THE B&O MODELER

Volume 3, Number 1 JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2007

BUILDING A CLASS O-63D COIL STEEL GONDOLA

HO SCALE A-17 COACH

The B&O Modeler 1 January/February 2007

 A publication of the B&O Railroad Historical Society (B&ORRHS) for the purpose of disseminating B&O
modeling information. Copyright © B&ORRHS – 2005, 2006, 2007 – All Rights Reserved. May only be
reproduced for personal use. Not for sale other than by the B&ORRHS.

Editor – Bruce D. Griffin at bruce_griffin@earthlink.net

Associate Editor – Greg LaRocca at larocca3@zoominternet.net
Did You See It? Editor – Ross Pollock at info@borhs.org
Model Products News Editor – Eric Hansmann at eric@hansmanns.org
Modeling Committee Chair – Bill Barringer at barbllsn@aol.com

Manuscripts and photographs submitted for publication are considered to be gratis and no reimbursement
will be made to the author or the photographer(s) or his/her representative(s). Please contact the Editor
with comments and corrections and for submission guidelines. Statements and opinions made are those of
the authors and do not necessarily represent those of the B&ORRHS.

Cover Photos – Top, O-63d Gondola – Jim Kubanick photograph. Bottom, A-17 Coach –John
Teichmoeller photograph.

AN INVITATION TO JOIN THE B&O RAILROAD HISTORICAL SOCIETY

The Baltimore and Ohio Railroad Historical Society purpose is to make otherwise unobtainable data
is an independent non-profit educational corporation. available to the membership at reasonable cost.
The Society's purpose is to foster interest, research, Membership in the Society is a vote of support and
preservation, and the distribution of information makes all of the Society's work possible. It provides
concerning the B&O. Its membership is spread those interested in the B&O with a legitimate,
throughout the United States and numerous foreign respected voice in the railroad and historical
countries, and its scope includes all facets of the communities. By working together, B&O fans are
B&O's history. Currently the Society has over 1600 able to accomplish much more than by individual
registered members. efforts. No matter how diverse your interests or how
arcane your specialty, others share your fascination
Members regularly receive a variety of publications with America's most historic railroad. We invite your
offering news, comments, technical information, and participation. Several classes of annual memberships
in-depth coverage of the B&O and its related are available, Regular memberships are only $35.00.
companies. Since 1979, the Society has published a If you would like to join, click here to fill out our
quarterly magazine, The Sentinel, dedicated to the membership application, print a copy and mail it to:
publication of articles and news items of historical B&ORRHS
significance. Other Society publications include ATTN: Membership
monographs, calendars, equipment rosters, and P.O. Box 24068
reprints of original B&O source material. Their Baltimore, MD 21227-0568

FROM THE EDITOR

Why Write an Article, I Barely Have Enough useable with my basic DC power system. Before I go
Time to Build Models? any further let me say that the sound system adds a
Last month I saw a USRA Light Mikado in the Outlet whole new dimension to my small layout and now I
Section of the Broadway Limited Imports website for want sound for everything on the layout.
only $149.99 including shipping. It was not
decorated for the B&O, but I knew I was going to Back to my point. Why write an article? When I
modify it, so I didn’t care. Steam locomotives don’t started this project I thought I would buy the
have too many decals and the basic colors are black locomotive, add a few details and get it running. I
with graphite in a few areas. It seemed like a pretty received the locomotive quickly and went about
easy project, plus the model comes with sound that is researching the details. There were much more than I
The B&O Modeler 2 January/February 2007
expected and there were pipes and valves running within a week or two. They have original source
everywhere. Maybe since the folks in the Society material on many topics so you are getting awesome
and on the Yahoo Group now assume I will write an assistance costing you the time you put into writing
article about most of my modeling projects they are the article. Why write an article? Because it saves
most willing to share information to an extreme. I you so much time when doing the research to build
don’t mean to imply that normally our friends in the the model.
Society don’t share information, only that I feel like I
get instant replies. And every reply includes photos One person’s models we have a featured a number of
and diagrams. I think they reply quickly and share times already are those of O scale modeler Ed
extra information because they think I will take the Bommer. Ed attended the 2006 O scale National
time to write up what I have learned and share it Convention in Parsippany, NJ this summer and won
back. The folks that have done a lot of research are awards for six of the models he took with him. All
willing to share it, but would prefer to share it once were B&O or B&O related. Three (cement
and have it published for others to access. Having hopper/box car, the 4 wheel caboose and the snow
done some research for projects I now appreciate the flanger) have already appeared in B&O Modeler and
effort and time that is required. For those of you that they were at the B&O RR HS Convention at Staunton
have been on the B&O Yahoo Group or another VA in 2005. At the O Scale National, they
listserve for years understand the feeling when a respectively got first place freight, first place caboose
newcomer asks a question that has taken years to and second place maintenance of way.
research and much discussion and their first post is
something like “Please tell me how to build a M-12 The B-8aa baggage car (November/December 2005
Boxcar as it appeared on June 20, 1912, and what issue of B&O Modeler) took second place and a
color were the brake shoes.” recently rebuilt Kasiner observation car as B&O's
"Genesee River" took first place in the passenger
Again, back to my point. Are you wondering if the category. A model of SIRT 29 (class D 0-6-0
Archives contains a photo or drawing of something? camelback) took first place for steam locomotives.
If you are going to model it and write about it in the By the way, the little B&O privy from the 2005
B&O Modeler or research it further to write an article Staunton Convention went along but didn't win a
for The Sentinel, then Nick Fry and the folks who prize. It was beat out by a large, fully detailed depot
work on our Archives every month will put your and a 'loaded' maintenance barge. Congratulations to
project to the front of the list and send you info Ed, but I guess it shows you can’t win them all.

NEWS FROM THE COMPANY STORE

BY GEORGE STANT

Why should you become a member of the Baltimore profits from these sales go directly back to the
and Ohio Railroad Historical Society? Besides Society’s ongoing preservation efforts.
belonging to one of the finest railroad organizations If you want to learn more about joining the Society,
in existence, you will also get some nice discounts on make sure you read “An Invitation to Join the B&O
the multitude of items that we sell through our Railroad Historical Society” earlier in this edition of
Company Store. For example as a Society member, The B&O Modeler.
you can save up to 20% on most books over the price
we charge to the general public. And on our models, A few new products in including a Plans CD from the
you can save from between 10% and 15%, more with Archives and new series of Kadee Covered Hoppers
some of the specials that we send out to members. are being offered. The Company Store is now
The same goes for the more than 175 reprints of accepting credit cards for purchases. Check the
manuals, track plans, and other documents taken Historical Society web site for details.
from B&O historical records. And remember the

The B&O Modeler 3 January/February 2007

Edwin Kirstatter’s scale gets calibrated on his HO scale B&O layout. Note the red painted couplers, while usually it was illegal to paint
couplers, scale test cars appear to have been an exception. Edwin Kirstatter photograph.

