dimension and five different readings were taken from
fleece specimens (Step 3). For the better understanding every specimen for CIELAB values. Though scouring
and minimizing forthcoming confusion, authors named and bleaching are two different processes, authors have
this sample space as „sample space one‟. combined both for the investigation because many
industries are doing so for the reduction in water and
Step five of the methodology consisted of energy consumption.
three activities: (1) to dye the fiber with main recipe + Combined Scouring and Bleaching (Step 2)
E, (2) to dye the fiber with main recipe + 0.8 E, and At first, all the specimen weights were
(3) to dye the fiber with main recipe + 1.2 E. measured, and recipe calculation was done in
Furthermore, rib and fleece construction had been accordance with table IV. The required amount of water
selected for these upper mentioned activities excluding was added and then the fabric specimens were
single jersey construction, because authors regarded the immersed in the solution. The temperature was raised to
shade of single jersey as target swatch. In industrial 60°C and CLOROX solution was added in the bath.
practice, the body fabric or single jersey is dyed in a The temperature was again raised to 98°C and
huge amount with a small amount of rib and fleece, as maintained for 60 min. The specimens were steered
rib and fleece are only used for collars, cuffs, and continuously in the bleaching solution for better
design parts of the garment products. So, it is performance. After the completion of 60 min, the
reasonable to follow the higher quantity as the target bleaching solution was dropped, and new hot water was
swatch. For the better understanding and minimizing poured for a hot wash. The hot wash cleaned the
forthcoming confusion, authors named this sample specimens and reduced the alkalinity of bleaching
space as „sample space two‟. The study required a total action. In the end, acetic acid was added in the water to
of 9 specimens considering sample space one + sample neutralize the specimens.
space two. For the identification and allocation purpose

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TABLE IV colors can be produced by using these three primary

Recipe for combined scouring and bleaching colors for a textile product [46].

Chemicals TABLE V
Recipe for dyeing (Step 3)
CLOROX 10 g/l
Acetic acid 2 g/l Chemicals
Process parameters Salt 100 g/l
Time 60 min Red 3% owf*
Temperature 98° C Yellow 3% owf*
M: L 1:20 Blue 3% owf*
Soda Ash 20 g/l
Dyeing (Step 3)
Acid 1 g/l
The bleached specimens were then immersed Process parameters
in dyeing water and the required amount of salt was
added. The temperature was raised to 60°C and the Time 60 min
color solution was dosed slowly by taking time. The Temperature 65° C
slow addition of color ensured uniform distribution. P H
9 to 10
The temperature was again raised to 65°C and the
required amount of soda ash was dosed slowly. After M: L 1:20
dosing, 65°C temperature is maintained continuously *owf = on the weight of fabric.
for 60 min. Then the dyeing solution was dropped, and
specimens were neutralized (Table V). Dyeing with the revised recipe (Step 5)

Measurement of color difference (Step 4) The measured E for rib and fleece were then
added with the main recipe for step five. Broadbent
The color differences E) were measured by (2001) informed that the reactive dye is prone to
comparing CIELAB values of single jersey, rib, and hydrolyze by reacting with water molecules, this causes
fleece such as S1 vs R1, R1 vs F1, and F1 vs S1 (This waste of dyes [4]. Considering hydrolysis effect of
was the first part of the investigation). The point to be reactive dyes, authors decide to add two more activities
noted, the readings of CIELAB values were taken only for step five such as main recipe + 0.8 E, and main
from the face side of samples. However, this study used recipe + 1.2 E (Table VI). All the activities of step
CIELAB color system using RYB model, since all the five were explained in step 1 (Sampling and recipe
formulation).
TABLE VI
Dyeing with adjusted recipes (Step 5)

Chemicals Main Recipe + ΔE Main Recipe + 0.8ΔE Main Recipe + 1.2ΔE

Salt 100 g/l 100 g/l 100 g/l
Red 3% + ΔE 3% + 0.8ΔE 3% + 1.2ΔE
Yellow 3% + ΔE 3% + 0.8ΔE 3% + 1.2ΔE
Blue 3% + ΔE 3% + 0.8ΔE 3% + 1.2ΔE
Soda Ash 20 g/l 20 g/l 20 g/l
Acid 1 g/l 1 g/l 1 g/l
Process Main Recipe + ΔE Main Recipe + 0.8ΔE Main Recipe + 1.2ΔE
Time 60 min 60 min 60 min
Temperature 65° C 65° C 65° C
PH 9 to 10 9 to 10 9 to 10
M: L 1:20 1:20 1:20
Final assessment (Step 6)

