TECHNICAL BULLETIN

6399 Weston Parkway, Cary, North Carolina, 27513 • Telephone (919) 678-2220

ISP 1017

PRINTING OF PIGMENTS
AND SPECIAL EFFECTS

This report is sponsored by the Importer Support Program and

written to address the technical needs of product sourcers.

Copyright 2007, Cotton Incorporated

INTRODUCTION

Of the print systems used on cotton in the textile industry, pigment printing accounts for as much
as seventy percent of the total1. This system requires no pre or post treatment other than drying
the fabric. The color gamut is wide, and the sharpness of prints is excellent. Pigments do not
react with the cotton fiber and must be adhered to the fabric with a film forming binder, which
may detract from the hand of the fabric. However, advances in binder systems have made
positive contributions to print performance.

Special effects are used in addition to or in combination with pigments to impart a unique look to
fabrics. Some of the special effects examined in this bulletin include resist, discharge, and
burnout techniques. Alternative pigment types such as thermotropic, phototropic, puff, and
plastisol technologies will also be described.

PIGMENT PRINTING

A textile pigment print system includes the following parameters:

• Pigment: A pigment colorant is a colored organic substance that is not readily soluble in most
common solvents and imparts coloration to textile substrates only when incorporated with an
adequate binder system.

• Binder: A pigment binder is the latex polymer resin that forms a three-dimensional film on
the surface of the fiber. This film contains the dispersion of textile pigment and will act to
adhere the pigment to the surface of the substrate. The permanence of this film is dependent
on the polymer type and the application conditions. Binder chemistry, performance, and
application is covered in Technical Bulletin ISP 1008.

• Thickener: The pigment system is composed of the textile pigment dispersed in the
polymerizable resin binder, which is further mixed into a synthetic thickener system,
comprised of a long chain acrylic acid. The thickener enables the pigmented print paste to
stay in place once it is deposited onto the fabric prior to drying. This system is applied to the
textile substrate by the following means: rotary screen printing, flatbed screen printing,
engraved roller printing, coating, padding, spraying, or immersion.

PREPARATION FOR PRINTING

Many cellulosic textile substrates have been used to produce decorated and colored articles. For
minimum results, the following should be a guide.

Preparation includes the following:

• A scour, with detergent and alkali to remove oils and waxes from the fabric and make it
absorbent, is required.
• For cotton and cotton blends, an additional bleaching process may be included to further
whiten the fabric and remove motes.
________________________
1
Two-phase Printing, Fletcher Stone, 2000, Clemson University /Stork Industries Marketing Statistics – 2004

1
 • In the case of cotton woven fabric, it is advantageous, although not necessary, that the
fabric be causticized or mercerized to maximize color value and print appearance as well
as to increase fabric luster and sheen. The concentration of sodium hydroxide (NaOH)
needed to causticize cotton is 22ºBé. To produce mercerized fabric, the NaOH
concentration needs to be increased to 28-32ºBé, and the fabric held under tension during
application.
• Woven fabric should also be singed to remove surface fibers.

The dyestuff printer needs a fabric with the following properties:

• Uniform absorbency
• Clean (no lint)
• Uniform base color
• Uniform width
• No creases
• Neutral pH (7.0 - 7.5 is best for all printing)
• Alkalinity ≤ 0.05
• Causticized or mercerized

BASICS OF PIGMENT PRINT PASTE FORMULATION:

The development of a print paste begins with the thickener, which is used to control the viscosity
of the paste. For pigments, a synthetic thickener composed of a long chain polyacrylic acid is
used. These polymer acids, when neutralized, repulse each other by an electrostatic repulsion to
form a 3-dimensional network that thickens the aqueous solution. This increase in viscosity is
very useful in acting as an extender or thickener for the pigment colorant. The thickener is an
integral part of this print paste, producing a much smoother and more controlled application
especially in rotary screen-printing. The relationship between viscosity and printing is important
in all types of textile printing applications.

The synthetic thickener imparts a viscosity to an aqueous solution at rest. When stress is applied
to this solution, such as when the squeegee forces the print paste through the screen, the viscosity
is lowered. When the stress is removed, once the paste is through the screen and on the fabric,
the viscosity of the solution returns to the point where it was, at rest, before the stress was
applied. This principle is the basis for the rotary and flat screen-printing technique.

