2009-2011 DS Service Manual PDF
2009-2011 DS Service Manual PDF
2009-2011 DS Service Manual PDF
This manual provides detailed information for the maintenance and repair of the electric Precedent vehicles, and
should be thoroughly reviewed prior to servicing the vehicle. The procedures provided herein must be properly
implemented, and the DANGER, WARNING, and CAUTION statements must be heeded.
This manual was written for the trained technician who already possesses knowledge and skills in electrical and
mechanical repair. If the technician does not have such knowledge and skills, attempted service or repairs to the
vehicle may render the vehicle unsafe. For this reason, Club Car advises that all repairs and/or service be performed
by an authorized Club Car distributor/dealer representative or by a Club Car factory-trained technician.
It is the policy of Club Car, LLC to assist its distributors and dealers in continually updating their service knowledge
and facilities so they can provide prompt and efficient service for vehicle owners. Regional technical representatives,
periodic service bulletins, maintenance and service manuals, and other service publications also represent Club Car’s
continuing commitment to customer support.
Club Car offers a full line of training and continuing education classes for technicians who want to learn more about
our products. For more information, contact your local dealer or Club Car’s Technical Services department for a
list of upcoming classes.
This manual covers all aspects of typical vehicle service; however, unique situations sometimes occur when servicing a
vehicle. If it appears that a service question is not answered in this manual, please contact your nearest authorized
Club Car dealer or distributor for assistance. You may also write to us at: Club Car, LLC, P.O. Box 204658; Augusta,
GA 30917–4658 USA, Attention: Technical Services.
WARNING
• Read See Section 1 – Safety. before attempting any service on the vehicle.
• Before servicing vehicle, read complete section(s) and any referenced information that may be
relevant to the service or repair to be performed.
NOTE: This manual represents the most current information at the time of publication. Club Car, LLC is continually
working to further improve its vehicles and other products. These improvements may affect servicing
procedures. Any modification and/or significant change in specifications or procedures will be forwarded to all
Club Car dealers and will, when applicable, appear in future editions of this manual.
Club Car, LLC reserves the right to change specifications and designs at any time without notice and without
the obligation of making changes to units previously sold.
There are no warranties expressed or implied in this manual. See the limited warranty found in the vehicle
owner’s manual or write to Club Car, LLC, P.O. BOX 204658, Augusta, Georgia 30917-4658 USA, Attention:
Warranty Department.
SECTION 19 – IQ DISPLAY MODULE (IQDM) AND IQDM-P DIAGNOSTICS: IQ SYSTEM ................................ 19-1
To ensure the safety of those servicing Club Car vehicles, and to protect the vehicles from possible damage resulting
from improper service or maintenance, the procedures in this manual must be followed.
It is important to note that throughout this manual there are statements labeled DANGER, WARNING, or CAUTION.
These special statements relate to specific safety issues, and must be read, understood, and heeded before
proceeding with procedures. There are statements labeled NOTE, which provide other essential service or
maintenance information.
DANGER
• A DANGER indicates an immediate hazard that will result in severe personal injury or death.
WARNING
• A WARNING indicates an immediate hazard that could result in severe personal injury or death.
CAUTION
• A CAUTION with the safety alert symbol indicates a hazard or unsafe practice that could result in
minor personal injury.
CAUTION
• A CAUTION without the safety alert symbol indicates a potentially hazardous situation that could
result in property damage.
GENERAL WARNINGS
The following safety statements must be heeded whenever the vehicle is being operated, repaired, or serviced. Other
specific safety statements appear throughout this manual and on the vehicle.
DANGER
• Battery – Explosive gases! Do not smoke. Keep sparks and flames away from the vehicle and service
area. Ventilate when charging or operating vehicle in an enclosed area. Wear a full face shield and
rubber gloves when working on or near batteries.
• Battery – Poison! Contains acid! Causes severe burns. Avoid contact with skin, eyes, or clothing.
Antidotes:
DANGER
• Gasoline – Flammable! Explosive! Do not smoke. Keep sparks and flames away from the vehicle and
service area. Service only in a well-ventilated area.
• Do not operate gasoline vehicle in an enclosed area without proper ventilation. The engine produces
carbon monoxide, which is an odorless, deadly poison.
WARNING
• Only trained technicians should service or repair the vehicle or battery charger. Anyone doing even
simple repairs or service should have knowledge and experience in electrical and mechanical repair.
The appropriate instructions must be used when performing maintenance, service, or accessory
installation.
• Follow the procedures exactly as stated in this manual, and heed all DANGER, WARNING, and
CAUTION statements in this manual as well as those on the vehicle and battery charger.
• Prior to leaving the vehicle unattended or servicing the vehicle, set the park brake, turn the key switch
OFF, remove the key, and place the Forward/Reverse switch in the NEUTRAL position. Chock the
wheels when servicing the vehicle.
Gasoline vehicles only:
• To avoid unintentionally starting a gasoline vehicle, disconnect the battery and spark plug wire. See
Disconnecting the Battery – Gasoline Vehicles on page 1-3.
• Frame ground – Do not allow tools or other metal objects to contact frame when disconnecting battery
cables or other electrical wiring. Do not allow a positive wire to touch the vehicle frame, engine, or
any other metal component.
Electric vehicles only:
• Place Tow/Run switch in the TOW position before disconnecting or connecting the batteries. Failure to
heed this warning could result in a battery explosion or severe personal injury.
• To avoid unintentionally starting an electric vehicle, disconnect the batteries and discharge the
controller. See Disconnecting the Batteries – Electric Vehicles on page 1-5.
All vehicles:
• Wear safety glasses or approved eye protection when servicing the vehicle or battery charger. Wear a
full face shield and rubber gloves when working on or near batteries.
• Lift only one end of the vehicle at a time. Use a suitable lifting device (chain hoist or hydraulic floor
jack) with 1000 lb. (454 kg) minimum lifting capacity. Do not use lifting device to hold vehicle in raised
position. Use approved jack stands of proper weight capacity to support the vehicle and chock
the wheels that remain on the floor. When not performing a test or service procedure that requires
movement of the wheels, lock the brakes.
• Improper use of the vehicle or failure to properly maintain it could result in decreased vehicle
performance, severe personal injury, or death.
• Any modification or change to the vehicle that affects the stability or handling of the vehicle, or
increases maximum vehicle speed beyond factory specifications, could result in severe personal
injury or death.
• Check the vehicle owner’s manual for proper location of all vehicle safety and operation decals and
make sure they are in place and are easy to read.
WARNING
• Do not wear loose clothing or jewelry such as rings, watches, chains, etc., when servicing the
vehicle or battery charger.
• Use insulated tools when working near batteries or electrical connections. Use extreme caution to
avoid shorting of components or wiring.
• Moving parts! Do not attempt to service the vehicle while it is running.
• Hot! Do not attempt to service hot engine or exhaust system. Failure to heed this warning could
result in severe burns.
• If wires are removed or replaced, make sure wiring and wire harness are properly routed and secured.
Failure to properly route and secure wiring could result in vehicle malfunction, property damage,
personal injury, or death.
• For vehicles with cargo beds, remove all cargo before raising the bed or servicing the vehicle. If the
vehicle is equipped with a prop rod, ensure that it is securely engaged while bed is raised. Do not
close bed until all persons are clear of cargo bed area. Keep hands clear of all crush areas. Do not
drop cargo bed; lower gently and keep entire body clear. Failure to heed this warning could result in
severe personal injury or death.
• Do not leave children unattended on vehicle.
3
(+)
2 1
(–)
3
4
2
Figure 1-1 Battery Cable Removal – 4x12-Volt Battery
Configuration
RUN
TOW 3
WAR
NIN
G
(+)
1
3
4
2
(–)
1
2
2 1
5
6
(Viewed from driver side of vehicle) (Viewed from passenger side of vehicle)
1. Place TOW/RUN Switch in TOW before disconnecting or connecting 1. Remove negative battery cable.
battery cables. 2. Remove positive battery cable.
2. Remove negative battery cable. Connect battery cables in reverse order.
3. Remove positive battery cable.
Connect battery cables in reverse order.
1436 1
Figure 1-2 Battery Cable Removal – 6x8-Volt Battery Figure 1-3 Battery Cable Removal – Gasoline Vehicle
Configuration
IQ SYSTEM
SPECIFICATIONS GASOLINE
ELECTRIC
POWER SOURCE
Engine: 4-cycle OHV, 286 cc, 9.5 maximum hp @ 3600 RPM (per SAE J 1940/1349),
•
single-cylinder, air-cooled, with pressure lubrication system
Fuel system: Side-draft carburetor with float bowl, fixed jets, fuel filters, and impulse fuel
•
pump
Transaxle: Double reduction helical gear with 12.3:1 direct drive axle •
Unitized transaxle: Fully synchronized forward and reverse with neutral and reduced
•
speed reverse (11.8:1 forward, 17.1:1 reverse)
Electrical system: 12 volt, 500 cca at 0 °F (-17.8 °C), 650 at 32 °F (0 °C). 105-minute
•
reserve capacity and 35-amp charging capacity
STEERING/SUSPENSION/BRAKES
Suspension: Front and rear tapered mono-leaf springs with dual hydraulic shocks • •
Brakes: Dual rear wheel self-adjusting brakes with cast iron drums and single brake pedal
• •
with automatic-release park brake
BODY/CHASSIS
DIMENSIONS/WEIGHT
IQ SYSTEM
SPECIFICATIONS GASOLINE
ELECTRIC
Weight (vehicle with canopy, without batteries) 494 lb. (224 kg)
LIQUID CAPACITIES
TIRE PRESSURE
DANGER
• See General Warnings on page 1-1.
WARNING
• See General Warnings on page 1-1.
Important features unique to the different models covered in this manual are highlighted. Club Car, LLC recommends
the owner/operator read and understand this manual and pay special attention to features specific to their vehicle(s).
Refer to the owner’s manual provided with the vehicle for information on the following topics:
• Pre-Operation and Daily Safety Checklist
• Controls and Indicators
• Driving Instructions
• Towing
• Transporting on a Trailer
• Subsequent Owner Registration
• Warranties
The serial number of the vehicle is printed on a bar code decal mounted on the frame directly above the accelerator
pedal (Example: AQ0601-123456) (Figure 3-1, Page 3-2). There is also a second serial number decal mounted on
the front body frame behind the center dash panel. The center dash panel must be removed to view this decal. See
following NOTE.
The two letters (1) at the beginning of the serial number indicate the vehicle model. The following four digits (2)
indicate the model year and production week during which the vehicle was built. The six digits (3) following the hyphen
represent the unique sequential number assigned to each vehicle built within a given model year. See following NOTE.
NOTE: Have the vehicle serial number available when ordering parts or making inquiries.
Build Code: The build code (4) is a five-digit number that appears on the vehicle serial number decal. The build code
exists to enable the user to identify the correct owner’s manual for a vehicle. This owner’s manual is valid for the build
code range indicated on the back cover of this owner’s manual.
1 2 3
4
SERIAL NUMBER
BC54679
PH0901-123456
ASSEMBLED IN USA
1400
Figure 3-1 Serial Number Decal
SAFETY COMMITTEE
If the golf car is to be rented or is part of a fleet, we strongly recommend that a safety committee be appointed. One of
the main concerns of this committee should be the safe operation of the golf cars.
The safety committee should include all these items and such others as the committee feels necessary or appropriate.
WARNING
• Turn the key switch to the OFF position, remove the key, and leave the Forward/Reverse handle or
switch in the NEUTRAL position during storage. This is to prevent unintentionally starting the vehicle
or a fire hazard. Place Tow/Run switch in the TOW position.
• Do not attempt to charge frozen batteries or batteries with bulged cases. Discard the battery. Frozen
batteries can explode.
CAUTION
• Batteries in a low state of charge will freeze at low temperatures.
• To avoid exposing electrical components to moisture and subsequent damage, do not use any type of
pressure washing or steam cleaning equipment to wash the vehicle.
NOTE: The OBC keeps track of the time spent in storage mode. When the OBC detects that the storage charge
cycles may have depleted the available electrolyte, it will stop the charger from further operation.
Disconnecting then reconnecting the DC cord (stationary charger) or AC cord (onboard charger) indicates the
electrolyte levels have been maintained and allows the OBC to resume operation.
While in storage, the Tow/Run switch should be in Tow. When in Tow mode, the amber battery warning light
will not illuminate. Do not attempt to use the battery light as an indication of battery state while in storage.
8.3. If AC power is off for 7 days or longer, the OBC will not function or charge the vehicle again until it has
been restarted. To restart the computer, make sure AC power has been restored, disconnect the DC
cord (stationary charger) from the vehicle or the AC cord (onboard charger) from the power source, wait
five seconds, then reconnect it.
CAUTION
• Be sure to check the batteries and charger monthly to maintain correct battery water level and to
ensure the charger is operating correctly during storage.
8.4. If the charger cannot remain plugged in, AC power will not be available during extended storage, or
electrolyte levels will not be maintained, then disconnect the batteries for storage (Figure 1-1, Page
1-4) or (Figure 1-2, Page 1-4).
1. If necessary, connect batteries. See Connecting the Batteries – Electric Vehicles on page 1-5.
2. Fully charge batteries.
3. Adjust tires to recommended tire pressure. See Section 2 – Vehicle Specifications.
4. Perform the Pre-Operation and Daily Safety Checklist on page 10-1.
DANGER
• Do not attempt to drain fuel when the engine is hot or while it is running.
• Store fuel in an approved fuel container only. Store in a well-ventilated area away from sparks, open
flames, heaters, or heat sources.
WARNING
• Turn the key switch to the OFF position, remove the key, and leave the Forward/Reverse handle in
the NEUTRAL position during storage. This is to prevent unintentionally starting the vehicle or a
fire hazard.
• Turn the fuel shut-off valve to the closed (OFF) position (Figure 3-2, Page 3-6).
CAUTION
• Batteries in a low state of charge will freeze at low temperatures.
1. Store vehicle in a cool, dry place. This will minimize battery self-discharge. If the battery appears to be weak,
have it charged by a trained technician. Use an automotive-type 12-volt battery charger rated at 10 amps or less.
2. Drain carburetor and seal the fuel tank.
2.1. Place the Forward/Reverse handle in the NEUTRAL position and the neutral lockout cam in the
MAINTENANCE position. Turn the fuel shut-off valve to the closed (OFF) position (Figure 3-2, Page 3-6)
and run the engine until fuel remaining in the carburetor and fuel lines is depleted and the engine stalls.
Return the neutral lockout cam to the OPERATE position.
2.2. Loosen, but do not remove, the carburetor drain screw and drain fuel remaining in bowl into a small, clean
container, then pour the fuel from the container into vehicle fuel tank. Tighten the carburetor drain screw.
2.3. Disconnect fuel vent line from fuel tank vent nipple.
2.4. Plug the fuel tank vent nipple so that it is air tight. We recommend using a slip-on vinyl cap.
3. Disconnect battery and spark plug wire(s). See Disconnecting the Battery – Gasoline Vehicles on page 1-3.
4. Batteries should be clean and free of corrosion. Wash tops and terminals of batteries with
a solution of baking soda and water (1 cup (237 mL) baking soda per 1 gallon (3.8 L) of
water). Rinse solution off batteries. Do not allow this solution to enter the batteries. Let the
terminals dry and then coat them with Battery Terminal Protector Spray (CC P/N 1014305).
1
2
1
3
2
1. Vent 2. Shut-off Valve 3. Vent Tubes
1. Fuel Shut-off Valve
2. Closed (OFF)
3. Open (ON)
NOTE: When selecting valve position, ensure that it is fully opened
or fully closed.
449 24
Figure 3-2 Fuel Shut-off Valve Figure 3-3 Fuel Tank, Vent, and Lines
5. To protect the engine, remove spark plug and pour 1/2 ounce (14.2 mL) of SAE 10 weight oil into the engine
through the spark plug hole. Rotate engine crankshaft by hand several times and then install the spark plug.
6. Adjust tires to recommended tire pressure. See Vehicle Specifications on page 2-1.
7. Perform semiannual periodic lubrication. See Periodic Lubrication Schedules on page 10-6.
8. Thoroughly clean front body, rear body, seats, engine compartment, and underside of vehicle.
9. Do not engage the park brake. Chock the wheels to prevent the vehicle from rolling.
NOTE: Due to the oil added to the engine in preparation for storage, engine may smoke excessively for a short
time when it is run for the first time after storage.
5. Adjust tires to recommended tire pressure. See Vehicle Specifications on page 2-1.
6. Perform the Pre-Operation and Daily Safety Checklist on page 10-1.
DANGER
• See General Warnings on page 1-1.
WARNING
• See General Warnings on page 1-1.
CAUTION
• Do not use detergents or cleaning solvents that contain ammonia, aromatic solvents, or alkali
materials on body panels or seats.
• Do not allow battery acid to drip on body panels. Battery acid will cause permanent damage. Wash
spilled battery acid from body panels immediately.
Club Car DS vehicles are equipped with ArmorFlex® front and rear bodies. Use only commercially available automotive
cleaners with a sponge or soft cloth for normal cleaning. A garden hose at normal residential water pressure is
adequate.
Club Car does not recommend any type of pressure washing or steam cleaning. Such a process (especially if the
vehicle has an ArmorFlex rear body that is removed) will expose electrical components to moisture. Moisture entering
electrical components can result in water damage and subsequent component failure.
Use non-abrasive wax products. Battery acid, fertilizers, tars, asphalt, creosote, paint, or chewing gum should be
removed immediately to prevent possible stains. See following NOTE.
SEAT CLEANING
To preserve seat appearance, clean regularly with mild soap or detergent applied with a sponge or soft cloth. Use a
soft bristle brush to clean areas that are especially soiled. Use the following guidelines:
Light Soiling: A solution of 10% liquid dish soap and warm water applied with a soft, damp cloth is recommended.
A soft bristle brush may be used if necessary. Wipe off any residue with a water dampened cloth.
Difficult Stains: Dampen a soft, white cloth with a solution of 10% household bleach (sodium hypochlorite) and
90% water. Rub gently to remove stain, then rinse with a water dampened cloth to remove bleach concentration.
More Difficult Stains: Perform previous procedure using full-strength bleach, or allow bleach to puddle on
affected area for approximately 30 minutes. Rinse with a water dampened cloth to remove any remaining bleach
concentration. See following CAUTION.
CAUTION
• To prevent damage to the vehicle when removing difficult stains or heavy soiling, remove the seat
bottom from the vehicle first.
Repeatedly flexing the ArmorFlex body can cause white stress lines or streaks in the finish. To remove them:
1. Hold a heat gun 12 inches (30 cm) away from the affected area, with the gun on its lowest heat setting.
2. Slowly wave the heat gun back and forth over the affected area until the streak fades.
3. It may be necessary to move the gun closer to the body to fade the streak, but under no circumstance should the
gun be held closer than 6 inches (15 cm) to the body. See following CAUTION.
CAUTION
• Holding the heat gun too close to the body could melt the body or damage the finish.
