Untitled

CONTENTS
HISTORY OF ‘DESIGN YOUR OWN OVERALLS’................................................................................ 3
GETTING STARTED .............................................................................................................................. 4
SIZING .................................................................................................................................................... 5
HOW TO ................................................................................................................................................. 6
CREATE YOUR PATTERN PIECES ....................................................................................................... 7
CUT OUT YOUR FABRIC ...................................................................................................................... 9
BACK POCKETS ................................................................................................................................... 10
BODICE ................................................................................................................................................ 14
STRAPS................................................................................................................................................. 17
PANTS CENTRE SEAM ........................................................................................................................ 21
SIDE POCKETS .................................................................................................................................... 22
FRONT PANTS ..................................................................................................................................... 24
BACK PANTS ........................................................................................................................................ 28
SIDE SEAMS ........................................................................................................................................ 33
CUFF ..................................................................................................................................................... 38
CUFF (ALTERNATE) ............................................................................................................................ 42
HEM ...................................................................................................................................................... 45
TECHNIQUES ....................................................................................................................................... 51
Gathering ......................................................................................................................................... 51
Rolled Hem ...................................................................................................................................... 52
INSPIRATION PAGE ........................................................................................................................... 53
Page | 2
© BOO! Designs 2013
THANKS FROM BOO!
Thank you for purchasing a BOO! Designs sewing pattern.
This is a tutorial style pattern with step by step instructions and photos to help you along
the way. It is designed for intermediate through to experienced sewers. However,
confident beginners should have a go and enhance their knowledge and skills.
HISTORY OF ‘DESIGN YOUR OWN OVERALLS’

The ‘Design Your Own’
patterns are designed to give
you options and encourage
you to think outside the square
and extend the pattern
yourself to make something
fabulous. This is designed to
be an all season’s pattern. A
shirt can be worn underneath
in winter or it can be worn
alone in summer.
The pattern includes 2 length

variations which can be
finished with either hem,
elastic or cuff, 2 back pocket
options, in seam pocket option
and either straight or ruffle
straps.
I hope you enjoy designing

your own Overalls!
© BOO! Designs: CONDITIONS OF SALE & COPYRIGHT

This pattern is for single user personal use ONLY and is not to be reproduced or shared in
any way. Additional parties wishing to use this pattern must purchase their own. Small
sew-from-home businesses selling items on Facebook, ETSY or similar may sell products
made from this pattern, but must reference the pattern author in product descriptions, e.g.
“This garment was made using a BOO! Designs pattern”. I would love to see your items
made from my pattern and welcome them to my email boodesigns@bigpond.com.
Join my pattern making group on Facebook to share your photos ‘BOO! Designs
Pattern Club’. www.facebook.com/groups/boodesignspatternclub
Page | 3
GETTING STARTED
What you need to get started
printer air erasable marker (or tailor’s chalk)

sewing machine iron and ironing board
thread to match selected fabrics cutting mat (recommended)
ruler rotary cutter (recommended)
scissors medium weight interfacing (optional)
pins overlocker/serger (optional)
bodkin/safety pin for threading elastic Fray Stopper (optional)
buttonhole cutter/unpicker SEWLINE glue stick (optional)
Fabric & Notions
2 x size 30 (19mm) buttons (or larger according to your preference)

25cm light-medium weight interfacing (whisper weft if available)
Elastic
Centimetres Inches
2 3 4 5 6 2 3 4 5 6
1” (2.5cm) non-roll elastic for
25.5 26 27 28 29 10.25 10.25 10.75 11.25 11.5
waistband
3/8" (1cm) woven elastic for leg
32 34 36 38 40 12.75 13.5 14.25 15 15.75
(optional)
3/8" (1cm) woven elastic for ankle
16.5 18 18.5 19 19.5 6.5 7 7.25 7.5 7.75
(optional)
Fabric
This will give you a rough guide to the requirements for the pattern. Measurements are
based on 44” (112cm) wide fabric. You may require more fabric if you are using single
direction fabric or for pattern matching.
Style Yards Metres