Viscosity determines the covering power of a colored fluid. If a fluid flows slowly or not at-all,
a large amount of force must be applied to compel the fluid to cover and therefore, color the
surface. Fluids that flow readily are thin and may require multiple coats before the substrate is
fully covered.

In Figure 1, Fluid 1 has a high viscosity relative to Fluid 2, which has a low viscosity. If these
two fluids are put on a plate next to each other and the plate is turned to vertical, Fluid 1 may
take 10 minutes to flow one centimeter. Similarly, Fluid 2 flows five centimeters in one minute.
This technique provides a way to measure the relative viscosity of the two fluids. The success of
the printing system will depend on the balance achieved between these two viscosity platforms.

2
 Figure 1. Viscosity and Flow

Thickener or Clear-Extender Preparation

A stock thickener will usually contain water, thickener concentrate, and a low concentration of
binder. The stock thickener might also include some of the auxiliaries used in printing. The
printer can then take what is needed of the stock thickener and add only pigment to the mix prior
to printing. The type of binder is based on the desired properties of the printed fabric. The
amount of binder is tied to the amount of pigment in the formula. Binder selection is explained
fully in Technical Bulletin ISP 1008. Tables I and II list the stock thickener and print paste
ingredients in order of addition. The processing steps are also included into the formulation.

The viscosity of the typical print paste is 17000 – 20000 centipoises (cPs) as measured on the
Brookfield® viscometer with spindle number 6 at 20 rpm. Some patterns require a lower
viscosity due to shade coverage. Some contours appear fuzzy if the viscosity is too low.
Specifying a viscosity on the formula sheet is critical to assured repeatability in pattern
production.

When pigments are chemically manufactured, the colorant is pressed in vats and trays to remove
water. The resulting product is called pigment press-cake and contains up to 25.0% non-
standardized pigment. Pigment colorants are supplied in three general concentration ranges. The
least concentrated pigments contain 7.0 – 10.0% pigment. These pigments are inexpensive, and
their quality varies (standard strength, hue, and particle size may vary on a wider range than in
the other concentrations).

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The middle range pigment dispersions contain 10.0-20.0% pigment and have more reliable
performance with regards to quality standard variation. Both the lower and mid concentrations
are produced directly from colorant press-cake. The third grouping is the concentrated pigments,
which contain up to 50.0% pigment and are standardized to a very high quality. Particle size in
the least concentrated pigments can vary from 2 to 25 microns. The higher concentration
pigments are finished in the 1 to 2 micron range, which produces a more uniform shade and a
higher color yield.

After mixing, the paste must be filtered through a vacuum strainer to remove any particles that
might cause screen mesh blockage in printing.

Table I. Stock Thickener Make-Up

Chemical Amount, g/kg Details
Water 700 Turn mixer on
Ammonia (aqueous)2 5 May be added by submerged tubing
Non-ionic surfactant3 5 Optional
Binder 30 Mixer baffle plate should be up
Thickener concentrate 30 Add slowly over 2-3 minutes
Softener4 15-30 Optional
Bulk with water5 Rotate mixer through volume of vessel to obtain
an even dispersion of concentrate
Total 1000

Table II. Print Paste Composition

Chemical Amount, g/kg Details
Stock Thickener 850
Pigment6 X Add to surface with mixer off
Binder7 Y Add only if pigment exceeds minimum
Turn on mixer
Auxiliaries8 Z If desired
Bulk with water9 Run mixer 3-5 minutes, measure viscosity
Thickener concentrate If needed for viscosity adjustment
Total 1000
____________________________
2
Ammonia is added to the tank before any other ingredient. Ammonia is useful in pH adjustment, water
conditioning, and neutralization. Some printing components are stabilized by ammonia, but this may evaporate
during storage. The addition of aqueous ammonia will insure better mixing and running properties. Using a
submerged pipe to add the ammonia will prevent large amounts from evaporating into the mix-room environment.
Once it is in solution and the other ingredients have been added, the smell is greatly reduced or eliminated.
3
Non-ionic surfactant aids in screen release and lubrication.
4
Only add after all thickener concentrate.
5
Mix 30 – 45 minutes after all ingredients are in tank. Baffle should be above surface of liquid at the beginning of
the mixing until the concentrate is all mixed in. Then the routine of moving the mixer in the tank can commence.
6
If the amount of pigment is small, the rapid movement of the stock paste should cause some of the color to be lost
on the side of the vessel.
7
The amount of binder in stock paste will be sufficient for light shades. Usually medium to heavy shades will
require additional binder.
8
The other auxiliaries are best added with the mixer running.
9
The mixer should run a minimum of 3 - 5 minutes to thoroughly disperse the pigment and auxiliaries. A small
sample should be taken and the viscosity measured on a viscometer. An adjustment can be made to the viscosity at
this time.