Minor impact damage to an ArmorFlex body can be repaired using a procedure similar to the one used to remove
stress lines. To remove deformations resulting from minor impact damage:
1. Hold a heat gun 12 inches (30 cm) away from the affected area, with the gun on its lowest heat setting.
2. Periodically remove the heat gun and bend the body, using a push block, in the opposite direction of the
deformation.
3. Continue heating and bending the body until the original shape returns. Under no circumstance should the gun be
held closer than 6 inches (15 cm) to the body. See preceding CAUTION.
For minor scratches or blemishes in the body that do not penetrate the finish:
1. Thoroughly clean the affected area using a strong, non-abrasive detergent and hot water, then clean with
Ultra-Kleen® Solvent Cleaner to remove any oil-based contaminants.
2. Lightly buff imperfection with a clean soft cloth or buff pad. Do not use any kind of rubbing (abrasive) compound
on body assemblies.
3. Wax the entire body part to restore luster and weather protection.
1. Thoroughly clean the affected area with alcohol and then dry thoroughly.
2. Using 240 grit or finer sandpaper, lightly sand the scratch to feather the edges. Finish sand the scratch with 320
grit or finer paper to remove gloss from the surface. Sand as little body surface as possible beyond the scratch.
See following CAUTION.
CAUTION
• Be careful not to sand completely through the finish to the body material.
3. Using the brush provided with the touch-up paint apply paint to the scratch. Multiple layers of paint may
be required to fill the scratch.
4. Allow paint to dry completely (approximately 10-20 minutes), then lightly buff the imperfection.
5. Wax the entire body part to restore luster and weather protection.
Touch-up is not recommended. Replace the entire body part or have it repaired by a professional paint and body repair
shop with experience repairing TPO bodies.
COLOR CC P/N
Beige 101997201
White 101997202
Red 101997203
Gray 101997204
Black 101997207
Burgundy 101997212
CANOPY
CANOPY REMOVAL
1. Remove the eight nuts (7) and eight washer-head screws (6) from the holes in each channel and brace of the
canopy as shown. Remove the canopy (11) from the windshield frame (3) and rear braces (4 and 5) (Figure 4-1,
Page 4-5).
2. Remove the nylon lock nuts (10) and four flat washers (9) from the bottom end of the driver and passenger side
rear braces (4 and 5). Remove the four hex-head cap screws (8) and four flat washers (9) and remove the rear
braces from the front side of the seat back supports.
3. Remove the two washer-head screws (1) securing the windshield frame (3) to the front body of the vehicle.
4. Remove the pads (12) from under the windshield frame mounting bracket on the front body.
CANOPY INSTALLATION
1. Place the pads (12) on the front body and under the windshield frame mounting brackets (Figure 4-1, Page 4-5).
Align the slots on the pads with the slots in the mounting brackets.
2. Secure the windshield frame (3) to the front body of the vehicle with two washer-head screws (1). Tighten
the screws to 45 in-lb (5.1 N-m).
3. Mount bottom end of the driver and passenger side rear braces (4 and 5) to the front side of the seat back
supports with four hex-head cap screws (8) and four flat washers (9). Secure with four flat washers (9) and four
nylon lock nuts (10). Tighten the hardware to 45 in-lb (5.1 N-m).
4. Place the canopy (11) onto the windshield frame (3) and braces (4 and 5). Insert the upper ends of the frame and
braces into the channels in the underside of the canopy. Insert eight washer-head screws (6) through the holes in
each channel and brace as shown. Secure the canopy with eight nuts (7). Tighten the screws to 45 in-lb (5.1 N-m).
11 4
6
7
3
5
8
9
9
12 10
1368
Figure 4-1 Canopy Assembly
FRONT BODY
1. Remove screws (3) and lock nuts (4) and pull front bumper (2) from vehicle frame (Figure 4-2, Page 4-7).
2. Remove blind rivets (5).
3. Remove the eight nuts (7) and eight washer-head screws (6) from the holes in each channel and brace of the
canopy as shown. Remove the canopy (11) from the windshield frame (3) and rear braces (4 and 5) (Figure 4-1,
Page 4-5).
4. Remove the two washer-head screws (1) securing the windshield frame (3) to the front body of the vehicle.
5. Remove the pads (12) from under the windshield frame mounting bracket on the front body.
6. Remove carriage bolts (10), lock nuts (17), and washers (11) from front body trim (Figure 4-2, Page 4-7).
7. Loosen (do not remove) screws (12) holding front body trim (9) against front body.
8. Remove the screws (16) securing the front body to the frame.
9. Pull front body (8) from under trim (9) and remove the body from the vehicle.
1. Install front body (8) under trim (9), align holes and finger-tighten screws (16) holding front body against frame
(Figure 4-2, Page 4-7).
2. Install carriage bolts (10), washers (11), and lock nuts (17) onto front body trim. Tighten bolts to 11 ft-lb (14.9
N·m). Tighten screws (16) to 20 in-lb (2.3 N·m). See following NOTE.
NOTE: If installing a new front body, two 5/16 (8 mm) holes must be drilled after the body has been placed on the
vehicle. Use the body trim (9) as a guide for drilling the holes.
3. Tighten screws (12) holding front body trim against front body to 17 in-lb (1.9 N·m).
4. Remove the two finger-tightened screws (16) from step 1 that secure the front body to frame (Figure 4-2,
Page 4-7).
5. Place the pads (12) on the front body and under the windshield frame mounting brackets (Figure 4-1, Page 4-5).
Align the slots on the pads with the slots in the mounting brackets.
6. Secure the windshield frame (3) to the front body of the vehicle with the two washer-head screws (16) removed
in step 4. Tighten the screws to 45 in-lb (5.1 N-m).
7. Place the canopy (11) onto the windshield frame (3) and rear braces (4 and 5). Insert the upper ends of the frame
and braces into the channels in the underside of the canopy. Insert eight washer-head screws (6) through the
holes in each channel and brace as shown. Secure the canopy with eight nuts (7). Tighten the screws to
45 in-lb (5.1 N-m).
8. Install push type blind rivets (5) that secure lower part of front body to frame.
9. Install front bumper onto vehicle with screws (3) and lock nuts (4). Tighten to 65 in-lb (7.3 N·m).
10
16 11
9 17
Club
Car
12
5 13
3
1362
Figure 4-2 Front Body Assembly
REAR BODY
Gasoline vehicles only: The choke button assembly does not have to be removed to remove rear body.
However, adjustment of the choke positioner may be necessary after the rear body is installed.
1. Turn the key switch OFF and remove the key. Place the Forward/Reverse handle in NEUTRAL and set the
park brake. Chock the wheels.
2. Remove the seat from the rear body.
3. Disconnect the battery cables and either discharge the controller or disconnect the spark plug wire(s). See
Disconnecting the Batteries – Electric Vehicles, Section 1, Page 1-5. See Disconnecting the Battery –
Gasoline Vehicles, Section 1, Page 1-3.
4. Remove bagwell protector by gently pulling the bagwell protector at each plastic barrel (2) (Figure 4-3, Page 4-8).
5. Remove the two screws (1), lock nuts and washers located under bagwell protector in bagwell floor.
6. Remove the two screws, nuts and washers located at the bottom edge of the seat support panel (in kick-plate just
above the floormat) (Figure 4-4, Page 4-8).
1
00000
00000
00000
1363 1364
Figure 4-3 Remove Screws Under Bagwell Protector Figure 4-4 Remove Kick-Plate Screws
7. Gasoline vehicles only: Remove the screw securing the Forward/Reverse handle and slide the handle from the
shaft.
8. IQ System vehicles only: Disconnect or remove charger receptacle (Figure 4-5, Page 4-9):
The charger receptacle must be disconnected, but does not have to be removed from the body:
8.1. Remove wire ties binding 10-gauge red wire (from charger receptacle to battery) to the vehicle frame.
Disconnect the 10-gauge red wire at the positive post of battery no. 1.
8.2. Remove the retaining nut and disconnect the 10-gauge black wire (from the onboard computer) from the
receptacle.
8.3. Unplug the fuse holder assembly to disconnect the gray sense lead from the receptacle
1365
Figure 4-5 PowerDrive Charger Receptacle
9. Disconnect and remove Forward/Reverse switch:
9.1. IQ System vehicles: Disconnect the three-pin connector (13) from the Forward/Reverse switch (Figure
4-6, Page 4-9).
RUN
TOW
13
1366
Figure 4-6 IQ System Forward/Reverse Switch Connector
9.2. Gasoline vehicles: Remove four screws and nylon lock nuts securing the Forward/Reverse shifter to the
rear body. Pull the Forward/Reverse shifter (with wiring and cable assembly still connected) from body and
allow it to rest on vehicle frame I-beam.
9.3. Remove the shifter cable from the cable hanger under the driver-side seat hinge.
9.4. Remove two nylon lock nuts from fuel pump and remove fuel pump from seat support.
10. Remove the two screws securing the rear access panel.
11. Remove two carriage bolts (2), nuts (4), and washers (3) attaching the rear legs (1) of the seat back support
assembly to the body (Figure 4-7, Page 4-10).
12. Remove four screws (8), flat washers (9), and spacers (10), attaching the front legs (5) of the seat back support
assembly to the body (Figure 4-7, Page 4-10).
13. Lift seat back assembly from vehicle. (Figure 4-7, Page 4-10).
14. Lift the rear body from the vehicle.
2
9 5
10 1
3
1 4
1367
Figure 4-7 Seat Back Support Front and Rear Leg Mounting
1. Tighten four screws (8), flat washers (9) and spacers (10), attaching the front legs (5) of the seat back support
assembly to the body to 20 in-lb (2.3 N·m) (Figure 4-7, Page 4-10).
2. Tighten the two bolts (2), nuts (4) and washers (3), attaching the rear legs (1) of the seat back support assembly
to the body to 11 ft-lb (14.9 N·m) (Figure 4-7, Page 4-10).
3. Tighten screws and lock nuts securing the Forward/Reverse switch or shifter to 33 in-lb (2.8 N·m).
4. Gasoline vehicles only: Install Forward/Reverse handle and tighten to 14 in-lb (1.6 N·m).
5. Tighten kick-plate screws, nuts and washers to 48 in-lb (5.4 N·m) (Figure 4-4, Page 4-8).
6. Tighten two screws (1), lock nuts and washers under rear body to 33 in-lb (2.8 N·m) (Figure 4-3, Page 4-8).
7. Gasoline vehicles only: Check the choke positioner for proper adjustment and adjust if necessary. Install fuel
pump. See Fuel Pump Installation on page 14-20.
8. IQ System vehicles only: Connect the three-pin connector (13) to the Forward/Reverse switch (Figure 4-6,
Page 4-9).
9. Connect the battery cables. See Connecting the Battery – Gasoline Vehicles, Section 1, Page 1-3. See
Connecting the Batteries – Electric Vehicles, Section 1, Page 1-5.
FLOOR MAT
1. Remove the brake and accelerator pedals. See Accelerator and Brake Pedal Group, Section 5, Page 5-1.
2. Loosen two screws in the rear body kick-plate (Figure 4-4, Page 4-8) and pull the rear edge of the floormat from
between the rear body and the floor panel.
3. Remove the top edge of the floormat from the overlapping flange under the dash.
4. Lift the mat from the vehicle.
1. Reverse the removal procedure to install the floormat. Tighten kick-plate screws to 48 in-lb (5.4 N·m).
2. Install the brake and accelerator pedals. See Accelerator and Brake Pedal Group, Section 5, Page 5-1.
DANGER
• See General Warnings on page 1-1.
WARNING
• See General Warnings on page 1-1.
1. Disconnect the battery cables and either discharge the controller or disconnect the spark plug wire(s). See
Disconnecting the Batteries – Electric Vehicles, Section 1, Page 1-5. See Disconnecting the Battery –
Gasoline Vehicles, Section 1, Page 1-3.
2. Place chocks under the rear wheels and lift the front end of the vehicle with a chain hoist or floor jack. Place
jack stands under the front cross tube of the vehicle frame and lower the vehicle onto the jack stands. See
following WARNING.
WARNING
• Lift only one end of the vehicle at a time. Use a suitable lifting device (chain hoist or hydraulic floor
jack) with 1000 lb. (454 kg) minimum lifting capacity. Do not use lifting device to hold vehicle in raised
position. Use approved jack stands of proper weight capacity to support the vehicle and chock
the wheels that remain on the floor. When not performing a test or service procedure that requires
movement of the wheels, lock the brakes.
1. From the top side of the floorboard, insert the brake pedal assembly (10) through the opening in the floor as
shown (Figure 5-2, Page 5-3) and install the brake pedal stop bumper (24) (Figure 5-1, Page 5-2) on the brake
pedal assembly, but do not tighten the jam nut (25) at this time.
2. Secure the equalizer rod (14) to the brake pedal assembly (10) with clevis pin (16) and bow-tie pin (15) as shown.
13
10
O P
ST 34
23
22 18
30 15
17 19
12
21 16
20 24
14
17
31 25 26
27
35 28
30 3
33 2
32 29
5 7
11
2
29
5 7
11
6
1400-18000-10201
Figure 5-1 Brake and Park Brake Pedal Assembly and Mounting
10
STOP
NOTE: Brake pedal free-play is the distance the brake pedal can be pressed before the brake actuator arm moves.
5. Tighten the jam nut (3) while holding the adjustment nut (2) in the correct position.
6. Adjust the pedal group. Refer to the appropriate adjustment procedure:
– For gasoline vehicles, see Pedal Group Adjustment – Gasoline Vehicles on page 5-10.
– For electric vehicles, see Pedal Group Adjustment – Electric Vehicles on page 5-15.
2 A
1
1369
Figure 5-3 Brake Pedal Free-Play Adjustment
1. Disconnect the battery cables and either discharge the controller or disconnect the spark plug wire(s). See
Disconnecting the Batteries – Electric Vehicles, Section 1, Page 1-5. See Disconnecting the Battery –
Gasoline Vehicles, Section 1, Page 1-3.
2. Place chocks under the rear wheels and lift the front end of the vehicle with a chain hoist or floor jack. Place
jack stands under the front cross tube of the vehicle frame and lower the vehicle onto the jack stands. See
following WARNING.
WARNING
• Lift only one end of the vehicle at a time. Use a suitable lifting device (chain hoist or hydraulic floor
jack) with 1000 lb. (454 kg) minimum lifting capacity. Do not use lifting device to hold vehicle in raised
position. Use approved jack stands of proper weight capacity to support the vehicle and chock
the wheels that remain on the floor. When not performing a test or service procedure that requires
movement of the wheels, lock the brakes.
NOTE: New push nuts (19) and (32) must be used when reassembling the park brake.
3.2. To remove the park brake pedal (1), remove the push retainer nut (32), disconnect the torsion spring (22)
and slide the pedal off of the shaft. See preceding NOTE.
3.3. Inspect all parts for wear and damage and replace as necessary.
A
23 20
22
30 C
1
10
18 19
21
B
35
30 17
32 12 A. Hook one end of spring (20) on park brake weldment.
B. Lift other end of spring (20) up and over brake weldment by prying
down on shaft with small screwdriver.
C. Shaft
Figure 5-4 Park Brake Assembly Figure 5-5 Torsion Spring Installation
1. From the bottom side of the floorboard, insert the park brake rod (17) through the brake pedal assembly opening.
Then install the park brake pawl (35) onto the shaft on the brake pedal assembly (10) and also insert the park
brake rod (17) into the park brake pawl (Figure 5-4, Page 5-4).
2. Install the push nut (19) on to the park brake pawl shaft.
3. Install the spacer (23) and torsion spring (22) on the park brake pedal shaft on the brake pedal assembly.
1. Disconnect battery and spark plug wire(s). See Disconnecting the Battery – Gasoline Vehicles, Section
1, Page 1-3.
2. Place chocks under the rear wheels and lift the front end of the vehicle with a chain hoist or floor jack. Place
jack stands under the front cross tube of the vehicle frame and lower the vehicle onto the jack stands. See
following WARNING.
WARNING
• Lift only one end of the vehicle at a time. Use a suitable lifting device (chain hoist or hydraulic floor
jack) with 1000 lb. (454 kg) minimum lifting capacity. Do not use lifting device to hold vehicle in raised
position. Use approved jack stands of proper weight capacity to support the vehicle and chock
the wheels that remain on the floor. When not performing a test or service procedure that requires
movement of the wheels, lock the brakes.
3. Disconnect the accelerator rod assembly (17, 25, and 24) (Figure 5-6, Page 5-6) at the front and rear ball studs
and remove it from the vehicle.
4. Use a 9/16-inch socket and 9/16-inch wrench to remove the nut (7), two washers (5), and bolt (4) securing the
accelerator pedal (1) to the pivot rod (6).
5. Remove the nut (10) and ball stud (8) from the accelerator pivot rod assembly (6).
6. Slide the spring retainer (11) off of the accelerator pivot rod.
7. Inspect the pivot support bearing (9) for wear and replace if necessary.
8. Use a marker to mark the position of the park brake ratchet (23) on the accelerator pivot rod (6). See following
NOTE.
NOTE: Failure to mark position of the ratchet could cause it to be reinstalled improperly, resulting in improper
adjustment and possible failure of the park brake.
9. Remove the lock nut (26) from the accelerator pivot rod (Figure 5-6, Page 5-6).
10. Press the brake pedal slightly and slide the park brake ratchet (23) toward the end of the accelerator pivot rod.
Rotate the ratchet and remove it from the pivot rod.
11. Remove the pivot rod (6) and spacer (20) from the accelerator pivot rod supports (21).
12. Inspect the accelerator pivot rod supports (21) for wear and damage and replace if necessary. If the pivot
rod supports do not require replacement, loosen, but do not remove, the four bolts (22) and lock nuts (18) to
make installation of the pivot rod easier.
13. Remove the accelerator pedal (1) from the vehicle.
14. Inspect all parts for wear and damage. Replace as necessary.
1 7
5 10
GO 6
11
12
13
14 15
9
5
4
8
24 16
25
17 17
25
24
18
19
21
20
22
26
21
23
1. If the accelerator pivot rod supports were replaced, position the supports (21) on the vehicle frame and install the
four bolts (22), flat washers (19), and lock nuts (18). Finger-tighten nuts at this time (Figure 5-6, Page 5-6).
2. Insert the lower end of the accelerator pedal (1) through the floorboard and install the accelerator pivot rod (6)
through the uppermost hole in the pedal.
3. Install the plastic spacer (20) on the pivot rod (6).
1. Disconnect the batteries and discharge the controller. See Disconnecting the Batteries – Electric Vehicles,
Section 1, Page 1-5.
2. Place chocks under the rear wheels and lift the front end of the vehicle with a chain hoist or floor jack. Place
jack stands under the front cross tube of the vehicle frame and lower the vehicle onto the jack stands. See
following WARNING.
WARNING
• Lift only one end of the vehicle at a time. Use a suitable lifting device (chain hoist or hydraulic floor
jack) with 1000 lb. (454 kg) minimum lifting capacity. Do not use lifting device to hold vehicle in raised
position. Use approved jack stands of proper weight capacity to support the vehicle and chock
the wheels that remain on the floor. When not performing a test or service procedure that requires
movement of the wheels, lock the brakes.
