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Historical Materials from University of Nebraska-
Extension
Lincoln Extension

1973

EC73-455 Sewing Women's Pants and Shorts

Anna Marie Kreifels

Jane Speece

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Kreifels, Anna Marie and Speece, Jane, "EC73-455 Sewing Women's Pants and Shorts" (1973). Historical Materials from University of
Nebraska-Lincoln Extension. 4201.
http://digitalcommons.unl.edu/extensionhist/4201

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 EC 73-455

SEWING
WOMEN'S

PANTS and
SHORTS

Extension work in "Agriculture, Home Economics and subjects

relating thereto ," The Cooperative Extension Service, Institute
of Agriculture and Natural Resources, University of Nebraska- Lincoln,
Cooperating with the Counties and the U.S. Department of Agriculture
Leo E. Lucas, Director
 PANTS MEASUREMENT CHART

Your Ease Amount Pattern Adjustment

measurement allowance* needed measurement (+or -)

1. Waist 1/2" to 1"

2. Crotch length 1 /2" for 35"

(seated) 3/4" for 35"
for 38"
1" to 38"

3. high hip ( inches 1/2" to 1"

below waist)

4. hip ( inches 1" to 2"

below waist)

5. thigh ( inches 1" to 2"

below waist)

6. Knee ( inches 1" to 2"

below waist)

7. Calf ( inches 1"to2"

below waist)

8. side length desired

(waist to floor) length
+hem

9. instep hem width width of

must be pant leg
at least around
equal to hem
this
measurement

10. crotch circumference front:

-- 1" to 2"
(standing) back;
Total:
-- total
measure

*Use the smaller ease allowance for a tighter fit. Ease allowances may be reduced by half when using stretch fabrics.
Prevailing styles will influence additional ease for measurements from thigh to ankle and for length.

2
 SEWING WOMEN'S
Anna Marie Kreifels
PANTS and SHORTS
(Area Extension Agent, Home Economics)
Jane Speece
(Extension Specialist, Oothing)

Pants are found in almost every woman's wardrobe.

There are all sorts of pants-slacks, jeans, shorts-all styled
and named by fashion. Pants are considered appropriate
dress for many occasions and activities.
Sewing pants is not difficult but the finished garment is
sometimes a disappointment because of poor fit. Pants don't
have to bag in the seat, bind at the knees or sag at the waist.
With careful attention to measurements and fit, any woman
can sew pants that feel comfortable and look neat when
worn.
Pants patterns are purchased according to waist
measurement if waist and hips are near average proportion.
Check the measurement chart on the pattern envelope. Buy
a pattern to fit the hip measurement if the hips are large in
proportion to the waist. Altering the waist is easier than
making alterations at the hipline.
Fabrics which are pliable and have some "give," or a
slight degree of stretch, are preferred for women's pants.
Curved seams and darts are easier to press in these fabrics.
Stiff, firm and hard finish fabrics are difficult to handle.