2 3 4 5 6 2 3 4 5 6
Short 1 1.25 1 1.25
Long 1.5 1.75 1.5 1.75
Recommended fabrics: Cotton, Drill, Linen, Denim, Light weight cord
Page | 4
SIZING
What size should I make?
The following is a table of girl’s body measurements to help you choose the correct size.
Centimetres 2 3 4 5 6
Height 92 98 104 110 116
Waist 51 52 54 56 58
Hip 54 56 59 62 65
Inches 2 3 4 5 6
Height 36.25 38.75 41 43.5 45.75
Waist 20.25 20.5 21.5 22.25 23
Hip 21.5 22.25 23.25 24.5 25.75
Finished Lengths
The following table contains approximate finished lengths from shoulder to hem.
Centimetres 2 3 4 5 6
Shorts 49 51.5 54.5 57.5 60
Overalls 76 81 86.5 92 97.5
Inches 2 3 4 5 6
Shorts 19.25 20.5 21.5 22.5 23.75
Overalls 30 32 34.25 36.25 38.5
Page | 5
HOW TO
1. Save your pattern
2. PLEASE READ THE ENTIRE PATTERN BEFORE YOU START!!
3. Print out the pattern pieces
4. Choose your length
 shorts
 overalls (ankle)
5. Choose your leg finish
 hem
 elastic
 cuff
6. Choose your straps
 regular
 ruffle
7. Choose your pockets
 Back
• heart
• traditional
• none
 Side
• inseam
• none
8. Choose your size 2-6
9. Cut pattern pieces based on your selected options
10. Follow instructions to create your overalls
GET CREATIVE! Put your own spin on it. Here are a few suggestions:
• Look online for some tutorials for other fun pockets and add your own back
pocket ideas
• Add lace or ruffle detail to the straps, around the bodice or hem
• Buttons, applique or embroidery could be added to the bodice
• Make a smaller version of the back pocket to add to the bodice
• Swap the pants for a full skirt to make a fun party dress
Page | 6
CREATE YOUR PATTERN PIECES
Print out the pattern pieces (pages 54-71). Set scaling to NONE and make sure the
pattern pieces are NOT shrunk to fit the page.
Page 16 of the pattern pieces has a 1 inch (2.54cm) test square that you can use to
ensure your pattern is printed to the correct size.
Using the diagram below to lay out your pattern pieces in the correct sequence.
Page | 7
Trim off the right hand side and bottom of each page along the marked border. An
easy way to cut the edges (if you don’t have a paper cutter), is to use a rotary cutter
and mat to ensure you get a nice straight edge.
TIP: Keep your old blunt rotary cutter blades for pattern cutting.
Stick pattern pieces together with sticky tape carefully lining the pages up along the
borders. I hate sticking pages together so have laid out the pattern in a way that
has minimal overlaps. The diagram below shows the recommended layout.
Trace each pattern piece and cut them for the size you wish to make, the same as
you would with a traditional paper pattern.
Page | 8
CUT OUT YOUR FABRIC
The fastest, easiest way to cut out the fabric is using a mat and rotary cutter. If you
don’t have these, then a pair of scissors is fine!
TIP: Traditionally, you pin your pattern pieces to your fabric when cutting
to stop them moving.
I cut my pieces out with a rotary cutter and use my large ruler to hold the
pattern pieces in place so I don’t need to use pins.
Pattern weights can also be used and are easy to make yourself. Cut 3”x3”
squares and with right sides together sew around 3 of the sides, turn right
side out, fill with rice and hand stitch the opening closed!
With the ‘Design Your Own’ patterns, it is difficult to give recommended layout,
because of the options available. Once you know what pattern pieces and fabrics
you are using lay them out on your fabric to figure out the best placement for
minimal wastage.
TIP: When you need to cut 2 of a pattern piece, ensure your fabric is
folded to reduce the number of cuts and for mirror image cuts for pants,
ruffles and side pockets.
Here is a quick guide to make sure you have all the pattern pieces you need before
you start.
Required Pattern Pieces Optional Pattern Pieces

