C O O P E RA T IV E E X T E N S I O N S E RV I C E

U N I V E R S I T Y OF K E N T U C K Y • C O L L E G E O F A G R I C U L T U R E

ID-115

Managing Commensal
Rodent Thomas G. Barnes,
Extension Wildlife Specialist
Michael F. Potter,
Extension Entomology Specialist

Problems in Kentucky
The house mouse (Mus mus- Several characteristics of
commensal rodents have
culus) and Nor way rat (Rattus allowed their populations
to flourish. These charac-
norvegicus) are two of the most teristics include: (1) their
troublesome and ability to sur vive in a wide
variety of climates and
damaging rodents in Kentucky. habitats, (2) a varied diet,
and (3) a high rate of
These rodents are called com- reproduction. Often,
homeowners first notice
mensal rodents because they house mice in the winter
live in such close association after the rodents’ fall
migration indoors in
with humans. search of food, warmth,
and shelter. It is ex-
tremely difficult to con-
trol house mice once they
have entered a home or
other building.
Many people tolerate
mice in their homes or
businesses because they
seem less objectionable
than rats. However, mice
infest far more structures
than do rats and can
cause considerable dam-
age.

AG R I CU LTU R E • HO M E E CONO M I CS • 4-H • D EV E LO P M E N T

Why Contr ol
Control rial food poisoning) when food is
contaminated with infected rodent
10 ounces. Rats are about 13- to 18-
inches long complete with a 6- to

Commensal feces. Rodents may also transmit

murine typhus, leptospirosis,
8 1/2-inch tail. They have coarse fur
that is generally brown scattered

Rodents? trichinosis, ratbite fever,

reckettsialpox, lymphocyctic
with black on top and a grey to
yellowish white belly.
It is difficult to place an economic choriomeningitis, and dermatitis. Mice and rats are prolific
value on the damage rodents cause. breeders. Female house mice will
The greatest economic loss is not
from how much they eat, but what
Rodent have 5 to 10 litters annually with 5
to 6 young per litter. Female rats
must be thrown out because of
damage or contamination. Food,
Biology and will have 4 to 6 litters every year
with 6 to 12 young per litter. Mice
clothing, furniture, books, papers,
heirlooms, and many other house-
Facts and rats give birth 19 to 23 days
after mating. Immature mice can
hold items are contaminated by House mice are small, brownish or breed at six weeks of age, and
mouse droppings or urine, or grayish, nondescript, agile rodents young rats can breed at 18 weeks of
damaged by their gnawing. Rodents with large ears and small eyes (see age. Rats have a life span of about
also gnaw through electrical wires, below). They have a 3- to 4-inch 12 to 18 months; whereas house
causing fires or appliance failure. semihairless tail attached to a 2 1/2- mice live about 9 to 12 months.
Rats can cause structural to 3 1/2-inch body. Adult house These rodents will eat almost
damage to buildings through their mice weigh between 1/2 to 1 ounce. anything, but mice in particular
gnawing or burrowing. Rats can The Norway rat, often called the prefer seeds and cereal grains. Rats
also cause considerable damage to brown or sewer rat, is much larger also like to eat meats, vegetables,
insulation when they burrow and than a house mouse, averaging 7 to and garbage. Mice and rats are also
form nests in walls and attics. fond of foods high in fat and protein
Rats and mice also may such as nuts, bacon, butter, and
transmit diseases to sweets. Keep these foods in mind
humans or livestock. when choosing a bait for snap traps.
The most notable Mice are inquisitive “nibblers” and
disease transmit- may make 20 to 30 visits to different
ted by mice is food sites each night. Rats tend to
salmonello- be more cautious in their feeding
sis (bacte- habits, preferring certain foods over
others. Rats also require water each
The House Mouse day when feeding on dry food. Mice
depend less on free-standing water
and usually obtain enough from
their diet.
MOUSE droppings—
average lenghth 1/4"

RAT droppings—
average length 3/4"