TAKING PERSONAL MEASUREMENTS

Accurate measurements are important. Figures with

identical waist and hip sizes may require different lengths in
the legs, the crotch, or the darts, due to variations in body
contour and proportion. Measure over a girdle if you
naomally wear one with pants. Have someone else take your
measurements if possible. Record them on the Pants
Measurement Chart.
Ease allowances permit body movement when a garment
is worn. Because patterns are designed with ease, the pieces 4. Thigh. Measure around the fullest part.
will measure slightly larger than body measurements. 5. Knee. Mseasure around the center of the kneecap.
Standard ease allowances given on the Pants Measurement 6. Calf. Measure around the fullest part.
Chart should be added to the body measurements before 7. Side length. Measure the distance from waistline to
comparing with pattern measurements. floor for reference. Pant length will vary according to heel
For a closer fit, use the smaller ease allowance; for an height to be worn.
easy fit, use the greater allowance. Ease allowances can be 8. Crotch length (seated). Sit on a flat, hard chair or
reduced about one half for stretch fabrics. table. Measure from cord at waistline over the hip to the
chair.
Where To Measure 9. Instep. Measure around the heel and over the instep.
The finished heel width of the pant leg must be at least
1. Waistline. Tie a string or cord around the waist to equal to this measurement or the foot will not go through.
establish the exact waistline. Take a snug, but not tight, 10. Crotch circumference (standing). Stand in a normal
waist measurement. Leave cord tied until measurements are position and measure between the legs from waistline at
finished. Center Front to waistline at Center Back. Divide the total
2. High hip. Measure across the top of the hipbones, 2 measure into front and back measures. The front will be
to 4 inches below waistline. measured from the waistline to the inner thigh or point
3. Hip. Measure around the fullest part of the hip. This where the inseam would fall. Subtract the front
may vary depending upon body contour. measurement from the total to get the back measurement.

3
 MEASURING THE PATTERN Once the crotch line is established, draw and laeel other
measurements on the pattern (Fig.2). Be sure to measure
Major alterations should be made before the garment is down the same number of inches from the waist on the
cut, therefore, pattern pieces shou ld be measured at points pattern as you measured on yourself. Use a T-square or
corresponding to where body measurements were taken. Do L-square to be sure lines are at right angles to the straight of
not measure across darts and stitching lines of seams. g-ain.
Compare pattern and body measurements, calculating
and recording necessary alterations. A " minus" alteration
will ind icate the pattern must be made smaller; a "plus" Fig. 2
means the pattern needs to be enlarged . Before starting any
Draw and label
alterations, complete t he measurement comparisons and lines on pattern
extend straight of grain lines the full length of all pattern where measurements
are taken.
pieces.
Lin es should be drawn and labeled on the pattern the
same distance below the waist as the personal measurement
was taken. Be sure t o draw the lines at right angles to the
straight of grain line and extend them the width of the
pattern .
Yo u may find it helpful to enter both the pattern finished
side
measurement and yo ur needed measurement on each line . length
Compa risons and alterations will go more quickly.
The crotch length should be established before the other
lines are drawn on the pattern. To compare crotch length
draw a Iine extendi ng across the pattern front from the
lower end of the crotch curve to the side seam, at right
angles to the straight of grain. (Fig. 1 ). Crotch length is then
measured from the waistl ine seam over the hip to the crotch
line. Occasionally the crotch line is printed on the back
pattern piece. If it is, you may prefer to work with the back
pattern piece.

Crotch Length
Alteration
.,••.
I

t
The crotch circumference will be the final pattern
measurement taken. It will a iso be the last alteration made if
needed.
crotch lengt h
Stand the tape measure on edge to measure front and
back crotch seams. Add together for total crotch seam
crotch line measurement (Fig.3) .

Fig. 1

To _shorten the crotch, fold the excess length into a tuck

from Side seam to center seam. Length is added by slashing
across the pattern and spreading it to add the required
amount. Place the tuck o r slash below the points of the darts
meas~ing
and above the crotch line. Alt er both front and back
crotch
patterns the same way. circumference
 MAKING ALTERATIONS Now analyze the body contour. If hips curve more than
average, add a slight amount to the curve at the front and
Waistline: Waistline alterations of 1 inch or less may be back side seams. If hips are very straight, decrease the curve
made at the side seams. Divide the total amount of "plus" or at the side seams. Taper these alterations to the original line
"minus" by 4 (the number of seam edges). Then add or at the waist and slightly below the crotch.
remove this amount at each side seam, tapering the new If the abdomen protrudes more than average make a
seam to the original seam line at the hip. If more than 1 inch slight addition only to the front side seams. In case of a
alteration is needed, either increase or decrease the width of prominent derriere and a flat abdomen, add a small amount
darts and center front and back seams. An alteration up to ~ to back side seams, but not to the front. Try to make
inch may be made on each dart and center seam without allowances as needed by body contours (Fig. 5).
affecting the original garment design. Remember, too, a Fig. 5
slight excess at the waist can be "eased in" when the
waistband is attached. Alteration for strai!tJt
or full hips
High hip and Hipline: Most hip alterations are made on a
vertical line parallel to the straight of grain. Slash and spread
the pattern to increase the hip measurement; to decrease,
take a tuck in the pattern. Either alteration should extend
the entire length of the pattern. Usually half the required
alteration is made on the front and half on the back (Fig. 4).

