PD

F
Portugal

The Algarve
(PDF Chapter)
Edition 10th Edition, Mar 2017
Pages 59
Page Range 152–210 COVERAGE INCLUDES:
Useful Links • Faro • Lagos
• Milreu & Estói • Sagres
Want more guides?
Head to our shop • São Brás de Alportel
• Tavira
Trouble with your PDF?
Trouble shoot here • Castro Marim
• Loulé
Need more help?
• Albufeira
Head to our FAQs
• Carvoeiro
Stay in touch • Silves
Contact us here
• Portimão

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The Algarve
Includes  Why Go?
Faro. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 153 The alluring coast of the Algarve receives much exposure for
Milreu & Estói. . . . . . . 163 its breathtaking cliffs, golden beaches, scalloped bays and
São Brás de Alportel. . 163 sandy islands. But ‘sun, surf and sand’ is far from the end
Tavira . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 167 of the Algarve story; there’s no shortage of other attractions,
activities, beach bars (and discos), castles (both sand and
Castro Marim . . . . . . . . 177 real), diving, entertainment, fun…
Loulé. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 178 Let’s be frank: Portugal’s premier holiday destination
Albufeira . . . . . . . . . . . 182 sold its soul to tourism in the ’60s and never really looked
Carvoeiro. . . . . . . . . . . 185 back. Behind sections of the south coast’s beachscape loom
massive conglomerations of bland holiday villas and brash
Silves . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 186
resorts. However, the west coast is another story – one more
Portimão . . . . . . . . . . . 189 about nature and less about development.
Lagos. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 191 Yet the coastal Algarve is a ‘drop in the ocean’ for any
Sagres . . . . . . . . . . . . . 199 visitor. The enchanting inner Algarve boasts pretty castle
towns and historic villages, cork tree– and flower-covered
hillsides, birdlife, and the wonderful Via Algarviana hiking
trail crossing its breadth.
Best Places to Eat
¨¨Vila Joya (p184)
¨¨A Eira do Mel (p202) When to Go
¨¨Restaurante O Barradas Lagos
(p188) °C/°F Temp Rainfall Inches/mm
40/104 8/200
¨¨Pastelaria Chicca (p198)
30/86
6/150
20/68

Best Places to 10/50

4/100

Sleep 0/32
2/50

¨¨Casa d’Alagoa (p159) -10/14 0

J F M A M J J A S O N D
¨¨Pousada do Palácio de
Estoi (p163) Any time The Feb–Mar See and Apr–May Hike
¨¨Tavira House Hotel (p171) region is blessed smell the abun- inland amid the
¨¨Vila Monte (p166)
with good weather dance of almond wild flowers and
– a mild winter, and orange leafy hillsides or
¨¨Mareta View Boutique B&B and sun almost blossoms. get in pre-season
(p202) year-round. swims.
 153
History Cliff instability is a problem, especially heading
westwards from Lagos. Erosion is ongoing and
The Algarve has a long tradition of settle- serious rock falls and smaller landslides do occur.
ment. Phoenicians came first and estab- Heed the signs at the beaches and along the cliffs.
lished trading posts some 3000 years ago,
followed by the Carthaginians. Next came
the industrious Romans who, during their
88 Getting Around
400-year stay, grew wheat, barley and grapes BUS
and built roads and palaces. Check out the A good bus network runs along the Algarve coast
remains of Milreu, near Faro. and to Loulé. From here, you can access inland
Then came the Visigoths and, in 711, the Algarve, although services become more lim-
North African Moors. They stayed 500 years, ited. Two big bus companies, Eva Transportes
(www.eva-bus.com) and Rede Expressos (www.
although later Christians obliterated what
rede-expressos.pt), zip frequently between the

Th e A lg a rv e FA
they could. Many place names come from Algarve and elsewhere in Portugal. Smaller lines
this time and are easily recognised by the include Renex (www.renex.pt) and Frota Azul
article ‘al’ (eg Albufeira, Aljezur, Alcoutim). (www.frotazul-algarve.pt).
The Syrian Moors called the region in which
they settled (east of Faro to Seville, Spain) ‘al- CAR
Gharb al-Andalus’ (western Andalucía), later Most main towns have reliable car-hire outlets.

D aRO
known as ‘Algarve’. Another Arabic legacy is
the flat-roofed house, originally used to dry TRAIN

n g e r s & A n n o ya n ces
almonds, figs and corn, and to escape the Trains run along the coast between Faro and Vila
night heat. Real de Santo António, and Faro and Lagos (and
Trade, particularly in nuts and dried fruit, Loulé). Express trains run to/from the region’s
boomed, and Silves was the mighty Moorish main towns to Lisbon. Both the national train
company and the various bus companies all have
capital, quite independent of the large Mus-
easily searchable online timetables.
lim emirate to the east.
The Reconquista (Christian reconquest)
began in the early 12th century, with the
wealthy Algarve the ultimate goal. Though Faro
POP 50,000
Dom Sancho I captured Silves and territo-
ries to the west in 1189, the Moors returned. The Algarve’s capital has a more distinct-
Only in the first half of the 13th century did ly Portuguese feel than most resort towns.
the Portuguese claw their way back for good. Many visitors only pass through this under-
Two centuries later the Algarve had its rated city, which is a pity, as it makes for an
heyday. Prince Henry the Navigator chose enjoyable stopover. It has an attractive mari-
the appropriately end-of-the-earth Sagres na, well-maintained parks and plazas, and a
as the base for his school of navigation, historic old town full of pedestrian lanes and
and had ships built and staffed in Lagos for outdoor cafes. Its student population of 8000
15th-century explorations of Africa and Asia ensures a happening nightlife, and its theatre
– seafaring triumphs that turned Portugal scene is strong. Marvellously preserved me-
into a major imperial power. dieval quarters harbour curious museums,
churches and a bone chapel. The lagoons of
the Parque Natural da Ria Formosa and near-
88 Dangers & Annoyances by beaches, including the islands of Ilha de
This is Portugal’s most touristed area, and petty Faro to the southwest and Ilha da Barreta (aka
theft is prevalent. Never leave valuables unat- Ilha Deserta) to the south, add to Faro’s allure.
tended in the car or on the beach.
Swimmers should be aware of coastal condi-
tions, especially on the west coast; these include INFORMATION GUIDES
dangerous ocean currents, strong winds and
Algarve Tourism has produced some
sometimes fog. Check the coloured flags: cheq-
uered means the beach is unsupervised, red excellent full-colour information guides
means don’t even dip your toe in as it’s currently covering the Algarve – everything from
unsafe to do so, yellow means paddle but don’t wine trips, driving routes, the best
swim, and green means it’s safe to swim. Blue is beaches and the Via Algarviana walking
an international symbol that means the beach is track, among others. These are available
smashing – safe, clean and with good facilities. from tourist offices for €7 (the full-colour
waterproof diving booklet is €25).
6666
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T he Algarve Highlights
1 Wind your way up the 2 Lounge in waters off 3 Explore the Inner Algarve
stunning – and secluded – the untouched sand islands on foot, by bicycle or in a car,
west coast, after peering over of Parque Natural da Ria especially the villages of Alte
the cliffs of Cabo de São Formosa (p165). and Salir (p181) in and around
Vicente (p200), Portugal’s the Serra do Caldeirão
most southwesterly point. (p181).
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at Lagos’ (p191) beaches and Algarve’s most attractive town.
nightclubs.
1 56

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History Spanish rule. Troops under the Earl of Es-
After hosting the Phoenicians and Carthag- sex, en route to England from Spain in 1597,
inians, Faro boomed as the Roman port plundered the city and carried off hundreds
Ossonoba. During the Moorish occupation of priceless theological works from the bish-
it became the cultured capital of an 11th- op’s palace, now part of the Bodleian Library
century principality. in Oxford.
Afonso III took the town in 1249 – mak- Battered Faro was rebuilt, only to be
ing it the last major Portuguese town to be shattered by an earthquake in 1722 and
recaptured from the Moors – and walled it. then almost flattened by another in 1755.
Portugal’s first printed works – books in Most of what you see today was built post-
Hebrew made by a Jewish printer – came quake, though the historic centre largely
from Faro in 1487. survived. In 1834 Faro became the Algarve’s
A city from 1540, Faro had a brief golden capital.
age that ground to a halt in 1596, during
 1 57

Faro
æ Top Sights 18 Hotel Sol Algarve.....................................B2
1 Igreja de Nossa Senhora do 19 Pensão Residencial Central...................C3
Carmo & Capela dos Ossos.................C1 20 Stay Hotels Faro......................................D3
2 Sé .............................................................. C4
ú Eating
æ Sights 21 A Venda.....................................................C2
3 Arco da Vila.............................................. C4 22 Adega Nova..............................................B2
4 Arco de Repouso..................................... C4 23 Chefe Branco ........................................... A1
5 Galeria Trem............................................ C5 24 Faz Gostos................................................C5
6 Igreja de São Francisco.......................... D5 25 Gardy.........................................................C3
7 Igreja de São Pedro ................................ C2 26 Gengibre e Canela...................................D3
8 Museu Municipal..................................... C5 27 Maktostas.................................................C2

Th e A lg a rv e Fa
9 Museu Regional do Algarve................... D3 28 Pastelaria Coelho ....................................D4
29 Restaurante Madeirense........................C3
Ø Activities, Courses & Tours 30 Santo António Atelier de
10 Animaris................................................... B5 Comida................................................... A1
11 Formosamar............................................ B4 31 Vila Adentro .............................................C5
12 Natura Algarve ........................................ B3
û Drinking & Nightlife

S i grhts
ÿ Sleeping 32 Columbus Bar..........................................C3
13 A Doca ...................................................... C3 33 O Castelo ..................................................C5

o
14 Casa d'Alagoa.......................................... D3
15 Hotel Dom Bernardo ...............................C1 ý Entertainment
16 Hotel Eva.................................................. B3 34 Teatro Lethes...........................................D2
17 Hotel Faro ................................................ C3

1 Sights roque features. Climb the tower for views

across the walled town and estuary islands.
The cathedral also houses the Museu Capit-
1 Cidade Velha ular, with an assortment of chalices, priest-
Within medieval walls, the picturesque Ci- ly vestments and grisly relics (including
dade Velha (Old Town) consists of winding, both forearms of St Boniface), and a small
peaceful cobbled streets and squares, recon- 18th-century shrine built of bones.
structed in a melange of styles following The blocky, castle-like cathedral occu-
successive batterings – first by marauding pies what was probably the site of a Roman
British and then by two big earthquakes. temple, then a Visigoth cathedral and then
a Moorish mosque. Only the tower gate
Arco da Vila LANDMARK and several chapels remain of the original
(h 9am-6pm) Enter the Cidade Velha through Romanesque-Gothic exterior – the rest was
the neoclassical Arco da Vila, built by order obliterated in 1755. The interior has very elab-
of Bishop Francisco Gomes (Faro’s answer to orate baroque side altarpieces, and the altar
the Marquês de Pombal), who oversaw the itself is flanked by matching vaulted Gothic
city’s reconstruction after the 1755 earth- chapels. The baroque organ is worth noting.
quake. The tower above it is accessed from
within the tourist office and inside there’s a Museu Municipal MUSEUM
small exhibition on the building; from the (% 289 897 400; Praça Dom Afonso III 14; adult/
top you can admire the views and also the student €2/1; h 10am-6pm Tue-Fri, 10.30am-5pm
industry of the couple of storks that have Sat & Sun Jun-Sep, 10am-7pm Tue-Fri, 11.30am-
built their huge nests up there. 6pm Sat & Sun Oct-May) Faro’s domed 16th-
century Renaissance Convento de Nossa
oSé CATHEDRAL Senhora da Assunção, in what was once
(www.paroquiasedefaro.org; Largo da Sé; adult/ the Jewish quarter, houses the Museu Mu-
child €3.50/free; h 10am-6.30pm Mon-Fri, 9.30am- nicipal. Highlights include the 3rd-century
1pm Sat Jun-Aug, slightly shorter hours Sep-May) Mosaic of the Ocean, found in 1976; 9th- to
The centrepiece of the Cidade Velha, the sé 13th-century domestic Islamic artefacts; and
was completed in 1251 but heavily damaged works by a notable Faro painter, Carlos Filipe
in the 1755 earthquake. What you see now Porfírio, depicting local legends. Informative
is a variety of Renaissance, Gothic and ba- pamphlets in English detail key exhibits,
158
including the interesting Paths of the Ro- woodwork and a frenzied 18th-century ba-
man Algarve, an atmospheric display of roque interior with tiles depicting the life of
monumental stones. The museum hosts reg- St Francis. Part of the monastery now houses
ular fado (traditional song) performances. the Algarve’s tourism and hospitality school.
Galeria Trem GALLERY Igreja de São Pedro CHURCH
(www.cm-faro.pt; Rua do Trem; h 12.30-7pm Tue- (Largo de São Pedro; h from 9am) This tri-nave
Sat Jun-Sep, 11.30am-6pm Tue-Sat Oct-May) F 16th-century church can be found at the
This attractively converted building houses southern end of Largo do Carmo. The plain
temporary exhibitions by known local and exterior hides an interesting interior of
international artists – painters, photogra- 18th-century azulejos (hand-painted tiles)
phers, installation artists and sculptors. It’s and fine-carved woodwork.
worth popping by to see what’s on.
Th e A lg a rv e Fa

Faro Jewish Heritage Centre CEMETERY

Arco de Repouso LANDMARK (www.cilisboa.org/faro; Estrada da Penha; tour €3;
You can leave the Cidade Velha through the h 9am-1pm & 2-4.30pm Mon-Fri) The last vestiges
medieval Arco de Repouso (Gate of Rest). of the first post-Inquisition Jewish presence
Apparently Afonso III, after taking Faro in Portugal are found at the extraordinary
from the Moors, put his feet up and heard Jewish cemetery, here which has 76 beauti-
Mass nearby. Around the gateway are some ful marble gravestones. The small site also
T oruor s

of the town walls’ oldest sections – Afonso has a tiny museum and recreated synagogue
III’s improvements on the Moorish defences. (complete with a reconstructed wedding).
Knowledgeable caretaker António starts you
off with a long-winded DVD, then gives a de-
1 Elsewhere in Faro tailed, interesting tour. You’ll find the place
oIgreja de Nossa Senhora do Carmo tucked behind the football stadium – look for
& Capela dos Ossos CHURCH the cypresses – 1km from the centre.
(Largo do Carmo; €3.50; h 10am-6.30pm Mon-
Fri, 9.30am-1pm Sat, last admission 1hr before r Beaches
closing, mass 7pm Mon-Fri, 6pm Sat, 10am Sun) The town’s beach, Praia de Faro, with miles
This twin-towered baroque church was of sweeping sand, windsurfing operators
completed in 1719 under João V. The spec- and a few cafes, is on the Ilha de Faro, 10km
tacular facade was completed after the 1755 away. It’s crammed in July and August.
earthquake. Brazilian gold paid for it, and Take bus 14 or 16 from Próximo bus station
the interior is gilded to the extreme. The (€2.22, half-hourly June to August, via the
numerous cherubs seem comparatively seri- airport).
ous and sober, no doubt contemplating the Ferries go out to Praia de Farol (on Ilha da
ghoulish attraction behind the church: the Culatra) and Ilha da Barreta (aka Ilha Deser-
19th-century Capela dos Ossos, built from ta), a remote strip of sand just off the main-
the bones and skulls of over 1000 monks as land. Here, you will find Estaminé (p161), an
a blackly reverent reminder of earthly im- environmentally friendly restaurant built on
permanence. It’s quite a sight. boardwalks and run by solar power.
Museu Regional do Algarve MUSEUM
(% 289 827 610; Praça da Liberdade; adult/conces- T Tours
sion €1.50/1; h 10am-1.30pm & 2.30-6pm Mon-Fri) oAnimaris BOATING
Three of the four halls at this worthwhile (% 918 779 155, 917 811 856; www.animaris.pt)
museum house exhibitions on rural life Runs trips to Ilha da Barreta (Ilha Deserta).
in the Algarve. This includes mock-ups of Boats (€10 to €15 return) leave from south-
19th-century shops and rooms, a real fishing east of the marina, in front of the Cidade Vel-
boat, some impressively woven creations in ha (Old Town) walls. There’s a ticket kiosk
wicker, bamboo and palm leaves, and lots of by the marina. The same company runs 1½-
rag rugs and fishing nets. The fourth hall is hour year-round boat trips (€25) through
always given over to a temporary show on a Parque Natural da Ria Formosa. Boats leave
folksy local theme. from the pier next to Arco da Porta Nova.
Igreja de São Francisco CHURCH oFormosamar BOATING
(Largo de São Francisco; h mass 8.30am & 6.30pm) (% 918 720 002; www.formosamar.com; Clube Na-
Features a blinding white facade, dazzling val, Faro Marina) S This recommended outfit
 1 59
genuinely embraces and promotes environ-
mentally responsible tourism. Among the ALGARVIAN GEOGRAPHY 101
excellent tours it provides are two-hour bird-
The Algarve – both along the coast
watching trips around the Parque Natural da
and inland – comprises different areas.
Ria Formosa (€25), dolphin watching (€45),
The coastline is 155km long and can be
cycling (€37), and a two-hour small-boat trip
roughly categorised into distinct areas:
that penetrates some of the narrower lagoon
the leeward coast (Sotavento), from Vila
channels (€25). All trips have a minimum
Real de Santo António to Faro, is largely
number of participants (usually two or three).
fronted by a chain of sandy offshore
Formosamar also runs kayaking trips and
ilhas (islands); the central coast, from
rents out kayaks and bikes. It has departures
Faro to Portimão, features the heaviest
from Olhão and Tavira, too, and various tick-
resort development; the progressively
et offices around the Faro waterfront.

Th e A lg a rv e Fa
rockier windward coast (or Barlavento)
Natura Algarve BOATING from Lagos to Sagres culminates in the
(% 918 056 674; www.natura-algarve.com; Stand 2, wind-scoured grandeur of the Cabo de
Avenida da República) S This eco-responsible São Vicente, Europe’s southwestern-
operator offers a range of mainly boating ac- most corner; the Costa do Ouro (Golden
tivities, from all-day tours exploring the Ria Coast) borders the Costa de Sagres

F est
Formosa (5½ hours, €52 excluding lunch) (Bay of Sagres), while the Costa Vicenti-

r oi vals & E ve n ts
to two-hour dolphin trips (€45), 2½-hour na stretches for 110km north of Sagres
birdwatching trips (€35) and the popular and is part of the windy, wild Parque
‘Natura’ trip – a 2½-hour interpretative tour Natural do Sudoeste Alentejano e Costa
covering history, traditions and the local Vicentina. Elsewhere, in the hilly, thickly
economy. You explore the canals as well as green interior, are two high mountain
nearby Ilha da Culatra. ranges, the Serra de Monchique and
less-visited Serra do Caldeirão.
z Festivals & Events
Festa da Ria Formosa FOOD
(www.cm-faro.pt; h late Jun-early Aug) This event d €80; W ) Housed in a renovated man-
held at the height of summer is one for pes- sion on a pretty square, this commendable
catarians and seafood-lovers. Fishers and budget option has all the elements of today’s
others set up stalls and prepare their wares, sophisticated hostel: it’s funky, laid-back and
from crustaceans to other ocean delights. cool (and clean!). There’s a range of spacious
Concerts add to the fun atmosphere. dorms, a great lounge and an upstairs ter-
race, plus a communal kitchen…but hey,
FolkFaro MUSIC why do you need it when dinner is on offer?
(www.folkfaro.com; h mid-Aug) The city’s big Bike rental also available.
folk festival features lots of dance (with lo-
cal and international folk groups), live mu- A Doca GUESTHOUSE €
sic and street fests. Held at various venues (% 289 820 716; www.residencialadoca.com; Rua
around town. 1 de Maio 21; s/d €40/50; aW ) This superbly
run, spotless guest house does the basics
Feira de Santa Iria RELIGIOUS well – the wi-fi is strong, the beds are com-
(www.cm-faro.pt; h late Oct) Faro’s biggest tra- fortable and there are staff members on
ditional event honours St Irene with fair- hand 24 hours a day. Rooms are small – the
ground rides, stalls and entertainment. It double beds fill them out – and the show-
takes place in a temporary fairground to the ers could run a little hotter in winter, but
northeast. the location, near the waterfront, is superb.
Handy coffee machine at reception.
4 Sleeping
Pensão Residencial Central GUESTHOUSE €
Faro has it all, from four-star comfort to
(% 289 807 291; Largo do Bispo 12; s/d not incl
crash-pad residenciais. Outside high sea-
breakfast €40/50; W ) The eight rooms at this
son, prices can more than halve.
small guest house are cool and tiled, and
oCasa d’Alagoa HOSTEL € vary in size. They come with small bath-
(% 289 813 252; www.farohostel.com; Praça Alex- rooms and gentle courtesy from the owners.
andre Herculano 27; dm not incl breakfast €22-30, Rooms with balconies overlook the pretty
160
city. There’s a rooftop swimming pool for
FINDING A BED more marina gazing and various meal plans
are available for a fairly reasonable cost.
During July and August thousands of
Portuguese and foreign visitors flock to Hotel Faro HOTEL €€€
the Algarve. Faro airport – the region’s (% 289 830 830; www.hotelfaro.pt; Praça Dr Fran-
main transport hub – experiences mul- cisco Gomes 2; s/d €108/128; paW ) We’re not
tiple daily inbound and outbound flights. sure how this modern cubist block made it
During this time, most visitors have past the town planners, but it has comfort-
prebooked package accommodation. able, sleek rooms with large beds, marble-
For the independent traveller, it can be filled bathrooms and flat-screen TVs. The
tricky to front up and expect to find a small top-floor bar-restaurant with terrace is
bed with no reservation; try to reserve a great for a sunset cocktail and there’s a small
Th e A lg a rv e Fa

night or two in advance. Prices, too, are gym for sunrise workouts.
at their highest. In most places you can
expect to pay considerably less in mais 5 Eating
tranquilo (quieter) times. Check hotel Faro’s restaurants are big on seafood, though
websites for special deals. there’s also plenty for those who like their
food without fins and tentacles. Faro’s big,
E at

square; rooms at the back are quieter. Prices daily mercado municipal (municipal mar-
r ion g

can drop substantially in low season. ket) is in Largo Mercado.

Stay Hotels Faro HOTEL €€ Chefe Branco PORTUGUESE €

(% 289 898 080; www.stayhotels.pt; Rua de Portugal (Rua de Loulé 9; mains €4.50-13.50; h noon-11pm)
17; d €75-130; aW ) This revamped, re-branded A fabulous local spot with appealing street-
hotel (formerly the Santa Maria) has a trendy side seating and a slightly tacky but cosy
design lobby, but the rooms are pretty stand- interior. The delightful staff serves honest,
ard, with the building’s previous no-frills in- homestyle fare including rabbit, goat and
carnation coming through in the bathrooms seafood dishes. The half portions are the
in particular. Breakfast is an extra €6 and biggest this side of the Rio Tejo. Finish with
there’s a 24-hour bar with snacks available. an excellent Algarvian dessert.

Hotel Sol Algarve HOTEL €€ Gengibre e Canela VEGETARIAN €

(% 289 895 700; www.hotelsolalgarve.com; Rua (Travessa da Mota 10; buffet €7.50; h noon-3pm
Infante Dom Henrique 52; s/d €55/75; p a W ) Mon-Sat, groups only evenings; Wv ) Give the
This central, efficiently run hotel has bright, taste buds a break from meat and fish dishes
spick-and-span motel-style rooms, some and veg out (literally) at this Zen-like restau-
with balconies. It’s nothing special, but it rant. The buffet changes daily; there may be
will do the job and offers decent value out- vegetable lasagne, vegetarian feijoada (bean
side of high summer. Look for deals on the casserole) and tofu dishes, but there’s only the
website. occasional curry. Wine and desserts are extra.

Hotel Dom Bernardo HOTEL €€ Maktostas CAFE €

(% 289 889 800; www.bestwesternhoteldom (Rua do Alportel 29; dishes €4-9; h 9am-2am; W )
bernardo.com; Rua General Teófilo da Trindade 20; This worthwhile spot has an understatedly
s/d €78/85; paW ) The Dom Bernardo’s downbeat retro interior where students and
rooms are spotless and modern, if a little Faro bohemians of all ages gather for the de-
’80s (although some have been renovated). licious and enormous open toasties, the dai-
Beware: it’s a popular group option and nor- ly specials or a few beers. The tree-shaded
mally booked solid from June to September. terrace out the front, looking over a peaceful
Free parking available. Prices are signifi- square, is even better.
cantly reduced during low season. Pastelaria Coelho PORTUGUESE €
Hotel Eva HOTEL €€ (Rua Brites de Almeida 2; mains €4-7; h 7.30am-
(% 800 8585 1234; www.hotel-eva-faro.h-rez.com; 12.30am) This has to be the most deceptive
Avenida da República 1; d €88-105; paWs ) Up- spot in Faro. It looks like a pastelaria (pastry
market Eva has 134 spacious, pleasant rooms, and cake shop) from the outside, yet inside it
with rates varying according to whether the morphs into a restaurant, serving up some
view from the window is of sea, marina or hearty daily specials for a Portuguese song,
 16 1
including tuna steaks, seafood açorda (stew) 5.30pm Oct-May) S Like a spaceship landed
and roast pork. Locals rate it very highly. on an alien planet, this remote restaurant
rises up on boardwalks from the Ilha da
Gardy PATISSERIE €
Barreta as its sole building. It’s an entirely
(Rua de Santo António 16; pastries €0.50-4; self-sufficient operation, using 100% solar
h 8.30am-7.30pm Mon-Sat; W ) This is the place
power and desalinated water. As you might
to head for your patisserie fix, which can be expect, it specialises in fish and seafood. It
taken under brick vaulting or in the grandly has an adjoining snack bar serving cocktails.
columned space behind. It has a wide vari-
ety of homemade specialities but is slow to Santo António Atelier de
get going at breakfast time. Comida PORTUGUESE €€
(% 289 802 148; www.atelierdecomida.com; Praça
Mercado Municipal de Faro MARKET €
Largo Camões 23; mains €6-15; h 8am-midnight;

Th e A lg a rv e Fa
(% 289 897 250; www.mercadomunicipaldefaro.pt; W ) Modern in design rather than cuisine,
Largo Dr Francisco Sá Carneiro; h stalls 7am-3pm this place has a confusing entrance and
Mon-Sat; W ) Faro’s impressive modern mar- an open kitchen. Trendy seating abounds,
ket building makes a great place to wander, but there are few fripperies on the lengthy
people-watch, buy fresh produce, sit down menu, which excels with juicy cuts of pork
on a terrace with a coffee or have lunch at and delicious barbecued whole fish. Quali-
one of several worthwhile eateries.

