DEPARTMENT: MECHANICAL ENGINEERING

OPTION: AUTOMOBILE TEHNOLOGY

PROGRAM: ADVANCED DIPLOMA
ACADEMIC YEAR: 2021-2022

VEHICLE TRIM REPAIRING

AUTVT 601

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Contents
LIST OF FIGURES........................................................................................................................................................iii
ABBREVIATIONS AND ANCHRONYMS..................................................................................................................iv
LEARNING UNIT 1 - IDENTIFY TRIM COMPONENTS...........................................................................................1
Introduction................................................................................................................................................................ 1
Learning Outcome 1.1: Identify interior trim components..........................................................................................1
Identification of vehicle interior trim components:..................................................................................................2
Learning outcome.1.2: identify exterior trim components.......................................................................................13
Learning Outcome 1.3: Describe interior and exterior trim components..................................................................14
LEARNING UNIT 2 - SERVICE INTERIOR TRIM COMPONENTS........................................................................49
Learning Outcome 2.1: Check interior trim components..........................................................................................49
Learning Outcome 2.2: Select tools, materials and equipments...............................................................................50
Learning Outcome 2.3: Remove, repair and replace interior trim components........................................................50
Learning Outcome 2.4: Fit and verify interior trim components...............................................................................51
Learning Outcome 2.5: Clean work area and maintain equipments.........................................................................51
LEARNING UNIT 3 - SERVICE EXTERIOR TRIM COMPONENTS........................................................................................52
Learning Outcome 3.1: Check exterior trim components..........................................................................................52
Learning Outcome 3.2: Select tools, materials and equipments...............................................................................52
Learning Outcome 3.3: Remove, Repair And Replace Exterior Trim Components....................................................61
REFERENCES.................................................................................................................................................................. 72

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LIST OF FIGURES

LEARNING UNIT 1 - IDENTIFY TRIM COMPONENTS

Introduction

As we know there are many parts in the car. In a car trims are all aesthetic parts that do not add functionality
to the vehicle which enhancing the aesthetic and cool factor.

They are divided into 2 parts

•Interior trims, for instance- dashboard, door panel etc

•Exterior trims- It can make the car more beautiful and fashion able and meet about aesthetic and individual
need.

For instance- bumper, headlight, wheel wells etc

Learning Outcome 1.1: Identify interior trim components

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Identification of vehicle exterior trim components:

Mechanical trim components:

Bumper: Car bumpers feature protruding shrouds of plastic or metal, called bumper covers that surround
energy-absorbing materials. They are designed to absorb impact to the front and rear of vehicles and
minimize low-speed collision damage.

Today, standard passenger vehicle bumpers have a rigid reinforcing bar under the outer cover, with sections
of compressible foam or plastic underneath. In the United States, passenger car bumpers must absorb a five
mph impact from another vehicle with no damage to the car body. The foam or plastic make this possible.
At impact that material squishes down between the reinforcing bar and the vehicle’s body.

Types of Bumpers

Though U.S. law specifies bumper height and impact resistance, not all car bumpers are the same. Not by a
long shot! Here are the basic types.

Standard Bumper:  Common on passenger vehicles. It has no steps or hitches, just a paint-matched plastic
cover containing energy absorbing mechanisms.

Figure 1: Standard bumper

Step Bumper: SUVs, trucks and some cars have bumpers with a step-shaped cutout in the center, just below
the license plate. These bumpers often have holes for installation of ball hitches.

A step bumper is essentially a standard bumper with a step in the middle. It makes it easy to swing a leg up
into your truck bed. You can purchase a step bumper with or without a towing hitch.

Figure 2: step bumper

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Cowboy Bumper: These tall, heavy-duty bumpers usually have chrome plating and are most often seen on
older trucks. They’re made to be noticed and tow heavy trailers.

Deep drop bumpers (also known as cowboy bumpers) sit a little taller or longer than standard bumpers. This
type of bumper is designed for heavy workloads as well as damage prevention. The unique shape of a deep
drop bumper is extremely durable and allows for extra towing capacity

Figure 3: cowboy/deep drop bumper

Tube Bumper: Typically installed on jeeps and lifted trucks, tube bumpers forgo the plastic-shroud.
Instead, they rely on a frame of heavy-duty steel tubing to lessen collision damage. Tube bumpers are
popular not only for their functionality but also for their style. Rather than sitting directly below the grill, the
thin, tubular shape of this bumper allows it to rest over the truck’s lights as well. When made with the proper
materials, tube bumpers are lightweight as well as durable, and efficient as well as stylish.

Figure 4: tube bumper

Roll Pan Bumper

If using a bumper as an accessory isn’t your thing, consider investing in a roll pan bumper. A roll pan
bumper is designed to be relatively incognito on your vehicle. It blends in with the bottom of the truck and
creates a seamless, streamlined look. 

Figure 5: Roll pan bumper

Bonnet: A car hood is the metal part that covers the engine of an automobile. The term car hood is a North
American term, used primarily in America and Canada. Hood comes from the Old English word hod which
means a hood, a soft covering for the head. Interestingly, hood is used by British English-speakers to refer to
the waterproof cloth top covering the passenger compartment of a car or pram.
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A car bonnet is the metal part that covers the engine of an automobile. The term car bonnet is a British
term, used primarily in England, Ireland, Scotland, Wales, India, New Zealand, Australia, etc. Bonnet comes
from the Old French word bonet, which means cloth used as a headdress.

Types of hoods

Cowl Hoods

Cowl: is the top portion of the front part of an automobile body forward of the two front doors to which are
attached the windshield and instrument board.

This type of hood describes a complete, factory made hood that is ready for assembly right from the
manufacturer. This type of hood allows air to be forced through quickly and directly into the air inducers,
which allows the air to blow into the combustion chambers. This is often known as cowl induction, hence
the cowl hood. Since air is one of the most important components to get the proper fuel ignition for
performance, a cowl hood is an easy fix. The more air that the engine receives; the better the engine will run.
The process of custom fitting a cowl hood involves an alteration of the previous hood. You need to
determine the exact size to have it fit on your vehicle and work right. The cowl is then attached to the hood
to allow proper ventilation. There are various types of cowl hoods that you can choose from, depending on
your tastes and what looks good on your vehicle.

Figure 6: Cowl bonnet or hood

Carbon Fiber Hoods

You can buy carbon fiber hoods in various colors and sizes, depending how big your vehicle is and what
color you would like the hood. They are made from carbon fiber which allows your engine to get the proper
air circulation, while still being able to look stylish. A carbon fiber hood will give your vehicle the air it
needs for maximum engine performance.

Figure 7: Carbon fiber hood

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Fiberglass Hoods

Fiberglass hoods are easy to assemble and they allow the right amount of air ventilation while still being
stylish. You can order your fiberglass hood, choosing from different colors and sizes to match the needs of
your vehicle. They are made from fiberglass, which means that they are not easily dented or ruined by small
accidents. This can save you a lot of money in the long run.

Figure 8: Fiberglass Hood or bonnet

Steel Hoods

Depending on your vehicle, you may need a steel hood. These are heavy duty hoods that are rather large and
bulky. They can be bought inexpensively, and in an assortment of colors and sizes to meet your vehicles
needs. They also allow proper ventilation throughout the hood of your vehicle to ensure the engine is getting
enough for the air inducers, which allows your engine to run better.

Hood Materials

Because the hood is usually detachable from the rest of the frame with relatively minimal effort, vehicles
may sport hoods made from different materials than the rest of the body. 

1. Steel

Steel is synonymous with strength and durability. It has been the go-to metal for engineering needs,
including automobiles.

The varying formulas for steel have a large impact on its performance, so the standard form of steel used for
cars has a higher weight than the alternative hood materials. Its low price is still a major reason for its
continued usage as the standard hood material.