Back Pants x 2 (mirror image) Ruffle x 2 (mirror image)
Front Pants x 2 (mirror image) Cuff x 2
Bodice x 2 Side Pocket x 4 (2 mirror image)
Back Waistband x 2 Pocket (heart) x 4, or
Front Waistband x 2 Pocket (regular) x 4
Strap x 2
Let’s get started!
Page | 9
BACK POCKETS
If you are not putting back pockets on your overalls, skip to the next section.
1. For heart pockets, transfer the stitch placement markings with an air erasable
marker from the pattern piece onto the right side of your pockets.
2. Place 2 pocket pieces right sides together and sew with a 3/8” (1cm) seam leaving
an opening of around 1.5” (3.75cm) along the bottom side edge.
3. Clip the corners as shown below.
For heart pockets, snip from the raw edge into the seam about 3/8” (1cm) apart. Be
careful not to clip the stitching.
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4. Turn pockets by pulling fabric through the opening, then use a chopstick or turning
tool to push out the corners/curves.
5. Use your thumb to press the seam and then iron flat.
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6. Sew around the top of the heart pocket between stitch placement marks.
A twin stitch as shown will give the most secure pocket (when attaching pocket to
the pants in the next step), but as the pockets are mostly cosmetic, a single stitch
would also be fine.
7. Cut small triangles out of the 2 top corners and bottom point on the back pants
pattern piece, then use an air erasable marker to mark the pocket placement on the
back pants pieces.
Page | 12
8. Position pocket on the bottom pocket placement mark and evenly between the top
pocket placement marks and pin into place.
9. Starting from the stitch placement mark (heart) or top corner (traditional) on one
side of the pocket, sew down the side, along the bottom edges and up to the
placement mark on the other side of the pocket. Reinforce the ends with back
stitching. If doing a twin stitch for extra strength, sew back to your starting position
approx. ¼” (0.7cm) from the first row of stitching.
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BODICE
1. Iron interfacing onto the bodice front.
TIP: I find the best technique is to place the interfacing with the sticky/scratchy side
up and fabric on top. Ensure steam is turned off on the iron, start from the middle
and iron towards the edge, go back to the middle and iron towards the other edge.
Whisper weft (sort of looks like a bandage) is more expensive but much easier to
work with as it holds its shape and doesn’t tend to stretch too much.
2. Transfer buttonhole markings from the pattern piece to the front bodice piece. An
easy way to do this is to cut along the lines on the pattern piece and then use an air
erasable marker directly through the cut holes.
3. Place bodice pieces right sides together and sew around the sides and top with a
3/8” (1cm) seam, leaving the bottom curved piece open. Clip the top and bottom
corners as shown.
4. Turn right sides out and use your chopstick or turning tool to gently push out the
corners and firmly press with the iron.
TIP: Line the edges up with the chopstick and run your finger along the
edge of the chopstick to press the seam out. It will make it much easier
when it comes to ironing it.
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TIP: If you want to top stitch around the edge, do it now! I have learnt
that not everything needs to be top stitched. It took a while to realise
that, but with some assembly, items just don’t need it and can actually
look better without it.
Let’s do the buttonholes! Don’t be scared! The reason, I do them now is that we
haven’t done too much work yet. If you make a mistake or the buttonhole is just not
working, you can just scrap it and start again. Interfacing the bodice is really
important for the buttonholes, it stabilises the fabric, stops any stretching and if you
give the bodice a really good iron before you start you will have a flat surface to work
to get the best results.
5. Attach your buttonhole foot to your machine. Consult your sewing machine guide
for an overview of the stitch settings for buttonholes.
6. With bodice right side up and top of the bodice facing you. Wind needle down and
check that the starting position is in line with the top of your buttonhole marking,
use the line you have marked as a guide to making sure you get a neat buttonhole.
I like to use my left hand to gently lift up the fabric at the back to keep it horizontal
and ensure I don’t get any snags anywhere!
7. You should now have a buttonhole. Repeat for the other side.
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8. [OPTIONAL] Apply a small amount of fray stopper inside the buttonhole and set
aside to dry. This will help give you a great finish.
9. Use a buttonhole cutter to neatly cut your buttonhole.
If you don’t have a buttonhole cutter, use an unpicker or clippers and starting from
one end and cut to the middle, go to the other end and cut to the middle to ensure
you don’t cut right through the end of the buttonhole (tip courtesy of year 8 Home
Ec)!
Page | 16
STRAPS
1. Fold straps in half by joining the 2 longest edges together and press.
2. Open out the strap, fold both raw edges into the middle to meet and press.
3. Fold the 2 folded edges to meet and press.
4. Open out the strap and fold in the short edge on one end by approx. ¼” (0.7cm)
and press.
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5. Reform the original folds and press.
If you are not putting ruffles on your straps, skip to step 11
6. Cut a strip ¾” (2cm) off the top long edge of one strap and the bottom long edge of
the other strap.
7. Line the raw end of the strap up with the strap pattern piece and mark the ruffle
placement position on the edge that you cut in the previous step.
Page | 18
8. Finish the curved edge of the ruffle with a rolled hem.
TIP: An alternative to finishing with a rolled hem (especially if you don’t have
an overlocker) would be to create lined ruffles. Cut another 2 ruffles
according to the pattern pieces and place 2 ruffles together with right sides
facing. Sew a seam around the curved edge, clip to the seam, turn and press.
9. Gather along the straight edge of the ruffle with your preferred gathering technique
and adjust the gathers so that the ruffle is the same length as the ruffle position
marks made on the strap and pin into place. The strap and ruffle should both be