D rri nok i n g & N i g htl i fe

ty tastes are sometimes paired with curious
oA Venda PORTUGUESE €€
presentation, but once it’s in your mouth,
(Rua Do Compromisso 60; mains €6-15; h noon- who minds?
11pm Tue-Sat) Sit down to a plate of honest, Vila Adentro PORTUGUESE €€
homestyle Portuguese food like avó (granny) (% 933 052 173; www.vilaadentro.pt; Praça Dom
used to make at this trendily retro backstreet Afonso III 17; mains €12-18; h 9am-midnight) With
place everyone’s talking about. ‘The Shop’ street-side tables in old Faro and a handsome
has an ancient tiled floor, mismatched fur- dining area decorated with bright furniture
niture and antique glass display cases, plus and lovely tiled panels, this conversion of a
a loyal following that comes for the food and historic building has a lot going for it. Ser-
the occasional session of live music. vice is multilingual and well meaning, and
the kitchen turns out interesting and tasty
oFaz Gostos PORTUGUESE, FRENCH €€
flavour combinations drawing on local tra-
(% 289 878 422; www.fazgostos.com; Rua do
ditions and inspiration from further afield.
Castelo 13; mains €13-19.50; h noon-3pm & 7-11pm
Mon-Fri, 7-11pm Sat; W ) Elegantly housed in Adega Nova PORTUGUESE €€
the old town, this restaurant offers high- (% 289 813 433; www.restauranteadeganova.com;
class French-influenced Portuguese cuisine Rua Francisco Barreto 24; mains €7-12; h noon-
in a spacious, comfortably handsome dining 3pm & 5-11pm; p ) Dishing up simply grilled
area. There’s plenty of game, fish and meat fish and meat, this popular place has plenty
on offer with rich and seductive sauces, and of country charm, with a beamed ceiling,
a few set menus are available. rustic cooking implements on display, and
long, communal tables and bench seats cre-
Restaurante Madeirense MADEIRAN €€
ating one of Faro’s most atmospheric dining
(% 967 168 140; Rua 1 Dezembro 28; mains €8-17;
rooms. Service is efficient.
h noon-10.30pm Tue-Sun) For an exotic take
on Portuguese cuisine, this small Madeiran
restaurant bangs down plates loaded with
6 Drinking & Nightlife
specialities you’ll only get on the Island of Faro’s student-fuelled nightlife clusters in
Eternal Spring. Espada (scabbard fish), bolo Rua do Prior and the surrounding alleys,
de caco (potato bread) and pudim de mar- with bars and clubs open most days till late,
acuja (maracuja pudding) are just some of though things pick up considerably on the
the treats on offer; round things off with a weekends.
poncha (sugar-cane liqueur) or sweet Ma-
deira wine.
oColumbus Bar BAR
(www.barcolumbus.pt; Praça Dom Francisco Gomes
Estaminé SEAFOOD €€ 13; h noon-4am; W ) Definitely the place to
(% 917 811 856; www.animaris.pt; Ilha da Barreta; be, this popular central place has a street-
mains €9-15; h 10.30am-7pm Jun-Sep, 11am- side terrace in the heart of town and an at-
tractive brick-vaulted interior. The bar staff
162
does a fine job mixing cocktails, and there’s terminal, has express coaches to Lisbon (€20,
a pleasing range of spirits. Gets lively from five hours, at least hourly).
around 11pm. Buses for Aeroporto de Faro and Praia de
Faro depart from a stop next to the bus station.
O Castelo BAR Services include the following.
(Rua do Castelo 11; h 10.30am-4am Wed-Mon winter, Albufeira (€4.70, 1½ hours, at least hourly).
from 10am summer; W ) O Castelo is all things Some go on to Portimão (€5.50, 1¾ hours) and
to all people: bar, restaurant, club and per- Lagos (€5.90, two hours).
formance space. Start your day here with a Loulé (€3.25, 40 minutes, at least hourly).
coffee, grab a light meal for lunch or take in Olhão (€3.25, 20 minutes, every 20 minutes
sunset over a cocktail. In summer the out- weekdays, every 45 minutes weekends).
side morphs into a party space, and there São Brás de Alportel (€4.10, 40 minutes, 11
are regular fado (traditional song) nights. Its daily) via Estói (€3.25, 20 minutes).
Th e A lg a rv e Fa

location atop the historic old-town walls is Vila Real de Santo António (€5.50, 1¾ hours,
superb. nine daily) via Tavira (€4.60, one hour).

3 Entertainment CAR
The most direct route from Lisbon to Faro takes
Teatro Lethes THEATRE
about five hours. An alternative to the motorway
(% 289 878 908; www.actateatro.org.pt/teatro- is the often traffic-clogged N125. Tolls apply.
E nrte

lethes; Rua Lethes; h box office 2-6pm Tue-Fri, Faro’s easiest parking is in Largo de São Fran-
8-9.30pm performance days) This tiny and ex-
o r ta i n me n t

cisco (free).
quisite Italianate theatre hosts drama, mu- Major car-rental agencies are at the airport.
sic and dance performances. Adapted into
Auto Jardim (% 289 818 491; www.auto-jardim
a theatre in 1874 (from a building dating .com; Aeroporto de Faro)
to 1603), it was once the Jesuit Colégio de
Auto Rent (% 282 417171; www.autorent.pt;
Santiago Maior. Check its website or ask the Aeroporto de Faro)
tourist office for a list of what’s on; you can Guerin (% 289 889 445; www.guerin.pt;
buy tickets online. Aeroporto de Faro)

88 Information TRAIN
Turismo (www.visitalgarve.pt; Rua da Miser- There are three direct trains from Lisbon daily
icórdia 8; h 9am-1pm & 2-6pm) This efficient, (€21.20 to €22.20, 3¾ hours); 1st-class fares
busy place offers information on Faro. are slightly higher. You can also get to Porto
(€41.70, six to eight hours, four daily), some-
Turismo de Aeroporto Internacional (% 289
times changing at Lisbon.
818 582; h 8am-10pm) Based at Faro airport
and one of a series of offices run by Algarve Regional services include the following.
Tourism around the region; good for basic Albufeira (€3.30, 30 minutes, hourly).
information on arrival. Lagos (€7.30, 1¾ hours, hourly).
Vila Real de Santo António (€5.20, 1¼ hours,
88 Getting There & Away hourly) via Olhão (€1.40, 10 minutes).

AIR
TAP (Air Portugal; % 707 205 700; www.flytap.
88 Getting Around
com) has multiple daily Lisbon–Faro flights (40 TO/FROM THE AIRPORT
minutes). There’s an office at the airport. Inter-
nationally there are many flights a day to/from Próximo (% 289 899 700; www.proximo.pt) city
regional airports across the UK and Germany. buses 14 and 16 run to the bus station (€2.22, 20
minutes, half-hourly June to August, slightly less
For flight enquiries call the airport (FAO;
frequently in low season). From here it’s an easy
% 289 800 800; www.ana.pt; W ).
stroll to the centre.
BUS A taxi into town costs around €13 (20% more
Buses arrive at and depart from Eva bus sta- after 10pm and on weekends), plus around €2
tion (% 289 899 760; www.eva-bus.com; Av da for each luggage item.
República 5). Eva services run to Seville in Spain
BICYCLE
(€20, 3½ hours, four daily) via Huelva (€16, 2½
hours). You can rent bikes (including kids’ bikes) from
Renex (% 289 812 980; www.renex.pt; Avenida Formosamar (p158; per hour/day €6/20).
da República 106), located opposite the bus
 16 3
BOAT At the entrance to the site, a small mu-
Animaris (p158) operates four ferries a day to/ seum gives some context, including a scale
from Ilha da Barreta (€10 return). model of the temple in its glory days.
TAXI 4 Sleeping & Eating
Ring for a taxi (% 289 895 795) or find one at Simple local cafes front Estói’s small main
the taxi rank outside the train station. square.

oPousada do
Milreu & Estói Palácio de Estoi HISTORIC HOTEL €€€
POP 3650 (% 210 407 620; www.pousadas.pt; Rua São José;
Ten kilometres north of Faro, the Roman r from €135; p a i W s ) This sumptuous
ruins at Milreu make a pleasant excursion rococo-style palace is quite a sight with its

Th e A lg a rv e M
when you need a break from the beaches. Versailles-style gardens and pink facade.
Several hundred metres up the road is the Nonguests are allowed to visit its public ar-
sleepy but attractive village of Estói, which eas: a succession of delightful rooms ending
boasts a derelict but charming 18th-century in a very tempting terrace for a drink or a
rococo palace and gardens, some of which light meal. The hotel rooms are spacious
has been renovated into a pousada (upmar- and comfortable, set in a modern wing.

S iigl hts
ket inn).
88 Getting There & Away

r e u & E st ó i
1 Sights Eva buses (p162) run from Faro to Estói, passing
Milreu Ruins RUINS through Milreu (€3.25, 20 minutes, 10 daily
(€2; h 9.30am-1pm & 2-6.30pm Tue-Sun May-Sep, Monday to Friday), continuing on to São Brás de
9am-1pm & 2-5.30pm Tue-Sun Oct-Apr) Set in Alportel. At weekends there is a skeleton service.
beautiful countryside just outside of Estói, Estói is nearly 1km from Milreu.
north of Faro, these ruins of a Roman villa
are so large and grand they were original-
ly thought to have been a town. The villa, São Brás de Alportel
inhabited from the 1st century AD, has the POP 10,600
characteristic peristyle form, with a gallery Seventeen kilometres north of Faro, this
of columns around a courtyard. The high- quiet country town provides a welcome
light is the temple, the fish mosaics and break from the coast. São Brás de Alpor-
former central pool of which suggest that it tel (SBA) has few attractions in the town
was devoted to a water cult. proper, but it’s a pleasant place to stroll.
The fish mosaics in the bathing chambers There are some excellent activities in the
(to the west of the villa’s courtyard) provide surrounding area, including walks and a
a tantalising glimpse of the villa’s former guided cork route. SBA was a hot spot in
glory. The remains of the bathing rooms the 19th-century heyday of cork and there
also include the apodyterium (changing are still 10 prospering factories around the
room; note the arched niches and benches town. It lies in a valley in the olive-, carob-,
for clothes and post-bath massage) and the fig- and almond-wooded Barrocal region, a
frigidarium, which had a marble basin to lush limestone area sandwiched between
hold cold water for cooling off after a bath. the mountains and the sea.
Other luxuries included underground
heating and marble sculptures (now in Faro 1 Sights
and Lagos museums). oMuseu do Traje MUSEUM
In the 6th century the temple was con- (% 289 840 100; www.museu-sbras.com; Rua Dr
verted into a church, and a small mauso- José Dias Sancho 61; €2; h 10am-1pm & 2-5pm
leum was added, and in the 8th century it Mon-Fri, 2-5pm Sat & Sun) This beautifully
was converted into a mosque. In the 10th maintained museum, 300m east of the town
century it collapsed, possibly due to an square, is a labour of love for the curator
earthquake, and the site was abandoned. and Friends of the Museum. It’s housed in
In the 15th century, a farmhouse was a former cork magnate’s mansion (stunning
constructed within the abandoned site in itself – note the original kitchen). The
(the house, much modified, is still there building displays an ever-changing exhibi-
today). tion of local costumes, of which there are
16 4
(Ossonoba) with Beja (Pax Julia). It was used
by mules and shepherds until the 19th cen-
ALMANCIL tury. You can wander along two branches –
It’s worth making a detour to Almancil, one is around 100m, the other 500m. Ask
13km northwest of Faro and about 6km for directions at the Centro da Calçadinha
south of Loulé, to visit the marvellous or tourist offices.
Igreja de São Lourenço de Matos Cork Route WALKING
(Church of St Lawrence; Rua da Igreja; (% 918 204 977; www.algarverotas.com; short/
€2; h 10am-1pm & 3-5pm Mon-Sat). The medium/full tour €19/36/42) English-speaking
church was built on the site of a ruined guides lead a fascinating interpretative
chapel after local people, while digging tour along a cork route that might include
a well, had implored the saint for help visiting a traditional cork factory or view-
Th e A lg a rv e S

and then struck water. ing cork stacks in the surrounding coun-
The resulting baroque masterpiece, tryside, known as the barrocal (limestone)
which was built by fraternal master- coastal region. Participants learn about the
team Antão and Manuel Borges, is industry, from the extraction of cork from
smothered in azulejos (hand-painted the trees to its production, the processes
tiles) – even the ceiling is covered in and use.
them. The walls depict scenes from the
Aãct

life of the saint. In the earthquake of z Festivals & Events

oi B

1755, only five tiles fell from the roof.

v irtái es

Feira da Serra FIESTA

Buses between Albufeira (40 min-
(http://feiradaserra.cm-sbras.pt; h late Jul) This
s de A lp o r tel

utes) and Loulé (15 minutes) stop in

Almancil.
down-home country fair sells locally pro-
duced cheese and meats, cakes, wine and
other belly fillers; there are also games for
15,000 in the museum store – it’s Portugal’s the kids and plenty of folkloric song and
second-largest collection. dance performances.
Igreja Matriz CHURCH
(Largo do Igreja) You’d be lucky to find this
4 Sleeping
16th-century church open outside Mass Hospedaria São Brás GUESTHOUSE €

time, but the breezy views of the orange (% 919 999 756; Rua Luís Bívar 27; s/d €35/55;
a W ) Around the corner from the bus sta-
groves and surrounding valleys are worth
heading this way for. At Easter the church tion (along the Loulé road), this guest house
is the central point of the Festa das Tochas in a tiled mini-mansion is jam-packed with
Floridas, which sees the roadway heading attractive antiques (note the gramophone),
into the town centre covered in a carpet of pretty azulejos (hand-painted tiles) and
flowers. plants. The owner is delightful.

Jardim de Verbena PARK 5 Eating

(Rua do Matadouro; h 8am-8pm Apr-Sep, to 6pm Pastelaria O Ervilha CAFE €
Oct-Mar) F Below what was once a bish- (Largo de São Sebastião 7; pastries from €0.75;
op’s palace, this pretty garden is a shady h 8am-8pm Tue-Sun; W ) In the centre of
place for a picnic. It’s now dominated by the town and overlooking the square, this São
municipal swimming pool. Brás institution (it’s been around since
Centro da Calçadinha MUSEUM
1952) sells tasty pastries made on the
(Rua do Matadouro 2; h 9am-5.30pm Tue-Sat)
premises as well as fresh sandwiches and
F This surprisingly large and empty
the usual A–Z of Portuguese coffee.
centre has information on an ancient foot- Ysconderijo INTERNATIONAL €€
path used since Roman times. In winter you (% 289 849 520; Rua Gago 47; mains €13-19;
might be the day’s only visitor. h 6.30pm-1am Tue-Sat) The best place to eat
in SBA is this contemporary, evenings-only
2 Activities almost gourmet spot near the turismo. The
Calçadinha de São Brás menu is an eclectic mix of flavoursome duck,
de Alportel WALKING lamb and seafood, kids eat for €5 a head and
This is an ancient road constructed dur- you can start or finish with a €4 cocktail.
ing Roman times, possibly linking Faro
 16 5
Reservations are recommended in summer Quinta de Marim NATURE RESERVE
and you can’t pay by card. (www.icnf.pt; h 8am-8pm Mon-Fri, 10am-8pm Sat
& Sun Apr-Oct, 9am-noon & 2-5pm daily Nov-Mar)
88 Information Located three kilometres east of Olhão is
Ponte de Informacão Turística (% 289 840 the beautiful 60-hectare Centro Educação
000; www.cm-sbras.pt; Rua Dr Victorino Ambiental de Marim (commonly known as
Passos Pinto 1-5; h 9am-1pm & 2-5pm Mon-Fri) Quinta de Marim). A 3km trail takes you
The municipality’s tourist point is next to the through various ecosystems – dunes, salt
municipal swimming pool. marshes, pine woodlands – as well as to a
Turismo (% 289 843 165; www.visitalgarve. wildlife rescue centre and a historic water
pt; Largo de São Sebastião; h 9am-12.30pm & mill. Chameleons are among the local spe-
1-4pm Mon-Fri) Distributes maps and informa- cies of interest. The Parque Natural da Ria
tion on the region and town. Formosa headquarters and interpretation

Th e A lg a rv e Olh
centre is also here.
88 Getting There & Away To get here, take a municipal bus to the
Buses run to/from Faro (via Estói, €4.10, 30 campground (200m before the visitor centre).
minutes, nine daily) and to Loulé (€3.25, 25
Mercados Municipais MARKET
minutes, four weekdays). There are fewer servic-
es at weekends. (Avenida 5 de Outubro; h 7am-2pm Mon-Sat) By

I n f oãromat i o n
the water, these two noble centenarian red-
brick buildings are excellent examples of in-
Olhão dustrial architecture and house picturesque
traditional fruit and fish markets that are
POP 15,000
worth a look at any time but are especially
A short hop east of Faro, Olhão (pronounced
appealing on a Saturday morning. A string
ol-yowng) is the Algarve’s biggest fishing
of simple seafood eateries and cafes makes
port, with an active waterfront and pret-
them an atmospheric spot for a bite with
ty, bustling lanes in its old quarters. There
water views.
aren’t many sights, but the flat-roofed,
Moorish-influenced neighbourhoods and
North African feel make it a pleasant place
r Beaches
to wander. The town’s fish restaurants draw Island Beaches BEACH

the crowds, as does the morning fish and The island beaches that are offshore form
vegetable market on Avenida 5 de Outubro, part of the Parque Natural da Ria Formo-
best visited on Saturday. sa and make an appealing summer desti-
Olhão is also a springboard for those nation for strolling or sunbathing. Boats
wishing to head out to the Parque Natural (€3.70 to €4.30 return) run to Armona,
da Ria Formosa’s sandy islands, Culatra and Culatra and Farol at least three times a
Armona, plus the park’s environmental cen- day (more frequently in summer) from the
tre at Quinta de Marim. For fans of Portu- quay just east of the Mercados Municipais
guese football, until recently this small town on Avenida 5 de Outubro.
had the Algarve’s only Primeira Liga team –
Olhanense. 2 Activities
Caminho das Lendas WALKING
1 Sights (Legends Rte; www.cm-olhao.pt) An interesting
oParque Natural da 300m walking route winds its way through
Ria Formosa NATURE RESERVE
the knot of alleyways and tiny squares just
(www.icnf.pt) This sizeable system of lagoons back from the seafront. Info boards relate
and islands stretches for 60km along the myths and legends associated with the
Algarve coastline from west of Faro to area.
Cacela Velha. It encloses a vast area of sa-
pal (marsh), salinas (salt pans), creeks and T Tours
dune islands. The marshes are an important For around €12 per hour, you can grab a ride
area for migrating and nesting birds. You on a traditional boat through one of several
can see a huge variety of wading birds here, private boat operators. Formosamar (p158),
along with ducks, shorebirds, gulls and based in Faro, has tours departing from
terns. This is the favoured nesting place of Olhão.
the little tern and the rare purple gallinule.
166
z Festivals & Events tennis courts and a superb restaurant
Festival do Marisco FOOD
complete the picture. Room rates are very
(www.festivaldomarisco.com; h mid-Aug) This
reasonable.
lively seafood festival features all the
great Algarvian oceanic dishes, including 5 Eating
caldeirada (fish stew) and cataplana Avenida 5 de Outubro has a market (p165)
(seafood stew). Bands playing live music and is lined with seafood restaurants open
add to the fun; it’s one of southern Portu- for lunch and dinner (closed in between).
gal’s livelier festivals. Follow your whim – nearly all serve good
cataplanas (seafood stews) and xerém (sim-
4 Sleeping ilar to polenta).
Camping Olhão CAMPGROUND € Tasca o Galo PORTUGUESE €€
Th e A lg a rv e Olh

(% 289 700 300; www.sbsi.pt; sites per adult/tent/ (Rua a Gazeta de Olhão 7; mains €8-16; h 5pm-
car €4.20/3.10/3.40, family bungalows €50-80; midnight Mon-Sat) In a converted mer-
pWs ) This large, well-equipped, shady chant’s store in an alley just back from
campground is 2km east of Olhão by the the seafront, this tiny 22-seat affair serves
train line, and pleasantly close to the na- a brief menu of homemade dishes includ-
ture walk at Quinta de Marim. To get here, ing cataplana (seafood stew) and cut-
F estãiovals & E ve n ts

you can catch a municipal bus from the bus tlefish. Begin with a simple €2 starter of
station. award-winning olive oil and bread while
O Tartufo B&B €€
you admire the mishmash of furniture,
(% 289 791 218; www.otartufo.com; Sitio do Gião 41,
colourful Portuguese tablecloths and light,
Moncarapacho; s/d with shared bathroom €58/70,
breezy dining room. Friendly Portuguese-
d €75-90, apt €100; h mid-Apr–mid-Oct; p W )
Swedish owners.
Enthusiastic expatriates Michelle and Theo Tacho à Mesa PORTUGUESE €€
have converted this old quinta (farmhouse) (% 289 096 734; Rua Lavadouros 46; mains €8-
into eight pleasant rooms – a creative blend 15; h 11am-3pm Mon-Sat, 7.30-10.30pm Tue-Sat;
of traditional Moorish with a touch of con- W ) The white, modern interior in this spot
temporary hippy. The B&B is set within a set back from the main drag, Avenida da
lovely garden, complete with hammocks, República, plays host to excellent traditional
mosaic paths and fountains. A communal cooking accompanied by a cordial wel-
kitchen is a handy addition. It’s located in come. With fresh produce purchased twice
Moncarapacho, 4km inland from Fuzeta. a day, it produces a great cataplana (sea-
Call for directions. food stew), super-juicy bochechas de porco
Pensão Bicuar GUESTHOUSE €€
(pork cheeks) and other Algarvian-Alentejan
(% 289 714 816; www.pensionbicuar.com; Rua
delights.
Vasco da Gama 5; s/d €39/66; W ) This guest Sabores do Churrasco BARBECUE €€
house offers a range of pleasant rooms fea- (www.saboresdochurrasco.pt; Avenida 5 de Outubro
turing old-fashioned details and quirky idi- 162; buffet €10-16; h noon-4pm & 7pm-midnight;
osyncrasies that visitors enjoy. Some rooms W ) On offer here is an authentic-as-they-
have bathrooms, others don’t. A guest come Brazilian churrasqueira, and an
kitchen, a roof terrace and a book exchange incredible all-you-can-eat carnivorous ex-
are handy inclusions. It’s right in the heart travaganza – five kinds of grilled meat or, for
of town. an even greater protein injection, 12 kinds
in one sitting.
oVila Monte BOUTIQUE HOTEL €€€
(% 289 790 790; www.vilamonte.com; Sitio dos
Caliços, Moncarapacho; s/d from €100/120; 88 Information
p W s ) Stay in whitewashed splendour Turismo (% 289 713 936; www.visitalgarve.pt;
at this farmhouse boutique hotel near Largo Sebastião Martins Mestre 6; h 9am-6pm
the village of Moncarapacho, around 8km Tue-Thu, 9am-1pm & 2-6pm Fri-Mon)
northeast of Olhão. Traditionally fash-
ioned rooms are all terracotta floors, white 88 Getting There & Away
wood and cosy fabrics, while the hotel BUS
stands in 9 hectares of olive groves and Eva express buses run to Lisbon (€20, 3¾ hours,
orange-tree orchards. Two swimming pools, four to five daily), as do Renex services.
 16 7
Buses run frequently to/from Faro (€3.25, 20 site of a Roman fortress, and two mosques.
minutes). In 1242 Dom Paio Peres Correia reconquered
the town. Those Moors who remained were
TRAIN
segregated into the mouraria (segregated
Regular trains run to Faro (€1.40, 10 minutes,
Moorish quarter) outside the town walls.
hourly) and east to Fuzeta (€1.40, 10 minutes)
and Tavira (€2.35, 30 minutes). As the Portuguese port closest to the Mo-
roccan coast, Tavira became important dur-
ing the Age of Discoveries, serving as a base
88 Getting Around for expeditions to North Africa, with a hos-
Handy municipal buses run ‘green and yellow pital and supplying provisions (especially
routes’ around town, including to the camp- salt, wine and dried fish). Its maritime trade
ground and supermarkets.
also expanded, with exports of salted fish,
Ferry services run out to the ilhas from the pier almonds, figs and wine to northern Europe.