3. Remove the MCOR (2) and drive bar (3) as instructed (Figure 5-8, Page 5-9). See MCOR Removal, Section 20,
Page 20-5.
4. Use a 9/16-inch socket and 9/16-inch wrench to remove the nut (7), two washers (5), and bolt (4) securing the
accelerator pedal (1) to the pivot rod (6) (Figure 5-8, Page 5-9).
5. Remove the nut (10) and bolt (8) from the accelerator pivot rod assembly (6).
6. Slide the spring retainer (11) off of the accelerator pivot rod.
7. Inspect the pivot support bearing (9) for wear and replace if necessary.
8. Use a marker to mark the position of the park brake ratchet (24) on the accelerator pivot rod (6). See following
NOTE.
NOTE: Failure to mark position of the ratchet could cause it to be installed improperly, resulting in improper adjustment
and possible failure of the park brake.
9. Remove the lock nut (23) from the accelerator pivot rod.
10. Press the brake pedal slightly and slide the park brake ratchet (24) toward the end of the accelerator pivot rod.
Rotate the ratchet and remove it from the pivot rod.
11. Remove the pivot rod (6) and spacer (20) from the accelerator pivot rod supports (21) (Figure 5-8, Page 5-9).
12. Inspect the accelerator pivot rod supports (21) for wear and damage and replace as necessary. If the pivot
rod supports do not require replacement, loosen, but do not remove, the four bolts (22) and lock nuts (15) to
make installation of the pivot rod easier.
13. Remove the accelerator pedal (1) from the vehicle.
14. Inspect all parts for wear and damage. Replace as necessary.
7
5
3
1
GO 6 10
5
4
9 11
15
16
21
20
22
23
21
24
1. If the accelerator pivot rod supports were replaced, position the supports (21) on the vehicle frame and install the
four bolts (22), flat washers (16), and lock nuts (15) (Figure 5-8, Page 5-9). Finger-tighten nuts at this time.
2. Insert the lower end of the accelerator pedal (1) through the floorboard and install the accelerator pivot rod (6)
through the uppermost hole in the pedal.
3. Install plastic spacer (20) on pivot rod (6).
4. Insert the pivot rod through the pivot rod supports (21) on the vehicle frame.
5. Tighten the four bolts (22) attaching the pivot rod supports to the frame to 75 in-lb (8.5 N·m).
6. Insert the bolt (4), two washers (5), and a new lock nut (7) through the lower hole in the pedal and through the
pivot rod. Finger-tighten lock nut at this time.
7. Install the bolt (8) through the pivot rod (6) bearing (9) and spring retainer (11). Secure these parts with the nut
(10). Tighten the nut to 50 in-lb (5.5 N·m).
8. Press the brake pedal slightly, and with the park brake ratchet oriented so that the tip of the ratchet is pointed
toward the rear of the vehicle, slide the ratchet onto the pivot rod (do not slide the ratchet onto the pivot rod
splines). Release the brake pedal and allow the ratchet to rotate until its tip is pointed downward (Figure 5-7,
Page 5-7). The ratchet should now rotate freely on the rod.
9. Rotate the ratchet clockwise until it touches the park brake pawl, then slide the ratchet onto the splines of the
pivot rod (it may be necessary to push the pivot rod toward the driver side of the vehicle to make the splines
accessible). The ratchet may have to be rotated counterclockwise slightly to align the splines.
10. Install lock nut (23) on pivot rod (Figure 5-8, Page 5-9). Tighten to 18 ft-lb (24.5 N·m).
11. Install the MCOR (2) and drive bar (3) as instructed. See MCOR Installation, Section 20, Page 20-6.
12. Adjust the accelerator pedal height. See Pedal Group Adjustment – Electric Vehicles on page 5-15.
1. Disconnect battery and spark plug wire(s). See Disconnecting the Battery – Gasoline Vehicles, Section
1, Page 1-3.
2. Adjust brake pedal height.
2.1. Chock wheels and release park brake. Lift rear of vehicle and place jack stands under the axle tubes
to support the vehicle.
2.2. To provide slack in the brake cables, loosen the equalizer retaining nuts (1) on the equalizer rod (2) (Figure
5-9, Page 5-11).
1
2
4
3
12
9 10 11
7 8
00000
5 6
3 4
1 2
22
K
AP R P
TS O
31
00000
00000 00
Figure 5-10 Brake Pedal Height Adjustment Figure 5-11 Brake Pedal Height Measurement
3. Adjust brake pedal free play. See following NOTE.
NOTE: Brake pedal free play is the distance the brake pedal can be pressed before the brake actuator arm (at the
brake cluster) moves.
3.1. Measure perpendicularly from the floorboard to the back of the brake pedal, then press the brake pedal
and measure the distance that the pedal moves before all of the slack is taken out of the brake cables
(Figure 5-11, Page 5-11).
3.2. Tighten the nut (2) on the equalizer rod (1) so that the brake pedal free play is 1/4 to 1/2 inch (6.3 to 12.7
mm) (Figure 5-3, Page 5-3).
3.3. Tighten the jam nut (3) while holding the adjustment nut (2) in the correct position
4. Adjust park brake ratchet/pawl gap and pawl engagement.
4.1. Inspect the park brake pawl and ratchet for excessive wear, grooves, cracks, or chips. If either the pawl or
ratchet is damaged, both must be replaced.
4.2. Adjust retaining nut (7) on spring support rod until there is a 0.060 inch (1.5 mm) gap between the pawl
and the tips of the ratchet teeth. Use a feeler gauge to verify the gap (Figure 5-12, Page 5-12). The gap
should be consistent through range of pawl movement. If the gap is not consistent, loosen the four bolts (6)
securing the accelerator pivot rod supports and adjust the supports. If the gap becomes smaller as the park
brake pedal is pressed, move the pivot rod supports slightly rearward until the gap is consistent. If the gap
becomes larger as the park brake pedal is pressed, move the pivot rod supports slightly forward until gap
is consistent. See following NOTE.
NOTE: The accelerator rod must also be checked if the ratchet/pawl gap is adjusted. See step 6.
The accelerator rod must be disconnected before proceeding to the next step.
7
B 6
0.060 inch
(1.5 mm)
C D
C. Bottom View
D. Cutaway Side View
10 2
9
7 8
6 1
4 5 A
3
1 2
GO
3
00000
K
P
00000
R
PA
OT
00000
S 1. Locked Position
2. Ratchet (B) Tooth Length
3. Make sure pawl (A) engages at least 75% of ratchet tooth length (B).
1 2
1. 1/2-Inch Socket
2. 1/2-Inch Wrench
Figure 5-15 Brake Rod Adjustment Figure 5-16 Accelerator Pedal Height Adjustment
5. Adjust accelerator pedal height.
5.1. Loosen the nut and bolt (Figure 5-16, Page 5-13) securing the accelerator pedal to the pivot plate. Clamp
the accelerator pedal adjustment tool (CC P/N 101871001) to the accelerator pedal, with the end marked
accelerator pedal height closest to the floorboard. Press the accelerator pedal until the end of the tool rests
against the floorboard; pedal height should be 5-5/8 inches (14.3 cm). Use a rubber strap to hold pedal in
position against the floorboard and then tighten nut to 26 ft-lb (35.3 N·m) (Figure 5-17, Page 5-14).
PAR
K
PAR
K ST MICRO
BREAK
ST OP POINT
GO
OP G MICRO
BREAK
POINT
O
000 0
1
000 0
DANGER
• Before servicing, turn the key switch to the OFF position and place the Forward/Reverse handle in
the NEUTRAL position.
• To prevent accidentally starting the vehicle, disconnect the battery cables as instructed. See
Disconnecting the Battery – Gasoline Vehicles, Section 1, Page 1-3. This will prevent the possibility of
the vehicle running over you when you are adjusting the accelerator rod.
6.1. Remove the electrical box screw and cover. See preceding DANGER.
6.2. Loosen the jam nuts (25) and disconnect the accelerator rod (17) at the accelerator pedal (Figure 5-6,
Page 5-6). Adjust the length of the rod to obtain an accelerator cable cam position of 14° as shown
(Figure 5-18, Page 5-14). See following CAUTION.
14°
CAUTION
• After accelerator rod adjustment, make sure that approximately the same number of threads are
exposed at each end of the accelerator rod.
• If the lever on the limit switch in the electrical box is bent, replace the limit switch.
• When loosening jam nuts on the accelerator rod with one end disconnected, hold the disconnected
accelerator rod with locking pliers.
• When tightening jam nuts on the accelerator rod, hold the disconnected ball joint with locking pliers.
6.5. If the events above occur as they should, hold the ball joint at each end of the accelerator rod with pliers
and tighten the accelerator rod jam nut against it.
6.6. Ensure that the events occur as described in the table above. See following NOTE.
NOTE: After the pedal group and accelerator rod are adjusted, the final governed engine RPM should be set. See
Engine RPM Adjustment, Section 14, Page 14-11.
1. Disconnect the batteries and discharge the controller. See Disconnecting the Batteries – Electric Vehicles,
Section 1, Page 1-5.
2. Adjust brake pedal height.
2.1. Chock wheels and release park brake. Lift rear of vehicle and place jack stands under the axle tubes
to support the vehicle.
2.2. To provide slack in the brake cables, loosen the equalizer retaining nuts (1) on the equalizer rod (2) (Figure
5-19, Page 5-16).
1
2
4
3
12
9 10 11
7 8
00000
5 6
3 4
1 2
22
K
AP R P
TS O
31
00000
00000 00
Figure 5-20 Brake Pedal Height Adjustment Figure 5-21 Brake Pedal Height Measurement
3. Adjust brake pedal free play. See following NOTE.
NOTE: Brake pedal free play is the distance the brake pedal can be pressed before the brake actuator arm (at the
brake cluster) moves.
3.1. Measure perpendicularly from the floorboard to the back of the brake pedal, then press the brake pedal
and measure the distance that the pedal moves before all of the slack is taken out of the brake cables
(Figure 5-21, Page 5-16).
7
B 6
0.060 inch
(1.5 mm)
C D
C. Bottom View
D. Cutaway Side View
10 2
9
7 8
6 1
4 5 A
3
1 2
GO
3
00000
K
P
00000
R
PA
TS O
00000
1. Locked Position
2. Ratchet (B) Tooth Length
3. Make sure pawl (A) engages at least 75% of ratchet tooth length (B).
1 2
1. 1/2-Inch Socket
2. 1/2-Inch Wrench
Figure 5-25 Brake Rod Adjustment Figure 5-26 Accelerator Pedal Height Adjustment
PAR
K
PAR
K ST MICRO
BREAK
ST OP POINT
GO
OP G MICRO
BREAK
P OINT
O
000 0
1
000 0
DANGER
• See General Warnings on page 1-1.
WARNING
• See General Warnings on page 1-1.
Asbestos Dust Warning
• Some aftermarket brake shoes contain asbestos fiber, and asbestos dust is created when these brake
mechanisms are handled. Wear approved eye and respiratory protection when disassembling and
cleaning brake mechanisms. Inhalation of asbestos could result in severe personal injury or death. Do
not use compressed air or aerosol sprays to clean the brake mechanism. Clean brake mechanism
using the negative pressure enclosure/hepa vacuum system or low pressure/wet cleaning method per
OSHA/29 CFR - 1910.1001.
GENERAL INFORMATION
DS Golf Cars are equipped with self-adjusting, mechanically-expanding shoe drum brakes on each rear wheel.
See General Warnings on page 1-1. See also Asbestos Dust Warning on page 6-1.
1. Disconnect the battery cables and either discharge the controller or disconnect the spark plug wire(s). See
Disconnecting the Batteries – Electric Vehicles, Section 1, Page 1-5. See Disconnecting the Battery –
Gasoline Vehicles, Section 1, Page 1-3.
2. Place chocks at the front wheels. Loosen, but do not remove, lug nuts on rear wheels and lift the rear of the
vehicle with a chain hoist or floor jack. Place jack stands under the axle tubes to support the vehicle. See
WARNING “Lift only one end...” in General Warnings on page 1-1.
3. Loosen the equalizer retaining nuts (1) on the equalizer rod (2) to loosen the brake cable (Figure 6-1, Page 6-2).
4. Remove the rear wheels and brake drums. If the brake drums were easily removed, proceed to step 6. See
following CAUTION and NOTE.
CAUTION
• Worn or damaged brake drums cannot be machined to refinish them. Replace as necessary.
NOTE: When servicing vehicles with severely worn brake shoes and when the drums cannot be removed by normal
methods, proceed to step 5 to minimize damage to the brake cluster and brake components.
1
2
3
4
00
3
00
00
1
1400-18100-10209 1400-18100-10220
Figure 6-1 Loosen Brake Cables Figure 6-2 Shoe Retainer Pins
5.2. Insert a 1/2 inch x 5/8 inch cold chisel (1) under the head (2) of each pin and shear them off as illustrated
(Figure 6-2, Page 6-2). This will release the shoes from the backing plate, allowing them to pivot away
from the inside of the brake drum (3), which should then allow the brake drum to be pulled free. After
completing step 6, skip step 7. See following NOTE.
NOTE: Although step 6 allows easier access to the brake shoes, it is not imperative to do so in order to remove
the brake shoes.
1
0
2400-23600-10221
Figure 6-3 Remove Axle Retaining Ring
11 10
6
15 8
1 7
000
7 00000
6
00000
12
B
9
14
13
16
4
3 5 A 14
2
A. Electric Vehicle
B. Gasoline Vehicle
1332
Figure 6-4 Self-adjusting Wheel Brake Assembly
7. Using needle nose pliers, turn the clip retainer pin (1) 90° to remove the shoe retainer clip (2) (Figure 6-5, Page
6-4). See following CAUTION.
CAUTION
• The brake shoes are under pressure and can release suddenly when brake shoe retainers are removed.
8. Grasp both brake shoes and pull them, together with the springs, out of the brake assembly as shown (Figure
6-6, Page 6-4).
9. Remove adjuster wheel (1) with two washers (2 and 3) from the backing plate (Figure 6-7, Page 6-4).
2 00
00 00
00
1400-18100-10222 1400-17700-10225
Figure 6-5 Remove Shoe Retainer Clip Figure 6-6 Remove Brake Shoes
2
1
2
3
1. Slide
2. Slide Plate (If Equipped)
638 639
Figure 6-7 Remove Adjuster Wheel Figure 6-8 Lubricate Slide and Slide Plate
See General Warnings on page 1-1. See also Asbestos Dust Warning on page 6-1.
NOTE: Later model vehicles are no longer equipped with the slide plate.
1. Carefully clean the brake backing plate and all of its mechanical components.
2. Remove the rubber boot from backing plate and wipe with a clean damp cloth.
3. For vehicles equipped with a slide plate (2) (Figure 6-8, Page 6-4), lubricate the slide plate with dry moly
lubricant (P/N 1012151). For vehicles equipped without a slide plate (2), lubricate the backing plate, where the
slide operates, with dry moly lubricant (P/N 1012151).
4. Lubricate the slide (1) with dry moly lubricant (P/N 1012151). After lubricating, work slide back and forth against
backing plate to ensure that it slides smoothly and easily. Install rubber boot onto backing plate.
WARNING
• Apply grease carefully when performing the following steps. Do not allow any grease to get onto the
friction surfaces of the brake shoe pads or the brake drum. Failure to heed this warning could cause
diminished brake performance, possibly resulting in property damage or severe personal injury.
5. Use a small brush to carefully apply a light coat of white lithium NLGI #2 grease (Dow Corning® BR2-Plus or
equivalent) on each of the six raised bosses on the brake backing plate (Figure 6-9, Page 6-5). See preceding
WARNING.
6. Use a small brush to carefully apply a light coat of white lithium NLGI #2 grease (Dow Corning BR2-Plus or
equivalent) to each end of both brake shoes and into the slots in the brake shoe mounting block as shown
(Figure 6-10, Page 6-5). See preceding WARNING.
00 00
00 00
640 641
Figure 6-9 Apply Grease On Bosses Figure 6-10 Apply Grease To Brake Shoes and Slots
7. Use a small brush to carefully apply a light coat of white lithium NLGI #2 grease (Dow Corning BR2-Plus or
equivalent) to the brake adjuster assembly, adjuster wheel shoe slots, and the shaft of the adjuster wheel as
shown (Figure 6-11, Page 6-5). See preceding WARNING.
8. Install the adjuster wheel (1) and two washers (2 and 3) into the adjuster assembly (Figure 6-7, Page 6-4).
17T
00
642 643
Figure 6-11 Apply Grease To Brake Adjuster Figure 6-12 Install Adjuster Wheel, Trailing Shoe
See General Warnings on page 1-1. See also Asbestos Dust Warning on page 6-1.
1. Turn the adjusting wheel screw so that the shoe slot is vertical, then position the trailing shoe in the slots in the
shoe mounting block and adjuster assembly (Figure 6-12, Page 6-5). See following NOTE.
NOTE: The trailing shoe has 17T stamped into the tip of the shoe flange (Figure 6-12, Page 6-5). The leading shoe is
stamped 17L. When installing the shoes, the stamping on both shoes should be oriented to the top of the
brake assembly. When installing the shoes on the passenger side of the vehicle, the side of the trailing shoe
flange marked 17T should be facing out and be visible. On the driver side, the 17L on the leading shoe should
be facing out and be visible.
When installed on the backing plate, the leading shoe (stamped 17L) is always oriented toward the rear of
the vehicle.
2. Install the shoe retainer clip, using pliers to compress the clip (1) while turning the retainer pin (2) into position
(Figure 6-13, Page 6-6).
3. Attach the springs onto the trailing shoe already installed. Then hold the leading shoe next to the trailing shoe,
correctly oriented, and attach the springs to it (Figure 6-14, Page 6-6).
1 3
1
2
0
4
2
1. Bronze Spring 2. Silver Spring 3. Spring Coils 4. Note that the silver
spring is mounted with the coils to the side of the adjustment lever
spring (A).
644 645
Figure 6-13 Install Trailing Shoe Retainer Clip Figure 6-14 Attach Springs
4. While maintaining spring attachment on both shoes, position tips of leading shoe (1) in the mounting slots and
then push shoe into place. Hold shoe in position and install retaining clip (Figure 6-15, Page 6-7).
5. After the shoes are installed, move them together up and down and side to side to make sure that they will easily
slide approximately 1/4 to 3/8 inch (6.3 to 9.5 mm) without binding (Figure 6-16, Page 6-7).
1
A
00 0
00 00
00
B
00 00
646 647
Figure 6-15 Install Leading Shoe Figure 6-16 Check Shoe Positions
6. Place a flatblade screwdriver under the adjusting arm (1) and raise the arm off of the adjusting wheel (2). While
holding the arm (1) up, turn the wheel (2) upward until it stops (Figure 6-17, Page 6-7). Remove the screwdriver.
