Ice Chest Plans

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Optional:

Clamps – Clamps are helpful for any project. I love to use JackClamps.
Circular Saw
Kreg Jig Face Clamp – Very handy.
Kreg Jig Right Angle Clamp – A must!
Speed Square
Hand Sander
Hole Saw Set

Supplies Needed
Wood Glue – I’d recommend Gorilla brand wood glue.
Box of 2 1/2 inch Kreg Screws
Driil Bits
120/220/400 Grit Sandpaper
Box of 1 1/4 inch nails for air nailer
Teflon Tape
4 inch Riser, 1/2 inch threaded Piping, 1/2 inch coupler, Red knob spigot/valve
2 1/2 inch or 2 inch locking caster wheels
52 Quart Igloo Contour Cooler (I found mine at Target for $29.00)
2 Hinges
3 Handles
Bottle Opener
Optional: Bottle Cap Catcher
Paint Brush
Minwax Helmsman Spar Urethane
Rubber gloves
Safety glasses
Ear Protection

Wood:
QTY: 12 – 5/8 thick x 5 1/2 x 6 long cedar fence pickets : $2.59/board
QTY: 8 – 2×4 x 8 cedar boards : $7 / board

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Cedar Wood: $87
Spigot/valve: $6
2 Hinges: $4
Bottle Opener: $5
4 Wheels: $18
1 Qt Sealer: $15
1 box 2 1/2 inch screws: $10
Nails/other screws: $7
Cooler: $29
Glue: $5
Piping: $4
*Approximate Total Cost (Not including tools and supplies you might have like rubber gloves, paint
brush, etc.)
You can decrease the cost of this build by using pine 2×4’s instead of cedar to save about $36. Use
a cooler you already have or pick one up at a garage sale or on craigslist to save about $29. Ditch
the wheels to save an additional $18.

Overall Dimensions:
Please note you will need to adjust the measurements a bit to fit your exact cooler. If you have an
old cooler lying around go ahead and use it! Don’t buy a brand new one if you don’t have to.

32 inches wide – 22 inches deep – 36 3/4 inches tall plus 2 1/2 inch wheels

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Step 1:
Remove hardware from cooler. Please refer to the Youtube video and Post to help answer questions
and for detailed photos / shots of the project.

Step 2:
Start making your cuts for the legs of your cedar ice chest. I’d recommend using a miter saw. Then
assemble the legs. I used a Kreg Jig to drill 4 pocket holes in one board for each leg. Then connect
using wood glue and 2 1/2 inch Kreg screws.

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Step 3
Assemble the frame for the cooler out of 2×4 boards. Connect each 2×4 with 2 1/2 inch screws. You
can make it as snug as you’d like. I left about a half inch of play on each side to make it easy to
remove the cooler if needed. Use the cooler as a template or measure the cooler to determine how
long to cut these boards.

Step 4
Attach the 4 legs to the top frame. Use 2 1/2 inch wood screws and put about 4 for in each corner.
Drill a pilot hole before putting the screws in so the wood doesn’t split.

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Step 5
Add the apron. Rip fence boards on a table saw and then glue and nail them to the top as shown in
the photo. This will create about a half-inch overhang on each outer side. I cut the apron to 3 1/2
inches wide.

Step 6
Create the cooler support out of 2×4’s.

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Step 7
Place the frame upside down on a flat surface and slide the cooler in place. Next, put the support at
the base of the cooler and attach to the legs using screws and pocket holes. If you don’t have a kreg
jig, you could pre-drill and then run screws in at an angle.

This is what the support measurements for the cooler I used look like.

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Step 8
Add fence pickets around all sides to hide the cooler. I started by attaching a board in the middle of
the sections and then moved to the left and right. Use as many full width fence boards as you can.
Rip the outer boards on a table saw to get a perfect fit. I’d recommend spacing the boards roughly
1/8 to 1/4 of an inch from each other.

Side View

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Step 9
Add trim horizontally on each side. Rip fence boards into 2 inch strips and then glue and nail the trim
in place.

Step 10
Place the cooler in the frame and then mark where the hole will go through the side of the wood
surround. Then drill a small hole through the wood from the inside. Next, use a larger bit or hole saw
from the outside to finish the full sized hole. This is where the piping will go through. Please refer to
the video and post for more detailed information.

You may need to get various lengths of piping due to the cooler used, but head to the pvc pipe /
sprinkler section to get the supplies. I used the plastic hardware that came with the cooler (white
pieces and gasket shown in post and video) to attach to the threaded 1/2 inch threaded nipple to the
right in the photo. The 1/2 inch coupling secured the other side of the cooler. I then used a 4 inch
long 1/2 inch riser to go from the coupling to the spigot/shutoff valve.

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Step 11
I cut a scrap piece of picket to 3 1/2 inches by 3 1/2 inches to give the spigot a little extra support.
Use 1 inch screws to attach the valve.

Step 11
Determine the height and width of your cooler lid. Mine was a little less than 2 inches high and so I
ripped a couple 2×4 boards to make them 2 inches tall. Then place the boards around the perimeter
and cut to size. The lid should be snug with the wood.

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Step 12
Attach the plastic cooler lid to the wood using 2 inch screws. Pre-drill and then put in the screw.
Make sure the outer part of the lid is flush with the wood. The inner part will protrude from the wood
because it is what will allow the cooler to stay in place when the lid goes down. The inner portion will
seal the cooler. (explained in the video with more detail)

Cut 4 fence boards down to size and rip them each to the same width on the table saw. Leave about
an 1/8 of an inch between each. Use glue and an air nailer to attach the boards.

Step 14
With the lid in place, attach 2 hinges to the back of the lid and apron. Use the screws provided.

Step 15
Create a lower shelf. Cut a 2×4 down to 1 1/2 by 1 1/2 inches on a table saw ( or use a 2×2 board )
and then make the cuts to create the lower shelf supports. Glue and then screw them in place.

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Attach fence pickets to create the lower shelf. I did not have to rip these boards but do so if you need
to.

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Step 16
Sand the project with an orbital sander. Then wipe away the dust and apply finish to the wood. I love
the natural look of cedar and so I used Minwax Helmsman Spar Urethane. If you are using pine I’d
recommend either painting the project or applying quite a few coats of sealer. I’d recommend
removing any hardware you already installed to make the sealing process go faster.

Let the sealer dry overnight and then lightly sand with a sanding block and 400 grit paper to remove
any rough spots on areas where the cooler will be touched. Then wipe up the dust and apply 1 or 2
more thin coats of sealer using a clean rag.

Step 17
Attach the hardware. I picked up 3 handles from Home Depot that are 5 1/2 inches wide. I also found
the bottle opener and spigot/valve at Home Depot as well. Attach wheels to each leg by pre-drilling
and then using 2 inch screws. Adding wheels is optional and they are about $4 / wheel at the
hardware store. I used 2 1/2 inch locking caster wheels. Install the cooler and piping for the last time.

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This shows how the optional wheels are attached.

Enjoy!
Job well done! Put that new Patio Cooler to good use:) This is going to be great for your summer
barbecues, events, and parties.

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