Th e A lg a rv e Tav
at the eastern end of Jardim Patrão Joaquim By 1520 it had become the Algarve’s most
Lopes.
populated settlement and was raised to the
Ilha da Armona (€3.70 return, 15 minutes)
rank of city.
At least nine daily June to mid-September,
hourly July and August, around four daily
Decline began in the early 17th century
mid-September to May. The last trip back when the North African campaign was aban-
from Armona in July and August leaves at doned and the Rio Gilão became so silted

Gett
8.30pm. up that large boats couldn’t enter the port.

i ri an g A r o u n d
Ilha da Culatra (€3.70 return, 30 minutes) Six Things got worse when the plague struck in
daily from June to September and four daily 1645, followed by the 1755 earthquake.
from mid-September to May. After briefly producing carpets in the late
Praia de Farol (€4.30 return, one hour) Six 18th century, Tavira found a more stable in-
daily from June to September and four daily come in its tuna fishing and canning indus-
from mid-September to May. try, although this too declined in the 1950s.
Today, tourists have taken the place of fish as
the biggest source of town income.
Tavira
POP 15,100 1 Sights
Set on either side of the meandering Rio
Gilão, Tavira is arguably the Algarve’s most
charming town. The ruins of a hilltop cas- 1 Old Town
tle, an old Roman bridge and a smattering Enter the old town through the Porta de
of Gothic and Renaissance churches are Dom Manuel, built in 1520 when Dom Ma-
among its historic attractions. An enticing nuel I made Tavira a city. Largo da Porta do
assortment of restaurants and guesthouses Postigo is by another old town gate and is
makes it an excellent base for exploring the in the town’s Moorish quarter.
Algarve’s eastern reaches.
Torre da Tavira CAMERA OBSCURA
Tavira is ideal for wandering; the warren
(www.torredetavira.com; Calçada da Galeria 12; adult/
of cobblestone streets hides pretty, historic
child €4/2; h 10am-5pm Mon-Fri, to 1pm Sat Jul-Sep,
gardens and shady plazas. There’s a small,
10am-5pm Mon-Fri Feb-Jun, to 4pm Oct-Jan) The
active fishing port and a modern market.
Torre da Tavira, which was formerly the town’s
Only 3km from the coast, Tavira is the
water tower (100m), houses a camera obscu-
launching point for the stunning, unspoilt
ra. A simple but ingenious object, the camera
beaches of Ilha de Tavira.
obscura reveals a 360-degree panoramic view
History of Tavira, its monuments and local events, in
real time – all while you are stationary.
The Roman settlement of Balsa was just
down the road from Tavira, near Santa Luzia Igreja de Santa Maria
(3km southwest). The seven-arched bridge do Castelo CHURCH
the Romans built at Tavira (which was then (Calçada da Galeria; h Mass 7.15pm Mon-Sat,
called Tabira) was an important link in the 11.30am Sun) Built in Gothic style over a
route between Baesuris (Castro Marim) and mosque, but rebuilt by an Italian neoclassi-
Ossonoba (Faro). cist following earthquake damage 500 years
In the 8th century the Moors occupied later, this church by the castle retains orig-
Tavira. They built the castle, probably on the inal elements – namely the main doorway,
16 8

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two side chapels and Arabic-style windows strained Renaissance arches contrast
in the clock tower. Inside is a plaque mark- with the cherub-heavy baroque altar;
ing the tomb of Dom Paio Peres Correia, tiled panels depict the works of mercy.
who took the town back from the Moors, as Behind is a museum with a rather effem-
well as those of the seven Christian knights inate St John, salvers, chalices, and a hall
whose killing by the Moors precipitated the with an interesting 18th-century apple-
final attack on Tavira. wood ceiling and elegant furniture.
Igreja da Misericórdia CHURCH Castelo CASTLE
(Largo da Misericórdia; h 9.30am-1pm & 2-6pm (Largo Abu-Otmane; h 8am-5pm Mon-Fri, 9am-
Mon-Sat) Built in the 1540s, this church 7pm Sat & Sun, to 5pm winter) F Tavira’s
is the Algarve’s most important Renais- ruined castle rises high and mighty above
sance monument, with a magnificent the town. Possibly dating back to Neolithic
carved, arched doorway. Inside, the re- times, the structure was rebuilt by Phoeni-
 169

Tavira
æ Sights 17 Residencial Lagôas .................................C2
1 Biblioteca Municipal Álvaro de 18 Tavira House Hotel..................................A5
Campos................................................. D5 19 Tavira Inn.................................................. A1
2 Castelo ..................................................... B4
3 Igreja da Misericórdia............................. B3 ú Eating
4 Igreja de Santa Maria do Castelo.......... B4 20 A Barquinha .............................................D4
5 Igreja de Santiago................................... B4 21 Aquasul.....................................................C2
6 Núcleo Islâmico....................................... B3 22 O Tonel......................................................C2
7 Palácio da Galeria ................................... B3 23 Pastelaria Tavirense ...............................C4
8 Ponte Romana......................................... C3
9 Praça da República................................. C3 û Drinking & Nightlife
10 Torre da Tavira........................................ B3 24 Pessoa's Cafe...........................................C3

Th e A lg a rv e Tav
25 Sítio Cafe ..................................................C2
Ø Activities, Courses & Tours 26 Tasca do Zé André ..................................B2
11 Abílio Bikes .............................................. B2 27 Tavira Lounge ..........................................B3
12 Tourist Train............................................ C2
ý Entertainment
ÿ Sleeping 28 Fado Com História ..................................B3
13 Calçada Guesthouse .............................. B3

S i g hts
14 Casa Beleza do Sul ................................. D4 þ Shopping
15 Pousada Convento de Tavira................ A4 29 Casa do Artesão ......................................B3

ira
16 Pousada de Juventude Tavira............... A5

cians and later taken over by the Moors; cafe tables that tumble out of the square’s
most of what now stands is a 17th-century many cafes.
reconstruction. The interior holds a pleas-
antly exotic botanic garden, and the octago- Ponte Romana BRIDGE

nal tower offers fine views over Tavira. Note This seven-arched bridge that loops away
that the ramparts and steps are without from Praça da República may predate the
railings, so parents beware. Romans but is so named because it linked
the Roman road from Castro Marim to
Igreja de Santiago CHURCH Tavira. The structure you see dates from
(Rua Dom Paio Peres Correia; h Mass 8.45am Tue a 17th-century reconstruction. The lat-
& Thu, 5pm Sat) Just south of Tavira’s castle est touch-up job was in 1989, after floods
is the whitewashed 17th-century Igreja knocked down one of its pillars. The view
de Santiago, built where a small mosque upriver is one of the prettiest in the region;
probably once stood. The area beside it was downriver things are spoilt a bit by the
formerly the Praça da Vila, the old town modern flyover nearer the coast.
square.
Núcleo Islâmico MUSEUM
Palácio da Galeria MUSEUM (Praça da República 5; adult/child €2/1, with Palácio
(% 281 320 540; Calçada da Galeria; adult/child da Galeria €3/1.50; h 10am-12.30pm & 3-6pm
€2/1, with Núcleo Islâmico €3/1.50; h 10am- mid-Jun–mid-Sep, 10am-4.30pm Tue-Sat mid-Sep–
12.30pm & 3-6pm Tue-Sat Apr-Oct, 9am-4.30pm mid-Jun) Built around the globulous remains
Nov-Mar) This elegant palace puts on a vari- of an Islamic-era structure, this small 21st-
ety of exhibitions on a wide range of artistic century museum exhibits impressive Islam-
and historical topics. ic pieces discovered in various excavations
around the old town. There’s a six-minute
introductory video downstairs; one of the
1 Elsewhere in Tavira most important finds on display upstairs
Praça da República SQUARE is the Tavira vase, an elaborate ceramic
For centuries this sociable town square on work with figures and animals around the
the riverfront served as promenade and rim. Multilingual handouts are available at
marketplace, where slaves were traded reception.
along with fish and fruit. Today a large part The top floor of the museum is dedicated
of it has been remodelled as an open amphi- to temporary exhibitions with a local theme.
theatre, cars squeezing between it and the
170
Biblioteca Municipal protected area, with departures from Santa
Álvaro de Campos LIBRARY Luzia and Cabanas near Tavira, as well as
(www.cm-tavira.pt; Rua da Comunidade Lusíada from Olhão and Fuseta. Choices range from
21; h 2-6.30pm Mon & Sat, 10am-6.30pm Tue-Fri) hour-long cruises (€12.50) to all-day explo-
Aspiring architects and anyone who ap- rations of the offshore islands and ecosys-
preciates modern design should pay a visit tems (€60).
to Tavira’s municipal library, which was
originally the town prison. Architect João Kitesurf Eolis KITESURFING

Luís Carrilho da Graça sympathetically (% 962 337 285; www.kitesurfeolis.com; Centro

and cleverly converted the former prison’s Comercial, Shop 33, Ria Formosa 38, Cabanas de
facade and cells into a modern, harmoni- Tavira) Highly professional outfit based at
ous cultural space. Opened in 2006, the Cabanas de Tavira, around 6km east of Ta-
building houses books, exhibitions and vira, offering kitesurfing classes and a range
Th e A lg a rv e Tav

computers. of other water sports.

Arraial Ferreira z Festivals & Events

Neto Museum MUSEUM Festa de Cidade CULTURAL
(Hotel Vila Galé Albacora; h 9am-6pm Mar-Oct) (h 23 & 24 Jun) You can’t go wrong with free
F The original name of a former fish- sardines and that’s what you’ll get at Festa
A ctiirv ai t i es

ing community (between 1943 and around de Cidade, Tavira’s biggest festival. Myrtle
1970) and now incorporated within the and paper flowers decorate the streets,
Hotel Vila Galé Albacora (% 281 380 800; and the dancing and festivities carry on
www.vilagale.pt; Quatro Águas; s/d from €140/165; till late.
h Mar-Oct; p a W s ), the site has original
buildings as well as this tiny tuna-fishing
museum. It has little in the way of descrip-
4 Sleeping
tion but does have a diorama of the complex oPousada de
Juventude Tavira HOSTEL €
tuna-netting system and some impressive
(% 281 326 731; www.pousadasjuventude.pt; Rua
black-and-white photos.
Dr Miguel Bombarda 36; dm €17, d €38-47; h Jan-
Quatro Águas VILLAGE, OUTDOORS Nov; W ) Forget the stereotypical youth hos-
You can walk 2km east along the river, past tel: this hip, modern spot is a comfortable
the fascinating, snowlike salt pans to Quatro haven for the budget traveller. It features a
Águas. The salt pans produce tip-top table lovely living room decked out in a Moorish
salt and attract feeding birds in summer, theme, spacious four-bed dorms, a fabulous
including flamingos. As well as being the kitchen and a laundry. Its ingenious design
jumping-off point for Ilha de Tavira, the even allows for attractive hotel-style dou-
seaside hub of Quatro Águas has a couple bles. What’s more, it’s bang in the centre of
of seafood restaurants. Buses run here in town.
summer.
Residencial Lagôas GUESTHOUSE €
Santa Luzia VILLAGE (% 281 328 243; Rua Almirante Cândido dos Reis
The fishing village of Santa Luzia is effec- 24; s/d €25/45; a W ) For those who prefer
tively a district of Tavira these days, and it’s a bit more privacy than hostels provide,
a recommended place to wander to get a this is one of the few true budget options in
feel for typical Algarve life. Overlooking the town. It offers small (some cramped), spot-
channel that separates the mainland from less rooms, some with their own bathroom,
the Ilha de Tavira, the village is famous for some without. There’s a plant-filled court-
its polvo (octopus), which you can try in yard and a sunny roof terrace with views.
several restaurants. Have a nose around the Very cheap in the low season.
fishers’ storage huts, where you’ll see them
mending nets. Boat trips also leave from the oCasa Beleza do Sul APARTMENT €€

waterfront here. (% 960 060 906; www.casabelezadosul.com; Rua

Dr Parreira 43; apt €90-120; W ) A gorgeous his-
2 Activities toric house in central Tavira is showcased to
full advantage in this beautiful conversion.
Passeios Ria Formosa BOATING
The result is a cute studio and three marvel-
(% 962 156 922; www.passeios-ria-formosa.com)
lous suites of rooms, all different, with orig-
Offers various boat trips in the Ria Formosa
inal tiled floors and modern bathrooms. All
 17 1
have a kitchenette and there are numerous Pousada Convento
thoughtful touches that put this well above de Tavira HISTORIC HOTEL €€€
the ordinary. Minimum stays apply. (% 210 407 680; www.pousadas.pt; Rua Dom Paio
The roof terrace and patio make sublime Peres Correia; d/superior d €175/210; paW s )
spots for relaxation. Located right in the historic part of town,
this elegant converted convent has attrac-
oTavira Inn GUESTHOUSE €€ tive and plush rooms – some with modern
(Casa do Rio; % 917 356 623; www.tavira-inn.com; four-poster beds – a pool and a pricey res-
Rua Chefe António Afonso 39; d €60-110; a W s ) taurant. It’s a stylish retreat that can offer
Run by a genial owner, whose artworks and real value in low season. Ask staff to show
offbeat design enliven things, this is a quirky you the excavations that have revealed the
spot nestled by the train bridge and in front remains of Moorish-era houses.
of the river. Comfortably rustic rooms come

Th e A lg a rv e Tav
in two categories; the upper ones have bal- Quinta da Lua BOUTIQUE HOTEL €€€
conies. There’s a delightful saltwater pool (% 281 961 070; www.quintadalua.com.pt; Ber-
and plenty of charm. Children are not nardinheiro, Santo Estevão; d/ste €205/275;
permitted. p a W s ) Peace and serenity are included
in the room rates at this tranquil convert-
Calçada Guesthouse GUESTHOUSE €€ ed manor house set among orange groves
(% 927 710 771, 926 563 713; www.calcadaguest

E at i r
4km northwest of Tavira. This delightful
house.com; Calçada de Dona Ana 12; r not incl place has eight bright and very stylish

n ag
breakfast €85-100; aWc ) Two British expats rooms set around a large saltwater swim-
renovated and run this stylish, centrally lo- ming pool. The extensive gardens feature
cated spot. It has bright, homey rooms and an outdoor lounge area. The superb break-
a gorgeous roof terrace for gazing out across fasts feature anything from homemade
Tavira’s rooftops. Breakfast costs €8.50, muesli to eggs.
and children are welcome. Minimum stays
sometimes apply. 5 Eating
Quinta do Caracol GUESTHOUSE €€ You can take your pick of eateries along the
(% 281 322 475; www.quintadocaracol.com; Rua do waterfront’s well-trodden taste-bud path,
São Pedro; s/d from €100/120; pa W s c ) S Rua Dr José Pires Padinha.
This unpretentious, rambling 17th-century A couple of reasonable, slightly more up-
farmhouse is set in a lovely garden, despite market restaurants are in Quatro Águas.
the surrounding suburban development. For tasty, alternative, off-the-beaten-track
Each of its apartments is uniquely kitted eating experiences, head to the fishing vil-
out with traditional Algarve furnishings lage of Santa Luzia, situated 3km southwest
and rustic artwork; all have kitchenettes. It’s of Tavira. Here, marisqueiras (seafood res-
child- and pet-friendly. taurants) serve up the local speciality, polvo
From Tavira’s train station, cross the rail- (octopus).
way and turn left at Rua de Sao Pedro. The Pastelaria Tavirense DESSERTS €
entry is 200m further on the left – look for (Rua Dr Marcelino Franco 17; pastries €0.50-3;
the blue-and-white arch. h 8am-midnight; a W ) Tavira’s most popu-
Tavira House Hotel BOUTIQUE HOTEL €€€ lar pastelaria, among locals at least, this
(% 281 370 307; www.tavirahousehotel.com; Rua Dr unmarked place serves up all the usual
Miguel Bombarda 47-49; d/ste €106/155; a W s ) custardy treats plus the full spectrum of
If this boutique number were an American Portuguese coffees in a busy, bright set-
movie icon, she’d be Zsa Zsa Gabor. It’s taste- ting, painted some unfortunate shades of
fully campish and the unique rooms beau- orange.
tifully incorporate the mansion’s original O Tonel PORTUGUESE €€
features. Each room is named after a flower, (% 963 427 612; Rua Dr Augo Silva Carvalho;
and the design reflects this in colour and mains €9.50-14; h noon-3pm & 7-11pm Wed-Mon)
quirky touches. Oh, and there’s even a tiny Gourmet-style food for a decent price is the
Roman-style dipping pool and a fabulous mantra at this new restaurant where tra-
roof terrace. ditional dishes such as codfish cataplana
It’s virtually unmarked, so keep a look out (stew) and grilled meat and seafood dom-
for the house number. inate the menu. Dishes are served with
17 2
hipster-esque imagination, though some this tiny, authentic place with its cordial
may not appreciate their food served on boss and range of ageing liqueur bottles
slates and in jars. under the Portugal scarves behind the bar.
It’s great for an ice-cold imperial (small
A Barquinha PORTUGUESE €€
draught beer) or a coffee, but it also puts
(Rua Dr José Pires Padinha 142; mains €7-13; on good-value salads, as well as toasts and
h noon-3pm & 7-10.30pm Thu-Tue) One of the
deli tapas.
better choices on this restaurant-heavy riv-
erside street, this cluttered, narrow eatery Tavira Lounge BAR
is hospitable and cosy. A Barquinha does (% 281 381 034; www.taviralounge.com; Rua
simple things well, with tasty salads and Gonçalo Velho 16-18; h noon-2am Mon-Sat Jun-
grilled local fish the way to go. You may Sep, reduced hrs Oct-May; W ) By day it’s a
have to try knocking at the door to be ad- cafe-restaurant, by night a cafe-bar. What-
Th e A lg a rv e Tav

mitted. ever it is, it’s cosy and a lovely place to chill

over delicious tapas snacks, or to kick back
Aquasul INTERNATIONAL €€
with a cocktail or a smoothie. Several invit-
(% 281 325 166; Rua Dr Augo Silva Carvalho 13; ing spaces ensure a long and comfortable
mains €11-19; h 6.30-10pm Tue-Sat; W v ) S visit.
You won’t hear too much Portuguese spo-
ken here, given this restaurant’s popular- Pessoa’s Cafe
Drin

BAR
ity among foreigners and expats, but this (Rua Jacques Pessoa 22; h 6pm-2am) A colour-
i rkai n g & N i g htl i fe

Dutch-run place serves up some tasty inter- ful, arty place with outdoor seating on the
national dishes in a cosy, art-and-mosaic- river bank, Pessoa’s has a menu of snacks,
filled setting. The owners make an effort to tapas and drinks. In the cooler months sit
source sustainably from the market. inside and admire the abstract oils that
are on the walls; in the summertime take
Restaurante O Ciclista PORTUGUESE €€
your drink outside for some south-facing
(% 281 325 246; www.restauranteociclista.pt; Rua sipping.
João Vaz Corte Real; mains €7-14, fish per kilogram
€25-55; h noon-3pm & 7-10pm; Wc ) Just be-
yond the N125 bridge, this isolated, barn-
3 Entertainment
like spot stands out on its own but pulls the oFado Com História FADO

local crowds. Seafood here is fresh, grilled (% 968 774 613; www.fadocomhistoria.wix.com;
and served by the kilo, and meat dishes are Rua Damião Augo de Brito Vasconcelos 4; €5; h 5
also well prepared. Good value and generous shows 10am-6pm Mon-Sat) If you’ve not had
portions. the pleasure of experiencing fado (tradi-
tional song) before, this comprehensive in-
6 Drinking & Nightlife troduction is very worthwhile. It’s popular
and there’s limited space, so try to buy your
Bars are found throughout town; most are
ticket a couple of hours ahead. The roughly
on the northern bank, with a couple along
30-minute show begins with an interesting
Rua Dr José Pires Padinha.
film about fado’s roots and history, followed
For a higher-velocity night, head to the
by three live songs with explanations in
mercado municipal, which hosts a row of
English.
dancier, pre-club bars that play music from
hands-in-the-air house to African. The area
buzzes in July and August.
7 Shopping
Casa do Artesão ARTS & CRAFTS
Sítio Cafe BAR (www.asta.pt; Calçada da Galeria 11; h 10am-1pm
(Largo do Trem; h 8am-midnight Mon-Sat; W ) & 2-5.30pm) S This handicrafts collective in
This is a popular local spot for a light lunch the heart of the old town makes a fine spot
or an evening drink, and one of the few plac- to shop for traditional basketware, cloth,
es with any atmosphere out of season. Di- ceramics and aguardente (distilled fruit
vided into three parts – outside, light-inside spirit).
and dark-inside – it has decent house wine
and does tasty toasted sandwiches. Mercado Municipal MARKET
(Av Dom Manuel I; h 8am-2pm Mon-Sat) S This
Tasca do Zé André BAR large, modern food market is near the bridge
(Rua João Vaz Corte Real 36; h 10am-midnight at the eastern edge of town.
Wed-Mon) It’s a real pleasure to drop into
 17 3

CACELA VELHA
Enchanting, small and cobbled, Cacela Velha is a huddle of bright-bordered white-
washed cottages. The town has a pocket-sized fort, orange and olive groves, and
gardens blazing with colour. It is located about 14km east of Tavira, above a gorgeous
stretch of sea, with a couple of excellent cafe-restaurants, splendid views and a me-
andering path down to the long, white beach. Busy in summer, it’s a very quiet retreat
during the rest of the year.
A kilometre by road from Cacela Velha, the waterside A Fábrica do Costa (% 281
951 467; www.fabricadocosta.pt; Sítio da Fábrica; mains €10-17; h noon-4pm & 7-10pm) has a
stunning setting and a magical outlook over the bobbing boats on the estuary and to the

Th e A lg a rv e Ilha
sand island beyond. The food is predictably maritime, with good seafood-rice dishes,
succulent oysters and a decent cataplana (seafood stew).
Unfortunately, there’s no direct bus from Tavira, but Cacela Velha is located only 1km
south of the N125 (2km before Vila Nova de Cacela; €1.80), which is on the Faro–Vila
Real de Santo António bus route.

I n f o rde
88 Information bikes. Staff members can give advice on great
rides in the area.
Banks with ATMs lie around Praça da República

mat
and Rua da Liberdade. TAXI

Tav
SOS Clinic (% 281 380 660; Rua Almirante Taxis (% 281 325 746, 281 321 544) A reliable

i oinr a
Cândido dos Reis 226; h 8am-midnight) rank is located on Rua Dr Marcelino Franco.
Private clinic. Between midnight and 8am doors
are closed, but ring in an emergency as there’s TOURIST TRAIN
an on-duty practitioner. Tourist Train (45min tour adult/child €4/3;
Turismo (% 281 322 511; www.visitalgarve.pt; h hourly 10am-midnight Jul & Aug, to 8pm Jun,
Praça da República 5; h 9am-6pm Mon-Wed, to 7pm Sep-May) Starts from the northern side
9am-1pm & 2-6pm Thu-Sat Sep-Jun, 9am- of Ponte Romana and visits the main sights.
6pm daily Jul & Aug) Provides local and some
regional information and has accommodation
listings.
I lha de Tavira
88 Getting There & Away Sandy islands (all part of the Parque Natu-
ral da Ria Formosa) stretch along the coast
BUS from Cacela Velha to just west of Faro, and
The bus station (% 281 322 546; Rua dos this is one of the finest. Made up of dunes,
Pelames) has the following services: gently shelving sand and a strip of wood-
Faro €4.30, one hour, seven daily. land, this is the Algarve at its best, a real
Lisbon €20, up to five hours, four to five daily. hideaway only reachable by boat. Beach
Huelva (Spain) €15, 1½ hours, twice daily. time and swimming are obvious attractions,
Seville (Spain) €19, three hours, twice daily. and you can even enjoy a camping holiday
Vila Real de Santo António €4.30, 40 min- on the island.
utes, six daily.
TRAIN
r Beaches
Ilha de Tavira BEACH
Trains run daily to Faro (€3.15, 35 minutes, hour-
The huge beach at Ilha de Tavira’s east-
ly) and Vila Real (€2.65, 30 minutes, hourly).
ern end, opposite Tavira, has water sports,
a campground (% 281 321 709; pitches per
88 Getting Around 1/2 people incl tent €12/17.50; h Jun-Sep) and
BICYCLE cafe-restaurants. Reached by ferry from
Abílio Bikes (% 281 323 467; www.abiliobikes. Quatro Águas, 2km from Tavira, the island
com; Rua João Vaz Corte Real 23; city bike per usually feels wonderfully remote and empty,
day/week €7/35; h 9.30am-1pm & 3-7pm Mon- but during July and August things get busy.
Sat Jun-Sep, closed Sat afternoon Oct-May) A kilometre west of the jetty is an unofficial
Tavira’s oldest bike shop rents out all kinds of nudist area.
 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd
174

JOHN HARPER / GETTY IMAGES ©

1. Praia da Galé 2. Praia da Dona Ana

3. Surfers, the Algarve 4. Praia da Marinha

BETSIE VAN DER MEER / GETTY IMAGES ©

 175

Beaches of the

JUAMPITER / GETTY IMAGES ©

Algarve
The Algarve’s extraordinary coastline –
stretching for over 150km along the
Atlantic ocean – is incredibly diverse, and
offers an abundance of enticing choices.
Small, secluded coves to wide stretches of
rugged, dune-backed shores. Simple rock-
backed nooks with calm waters (great for
kids) to rugged coasts with huge swells.
The coast’s varied geography changes
dramatically along its length and makes
for some quirky beachscapes. From Vila
Real de Santo António to the tiny village
of Cacela Velha, the beaches are a dune
system. The central coast sees kilometres
of limestone cliffs. Think eroded rock
towers, and plenty of nooks and caves.
The increasingly rocky coast, from Lagos
to Sagres, culminates in the wind-scoured
grandeur of the Cabo de São Vicente.
Here, dramatic black cliffs, bordered by
beautiful sandy stretches, head north along
the Costa Vicentina Natural Park. This
stretch is made for serious surfers.