MODEL PRODUCT NEWS

ERIC HANSMANN
HO Scale
Funaro & Camerlengo http://www.fandckits.com/ is
now producing a M-15l/m covered wagon Funaro & Camerlengo
automobile boxcar HO model.. The kit features a 10 Funaro Court
one-piece body; decals, and Tichy Train Group grab Honesdale, PA 18431
irons, detail parts, and brake parts. $39.99. (570)-224-4989
fandc@ezaccess.net

Funaro & Camerlengo photo

UPDATES AND ERRATA

Following up on John Teichmoeller’s story about modeling the Wellsville, Addison & Galeton Railroad, Michael
Shaffer sent me this link about WAG Russell Snow Plows http://www.wagplow.org/ . The link has photos and
history of the snow plows used on the WAG and restoration efforts for the plows currently located at the Rochester
& Genesee Valley Railroad Museum Industry in New York.

The B&O Modeler 4 January/February 2007

 BUILDING A CLASS O-63D COIL STEEL GONDOLA IN HO SCALE
BY JIM KUBANICK
PHOTOS BY AUTHOR UNLESS OTHERWISE SPECIFIED.

Background very closely in rib, side panel, and rivet pattern and
My initial interest in coil gondolas was sparked many the project began to look very do-able.
years ago when I observed cars of the B&O, NKP
and PRR operating in the Pittsburgh, PA and Lorain, As I do not have a lot of time or resources for in-
OH areas. It had been my intent to build at least one depth research, I contacted my good friend Greg
model of one of these distinctive gondolas but a lack LaRocca for assistance on this aspect of the project
of good photos and supporting technical information and he responded splendidly with a packet of
kept the project from progressing much beyond the information which started the project rolling in a
dream stage. At some point, I did come across photos serious fashion.
and video shots of B&O and NKP versions but there
was not a good model available that was close The Prototype
enough to kitbash into one of these. I had picked up a The B&O converted 224 class O-63 gondolas, built
Con-Cor coil gondola kit at a flea market at one time, in 1951, into class O-63d coil gondolas in 1956,
but when the time came about to get serious about numbers 351000-3511123, and, in 1957, numbers
this project, this car was also judged to be too far off 351124-351223, by fitting them with Republic
to fit my needs. It did, however, serve as the basis for corrugated coil hoods and appropriate coil cradles
a fairly accurate model of a PRR G33e mill gondola. and related apparatus. Additionally, B&O rostered
coil gondolas numbers 351499, 355000-355080 and
Things changed with the recent release by Sunshine 451040-451139 and gondolas numbered 351500-
Models of a series of Bethlehem fixed and drop end 351524 which were fitted with 3-piece roofs. See
gondolas. Among these releases was the B&O O-59a Table 1 for a listing of steel service gondolas derived
(Sunshine kit # 70.4). In comparing photos of the O- from class O-63 and later class gondolas. I have no
59a and the O-63 series, I found that they matched information on how long any of these cars remained
in service in the configurations listed.

The B&O Modeler 5 January/February 2007

O-63d #351032 at Willard, Ohio on November 22, 1964. Photograph by Eileen Wolford Barnard, B&ORRHS Collection

O-63d #351171 at Willard, Ohio on November 22, 1964. Photograph by Eileen Wolford Barnard, B&ORRHS Collection

Dubois Car Shop, Dubois, Pennsylvania. Unknown photographer, B&ORRHS Collection.

B&O Class O-63d Equipment Diagram, Revision B, July 21, 2959.

The B&O Modeler 6 January/February 2007

 Table 1: Survey of B&O Special Steel Service Gondolas, 1931 Through 1964
Class Use Road No. Weight Build Built By Conversion Total Notes
Date Details No. Cars
O-41a Tin Plate 360000- 50,700 1931 B&O From O-41 At 2 Removable roof, converted to
360001 Mt. Clare, 1936 O-41 3350317, 350737 in 1942
O-41b Pipe 361000 50,600 1931 B&O From O-41 At 1 Converted back to O-41 in 1942
Mt. Clare, 1937
O-63 n/a 264381 62,000 1951 Beth. Stl. Co. Mt. Clare, 1953 1 Perhaps experimental roof
O-63d Coiled 351000- 67,200 1956 Beth. Stl. Co. From O-63 at 124 Corrugated steel covers
Steel 351123 Dubois
O-63d Coiled 351124- 68,200 1957 Beth. Stl. Co. From O-63 at 100 Corrugated steel covers
Steel 351223 Dubois
O-63e Bar Steel 351500- 78,200 1957 Beth. Stl. Co. From O-63 at 25 3 pc. roof, 4 adj bulkheads
351524 Dubois
O-63f Coiled 351499 66,000 1957 Beth. Stl. Co. From O-63 in 1 Originally classed O-63d
Steel 1957
O-65b Coiled 355000- N/A 1959 Beth. Stl. Co. N/A 140 Corrugated steel covers
Steel 355139 & B&O
O-65c Bar Steel 355300- 74,600 1957 Beth. Stl. Co. N/A 50 3 pc. roof, 3 adj. bulkheads
355349 & B&O
O-65d Tin Plate 355450- 65,700 1957 Beth. Stl. Co. N/A 10 3 piece roof
355459 & B&O
O-65e Bar Steel 355350- 77,800 1957- Beth. Stl. Co. From O-65 in 75 3 pc. roof, 3 adj. bulkheads
355424 1960 & B&O 1963-64
O-65f Tin Plate 355460- 69,100 1957- Beth. Stl. Co. From 0-65 in 20 3 pc. removable roof
355479 1960 & B&O 1963
O-67a Coiled 451040- 81,700 1959 Beth. Stl. Co. New 100 Corrugated steel covers
Steel 451139 & B&O
O-67b Bar Steel 451140- 74,500 1959 Beth. Stl. Co. New 50 3 pc. roof, 4 adj. bulkheads
451189 & B&O
O-67c Tin Plate 451190- 65,300 1959 Beth. Stl. Co. New 10 3 piece roof
451199 & B&O
O-67d Pipe 451000- N/A 1959 Beth. Stl. Co. 1964 14 Bulkheads added for pipe
451039 & B&O
O-90a Bar Steel 362000- 85,000 1964 Beth. Stl. Co. Built new 200 3 pc. roof, 3 adj. bulkheads
362199 & B&O

The O-63d’s list a length of 52’6” over the end sills The B&O was the largest buyer of the Bethlehem
and an extreme width of 10’ 4-1/8”. Strangely, the gondola design. In addition to the O-63, it also
inside length is also listed at 52’6”, so there is rostered 4000 O-59 and O-59a’s. Refer to the
obviously an error in the diagram sheet. The cars Sunshine kit’s history sheet for information on this
carry two coil covers 22’ long by 6’ 8-1/8” wide. class.
Trucks are listed as B&O Type 51-x.