2. Aluminum

Although most people interact with aluminum as a lightweight foil, thick aluminum is a durable metal that’s
resistant to rust while weighing less than heavier elements.

Aluminum isn’t quite as strong as steel, so these hoods can be dinged and dented more easily. The durability
isn’t as significant in a crash where the vehicle will be reliant on crumple zones and other safety features
more than the strength of the hood.

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3. Fiberglass

While lightweight, inexpensive, and convenient, fiberglass is the least durable of the common hood
materials. It’s also prone to ignition and produces toxic fumes. These problems rear their head in cheaper
fiberglass products, but higher quality ones are less prone to issues.

See also 5 Different Types of Vehicle Suspension for Cars

That offsets some of the price reduction, but a good fiberglass hood will cut vehicle weight without
sacrificing much safety or durability.

4. Carbon Fiber

Specially engineered strands of carbon can be turned into a light yet incredibly durable material. The extra
chemical and mechanical processing does make it the most expensive option, but using it can easily shave
up to half of the hood’s weight.

It’s not a major cut off of the overall weight, but it can add up with other weight reduction measures when
trying to maximize performance.

Fiberglass weighs about the same while being cheaper, but you can make the majority of a car out of carbon
fiber without sacrificing structural integrity or safety. 

Hood Features

1. Windshield Washer Nozzle

Windshield washer nozzles are the most common additional feature of vehicle hoods. A quick touch of a
lever inside the cabin mists the windshield with a special cleaner that improves visibility as the wipers do
their job.

They are fairly cheap and easy to install if your vehicle lacks nozzles. 

2. Scoops

Combustion engines rely on the interaction between fuel, heat, and oxygen to create power. They also use
the surrounding air to cool down the engine.

Hood scoops alter the airflow in ways that can help one or the other, depending on the style of scoop. The
extra openings allow more sound to escape the bonnet, so the noise level of the engine may be a concern as
you add scoops of any type.

a. Ram Air Intake Scoops

These scoops face forward to get more cold air into the engine as the vehicle moves faster. The air pushes its
way through a narrow opening before spreading out into the engine, cooling the air while manipulating the
pressure within the compartment.

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b. Shaker Scoops

Named for its tell-tale rumbling while the engine is running, shaker scoops are attached directly to the
engine. Since the extra air is expedited to the parts that need it most, they are great at reducing heat and
improving performance.

Even the best shaker scoop is incredibly noisy, though, and larger ones may obstruct a bit of your view.

c. Cowl Induction Scoops

It’s easy to mistake a cowl induction scoop for just a variant hood design. An opening near the window
catches the air splashing off of the vehicle’s windshield, sends it shooting down the scoop, and helps bring
the engine’s temperature down.

Unlike other scoops, cowl induction scoops are definitely better to purchase as part of the core design than
to install as a modification.

It’s not impossible, but the savings become less attractive when you add in the extra time to modify the hood
and weld the scoop into place. Ordering a new one is just much easier unless the part simply isn’t available.

d. Intercooler Scoops

Turbochargers allow vehicle designers to either improve overall performance or get the same performance
out of a smaller engine. The extra oxygen along with the fuel creates a more powerful explosion with a
lower quantity.

An intercooler scoop is similar to a ram air scoop, but the air is directed to the turbocharger to cool it down
from the hot gasses that power it.

3. Louvre Vents

As has been established, more cool air into the engine is good, but extra gunk carried in the wind can inhibit
performance and cause damage. Louvre vents in a vehicle’s hood allow the hot air inside the engine to go up
and out of the compartment.

They also keep any debris from falling into the engine through the opening. Installing them does require
permanent hood modification, similar to installing smaller scoops, but it can be done with minimal cost or
experience.

4. Hood Pins

A single latch that is properly used is secure enough for most vehicles. A double latch is even more secure.
Still, if a driver wants to be absolutely sure that the hood stays in place, pins are the most reliable method. 

Proper hood pins require holes drilled through the hood, so installing them makes a permanent modification
to it. Since they are typically an aftermarket addition, making sure they are properly installed is important
for safety purposes.

Some people really enjoy the appearance of hood pins, but they don’t want to put holes in their hood. For
those people, stick on hood pins mimics the appearance without permanent damage to the hood.

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5. Hood Locks

A car that looks like it’s seen a lot of care and attention will indicate to potential thieves that there might be
something valuable under the hood.

There is plenty of damage that can be done without getting into the hood, and an intelligent thief who was
determined can eventually bypass the lock.

Still, hood locks add an extra sense of security and an indication to potential thieves that you are likely to
have other security methods, stopping them from even trying.

6. Hood Ornaments

For something that represents a significant investment of time and money, a little vanity is warranted. An
ornament is like a figurehead for your land cruiser, so it can convey a lot of personality but gives no
performance benefits.

Stiff ornament stands can cause additional damage in the case of an impact, so opt for a collapsing stand,
check your local regulations, and use common sense before sticking extra dangerous options on the front of
your vehicle.

Hood Maintenance and Repair

Regular hood maintenance involves keeping the hood free from anything that causes rusting, paint damage,
and other long-term degradation while ensuring that it properly secures in place when latched or pinned.

That includes regular washing and polishing. If you notice excess flapping as your vehicle’s speed increases,
do not hesitate to stop, check that the hood is secured, then drive at a slower speed until you are sure of its
safety.

Minor repairs will include removing dents and repainting minor scratches. The large, flat surface of a hood
is bendable with most common materials, but they can frequently be popped into their proper shape.

Minor scrapes won’t immediately cause damage, but exposed steel should be repainted to avoid rusting that
leads to major damage.

Most major repairs involve a full replacement of the hood. Extensive damage or rusting is difficult to
properly repair. Carbon fiber hoods can be superficially repaired, but the structural integrity is severely
weakened.

Replacing the hood only takes a few minutes on most models, time varying based on knowledge and
expertise.

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Boot lid

What is a car boot lid

The trunk lid (in the U.S. automotive industry sometimes also called deck lid or deck lid) is the cover that
allows access to the main storage or luggage compartment

A tailboard would be the name of the opening panel found at the rear on a pick-up type vehicle, while a boot
lid is the name for the panel that closes the boot or trunk

Figure 9: boot lid types

✓ Electrical trim components:

Battery

The starter battery supplies and stores the energy for the electrical systems in a motor vehicle. As it can be
recharged, it is also referred to as an accumulator. The battery is a device that converts chemical energy
into electrical energy and vice versa it is also the primary "source" of electrical energy on vehicles. It stores
chemicals, not electricity. Two different types of lead in an acid mixture react to produce an electrical
pressure. This electrochemical reaction changes chemical energy to electrical energy.

Functions of battery

Battery energy is used to operate the lighting and accessory systems, when the engine is off

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Battery energy is used to operate the starter motor and to provide current for the ignition system during
cranking, when engine is started.

Battery energy may be needed when the vehicle's electrical load requirements exceed the supply from the
charging system, when engine is running.

Battery design

Figure 10: starter battery

HEAD LIGHT

A headlamp is a lamp attached to the front of a vehicle to illuminate the road ahead. Headlamps are also
often called headlights, but in the most precise usage, headlamp is the term for the device itself and
headlight is the term for the beam of light produced and distributed by the device

There are three main types of headlights: LED, HID or ‘xenon’, and halogen. We’re going to take you
through the features of all three, so you have all the information you need to make the best decision for your
car.

Halogen headlights
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Halogen headlights have been the standard for many years and are still the most common headlight in use
today. They are affordable, last a long time, and are easy to replace. However, there are some downsides to
this popular headlight. They are not as energy efficient as LED and HID headlights and tend to generate
excess heat. The good news is that energy-saving halogen bulbs are now on the market and availability is on
the rise.