Fig. 4

DecrlliiSe curve for

straight hip for

Thigh and Legs: For heavier or thinner than average

thighs, width must be either added to or taken from the
front and back inside leg seams near the crotch. Taper
alterations to the original seam line above the knee. Be sure
to allow ample ease (Fig. 6).

Fig. 6

5
 Knee, Calf and Instep: Alterations may be made by Crotch Seam. Poor fit in the seat of the pants can be
adding to or taking in the side seams and inside leg seams caused by a too short or too long crotch seam. The figure
below the crotch curve and above the hem. Equal alterations with a flat derriere or a swayback is likely to experience a
must be made on all seam edges to keep the crease lines in baggy seat problem. The individual with a prominent
the center of the knee. Carefully retain the gradual slope of derrierre may find the seat of the pants pulling.
the leg seam lines (Fig. 7) . "Smiles," or curved folds, may also occur in the front of
the pants. A protruding abdomen, a too short crotch seam
or a curve not fitted to the individual may be the cause.
Length may be added or decreased in the front, back or
Fig. 7 both center crotch seams to improve the fit of the pants.
Alterations may be made at any one, two or all four places:
waistline, high hip, hipline or crotchline. Usually the
alterations are made at the crotchline or hipline. Some
individuals may , however, get a better fit by dividing the
amount to add or deduct and spreading it through several of
the alteration points. Analyze your own figure to see just
where you need to increase or decrease.
To alter the pattern at the hipline or high hip, slash
across from the center seam up to but not through the side
seam. Overlap to decrease length. Spread to increase length.
Redraw the curve to straighten or to make the lines true.
To increase or decrease at the crotch line, redraw the
new line, tapering gradually toward the knee. To add or
decrease length at the wa istline, make the change at the
center waistline. Follow the curve of the waist until the new
waistline meets the original one at the sideseam (Fig . 8).

I
I
I
I Fig. 8
I
I
I
I
I Slash and spread
I
I
to lengthen
I crotch seam

Make equal additions or decreases to

back and front

Finished Side Length: Alterations in side length are best

made in the lower leg area , below the knee. To add length
slash across the pattern and spread ; tuck the pattern to
decrease length. After adjusting length recheck the pattern
width at the knee, calf and instep to assure adequate ease.
Current styles will be your guide to the length of the
pants. Do not forget to allow for the height of heel on the
shoes you will be wearing with the pants.
The width of pant legs is determined by fashion trends.
The wider pants legs look neater on the figure with heavy
thighs and knees and are more comfortable to wear.
Good proportion results if the width of the lower pants
leg is about the same as the measurement at the knee. The
hem width must be at least equal to the instep measurement
to allow t he foot to slip through. crotch seam alterations

6
 MAKE A BASIC PATTERN

In working out a well-fitting pants pattern, use a pair of

pants with a waistband and a placket. Compare the waistline Fig. 9
and darts with a well-fitting basic skirt pattern. From the
waistline through the hipline, the two will fit the same.
Alterations are also made the same way from the waist
through the hipline on the pants as on the skirt.
I I
II
II
II
.'.'•'
•

~
'
''
,,
'

,.
t

Try the basic pattern in musline or an inexpensive fabric ' l

for a trial fit. Any additional adjustments then can be made

and transferred to the pattern. Cut an extra seam allowance
on the first pair so that you may make needed adjustments.