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Auxiliaries used in pigment printing:
• Auxiliary thickener - A solids modifier or other auxiliary thickeners are sometimes
added.
• Binder - This could include additional binder to improve fastness or a unique product for
special effects.
• Cross-linker - This product is almost always a melamine resin and is incorporated to
improve wash fastness.
• Plasticizer - This product is intended to work in the binder polymerization to improve
fabric handle. The term ‘softener’ is often used.
• Lubricant - This product may be a synthetic short-chain polymer, a surfactant with a high
molecular weight, a polyglycol or some form of ‘oil’, and is intended to reduce friction in
the printing process (pigment versus screen, etc.).
• Anti-wicking agent - These products help keep the print sharp and minimize print
movement across the surface of the fabric.

There are some auxiliaries that are used to try to rectify poor lab practices. These only treat the
symptoms and do not fix the cause:
• Antifoam – If the thickener is neutralized properly, it will not create foam.
• Humectants - harm crock and wash fastness and should be replaced by a surfactant with
an extremely high ethylene oxide number (See Lubricant above…).
• Penetrants - create additional problems of balancing fluidity against viscosity and should
be avoided. Absorbency of the fabric is where the focus should be.

SPECIALTY PRINTING PROCEDURES AND PROCESSES

RESIST PRINTING

Resist is the term that describes the prevention of the dyeing process by the application of a physical
or chemical substance to the fabric to prevent a dye’s access to the fabric. This is done in such a
manner so that a pattern is realized after the fabric is dyed.

Resist agents can be waxes, thickeners, surfactants-dispersing agents, organic acids, sulfites,
oxidizing agents, or reducing agents. Dyes for resist ground shades are fiber reactive dyes and,
to a lesser extent, direct and napthol dyes.

Mechanical Resist Printing

Batik is an example of a mechanical resist. Batik printing starts with the application of a wax,
such as melted candle wax, to the fabric in some pattern. As soon as the wax cools, it is almost
impervious to water thus setting up a mechanical or physical resist to a dye bath. The fabric is
then dyed in a dye bath where only the “unwaxed” areas become colored.

After the dyeing is complete, the fabric is boiled, and the wax is melted and reclaimed. Then the
process can be repeated with an additional application of melted wax, producing a second pattern.
The dyeing process is repeated with another dye and a second color is imparted to the fabric in a
new design. This process, historically performed by hand, can be done over and over resulting in a
multicolored work of art that will be difficult to reproduce.

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The process has been mechanized by use of specially modified print machines but only as a
single color design. There are combination physical and chemical processes, which are capable
of multiple color additions. Some of these are described in the literature10.

Chemical Resist Printing

A major innovation in resist printing was the development of the “reactive-under-reactive” resist
procedure. This means that one reactive dye is used for the ground shade, and another reactive
dye is used for the illuminating shade or colorant that is replacing the ground shade. This
procedure uses monochlorotriazine (MCT) dyes as the illuminating dye and vinyl sulfone (VS)
dyes as the ground shade. The resist is accomplished by the use of a sulfite or bi-sulfite agent
that prevents the VS dye from reacting with the cotton, but has little effect on the MCT dye.

This process has multiple application possibilities, but the most widespread use is the print and
over-print application. In this process the illuminating colors (MCT dyes) are printed first. The
blotch or solid ground shade (VS dyes) is applied immediately over the illuminating colors. The
whole process is carried out on the rotary screen print machine in one pass. The result is a faux
discharge design. See Tables III, IV, and V for resist stock and print paste formulation.