The Norway Rat

2
 Commensal rodents do not
need a large amount of living space. front feet: 4 toes
On any given day, rats normally do 1"
not travel farther than 100 to 150
feet from their shelter to obtain food
and water. Compared to rats, house
mice forage only short distances
from their nest. This distance is
usually not more than 10 to 25 feet.
hind feet: 5 toes
If enough food and water is avail-
able, these rodents need only travel
a few feet. For this reason, traps and
control devices must be placed in
areas where rodent activity is most
apparent. Rats and mice are noctur- RAT Tracks—
nal (active at night) and prefer to
travel along walls and other edges. Figure 1.— Tracks such as these in dust or mud indicate the presence of rats.
Keep these traits in mind when
positioning your control devices.
Mice are very inquisitive and will
investigate every new object placed rats do. Rats can swim as far as 1/2 along possible travelways and
in their feeding territory. Thus, if mile. feeding areas.
your control devices are not initially ■ Both species can run horizontally ■ Rodent sounds such as gnawing,
successful, move them to a different along insulated electrical wires, clawing, climbing in walls, running
location. small ropes, and the like with ease. in the attic, and various squeaks are
common at night.
Rats and mice have
remarkable physical Deter mining
Determining ■ Smudge or rub marks can be
found on beams, rafters, pipes,
abilities. When rodent- the Pr esence
Presence walls, or other places frequented by
rodents. These marks come from oil
proofing structures, be
aware of these abilities: of Rodents and dirt rubbing off rodents’ fur
along well traveled routes. House
■ Rats can crawl through an The natural habits of mice and rats mouse smudge stains are small and
opening 1/2" in diameter. House give homeowners evidence of difficult to detect.
mice can enter through an opening rodent activity. The following are ■ Runs (and burrows for rats) can
1/4" in diameter. some of these “rodent signs”: be found next to walls, along fences,
■ Mice have a vertical leap of more ■ Droppings may be found where next to buildings, and under bushes
than 12 inches, and rats more than rodents travel, near their shelters, or debris. Rats use the same routes
36 inches. or other places rodents frequent
■ Rats can climb vertical pipes of (see page 2). Droppings are usually
any size if the pipe is within 3 the first evidence of rodents in a
inches of a wall or other supporting dwelling and are a key indicator of
material. House mice can climb where you should place control
almost any vertical surface that is devices. Be aware that certain
rough including wood, brick, metal, insects, bats, and other species of
mice have droppings that may be 3/8"
wire mesh, and cables.
■ Mice can jump from a height of 8 indistinguishable from house mice
feet to the floor without injury. Rats droppings.
can drop 50 feet without being killed ■ Tracks
Tracks, including footprints or
or seriously injured. tail marks, may be seen on dusty
■ Rats have a horizontal leap of surfaces or in the mud (figures 1 &
more than 8 feet and can reach as 2). A tracking patch made of talc or
far as 13 inches along smooth flour can help you determine
vertical walls. whether rodents are present.
■ Both species are capable swim- ■ Urine stains
stains, either wet or dry,
MOUSE Tracks—
mers if they need to be. House will show up under ultraviolet
mice do not take to water as well as (black) light. Look for this sign Figure 2.—Smaller tracks such as
these indicate the presence of house
mice.
3
 other locations.
Rodents gnaw or chew into the
packet to feed on the bait.
As you would with any
poison, follow the la-
bel instr uctions com-
instructions
pletely and take gr eat
great
car
care e to position baits
Figure 3.— Tamper-resistant bait boxes help prevent accidental poisoning and in ar eas wher
areas where e chil-
also protect the bait from moisture. Place poison bait boxes along travelways of
rats and mice. dr en and pets cannot
dren
daily and their feet make a beaten (3) glue boards.
reach them. Dogs in
pathway along the ground. House par ticular will seek
mice create nearly indistinct, dust- Poison Baits
free trails that are not easily de- Rodenticides available to out and find baits in
tected.
■ Gnawing marks can be visible on
homeowners are formulated almost
exclusively as food-based baits
accessible ar eas.
areas.
doors, ledges, in corners, in wall containing seeds or grain to attract _______________________________
material, or other surfaces where the rodents. Most baits sold over If you have children or pets use
rodents are present. the counter are anticoagulants a “tamper-resistant” bait box to
■ Wood chips the consistency of containing a variety of active secure the bait (figure 3). These
coarse sawdust around baseboards, ingredients (See table 1 on page 8). boxes prevent accidental poisoning
doors, basement windows and These are slow-acting poisons and also protect the bait from
frames, and kitchen cabinets are requiring 3 to 5 days to cause moisture. Be sure the bait box you
further evidence of rodents. The death. The animals die from internal buy is large enough to accommo-
size of tooth marks frequently helps bleeding as a result of the loss of date several rodents at one time and
distinguish whether rats or mice are the blood’s clotting ability and has a self-feeding hopper for
the culprits. damage to capillaries. Grain baits in holding the bait. Stations should
a meal or pelleted form are available have at least two 1-inch openings for
Control T
Control actics
Tactics in small plastic, cellophane, or paper
packets. These sealed “place packs”
mice and two 2 1/2-inch openings
for rats. Placing rodent bait in the
Because mice and rats are prolific keep bait fresh and make it easy to box also makes the bait more
breeders, it is faster and cheaper to place the bait in burrows, walls, or
control them before their numbers
get too high. To successfully
control mice and rats you must
“think like a rodent,” keeping in
mind the animal facts and biology
noted above. Long-term results are
best achieved by using the follow-
refrigerator