1 2
00
648
Figure 6-17 Set Adjusting Wheel
7. Install the rear axles into the transaxle. See following NOTE.
NOTE: There is a LEFT and RIGHT side axle. The splined portions on the axles that insert into the transaxle case are
two different lengths. The longest length spline is the LEFT, or driver side axle.
7.1. Insert the splined end of the axle shaft into the axle tube. Be careful not to damage the seal on the inside of
the axle tube hub. Advance the shaft through to the bearing on the shaft, and rotate it to align the shaft
splines with the splined bore of the differential gear. Continue advancing the shaft until the bearing on the
axle is firmly seated within the axle tube hub seat.
7.2. Using 90° internal snap ring pliers (0.090 tip) (CC P/N 1012560), attach the internal retaining ring into the
axle tube hub so that it seats against the axle bearing assembly and into the machined slot in the inside
wall of the axle tube hub (Figure 6-3, Page 6-2).
7.3. Place a 1/4 to 3/8 - inch (6 - 10 mm) diameter rod against the retaining ring and tap lightly at four or five
locations to ensure it is properly seated. See following WARNING and CAUTION.
WARNING
• Be sure retaining ring is properly seated in groove. If ring is not properly installed, the axle assembly
will separate from the transaxle and damage the axle assembly and other components. Loss of vehicle
control could result in severe personal injury or death.
CAUTION
• Before installing axle shaft, clean any residual oil from the exposed end of the axle tube and from
the oil seal area.
8. Install the brake drum, and make sure that it is properly seated. See following NOTE.
NOTE: If drum installation is difficult, the brake shoes may need to be adjusted vertically in the mounting slots.
9. After the drum is installed, make sure the axle and drum turn freely and then install the wheel. See Wheel
Installation on page 8-1.
10. Connect the battery cables. See Connecting the Battery – Gasoline Vehicles, Section 1, Page 1-3. See
Connecting the Batteries – Electric Vehicles, Section 1, Page 1-5.
BRAKE ADJUSTMENT
See General Warnings on page 1-1. See also Asbestos Dust Warning on page 6-1.
1. When cleaning or repair on both wheels is complete, and with the brake cable still loose, lower the vehicle
to the floor.
2. Make the brake shoe and drum adjustment by pressing and releasing the brake pedal repeatedly until an audible
clicking can no longer be heard.
3. Adjust brake pedal free play.
3.1. For gasoline vehicles: See Pedal Group Adjustment – Gasoline Vehicles on page 5-10.
3.2. For electric vehicles: See Pedal Group Adjustment – Electric Vehicles on page 5-15.
See General Warnings on page 1-1. See also Asbestos Dust Warning on page 6-1.
1. Disconnect the battery cables and either discharge the controller or disconnect the spark plug wire(s). See
Disconnecting the Batteries – Electric Vehicles, Section 1, Page 1-5. See Disconnecting the Battery –
Gasoline Vehicles, Section 1, Page 1-3.
2. Place chocks at the front wheels and loosen the lug nuts on the rear wheels. Lift the rear of the vehicle with a
chain hoist or floor jack. Place jack stands under the axle tubes to support the vehicle. See WARNING “Lift
only one end...” in General Warnings on page 1-1.
3. Loosen the brake cables, remove the rear wheel, remove the brake drum and axle shaft. See Brake Shoe
Removal on page 6-1.
4. Remove bow tie locking pin (13) and clevis pin (12) from brake cable (Figure 6-4, Page 6-3).
5. Remove four bolts (11) and lock nuts (10) that mount the brake assembly to the transaxle (Figure 6-4, Page 6-3).
6. Remove brake assembly from transaxle.
1. Install in reverse order of disassembly. Use new bow tie locking pins when installing brake cables. See following
CAUTION.
CAUTION
• Before installing axle shaft, clean any residual oil from the exposed end of the axle tube and from
the oil seal area.
2. Be sure bolts (11) (CC P/N 1014153) and new lock nuts (10) (CC P/N 1013924) are used to mount the brake
assembly (Figure 6-4, Page 6-3).
3. Tighten nuts to 17 ft-lb (23.0 N·m). If torquing the bolt heads, torque to 30 ft-lb (40.6 N·m).
4. Install the axle shaft, brake drum and rear wheel. See Brake Shoe Installation on page 6-6.
5. Tighten lug nuts on rear wheels, using a crisscross pattern, to 55 ft-lb (74.6 N·m). See Wheel Installation
on page 8-1.
6. Adjust the brakes. See Brake Adjustment on page 6-8.
See General Warnings on page 1-1. See also Asbestos Dust Warning on page 6-1.
1. Disconnect the battery cables and either discharge the controller or disconnect the spark plug wire(s). See
Disconnecting the Batteries – Electric Vehicles, Section 1, Page 1-5. See Disconnecting the Battery –
Gasoline Vehicles, Section 1, Page 1-3.
2. Place chocks at the front wheels.
3. Release the park brake if engaged and loosen equalizer retaining nuts (1) on equalizer rod (2) to slightly loosen
the brake cables (3) (Figure 6-1, Page 6-2).
4. Rotate the brake cable upward and pull cable end through hole in top of equalizer (4).
5. Remove E-clip securing front end of cable to frame crossmember and pull cable from crossmember.
6. Remove bow-tie pin (1) and the clevis pin (2) from the brake lever on each wheel and pull the clevis (4) away
from the lever (Figure 6-18, Page 6-10).
7. Remove E-clip (3) from cable at the cable support bracket (5). Remove cable from bracket.
8. Note routing of cable through hanger for installation of new cable. Pull cable from vehicle.
1
3
5
1400-18100-10243
Figure 6-18 Disconnect Cables at Rear Brakes
1. Place the end of the new cable into the equalizer (4) (Figure 6-1, Page 6-2). Secure the cable to the vehicle
frame with new E-clip. Route cable through hanger in the same manner as before.
2. At the rear wheel brake, connect the cable to the brake actuator arm using new clevis pin (2) and new bow-tie pin
(1) (Figure 6-18, Page 6-10).
3. Place the cable in the cable support bracket (5) and secure with new E-clip (3).
4. Adjust the brakes. See Brake Adjustment on page 6-8.
DANGER
• See General Warnings on page 1-1.
WARNING
• See General Warnings on page 1-1.
GENERAL INFORMATION
Steering is controlled through a rack and pinion steering assembly that is connected by a steering column to a steering
wheel. No manual adjustment to the rack and pinion gear assembly is required. A spring loaded self-adjusting
mechanism is incorporated into the assembly.
STEERING WHEEL
1. Disconnect the battery cables and either discharge the controller or disconnect the spark plug wire(s). See
Disconnecting the Batteries – Electric Vehicles, Section 1, Page 1-5. See Disconnecting the Battery –
Gasoline Vehicles, Section 1, Page 1-3.
2. Remove the two mounting screws (1) and plate (2) (Figure 7-1, Page 7-2).
3. Match mark the steering wheel (3) and steering column shaft (4) so when the steering wheel is removed it can
be placed back in exactly the same position on steering column shaft.
4. Loosen the steering wheel nut (5) and back it off approximately 1/4 inch (6 mm). Do not remove the nut.
5. Use the steering wheel puller (CC P/N 102061201) to remove steering wheel.
5.1. Place the puller anvil (6) through the top opening of the steering wheel (Figure 7-2, Page 7-2).
5.2. Insert the anvil feet through the two slots in the base plate (marked “B”) (7) as shown.
5.3. Rotate the anvil screw (8) clockwise until the base plate contacts the bottom of the steering wheel where it
attaches to the steering column.
5.4. Use a 1/2-inch drive air impact wrench to tighten the anvil screw (8) until the steering wheel breaks free
from the steering shaft.
5.5. Remove the steering wheel puller.
5.6. Remove the steering wheel nut (5) and the steering wheel (3) from the steering column (9) (Figure 7-1,
Page 7-2).
3 5
B
8
6
7
4
1
1500-18300-10252 1500-18300-10253
Figure 7-1 Steering Wheel Removal Figure 7-2 Steering Wheel Puller
1. Install the steering wheel (3) on the splines of the steering shaft (4). Be sure to align the match marks placed on
the wheel and steering column shaft in step 3 above (Figure 7-1, Page 7-2).
2. Install the steering wheel nut (5) and tighten to 156 in-lb (17.6 N·m).
3. Install the plate (2) and screws (1) (Figure 7-1, Page 7-2). Tighten screws to 16 in-lb (1.8 N·m).
4. Connect the battery cables. See Connecting the Battery – Gasoline Vehicles, Section 1, Page 1-3. See
Connecting the Batteries – Electric Vehicles, Section 1, Page 1-5.
STEERING COLUMN
34
28
32
31
33
20
21
27 18
19
25
16
17
12 14
22
15
17 30 000000
000000 0
0
13
000000 0
000000 0
16 000000
18 7
9 8 11
7
10
5
6
3
2
4
1
1500-18200-10254
Figure 7-3 Steering Column
3. Remove the center dash panel. See Key Switch Removal, Section 20, Page 20-1.
4. Remove the driver-side dash pocket.
4.1. If equipped, remove cup holder hardware and cup holder.
4.2. Remove the flange lock screw from the top of the dash pocket.
4.3. Drill out the two pop rivets holding the dash pocket in place.
4.4. Slide dash pocket out of vehicle.
5. Remove the upper bolt (2) and lock washer (3) from the universal joint (Figure 7-3, Page 7-3).
6. Remove the nuts (9), bolts (8 and 10), and washers (7 and 11) from the steering column mount (4 and 5)
(Figure 7-3, Page 7-3).
7. Remove the steering column from the vehicle.
1. Remove bolts (6) and mounts (4 and 5) from steering column. Remove boot (12) (Figure 7-3, Page 7-3).
2. While supporting steering column (20) on a workbench, remove snap ring (13) from shaft. See following NOTE.
NOTE: Do not allow the steering shaft to slide out of the steering tube when removing the snap ring.
1. Insert bearing seat (18) into both ends of steering tube (20). Place a block of wood on bearing seat and tap lightly
on block until bearing seat (18) is fully seated in steering tube (20) (Figure 7-4, Page 7-5).
2. Press the bearing (17) all the way into the bearing seat (18) using a steering column bearing press tool (CC P/N
1014264) or a metal tube approximately six inches (15.2 cm) long with a maximum outer diameter of 1-3/16
inches (3.3 cm) and a minimum inside diameter of 7/8 inch (2.2 cm). Be sure the bearing is installed in the bearing
seat as shown (Figure 7-4, Page 7-5) so the wedge (16) will ride against the inner race of the bearing.
3. Install the wedge (16), spring (15), washer (14), and snap ring (13) onto the bottom end of the steering shaft (19)
(Figure 7-4, Page 7-5).
4. Insert the shaft (19) from the bottom of the steering tube (20) (Figure 7-3, Page 7-3).
5. Turn the assembly over and place the shaft (19) on a bench. Install the wedge (16) and retaining ring (22) onto
the top of the shaft. Be sure the prongs on the retaining ring face up and away from the wedge. Use a steering
column retaining ring tool (CC P/N 1014259) to seat the retaining ring to the proper depth. Support end of tube
while pressing. If you do not have the recommended tool, use the same tube as was used in step 2 to press the
retaining ring onto the top of the shaft. The retaining ring should be pressed onto the shaft until 2 to 2-1/8 inches
(5.1-5.4 cm) of the shaft extends from the top of the bearing seat in the steering tube (Figure 7-5, Page 7-5).
1. Install boot (12). Reinstall mount (4 and 5) onto the end of the steering column. Tighten bolts (6) to 20 ft-lb (27
N·m) (Figure 7-3, Page 7-3).
2. For ease of assembly and to prevent corrosion, apply a light coat of anti-seize or lubricating compound to
both splined ends of the steering shaft.
13
18
22
14
20 16
15 1
1
20 19
18 (CCI P/N 1014264) 2-2 1/8 inches
(CCI P/N 1014264) (5.1-5.4 cm)
16 18
17 17
2 16
2
3 3
1. Step 1 1. Step 1
2. Step 2 2. Step 2
3. Step 3 3. Step 3
1500-18200-10255 1500-18200-10256
Figure 7-4 Steering Shaft – Bottom End Figure 7-5 Steering Shaft – Top End
3. Position the steering column assembly in the vehicle while inserting the steering column shaft into the upper
universal joint (1). The flat portion of the steering shaft spline (19) must be aligned with the bolt hole in the
universal joint (1) before sliding the spline into the universal joint. While holding the steering column in place,
attach it to the frame using bolts (8), washers (7), and nuts (9) (Figure 7-3, Page 7-3). Thread the nuts onto the
bolts but do not tighten them.
4. Install washer (11) and screw (10). Tighten to 20 ft-lb (27 N·m) (Figure 7-3, Page 7-3).
5. Install the bolt (2) and lock washer (3) on the upper universal joint and finger-tighten.
6. Tighten the two nuts (9) and bolts (8) to 18 ft-lb (24.4 N·m) (Figure 7-3, Page 7-3).
7. Tighten the bolt (2) on the upper universal joint to 15 ft-lb (20 N·m) (Figure 7-3, Page 7-3).
8. Check the other two bolts of the universal joint (1) to ensure that they are properly tightened to 15 ft-lb (20
N·m) (Figure 7-3, Page 7-3).
9. Reinstall dash pocket and related hardware.
10. Reinstall center dash panel in reverse order of disassembly. Make sure the key switch terminals do not touch the
frame and the center dash panel is properly seated and snapped into place.
11. Install front body and bumper. See Body and Trim, Section 4, Page 4-1.
STEERING ADJUSTMENT
1. Turn the steering wheel all the way to the right. Note the distance between the passenger side spindle stop (2)
and passenger side A-plate (3) (Figure 7-6, Page 7-8). The internal stop on the rack must reach its limit of travel
against rack and pinion housing at exactly the same time the spindle stops against the passenger side A-plate
(with vehicle wheels turned to the right). If simultaneous contact occurs, steering is in correct adjustment; proceed
to step 4. If simultaneous contact does not occur, proceed to step 2.
2. Loosen the nuts (27 and 29) and turn the drag link (28) (Figure 7-12, Page 7-10) to adjust the drag link rod.
Adjust the link rod with the steering wheel turned all the way to the right, so the passenger side spindle stop
lightly touches the passenger side A-plate. The internal stop on the rack must reach its limit of travel at the
same time the spindle stops against the passenger side A-plate (with vehicle wheels turned to the right). See
following CAUTION.
CAUTION
• The drag link has both left and right-hand threads. The end of the drag link toward the spindle has
left-hand threads, and the end toward the rack has right-hand threads. To prevent damage to threaded
parts, care should be taken when servicing the drag link.
3. When all adjustments have been completed, tighten the nuts (27 and 29) on the drag link assembly with an open
end wrench. Tighten nuts to 21 ft-lb (28.4 N·m) (Figure 7-12, Page 7-10).See following CAUTION.
CAUTION
• When tightening the nuts (27 and 29), make sure the drag link (28) does not turn (Figure 7-12, Page
7-10).
4. Straighten wheels and turn steering wheel from lock to lock. Wheels should turn smoothly and easily. If steering
wheel does not turn smoothly and easily, inspect steering assemblies as follows:
– ball joints (23) (Figure 7-12, Page 7-10) and (6 and 13) (Figure 7-21, Page 7-19)
– spindle bushings (3 and 4) (Figure 7-22, Page 7-20)
– wave washers (20) (Figure 7-22, Page 7-20)
– rack assembly (17) (Figure 7-12, Page 7-10)
5. Also inspect front suspension assemblies as follows:
– A-plates (1) (Figure 7-21, Page 7-19)
– urethane bushings (2) (Figure 7-21, Page 7-19)
– leaf springs (6) (Figure 7-22, Page 7-20)
6. Replace components as necessary.
CAUTION
• Front impacts that bend tie rods and/or drag links can possibly damage internal steering gear
components. See Rack and Pinion Inspection on page 7-7. The manufacturer recommends inspecting
the rack and pinion and replacing if damaged.
Look for obvious damage to the chassis, where the rack and pinion is mounted, and the rack and pinion housing.
Particularly check the housing for broken mounting points.
Compare the toe-in against the specification. See Toe-in Adjustment on page 7-17.
If obvious visible damage is found, such as a bent tie rod, check the steering gear for abnormal free-play, noise, binding
or clunking while it is under a load. With the steering system fully assembled and all four tires on the ground/floor,
turn the steering wheel from stop to stop. While turning, feel for any binding, clunking or tight/loose spots. Listen for
unusual noises. Replace the rack and pinion as an assembly if any is found.
In the event of an known impact and obvious visible damage is not found in the method described above, disconnect
the tie rods and/or drag links from the spindles. Turn the steering wheel from stop to stop. While turning, feel for any
binding or tight/loose spots. Listen for unusual noises. Replace the rack and pinion as an assembly if any is found.
1. Remove the front body. See Front Body Removal, Section 4, Page 4-6.
2. Remove the cotter pin (22) and ball joint retaining nut (25) (Figure 7-12, Page 7-10).
3. Using a ball joint removal tool (Figure 7-7, Page 7-7), remove the ball joint (23) (Figure 7-12, Page 7-10)
from the spindle assembly.
4. Remove the bolts (30), washers (31), and lock nuts (32) from the steering rack assembly mounting bracket
(Figure 7-12, Page 7-10).
5. Remove the bolt (2) and flat washer (3) on the upper universal joint, then remove the rack assembly and universal
joint from the vehicle (Figure 7-3, Page 7-3).
2 3
1500-0-10257 1500-0-10258
Figure 7-6 Adjust Steering Alignment Figure 7-7 Ball Joint Tool
1. Remove the front body. See Front Body Removal, Section 4, Page 4-6.
2. Remove the drag link ball joint retaining nut (25) (Figure 7-13, Page 7-11).
3. Remove the outer drag link ball joint (23) from the spindle assembly (33) and inspect for excessive wear and
seal damage.
4. Remove the bolts (30), washers (31), and lock nuts (32) from the steering rack assembly mounting bracket
(Figure 7-13, Page 7-11).
5. Remove the bolt (2) and flat washer (3) on the upper universal joint, then remove the rack assembly and universal
joint from the vehicle (Figure 7-3, Page 7-3).
2 3
1838
Figure 7-8 Adjust Steering Alignment
CAUTION
• The ball joint (23) (Figure 7-12, Page 7-10) has left-hand threads.
1. Remove ball joint from the spindle and inspect it for excessive wear (Figure 7-7, Page 7-7).
2. Remove the drag link (28) (Figure 7-12, Page 7-10) (Figure 7-13, Page 7-11).
3. Remove both bellows clamps (2) (plastic wire ties).
4. Remove the hex nut (29) and slide off the dust seal bellows (1).
5. Remove the retaining ring (21), then slide off dust seal bellows (20).
6. Remove the rack screw lock nut (15), rack guide screw (16), rack guide pressure spring (14), and the rack guide
(13) (Figure 7-12, Page 7-10) (Figure 7-13, Page 7-11).
7. Remove the universal joint assembly from the pinion (8) by fully removing the bolt and then sliding off the
universal joint.
