IJIESE

rres
How to Make and Fly Them
JL

by David F. Ju®
 Chinese Kites
How to Make and Fly Them
CHINESE KITES
How to Make and Fly Them

by David F. Jue

CHARLES E. TUTTLE CO.: PUBLISHERS

Rutland, Vermont & Tokyo, Japan
Representatives
For Continental Europe:
Boxerbooks, Inc., Zurich
For the British Isles:
Prentice-Hall International,, Inc., London
For Australasia:
Paul Flesch & Co., Pty. Ltd., Melbourne
For Canada:
m.g. hurtig ltd., Edmonton

Published by the Charles E. Tuttle Company, Inc.,

of Rutland, Vermont & Tokyo, Japan
with editorial offices at
Suido 1-chome, 2-6, Bunkyo-ku, Tokyo

Copyright in Japan, 1967 by Charles E. Tuttle Company, Inc.

All rights reserved

Library of Congress Catalog Card No. 67-16412

First edition, 1967

Book design by Keiko Chiba

PRINTED IN JAPAN
 Contents

Introduction by John D. Romano 7

The History of Kites 10
Fishing with Kites 14
Firecracker Scarecrows 15
Centipede Kites 16
The Festival of Ascending on High 19
Kite Fights 20
The Fertility Kite 22
Making Your Own Chinese Kite 24
Materials and Where to Get Them 24
Tools Required 27
General Techniques 28
Making Kite Frames 28
Covering Kite Frames 29
Decorating Kite Covers 29
Making and Attaching the Tail 30
Bridles 31
Launching Your Kite 33
Kite Designs and Instructions 34
Orange Kite 34

5
 Pine Tree Kite 35
Schoolhouse Kite 36
Octagon Kite 38
Tree Kite 40
Butterfly Kite 42
Redtail Hawk Kite 44
Three-Deck High Flyer 46
Fish Kite 48
Flying Lampshade 50

6
 Introduction

David F. Jue (rhymes with “dew”) was born in Kwangtung Province in southeastern
China, the province in which the city of Canton is located. He migrated to America
at the age of fourteen.
Facing the challenge of a new life, he earned money for his education and prospered
as a salesman in California. During the many years of his residence in Fresno, I came
to know this gentleman intimately. He retired in 1948 and made his home in Palo
Alto, but his abundant energy found no outlet. He joined the brokerage office of
Sutro & Co., retiring again in 1963.
Beside an avenue near his Palo Alto home, Mr. Jue noticed a fine clump of green
bamboo destined to be uprooted in a street-widening project. In the culture of Mr.
Jue^s boyhood, the bamboo is a pervasive symbol, a gift from nature of grace and
beauty—and, to the eminently practical Chinese, a uniquely useful item. This gift
of nature was meant to be either cherished or harvested for use. He proceeded to
rescue the bamboo from the indignity of the bulldozer and the waste of the trash heap.
What more natural than that the feel of the bamboo in his hands should recall
pleasant memories from his boyhood—and that kite-making should be one of them ?
Mr. Jue had found a new and consuming interest in life. He began making kites as
he remembered them of old, eventually inventing new designs and adapting the old
techniques to the materials at hand in his community.
A soaring kite, beautifully formed and painted, with colorful streaming tails, is a
striking sight in this increasingly mechanical and prosaic age. The children of the

7
neighborhood flocked about whenever Mr. Jue lofted his kites and soon joined in the
fun. Inevitably, they invaded his workshop and joined in the fun of making and paint¬
ing the kites, as well.
Mr. Jue^s personal diversion had gained a new dimension. Teaching children and
sharing their unreserved delight at a first launching was mofe fun than merely making
kites for his own amusement. And the sudden upsurge of interest in an exotic handi¬
craft and constructive sport soon leaped the boundaries of Mr. Jue^s neighborhood.
Feature articles appeared in the newspapers of Palo Alto, San Jose, and San Francisco.
Schools and department stores invited Mr. Jue to give demonstrations. Hundreds of
inquiries came by mail and telephone. The spreading interest in Chinese kite-making
has encouraged Mr. Jue in his effort to bring an ancient and rewarding folk-art to the
youth of his adopted land.