The B&O Modeler 7 January/February 2007

The Model
Those who prefer to model the O-59a should proceed I next separated and removed all flash from the body,
according to the Sunshine kit instructions. Those who floor and underframe castings. Take particular care in
wish to build the O-63 or O-63d should read on. fitting the floor and underframe inside the body
The major modifications I made to the original kit casting. A good fit here is crucial to the finished
were the substitution of a fixed end and related brake appearance of the car. I usually find that the floor
wheel assembly for the kit-supplied end, the addition components in resin kits are slightly oversize and
of two tie-down clips to each side panel, addition of excess material must be removed to prevent warping
stiffeners to the top side chord, and elimination of the of the sides of the car. Spend extra time here to get a
Duryea underframe details. The coil covers are proper fit! It will be necessary to assemble the body
scratch built from styrene stock. and underframe before modifying the car ends, as this
will reinforce the assembly so that it can better
There is some question as to whether these cars were withstand the stresses of the process.
equipped with steel or wood floors. My kit came with
a steel floor and I elected to build the car that way. Before installing the underframe, drill the kingpin
(C&O/B&O 1970 diagram confirms O-63d 1/4" plate holes. Start the hole with a #61 drill then enlarge the
steel floor, ed) Another unresolved question is that of hole to #50 size to accept a #2 screw. The urethane
the details relating to the coil cover guides. I elected resin will accept tapping operations very well, but I
to roughly follow the outline presented on the elected to use a #2 x ¼” sheet metal screw rather than
diagram sheet as this detail is somewhat hidden by a machine screw. Also, in preparation for mounting
the car sides and the cover assembly. I did not Kadee coupler boxes, remove the center sill
include underbody detail as my roster is built with the extension and lengthwise ribs beyond the bolsters
intent to operate and my cars are normally viewed toward the car end. I used an Xacto saw blade to start
from the top or side. I, therefore, skimp on underbody the process and finished with a #4 chisel blade. The
details if they cannot be seen in a side view. coupler pad was then sanded to a smooth surface.
The coupler box will be installed later.
Basic Body Construction
Beyond these changes, I followed the kit instructions The model comes with internal stake pockets molded
in building the basic carbody. I usually start a resin to the inside of the car. I have no information as to
kit by washing the kit components in warm soapy whether the O-63 class was so equipped and, if so,
water prior to any deflashing or part separation work. whether they were retained in the O-63d conversion.
This is to remove any residual mold release agents I have some doubt that these cars had internal stake
left from the molding process. I use liquid dish pockets but lacking solid data, I elected to retain this
washing detergent and a soft toothbrush. This detail. Further, I did not want to chance damaging the
operation is followed by a rinse with fresh water, surrounding rivet detail in the removal process. The
then a drying period on a towel. This preparation interior detail on these kits is very nicely done.
process is necessary to insure adequate paint
adhesion and flow-out when finishing the model. It is Next, cement the underframe in place by roughly
especially important if you plan to use a water based fitting it into the carbody. You should have a good
paint as a basecoat. friction fit that does not force the car sides into a
bow. Inspect the carbody for any deformities and, if
any are present, remove additional material from the
underframe where necessary. Adjust the alignment of
the underframe by holding the assembly up to a
bright light and observing the floor line through the
translucency of the car sides. Begin the gluing
process at the bolsters after assuring the bolster ends
align with the bottom of the car sides. Use a CA
adhesive to just tack the bolsters in place, then move
to the center of the car and align and tack the
assembly there using the shadow technique to assure
the underframe is even with the rivet line on the
exterior of the sides.

The B&O Modeler 8 January/February 2007

The underframe should fit below the stake brackets ends of the car sides. We will make new rivet strips
cast into the interior car sides. Once the carbody and later.
underframe are satisfactorily aligned, run CA cement
along all joints to assure a tight assembly. Be sure to Treat the B end in a similar manner after first
bond the ends of the cross bearers to the sides as they removing the handbrake housing bracket with a # 11
are fragile and could easily be broken. knife blade.

The floor should be fitted similarly inside the I used a Detail Associates # 6221 gondola end as the
carbody but not glued in place at this time as we will replacement end as it has the proper rib pattern while
first modify the ends and fit the coupler boxes. maintaining the inside profile. However, this part is
designed for a tall GS-type gondola and the
Next, we will begin the required modifications to the uppermost major rib must be removed to give us the
carbody. Proceed by taping a sheet of 100 grit three rib pattern we need. Use a fine-toothed Zona
sandpaper to your workbench or other flat surface. Be saw to shorten the end. Make this cut just even with
sure that the side-to-underframe joint is solid. If not, the bottom of the top major rib. File the inside of the
run additional ACC into the joint and allow it to set. end so as to assure a tight, flat fit around the
Now stand the car body on end with the A end flat perimeter of the floor and sides and to remove any
against the sandpaper. Carefully keep the carbody burrs remaining from the saw cut. Note that there is a
perpendicular to the sandpaper while sanding in a small inner ridge across the bottom of the end that
circular motion and work slowly as the sandpaper interferes with the alignment and this must also be
will cut through the resin rather quickly. Sand the end removed. Also file the bottom of the Detail
until the extreme end side rib is removed. This Associates end just below the line of rivets so that
operation will also remove the end sill and cast you have a straight bottom edge. Finally, sand the
temporary end. Take your time here to be sure that ends slightly so that they match the width of the
you maintain the car body in a vertical position so outside of the carbody. Sand a radius into the outside
that only the rib is removed from the side and that the of the end casting so that the end seam will better
floor is flush with the sides. There are bolt heads cast blend into the sides of the car. Also, trim the height
on the sides for mounting the side grab irons and the of the ends so that, when fitted in place, the top will
objectives are to remove all of the rib without align with the bottom of the top chord on the sides.
touching this detail and to maintain the squareness of We will modify the ends further after they are
the end. Stop the sanding process as you reach the affixed.
bolt heads but remove the vertical rivet row at the

The B&O Modeler 9 January/February 2007

Place the ends by tacking them in place with kingpin screw at this time to be sure that it will not
PlioBond cement. Align the line of rivets across the penetrate into the floor casting.
bottom of the end casting so that they are in line with
the rivet row at the bottom of the car sides. The
PlioBond has a slow set time which will allow a few
minutes to get these parts aligned properly. Once the
parts are aligned, complete the glue joint with an
application of ACC cement.

