Fabric Science-Ii: Subject Code: 17UTF09

FABRIC SCIENCE-II
(For B.Sc. TEXTILE & FASHION DESIGNING SEMESTER – VI )
Subject code: 17UTF09
Prepared by
SC. ARJUN SUGES., M.Sc.,
DEPARTMENT OF TEXTILE & FASHION DESIGNING
SALEM SOWDESWARI COLLEGE

SELF FINANCING COURSES WING
SALEM- 636 010.
Version : 2019-2020
Contents
Contents
....................................................................................................................................................... 3
UNIT-1 ................................................................................................................................................... 9
1.1 FABRICS ...................................................................................................................................... 9
1.1.1 DIFFERENT FABRIC FORMING METHODS ................................................................ 9
1.2 DIFFERENCE BETWEEN WEAVING AND KNITTING .................................................. 12
1.3 KNITTING ................................................................................................................................ 14
1.3.1 TYPE OF KNITTING ........................................................................................................ 14
1.3.2 PRINCIPLES OF WEFT AND WARP KNITTING ...................................................... 15
1.4 KNITTING MACHINES ......................................................................................................... 16
1.4.1CLASSIFICATION OF KNITTING MACHINES .......................................................... 17
1.5 CIRCULAR KNITTING MACHINE ..................................................................................... 18
1.5.1 TYPES OF CIRCULAR KNITTING MACHINE ........................................................... 19
1.5.2 PROCESS FLOW CHART OF CIRCULAR KNITTING MACHINE ......................... 20
1.5.3 ADVANTAGES OF CIRCULAR KNITTING MACHINE .......................................... 20
1.6 ELEMENTS OF KNITTING MACHINE............................................................................... 21
1.7 KNITTING CYCLE OF LATCH NEEDLE WITH SINKER ................................................ 25
1.7.1 CYCLE OF NEEDLE ......................................................................................................... 26
UNIT –2 ............................................................................................................................................... 28
2.1 KNITTING TERMS AND DEFINITIONS ............................................................................ 28
2.2 WEFT KNITTING .................................................................................................................... 29
2.2.1 TYPES OF WEFT KNITTING .......................................................................................... 29
2.2.2 PROPERTIES OF WEFT KNITTING .............................................................................. 30
2.2.3 END USES OF WEFT KNITTING .................................................................................. 30
2.3 TUCK AND MISS STITCH ..................................................................................................... 30
2.4 BASIC WEFT KNIT STRUCTURES ....................................................................................... 31
2.5 DESCRIPTION OF CIRCULAR RIB...................................................................................... 33
2.5.2 INTERLOCK KNITTING MACHINE ............................................................................ 34
2.6 CHARACTERISTICS OF BASIC WEFT KNIT STRUCTURES .......................................... 36
2.6.1 CIRCULAR KNITTING GSM AND PRODUCTION CALCULATIONS. ................ 37
UNIT-3 ................................................................................................................................................. 39
3.1 SINGLE JERSEY ....................................................................................................................... 39
3.1.1 PLAIN JERSEY .................................................................................................................. 40
3.1.2 PIQUE KNIT FABRIC....................................................................................................... 41
3.1.3 HONEY COMB ................................................................................................................. 42
3.1.4 PEARL (PURL) .................................................................................................................. 43
3.1.5 TWILL FABRIC ................................................................................................................. 44
3.2 RIB FABRIC .............................................................................................................................. 45
3.2.1 1X1 RIB KNIT .................................................................................................................... 47
3.2.2 2X2 RIB KNIT .................................................................................................................... 47
3.2.3 DROP NEEDLE ................................................................................................................. 48
3.2.4 CARDIGANS ..................................................................................................................... 49
3.2.5 MILANO RIBS ................................................................................................................... 50
3.2.6 WAFFLE STITCH.............................................................................................................. 51
3.2.7 FLAT KNITTING .............................................................................................................. 52
3.2.8 PIQUE KNITTED FABRICS ............................................................................................ 53
3.3 INTERLOCK ............................................................................................................................. 54
3.3.1 EIGHT LOCK..................................................................................................................... 55
3.3.2 OTTOMAN RIB ................................................................................................................. 56
3.3.3 PIN TUCK .......................................................................................................................... 57
3.3.4 PONTE DI ROMA ............................................................................................................. 59
UNIT-4 ................................................................................................................................................. 61
4.1 JACQUARD KNITTING ......................................................................................................... 61
4.1.1 JACQUARD KNITTING TECHNIQUE ......................................................................... 62
4.2 NEEDLE SELECTION TECHNIQUES JACQUARD KNITTING MACHINE ................ 63
4.2.1 MECHANICAL JACQUARD ........................................................................................... 64
4.2.2 ELECTRICAL JACQUARD ............................................................................................. 66
4.2.3 FORMATION OF KNIT LOOP ....................................................................................... 68
4.2.4 FORMATION OF TUCK LOOP ...................................................................................... 69
4.3 COMPUTERIZED JACQUARD KNITTING MACHINES................................................. 70
4.3.1 THE RIB MACHINE ......................................................................................................... 71
4.3.2 ORDINARY DOUBLE-SIDED KNITTING MACHINE .............................................. 71
4.3.3 TWO-SIDED JACQUARD CIRCULAR KNITTING MACHINE ............................... 71
4.4 WEFT KNIT STRUCTURES.................................................................................................... 71
4.4.1 THE PLAIN KNIT STRUCTURE FABRICS .................................................................. 72
4.4.2 RIB STRUCTURES FABRICS........................................................................................... 73
4.4.3 PURL KNIT STRUCTURES FABRIC ............................................................................. 73
4.4.4 THE INTERLOCK STRUCTURES FABRIC .................................................................. 74
4.5 STRIPE YARN PROGRAMMING ......................................................................................... 75
4.5.1 FEEDER STRIPE ................................................................................................................ 75
4.5.2 ENGINEERING/AUTO STRIPE .................................................................................... 76
4.5.3 DIFFERENCE BETWEEN AUTO& FEEDER STRIPE MACHINE ............................ 77
4.5.4 AUT O-STRIPE IS USED FOR ......................................................................................... 77
4.6 KNITTED FABRIC FAULTS................................................................................................... 78
4.6.1 LIST OF KNITTING FAULTS FOUND IN KNITTED FABRIC ................................. 78
4.7 KNITTED FABRIC CAUSES AND REMEDIES................................................................... 82
4.7.1 LIST OF KNITTED FABRIC CAUSES AND REMEDIES ............................................ 83
UNIT 5 ................................................................................................................................................. 89
5.1 FLAT KNITTING ..................................................................................................................... 89
5.1.1 MAIN FEATURES............................................................................................................. 90
5.1.2 ADVANTAGES OF FLAT KNITTING MACHINE ..................................................... 91
5.1.3 PROCESS FLOW CHART OF FLAT BED KNITTING SECTION.............................. 91
5.2 YARN PASSAGE DIAGRAM OF A FLAT KNITTING MACHINE ................................ 92
5.3 FLAT BED KNITTING MACHINE AND THEIR FUNCTION ......................................... 92
5.3.1 NEEDLE BED .................................................................................................................... 93
5.3.2 RACKING OF NEEDLE BED .......................................................................................... 93
5.3.3 CAM BOXES ...................................................................................................................... 95
5.3.4 CARRIER CONTROL EQUIPMENT ............................................................................. 95
5.4 TRANSFER STITCHES........................................................................................................... 96
5.5 DROP-STITCH ......................................................................................................................... 96
5.5.1 DROP-STITCH PATTERN............................................................................................... 97
5.6 MACHINE PARTS OF FLAT BED KNITTING MACHINE .............................................. 97
5.6.1 APPLICATIONS FLAT KNITTING MACHINES ........................................................ 99
5.7 FULLY FASHIONED KNITTING ......................................................................................... 99
5.7.1 SEAMLESS KNITWEARS ............................................................................................. 100
5.7.2 BENEFITS OF SEAMLESS KNITTING TECHNOLOGY .......................................... 101
5.8 WARP KNITTING ................................................................................................................. 101
5.8.1THE PROPERTIES OF WARP KNITTED STRUCTURES .......................................... 102
5.8.3 THE OPEN LAP .............................................................................................................. 102
5.9 KNITTING ACTION ............................................................................................................. 103
5.9.1 KNITTING ACTION OF TRICOT WARP KNITTING MACHINE......................... 103
5.9.2 KNITTING ACTION OF RACHEL WARP KNITTING MACHINE ....................... 104
5.10 COMPARISON OF TRICOT AND RACHEL MACHINE. ............................................ 106
MODEL QUESTION PAPER.......................................................................................................... 108
OBJECTIVE TYPE QUESTION ...................................................................................................... 110
FABRIC SCIENCE-II
UNIT – I
Different fabric forming methods-Comparison of weaving and knitting- Principles of
weft and warp knitting – Comparison of weft and warp knitting – Classification of
knitting machines - Yarn passage diagram of a circular knitting machine – Knitting
machine elements and description - Knitting cycle of latch needle with sinker.
UNIT-II
Knitting terms and definitions - Principal weft knit stitches - Knit, tuck and miss
stitch formation and properties - Representation of weft knit stitches – Study of Basic
weft knit structures - Needle gating - Description of circular Rib & Interlock knitting
machine – Characteristics of basic weft knit structures – Circular knitting GSM and
production calculations.
UNIT-III
Single jersey knit fabric structures, their cam and needle order: Plain jersey, Pique,
Thick pique, Honey comb, Pearl and Twill. Rib fabric structures, their cam and
needle order: 1x1 rib, 2x2 rib, Drop needle, Royal rib, Polka rib, Double half
cardigan, Double cardigan, Milano rib, Waffle, Flat back, Swiss double pique and
French double pique. Interlock fabric structures, their cam and needle order:
Interlock, Eight lock, Ottoman rib, Pin tuck, Texi pique and Ponte di Roma.
UNIT-IV
Jacquard knitting - Needle selection techniques – Pattern jack, Pattern wheel ,
Pattern drum and Computerized jacquard knitting machines – Brief study on
specialty weft knit structures – Auto stripe yarn programming – Elastomeric yarn
insertion and effects – Knitted fabric faults – Causes and Remedies.
UNIT-V
Flat Knitting – Yarn passage diagram of a flat knitting machine – Mechanical type
Flat knitting machine - Needle bed assembly – Racking, Carriage and Cam box
arrangement - Transfer Stitch and Drop Stitch – Thread diagram, effects and
applications – Introduction to computer controlled Flat knitting machine. Concept of
fully-fashioned machines and seamless knitwear’s. Introduction to warp knitting –
Warp knitting terminologies – Open lap and closed lap. Knitting action of Tricot and
Raschel machines. Comparison of Tricot and Rachel machine.
Salem Sowdeswari College,Self-Financing Courses Wing
UNIT-1
1.1 FABRICS
Fabrics are the materials used for clothing, home textiles, and different
domestic and industrial usage. The word fabric means fabrication for the purpose
and predetermined objective. They are pliable, soft, durable, warm, cool, and elastic
according to the properties of their respective fibers, construction methods,
structure, and finishing.
Fibers are the smallest unit of fabrics, in the majority of the cases fibres are
converted to yarn. The properties of fibers depend on the source of origin.
Yarns are weaved or knitted to fabrics. Singular and blending of various

fibers and yarns also can be used to achieve the consequential outcome(better
aesthetic and performance)
1.1.1 DIFFERENT FABRIC FORMING METHODS
In Fabrics Forming Method there are three types we commonly used. These
are:
1. Weaving.
2. Knitting.
3. Non-Woven.
1. WEAVING
Weaving is essential to a great number of textile cultures, so let's get a little

more familiar with the process. Technically, weaving is defined by the interlacing of
two individual strands of yarn or thread at right angles. This pattern creates a
strong, yet flexible structure that holds the individual threads in place, thus creating
a solid cloth or fabric. Even today, most textiles are woven, usually by machines that
create an incredibly tight structure, but the process is essentially the same as hand
weaving.
WEAVING PROCESS
The process of weaving begins with a fiber, a long, thin material with a
certain amount of structural resilience. Fibers can be naturally occurring, like cotton
or wool, or can be synthetically produced, like nylon. When multiple fibers are
spooled together, they create a yarn or thread, which is then woven together into
fabric.
9
As we said earlier, weaving itself involves two independent strands of yarn or

thread, interlaced at right angles. That means that one set of strands will always be
horizontal, while the other set will always be vertical.
 The vertical strand is called the warp

 The horizontal strand is called the weft
2. KNITTING
Knitting is a method by which yarn is manipulated to create a textile or fabric,

often used in many types of garments.
Knitting creates multiple loops of yarn, called stitches, in a line or tube.

Knitting has multiple active stitches on the needle at one time. Knitted fabric consists
of a number of consecutive rows of intermeshing of loops.
As each row progresses, a newly created loop is pulled through one or more
loops from the prior row, placed on the gaining needle, and the loops from the prior
row are then pulled off the other needle.
Knitting may be done by hand or by using a machine.
Different types of yarns (fibre type, texture, and twist), needle sizes, and stitch
types may be used to achieve knitted fabrics with different properties
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3. NON-WOVEN FABRIC
Non-woven fabric is a fabric-like material made from staple fiber (short) and
long fibers (continuous long), bonded together by chemical, mechanical, heat or
solvent treatment.
The term is used in the textile manufacturing industry to denote fabrics, such
as felt, which are neither woven nor knitted. Some non-woven materials lack
sufficient strength unless densities or reinforced by a backing. In recent years, non-
woven have become an alternative to polyurethane foam.
Nonwovens are not made by weaving or knitting and do not require

converting the fibers to yarn. Nonwoven fabrics are engineered fabrics that may be
single-use disposable or a very durable fabric.
They are used in numerous applications, including; baby diapers, adult

incontinence products, wet wipes, surgical drapes and covers, liquid cartridge and
bag filters, face masks, air-conditioning filters, soil stabilizers and roadway
underlayment, erosion control, drainage systems, insulation (fiberglass batting),
pillows, cushions, and upholstery padding, carpet backing, automotive headliners
and upholstery, house wraps, and disposable clothing (foot coverings, coveralls).
USES OF NON-WOVEN FABRIC
Nonwovens may be a limited-life, single-use fabric or a very durable fabric.