Table III. Stock Thickening Formula for Reactive/Reactive Resist Printing

Chemical Amount, g/kg Details
Thickener 700 Sodium alginate LV (10% solution)
Sodium bicarbonate11 30 Sodium bicarbonate: alkali needed for fixation
Oxidative compound 10 Sodium metabenzinesulfonate
Urea 150 Humectant
Water softener 10 Sodium hexametaphosphate
Water Bulk Water to total volume
Total 1000

Table IV. Print Paste Formula: Illuminating Color – MCT

Chemical Amount, g/kg Details
Fiber reactive dye - MCT 10 – 200 Liquid MCT fiber reactive dyes (selection)
Stock thickening12 700 +/- 50 g depending on viscosity requirement
Resist agent 30-40 Sulfite based – aldehyde / bisulfite compound
Water Bulk Water to total volume
Total 1000

Table V. Print Paste Formula: Blotch Color – VS

Chemical Amount, g/kg Details
Fiber reactive dye - VS 50 – 200 Liquid VS fiber reactive dyes (selection)
Stock thickening 700 +/- 50 g depending on viscosity requirement
Water Bulk Water to total volume
Total 1000

___________________________
10
Reservedruck-Verfahren (Resist Printing Processes) – W. Kretzschmar.
11
White resist requires soda ash as alkali for best results.
12
Viscosity rules are the same as for normal fiber reactive prints. 1500-2500 cps Brookfield Viscometer #6 Spindle
@ 20 rpm. Blotch should be 2500-3000 cps Brookfield Viscometer #6 Spindle @ 20 rpm and printed on the surface
with little penetration.

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Procedure: Reactive/Reactive Resist Printing
1. Print mercerized cotton with white and colored MCT resists.
2. Overprint VS color – full blotch screen wet-on-wet.
3. Dry printed fabric at maximum 250°F (120°C).
4. Steam fabric for 8 minutes with saturated steam at 214°F (102°C).
5. Soap and finish fixed prints as usual.

Table VI. Reactive/Reactive Resist Ground Shade Dye Selection – VS

Vinyl Sulfone Dye13 Color Index Resist Maximum Liquid Best Results
Br.Yellow 4GL Y160 Yes 160 g/kg
Br. Yellow GL Y37 Yes 160 g/Kg +
Yellow FG-A Y42 Yes 240 g/Kg +
Golden Yellow 3R-A O16 Yes 200 g/Kg +
Gold. Yellow RNL O107 Yes 200 g/kg
Bril. Scarlet R-3G - Yes 160 g/kg
Bril. Red GG R 106 Yes 200 g/kg +
Bril.Red BB - Yes 200 g/Kg
Bril. Red F3B-A R180 Yes 200 g/Kg +
Bril. Red 5B-A R35 Yes 200 g/kg
Bril. Violet 5R-A V5 Yes 250 g/Kg +
Bril.Blue R-A B19 Yes 240 g/Kg +
Navy Blue R-GB - Yes 240 g/Kg +
Black BA Liq.50 Blk5 Yes 100 g/Kg +
Deep Black N 150/Liq.50 mix Yes 140 g/kg +

Table VII. Reactive/Reactive Resist Illuminating Dye Selection – MCT

MCT Dye Color Index Stable to resist Minimum g/kg
Yellow 6G R Yel. 95 Yes
Yellow H4R R Yel. 18 Yes
Golden Yellow E2R / HE4R R Yel. 84 Yes
Golden Yellow P2R R Ora. 12 Yes
14
Red B R Red 24 Yes 10.0
Scarlet RN14 R Red 33 Yes 10.0
Red 6B14 R Red 218 Yes 10.0
Red 8B14 R Red 31 Yes 10.0
Basilen® Bordeaux P2B14 R- Yes 10.0
Cibacron® Violet P2R14 R Viol. 2 Yes 10.0
Blue P3R R Blue 49 Yes
Turquoise PGR R Blue 72 Yes
Turquoise HA R Blue 71 Yes
Navy PNR R- Yes
Navy P2R R- Yes
Grey S R- Yes
Black GR R- Yes

_________________________________________
13
All Turquoise Dyes - G 133/ G-A WILL NOT RESIST.
14
All red MCT dyes are sensitive to sulfite and lose color value. Dye concentration should be maintained above
10.0 g/kg.