ing combined methods:

■ reducing populations,
■ sanitation, and
■ rodent-proofing (exclusion).

Reducing Rodent
Populations
A B C
Other than calling a private Figure 4.— Set traps along walls as shown in A & B so rodent
pest control operator, you have passes over trigger. In tight spaces such as behind a
three control options: (1) toxic baits refrigerator, two traps should be set (C).
(called rodenticides), (2) traps, or
4
 to be emptied. These traps are
Figure 5.— Place multiple- expensive but can be effective,
capture traps with the entrance especially when trapping is done on
hole parallel to the wall. a continual basis. Place multiple-
capture traps with the entrance hole
parallel to the wall (figure 5).
Use enough traps to make the
endeavor short and decisive.
Because mice seldom venture far
from their harborage, space traps
no more than about 10 feet apart in
areas where mice are active. Place
traps against a wall, behind an
attractive because the rats or mice use around children and pets. In object, or in secluded areas where
will feel “protected” while feeding. addition, because rodents are rodent droppings, gnawing, and
You can purchase bait boxes captured by the trap, they are not as damage are evident.
from a variety of farm supply stores, likely to die in walls or other
hardware stores, or supermarkets. inaccessible areas and create odors. Glue Boards
Because mice feed only a short The simple wooden snap trap is An alternative to the use of
distance from their nest or shelter easy to use and available at most traps are glue boards, especially for
(called a harborage), you will supermarkets, hardware stores, or mice. Glueboards work like flypa-
achieve optimum control by placing farm supply stores. Bait the traps by per; when a rodent attempts to
multiple bait stations as close to the securing bacon, peanut butter, gum cross the glueboard, it gets stuck
harborage as possible. Do not space drops, chocolate, or fruit to the and suffocates. Place glueboards
bait boxes farther than 10 feet apart trigger with thread or a “twist tie.” along walls or other areas where
(preferably closer) for mice. Rats For more effective control set in rodents frequent (figure 6). It is not
tend to forage for food over greater pairs (figure 4) or use traps that necessary to bait glueboards,
distances. Place baits in their have an expanded trigger design. It although bait can entice rodents
travelways or near their harborage. often helps to leave the traps baited, onto the board in some situations.
Commensal rodents prefer to travel but unset, until the bait has been Glueboards lose their effectiveness
along walls and other edges rather taken at least once. Set snap traps in dusty areas unless covered. Cold
than across open areas, so position perpendicular to the wall with the temperatures may affect the tacki-
bait boxes and other control devices trigger against the vertical surface ness of the glue and make the board
flush with walls for best results. Do (figure 4). less effective. If the glue from the
not expect the rodents to go out of Another type of trap available at board comes into contact with a
their way to find the bait. Clearly most hardware and farm supply pet’s fur or child’s skin, it can be
label all bait boxes “Caution- stores is the multiple-catch trap removed with mineral or vegetable
Mouse/Rat Bait” as a safety precau- called a Tin Cat® or the Ketch-All®. oil.
tion. This device can capture and hold a Check traps and glueboards
Be aware that poisoned rodents dozen or more mice before needing every few days and dispose of dead
often die in inaccessible locations rodents in plastic bags. Remember
within a building, leading to persis-
tent and unpleasant odors. If you Protective Cover
find any dead rodents, dispose of
them by burying them or placing
them in plastic bags and putting
them in the trash. Wear gloves
when handling dead rodents to
Glue
prevent disease spread. Store any
unused bait in a locked cabinet out Board
of the reach of children and pets.