right side up and the skinny end of the ruffle should be facing towards the raw end
of the strap. Each ruffle will only fit one strap, so if the ruffle can’t be positioned this
way, it belongs to the other strap!
Page | 19
10. Stitch ruffle to the strap with a 3/8” (1cm) seam and then fold the 2 strap edges
towards the middle as pictured.
11. Fold the 2 folded edges to meet and pin together. Top stitch around the edge of
your straps starting and finishing at the raw edge.
12. From the raw edge, measure ¾” (2cm) along the open edge (the edge with the
ruffle if you have added ruffles) and cut to the corner on the other side of the strap.
Page | 20
PANTS CENTRE SEAM
1. Place both front pieces together with right sides facing (line up notches if you have
marked them). Stitch with a 3/8” (1cm) seam and then finish with overlocking or
zig-zag stitch.
2. Repeat for back pants pieces.
Page | 21
SIDE POCKETS
If you are not adding side pockets to your overalls, skip to the next section.
1. Overlock or zig-zag stitch around the curve of each side pocket piece (you will have
4 separate pocket pieces when you have finished).
2. Place a mark 1” (2.5cm) from the top of the front and back pants pieces on the side
seam. Place top of pocket on pocket placement mark with right sides facing and pin.
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3. Stitch pocket to side of pants with a 1/2” (1.25cm) seam. Overlock or zig-zag stitch
the entire length of the side seams of front and back pants.
TIP: When overlocking the side seams have the right side of the fabric facing
down so when the pants are finished overlocking is facing the right direction.
Page | 23
FRONT PANTS
1. [OPTIONAL] Apply interfacing onto the front waistband.
2. Gather pants front to be the same length as front waistband using your preferred
gathering technique.
NOTE: If you don’t have side pockets, your side seams will not be overlocked yet!
3. Fold front waistband in half to mark centre front (I usually just press firmly on the
fold to mark the position), then line centre front up with the pants centre front seam.
Page | 24
4. Sew front waistband to front pants with a 3/8” (1cm) seam (I haven’t actually
overlocked the top edge of this, there is no need as it will be concealed, I have just
used the overlocker to gather my pants piece).
5. Iron up waistband with seams facing towards the top. Gently pull away the
waistband from the pants pressing the seam as you go ensuring a neat finish. If you
have a pocket, iron the pocket to face out.
6. Fold front pants in half to mark centre front at the top of the waistband. Fold bodice
in half to mark centre front at the bottom of the bodice. Match centre fronts with
right sides together and pin into place.
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7. Stitch or baste bodice to waistband using a ¼” (0.7cm) seam.
8. Fold up one edge of the front inside waistband ¼” (0.7cm) and press.
9. Align the tops of both front waistband pieces and stitch with a 3/8” (1cm) seam.
The bodice should be sandwiched between the 2 front waistband pieces.
Page | 26
10. Position the front pants right side down and press the inside front waistband towards
the bottom. Apply a bit of pressure to pull the pants away from the bodice in this
step because the bodice is curved. As you are pulling, use the iron to press the
waistband away from the bodice for a neat finish. Turn the pants over and press the
front side as well to ensure the seam is neat.
Page | 27
BACK PANTS
1. Align back waistband and pants top with right sides together and stitch with a 3/8”
(1cm) seam. Fold waistband up and press into place. The seam should be ironed
towards the top.
2. Transfer the strap placement position from the pattern piece to the back waistband.
With straps facing down, position the cut edge of the strap on the placement mark
and pin or baste into place. Before basting, ensure that straps are positioned
on the outside of the placement mark and if you have ruffles they are
facing down and outwards.
Page | 28
3. Fold up one edge of the back inside waistband ¼” (0.7cm) and press
4. Align the tops of the back waistband pieces and stitch with a 3/8” (1cm) seam. The
straps should be sandwiched between the 2 back waistband pieces.
5. Fold out the inside of the back waistband and press.
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Page | 30
6. Turn pants over and fold down the inside back waistband as shown and press.
7. Top stitch along the top of the back pants waistband close to the edge and stitch the
back casing closed just above the seam.
8. Cut your elastic to size, thread through the back casing you have just created and
secure each edge with stitching.
Centimetres Inches
2 3 4 5 6 2 3 4 5 6
25.5 26 27 28 29 10.25 10.25 10.75 11.25 11.5
Page | 31
TIP: Bodkin’s are popular for threading elastic. I am not a massive fan and
go old school with my safety pin. If you are using safety pin, don’t use the
quilting ones, they are not study and bend easily so will open up in the
middle of your casing.
9. Don’t distribute the elastic yet, you want it bulked up in the middle as much as
possible for the next steps.
Page | 32
SIDE SEAMS
1. Place front pants piece right side up and bodice facing down. The inside front
waistband should be positioned above the bodice.
2. Place back pants right side down on top of front pants. The top of the back
waistband should be aligned with the top of the outside front waistband. The piece
at the top is the inside front waistband.
Page | 33
3. Now fold the inside front waistband down over the top of the back waistband
(elastic) and pin into place.
4. Repeat other side.
5. The back waistband will be sandwiched between the front waistband inside and
outside pieces.
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6. Pin down the side seams and around the pockets (if you have added pockets).
7. Sew down the side seam and around the pocket.
If you have pockets, line the side seam up with pocket attachment seam sewn
earlier. Starting at the top, sew to 3/8” (1cm) past the pocket, continue around the
pocket and down the rest of the leg. Don’t sew through the pocket!
8. Clip the corner.
9. If you have not added pockets, overlock or zig-zag stitch the side seams to finish.
Page | 35
10. Turn waistband into position by lifting the front inside waistband and pulling the back
waistband out.