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TABLE VII V. RESULT AND DISCUSSION

Measurement of color difference
After dyeing the fabrics (single jersey, rib, and fleece)
Specimen ΔE
in the same bath, five different readings of L*, a*, b*
S1 vs R2 were taken from each sample by using a
Rib S1 vs R3 spectrophotometer. The mean and standard deviation
S1 vs R4 were calculated (Table VIII). In later, authors used
S1 vs F2 these mean values to calculate the color difference (ΔE)
Fleece S1 vs F3 between shades (Table IX). The value of ΔE (0 to 1
inclusive) indicates that the shade difference is not
S1 vs F4
visible to human eyes. On the other hand, if the value of
ΔE is greater than 1, the shade difference is visible at a
The rib (R2, R3, R4) and fleece (F2, F3, F4) glance [47]. Nowadays, most of the textile industries
specimens which were dyed using adjusted recipes at consider ΔE = 1 as the highest limit of shade deviation.
step five are subjected to final assessment with the
target single jersey swatch in this step. This decision Table IX compared the color difference (ΔE)
was consistent with the industrial practice in among single jersey, rib, and fleece by choosing two of
Bangladesh. The assessment revealed the best them each time. ΔE is calculated by the pre-mentioned
predictive recipe for rib and fleece dyeing which will equation in the literature review section [18], and six
work well to get uniform color for all three types of comments were developed by authors based on
knits. Step six includes E comparison of the shades CIELAB color system [17] and the visibility scale [47].
listed on the table VII. Comment 1, 3, 4, and 6 implies that rib has picked up
the highest amount of color in the dyeing process
compared to single jersey and fleece. On the other
hand, comment 2, and 5 indicates that fleece absorbed
less amount of color than single jersey.

TABLE VIII
CIELAB values of knits (dyed in the same bath at step 3)

Single Jersey L a b Mean SD

56.01 20.40 1.83 L 55.88 L 0.341
56.42 20.15 1.89 a 20.49 a 0.223
55.61 20.68 2.46 b 2.22 b 0.326
55.77 20.55 2.44
55.61 20.68 2.46
Rib L a b Mean SD
54.72 20.90 3.98 L 54.01 L 0.553
54.31 21.34 3.35 a 21.24 a 0.324
53.40 20.89 3.36 b 3.56 b 0.287
54.10 21.57 3.36
53.51 21.49 3.73
Fleece L a b Mean SD
56.83 20.85 2.84 L 56.55 L 0.480
56.95 21.09 3.49 a 20.84 a 0.602
56.03 21.23 2.55 b 2.83 b 0.387
56.03 21.23 2.55
56.93 19.80 2.74