Top 10 Beaches of the Algarve

HANS-PETER MERTEN / GETTY IMAGES ©

Our (highly subjective) picks include:

Odeceixe This beach has a river on one
side and the ocean on the other.
Praia da Falésia A posh ‘resort’ beach
backed by high ochre-hued cliffs.
Praia da Marinha Great snorkelling,
with a novel entry via a long staircase.
Meia Praia Vast, popular and scenic,
with options for water sports.
Praia do Barril Crown jewel of Ilha de
Tavira, with an anchor cemetery.
Ilha da Barreta (Ilha Deserta) Accessed
by boat through nature-filled lagoons.
Praia de Vale Figueira Long stretch of
wild, little-frequented coast.
Praia da Bordeira Wild untamed beauty
(with surfing).
Praia da Dona Ana & Praia do Camilo
Enchanting, golden rock formations.
Praia de Vale do Lobo Has all the
tourist services within reach and on tap.
176
Praia do Barril BEACH building, this family-home guest house has
(h train 8.30am-10pm Jun-Sep, 9am-5pm Oct-May) benevolent owners and small rooms, each of
From Pedras d’el Rei – a resort 4km southwest them very different, some with a terrace and
of Tavira – cross a narrow bridge to the Ilha very steep steps.
de Tavira, then walk 1.5km, or take the min-
iature train, to find a glorious beach and Villa Marquez HOTEL €€

the remnants of a fishing settlement, with (% 281 530 420; Rua Dr José Barão 61; s/d €55/70;
a bar-restaurant and a cemetery of anchors a W ) Two streets back from the waterfront,
from the former tuna-fishing fleet. near the bus station, this modern, yellow
place has bright and airy – if a little cramped –
rooms and a rooftop terrace with views over
88 Getting There & Away town. The best value in town, and substan-
Ferries make the five-minute hop to the ilha tially cheaper in low season.
Th e A lg a rv e V

(€1.80 return) from Quatro Águas, 2km south-

east of Tavira. Check with the crew when the last
one runs! In July and August they usually oper-
5 Eating
ate until midnight and can be very busy. oSem Espinhas Guadiana SEAFOOD €€
In addition to the local ferry, Sequa Tours (% 281 544 605; www.semespinhas.net; Avenida da
water taxi (% 966 615 071; www.sequatours. República 51; mains €12-23.50; h noon-10.30pm)
com/watertaxiservice.html) operates 24 hours One of four sister eateries in the area, this
Gett

a day from July to mid-September, and until

i la Real

large, clean-cut restaurant, done out in crisp

midnight from May to June. The fare from Quat- brown, white and blood-red livery, serves ex-
i n g T he

ro Águas-Tavira to the island is around €18 for cellent seafood such as razor clams, shrimp
five people. and octopus with gourmet-like panache.
A bus goes to Quatro Águas from the Tavira There’s a kids’ play area and a huge wine se-
derSea&n tAway

bus station from July to mid-September (eight lection; service, though slightly unsmiling, is
daily). A taxi to Quatro Águas costs around €5. efficient.
For Praia do Barril, take a bus from Tavira to
Pedras d’el Rei (10 minutes, around eight daily Os Arcos PORTUGUESE €€
o António

weekdays), from where the little train runs reg- (Avenida da República 45; mains €7-15; h lunch
ularly to the beach (it runs all year, though the & dinner) Unpretentious, with rows of ta-
timetable varies out of high season). bles under whitewashed arches (hence the
name), Os Arcos is a large eatery for holi-
daying Spanish and Portuguese families.
Vila Real de Santo There’s a 50/50 split between meat and fish
António on the menu, and service is efficient if typ-
Perched on the edge of wide Rio Guadiana, ically gruff.
low-key but pleasant Vila Real de Santo
António stares across into Spanish eyes. Its 88 Information
small pedestrian centre is architecturally Turismo (% 281 544 495; Avenida Marginal,
impressive: within five months in 1774, the Monte Gordo) The nearest tourist office is
Marquês de Pombal stamped the town with located in Monte Gordo, 4km away.
his hallmark gleaming grid pattern of streets
(like Lisbon’s Baixa district) after it was de- 88 Getting There & Away
stroyed by floods. The town’s square named
BOAT
in his honour – Praça Marquês de Pombal –
Ferries cross the river border every hour to
is the lively focal point of the centre, cobbles
whitewashed Ayamonte; buy tickets (adult/child
radiating out from a statue of King Don José €1.80/1.15) from the waterfront office (h 9am-
I, who was on the throne at the time of Pom- 6.30pm Mon-Sat, 9.15am-5.40pm Sun). Note:
bal’s efforts. The impressive fortress of Cas- there is a one-hour time difference between
tro Marim lies just to the north and the large, Portugal and Spain.
sandy Monte Gordo beach is 4km away.
BUS
4 Sleeping Buses (% 281 511 807; www.eva-bus.com)
service the following destinations:
Residência Matos Pereira GUESTHOUSE €
Faro €5.50, 1¾ hours, nine daily.
(% 281 543 325; www.residenciamatospereira.
com; Rua Dr Sousa Martins 57; s/d €25/40; a W ) Lisbon €20, 4¾ hours, around nine daily.
Contained within a conspicuously green Mértola €11, two hours, daily.
 17 7
Monte Gordo €2.25, seven minutes, at least A well-known medieval fair takes place in
twice hourly. and around the castle over the last weekend
Seville €18, 2½ hours, daily. in August.
Tavira €4.30, 40 minutes, nine daily.
Reserva Natural do Sapal de
TRAIN
Vila Real is the eastern terminus of the Algarve Castro Marim e Vila Real de
line. Trains run to Faro (€5.20, 70 minutes, 13 Santo António NATURE RESERVE

daily), where you may or may not have to change (h 9am-12.30pm & 2-5.30pm Mon-Fri) Estab-
to a connecting service to Lagos (€10.40, three lished in 1975, this nature reserve is Portu-
hours). gal’s oldest, covering 20 sq km of marshland
and salt pans bordering the Rio Guadiana
north of Vila Real. Important winter visitors
Castro Marim include greater flamingos, spoonbills and

Th e A lg a rv e C
POP 3200 Caspian terns; in spring it’s busy with white
Slumbering in the shadows of a 14th-century storks.
castle, Castro Marim is a picturesque vil- The park headquarters is 2km east of
lage that sees few foreign visitors. It has a the N122 from a signposted turnoff 1.5km
quaint, tree-shaded centre, a few cafes, and north of Castro Marim. Here there’s a 500m
impressive fortifications. These afford views walking trail with faded interpretative sign-

S iast
across the surrounding salt pans, the bridge boards.

g hts
to Spain and the marshes of the Reserva
88 Information

ro Marim
Natural do Sapal de Castro Marim, which is
famous for its flamingos. For walkers, there Turismo (% 281 531 232; Mercado Local, Rua
are some good trails around the area. It’s de São Sebastião; h 9am-1pm & 2-5pm) Small
3km north of Vila Real de Santo António. office housed in the the village’s tiny white-
washed market building.
1 Sights
Castelo FORT 88 Getting There & Away
(€1.10; h 9am-7pm Apr-Oct, to 5pm Nov-Mar) Buses from Vila Real run to Castro Marim
Castro Marim’s huge castle has an intrigu- (€2.25, eight minutes, eight daily) and go on to
ing borderland history. Much of the area Monte Francisco, a short distance north. Week-
was destroyed in the 1755 earthquake, but end buses are extremely limited. If coming from
the ruins of the main fort are still impres- the west by train, don’t get off at the station
sive. Inside the wonderfully derelict castle called Castro Marim – it’s miles from the village.
walls stands a 14th-century church, the Ig-
reja de Santiago, where Prince Henry the
Navigator is said to have prayed. A small A lcoutim
museum displays dusty artefacts dating POP 2900

back to the Iron Age. But it’s the views into Strategically positioned along the idyllic
Spain and across the salt flats that will stick Rio Guadiana, Alcoutim (ahl-ko-teeng) is a
in the memory. small village just across the river from the
In the 13th century, Dom Afonso III built Spanish town of Sanlúcar de Guadiana.
this castle over Moorish and Roman foun- What-are-you-looking-at fortresses above
dations in a dramatic and strategic position both villages remind visitors of testier
for spying on the Spanish frontier. In 1319 times. Phoenicians, Greeks, Romans and
it became the first headquarters of the reli- Arabs have barricaded themselves in the
gious military order known as the Order of hills here, and centuries of tension have
Christ, formerly the Knights Templar. Until bubbled across the river, which forms the
they moved to Tomar in 1334, they used this Algarve’s entire eastern boundary. In the
castle to keep watch over the estuary of the 14th century, Dom Fernando I of Portugal
Rio Guadiana and Spain. and Don Henrique II of Castile signed a
Most of the grand stretch of ruins today, tentative peace treaty in Alcoutim. Trag-
however, dates from the 17th century, when ically, today Alcoutim is struggling to stay
Dom João IV ordered the addition of vast on the map, its population slowly dimin-
ramparts. At the same time Forte de São Se- ishing. Nevertheless, it’s worth a quick visit
bastião, a smaller fort (closed to the public), if you’re passing between the Algarve and
was built on a nearby hilltop. Alentejo, even if just for the quirky riverside
beach and fascinating castle and churches.
17 8
1 Sights good for its grilled chicken, succulent steaks
Castelo CASTLE
and occasional fresh fish, and its setting
(€2.50; h 9.30am-7pm Apr-Sep, 8.30am-4.30pm
near the river.
Oct-Mar) The flower-ringed, 14th-century O Camané PORTUGUESE €€
castelo has sweeping views. Inside the (Rua 1 de Maio; mains €8-15; h lunch & dinner Wed-
grounds is the Núcleo Museológico de Mon) In the heart of things, this popular spot
Arqueologia (Archaeological Museum), is bursting with a range of Algarvian and
displaying ruined medieval castle walls and Alentejan dishes, including porco preto (Ibe-
other artefacts, and an exhibition on Islamic rian pig) and açorda (bread soup). There’s
board games. always a good selection of daily specials.
The entrance fee to the castle also in-
cludes entry to the tiny themed museums 88 Information
Th e A lg a rv e LS o

(núcleos museológicos) in Alcoutim and

Turismo (% 281 546 179; Rua 1 de Maio;
around.
h 9am-1pm & 2-6pm Tue-Sat) Located just
above the riverside, this office distributes maps
2 Activities and other information.
Praia Fluvial BEACH
(www.cm-alcoutim.pt) The main attraction for 88 Getting There & Away
most day trippers is this small riverside beach,
i guhts

Without your own wheels, Alcoutim is tricky to

equipped with sand, cafe, palm-leaf umbrellas reach. Bus services run to/from Vila Real de
lé

and even a very bored lifeguard! The setting Santo António (€4.25, 1¼ hours, one on Monday,
on a narrow tributary of the Rio Guadiana is Wednesday and Friday); on Monday and Friday
lovely, but in summer it’s baking hot. At the these go to/from Beja (around €5, two hours)
bridge, follow the signs to Praia Fluvial. via Mértola (50 minutes).
Inland Adventures BOATING
(% 922 173 183, 289 388 857; www.inland-adven
tures.com) This small Alcoutim-based com-
Loulé
POP 26,700
pany offers riverboat trips and bicycle tours
along the Rio Guadiana and in the sur- One of the Algarve’s largest inland towns,
rounding area. and only 16km northwest of Faro, Loulé
(lo-lay) is a reasonable base from which
4 Sleeping to explore the inland Algarve. A busy com-
mercial centre, it’s a fast-growing place in
Brisas do Guadiana GUESTHOUSE €
which service employees live while working
(% 967 531 064; visitaralcoutim@gmail.com; Rua (or seeking work) in the Algarve. Loulé has
do Bairro das Casas Pré-Fabricadas; s €35, d €40- an attractive old quarter and Moorish castle
45) Contrary to the odd street name (‘Pre- ruins, and its history goes back to the Ro-
fabricated Houses St’), this smart yellow mans. A few of Loulé’s artisan traditions still
place on top of the hill behind the castle of- survive; crafty folk toil away making wick-
fers spic-and-span rooms that are very well er baskets, copperworks and embroidery
maintained. in hole-in-the-wall workshops about town.
Pousada da Juventude HOSTEL € Loulé’s small university lends it some verve,
(% 281 546 004; www.pousadasjuventude.pt; dm as does its wild Carnaval and FestivalMed,
€13, d €35-40, apt €70; h reception 8am-noon & an annual music festival.
6pm-midnight; aiWs ) On the river, 1km
north of the square, past the new town, is 1 Sights
this well-appointed hostel, a cluster of ran- Mercado Municipal MARKET
dom whitewashed buildings with an excel- (Praça da Republica; h 6.30am-3pm Mon-Sat)
lent pool and kitchen facilities, plus bikes Loulé’s most impressive piece of architectur-
and canoes for rent. Look for the white dome. al heritage is its art-nouveau market, a 1908
revivalist neo-Arab confection with four
5 Eating oriental-looking cupolas at the four corners
O Soeiro PORTUGUESE € and Moorish features picked out in raspber-
(% 281 546 241; Rua do Município 4; daily specials ry red against cream walls. Inside it’s a mix
€6.50-10.50; h lunch Mon-Fri) A cheap and of blood-and-guts fish market, cheap cafes
cheerful lunch spot, this family-run place is and local produce such as orange-blossom
 17 9

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æ Sights ú Eating
1 Mercado Municipal................................. D2 7 Bocage......................................................D2
2 Museu Municipal..................................... C2 8 O Beco.......................................................D2
3 Nossa Senhora da Conceição............... C2
û Drinking & Nightlife
ÿ Sleeping 9 Café Calcinha...........................................C2
4 Casa Beny.................................................C1 10 Poeta Caffe...............................................C2
5 Hospedaria Dom Fernando ................... C3 11 Taberna dos Frades ................................C2
6 Loulé Jardim Hotel .................................. A1

honey, fig ‘cheese’ (not cheese at all) and Cliff 4.30pm Sat) Housed in Loulé’s restored cas-
Richard’s wine. tle, the archaeology section at this museum
takes it right from the beginning: Homo
Nossa Senhora da Conceição CHAPEL
erectus kicks things off, and via dusty col-
(Rua Dom Paio Peres Correia; h 9.30am-5.30pm lections of pottery and bone we arrive at
Tue-Fri, to 4pm Sat) Situated opposite Loulé’s the Roman and Islamic periods. Medieval
castle, and dating from the mid-17th cen- house ruins can be viewed under a glass
tury, the small chapel of Nossa Senhora da floor, and the admission fee includes entry
Conceição possesses three impressive ele- to a stretch of square-towered castle walls
ments: a heavily gilded baroque altar, floor- and the Cozinha Tradicional Algarvia, a
to-ceiling azulejos (hand-painted tiles) and re-creation of a traditional Algarve kitchen,
a whitewashed stucco ceiling. During ex- featuring a hearth, archaic implements and
cavations, an Islamic door dating from the burnished copper.
3rd century was uncovered under the floor,
where it now remains, protected by glass. 2 Activities
Museu Municipal MUSEUM Almargem WALKING
(Castelo; % 289 400 600; www.cm-loule.pt; Lar- (% 289 412 959; www.almargem.org) The envi-
go Dom Pedro I; €1.62; h 10am-6pm Tue-Fri, to ronmental group Almargem is responsible
1 80
for the Via Algarviana and welcomes visitors Bocage PORTUGUESE €
on its (free) Sunday walks. (Rua Bocage 14; mains €6-10; h 11am-10pm Mon-
Sat) On a quiet corner of a sedate lane just
z Festivals & Events off the main drag, this likeable family-run
Carnaval de Loulé CARNAVAL traditional restaurant serves up solid plates
(www.cm-loule.pt; h Feb or Mar) Just before Lent, of fish and meat in a wood-rich dining room.
Loulé shimmies into something sexy and se- All food is freshly cooked; get here early at
quinned, with parades, tractor-drawn floats lunchtime, as it fills up fast with locals.
and lots of musical high jinks. Friday is the
children’s parade and Sunday’s the big one. 6 Drinking & Nightlife
Poeta Caffe BAR
FestivalMed MUSIC
(Rua Vice Almirante Cândido dos Reis 19; h 1pm-
(www.festivalmed.pt; h late Jun) This world-
Th e A lg a rv e LF o

4am Mon-Sat; W ) With a lovely patio under

music festival has gained a reputation as a the shade of trees, this friendly bar has a
quality event and now attracts strong line- sweet old-town location and a great local
ups of international performers. scene. It’s the best place to sip a gin and ton-
ic on a hot evening in Loulé.
4 Sleeping
Casa Beny GUESTHOUSE € Taberna dos Frades BAR
(www.facebook.com/taberna.dosfrades; Rua
est

(% 967 936 067, 289 417 702; casabeny.g@gmail.

u liévals & E ve n ts

com; Rua São Domingos 13; d €50-55; a W ) On Condestável Dom Nuno Alvares Pereira; h 8.30am-
the central roundabout in a pleasantly re- 2am Mon-Fri, 3pm-2am Sat; W ) Decorated in
stored mansion dating from 1897, Casa Beny comfortably rustic style, this is a rather won-
offers nine peachy rooms, each with Brazil- derful place serving good wine by the glass,
ian hardwood floors, a touch of ’80s-style decent mixed drinks and a range of tapas.
pine, tall ceilings and French doors. The It regularly hosts live-music nights, and the
rooftop terrace has castle views. atmosphere is nearly always great.

Loulé Jardim Hotel HOTEL €€ Café Calcinha CAFE

(% 289 413 095; www.loulejardimhotel.com; Praça (% 289 415 763; Praça da República 67; W )
Manuel D’Arriaga 25; s/d €79/99, d with terrace Loulé’s oldest cafe is a replica of an old Bra-
€109; paWs ) A late-19th-century building zilian coffee shop, opened in 1928 and virtu-
with spacious, tasteful, airy rooms, this well- ally unchanged since. Closed at the time of
run place overlooks a pretty square. Book research, this important piece of the town’s
ahead for a terrace. There’s a small outdoor heritage is certain to reopen soon, and you’ll
pool with sunloungers, and breakfast is a once again be able to enjoy a brew at one of
substantial affair. Prices are normally much the period marble-topped tables.
lower than the high-season prices listed here.
88 Information
Hospedaria Dom Fernando GUESTHOUSE €€
Turismo (% 289 463 900; www.visitalgarve.
(% 289 415 553; Travessa do Mercado; s/d €45/65; pt; Avenida 25 de Abril 9; h 9am-6pm) Staff
aW ) Despite its mere ‘hospedaria’ rating, availability determines whether this helpful
this sound choice offers simple, fairly up-to- office stays open over lunchtime.
date rooms in an excellent location behind Biblioteca Municipal de Loulé (www.cm-loule.
the market. There’s a great restaurant on the pt; Rua José Afonso; h 2.30-7pm Mon, 9.30am-
premises, staff members are friendly and the 7pm Tue-Fri, 10am-5.30pm Sat mid-Sep–mid-
continental breakfast includes fresh fruit. Jun, 9.30am-7pm Mon-Fri mid-Jun–mid-Sep;
W ) Library with free internet.
5 Eating
O Beco PORTUGUESE € 88 Getting There & Away
(Travessa do Beco; mains €6-10; h noon-3pm & If you’re arriving by train, note that the station is
7-9pm Mon-Sat) There’s no gourmet nonsense 5km southwest of town (take any Quarteira-
at this Portuguese eatery, with its platters of bound bus).
filling meat and fish, and its striking interior Daily bus (% 289 416 655; Rua Nossa Senhora
of whitewashed walls, dark-timber ceiling de Fátima) connections head to the following
and tiny, neatly laid tables. Hearty soup, towns:
grilled critter (with wine), custardy dessert, Albufeira €4.30, 55 minutes, five daily.
coffee – you’re done.
 181
Faro €3.25, 40 minutes, hourly weekdays, There wasn’t much work around, either, so
fewer at weekends. three local women decided to learn a craft
If you’re heading to Portimão on a weekday, and put the building to use. It’s now a work-
change at Albufeira. At weekends there are four shop where they make charming wooden
direct buses (€5.50, 1½ hours). Express buses toys, and it’s a heart-warming place to visit.
head to Lisbon (€20, four hours, four to five From Alte, head up the hill, past the Hotel
daily). Alte on the road to Santa Margarida, then
take a left turn.
88 Getting Around
Parking can be tricky in Loulé – park on the edge Pólo Museológico de Salir MUSEUM

of town. (Largo Pedro Dias, Salir; h 9am-1pm & 2-5pm Mon-

Fri) F Within the area encompassed by
what remains of Salir’s ruined castle, this

Th e A lg a rv e S
Serra do Caldeirão little museum displays local archaeological
finds and offers tourist information.
Lying around 30km north of Loulé is the
wonderful region of Serra do Caldeirão, Pólo Museológico Cândido
a beautiful protected area of undulating Guerreiro e Condes de Alte MUSEUM
hills, cork trees and harsh scrubland. The (% 289 478 058; Rua Condes de Alte, Alte; h 12.30-
area is renowned for its bird varieties. It’s 3pm Mon-Fri) F This museum–cultural

Gett
e r r iandgoA C
an excellent place to hike – the Via Algar- space pays homage to Alte’s famous poet,
viana passes through – and a great spot to Cândido Guerreiro, along with the Counts of
base yourself to meander through some Alte who once lived here. It displays books
ancient villages and enjoy the local cui- and paraphernalia and also offers tourist

r alde
sine. A feature of the region is its fontes information.

o u n di r ã o
(traditional water sources, many of which
comprise exquisite taps and fountains), 4 Sleeping
highlighted by signs that have been erected Quinta do Coração GUESTHOUSE €
over the years. (% 289 489 959; www.algarveparadise.com; Car-
rasqueiro; s/d €35/55, self-catering studios €60,
Alte & Salir 2-person cottages €65; pW s ) S The setting
of this converted farmhouse in Carrasquei-
Perched on a hillside on the edge of the
ro (7km east of Salir) is lovely: on a wooded
Serra do Caldeirão, Alte, located 45km
hill, encircled by a eucalyptus, olive-grove
northwest of Loulé, is a quaint and very
and cork-tree paradise. This ain’t your
pretty little village. In high season visitors
gleaming white-tiled experience: the rooms,
are disgorged from buses for a quick-see
studios and cottage (with kitchenette) are
experience. Boasting flower-filled streets,
whitewashed buildings and several fontes
(traditional water taps and streams), it’s a
pleasant place to wander for an hour or so.
The fontes were traditionally used for the WALKS IN THE SERRA DO
mills and former wells; a main fonte, Fon- CALDEIRÃO
te Grande, passes through dykes, weirs and The most worthwhile short walk in the
watermills. Artesanatos (handicrafts shops) area is to climb Rocha da Pena, a
are dotted around town, as are several res- limestone rock between Alte and Salir,
taurants and cafes. off the N124, by means of a well-sign-
If travelling by car, pass through the posted 4.7km circuit (follow the road
small, sleepy and attractive town of Salir. It’s signs to the mountain). A return walk
a pleasant, very authentic village set on two takes about two to three hours. The
hills, with castle walls dating from the 12th museums in Salir, Alte and Querença
century and an attractive church. (p182) usually stock a basic map-guide.
Carry water and snacks; there’s a
1 Sights small shop-cafe at the base and another
Fábrica de Brinquedos WORKSHOP in Pena village but no other refreshment
(Torre/Tôr; h 9am-1pm Mon-Fri) S The school stops for miles. Note fire-danger times –
in this hamlet near Alte had fallen into dis- bushfires occur in this area.
use because there weren’t enough children.
1 82
rough and rustic, in a pleasant sort of way. 88 Getting There & Away
It’s on the Via Algarviana. Buses depart Loulé for Alte (€3.60, 45 min-
oB&B Candelária B&B €€
utes, twice daily on weekdays) and Salir
(% 969 097 399; www.casa-candelaria.com; Mon- (€2.45, 30 minutes, six daily on weekdays,
te Seco; s/d/f €55/70/105; p W ) A labour of one Saturday).
love by the delightful multilingual owner
has created an enchanting place to stay in Querença
this hill village a few kilometres north of Though perhaps a little over-restored, this
the N270. Five petite rooms are rustic and is one of the region’s prettiest villages, with
comfortable, with thick adobe walls provid- whitewashed buildings set around a square
ing natural coolness. Upstairs are a lovely dignified by a lovely church.
deck and a great guest kitchen-lounge area.
Th e A lg a rv e A

There are plenty of good walks herea-

If you can’t relax here you’d better see a bouts; you can grab maps at the Pólo Muse-
medic. ológico da Água.
Quinta do Freixo FARMSTAY €€
Pólo Museológico da Água MUSEUM
(Casa d’Alvada; % 289 472 185; www.quintado (% 289 422 495; h 9am-1pm & 2-5pm Mon-Fri)
freixo.org; Benafim; s/d/ste €48/65/78; p W s ) F This small, modern museum, located
E at

S This pleasant place, a converted barn, is on the square, has a model of a waterwheel
lb iunfe

located on a functioning farm well known as well as information panels (in Portu-
for producing traditional foodstuffs. From guese) on water use. There’s also a tour-
g ira

the pleasant communal areas you can look ist office here, and it holds the keys to the
out to see farm animals without leaving the church opposite. Despite official opening
complex’s green lawns and swimming pool. hours, you’ll often find staff members here
The 10 comfortable rooms feature Alentejan at weekends.
(painted wooden) furniture. Don’t rely on its
being open if you haven’t booked. Tasquinha do Lagar PORTUGUESE €
It’s about 3.5km north of the roundabout (Rua da Escola; mains €8.50-10; h lunch & din-
in the centre of Benafim. Popular with small ner Thu-Tue) On the left as you come to the
European groups. village proper, this place offers hearty, no-
frills country cooking with valley views.
5 Eating Dishes change daily but regularly feature
Agua Mel CAFE € heart-warmers such as lamb stew.
(www.facebook.com/aguamel; Largo José Cava-
co Veira, Alte; pastries €1-4; h 9am-7pm; W )
Alte doesn’t have great restaurants, but it A lbufeira
makes up for it with this cafe. An exceed- POP 40,800
ingly friendly place, it has a lovely outlook Once a scenic fishing village, Albufeira has
and turns out absolutely scrumptious cakes, all but lost the vestiges of its past – fishing
pies and other sweet treats; it does the odd boats are now moored at the ultramodern
savoury snack, such as toasted sandwiches, marina southwest of the centre. These
too. The boss is a good source of local info days, the place is devoted to mass-market
and the coffee is excellent. tourism; the old town – with its pretty cob-
blestone streets and Moorish influences –
Monte da Eira PORTUGUESE €€ is concealed by gaudy signs, English menu
(% 289 438 129; www.restaurantemontedaeira. boards and rowdy bars. It is the destina-
com; Clareanes; mains €12-18; h 12.30-2.30pm tion for cheap package deals, mainly cater-
& 7-10.15pm; W v c ) On Rte 396, 5km north ing to Brits and Germans and focused on
of Loulé in the village of Clareanes, is this cheap food, ale and beach fun for the kids.
smart restaurant, housed in the stables of But even if this isn’t your sort of place,
a converted threshing mill, with several don’t give up on Albufeira – it has good
rooms and two outdoor terraces. People transport links to lovely beaches, such as
come from afar to feast on dishes of jav- Praia da Galé to the west, there are heaps
ali (wild boar), lamb and bean casserole, of activities to enjoy and there’s a relaxed
and stewed rabbit. To top it off, pick from a holiday atmosphere away from the British
wine list of hundreds. pubs. To explore the pretty inland villages
 183
and the area’s high-quality restaurants, you 2 Activities
will need your own transport. Krazy World WATER PARK

1 Sights (% 282 574 134; www.krazyworld.com; Algoz;

adult/child €13/8; h 10am-6pm or 6.30pm
Museu de Arte Sacra MUSEUM Mar-Oct, plus most weekends Nov-Feb) Near
(Praça Miguel Bombarda; €2; h 10.30am- São Bartolomeu de Messines, about 17km
4.30pm & 8-11pm Jul & Aug, 10.30am-4.30pm northwest of Silves, this much-touted ani-
Sep-Jun) This tiny museum is housed in the mal and crocodile park also has minigolf,
beautifully restored 18th-century Chap- ponies and two swimming pools and is a
el of San Sebastian and exhibits sacred diverting day away from the beach for kids.
art from the surrounding churches that Transport is available from Albufeira and
survived the 1755 earthquake. The main other resorts.