11. The inside of the overalls will look like this.
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12. Top stitch the top of the front waistband aligning with the back waistband top
stitching.
Pin waistband in place with pins positioned vertically (so that you can sew over
them). Optionally use SEWLINE sewing glue instead of pins.
Top stitch the bottom of the waistband on the right side of the overalls aligning with
back waistband top stitching.
Page | 37
CUFF
If you are not adding a cuff to your overalls, skip to the next section.
1. Fold leg cuff in half along the short edge, then fold down one of the long edges by
¼” (0.7cm) and press.
2. With right sides together, join the short edges of the cuff with a 3/8” (1cm) seam to
create a tube. Open out the fold that you made when pressing the cuff when sewing
the seam. Press the seam open.
3. Transfer the gathering positions from the pattern pieces to your leg pieces.
Page | 38
4. Gather between the gather placement marks using the sewing machine gathering
technique.
5. Tie the 2 rows together on the bobbin side at one end of the gather.
6. Align the front and back pants together with right sides facing and pin the inside leg
starting from the centre seam.
7. Stitch along the inside leg seam with a 3/8” (1cm) seam and finish with overlocking
or zig-zag stitch.
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8. Align the inside leg seam with the cuff seam. The right side of the cuff faces the
wrong side of the pants. The cuff edge that you want to align is the one without the
fold.
Adjust gathering by pulling on the bobbin threads of the end that you didn’t tie off
until the pants leg diameter is the same size as the cuff and pin into place.
9. Sew the cuff to the pants with a 3/8” (1cm) seam. Pants should be right side out so
the gather is on top to ensure you don’t get folds in your gathering while you sew.
10. Fold the cuff down and press away from the pants leg on the seam. Be careful in
this step to avoid ironing over the previous folds that you have created.
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11. Fold cuff into place so that the seam on the front of the pants is concealed, pin into
place then sew with a seam close to the edge of the fold.
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CUFF (ALTERNATE)
It can be a little tricky to sew the cuff, especially around the bottom of the leg’s
when doing full length overalls. You could try this alternate method to make it a
little easier.
1. Complete cuff step 1
2. Complete cuff steps 3-5
3. The right side of the cuff faces the wrong side of the pants. The cuff edge that you
want to align is the one without the fold.
Adjust gathers on the pants by pulling on the bobbin threads of the end that you
didn’t tie off and evenly distribute the gathers until your pants leg width is the same
as the cuff width and then pin into place. Place a mark approx. 2.5” (6.25cm) from
the side seam on either end of the cuff. Sew with a 3/8” (1cm) seam between the 2
marks.
4. Fold the cuff down and press away from the pants leg on the seam. Be careful in
this step to avoid ironing over the previous folds that you have created.
Page | 42
5. Fold cuff into place so that the seam on the front of the pants is concealed.
6. Repeat for other leg.
7. Complete cuff steps 6-7
8. Push the pant leg to the middle away from the cuff, so that you can pin down the
edge of the cuff and sew with a 3/8” (1cm) seam.
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9. Pin completed cuff to the pants leg and finish the seam.
10. Complete cuff step 11
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HEM
1. Fold hem up approx. 1 3/8” (3.5cm) and press.
2. Open out hem and fold the finished edge into the crease you have just created.
Refold original fold and press so the raw edge is concealed.
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3. Align the front and back pants together with right sides facing and pin the inside leg
starting from the centre seam.
4. Fold out the hem that was pressed into position in the previous step and stitch along
the inside leg seam with a 3/8” (1cm) seam and finish with overlocking or zig-zag
stitch.
Page | 46
5. Fold hem into position and pin.
TIP: When sewing the ankle hem, it may not be possible to fit the leg over the
free-arm, an alternative is to turn the pants so they are facing right way out
and stitch the hem as shown below.
6. If you are insert elastic, leave an opening of approx. 1.5” (3.75cm), otherwise just
finish the seam.
If you are not inserting elastic, you are finished!
Page | 47
7. Cut elastic to size.
Centimetres Inches
2 3 4 5 6 2 3 4 5 6
Leg 32 34 36 38 40 12.75 13.5 14.25 15 15.75
Ankle 16.5 18 18.5 19 19.5 6.5 7 7.25 7.5 7.75
8. Place a dot on either end of the elastic, so that you know your elastic is not twisted
once threaded.
9. Thread your elastic and then use a pin to secure the elastic with a small overlap.
10. Zig-zag stitch over the elastic. Leave the pin in place and sew the first couple
stitches over the pin before removing so the elastic doesn’t slip.
Page | 48
11. Stretch the leg so the elastic pops inside and stitch the opening closed.
Page | 49
BUTTON
If you have the little person handy that you are making for, try the overalls on to establish
the perfect placement for the button. Button placement may vary by up to 2cm from the
pattern depending on the child they are made for as not all children are the same size.
1. Mark button placement position 3” (7.5cm) from the folded end (or to suit the
wearer).
2. Sew button so that it is centred on the button placement position.
TIP: Use embroidery thread or double your regular thread when sewing on
buttons and start and finish your knot on the top side of the garment under
the button so the side that sits against the body does not have any knots
which might irritate the skin.
Your Overalls are finished!
Page | 50
TECHNIQUES
Gathering
a. Overlocker Gathering
1. To gather on the overlocker, position the fabric at the ¼” (0.75cm) mark which
ensures that you don’t cut away any fabric during this step.
2. Refer to your machine’s manual for information on settings to use for gathering.
3. To adjust your gathering, pull the 2 straight stitches and evenly distribute the
gathering.
b. Sewing Machine Gathering
1. To gather on your sewing machine, I recommend adjusting your machine to the

