Lyrica Essex

Department of Ancient Indian History, Culrure and Archaeology

Uid- 171325,Roll no- 10

A.AIC.0606

Perfumery in Ancient India

The word perfume is used today to describe scented mixtures and is derived from the Latin
word, "per fumus," which means “through smoke”. The word Perfumery refers to the art of
making perfumes. Perfume was further refined by the Romans, the Persians and the Arabs.
Although perfume and perfumery also existed in East Asia, much of its fragrances were
incense based.

In India perfumes and scented articles are extensively used in day to day life. From the fields
of religion, medicine, at various customs and traditions at different events performance arts,
etc. perfumes and scented articles play a very important and crucial role. As for India,
perfumes and scented articles were in use from pre Vedic and Vedic periods ( c. 1500 – c.
500 BCE), for religious practices, social customs, and domestic rituals and later gradually
became part and parcel of human life. Perfumes were also used in cosmetics and beauty aids
to enhance the fragrance of items/ products used. Medicinal values of many perfumes were
well known to ancient Indians and were used in both rituals as well as to treat diseases.
Medicated fumigation (dhupan) was an advanced method for medicinal purposes. Medicated
oils, collyriums, powders were prepared from perfumes used externally in many diseases.
Perfumes were also anointed in various body parts (Anulepan). Chewing betel leaves along
with fragrant material like nutmeg, mace, etc. (Tambulam) was used with a view to rendering
mouth clean and fragrant usage of scented oils to massage body (Abhyanga) which keeps the
skin smooth, healthy and invigorating; Udvartanam, massaging various body parts;
Udgarshanam, scrubbing; Utsadanam rubbing with scented powders etc., were some of the
health protective and disease eliminating procedures. Scented drugs and perfumes enhance
the quality, activity and pleasantness of these processes.
The use of perfumes and or scented articles has generally been carried down from generation
to generation. But one also finds mentions of various techniques of production, usage and
recipes of perfumes in Indian literary texts. One of the earliest distillation of Ittar was
mentioned in the Hindu Ayurvedic text Charaka Samhita and Sushruta Samhita.1

We shall now have a look at the various mentions of perfumes in ancient Indian texts.

Vedas

The Vedas are generally admitted to be the source of Indian philosophical thought, religious
practices, social customs, professions and functions of different social classes. In short Vedas
are considered as almost all spiritual and secular conventions, observations and pursuits.
Varied usages of perfumes along with individual beautification and medicinal purposes can
be seen in Vedic literatures.

Rigveda

In Rigveda collyrium (Anjana), perfumed unguents (Punya gandha or Surabhi), beautiful

garments and flower garlands (Suvasah) were mentioned. The word Punya gandha was also
mentioned in Atharvaveda.

Striyo yah punyagandhastah sarvah svapayaamsi- R.V. VII.55.8, A.V.IV.5.3;

In Rigveda (R.V.X.18.7), un-widowed dames were advised to use kohl and unguent to
become free from sorrow. In Atharvaveda Kushta (Saussurea lappa C.B. Clarke - a scented
rhizome) was mentioned in many hymns as an important drug to relieve many diseases and to
provide eternal life.

1 A.K. Sharma; Seema Wahad; Raśmī Śrīvāstava (2010). Agriculture Diversification:

Problems and Perspectives. I. K. International Pvt Ltd. p. 140.
In excavations in Mohenjadaro revealed items, which support the use of powders and
perfumes after the bath. Excavations and studies on many ancient literatures proved prevalent
use of cosmetics and perfumes in all strata of society.2 3

Valmiki Ramayana

Dasaratha’s (the king of Ayodhya) dead body was kept in a special taila droni (a wooden tub
filled with oil processed in medicines and aromatics) to protect the body from decay
(Ramayan, 11.70.16-17); In cremation of Dasaratha’s dead body, Candana (Sandal wood),
Sarala (Pinus roxberghii Sarg), Padmaka (Prunus cerasoides D.Don), Agaru (Aquilaria
agallocha Roxb.), Devadaru (Cedrus deodara (Roxb.) Loud) etc. were used. Sandal paste was
used to anoint the body. It was described that when Bharata went to the forest with his army
to see his brother Rama, the path was perfumed with sandal water and flowers In another
reference, during nights when the king Ravana desired to see Seetadevi, the paths were lit
with many lamps filled with perfumed oils. Many other scattered references of the use of
perfumed water, scented waters, scented oils, scented powders and other cosmetics can be
observed in Valmiki Ramayana.