LED headlights

Light emitting diode (LED) headlights are still relatively new to

Figure 11: Halogen head light the scene, but they certainly bring a lot to the table. Unlike
Halogen and HID lights, LED lights generate almost no heat, instead converting most of their energy into
light. Low energy requirements mean LED headlights reduce emissions and help preserve your Car’s
battery.

Why isn’t everyone switching to LED? While some newer models of cars come fitted with them already,
converting from halogen to LED can be a little trickier. Firstly, they are more expensive than regular
halogen headlights. Secondly, there are some physical and legal obstacles to overcome if you want to
convert from halogen to LED. In Australia, your state’s road authority will be able to advice on the legality
of LED conversions.

Figure 12: LED head light

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HID headlights (Xenons)

High intensity discharge (HID) headlights - also called ‘xenon’s’ after the gas used in them - are known for
their brightness. In fact, they tend to be up to three times brighter than the average halogen light, making
them great for outback driving and country roads. Despite the extra brightness, HID headlights actually use
less energy than halogen lights and have a long lifespan. Many new cars already have HID globes fitted as
car makers look to more energy efficient solutions than the traditional halogen.

Figure 13: HID head light

AIR BAG

An airbag is a vehicle occupant-restraint system using a bag designed to inflate extremely quickly, then
quickly deflate during a collision. It consists of the airbag cushion, a flexible fabric bag, an inflation module,
and an impact sensor. The purpose of the airbag is to provide a vehicle occupant with a soft cushioning and
restraint during a collision. It can reduce injuries between the flailing occupant and the interior of the
vehicle.

Learning outcome.1.2: identify exterior trim components

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Figure 14: exterior trim components

A car hood, also referred to as a bonnet in some other countries, is the hinged cover that rests over the
engine of a front-engine vehicle. Its purpose is to provide access to the engine for repair and maintenance. A
concealed latch is typically used to hold down the hood.

Hood Materials

Because the hood is usually detachable from the rest of the frame with relatively minimal effort, vehicles
may sport hoods made from different materials than the rest of the body. 

1. Steel

Steel is synonymous with strength and durability. It has been the go-to metal for engineering needs,
including automobiles.

The varying formulas for steel have a large impact on its performance, so the standard form of steel used for
cars has a higher weight than the alternative hood materials. Its low price is still a major reason for its
continued usage as the standard hood material.

2. Aluminum

Although most people interact with aluminum as a lightweight foil, thick aluminum is a durable metal that’s
resistant to rust while weighing less than heavier elements.

Aluminum isn’t quite as strong as steel, so these hoods can be dinged and dented more easily. The durability
isn’t as significant in a crash where the vehicle will be reliant on crumple zones and other safety features
more than the strength of the hood.

3. Fiberglass

While lightweight, inexpensive, and convenient, fiberglass is the least durable of the common hood
materials. It’s also prone to ignition and produces toxic fumes. These problems rear their head in cheaper
fiberglass products, but higher quality ones are less prone to issues.

4. Carbon Fiber

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Specially engineered strands of carbon can be turned into a light yet incredibly durable material. The extra
chemical and mechanical processing does make it the most expensive option, but using it can easily shave
up to half of the hood’s weight.

Learning Outcome 1.3: Describe interior and exterior trim components

INTERIOR VEHICLE TRIM

DASH BOARD

Figure 15: Dashboard

The speedometer: displays vehicle speed in MPH(Mile Per Hour), using a pointer The odometer: displays
distance traveled by a vehicle

The tachometer: displays engine speed in RPM(Revolution Per Minute). The fuel gauge: displays the
quantity of fuel in the fuel tank

The temperature gauge: displays engine coolant temperature.

Warning lamps: have red, green, orange or blue lenses.

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They typically indicate: oil pressure, parking brake, hi beam, ABS, seat belt and battery status, direction
indication etc.

Typical Instrument Cluster Construction

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PCB: Printed Circuit Board mechanically supports and electrically connects electronic component or
electrical components.

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19
Mechanically Driven Analog Speedometer

The transmission housing contains a drive gear that rotates the inner cable. The cable rotates a speedometer
head magnet, which moves the pointer.

It has an inner cable with a drive gear that moves within the outer housing.

Figure 16: Analogue speedometer

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Figure 17: Electrical speedometer

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The transmission housing is fitted with a trigger wheel and a speed sensor. The ECU converts the signal into
speedometer drive signals.

Some systems use a stepper motor to deflect the pointer.

Figure 18: analogue tachometer

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Figure 19: Digital tachometer

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Figure 20: Body computer

POWER MIRROR SYSTEM

The power mirror system consists of a joystick-type control switch and a dual motor drive assembly located
in each mirror assembly. Rotating the power mirror switch to the left or right position selects one of the
mirrors for adjustment.

Moving the joystick control up and down or right and left moves the mirror to the desired position. The dual
motor drive assembly is located behind the mirror glass. The position of the mirrors may be tied to the
memory power seats and will automatically adjust when a seating position is selected.

Operation

Usually, a single control is used to control both left and right side mirrors. A mirror is selected by a switch
or a knob. The mirror selector usually has a neutral position with none mirrors selected, to prevent
accidental changes of the view. The position of the selected mirror is adjusted by a joystick, a four-way
knob, or other type of position control.

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Electrical circuit of power mirror

Figure 21: Electrical power mirror

A typical power mirror circuit is an independent circuit unless it is tied into the convenience memory
system. In that case, the BCM (Body Control Module) controls the mirrors along with the seats. The BCM
in a few vehicles automatically tilts the passenger-side outside mirror downward whenever the transmission
is placed into reverse. This allows the driver to see the area directly next to the vehicle.

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POWER MIRROR TROUBLESHOOTING

Power Mirror is not working Inspection Service

Common reasons for this to happen:

Power mirror internal mechanisms are bad

The power mirror relies on a series of pins, a plastic mirror glass holder, and a small motor so that it can
move to the right setting. When these break, your mirror won’t move correctly.

Mirror switch needs replacement

The power mirror control inside your car may either have contaminants behind the button or the switch itself
may be defective.

Ice is on the power mirror

For those who live in cold icy climates, ice may also prevent your mirrors from moving.

d) Blown fuse

If your car recently had new electronics installed such as a new radio or battery, it may be possible that a
fuse has blown.

Electric Mirror Repair

a) Adjusting the Voltage

If you are having problems with your car's electric mirror, it could be a result of a severed or shorted
electrical connection or other voltage related problems. The problem could be a faulty fuse, or a short in the
wiring leading to the mirror from the fuse panel. Fortunately, troubleshooting or adjusting electrical voltage
problems with your car's electric mirror is not that difficult, and this simple how-to guide will show you how
to make adjustments and corrections to get your electric mirror working again.

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Step 1 - Switch Ignition to 'ACC' Position

Place the key in your car's ignition, and turn the switch to the 'ACC' position. Do not start the car, but rather
simply ensure that devices in your car are receiving power. When your car's ignition switch is in this
position, the mirrors should be able to be operated as they normally would while you are driving.

Step 2 - Check the Fuse

Refer to your car owners manual or the fuse diagram on the fuse box cover to see which fuse contis used for
electrical mirrors in your vehicle. Then, remove the fuse and inspect it. If the small metal filament in the
fuse appears to be broken or corroded, replace the fuse and see if that fixes the voltage problems for your
electric mirrors.

Step 3 - Inspect the Electrical Wiring Between Mirror and Fuse Panel

If the problems with your car's electrical mirror are not related to a bad fuse, you will then need to inspect
the wiring between the electrical mirror and the fuse panel. If you are having problems with a driver or
passenger side electrical mirror, you'll need to remove the door panel on the side of the faulty mirror. Once
you have gained access to the wiring for the electrical mirror, inspect the entire length of the wiring for any
breaks in the wiring that could indicate a short that will prevent the necessary voltage from being passed
from your car's computer to the electrical mirror.