Nonwoven fabrics provide specific functions such as absorbency, liquid repellency,
resilience, stretch, softness, strength, flame retardancy, washability, cushioning,
filtering, bacterial barriers and sterility.
These properties are often combined to create fabrics suited for specific jobs
while achieving a good balance between product use-life and cost. They can mimic
the appearance, texture and strength of a woven fabric, and can be as bulky as the
thickest padding.
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1.2 DIFFERENCE BETWEEN WEAVING AND KNITTING
Weaving:
Two or more sets of yarns are interlaced between one another at the right
angles into fabric. There is formed a textile structure when two sets of yarns are
interlaced with one another at right angles. Which yarns are stands on longitudinal
ways these are called warp yarns and width-wise yarns are called weft yarns.
Knitting:
One set of yarns are intermeshing with one another into fabrics. There is only
one sets of yarns, weft or warp. And the knitting is divided into two types. These are
Warp knitted fabric and weft knitted fabric.
DIFFERENCE
TOPICS WEAVING KNITTING
The fabric forming process by The fabric forming process by
Definition interlacement of warp threads. intermeshing of loops.
Very less or no elasticity. The fabric shows high amount of

Elasticity stretch and elasticity due to loop
structure.
Dimensional Good dimensional stability Less dimensional stability.

Stability which causes less shrinkage.
Durability More durable Less durable than woven Fabrics.
The fabric absorbs less The knitted fabrics absorb more

Moisture
moisture moisture because of their loose
Absorption
construction.
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The fabric provides good It creates problem after wearing for

Slacking And
stability due to intersecting of a long time.
Low Seining
yarns at right angle.
Air is less permeable due to Air permeability is more due to

Air
compact construction woven voluminous structure of knitted
Permeability
fabric. fabric.
woven fabrics are more Knitted fabrics are more resistant

inclined to crease .So ironing to crease. So it requires no ironing.
Crease
and iron retention are better
knitted fabric.
Production cost is more due to Production cost is less due to

Production
warp preparation and desizing modest manufacturing process.
Cost
process
TPI of yarn is comparatively TPI of yarn is comparatively lower

Yarn
higher than knitting yarn. than woven fabric.
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1.3 KNITTING
Knitting is the construction of the elastic, porous fabric, created by

interlocking yarns by means of needles. Knitted fabrics can be made much more
quickly and easily than woven fabrics at comparatively less cost.
Two yarns forming loops in each course of the fabric knit the fabric. Knitting
machines form loops of yarn with many pointed needles or shafts. The vertical rows
of loops are called ribs or Wales, and horizontal rows of loops are called courses.
Knitted fabrics are generally light in weight, comfortable in wear even during
travel, but yet require little care to keep their neat appearance. The tendency of knits
to resist wrinkling is another factor to boost up their popularity.
Knitted fabrics are used for designing active clothing such as sports clothing.
Their elastic nature permits for abundant physical activity.
1.3.1 TYPE OF KNITTING
Knitting is done by set of connected loops from a series of yarn in warp or

weft direction. Knitted fabrics are divided into two main types; they are
1. Warp knitting
2. Weft knitting
WARP KNITTING:
In a warp knitted structure each loop in the horizontal direction is made

from different thread. Sweater is made by this warp knitting techniques.
WEFT KNITTING:
In a weft knitted structure a horizontal row of loops can be made using one
thread and the thread runs in the horizontal direction. Most of the knitted fabrics
are produced by weft knitting.
14
1.3.2 PRINCIPLES OF WEFT AND WARP KNITTING
Basically warp and weft knitting process are totally different from one to
another. Following are the difference of warp and weft knitting.
WARP KNITTING WEFTKNITTING

The loops are produced to the length of The loops are produced to the width of the
1 fabric. fabric.
2 It is elastic to the length. It is elastic to the width.
Elasticity of the warp knitted fabrics is Elasticity of the weft knitted fabrics is
3
less than weft knitting. higher than warp knitting.
Its shrinkage properties are less. Its shrinkage properties is higher than
4
warp knitted fabrics
Here courses are needed for each pattern

5 Courses are equal to the pattern. .
row.
6 Yarns are supplied from beam. Yarns are supplied from cone
At least one yarn is required for each

7 Any number of needles.
needle.
Creating fabric by this method is suitable

8 Hand wash is suitable for weft knitting.
to dry wash.
9 Any design is done easily. All types of design are complex.
It is specially suitable for producing It is specially suitable for producing thin

10
coarser fibers fibers
15
1.4 KNITTING MACHINES
Knitting is the method of creating fabric by transforming continuous strands

of yarn into a series of interlocking loops, each raw of such loops hanging from the
one immediately preceding it. It is the most common method of interloping and is
second only to weaving as method of manufacturing textile products.
Knitted fabric can be produced by hand or machines. We can denote knitting

machine as it is a machine can convert one or one set of yarn into loop structured
fabric by the mechanical movement of it basic elements. The main basic elements of
knitting machine are needle, sinker and cam.
The machines used for the manufacturing of knit fabrics can be divided into
machines with individually driven needles and needle bar machines.
The former type of machine incorporates needles which are moved

individually by cams acting on the needle butt; they are used for producing weft
knits and are subdivided into circular knitting machines and flat-bed knitting
machines.
The needles used can be latch needles or compound needles. The needle bar
machines incorporate needles which move simultaneously, since they are all fixed to
the same bar; we distinguish full-fashioned knitting machines and circular loop-
wheel machines for the production of weft knit fabrics, which only use spring-beard
needles, and warp knitting machines which use spring-beard needles, latch needles
and compound needles.
16
1.4.1CLASSIFICATION OF KNITTING MACHINES
Knitting machine mainly classified two types.
1. Weft Knitting Machine.

2. Warp Knitting Machine.
17
1.5 CIRCULAR KNITTING MACHINE
In textile knitting sector, knitting process is classified into two, where one is
warp knitting and another one is weft knitting.
A circular knitting machine is a device which is used to produce weft knitted

fabrics in a semi or fully automated fashion.
This article is presented a details discussion on circular knitting machine with

its machine parts, machine types, applications etc.
18
Main Parts of Circular Knitting Machine:
Major parts of a circular knitting machine are listed in the following:
1. Legs
2. Cylinder
3. Dial
4. Needle
5. Cam Parts
6. Feeder guide
7. Cam
8. Supply Package
9. Creel
10. Top Stop motion
11. Anti Snarl Device
12. Tensioner
13. Positive feeder
14. Knitted fabric
15. Fabric spreader
16. Fabric withdrawal roller
17. Fabric winding roll.
1.5.1 TYPES OF CIRCULAR KNITTING MACHINE
19
1.5.2 PROCESS FLOW CHART OF CIRCULAR KNITTING

MACHINE
Yarn in the form of package

↓
Placing the yarn package in the creel
↓
Feeding the yarn
↓
Set the machine as per GSM & design
↓
Knitting
↓
Withdraw the roll fabric and weighting
↓
Roll marking process
↓
Checking or Inspection
↓
Numbering
1.5.3 ADVANTAGES OF CIRCULAR KNITTING MACHINE
Some key advantages of circular knitting machine are presented in the

following:
1. Smooth passing of Needles between cylinder and cams.

2. Better quality of plated fabric.
3. Fewer loads by high precision.
4. Life time guaranty of Ceramic yarn carrier.
5. Less friction for each part.
6. Longer needle’s life.
7. Save power consumption.
8. Fantastic Machine Speed.
9. Perfect gaps between all parts.
10. Immediate restart after setting.
11. Awesome Specification of Rib.
12. Save maintenance cost.
13. Longer needle life.
14. Special servomotor for take-up system.
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1.6 ELEMENTS OF KNITTING MACHINE
Knitting machines are used to produce a huge range of knitted fabrics for
clothing, household textiles and technical textiles.
Each needle is fed individually, and sheet of knitted fabric is formed, which is
then wound on take-down roller.
In knitting, fabric is made by forming loops from yarns coming in parallel

sheet form run in the direction of fabric formation.
Warp knitting machines are two types; Tricot and Rachel machines. Unlike
weft knitted fabric.
Warp knitted fabric is formed in lengthwise direction.
Knitting elements used in warp knitting are also different from those used in
weft knitting.
1. Guides and Guide Bar

2. Needle and Needle Bar
3. Sinker and Sinker Bar
4. Presser Bar
5. Latch Wire
6. Trick Plate
1. GUIDES AND GUIDE BAR:
Guide is a thin metal plate having a hole at one end through which warp
yarn passes. Guides are placed on a lead piece of 1 inch. At one end of guide, there is
a hole, and the other end is attached with a lead piece.
Gauge of guide bar is same as that of machine. The number of guide bars on
a machine is equal to the number of beams on the machine. Each guide bar is
threaded by yarns of individual beams.
These guide bars are given identical lapping movement, so consumption of

yarn will be the same. Different guide bars can have different lapping movement, so
consumption of yarn will also be different.
21
Guides are placed in such a way that there is needle between two guide bars.
Needle should be exactly in between two guides; otherwise, it will hit the needle
during lapping movement.
Guides and guide bar
2. NEEDLE AND NEEDLE BAR:
All three types of needles are used in warp knitting machine. Spring beard
needle is used for tricot knitting machine for raschel knitting machine, latch needle is
used for both tricot and raschel knitting machines, compound needle can be used.
Needles are placed in tricks of bar according to the gauge of machine. This bar is
called needle bar.
In weft knitting, needles move in track one by one according to design, while
in warp knitting machine, all needles are given identical upward and downward
motions, as in single course, all needles have identical movement, so needles
attached on a needle bar are lifted up and down with the help of cam fitted outside
the machine.
22
3. SINKER AND SINKER BAR:
Sinker is a thin metallic plate. Each needle is placed between two sinkers.
Sinkers are fitted on a bar through a lead piece. All sinkers are given identical
movement through shaft. Sinkers move forward and backward.
On tricot and raschel knitting machines, sinkers have different functions.

Fabric is held down with the help of neb and throat, while belly portion is used for
knocking over of loop.
In tricot knitting machine, sinkers are involved in whole loop formation

process, whereas in raschel knitting machine, they are used only for holding down
purpose and loop formation process is assisted with high take-down tension as
fabric is drawn at higher angle.
4. PRESSER BAR:
When using spring beard needle, there is a need of some external elements to
close the hook of the needle during casting off.
As spring beard needle is used on tricot warp knitting machine, an additional

element, called presser bar, is required across the full width of machine to close the
hook.
This bar works when needles start descending after receiving new yarn and helps in casting
off of old loop.
23
5. LATCH WIRE:
During loop formation on warp rasher knitting, when loop clears the latch
and comes on stem of needle, sometime there is chance of flicking back of latch
. This will cause closure of needle and prevent from taking new yarn. To
prevent latch to close the hook, a metallic wire extended across the full width of
needle bed is used.
6. TRICK PLATE:
This is a vertical plate extended across the full width of machine, which is also
sometimes called “knock over comb.” The latch needle moves up and down between
the blades or verges of trick.
The top edge of trick plate acts as the firm surface that assists in knock over.
The blades of trick plates ensure exact knocking over of stitches especially in longer
under lapping.
24
1.7 KNITTING CYCLE OF LATCH NEEDLE WITH SINKER
Needles have a rigid hook and latch which easily turning around the axis. It is
mostly used in weft knitting machine. Here, the stem carries the knitted loop in the
rest and clearing position. In another article I have shared loop formation or stitch
ACTION OF NEEDLE
25
1.7.1 CYCLE OF NEEDLE
The stitch formation process is divided in to ten operations.
1. Clearing,
2. Yarn lying or feeding,
3. Under lapping or yarn drawing,
4. Pressing,
5. Landing,
6. Joining,
7. Casting off or knocking over,
8. Loop forming,
9. Sinking,
10. Loop draw off.
1. Clearing:
The process of formation loop started by clearing operation in latch needle. Its
aim is ti draw the old loop below the latch. Sinker are constant and the latch is
opened and when the needle in high position then this clearing operation
performed.
2. Yarn Lying or Feeding:
While the needle motion is downwards, the hook take hold the yarn from
yarn guide. Here, the new feed yarn stay below the hook.
3. Under Lapping or Yarn Drawing:
The laying yarn is fertilized in the hook and the yarn is in tension when the
needle comes down. In this situation, while the needle moves downwards yarn lying
and under lapping occurs instantaneously.
4. Pressing:
The aim of pressing is to close the needle hook with the new feed yarn and
needle moves downwards.
5. Landing:
Placed the old loop on the latch is called landing. In latch needle machine,
pressing and landing operation performed instantaneously.
26
6. Joining:
Touching of new loops with the old loops is called joining. In this stage, the
needle comes downwards.
7. Casting Off or Knocking Over:
The old loops is completely release from the hook and then it falls on the new
loops and in this stage, the stem of needle comes downwards too. Joining and
casting off occurs simultaneously.
8. Loop forming:
Loop is formed here.
9. Sinking:
After making the loop its sink here for loop drawing off.
10. Loop draw off:
By formation of new loops along the horizontal a new course is made. By

using take down mechanism, produced course is drawn downwards. Then again the
loop formation process start and the needle come up.
27
UNIT –2
2.1 KNITTING TERMS AND DEFINITIONS
Knitting terms and definitions are very important for textile engineers and
especially for who is doing job in knitting industry. Knitting glossary is frequently
used in different viva board for textile engineering students.
In job interview knitting abbreviations and terminology are commonly asked.