It is problematic to mount couplers to a gondola car

possessing a thin profile floor unless you settle for a
glue joint. As my car will be used in operations, I felt
it was necessary to use a secure screw mount and live
with the screw end visible flush with the car floor. In
this case, it will be less visible once the coil cradle
and covers are in place. Begin, then, by gluing the top
half of a Kadee # 5 coupler box to the centerline of
the floor after removing the mounting ears. Next,
drill # 53 through the center mounting hole, then tap
for a 1-72 screw. I used a 1-72 x1/4” brass flat head Trim the inner floor casting so that it will fit snugly
screw to secure the top half of the Kadee box, again inside the body. Test fit, but do not glue in place, just
removing the mounting ears. Trim the screw to length yet.
so that it is flush with the interior car floor.
Body Detailing
It will be necessary to grind approximately one We are now finished with the body modifications and
thread from the end of the screw to keep the screw tip can begin to detail the carbody. Begin by gluing a
even with the surface of the floor. Adjust this process piece of .015” x .080” Evergreen styrene strip to the
accordingly if you are using a different coupler box. edge of the sides at each corner below the end
casting. This simulates the end gusset plate and will
The bolster is deep enough to accept a short # 2 sheet be the mounting plate for one end of each of the
metal or machine screw as the kingpin. Test fit the lower end grabs. Cut the strip a little longer than
needed to provide a handle when cementing the strip
in place. Mount the outer edge flush with the car side

The B&O Modeler 10 January/February 2007

and, once the CA has set, cut the length to match the Remove the retainer valve from the car side with a
depth of the car side. sharp chisel blade and sand the remaining surface
smooth.
There is an angle riveted to each exterior corner of
the car. To represent this, make a rivet strip by I used a 39’ length of Evergreen .060” angle to
running a pounce wheel very close to the edge of a represent the top chord stiffeners. These were
sheet of .005” Evergreen styrene. Once the row of centered on each chord and fastened with CA.
rivets is formed, run a #11 blade along the inside of
the rivet row, so that the rivet impressions are To model the hold down clips, first mark a pencil line
centered on the resulting strip. I ended up with a rivet across the car side 8” below the top chord, measured
strip .040” wide by about 6” long. Cut this strip to at the first side panel from each end. I made the clips
match the height of the sides below the top chord and using Grandt Line and Plastruct .010” styrene rod
then glue in place at the extreme edge of the car side. following the fabrication technique outlined by Jack
Lay another strip behind this one on the car end so as Consoli in the December 2004 issue of the Keystone
to form a reinforcing angle at the exterior corner of Modeler.(http://www.prrths.com/Keystone%20Model
the car. Do this for each exterior corner of the car and er/Keystone_Modeler.htm) I used a piece of .094” x
use CA adhesive to make the bond. Finish the angle 0.30” brass bar rod stock as the winding tool. Tape
by trimming it even with the bottom of the car side one end of the plastic rod to the brass rod, then
and end gusset. tightly wind the rod around the brass bar to form a
spring-like winding.

Once the winding is complete, tape the opposite end

of the rod to the bar. The rod will not wrap flatly To make the individual clips. I used a razor blade to
against the rod due to the memory inherent in the guillotine the coil at the midpoint, and lengthwise, of
styrene. To get a tight fit against all sides of the bar, I both of the .094” sides. You could scribe a line at the
passed a heat gun across each side of the winding center line of each of these sides of the bar to use as a
until the stress was relieved from the rod and it laid guide. This results in two small square horseshoes of
flat against all sides of the bar. This will shape the styrene rod per coil that will be used to simulate the
clips to the square contour we need. I seemed to get hold down clips. One “spring” wrapping will yield
tighter windings with sharper corners from the many clips, so you can pick the best from the pile to
Grandt Line rod, however. use for this project.

The B&O Modeler 11 January/February 2007

There are two clips per side panel except for the panels closest to the car ends, where one clip was eliminated at the
grab iron location. I placed a dot of CA at the pencil line approximately 4” to either side of each side rib and, while
the CA is wet, I used a small wood dowel with wetted end to pick up and place the individual clips

Pick up the horseshoe-shaped clip at the open end with the closed end overhanging the edge of the dowel and slide
the top of the clip into the dot of CA on the car side. Once set, dab a little CA on the legs of each clip to affix them
firmly to the car.

The B&O Modeler 12 January/February 2007

Glue a strip of .010” x .030” Evergreen styrene across the top of the Detail Associates end castings to form the end
chord. Align the back of the strip with the inside of the end casting. Now, cut two more pieces of .010” x .030” strip
approximately .060” shorter that than those above and place them centered on the end chord. The top of the end
chord should now align with the top of the side chord with a little notch at each extreme corner of the car. The
corner chord tie plate will mount in this notch.

The B&O Modeler 13 January/February 2007

Make the corner tie plate from .010” x .030” strip cut The right leg of the end grabs mount on a Styrene
slightly longer than needed to fill the notch. Cement strip to form sort of a half-ladder. To duplicate this,
the strip into the notch using CA. Once the glue has cut a strip of .015” x .030” to a length of 2’6” for
set, trim the excess from the strip and sand a radius each end. Mount this directly under the end top chord
into the extreme corner edge to complete the corner and parallel to the left edge of the end. Space the strip
chord tie plate. so that the legs of an 18” grab iron will be centered
on the strip and the riveted corner angle placed
I tacked the floor casting into the carbody by earlier. I used Testor’s plastic cement so that I would
randomly applying several small dots of Pliobond have some time to properly align the strips on the 18”
cement to the floor and then pressing the casting in centers.
place. You could place a weight between the two
floor sections but I elected to pack lead wool between Once these strips have set, we can mount the end
the cross members on the underbody casting. The grabs, using the wire parts supplied with the kit. The
fishbelly sides will hide this and the lack of top two grabs are straight, the third grab, from the
underbody detail. You could also place the car weight top, is a drop grab and the bottom grab is a
under the coil covers but I prefer to keep the center of combination, with a straight leg to the outside of the
gravity as low as possible. My preference is to weight car and a drop leg to the center of the car. This grab
my freight cars to approximately 100 grams, is formed from a length of .012” wire. The lower
regardless of length. I feel that today’s free rolling right grab is a mirror image of this grab. The outside
trucks and improved wheelsets allow us to run cars leg of these grabs mount on the outside bottom end
lighter than the NMRA RP guidelines. I would rather gusset and both should be 18” in length. The rungs
trade the extra weight for a few more cars in the train. should be 14” apart once the grabs are set. The top
grab should nestle close to the underside of the top
To define the “B” end, mount a retainer valve casting chord. The right upper end grab is a straight 18” grab
(I used a Tichy part) 22” from the left edge of one mounted on the centerline of the center dreadnaught
end of the car and centered on the top rib. rib so that one leg mounts on the corner rivet strip.
Use the photos as a guide.