longest stitch and setting your tension to the tightest tension. You should consult
instructions for your individual machine to establish the best gathering technique.
2. Sew a straight line 1/8” (0.25cm) from the top of the fabric, followed by another
straight line ¼” (0.75cm) from the top of the fabric.
3. To gather, gently pull the 2 bobbin threads (the bottom ones) and evenly distribute
the gathers.
Page | 51
Rolled Hem
a. Overlocker Rolled Hem
1. Set overlocker to rolled hem settings (consult the manual for individual settings for
your machine). Disengage your knife for the best finish.
b. Sewing Machine Rolled Hem
1. To create a rolled hem on your sewing machine, you can play around with your zig-
zag settings and make the width and length smaller. Practice on scraps until you get
a finish you like.
TIP: On my Janome, I change my stitch width from 5 to 3 and change the stitch
length from 2 to 0.5. I have done it in pink here so you can see how it looks, but
if you use co-ordinating thread like the fabric on the left, it comes up well!
c. Rolled Hem Foot
1. Use a rolled hem foot on your sewing machine to get a ‘less raw’ look to your rolled
hem. When using this technique, roll the hem on the straight edge of the ruffle
(rather than the curved edge) and gather the curved edge before attaching.
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INSPIRATION PAGE
Here are some completed Overalls to inspire you!
Inspiration pictures (L-R) courtesy of: BOO! Designs, Designer Mumma, Cherry Blossom Baby, Yumminess Textiles, India’s
Closet, Joe Joe and the Teddy Bear, For Monster and Miss and Georgie Porge
Page | 53
Gathering
/
Gathering
/
Gathering
/
Gathering
/
Gathering
/
1
2
2
3
4
5
6
3
BOO! Designs
Design Your Own Overalls
FRONT PANTS
Cut 2
Cuff cut line