1500-18400-10259 1500-18400-10260
Figure 7-9 Remove Pinion from Housing Figure 7-10 Remove Bearing from Pinion
8. If necessary, remove the dust seal (12). See following NOTE.
NOTE: If the dust seal (12) is removed, replace with a new one.
9. Use snap ring pliers to remove the internal snap ring (11) (Figure 7-12, Page 7-10) (Figure 7-13, Page 7-11).
10. Install the universal joint onto the pinion and place a large open end wrench under the universal joint (Figure 7-9,
Page 7-9). Use the wrench as a lever to pull the pinion from the housing.
11. If the ball bearing (9) has been damaged, remove the external snap ring (10) (Figure 7-12, Page 7-10) (Figure
7-13, Page 7-11) and press the bearing off (Figure 7-10, Page 7-9).
12. Remove retaining ring (19) and stop washer (18), then remove rack (17) from housing (6) (Figure 7-12, Page
7-10) (Figure 7-13, Page 7-11).
13. If the inner ball joint (3) is excessively worn, remove the ball joint and tab washer (4) from the rack (Figure
7-11, Page 7-9).
13.1. Secure the rack in a vise using wood blocks (5) between the rack and the jaws of the vise to protect
the rack from damage (Figure 7-11, Page 7-9).
13.2.Loosen and remove the inner ball joint with a wrench.
3
4
1500-18400-10261
Figure 7-11 Secure Rack in Vise
14. Inspect the bushing (5) for excessive wear. If wear is excessive, replace the steering box assembly (CC P/N
101878302) (Figure 7-12, Page 7-10) (Figure 7-13, Page 7-11).
1. Install a new tab washer (4) and an inner ball joint (3) (Figure 7-11, Page 7-9). Install the ball joint onto the rack
by securing the rack in a vise using wood blocks between the rack and the jaws of the vise to protect the rack
from damage. Tighten the ball joint to 60 ft-lb (81 N·m).
2. Bend the edges of the tab washer (4) up against the ball joint (3) (Figure 7-11, Page 7-9).
3. Apply a light coating of EP grease to the teeth of the rack (17), then slide the rack through the bushing (5) and
housing (6). Install the stop washer (18) and retaining ring (19) to the end of the rack (Figure 7-12, Page
7-10) (Figure 7-13, Page 7-11).
23 27
24
28
29
1
2
26 3
4
33
25 12
22
11
10
5 9
6 8
7
13
14
15 16
30
31
32
20
21
17
18
19
2
1500-18400-10262
Figure 7-12 Steering Gear – Conventional Ball Joints
23
27
28
29
1
2
3
4
33
25
12
11
10
5 9
6 8
7
13
14
15 16
30
31
32
20
21
17
18
19
2
1839
Figure 7-13 Steering Gear – Maintenance-Free Ball Joints
CAUTION
• In step 4, do not press against the outer race of the bearing.
4. If the bearing (9) was removed, press on a new bearing, exerting all pressure on the inner race (grease the
bearing before installing it). Then install the external snap ring (10) (Figure 7-12, Page 7-10) (Figure 7-13,
Page 7-11). See preceding CAUTION.
5. If the needle bearing (7) is damaged, the steering box assembly (CC P/N 101878302) must be replaced (Figure
7-12, Page 7-10) (Figure 7-13, Page 7-11).
6. Install pinion (8) and bearing (9) assembly into the housing (6) (Figure 7-12, Page 7-10) (Figure 7-13, Page
7-11). Make sure the rack gear teeth will mesh with the gear teeth on the pinion. The rack may need to be rotated
slightly while lightly tapping on the pinion-bearing assembly with a rubber mallet. See following CAUTION.
CAUTION
• Do not force the pinion-bearing assembly into the housing. The gear teeth or the small bearing
could be damaged.
15
16
1500-18400-10263 1500-18400-10264
Figure 7-14 Press In Dust Seal Figure 7-15 Rack and Pinion Adjustment
2
3
1
1500-18400-10265
Figure 7-16 Rack and Pinion Resistance
7. Install the internal snap ring (11) (Figure 7-12, Page 7-10) (Figure 7-13, Page 7-11).
8. Using an appropriate size deep well socket (1) to apply pressure evenly, press in a new dust seal (2) (Figure
7-14, Page 7-12).
9. Apply a small amount of grease to the rack guide (13) where it comes into contact with the rack (17) (Figure
7-12, Page 7-10) (Figure 7-13, Page 7-11).
10. Place a few drops of Loctite® 222 to the threads of the screw (16) (Figure 7-12, Page 7-10) (Figure 7-13,
Page 7-11).
NOTE: When tightening the lock nut (15) make sure the screw (16) does not change adjustment (Figure 7-15,
Page 7-12).
12. Install the dust seal bellows (20) and retaining ring (21) (Figure 7-12, Page 7-10) (Figure 7-13, Page 7-11).
13. Install the dust seal bellows (1) and hex nut (29) (Figure 7-12, Page 7-10) (Figure 7-13, Page 7-11).
14. Install the universal joint on the pinion. Tighten the bolt to 15 ft-lb (20 N·m).
15. Install new bellows clamps (wire ties) (2) (Figure 7-12, Page 7-10) (Figure 7-13, Page 7-11).
16. Install the drag link (28) by fully threading the ground end into the inner ball joint (3). See following CAUTION.
CAUTION
• The ball joint (23) (Figure 7-12, Page 7-10) (Figure 7-13, Page 7-11) has left-hand threads.
• The tie rod and drag link have right-hand threads on one end and left-hand threads on the other end.
Right-hand threads are identified by a groove in the tie rod or drag link.
17. Install the ball joint (23) (Figure 7-12, Page 7-10) (Figure 7-13, Page 7-11). See preceding CAUTION.
1. Position the steering gear box assembly on the shock and gear support and install the bolts (30), washers (31),
and nuts (32). Do not tighten the mounting bolts (Figure 7-12, Page 7-10).
2. For ease of assembly and to prevent corrosion, apply a light coat of anti-seize and lubricating compound to the
splined end of the steering column shaft.
3. Align the flat portion of the steering shaft spline with the bolt hole in the universal joint and then slide the shaft
into the upper universal joint. Install the bolt and lock washer on the upper universal joint and tighten it to
15 ft-lb (20 N·m).
4. Tighten the steering rack mounting bolts (30) to 22 ft-lb (29.8 N·m) (Figure 7-12, Page 7-10).
5. Adjust the steering. See Steering Adjustment on page 7-5.
1. Position the steering gear box assembly on the shock and gear support and install the bolts (30), washers (31),
and nuts (32). Do not tighten the mounting bolts (Figure 7-13, Page 7-11).
2. For ease of assembly and to prevent corrosion, apply a light coat of anti-seize and lubricating compound to the
splined end of the steering column shaft.
3. Align the flat portion of the steering shaft spline with the bolt hole in the universal joint and then slide the shaft
into the upper universal joint. Install the bolt and lock washer on the upper universal joint and tighten it to
15 ft-lb (20 N·m).
4. Tighten the steering rack mounting bolts (30) to 22 ft-lb (29.8 N·m) (Figure 7-13, Page 7-11).
5. Install the drag link ball joint (23) on the spindle arm riser (33) and secure with retaining nut (25). Tighten nut to
40 ft-lb (54 N·m).
6. Adjust the steering. See Steering Adjustment on page 7-5.
1. Using locking pliers to hold tie rod and drag link, loosen jam nuts (7 and 12) on tie rod ball joints (Figure 7-21,
Page 7-19)and loosen jam nuts (27 and 29) on the drag link (Figure 7-12, Page 7-10).
2. Remove the cotter pins (22) and ball joint retaining nuts (20) (Figure 7-21, Page 7-19).
3. Use a ball joint removal tool to remove ball joints (13 and 6) (Figure 7-21, Page 7-19) and (23) (Figure 7-12,
Page 7-10) from the spindles.
4. Remove the ball joints from the tie rod (11) (Figure 7-21, Page 7-19).
5. Remove drag link (28) from inner ball joint assembly (3) and drag link ball joint (23) (Figure 7-12, Page 7-10).
1. Thread ball joints (6 and 13) into tie rod (11) to a depth of 1/2-inch (12.5 mm) (Figure 7-21, Page 7-19). See
following WARNING and CAUTION.
WARNING
• The ball joints must be threaded into the rod at least 5/16 of an inch (8 mm). Failure to thread ball
joints in deep enough may cause a ball joint to separate from the rod during adjustment or while being
operated, possibly resulting in loss of vehicle control and severe personal injury.
CAUTION
• The tie rod and drag link have right-hand threads on one end and left-hand threads on the other end.
Right-hand threads are identified by a groove in the tie rod or drag link.
2. Install ball joint ends (6 and 13) into the left and right-hand spindle arms (23), then install the retaining nuts
(20) and cotter pins (22) (Figure 7-21, Page 7-19).
3. Thread the drag link rod (28) all the way onto the threaded stud of the inner ball joint assembly (3) (right-hand
threads) (Figure 7-12, Page 7-10).
4. Thread the ball joint (23) into the drag link rod (28) (left-hand threads) to full thread depth (Figure 7-12, Page
7-10).
1. Using locking pliers to hold tie rod and drag link, loosen jam nuts (7 and 12) on tie rod ball joints (Figure 7-21,
Page 7-19)and loosen jam nuts (27 and 29) on the drag link (Figure 7-12, Page 7-10).
2. Remove the ball joint retaining nuts (20) (Figure 7-21, Page 7-19).
3. Remove ball joints (13 and 6) (Figure 7-21, Page 7-19) and (23) (Figure 7-12, Page 7-10) from the spindles.
4. Remove the ball joints from the tie rod (11) (Figure 7-21, Page 7-19).
5. Remove drag link (28) from inner ball joint assembly (3) and drag link ball joint (23) (Figure 7-12, Page 7-10).
1. Thread ball joints (6 and 13) into tie rod (11) to a depth of 1/2-inch (12.5 mm) (Figure 7-21, Page 7-19). See
following WARNING and CAUTION.
WARNING
• The ball joints must be threaded into the rod at least 5/16 of an inch (8 mm). Failure to thread ball
joints in deep enough may cause a ball joint to separate from the rod during adjustment or while being
operated, possibly resulting in loss of vehicle control and severe personal injury.
CAUTION
• The tie rod and drag link have right-hand threads on one end and left-hand threads on the other end.
Right-hand threads are identified by a groove in the tie rod or drag link.
2. Attach the tie rod ball joints (6 and 13) to the spindle tabs (23), then install and tighten the nuts (20) to 40
ft-lb (54 N·m) (Figure 7-21, Page 7-19).
3. Thread the drag link rod (28) all the way onto the threaded stud of the inner ball joint assembly (3) (right-hand
threads) (Figure 7-12, Page 7-10).
4. Thread the ball joint (23) into the drag link rod (28) (left-hand threads) to full thread depth (Figure 7-12, Page
7-10).
5. Install the drag link ball joint (23) on the spindle arm riser (33) and secure with retaining nut (25) (Figure 7-12,
Page 7-10). Tighten nut to 40 ft-lb (54 N·m).
6. Adjust camber and toe-in. See Camber Adjustment on page 7-16 and Toe-in Adjustment on page 7-17.
7. Adjust steering. See Steering Adjustment on page 7-5.
FRONT SUSPENSION
LUBRICATION
Two grease fittings (early 2010 to 2011 model year – one in each spindle housing) or five grease fittings (2009 to
early 2010 model year – one in each spindle housing, one in the ball joint on each end of the tie rod, and one in
the ball joint of the steering drag link) are provided. Lubricate these fittings at the recommended interval with the
proper lubricant. See Periodic Lubrication Schedules, Section 10, Page 10-6.
CAUTION
• To ensure proper lubrication of the front suspension and steering linkages, raise front of vehicle to
lubricate. See General Warnings on page 1-1.
WHEEL ALIGNMENT
Wheel alignment is limited to equalizing the camber angle of each front wheel and adjusting toe-in of the front wheels.
There is also a drag link adjustment to equalize the turning radius in both directions. See Steering Adjustment on
page 7-5. See following NOTE.
NOTE: Prior to making any front suspension adjustments, inspect components for wear and damage and repair or
replace as necessary.
Camber Adjustment
1. Check each front wheel with a framing square. At the floor (or ground), there should be an equal amount of space
between each tire and the framing square (Figure 7-17, Page 7-16).
2. Loosen, but do not remove, the four nuts (32) that secure the leaf spring (6) to the bottom spring plate (29)
(Figure 7-22, Page 7-20). See also Figure 7-18, Page 7-16.
32
1
A A 7
B A
NOTE: The front measurement must be less than the rear measurement.
5. Subtract the measurement on the front of the tires from the measurement on the rear of the tires. The difference
is the toe-in. Proper toe-in is 1/8 to 3/8 of an inch (3.2 to 9.5 mm).
6. If adjustment is necessary, loosen the jam nut on each tie rod ball joint and rotate the tie rod to increase or
decrease toe-in (Figure 7-20, Page 7-17). See following CAUTION.
CAUTION
• The tie rod has right-hand threads on one end and left-hand threads on the other end. Right-hand
threads are identified by a groove in the tie rod.
7. Tighten nuts (loosened in step 6) to 21 ft-lb (28 N·m) and recheck toe-in.
8. After toe-in adjustment is made and with wheels in the straight ahead position, the steering wheel should be at
the center of its travel. There should be equal travel to the left and right. See following NOTE.
NOTE: If the minimum turning radius is not the same for both left and right turns, adjust the steering. See Steering
Adjustment on page 7-5.
1. Disconnect the battery cables and either discharge the controller or disconnect the spark plug wire(s). See
Disconnecting the Batteries – Electric Vehicles, Section 1, Page 1-5. See Disconnecting the Battery –
Gasoline Vehicles, Section 1, Page 1-3.
2. Remove both front wheels. See Wheel Removal, Section 8, Page 8-1.
3. Remove the nuts (14) and bolts (25) from the bottom of each king pin (26) (Figure 7-22, Page 7-20).
4. Remove the four bolts (30), four nuts (32), four lock washers (31), and bottom spring plate (29).
5. Remove tapered leaf spring (6).
6. Check the condition of the urethane bushings (27) and steel sleeves (28). Replace any that are worn or damaged.
1. Install urethane bushings (27) and steel sleeves (28) into leaf spring eyes (Figure 7-22, Page 7-20).
2. Install tapered leaf spring (6), bottom spring plate (29), four bolts (30), four lock washers (31), and four nuts (32).
Using a crisscross pattern sequence, tighten bolts to 23 ft-lb (31 N·m).
3. Install spring in king pins (26) with bolts (25) and nuts (14). Tighten to 23 ft-lb (31 N·m).
4. Install the wheels and lower the vehicle. See Wheel Installation, Section 8, Page 8-1.
5. Adjust camber and toe-in. See Camber Adjustment on page 7-16 and Toe-in Adjustment on page 7-17.
1. Remove the front hub. See Front Hub Removal on page 7-25.
2. Remove cotter pins (22) and nuts (20), then remove ball joints from the spindles (Figure 7-21, Page 7-19).
Remove drag link ball joint. See also Tie Rod and Drag Link Removal – Conventional Ball Joints on page
7-14.
3. Remove the lock nut (17) and conical washer (34) from the top of the kingpin (26) (Figure 7-22, Page 7-20).
4. Raise the upper clevis (16) from the kingpin.
5. Remove the flat washer (33) and thrust washer (19).
6. Slide the spindle off the kingpin (26).
7. Remove the wave washer (20) and inspect it. If the washer is broken or has a wave bottom to wave crest height
dimension of less than 0.040 inch (0.10 cm), it must be replaced.
8. Remove bolt (25) and nut (14) from bottom of kingpin (26) and remove kingpin.
9. Inspect the kingpin and spindle. If either is worn or damaged, it must be replaced.
10. Inspect the bushings (3 and 4). If the bushings are worn or damaged, remove them and press in new ones.
See following NOTE.
NOTE: If the bushings are replaced, ream new bushings to 0.750-0.752 (3/4 inch) (19.05-19.10 mm) in diameter. The
reamer should be long enough to ream both bushings from one direction.
13 18
12
9
5
8
11 10
9 7
6
2
19
14 15
5
10
4
2 2
3
14 2
5
2 1 24
4
2
16
17 5
23
20
22
1374
Figure 7-21 Front Suspension – Upper Portion
15
17
34
14 16
2 33
19
30
3
5
26 25 1 9
4
14
20
7
8 23
13
31 27
29
32 6
28
27
1375
Figure 7-22 Front Suspension – Lower Portion
1. Remove the front hub. See Front Hub Removal on page 7-25.
2. Remove nuts (20) and remove ball joints from spindles (Figure 7-23, Page 7-22). Remove drag link ball joint.
See also Tie Rod and Drag Link Removal – Maintenance-Free Ball Joints on page 7-15.
3. Remove the lock nut (17) and conical washer (34) from the top of the kingpin (26) (Figure 7-24, Page 7-23).
4. Raise the upper clevis (16) from the kingpin.
5. Remove the flat washer (33) and thrust washer (19).
6. Slide the spindle off the kingpin (26).
7. Remove the wave washer (20) and inspect it. If the washer is broken or has a wave bottom to wave crest height
dimension of less than 0.040 inch (0.10 cm), it must be replaced.
8. Remove bolt (25) and nut (14) from bottom of kingpin (26) and remove kingpin.
9. Inspect the kingpin and spindle. If either is worn or damaged, it must be replaced.
10. Inspect the bushings (3 and 4). If the bushings are worn or damaged, remove them and press in new ones.
See following NOTE.
NOTE: If the bushings are replaced, ream new bushings to 0.750-0.752 (3/4 inch) (19.05-19.10 mm) in diameter. The
reamer should be long enough to ream both bushings from one direction.
13
12 18
9
5
8
10
11 7
9 6
2
14 15
5
10
4
2 2
3
14 2
5
2 1 24
4
2
16
17 5
23
20
2448
Figure 7-23 Front Suspension – Upper Portion
15
17
34
14 16
2 33
19
30
3
5
26 25 1 9
4
14
20
7
8 23
13
31 27
29
32 6
28
27
2449
Figure 7-24 Front Suspension – Lower Portion
2. Install the kingpin (26) over the leaf spring eye. Insert the bolt (25) and install the nut (14) (Figure 7-24, Page
7-23). Tighten the bolt to 23 ft-lb (31 N·m).
3. Install the wave washer (20).
4. Install the steering spindle on the kingpin. Then install the thrust washer (19), flat washer (33), upper plate clevis
(16), conical washer (34), and nut (17). Tighten the nut to 65 ft-lb (88 N·m).
5. Attach the tie rod ball joints (6 and 13) to the spindle tabs, then install and tighten the nuts (20) to 40 ft-lb (54
N·m) (Figure 7-23, Page 7-22).
6. Install the drag link ball joint. See Tie Rod and Drag Link Installation – Maintenance-Free Ball Joints on
page 7-15.