You can use the grab boltheads cast on the side as a placement guide except for the lower right side grab which will
be a drop grab. Its legs will mount on the floor rivet line cast along the car side. Remove the cast bolt heads for
this grab and also those for the upper left side grab. The upper grab iron location for the left side will be changed. It
will be placed directly under the top chord as on the right side of car. The second (bottom) left side grab will be
mounted in the location of the cast lower grab boltheads. Drill #79 for all grab holes and lock in place with a drop
of CA. Flush cut any legs that protrude through the inside of the car ends.

Next, drill #77 for inserting Grandt #5100 NBW castings. The NBW’s on the ends should be placed directly above
the wire grabs except for the top rung of the half-ladder. The bolts go below this grab. On the sides, the upper left
The B&O Modeler 14 January/February 2007
and right wire grabs have the bolts in the below position, while the lower (drop) grab on the right side will have the
bolt heads in the upper position. Follow the photos for the correct location of all of this grab iron work.

On the “B” end, drill a #79 hole below the retainer cement placed on the mounting shaft. These eye bolts
valve outlet and run a piece of .010” straight wire will be used to mount the outer ends of the cut levers.
from this hole to the bottom of the car end. Bend the
wire 90° at the hole below the retainer and against the I have no information on the correct brake wheel and
car floor and tack the ends of the wire in place with housing to use on the O-63d, so I used the Bowser
CA. brake wheel housing casting supplied in the kit. This
was mounted to the B end with solvent cement after
cutting off the mounting lug. . A Kadee #2033
Universal brake wheel was mounted to the housing
after reaming out the mounting hole with a # 55 drill.
Install a Tichy bell crank directly below the chain and
connect the brake chain and crank with a short piece
of .012” wire, fastened with CA.

On the left hand bottom end gussets, drill #74

midway and centered below the bottom grab and the
bottom of the gusset. Place a Tichy #3037 eye bolt
into this hole and secure with a drop of Pliobond

The B&O Modeler 15 January/February 2007

 bottom sill to the side of the first and last posts that
Next mount the trucks. The diagram sheet indicates face the car end. Run the ends of the “U” into these
that 51-X trucks were used under these cars. I do not holes and fix with CA. Place a small tack board 3”
have information as to what HO trucks, if any, above each left hand towing staple and 2” to the left
represent this prototype. Also, the car has rather deep of the first side rib on the left of the car side.. I used a
side sills, so all of my reference photos show the small tack board, cut in half, that was left over from
trucks in deep shadow. All I can tell is that some some long-forgotten plastic boxcar kit project,
form of a “Bettendorf” truck was used. I chose to use however a 4”L x 8”H x 2” strip of styrene, affixed
a pair of Stewart trucks with metal wheelsets with CA, will do.
installed. As the trucks are very close to the floor, I
found it necessary to shave a bit off the end cross This finishes the gondola and we can now move to
bearers in order to clear the wheelsets as the car the coil cover and cradle assemblies.
rounds a curve.
Coil Covers
Detail Associates #SS6415 straight side-mount Begin building the two coil covers by cutting four
stirrups match those on the prototype. Drill #76 and pieces of Evergreen #2030 V-Groove siding, .020”
space the holes per the Detail Associates template to thick x .030” grooves, 22’ long by 4’6” high. These
mount these below the side grab irons. Fix in place will be the side pieces and should be cut with the
with CA. grooves running vertically. Be sure your cuts are
square and true. Next cut four end pieces 4’6”high by
To the right of the coupler box, mount the air hoses 6’3” wide but this time cut with the grooves running
and brackets included with the Sunshine kit. I chose horizontally. Again, check for square.
to delete this detail as these are extremely vulnerable
to damage during regular operations. Next build the basic box by joining a side and end.
Place the edge of the end against the inside edge of
To complete the car body, fabricate cut levers from the side. Square the assembly and secure with solvent
.016” wire. Drill a #73 hole at the top right of the cement. Use solvent cement for the entire coil cover
coupler box cover as an anchor point for the lever. assembly unless noted otherwise. Make four of these
Thread the lever through the Tichy eye bolts we end/side assemblies and, once the cement has set,
mounted earlier, then bend the end of the lever 90° glue two pairs together to make two oblong boxes.
upward and trim so as to just fit into the coupler box. From a sheet of Evergreen #9040, .040” plain sheet
Fix the cut lever in place at this end with a small drop styrene, cut two rectangles 21’3” x 6’0”, or to fit
of Pliobond. inside the boxes just fabricated. Glue flush with the
inside edges to form the top of the boxes. Reinforce
Fabricate the four towing staples from .010” brass the length of the inside of the sides, at the bottom,
wire by wrapping the wire around a drill bit or brass with strips of Evergreen #180, .080” square stock.
rodding to form a “U”. Drill a #79 or #80 hole next to Use scraps of .040” to reinforce the ends as necessary
the insides of the first and third rivets along the to keep square.

