Vermicompost
Vermicompost
Vermicompost
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Made by:
1. B. Ravi Kiran (20025)
2. Kaushik Das (20045)
3.Swapnali Behera (20057)
4.Bhrijesh Mishra(20079)
5. Chinmay Kumar Sahoo(20080)
6. Debolina Sen(20084)
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INTRODUCTION
Vermicompost (vermi-compost) is the product of the decomposition process
using various species of worms, usually red wigglers, white worms, and
other earthworms, to create a mixture of decomposing vegetable or food
waste, bedding materials, and vermicast. This process is
called vermicomposting, while the rearing of worms for this purpose is
called vermiculture.
Vermicast (also called worm castings, worm humus, worm manure,
or worm feces) is the end-product of the breakdown of organic matter by
earthworms. These excreta have been shown to contain reduced levels of
contaminants and a higher saturation of nutrients than the organic
materials before vermicomposting.
Vermicompost contains water-soluble nutrients and is an excellent,
nutrient-rich organic fertilizer and soil conditioner. It is used in gardening
and sustainable, organic farming.
Vermicomposting can also be applied for treatment of sewage. A variation
of the process is vermifiltration (or vermidigestion) which is used to
remove organic matter, pathogens and oxygen
demand from wastewater or directly from blackwater of flush toilets.
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Vermicomposting has gained popularity in both industrial and domestic
settings because, as compared with conventional composting, it provides a
way to treat organic wastes more quickly. In manure composting, it also
generates products that have lower salinity levels.
The composting worms species most often used are Red Wigglers (Eisenia
fetida or Eisenia andrei), though European Nightcrawlers (Eisenia
hortensis, synonym Dendrobaena veneta) and Red Earthworm (Lumbricus
rubellus) could also be used. Red wigglers are recommended by most
vermicomposting experts, as they have some of the best appetites and breed
very quickly.
Containing water-soluble nutrients, vermicompost is a nutrient-rich organic
fertilizer and soil conditioner in a form that is relatively easy for plants to
absorb. Worm castings are sometimes used as an organic fertilizer. Because
the earthworms grind and uniformly mix minerals in simple forms, plants
need only minimal effort to obtain them. The worms' digestive systems
create environments that allow certain species of microbes to thrive to help
create a "living" soil environment for plants. The fraction of soil which has
gone through the digestive tract of earthworms is called the Drilosphere.
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Suitable worm species
All worms make compost but some species are not suitable for this
purpose. Species most often used for composting include:
Eisenia fetida, the red wiggler or tiger worm (Eisenia andrei)
Lumbricus rubellus, does not adapt as well to the shallow compost bin as
does Eisenia fetida
Eisenia hortensis, European nightcrawlers, aka dendrobaenas, dendras,
and nightcrawlers
Eudrilus eugeniae, African Nightcrawlers
Perionyx excavatus, Blueworms may be used in the tropics.
These species commonly are found in organic-rich soils throughout Europe
and North America and live in rotting vegetation, compost,
and manure piles. They may be an invasive species in some areas. As they
are shallow-dwelling and feed on decomposing plant matter in the soil,
they adapt easily to living on food or plant waste in the confines of a worm
bin.
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Suitable worm species
Perionyx excavatus and Lampito mauritii are local and most common
breeds of earthworms used for vermi-composting in South Asian region.
Composting worms are available to order online, from nursery mail-order
suppliers or angling shops where they are sold as bait. They can also be
collected from compost and manure piles. These species are not the same
worms that are found in ordinary soil or on pavement when the soil is
flooded by water.
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LARGE SCALE VERMICOMPOSTING
Such vermicomposting systems need reliable sources of large quantities of
food. Systems presently operating use:
Dairy cow or pig manure
Sewage sludge
Brewery waste
Cotton mill waste
Agricultural waste
Food processing and grocery waste
Cafeteria waste
Grass clippings and wood chips
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SMALL SCALE VERMICOMPOSTING
For vermicomposting at home, a large variety of bins are commercially
available, or a variety of adapted containers may be used. They may be made
of old plastic containers, wood, Styrofoam, or metal containers. The design of
a small bin usually depends on where an individual wishes to store the bin
and how they wish to feed the worms.
Some materials are less desirable than others in worm bin construction.