If you do find breaks in the wiring, you can attempt to splice the wiring with electrical tape or wire caps and
see if this corrects the voltage issues with your electrical mirrors. Even if you do not notice any visible
breaks in the wiring, you should use the multimeter to test the continuity of the wiring.

Step 4 - Check the Controller

Unplug the control switch for the faulty electrical mirror and use a multimeter to test for continuity. If there
are continuity problems with the control switch, purchase a new one from the dealer and replace it. You can
also use a piece of electrical wire to assist you in testing the control switch. Once you remove the switch
from the mounting panel, leave the wiring connected and attach one end of the piece of electrical wire to the
ground position on the control switch and the other end to a grounded piece of metal on your vehicle. Then
attempt to use the mirror. If the mirror works, you will need to replace the ground wire used with the control
switch.

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Sunroof

An automotive sunroof is a movable (typically glass) panel that is operable to uncover an opening in an
automobile roof, which allows light and/or fresh air to enter the passenger compartment. Sunroofs are either
manually operated or motor driven, and are available in many shapes, sizes and styles.

While the term sunroof is now used generically to describe any glass panel in the roof, the term "moon roof"
was historically used to describe stationary glass panes rigidly mounted in the roof panel over the passenger
compartment. Previous terms include Sunshine Roof, Sliding Head and Sliding Roof

Figure 22: Sun roof type

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Sunroof types

Roof systems are available in many shapes, sizes and styles, and are known by many names. The generally
accepted sunroof/moon roof industry terms are as follows:

Pop-up sunroofs are simply a manually operated tilting panel. These panels are usually removable, and like
T-roofs, must be stored when removed. The tilting action provides a vent in the roof, or a full opening when
the panel is removed. Pop-ups can be installed in most vehicles, and are relatively inexpensive.

Spoiler sunroofs (tilt-&-slides) combine the features of a pop-up with those of a sliding roof system. They
tilt to vent and slide open above the roof, requiring little headroom or roof length. Spoilers typically do not
provide as large an opening as other roof systems, but offer the convenience of a self-storing panel. Most
spoiler roofs are electric, with optional features like integrated sun shades and express open/close.

Inbuilt sunroof systems have a panel which slides between the metal roof and interior headliner, requiring
some loss of headroom but providing a full opening in the roof. All inbuilts slide inside the roof, while some
also include a rear venting feature (see pop-up), and/or express open/close functions.

Folding sunroofs (often called rag-tops or cabrio coach) are a European tradition. They offer the
convenience of a sunroof, with an opening more like a convertible. The panel is made of fabric (often vinyl),
which folds back as it slides open.

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Top-mount sliding sunroofs (rail mount top slider) have been a popular factory option in Europe for many
years. A large glass panel slides open in tracks on top of the roof, with no loss of headroom.

Panoramic roof systems are a type of large or multi-panel moon roof which offer openings above both the
front and rear seats and may be operable or fixed glass panels.

Removable roof panels (t-tops or targa roofs) open a vehicle roof to the side windows, providing a wider
opening than other roof systems.

Solar sunroofs are made of glass, with an inlaid photovoltaic solar that makes the glass totally opaque. They
operate the same as conventional factory-fitted glass moon roofs (tilting and retracting), but when closed the
solar panel provides electricity to power the interior ventilation fans, for cooling the car interior on hot days
when the car is standing outside in the sunlight.

Moon roof is a transparent, usually glass or plexiglass, sunroof that lets light in while closed.

Power Sunroof Diagnosis & Testing

Any diagnosis of the power sunroof system should begin with the use of a scan tool and the proper
Diagnostic Procedures Information.

Refer to the list below for possible causes. Before beginning sunroof diagnostics, verify that all other power
accessories are in proper operating condition. If not, a common electrical problem may exist. Refer to
Wiring Diagrams in this publication for circuit, splice, and component descriptions.

The sunroof motor is inoperative.

Possible causes:

 Faulty control switch

 Faulty circuit ground between the sunroof module, control switch, and body harness
 Faulty power circuit between the sunroof module, control switch, and body harness
 Faulty sunroof drive motor
 Faulty sunroof module
 Audible whine when the switch is depressed, the sunroof does not operate.
 Possible causes:
 Binding cable
 Faulty sunroof drive motor
 Audible clicking or ratcheting when the switch is pressed, the sunroof does not operate.
 Possible causes:
 Broken or worn drive cable
 Worn drive motor gear
 Mechanisms not synchronized
 Sunroof vents and opens, but does not close, Possible causes:
 Broken or disengaged trough guide
 Binding cable
 Faulty circuit
 Faulty control switch
 Faulty sunroof module

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 Faulty drive motor
 Sunroof vents, but does not open. Possible causes:
 Faulty control switch
 Faulty circuit
 Binding cable or mechanism
 Faulty sunroof module
 Sunroof does not vent. Possible causes:
 Faulty control switch
 Faulty circuit
 Binding cable or mechanism
 Faulty sunroof module

31
32
MOTOR

Before beginning sunroof diagnostics, verify that all other power accessories are in proper operating
condition. If not, a common electrical problem may exist.

Before servicing the vehicle, refer to the Precautions Section.

Remove the overhead console.

Disconnect the power sunroof switch wire harness connector.

Replacement Drive Motor

Operate the sunroof manually and continuously through one full Vent and Slide cycle.

After the completion of a complete cycle, release the sunroof switch. The sunroof will now operate
normally.

Verify the sunroof express function operation.

Removal & Installation Motor

Before servicing the vehicle, refer to the Precautions Section.

Move the glass panel to the fully closed position.

Disconnect and isolate the battery negative cable.

Remove the sun visors and vanity mirrors.

33
Remove the sun visor center supports.

Remove the grab handles, coat hooks, and overhead rail console system, if equipped.

Remove the A-pillar trim covers.

Remove the B-pillar upper trim covers.

Remove the C-pillar upper trim covers.

Remove the D-pillar trim covers.

Remove the liftgate opening header trim.

If equipped, remove the overhead console screws.

If equipped, remove the reading lamps.

Remove the dome lamp.

Remove the push-in locking fasteners attaching the headliner to the rear roof header and roof bows.

Remove the overhead rail console system with DVD Player and related parts, if equipped.

Disconnect the wiring connections.

Remove the headliner from the roof.

Extract the headliner through the liftgate opening.

Disconnect the 4 drain tubes from the sunroof housing.

Loosen the fasteners attaching the sunroof assembly.

With the aid of a helper, support the sunroof and remove the fasteners attaching the sunroof assembly to the
roof panel.

Remove the sunroof assembly, with the motor, from the vehicle.

Remove the motor from the assembly.

34
Figure 23: Exploded view of sunroof components

To install:

Install the motor into the assembly.

Raise the sunroof module assembly and guide it carefully into position.

While supporting the sunroof assembly, tighten the attaching screws to 53 inch lbs. (6 Nm).

Connect the drain tubes to the sunroof.

Connect the battery negative cable.

Test the sunroof operation, adjust as necessary. To make adjustments to the glass panel and motor, follow
this procedure:

Move the sunshade rearward to the open position.

Move the sunroof glass panel to the fully closed position.

Loosen the forward attaching screws on each side enough to allow the front of the glass to adjust up or
down.

Adjust the front surface of the sunroof glass panel 0.00-0.07 inch (0.00mm- 1.75mm) below the top surface
of the roof.

Tighten the front glass panel attaching screws to 31 inch lbs. (4 Nm).

35
Loosen the rear screws on each side enough to make the rear adjustment.

Adjust the rear surface of the sunroof glass panel 0.00-0.07 inch (0.00mm- 1.75mm) above the top surface
of the roof.