Th e A lg a rv e A
eye-catchers are the gilded wooden altar
and the old azulejos (hand-painted tiles) Dolphins Driven BOATING
along the walls. (% 913 113 094; www.dolphins.pt; Marina de Al-
bufeira; tours adult/child €35/20) Offers three
Museu Municipal de Arqueologia MUSEUM excellent excursions from Albufeira: a 2½-
(www.cm-albufeira.pt; Praça da República 1; €1; hour exploration of the local sea caves and
h 9.30am-12.30pm & 1.30-5.30pm Tue, Sat & dolphin-watching; dolphin spotting off the

S ilb
Sun, 9.30am-5.30pm Wed, 2-10pm Thu & Fri Apr- coast; and a kayak trip into the local caves.

g hts
Sep, slightly shorter hours Oct-Mar) This small

u fe i r a
museum showcases items excavated from z Festivals & Events
the municipality and surrounds (such as Fiesa ART
the castle in the village of Paderne). Pieces (www.fiesa.org; h mid-Mar–Oct) On the beach
date from the prehistoric era to the 16th at Armação de Pêra, this is the biggest
century. Highlights include a beautiful- sand-sculpture contest in the world. Artists
ly complete Neolithic vase from 5000 BC are given 40,000 tons of sand to play with
and a Roman mosaic from Retorta. The and their truly amazing creations can be ad-
upper floor hosts interesting temporary mired throughout the season.
exhibitions.

r Beaches 4 Sleeping
Dianamar GUESTHOUSE €€
Albufeira became as popular as it did due to (% 289 587 801; www.dianamar.com; Rua Latino
its beaches of sharp, red-gold sand. Praia do Coelho 36; s/tr €50/75, d €60-65; h Apr-Oct; W )
Peneco, through the tunnel near the turis-
Happily a little removed from the central
mo, is usually head-to-toe with sunloungers. hubbub, but very close to the beach, friend-
East and west of town are beautifully rug- ly Dianamar has lovely details such as fresh
ged coves and bays, though the nearest are flowers, and attractive rooms, many with
heavily developed and often crowded. These balconies and two with sea views. Excellent
include Praia da Oura, at the bottom of ‘the and very generous breakfasts and after-
Strip’ 3km to the east and accessible by the noon teas are on offer. It’s best to reserve
blue (azul) line bus (catch it above the es- ahead.
calators by the old fishing quarter); Praia
da Falésia, a long beach 10km to the east; oVila São Vicente BOUTIQUE HOTEL €€€
Balaia and Olhos de Água. Buses run to (% 289 583 700; www.hotelsaovicentealbufeira.
Olhos de Água (10 minutes, half-hourly), com; Largo Jacinto D’Ayet; d €120-155; ai W s )
mostly continuing to Praia da Falésia (20 This peaceful, classically decorated boutique
minutes). hotel has 25 handsome rooms with pol-
One of the best beaches to the west, ished-wood floors, helpful staff, and a great
Praia da Galé, about 6km away, is long back deck and pool area. Most rooms have
and sandy, not so crowded and a centre for small balconies; rooms are naturally cheap-
jet-skiing and waterskiing. Eva buses run er on the landward side. A welcome relief
to Praia da Galé (€2.25 one way, 20 min- from the town’s theme-park atmosphere,
utes, seven daily) or the red line (bus 1 or and great value in low season. No children
2) heads there every half-hour in summer are allowed.
(€1.40).
184
Vila Joya RESORT €€€ 88 Information
(% 289 591 795; www.vilajoya.com; Estrada da Galé;
small d from €310, d from €470; p a i W s ) TOURIST INFORMATION
Vila Joya is a luxury resort and spa close Municipal Tourism Office (% 289 515 973;
to Albufeira yet a planet away in every re- www.cm-albufeira.pt; Estrada de Santa Eulália
spect, located right on the beachfront near N395; h 9am-6pm Mon-Fri) Helpful local
tourist office with maps and info; on one of the
Praia da Galé. Pool areas, lush green lawn,
main entrance roads into town.
views of the sea and a health spa create an
Things To Do (% 966 130 256; Avenida da
ultra-plush and relaxing experience. If your Liberdade 63; h 10am-midnight Mar-Oct) A
purse strings don’t stretch to staying here, handy one-stop shop for booking any experi-
consider a meal at the excellent restaurant. ence in the Albufeira area, including all theme
parks, dolphin watching, bike hire and 4WD
5 Eating safaris.
Th e A lg a rv e A

Veneza PORTUGUESE €€ Turismo (% 289 585 279; www.visitalgarve.pt;

(% 289 367 129; www.restauranteveneza.com; Es- Rua 5 de Outubro 8; h 9.30am-7pm Jul & Aug,
trada de Paderne 560A, Mem Moniz; mains €10-20; 9am-6pm Sep-Jun) Algarve Tourism office; by
h 12.30-3pm Wed-Mon, 7.30-10.30pm Thu-Tue; W )
the tunnel that leads to the beach.
This restaurant is famed for serving what
many consider to be the Algarve’s finest 88 Getting There & Away
E at
lb iunfe

cataplana (seafood stew) – here, a delicious BUS

pork and clam combination – but in truth The main bus station (% 289 580 611; Rua Paul
g ira

almost all of its dishes taste so good you’ll Harris) is 2km north of town. Passengers trav-
want to return. It also has one of the region’s elling to Lisbon can purchase tickets at a more
finest cellars. It’s 11km north of Albufeira; conveniently located bus shop (Avenida da
you’ll need a car to get there. Liberdade 27; h 6.45am-7.45pm Mon-Fri, from
8am Sat & Sun), outside of which buses leave for
Casa da Fonte PORTUGUESE €€ the main bus station (€1.40) every 30 minutes
(Rua João de Deus 7; mains €6.50-18.50; h noon-mid- from 7am to 10pm.
night) A short uphill walk from the turismo, Faro €4.70, 1½ hours, half-hourly.
this popular place serves everything from Lagos €5.50, one hour 20 minutes, 12 daily.
sandwiches to scabbard fish in a beautiful Lisbon €20, three hours, six daily.
courtyard lined with azulejos (hand-painted
Loulé €4.30, 40 minutes, seven daily.
tiles) and set around a lemon tree. The staff
Silves €4.30, 40 minutes, seven daily.
are friendly, and the atmosphere is relaxed
and more authentically Portuguese than at Buses also head to Huelva in Spain (€16, three
hours, via Faro), and on to Seville (€20, four
many of Albufeira’s other eateries.
hours).
oVila Joya Restaurant MODERN EUROPEAN €€€ TRAIN
(% 289 591 795; www.vilajoya.com; Estrada da Galé; Services from Albufeira:
degustation menu €175; h sittings 1-1.45pm & 7.30-
Faro €3.30, 30 minutes, nine daily.
8.45pm; W ) Run by Austrian expat chef Di-
Lagos €4.80, 1¼ hours, nine daily.
eter Koschina, this is one of Portugal’s best
fine-dining restaurants, located in the Vila
Joya resort (p183). Koschina draws on a varie- 88 Getting Around
ty of culinary influences and sources the best To reach the train station, take the ‘giro’ city bus
Portuguese produce to create dishes of rich (€1.40). The giro (red line; bus 1 or 2) also leaves
elegance. There’s excellent service to match. half-hourly for Praias de São Rafael, Galé and
Guia (€1.40). These depart from the top of the
Dom Carlos PORTUGUESE €€€ escalators above the fishing quarter. Blue-line
(% 289 541 224; Rua Alves Correia 100; 5-course buses head to Praia Ouro, though you return on
menu €49; h from 7.15pm Wed-Sun) If you want the green line.
to splash out a bit but walk back to your For car hire, try one of the following.
hotel, the Dom Carlos has the best dining Auto Jardim (% 289 580 500; www.auto-jardim
in town. The elegant but intimate interi- .com; Edifício Brisa, Avenida da Liberdade)
or dressed in white and baby blue feels a Auto Prudente (% 289 542 160; www.auto-
world away from the central feeding frenzy, prudente.com; Estrada de Santa Eulália, Edi-
and the five-course menus are a taste-bud fićcio Ondas do Mar, Loja 1)
delight.
 185

THE ALGARVE FOR KIDS

The Algarve is a fun, kid-focussed area with loads of attractions, family-friendly beaches
and cultural activities. Try thrilling water parks such as Slide & Splash (p186) and
Krazy World (p183); the great zoo (% 282 680 100; www.zoolagos.com; Quinta Figueiras;
adult/child €16/12; h 10am-7pm Apr-Sep, to 5pm Oct-Mar; c ) in Lagos; and, at Silves, the
imagination-firing castle (p187).
There are some excellent museums, too: in São Brás de Alportel there’s a simple cork
display in the Museu do Traje (p163), and in Portimão the wonderful Museu de Por-
timão (p189) re-creates a former fish cannery.
Many towns along the coast run boat trips, and several have little trains.
Albufeira is particularly child friendly, with a plethora of agencies in the area selling a

Th e A lg a rv e C
variety of trips, from horse riding to cruising on pirate ships. Most boat trips leave from
the marina. Other kid-oriented activities include the following:
Albufeira Riding Centre (% 961 269 526; www.albufeiraridingcentre.com; Vale Navio
Complex) On the road to Vilamoura. Offers one- to three-hour horse rides for all ages and
abilities.
Aqualand (% 282 320 230; www.aqualand.pt; N125, Sítio das Areias, Alcantarilha; adult/child

A ct
a r ivvoi te i es
€22.50/16.50; h 10am-6pm Jul-Sep, to 5pm from mid-Jun) Huge loop-the-loop slide and
rapids.
Aquashow (% 289 315 129; www.aquashowparkhotel.com; Quarteira; adult/child €29/19;

ro
h 10am-7pm Aug, to 6.30pm Jul, to 5.30pm Jun & Sep, to 5pm May) In Quarteira, 10km east of
Albufeira, with parrots, reptiles and a wave pool.

get off at Colina Sol Aparthotel, the Moorish-

Carvoeiro style clifftop hotel.
POP 2700
Praia da Marinha BEACH
Carvoeiro is a cluster of whitewashed
One of a few nearby beaches with karstic
buildings atop tawny, gold and green cliffs
rock stacks, this is perhaps the most beau-
and backed by hills. Shops, bars and res-
tiful. As it’s also a little hard to get to, it
taurants rise steeply from the small arc of
can be low in crowds, though these things
beach that is the focus of the town, and be-
are relative in summer. It’s 8km southeast
yond lie hillsides full of sprawling holiday
of Lagoa, but the nicest way to get to it is
villas. This diminutive seaside resort 5km
via the Percurso dos Sete Vales Suspensos
south of Lagoa is prettier and more laid-
path.
back than many of the bigger resorts, but
its size means that it gets full in summer.
2 Activities
r Beaches Percurso dos Sete Vales
Suspensos WALKING
The town’s handkerchief-sized sandy beach,
This spectacular clifftop walk connects the
Praia do Carvoeiro, is surrounded by the
beaches east of Carvoeiro. Beginning at
steeply mounting town. About 1km east on
Praia Vale Centianes, 2.3km east of town, it
the coastal road is the bay of Algar Seco,
heads 5.7km to Praia da Marinha, with its
a favourite stop on the tour-bus itinerary
picturesque rock stacks, via the beach at Be-
thanks to its dramatic rock formations.
nagil. It’s one of the Algarve’s most memo-
If you’re looking for a stunning swimming
rable walks.
spot, continue east along the main road,
Estrada do Farol, to Praia de Centianes, Divers Cove DIVING
where the secluded cliff-wrapped beach is al- (% 282 356 594; www.divers-cove.com; Quinta do
most as dramatic as Algar Seco. Buses head- Paraíso; 3hr introduction €80, 1-day discovery €135,
ing for Praia do Carvalho (nine per day 2-day scuba dive €270, 4-day open water €450;
weekdays and three per day on weekends h 9am-7pm) This multilingual family-run
from Lagoa, via Carvoeiro) pass nearby – diving centre provides equipment, dives and
PADI certification.
1 86
Slide & Splash WATER PARK established place has an outdoor terrace and
(% 282 340 800; www.slidesplash.com; Estrada is known for its seafood and grilled dishes.
Nacional 125; adult/child 5-10yr €27/19; h 10am- It’s about 500m up the main road east of
5pm, 6pm or 6.30pm daily May-Sep, Mon-Sat Apr & Carvoeiro beach.
Oct) Touted across the Algarve, this popular
place is 2km west of Lagoa. It’s widely con- 6 Drinking & Nightlife
sidered Portugal’s best; visitors rave about Restaurante Boneca Bar BAR
the sheer quantity of attractions, including (% 282 358 391; h 10am-midnight) Hidden in
slides, toboggans and more. There’s enough the rock formations out at Algar Seco, just
here to keep kids and adults entertained for over 1km east of the beach in Carvoeiro, this
most of a day, though with no family ticket long-standing place is a novel spot for a cock-
available it can be quite an expensive outing. tail, a great venue to be at sunset, and a decent
Th e A lg a rv e S ileep

Golf retreat for a light meal or beer at any time.

Golfers can take their pick: there’s the
Pestana Gramacho (% 282 340 900; www. 88 Information
pestanagolf.com) and Pestana Vale da Pin- The post office and several banks are located on
ta (% 282 340 900; www.pestanagolf.com), both Rua dos Pescadores (the one-way road in from
at Pestana Golf Resort; and Vale de Milho Lagoa).
(% 282 358 502; www.valedemilhogolf.com; Praia Turismo (% 282 357 728; h 9am-1pm & 2-6pm
lvesi n g

do Carvoeiro) near Praia de Centianes. Tue-Sat) Just back from the beach in the centre
of town.
4 Sleeping
Casa Luiz GUESTHOUSE €
88 Getting There & Away
(% 282 354 058; www.casaluiz.com; Rampa da Nos- Buses run on weekdays between Carvoeiro and
sa Senhora da Encarnação; d/studios/apt not incl Portimão (€3.25, 35 minutes, eight daily) and
breakfast €70/80/95; aW ) These four clean Lagoa (€2.25, 10 minutes, 14 daily).
and modern rooms and studios (with kitch-
enette) all overlook the beach and face the 88 Getting Around
sunset. Three of the rooms have balconies. Several car-rental agencies are located along
the road back to Lagos. Parking is difficult in
oO Castelo GUESTHOUSE €€ summer – you are best to head to Estrada do
(% 919 729 259; www.ocastelo.net; Rua do Casino Farol and walk.
59; d without view €65, with view €90-110; a W )
West of the bay, this standout guest house
with a welcoming and justifiably proud Silves
owner is fully renovated and gleamingly POP 11,000
well maintained. Rooms are most inviting; Silves is an attractive town of jumbling or-
some share a large terrace and sea views ange rooftops scattered above the banks
(with sunrises), and one has a private bal- of the Rio Arade. It boasts one of the best-
cony. This property gets all the details right, preserved castles in the Algarve, attractive
the breezy decor complementing the refract- red-stone walls and winding, sleepy back-
ed light from the glittering sea. streets on a hillside. Not much happens
around town, but it’s a good base if you’re af-
5 Eating ter a less hectic, non-coastal Algarvian pace.
Le Crô Portugal PORTUGUESE € It’s 15km northeast of Portimão.
(Estrada do Farol 77; tapas €5-7, mains €6-12; h 11am-
10pm) Run by a friendly couple, this tiny tapas History
and wine place turns out some of Carvoeiro’s The Rio Arade was long an important route
tastiest Portuguese food and stocks a con- into the interior for the Phoenicians, Greeks
noisseur’s selection of wine. The hosts are and Carthaginians, who wanted the cop-
friendly, knowledgeable and committed to per and iron action in the southwest of the
providing such a great experience that you’ll country. With the Moorish invasion from
come back a second time. Many do. the 8th century, the town gained promi-
A Marisqueira SEAFOOD €€
nence due to its strategic hilltop, riverside
(Estrada do Farol 95; mains €12-25; h noon- site. From the mid-11th to the mid-13th cen-
2.30pm & 6.30-10pm Mon-Sat) This simple, well- turies, Shelb (or Xelb), as it was then known,
 1 87
rivalled Lisbon in prosperity and influence: russet-coloured, Lego-like castle – original-
according to the 12th-century Arab geogra- ly occupied in the Visigothic period – has
pher Idrisi, it had a population of 30,000, a great views over the town and surrounding
port and shipyards, and ‘attractive buildings countryside. What you see today dates most-
and well-furnished bazaars’. ly from the Moorish era, though the castle
The town’s downfall began in June 1189, was heavily restored in the 20th century.
when Dom Sancho I laid siege to it, support- Walking the parapets and admiring the vis-
ed by a horde of (mostly English) crusaders, tas is the main attraction, but you can also
who had been persuaded (with the promise gaze down on the excavated ruins of the
of loot) to pause in their journey to Jeru- Almohad-era palace. The whitewashed 12th-
salem and give Sancho a hand. The Moors century water cisterns, 5m deep, now host
holed up inside their impregnable castle, temporary exhibitions.
but after three hot months of harassment

Th e A lg a rv e S i lves
they ran out of water and were forced to sur- Museu Municipal de Arqueologia MUSEUM
render. Sancho was all for mercy and hon- (% 282 444 838; Rua das Portas de Loulé; adult/
our, but the crusaders wanted the plunder under 10yr €2.10/free, joint ticket with Castelo
they were promised, and stripped the Moors €3.90; h 10am-6pm) Built tight against the
of their possessions (including the clothes defensive walls, this archaeological muse-
on their backs) as they left, tortured those um has a mix of finds from the town and
remaining and wrecked the town. around. The modern building was construct-

g hts
Two years later the Moors recaptured the ed around an 18m-deep Moorish well with a
town. It wasn’t until 1249 that Christians spiral staircase heading into the depths that
gained control once and for all. But by then you can follow for a short stretch. Otherwise
Silves was a shadow of its former self. The this is another Algarve museum that starts
silting up of the river – which caused disease at the prehistoric beginning but soon moves
and stymied maritime trade – coupled with on to focus on the Almohad period of the
the growing importance of the Algarvian 12th and 13th centuries.
ports hastened the town’s decline. Devasta- Casa da Cultura Islâmica e
tion in the 1755 earthquake seemed to seal Mediterrânica ARTS CENTRE
its fate. But in the 19th century, local cork (% 282 440 895; www.cm-silves.pt; Largo da Repú-
and dried-fruit industries revitalised Silves, blica) Even if there is no exhibition, lecture
hence the grand bourgeois architecture or performance taking place here, it’s still
around town. Today tourism and agriculture worth the 600m walk west of the centre to
are its lifeblood. view this wonderfully restored neo-Moorish
cultural centre, built with art-nouveau flour-
1 Sights ish in 1914.
oSé CATHEDRAL
(Rua da Sé; €1; h 9am-12.30pm & 2-5pm Mon-Fri, 2 Activities
9am-1pm Sat Jun-Aug) Just below the castle is Country Riding Centre HORSE RIDING
the sé (cathedral), built in 1189 on the site (% 917 976 992; www.countryridingcentre.com;
of an earlier mosque, then rebuilt after the 1/3hr rides €40/80; h 9am-1pm & 3.30-7pm Mon-
1249 Reconquista and subsequently restored Sat) Located about 4km east of Silves, left off
several times following earthquake damage. the road to Messines (it’s signposted), this
In many ways, this is the Algarve’s most im- riding centre offers lessons and hour-long to
pressive cathedral, with a substantially unal- half-day rides for all levels.
tered Gothic interior. It’s dramatically high
and simple inside, with elegant vaulting, z Festivals & Events
beautiful windows and several fine tombs. Feira Medieval HISTORICAL
The Christ sculpture, the Senhor dos Passos, (www.cm-silves.pt; h mid-Aug) Held over a
is one of the main processional figures of the week each August (precise dates vary annu-
town’s Easter celebrations. ally), the Medieval Fair brings the Silves of
oCastelo CASTLE
old to life. The town’s important events and
(% 282 440 837; adult/concession/under 10yr people are represented, from Silves governor
€2.80/1.40/free, joint ticket with Museu Municipal Al Muthamid to the town being awarded its
de Arqueologia €3.90; h 9am-8pm Jun-Aug, to charter. Bawdy costumes, dances, jesters,
6.30pm Mar-May & Sep-Nov, to 5pm Dec-Feb) This feasts, traditional food and handicrafts all
evoke life in the 11th to 13th centuries.
188
4 Sleeping Marisqueira Rui SEAFOOD €€
(% 282 442 682; www.marisqueirarui.com; Rua
Casa das Oliveiras INN €
Conselheiro Vilarinho 27; mains €10-16.50; h noon-
(% 282 342 115; www.casa-das-oliveiras.com;
11pm Wed-Mon) Situated in the old town, with
Montes da Vala; s €45-53, d €55-65; p W s )
a unfancily dated interior of yellow and cork,
This welcoming, peaceful place offers an
this place is Silves’ finest seafood restaurant.
old-style B&B with a British flavour, with
Join the locals – it gets busy – and savour
five great-value rooms in a relaxed setting.
plates from cockles, clams and crabs to bass
There’s a lovely garden and pool area. It’s
and seafood rice. You can dine cheaply on
4km from Silves train station and a little
bream or sea bass here, or blow the budget
tricky to find: grab the map or GPS coordi-
on a crustacean feast.
nates from the website. No cards.
Café Inglês INTERNATIONAL €€
Quinta da Figueirinha
Th e A lg a rv e S ileep

INN €
(% 282 442 585; Rua do Castelo 11; mains €10-23;
(% 282 440 700; www.qdf.pt; 2-/4-/6-person apt
h 9am-5.30pm Mon, to midnight Tue-Sun Mar-Oct;
from €55/89/129; pWs ) S This 36-hectare
W v ) Located below the castle entrance,
organic farm and botanic garden, run by a
Café Inglês has a wonderful, shady terrace.
kindly agronomist, offers simple apartments
The food is excellent (don’t miss the choco-
in peaceful farm-like surroundings. Or-
late St Emilion dessert). One of the Algarve’s
chards (with more than 50 species of plant)
liveliest restaurants north of the coast, it
are yours for picking and wandering. Leave
lvesi n g

boasts an elegant interior, and has live jazz,

Silves and cross the bridge, taking the first
fado (traditional song) and African music at
left to Fragura then continue for 4km. You
weekends.
can self-cater, or there’s a basic restaurant
serving delicious, wholesome buffet-style oRestaurante O Barradas PORTUGUESE €€€
food. (% 282 443 308; www.obarradas.com; Palmeirinha;
Duas Quintas INN €€
mains €8.50-25; h 6-10pm Thu-Tue; c ) S The
(% 282 449 311; www.duasquintas.com; Santo Es- star choice for foodies is this delightful con-
tevão; d/studios €105/130; pWs ) Set among verted farmhouse run by Luís and his Ger-
orange groves and rolling hills, this utter- man wife, Andrea. They take pride in careful
ly charming converted farmhouse has six sourcing, and use organic fish, meat and
pleasant rooms, a living space, terraces and fruit in season. Luís is a winemaker, so you
a pool. Some of the furniture is antique and can be assured of some fine wines. Follow
there are big discounts for staying a week the road to Lagoa and then to Palmeirinha;
or more. It’s 6km northeast of Silves along it’s 3km from Silves.
the N124.
88 Information
5 Eating Centro de Interpretaçao do Património
Pastelaria Rosa CAFE, DESSERTS € Islâmico (% 282 440 800; Largo do Município;
h 9am-1pm & 2-5pm Mon-Fri) This interesting
(Largo do Município; pastries €1.50-3; h 7.30am-
little spot promotes the network of Islamic
10pm Mon-Sat; W ) On the ground floor of the
routes through Portugal, Spain and Morocco
town-hall building, this quaint, tile-lined and also acts as the municipal tourism office.
place is Silves’ oldest cafe and the best place Knowledgeable overseer Miguel knows a lot
to try Algarvian sweets. The table service is about the town and its Islamic cultural heritage.
excellent and the extra you pay for the cof- It contains a small but interesting exhibition on
fee and cakes here is worth it for the loca- traditional mud-brick production.
tion and atmosphere. It’s next to the tourist Turismo (% 282 098 927; www.visitalgarve.
office. pt; Parque das Merendas; h 9am-1pm & 2-6pm
Tue-Sat) Next to the main car park and bus
Recanto dos Mouros PORTUGUESE €€ stops.
(% 282 443 240; www.recantodosmouros.com; Rua
Estrada do Monte Branco; mains €9-14; h lunch & 88 Getting There & Away
dinner Thu-Tue) Situated 1km or so behind the
castle (follow the signs), this is one of Silves’ BUS
most popular places. As the Portuguese at- There are no direct buses between Lagos and
test, it’s bom preço-qualidade (damn good Silves; change at Portimão (40 minutes).
value) for lots of hearty Algarvian delights. Albufeira €4.30, 45 minutes, four to seven
daily.
 1 89
Portimão €3.30, 20 minutes, five to nine daily. focuses on three areas: archaeology, un-
For Faro you must change at Lagoa (€4.50). All derwater finds and, the most fascinating,
buses leave from the riverfront. a re-creation of the fish cannery (mackerel
and sardines). You can see former produc-
TRAIN
tion lines, complete with sound effects –
The train station is located 2km south of the clanking and grinding and the like. An ex-
town, but you’ll need to take a local bus (three cellent video (in Portuguese) of the fishing
to five daily) or catch a cab, as it’s along a major industry reveals each step in the process,
highway.
from netting the shoals to packaging.
Train services from Silves:
Lagos €2.90, 35 minutes, nine daily.
Faro €5.15, one hour, nine daily.
2 Activities
Operators galore line the riverside prom-

Th e A lg a rv e P
enade offering boat trips. These include
88 Getting Around cruises up the coast and/or the Rio Arade,
Much of the hilly, compact centre of Silves is visiting caves along the way. Prices start
easily navigated on foot; many streets are pedes- at around €30. There are also dolphin-
trianised areas only. Drivers are advised to park in spotting opportunities. Some trips are in
the large car parks on the city side (north) of the fishing boats for 10 people, others are in
river and southwest of the city centre (no charge). sailing boats for 35.

Gett
o r ti n
Santa Bernarda BOATING
Portimão (% 967 023 840; www.santa-bernarda.com; adult/

mgã oA r o u n d
POP 55,600 child from €35/20) Santa Bernarda runs trips
Bustling Portimão is the western Algarve’s visiting the caves and coast on a 23m wood-
main commercial centre and the second- en sailing ship with wheelchair access and
most-populous city in the Algarve. Those a pirate theme. The full-day trip includes a
expecting a gritty port town will be disap- beach barbecue and time to swim.
pointed/relieved – the centre is a small,
friendly hub with a pleasant waterfront, an z Festivals & Events
assortment of outdoor cafes, and sizzling Festival da Sardinha FOOD
fish restaurants in the old quarter and quay- (www.festivaldasardinha.pt; h mid-Aug) A cel-
side. You can also arrange a boat trip up the ebration of Portugal’s favourite fish, the
Rio Arade. Most people only pass through sardine, with associated music, dance and
en route to Praia da Rocha. festivities.