by John D. Romano

8
 Chinese Kites
How to Make and Fly Them
The History of Kites

Kites were in use in China long before the beginnings of written history. Bamboo for
frames was native to the land. Silk has been produced in China since stone-age times,
as long ago as 2600 b.c. With bamboo available for frames and silk for the coverings
and the flying lines, the art of kite-making arose as an amusement and as an adjunct
of the primitive religions. By the beginning of historical times, kites were already
widely used from Korea to Southeast Asia.
According to a Chinese legend, the Chinese people of the Han dynasty were saved
from being conquered by a barbarian army through ingenious use of a kite. A certain
Huan Theng, a great scholar and advisor to the emperor, was called upon for a plan
to defeat or rout the superior forces of the invader.
Huan Theng put his clever mind to work. The palace walls were vulnerable only
from one side, so the enemy forces were deployed only in one direction from the
palace. As Huan Theng stood on the ramparts, surveying the scene and pondering the
problem, his hat was lifted off by the strong, steady wind and sailed away across the
fields. In Huan Theng^s quick mind, the problem was solved. He advised the emperor
to cause a number of kites to be made. Huang Theng busied himself making a number
of special sounding devices. He trimmed a piece of bamboo very, very thin, and tied
each end to a bow-shaped twig and attached it to the top of the kite.
In the darkest, eeriest time of the night, the kites were lofted above the positions
of the enemy. The wind vibrating the sounding devices produced sounds like low
moans and high-pitched wails. Spies sent into the enemy lines spread the word that

10
11
the gods were warning them that they would be destroyed. The enemy fled in terror.
Huang Theng may well have used paper to cover his kites. The origin of paper in
China has been traced back at least as far as 200 b.c., when the Han dynasty was
young. When paper became commonplace, the cheaper material put kite-making
into the reach of all. The kite, probably first a jealously guarded stratagem of the
primitive priest-magician and then the expensive toy of the wealthy, became a folk
art of the people and as such survives today.
Widespread kite-making among the people insured the transmission of the art from
generation to generation. Time and again the people found protection in the use of
kites. About a.d. 500, Emperor Liang Moo used kites as signals to rally his soldiers in
time of danger. A large army could not be kept constantly at the palace. They were
allowed to disperse to work their farms. When danger threatened, kites were flown
from high points across the countryside as a signal to assemble at the palace. Once
when the enemy had closed in quickly and surrounded the palace, the emperor di¬
rected his commander, Gan Mon, to loft the kites. In response, kites arose from point
after point across the land. The army assembled at a distance and attacked the enemy
from the rear, routing them utterly.
Kites have also been used for individual or family protection. Using a sounding
device similar to that of Huan Theng, or a sort of flute made from perforated reed or
bamboo, kites were lofted over the house throughout the night to frighten away thieves
and bandits. The more superstitious continue this practice to protect the house from
the evil spirits of the night.

12
13
Fishing with Kites

People go fishing in china, just as

they do here. Those who can af¬
ford it have boats; others just sit
on the banks of the river or lake.
On a breezy day, you may see
kites flying above the water with
a long string tied to the tail. At
the end of this string, a hook with
the bait is submerged under the
water. When a fish bites, the
fisherman pulls the kite in. This
sight is very common around
lakes and rivers.

14
Firecracker Scarecrows

On remotely placed farms where

numerous birds to invade the
crops, farmers often have their
children fly kites with firecrackers
tied to the tails. Slow burning
incense attached to the fuses sets
off the firecrackers at intervals,
scaring the birds away.

15
Centipede Kite

One of the largest kites made in China is the centipede kite. The Chinese word
for the centipede also means “One Hundred Legs.” This kite ranges in size
from a few feet to fifty feet and longer. The centipedeJs body is made of ring-
shaped bamboo frames covered with colored paper and strung together, a foot
or more apart, one after another. Bamboo sticks cross the upper third of the
frames, and protrude six inches beyond the edges. On both ends of each stick
streamers of colored paper represent legs. Four strings run the length of the
centipede^ body, one attached to the protruding stick on each side and one
along top and bottom, hold all the circles together. When this kite is in the air,
the individual parts wiggle in the breeze, making the centipede seem alive. The
head is five or six times larger than the body frames. As the frames near the
tail, they grow smaller. The end frame is sometimes only about the size of a
silver dollar coin. It is necessary to have heavy twine and, in the case of a very
large centipede kite, a team of men to control its flight. The flight of a huge
centipede kite in the sky is indeed a spectacular sight!