thigh

''
'
I \
I \
\
\
\
II
I I
I \ \ I I
I \ I I
II ...,--
' -.,
I
~ - - ---J
I \
I knee
I
1 I
Baste the pants together on the original seam lines. Use I I ' 1
twill tape instead of the waistband to see better where the
waistline of the pants fall on your figure. Sit and stand in
I
l! \I
~ - - - - - - I calf
the pants to check the fit. A 1/ \I
t
Once you have a well-fitting basic pattern, you can make
your own adjustments for style (Fig. 9). Changes for leg I
/I
I
II
I 1
,,
~
~
I \ I I I \
width should be made on each of the four seams. Add an I I I \
I I
I' \\
I I
equal amount to each seam. I I I
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/ I _ L_} /___.!_ __ \
--- ·L--
Make your own style changes

Fig. 10

I I
~ I

hip huggers ~---~-

\,
I I

II
--
•
Adjustments for elastic waists or hip huggers can also be
made from the master pattern. Straighten the hipline and
add an allowance for elastic and a seam turnover or casing to
the top of the waistline. Darts should be decreased in size or
omitted. Check to be sure that the waist is wide enough to
be pulled up over the hips.
The hipline of the hip huggers follows the curve of the
waistline about 2" to 3" below the waistline. Darts may
need to be lengthened to hold the pants close to the hips
Fig. 10).

Change the waistline

7
 HINTS FOR BETTER FIT Reinforce the crotch curves with a second row of
stitching very near the first stitching. Remember to stretch
Mark, press or "set" the front crease lines in the pant the back crotch curve as you stitch. For additional
legs before starting to sew. Crease lines should be on straight reinforcement a narrow piece ('!.. inch wide) of twill tape,
of grain and should fall midway between the inside leg seam seam tape or selvage may be stitched into the curved crotch
and the side seam. seam (Fig. 12).
Contour of the calf of the leg can cause pant legs to pull
toward the back, forcing the hems against the shins and
causing baggy knees. A stretching and pressing technique
before leg seams are stitched can help prevent these
problems.
Starting about 3 inches above the knee line stretch the
side and inside leg seams of the pant fronts only. Stop
stretching about 3 inches above the hem. Stretch until'!.. to
Y, inch length is added to the seam edges. Fold and press the
crease lines, swinging the seam edges slightly toward the
front. Trim the excess '!.. to Y, inch from the pant fronts,
taking an even amount all the way across the lower edge.
When fronts and backs are stitched together this shaping
process will cause hems to hang with equal distribution of
width toward the front and back of the legs (Fig. 11 ).

Fig. 11

' Stretching seams of

''
I I
pant fronts
'i
reinforce crotch curve

Center front and back seams may be pressed open from

front the waist to the notches above the crotch curve. At the
.,.. notches clip through the seam allowances almost to the
m stitching line. Below this point trim the curved seam to
u about 3/8 inch; overcast, zigzag or stitch the trimmed edges
together. The curved crotch seam will tend to "stand up"
when pants are worn, so it need not be pressed flat.
Put in zippers, waistbands, hems and closures as directed
on the pattern guide.

THE FINAL PRESS

Pressing the finished pants will be easier if front creases

were set before you started sewing. The front creases will
stop just below the waist darts. They may be edge-stitched
to form permanent crease lines in fabrics which do not hold
Darts permit flat fabric to fit over the curves. Darts a sharp crease.
should be altered in length, depth and position to fit The position of the front creases will serve as a guide for
smoothly over body curves. Stitch darts to sharp points and setting the back creases. Back creases stop at the crotch ;
press as shown on the pattern guide. they are seldon edge-stitched. Use heat, moisture and a
Stitch the leg seams and press open before stitching the pounding block to form sharp creases.
crotch seams. Pants fit better if the crotch seam crosses the Darts and seams pressed during the construction process
leg seam. will need only touch-up pressing when pants are finished.

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