7. Install front hub and wheel. See Front Hub Installation on page 7-25.
1. Install the A-Plate in reverse order of removal. Tighten the A-Plate suspension bolts (10 and 24) to 20 ft-lb (27
N·m) (Figure 7-21, Page 7-19).
2. Tighten shock absorber mounting nut (9) to 20 ft-lb (27.1 N·m).
3. Install the wheel(s). See Wheel Installation, Section 8, Page 8-1.
4. Adjust the wheel alignment. See Wheel Alignment on page 7-16.
1. Inspect the shock absorbers for fluid leakage at the point where the shaft enters the shock absorber body.
Leaking shock absorbers should be replaced.
2. Remove the nut (9) attaching the shock absorber to the A-Plate (Figure 7-21, Page 7-19).
3. Remove the nut (32) and bolt (8) attaching the shock absorber to the shock and gear support.
4. Remove the shock absorber.
NOTE: The front wheel bearings are pressed into the spindle and are not serviceable. If excessive free-play is
detected the entire hub should be replaced.
1. Clean and apply a light coat of anti-seize lubricant to the spindle shaft (3).
2. Slide the hub assembly (9) onto the spindle shaft (Figure 7-25, Page 7-26).
3. Install a new flanged lock nut (11) and tighten to 50 ft-lb (68 N·m).
4. Rotate the hub. The hub should rotate smoothly without binding, side play, or any indication of rough spots.
5. Repeat the procedure for the opposite wheel.
6. Install wheels and finger-tighten lug nuts.
7. Lower the vehicle and finish tightening lug nuts, using a crisscross pattern. See Wheel Installation, Section
8, Page 8-1.
9
3
11
678
Figure 7-25 Front Wheel Hub
DANGER
• See General Warnings on page 1-1.
WARNING
• See General Warnings on page 1-1.
GENERAL INFORMATION
Maximum tire life and good vehicle handling qualities are directly related to proper wheel and tire care.
• Keep tires properly inflated. See Section 2 – Vehicle Specifications.
• Keep lug nuts properly tightened.
• Keep the front end aligned and adjusted.
WARNING
• Tires affect vehicle handling. When selecting a replacement tire, use only original equipment or
comparable tires.
WHEELS
WHEEL REMOVAL
1. Disconnect the battery cables and either discharge the controller or disconnect the spark plug wire(s). See
Disconnecting the Batteries – Electric Vehicles, Section 1, Page 1-5. See Disconnecting the Battery –
Gasoline Vehicles, Section 1, Page 1-3.
2. Slightly loosen the lug nuts on the wheel to be removed.
3. Raise the end of the vehicle from which the wheel is to be removed. Make sure that the wheels are off the
ground. See General Warnings on page 1-1.
4. Remove the lug nuts and remove the wheel.
WHEEL INSTALLATION
1. Install wheel(s) and tighten the lug nuts, using a crisscross pattern, until they are snug.
2. Lower the vehicle and finish tightening lug nuts, using a crisscross pattern, to 55 ft-lb (74.6 N·m).
3. Connect the battery cables. See Connecting the Battery – Gasoline Vehicles, Section 1, Page 1-3. See
Connecting the Batteries – Electric Vehicles, Section 1, Page 1-5.
TIRES
TIRE REMOVAL
NOTE: Tire must be removed or installed from the valve stem side of the rim.
1. Remove the tire and wheel assembly from the vehicle as instructed above.
2. Remove the valve cap and valve core and allow air to escape from the tire.
3. If possible, use a tire machine to remove the tire from the rim.
3.1. If a tire machine is not available, loosen both tire beads by applying pressure to the tire side walls and
pushing the tire bead away from the rim flange and into the rim well (Figure 8-1, Page 8-2, Detail A).
3.2. With the valve stem side of the wheel up, use a tire tool to carefully start the upper bead over the edge of
the wheel rim (Figure 8-1, Page 8-2, Detail B).
CAUTION
• To avoid damage to the tire, do not use excessive force when starting the bead over the edge of the rim.
4. When top bead is free of the rim, pull the bead from the bottom side of the rim up into the upper part of the rim
well. Insert the tire tool under the lower bead as shown (Figure 8-1, Page 8-2, Detail C) and carefully pry the
lower bead over the rim flange.
5. Once the lower bead is started over the rim flange, the tire can be removed from the rim by hand.
6
1
3
2
5
A B C
1. Upper Tire Beads 2. Lower Tire Beads 3. Rim Flange 4. Tire Beads Positioned In Rim Well 5. Valve Stem Side Up 6. Tire Tool
679
Figure 8-1 Tire Removal
TIRE REPAIR
NOTE: An air leak could be due to a punctured casing, faulty valve core, improperly seated valve stem, or improperly
seated tire bead.
Small holes in the casing can be plugged using a standard automotive tubeless tire repair kit available
at your local Club Car dealer.
2. When the cause of the air leak has been determined, remove tire from the rim and repair as required. See Tire
Removal on page 8-2.
TIRE INSTALLATION
WARNING
• While mounting or inflating tire, keep hands, fingers, etc. from exposed areas between the tire bead
and rim.
NOTE: Because tubeless tires require a perfect seal in order to seat, keeping the tire and rim clean is very important.
3. Apply a liberal amount of tire-mounting lubricant (soap and water solution) to both tire beads and rim flanges.
4. Install the tire on the rim from the valve stem side. If there is no tire machine available, use a rubber mallet
and tire iron.
5. Remove the valve core, and position tire so that both beads are on the rim flange narrow bead seats.
6. Place tire and wheel assembly against wall in upright position and push it against wall while inflating tire to 30-35
psi (2.07-2.42 Bars). The three-point contact (wall, floor, and hand) will help ensure that beads snap into place
and form a proper seal as tire is inflated (Figure 8-2, Page 8-4). See following WARNING.
WARNING
• Do not use a compressed air source with pressure over 100 psi (6.90 Bars). Due to low pressure
requirements of a small tire, over-inflation could be reached almost instantly with a high pressure air
supply. Over-inflation could cause tire to explode, possibly resulting in severe personal injury.
7. Quickly remove the air nozzle and install the valve core.
8. Adjust air pressure in tire to recommended pressure. See Section 2 – Vehicle Specifications.
9. Immerse the wheel and tire assembly in water to make sure there are no leaks.
680
Figure 8-2 Inflate Tire
DANGER
• See General Warnings on page 1-1.
WARNING
• See General Warnings on page 1-1.
GENERAL INFORMATION
The rear suspension and powertrain of the vehicle move independently from the vehicle frame. It consists of two leaf
springs controlled by two shock absorbers mounted between the springs and the vehicle frame.
SHOCK ABSORBERS
1. Check shock absorbers (7) for damage or fluid leakage at the point where the shaft enters the shock absorber
body. Replace damaged or leaking shock absorbers (Figure 9-1, Page 9-2).
2. To remove a shock absorber, remove the nut (5), cup washers (9) and rubber bushings (10) from the stem at
the top of the shock absorber.
3. Remove the nut (5), cup washers (9), and rubber bushings (10) from lower mounting stem.
4. Compress the shock absorber to remove it.
A
B
17
17
15
2
11
4
3
15
4
7
4
3 1
12 15
16 9
4
14 10
8 3
9 4
A. Brake Cable Hanger Mounting – Gasoline Vehicle Only B. Brake Cable Hanger Mounting – Electric Vehicle Only
1308
Figure 9-1 Rear Suspension Assembly and Mounting
LEAF SPRINGS
1. Disconnect the battery cables and either discharge the controller or disconnect the spark plug wire(s). See
Disconnecting the Batteries – Electric Vehicles, Section 1, Page 1-5. See Disconnecting the Battery –
Gasoline Vehicles, Section 1, Page 1-3.
2. Loosen, but do not remove, lug nuts on tire and wheel assembly on the side from which the spring is to be
removed. Place chocks at the front wheels and lift the rear of the vehicle with a chain hoist or floor jack. Position
jack stands under the frame crossmember between the spring mount and the side stringer, just forward of each
rear wheel. Lower the vehicle to let the jack stands support the vehicle (Figure 9-2, Page 9-4). See following
WARNING.
WARNING
• Lift only one end of the vehicle at a time. Use a suitable lifting device (chain hoist or hydraulic floor
jack) with 1000 lb. (454 kg) minimum lifting capacity. Do not use lifting device to hold vehicle in raised
position. Use approved jack stands of proper weight capacity to support the vehicle and chock
the wheels that remain on the floor. When not performing a test or service procedure that requires
movement of the wheels, lock the brakes.
3. Place a floor jack under the transaxle differential casing to support (but not lift) the drivetrain. Raise it just enough
to relieve tension on the shock absorbers without compressing them.
4. Remove the tire and wheel assembly on the side from which the spring is to be removed.
5. Remove the bow-tie pin (1) and the clevis pin (2) at the brake lever and brake cable connection and pull the
clevis (4) away from the lever (Figure 9-3, Page 9-4). Remove the retaining clip (3) and pull the brake cable
from the shock mount bracket (5).
6. Remove the nut (5), cup washers (9), and rubber bushings (10) from the lower mounting stem of the shock
absorber (Figure 9-1, Page 9-2).
7. Remove the nuts (14) and the U-bolt (11) securing the spring to the transaxle. Remove the shock mount bracket
(16) and the U-bolt.
8. Remove the nut (2) and bolt (15) attaching the rear spring to the shackle (1).
9. Remove the nut (2) and bolt (15) attaching the front of the spring to the vehicle frame and remove the spring.
10. Inspect the bushings (4) and spacers (3) in the spring eyes and replace them if they are worn or damaged.
1
3
5
2600-30000-10369 1400-18100-10243
Figure 9-2 Support Vehicle on Jack Stands Figure 9-3 Disconnect Brake Cable
1. To install the springs, reverse the removal procedure. See following CAUTION.
CAUTION
• When positioning the spring on the transaxle, be sure to insert the locating bolt on the spring in the
locating hole in the transaxle saddle.
GENERAL INFORMATION
To ensure trouble-free vehicle performance, it is very important to follow an established preventive maintenance
program. Regular and consistent vehicle maintenance can prevent vehicle downtime and expensive repairs that can
result from neglect. Any vehicle not functioning correctly should be removed from use until it is properly repaired. This
will prevent further damage to the vehicle and avoid the possibility of injury due to unsafe conditions.
Contact your local Club Car distributor/dealer to perform all repairs and semiannual and annual periodic service.
Each Club Car vehicle has been thoroughly inspected and adjusted at the factory; however, upon receiving your new
vehicle(s), you should become familiar with its controls, indicators, and operation. Carefully inspect each vehicle to
ensure that it is in proper working condition before accepting delivery.
Use the following checklist as a guide to inspect the vehicle. This checklist should be used daily to ensure that the
vehicle is in proper working condition and in conjunction with the Performance Inspection on page 10-2 and the
Periodic Service Schedules on page 10-3. Any problems should be corrected by a Club Car distributor/dealer or a
trained technician.
• General: All the parts should be in place and properly installed. Be sure that all nuts, bolts, and screws are tight.
On gasoline vehicles check all hose clamps for tight fit as well as the starter belt for tightness.
• Safety and information decals: Check to ensure that all safety and information decals are in place. See Safety
Decal and Feature Identification in the Owner’s Manual.
• Tires: Check for proper tire pressure. Visually inspect tires for wear, damage, and proper inflation on a daily basis.
See Vehicle Specifications on page 2-1.
• Battery(ies): Check electrolyte to ensure that it is at its proper level (Figure 12-34, Page 12-35) or (Figure 21-6,
Page 21-17). Check battery posts. Wires should be tight and free of corrosion. On electric vehicles, charge
batteries fully before first use of vehicle.
• Charger cord, plug, and receptacle (electric vehicles): Visually inspect for cracks, loose connections, and
frayed wiring.
• Engine (gasoline vehicles): Check for proper engine oil level. See Engine Oil – Gasoline Vehicles on page 10-8.
• Fuel (gasoline vehicles): Check fuel level. See Fueling Instructions – Gasoline Vehicles on page 10-11.
Check fuel tank, lines, cap, pump, fuel filters, and carburetor for fuel leakage.
• Exhaust system (gasoline vehicles): Check for leaks.
• Performance Inspection: Inspect as instructed. See Performance Inspection on page 10-2.
WARNING
• Be sure the plastic has been removed from the seat bottom before operating the vehicle. Failure to do
so may result in a fire, property damage, personal injury, or death.
PERFORMANCE INSPECTION
After you have familiarized yourself with the vehicle controls and have read and understood the driving instructions,
take the vehicle for a test drive.
Use the following checklist, in conjunction with the Daily Pre-Operation and Safety Checklist, as a guide to inspect the
vehicle and check daily for proper operation. Any problems should be corrected by a Club Car distributor/dealer or a
trained technician.
All Vehicles
• Forward/Reverse control: Check for proper operation. See Controls and Indicators in the Owner’s Manual.
• Brakes: Be sure the brakes function properly. When brake pedal is fully pressed under moderate pressure, it
should not go more than halfway to the floor, and vehicle should come to a smooth, straight stop within 14 feet
(4.3 m). If the pedal goes more than halfway to the floor, or if the vehicle swerves or fails to stop within 14 feet
(4.3 m), have the brake system checked and adjusted as required. Brake adjustment must be maintained so that
the brake pedal cannot be pressed to the floor under any circumstance.
• Park brake: When latched, the park brake should lock the wheels and hold the vehicle stationary (on an incline of
20% or less). It should release when either the accelerator or brake pedal is pressed.
• Reverse buzzer: The reverse buzzer should sound as a warning when the Forward/Reverse handle or switch is in
the REVERSE position.
• Steering: The vehicle should be easy to steer and should not have any play in the steering wheel.
• General: Listen for any unusual noises such as squeaks or rattles. Check the vehicle’s ride and performance.
Have a Club Car distributor/dealer or a trained technician investigate anything unusual.
Electric Vehicles
• Accelerator: With the key switch in the ON position and the Forward/Reverse switch in the FORWARD position, as
the accelerator pedal is pressed, the motor should start and the vehicle should accelerate smoothly to full speed.
When the pedal is released it should return to the original position and the motor should rotate freely or go into motor
braking mode. See Pedal Up Motor Braking below. All Club Car vehicles operate at reduced speed in reverse.
• Walk-Away Braking: With the vehicle parked on level ground and the park brake disengaged, place the Tow/Run
switch in the RUN position and attempt to push the vehicle. Motor braking should engage and cause resistance to
rolling (moving at no more than 1 to 3 mph) (1.5 to 4.8 km/h) with the Forward/Reverse switch in any position.
When walk-away braking is engaged, the reverse buzzer should emit a distinct pattern of beeps. See following
WARNING.
WARNING
• Walk-away braking will not limit vehicle speed to 1 mph (1.6 km/h) on very steep grades. Do not
operate vehicle on slopes exceeding 20% grades.
• Pedal Up Motor Braking (adjustable on IQ System vehicles): Accelerate the vehicle to full speed and then
release the accelerator pedal. Motor braking should quickly and smoothly slow the vehicle to approximately 11 mph
(17.7 km/h). Motor braking will disengage when vehicle slows to 11 mph (17.7 km/h). This feature is adjustable for
IQ System vehicles only. Contact your local Club Car dealer/distributor to inquire about this adjustable feature.
• Pedal Down Motor Braking: Accelerate down an incline with the accelerator pedal pressed. When the vehicle
reaches maximum programmed speed, motor braking should engage and limit the vehicle to its maximum
programmed speed. On very steep grades, the vehicle may slightly exceed its maximum programmed speed,
requiring use of the brake pedal.
Gasoline Vehicles
• Accelerator: With the key switch in the ON position and the Forward/Reverse switch in the FORWARD position, as
the accelerator pedal is pressed, the engine should start and the vehicle should accelerate smoothly to full speed.
When the pedal is released it should return to the original position and the engine should stop. All Club Car
vehicles operate at reduced speed in reverse.
WARNING
• Service, repairs, and adjustments must be made per instructions in the maintenance and service
manual.
• If any problems are found during scheduled inspection or service, do not operate the vehicle until
repairs are made. Failure to make necessary repairs could result in fire, property damage, severe
personal injury, or death.
NOTE: If the vehicle is constantly subjected to heavy use or severe operating conditions, the preventive maintenance
procedure should be performed more often than recommended in the periodic service and lubrication
schedules.
Both the Periodic Service Schedule and Periodic Lubrication Schedule must be followed to keep vehicle in
optimum operating condition.
Monthly service by owner or trained Check air pressure and adjust if necessary.
Tires
technician See Vehicle Specifications on page 2-1.
Annual service by trained technician only Check air filter element; clean or replace if
(every 100 hours of operation or every 200 necessary.
rounds for golf cars) Engine air intake system
Check clamps for tightness; check hose for
cracks.
Brake pedal shaft bearings 1 Dry Moly Lube (CC P/N 1012151)
Brake linkage and pivots 2 Dry Moly Lube (CC P/N 1012151)
Accelerator pivot rod supports Dry Moly Lube (CC P/N 1012151)
Semiannually by owner or
trained technician (every 50 Charger receptacle WD-40
hours of operation or 100
rounds of golf) Brake slides Dry Moly Lube (CC P/N 1012151)
2 6
5 4
3 6
1 2
7
6
5
6
6
15
Figure 10-1 Lubrication Points – Electric Vehicles
Brake pedal shaft bearings 1 Dry Moly Lube (CC P/N 1012151)
Brake linkage and pivots 2 Dry Moly Lube (CC P/N 1012151)
2 4
5
3 4
1 2
3
3
3
1
3
7
6
4
5
4 4
16
Figure 10-2 Lubrication Points – Gasoline Vehicles
Even though the low oil warning light on the dash should illuminate if oil level becomes low, engine oil level should be
checked monthly. Vehicle should be on a level surface when checking oil. Do not overfill with oil.
1. Remove the oil level dipstick from the oil filler tube, and wipe oil off dipstick (1) (Figure 10-3). See following
CAUTION.
CAUTION
• Do not remove dipstick while engine is running.
2. Check oil by fully inserting the dipstick into the oil filler tube (2) and immediately removing it.
3. If the oil level is at or below the low level mark on the dipstick gauge, add oil until the level is between low
and full levels (safe level) (3).
4. Insert the dipstick into the oil filler tube. See following NOTE.
NOTE: Properly recycle or dispose of used oil in accordance with local, state, and federal regulations.
23
Figure 10-3 Engine Oil Level Check
Engine oil and oil filter should be changed after the first 100 hours of operation. After that, they should be changed
every 200 hours of operation or annually, whichever comes first.
1. Turn the key switch to the OFF position, then remove the key. Place the Forward/Reverse handle in the neutral
POSITION. Chock the front wheels.
2. Access the engine compartment.
3. Disconnect battery and spark plug wire(s). See Disconnecting the Battery – Gasoline Vehicles on page 1-3.
4. Position a pan designed for oil changes under the front drain plug (Figure 10-4).
25
Figure 10-4 Engine Oil Drain Plug and Pan
5. Use a 14 mm socket or wrench to remove the drain plug, turning it counterclockwise, and allow the engine
oil to drain into the pan. See following WARNING.