Mahabharata

In Mahabharata 3 types of Dhupas (incense) were mentioned.

1. Dhupa (fumes) by burning Niryasa (aromatic resin exudation from trees) like Guggulu
(Commiphora mukul (Hook ex stocks) Engl), Shallaki (Boswellia serrata Roxb.) etc. is
considered as dearer to Gods and Godesses.

2 Gangadhara & unknown Authors. “Gandhasara and Gandavada”, edited by Ramakrishna Tulzaram Vyas,
published by Oriental Institute, Vadodara(1989)

3 Lefman (Ed.) “Lalitavistara” pp178-179 Royal Asiatic society, Calcutta (1877).

2. Dhupa by burning of leaves of trees like Sara (Pinus roxberghi Sarg), Agaru (Aquilaria
agallocha Roxb), Shallaki (Boswellia serrata Roxb) etc. is dearer to Yakshas and Rakshasas.

3. Kritrima (artificial) Dhupa produced from fermented substances like Molasses etc. is
dearer to Daanavas, (demons) Bhutas (ethereal beings) and men. ( M.B. XIV.49.41-42)

During these periods lamps were filled with perfumed oils; fragrant powders were used for
face and body; bed sheets were variegated and scented; arrows and weapons were worshiped
by applying sandal paste and decorating with flower garlands. (M.B. VI.93.70; VIII.8.16;
XIII.57.40; VII.121.31)

Budddistic and Pre Buddistic literatures

In pre Buddistic period, people were trained in 64 arts. Gandhayukti (The art of blending
perfumes) is one among them. Lalitavistara mentioned that the young Bodhisatva had
excelled in 64 arts.4 Sikkhapadas of Khuddaka Pada contain few restrictions for Buddistic
monks. The monks are prohibited from use of pomade (Perfume oil), perfumes and anointing
the body.

Vatsayana Kamasutra (1st Adhikarana, 3rd Adhyaya)

Vatsayan kamasutra states that both male and female should learn 64 arts. Gandhayukti (the
technique of making perfumes) is one among them.5 It also mentions the various fragrances
and its application as well as the different effects it has between tow individuals during the
process of making love. The detailed explanation also includes illustrations of how and
where the various scents are to be placed for maximum gain.

4 Bikkhu, J. Kashyap pp4 “Khuddakanikaaya” vol. I , Pali publication board, Bihar government (1959).
5 Vatsayana “Vatsayan Kamasutra” Telugu translation and publication by Panchangnula Adinarayans shastri,
Parasu Vakam, Veperi post, Madras (1930).
Kautilya Arthashastra6

Arthashastra has the descriptions of many fragrant drugs, which were used as cosmetics like
Sandalwood, Agaru (Aquilaria agallocha) and Taila Parnika (Eucalyptus?) (Book-II, Chapter-
XI.). Candana (Sandalwood) was used as Anulepana (external application) and as beauty aid
and fragrant material. Qualities of Sandalwood were mentioned as light, soft, moist (Asyana,
not dry) as greasy as ghee, pleasant smell, adhesive to the skin, absorptive of heat, and
comfortable to the skin. Various types of Sandal wood were mentioned. Satana is red and
smells like the earth, Gosirshaka is dark red and smells like fish; Harichandana is of the color
of the feathers of the parrot and smells like tamarind or mango.

Agaru was said as heavy, soft, greasy, smells far and long, burns slowly, gives out continuous
smoke while burning, is of uniform smell, absorbs heat, and is so adhesive to the skin as not
to be removable by rubbing; Its types were mentioned as Jongaka which is black or
variegated black and is possessed of variegated spots, Dongaka is black and Parasamudraka is
of variegated color and smells like cuscus or like Navamalika (jasminum).