16
17
18
The Festival of Ascending on High

The Chinese meteorologists discovered long ago that easterly winds usually
prevail during the first part of September, creating a more ideal weather for
kite-flying than at any other time of the year. So the period from the first to
the ninth of September was established as The Festival of Ascending on High.
After school, students fly kites of all shapes and designs. On the ninth day of
the festival; the schools declare a holiday so that all of the pupils can fly their
kites to their hearts* content. At the end of the day; when one is finished flying
his kite, one lets the kite gO; string and all. All of the evil; bad luck, and sickness
are carried away with the kite. Custom requires that whoever finds the kite
after it has fallen to the ground must burn it; just as we burn Christmas trees
after Christmas.

19
Kite Fights

Kite fighting is very popular in China and is the most exciting sport of the kite-flying
season. Each participant puts special care into the design and construction of his.kite
to obtain the utmost stability and maneuverability. He coats about a hundred feet of
the flying line, nearest the kite, with glue and applies powdered glass or sand. This
provides an abrasive surface which he will use to attempt to saw through the flying
line of his adversary. It is also a defense against his line being sawed by his opponent.
The decoration of these kites is something to behold! Each is painted to represent
the most ferocious, frightening demon that the owner can imagine. The more scarey
the decoration, the better are the owners chances of victory!
The contestants loft their kites, then take up positions from forty to sixty feet apart.
The kites are flown at a much lower angle to the ground than normally. At this low
angle, they tend to dart and dodge in fast swoops. The object is to engage the strings,
try to maintain a more vigorous sawing motion with the flying line than one^s op¬
ponent, be careful not to lose the lift of the wind, and saw the opponents flying line
in two. The victor obtains right of ownership of the vanquished kite.
In another and easier version of the kite fight, the object is to entangle the flying
lines, maneuver to cause the opponents kite to lose lift, and haul it in dangling from
one5s own flying line.

20
The Fertility Kite

Rice is the staple food of the millions living in southern China. With the average
farmer, the rice crop is not to sell for cash but for consumption by his family. A good
crop means survival for another year.
When the farmer’s son comes of age, the farmer presents him with a flrice kite” to
fly over his newly assigned rice paddies. The design and shape of the kite are not
important, but a sheaf of unthreshed rice is attached to dangle head down from each
side and another sheaf is tied to the tail. As the kite is lofted over the son^s paddies,
the action of the wind shakes the rice grains from the straw, sprinkling them over the
ground. If he can keep the kite aloft until all of the grains have dropped, he is as¬
sured of bountiful crops from this land henceforth.

22
Making Your Own Chinese Kite

Materials and Where to Get Them

Split bamboo is the most suitable material for kite frames. It is both light and
strong. Tough and flexible,, it can be bent into loops which will retain their shapes.
A very convenient source of bamboo,, already split and practically ready for use, is
available everywhere today at a very nominal cost. Most stores selling outdoor
furniture also sell shades made of split bamboo. Locally, I have been able to buy them
at Sears Roebuck, Montgomery Ward, and Thrift Drugstores. For example, I am now
using strips from some that I bought for 89 cents each. A shade 26" high and 48" wide
contains about 50 lengths of split bamboo, enough for as many as 15 kites. While
these strips should be shaved down a bit for the smaller kites to eliminate weight, I
use them just as they are for the larger kites. I also am using bamboo from a 72" X 144"
shade which cost S3.50. From this shade I can make at least 200 butterfly kites. This
size is most economical, less than 2 cents per kite frame, and is an especially good
source for hobby centers, schools, or any organized group. Look for shades in which
the width of the strips is .25 to .4 inches, .5 inches at the most.
In addition, each shade has a round section of bamboo at top and bottom which
can be split once and used for center posts.