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Table IX
CIE LAB: Measurement of color difference (ΔE)
Comparison ΔL ΔL2 Δa Δa2 Δb Δb2 ΔE
SJ vs Rib 1.88 3.52 -0.75 0.56 -1.34 1.80 2.42
SJ vs Fleece -0.67 0.45 -0.35 0.12 -0.62 0.38 0.98
Comment 1 Single jersey is lighter than rib, and shade difference is visible at a glance.
Single jersey is darker than fleece, and shade difference is not visible to
Comment 2 human eyes.
Rib vs SJ -1.88 3.52 0.75 0.56 1.34 1.80 2.42
Rib vs Fleece -2.55 6.48 0.40 0.16 0.72 0.52 2.68
Comment 3 Rib is darker than single jersey, and shade difference is visible at a glance.
Comment 4 Rib is darker than fleece, and shade difference is visible at a glance.
Fleece vs SJ 0.67 0.45 0.35 0.12 0.62 0.38 0.98
Fleece bs Rib 2.55 6.48 -0.40 0.16 -0.72 0.52 2.68
Fleece is lighter than single jersey, and shade difference is not visible to
Comment 5 human eyes.
Comment 6 Fleece is lighter than rib, and shade difference is visible at a glance.
were varied significantly for the knitted structures as
discussed earlier. However, from t-test (at 95%
Hypothesis Testing confidence level) analysis, authors uncovered that the
higher GSM did not always pickup more color
Hypothesis 1: Color exhaustion depends on the type of compared to lower GSM. The statistical analysis
knit structure in the same dye bath. stressed that µL (Single Jersey) > µL (Rib), µL (Fleece)
> µL (Rib), and µL (Single Jersey) >/ µL (Fleece).
Table VIII shows that though single jersey, Figure 2 showed that even though GSM was higher for
rib, and fleece are made of cotton, they have fleece (293.882), it was lighter than single jersey
significantly different L*, a*, b* values in the dyed (153.829).
samples. Results from One-Way Analysis of Variance
revealed that L* values of three types of knits differed
significantly (F2, 12 = 39.837, p<.000). Single Jersey
(55.88) was lighter than rib knit (54.01) but darker than
the fleece (56.55) tested for the investigation.
Differences were also significant for a* values (F2, 12 =
4.085, p<.044). Rib (21.24) and fleece (20.84) were
more reddish than the single jersey (20.49). Results
from the comparison of b* values also demonstrated
significant difference by knit construction (F2,
12=19.893, p<.000). Both rib (3.56) and fleece (2.83)
were yellower than the single jersey knit (2.22).
Significant differences in L*, a*, b* values as measured
by spectrophotometer and tested by ANOVA
demonstrated that the color exhaustion relies on the knit
structures in the same dye bath. Hypothesis I was Fig 2: GSM vs the amount of dye intake.
accepted. Previous literature did not report any
information on the proposed relationship. Recipe development for step five (from Table X, and
Table XI)
The second part of the study was started from
Next, One-Way Analysis of Variance also
step five. It included shade correction activities where
disclosed that GSM of the three different knits differed
CIELAB value of single jersey was considered the
significantly (F2, 12 = 2130.892, p<0.000). Single
target shade for other two knit structures. The shade
jersey had the lowest mean GSM (153.829), rib had the
difference percentage was calculated by the following
highest mean GSM (445.782), and fleece was in the
equation. Table X represents shade difference among
middle (293.882). Besides that, the CIELAB values

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 SSRG International Journal of Polymer and Textile Engineering (SSRG-IJPTE) – Volume 6 Issue 3 – Sep - Dec 2019

three different knits and was obtained from Rib is 3.64 Reddish
spectrophotometer. Fleece is 1.70 Reddish
Fabric % Comment on Δb
Shade difference
Rib is 60.47 Yellowish
(%)
Fleece is 27.89 Yellowish
TABLE X
Comments on rib and fleece shade with respect to single The obtained shade difference between the
jersey target and specimens were then employed in the recipe
correction Table XI, and the dyeing recipe was adjusted
Fabric % Comment on ΔL by three pre-mentioned activities of step five; main
Rib is 3.36 Darker recipe + ΔE, main recipe + 0.8 ΔE, and main recipe +
1.2 ΔE at table XII. The rib and fleece specimens were
Fleece is 1.20 Lighter
dyed with these recipes for the second part of the study.
Fabric % Comment on Δa

TABLE XI
Recipe correction for rib and fleece (from table X)
Color Main recipe ΔE (for rib)
= Main recipe - 3.36 % of main recipe - 3.64 % of main recipe
Red = 3 - 0.101 - 0.109
= 3 - 0.21
= Main recipe - 3.36 % of main recipe - 60.47 % of main recipe
Yellow = 3 - 0.101 - 1.814
= 3 - 1.915
= Main recipe - 3.36 % of main recipe - 0% of main recipe
Blue = 3 - 0.101 - 0
= 3 0.101
Color Main recipe ΔE (for fleece)
= Main recipe + 1.20 % of main recipe - 1.70 % of main recipe
Red = 3 + 0.036 - 0.051
= 3 - 0.015
= Main recipe + 1.20 % of main recipe - 27.89 % of main recipe
Yellow = 3 + 0.036 - 0.837
= 3 - 0.801
= Main recipe + 1.20 % of main recipe - 0% of main recipe
Blue = 3 - 0.036 - 0
= 3 + 0.036

Table XII
Adjusted recipes for rib and fleece (from table XI)
Rib Main Recipe ΔE Main recipe + ΔE Main recipe + 0.8ΔE Main recipe + 1.2ΔE
Red (%) 3.000 -0.210 2.790 2.832 2.748
Yellow (%) 3.000 -1.915 1.085 1.468 0.702
Blue (%) 3.000 -0.101 2.899 2.919 2.879
Fleece Main Recipe ΔE Main recipe + ΔE Main recipe + 0.8ΔE Main recipe + 1.2ΔE
Red (%) 3.000 -0.015 2.985 2.988 2.982
Yellow (%) 3.000 -0.801 2.199 2.359 2.039
Blue (%) 3.000 0.036 3.036 3.029 3.043