Tighten the rear glass panel attaching screws to 31 inch lbs. (4 Nm).

Check for proper fit. If not OK, repeat the adjustment procedure.

Installation continues with the placement of the headliner.

Insert the headliner through the liftgate opening.

Place the headliner in position on the roof.

Connect the wire connectors.

With the overhead rail system, ensure that the wire connectors for the DVD player and the heater A/C
control are positioned through the opening.

Install the left sun visor support.

Install the push-in locking fasteners attaching the headliner to the rear roof header and bows.

Install the right sun visor support.

Install the sun visors and vanity mirrors.

If equipped, install the roof rail modules, coat hooks, and grab handles.

Install the dome lamp.

If equipped, install the reading lamp.

If equipped, install the overhead rail console system.

Install the lift gate opening header trim.

Install the D-pillar trim covers.

Install the C-pillar upper trim covers.

Install the B-pillar upper trim covers.

Install A-pillar trim covers.

Test the sunroof assembly and related components for proper operation.

Switch

Before servicing the vehicle, refer to the Precautions Section.

Disconnect and isolate the battery negative cable.

36
Separate the overhead console from the headliner by carefully pulling down on the front portion toward the
windshield and releasing the retaining clips.

37
Release the sunroof switch retaining tab, disconnect the electrical connector, and remove the switch from the
overhead console.

Remove the switch from the overhead console

To install:

Position the switch against the overhead console and push the switch to seat it properly in the retaining clip.

Install the overhead console.

Connect the negative battery cable.

Check for proper function of the sunroof assembly.

SEAT

38
39
POWER SEAT

Figure 24: Power seat

40
The power seat help us for adjustment of seat or control the seat. Here the seat controls are located on the
door panels, next to the memory seat controls.

A power seat in an automobile is a front seat which can be adjusted by using a switch or joystick and a set of
small electric motors.

In addition to fore and aft adjustments, power seats can be raised or lowered and tilted to suit the comfort of
the driver and/or passenger.

POWER SEAT ELECTRICAL CIRCUIT

41
POWER SEAT TROUBLESHOOTING

One of the most common troubles in power seats include

-Motor

-fuse

-switches

-Wires

inspect the seat rails and the area under the seat with a flashlight and make sure there are no objects
obstructing or preventing seat movement.

Inspect the fuse or circuit breaker if both front power seats fail to operate.

42
Turn on the ignition switch, but do not start the engine. Operate the power seat switch and listen for the
motor running under the failed seat. If you do not hear any sound coming from the motor, lift the switch
from the door panel or the side of the seat.

43
Check for incoming voltage at the switch using a test light. If there is no voltage, check the wiring between
the switch and the fuse panel for an open or short.

Unplug the switch and test it for continuity using a multimeter. If there is no continuity, replace the switch.

Test the relay if your circuit has one between the switch and the failed motor. Operate the switch and make
sure the relay is receiving voltage from the switch; also, test for outgoing voltage from the relay to the motor
using a test light. Make sure the relay is properly grounded. Remove or move the seat to the side if possible
for this test. If one of the voltages is not present, check that part of the wire for an open or short. If there is
no outgoing voltage, test the relay for proper operation and replace it if necessary.

Check for incoming voltage at the failed motor or motors using a test light. If there is no incoming voltage,
test the wire or wires for continuity between the motor and switch or relay, looking for an open or a short.

Unplug the failed motor and test it outside, connecting the motor to the car battery using two jumper wires.
If the motor still does not operate, replace it.

Inspect the drive assembly-transmission, gears and tracks-and make sure the mechanism is in good
condition. Make repairs as necessary.

Tips

Switches and motors are the most common trouble spots for power seats.

It is a good idea to work with the wiring diagram for your power seats on hand. Most vehicle service
manuals come with wiring diagrams for the different electrical systems.

Buy a service manual at most auto parts store or consult one for free at your local public library.

AIR BAG

An airbag is a vehicle occupant restraint system using a bag designed to inflate extremely rapidly then
quickly deflate during a collision.

It consists of the airbag cushion, a flexible fabric bag, and inflation module and impact sensor. The purpose
of the airbag is to provide the occupants a soft cushioning and restraint during a crash event. It can reduce
injuries between the flailing occupant and the interior of the vehicle.

44
Figure 25: Air bag

45
46
Figure 26: Air bag module

The airbag provides an energy absorbing surface between the vehicle's occupants and a steering wheel,
instrument panel, as well as the body pillars, headliner, and windshield. Modern vehicles may contain
multiple airbag modules in various configurations including, driver, passenger, side curtain, seat-mounted
side impact, knee bolster, inflatable seat-belt, front right and left side sensors and pedestrian airbag modules.

During a crash, the vehicle's crash sensors provide crucial information to the airbag electronic controller unit

(ECU), including collision type, angle and severity of impact. Using this information, the airbag electronic
controller unit's crash algorithm determines if the crash event meets the criteria for deployment and triggers
various firing circuits to deploy one or more airbag modules within the vehicle.

47
The airbags in the vehicle are controlled by a central airbag control unit (ACU), a specific type of ECU. The
ACU monitors a number of related sensors within the vehicle, including accelerometers, impact sensors,
side (door) pressure sensors, wheel speed sensors, gyroscopes, brake pressure sensors, and seat occupancy
sensors. The bag itself and its inflation mechanism is concealed within the steering wheel boss (for the
driver), or the dashboard (for the front passenger), behind plastic flaps or doors which are designed to tear
open under the force of the bag inflating.

The signals from the various sensors are fed into the airbag control unit, which determines from them the
angle of impact, the severity, or force of the crash, along with other variables. Depending on the result of
these calculations, the ACU may also deploy various additional restraint devices, such as seat belt pre-
tensioners, and/or airbags (including frontal bags for driver and front passenger, along with seat-mounted
side bags, and "curtain" airbags which cover the side glass).

Each restraint device is typically activated with one or more pyrotechnic devices, commonly called an
initiator or electric match. The electric match, which consists of an electrical conductor wrapped in a
combustible material, activates with a current pulse between 1 and 3 amperes in less than 2 milliseconds.
When the conductor becomes hot enough, it ignites the combustible material, which initiates the gas
generator. In a seat belt pre-tensioner, this hot gas is used to drive a piston that pulls the slack out of the seat
belt. In an airbag, the initiator is used to ignite solid propellant inside the airbag inflator. The burning
propellant generates inert gas which rapidly inflates the airbag in approximately 20 to 30 milliseconds.

An airbag must inflate quickly in order to be fully inflated by the time the forward-traveling occupant
reaches its outer surface. Typically, the decision to deploy an airbag in a frontal crash is made within 15 to
30 milliseconds after the onset of the crash, and both the driver and passenger airbags are fully inflated
within approximately 60–80 milliseconds after the first moment of vehicle contact. If an airbag deploys too
late or too slowly, the risk of occupant injury from contact with the inflating airbag may increase. Since
more distance typically exists between the passenger and the instrument panel, the passenger airbag is larger
and requires more gas to fill it.

How does an air bag work

There are three parts to an air bag. First, there is the bag itself, which is made of thin, nylon fabric and
folded into the steering wheel or the dash board. Then there is the sensor that tells the bag to inflate. It
detects a collision force equal to running into a brick wall at 10 to 15 miles per hour (16 to 24 kph).

Finally, there is the inflation system. Air bags are actually inflated by the equivalent of a solid rocket
booster. Sodium azide (NaN3) and potassium nitrate (KNO3) react very quickly to produce a large pulse of
hot nitrogen gas. This gas inflates the bag, which literally bursts out of the steering wheel or dashboard as it
expands. About a second later, the bag is already deflating (it has holes in it) in order to get out of your way.