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Pigment Discharge Printing
Pigment discharge is a technique where a dischargeable dye is removed from a fabric and
replaced with a pigment. Pigment discharge printing pastes incorporate a reducing agent that is
stable to acid combined with discharge-resistant pigments and binder. Although it is preferred to
dry and then steam the fabric after printing to obtain the maximum degree of discharge, a limited
amount of discharge can be obtained in gas fired curing ovens.

This process has to some extent enjoyed a revival in the t-shirt printing trade for specialty
designs, but it can be applied to roll goods as well. It is a less expensive alternative to vat
discharge.15 The most dependable dischargeable dyeings are produced with VS fiber reactive dyes
as described in the Print Chemistry of Vat Dyes and Vat Discharge Technical Bulletin ISP 1016.
Tables VIII and IX detail the formulation of the discharge stock paste and the discharge print
paste.

Table VIII. Discharge Stock Paste

Chemical Amount, g/kg
Pigment binder 30 – 150
Diammonium phosphate16 7
Glycerin 20
Urea 100
Thickener e.g. locus bean ether 8%17 600
Bulk with water 175 -130
Total 1000

Table IX. Discharge Print Paste

Chemical Amount, g/kg
Pigment Color18 20- 60
Stock paste 850-810
Discharge agent19 100-130
Bulk with water 30
Total 1000

This discharge formula normally prevents halo formation on the ground. After drying, the prints
undergo 6 – 10 minutes treatment with saturated steam at 215ºF (102ºC). The pigments are, when
necessary, additionally thermo fixed for five minutes at 302ºF (150oC). If the process is conducted
without steaming, the thermo fixation process accomplishes both the discharge and pigment
fixation. Typically, this process is, in fact, a modification of the print drying process. After printing,
the fabric is dried in a direct gas fired drying oven. Extending the drying time and modulating the
temperature will produce the discharge. The dwell time would be 5 – 10 minutes and a maximum
temperature of 250ºF (120ºC).

__________________________________________________
15
Dillman, G., Hoechst AG/Practical Hints (1982).
16
Acid donor. A synthetic thickener may be used which would eliminate the need for an acid donor.
17
Acid stable thickener that can be incorporated directly into the stock paste,
18
Pigments must be discharge-resistant or the discharge process will decolorize the pigment color.
19
1:1 Zinc sulfoxylate formaldehyde.

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Plissé Prints
Plissé is the process where a strong alkali is applied to 100% cotton fabric in a pattern. After a
reaction time of several minutes, the fabric is washed to remove the alkali. The alkali will cause
the fabric to shrink in the printed area. The shrinkage causes puckering in the adjacent non-
printed areas. If the print pattern is a parallel stripe, the resulting fabric will have a seersucker
appearance. The application can be direct, where the alkali is printed onto the fabric, followed
by dwell time on a conveyor belt to allow for reaction (see Table X). Alternatively, the fabric can
be printed with a print paste containing a water repellant chemical plus a binder. After curing, the
fabric is passed through a strong alkaline bath and then allowed to react before washing. This
second method is sometimes referred to a “Fitted Plissé” (see Tables XI and XII). In both cases
the washed fabric shows a differential shrinking effect known as plissé.

Table X. Print Paste – Direct Plissé Print

Chemical Amount, g/kg Details
Thickener 35 Starch ether
Sodium hydroxide, 50% 800 Alkali (50ºBè - 106º Tw)
Wetting agent 2 Anionic wetting agent
Water Bulk Water to total volume
Total 1000

Table XI. Print Paste – Fitted Plissé

Chemical Amount, g/kg Details
Thickener 35 Polyacrylate
Wax emulsion 100 Water repellant
Fluoro-chemical 10 Water repellant
Binder 200 Styrene acrylate
Cross linking agent 5
Water Bulk Water to total volume
Total 1000