The B&O Modeler 16 January/February 2007

Finally, glue a strip of Evergreen #8206, 2” x 6” strip shapes. These will be the bulkheads used to form the
across the top edge of each end and cut the ends to be upper half of the coil cover boxes.
flush with the sides of the boxes. This completes the
basic bottom box for each of the coil covers. Begin fabrication of the upper boxes by gluing one
trapezoidal bulkhead behind each of the 2”6” pieces
The top is essentially a trapezoidal box centered atop attached earlier across the tops of the ends. Be sure
the rectangular bottom box. Begin by carefully laying these are in a vertical position. Now, fabricate a
out a trapezoid from Evergreen #9020 plain .020” rectangular piece of v-groove siding to span between
sheet. Lay out the base line 6’10” long along an edge each of the end bulkheads. The edges will be glued
of the sheet and mark the end points. Find the center atop the outside edges of the end bulkheads and the
line, 3’5” from each end and draw a center line 90º base will lie along the top edge of the bottom coil
from the base line. Find 3’7” along the center line cover box. Cut this piece so that the grooves will
above the base and draw a line from this mark to each align with the grooves in the bottom box. Sand the
end mark of the base line to form a triangle. Measure bottom edge to a 45º angle and cut the top edge to be
23” up from the base line along the center line. flush with the top of the slope of the trapezoidal
Through this mark, draw a line parallel to (23” bulkheads. When satisfied with the fit, glue in place
above) the base line and through the sides of the to the bulkheads and the top edge of the bottom box
triangle to form the basic trapezoid we will use. minimizing the horizontal seam as much as possible.
Carefully cut the trapezoid from the sheet and use it All horizontal edges should be parallel.
as a template to make eleven additional identical

The B&O Modeler 17 January/February 2007

The B&O Modeler 18 January/February 2007
Next, make four equidistant marks across the sloping bend 4” above the side seam of the cover. These
side sheet. They should end up about 4’ 3” apart. It is should be centered on cover segments 2 and 4. The
important to make sure they are spaced equally two remaining brackets are centered on the ends of
across this sheet. On the opposite (inside) of the the cover with the joint 2” above the top of the 2” x
sheet, place a trapezoidal bulkhead behind each mark 6” shelf.
and glue to the top of the bottom box and the slope
sheet. A brace is placed behind each bracket. This is made
from a short length of .010” x .060” styrene strip.
Lay out the opposite side sheets as per above and One end of the brace mounts just above the bend in
place. Assure that all glue joints are free of gaps. File the side mounted stacking bracket and the other end
and sand the end bulkheads so as to remove all traces is attached to the upper coil cover. This brace should
of joints. Fill with body putty, if necessary. Be sure to be horizontal. I found it easier to eye-ball the length
maintain the four equidistant marks along the slope of the brace, as the angle of each bracket tends to
sheet. vary slightly. It is also helpful to place a small block
of .010” x .060” strip against the side of the cover to
Turn the coil covers upside down and draw them serve as a support for one end of the brace. Use
across a piece of sandpaper affixed to a flat surface. Testor’s Cement for Plastics for this brace as the
Sand until the bulkheads and top edges of the slope slower set-time will allow more time to position this
sheets are perfectly flat and will support the coil small piece
cover top at all mating joints.

Lay out the tops of the covers on a piece of .020”

thick v-groove sheet by using the remaining opening
of the covers as a dimensional guide. The bottoms of
the top sheets should match the outer perimeter of the
slope sheet/end bulkhead and the v-grooves should
run as those on the sides. Cement in place over the
bulkheads and side sheets, again assuring that no
gaps are present around the perimeter. Once the
cement has thoroughly set, sand the ends so that no
gaps show. Carefully file and/or sand the edges of the
top sheets to match the angle of the slope sheets,
again avoiding gaps in the seam.

My photos show what appear to be raised seams

along the hoods, dividing them into five sections. Use
the equidistant marks we placed earlier and cement a
strip of 1” x 2” styrene at each mark. Run this strip
from the bottom of the cover up, over the slope
sheets, top and down the opposite side. Repeat for the
other seams on each coil cover to divide the covers On the end brackets, one end of the brace merely
into five equal length segments. attaches to the end bulkhead, while the opposite end
attaches to the bracket.
Next, build the nesting brackets from Evergreen
.060” channel. These are centered on the cover ends My reference photos show a small protrusion at the
and centered on cover segments 2 and 4 at the seam top of the end bulkheads. I simulated this with a strip
line between the side and slope sheets. To make each of 2” x 4” styrene cut to a 12” length. Mount these
bracket, lay the channel on its flat side, make marks pieces centered horizontally and even with the top of
at 12” and 24” along the channel. At the 12” mark, the end bulkhead.
cut a narrow V-shaped notch into the channel flanges.
Bend the channel at this point up to an approximate
30º angle and glue to hold this angle. Make six
brackets for each coil cover. Place these on the cover
with flat side of the channel against the hood and the

The B&O Modeler 19 January/February 2007

 Mount four 18” drop grabs on one side of each cover.
These are centered on the center coil cover segment
and three are spaced 18” apart on the side sheet,
beginning 2” below the seam. The remaining grab
mounts on the slope sheet 18” above the seam. Use
CA to affix the grabs, then drill a hole above each leg
and place an NBW casting.

The lifting bracket is centered on each coil cover and back 3” from the end at the joint with the .010” x
is shaped something like a coffee table with sloped .080”.
legs. Begin building one by taking two 3’ lengths of
.010” x .030” styrene strip and laying them on a flat Begin forming the “table” by joining another strip of
surface spaced 2’ 2” apart and parallel to each other. .010” x .080” x 2’6” along the length of the first
Connect one end of each with a strip of .010” x .080” .010” x .080”, then joining another U-assembly to the
x 2’6” to form a square U-shaped piece. The .010” x opposite edge to form the table-shaped bracket. Use
.030”s should lay atop the ends of the .010” x .080” Testor’s Cement for Plastics for these joints and,
to form the joint. Glue in place. Trim the legs to before the assembly sets, stand the “table” on edge
equal lengths of 3’. Make a total of four of these and spread the legs out to an angle of approximately
assemblies. Place a strip of .010” x .020” strip atop 135º from the level top. This is so the “table” will
the inside edge of each .010” x .030” to form a 90º straddle the slope sheets on the cover. Make two such
angle. Once set, cut each of these .010” x .120” webs assemblies. Before the glue hardens completely, fit

The B&O Modeler 20 January/February 2007

the bracket over the top center of the coil cover so notches are in alignment across the bracket. This
that two legs are centered about the top grab iron and completes the construction of the coil covers.
that all legs lay flat on the slope sheets. Once all is in
alignment, the flat top of the bracket should be Coil/Coil Cover Cradle
parallel with the top of the cover and riding 18” The hood and coil cradle(s) are somewhat of a
above it. Glue in place once you are satisfied with the mystery. The only photo I have of this assembly is
final alignment. too dark to be of much value. It does seem to show a
somewhat different assembly than is shown on the
equipment diagram sheet which shows the covers
mounting in a fixed position. However, I have a
broadside photo of two cars which clearly show the
covers spaced randomly along the length of the cars.
So, it would appear that some “imagineering” must
be done here by combining information from both
sources.