Rice paper is best for covering kite frames. It also is light, strong, and tough. When
dry it is as tough as cloth and much lighter in weight. It is easily torn or punctured

24
when wet, but dries quickly becoming as tough as before. Since decorating with
water colors wets the paper, reasonable care not to punch the brush through the
paper and an adequate drying period before flying are necessary. But the virtues of
rice paper so outweigh this factor that I can not honestly recommend any substitute
that I have tried.
Practically any stationery store or art supply shop, including such counters in the
department stores, can sell you good quality rice paper at reasonable cost. I have been
paying 25 to 30 cents for a 40" by 24" sheet. Such a sheet will cover any kite described
in this book and will cover two of the smaller types such as the bat or butterfly.

Tying string for securing the joints of the kite frame is not a very critical item. Com¬
mon 4-ply cotton string such as stores once used to wrap packages is suitable. A heavy
gauge sewing thread is also good, if you make a few more turns for strength, and it
makes neater knots. You want strength without bulk and without stretch. Here, com¬
mon sense should be an adequate guide.

Glue for securing the joints of the kite frame may be any type which dries rapidly to
a tough, rather than brittle, condition. I recommend one of the white glues such as
Elmer's Glue-All, by Borden, or Carter's Nu-Glu.

Paints for decorating the cover may be whatever you like to use. Watercolors and
poster paints are easy for the novice painter. If you are new to such decorating, I
suggest that you go to any art supply outlet, explain what you want to do, and obtain
the brushes and paints recommended to you for the purpose.

Tails are usually made from the same cord used in the flying line with rag strips about
2 inches wide and 6 inches long tied in at 6-inch intervals. But you may also use a rag
strip or cloth tape instead of cord. Where the kite needs a double tail, use a crepe
paper tape of the type used for holiday room-decoration.

23
Flying line and Bridle must be as strong as the size of your kite demands and as light
in weight as the strength requirement permits. For the smaller kites,, I pay 10 cents
for a 275-foot ball of 3-ply, 6 lb-test twine called “Household and Kite Twine/'’ For
the larger kites, I buy a 16 lb-test cable cord which comes in 200-foot rolls.

Reels for flying lines can be made in a simple but useful form from soft wood. Some
shapes are illustrated above. Similar reels made of heavy wire are sold in toy stores.

26
Tools Required

Knives used in working with bamboo should have a heavy, inflexible, short blade, and
a thick handle upon which you can get a good grip. The blade must be of high-quality
steel which will take a keen edge. You shodld keep the blade very sharp. More ac¬
cidents happen when using dull knives than with sharp knives.

Saws are handy for cutting bamboo strips into proper lengths. A small saw with fine
teeth in cross-cut arrangement works best with bamboo.

Scissors are needed for cutting string and trimming rice paper for covers. Any good
pair of paper shears will be suitable.

A ruler is handy to have for measuring bamboo lengths and drawing designs on
covers.

Pencils are needed for drawing outlines of kite cover design prior to painting. A
fairly soft-leaded drawing pencil or common lead-pencil is suitable.

Paint brushes used will depend upon type of paints used and you can be advised by
sales persons at the art supply store. But you must remember that you will be painting
upon a finished kite and that the rice paper upon which you are painting will not be
supported by a flat surface. Since rice paper tears rather easily when wet, your brush
must be soft and flexible.

27
General Techniques

Making Kite Frame

Select strips of split bamboo for each component of the frame. Remember that the kite
must be balanced. Strips for symmetrical positions on the left and right of the kite should
be as nearly as possible of the same overall weight. Crosspieces should be as even as
possible in cross-section from one end to the other. Overall weight can be compared
roughly by simply placing strips side by side and matching dimensions. Or, you can
compare weights on a simple balance. Evenness from one end to the other can be
insured by measuring across the width with a ruler at points among the length.
Soak those strips which must be bent in water for an hour or two, so that they will
bend without breaking.
Assemble the frame in the sequence indicated in the instructions.
Cut tying string into 6-inch lengths. Where bamboo strips cross each other, make
at least two turns with string through both diagonals of the crossing point. Where
bamboo strips are to be spliced together in parallel position, make two ries as far apart
as the arrangement permits. Tie off with a square-knot. If you are not sure that you
make a real square-knot, tie the knot twice to be sure it will not slip. Clip off excess
string neatly.
Check the balance of the kite. Always do this before gluing the knots. The critical
balance involves the weight on each side of the vertical axis, or centerpole. Rest one
tip of the centerpole on the edge of a table and support the other tip upon your finger
with the kite resting in a horizontal plane. If the kite tends to rotate, with one side
tipping down and the other rising up, one side is heavier than the other.
When the kite is flying, there are two elements involved in balance: (1) weight
distribution on each side of the centerpole. (2) surface area against which the wind
presses and its distribution on each side of the centerpole. If the kite does not balance.