Table XII. Padding – For Fitted Plissé

Chemical Amount, g/kg Details
Water 198
Sodium Hydroxide, 50% 800 Add sodium hydroxide to water
Wetting agent 2
Total 1000

Burn Out Prints

Cotton and other cellulosic fibers are destroyed by strong mineral acids or their acid salts. This
procedure is sometimes referred to as “Burn Out”. A cotton / polyester blended fabric can be
printed with a print paste containing the burn out chemicals, and after fixation, the cotton portion
is destroyed and only the polyester remains. This allows a patterned lacey design to be imparted
to the fabric. It also is possible to incorporate a disperse dye in the burn out paste and dye the
polyester during the burn out phase. This process is very corrosive and requires special screens
and special care in handling. Table XIII contains the “Burn Out” print paste formula.

9
Table XIII. Burn Out Print Paste Formula
Chemical Amount, g/kg Details
Thickener 48 Guar gum
Ethanol 50
Emulsifying agent 20
Humectant 100 Glycerin
Anionic Wetter 20
Aluminum Sulfate 85 Creates mineral acid
Water Bulk Water to total volume
Total 1000

Garment Printing
Garment printing, also called Unit Printing, is typically performed by small operations and done
in batch-on-demand form. Although many items of clothing and other unit items are printed, the
most recognizable is the t-shirt.

Some of the other items commonly printed by this process are caps, sweat shirts, and towels.
Printing is typically done on carousel unit printing machines. This process can be manual or
automated to the point where only attendants are needed to add and remove the items being
printed. These machines are available with four to as many as twenty printing stations. Computer
process control can accommodate differences in each screen of a particular pattern and control
external drying ovens and other systems incorporated in the process. See Figure 2.

Figure 2. Carousel Unit Printing Machine Photo courtesy of Anatol Equipment Mfg. Co

SPECIALTY PIGMENTS AND OTHER COLORANTS

Puff Prints
Sculptured designs can be added to the fabric by the print application of a compound known as a
Puff Print Extender. This compound swells when heated to create a three dimensional effect on
the fabric. When applied in a discontinuous pattern, this product can create a puckered effect on
the fabric as it dries and contracts during the curing phase. The puff paste can be colored with
pigments and can be used to create faux embroidery looks. The products available are intended
to be used “as is” no formulation or dilution necessary.

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Plastisol Prints
Plastisol inks are made up of polyvinyl chloride resin, plasticizers, and pigments.20 According to
Rutland Industries, this balanced system of solids to liquids is a finished product ready to print.
Additives such as dye migration blockers, fillers, puff, and stabilizers can be incorporated into
the formula depending on the final product requirements.21 These products are sold ready to use
in screen-printing for all types of unit printing applications. The most common form of unit
printing is garment printing.

Plastisol inks are thixotropic. That means the mixture is high in viscosity when at rest and is low
in viscosity when shear or movement is applied. Shear or movement of the plastisol against the
surface of the container or screen can generate heat. During mixing or printing as friction heat
builds, the viscosity decreases. As temperature decreases, viscosity then increases.

T-shirt printing is most often done in a non-textile facility. Plastisol inks can be loaded with
“block-out” fillers which allow the printing of designs, on dark dyed t-shirts, which are visible
and completely cover the dark background. The resulting prints sometimes show an increase in
stiff handle due to these additives.

Water-based pigment inks have been developed which yield a more acceptable handle. Screen
drying of these water-based products present a problem of running properties similar to normal
textile printing. However, the clean up of screens and equipment is done with soap and water and
does not require the use of solvents which makes these products more environment-friendly.

For a plastisol ink to fully cure, the water in the garment must first be dried off, then the resin in
the ink swells to react with the plasticizer to form a film. Table XIV details some of the
variables which can impact curing of plastisol inks.