The diagram sheet shows the major component of the

cover cradle to be a pair of 12” x 12” timbers running
the length of the car. Use two strips of .125” x .125”
styrene strip to simulate these timbers. Cut them to
length to fit the inside length of the car. Space the
outside edges 6’ 6” apart and tie them together with
4” x 4” strips placed at the center and ends of the
timbers. Next, use .100” x .100” styrene strip to
fabricate braces for the sloping cradle sides. Begin by
Once all glue joints are set, sand the top of each sanding a 60º angle bevel on one side of the strip so
bracket to hide all joints. Use body filler to fill any that the slope runs along the length of the strip and
gaps. Be sure all leg angles terminate below the top leaves a .020” flat at the top of the bevel. Cut the
of the brackets. Stand the coil cover upside-down strip .125” below the bottom edge of the bevel to
with the top of the bracket resting on a hard, flat form the brace. Make twelve of these braces and
surface. At the center of each bracket side panel, space them equally along the length of the timbers,
using a small round file, file a semi-circular notch to fastening them with the .125” face against the timber
simulate the notch for the lifting bar. Be sure the and the bevel facing to the inside of the car. This
forms the basic shape of the cradle.

The B&O Modeler 21 January/February 2007

To finish the cradle glue a .010” x .188” styrene strip This completes the assembly of the car and it is now
along the slops of the braces. Trim the length of this ready for the finishing processes.
strip to fall slightly short of the ends of the timbers.
Finishing
The entire car is painted black and you may finish the
model with the paint of your choice. If using a water-
based paint, however, be sure to wash the car with
mild soapy water or Isopropyl alcohol to remove any
residual surface contamination from the molding and
assembly processes. I painted the entire car and coil
cover assemblies with Scalecoat II Loco Black. I then
allowed this to dry for a week before beginning decal
work.

The decals were applied directly to the Scalecoat,

then sealed with a coat of Floquil Crystal-Cote. Once
this was dry, a coat of Testor’s Dullcote was applied.
The decals were a mix of decals from the Sunshine
O-59a kit and left-overs from a number of Champ
sets and decals from other resin kits. The chalk mark
decals are from Sunshine. Some of the lettering is
still incomplete as I could not find proper alphabet
letters to spell out the word “insulated” on the coil
The cradle may now be placed inside the car. Test fit cover ends.
the coil covers. They should fit within the slope
sheets and rest flat on the timbers. I found that the I weathered the car by lightly airbrushing Floquil
cradle fits snugly within the carbody, so I did not Grimy Black and Grime over the car and followed
glue it in place. However, it may be glued with this by detail weathering with chalks and a Conte’
several dots of Pliobond, if necessary. crayon. Finally a small square of paper was fastened
to the tack boards with rubber cement.

The B&O Modeler 22 January/February 2007

Conclusion
It is my hope that this article will spur interest in these distinctive cars and that additional information on them will
surface as well. They were a transitional development that, fortunately for the modeler, fits very well into the
steam-to-diesel era. They did not last very long but they quickly led to the development of more sophisticated coil-
carrying cars. It is now possible to build a reasonable model of these cars rather than having to settle for stand-in
versions or resorting to a very serious scratch-building project.

Parts List
Sunshine Models, Box 4997, Springfield MO 65808- #108 .010” x .188” Strip
4997 (Note: Mail order only, usually requires long #175 .100” x .100” Strip
lead time, but supplier is very reliable.) #180 .080” X .080” Strip
Kit # 70.4 B&O O-59a 52’ Bethlehem #186 .125” x .125” Strip
Gondola #261 .060” Channel
E.8 Chalk mark decals for Northeastern roads #291 .060” Angle
E.6 Chalk mark decals for Southeastern roads #2030 V-Groove siding .020” x .030” groove
#8206 HO 2” x 6” Strip
Detail Associates #8404 HO 4” x 4” Strip
#6221 G.S. Gondola Ends, dreadnaught #9020 .020” Plain sheet
#2522 Flat brass bar, .010” x .018 # 9040 .040” Plain sheet

Grandt Line Kadee

#5100 NBW castings #58 Couplers
# 2033 Universal brake wheel
Plastruct
#90850 .010” Styrene rod Stewart (Bowser)
“Bettendorf” Trucks
Tichy
#3015 18” Drop grabs Miscellaneous
#3037 Eye bolts CA Cement
Pliobond or Goo cement
Evergreen MEK or other solvent cement
#100 .010” X .020” Strip Material for car weight
#103 .010” x .060” Strip

References
Sunshine Models: Prototype reference sheet #70A Bethlehem Design Fixed End 52’6” Gondolas.

Jack Consoli: Keystone Modeler, issue#17, December, 1994. PRR Gondolas – Part 12, the G31c and e.

5403, January 1981, pg. 7 article: B&O Liked 52’, 13-Post Gondola Design

B&O 1969 Sales Manual: Coil Steel Gondola.

Stephan R. Heath: Scale Coupler, July/August 1989, Pg. 14: B&O Coil Gondola

B&O Equipment Diagrams for Classes O-59, O-59a, O-63d and O-63e.

Photo References: Howard Ameling photos of B&O O-63d’s 351086 and 351159.

Electric Railroader’s Association photo CD: Pennsylvania Trolleys Part 2. Background views of cars 451086,
451105 and partial view of additional car.

Acknowledgements
Gregory M. LaRocca, Howard Ameling, and Jim Mischke

The B&O Modeler 23 January/February 2007

O-63d #351159 at South Webster, Ohio on August 9, 1959. Photograph by Howard Ameling.

O-63d #351086 at South Webster, Ohio on August 9, 1959. Photograph by Howard Ameling.

The B&O Modeler 24 January/February 2007

 HO SCALE A-17 COACH
BY BRUCE ELLIOTT
PHOTOS BY AUTHOR UNLESS OTHERWISE SPECIFIED.

John Teichmoeller photograph.

Prototype
One day, while looking through old B&O whether these cars were still in revenue during the
photographs that my father had taken back in the mid time frame that I model, of 1950 – 1955. By gosh,
60’s, I ran across photographs of some work train they were! But this car sure looked short, even for a
cars on the siding at Rockville, MD. My particular coach. It turned out that this coach was the same
passion is passenger cars, and a unique passenger car length as the Class-Ae coach that was brought out by
subject was part of the work train. This particular car Bethlehem Car Works several years ago. The wheels
had something quite unique under it, and that was 4 started to turn, and I saw a new coach for my layout.
wheel cast steel trucks. Further investigation with Last winter Harry Meem and I were talking about old
drawings of steel passenger cars revealed that this kits that we had, that probably would not get built.
was a former class A-17 coach, one of two classes Since Intermountain now offered the Ae coach as a
with 4-wheel trucks and all steel heavyweight built-up, Harry confessed that his prospects of
construction. Only class A-15 coaches shared this building the kit were slim, and that a reasonable offer
unique combination. My next sense of curiosity was could bring the kit to Timonium in February.