28
first take measurements to insure that the centerpole is in the center of what will be¬
come the kite’s surface area. Loosen knots and adjust centerpole position,, if necessary.
If centerpole is found to be accurately centered,, the imbalance is due to the weight
of bamboo strips on one side being greater than those on the other. Inspect strips for
excessively thick areas on the heavy side and reduce weight by whittling away the
excess thickness. Since you want the frame to be as light as possible, I do not recom¬
mend adjusting balance by adding counterweight to the light side.
When you are certain that the positions of the bamboo strips are correct, apply
glue to the joints and knots. Use just enough glue to soak the string thoroughly. When
the glue has dried, you will have a rigid kite frame which will stand the stresses and
vibrations of flying. Generally, it is best not to continue work on the kite until glue
has dried.

Covering Kite Frame

Place a sheet of rice paper on a table and position the completed frame so that the
paper will cover the desired areas. Trace around the outside perimeter of the frame
areas, leaving a margin of \ inch for overlap. Then cut out the traced shape with your
paper shears.
Position the frame on the cut-out paper in such manner that the centerpole is the
uppermost component of the frame. Apply white glue to the margins of the rice paper
and fold the margins back over the bamboo, or string, portions of the frame.

Decorating Kite Cover

The color pictures of kite decoration provided in this book will serve as a guide in
making your kite really look Chinese. Note the bright colors and the combinations
of colors. Where the kite represents a living creature, note the use of color to enhance
and emphasize the basic patterns of nature. Of course you do not have to copy these
designs slavishly. You are quite free to exercise your own creative talents—and you
will certainly enjoy this part of kite-making more if you do so.

29
 Before you start to decorate the kite, remember to spread some old newspapers,
wrapping paper, canvas, etc., on the table or floor to catch any paint that spills or
drips through the rice paper.
When applying the paints, the rice paper necessarily becomes wet. It will tear
easily, so you must paint with gentle strokes. Also, the paper will sag when wet. Do
not worry about this. It will draw tight on the frame again when it dries.
Do not continue work on the kite until paper dries.

Making and Attaching the Tail

All flat kites need tails. Without a tail, the kite would loop and spin beyond the control
of the most expert handler. A tail is not needed on the flying lampshade because the
combination of its 3-dimensional airframe with its low point of attachment to the
flying line is naturally stable. The same applies to the conventional box kite.
The tail provides stability by virtue of both its weight and its air-resistance. A
well-designed tail limits the movements of the kite in response to changes of wind
pressure and direction but does not suppress the lifelike grace of the kite^s dance with
the wind. And a good tail also dances. If the tail is too long, too heavy, or too inflex¬
ible, the tail will “wag the kiteT If the tail is too short, the kite will loop and spin.
The tail requirements vary with the size and shape of the kite and also with wind
conditions. The average kite in normal conditions performs best with from 10 to 15
feet of tail. A very large kite, or a small kite on a very windy day, may need a 25-foot
tail.
The standard single kite tail is made by knotting strips of cloth into a strong cord
at intervals. Using strips about 2" X 6" cut from rags or cloth tape, knot the cord
about the center of the cloth strip so that the strip stands out equally to each side of
the length of cord. If you knot the strip to the cord, the strips will slide down the cord
and end up in a bundle. An interval of about six inches between strips is usually best.
The performance of both kite and tail can be adjusted in two ways: (1) by shortening
or lengthening the tail. (2) by changing the interval between strips.

30
 A variation on this standard tail is made
using a long strip of cloth or cloth tape in¬
stead of the cord. In this case, the short
cloth strips can be knotted about the center
strip without slippage, if tightly knotted.
Some kite designs look more natural with
double tails. The butterfly, redtail hawk,
and fish kites are good examples. The
standard-type tails in a double arrange¬
ment, would tend to tangle. For the double
tail, use lengths of crepe paper with no
strips tied in. Crepe-paper tails are at¬
tached by gluing, rather than tying.
In the beginning, you can save much
time and trouble by preparing several tails
of different lengths and weights and taking
them with you to the flying field.