Traps
If signs indicate you do not have
a large rodent population, traps are
generally preferred over poisons Figure 6.— Glue boards are an alternative to traps. Place glue boards along walls
because they are less hazardous to or other areas where rodents frequent.

5
 containers have tight-fitting covers.

Rodent-pr oofing
Rodent-proofing
Once you have reduced or
eliminated a rodent population and
have removed the rodents’ food and
shelter, the final step in preventing
further problems is to “rodent-
proof” your property. The most
successful—and permanent—form
of rodent control is to “build them
out.” The best way to control
rodents is to prevent their entry.
Seal cracks and openings under
doors (including garage doors), in
building foundations and any
openings for water pipes, electric
Figure 7. — Store items off the ground so you do not attract rodents and to make
wires, sewer pipes, drain spouts,
rodent detection easier.
and vents (figure 9). Because mice
to wear gloves when handling dead are able to squeeze through open-
rodents. numbers. Store lumber, firewood, ings smaller than the diameter of a
crates, boxes, sacks, gardening dime, any hole larger than 1/4-inch
should be sealed with heavy duty
Sanitation equipment, pipes, and other items
wire screen (hardware cloth), heavy
off the ground so you do not attract
Proper sanitation or good sheet metal, mortar, or coarse steel
rodents. Off-the-ground storage also
housekeeping will help reduce wool. Do not use plastic sheeting,
makes it easier to detect any rodent
rodent problems, particularly in the wood, or any material the rodents
populations you might have (figure
case of rats. Because rodents prefer could gnaw through. Make sure
7 & 8). Do not allow garbage, trash,
seeds and grains, store these items doors, windows, and screens fit
and garden debris to accumulate,
(including pet foods) in sealed tightly. If not, cover the edges with
and make sure your garbage
containers. Don’t forget food items sheet metal to prevent gnawing.
that you store in garages or out- Because commensal rodents are
buildings. Weed seeds are a favored excellent climbers, you must also
food of mice; therefore you should seal any openings above ground
remove any weeds growing next to level.
your house or other buildings.
However, because mice can live in
such small nesting areas and
survive on tiny amounts of food,
good sanitation (particularly on
farms) alone will not eliminate an
existing infestation. While good
sanitation will seldom eliminate
mice, poor sanitation is sure to
attract rats and mice and will permit
them to thrive in greater numbers.
Most buildings in which food is
stored or used will support rodents
if not rodent-proofed, no matter how
good the sanitation. In addition, pay
particular attention to eliminating
places where rodents can find
shelter. If they have few places to
rest, hide, or build nests and rear
young, they cannot survive in large
Figure 8. — Trash cans stored off the ground are less likely to
attract rodents. Make sure containers have tight-fitting lids.

6
 Repair loose
fitting flashing.

Ventilation
Screens

Seal openings
Repair damaged around pipes.
ventilation screens
and foundation
Weatherstrip under vents.
garage and side doors so
they close tightly.