Table XIV. Variables in Curing Plastisol Inks.20

Variable Description
Fiber type Some fibers hold more water than others (cotton vs. nylon)
Fabric color Dark garments heat faster than light colored garments
Garment weight Heavier garments take longer to heat to temperature
Fabric construction Fabrics with greater surface area will take a long time to heat
Ink thickness Thicker prints will take longer to heat than soft-hand prints
Ink type Specialty inks may take longer to heat then conventional inks
Room temperature Ambient conditions may impact dryer efficiency
and humidity

_______________________________
20
Union Ink Company, 1997
21
Rutland Plastics Technologies, Pineville, NC

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Phototropic Colors
Phototropic colors are pigments with an ability to change or shift their chromophore and become
visible when exposed to ultraviolet light. An example of this technology is the pair of sunglasses
that automatically darken when exposed to the sun’s UV light rays. These pigments have been
used, in lower concentrations, in prints on textile fabrics. These colorants are expensive and have
poor light fastness. Normal indoor exposure will destroy the color in several weeks. Outdoor
exposure will destroy the color in less than ten hours. These products are applied as pigments.

Theromotropic Colors
Thermotropic or thermochromic colorants have the ability to become colorless upon exposure to
heat. This reaction is wholly reversible, and the color returns upon removal of the heat source.
These pigments can be blended to react under a range of temperatures. They can also be blended
with conventional pigments so that a change in shade develops under the exposure to heat. Some
commercial success has been achieved with garments that change shade as the wearer exercises
and the body temperature increases. These colors may be applied by printing, pad dyeing, and
garment exhaust dyeing as pigments. Thermotropic colors are more stable than the phototropic
colors but still have poor lightfastness. These colorants are more expensive than conventional
pigments, and their color strength is one tenth as strong.

Metallic Pigments
Metallic pigments such as pigment gold and pigment silver are used in decoration on apparel
fabric achieving a faux metallic lame’. Traditionally these products were dispersions of very fine
grinds of bronze (gold) and aluminum (silver) combined with a melamine resin to offer
maximum binding power. The print paste was basically a pigment dispersion, and these earliest
prints had very poor wash fastness. In addition, the handle was very stiff and some of the
metallic particles would flake off in normal use. Today these products are more consumer
friendly in that their binder system imparts a better hand, and the metallic particles have been
coated with an epoxy to prevent tarnishing and to increase fastness.

Presently many “metallic” pigments contain no metal. These are compounded with normal
textile pigments in a pearlescent dispersion or the actual pigments are made from chopped
polyester film.

Sparkle or Glitter Prints

Glitter prints are made with special pastes incorporating flakes that are polyester chips; these can
be dyed for color or plated for a metallic appearance. They are available in several sizes ranging
from 50 microns to 1.6 mm. The base is a modified curable optically clear product with very low
viscosity. Sparkle print is a special condition produced when an undyed glitter flake produces a
sparkle or shimmer effect. This is accomplished by using these flakes in combination with
special binders that refract light in this manner. Normal pigments can be incorporated into the
glitter base for special effects.

Since the particle size of a glitter flake is so large, relative to a standard pigment particle, special
screens with a large mesh must be used to apply them to the fabric (40 – 60 mesh maximum).

12
Fluorescent Pigments
Fluorescent colorants are called light emitting colorants. These products absorb ultra violet (UV)
and visible light and emit the light in different wavelengths, which makes them appear to glow.
These are sometimes referred to as “hot” pigments. These colors can be printed alongside normal
pigments, but it is not recommended that the fluorescent color be shaded with the normal
pigment as the brightness may be lost and the resulting shade may be very dull.

Originally, these colors were based strictly on fluorescent basic and acid dyes that could be
coagulated with various resins. The water fastness was very poor. Now the manufacture includes
a micro-coating process that has increased the efficiency of these products.

There are five to six basic fluorescent pigments, and these can be mixed with each other to
produce as many as ten specialty fluorescent colorants. Fastness to washing and dry cleaning is
fair to good. Fastness to light is usually poor.

Block-out Prints
Block-out is a term used to describe the over-printing of a pigment print on a dark dyed fabric
that results in an easily seen colored print. Normally, the pigment would be over-come by the
dye shade and would not be visible. The block-out paste imparts a white background to the
pigment and prevents the dyed shade from interfering or “blocks out the dyed shade.” The paste
is based on a pigment white modified with special clay to provide much better covering power to
the white base. The base can be used to produce a white or colored fabric with normal pigments
for a colored pattern.