Bridles
Flat kites also need a bridle arrangement
to control the angle at which the surface
meets the wind. The wind lifts the kite by
being diverted downward along the face of
the kite. Since the kite is not free to go with
the wind, the wind pushes the kite upwards
as it escapes past the lower edge. The
bridle controls the angle at which the kite
faces the wind.
A basic bridle consists of two legs only.
One leg is tied to the upper portion of the
centerpole, the other to the lower portion. At any given moment of flight, one leg will
be serving primarily as an extension of the flying line while the other acts as a guy¬
line to keep the proper angle. The optimum points of attachment to centerpole and
lengths of legs cannot be prescribed here. These will vary with each kite according
to materials used, tail design and length, and strength of wind. The bridling and tail
arrangements must be adjusted to the kite and the wind. One tends to compensate
the other.

A basic bridle arrangement is shown above. Bridles are attached after frame has
been decorated, as follows:

Step 1: Select points of attachment. Using nail or other round-pointed tool, punch
small holes in cover. If, in punching holes, a tear starts, apply one of the little
doughnut-shape reinforcing rings designed for pages in looseleaf notebooks.
Step 2: Cut a length of flying line about four times as long as distance AB. Insert one
end through upper hole and tie to centerpole with bowknot or clove hitch.
Step 3: Measure back along bridle (AC) a distance equal to AB and tie a small loop.
Step 4: Insert remaining end through lower hole. Holding AC straight out from kite,

32
 pull CB through hole until slack is removed. Tie to centerpole with bowknot or
clove hitch. The excess should be retained for possible later adjustments.

If the design of the frame permits attaching bridle at points where frame crosses
centerpole,, the ties will not slip and tear cover. If tied with clove hitch, ties will not
slip.
The relative length of bridle legs can be adjusted by loosening and shifting the
loop. If points of attachment must be shifted up or down the centerpole, bowknots
or clove hitcher can be easily untied. Old holes in cover should be patched with scotch
tape.

Launching Your Kite

Buildings and trees break the force of the wind, so it is best to fly your kite from an
open field. The fewer trees there are, the less chance there will be of losing your kite
in one of them.
Unroll fifty to seventy-five feet of line. If you can get a helper, have him hold the
kite as high as he can. If the kite has a tail, it should stretch away from you, on the
ground, directly behind the kite. In this position, it will help to balance the kite as
it rises into the air.
As your helper releases the kite, back up slowly until the kite begins to rise, then
gradually let out more line. If the first try at launching is unsuccessful, next time try
unrolling more, or less, string.
If you have no helper, you can still launch your kite. If there is a good wind, and
your kite is small, stand with your back to the wind, holding the kite by its lower
corner or edge. When the wind is steady, toss the kite gently upwards and step back¬
ward quickly. As the kite starts to rise, let the line out slowly, keeping it taut. If you
feed too much line too quickly, the kite will fall.
If the wind is strong enough and you have followed these instructions, but you still
have difficulty getting the kite into the air, try re-adjusting the bridle or changing the
length of the tail.

33
 i

Kite Designs and Instructions

Step 1: Construct four circles from 36" strips of bamboo.

Glue splices.
Step 2: Attach the four circles to a 46" centerpole. Be¬
gin at top, tying at centerpole and at points where
circles touch each other.
Step 3: Check and adjust balance. Glue remaining
joints and ties.
Step 4: Cover side opposite centerpole with rice paper
and decorate.
Step 5: Attach bridle. Attach single tail to lower end of
centerpole.
Pine Tree Kite

Step 1: Construct the three triangles shown in diagram.