History 4 Sleeping
Portimão was an important trading link Alameda Hostel HOSTEL €
for Phoenicians, Greeks and Carthaginians (% 968 696 499; www.alamedahostel.com; Rua do
(Hannibal is said to have visited). The Ro- Comércio 9; dm €20; a W ) Right in the heart
mans called it Portos Magnus and it was of the city centre, this new hostel is basic,
fought over by Moors and Christians. In 1189 clean and bright, and puts you within easy
Dom Sancho I and a band of crusaders sailed walking distance of everything. There are
up the Rio Arade from here to besiege Silves. two funky kitchens for self-caterers.
Almost destroyed in the 1755 earthquake,
it regained its maritime importance in the Globo Hotel HOTEL €€

19th century. It became the region’s fishing (% 282 405 030; www.hoteisalgarvesol.pt; Rua 5
and canning centre before this, too, declined. de Outubro 26; r €97; a W ) Rooms here have
a snazzy design, with contemporary fittings
1 Sights and abundant natural light. Each floor has a
colour scheme, from lilac to green. It’s cen-
oMuseu de Portimão MUSEUM
tral and rates more than halve outside July
(www.museudeportimao.pt; Rua Dom Carlos I;
and August.
adult/child €3/free, 10am-2pm Sat free; h 2.30-
6pm Tue, 10am-6pm Wed-Sun Sep-Jul, 7.30-11pm
Tue, 3-11pm Wed-Sun Aug) The ultra-modern,
5 Eating
award-winning Museu de Portimão, housed Casa da Isabel PATISSERIE €

in a 19th-century fish cannery, is one excel- (Rua Direita 61; pastries €1-5; h 9am-midnight Jul
lent reason to visit Portimão. The museum & Aug, to 8pm Sep-Jun; W ) This delightfully
190
elegant little tearoom is housed in a cute, 88 Getting There & Away
tile-fronted mansion and churns out a
mouth-watering array of desserts, of a type BUS
traditionally invented and made by nuns in Local bus 33 shuttles between Praia da Rocha
convents. Although it serves a range of teas and Portimão’s Largo do Dique (€1.50) every
and infusions, most prefer coffee to go with half-hour. The walk is miserable, passing the de-
serted port and convent ruins en route, though
their tooth-rotters.
many do it.
Carvi SEAFOOD €€ To head further afield, Portimão has excellent
(% 282 417 912; Rua Direita 34; mains €8-14.50; bus connections. Frota Azul (www.frotazul-
h noon-midnight Wed-Mon) Famous here­ algarve.pt) has services to Monchique (€4.30,
abouts for its seafood, Carvi is a short walk 45 minutes, six to eight daily), Silves (€3.25, 35
minutes, five to nine daily) and Lagos (€4.10, 40
down Rua Direita from the turismo. Ser-
Th e A lg a rv e P

minutes, hourly).
vice isn’t always as warm as it could be, but
Eva buses leave from near the petrol station
the quality of the food, served at commu-
along the riverside on Avenida Guanaré. Servic-
nal rows of tables dressed in white linen, es include.
makes up for it. There’s also a very long
Albufeira €4.60, one hour, at least hourly.
wine list.
Cabo São Vicente €6.35, 1½ hours, one daily.
Clube Naval do Portimão Faro €5.50, 1¾ hours, seven daily.
Dr a

PORTUGUESE €€
(Restaurante do Cais; % 282 432 325; Zona Lagos €4, 35 minutes, hourly.
i ni ak ida

Ribeirinha; mains €13.50-17; h noon-3pm & Lisbon €20, 3¼ hours, six daily.
7-11pm Tue-Sun; W ) Near the municipal mu-
n g R&oNcha

Loulé €5.50, 1¾ hours, five services, weekends

seum on the waterfront, the Naval Club only.
has a fancy upstairs restaurant with un- For Sagres and Salema you must change in
surpassed views over the water. Go for the Lagos.
i g htl i fe

fish of the day, tuna steaks, or skewers. The

downstairs cafe is great for a coffee or beer TRAIN
waterside. Eight daily trains connect Portimão with Tunes
(€2.95, 45 minutes). Change at Tunes for Lisbon.
6 Drinking & Nightlife Services also go to Silves (€1.50, 20 minutes,
nine daily) and Lagos (€2, 20 minutes, 11 daily).
Taska Porta Velha BAR
(% 918 053 169; Travessa Manuel Dias Barão; tapas BOAT
€5-10; h 10pm-4am Mon-Sat; W ) This atmos- Until fairly recently Portimão was the departure
pheric bar has been lovingly restored and point for a ferry that serviced Madeira and the
decorated, with antique knick-knacks and Canary Islands (by all accounts a harrowing
modern artworks spread throughout several ordeal on the open Atlantic lasting days). There
rooms. Tables are made of wood and stone have been rumblings recently that this heavily
slabs; it’s petiscos (tapas/snacks) and drinks subsidised service might be restarted.
only. Head up the road opposite Rua Direita
number 63. 88 Getting Around
If you have your own wheels, the easiest parking is
3 Entertainment a free riverside area by the Repsol petrol station.
Bar Marginália LIVE MUSIC
(Rua Arco Maravilhas; h 9pm-2am Tue & Wed, to
3am Thu, to 4am Fri & Sat; W ) This charismatic Praia da Rocha
backstreet bar is one of Portimão’s best loca- POP 200

tions for live music, with weekend concerts Five minutes’ drive from Portimão, Praia da
(normally on the heavier side of the spec- Rocha has one of the Algarve’s best beach-
trum), plus Thursday karaoke sessions. es, backed by ochre-red cliffs and the small
16th-century Fortaleza da Santa Catarina.
88 Information Behind the beach looms the town; this
has long known the hand of development,
Turismo Municipal (% 282 402 487; www.
with high-rise condos and luxury hotels
cm-portimao.pt; Plaza 1 de Dezembro;
h 9.30am-5.30pm Mon-Fri) Portimão’s infor-
sprouting along the cliffside, and a row of
mation office is housed in the wonderful Teatro restaurants, bars and clubs packed along
Municipal de Portimão (‘Tempo’). the main thoroughfare. If you look hard
beyond the concrete facade, Praia da Ro-
 191
cha has several vestiges of an elegant past, Marisqueira
including some 19th-century mansions, Praia da Rocha PORTUGUESE €€
which are now atmospheric guest houses. (Rua Bartolomeu Dias; mains €8.40-20; h 10am-
There’s also the sleek Marina de Por- 11pm Mon-Sat) An unusually traditional res-
timão, painted autumnal colours (to match taurant for Praia da Rocha, this popular,
the cliffs), and a well-known casino where low-key place opposite Algarve Mor hotel
you can fritter away your holiday money. offers decent Portuguese fare, with a hearty
array of daily specials. The exotic fish in
the aquariums are not for consumption.
4 Sleeping
Accommodation is almost impossible to find 6 Drinking & Nightlife
during the high season if you don’t have a Praia da Rocha bristles with bars that are
prior reservation.

Th e A lg a rv e LS a
packed with sun-reddened British faces,
satellite TV, live music and karaoke. Many
Albergaria Vila Lido GUESTHOUSE €€
are owned or run by foreign residents. These
(% 282 241 127; www.hotelvilalido.com; Avenida
and the town’s plethora of Irish pubs are
Tomás Cabreira; d €100-150; aW ) Near the
open all day (and nearly all night).
fort, this sturdy white-with-blue-trim hotel is
housed in a converted 19th-century mansion Nana’s Bar BAR
and features super-welcoming hosts and (Rua José Bivar; h 2pm-4am; W ) The best bar

leep
g o si n g
bright, optimistic rooms, most of which have in town by some distance, Nana’s has much
a verandah and sea views. Breakfast is served more local character than the others, pours
on the terrace overlooking the Atlantic. better drinks and keeps it real with Portu-
guese lingua franca.
Bela Vista BOUTIQUE HOTEL €€€
(% 282 460 280; www.hotelbelavista.net; Avenida
Tomás Cabreira; r €270-410, ste €450-550; h Mar- 88 Information
Nov; p a i W s ) This beautiful spot – a Turismo (% 282 419 132; Avenida Tomás
renovated former mansion with two mod- Cabreira; h 9am-6pm) Large office strategi-
ern wings – adds a touch of class to Praia cally positioned on the strip.
da Rocha. Portuguese interior-design team
Graça Viterbo has gone to town here, using
a quirky blend of contemporary and an- Lagos
tique, all in a blue-and-yellow colour theme. POP 22,000

It’s uber-luxurious yet not so snobby you As far as touristy towns go, Lagos (lah-
can’t sneeze, and professional yet fun. goosh) has got the lot. It lies along the bank
The restaurant is open to the public and of the Rio Bensafrim, with 16th-century
is worth checking out. Prices are significant- walls enclosing the old town’s pretty, cob-
ly lower outside high season. bled lanes and picturesque piazzas and
churches. Beyond these lies a modern but
5 Eating not overly unattractive sprawl. The town’s
The marina has a row of romantic, up- good restaurants and the range of fabulous
market dining and drinking spots, some nearby beaches add to the allure. With
of which stare across at the beautiful Praia every activity under the sun (literally) on
Meia Grande. In summer, grab a sundowner offer, plus a pumping nightlife, it’s not sur-
at one of the beachside eateries. prising that people of all ages are drawn
here.
F Restaurante PORTUGUESE €€ Aside from its hedonistic appeal, Lagos
(% 919 115 512; Avenida Tomás Cabreira; mains has historical clout, having launched many
€13-20; h 3-10.30pm Mon-Sat; W ) A large and naval excursions during Portugal’s extraor-
rather cheeky Facebook-style ‘F’ on a pink dinary Age of Discoveries.
background (and possibly a tout) greet you
at this classier-than-most-here restaurant History
on the strip. There are super views over the Phoenicians and Greeks set up shop at
beach and a quality menu of Portuguese this port (which later became Roman La-
dishes; service can’t be faulted. A rare treat cobriga) at the mouth of the muddy Rio
is the cataplana (seafood stew) for solo din- Bensafrim. Afonso III recaptured it from
ers (normally it’s only for two to share). the Moors in 1241. In 1415 a giant fleet set
 192

Lagos e
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sail from Lagos under the command of the sale of Africans as slaves to Europeans, and
21-year-old Prince Henry the Navigator to the town grew into a slave-trading centre.
seize Ceuta in Morocco, thereby setting the It was also from Lagos in 1578 that Dom
stage for the Age of Discoveries. Sebastião, along with the cream of the Por-
The shipyards of Lagos built and launched tuguese nobility and an army of Portuguese,
Prince Henry’s caravels, and Henry split his Spanish, Dutch and German buccaneers,
time between his trading company here and left on a disastrous crusade to Christianise
his navigation school at Sagres. Local boy North Africa, which ended in a debacle
Gil Eanes left Lagos in 1434 as commander at Alcácer-Quibir in Morocco. Sir Francis
of the first ship to round West Africa’s Cape Drake inflicted heavy damage on Lagos a
Bojador. Others continued to bring back in- few years later, in 1587.
formation about the African coast, along with Lagos was the Algarve’s high-profile cap-
ivory, gold and slaves. Lagos has the dubious ital from 1576 until 1755, when the earth-
distinction of having hosted (in 1444) the first quake flattened it.
 193

Lagos
æ Sights 12 Dom Vinho II.............................................C4
1 Igreja de Santo António ......................... C4 13 Mimar Café...............................................B3
2 Museu Municipal..................................... C4
û Drinking & Nightlife
Ø Activities, Courses & Tours 14 Bon Vivant ................................................C3
3 Lagos Surf Center................................... C4 15 Eddie's Bar ...............................................C3
16 Garden ......................................................B4
ÿ Sleeping 17 Grand Café ...............................................C3
4 Hotel Mar Azul......................................... C2 18 Inside Out .................................................B4
5 Inn Seventies........................................... B2 19 Red Eye Bar..............................................B3
6 Old Town Hostel...................................... C3 20 Stevie Ray's Blues Jazz Bar...................C3
21 Taberna de Lagos....................................C3

Th e A lg a rv e LS a
ú Eating
7 A Forja ...................................................... B2 ý Entertainment
8 Arribalé..................................................... C2 22 Centro Cultural ........................................C4
9 Café Gombá............................................. B3
10 Casinha do Petisco................................. B3 þ Shopping
11 Cervejaria Dois Irmãos........................... C4 23 Owl Story ..................................................B3

i gghts
1 Sights landscapes and portraits, minerals and crys-

os
Lagos is planning to open a museum ded- tals, coins, china, miniature furniture, Ro-
icated to the slave trade in the old slave man mosaics, African artefacts, stone tools,
market. Ask at the tourist office (p197) to see model boats, and an intriguing model of an
whether this is up and running when you imaginary Portuguese town. The museum is
visit. also the entry point for the baroque Igreja
de Santo António.
Igreja de Santo António CHURCH
(Rua General Alberto da Silveira; adult/child incl mu- r Beaches
seum €3/1.50; h 10am-12.30pm & 2-5.30pm Tue- Meia Praia, the vast expanse of sand to the
Sun) This little church, bursting with gilded, east of town, has outlets offering sailboard
carved wood, is a stupendous baroque ex- rental and waterskiing lessons, plus several
travaganza. Beaming cherubs and ripening laid-back restaurants and beach bars. South
grapes are much in evidence. The dome and of town the beaches – Batata, Pinhão, Dona
azulejo (hand-painted tile) panels were in- Ana and Camilo, among others – are small-
stalled during repairs after the 1755 earth- er and more secluded, lapped by calm wa-
quake. Enter the church from the adjacent ters and punctuated with amazing grottoes,
Museu Municipal. coves and towers of coloured sandstone. An
informal boat service shuttles back and forth
Ponta da Piedade VIEWPOINT
from the waterfront in Lagos to Meia Praia.
(Point of Piety) Protruding south from Lagos,
Ponta da Piedade is a dramatic wedge of
headland. Three windswept kilometres out
2 Activities
of town, the point is well worth visiting for Water Sports
its contorted, polychrome sandstone cliffs Lagos is a popular surfing centre and has
and towers, complete with lighthouse and, good facilities; surfing companies head to
in spring, hundreds of nesting egrets. The the west coast for the waves.
surrounding area is brilliant with wild or-
chids in spring. On a clear day you can see Lagos Surf Center SURFING

east to Carvoeiro and west to Sagres. The (% 282 764 734; www.lagossurfcenter.com; Rua da
only way to reach it is by car or on foot. Silva Lopes 31; 1-/3-/5-day courses €55/150/225)
Will help you catch a wave and head to where
Museu Municipal MUSEUM there are suitable swells. Children must be
(% 282 762 301; Rua General Alberto da Silveira; accompanied by a family member over 14
adult/concession €3/1.50; h 10am-12.30pm & years of age. It also rents out wetsuits (€5
2-5.30pm Tue-Sun) Lagos’ town museum, an per day) and boards (€15 to €25) and offers
old-fashioned but lovably curious collection, beach kayaking and paddle-boarding trips.
holds a bit of everything: swords and pistols,
194
Windsurf Point WINDSURFING scenic trips to full-on technical rides with
(% 282 792 315; www.windsurfpoint.com; Bairro shoots, drops and jumps.
1 Maio, Meia Praia; h 9am-7pm) Offers wind-
surfing courses (beginners full day €190) at Tiffany’s HORSE RIDING

Meia Praia, along with kitesurfing, paddle-­ (% 282 697 395; www.teamtiffanys.com; Vale Gri-
boarding, board rental (per hour/day €35/ fo, Almádena; h 9am-dusk) Seven kilometres
70) and a shop. west of Lagos, this outfit charges €33 for an
hour’s horse riding. Other options include a
Kayak Adventures KAYAKING three-hour trip (€85) and an all-day forest
(% 913 262 200; www.kayakadventureslagos.com; trip that includes a luxury picnic (€140).
3hr tour €25) Offers kayaking trips, including
snorkelling, from Batata Beach. 4 Sleeping
Old Town Hostel HOSTEL €
Th e A lg a rv e LS a

Blue Ocean DIVING

(% 964 665 667; www.blue-ocean-divers.de) For (% 282 087 221; Rua da Barroca 70; dm €23;
i W ) If you’re in town to party, this highly
those who want to go diving or snorkelling.
Offers a half-day discovery experience (€30), rated hostel is the place to sleep it all off
a full-day dive (€90) and a Divemaster PADI during the day. Located in atmospheric
scuba course (€590). It also offers kayak sa- Rua da Barroca, it has kitchen, terrace and
faris (half-/full day €30/45, children under small common room, but the dorms are a
little cramped and often full. The friendly
leep

12 half price).
g o si n g

staff is more than willing to show you the

Axessextreme KAYAKING best bars.
(% 919 114 649; www.axessextreme.com; 3hr tour
€25) Offers recommended sea-kayaking oInn Seventies GUESTHOUSE €€

trips in the Algarve as well as mountain bik- (% 967 177 590; www.innseventies.com; Rua
ing and surfing. Marquês de Pombal; d €90-129; paW s )
Though the entrance and stairwell don’t
Boat Trips & Dolphin Safaris give a great first impression, the rooms here
Numerous operators have ticket stands at are sexy suites with a vaguely ’70s theme.
the marina or along the promenade oppo- They come well equipped with big TV, fridge
site. They operate a bit like sausage factories and Nespresso machine, and there’s a nice
but offer some fun outings. Local fishers of- rooftop deck with views and plunge pool.
fering jaunts to the grottoes by motorboat The central location is fabulous and prices
trawl for customers along the promenade include the town’s best buffet breakfast.
and by the Fortaleza da Ponta da Bandeira.
oHotel Mar Azul GUESTHOUSE €€
Bom Dia BOATING (% 282 770 230; www.hotelmarazul.eu; Rua 25 de
(% 282 087 587; www.bomdia-boattrips.com) The Abril 13; s €50-60, d €60-85; ai W ) This little
oldest operator, and based at the marina, gem is one of Lagos’ best-value spots. It’s a
Bom Dia runs trips on traditional schooners, central, well-run and delightfully welcoming
including a five-hour barbecue cruise with a place, with tidy, modern, compact rooms,
chance to swim (adult/child €49/25), a two- some even boasting sea views. The simple
hour grotto trip (adult/child €25/10) and a breakfast is a mean €5 extra.
family fishing trip (adult/child €40/25).
Albergaria Marina Rio HOTEL €€
Dizzy Dolphins BOATING (% 282 780 830; www.marinario.com; Avenida
(% 938 305 000; www.dizzydolphin.com) Run dos Descobrimentos; s €100-125, d €103-128;
by a former BBC wildlife-documentary pro- p a i W s ) Overlooking the harbour, this
ducer, this small outfit offers excellent 90- hotel has comfortable rooms with smart
minute summer dolphin-spotting trips on a modern decor and balconies. On the down-
rigid inflatable. side, it faces the road and backs onto the bus
Other Activities station. Most rooms are twins. There’s a tiny
pool and roof terrace.
Mountain Bike Adventure CYCLING
(% 918 502 663; www.themountainbikeadventure. Vila Galé Lagos RESORT €€€
com; Porta da Vila; rides €20-55) Bike fanat- (% 282 771 400; www.vilagale.com; Meia Praia; s/d
ics will have some fun with this company, from €168/198; p a Ws ) This large place,
which offers a range of outings from shorter part of a national chain, offers all the crea-
ture comforts for resort-loving visitors and
 195
business clients. Everything seems to come
in multiples – pools, restaurants, activities WALKING ACROSS
and zeros (as in the price, but deals are THE ALGARVE
available).
If you like a good walk, by far the best
5 Eating way to appreciate the magnificent land-
Café Gombá CAFE €
scapes of the inland Algarve is to hike
(% 282 762 188; Rua Cândido dos Reis 56; h 8am- part (or all) of the 300km Via Algarvi-
7pm Mon-Sat, Sun mid-Jun–mid-Sep; a ) Although ana (www.viaalgarviana.org) that crosses
around since 1964, this traditional cafe- the region from northeast to southwest.
bakery with 21st-century decor looks more Some of the most beautiful sections are
like it opened in 2016. Elderly locals hang out around Monchique, where splendid vis-
tas open up as you climb through cork

Th e A lg a rv e LE a
here for the best cakes, coffees and sandwich-
es in town, and it’s correspondingly cheap. groves to the Algarve’s highest hilltops.
Download route information on the
Bar Quim PORTUGUESE € website; grabbing the GPS points is
(Meia Praia; mains €7-12; h 10am-10pm Fri-Wed; also a good idea, as signposting isn’t
W ) Around for decades, this is perhaps the always clear. The official Via Algarviana
best of the sand-side eateries on Meia Praia. route booklet (€7) is available from the
It’s a fair stroll along the beach, but it’s well Algarve Tourist Association’s tourist

atgionsg
worth it for the welcoming service, delicious offices.
fish soup and toothsome prawns sizzled in The best two-day taster of the trail is
butter and garlic. to stay in Monchique, walk up to Picota
and back one day, and up to Fóia and
Mimar Café CAFE €
back the next.
(Rua António Barbosa Viana 27; snacks €3.50-8.50;
h 8am-midnight Mon-Sat Jun-Aug, to 10pm Sep-
May; W ) One of the town’s best-value casual
Arribalé PORTUGUESE €€
eateries, Mimar is excellent for coffees and
(% 918 556 618; www.arribale.com; Rua da Bar-
breakfasts, plus home-baked meals (accom-
roca 40; mains €9.50-19.50, tapas around €5;
panied by scrumptious salads). Daily lunch
h 7pm-midnight Tue-Sat) Tucked away on an
specials are great deals for around €4. There’s
atmospheric street, this super-compact
an attached pastelaria (pastry and cake
place offers a short, simple menu of mostly
shop) and by night it’s a tapas and wine bar.
salads and grilled meat, though it also does
oA Forja PORTUGUESE €€ a vegetarian dish of the day. The owners
(% 282 768 588; Rua dos Ferreiros 17; mains €8- are friendly, quality is high, and there’s an
17.50; h noon-3pm & 6.30-10pm Sun-Fri) Like an appealing, homey vibe. There aren’t many
Italian trattoria, this buzzing adega tipica tables, so it’s worth booking.
pulls in the crowds – locals, tourists and ex- O Camilo SEAFOOD €€
pats – for its hearty, top-quality traditional (Praia do Camilo; mains €8-15; h 10am-10pm; W )
food served in a bustling environment at Just north of Ponta da Piedade, perched on
great prices. Plates of the day are always re- the cliffs above pretty Praia do Camilo, this
liable, as are the simply prepared fish dishes. place is synonymous with excellent seafood
Dom Vinho II INTERNATIONAL €€ dishes. Specialities such as clams, sea bream
(Rua Lançarote de Freitas 18; mains €8.50-24; and tuna steak are on offer daily. The setting
h 12.30pm-1.30am Mon-Sat, 7pm-1.30am Sun; W ) is light, bright and airy, and there’s a large
Removed from the main-street bustle where terrace. This is definitely a place to linger.
its parent restaurant stands, this elegant Casinha do Petisco SEAFOOD €€
upstairs dining area boasts solid dark-wood (Rua da Oliveira 51; mains €8-14.50; h 10am-3pm
furniture and a refined feel. Service is truly & 6-10.45pm Mon-Sat) Blink (or be late) and
excellent, and there’s a top list of vintage you’ll miss this tiny traditional gem. Cosy
wines. The long menu features dishes unu- and simply decorated, it comes highly rec-
sual for Portugal, such as lamb in mint sauce ommended for its seafood grills and shell-
and spaghetti bolognese. Limited availability fish dishes.
after 11pm.
196
Cervejaria Dois Irmãos TAPAS €€ Stevie Ray’s Blues Jazz Bar BAR
(% 282 181 100; Travessa do Mar 2; mains €6.60- (www.stevie-rays.com; Rua da Senhora da Graça 9;
18; h 11am-midnight; W ) Locals and passing h Tue-Sat 9pm-6am; W ) This intimate two-
tourists alike head to this relaxing and styl- level candlelit joint is the best live-music
ish place housed in a quaint old building on bar in town, attracting a smart-casual old-
Praça do Infante. The sublime selection of er crowd. At weekends it has live blues, jazz
petiscos (tapas) includes everything from and oldies. Admission is free, but a €5 mini-
pipis to pork ear. Cataplana (seafood stew) mum consumption is applied.
and good, if somewhat pricey, grilled fish are
available, too. There’s lovely outdoor seating Red Eye Bar BAR

on the pretty square. (www.redeyebarlagos.com; Rua Cándido dos Reis

63; h 8pm-2am Tue-Sun) This straight-up rock
Adega da Marina PORTUGUESE €€ ‘n’ surf bar makes a top spot to kick off the
Th e A lg a rv e LD argi noksi n g & N i g htl i fe

(% 282 764 284; Avenida dos Descobrimentos 35; night, with drink specials, a pool table and
mains €6-14, fish per kilogram €34-55; h noon- friendly staff.
2am; W ) This barn-like place is a bit like
a Portuguese grandmother: she hasn’t Garden BEER GARDEN

changed her hairstyle in a while, but she still (Rua Lançarote de Freitas 29; h 1pm-midnight;
W ) This appealingly decorated beer garden
dishes out generous portions of reliable (and
economical) grilled chicken and seafood fa- makes a great spot to lounge around on a
vourites to grateful guests (who sometimes sunny afternoon with a beer or cocktail.
queue to eat here in summer). Her accesso- Once you smell the barbecuing meat, you
ries include iron chandeliers and random might decide to stay for a meal, too. To find
farming implements. it, look for the kissing-snails mural on the
outside wall.
Atlântico PORTUGUESE €€€
(% 282 792 806; www.restauranteatlantico.com; Inside Out BAR

Estrada da Meia Praia; mains €14-29; h lunch & (www.facebook.com/insideoutFace; Rua Cândido
dinner Mon-Sat; W ) Head to Meia Praia to ex- dos Reis 19; h 8pm-4am; W ) This late open-
perience this restaurant, where the owner is er has good DJs and a lively atmosphere,
a bit of a character and the food is expertly fuelled by enormous fishbowl cocktails.
prepared. There’s a bar, a stunning terrace Duna Beach Club BAR
with beach views and a very old wine collec- (Meia Praia; h bar 9pm-2am, restaurant hours vary;
tion. The menu, with both Portuguese and W ) Chill out with the smart set at this hotel
international dishes, is extensive. An excel- bar-restaurant, open day and night. It’s lo-
lent retreat. cated bang on Meia Praia beach, with a pool
and attitude. At night it’s the bar for the
6 Drinking & Nightlife ‘resort-chic’ folk.
oBon Vivant BAR
Taberna de Lagos BAR
(www.facebook.com/bonvivant.lagos; Rua 25 de
(www.tabernalagos.pt; Rua Dr Joaquim Tello 1;
Abril 105; h 2pm-4am; W ) This long-standing
h noon-2am; W ) Boasting a stylish space and
central bar is far classier than some of the
brooding electronic music in a historic cen-
nearby options, takes some care over its
tral building, this airy and atmospheric bar
mainly R&B music and makes an effort to
and restaurant attracts a somewhat savvier
keep patrons entertained. Spread across sev-
bar-goer than the typical Lagos drinking den
eral levels with various terraces, Bon Vivant
(higher cocktail prices also keep some punt-
shakes up some great cocktails and is pretty
ers away). It has live fado (traditional song)
hot once it gets going (usually late). Look
on Monday night.
out for the bartenders’ juggling feats.
Grand Café CLUB
Linda’s Bar BAR
(Rua da Senhora da Graça; h 10pm-6am; W ) This
(www.lindabeachbar.pt; São Roque, Meia Praia;
classy place has three bars and lots of gold
h 10am-11pm Thu-Tue summer, 11am-6pm Thu-Tue
leaf, kitsch, red velvet and cherubs, over
winter; W ) A madly popular beach hang-out,
which are draped dressed-up local and for-
with fab food, good salads, cocktails and
eign hipsters. Given its central location, it’s a
tunes.
popular spot to end up.
 197
Eddie’s Bar BAR Renex also operates an express service from
(Rua 25 de Abril 99; h 2pm-4am) A good- Lagos to Lisbon (€20); tickets are available from
natured and buzzing local beer stop, this the Renex ticket office (% 282 768 932, 282
busy dark-wood bar gathers plenty of surf- 768 931; Rua das Portas de Portugal 101).
ers and backpackers, who spill out onto the Buses also go to Seville (via Huelva) in Spain
street-side tables. (€21, 5½ hours, two to three times daily Monday
to Friday, more frequently in summer).
3 Entertainment TRAIN
Centro Cultural PERFORMING ARTS Lagos is at the western end of the Algarve line,
(% 282 770 450; https://centroculturaldelagos. and has the following direct connections:
wordpress.com; Rua Lançarote de Freitas 7; Faro (€7.30, 1¾ hours, nine daily), via Albufeira
h 10am-6pm Sep-Jun, 3-11pm Jul & Aug; W ) This (€4.80, one hour).