For helping students and professional I have given some very important and
frequently asked in viva board knitting terminology
Some important terms of knitting have presented in the below:
1. Course:
A course is a predominantly horizontal raw of needle loops which is

produced by adjacent needles during the same knitting cycle is known as course.
In case of weft knitted fabric, a course is composed of yarn from a single

supply termed as a course length
(Number of loop × Loop length).
2. Wales:
In knitting sector, a wale is a predominantly vertical column of inter-meshed

needle loops which is generally produced by the same needle knitting cycles i.e. the
no. of vertical columns of loop of knit fabric is known as wale’s.
3. Needle:
A needle is a hooked metal part which is used for the formation f loops. It is
the principle knitting elements of the knitting machine.
All types of knitting needle should have the system to make a new loop and
return back the old loop. The knitting needles are two types where one is
independent needle and another one is united needle.
4. Needle carrier:
The place where the needles are set up is known as needle carrier. A part of
knitting machine containing independently by moving needles in a needle bed or
united needles in a needle bar to help in knitting action.
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5. Needle gauge or machine gauge:
The needle gauge of a knitting machine is measure expressed the number of

needle per unit of the needle bed or needle bar.
Machine gauge can be calculated by dividing the total number of needles into
the length of the needle bed.
6. Needle pitch:
The distance among two neighboring needles in the same needle bed from the
center of a needle to the center of a neighboring needle is termed as needle pitch.
It should be noted here, needle pitch is inversely proportional to needle

gauge.
2.2 WEFT KNITTING
Weft knitting is a knitted piece of fabric where the stitches run from left to
right horizontally across the fabric. It is usually knitted with one piece of yarn, and
can be made either by hand or using a knitting machine. Weft knitting is the most
common form of knitting as it is simpler than warp knitting, the other form of
knitting.
Weft knitting was the first type of knitting invented, Stockinet stitch is the
most common form of stitch used and it was first discovered in artifacts from as
early as the 11th Century. Many other stitches can be used in weft knitting such as
Purl, Double knitting, and patterns such as Cable, Fair Isle and Aran can be achieved
using different yarns in different colours and weights.
2.2.1 TYPES OF WEFT KNITTING
1. Plain Knit
2. Purl Knit
3. Interlock Knit
4. Rib Knit
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2.2.2 PROPERTIES OF WEFT KNITTING
 Very elastic
 Warm to wear
 Comfortable
 Shrinks easily
 Different properties can be achieved depending on the yarns used
 Can stretch out of shape easily
 Does not fray
 Unravels when cut
 Curls up at the edges
 Various colours/patterns can be achieved
 Good Insulator
2.2.3 END USES OF WEFT KNITTING
 Underwear
 Hosiery
 T-Shirts
 Sportswear
 Baby Clothes
 Pyjamas
2.3 TUCK AND MISS STITCH
Apart from the knitted loop stitch the two most commonly produced stitches
are the tuck stitch and the miss stitch (float stitch).
TUCK STITCH
A tuck stitch is composed of a held loop, one or more tuck loops and knitted
loops. It is produced when a needle holding its loop also receives the new loop.
The tuck loop assumes an inverted U-shaped configuration.
Tuck loops reduce fabric length and length-wise Elasticity because the higher
yarn tension on the tuck loop causes then to rob yarn from adjacent knitted loops,
making them smaller and providing greater stability and shape retention .
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MISS STITCH
A miss stitch or float stitch is composed of a held loop, one of more float loops
and knitted loops. It is produced when a needle holding its old loop fails to receive
the new yarn that passes, as a float loop to the back of the needle, and to the reverse
side of the resultant stitch.
A single float has the appearance of a U-shape on the reverse of the stitch.
Miss stitch (float stitch) fabrics are narrower than equivalent all-knit fabric
because the Wales are drawn closer together by the floats, and reducing width-
wise Elasticity and improving fabric stability.
2.4 BASIC WEFT KNIT STRUCTURES
All weft knitted fabric structures are classified into four basic groups
according to the arrangement of loops in their courses and Wales. Four primary
structures plain, rib, interlock and purls are the base structures from which all weft
knitted fabrics are derived. Short introductions of four primary structures are given
below.
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Plain structure:
The simplest and most basic structure is the “plain knit” which is also called
“single knit”. Plain is a knit structure family, which is produced by the needles of
only one set of needle with all the loops intermeshed in the same direction. Although
the plain knit family encompasses a great number of structures all produced on a
single needle bed.
Rib Structure:
Rib, also called “Double-knit” is the second family of knit structures. Rib
requires two sets of needles operating in between each other so that Wales of face
stitches and Wales of back stitches are knitted on each side of the fabric. Many types
of rib structures can be produced according to the arrangement of active needles in
the front and back needle beds.
Interlock structure:
The interlock structure is a variant of the rib form in which two threads are
alternately knitted by the opposite needles so that interlocking occurs. Interlock is an
interlocking of two 1 x 1 rib structures in such a way that the face wale of fabric “1”
is directly in front of the 'reverse wale' of the rib fabric “2”.
Purl structure:
Purl knit structures is the third family of knit structures. In the purl fabric
structure, loops are drawn to opposite sides of the fabric, which, on both sides, has
the appearance of the back of a plain stitch fabric.
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2.5 DESCRIPTION OF CIRCULAR RIB
Circular rib has a vertical cord appearance. It is more expensive fabric to

produce than plain fabric. Structure of rib fabric is heavier. To produce rib fabric rib
circular knitting machine is widely used.
In rib circular knitting machine group there is one set of needles on the
circumference of a vertical cylinder and a second set of needles, arranged
perpendicular to the first set and mounted on a horizontal dial. On most of the
circular knitting machines the cylinder and dial rotate, whereas the cams with yarn
feeder guides are stationary.
In this article I will explain knitting action of rib circular knitting machine.
2.5.1 KNITTING ACTION OF THE RIB CIRCULAR KNITTING

MACHINE
The knitting action of a circular rib machine consists of three actions.
 Clearing
 Yarn Feeding
 Knocking-over
Diagram of knitting action of a circular rib machine
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(a) Clearing:
The cylinder and dial needles move out to clear the plain and rib loops
formed in the previous cycle.
(b) Yarn Feeding:
The needles are withdrawn into their tricks so that the old loops are covered
by the open latches and the new yarn is fed into the open hooks.
(c) Knocking-over:
The needles are withdrawn into their tricks so that the old loops are cast off
and the new loops are drawn through them. In a gauge range from 5 to 20 npi, an
approximately suitable count may be obtained using the formula NeB = G2/8.4,
where NeB = cotton count and G = gauge in npi. For underwear fabric, a popular
gauge is E 14 with a count of 1/30’s.
2.5.2 INTERLOCK KNITTING MACHINE
Interlock structure is a double faced Interlock structure which consists of two

1×1 Interlock structures. These two 1×1 Interlock structures are joined by
interlocking sinker loops and thus produce interlock structure. Interlock structure is
produce by special cylinder dial circular machines. Double system V-bed flat
knitting machine also used to produce interlock structure.
Machine description:
The machine has two sets of needles on two different beds, one set on
cylinder one in the dial bed. These two sets of needles must be exactly opposite to
each other.
The machine has two separate cam system in each bed needles of different
length called short needles and long needles. Each cam system controls half of the
needles in alternate sequences. One cam system controls knitting at one feeder and
other ca, system controls at the next feeders. T ale down mechanism is the same as
the other Interlock and plain machines mechanism.
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35
2.6 CHARACTERISTICS OF BASIC WEFT KNIT STRUCTURES
In the table we have shown characteristics of plain, rib interlock and purl
fabric structures.
PROPERTIES PLAIN RIB INTERLOCK PURL

Different on Same on both Same on both Same on both
face & back; V- sides, like sides like face sides, like
Appearance
shapes on face, back of plain of plain back of plain
arcs on back
Either end Only from Only from end Either end
Un roving end knitted knitted last
last
Tendency to No tendency No tendency to No tendency
Curling
curl to curl curl to curl
Thicker & Much thicker Very much Very much
warmer than & warmer thicker & thicker &
Thickness &
plain woven than plain warmer than warmer than
warmth
made from plain plain
same yarn
Lengthwise Moderate (10- Moderate Moderate Very high
20%)
Widthwise High (30-5-%) Very high (50- Moderate High

100%)
Area Moderate-High High Moderate Very high
Basic T-shirt Socks, cuffs, Underwear, Children’s
(men's and waistbands, shirts, suits, clothing,
ladies), Ladies collars, sportswear, knitwear,
stockings, fine Underwear, trouser suits, thick and
cardigans, knitwear. dresses. heavy
End-uses dresses, base outerwear.
fabric for
coating, fully
fashioned knit
wear etc.
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2.6.1 CIRCULAR KNITTING GSM AND PRODUCTION CALCULATIONS.
Firstly we have to collect the circular knitting machine specification data from
the m/c specification card and then we should to identify that which type of fabric is
produced by the machine which count of yarn is being used. These data are also
provided in the order sheet. Besides, we have to note down the m/c RPM from
program screen. Another important parameter of knit fabric is stitch length. When a
new design of fabric is being started to produce then firstly the stitch length of the
fabric must be adjusted and should be correct otherwise the required GSM of
fabric can’t be gained.
1. The following relation can be found among GSM, stitch length and count.
{sd( in Inch) × sl(mm) × tex}/100

GSM = ------------------------------------------------------
100
k
= --------------------------------
yarn count x sl
sd = stitch density= wpi x cpi
sl = Stitch length in mm
tex = Tex count
2. Fabric length in meter/ Shift

Course Per Minute (CPM) x 60 x 8
= -------------------------------------------------
Course Per Inch (CPI) x 100
RPM of Cylinder x no. of feeder x 60 x 8

= -----------------------------------------------------------
CPI x 100
3. Fabric width in meter
πDG
= -------------
wpc
Total no. of wales

= ---------------------------------------
Wales / cm x 100
Total no. of Needles used in knitting

= ---------------------------------------------------
Wales / cm x 100
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4. No. of Needle = Πdg
5. Production Formula (Circular Knitting Machine):
πDG x RPM x Feeder x SL x 60 x 8

Production in kg / Shift = -------------------------------------------------------------
10 x 2.54 x Count (Ne) x 840 x 36 x 2.204
Π = 3.14
D = Cylinder diameter
G = M/C gauge
RPM = M/C speed
Feeder = No of feeders in the m/c
SL = Stitch Length
Count = Yarn count
6. Production Formula for Flat Bed Knitting Machine:
Three Feeders per Stroke:
No. of strokes per minute x No. of feeders x 60 x

Efficiency
Production (Pieces/Hour) = --------------------------------------------------------------------------
No. of courses per piece
= (25 × 3 × 60 × 1) / 80
= 57 pcs/hr
No of strokes per minute: 25

No of feeders: 3
No of Courses per piece: 80
Working efficiency: 100%
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UNIT-3
3.1 SINGLE JERSEY
Like a plain weave for a woven fabric, Single Jersey is the simplest form of
knitted fabric. It is a straightforward construction using only knit stitches on the face
of the fabric.
The crown of the loop will be towards the back of the fabric, and only the two
legs will be visible in the form of a ‘V’
A fabric in which the knitted loops are the same sort and meshed in
the same manner.
Single jersey is the simplest to knit and it can be produced either on

circular or flat machines by means of one set of needles which draw their
loops to only one side of the fabric.
The fabric has one a earache on the face side and a different one on
the reverse. The side on which the straight arts of the stitches a year in V
formation is called the face side and the reverse side has twin rows of
opposed semi circles.
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CHARACTERISTICS OF JERSEY FABRIC:
 Single jersey typically has approximately twice the stretch in the width
direction compared to the length direction.
 Cut fabrics will unravel from both ends very easily.
 Fabric thickness is approximately two‐yarn diameters.
 Jersey fabrics will curl at the edges. The sides will curl to the back, while
the top and bottom edges will curl to the face.
 If a yarn is broken in a plain jersey fabric, a run will form vertically as the
broken loop drops the loops below and above it.
 The plain jersey knit produces a relatively light-weight fabric and has a
very high rate of production.
3.1.1 PLAIN JERSEY
Plain stitch, also called Jersey Stitch, Flat Stitch, or Stockinet Stitch,
basic knitting stitch in which each loop is drawn through other loops to the right
side of the fabric. The loops form vertical rows, or Wales, on the fabric face, giving it
a sheen, and crosswise rows, or courses, on the back.
Plain-stitch knitting is a filling knit construction and can be made by hand

and on both flat and circular knitting machines. The fabric produced is flatter and
lighter in weight than other knit types, with more stretch in the width than in the
length. The plain stitch is used for underwear, hosiery, T-shirts, gloves, and
sweaters.
PLAIN JERSEY
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A jersey is an item of knitted clothing, traditionally in wool or cotton,

with sleeves, worn as a pullover, as it does not open at the front, unlike a cardigan. It
is usually close-fitting and machine knitted in contrast to a Guernsey that is more
often hand knit with a thicker yarn. The word is usually used interchangeably
with sweater.
The shirts now commonly worn by sports teams as part of the team uniform
are also referred to as jerseys, although they bear little resemblance to the original
hand-knitted woolen garments.
TYPES OF PLAIN JERSEY
 Single jersey
 Double jersey
 Interlock jersey
 Jacquard jersey
 Clocqué jersey
 Stretch jersey
3.1.2 PIQUE KNIT FABRIC
A staple fabric in the sportswear industry, pique has long been regarded as
the go-to fabric for polo shirts and dresses, tennis skirts and a variety of golf wear.
‘Pi-Kay’ refers to the weaving style characterized by the raised parallel cords.
Mainly woven of cotton, pique has proven to be breathable, durable and

easily cared for as its textured weave does not show perspiration stains readily. Just
as any other jersey, this fabric has excellent give and comfort ability.
Pique fabrics add subtle interest and texture to a garment and are typically
easy to care for. The waffle-like construction also breathes well. Since it is simply a
form of fabric construction, pique garments are found in a variety of fiber contents,
including polyester, cotton, and blended fabrics.
TYPES OF PIQUE FABRIC
Although pique knits in general are considered durable, the fibers used and
tightness of the construction contribute to the extent of durability. Tighter knit
construction causes fabric holes to be smaller than traditional pique, and may be
called baby pique or micro pique.
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This construction can add features such as snag resistance to a garment.

Polyester fibers, being highly resistant to fading and shrinking, are being used more
in pique pools.
If this article has piqued your interest in pique polos, please swing by our
shop and see the variety of samples we have on display. (sorry, I couldn't resist) As
the garment experts, we'd be happy to direct you to the fabric and garment that best
fits your needs - whether you pronounce it correctly or not.
3.1.3 HONEY COMB
There are many different ways to add texture to knitting, from working knits
and purls on the same row to make textured stitch patterns to knitting cables and
more.
Using slipped stitches is another way to add texture. Slipped stitches stand out,
but even more so when you slip the stitches holding the yarn in a particular way so
that the little extra bit of yarn underlining the slipped stitch becomes a decorative
feature.
Such is the way with Slip Stitch Honeycomb, a really simple stitch pattern that's
based on Garter Stitch but looks a lot different because of the slipped stitches.
There are many variations to create this honeycomb texture, from other ways
to get a similar pattern using slip stitches or cables. Whilst the following pattern is
slightly more complex than most of the honeycomb stitches it gives a denser, more
intricate reversible pattern that is excellent for scarves or hats.
The variation of the stitch involves combinations of slip stitches,

knitting/purling two together with yarn over (in addition to your stock knit and
purl stitches) to create this beautiful fabric.
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KNIT SLIP STITCH HONEYCOMB
This is a great stitch pattern because it can be worked on any odd number of
stitches, so you can use it for all sorts of purposes.
The other thing you need to know about the pattern is that the plain knit rows
are considered the front or right side of the work. Because the stitches are slipped with
the yarn in back on wrong side rows, the yarn strands become part of the fabric on the
right side.
Rows 1 and 3: (right side) Knit.
Row 2: Knit 1, *slip 1 with yarn in back, knit 1. Repeat from

* across.
Row 4: Knit 2, *slip 1 with yarn in back, knit 1. Repeat from

* across, ending with an additional knit 1.
Repeat these four rows for pattern.
This pattern is sometimes also called Loop Pattern or Loop Stitch, but you can
see why it's called honeycomb, too.
3.1.4 PEARL (PURL)
Knitting is the art of creating a fabric by making interlocking loops of yarn.