Elastic/Hem cut line
/ Gathering
BOO! Designs
CUFF
Cut 2
Ankle
Shorts
2 3
BOO! Designs
Design Your Own Overa
RUFFLE
Cut 2
4
BOO! Designs
STRAP
Cut 2

5
KEY
Size 2
Size 3
Size 4
Size 5
Size 6
Grainline
BOO! Designs Fold
Design Your Own Overalls Cuff Cut Line
Ankle Cuff
FRONT WAISTBAND Button hole
fold
Strap placement
Cut 2 on fold Rufﬂe placement
Cut 1 interfacing on fold Button Placement

Notches
23 4 5 6
BOO! Designs
fold
BACK WAISTBAND
Cut 2 on fold
6
23 4 5 6
/ Gathering
/ Gathering
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Gathering
Gathering
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7
2
3
4
5
6
6
8
5
9
Gathering
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3 4 5 6 2 3 4 5 6
O! Designs
our Own Overalls 6
10
UFFLE
Cut 2
5
4
esigns
Own Overalls
RAP
11 2 3 4
12
BOO! Designs
POCKET
Cut 4
2
3
4
5
6
BOO! Desig
Design
Your O
ns
w n Overa
lls
BACK P
A NTS
Cut 2
Cuff c
u
Elastic t line
/ H e m cut line
13
14
15
/ Gathering
/ Gathering
/ Gathering
/ Gathering
/ Gathering
16 3
4
5
2
BOO! Designs
BODICE
fold
Cut 2 on fold
Cut 1 interfacing on fold
2
3
4
5
1" X 1" 6
TEST
17
4
5
6
BOO! Designs
SIDE POCKET
Cut 4
2
3
4
5
6
18 5
6
4
3
2
BOO! Designs
POCKET
Cut 4
BOO! DESIGNS Copyright 2013