Metal containers often conduct heat too readily, are prone to rusting, and
may release heavy metals into the vermicompost. Styrofoam containers may
release chemicals into the organic material. Some cedars, yellow cedar,
and redwood contain resinous oils that may harm worms, although western
red cedar has excellent longevity in composting conditions. Hemlock is
another inexpensive and fairly rot-resistant wood species that may be used to
build worm bins.
Bins need holes or mesh for aeration. Some people add a spout or holes in the
bottom for excess liquid to drain into a tray for collection. The most common
materials used are plastic: recycled polyethylene and polypropylene and
wood. Worm compost bins made from plastic are ideal, but require more
drainage than wooden ones because they are non-absorbent. However,
wooden bins will eventually decay and need to be replaced.
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SMALL SCALE VERMICOMPOSTING
Such systems usually use kitchen and garden waste, using "earthworms and
other microorganisms to digest organic wastes, such as kitchen scraps". This
includes:
All fruits and vegetables (including citrus, in limited quantities)
Vegetable and fruit peels and ends
Coffee grounds and filters
Tea bags (even those with high tannin levels)
Grains such as bread, cracker and cereal (including moldy and stale)
Eggshells (rinsed off)
Leaves and grass clippings (not sprayed with pesticides)
Newspapers (most inks used in newspapers are not toxic)
Paper toweling (which has not been used with cleaners or chemicals)
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EFFECT OF CLIMATE ON
VERMICOMPOSTING
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HARVESTING OF VERMICOMPOST
Factors affecting the speed of composting include the climate and
the method of composting.
There are signs to look for to determine whether compost is finished.
The finished compost would have an ambient temperature, dark
color, and be as moist as a damp sponge.
Towards the end of the process, bacteria slow down the rate of
metabolizing food or stop completely. There is the possibility of some
solid organic matter still being present in the compost at this point,
but it could stay in and continue decomposing for the next couple of
years unless removed.
The compost should be allowed to cure after finished to allow acids
to be removed over time so it becomes more neutral, which could
take up to three months and results in the compost being more
consistent in size.
Elevating the maturing compost off the ground can prevent
unwanted plant growth. Compost should consistently be slightly
damp and should be aerated but doesn't need to be turned. The
Curing
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process can be done in a storage bin or on a tarp.
HARVESTING OF VERMICOMPOST
Vermicompost is ready for harvest when it contains few-to-no scraps of
uneaten food or bedding. There are several methods of harvesting from
small-scale systems: "dump and hand sort", "let the worms do the sorting",
"alternate containers" and "divide and dump." These differ on the amount of
time and labor involved and whether the vermicomposter wants to save as
many worms as possible from being trapped in the harvested compost.
The pyramid method of harvesting worm compost is commonly used in small-
scale vermicomposting, and is considered the simplest method for single
layer bins. In this process, compost is separated into large clumps, which is
placed back into composting for further breakdown, and lighter compost, with
which the rest of the process continues. This lighter mix is placed into small
piles on a tarp under the sunlight. The worms instinctively burrow to the
bottom of the pile. After a few minutes, the top of the pyramid is removed
repeatedly, until the worms are again visible. This repeats until the mound is
composed mostly of worms.
When harvesting the compost, it is possible to separate eggs and cocoons and
return them to the bin, thereby ensuring new worms are hatched. Cocoons
are small, lemon-shaped yellowish objects that can usually be seen with the
naked eye. The cocoons can hold up to 20 worms (though 2-3 is most
common). Cocoons can lay dormant for as long as two years if conditions are
not 1conducive for hatching.
PROPERTIES OF VERMICOMPOST
Vermicompost has been shown to be richer in many nutrients than
compost produced by other composting methods. It has also
outperformed a commercial plant medium with nutrients added, but
levels of magnesium required adjustment, as did pH.
However, in one study it has been found that homemade backyard
vermicompost was lower in microbial biomass, soil microbial activity,
and yield of a species of ryegrass than municipal compost.
It is rich in microbial life which converts nutrients already present in
the soil into plant-available forms.
Unlike other compost, worm castings also contain worm mucus which
helps prevent nutrients from washing away with the first watering
and holds moisture better than plain soil.
Increases in the total nitrogen content in vermicompost, an increase
in available nitrogen and phosphorus, as well as the increased
removal of heavy metals from sludge and soil have been
reported. The reduction in the bioavailability of heavy metals has been
observed in a number of studies.