WARNING
• Do not attempt to change engine oil when the engine is hot or even warm. Engine oil can cause
skin burns.
• Wear safety glasses or approved eye protection when servicing the vehicle. Wear rubber gloves when
handling oil drain plug, oil filter, and oil drain pan.
6. Clean the oil drain plug threads with solvent to remove oil and oil residue. Make sure that the compression
washer remains on the drain plug.
7. Use a 14 mm socket or wrench and replace the front oil drain plug, turning it clockwise, and tighten to 18 ft-lb
(24.4 N·m).
8. Relocate the oil drain pan to a position under the engine oil filter (Figure 10-4).
9. Remove the engine oil filter (1), turning it counterclockwise, allowing the residual oil in the filter port and filter
to drain into the oil drain pan (2) (Figure 10-5). See following NOTE.
NOTE: An oil drip guard (3) can be used to prevent excess oil from dripping into the engine base plate. Use an empty
quart (one liter) container and cut the bottom off at an angle, then slide the open area of the container up and
under the oil filter prior to removing. Position the port of the plastic container so oil will be directed into the oil
pan. Or, make a drip guard by folding a piece of cardboard, thin metal, or plastic under the oil filter forming a
channel to direct the filter port oil into the drain pan.
Dispose of used oil according to the environmental laws and regulations for your area.
26
Figure 10-5 Remove Engine Oil Filter
10. Use a clean rag and wipe the oil filter mounting bracket surface clean where the oil filter gasket seats.
11. Coat new oil filter gasket with clean engine oil and install the oil filter onto the engine oil filter port (Figure 10-6).
NOTE: Use only Club Car oil filters (CC P/N 1016467) designed for this engine.
12. Hand tighten 2/3 to 3/4 turn after filter gasket contacts mounting surface.
13. Remove the dipstick and add engine oil into the dipstick port. Use a funnel or pour spout to direct the oil into the
dipstick port. With filter change, the engine requires 38 ounces (1.12 liters) of oil per change. Refer to oil viscosity
guidelines for selection of oil grade (Figure 10-7). Replace the dipstick.
SAE 40
SAE 30
SAE 5 W-30
27 213
Figure 10-6 Coat Oil Filter Rubber Seal Figure 10-7 Oil Viscosity Chart
14. Connect battery and spark plug wire(s). See Connecting the Battery – Gasoline Vehicles on page 1-3.
15. With the Forward/Reverse handle in the NEUTRAL position, run engine for 3 minutes and check for leaks.
Observe both the drain plug and the oil filter from under the vehicle and watch for oil leaks. If filter leaks, tighten
additional 1/4 turn and retest. If oil drain plug leaks, re-torque and retest.
16. Remove the dipstick and check the engine oil as a final step. Replace the dipstick.
SPARK PLUGS
GEARCASE LUBRICATION
NOTE: Dispose of used oil according to the environmental laws and regulations for your area.
See Unitized Transaxle Service on page 16-2 and Lubrication on page 16-3.
DANGER
• Turn the key switch to the OFF position before fueling.
• Do not pour fuel into the fuel tank when the engine is hot or while it is running.
• To avoid electric arc caused by static electricity, the fuel storage/pumping device must be grounded. If
the pump is not grounded, the vehicle must be grounded to the pump before and during the fueling
operation.
• If the vehicle has an all-weather enclosure installed, be sure the fuel tank is properly vented as
shown (Figure 10-8).
• To avoid the possibility of fire, clean up any spilled fuel before operating the vehicle.
CAUTION
• To allow for expansion, do not fill higher than 2.54 cm (one inch) from the top of the fuel tank. Avoid
spilling fuel.
NOTE: Whenever possible, avoid using oxygenated fuels and fuels that are blended with alcohol. Vehicles to be
stored for extended periods should be prepared for storage as instructed. See Preparing the Gasoline
Vehicle for Extended Storage on page 3-5.
1
2
24
Figure 10-8 Fuel Tank
BATTERY
DANGER
• See General Warnings on page 1-1.
WARNING
• See General Warnings on page 1-1.
GENERAL INFORMATION
This section contains the information required to correctly troubleshoot the vehicle. A troubleshooting guide is provided
for general troubleshooting.
In addition to troubleshooting, this section contains general information on the electrical system and the circuits
of the electrical system.
TROUBLESHOOTING GUIDE
The following troubleshooting guide will be helpful in identifying operating difficulties should they occur. The guide
includes the symptom, probable cause(s) and suggested checks. The procedures used in making these checks can be
found in the referenced sections of the maintenance and service manual.
TROUBLESHOOTING GUIDE
SYMPTOM POSSIBLE CAUSES CORRECTIVE ACTION
Spark plug is partially fouled or in poor
See Section 13 – Engine.
condition
Loose wire connection at ignition coil or RPM Test Procedures 13 – Ignition Spark, 14 – RPM
limiter Limiter, and 15 – Ignition Coil
TROUBLESHOOTING GUIDE
SYMPTOM POSSIBLE CAUSES CORRECTIVE ACTION
Spark plug is fouled or in poor condition See Section 13 – Engine.
Loose wire connection at ignition coil or RPM Test Procedures 13 – Ignition Spark, 14 – RPM
limiter Limiter, and 15 – Ignition Coil
Engine turns but fails to start. Test Procedures 13 – Ignition Spark, 14 – RPM
Ignition coil or RPM limiter failed
Limiter, and 15 – Ignition Coil
Engine flooded with fuel as result of excess See Owner’s Manual, Controls and Indicators.
choking See Choke.
Carburetor is too lean; check main jet size See Section 14 – Fuel System.
Muffler or exhaust pipe restricted with carbon See Section 15 – Exhaust System: Gasoline
or other substance Vehicles.
TROUBLESHOOTING GUIDE
SYMPTOM POSSIBLE CAUSES CORRECTIVE ACTION
Spark plug failed See Section 13 – Engine.
Unsuitable fuel, or incorrect (rich) fuel mixture See Section 14 – Fuel System.
Rings are heavily worn, low cylinder pressure See Section 13 – Engine.
Carburetor floods. Float is damaged and filled with fuel See Section 14 – Fuel System.
Float needle valve not functioning properly See Section 14 – Fuel System.
Neutral lockout cam is in the wrong position Neutral Lockout Cam on page 12-20
Cylinder and/or crankcase flooded with fuel See Section 14 – Fuel System.
TROUBLESHOOTING GUIDE
SYMPTOM POSSIBLE CAUSES CORRECTIVE ACTION
Loose or broken wire in the starter/ generator Test Procedure 10 – Starter/Generator
circuit (Generator Function)
Idle RPM setting is set too high See Section 14 – Fuel System.
Transmission does not engage or disengage Insufficient (low) level of lubricant or wrong
See Section 16 – Unitized Transaxle.
smoothly. type of lubricant in transmission
TROUBLESHOOTING GUIDE
SYMPTOM POSSIBLE CAUSES CORRECTIVE ACTION
Kill circuit wire is disconnected from the
Test Procedure 12 – Disconnected Kill Wire
ignition coil
Accelerator pedal linkage out of adjustment See Section 5 – Accelerator and Brake Pedal
causing engine kill limit switch not to activate Group.
CENTER DASH
PANEL ASSEMBLY
COM
18_BLK(W10)
1
NO
NC
18_GRN(W11)
18_WHT(W03)
REVERSE FORWARD/REVERSE
BUZZER LIMIT SWITCHES
COM
2
POS (+)
NEG (-)
NO
18_RED/WHT(W05)
16_BLU(W09)
NO COM
NC 1
16_BLU(W09)
18_YEL(W01)
16_ORG(W24)
18_WHT/BLK(W06)
18_BLK(W21)
18_BLK(W22)
M+
COM
NO 2
KEY 1 2
SWITCH
TO ENGINE KILL HOOK UP
M- 16_BLK(W19)
18_WHT/BLK(W04)
FUSE BLOCK
10_RED(W23)
18_BLK(W20)
16_ORG(W02)
16_RED(W07)
WD1019173Y4-L
6_BLK(W26)
6_RED(W25)
16_YEL(W13)
6_WHT(W12)
DF F2
STARTER
18_RED(W17)
SOLENOID GENERATOR
16_ORG(W24)
VOLTAGE REGULATOR 5
6_BLK(W15)
18_YEL(W18)
4
16_BLK(W19)
10_RED(W23) 3
ELECTRICAL
COMPONENT BOX
WD1019173Y4-R
ELECTRICAL SYSTEM
The electrical system on the gasoline vehicle is 12 volts DC with negative (–) ground to frame, and consists of the
following circuits that are easily identified:
• Starter Circuit
• Generator Circuit
• Engine Ignition Circuit
• Engine Kill Circuit
• Reverse Buzzer Circuit
• Low Oil Warning Light Circuit
• Neutral Lockout Circuit
• Fuel Gauge and Sending Unit Circuit
• Hour Meter Circuit
• Lighting Circuit
Recognizing and understanding the function of each of these circuits will help to quickly isolate the source of an
electrical problem. Use the appropriate test procedure to correct the electrical problem. See Test Procedures on
page 11-8.
TEST PROCEDURES
1 – Battery
2 – Fuse
3 – Ground Cables
4 – Key Switch (Starter Circuit)
5 – Accelerator Pedal Limit Switch
6 – Solenoid
7 – Neutral Lockout Limit Switch
8 – Starter/Generator (Starter Function)
9 – Wire Continuity
10 – Starter/Generator (Generator Function)
11 – Voltage Regulator
12 – Disconnected Kill Wire
13 – Ignition Spark
14 – RPM Limiter
15 – Ignition Coil
16 – Kill Limit Switch
17 – Key Switch (Engine Kill Circuit)
18 – Engine Kill Wire
19 – Reverse Buzzer Limit Switch
20 – Reverse Buzzer
DANGER
• Due to the danger of an exploding battery, wear a full face shield and rubber gloves when working near
a battery.
• Battery – Explosive gases! Do not smoke. Keep sparks and flames away from the vehicle and service
area. Ventilate when charging or operating vehicle in an enclosed area. Wear a full face shield and
rubber gloves when working on or near batteries.
• Battery – Poison! Contains acid! Causes severe burns. Avoid contact with skin, eyes, or clothing.
Antidotes:
NOTE: The battery must be properly maintained and fully charged in order to perform the following test procedures.
Battery maintenance procedures, including watering information and allowable mineral content, can be found
in section See Section 12 – Electrical Components: FE290 Pedal-Start Gas Vehicle. of this manual.
See Battery on page 12-33.
1. Place the Forward/Reverse handle in the NEUTRAL position and the neutral lockout switch in the MAINTENANCE
position. Chock the wheels.
2. Check for loose or corroded battery terminal connections. Remove the negative (–) cable first and clean, tighten,
and replace connections as necessary.
Hydrometer Test
A hydrometer (CC P/N 1011478) measures the specific gravity. The greater the specific gravity, the greater the state of
charge of the battery. A fully charged battery should read between 1.250 and 1.280 at 80 °F (27 °C). Never add acid
to the battery to obtain a higher specific gravity (Figure 11-3, Page 11-10).
CAUTION
• Do not allow battery acid from battery caps or hydrometer to drip onto the body. Battery acid will
cause permanent damage. Wash off immediately.
1. Be sure that the battery has sufficient water to cover the plates by approximately 1/2 inch (12.7 mm) and is
fully charged prior to beginning the test. If water must be added, recharge the battery before performing the
hydrometer test (Figure 11-4, Page 11-10).
2. Remove the vent cap.
3. Using a battery thermometer (CC P/N 1011767), record the electrolyte temperature of a center cell.
4. Squeeze the rubber bulb of the hydrometer and insert into the cell. Slowly release the bulb, drawing electrolyte
up into the glass tube of the hydrometer.
5. When the float rises off the bottom, adjust the electrolyte level so that the float rides free of the bottom but does not
strike the bottom of the rubber bulb. Remove the hydrometer from the cell and release the pressure from the bulb.
6. Hold the hydrometer vertically, ensuring that the float is not contacting the sides of the glass tube. Hold the
hydrometer at eye level and read the scale at the level of electrolyte (Figure 11-3, Page 11-10).
7. Record the reading.
8. Return the electrolyte to the cell from which it was taken. Replace vent cap.
9. Repeat steps 2 through 8 on all cells.
2
1
3
20
40
1.250
60
80
1.280
13 00
717 22
Figure 11-3 Hydrometer Test Figure 11-4 Battery Electrolyte Level
Hydrometer Calibration
Most hydrometers are calibrated to read correctly at 80 °F (27 °C). The readings obtained as described above must be
corrected for temperature. For each 10 °F (5.6 °C) above 80 °F (27 °C), add 0.004 to the reading. For each 10 °F
(5.6 °C) below 80 °F (27 °C), subtract 0.004 from the reading.
The approximate state of charge can be determined by referring to the following table:
1.220-1.240 75%
1.190-1.210 50%
1.160-1.180 25%
If the difference between the cells is 0.020 or more, the low cell should be suspected. It may require a catch-up charge
or it may be a weak cell. When the variations between cells reach 0.050 or more, the battery should be replaced.
Voltage Test
1. Take a voltage reading with a multimeter set to 20 VDC by placing the red (+) probe on the positive (+) battery
post and the black (–) probe on the negative (–) battery post. If it shows less than 12.4 volts, or if the lowest
specific gravity reading from the Hydrometer Test is less than 1.225, recharge the battery. If battery voltage is
greater than 12.4 volts and specific gravity is greater than 1.225, the problem is not with the battery. If the battery
does not reach 12.4 volts, or if the specific gravity of a cell is still less than 1.225 after charging, replace the
battery. See following NOTE.
NOTE: A fully charged battery that is in good condition should have a specific gravity of at least 1.225 in all cells,
and the difference in the specific gravity of any two cells should be less than 50 points. Open circuit voltage
should be at least 12.4 volts.
Load Test
40 °F (4 °C) 9.3 V
4. If the battery is found to be good, or if the electrical problem continues after the battery has been replaced
with a good one, test the electrical circuits.
1. Disconnect battery. See Disconnecting the Battery – Gasoline Vehicles, Section 1, Page 1-3.
2. Remove the cover from the electrical component box.
3. Ensure that wires are connected correctly and are tight. If they are not, rewire or tighten as necessary.
4. Remove fuse to be tested from the fuse block. See Fuse Removal on page 12-16. The red 10-amp fuse
protects the solenoid for the starter (cranking) circuit. The 20-amp fuse at the yellow wire connection protects the
headlights and brake lights (if equipped). The fuse at the red/white wire connection protects the horn.
5. Connect the probes of a multimeter, set to 200 ohms, to the fuse terminals. The reading should be continuity. If
there is no continuity, determine and repair the cause of the fuse failure. Replace the fuse with a properly
rated new one.
6. Connect battery. See Connecting the Battery – Gasoline Vehicles, Section 1, Page 1-3.
1. Disconnect battery and spark plug wire(s). See Disconnecting the Battery – Gasoline Vehicles, Section
1, Page 1-3.
2. Check the starter/generator ground cable.
2.1. Set the multimeter to 200 ohms. Place the red (+) probe on the (A2) terminal of the starter/generator and
place the black (–) probe on the vehicle frame (Figure 11-5, Page 11-12). The reading should be continuity.
If the reading is incorrect, clean and tighten cable connections. If the connections are good and the reading
is incorrect, repair or replace the cable.
3. Check the engine ground cable.
3.1. Place the red (+) probe of the multimeter on the ground cable terminal end located on the oil filler bracket
on the engine (Figure 11-6, Page 11-12). Place the black (–) probe on the vehicle frame. The reading
should be continuity. If the reading is incorrect, clean and tighten cable connections. If the connections are
good and the reading is incorrect, repair or replace the cable.
F2
00
Figure 11-5 Starter/Generator Ground Cable Test Figure 11-6 Engine Ground Cable Test
4. Check voltage regulator ground connection (at battery frame ground). Make sure it is clean and tight.
5. Check the battery ground cable.
5.1. A 6-gauge black cable connects the negative (–) battery post to the frame. The frame connection should
be clean and tight. Visual inspection of the connection on the frame is very difficult. The best check for
tightness is to pull on the black cable. If the cable moves at the connection end, disassemble the frame
connection and clean the bolt, ring terminal, and nut. Reinstall the frame connection.
5.2. Set the multimeter to 200 ohms. Place the red (+) probe on the unconnected end of the 6-gauge black
cable, and place the black (–) probe on the vehicle frame (Figure 11-7, Page 11-13). The reading should
be continuity. If the reading is incorrect, ensure that terminal connections are clean and tight. If the
connections are good and the reading is incorrect, repair or replace the cable.
6. Connect battery and spark plug wire(s). See Connecting the Battery – Gasoline Vehicles, Section 1, Page 1-3.
3
WAVETEK 5XL
V OFF V
1000 500
200 200
20 200
2 2m
200 20
m m
200
2000
k m
200k
20k 200
2k A
V ! COM ! 200nA
MAX
1000 ---
FUSED
750V
1
2
1. Disconnect battery and spark plug wire(s). See Disconnecting the Battery – Gasoline Vehicles, Section
1, Page 1-3.
2. Remove the center dash assembly. See Key Switch Removal on page 12-13.
3. Ensure that the wires are connected correctly and are tight. If they are not, rewire or tighten as necessary.
4. Insert the key and turn the key to ON. Place the red (+) probe of the multimeter on the (2) terminal and the black
(–) probe on the (1) terminal of the key switch. The reading should be continuity. If the reading is incorrect,
replace the key switch (Figure 11-8, Page 11-13).
5. Connect battery and spark plug wire(s). See Connecting the Battery – Gasoline Vehicles, Section 1, Page 1-3.
3
2
1
–M
WAVETEK
V OFF
5XL
V
4 2
+M
200
1000 500
200 7
20 200
2 2m
200 20
5
m m
200
2000
k m
200k
20k 200
2k A
V ! COM ! 200nA
MAX
1000 ---
1
FUSED
750V
1334
Figure 11-8 Key Switch Starter Circuit Test – For
Pedal-Start Vehicles
The accelerator pedal limit switch is the top switch located in the electrical component box. There is an 18-gauge
green wire and an 18-gauge orange wire connected to this limit switch.
1. Disconnect battery and spark plug wire(s). See Disconnecting the Battery – Gasoline Vehicles, Section
1, Page 1-3.
2. Check for proper wiring and tight connections (Figure 11-1, Page 11-6).
3. Set the multimeter to 200 ohms. Place the red (+) probe on the common (COM) terminal (green wire) of the limit
switch and place the black (–) probe on the normally closed (NC) terminal (orange wire) of the limit switch.
4. Make sure the battery is disconnected. With the key switch in the OFF position, the Forward/Reverse handle in
NEUTRAL, and the accelerator pedal in the UP position, the reading should be no continuity. With the accelerator
pedal pressed, the reading should be continuity. If readings are incorrect, replace the switch.