Glue these joints now.
Step 2: Beginning at the upper end with smallest tri-
angle^ attach triangle-frames to a 40" centerpole.
Place the two lower triangle-frames so that about one-
third of the height of each overlaps the triangle-frame
above.
Step 3: Check and adjust balance. Glue remaining
joints.
Step 4: Cover side opposite centerpole with rice paper
and decorate.
Step 5: Attach bridle. Attach single tail to lower end of
centerpole.
Schoolhouse Kite

Step 1 Step 2

Step 1: Construct components shown in diagram. The center brace of the lower figure should
be tied only temporarily, using bowknots. Its position will be determined in step 2.
Step 2: Beginning at the top, with the 7" square, assemble the components to a 40" centerpole.
The positioning of each figure will be determined, in turn, by key points marked “k” on
diagram. Tie all joints of assembly. Loosen bowknots holding center brace of lower figure;
adjust to position halfway between lower edge of roof and lower crossbrace. Now, tie joints
permanently.
Step 3: Check and adjust balance of frame. Glue all joints.
Step 4: Cover side opposite centerpole with rice paper and decorate.
Step 5: Attach bridle. Attach single tail to lower end of centerpole.

36
37
Octagon Kite

Step 1 Step 2 Step 3 Alternate

Step 1: Construct two square frames as indicated.

Step 2: Place one square atop the other in the position shown. Bend top square and tuck
upper and lower corners beneath the upper and lower sides of the other square. The squares
are now interlaced into one structure. Carefully adjust points so that all triangles around the
outer edge are equal in size; then tie and glue all joints.
Step 3: Attach 40" centerpole in either of the two positions shown.
Step 4: Check and adjust balance. Glue remaining joints.
Step 5: Cover side opposite centerpole with rice paper and decorate.
Step 6: Attach bridle. Attach single tail to lower end of centerpole.

38
39
Tree Kite

Step 2

Step 1: Construct components shown in diagram.

Step 2: Beginning at the upper end, attach these components to a 36" centerpole. Overlap
the lower figure about two inches into the circle.
Step 3: Check and adjust balance. Glue all joints.
Step 4: Cover side opposite centerpole with rice paper and decorate.
Step 5: Attach bridle. Attach single tail to lower end of centerpole.

40
Butterfly Kite

Step 1: Mark the mid-point of a 48" length of bamboo. With

skin side inward, bend into loop and splice tips to one end of
an 18" bamboo strip. Allow about 6" overlap.
Step 2: Bend loop into figure shown. While bending, bamboo
will twist bringing skin side outward on the loop. Tie loop to
end of spliced section, centering loop on mark made in step 1.
If the two resulting loops are not symmetrical due to uneven
stiffness of the bamboo, scrape inside surface at stiff areas.
Step 3: Position two 24" bamboo strips as shown, crossing 5"
above top of loop. Measure and adjust for equal lengths ex¬
tending beyond crossing point. Splice to curve of loop on each
side and tie at crossing point. Tie a length of string to each
wingtip,. bend tips inward and tie strings to outer curve of
loops at points which create the desired silhouette. Tie a length
of string from centerpole to wing on each side to support the
paper representing the butterfly’s head.
Step 4: The centerpole of this kite cannot be shifted to adjust
weight. Check all dimensions to insure symmetry of area on
each side of centerpole. Glue all knots.
Step 5: Cover side opposite centerpole with rice paper and
decorate.
Step 6: Attach bridle. Attach two 15' colored crepe-paper
tails by gluing to rear surface at lower points.
note: Many additional silhouettes can be created by chang¬
ing length of wing strips or strings, or by changing points
at which tied. Simply be careful to obtain symmetry.

42
43
Redtail Hawk Kite
Step 1: Construct triangle-shaped frame. Attach centerpole.
Step 2: From top intersection, measure downward about 8" on
each triangle leg and mark. Center a 30" bamboo strip across
these marks on side opposite centerpole. Tie at the three inter¬
sections. Measure farther downward about 9" and mark. Cut
a 40" length of string. Tie to one tip of crosspiece (better to
notch bamboo slightly., so will not slip). Bend tip inward until
string will stretch horizontally to marks on frame. Make two
turns with string around this leg, centerpole, and other leg
(both turns should be upward from point of intersection).
Bend other tip of crosspiece inward until string will stretch
horizontally to it. Tie string with bowknot to notched tip. Do
not clip excess string off.
note : The wings may be given a swept-back shape by use of
strings between wingtips and lower corners of tail. (This
area not to be papered)
Step 3: Check frame for symmetry. (Distance from wingtip to
frame should be equal on each side. Curve of wingtips should
be same on each side.) Correct unequal curvature by shaving
inner surface of bamboo in any too-rigid areas. Adjust dis¬
tance from wingtip to frame by slipping string at the turns.
Re-adjust length of string, if necessary, to obtain desired curva¬
ture of wing.
Step 4: Check and adjust balance of frame. Convert bowknot
at wingtip to square knot. Clip off excess string at wingtip.
Glue all joints and string turns.
Step 5: Cover side opposite centerpole with rice paper and
decorate.
Step 6: Attach bridle. Attach two 15' colored crepe-paper tails
by gluing to the rear surface at the lower corners.