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Final Assessment deviation were calculated. In later, the mean values

Table XIII presented CIELAB values of rib were used to compare the color difference between
dyed with adjusted recipes. The Mean and standard target (single jersey) and rib (Table XIV).
TABLE XIII
CIELAB values of rib (dyed with adjusted recipe)

Main Recipe + ΔE L a b Mean SD

57.67 18.07 2.31 L 58.134 L 0.368
58.15 18.30 2.19 a 17.968 a 0.268
57.93 18.07 2.12 b 2.226 b 0.126
58.27 17.62 2.40
58.65 17.78 2.11
Main Recipe + 0.8ΔE L a b Mean SD
57.01 20.33 2.26 L 56.772 L 0.527
56.05 20.24 2.23 a 20.678 a 0.548
57.02 21.60 2.49 b 2.294 b 0.117
56.42 20.49 2.19
57.36 20.73 2.30
Main Recipe + 1.2ΔE L a b Mean SD
59.49 17.35 1.87 L 58.950 L 0.673
59.39 16.28 2.22 a 16.966 a 0.467
58.28 16.72 1.87 b 2.048 b 0.197
58.15 17.09 2.29
59.44 17.39 1.99

TABLE XIV
Measurement of color difference (single jersey vs rib dyed with adjusted recipe)

Single Jersey VS Rib (Main ΔL ΔL2 Δa Δa2 Δb Δb2 ΔE

Recipe + ΔE) -2.250 5.063 2.524 6.371 -0.010 0.000 3.381
2
Single Jersey VS Rib (Main ΔL ΔL Δa Δa2 Δb Δb2 ΔE
Recipe + 0.8ΔE) -0.888 0.789 -0.186 0.035 -0.078 0.006 0.911
Single Jersey VS Rib (Main ΔL ΔL2 Δa Δa2 Δb Δb2 ΔE
Recipe + 1.2ΔE) -3.066 9.400 3.526 12.433 0.168 0.028 4.676
Main
significantly (F2, 12 = 20.9697, p<0.001) with each
Recipe
other. Rib [dyed with main recipe + ΔE] (58.134) was
+ΔE
6 lighter than rib [dyed with main recipe + 0.8ΔE]
4 (56.772) but darker than rib [dyed with main recipe +
2 1.2ΔE] (58.950) in the final assessment. The
Main 0 Main differences were also significant for a* value (F2, 12 =
Recipe Recipe + 93.7242, p<0.000) where rib [dyed with main recipe +
+1.2 ΔE 0.8ΔE 0.8ΔE] (20.678) was more reddish than rib [dyed with
main recipe + ΔE] (17.968) and rib [dyed with main
recipe+ 1.2ΔE] (16.966). The b* values demonstrated
no significant difference (F2, 12= 3.5402, p< 0.0619
Fig 3: Color different between single jersey and rib (dyed where rib [dyed with main recipe + 0.8ΔE] (2.294) was
with adjusted recipe). more yellowish than rib [dyed with main recipe + ΔE]
(2.226) and rib [dyed with main recipe + 1.2ΔE]
One-Way Analysis of Variance revealed that (2.048). Hence, the color difference is significant
L* values of rib (dyed with adjusted recipe) differed among these three shades. The purpose of the study

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 SSRG International Journal of Polymer and Textile Engineering (SSRG-IJPTE) – Volume 6 Issue 3 – Sep - Dec 2019

was to find the closest rib shade that matches with the swatch. Figure 3 radar chart is a visual representation of
target (single jersey). Considering that Table XIV was shade closeness with the target.
created by measuring color differences between single
jersey and rib (dyed with adjusted recipe). Table XIV Table XV showed CIELAB values of fleece
shows that the color difference is higher for rib (dyed specimens dyed with adjusted recipes. The mean and
with main recipe + 1.2ΔE) and rib (dyed with main standard deviation were calculated. In later, the mean
recipe + ΔE). On the other hand, rib (dyed with main values were used to compare the color difference
recipe + 0.8ΔE) is the closest one with the target between target (single jersey) and fleece specimens
(Table XVI).