Th e A lg a rv e LE n
is Lagos’ main venue for performances and Vila Real de Santo António (€10.40, 3¼
contemporary-art exhibitions. It’s always hours, seven daily) .
worth dropping by to see what’s on. Trains go daily to Lisbon (all requiring a change
at Tunes; €22.70, four hours, five daily).
7 Shopping
Owl Story BOOKS 88 Getting Around
(% 917 414 386; Rua Marreiros Neto 67; h 10am-

ag
5.30pm Mon-Fri, to 2pm Sat) Run by a friendly BOAT

teorsta i n me n t
English couple, Owl Story has an excellent In summer, locals run a boat (€0.50; h Apr-Oct)
supply of secondhand books in English. to and fro across the estuary to the Meia Praia
side from a landing near the Forte da Ponta da
Mercado Municipal MARKET Bandeira.
(Avenida dos Descobrimentos; h 7am-2pm Mon-
Sat) Lagos’ characterful municipal market is BUS
an intriguing place to wander and a great Local Onda bus 2 links the city centre with all
spot to stock up on fresh produce, including the surrounding beaches – the main city-centre
excellent seafood. stop is near the market on the riverfront. The
tourist office can provide information. Tickets
cost €1, a day ticket €3.50. Buses run from Mon-
88 Information day to Saturday between 7am and 8pm (7pm on
Turismo (% 282 763 031; www.visitalgarve. Saturday). A few run on Sunday.
pt; Praça Gil Eanes; h 9am-7pm Jul & Aug,
to 6pm Easter-Jun & Sep, to 5pm Oct-Easter) CAR
The very helpful staff offer excellent maps and Drivers are advised to leave their cars in one
leaflets. of the free car parks on the outskirts of Lagos
(look for the large parking signs). An alternative
88 Getting There & Away is the underground car park on Avenida dos
Descobrimentos, but this road can get congest-
BUS ed in summer. Street parking spaces close to
From the bus station (% 282 762 944; www. the centre are metered – watch out or you’ll be
eva-bus.com; Rua Vasco da Gama) buses travel wheel-clamped.
to the following: Local agencies offering competitive car- and
Albufeira €5.50, 1½ hours, six daily. scooter-rental rates include the following.
Cabo de São Vicente €4.20, one hour, one on Auto Jardim (% 282 769 486; www.auto-
weekdays only. jardim.com; Rua Victor Costa e Silva 18A)
Faro €5.90, two hours 10 minutes, six daily. Luzcar (% 282 761 016; www.luzcar.com; Largo
Lisbon €20, four hours, 10 expresses daily. das Portas de Portugal 10)
Portimão €4.30, 25 to 40 minutes, hourly. Motorent (% 282 769 716; www.motorent.pt;
Sagres €3.85, one hour, nearly hourly on Rua Victor Costa e Silva; 3-day bicycle/motor-
weekdays, nine on Saturday and Sunday. cycle/scooter hire from €21/60/60)
To get to/from Carrapateira or Monchique, TAXI
change at Aljezur (€3.85, 50 minutes, four daily)
or Portimão. Buses to Aljezur serve Odeceixe You can call for taxis (% 282 460 610) or find
(€4.35, 1½ hours). them on Rua das Portas de Portugal where
buses stop.
198

ST VINCENT
Although not much is known about the life of the Spanish-born St Vincent, his death is
so legendary that both Spain and Portugal claim him as their own. In Portugal he is con-
sidered the patron saint of wine and sea voyages.
St Vincent was a Spanish preacher who was killed by the Romans in 304. During
his torturous death (he was burnt at the stake), he is said to have maintained such
composure, praising God all the while, that he converted several of his torturers on the
spot. Following his martyrdom, his remains were gathered, at which point two differing
accounts emerge. Spain claims his final resting place is in Ávila. Portugal claims that his
remains washed up on the shores of the Algarve, near Sagres, in a boat watched over
by two protective ravens. A shrine in his honour, which Muslim chronicles refer to as
Th e A lg a rv e LGett

the Crow Church, became an object of Christian pilgrimage, though it was destroyed by
Muslim fanatics in the 12th century.
Afonso Henriques, Portugal’s first king, had the remains moved by ship to Lisbon in
1173, again accompanied by ravens. St Vincent became Lisbon’s patron saint (his re-
mains now rest in the Igreja de São Vicente de Fora, p110). A raven features in the
city’s coat of arms – some lisboêtas claim that ravens inhabited the church’s bell tower
for years afterwards.
a g o isn tgoT She

88 Getting There & Away

Lagos to Sagres Lagos’ Onda (www.aonda.pt) bus 4 runs fre-
ag

To the west of Lagos, the coastline is sharp quently from Lagos (around €2, 15 minutes) and
rr
e es

and ragged, and much less developed, though arrives by the village church on the waterfront.
& Away

the area is certainly not undiscovered. Once-

sleepy fishing villages set above long beaches Salema
have now woken up to the benefits of tourism
and, in some cases, developers have moved This charmingly small coastal resort has an
in. Out of the high season, these places re- easy-going atmosphere; it’s set on a wide bay
main bewitchingly calm. 17km west of Lagos, surrounded by devel-
opments that manage not to overwhelm it.
It’s ideal for families, and there are several
Luz small, secluded beaches within a few kilo-
Six kilometres west of Lagos, the small re- metres – Praia da Salema by the village,
sort of Luz – fronted by a sandy beach that’s Praia da Figueira to the west and Boca do
ideal for families – is packed with Brits. Rio to the east.
Most accommodation is prebooked by those
on a package deal. Luz is a convenient side 4 Sleeping
trip from Lagos. Quinta dos Carriços CAMPGROUND €
Praia da Luz is well known in the UK as (% 282 695 201; www.quintadoscarricos.com; sites
the place from where Madeleine McCann per adult/tent/car €5/5/4, studios/apt €65/90;
disappeared in May 2007. p i W ) Just 1.5km north of Salema, this
campground is in a peaceful, tree-filled set-
oPastelaria Chicca INTERNATIONAL €€
ting with abundant birdlife (no radios al-
(% 282 761 334; www.pastelariachiccaluz.com; Rua lowed!). It has studios and apartments and
da Várzea 3; mains €13-15; h 5-11pm Sun-Fri sum- a designated nudist camping area.
mer, lunch & dinner daily winter; W v ) S You
could visit Luz for no other reason than to A Maré GUESTHOUSE €€
dine here. Among the superb offerings are (% 282 695 165; www.the-mare.com; s/d incl break-
savoury bread-and-butter pudding, vegeta- fast €64/80, self-catering apt €75-90; aW ) Just
ble stacks (and other veggie options), amaz- off the main road into town, this blue-and-
ing salads, fish and meats, and top-notch white beach house has slightly dated but
desserts (don’t miss the white-chocolate- bright rooms, some with sea views, a pret-
and-raspberry tart) and cakes. All ingredi- ty garden and a handy guest kitchen. It’s a
ents are organic. Come with time to spare short stroll downhill to the beach. Two-night
and an empty stomach. minimum stay may apply in summer.
 199
Hotel Residencial Salema HOTEL €€ Sagres has milder temperatures than oth-
(% 282 695 328; www.hotelsalema.com; Rua 28 de er parts of the Algarve, with Atlantic winds
Janeiro; s/d €85/90; h Apr-Oct; p a W ) Fifty keeping the summers cool.
metres from the beach, the Salema offers
bright rooms with terraces (most with sea History
views) in a modern whitewashed building. Sagres is where dashing Prince Henry the
Guests praise the egg-rich breakfasts and Navigator built a new, fortified town and a
families the quick access to the sand. semi-monastic school of navigation that spe-
cialised in cartography, astronomy and ship
5 Eating design, steering Portugal towards the Age of
For a place of its size, Salema boasts several Discoveries.
excellent eateries. At least, that’s according to history and

Th e A lg a rv e S
myth. Henry was, among other things, gov-
Água na Boca SEAFOOD €€
ernor of the Algarve and he had a residence
(% 282 695 651; Rua dos Pescadores 82; mains
in its primary port town, Lagos, from where
€14-18; h 5.30-11pm Mon-Sat; W ) This is a top-
most expeditions set sail. He certainly did
notch choice in Salema, with glass sea-view put together a kind of nautical think tank,
frontage, cellar dining room and a good though how much thinking went on out
range of daily seafood specials. You’ll find it at Sagres is uncertain. He definitely had a

E at
uphill to the east of the central car park.

a girnes
house somewhere near Sagres, where he
Restaurante O Lourenço SEAFOOD €€ died in November 1460.

g
(% 282 698 622; Rua 28 de Janeiro; mains €9-16; In May 1587 the English privateer Sir
h lunch & dinner Mon-Sat) Just west of the cen- Francis Drake, in the course of attacking
tral car park, this compact and unpreten- supply lines to the Spanish Armada, cap-
tious place is recommended for its fish (the tured and wrecked the fortifications around
owner happens to be a keen fisherman). The Sagres. The Ponta de Sagres was reforti-
day’s catch will be brought out on a plank fied following the earthquake of 1755, after
for you to select from. which there was little of verifiable antiquity
left standing.
88 Getting There & Away
At least six buses daily connect Lagos and Sale-
1 Sights
ma (€2.65, 30 minutes). Many more stop at the Fortaleza de Sagres FORT
crossroads, from where it’s a 3km walk along (% 282 620 140; adult/child €3/1.50; h 9.30am-
the main road – these services are marked on 6.30pm Apr, 9am-8pm May, Jun & Sep, 9am-8.30pm
timetables as Salema(x). Jul & Aug, 9am-5pm Oct-Mar) Blank, hulk-
ing and forbidding, Sagres’ fortress offers
breathtaking views over the sheer cliffs, and
Sagres all along the coast to Cabo de São Vicente.
POP 1900 According to legend, this is where Prince
Overlooking some of the Algarve’s most dra- Henry the Navigator established his naviga-
matic scenery, the small, elongated village of tion school and primed the early Portuguese
Sagres has an end-of-the-world feel with its explorers. It’s quite a large site, so allow at
sea-carved cliffs and empty, wind-whipped least an hour to see everything.
fortress high above the frothing ocean. De- Inside the gate is a huge, curious stone
spite its connection to Portugal’s nautical pattern that measures 43m in diameter.
past, there isn’t much of historical interest Named the rosa dos ventos (literally, a
in town. Its appeal lies mainly in its sense of pictorial representation of a compass), this
isolation, plus access to some fine beaches. strange configuration is believed to be a
The village has a laid-back vibe and simple, mariner’s compass or a sundial of sorts. Ex-
cheery cafes and bars, and it’s become par- cavated in 1921, the paving may date from
ticularly popular in recent years with a surf- Prince Henry’s time but is more likely to be
ing crowd. Outside town, the cliffs of Cabo from the 16th century.
de São Vicente make for an enchanting visit. The precinct’s oldest buildings include
One kilometre east of the square, past a cistern tower to the east, a house, and
holiday villas and restaurants, is the port, the small, whitewashed, 16th-century Ig-
still a centre for boat building and lobster reja de Nossa Senhora da Graça, a sim-
fishing, and the marina. ple barrel-vaulted structure with a gilded
200
17th-century altarpiece. Take a closer look at Martinhal to the east; Praia do Tonel on
the tiled altar panels, which feature elephants the other side of the Ponta de Sagres, and
and antelopes. good for surfing; and the isolated Praia de
Many of the gaps you will see between Beliche, on the way to Cabo de São Vicente.
buildings are the result of a 1960s spring Surfing is possible at all beaches except
clean of 17th- and 18th-century ruins that Praia do Martinhal and nearby Praia da Ba-
was organised to make way for a reconstruc- leeira. Several places offer surfing and body-
tion (later aborted) that was to coincide with boarding lessons.
the 500th anniversary of Henry’s death.
It’s a great walk around the perimeter of 2 Activities
the promontory, information boards shedding
light on the rich flora and fauna of the area. Boating & Diving
Don’t miss the limestone crevices descending oMar Ilimitado
Th e A lg a rv e S

BOATING
to the sea, or the labyrinth art installation by (% 916 832 625; www.marilimitado.com; Porto da
Portugal’s famous sculpture-architect Pancho Baleeira) S Mar Ilimitado, a team of marine
Guedes. Near the southern end of the prom- biologists, offers a variety of highly recom-
ontory is a lighthouse. Death-defying anglers mended, ecologically sound boat trips, from
balance on the cliffs below the walls, hoping dolphin spotting (€35, 1½ hours) and sea-
to land bream or sea bass. bird watching (€45, 2½ hours) to excursions
Aact

At the time of research a huge, new and up to Cabo de São Vicente (€25, one hour).
g irves

incongruously 21st-century visitors centre

Cape Cruiser BOATING
i t i es

was being bolted together opposite the en-

trance. This will contain a gift shop, an exhi- (% 919 751 175; www.capecruiser.org; Porto da Ba-
bition centre and a cafe. leeira) Offers a range of boat trips, including
dolphin watching (€35, 1½ hours), seabird
Cabo de São Vicente LANDMARK watching (€45, 2½ hours), trips to Cabo São
Five kilometres from Sagres, Europe’s south- Vicente (€25, one hour) and various fishing
westernmost point is a barren headland, excursions.
the last piece of home that Portuguese sail-
ors once saw as they launched into the un- DiversCape DIVING

known. It’s a spectacular spot: at sunset you (% 965 559 073; www.diverscape.com; Porto da
can almost hear the hissing as the sun hits Baleeira) The PADI-certified DiversCape or-
the sea. A red lighthouse houses the small ganises snorkelling expeditions (€25, two
but excellent Museu dos Faróis (adult/child hours), plus dives of between 12m and 30m
€1.50/1; h 10am-6pm Tue-Sun Apr-Sep, to 5pm around shipwrecks. A dive and equipment
Oct-Mar), showcasing Sagres’ role in Portu- costs €50/240/380 for one/six/10 dives,
gal’s maritime history. while the four-day PADI open-water course
The cape – a revered place even in the is €395. Beginners’ courses (from €80) are
time of the Phoenicians and known to available and there are even sessions for
the Romans as Promontorium Sacrum children aged over eight (€60).
– takes its present name from a Spanish Surfing
priest martyred by the Romans. The old Sagres Natura SURFING
fortifications, trashed by Sir Francis Drake (% 282 624 072; www.sagresnatura.com; Rua São
in 1587, were later pulverised by the 1755 Vicente) This recommended surf school also
earthquake. rents out bodyboards (€15 per day), surf-
A kilometre before reaching the light- boards (€20) and wetsuits (€10). It has bikes
house, you’ll pass Fortaleza do Beliche, for hire (€10) and the same company also
built in 1632 on the site of an older fortress. runs a surf-equipment shop and hostel.
The interior, once a hotel, is off-limits, but
you can descend a pretty pathway down to Free Ride Sagres Surfcamp SURFING
near the water. The sheltering walls here (% 916 089 005, 965 780 252; www.frsurf.com;
make for a more appealing picnic spot than Hotel Memmo Baleeira, Sítio da Baleeira; 1-/3-/5-
the wind-whipped cape. day lessons €60/165/250) One of several surf
schools in the area, this set-up offers lessons,
r Beaches packages and hire, as well as free transport
There are four good beaches a short drive from Sagres and Lagos to wherever the
or long walk from Sagres: Praia da Ma- surf’s good that day.
reta, just below the town; lovely Praia do
 201

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i t i es
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Ponta de
Sagres

A B C D

Sagres
æ Sights 11 Casa do Cabo de Santa Maria ............... C1
1 Fortaleza de Sagres................................ A3 12 Mareta View Boutique B&B ...................B2
2 Igreja de Nossa Senhora da 13 Pousada do Infante.................................C2
Graça ..................................................... A3
3 Lighthouse............................................... A4 ú Eating
4 Rosa dos Ventos ..................................... A3 14 A Casínha.................................................. B1
15 A Grelha .................................................... C1
Ø Activities, Courses & Tours 16 Mum's ....................................................... B1
5 Cape Cruiser.............................................D1 17 Vila Velha.................................................. C1
6 DiversCape ...............................................D1
7 Free Ride Sagres Surfcamp ...................C1 û Drinking & Nightlife
8 Mar Ilimitado ............................................D1 18 Dromedário .............................................. B1
9 Sagres Natura ......................................... B2 Pau de Pita ......................................(see 18)
19 Warung ..................................................... B1
ÿ Sleeping
10 Casa Azul ..................................................C1

Walking guided walks in the Sagres area, explaining

oWalkin’Sagres WALKING the history and other details of the sur-
(% 925 545 515; www.walkinsagres.com) S Mul- rounds. The walks head through pine forests
tilingual Ana Carla offers recommended to the cape’s cliffs, and vary from shorter
202
7.7km options (€25, three hours) to a longer mercado municipal provides great supplies
15km walk (€40, 4½ hours). There’s also a for long beach days.
weekend walk for parents with young chil- There are cafes on Praça de República
dren (€15, children free). and restaurants along the way to Cabo de
São Vicente. Elsewhere, there are several in-
4 Sleeping viting restaurants on the sands of Praia do
Orbitur Sagres CAMPGROUND € Martinhal.
(% 282 624 371; www.orbitur.pt; Cerra das Moitas;
Mum’s INTERNATIONAL €€
sites per adult/tent/car 6.50/6.90/6.10; p W )
(% 968 210 411; www.mums-sagres.com; Rua
Situated some 2.5km from town, off the Comandante Matoso; mains €10-18; h 7pm-2am
road to Cabo de São Vicente, this is a shady, Wed-Mon; W v ) S This warm and cosy, ec-
well-maintained campground with lots of lectically decorated and friendly place on
Th e A lg a rv e S leep

trees. You can hire bikes here. the main drag is a popular choice for dinner
Casa Azul B&B €€ and drinks. The food – mostly vegetarian
(% 282 624 856; www.casaazulsagres.com; Rua with some seafood – is delicious and whole-
Dom Sebastião; d €70-140, apt €95-120; a i W ) some. It has a good wine list and staff mem-
As blue as its name suggests, Casa Azul is bers are happy to recommend matches. It
a popular surfer crash pad, with bright and stays open for drinks after the kitchen closes
breezy rooms decked out with splashes of at midnight. No cards.
a g r es

bold colour. The apartments are big enough A Grelha PORTUGUESE €€

for families and come with kitchenettes and
ing

(Rua Comandante Matoso; mains €8-13; h noon-

barbecue decks. 3pm & 7-10pm Mon-Sat) The nylon tablecloths,
Mareta View Boutique B&B BOUTIQUE HOTEL €€ concrete floor and generally rough interior
(% 282 620 000; www.maretaview.com; Beco D aren’t that alluring, but the food, mainly
Henrique; s/d from €88.50/112.50; aiW ) The grilled chicken and local fish, is tasty, honest-
Mareta View brings sleek – and classy – atti- ly prepared and filling – and fairly cheap. It’s
tude to Sagres. White- and aquamarine-hued popular with cash-strapped locals, always a
decor gives it a futuristic feel (the funky good sign in these parts.
mood lighting in the rooms rivals the Cabo A Casínha PORTUGUESE €€
de São Vicente lighthouse beacon). It offers (% 917 768 917; www.facebook.com/acasinha.res-
wonderful sea views, excellent breakfasts taurantesagres; Rua São Vicente; mains €13-19;
and a convenient location on the old plaza. h 12.30-3pm & 7-10.30pm Tue-Sat, closed Jan &
Casa do Cabo de Santa Maria GUESTHOUSE €€ Feb) This cosy terracotta-and-white spot –
(% 282 624 722; www.casadocabodesantama- built on the site of the owner’s grandpar-
ria.com; Rua Patrão António Faustino; not incl ents’ house – serves up some fabulous
breakfast d €60-80, apt €80-120; p W ) These Portuguese cuisine, including stand-out
immaculately kept, welcoming rooms and barbecued fish, a good variety of catapla-
apartments might not have sweeping views, nas (seafood stews) for two (€34) and arroz
but they are colourfully furnished and are de polvo (octopus rice). High quality, with a
cleaned daily. They’re excellent value. pleasant atmosphere.

Pousada do Infante HOTEL €€€ oA Eira do Mel PORTUGUESE €€€

(% 282 620 240; www.pousadas.pt; Rua Patrão (% 282 639 016; Estrada do Castelejo, Vila do
António Faustino; r from €150; p a i W s ) Bispo; mains €16-22; h noon-2.30pm & 7.30-
Possibly the most pleasant place to stay in 10pm Tue-Sat) It’s worth driving 10km north
Sagres, this modern pousada (upmarket of Sagres to Vila do Bispo to enjoy José
inn) boasts large rooms in a great setting Pinheiro’s creations at this much-lauded
near the clifftop. Count on bright interiors slow-food restaurant. The meat leans to-
with splashes of fruity colour, public areas wards the Algarvian; the seafood has a
with an air of colonial grandeur and picture- more contemporary touch. Think rabbit
perfect views from the terraces. in red-wine sauce (€16), octopus cata-
plana (seafood stew) with sweet potatoes
5 Eating (€35 for two people), curried Atlantic wild
Many places close or operate shorter hours shrimps (€22) and javali (wild boar; €17).
during low season (November to April). The Mouth-watering.
 203
Vila Velha INTERNATIONAL €€€ At night, it mixes decent drinks and is as
(% 282 624 788; www.vilavelha-sagres.com; Rua lively as any of the other bars, with a good
Patrão António Faustino; mains €13-30; h 6.30pm- post-surfing vibe.
midnight Tue-Sun; v ) In a stylish old house
with a lovely mature garden in front, the Dromedário BAR

upmarket, Dutch-owned Vila Velha offers (% 282 624 219; Rua Comandante Matoso;
consistently good seafood mains (go for the h 10am-late; W ) Sagres’ original cafe-bar,
catch of the day), plus meat dishes such as Dromedário is still going strong (it’s been
rabbit and pork in mango sauce. It’s more here for well over 30 years). There’s good
internationally flavoured than all of Sagres’ food (try the burgers), karaoke and ‘mixol-
other restaurants. ogy’, aka creative cocktails. The spacious,
mildly Moorish-themed interior is a cool
6 Drinking & Nightlife spot to hang out after a day on the waves.

Th e A lg a rv e S
It’s Groundhog Day (albeit a pleasant one)
along Rua Comandante Matoso, with sev- 88 Information
eral atmospheric, good-value cafe-bars lo- Bank & ATM (Rua Comandante Matoso)
cated cheek-to-cheek, the centre of Sagres’ Turismo (% 282 624 873; www.cm-viladobispo.
post-surfing nightlife scene. pt; Rua Comandante Matoso; h 9am-1pm
& 2-6pm Tue-Sat, extended hours summer)

Da
Warung Situated on a patch of green lawn, 100m east of

rg
BAR

i nrkes
(% 282 624 432; www.warung.eu; Rua do Mercado; Praça da República. Buses stop nearby.
h 6pm-2am; W ) This popular post-surf spot

i n g & N i g htl i fe
plays a good variety of music, does decent 88 Getting There & Around
food, offers a range of drinks and has a re- The bus stop (Rua Comandante Matoso) is by
laxed but upbeat atmosphere. Worth seek- the turismo. You can buy tickets on the bus.
ing out. Buses come from Lagos via Salema (€3.85,
one hour, six daily). On weekends there are fewer
Pau de Pita CAFE
services. It’s only 10 minutes to Cabo de São
(Rua Comandante Matoso; h 10am-2am; W ) The
Vicente (twice daily on weekdays only; €2).
funkiest of its neighbours in the bar strip (at
Handy bike rental is available at Sagres Natura
least in terms of its design), this place has (p200) and also at Maretta Shop (% 282 624
great salads, crêpes and juices (snacks €4 to 535; www.marettashop.com; Rua Comandante
€10), all enjoyed to a chilled-out soundtrack. Matoso; h 9.30am-10.30pm).

WILDLIFE OF THE ALGARVE

With five special protection areas (a birding initiative), eight special areas of conserva-
tion, two natural parks and one natural reserve – not to forget its sea life – the Algarve
is one of the most flora- and fauna-rich regions of the country. The purple gallinule
(aka the purple swamp-hen or sultan chicken) is one of Europe’s rarest and most nattily
turned-out birds – a large violet-blue water creature with red bill and legs. In Portugal it
only nests in a patch of wetland spilling into the exclusive Quinta do Lago estate, at the
western end of the Parque Natural da Ria Formosa (p165), 12km west of Faro. Look for it
near the lake at the estate’s São Lourenço Nature Trail.
Another eye-catching Algarve resident is the Mediterranean chameleon, a 25cm-
long reptile with independently moving eyes, a tongue longer than its body and skin that
mimics its environment. It’s the only chameleon found in Europe, its habitat limited to
Crete and the Iberian Peninsula. Your best chance of seeing this shy creature is on spring
mornings in the Quinta Marim area of the Parque Natural da Ria Formosa or in Monte
Gordo’s conifer woods, now a protected habitat for the species.
Bird-lovers should consider a trip to the Serra do Caldeirão foothills. The dramatic
Rocha da Pena, a 479m-high limestone outcrop, is a classified site because of its rich
flora and fauna. Orchids, narcissi and native cistus cover the slopes, where red foxes
and Egyptian mongooses are common. Among many bird species seen here are the
huge eagle owl, the Bonelli’s eagle and the buzzard.
There’s a centro ambiental (environmental centre) in Pena village, and you can walk
up to the top of Rocha itself.
204
do Amado; day lesson €50) or Amado Surf-
North of Sagres camp (% 927 831 568; www.amadosurfcamp.com;
Heading north along the Algarve’s western 1-week package incl accommodation, breakfast,
coast, you’ll find some amazing beaches, equipment hire & lessons €425-525, camping €325).
backed by beautiful wild vegetation. Thanks oBeach Hike WALKING
to building restrictions imposed to protect The 9km circuit of Carrapateira’s two fab-
the Parque Natural do Sudoeste Alente- ulous beaches, Praia da Bordeira and Praia
jano e Costa Vicentina, it’s relatively well do Amado, from the town is a visually stun-
preserved. This protected area is rarely more ning hike (or drive), with lookouts over the
than 6km wide, and runs for about 120km beaches and the rocky coves and cliffs be-
from Burgau to Cabo de São Vicente and up tween them.
nearly the entire western Algarve and Alente-
Th e A lg a rv e N

jo shore. Here there are at least 48 plant Praia da Bordeira BEACH

species found only in Portugal, and around a (Praia Carrapateira) Beautiful Praia da Bordei-
dozen or so found only within the park. ra is a mammoth swathe of sand merging
The region is home to otters, foxes and into dunes 2km from the north side of town.
wildcats, and some 200 species of bird enjoy
the coastal wetlands, salt marshes and cliffs, Praia do Amado BEACH
Known for its surf, stunning Praia do Ama-
S iogrhts

including Portugal’s last remaining ospreys.