There are two basic ways to create these loops.
The action of inserting your needles through the bottom of a loop and pulling
a new loop down and through the first loop is called 'knitting'. The action of
inserting your needles from the top of a loop and pulling a new loop up and through
the first stitch is called 'purling'.
You can insert the working needle (the needle held in the right hand) into the
working stitch (the one on the left needle) either in on top (in front) or underneath
(in back) of the left needle. When you insert the working needle underneath, this is
called 'working through the back loop'.
When you insert the working needle on top, this is called 'working through
the front loop'. Combining knit or purled stitches and changing whether the stitch is
worked through the back or front loop gives a knitted fabric its texture and pattern.
There are different methods for holding the yarn and needles.
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Some knitters feel that the Continental method is faster because there is less
waste motion. Because the yarn is controlled in the left hand, the Continental
method may also be a little easier for left-handed knitters and somewhat more
difficult for right-handed ones. Both methods work well and if one does not feel
comfortable to you, you may want to try the other one.
This tutorial teaches you how to purl through the front loop using the English
method. We offer this tutorial in both video and written format.
PEARL VS PURL
PEARL is a lustrous, spherical gem that grows inside an oyster, clam or other
bi-valve mollusk. A pearl is made up of calcium carbonate that forms in layers
around a speck of sand. Pearls are generally white or grayish. Pearl may also be used
to describe an artificial gem that resembles a pearl or something with the luster or
color of a pearl. Pearl may be used as a noun, adjective or verb to describe
applying pearls decoratively or harvesting pearls. Related words are pearls, pearled,
pearling, pearlize, pearler. Pearl may be used figuratively to describe something
precious.
PURL is a knitting stitch which basically consists of executing a plain stitch,

backward. Purl may also describe an edging made of purl stitches. Purl may be used
as an adjective and a verb, related words are purls, purled, purling.
3.1.5 TWILL FABRIC
A knitted structure is characterized by its interlacing loops. Two basic types

of knits can be defined according to the general direction of travel of a looped thread
in the fabric. In weft knitting, the thread runs widthwise, and the loops are formed
by a single weft thread
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Simple weft and warp knits can provide extensibility in all directions and are
thus suitable for deep-draw molding techniques. Directional stability can be
established by adding in-laid (non knitting) yarns in the desired directions
Twill refers to a class of fabrics distinguished by diagonal ribs (which appear

like diagonal lines on the face of the fabric).
Their weave structure makes them durable and more stain-resistant than flat-
surfaced plain weave fabrics, which is why they are associated with work wear and
casual, no-nonsense pants and shirts.
There are different types of Twill. Some of them are Chino, Gabardine and
Drill.
3.2 RIB FABRIC
Rib, also called 'Double-knit’ is the second family of knit structures. Rib
requires two sets of needles operating in between each other so that Wales of face
stitches and Wales of back stitches are knitted on each side of the fabric.
Rib fabrics are knitted on machines with two sets of needles.
45
DIFFERENCE BETWEEN PLAIN KNIT FABRIC AND RIB FABRIC:
PLAIN FABRIC & M/C RIB FABRIC & M/C

1. Face side and Backside of fabric are
1. Face side and Back side of fabric are same.
different
2. Less expensive 2. Expensive
3. Lighter fabric 3. Heavier fabric.
4. Produce by S/J m/c. 4. Produce by Double Jersey m/c.
5. The m/c. contains no Dial. 5. The m/c. contains Dial.
6. The m/c. contains Sinker 6. The m/c. contains no Sinker
7. The m/c. contains one set of needle 7. The m/c. contains two set of needle
8. Extensibility: 8. Extensibility:
a) Length wise – 10 to 20% c) Length wise – 50 to 80% (for 1´1 rib)
b) Width wise – 30 to 40% d) Width wise – 30 to 45% (for 1´1 rib)
9. Thickness & Warmth: Thicker and 9. Thickness & Warmth: Much thicker
wormier than plain woven made from and wormier than plain woven made
same yarn. from same yarn.
10. Curling: Tendency to curl 10. Curling: No tendency to curl
11. End use: Ladies stocking, fine

cardigan, men and ladies dresses, 11. End use: Socks, cuffs, warm
sweater etc. outerwear, under wear etc.
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3.2.1 1X1 RIB KNIT
A type of fabric construction commonly used for sleeve and neckbands that is
highly elastic and retains its shape. 1x1 rib knit construction is a pattern of one rib,
one flat space, one rib, one flat space, etc. Both sides of this knit fabric look identical.
The ATC P Tech Fleece Jacket, style #F221, has 1x1 rib knit on the cuffs as well as the
bottom hem.
The most popular form of ribbing. It is obtained by alternating knit and purl
stitches in one row and “knitting by pattern” in every next row. This means that we
make a knit stitch when previous row stitch looks like V and make a purl stitch
when the previous looks like a bump.
Rib Stitch is great when you need to add some elasticity to knitted fabric. It is
often used for sweater cuffs and necklines, as a border for hats, mittens, and socks,
or even for the whole garment to make it ideally fitted.
3.2.2 2X2 RIB KNIT
The 2×2 Rib Stitch is great for knitting scarves, hats, blankets, and more! With
a repeating pattern of knit and purl techniques, you can create a simple,
stretchy ribbing project. This 2-Row Repeat Knit Stitch Pattern is perfect to knit up a
chunky scarf. This knitting project is an easy level project, perfect for everyone who
has completed my Absolute Beginner Knitting Series.
Get all of your materials, techniques, with written and charted pattern
instructions, both flat on straight needles and in the round on circular
needles below.
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Another popular form of ribbing. It’s almost identical to the 1x1 Rib Stitch,
but is made by alternating 2 knit and 2 purl stitches in every Is used to add elasticity
to knitted fabric, in particular for sweater cuffs and necklines, as a border for hats,
mittens, and socks, or even for the whole garment to make it ideally fitted.
3.2.3 DROP NEEDLE
A knitted Drop Needle fabric is made in such a way that during the knitting
of the fabric, one or some needles are set to drop the stitch at regular intervals.
Meaning, according to the setting of the machine, those needles will be dis-engaged
to stitch and then again engaged right after skipping a stitch.
This fabric creates lines / stripes on the fabric, just like a knitted rib, but in a
set pattern which will be repeating. It all depends how you want your design to be,
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there are several options within the knitting machine, and you can create hundreds
of patterns on the fabric.
3.2.4 CARDIGANS
Cardigans are a variation of Rib Knit with half Cardigan and Full Cardigan
varieties. The fabric has specific patterns of tuck stitches. These produce a raised
effect and hence, cardigans are a thicker fabric.
HALF CARDIGAN
The Half Cardigan is made of one course of all knit on both needle beds and
second course of all knit on front needles and all tuck on back needles. The tuck
loops present in the fabric reduce the stretch in width direction.
It is not reversible fabric. They are generally coarsely knitted and used for
making pullovers and sweaters.
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FULL CARDIGAN
The Full Cardigan is made of a repeat of one course of all knit on front
needles and all tuck on back needles, the second course of all tuck on front needles
and all knit on back needles.
Full Cardigan looks identical on both sides. Excessive tuck loops make the
fabric bulky and thick. It is usually knitted in coarser gauge and widely used in
making sweaters and fashion garments. Cardigans are usually made of Wool or
Acrylic.
HALF CARDIGAN FULL CARDIGAN

 No rolling tendency;  No rolling tendency;
 Both sides of the fabric have the  The two sides of the fabric have
same stitch appearance; different stitch appearance – one
side is very even and flat, the other
 Good elasticity, very good side appears to be coarser and has
stretchability especially in horizontal an uneven grained surface;
direction;
 Good elasticity, good stretchability
 Thicker than Single Jersey; especially in horizontal direction;
 Also called Full Tuck.  Thicker than Single Jersey.
3.2.5 MILANO RIBS
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Milano Ribs are a variant of Rib Knit with half Milano and full Milano
variations. The fabric has specific patterns of knitting and misses.
HALF MILANO
Half Milano is made of a repeat of one course of all knit on both needle beds
and second course of all knit on front needles only. It has an unbalanced structure.
It is usually knitted coarse gauge and widely used for making sweaters.
FULL MILANO
Full Milano is made of a repeat of one course of all knit on both needle beds,
the second course of all knit on front needles only and the third course of all knit on
back needles only.
Full Milano is finely knitted fabric and has better coverage. It has greater
dimensional stability than half Milano rib. It is widely used as suiting fabrics.
FULL MILANO HALF MILANO
 No rolling tendency;  No rolling tendency;

 Both sides of the fabric have the  The two sides of the fabric have
same stitch appearance; different stitch appearance – one
 Very firm with characteristics closest side has smaller, more compact
to woven fabric; stitches and the other side has
 Uneven, structured surface; longer, stretched stitches;
 Low elasticity;  Low elasticity;
 Good dimensional stability;  Good dimensional stability;
 Used for collars;  Base of multicolored Jacquards;
 Thicker than Single Jersey.  Thicker than Single Jersey;
 Also called Half Tubular.
3.2.6 WAFFLE STITCH
This yummy Waffle Stitch Pattern, with its series of knits and purls, resembles
one of our favorite breakfast treats. You are sure to love this easily memorable, all-
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around stitch for your fashion and home decor knitting projects. This 4-Row Repeat
Knit Stitch Pattern is an easy level project.
The waffle stitch pattern is simply lovely and creates a nice textured pattern
on your fabric.
And because it is made with knit and purl stitches it's a great stitch pattern for
beginner knitters to practice with.
3.2.7 FLAT KNITTING
Flat knitting is a method for producing knitted fabrics in which the work is
turned periodically, i.e., the fabric is worked with alternating sides facing the knitter.
Another method of reaching the same result is to knit alternately from right to left
and left to right without turning; this back-and-forth technique requires either innate
or learned ambidextrous motor skills.
The two sides (or "faces") of the fabric are usually designated as the right
side (the side that faces outwards, towards the viewer and away from the wearer's
body) and the wrong side (the side that faces inwards, away from the viewer and
towards the wearer's body).
Flat knitting is usually contrasted with circular knitting, in which the fabric is
always knitted from the same side. Flat knitting can complicate knitting somewhat
compared to circular knitting, since the same stitch (as seen from the right side) is
produced by two different movements when knitted from the right and wrong
sides.
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3.2.8 PIQUE KNITTED FABRICS
Pique Knitted Fabrics are in Vogue and meets today’s Fashion

Era. Pique Knitted Fabrics are made using Finest Quality Yarns which are
compliance to Export Standards.
Pique Knitted Fabrics are available in Circular Knitting technique. We also

ensure that Pique Knitted Fabrics are sent to Standard Dyeing and Processing
Houses to meet the expectations of the Buyer’s.
As a Routine Pique Knitted Fabrics are available in below mentioned

Standards. Pique Knitted Fabrics can also be Customized according Buyer’s
requirement. There are two varieties of double pique
 French pique
 Swiss pique.
Both these are produced on a 4 feed cycle. Both the structure is almost similar
and there is a little difference in knitting cycle. Both are heavy, stable structures and
they do not curl
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3.3 INTERLOCK
Interlock has the technical face of plain fabric on both sides, but its smooth
surface cannot be stretched out to reveal the reverse meshed loop Wales because the
Wales on each side are exactly opposite to each other and are locked together.
Each interlock pattern row requires two feeder courses, each with a separate
yarn that knits on separate alternate needles, producing two half-gauge 1 x 1 rib
courses whose sinker loops cross over each other. Thus, odd feeders will produce
alternate wales of loops on each side and even feeders will produce the other Wales.
Interlock fabric structure
 There are TWO type of needle arrangement in circular machine.