44
45
Three-Deck High Flyer

Step 1: Construct the components indicated in diagram. After

tying tips at one end, place some object between strips so that
tips at other end will cross for tying when bent.
Step 2: Center the longest component across the upper end of a
55" centerpole. Tie the upper strip tightly to the centerpole
about 2" from upper tip. Mark the center point of the lower
strip. Pull lower strip downward until distances marked “x”
on diagram are about equal. Tie lower strip tightly to center-
pole at the centering mark.
Repeat process with remaining components, overlapping
the middle component about 3" on the upper and the lower
about 2" on the middle component. Tie where curved strips
intersect, making certain that points of intersection are equi¬
distant from centerpole.
Step 3: Check and adjust balance of frame. Glue all joints.
Step 2 Step 4: Cover side opposite centerpole with rice paper, leaving
space open at overlaps (see colored illustration), and decorate.
Step 5: Attach bridle. Attach single tail to lower end of center-
pole.

46
47
Fish Kite

Step 1 Step 2 Step 3

Step 1: Construct two fish-body frames from 38" bamboo strips. Strips are to be crossed and
tied, not spliced parallel. Tie one end at tips, the other 6" from tips. Place side-by-side and
adjust any difference in dimensions.
Step 2: Attach lower 15' crosspiece. Attach temporary upper crosspiece as shown by dotted
lines (measure to space noses at distance equal to space between tails). Attach 25" middle
crosspiece at measured midpoint of outer fish-body strips. This will spread the fish-body
frames into almost symmetrical shapes; but, before tying middle brace to inner strips, measure
to insure the two bodies are spread equally. It is important that they be of equal area. Insure
that crosspieces are parallel and perpendicular to long axis of fish-bodies. Attach 22" upper
crosspiece at points where its length matches distance between outer fish-body strips. Remove
temporary brace from noses.
Step 3: Attach 40" centerpole at measured center points of crosspieces on side opposite from
fish-body frames. Tie a length of string across the tips of each fish tail.
Step 4: Check and adjust balance of frame. Glue all knots. Circles are optional and should
not affect balance if added later. Bamboo can be bent and cut to fit, beginning at center and
adding circles in both directions.
Step 5: Cover side opposite centerpole with rice paper and decorate.
Step 6: Attach bridle. Attach single tail to lower end of centerpole, or double tails of colored
crepe paper may be glued to outer corner of each fish tail.

48
Flying Lampshade

Step 1

Step 1: Construct three circles from 35" bamboo strips and three
crosses from 11" strips.
Step 2: Assemble crosses to circles and glue all joints.
Step 3: Assemble these three components to four 36" bamboo
strips as shown in diagram. Tie the end pieces in first, then
center the middle piece in the structure.
Step 4: Tie a short length of flying line to any one of the end
joints and make a loop in the free end (do not make a slip¬
knot), for later attachment to flying line. Glue all joints.
Step 5: Cover with rice paper and decorate. Remember that
the short string with loop determines the lower end of kite. Do
not make decoration upside down!
note: This kite needs no tail, nor does it need a true bridle.
The string with loop is merely for convenience. Stability
comes from the three-dimensional design.

50
51
 DATE DUE

4ft 1 7 '6S JY 11 '86

API 6 '6^ 8E24’86
AP j>0 ’69 FEB; 5 2002
M Y 7 ’89
JY 7*69
JY29 ’69
MR 2l4^
AP 9 70
MY 5 70
bESERV rE
0C 3 0 73 -
WO 77? i
U 51 76
m ? i r:
"IFTZr?
OC 2778
Wzxw
1Y 1'86
GAYLORD PRINTED IN U.S. A. ,

A
 marygroue college library
Chinese kites: how to make and t
745.54 J93