48
EXTERIOR VEHICLE TRIM

FENDER

Figure 27: Fender

A metal or plastic enclosure over the wheels of an automobile or other vehicle to protect against splashing
mud, etc.

BUMPERS

a bar at the front and back of the body of a motor vehicle that keeps it from being damaged when hit

DIFFERENT TYPES OF BUMPERS TO CONSIDER

Standard Bumper

Figure 28: standard bumper

A standard bumper is a simple, below-the-grille bumper that stretches from the front left of a truck to the
front right. Most standard bumpers are produced directly by a vehicle’s manufacturer to specifically fit that
vehicle. However, the quality often leaves something to be desired. Cheap materials might look the part, but
in an actual collision, they wouldn’t do a very good job protecting your truck.

Step Bumper

A step bumper is essentially a standard bumper with a step in the middle. It makes it easy to swing a leg up
into your truck bed. You can purchase a step bumper with or without a towing hitch.

TAILGATE

A tailgate is a door at the back of a truck or car that is hinged at the bottom so that it opens downwards.

49
Figure 29: Tailgate

GRILLE

A grille covers an opening in the body of a vehicle to allow air to enter or exit.

Figure 30: Grille

TAIL LGHT

Tail lights are the red lights that activate when the front headlights are turned on

Figure 31: Tail light

50
LEARNING UNIT 2 - SERVICE INTERIOR TRIM COMPONENTS

Learning Outcome 2.1: Check interior trim components

 Checking interior trim components

• Checking of structural damage using measuring tools and equipment.

• Electrical and mechanical trim component physical damage.
• Interior trim components damage.
• Damage to add-on accessories and modifications.
• Interior trim components may include: electrical and nonelectrical accessories
• Cleaning of components of vehicle to facilitate inspection, assessment, replacement, repair and/or
storage.
• A full front-end interior checking
• Checking of interior hood lining (or equivalent): components may include: Mechanical, electronics
and electronics plus other components such as:
o Steering
o Bolt-on panels and fittings.
o Seats and panels
o Interior lights
o Measuring and alignment
o Locate, read and interpret automobile manufacturers' data plates.

51
Learning Outcome 2.2: Select tools, materials and equipments

• Selection of Hand tools:

✓ Belt tensioners
✓ Files of all cross-sectional shapes and types
✓ Hacksaws
✓ Hammers
✓ Jigs and fixtures
✓ Multi grips
✓ Screwdrivers
✓ Sockets
✓ Spanners
✓ Vices and clamps
✓ Wrenches
• Selection of power tools:
✓ Cutting saws
✓ Electric or pneumatic/hydraulic drills or pedestal drills
✓ Grinders
✓ Jacking devices
✓ Sanders

Learning Outcome 2.3: Remove, repair and replace interior trim components

• Removing of interior trim components:

✓ Dash panels
✓ Seat belt assemblies
✓ Airbag components
✓ Door trims
• Inspection of interior trim components:
✓ Dash panels
✓ Seat belt assemblies
✓ Airbag components
✓ Door trims
• Repairing/replacement of interior trim components:
✓ Dash panels
✓ Seat belt assemblies
✓ Airbag components
✓ Door trims

52
Learning Outcome 2.4: Fit and verify interior trim components

• Fitting, straightening and aligning of:

✓ Roof rails/headers
✓ Roof panels.
• Fitting of other necessary trim interior components.
• Fitting or replacement window regulators, run channels, glass, power mechanism and related
controls.
• Fitting of all power-driven accessories and related controls
• Fit and adjust removable manually operated or electrically operated roof panels, hinges, latches,
guides, handles, retainers and controls of sunroof.
• Fitting air conditioner components
• Fitting and enable airbag system for vehicle service; verify indicator lamp operation
• Reinstallation of door panels.
• Installation of advanced glass systems (rain sensors, navigation, cameras, and collision avoidance
systems).
• Fitting and align deck lids, lid hinges and lid latches.
• Description of type and condition of finish; determine if refinishing is required.

Learning Outcome 2.6: Clean work area and maintain equipments

• Inspect/clean tools, materials and shop equipment; store/arrange tools and shop equipment; and
dispose waste/used lubricant.
• Principles of total quality management (tqm):5S
✓ Sorting: This includes identifying all the necessary items in the workplace, and removing all the
unnecessary ones.
✓ Setting in order, straightening: Once the necessary items are identified, they are labeled,
colour coded, and well organized in the right places.
✓ sweeping, shinning, systematic cleaning: This process involves the cleaning up of the
workplace thoroughly.
✓ Standardizing: This step makes sure that all the team members are trained on the above
three steps and know how to perform them with consistency.

✓ Sustaining: Here, a monitoring system is set up to observe that the organized and
standardized workplace is being continually maintained.

53
LEARNING UNIT 3 - SERVICE EXTERIOR TRIM COMPONENTS

Learning Outcome 3.1: Check exterior trim components

Non-electrical accessories; roof racks,

Weather shields, stone protectors, mud flaps, spoilers, bonnet scoops, non-SRS compliant protective bars

Including radiator support and skirt hardware plus Checking for water leaks, dust leaks, and wind noise

Door hinge condition, replace hinge pins and bushings as needed, check door frames, check and adjust door
clearances (where adjustable) along quarter panels, doors, rocker panels, fenders and tops.

Latch assemblies on all hinged components.

Learning Outcome 3.2: Select tools, materials and equipments

• Selection of Hand:

✓ Belt tensioners

✓ Files of all cross-sectional shapes and types

✓ Hacksaws

✓ Hammers

✓ Jigs and fixtures

✓ Multigrips

✓ Screwdrivers

✓ Sockets

✓ Spanners

✓ Vices and clamps

✓ Wrenches

• Selection of power tools:

54
✓ Cutting saws

✓ Electric or pneumatic/hydraulic drills or pedestal drills

✓ Grinders

✓ Jacking devices

✓ Sanders

Tools used in beating panel

Hammers

Auto body hammers are essential part of any auto tool kit where metal sheet work is required. They may look
like simple tools but require a certain measure of skill if they are to be used in the proper way. You may find it
easy to drive nails into a wall or wood with your regular hammer, however, this is not the case when it comes to
lumpy metal.

With an auto body hammer, it is possible to deliver accurate blows to the sheet metal. To begin with, it is
necessary to become familiar with the various types of auto body hammers in order to learn how to use them
properly.

Figure 32: Hammer

Spoons

55
Spoons are used for fender spring hammering, finishing and shaping.

Figure 33: Anvils

Figure 34: Spoon

Anvils

This is a hand tool that is used in Auto Car Body Collision Repair Shop. It could also be a Blacksmithing tool
used in a Blacksmith or Tinsmith shop for forming or shaping metal.

56
Dollies

A 'dolly' is the name given to a category of tools used in shaping sheet metal. In general, a dolly is a solid piece
of metal, small enough to hold in one hand, with a curved or shaped face. Generally a dolly will have more than
one surface, each with its own radius of curvature (much like a three-dimensional French curve), allowing the
craftsman more flexibility in using the tool.

Figure 35: Dollies

Planishing hammers

Planishing (from the Latin planus, "flat") is a metal working technique that involves finishing the surface by
finely shaping and smoothing sheet metal. This is done by hammering with a planishing panel hammer or
slapper file against a shaped surface called a planishing stake that is held in a vice or a mounting hole in a
blacksmith's beak anvil, or against hand-held, shaped, metal tools that are known as Dollies or Anvils. The
shape of the stake or dolly has to match the desired work piece contour, and so they come in a variety of
complex shapes.

Figure 36: Planishing hammer

57
Hacksaw blade

Hacksaw Blade. A hacksaw is a fine-tooth saw with a blade under tension in a frame, used for cutting materials
such as metal. Hand-held hacksaws consist of a metal frame with a handle, and pins for attaching a narrow
disposable blade. A screw or other mechanism is used to put the thin blade under tension.