TABLE XV
CIELAB values of fleece (dyed with adjusted recipe)

Main Recipe + ΔE L a b Mean SD

57.65 21.17 1.82 L 58.406 L 0.473
58.53 20.45 1.69 a 21.376 a 0.591
58.28 21.62 1.93 b 1.980 b 0.347
58.73 21.97 1.88
58.84 21.67 2.58

Main Recipe + 0.8ΔE L a b Mean SD

56.76 20.43 2.28 L 56.718 L 0.512
56.2 20.86 2.46 a 20.862 a 0.335
56.2 20.86 2.46 b 2.360 b 0.096
57.3 21.37 2.34
57.13 20.79 2.26

Main Recipe + 1.2ΔE L a b Mean SD

59.66 20.97 1.95 L 59.648 L 0.654
58.61 21.44 2.28 a 21.522 a 0.567
59.58 21.32 1.57 b 1.788 b 0.321
60.32 22.48 1.55
60.07 21.4 1.59

TABLE XVI
Measurement of color difference (single jersey vs fleece dyed with adjusted recipe)

Single Jersey VS Fleece ΔL ΔL2 Δa Δa2 Δb Δb2 ΔE

(Main Recipe + ΔE) -2.522 6.360 -0.884 0.781 0.236 0.056 2.683
2 2 2
Single Jersey VS Fleece ΔL ΔL Δa Δa Δb Δb ΔE
(Main Recipe + 0.8ΔE) -0.834 0.696 -0.370 0.137 -0.144 0.021 0.924
2 2 2
Single Jersey VS Fleece ΔL ΔL Δa Δa Δb Δb ΔE
(Main Recipe + 1.2ΔE) -3.764 14.168 -1.030 1.061 0.428 0.183 3.926

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 SSRG International Journal of Polymer and Textile Engineering (SSRG-IJPTE) – Volume 6 Issue 3 – Sep - Dec 2019

Besides that, the authors would like to propose

Main Recipe mathematical equations for the adjusted recipe
+ΔE formulation that can be used for shade matching
4 regardless of fabric structure, yarn count, twist, and
fiber content. They also suggested further investigation
2 on the proposed equations before generalizing it. The
equation demands to find CIELAB values of target and
0 the dyed specimen and red, yellow, and blue are
Main Recipe Main Recipe considered as the primary color coordinates. If CIELAB
+1.2 ΔE + 0.8ΔE values are greater than 0 in all cases for target and dyed
specimen and 0.8≤m≤1.2, then the equations for red,
yellow and blue color coordinates are as follows.

Fig 4: Color different between single jersey and fleece Red = R0 [1 + m (L/L0 – a/a0)] %
(dyed with adjusted recipe). Yellow = Y0 [1 + m (L/L0 – b/b0)] %
Blue = B0 [1 + m (L – L0)/L0] %
One-Way Analysis of Variance showed that R0 = Initial dyeing recipe for red color.
L* values of fleece (dyed with adjusted recipe) varied Y0 = Initial dyeing recipe for yellow color.
significantly (F2, 12 = 35.5105, p<0.000). Fleece [dyed B0 = Initial dyeing recipe for blue color.
with main recipe + ΔE] (58.406) was lighter than rib L0, a0, b0 = CIELAB value of target.
[dyed with main recipe + 0.8ΔE] (56.718) but darker L, a, b = CIELAB value of the dyed specimen.
than rib [dyed with main recipe + 1.2ΔE] (59.648) in m = Recipe adjustment factor
the final assessment. The variations were not
noteworthy for a* value (F2, 12 = 2.5806, p< 0.1169) However, sometimes fabrics are dyed in a
where fleece [dyed with main recipe + 0.8ΔE] (20.678) single color or combination of two colors instead of all
was less reddish than fleece [dyed with main recipe + these three colors. In this case, it is reasonable to use
ΔE] (21.376) and fleece [dyed with main recipe+ only the equation of that color or colors to formulate the
1.2ΔE] (21.522). The b* values demonstrated adjusted recipe. Finally, at the end of assessment one
significant difference (F2, 12= 5.4633, p< 0.0206 where can easily find out what value m produces the closest
fleece [dyed with main recipe + 0.8ΔE] (2.360) was shade to the target.
more yellowish than fleece [dyed with main recipe +
ΔE] (1.980) and fleece [dyed with main recipe + 1.2ΔE] VI. LIMITATION
(1.788). Hence, the color difference is significant
among these three shades. The objective of the study was to compare
color exhaustion based on different knit structures and
Table XVI was built based on the color to develop a framework of recipe formulation that
difference between single jersey and fleece (dyed with would facilitate the creation of more accurate shade.
adjusted recipe). It shows that the color difference is Even though the study conveyed by mimicking
higher for fleece (dyed with main recipe + 1.2ΔE) and industrial dyeing process, there were some limitations.
fleece (dyed with main recipe + ΔE). On the other hand, Most of the textile dyeing industries in Bangladesh uses
fleece (dyed with main recipe + 0.8ΔE) is the closest Sodium hydroxide (crystal) and Hydrogen peroxide
one with the target shade. Figure 4 radar chart is a (50%) for combined scouring and bleaching action.
visual representation of shade closeness with the target. Unfortunately, these chemicals are not allowed to sell
in traditional market as they are harmful to human
Predictive dyeing recipe formulation framework health and environment. The reported study used
CLOROX to bleach the cotton knits that consists of
Predictive dyeing recipe formulation is an Sodium hypochlorite and Sodium hydroxide [45].
essential job for dyeing masters before any kind of bulk Vinegar was used instead of acetic acid to neutralize the
dyeing process as they want to ensure uniformity and bleached and dyed fabric.
quality of the shade. Figure 5 represents the workflow
to develop predictive dyeing recipes for a dye-house IR [48] and Rota [49] dyers are widely used
master in a laboratory setting. At the end of the final for laboratory dyeing purpose, as it circulates the
assessment, the recipe of matched shade can be used in dyeing liquor within dye-pot for color levelness in the
bulk dyeing process. final shade. Consequently, the automatic control system
of these laboratory dyers maintains uniform rotational
speed, temperature, pressure and dyeing time. However,