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BENEFITS OF MAKING VERMICOMPOST
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For Plant Growth
Enhances germination, plant growth, and crop yield
It helps in root and plant growth
Enriches soil organisms (adding plant hormones such
as auxins and gibberellic acid)
Economic Benefits
Biowastes conversion reduces waste flow to landfills
Elimination of biowastes from the waste stream reduces contamination
of other recyclables collected in a single bin (a common problem in
communities practicing single-stream recycling)
Creates low-skill jobs at local level
Low capital investment and relatively simple technologies make
vermicomposting practical for less-developed agricultural regions
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USES OF VERMICOMPOST
Soil biological properties
The earthworms, acting as eco-biological engineers, change the properties
of soil that has previously been contaminated with pesticides and reclaim it
producing microbial enrichments and nutrients. Vermiculture heavily
influences nutrient cycling and increases resistance to fungal disease and
crop pathogens.
Through the long-term use of vermicompost, soil fertility is enhanced and
there is a significant reduction to the use and dependency of harmful
chemicals. Even though vermicompost’s nutritional value may vary
depending on the organic waste that is used, its nutritional profile is overall
higher when compared to traditional compost.
Profitability
Vermicompost can be just as profitable for both the manufacturer
as it is to the consumer, in addition to promoting social
responsibility. This compost has proven to have a better benefit-
cost ratio along better net profits, with a feasible financial viability.
It can also increase technical efficiency and productivity in
farming, as well as an enhanced plant growth. Vermiculture also
reduces and eventually eradicates the need of chemical fertilizers
which, in Turkey’s case, continue to increase in cost. As the global
demand for chemical fertilizers has increased, so has its prices all
around the world.
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OPERATION AND MAINTAINENCE
Pest species
Pests such as rodents and flies are attracted by certain materials and
odors, usually from large amounts of kitchen waste, particularly meat.
Eliminating the use of meat or dairy product in a worm bin decreases
the possibility of pests.
Predatory ants can be a problem in African countries.
In warm weather, fruit and vinegar flies breed in the bins if fruit and
vegetable waste is not thoroughly covered with bedding. This problem
can be avoided by thoroughly covering the waste by at least 5
centimetres (2.0 in) of bedding. Maintaining the correct pH (close to
neutral) and water content of the bin (just enough water where
squeezed bedding drips a couple of drops) can help avoid these pests as
well.
Worms escaping
Worms generally stay in the bin, but may try to leave the bin when first
introduced, or often after a rainstorm when outside humidity is
high. Maintaining adequate conditions in the worm bin and putting a
light over the bin when first introducing worms should eliminate this
problem.
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Smells
When closed, a well-maintained bin is odorless; when opened, it
should have little smell—if any smell is present, it is earthy. The
smell may also depend on the type of composted material added to
the bin. An unhealthy worm bin may smell, potentially due to low
oxygen conditions. Worms require gaseous oxygen. Oxygen can be
provided by airholes in the bin, occasional stirring of bin contents,
and removal of some bin contents if they become too deep or too
wet. If decomposition becomes anaerobic from excess wet feedstock
added to the bin, or the layers of food waste have become too deep,
the bin will begin to smell of ammonia.
Moisture
Moisture must be maintained above 50%, as lower moisture content
will not support worm respiration and can increase worm mortality.
Operating moisture-content range should be between 70 and 90%,
with a suggested content of 70-80% for vermicomposting
operations. If decomposition has become anaerobic, to restore
healthy conditions and prevent the worms from dying, excess waste
water must be reduced and the bin returned to a normal moisture
level. To do this, first reduce addition of food scraps with a high
moisture content and second, add fresh, dry bedding such as
shredded newspaper to your bin, mixing it in well.
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Nutrient levels
Commercial vermicomposters test and may amend their products to
produce consistent quality and results. Because the small-scale and
home systems use a varied mix of feedstocks, the nitrogen,
phosphorus, and potassium (NPK) content of the resulting
vermicompost will also be inconsistent. NPK testing may be helpful
before the vermicompost or tea is applied to the garden.
In order to avoid over-fertilization issues, such as nitrogen burn,
vermicompost can be diluted as a tea 50:50 with water, or as a solid
can be mixed in 50:50 with potting soil.
Additionally, the mucous layer created by worms which surrounds
their castings allows for a "time release" effect, meaning not all
nutrients are released at once. This also reduces the risk of burning
the plants, as is common with the use and overuse of commercial
fertilizers.
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PROCESS OF OUR VERMICOMPOST
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Thank you