Figure 37: Hacksaw blade

PERSONAL PROTECTIVE EQUIPMENT

Skin care (personal hygiene) systems

All employees should be aware of the importance of personal hygiene and should follow correct procedures to
clean and protect the skin in order to avoid irritants causing skin infections and dermatitis

Hand protection

Body technicians and painters are constantly handling substances which are harmful to health.

The harmful effect of liquids, chemicals and materials on the hands can be prevented in many cases, by wearing
the correct type of gloves.

58
Protective clothing

Protective clothing is worn to protect the worker and his clothes coming into contact with dirt, extremes of
temperature, falling objects and chemical substances.

Protective clothing worn in the paint shop by the spray painters should be either good quality washable nylon
garments, anti-static, and complete with hood, elasticized wrists and ankles or low - lining disposable
coveralls, which offer a liquid barrier protection from splashes, airborne dusts and paint over spray.

Figure 38: Protective clothes

59
Head protection

Head protection is very important to the body worker when working underneath a vehicle or under its bonnet
while it is being repaired .

A light safety helmet normally made from aluminum, fibre grass or plastic, should be

worn if there is any danger from falling objects, and will protect the head from damage when working below
vehicles.

Figure 39: Head protection

Eye and face protection

Eye protection is required where there is a possibility of eye injury from flying particles when using a grinder,
disc sander, power drill or pneumatic chisel, or when removing glass windscreens or working under Neath
vehicles.

The following types of eye protection are available:

Light-weight safety spectacles

General-purpose safety goggles

Face shields

welding helmet or welding goggles

60
Figure 40: Eye protection

Foot protection

Safety footwear is essential in the body shop environment boots or shoes with steel toe caps will protect the toes
from falling object. Rubber boots will give protection from acids or wet conditions. Never wear defective
footwear as this becomes a hazard in any workshop environment.

61
Figure 41: Foot protection

Respiratory protection (Lungs)

Respirators are usually needed in body repair shops even though adequate ventilation is provided for the
working areas. Respirators give protection against abrasive dusts, gases, vapors from caustic solution and
solvents, and spray mist from undercoats and finishing paint.

There are four primary types of respirator available to protect body shop technicians:

Dust respirators (masks)

Cartridge filter mask

Powered respirators

Constant-flow airline breathing apparatus

Figure 42: Lung protection

62
Ear protection

In every case where is a risk of significant exposure to noise, assessment must be carried out and action taken to
minimize hearing damage. Employers must designate ear protection zones and require all who enter these zones
to wear ear protection.

Figure 43: Ear protection

Learning Outcome 3.3: Remove, Repair And Replace Exterior Trim

Components

REPAIR AUTOMOTIVE DENT

“DENT “is a small hollow mark in the surface of a vehicle body, caused by pressure or by being hit.

Straightening

Sheet metal is much easier than it appears to be. With modern equipment and tools, the work can be preceded in
a short time by practicing on a junked fender, door, or panels. The easy and speed with which sheet metal can
be straightened is largely dependent on starting the repair work in the right way. When done correctly, the
amount of dinging is reduced, also, the amount of hand filing and sanding will be reduced.

63
 Figure 44: Vehicle body straightening

When straightening a winkled panel, the damage should be removed in the reverse of the order in which it was
made. When a collision occurs, there will be a major depression in the panel, followed by a buckled area and a
series of bridges. Without a proper instruction, a technician will apply pressure at the sport where the panel was
struck first and where it is depressed the most.

The correct method is to apply pressure at the ridge farthest from the point where the body was struck first.
When this is done, the entire damaged area will spring back into its original position.

To make the procedure clear, assume that the original form of the panel is shown at A in Figure 15. Point B is
where it was struck, and point C is a ridge that was formed last. As indicated, start straightening process at point
C. Place a spoon (Figure2) on top of ridge and strike it with a mallet or hammer

64
Follow the ridge with the spoon and mallet, and you will find that as the ridge is removed, the major depression
at B will also spring back and conform very closely to the original contour of the panel.

Using pull rods and slide hammers

When removing dents and creases from body panels, a great deal of time is often needed to remove inside trim.
Also, the work is complicated when the damage is located in doors and rear trunk lids. In these areas, metal
braces and other structural members make it hard to use the dolly and hammer method.

On many jobs, the use of pull rods and /or slide hammers make it unnecessary to remove inside trim since the
work is done entirely from the outside of the damaged panel.

The procedure is to drill a series of 9/64”(3mm) holes in the deepest part of the crease.

This hole should be ¼(6mm) apart, then inserting the hooked ends of the pull rods in the holes and pulled out on
the handles, (Fig. 16) or by screwing the slide hammer into each hole and pulled out with a slide hammer until
the damaged panel is aligned with the original contour.

These days pull rod and slide hammer are replaced by a developed machine called Spots welder

Figure 45: using of slide hammer

Learning Outcome 3.4: Fit and verify exterior trim components

Fitting and aligning of roof rails/headers, roof panels and damaged outside trim and moldings.

Identification of procedures to fitting all stationary glass (including windshield, back lights, using
manufacturers’ recommended installation materials and procedures including electrically heated glass.

65
Fitting, adjustment or replacement window run channels, glass, door handles, and retainers, removable
manually operated or electrically operated roof panels, hinges, latches, guides, retainers and controls of sun
roof.

Removal, replace and Fit and align damaged, non-structural body panels and components that may interfere
with or be damaged during repairs including: plastics and other parts that are recommended for off-car repair,
moldings, bolted panels, panels assembly, align hoods, hood hinges and hood latches.

Fitting of and align doors, tailgates, and hatches, lift gates and hinges.

Fitting of bumpers, emblems, reinforcements, guards, isolators and special lightings and indicators

Step 1

First, you always want to prepare your surface. This means the vehicle needs to be completely clean - free of
bugs, grime, dirt, wax, or any other substance that might keep the putty from sticking. This might mean a simple
clean with soap and water, or a wipe down with residue or adhesive remover.

It also means that dents should be taken out, and rust and scratches should be sanded. Paint around the damaged
area should also receive a good sanding, since the filler doesn't stick well to paint, wet, or humid surfaces.

Step 2

Mix your filler (follow the instructions on your filler product) so that the hardener is completely introduced-
producing a touch of pink in the mix. You can do this with your spreader and mixing board.

With a good mix in your hand, you can use your spreader to coat the damaged area completely, while avoiding
over filling. Make sure this first layer is applied firmly so it adheres well to the surface.

You'll want to fill the damage, but also extend the putty outwards to the surrounding area so that when it dries,
and you sand it out, you'll have a seamless transition.

(If you need to use shaping tools, this is the time to do it- while the putty is beginning to harden but isn't yet
dry.)

Let dry completely (20-30 minutes).

Step 3

Now you'll need to smooth out the filler by sanding. Grab a sanding block with an 80-grit abrasive sheet and
begin smoothing out the completely dry filler.

66
If you find that you've over-sanded and now have a low spot, you may need to reapply a layer of filler and wait
until it dries before continuing.

You want to sand until the surface of the putty is smooth and level with the rest of the body. Make sure that you
featheredge around the rim of the damage so that it blends into the surrounding area seamlessly. This may
require a finer grit (180 grit), as you featheredge, which will help to remove any scratch lines.

Step 4

Once you've ensured that the surface is smooth and you've effectively leveled out the damage to be even with
the rest of the body, you can apply primer, topcoat, and clear coat.

After a dent has been lifted to the original contour and the paint has been removed from the dent and the
surrounding area, body filler is applied.

First, check the metal where the filler will be applied and remove any dirt, grease, and rust from the surface.

Mix the filler with correct amount of hardener until it becomes one color

Apply the mixture to the panel using a plastic spreader. Filler should not be thicker than 1/8” or it will crack
when dry.