 When the needle heads are offset with each other, it is called rib gating e.g.
1x1 ribs, 2x2 ribs.
 If the needle heads are facing with each other, it is called interlock gating,
e.g. interlock fabric
INTERLOCK CAM SYSTEM
The cylinder and dial needle camming to produce one course of ordinary
interlock fabric, which is actually the work of two knitting feeders. In this example,
the dial has a swing tuck cam that will produce tucking if swung out of the cam-
track and knitting if in action.
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Interlock Cam Arrangement System
THE CYLINDER CAM SYSTEM
A Clearing cam which lifts the needle to clear the old loop.
Stitch and guard cams respectively, both vertically adjustable

B, C
for varying stitch length
Up throw cam, to raise the cylinder needle whilst dial needle knocks-
D
over
E, F Guard cams, to complete the track.
G, H Guide cams that provide the track for the idling needles.
3.3.1 EIGHT LOCK

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8 Eight lock interlock knitting machines makes the fabric is a 2x2 version of
interlock that maybe produced using an arrangement of two long and two short
needles, provided all the tricks are fully cut through to accommodate them and
knock-over bits are fitted to the verges to assist with loop formation on adjacent
needles in the same bed.
Interlock requires eight cam systems or locks in order to produce one

complete course, two cam systems for each feeder in each needle bed. Basics I
cylinder and dial machines having this arrangement are often referred to as 8 Eight
lock interlock knitting machines.
The fabric made by 8 Eight lock interlock knitting machines is a well-

balanced, uniform structure with as softer, fuller handle, greater width-wise
relaxation, and more elasticity than interlock. Simple geometric designs with a four
wale wide repeat composed of every two loops of identical colour, can be achieved
with careful arrangement of yarns.
The interlock structure is the only weft knitted base not normally used for
individual needle selection designs, because of the problems of cylinder and dial
needle collision. However, selection has, in the past, been achieved by using four
feeder courses for each pattern row of interlock, long and short cylinder needles
not selected at the first two feeder courses for colour A being selected at the second
two feeders for colour B. This knitting sequence is not cost effective.
3.3.2 OTTOMAN RIB
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Ottoman is a fabric with a pronounced ribbed or corded effect, often made of

silk or a mixture of cotton and other silk like yarns. It is mostly used for formal dress
and in particular, legal dress (such as QC gowns) and academic dress (mostly
for hoods).
Ottoman made of pure silk is very expensive so artificial silk is used instead
to create a cheaper alternative.
Grosgrain is similar to Ottoman but it is thinner and lighter than Ottoman and
is used mostly for ribbons.
An ottoman is a piece of furniture, a padded, upholstered seat without arms,

often used as a stool or footrest and also known as a hassock or poufs.
A tightly woven plain weave ribbed fabric with a hard slightly blustered
surface. The ribbed effect is created by weaving a finer silk or manufactured warp
yarn with a heavier filler yarn, usually made of cotton, wool, or waste yarn. In the
construction, the heavier filler yarn is completely covered by the warp yarn, thus
creating the ribbed effect. End uses for this fabric include coats, suits, dresses,
upholstery, and draperies.
Silk, rayon, wool or synthetics. Weave: Crosswise rib. Characteristics: Heavy

in weight - larger rib than both faille and bengaline. Very pronounced flat ribs in the
filling direction.
3.3.3 PIN TUCK

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A pin tuck stitch is composed of a held loop, one or more tuck loops and
knitted loops It is produced when a needle holding its loop (T) also receives the new
loop, which becomes a tuck loop because it is not intermeshed through the old loop
but is tucked in behind it on the reverse side of the stitch.
Its side limbs are therefore not restricted at their feet by the head of an old
loop, so they can open outwards towards the two adjoining needle loops formed in
the same course. The tuck loop thus assumes an inverted V or U-shaped
configuration.
The yarn passes from the sinker loops to the head that is intermeshed with the
new loop of a course above it, so that the head of the tuck is on the reverse of the
stitch.
The side limbs of tuck loops thus tend to show through onto the face between
adjacent wales as they pass in front of sinker loops. Tuck stitch structures show a
faint diagonal line effect on their surface.
In analysis, a tuck stitch is identified by the fact that its head is released as a
hump shape immediately the needle loop above it is withdrawn. A knitted loop
would be required to be separately withdrawn and a miss stitch would always be
floating freely on the technical back.
The tuck loop configuration can be produced by two different knitting sequences:
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By commencing knitting on a previously empty needle. As the needle was

previously empty, there will be no loop in the wale to restrict the feet of the first loop
to be knitted and, in fact, even the second loop tends to be wider than normal. The
effect is clearly visible in the starting course of a welt. By introducing rib needles on
a selective basis, an open-work pattern may be produced on a plain knit base.
By holding the old loop and then accumulating one or more new loops in the
needle hook. Each new loop becomes a tuck loop as it and the held loop are
knocked-over together at a later knitting cycle and a new loop is intermeshed with
them. This is the standard method of producing a tuck stitch in weft knitting.
3.3.4 PONTE DI ROMA
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Ponte Roma Jersey (also known as Ponte Di Roma) is a double knit jersey
dress fabric. Made of a combination of polyester, viscose/rayon and spandex, Ponte
Roma fabric looks similar on both sides..
Ponte Roma, otherwise known as Ponte di Roma or Punto di Roma is a

double knit fabric that was first developed in Italy. The name ‘Ponte Roma’ roughly
translates as Roman Bridge – because the structure of the loops resembles classic
roman bridges. Or at least that is the theory, you can see for yourself in the image
below.
A double knit fabric is essentially two layers of fabric knitted together with
two sets of needles. The machines used to create this fabric are often known as
‘double knit’ machines or ‘dial and cylinder knitting machines’.
While it is possible to get home knitting machines, double knit machines are
often designed for creating larger quantities; and as you can see from the image
below the machine itself is quite a large affair.
As the machine whirs away it creates two layers of fabric, so the fine ribs you
often see on one side of a jersey fabric, is actually visible on both sides of this fabric.
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Historically most Ponte Roma’s were plain; however patterns, and especially
stripes, are now becoming more and more popular. It is also worth reading all of the
product description with this type of fabric – no matter how tempting it is to buy just
because the color of it!.
Nowadays it seems that quite a few Ponte Roma’s include elastane to give the
fabric a bit of stretch.
Ponte de Roma is a double knit constructed with interlocking stitches that

connect the front and the back surfaces like a 'Roman bridge.' It originated in Italy,
hence the name and now is a generic term for double knits in a variety of weights,
patterns and prints and comes in a wide array of fibers and the quality can range
from top level to cheap-o.
UNIT-4
4.1 JACQUARD KNITTING
 Jacquards is a n additional attachment to the machine to create an intricate

and complex pattern.
 Origin of the word jacquard applies to weaving.
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 First invented in 1804 by Joseph Marie Jacquard.

 The term was applied to knitting much later when perforated card system
was devised for attachment to V bed flat knitting machines.
 There are no. of mechanisms available were needles are selected to produce
knit in design.
 Many designers make use of the jacquards pattern for the intricate look of the
garment.
4.1.1 JACQUARD KNITTING TECHNIQUE
There are several different knitting techniques that involve stranded or multi-
color knitting. One style, the style least often used in hand-knitting, is the jacquard
knitting technique.
Jacquard knitting is recognizable by its reversibility, either because the fabric

is truly double-sided or because the back side does not show those floats we expect
from stranded knitting. Instead, a project knitted in the jacquard knitting technique
will have a dotted effect on the back side. A true double-sided jacquard knit will
have pattern on both sides and will be double thick. The floats created by the color
switches will be confined to the inside of the finished project. The other characteristic
feature of jacquard knitting is that it involves far more colors than other styles
of stranded knitting. This post shows some classic examples of the jacquard knitting
technique.
Jacquard knitting is most easily done on a machine. Indeed, the technique was
developed by people wanting to knit on a Jacquard loom. On a knitting machine,
you can program a jacquard knitting pattern and use as many colors as you like.
While most stranded knitting focuses on only two colors, the jacquard knitting
technique on a machine can incorporate a variety of colors. Those well-versed in
machine knitting recommend that someone new to jacquard knitting should use pre-
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punched cards, at least until you get the hang of it. (I highly recommend the linked
pamphlet if you really want to try the jacquard knitting technique.)
While true jacquard knitting with its multi-colored work is incredibly difficult
to do by hand, you can do a double-sided, stranded knitting project that is a close
approximation. A double-sided project creates the jacquard knitting look and leaves
you with a reversible fabric with stockinet stitch on either side. With a double-sided
project, you work the two different fabric sides at the same time with all the stitches
on one needle. The stitches will alternate: first you’ll work the stitch for the front side
and then you’ll work the stitch for the back side. If you’re working in stockinet, this
means you are constantly alternating between knit and purl stitches as the stitch for
the side facing you is always knit and the stitch for the side facing away is always
purl.
Some things to keep in mind when trying out jacquard knitting. It’s not
something you can just do for part of a project. Once you want to start a project with
jacquard knitting, you’re committed to maintaining the technique throughout the
project. This is because jacquard knitting is thicker than regular knitting and because
of the way the background colors bleed through to the front side of the project,
almost providing part of the pattern.
Because you’re working with a double-sided fabric, it’s not well-suited to a

chunky or bulky yarn as that will produce a very thick, inflexible fabric.
Jacquard knitting is not for the feint of heart. But if you’re up for it, you can
create a fabulous, colorful piece unlike anything else you’ve ever knitted.
4.2 NEEDLE SELECTION TECHNIQUES JACQUARD KNITTING

MACHINE
A jacquard circular knitting machine includes a cylindrical needle cylinder

provided with a plurality of knitting needles, a patterning mechanism for controlling
the vertical sliding motion of the knitting needles on the knitting cylinder to knit a
jacquard knitted fabric, and a driving mechanism for driving the needle cylinder.
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Usually, the patterning mechanism employs a pin drum or pin drums for
controlling the knitting needles
1. Mechanical jacquard.
2. Electrical jacquard.
4.2.1 MECHANICAL JACQUARD
Generally the Jacquard machines were mechanically processed. The patterns which
required are mechanically introduced in the machine.
MECHANICAL JACQUARD SELECTION SYSTEM
In the past, a variety of mechanical Jacquard selection systems were available on the
market, but today manufacturers privilege only two types of mechanical Jacquard systems,
equipped respectively with-
 Needle sliders or
 Pattern wheels
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The slider selection system is the most commonly used system. Under each needle there
is a slider with 3 butts: a lower butt for needle raising, an upper butt for loop knocking-over and
an intermediate selection butt that can be positioned at different levels.
A selection lever acts on the intermediate selection butt. When the lever is idle
the slider maintains a vertical position and is pushed upward by the raising cams so that the
corresponding needle can assume a working position. When the selection lever is active the slider
is pushed into the guide groove and the corresponding needle assumes a non-knitting position.
The selection lever is controlled externally and each manufacturer has developed its own solution
to control the selection lever
Fig: Mechanical slider selector
MECHANICAL JACQUARD MACHINE KNITTING MECHANISM
1. There are 39 pegs in a peg box. Top 3 are fixed or common butts. Rest 36 for design
(means in a repeat of a course there may be 36 Wales maximum).
2. Each peg controls a single needle.

3. Each peg box makes a single course like a feeder and can produce 36 Wales in a repeat of
course.
4. As cylinder moves anti clockwise, needles get peg of a peg box at the left side first. If no
peg is pressed all needles are active and can produce all knit loops.
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5. If left (peg) is pressed, it press selector and disconnect corresponding needle and forms
miss loop.
6. If only right (peg) is pressed, it press selector and disconnect corresponding needle after
forming a half loop and it forms tuck loop
4.2.2 ELECTRICAL JACQUARD
A jacquard circular knitting machine is disclosed provided with a needle cylinder driving
mechanism capable of optionally and readily controlling the rotary motion of the needle cylinder
according to the pattern to be knitted.
A motor interlocked through gears or the like with the needle cylinder rotates according to a
needle cylinder rotating procedure stored previously in magnetic memory medium. Needle
actuators operate according to a pattern forming procedure stored in another magnetic memory
medium as a signal is provided by a sensor for sensor for detecting the rotary motion of the needle
cylinder. Thus a jacquard circular-knitted fabric having predetermined patterns can be knitted
efficiently.
ELECTRICAL CIRCULAR JACQUARD KNITTING MACHINE KNITTING ELEMENTS:
 Electromagnetic needle selector.

 Spring Jack.
 Jack Cam Box and Jack cam.
 Needle
 Sinker
 Special cam box for electrical circular jacquard.
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ELECTRICAL JACQUARD SELECTION SYSTEM :
The precise definition of this needle selection system for circular knitting
machines is “electromechanical selection with electronic control”, based on the use of piezoelectric
actuators
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If the selection is carried out with a single magnet, when the magnet is
excited, the striker assumes a vertical position thanks to the action of a control spring then reaches
the rising cam and forces the needle in the working position. When the magnet is not excited, the
spring withdraws the striker into the groove in the non-knitting position together with the
corresponding needle
Electromechanical selection with single magnet
The “needle -by- needle” selection allows the knitting of design patterns of almost
unlimited Size since each needle can be independently set in the knit, tuck or miss position. The
electronic Selection is now widely used for the needles of the cylinder, while on several double-bed
knitting Machines, the selection of dial needles is still Carried out mechanically with cams and tracks.
However, many machine manufacturers also offer Electronic dial and cylinder needle selection
systems.
4.2.3 FORMATION OF KNIT LOOP
For every knitting heads the needles stands on the head of the jack and the needle has no
raising cam. So when the jack pushes the needle upwards only then the needle forms a knit loop.
Every jack cam box contains two raising cam side by side.
The left raising cam leads a needle to the clearing position with help of the needle
cam because both raising jack cam are came height of the yarn taking height. For the both raising cam
there are two ENS one for each.
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The spring jack constructed in the way that there is no interruption its butt always follows the
raising cam. So when the magnet remains neutral the raising cam push the jack and jack push the
needle so form the knit loop
4.2.4 FORMATION OF TUCK LOOP
When we need to form a tuck loop no electricity passes through the first ENS so it remains
magnet and attract the jack and jack become detached from the raising cam and the needle keeps it
position in the down.
So no clearing action is happened. But electricity passes through the second ENS which
makes the second ENS neutral and jack moves upward following the raising needle and so needle.
In here needles raises only to the yarn taking height not in the clearing position so the old loop
tucked in the latch and take the new yarn. Following the next knit loop amuck loop is formed.
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4.3 COMPUTERIZED JACQUARD KNITTING MACHINES

Constant adjustment of textile industry drives many enterprises to pay
attention to transformation and upgrade of products. From the second half of 2013,
jacquard trend has got its popularity in textile enterprises of Wooing and its
surrounding cities like Jinxing, Huzhou, Xiaoshan, etc.
They have introduced in advanced computerized jacquard machines to

development of jacquard styles in traditional lining fabrics, apparel fabrics, home
textile fabrics and decorated fabrics. This also promotes sales of computerized
jacquard machines in return.
The most excellent feature of this kind of machines is the possibility of

realizing individuation. This can make products to have a head start in market
competition.
For example, manufacturers used to apply plain cloth to service as lining

fabrics of suitcases in the past. However, the products had to gain market counting
on price advantages due to excess production. At present, some of manufacturers
utilize computerized jacquard machines to produce lining fabric with stereo logos
and other creative pictures. These products not only meet demands of customers,
but also improve the overall quality. Therefore, manufacturers get the freedom to fix
prices again.
Moreover, computerized jacquard machines require high investment and

excellent technical design. Products made by this way have great competitiveness
and also prevent replicas from entering the market. Therefore, it is possible for
medium or small textile enterprises to share market.
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4.3.1 THE RIB MACHINE
Rib machine is a special type of double-sided knitting machine. It has a +1

needle tract ( dial a needle tract , a syringe needle tract ) , ( 2 +2 ) pin channel , ( 2 +4 )
needle tract , and ( 4 +4 ) pin tract . Triangle and use needles and yarn permutations
mutual arrangement, to weave the production of new knitted fabrics.
4.3.2 ORDINARY DOUBLE-SIDED KNITTING MACHINE
Interlock circular knitting machine , also known as common -sided , multi-

functional machine, universal knitting machine, which has a +1 needle tract ( dial a
needle tract , a syringe needle tract ) , ( 2 +2 ) pin channel , ( 2 +4 ) needle tract , and (
4 +4 ) pin tract . Introduction of the new circular knitting enterprises , in order to
produce more varieties , mostly ( 2 +4 ) circular knitting needle tract -based, it is the
use of the triangle and the knitting needles and yarn to each other permutations
arranged to weave production of new knitted fabrics.
4.3.3 TWO-SIDED JACQUARD CIRCULAR KNITTING MACHINE
Double jacquard circular knitting machine with a small and large jacquard two
species.
1. small double jacquard circular knitting machine

2. double jacquard circular knitting machine
4.4 WEFT KNIT STRUCTURES
There are many types of knitted fabrics, which produced by different types
knitted structure. According to the arrangement of loops in their course and Wales,
there are four basic groups of knitted structure . All types of knitted fabrics are
derived from those basic structures.
Name of the knitted structures
1. Plain / single knit structure.