NOT TO BE RESOLD OR REPRODUCED IN ANY WAY

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What are the main steps to make overalls?

What are the main steps to make overalls?

What customization options are included in the pattern?

What customization options are included in the pattern?

CONTENTS

HISTORY OF ‘DESIGN YOUR OWN OVERALLS’................................................................................ 3

GETTING STARTED .............................................................................................................................. 4

CREATE YOUR PATTERN PIECES ....................................................................................................... 7

CUT OUT YOUR FABRIC ...................................................................................................................... 9

BACK POCKETS ................................................................................................................................... 10

PANTS CENTRE SEAM ........................................................................................................................ 21

SIDE POCKETS .................................................................................................................................... 22

FRONT PANTS ..................................................................................................................................... 24

BACK PANTS ........................................................................................................................................ 28

SIDE SEAMS ........................................................................................................................................ 33

CUFF (ALTERNATE) ............................................................................................................................ 42

Rolled Hem ...................................................................................................................................... 52

INSPIRATION PAGE ........................................................................................................................... 53

HISTORY OF ‘DESIGN YOUR OWN OVERALLS’

The pattern includes 2 length

I hope you enjoy designing

© BOO! Designs: CONDITIONS OF SALE & COPYRIGHT

printer air erasable marker (or tailor’s chalk)

Fabric & Notions

2 x size 30 (19mm) buttons (or larger according to your preference)

Style Yards Metres

Recommended fabrics: Cotton, Drill, Linen, Denim, Light weight cord

Required Pattern Pieces Optional Pattern Pieces

Let’s get started!

3. Clip the corners as shown below.

9. Use a buttonhole cutter to neatly cut your buttonhole.

3. Fold the 2 folded edges to meet and press.

If you are not putting ruffles on your straps, skip to step 11

2. Repeat for back pants pieces.

5. Fold out the inside of the back waistband and press.

4. Repeat other side.

7. Sew down the side seam and around the pocket.

8. Clip the corner.

11. The inside of the overalls will look like this.

1. Complete cuff step 1

2. Complete cuff steps 3-5

6. Repeat for other leg.

7. Complete cuff steps 6-7

10. Complete cuff step 11

If you are not inserting elastic, you are finished!

2. Sew button so that it is centred on the button placement position.

Your Overalls are finished!

b. Sewing Machine Gathering

1. To gather on your sewing machine, I recommend adjusting your machine to the

b. Sewing Machine Rolled Hem

c. Rolled Hem Foot

Cuff cut line

BOO! DESIGNS Copyright 2013

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