Make sure that a car has been at room temperature (70 of) for 24 hours after applying filler. An infrared lamp
should be also used in humid days. Direct the lamp toward the panel at a distance of three feet.

Mixing a body filler with hardener on a pallet

67
Figure 46: Mixing Filler with hardener

Applying filler to the dented portion of the panel

Figure 47: Application of mixture to the panel

After the filler has dried, shape it to the contour of the body by using special file

SANDING

68
Figure 48: Sanding process

AFTER BODY FILLER APPLY PUTTY

To begin we should clean the surface of the old wallpaper, paint, and other contaminants.

Puttying does not provide a firm grip of the adhesive coating layer to the substrate, so usually, they are applied
over a layer of primer. For leveling and application of dense fillers use plastic or metal spatula. If the surface
has a complex relief or a small area (e.g., frames or sashes), then the best decision is to use the solid rubber strip
of the required width. And if filler [of putty] is diluted with a small amount of solution, then it can be applied by
pneumatic spraying.

Next, we put the starting filler (spackling paste) layer of 5-7 millimeters. If the surface is badly uneven, you can
reinforce it with special plastic mesh. Take a thin layer of primer on a spatula and spread it evenly over the
surface. The pressure on the blade of the spatula can help smooth the putty smears to a very thin layer in a
horizontal or vertical direction.

Large cracks and other irregularities must be puttied in the first place. And you can use the corner spatula (a
convenient instrument for such cases) for the sealing of the corners.

Now we are waiting for the surface to dry (24 hours’ maximum). Do not apply a new layer on the wet surface.

Then the putty area must be cleanly sandpapered and primed again. After all, if you do not use a primer in
subsequent layers, it will complicate further work. Because otherwise the material dries and thickens much
faster, therefore it will be problematic to smooth it to a thin layer and level.

The application of putty should be made of several layers for better results. But change the direction of the
material from layer to layer each time. When working with joints, riveted, and welded holes it is necessary to
apply several layers of putty. Meanwhile, necessarily watch the thickness according to recommended by the
manufacturer. The finish coat should be applied in a layer of 2 millimeters.

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Each layer of putty must be processed with sandpaper. For this is usually used sandpaper (often 150th), which is
folded of several creases and wound around the stick or hold in your hand. You can sand both wet and dry
surfaces. The first method is more suitable for lacquer, semi-oil, and oil fillers. The second is for the gluing
ones (they are washed away by water). Material consumption depends on the type and kind of surface, applying
method, the thickness of the layer, and filler itself.

PAINT A CAR PANEL

Car panels will become dented, scratched, faded or rusted, and sometimes require removal to be repainted
properly. Varying types of paint and additives have been used by manufacturers over the years, and some cars
only a few years old can become badly damaged by the elements. The average backyard mechanic will spend
about two hours painting a car panel, depending on the size.

Remove the panel from the vehicle if possible, and remove any trim pieces or plastic lights from the panel. This
will involve unbolting the panel from the body, and uncoupling any connections to the electrical system. Scrape
or peel the trim away from the panel; some older models will have screws holding the trim in place. The dents
and problems with the panel should be repaired before painting begins.

Sand the panel to remove the old paint.

Set the panel on a firm stand, and protect the walls and floor from overspray. You can lay down newspaper and
tape it to any surface to prevent paint from sticking to it.

Spray two coats of primer onto the panel, in even strokes. Going too fast will leave gaps, and going too slow
will cause dripping. The primer should be placed onto any part of the panel that is getting painted, as it will not
only protect the metal but allow a better coating of finish paint to adhere to the panel. The light color of the
primer will also give a better hue to lighter-colored paint. Allow the first coat to dry, and then apply the second
coat. The two coats are used to ensure complete coverage.

Spray the desired coats of colored paint to the panel. The more coats applied, the deeper and thicker the paint
will be Painted, as it will not only protect the metal but allow a better coating of finish paint to adhere to the
panel. The light color of the primer will also give a better hue to lighter-colored paint. Allow the first coat to
dry, then apply the second coat. The two coats are used to ensure complete coverage.

Spray the desired coats of colored paint to the panel. The more coats applied, the deeper and thicker the paint
will be and will resist scratches and last longer. Allow the last coat to dry before spraying the next coat.

Spray the final glossy paint onto the panel. Usually one coat of this type of paint is adequate to seal the previous
coats, and give a richer shine than paint alone. Allow up to 24 hours for the panel's paint to "cure," preferably
not in direct sunlight.

Refit the panel on the car. Bolt the body connectors, then fix the plastic lights, trim and electrical connector

SPRAY GUN

Operation
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Please note that many variables affect the adjustment of a paint gun such as paint viscosity and type,
atmospheric conditions and operator preference. The following are some guidelines to get started but some time
spent acquiring the “feel” of the gun and test spraying on sheets of masking paper are recommended before
applying paint to your car. Always “tune” the gun before each use as conditions may not be the same as the
previous use.

Figure 49: Spray gun

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The “Fan” control knob (smaller blue knob at the top rear of gun) is opened by turning in a counter-clockwise
direction. This controls the size of the spray pattern or “fan” and the droplet size. Out with the knob = larger
pattern/larger droplet size, in = smaller pattern/smaller droplet size.

The “Fluid Needle” control knob (larger blue knob, below the fan control) is opened by turning in a counter-
clockwise direction. This controls the amount of paint flow to the nozzle. Out with the knob = more paint, less
atomization, in = less paint.

The “Air Valve” control knob (small blue knob at the bottom of the gun near the air inlet) is opened by turning
in a counter-clockwise direction. This is a “fine tuning” for air flow in the gun. You generally want to start out
fully open and decrease air as needed.

With practice you will quickly acquire a “feel” for the gun and will be producing professional results.

MAINTENANCE AND CLEANING

NOTE: It is extremely important that the gun be disassembled and cleaned after every use!

 Pour out then wipe out any remaining paint in the cup, fill the cup with water (for water borne paints) or
solvent (for solvent based paints) and spray in a safe area until the spray is clear.

 Remove the Cup.

Remove the Fluid Control Knob (lower blue knob at the rear of gun) fully by turning in a counter-clockwise
direction.

Remove the spring with the fluid knob and pull the needle out from the rear of the gun.

 Remove the Air Cap.

 Remove the Nozzle by unthreading with the #13 hex in the included wrench.

 Inspect the internal passages of the gun for any remaining traces of paint and using the included brush and
water (for water borne paints) or solvent (for solvent based paints), clean out the passages and rinse.

 Blow out any remaining water or solvent and reassemble the gun in the following order:

 Thread the Nozzle into its bore and snug in place with the #13 hex of the included wrench.

 Slide the needle back into place.

 Slide the spring over the end of needle and thread the knob on.

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 Lastly, thread the Air Cap onto the end of the gun keeping the air horns in the horizontal plane.

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REFERENCES
1. Livesey and A. Robinson, The repair of vehicle bodies: Routledge, 2013.
2. J. E. Duffy, Auto body repair technology: Cengage Learning, 2014.
3. T. Gilles, Automotive service: inspection, maintenance, repairs: Cengage Learning, 2012.
4. Thomas and M. Jund, Collision repair and refinishing: a foundation course for technicians: Cengage
Learning, 2013. 1446| Page Skills for a better destiny
5. M. A. Omar, The automotive body manufacturing systems and processes: John Wiley & Sons, 2011.
6. K. Ellis, "How To Install Automotive Mobile Electronic Systems," ed: reed business information 360 park
avenue south, new york, ny 10010 usa, 2010.
7. M. Peel, T. Matano, and T. Pilsbury, Designing Car Interiors: Volume 1 - Looking Back and Sketch
Techniques: Independently Published, 2018.

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