2. Rib structure.
3. Purl knit structure.
4. Interlock structure.
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4.4.1 THE PLAIN KNIT STRUCTURE FABRICS
Plain knit structure is the simplest and most basic structure. It's also called
single knit structure. It's produced by the needles of one set of needle with all the
loops intermeshed in the same direction. We can identify the plain knit structure
fabrics as following properties.
1. The fabric is unbalanced and different appearance on face and back side. V
shapes on face and Arcs on back.
2. Lengthwise extensibility of the fabric is moderate (10-20%). and
widthwise extensibility is high (30-50%) .
3. The fabric extensibility area is moderate to high.
4. The fabric is thicker and warmer than plain woven made from same yarn.
5. The plain knit structure can be easily unraveled from the edge which was
knitted last .Unloving either end.
6. The fabric has tendency to curl.
Notation of Plain Knit Structure
End Uses
Plain knit structures are used for basic T-shirt (men's and ladies), Under
garments, men's vest, ladies hosiery ,fully fashioned knit wear etc.
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4.4.2 RIB STRUCTURES FABRICS
Rib is the second family of knit structures . It's also called double - knit. It's
requires two sets of needles operating in between each other so that wales of face
stitches and Wales of back stitches are knitted on each side of the fabric . We can
identify the Rib structure fabrics as following properties.
1. Same appearance in both sides of rib fabric .Like faces of plain.

2. Lengthwise extensibility of the fabric is moderate and widthwise
extensibility is very high (50-100%).
3. The fabric extensibility area is high.
4. The fabric is much thicker and warmer than plain woven.
5. Rib structures can be unraveled from the edge knitted last. Unloving only
form end knitted last.
6. No tendency to curl.
Notation of Rib Structures
End Uses
Rib structures are uses for--Socks, cuffs, waistbands, collars, men's outerwear,
knitwear, under wear etc.
4.4.3 PURL KNIT STRUCTURES FABRIC
Purl knit structures is the third family of knit structures. As with rib
structures, it's requires the participation of both needle beds for the production of
the loops. We can identify the Purl structures fabric as following properties.
1. Same appearance on both sides. Like back of plain.

2. Lengthwise extensibility is very high and widthwise extensibility is high.
3. The fabric extensibility area is very high.
4. Very much thicker and warmer than plain woven.
5. Unloving either end.
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Notation of purl knit structure
End Uses
Purl structures are uses for---Children's clothing, knitwear, thick and heavy
outerwear etc.
4.4.4 THE INTERLOCK STRUCTURES FABRIC
Interlock is another 1*1 rib variant structure which is produced on specially

designed machines. Those machines possess two sets of needles (short and long
needles) in both cylinder and dial and at least two feeders. We can identify the
interlock structure fabric as following properties.
1. Same appearance on both sides, like face of plain.

2. Lengthwise extensibility is moderate and widthwise extensibility is
moderate.
3. Extensibility area is moderate.
4. Very much thicker and warmer than plain woven.
5. Unloving only from end knitted last.
Notation of interlock structure
End Uses
Interlock structures are use for-- Underwear, shirts, suits, trouser suits,
sportswear, dresses etc.
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4.5 STRIPE YARN PROGRAMMING
On the basis of ordinary single knit machines, the single jersey circular
knitting machine adds 4-color or 6-color striper knitting machine parts and a
microcomputer control system. With diverse arrangement of cams and striper
system, the machine is able to knit all kinds of high-quality single striped fabrics,
such as damask, high-elastic polyester silk, fabrics for swimwear and so on.
THERE ARE TWO TYPE OF YARN DYED FABRIC USED IN KNITWEAR

GARMENTS
1. Feeder Stripe yarn dyed fabric

2. Auto Stripe or Engineering Stripe yarn dyed fabric.
4.5.1 FEEDER STRIPE
Feeder stripe fabric knitting way is different from engineering stripe. And
also dying process is also different from solid color fabric.
Solid color fabric being dye after fabric knitting. But in case of yarn dyed
fabric first need to dye yarn according required color then fabric dye with colored
yarn.
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Feeder Stripe
 Feeder stripe has a small repeating unit approximately 1.9 inch.

 There is no extra device on feeder stripe.
 Production cost is low.
 Productivity is high.
 Feeder stripe is the terminology been used when stripe is manufactured
on regular single jersey M/C
4.5.2 ENGINEERING/AUTO STRIPE
Engineering stripes is a design pattern which is not repeated in the

garment. One big stripe in one garment. The stripe is so big that complete
whole body. The next stripe repeats start with next garment.
The size of the repeat depends on the size of the garment. Usually in
practical use we consider engineering stripe width is more than 1.9 inch or 5
cm & this stripe pattern comes repeatedly in the garment. Actually this is
wrong concept & next time we will not use this term wrongly .
AUTO STRIPE
 Engineering/Auto stripe has large repeating unit.

 There is no limitation in repeating unit.
 There is an extra device named "Finger" that can feed extra thread for
knitting.
 Productivity low.
 Production cost high approximately 7-10 times higher.
 A large derivative in stripe.
 Auto strpe is the fabric knitted on auto stripe M/C specially. the m/c
specially manufacured for knittin bigger stripe repeat
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4.5.3 DIFFERENCE BETWEEN AUTO& FEEDER STRIPE MACHINE
S.NO FEEDER STRIPE AUTO STRIPE

Auto stripe is basically knitted on
Feed stripe is knitted on all simple
1 Computer based circular knitting
circular knitting machines
machines
Feeder Stripes have a small
Auto stripes have larger repeats of
2 repeat of the stripe design, which
the stripes i.e; more than 1.9 inches
generally fits within 1.9 inches
There is an extra device named
There is no extra device on feeder
3 "Finger" that can feed extra thread
stripe
for knitting
Production cost high
4 Production cost is low
approximately 7-10 times higher
5 Productivity is high Low productivity
There is no limitation of stripe
6 Repeat height/width is less than 2"
width/height
Only special machines can do
7 All machines can do this stripe.
this stripe.
8 Lead time not too long long lead time.
9 Feeder stripe is short stripe Auto stripe is large stripe
10 repeat max 1-3/4" Repeat over 1-3/4"
4.5.4 AUT O-STRIPE IS USED FOR
 Auto stripe is the fabric knitted on auto stripe machine. The machine specially
manufactured for knitting bigger stripe repeat. It has an extra device named
"Finger" that can feed extra thread for knitting. It has no limitation of stripe
width/height. It is used to produce variation of design by using finger box.
Usually 4 color and 6 colorfinger box are used.
 Besides when the no. of feeder of machine is less than the required no of
feeder of fabric.
 If a fabric has taken which has 80 white color yarn and 40 blue color yarn in
one repeat. Then it requires total 120 feeders.
 And if the machine die is 30 inch, then no. of feeder will be 30%3:90 where 3 is
multiple factor for single jersey fabric.
 Here, 120>90
 Required Feeder > Machine Feeder.
 I n this case, auto feeder machine is used to produce a fabric.
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4.6 KNITTED FABRIC FAULTS
A defect of the knitted fabric is an abnormality which spoils the aesthetics i.e.
the clean & uniform appearance of the fabric & effects the performance parameters,
like; dimensional stability etc.There are various types of defects which occur in the
Knitted fabrics of all types caused by a variety of reasons.
Faults or defects in knitting production can be caused in different ways and

quite a few of them cannot be related to just one cause. The following explanations
are expected to be helpful in trying to locate the causes of these faults easier.
Reasons of fabric defects:
 Yarn manufacturing defects

 Fabric manufacturing defects
 Fabric processing faults or defects. Such as dyeing faults, printing faults
or finishing faults.
Sources of fabric faults:
The sources of faults could be:
 Faults in yarn and the yarn package

 Yarn feeding and yarn feed regulator
 Machine setting and pattern defects
 Machine maintenance
 Climatic conditions in the knitting plant
4.6.1 LIST OF KNITTING FAULTS FOUND IN KNITTED FABRIC
Knitted fabric faults are very different in nature and appearance and are often
superimposed. The following knitted fabric defects are found in knitted fabric
production.
1. Broken ends, holes or cracks

2. Drop stitch
3. Cloth fall-out or pressed-off stitches
4. Snagging or snags
5. Tuck or double loop or stitches
6. Bunching-up
7. Vertical stripes
8. Horizontal stripes
9. Soil stripes
10. Color fly or color tinges
11. Distorted stitches or deformed or tilted loops
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1. Broken ends, holes or cracks:
Holes are the result of cracks or yarn breakages. During stitch formation the
yarn had already broken in the region of the needle hook. Depending on the knitted
structure, yarn count, machine gauge and course density, the holes have different
sizes. This size can therefore only be estimated if the comparable final appearance of
a comparable fabric is known.
Broken ends, holes or cracks
2. Drop stitches:
These are the result of a defective needle. They also occur when a yarn is not
properly fed during stitch formation, i.e., not properly laid-in the needle hooks.
These are the unlinked knitted loops.
Drop stitch
3. Cloth fall-out or Pressed-off stitches:
It is an area consisting of drop stitches lying side by side. They can occur
either when a yarn is laid-out or when it breaks without any immediate connection.
Cloth fall-out can occur after a drop stitch especially when an empty needle with
closed latch runs into the yarn feeder and removes the yarn out of the hooks of the
following needles.
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Cloth fall-out or Pressed-off stitches
4. Needle marks or Vertical stripes:
Vertical stripes can be observed as longitudinal gaps in the fabric. The space
between adjacent wales is irregular and the closed appearance of the fabric is broken
up in an unsightly manner. Vertical stripes and gaps in the fabric are often the result
of a meager setting, i.e., the yarn count selected is too fine for the machine gauge or
the stitch size (course density) is not correct. Needles are bent, damaged, do not
move uniformly smooth, come from different suppliers or are differently
constructed.
Vertical stripes
5. Horizontal Stripes:
These are caused by unevenness in the courses; they traverse horizontally and
repeat themselves regularly or irregularly.
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Horizontal Stripes
6. Bareness
Bareness defect appears in the knitted fabric in the form of horizontal stripes
of uniform or variable width. Actually barrenness is the periodic lateral irregularities
Bareness
7. Bunching-up or Thick and Thin Places:
Visible knots in the fabric are referred to as bunching up. They appear as
beads and turn up irregularly in the fabric. Can build up resulting in a ‘cloudy’
appearance. More irregular the yarn, more pronounced is the ‘cloudy’ appearance.
Bunching-up
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8. Snagging:
Snags mainly occur while processing filament yarns. The tendency towards
snagging can be reduced by using yarns with a coarser single filament count, lesser
crimp elasticity and higher twist.
Snagging
9. Tuck or Double stitches:
These occur due to badly knitted or non-knitted loops. They are unintentional
tuck loops or floats, also showing up as thick places or small beads in the fabric. At
first instance they may also appear as a shadow when the fabric is observed against
light
10. Soil stripe:
Soil stripes can appear both in the direction of wales as well as courses. Soil
stripes in the direction of the wales are solely caused by the knitting machine. In
most cases they are so called needle stripes; they occur when individual needles
have been replaced or when the working of mechanical or automatic oiling or
greasing devices is defective.
11. Colour Fly:
Colour fly consists of single fibres, bunches of fibres or yarn pieces in varying
colours. It additionally sticks on the yarn or is knitted into the fabric and is very
difficult to remove.
4.7 KNITTED FABRIC CAUSES AND REMEDIES
A defect of the knitted fabric is an abnormality which spoils the aesthetics i.e. the
clean & uniform appearance of the fabric & effects the performance parameters, like;
dimensional stability etc.
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4.7.1 LIST OF KNITTED FABRIC CAUSES AND REMEDIES
There are various types of knitting faults seen during knit fabric manufacturing.
Those are listed in the below:
 Needle line
 Hole
 Oil mark
 Foreign materials/ fly
 Press off
 Thick and thin place
 Missing yarn
 Lycra out/lira drop
 Bare
 Sinker line
1 NEEDLE LINE
Causes:
 Due to defective needle.

 Dirty needle slot.
 Needle too tight or loose in the slot.
 Due to improper lubrication of needles
Remedies:
 Replacing all the defectiveneedles having, bent latches, hooks or

stems.
 Removing the fibers accumulated in, the Needle tricks (grooves).
 Replacing any bent Needles, running tight in the tricks.
 Checking the Needle filling sequence in the Cylinder / Dial grooves
(tricks).
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2 HOLES
Causes:
 Due to badly tied knot.

 Needle break due to slob.
 Due to high tension of yarn.
Remedies:
 Ensuring uniform yarn tension on all the feeders, with a Tension

Meter.
 Rate of yarn feed should be strictly regulated, as per the required
Stitch Length..
 Eyelets & the Yarn Guides, should not have, any fibers, fluff & wax
etc. stuck in them.
 The yarn being used, should have no imperfections, like; Slubs,
Neps & big knots etc
3 OIL MARK
Causes:
 Due to improper lubrication.