Vishnu Dharmottara Purana (450-650 A.D)7

Sixty fourth chapter of 2nd Khanda of Vishnu Dharmottara Purana has the chapter
Gandhayukti, in which 8 phases in manufacturing perfumes were described. They are 1.
Sodhanam, 2. Vaasanam, 3. Virechanam, 4. Bhaavanam, 5. Paaka, 6. Bhodanam,7. Dhupana
and 8. Vaasana. Gandhataila, Gandhajala, Dhupa, Varnakara dravya, Mukhavaasas and karna
patra were also described

6 Kautilya. “Kautilya’s Arthasastra” translated by Maha Mahopadyaya R.Shama Sastry, eighth edition,
published by Mysore printing and publishing house (1967).
7 Khumaray Shrikrishnadas (Ed.) “Shree Vishnu Darmottara purana” Vol.I pp220-221, Shri Venkateswara steam
press, Nagpublications (1985).
Manasollasa of King Someswara (1130 A.D)8

Twenty types of royal enjoyments were mentioned in this text. Among them perfumes and
scented articles were used in Snaana bhogah (enjoyment of bath), Tambula bhogah
(enjoyment of betel leaf chewing), Vilepana bhogah (enjoyment of anointing the body),
Maalyopabhogah (enjoyment of flower garlanding) and Dhupa bhogah (enjoyment of
incense).

Snaanabhogah

Sesame oil scented with flowers of Ketaki (Pandanus odoratissimus Roxb.), Jati (Jasminum
officinale Linn.), Punnaga (Calophyllum inophyllum Linn.) and Campaka (Michelia
champaka Linn.) was used for Abhyanga (oil massage). After oil massage Udvartana
(massage or rubbing the oily body with dry powder in the opposite direction of hair follicle)
was indicated with scented and medicated powder prepared from the roots of Kushtham
(Saussurea lappa C.B. Clarke)

Scented hair oil

Hair oil having the perfume of Champaka (Michelia champaka Linn) flower is made by
mixing together the powder of Manjishtha (Rubia cordifolia Linn.), Vyagranakha (scented
shell of sea animal), Nakha (shell of Helix aspera), Kushta (Saussurea lappa C.B. Clarke) etc.
along with sesame oil and sun heated.

Ayurvedic Literatures9

Many of the scented drugs, those used in contemporary literatures, were also mentioned in
ancient Ayurvedic texts. In Caraka samhita, Susruta samhita, Ashtanga hridaya, Ashtanga
sangraha etc., many scented drugs and perfumes were used for improving the complexion and

8 King Bhulokamallu Someswara. “Manasollasa” edited by Shri Gondekar vol.II, oriental Institute, Baroda
(1969).
9 Susruta. “Susruta samhita”, commetry by Kaviraja Ambikadatta Shastri 3rd edition, published by Chowkamba
Sanskrit series, Varanasi (1972).
as deodorant. These were used as ingredients in the preparation of oils, powders, collyriums,
tablets (Vatis), Vartis (sticks) etc. Sugandha tailas (scented oils) were used to anoint body in
many skin diseases. Dhupas (incenses) were used for disinfecting the body or the room.
Various scented powders were used for Udvartanam (massage with dry powder in the
opposite direction of hair follicle). Sugandha Paniya (Scented waters) were used for Pariseka
(sprinkling of medicated liquid over body surface).

Peculiar descriptions regarding perfumes and scented articles in ancient literatures

Sarangadhara samhita mentioned that by drinking the fragrant waters with Sandalwood,
Cardamomum, Usira (Vetiveria zizanioides (Linn) Nash) and Tagara (Valeriana wallichii
DC.) one’s body becomes redolent. Drugs which give the body the smell of Campaka
(Michelia champaka Linn) flowers; incense that destroys reptiles, mice, bugs and lice in the
house were also described. In this text preparation of various incenses dearer to gods and
kings were described.10

Conclusion:

One needs to understand the different node of fragrances while selecting perfumes. Different
people have different natural odours, and hence not every fragrance is suitable to everyone.
At the same time, various fragrances and aromas are paired with different time of the day,
moods and even seasons. While method of applying perfumes is and can be considered an art,
one needs to learn where the different points on the body where different perfumes have
different effects on the mood and thought. I remember my mother telling me to always apply
this particular perfume behind my ears, as it would help me concentrate better while studying.
My grandmother would also tell me to apply perfume on my navel every time I had a
stomach upset, which surprisingly would always help!