Although the seas can be dangerous, the do is at the southern end of the village.
th o f S a g r es

area has a growing reputation for some of Praia de Vale Figueira BEACH
Europe’s finest surf and attracts people from One of the more remote west-coast beach-
all over the world. es, this wide, magnificent stretch of whit-
ish sand has an ethereal beauty, backed by
Carrapateira stratified cliffs hazy in the ocean spray. It’s
reached by a rough, partly paved road that
Surf-central Carrapateira is a tranquil, pret-
runs some 5km from the main road at a
ty, spread-out village, with two exhilarating
point 10km north of Carrapateira (take the
nearby beaches whose lack of development,
northern of the two turn-offs). There are no
fizzing surf and strong swells attract both a
facilities.
hippy, surf-dude crowd and, more recently,
Lisboetas. The coast along here is wild, with
copper-coloured and ash-grey cliffs covered
4 Sleeping
in speckled yellow and green scrub, backing Despite the number of campervans you see
creamy, wide sands. around the place, camping here is definitely
illegal – please think twice before joining the
1 Sights camping fray; the dune system is particular-
ly fragile.
Museu do Mar e da Terra da
Monte do Sapeiro B&B €€
Carrapateira MUSEUM
(% 282 973 108; www.montedosapeiro.pt; Vilarinha;
(% 282 970 000; Rua de Pescador; adult/child
r €100; paW ) You’ll settle in here like a
€2.50/1; h 10am-1pm & 1.30-4.30pm Tue-Sat) The
pig in a sty…which is exactly what these two
Carrapateira Land & Sea Museum is a must
rooms formerly were. Now they’re contempo-
for visitors – surfers or otherwise. Up a steep
rary and very sleek accommodation, set on a
hill near the top of town, its contemporary
lawn with lounging areas and views of fields
design space has small exhibits covering
beyond. The stunning kitchen is for com-
everything from the fishing industry to the
munal use (and breakfasts with homemade
daily life of locals, and intriguing photo-
goodies). It’s located in Vilarinha, a small in-
graphic collages depict the Carrapateira of
land village just south of Carrapateira.
yesteryear (there’s minimal English label-
There’s a minimum stay of a week in July
ling). The vista from the museum’s ingenious
and August, and two nights at other times.
viewing window over the dunes is sublime.
Bamboo GUESTHOUSE €€
2 Activities (% 969 009 988, 282 973 323; Sítio do Rio; d/tr
For surfing courses (packaged with accom- €60/85, 2-person apt €90; W ) S About 800m
modation) contact Algarve Surf School from Praia da Bordeira, on the main road,
(% 962 846 771; www.algarvesurfschool.com; Praia this friendly, ecologically-minded guest
 205
house has four decent, colourful rooms and 1 Sights & Activities
friendly owners. It also has a great open- Hidden in the narrow backstreets of Aljezur
plan apartment. is a string of quaint museums (one admis-
Casa Fajara BOUTIQUE HOTEL €€€ sion price of €2 permits you to visit all four
(% 282 973 134; www.casafajara.com; Bordeira; r museums!). All are well worth a visit.
€105-172; paWs ) Looking like a Greek
Museu Municipal MUSEUM
villa, this secluded boutique hideaway offers (www.cm-aljezur.pt; Largo 5 de Outubro; €2;
real relaxation. The rooms vary in size and h 9am-1pm & 2-6pm Tue-Sat) This small but
outlook – some have balconies – but all are likeable museum has three rooms. Down-
extremely well kept, with excellent facili- stairs is an archaeological collection dis-
ties. It’s 500m down the road opposite the playing everything from Stone Age axes to
turnoff to Praia da Bordeira. a 16th-century whipping post, while across

Th e A lg a rv e N
5 Eating the hall the Islamic section has a good selec-
tion of locally produced ceramics. Upstairs
Cafes and snack bars line the town’s tiny pla- is an ethnographic display with everything
za and keep long hours. from clocks to carts. Information is in Portu-
Microbar Carrapateira CAFE €
guese. An English video explains the area’s
attractions, which include three nearby mu-

E at
(Largo do Comercio; meals €5-11; h 10am-10pm)

o ri th
seums that you can enter on the same ticket.
S The name certainly conceals just how

n g o f S a g r es
much this excellent place on the square has Museu de Arte Sacra MUSEUM
to offer. Whatever you feel like, it’s got it. (Rua do Castelo; €2; h 9am-1pm & 2-6pm Tue-
That includes surfer comfort food, including Sat) Built in the 16th century and damaged
tasty bruschetta, generous hamburgers and in the 1755 earthquake, the modest Igreja
vegetarian options; an ice-cold imperial da Misericórdia church was reconstructed
(small draught beer); moist cakes; soy cof- in the 18th century. Its small religious-art
fee; and a cocktail in the sun. museum houses items donated by a locally
Sítio do Forno SEAFOOD €€
born Monsignor. The highlights are the old
(% 282 973 914; Praia do Amado; mains €8-17;
church bell and a 14th-century crown. Vis-
h noon-10pm; W ) On the cliff overlooking
it the museum first, and the guardian will
Praia do Amado, this large eatery evolved open the church for you. Admission includes
from a tiny fisher’s cabana. The value is entry to three other Aljezur museums.
in the setting (with its magnificent ocean Castelo CASTLE
views), not so much in the cuisine (though (h 24hr) F The polygonal castle, on the
some fish dishes are delicious, depending on site of an Iron Age fort, was built by the
what’s available). Moors in the 10th century, conquered by
the Christians in 1249, then abandoned in
88 Getting There & Away the late 15th century. The walls and a couple
One bus a day on weekdays links Carrapateira of towers survive, as well as a cistern. Great
with Aljezur (€3.25, 25 minutes), where you can views of the surrounding area can be had
change for Lagos. from the rock in the middle of the fortress.
Museu Antoniano MUSEUM
Aljezur (www.cm-aljezur.pt; Rua de Santo António; €2;
Some 20km north of Carrapateira, Alje- h 9am-1pm & 2-5pm Tue-Sat Oct-May, to 6pm Jun-
zur is an attractive village that straddles a Sep) Housed in a former chapel built in the
river. The western part is Moorish, with a 17th century (which was destroyed in the
collection of cottages below a ruined 10th- 1755 earthquake), this is now a museum de-
century hilltop castle; the eastern side, called voted to St Anthony, with paintings, books,
Igreja Nova (New Church), is 600m up a coins and icons all relating to the saint. Ad-
steep hill. Aljezur is close to some fantastic mission includes entry to three other Aljezur
beaches, edged by black rocks that reach into museums. Ask at the Museu Municipal for
the white-tipped, bracing sea – surfing hot entry.
spots. The surrounding countryside, which is
Casa Museu Pintor José Cercas MUSEUM
part of the natural park, is a tangle of yellow,
(www.cm-aljezur.pt; Rua do Castelo; €2; h 9am-
mauve and green wiry gorse and heather.
1pm & 2-5pm Tue-Sat Oct-May, to 6pm Jun-Sep)
206
This quaint house belonged to Portuguese light and airy rooms, great communal areas
painter José Cercas (1914–92) who left his including a sunny terrace, a storeroom for
home and belongings – a collection of furni- surf gear, and a washing and drying room.
ture, artworks and personal objects – to the The location is superb, a few minutes’ walk
town. Ask at the Museu Municipal (p205) for from Praia da Arrifana.
entry. Admission includes entry to three oth-
er Aljezur museums. Parque de Campismo Serrão CAMPGROUND €
(% 282 990 220; www.campingserrao.com; per
Burros e Artes TOUR adult/tent/car €5.50/5/4; pi W s ) This tran-
(% 967 145 306, 282 995 068; www.burros-artes. quil, shaded site is 4km north of Aljezur,
blogspot.com; Vale das Amoreiras) For those who then 1km off the main road. It has wheel-
believe ‘slow is beautiful’, this might be your chair access, tennis courts, a playground and
kind of travel – covering 10km to 15km per apartments, plus bike rental. There are also
Th e A lg a rv e N

day on foot with nothing but you, stunning house apartments for rent.
nature and your burro (donkey), which car-
ries your luggage. This company coordinates Restaurante-Bar A Lareira GUESTHOUSE €€

trips – generally from two days to two weeks – (% 282 998 440; Rua 3 de Janeiro; d/tr €70/85;
W ) Located in Igreja Nova, this guest house
including accommodation, food and option-
al multilingual guides. boasts 12 clean and tidy rooms with wood
details, and each opens onto a shared ter-
S leep
o r thi nogf S a g r es

r Beaches race with lovely views. There’s a good restau-

rant below.
Wonderful, unspoilt beaches near Aljezur
include Praia da Arrifana (10km southwest,
near a tourist development called Vale da
5 Eating
Telha), a dramatic, curved black-cliff-backed Cafe-bars overlook the main square around
bay with one restaurant, balmy pale sands Igreja Nova. In Praia da Arrifana there’s a
and some big northwest swells (a surfer’s de- string of seafood restaurants (packed with
light); and Praia de Monte Clérigo, about Portuguese at weekends) on the road above
8km northwest. Praia de Amoreira, 6km the beach, where you can expect to pay
away, is a wonderful beach where the river around €10 for grilled fish.
meets the sea. More difficult to reach but O Paulo SEAFOOD €€
worth the effort is the more remote Praia (% 282 995 184; www.restauranteopaulo.com;
de Vale Figueira, about 15km southwest of Arrifana; mains €12-20; h 9.30am-10pm; W )
Aljezur via rugged dirt roads. Spectacularly set by the ruined fortress of
Surfing lessons are available through Ar- Arrifana, with majestic clifftop views as far
rifana Surf School (% 917 862 138; www.arrifa as Cabo de São Vicente, O Paulo has a cov-
nasurfschool.com; Praia da Arrifana; 1-/3-/4-/5-day ered terrace that makes a romantic spot for
course €55/150/200/225; h Mar-Oct). a meal. The vistas are hard to live up to, but
it does a pretty good job here, with plates –
4 Sleeping just about all seafood – packed with Algarve
Amazigh Hostel HOSTEL € flavour and colour.
(% 282 997 502; www.amazighostel.com; Rua da
Ladeira 5; dm/d €15/59; i W ) This hip and Bistrot Gulli ITALIAN €€

happening hostel is clean and intelligent- (% 282 994 344; Sítio de Santa Susana, N120;
ly designed, with inbuilt lockers under the mains €11-18; h 12.30pm-midnight Tue-Sun) On
bunks, steel staircases, surfboard and gear the main road 4km south of Aljezur, this
storage, a cool living area (including a sun looks like a standard driver’s lunch stop un-
terrace with lovely views), plus a commu- til you enter and discover a handsome mod-
nal kitchen. It’s all about the waves here: ern interior and a menu of not just pizzas
it’s a great place for tips on local condi- but rather innovative, quality Mediterrane-
tions, and there’s summer transport to an staples using excellent ingredients. There
nearby beaches. are various degustation options, so kick
back, order some wine, designate a driver
Pousada da Juventude HOSTEL € and enjoy.
(% 282 997 455; www.pousadasjuventude.pt; Praia
da Arrifana; dm/d €17/64; p ) This grey-and- Restaurante-Bar A Lareira PORTUGUESE €€

yellow hostel is decked out in plastic furni- (Rua 3 de Janeiro; mains €9-15; h 9am-11pm)
ture of cutting-edge design. The hostel offers Warning: walk past here with a rumbling
 207
tummy and you’ll be in like a shot, lured by can paddle on the peaceful river side of the
the wonderful aromas emanating through strand. It’s 3.5km from the endearing white-
the doors. It’s unpretentious and family run, washed village of Odeceixe, a hub of budget
and (you guessed it) it serves up authentic accommodation. The beach itself has eating,
Portuguese meat and fish dishes. sleeping and surfing options.

7 Shopping Odeceixe Surf School SURFING

(% 963 170 493; www.odeceixesurfschool.com;
Mercado Municipal MARKET
Praia de Odeceixe; 1-/3-/5-day courses €55/
(h 8am-2pm Mon-Sat) Located near the 150/225; h 10.30am-7pm) This friendly set-
bridge, the municipal market is a good place up offers surfing classes (and board and
to buy fresh fruit and veggies, and it has a wetsuit rental), with sites both on and just
very appealing fish counter. above the beach; look for the octopus sign.

Th e A lg a rv e N
It’ll transport you to whatever local beach
88 Information has the best waves that day and can ar-
Turismo (% 282 998 229; Rua 25 de Abril 62; range packages with accommodation.
h 9am-6pm Tue-Thu, 9am-1pm & 2-6pm Fri-
Mon) On the main road through town; helpful. 4 Sleeping
Pensão Luar GUESTHOUSE €
88 Getting There & Away

Sh
(% 282 947 194; www.pensaoluar.blogspot.com;

oo
r pp
If you’re driving, there’s a free car park next Rua da Várzea 28; d/tr €65/75; W ) At the west-

th i n
to the turismo. Eva buses run between Lagos ern edge of the village, this friendly place is
and Aljezur (€3.85, four on weekdays, one on

og
good value (prices are almost half outside

f S a g r es
Saturday). One bus runs on weekdays to/from high season), with modern, white spic-and-
Carrapateira (30 minutes). Rede Expressos span rooms with traditional dark-wood fur-
(www.rede-expressos.pt) buses run north to
niture and tiled floors. A basic breakfast is
Lisbon (€18, two daily) and south to Lagos (€8,
two daily) and Portimão (€9, one daily). No bus- included.
es run to/from Praia da Arrifana. Parque de Campismo
São Miguel CAMPGROUND €
Odeceixe (% 282 947 145; www.campingsaomiguel.com;
sites per adult/tent/car €6.75/6.20/5.70, bun-
Around here the countryside rucks up into
galows from €85; p i W s ) Not technical-
rolling, large hills. As the Algarve turns into
the Alentejo, the last coastal settlement is ly in the Algarve, but close enough to be
Odeceixe, an endearing small town cling- very handy, this campground-miniresort is
ing to the southern side of the Ribeira de 1.5km north of Odeceixe. Shaded by pines,
Seixe valley, and so snoozy it’s in danger of it has bags of facilities, including a proper
falling off, except during high season, when restaurant and a large pool area. Wooden
Portuguese and European visitors pack the bungalows are also available. Very quiet in
place out. low season.
Casa Hospedes Celeste GUESTHOUSE €
2 Activities (% 282 947 150; www.casahospedesceleste.com;
Rota Vicentina HIKING Rua Nova 9; d €50-60; W ) Run by delightful
(www.rotavicentina.com) This long-distance owners, this renovated, clean and bright
walking route enters the Algarve at Ode- spot is excellent value and located in a great
ceixe and continues right down the west central location. Rooms are smallish but
coast to Cabo de São Vicente. The day walk have colourful bedspreads and TV. Hikers
from Odeceixe to Aljezur (18km) is an easy and surfers are welcome. Considerably low-
introduction to the trail, heading through er rates outside July and August.
mostly flat local farmland. It’s a picturesque
glimpse of Portuguese rural life. Option- Casa Vicentina INN €€€

al detours take you right to the coast for (% 282 947 447; www.casavicentina.pt; Monte
clifftop stretches. Novo; d/ste €125/165; paW s ) S For a
touch of indulgence head to this stylish com-
Praia de Odeceixe BEACH plex set in tranquil, rural surrounds. The
This tongue of sand is winningly set at a interior-decorator owner has gone to town
river mouth and flanked by imposing cliffs. in the rooms and suites; these are arranged
It’s a good family option, as smaller kids around a lush green lawn with pool and lily
208
ponds. Some rooms have kitchenettes. It’s Nossa Senhora do Desterro CHAPEL
2km from Odeceixe, near Maria Vinagre, Overlooking the town from a wooded hilltop
and is well signposted. are the ruins of a 17th-century Franciscan
monastery. It is on the path of the Via Algar-
5 Eating viana and you can climb up here.
Chaparro PORTUGUESE €€
Igreja Matriz CHURCH
(Rua da Estrada Nacional; mains €7.50-12.50; (Rua da Igreja; h 9am-6pm) The local church
h noon-midnight) A great choice for tasty no-
has an extraordinary, star-shaped Manue-
nonsense Portuguese grilled meat and sea- line porch decorated with twisted columns
food, which can be enjoyed in the smoky that look like lengths of knotted rope. The
dining room or outside when the mercury is side door is also impressive. Inside you’ll
high. Watch your food cook before your very find a simple interior, with columns topped
Th e A lg a rv e M

eyes on the huge grill inside or chill with a with ropey capitals, and a side chapel that
drink until the waiter bangs it down. contains beautiful 17th-century glazed tiles
Taberna do Gabão PORTUGUESE €€ showing St Francis, sinners in hell, and St
(% 282 947 549; Rua do Gabão 9; mains €7-13; Michael roughing up the devil. Behind the
h 10am-midnight) Odeceixe’s best dining op- church is a small museum of sacred art
tion, this welcoming restaurant features (www.cm-monchique.pt; Rua da Igreja; €1; h 10am-
E at

good-value traditional dishes served in a 1pm Mon-Fri).

o ni n

charming old-fashioned wooden dining

2 Activities
ch

room. There’s also a small patio for outdoor

gique

seating. Walks around Monchique HIKING

The Via Algarviana (p195) passes through
88 Getting There & Away Monchique between spectacular climbs to
Express buses run between Lagos and Odeceixe
the hills of Picota and Fóia, making Mon-
(€4.45, 80 minutes, four on weekdays) via chique a great base for hiking. It’s around
Aljezur (35 minutes). Buy tickets at the pape- 10.5km return to the top of Picota, and 8km
laria (newsagent; open 9am to 1pm) next to the one way to the summit of Fóia. There are
market. several other reasonably well-marked walks
in the vicinity.
From Monchique, the Trilha dos Moinhos
Monchique is a 10.3km circuit of the hills above town,
POP 2800 offering some fabulous views. From the top
High above the coast, in cool mountainous of Fóia, there are loop trails of 6.5km and
woodlands, the picturesque hamlet of Mon- 17km, while Caldas de Monchique, Picota
chique makes a lovely base for exploring and Monchique are linked by an 18km cir-
the surrounding area, with some excellent cular trail.
options for walking, biking and canoeing. Alternativtour OUTDOORS
Nearby Caldas de Monchique, a locally fa- (% 965 004 337; www.alternativtour.com; tours
mous spa town, is another alluring factor. €50-75) Alternativtour runs guided walks,
Set in the forested Serra de Monchique, mountain-biking tours, canoeing trips and
the Algarve’s mountain range, lying some combined mountain-biking and canoeing
24km north of Portimão, Monchique is also trips. Tours require a minimum of two
known for having the best brews of the fiery people; per-person prices decrease the
medronho, a locally made liqueur. larger the group gets. Bike hire costs €20
Fires regularly affect this area during per day.
summer. These cause widespread damage
and ongoing frustration at the lack of meas- Outdoor Tours OUTDOORS
ures to prevent the devastation. (% 282 969 520; www.outdoor-tours.com; Rua
Francisco Bivar 142A, Mexilhoeira Grande; tours from
€20) This Dutch-run company offers biking
1 Sights (€48), kayaking (from Lagos; €25) and walk-
A series of brown pedestrian signs starting ing trips (day walks €38) in and around the
near the bus station directs visitors up into Algarve and Serra de Monchique.
the town’s narrow old streets and major
places of interest.
 209

FÓIA
The 902m Fóia peak, 8km west of Monchique, is the Algarve’s highest. The road to the
summit climbs through eucalyptus and pine trees and opens up views over the hills. On
the way are numerous piri-piri pit stops offering spicy chicken. Telecommunication tow-
ers prickle the summit, but ignore them and look at the panoramic views. On clear days
you can see to the corners of the western Algarve – Cabo de São Vicente to the south-
west and Odeceixe to the northwest.
We know that you shouldn’t use the word ‘gorgeous’ too much. But that’s all that
comes to mind when describing O Luar da Fóia (% 282 911 149; Estrada da Fóia; mains
€7-14.50; h 10am-11pm Tue-Sun) – this ‘g’ word applies to the setting (slightly rustic), the
view (cliff-edge expansive) and the cuisine (full-on traditional Portuguese using quality

Th e A lg a rv e M
produce). Of course, chicken piri-piri is the go here, as is suckling pig, cow’s cheek in a
pot and some excellent-value wines. It’s well worth the extra grunt to get here.

4 Sleeping bit like puppies: it’s very difficult to dislike

Miradouro da Serra GUESTHOUSE €
them. And this calming spot is no excep-

S leep
(% 282 912 163; Rua dos Combatentes do Ultramar;
tion, doing light meals such as soups and

o n chi ni qgu e
s/d €36/44; pW ) Up steep Rua Engenheiro
quiches, and turning out excellent cakes
Duarte Pacheco (signposted to Portimão), and tarts in a bright, tiled-floor space.
near the turismo, this 1970s hilltop place, A Charrete PORTUGUESE €€
run with great seriousness, offers sweeping, (% 282 912 142; Rua Samora Gil 30-34; mains
breezy views and neat rooms, some with bal- €11-16; h lunch & dinner Thu-Tue) Touted as
cony. It’s popular with hikers who appreci- the area’s best eatery for its wide menu of
ate the day-launching breakfast. regional dishes, this likeably old-fashioned,
Villa Vina INN €€
though slightly pricey place offers reliably
(% 965 753 393; www.villavina.pt; Rua de Caldas
good cuisine amid country-rustic charm. A
de Monchique; r €79; pW ) Hidden up a tiny
house speciality is the cabbage with spicy
pathway (note: the only access is by steps) sausages. The unusually long list of desserts
and signed as you cross the Ribeira do Ban- includes an award-winning honey flan.
ho, around 500m after the turn-off to Caldas
de Monchique, this lovely rural villa with a 6 Drinking & Nightlife
pretty garden is perfect for those who crave Barlefante BAR
seclusion rather than village infrastructure. (Travessa das Guerreiras; h noon-2am Mon-Thu,
Reservations are required. 1pm-4am Fri & Sat, 1pm-2am Sun; W ) Mon-
chique’s coolest haunt, this fun cave-like
Vilafoîa HOTEL €€€
place has a touch of the burlesque, with
(% 282 910 110; www.vilafoia.com; Corte Perei- hot-pink walls, red-velvet alcoves, ornate
ro Apartado 241; s/d not incl breakfast €91/119; mirrors and chandeliers. The outdoor tables
paWs ) S Efficiently run and quite up to on this narrow alley are also a prime spot.
date, this rural hotel enjoys an enchanting
location in a hillside cork grove, with splen-
did views south over the Algarvian coast.
7 Shopping
Leonel Telo CERAMICS
Downstairs rooms are bright, with balco-
(Rua Engenheiro Duarte Pacheco; h 11am-5pm)
nies, while upstairs are good family suites;
Located on the main road, by the big bend in
a couple of self-catering cottages are further
the centre of town, this studio lets you watch
up the hill. It’s a good base for walkers.
potter Leonel at work and browse his bright,
To find it, head out of Monchique towards
quality ceramics.
Fóia and turn left after 1km: it’s signposted
from there.
88 Information
5 Eating Turismo (% 282 911 189; www.cm-monchique.
pt; Largo de São Sebastião; h 9.30am-1pm &
Ó Chá Lá CAFE €
2-5.30pm Mon-Fri) A useful spot for picking up
(Rua Samora Gil 12; light meals €2-6; h 9am-7pm
maps, and has some information on walks.
Mon-Fri, to 2pm Sat; W v ) Teahouses are a
210
88 Getting There & Away rounded by plants. There’s also a simple
Frota-Azul (www.frotazul-algarve.pt) buses run
restaurant. Packages including board are
to/from Portimão (€4.30, 45 minutes, five to available.
eight daily). Termas de Monchique Hotels HOTEL €€
(www.monchiquetermas.com; d €75-95; h mid-
Feb–Dec; p a W s ) There are four hotels in
Caldas de Monchique the Termas de Monchique complex. All have
Caldas de Monchique is a bit like the set of the same room rates. You can book weekend
The Truman Show. It’s a slightly sanitised, or week-long packages that include treat-
faintly fantastical hamlet with a therapeutic ments. Prices are cheaper in low season.
calm, its pastel-painted buildings nestled Situated next to the Termas de Monchique
above a delightful valley full of birdsong and spa, Hotel Termal is the oldest, biggest (and
Th e A lg a rv e de

eucalyptus, acacia and pine trees. Located least modern) of the spa’s four hotels. Next
6km south of Monchique, it’s 500m below to the spa’s main reception, Hotel Central
the main road. has 13 beautifully furnished rooms. Estal-
It has been a popular spa for over two mil- agem Dom Lourenço is the most luxurious
lennia – the Romans loved its 32°C, slight- option, but for style, Hotel Dom Carlos is
ly sulphurous waters, which are said to be the newest and most contemporary.
Gett

good for rheumatism, and respiratory and

5 Eating
M oi nngchT ihe

digestive ailments. Dom João II came here

for years in an unsuccessful attempt to cure Café Império PORTUGUESE €
his dropsy. (% 282 912 290; Largo dos Chorões; mains €6-12;
Floods in 1997 led to the closure of the spa h lunch & dinner Wed-Mon; W ) Locals adore
q uree & Away

hospital, after which it was redeveloped into this place as it reputedly serves up the best
a spa resort and its picturesque buildings re- piri-piri chicken in the region. While you
painted pale pink, green and yellow. tuck in enjoy the lovely views of the valley.
Heading north, it’s 700m on the left-hand
2 Activities side past the turn-off to Caldas – look for the
Termas de Monchique Spa SPA old tiled ‘Schweppes’ sign on the wall.
(% 282 910 910; www.monchiquetermas.com; Restaurante 1692 PORTUGUESE €€
adult/hotel guest €15/12; h mid-Feb–Dec) In the (% 282 910 910; www.monchiquetermas.com;
wooded valley below town; admission al- mains €9-18; h 12.30-3pm & 7-10pm mid-Feb–Dec;
lows access to the sauna, steam bath, gym, W ) This upmarket place has tables in the
and swimming pool with hydromassage jets. tree-shaded central square, and a classy in-
You can then indulge in special treatments, terior. Service is a bit hit-and-miss, and the
from a Cleopatra bath to a chocolate-mask setting is perhaps a little better than the de-
wrap. cent, but overpriced, food.
4 Sleeping 88 Getting There & Away
Albergaria do Lageado HOTEL €
The Monchique–Portimão bus service (run
(% 282 912 616; www.albergariadolageado.com;
by Frota Azul) goes via Caldas de Monchique
s/d €45/55; h May-Oct; Ws ) In the village, (€4.30, eight daily); the bus stop is on the road
Albergaria do Lageado is an attractive hotel above the hamlet near Restaurant Rouxinol. It’s
with a red-sloped roof and a cosy ambience. easy to miss – ask the driver to alert you.
It has spotless rooms and a small pool sur-
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