 Fibers & fluff accumulated in the needle tricks, which remain
soaked with oil.
Remedies:
 Fibers, accumulated in the needle tricks, cause the oil to seep into
the Fabric.
 Remove all the Needles & the Sinkers of the machine, periodically.
 Cleaning the grooves of the Cylinder & Dial of the machine
thoroughly.
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 Blowing the grooves of the Cylinder, Dial & Sinker ring,

with dry air after cleaning.
4 FOREIGN MATERIALS/ FLY
Causes:
 If foreign materials knit with the yarn.
Remedies:
 Blowing the grooves of the Cylinder, Dial & Sinker ring,

with dry air during cleaning.
5 PRESSES OFF
Causes:
 When all or some of needles on circular knitting fail to function and

the fabric either falls off the machine or design is
completely disrupted or destroyed.
Remedies:
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 Needle detectors, should be set precisely, to detect the closed

needles & prevent the fabric tube from completely pressing off.
 Proper yarn tension should be maintained, on all the feeders.
6 THICK AND THIN PLACE
Causes:
 Uneven tension.
 Uneven courses.
 Count Mix, lot mix.
Remedies:
 Preventing count or lot mixing.

 Maintaining uniform yarn tension.
7 MISSING YARN
Causes:
 Faulty positive feed system.

 Wrong feeder setting.
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Remedies:
 Correcting yarn feeding with proper tension.

 Removing fly from yarn feeding path.
8 LYCRA OUT/LYCRA DROP
Causes:
 Faulty Lycra feeding system

 Lycra Breakage.
Remedies:
 Checking Lycra feeding system.
9 BARRE
Causes:
 Due to variation of loop length

 Count mixing.
 High Yarn Tension
 Package hardness variation
Remedies:
 Ensuring uniform Yarn Tension on all the feeders.
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 Ensuring that the yarn being used for Knitting is of the same Lot no.
 Ensuring that the hardness of, all the yarn packages, is uniform,
using a hardness tester.
10 SINKER LINE
Causes:
 Due to uneven movement of sinker.
Remedies:
 Replace, all the worn out or bent sinkers, causing Sinker lines in the
fabric.
 Sinker lines are very fine & feeble vertical lines, appearing in the
fabric.
 Remove the fibers, clogging the Sinker tricks (Grooves)
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UNIT 5
5.1 FLAT KNITTING
In a flat bed machines both beds are parallel to each other and double hook latch
needle will be used.
Flat knitting machines work with up to four needle carriers which are
opposite one another like a V-shaped roof. As in circular knitting machines, the
movement of the needles is controlled by cams.
The first flat bar machine was demonstrate in 1862 and patented in 1865 by
the Rev. Isaac Wixom Lamb, an American Clergyman. He later changed the
arrangement to the inverted V-bed shape patented by Eisenstuck.
The Flat Bed Knitting machines have horizontal needle beds. They have been
employed mainly in knitting simulated hand-knitted constructions of a specialty
type, such as cable stitch, basket purl and lace patterning. Generally Flat
Bed Knitting Machine use to produce collar and cuff.
Typical application examples are the manufacture of outerwear, such as

pullovers, jackets, vests and accessories like collars, cuffs, caps and also 3D molded
parts for technical applications like upholstery.
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THE FRAME:
 The needle beds

 Concept of machine gauge
 The carriage and yarn guides
 Feeding the yarn
 The take-down device
 Selecting the needles
 Selection of high and low butts
5.1.1 MAIN FEATURES
 Flat knitting machine has two stationary needle beds

 Latch needles are used
 Angular cams of a bi-directional cam system are used.
 The cam system is attached to the underside of a carriage, which with
its selected yarn carriers.
 The carriage traverses in a reciprocating manner across the machine
width
 There is a separate cam system for each needle bed
 The two cam systems are linked together by a bridge, which passes
across from one needle bed to the other.
 Normally machine gauge is 3 to 18 needles per inch and machine
width up to 79 inches.
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5.1.2 ADVANTAGES OF FLAT KNITTING MACHINE
 The flat machine is the most versatile of weft knitting machines, its stitch
potential includes needles election on one or both beds, racked stitches,
needle-out designs, striping, tubular knitting, changes of knitting width
and loop transfer.
 A wide range of yarn counts may be knitted per machine gauge including
a number of ends of yarn in one knitting system, the stitch length range is
wide and there is the possibility of changing the machine gauge.
 The operation and supervision of the machines of the simpler type is
relatively less arduous than for other weft knitting machines.
 The number of garments or panels simultaneously knitted across the
machine is dependent upon its knitting width, yarn carrier arrangement,
yarn path and package accommodation.
5.1.3 PROCESS FLOW CHART OF FLAT BED KNITTING SECTION
The process flowchart of Flat Bed knitting section is as follows:
Sample Collar/Cuff.
↓
Design & Size analysis.
↓
Machine Selection.
↓
Machine Setting for the Required Design.
↓
knitting of the collar/Cuff.
↓
Confirm Required Quality.
↓
Withdraw the Collar/Cuff and Weighting.
↓
Inspection of the Collar/Cuff.
↓
Delivery.
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5.2 YARN PASSAGE DIAGRAM OF A FLAT KNITTING MACHINE
Flat knitting machines characteristically offer efficient patterning and 2D and

3D shaping for smaller scale productivity.
As flat knitting machines require a smaller quantity of yarn and fewer feeders
or cam systems and bobbins, the standard creel may be placed at the upper rear
part of the machine.
The yarn is fed from the bobbins (1) to the checking device (2) and then to
either the left or right side of the machine where yarn tensioners and/or feeders (3)
are situated. This prevents the yarn from coming into collision with the carriage (6)
bow. After the yarn guide returns from the extreme left or right position, a length of
yarn is released.
To permit this change, a yarn length compensator (5) is used. This is typically
a spring-loaded thread eye, which enables the yarn to return and form a loop. This is
not a perfect solution as the tensile force Fy of the yarn fed from this loop is less than
that imparted by the tensioner (3).
5.3 FLAT BED KNITTING MACHINE AND THEIR FUNCTION
Flat Bed Knitting Machine is the most common knitting machine for hobbiests
and boutique producers. It have horizontal needle beds. In previous article, we have
discussed about features of flat bed knitting machine and parts of flat bed knitting
machine. Now we highlighted main parts of flat bed m/c and their identification
and function.
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5.3.1 NEEDLE BED
 The needle bed is a metal plate in which precisely measured slots ( tricks ) are
milled.
 The needles are inserted in these tricks and are forced to slide backwards and
forwards to form the knitting sequence.
 The distance between the tricks and thickness of the needles determine the
thickness of yarn can be processed by the machine.
 There are front and rear bed present in the flat knitting machine.
1. Needle bed – Needles, jack, select jack and selector are arranged on this
needle bed.
2. Carriage rail – Rail for the carriage.
3. Needle selection gauge.
4. Clear brush.
5.3.2 RACKING OF NEEDLE BED
During the process of loop formation, one of the needle beds can be driven
sideways a short distance to change the relative position of the needles is called
racking. It is measured by needle spaces.
Loop transfer can be achieved by racking of needle bed and then transfer the
loop fro more needles another needle (spring loaded needle). It is possible to
produce two separate fabrics simultaneously in a flat knitting machine
We can produce two separate fabrics simultaneously in a V-bed machine.

Keep one set of needles will be stationary for the two courses using one feeder. Then
again for the two courses keep another setoff needles will be stationary using other
different feeder.
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For a 5th and 6th course one set of needles will knit, at the same time other set
of needles will miss the yarn from the first feeder.
For a 7th and 8th course one set of needles will miss (which is knit the yarn
previous two courses) and other set of needles will knit (which is miss the yarn
previous two courses) the yarn from the second feeder.
1. Ball screw unit – converts the revolution of the racking motor to lateral
motion to the needle bed.
2. Main motor – control the carriage.
3. Racking motor – used to rack the needle bed.
4. Oil pump – Supplies oil to brush holder and racking slide plate.
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5.3.3 CAM BOXES
 To activate the needles and force them to slide up and down in the tricks , the
protruding butts are made to follow the cam track
 The cam track of a manually operated knitting machine have three types of
cams
1. Raising cams: The needle butts are forced up ward son contact with
these cams and the needles are driven from their resting position to
perform knitting sequence.
2. Lowering cams: These force the needles butts downward to knock
over and to form loops.
3. Fixed cams :These are used to complete the smooth shape of the cam
track.
5.3.4 CARRIER CONTROL EQUIPMENT
Photo: Schematic Diagram of Carriage Control Equipment.
1. Carrier – Carries the yarns.

2. Carrier stopper – Stop the carriers at both ends of the carrier rails.
3. Carrier rail – Rails for the carriers.
4. Yarn feeder – Feeds yarn to the needle beds gap
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5.4 TRANSFER STITCHES
Needle loop transfer on plain fabric is most commonly achieved on straight

bar frames using specially-shaped, rackably-controlled transfer points .
In designs it is termed a lace stitch whereas in selvedge shaping it is termed

fashioning. When crossing over transfer stitches or narrowing, it is possible to
transfer a loop to the next-but-one adjacent needle.
When the needle loses its loop and is required to knit at the next cycle, it will
form a loop configuration having the appearance of a tuck loop which, when
widening, may require filling-in. Two-needle widening is not practical because an
insecure stitch is produced by two adjacent empty needles re-starting knitting at the
same time.
Loop transfer to adjacent plain wales in rib structures has seldom been
achieved automatically by means of transfer points and, even then, it has tended to
be restricted to the narrowing of collars and sleeves. The method can be
mechanically complex and slow.
5.5 DROP-STITCH
The dropped stitch is a simple pattern that allows you to create a more open
and airy pattern great for light clothes. An easy wrapping technique is all you need to
add a little space to your garment. The pattern creates a stretchy fabric perfect for a
summer drape or cowl.
The drop stitch, or elongated stitch as it's also known, is remarkably easy to
learn. This is a great pattern for knitters looking for a simple but dramatic pattern to
knit while watching TV. It's also an easy stitch to incorporate in many patterns. Using
loose stitches will create larger drops, while tighter ones will result in smaller drops.
Be sure to keep the tension of your stitches consistent for the best effect.
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5.5.1 DROP-STITCH PATTERN
This stitch works on any number of stitches.
Row 1: Knit as usual.
Row 2: Knit each stitch, wrapping the yarn around the needle twice
instead of once when completing the stitch
Row 3: Knit each stitch, dropping the extra wrap off the needle as you
complete each stitch.
5.6 MACHINE PARTS OF FLAT BED KNITTING MACHINE
The different parts of flat bed knitting machine are given as below:
Schematic Diagram of Different Parts of Flat Bed Knitting Machine.
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1. Tension Equipment: Provides tension force for yarn to be fed to the yarn
feeder.
2. Cone Stand Plate: Table on which cone is arranged.
3. Fluorescent Lamp: It is necessary to see the condition of the needle bed gap
and so on during knitting. Turn on and off on the controller screen.
4. Cone Stand: Holds the cone.
5. Signal Lamp: There are three indication lamps are as follows:
 Green lamp------------------------Machine is in operation.

 Blinking Green lamp-------------Machine is stopped by operation.
 Blinking yellow lamp----------Machine is stopped because of error,
or completion of piece.
6. Carriage: Control the motion of the needle.
7. Operation Bar: Actuates and stops the carriage. Also used for clearing
operation errors.
8. Stop Switch: The purpose is to machine in an emergency only.
9. Side Cover: Installed at the both sides of safety cover.
10. Safety Cover: Suppresses the noise and dust.
11. Side Tension Equipment: Pulls the yarn fed to the feeder to create tension
as tension equipment does.
12. Carrier Rail: Used for the carrier to move on.
13. Controller: Loads knitting data for floppy disk and command the machine
to execute the data. Modifying and inputting data are available in controller.
14. Lock Lever: By execute this lever, the sub roller is pressed and comes into
contact with the main roller. Pull the lever toward you to release the sub roller
from the main roller. Press the lever downward to engage the sub roller.
15. Main Power Switch: Cuts off power supply. This switch has emergency
stop function. In case of an emergency, turn this switch off.
16. Oil Pump: Supplies oil to the brush holder and the racking side plate.
17. Breaker Switch: This protects the machine from odd power source to the
turned off automatically. The breaker switch is back side of controller.
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5.6.1 APPLICATIONS FLAT KNITTING MACHINES
Different types of garments that we can knit on flat knitting machines

range from edgings, trimmings and collars to garment panels and integrally
knitted garments. We can efficiently manufacture products like jumpers,
pullovers, cardigans, dresses, suits, trouser suits, hats, scarves as well as many
other accessories on these straight-bar machines. However, for producing
three-dimensional and fashioned products for technical applications, we
require multi-axial flat knitting machines which are under development
Cleaning clothes, three-dimensional and fashioned products for technical

applications, multiracial machines are under development.
5.7 FULLY FASHIONED KNITTING
When it comes to knitwear there are basically two ways that the shape of
the garment can be made. These two processes are commonly referred to as
‘fully fashioned’ and ‘cut and sew’.
You can either combine the different garment pieces by treating the knit
almost like a fabric, whereby you have a large square of knit that you lay the
pattern pieces on and then cut out your pattern pieces and sew them together is
called ‘cut and sew’ or we can do ‘fully fashioned’ knitwear where the individual
pieces are more engineered so that each garment piece is made with no extra
fabric and the pieces are basically knitted together at the seams.
In this case each piece is shaped using techniques specific to knitwear by

using special stitches, making lines of loops shrink and grow depending on
where more length is needed. When you knit by hand this is essentially the
process that you are doing although in commercial production it would be done
by knitting machines.
99
This is an oversimplification of the two processes of course, but in general

fully fashioned knitwear is a more expensive process which has flatter seams.
Also you don’t have to only use only one process per garment. At times you may
want to fully fashion whole sections of the garment and then cut and sew the
pieces together where a knitted seam would not work.
5.7.1 SEAMLESS KNITWEARS
Seamless garment is a type of one-time forming clothes manufactured by

seamless knitting machine. Seamless means no sewing, no seams, and no stitches.
Concept of seamless garment is not new. The seamless technique dates back to the
fourth and fifth centuries AD.
It was then used in the production of socks in Egypt during the Coptic era.
Seamless garments are primarily made from a combination of microfiber yarns, lira,
and cotton. It has wide range of applications including underwear, swimwear,
control-wear, leisurewear, sleepwear, ready to wear, and active wear etc.
The seamless technique has revolutionized the garment sector, and it is now
the new trend in fashion worldwide. At present time, seamless knitting technology is
becoming very popular in western countries, as there are advantages to wearing a
seamless garment. The seamless technique is relatively simple.
The process evolved from cut-and-sew production to fully fashioned

garments to seamless garments. It shortens the manufacturing process and reduces
material wastage, offering greater comfort and better fit to the wearers. Seamless
garments are like a second skin and are comfortable and make very elegant outer
and underwear.
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5.7.2 BENEFITS OF SEAMLESS KNITTING TECHNOLOGY
1. Minimizing or eliminating labor intensive cutting and sewing process

2. Savings in production times and cost
3. Minimal yarn consumption
4. Higher productivity
5. Multi-gauge knitting
6. Lightness and softness
7. No bulky and irritating stitches/seams
8. More constant product quality
9. Better trim ability for finished edge lines
10. Better look, better fit and more comfortable
11. More creative possibilities for knitwear designers
12. Quick-response production for size and pattern changes
13. Just-in-time production
14. Mass customization
5.8 WARP KNITTING

Warp knitted fabric is knitted at a constant continuous width, although it is
possible to knit a large number of narrow width fabrics within a needle bed width,
usually separating them after finishing.
There is considerable potential for changing fabric properties during

the finishing process, as well as during knitting. It is also possible to produce length
sequences such as scarves with fringed ends, articles produced on double needle bar
rashes based on the tubular knitting principle, and scalloped shaping of net designs
by cutting around the outline after finishing.
Fig: Warp Knitting
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5.8.1THE PROPERTIES OF WARP KNITTED STRUCTURES
 Higher production rates than for weaving.