Equipment Diagram, Bill Barringer Collection

These cars were built by Pullman in 1914, in Lot # and were listed as smokers. Because of this, they
4189. They were 72 seat cars with walk over seating, were kept in the “general pool” of equipment. In July
The B&O Modeler 25 January/February 2007
and August of 1939, the RF&P leased 4323 & 4329. Like the Ae, and the A-32a coach, these cars were
In December of 1939, 4323 was used in some kind of first painted Olive Green, and then Blue. None of
interchange with the Pere Marquette Railroad these cars appear to ever been painted in the Blue and
between Toledo and Detroit. Three of the cars were Gray scheme.
used in mixed service. Number 4330 was used in
West Virginia between Ripley and Millwood; 4332 First thing to do was to remove all of the windows
was used from Kenova, West Virginia to from the sides. This was done with a razor saw, and
Parkersburg, West Virginia; and 4334 (the subject of included all of the material between the vestibule
the model) was used Parkersburg to Kenova. in doors, and above the belt-rail. This included the
August of 1929. Perhaps these were “mixed” trains. letter-board. NERS paired windows were cut evenly
A list, dated October 5th, 1953 suggests that cars 4320 for length and spacing, and a lavatory window added
– 4331 were to be added to the next condemnation at opposite ends of the sides. When the sides are put
list. A note suggests that two were to be held at together, the lavatory and paired windows are paired
Pittsburgh, and two be held at Connellsville, off, as they should be. NERS windows are taller than
Pennsylvania to serve as protection for Rail Diesel the windows on the Ae. I realized this would be a
Cars. This would have been in 1953, to protect trains problem with simply cutting the letter-board from the
547 & 548. Norman Nelson recalls seeing a few of windows and gluing it back to the side. The
them in the coach yard at Camden in 1953 where difference is about 2 scale inches. This meant that the
they were held as spares and used at heavy demand difference would have to come out of the letter-board
times on trains such as the race track trains, other itself. Patience and a steady hand sawed off one row
specials, and locals. The last time he saw one was on of rivets from the letterboard, as well as the windows.
the “Apple Blossom Special” (Camden to The letter-board was then glued back on top of the
Winchester, Virginia) in the spring of 1954. The last NERS windows, and a piece of .030” x .040”
car in the class was taken out of service on August Evergreen styrene was used as a filler material for the
13, 1954. initial saw cut through the letter-board. The rest of
the Ae coach kit went together pretty much as
The Model indicated in the instructions for the basic body
Just because the two cars were the same length over assembly. I used some brass castings to replace some
pulling faces, didn’t mean that they were the same of the styrene castings with the Bethlehem Car
car. There are two major differences. First, an Ae had Works kit to improve durability. These included a
6 wheel trucks, and all of the windows on both sides body-mounted generator, vapor traps and hand brake
of the car were different from an A-17. How to cure chain multiplier. Though lavatory vents were
this? Walthers had just recently come out with supplied by BCW, they were replaced by vents
heavyweight 4 wheel trucks that replicated those on grafted off of a Bachmann heavyweight combine.
the A-17 (Eastern Car Works part number 9005 could The eighteen Gold roof vents (nine on each side)
also be used), and New England Rail Service (NERS) were from Bethlehem Car Works, “kit-bits” (part 34),
(http://www.newenglandrail.com) makes paired and not included in the Ae kit. (The 1938 photograph
windows as part number 200. of an A-17 has Ward vents, Bethlehem Car Works,
part 38). All grab irons and rain gutters were scratch
A Class A-17 coach has nine paired windows on each built from .010” brass rod. The car was painted
side of the car. There is a men’s and a women’s Floquil Dark Blue for the body and Engine Black for
lavatory on one end of the car only. All windows are the roof and underframe. Decals were a mixture
opposite each other for the entire length of the car. from Mt Clare Shops, Champ and Walthers.

Windows from original Ae kit.

The B&O Modeler 26 January/February 2007

Sides of the A-17 with the NERS windows added.

Prototype Car Specifics

The car that I chose to model is # 4334. It was built 1929. This included having the elliptical springs
by Pullman on May 26th 1914. Two factors were changed to 40”. The cars weight again changed, from
involved in this number selection. First it was among 116,600 to 116,300. The third change occurred
the last three cars in revenue service, and second, the January 20th 1934, with a flexible metallic steam heat
car had a body-mounted generator which I felt might connection, and again another weight change, from
add a bit more detail to the car. Car 4334 went 116,300 to 116,800. There were two additional
through five mechanical changes during its 40 years changes, on June 4th 1940, with the weight changing
of service. The first occurred August 11th 1917. At from 116,800 to 119,800, and on March 4th 1943,
this time, it is not known what this change was, but with the weight changing for the final time to
the lightweight of the car went from 116,000 to 118,400. At this time, I don't know what caused
116,600. The second change occurred April 29th these two weight changes.

Acknowledgements
Mark Morgan, Norman Nelson and Bill Barringer. A special thanks to these gentlemen for their assistance in the
prototype information, without which their might not have been an article.

Materials
W. K. Walthers
933-1077, Four Wheel Trucks Floquil
Decal for car number from Walthers B110050, Dark Blue
heavyweight coach # 932-10110 B110011, Engine Black

Bethlehem Car Works Mt Clare Shop

610, B&O Class Ae Coach 5001, 1” Dulux stripes
34, Gold Vents 3008, Lightweight letterboard

Bachmann Champion Decal Company

Lavatory vent from Bachmann heavyweight B&O Passenger Decals for 4” Stripe
B&O coach # 160-89345
Precision Scale
New England Rail Service Heavyweight vapor traps
200, Paired Windows Hand brake slack adjuster

The B&O Modeler 27 January/February 2007

Early 1960's at Rockville, MD. P.F Elliott photograph

A-17 Coach converted to Camp Car X4415 at Grafton, WV, July 16, 1955. Photographer unknown. Bill Barringer Collection

A-17 Coach #4330 at Jersey City, NJ, November 13, 1938. Photographer unknown. Raymond Stern Collection

The B&O Modeler 28 January/February 2007

 PLANNED FOR THE NEXT ISSUE
A Color Guide for Painting B&O Model Structures
Building a Winton Place Station Kit
Modeling B&O Open Hoppers, 1919 to 1963, Class W-1, Part 2

To subscribe, send an email to:

bomodeler-subscribe@yahoogroups.com

To unsubscribe send an email to:

bomodeler-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com

The B&O Modeler 29 January/February 2007