Traditional use of perfumes, scented oils, garlands, incenses has also been restricted to
marriages, festivals and other annual ceremonies. Healthy scented oil massage, scented water
baths and other rituals have been replaced by artificial and hazardous perfumes. Being a
country with enormous heritage and knowledge to cultivate many scented drugs like saffron,

10 Sarangadaracharya. “Sarangadharsamhita”, English translation by P.Himasagara chandhra Murthy, 1st

edition published by Chowkamba Sanskrit series, Varanasi (2001).
Sandal wood, Camphor etc. necessary steps should be under taken by the scientific fraternity
to develop the perfumes and scented drugs.

Over the last few years, western countries have come to the extensive use of fragrant oils and
ittars. Various companies are making huge profits and selling diffusers that help spread a
pleasant fragrance in the homes. Incense sticks were initially used in religious alters in Indian
homes but are now gaining popularity abroad too. Some of the famous fragrances include
lavender, vanilla, butterscotch, musk, apple-cinnamon, mint, peppermint, tea tree, rose, etc.
on the side of fragrance oils and incense sticks, fragrant candles too have gained popularity
over the years and are available in over 500 different scents.

It is not an exaggeration, that in olden days use of perfumes and scents was very prevalent to
maintain mental, psychological and physical health. But the current generation is very much
exposed to synthetic, spurious perfumes causing ill health. Many of the fragrant substances
like Saffron, Musk, Sandal wood and Camphor etc. are on the brink of extinction and have
become very expensive.
Bibliography

● A.K. Sharma; Seema Wahad; Raśmī Śrīvāstava (2010). Agriculture Diversification:

Problems and Perspectives. I. K. International Pvt Ltd. p. 140.
● Amrita Chattopadhyay, Technologies of Perfumery in India: Overview and the Case
of Kannauj, Published on: 28 April 2018, Amrita Chattopadhyay.
● Bikkhu, J. Kashyap pp4 “Khuddakanikaaya” vol. I , Pali publication board, Bihar
government (1959).

● Gangadhara & unknown Authors. “Gandhasara and Gandavada”, edited by

Ramakrishna Tulzaram Vyas, published by Oriental Institute, Vadodara(1989)
● Historical perspective on the usage of perfumes and scented Articles in ancient Indian
literatures, Dr Goli Penchala Prasad, G. Penchala Pratap, M. Neelima, Vd. Pammi
Satyanrayanashastry,. Ancient Science of Life, Vol. 28, No. 2(2008) Pages 33-39
● Kautilya. “Kautilya’s Arthasastra” translated by Maha Mahopadyaya R.Shama Sastry,
eighth edition, published by Mysore printing and publishing house (1967).

● Khumaray Shrikrishnadas (Ed.) “Shree Vishnu Darmottara purana” Vol.I pp220-221,

Shri Venkateswara steam press, Nagpublications (1985).

● King Bhulokamallu Someswara. “Manasollasa” edited by Shri Gondekar vol.II,

oriental Institute, Baroda (1969).

● Lefman (Ed.) “Lalitavistara” pp178-179 Royal Asiatic society, Calcutta (1877).

● Sarangadaracharya. “Sarangadharsamhita”, English translation by P.Himasagara

chandhra Murthy, 1st edition published by Chowkamba Sanskrit series, Varanasi
(2001).

● Susruta. “Susruta samhita”, commetry by Kaviraja Ambikadatta Shastri 3rd edition,

published by Chowkamba Sanskrit series, Varanasi (1972)

● Vatsayana “Vatsayan Kamasutra” Telugu translation and publication by

Panchangnula Adinarayans shastri, Parasu Vakam, Veperi post, Madras (1930).