Pearlescent Pigments
Pearlescent print pastes are utilized to give a luster or a shiny appearance to the print. Both pearl
and mother-of-pearl can be used to affect the result. A synthetic powder made from polyester has
been used to compound the pearlescent paste. The particle size is again, as with the glitter paste,
relatively large (25 – 50 µ), and screen mesh selection to accommodate these particles must be
taken into consideration.

TROUBLESHOOTING

If manufacturer’s instructions say “print direct from the drum”, can the product be
altered? Manufacturers typically instruct printers to use specialty products as they are
compounded. If the printer desires a lower or higher viscosity or some other modification, it is
usually best to make a small trial to determine the limits of alteration that the products will
tolerate. Check with the product supplier and refer to the technical data sheets to determine what
additives are compatible with their print system.

What causes print screens to clog? Many specialty prints contain components with non-
uniform particle size. Screen clogging occurs anytime the components in the print paste build-up
and blocks the openings in the screen. Utilization of the proper screen mesh will help prevent
this occurrence. Other factors that can contribute to screen clogs are:

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 • The pH of most print pastes should be maintained on the slightly alkaline side (8.0-8.5).
If the pH falls below 7.0, the paste viscosity will drop dramatically causing an
agglomeration of the thickener. The print binder may also start to polymerize as the pH
drops.
• Colorant dispersion problems, which usually begin with specks forming in the print
design, can also block the screen. It is always recommended that the print paste be
strained before it is put in the screen.
• Undissolved or poorly dispersed thickener concentrate may eventually lead to blocked
screens. This problem does not immediately show itself, since it is only after time that the
thickener swells so that the agglomerations become too large to pass through the screen.
• Lint on the surface of a fabric can stick to the screen and block openings in the mesh.

What are the elements that adversely impact print appearance?

• Improper print paste viscosity
• Improperly prepared fabric
• Fabric with non-uniform absorbency
• Fabric with contaminants such as salt or oil
• Inadequate lint removal from fabric
• Improper screen mesh selection
• Poor print registration
• Contaminated color

Problems most often encountered in pigment printing are summarized in Table XV. The
frequency of the defects is noted in the Percentage column. The subsequent columns indicate
what factors can contribute to a particular defect. This table illustrates how important well-
prepared fabric is to the production of first quality fabric.

Table XV. Printing Defects

Defect Percentage Color Machine Screen Fabric
Machine Stops 40% X X X X
Out of Fit (Registration) 25% X X X
Clogged Screen Mesh 9% X X X
Color Smears / Mark-off 8% X X X
Color Flushing 7% X X
Cloth 6% X X
Contaminated Color 5% X X
Statistical summary 22 100%
______________________
22
The “Opportunities” Of Rotary Screen Printing - Alan W. Hewett, ABCO Textile Chemicals

The statements, recommendations and suggestions contained herein are based on experiments and information believed to be reliable only with regard
to the products and/or processes involved at the time. No guarantee is made of their accuracy, however, and the information is given without warranty
as to its accuracy or reproducibility either expressed or implied, and does not authorize use of the information for purposes of advertisement or
product endorsement or certification. Likewise, no statement contained herein shall be construed as a permission or recommendation for the use of
any information, product or process that may infringe any existing patents. The use of trade names does not constitute endorsement of any product
mentioned, nor is permission granted to use the name Cotton Incorporated or any of its trademarks in conjunction with the products involved.

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 Importer Support Program

The Cotton Board and Cotton Incorporated are funded by U.S. upland cotton growers and
importers of cotton and cotton products (this includes raw cotton, piece goods, and finished
apparel). A percentage of the importer funds are devoted for importer specific programs
organized under the Importer Support Program. Examples of projects funded from this fund
include training schools, educational programs, focus groups, economic meetings, and research
initiatives.

Selected technical issues have been identified by importer members as relevant to their business.
This report is a condensed, less technical report of those issues intended to provide the reader
with basic, yet useful information on the topic.

For more information contact:

COTTON INCORPORATED COTTON INCORPORATED

WORLD HEADQUARTERS CONSUMER MARKETING HEADQUARTERS
6399 WESTON PARKWAY 488 MADISON AVENUE
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Visit our website at: www.cottoninc.com