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 SSRG International Journal of Polymer and Textile Engineering (SSRG-IJPTE) – Volume 6 Issue 3 – Sep - Dec 2019

the dyeing process is carried out in a small dyeing bowl The dyestuffs selected for the study was
for this study where specimens were continuously purchased from the local market and all of them were
steered by the investigators during the coloration reactive dyes with three fundamental colors (red,
process and the temperature was controlled by using yellow, and blue). Sufian et al., (2016) showed that the
digital burner and thermometer. brand of dye has a significant effect on the final shade.
This shade variability depends on the brand to brand
and origin of raw materials [32]

Fig 5. Predictive recipe formulation framework

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 SSRG International Journal of Polymer and Textile Engineering (SSRG-IJPTE) – Volume 6 Issue 3 – Sep - Dec 2019

VII. CONCLUSION The study should be replicated for varying

GSMs, fiber contents and appropriate dye types, yarn
The study compared three different weft sizes, twist/crimp, fabric count, yarn type and yarn
knitted structures (single jersey, rib, and fleece) based thickness. Likewise, dyes from various manufacturers
on color exhaustion. The “grey” fabric was gathered can also be compared to allow generalizing of
from one of the Bangladeshi textile industries since findings. This study focused on three knit types only.
they produced the knit structures by controlling all However, extending it to other types of knit
parameters uniformly. The selected fabric had the constructions and woven fabrics with varied weaves
same yarn count, lot, and origin. Red (3%), yellow and structural attributes. Such extension of this work
(3%), and blue (3%) reactive dyes were combined to could be helpful for both industry and academia.
form the initial dyeing recipe. In industrial practice, Using spectrophotometer for improving dyeing
all the colors are created by either combining these process and outcome has not been used before. It will
three fundamental colors or by using them separately be a unique contribution of this study. This research
(pure white shade does not need any color). The three study is also a good example of integrating
knit structures were dyed in the same dye bath, and knowledge from academia and industry to synergize
CIELAB values were measured for each construction the effort that will both groups. The reported study is
to analyze the relative color exhaustion. One-Way an exploratory attempt to synthesize the existing
Analysis of Variance revealed that CIELAB values techniques of alleviating existing issue of inducing
differed significantly on the basis knit structure, techniques on color-pick-up for creating congruence
which indicates each construction absorbed different between and among different knit construction that
amount of colors from red, yellow, and blue dyes in can bring higher opportunities in the realm of
the same dye bath. The analysis also found that designing also. It will bring textile and apparel
higher GSM did not always picked up more color in research closer to each other than ever before.
the dyeing process. Fleece (mean GSM = 293.882)
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