 A wide variety of fabric constructions.
 Large working widths.
 A low stress rate on the yarn that facilitates careful handling of fibers such as
glass, armada and carbon (particularly when using weft-insertion
techniques).
 Conventional warp knitted structures that can be directionally structured.
 Three-dimensional structures that can be knitted on double needle bar
rashes. With weft insertion, unit-axial, bi-axial, multi-axial and composite
structures that can be manufactured on single needle bar rashes.
5.8.2 THE CLOSED LAP

A closed lap is produced when a subsequent underlay shags in the opposite
direction to the preceding overlap, thus lapping the same yarn around the back as well as
around the front of the needle.
Closed Lap
5.8.3 THE OPEN LAP

An open lap is produced either when a subsequent underlay is in the same direction
as the preceding overlap or an underlay is omitted so that the overlap of the next knitting
cycle commences in the needle space where the previous overlap finished. Closed laps are
heavier, more compact, more opaque, and less extensible than open laps produced from the
same yarn at a comparable knitting quality.
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Open Lap
5.9 KNITTING ACTION
The fundamental element of construction of knitted fabrics is the knitting needle.

During yarn feeding, the hook is opened to release the retained old loop and to
receive the new loop which is then enclosed in the hook. The new loop is then drawn
by the hook through the old loop which slides over the outside of the closed hook.
There are mainly three types of needle:
1. Bearded needle,
2. Latch needle,
3. Compound needle
5.9.1 KNITTING ACTION OF TRICOT WARP KNITTING MACHINE
The warp knitting machine is a knitting m/c where the loops are formed in
course wise direction and the fabric produced is in open width form. In Tricot warp
knitting m/c compound needles are used. The warp yarns are feed to the needles
through guide bars using shogging and swinging motion.
M/C specification:
1. Brand: LIBA
2. Origin: W. Germany
3. Manufacturing Company: MASCHINEN FABRIK, NAILA.
4. Manufacturing Year: 1991
5. Width: 84 inch/ 213 cm
6. Type: COP 2K
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KNITTING ACTION:
1. THE REST POSITION: Te needles have risen to 2/3 of their full height from
knock-over and have their hooks towards the back of the m/c. The latch bar is in
downward position and the guides are at the front of the m/c with the sinkers
forward, holding the old overlaps in their throats so that they are maintained in the
correct height on the needle stems.
2. NEEDLE RISE AND GUIDE BAR SWING: With the sinkers forward holding
down the fabric, the hooks and tongues rise, with the hook rising faster, until the
head of the latter is level with the guide holes and is open. The guides then swing
through to the back of the m/c.
3. THE OVERLAP AND RETURN SWING: The guide’s shag for the overlap and
swing to the front of the m/c immediately. The hooks and the tongues start to
descend with the tongues descending more slowly, thus closing the hook.
4. HOOK CLOSING: The hooks and the tongues start to descend with the tongues
descending more slowly, thus closing the hook
5. LANDING: The sinkers start to withdraw as the needles descend so that the old
loop is landed onto the closed hook. Thus the landing is occurred.
6. KNOCK-OVER AND UNDER LAP: The sinkers start to withdraw as the needles
descend so that the old loop is landed onto the closed hook and then knocked over as
it descends below the sinker belly. At this point the under lap occurs before the
needles begin their upward rise and sinker move forward to hold down the fabric.
5.9.2 KNITTING ACTION OF RACHEL WARP KNITTING

MACHINE
Rachel warp knitting machine is the other types of warp knitting
machine used in knitting technology. It has also too much importance as Tricot warp
knitting machine in producing knit fabrics.
In the past, I have presented the main features of tricot warp knitting
machine but now this article has explained the features of Rachel warp knitting
machine.
KNITTING ACTION:
1. Rachel warp knitting machine is normally used latch needles
simultaneously with a wire or blade.
2. Usually their chain links are indicated in even numbers such as 0, 2, 4
etc. generally with 2 links per course.
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3. It has a gauge which is expressed in needles per two inches (5cm) so

that for example a 36 gauge Rachel machine will have 18 needles per
inch (NPI).
4. In Rachel warp knitting machine, Rachel sinkers only perform the
function of holding down the loops whilst the needles rise.
5. The guide bars are threaded, connecting with the middle bars and also
working outwards from the either side of the rocker shaft.
6. In Rachel warp knitting machine, Rachel sinkers are not joined
simultaneously by a lead across their ends nearest to the needle bars so
that they can move away clear of the needles towards the back of the
machine for the rest of the knitting cycle.
7. The needle trick plate verge acts as a fabric support ledge and knock
over the surface.
8. The fabric which is produced by using Rachel warp knitting machine is
drawn downwards from the needles, almost parallel to the needle bar at
an angle of 120°-160° by a series of take-down rollers.
9. Here, the warp beams are arranged above the needle bar and centered
over the rocker shaft, so that the warp sheets pass down to the guide
bars on either side of it.
10. At least four 32” diameter beams or large numbers of small diameter
pattern bars.
11. In case of Rachel warp knitting machine, the guide bars are numbered
from the front of the machine.
12. In Rachel warp knitting machine, the beams are placed above the
machine so that it is approachable at the front for the fabric inspection.
Main Parts of Rachel Warp Knitting Machine:

Different parts of Rachel warp knitting machine have pointed out in the following:
1. Needle,
2. Trick plate,
3. Sinker,
4. Latch guard,
5. Guide & Guide bar.
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5.10 COMPARISON OF TRICOT AND RACHEL MACHINE.
TRICOT WARP KNITTING RASCHEL WARP KNITTING

S.NO
MACHINE MACHINE
In the past, bearded needle Rachel m/c used latch needle
1 was used but now a day’s together with a wire or blade
compound needle used
M/C gauge expressed in M/C gauge expressed in
2 needle per inch needle/inch
Chain link numbering 0, 1, 2, Chain link numbered in even
3 3, ….etc numbers 0, 2, 4, ….etc
4 Three links per course 2 links per course
Function of sinker is holding Sinker performs the function of
5 down, knocking and holding down the loops whilst the
supporting the fabric needle rise
The sinker are joined to each The sinker are not joined together by
6 other at the front and back a lead across their ends nearest to the
needle bar
The sinker never move clear of They can move clear of the needles
7 needles towards the back of the m/c for the
rest of the knitting cycle
The fabric is drawn away The fabric is drawn downwards
towards the batching roller from the needles almost parallel to
8 almost at right angles to the the bar at an angle of 120°-160°
needle bar
The warp beams are The warp beams are arranged above
accommodated in an inclined the needle bar centered over the
9 arc towards the back of the rocker shaft
m/c there the top
The warp sheets pass over the The warp sheets pass down the
10 top of the guide bar rocker guide bar
shaft to their tension
Mechanical attention is carried Mechanical attention is carried out at
11 out at the front of the m/c the back of the m/c
The guide bars are numbered The guide bars are numbered from
12 from the back towards the front of the m/c
front of the m/c
13 High speed production Low speed production
----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
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107
MODEL QUESTION PAPER

FABRIC SCIENCE-II - 17UTF09
COURSE: III B.Sc TFD Time 3 hrs

SEMESTER: VI Total: 75 Marks
SECTION – A 2x 10 = 20 Marks
Answer all Questions
1. What is knitting?
2. Write about warp knitting
3. List the Knitting machine types.
4. Define color reduction.
5. Explain about weft knit.
6. Write about Single jersey knit.
7. What is Jacquard knitting?
8. Define tuck and miss stitch.
9. Write about Flat Knitting.
10. Explain about Open lap and closed lap.
SECTION – B 5 x 5 = 25 Marks
Answer all Questions
11. a) Explain about weaving and knitting. (or)
b) Explain about weft and warp knitting.
12. a) Write short notes about Knitting machine elements (or)
b) Explain about Yarn passage diagram of a circular knitting machine.
13. a) Write about Knitting terms and definitions. (or)
b) Discuss about tuck and miss stitch formation and properties.
14 a) Explain about 1x1 rib, 2x2 rib, Drop needle, Royal rib & Polka rib. (or)
b) Write Brief study on specialty weft knit structures.
15. a) Explain about Mechanical type Flat knitting machine. (or)
b) Write about Racking, Carriage and Cam box arrangement.
108
SECTION - C 3X 10 =30 Marks

Answer any three out of Five Questions
16. Describe in detailed about knitting and Principles of weft and warp knitting.
17. Give a brief about circular Rib & Interlock knitting machine
18. Describe in detailed about their cam and needle order of Plain jersey, Pique,
Thick pique, Honey comb, Pearl and Twill knit.
19. Describe in detailed about Jacquard knitting and Needle selection techniques.
20. Write about the study of computer controlled Flat knitting machine.
109
OBJECTIVE TYPE QUESTION

FABRIC SCIENCE-II -17UTF09
COURSE: III B.Sc TFD SEMESTER: VI
Answer all questions: 1x 10 = 10 Marks

1. What is knitting?
a) Inter looping
b) Inter lacing
c) Bonding
d) Inter mixing
2. How many sets of yarn are used in knitting?
a) One
b) Two
c) Four
d) Six
3. In which knitting, a fabric is produce by single yarn?
a) Weft knitting.
b) Warp knitting
c) Rib knitting
d) All the above
4. Needle individually works in which knitting?
a) Weft knitting m/c.
b) Warp knitting m/c.
c) Rib knitting m/c.
d) Flat knitting m/c.
5. Which is the oldest type of needle?
a) Double-pointed needles
b) single-pointed needle
c) Circular needles
d) Cable needles
110
6. Where the interlock fabrics are used?

a) Under garments clothing.
b) Top of garments clothing
c) Side garments clothing
d) All the above
7. What do you mean by GSM?
a) Gram per square meter.
b) Garment square meter.
c) Gram square meter.
d) None of this
8. What is the GSM range for finer fabrics?
a) Below 150 %
b) Above 150 %
c) 100 %
d) 0 %
9. Which is the only movable cam in the cam box?
a) Stitch cam.
b) Needle cam
c) Control cam
d) All the above
10. What is the basic knitted structure?
a) single jersey or plain
b) honey comb
c) Thick pique
d) Pearl and Twill
111

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FABRIC SCIENCE-II

(For B.Sc. TEXTILE & FASHION DESIGNING SEMESTER – VI )

Subject code: 17UTF09

DEPARTMENT OF TEXTILE & FASHION DESIGNING

SALEM SOWDESWARI COLLEGE

Yarns are weaved or knitted to fabrics. Singular and blending of various

1.1.1 DIFFERENT FABRIC FORMING METHODS

Weaving is essential to a great number of textile cultures, so let's get a little

As we said earlier, weaving itself involves two independent strands of yarn or

 The vertical strand is called the warp

Knitting is a method by which yarn is manipulated to create a textile or fabric,

Knitting creates multiple loops of yarn, called stitches, in a line or tube.

Knitting may be done by hand or by using a machine.

Nonwovens are not made by weaving or knitting and do not require

They are used in numerous applications, including; baby diapers, adult

USES OF NON-WOVEN FABRIC

Nonwovens may be a limited-life, single-use fabric or a very durable fabric.

1.2 DIFFERENCE BETWEEN WEAVING AND KNITTING

Very less or no elasticity. The fabric shows high amount of

Dimensional Good dimensional stability Less dimensional stability.

Durability More durable Less durable than woven Fabrics.

The fabric absorbs less The knitted fabrics absorb more

The fabric provides good It creates problem after wearing for

Air is less permeable due to Air permeability is more due to

woven fabrics are more Knitted fabrics are more resistant

Production cost is more due to Production cost is less due to

TPI of yarn is comparatively TPI of yarn is comparatively lower

Knitting is the construction of the elastic, porous fabric, created by

1.3.1 TYPE OF KNITTING

Knitting is done by set of connected loops from a series of yarn in warp or

In a warp knitted structure each loop in the horizontal direction is made

1.3.2 PRINCIPLES OF WEFT AND WARP KNITTING

WARP KNITTING WEFTKNITTING

2 It is elastic to the length. It is elastic to the width.

Here courses are needed for each pattern

At least one yarn is required for each

Creating fabric by this method is suitable

9 Any design is done easily. All types of design are complex.

It is specially suitable for producing It is specially suitable for producing thin

1.4 KNITTING MACHINES

Knitting is the method of creating fabric by transforming continuous strands

Knitted fabric can be produced by hand or machines. We can denote knitting

The former type of machine incorporates needles which are moved

1.4.1CLASSIFICATION OF KNITTING MACHINES

Knitting machine mainly classified two types.

1. Weft Knitting Machine.

1.5 CIRCULAR KNITTING MACHINE

A circular knitting machine is a device which is used to produce weft knitted

This article is presented a details discussion on circular knitting machine with

Main Parts of Circular Knitting Machine:

Major parts of a circular knitting machine are listed in the following:

1.5.1 TYPES OF CIRCULAR KNITTING MACHINE

1.5.2 PROCESS FLOW CHART OF CIRCULAR KNITTING

Yarn in the form of package

1.5.3 ADVANTAGES OF CIRCULAR KNITTING MACHINE

Some key advantages of circular knitting machine are presented in the

1. Smooth passing of Needles between cylinder and cams.

1.6 ELEMENTS OF KNITTING MACHINE

In knitting, fabric is made by forming loops from yarns coming in parallel