Figure 9. — Rats and mice can gain

entry to buildings through a variety
of openings.

Contr ol
Control
Methods NOT
Recommended
Sound and Electronic Devices Predators and Repellents
Although mice and rats are Biological Control Although mice and rats natu-
easily frightened by sudden, Although cats, dogs, and other rally avoid some odors and tastes,
unfamiliar noises, they soon be- predators may kill mice and rats, no repellents have been found to
come accustomed to repetitive they do not provide effective control solve a rodent problem. There are
sounds. Ultrasonic sounds, those in most circumstances. It is not no rodent repellents registered for
above the range of human hearing, uncommon to find rodents living in use in Kentucky.
have very limited use in rodent very close association with dogs and
control for four reasons: (1) the cats. Rats frequently live beneath a Fumigants
rodents quickly become accus- doghouse and soon learn to feed on While fumigants (poison gases)
tomed to the noise, (2) the devices the dog’s food when he is asleep or can be very effective, they are
produce a directional noise, (3) this absent. Mice and rats can also dangerous for home or business
directional noise does not penetrate obtain much of their food from the use. Fumigants are most often used
objects, and (4) the sounds lose pet’s dish or from what the pet to control rats in their burrows
their intensity quickly with distance. spills. outdoors. Because fumigants are
There is little scientific evidence HIGHLY TOXIC to humans and
these devices will drive established animals, only licensed pest control
mice or rats from buildings. operators should use them in and
around buildings.

7
Table 1. Rodenticides and the percent active ingredient usually found in food baits for house mouse and rat control.

__________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________
Common Percent Active
Name Chemical Ingredient used in
(brand name) Name Food Bait
_____________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________
Brodifacoum
(Havoc, Talon) 3-{3-[4'-bromo(1,1'-biphenyl-4-yl]-1,2,3,4-tetrahydro-1-naphthalenyl}-4-hydroxy-2H-1-benzopyran-2-one 0.005
__________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________
Bromadiolone
(Maki, Contrac) 3-{3-[4'-bromo(1,1'-biphenyl)-4-yl]-3-hydroxyl-1-phenylopropyl}-4-hydroxy-2H-1-benzopyran-2-one 0.005
______________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________
Bromethalin
(Assault, Vengeance) N-methyl-2,4-dinitro-N-(2,4,6-tribromophenyl)-6-trifluoromethyl) benzenamine 0.01
_____________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________
Chlorophacinone
(RoZol) 2-{(p-chlorophenyl) phenylacetyl}-1,3-indandione 0.005
_________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________
Cholecalciferol
(Quintox, Rampage) 9,10-Seocholesta-5,7,10(19)-trein-3-betaol 0.075
_____________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________
Diphacinone
(Ramik)(Di-Blox) 2-diphenylacetyl-1,3-indandione 0.005
_________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________
Fumarin
(Coumafuryl) 3-(0-acetonylfufuryl)-4-hydroxycoumarin 0.025
______________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________
Pival
(Pindone) 2-pivalyl-1,3-indandione 0.025
________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________
PMP
(Valone) 2-isovaleryl-1,3-indandione 0.055
____________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________
Prolin 3-( -acetonylbenzyl)-4-hydroxycoumarin + sulfaquinoxaline 0.025
________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________
Warfarin 3-(0-acetonylbenzyl)-4-hydroxycoumarin 0.025
_______________________________________________________________________________________________________________________

Educational programs of the Kentucky Cooperative Extension Service serve all people regardless of race, color, age, sex, religion, disability, or national origin.
Issued in furtherance of Cooperative Extension work, Acts of May 8 and June 30, 1914, in cooperation with the U.S. Department of Agriculture, C. Oran Little,
Director of Cooperative Extension Service, University of Kentucky College of Agriculture, Lexington, and Kentucky State University, Frankfort.
Issued 11-93, 1000 copies

Copyright © 1997 by the University of Kentucky Cooperative Extension Service. This publication may be reproduced in portions or its entirety for educational or non-
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