5. Connect battery and spark plug wire(s). See Connecting the Battery – Gasoline Vehicles, Section 1, Page 1-3.
1. Disconnect battery and spark plug wire(s). See Disconnecting the Battery – Gasoline Vehicles, Section
1, Page 1-3.
2. Remove the electrical component box cover.
3. Ensure that the wires are connected correctly and are tight. If they are not, rewire or tighten as necessary.
4. Set a multimeter to 200 ohms. Place the red (+) probe on one of the small posts of the solenoid and place the
black (–) probe on the other small post. The reading should be 14 to 16 ohms. If the reading is not within
limits, replace the solenoid.
5. Remove the 6-gauge white wire, the 18-gauge red wire, and 18-gauge white wire (if equipped) from the large
post of the solenoid. Do not allow the wires to touch the frame or other components of the vehicle (Figure
11-9, Page 11-14).
3 4
5
457
Figure 11-9 Solenoid Wire Removal
6. Set the multimeter to 200 ohms. Connect the red (+) probe to one of the large posts of the solenoid and connect
the black (–) probe to the other large post (Figure 11-10, Page 11-15).
7. Connect battery and spark plug wire(s). See Connecting the Battery – Gasoline Vehicles, Section 1, Page 1-3.
WAVETEK 5XL
V V
WAVETEK 5XL
OFF
1000 500 V
V OFF
1000 500
200 200
200 200
20 200
20 200
2 2m
2 2m
200 20
m m 200 20
m m
200
2000
k m 200
2000
k m
200k
200 200k
20k
2k A
20k 200
2k A
V ! COM ! 200nA
V ! COM ! 200nA
MAX
1000 --- MAX
FUSED
750V 1000 ---
FUSED
750V
458 459
Figure 11-10 Solenoid Continuity Test Figure 11-11 Solenoid Ground Test
This switch is located on the Forward/Reverse switch assembly. A black wire, a green wire, and a white wire
are connected to this limit switch.
1. Disconnect battery and spark plug wire(s). See Disconnecting the Battery – Gasoline Vehicles, Section
1, Page 1-3.
2. Check for proper wiring and tight connections.
3. Set the multimeter to 200 ohms. Place the red (+) probe of the multimeter on the common (COM) terminal of
the limit switch. Place the black (–) probe on the normally open (NO) terminal of the switch. Without the lever
pressed, the reading should be no continuity. Press the lever, and the reading should be continuity. If either
reading is incorrect, replace the limit switch (Figure 11-12, Page 11-16).
4. Check to be sure the lobe on the cam is pressing the neutral lockout limit switch as the Forward/Reverse shifter is
being shifted. The limit switch should make an audible click as it is pressed. If it does not, check for wear on the
cam lobe and replace cam if necessary.
5. Connect battery and spark plug wire(s). See Connecting the Battery – Gasoline Vehicles, Section 1, Page 1-3.
1 NC
NC
NO COM 2
NO COM
20 200 20 200
2 2m 2 2m
200 20 200 20
m m m m
200 200
2000 2000
m k m
k
200k 200k
MAX MAX
1000 --- 1000 ---
FUSED FUSED
750V 750V
3 4
1. Lever Up 2. Lever Depressed 3. Tester light is OFF. Meter reads 1. 4. Tester light is ON. Meter reads approx. zero ohms.
460
Figure 11-12 Neutral Lockout Limit Switch Test
1. Disconnect battery and spark plug wire(s). See Disconnecting the Battery – Gasoline Vehicles, Section
1, Page 1-3.
2. Ensure that wires are connected correctly and are tight. If they are not, rewire or tighten as necessary.
3. Disconnect the wires from all the terminals on the starter/generator. Then place the black (–) probe of a
multimeter, set to 200 ohms, on the starter/generator housing (scratch through the finish to ensure a good
ground). While holding the black (–) probe against the housing, place the red (+) probe (one at a time) on the A1,
A2, F1, F2 and DF terminals respectively (Figure 11-13, Page 11-17). The readings should be no continuity. If
the readings are incorrect, the starter/generator will need to be removed from the vehicle and disassembled by a
qualified technician. See Starter/Generator Removal on page 12-1.
– An incorrect reading from the A1 or A2 terminal indicates three possible problems: 1) a grounded A1 or A2
terminal, 2) a grounded wire in the brush area, or 3) a grounded armature/commutator.
– If the F1 or F2 reading is incorrect, it indicates a possible grounded F1 or F2 terminal or a grounded field coil.
– If the DF reading is incorrect, it indicates a possible grounded DF terminal or a grounded field coil.
4. Disconnect the ground wire from the A2 terminal and the green wire from the A1 terminal on the starter/generator.
5. Using a multimeter set to 200 ohms, place the red (+) probe on the A1 terminal and the black (–) probe on the A2
terminal. The reading should be continuity. If the reading is incorrect, a possible open or poor contact in a brush
assembly and/or open armature windings may be the cause. The starter/generator will need to be removed from
the vehicle and disassembled by a qualified technician. See Starter/Generator Removal on page 12-1.
6. With the wires still disconnected, using a multimeter set on 200 ohms, place the red (+) probe on the F1 terminal
and the black (–) probe on the F2 terminal. The reading should be between approximately 0.1 and 0.3 ohms. If
the reading is incorrect, a possible open field coil or bad connections at terminals may be the cause. The
starter/generator will need to be removed from the vehicle and disassembled by a qualified technician. See
Starter/Generator Removal on page 12-1.
7. With the wires still disconnected, using a multimeter set to 200 ohms, place the red (+) probe on the DF terminal
and the black (–) probe on the F1 terminal. The reading should be between 4.5 and 5.5 ohms. If the reading is
incorrect, a possible grounded DF terminal and/or grounded field coil may be the cause. The starter/generator
will need to be removed from the vehicle and disassembled by a qualified technician. See Starter/Generator
Removal on page 12-1.
8. Connect battery and spark plug wire(s). See Connecting the Battery – Gasoline Vehicles, Section 1, Page 1-3.
F2 1
F2 DF
DF
A1
WAVETEK 5XL
A1
V OFF V
1000 500
20
200 200
200
F1 F1
2 2m
A2 A2
200 20
m m
200
2000
k m
200k
20k 200
A
2
2k
V ! COM ! 200nA
2
MAX
1000 ---
FUSED
750V
461 462
Figure 11-13 Check Starter Terminal Continuity Figure 11-14 Jumper Wire Ground – DF to A2
1. Disconnect battery and spark plug wire(s). See Disconnecting the Battery – Gasoline Vehicles, Section
1, Page 1-3.
2. To test a wire for continuity, disconnect either end from the electrical component it is attached to.
3. Set the multimeter to 200 ohms and place the red (+) probe on the terminal at one end of the wire. Place the
black (–) probe on the other terminal end of the wire. The reading should be continuity. If the reading is incorrect,
repair or replace the wire.
4. Connect battery and spark plug wire(s). See Connecting the Battery – Gasoline Vehicles, Section 1, Page 1-3.
NOTE: Keep the battery connected while performing this test procedure.
1. Place the Forward/Reverse handle in the NEUTRAL position and the neutral lockout switch or cam in the
MAINTENANCE position. Chock the wheels.
2. Ensure that the wires are connected correctly and are tight. If they are not, rewire or tighten as necessary.
3. Disconnect the yellow wire from the DF terminal on the starter/generator. Cover the connector on the yellow wire
to make sure the yellow wire will not short to ground. Then, using a jumper wire, ground the DF terminal to the
A2 terminal (Figure 11-14, Page 11-17).
4. Using a multimeter set to 20 volts DC, place the red (+) probe on the positive (+) post of the battery, and place the
black (–) probe on the negative (–) post. Start the engine and run it at full governed speed. The reading should
show the voltage rising on the meter. If the voltage rises above 15.3 volts DC, test the voltage regulator. See
Voltage Regulator on page 11-18. If the voltage does not rise, a tear-down inspection of the starter/generator
will be necessary. See Starter/Generator Removal on page 12-1.
5. Connect the yellow wire to the DF terminal on the starter/generator.
NOTE: Keep the battery connected while performing this test procedure.
1. Place the Forward/Reverse handle in the NEUTRAL position and the neutral lockout switch or cam in the
MAINTENANCE position. Chock the wheels.
2. Ensure that the wires are connected correctly and are tight. If they are not, rewire or tighten as necessary.
3. Check the engine RPM setting to ensure that it is adjusted correctly. See Engine RPM Adjustment, Section
14, Page 14-11.
4. With the battery in good condition and fully charged, run the engine for several minutes to bring the voltage
regulator to operating temperature.
5. Turn the key switch to the OFF position, killing the engine. Using a multimeter set to 20 volts DC, place the red
(+) probe on the large post of the solenoid with the red wire from the voltage regulator attached. Place the black
(–) probe on the negative (–) battery post (Figure 11-15, Page 11-18). Turn the key switch to the ON position.
Press the accelerator to start the engine and run it at full governed speed. If the reading is between 14.7 and 15.3
volts, the regulator is good. If the reading is lower than 14.7 volts but rising steadily, check battery condition. If the
reading is lower than 14.7 volts and not rising, and the starter/generator is good; or if the reading is over 15.3
volts and continues to rise, replace voltage regulator. See Voltage Regulator Removal on page 12-12.
2
1
RED
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m
4
m
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2000
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20k 200
2k A
3
V ! COM ! 200nA
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1000 ---
FUSED
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463
Figure 11-15 Voltage Regulator Test
NOTE: Keep the battery connected while performing this test procedure.
1. Place the Forward/Reverse handle in the NEUTRAL position and the neutral lockout switch or cam in the
MAINTENANCE position. Chock the wheels.
2. Disconnect the engine kill white/black wire at the bullet connector located next to the RPM limiter (Figure 11-17,
Page 11-19).
3. Start the engine in a well ventilated area.
– Turn the key switch to the ON position. Press the accelerator pedal to start the engine.
4. If the engine begins to run, test the engine kill circuit for a shorted wire or other failed components in the engine
kill circuit. See Key Switch (Engine Kill Circuit) on page 11-27. See following WARNING.
WARNING
• When the white/black engine kill wire is disconnected, the engine will not stop running after the
accelerator pedal is released. It will be necessary to pull and hold the choke handle until the engine
stops running.
5. If the engine does not run, proceed to Test Procedure 13 – Ignition Spark on page 11-19.
2 1
2
464 465
Figure 11-16 Ignition Spark Test Figure 11-17 White/Black Engine Kill Wire
NOTE: Keep the battery connected while performing this test procedure.
1. Place the Forward/Reverse handle in the NEUTRAL position and the neutral lockout switch or cam in the
MAINTENANCE position. Chock the wheels.
2. Remove the plug wire from the spark plug. Using an ignition spark gap test tool (Thexton 404® or equivalent),
check for correct spark (Figure 11-16, Page 11-19).
2.1. Adjust the tester probes to approximately 18,000 volts (18 Kv) setting (SE – Small Engine Setting on the
Thexton 404 tool). Connect the tester to the spark plug wire, and connect the alligator clip to a solid
engine ground.
2.2. Start the engine. There should be a strong blue spark between the probes of the spark gap tester. If
there is no spark, or if the spark is a faint yellow or red color, test components of the ignition circuit. See
Ignition Coil on page 11-21.
3. If the spark gap tester tool indicates a strong blue spark, it is possible the spark plug has failed internally. Check
the spark plug gap. The gap should be set at 0.027 to 0.031 of an inch (0.69 to 0.79 mm). If the gap is correct,
replace the spark plug with a new part and test the engine for proper operation.
1. Disconnect battery and spark plug wire(s). See Disconnecting the Battery – Gasoline Vehicles, Section
1, Page 1-3.
2. Disconnect both of the bullet terminals (Figure 11-18, Page 11-20).
3. Using a multimeter set to 200 ohms, place the red (+) probe on the brown ground wire and place the black (–)
probe on one of the black wire female bullet connectors. The reading should be no continuity. If the reading
is not correct, replace the RPM Limiter.
4. This test will find most bad RPM Limiters. Some of them may bench test okay but fail under a load due to heat
while operating. Another method of testing is to replace the RPM Limiter and then run the engine. If the engine
runs properly, keep the new RPM Limiter in the circuit.
5. Connect battery and spark plug wire(s). See Connecting the Battery – Gasoline Vehicles, Section 1, Page 1-3.
00
00
3
00
4
1
2 3
1. Brown Wire 2. Black Wire 3. Female Bullet Terminal 4. White/Black Kill Circuit Wire 5. Ignition Coil Black Wire
466
Figure 11-18 RPM Limiter
The following test procedures will properly detect a coil that has failed in most cases; however, in rare cases, some
ignition coils can fail to operate at normal (warmer) operating temperatures. If the ignition coil has tested okay in
the vehicle and on the bench, but fails to operate reliably, replace the coil with a known good coil and operate the
engine for several minutes to ensure that the coil functions at normal operating temperature. If the new coil functions
properly, keep the new coil in the circuit.
1. Disconnect battery and spark plug wire(s). See Disconnecting the Battery – Gasoline Vehicles, Section
1, Page 1-3.
2. Using a multimeter set to 200 ohms, measure the primary coil resistance.
2.1. Disconnect both of the bullet terminals at the RPM limiter (Figure 11-18, Page 11-20). Place the red (+)
probe of the meter on the male bullet terminal of the wire connecting to the ignition coil under the fan
housing, and place the black (–) probe on a clean unpainted surface of the engine or frame (Figure
11-19, Page 11-21).
2.2. If the resistance is not between 0.6 - 1.7 ohms, bench test the ignition coil.
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1000 ---
FUSED
750V
467
Figure 11-19 Primary Coil Resistance – In Vehicle Test
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200k
20k 200
2k A
V ! COM ! 200nA
MAX
1000 ---
FUSED
750V
2 1 3
CAP
469 470
Figure 11-21 Ignition Coil and Cap Figure 11-22 Spark Plug Cap Removal
4.3. Using a multimeter set to 20k ohms, place the red (+) probe of the multimeter into the end of the spark plug
cap that normally connects to the spark plug and place the black (–) probe into the end of the cap with the
internal screw (Figure 11-23, Page 11-23). If the resistance is not between 4.5k - 6.0k ohms, the cap has
failed and must be replaced. Proceed to the next step with the spark plug cap still removed.
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20k 200
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V ! COM ! 200nA
MAX
1000 ---
FUSED
1
750V
471
Figure 11-23 Spark Plug Cap Test
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FUSED
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1. Remove the coil from the engine. See Ignition Coil Removal on page 12-27.
2. Using a multimeter set to 200 ohms, measure the primary coil resistance.
2.1. Place the black (–) probe of the meter on the terminal on the ignition coil (1), and place the red (+) probe on
the core (2) (Figure 11-25, Page 11-25).
2 3
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200
m
2m
20
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m m
200
2000
k m
200k
20k 200
2k A
V ! COM ! 200nA
MAX
1000 ---
FUSED
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V ! COM ! 200nA
MAX
1000 ---
1
FUSED
750V
473 474
Figure 11-25 Primary Coil Resistance – Bench Test Figure 11-26 Secondary Coil and Cap Resistance – Bench
Test
2.2. If the resistance is not between 0.6 - 1.7 ohms, replace the ignition coil.
3. Using a multimeter set to 20k ohms, measure the resistance of the secondary coil and spark plug cap together.
3.1. Place the red (+) probe of the meter into the end of the spark plug cap (3) that normally connects to the
spark plug and place the black (–) probe on the core (2) (Figure 11-26, Page 11-25).
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20k 200
2k A
V ! COM ! 200nA
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FUSED
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475
Figure 11-27 Secondary Coil Resistance – Bench Test
3.2. If the resistance is between 12.0k - 14.0k ohms, the secondary coil and spark plug cap are within acceptable
limits; proceed to step 6 on page 12-26. If the resistance is not between 12.0k - 14.0k ohms, the spark plug
cap and secondary coil must be tested independently from each other.
4. If not previously tested, test the spark plug cap separately from the secondary coil.
4.1. Remove the rubber gasket (1) on the plug cap (2) by rolling back the gasket onto the spark plug wire (3)
(Figure 11-21, Page 11-23).
4.2. Remove the cap from the wire by turning the cap counterclockwise three or four revolutions while gently
pulling it off the wire (Figure 11-22, Page 11-23).
4.3. Using a multimeter set to 20k ohms, place the red (+) probe of the multimeter into the end of the spark plug
cap that normally connects to the spark plug and place the black (–) probe into the end of the cap with the
internal screw (Figure 11-23, Page 11-23). If the resistance is not between 4.5k - 6.0k ohms, the cap has
failed and must be replaced. Proceed to the next step with the spark plug cap still removed.
5. Test the secondary coil separately from the spark plug cap.
5.1. Using a multimeter set to 20k ohms, place the red (+) probe of the meter into the end of the spark plug wire
(3) and place the black (–) probe on the core (2) (Figure 11-27, Page 11-26). If the resistance is between
6.0k - 11.0k ohms, the secondary coil is within acceptable limits. If the resistance is not between 6.0k -
11.0k ohms, the ignition coil has failed and must be replaced.
6. If the preceding tests indicate that the ignition coil resistance readings are within acceptable ranges, but the coil
fails to function properly, replace the ignition coil and cap.
7. Connect battery and spark plug wire(s). See Connecting the Battery – Gasoline Vehicles, Section 1, Page 1-3.
The kill limit switch is located inside the electrical component box. The accelerator kill switch is the lower of the two
limit switches and has a white/black wire and black wire connected to it.
1. Disconnect battery and spark plug wire(s). See Disconnecting the Battery – Gasoline Vehicles, Section
1, Page 1-3.
2. Check for proper wiring and tight connections.
3. Disconnect the wires from the limit switch and test the limit switch for continuity.
– Place the red (+) probe of the multimeter on the common (COM) terminal (white/black wire) of the limit switch.
Place the black (–) probe on the normally open (NO) terminal (black wire) of the limit switch. Without the lever
pressed, the reading should be no continuity. Press the lever, and the reading should be continuity. If either
reading is incorrect, replace the limit switch (Figure 11-28, Page 11-27).
4. Connect wires to limit switch and check for tight connections.
5. Connect battery and spark plug wire(s). See Connecting the Battery – Gasoline Vehicles, Section 1, Page 1-3.
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200 200
20 200 NO
2 2m
200
m
20
m
200
COM
2000
k m
200k
20k 200
2k A
V ! COM ! 200nA
MAX
1000 ---
FUSED
750V
476
Figure 11-28 Kill Limit Switch Test
1. Disconnect battery and spark plug wire(s). See Disconnecting the Battery – Gasoline Vehicles, Section
1, Page 1-3.
2. Remove the center dash assembly. See Key Switch Removal on page 12-13.
3. Disconnect wires from the (+M) and (–M) terminals of the key switch.
4. Place the red (+) probe on the (+M) terminal and the black (–) probe on the (–M) terminal. With the key switch
OFF, the reading should be continuity. With the key switch ON, the reading should be no continuity. If either
reading is incorrect, replace the key switch (Figure 11-29, Page 11-28).
5. Connect wires to the key switch. Make sure wires are connected correctly and are tight. If they are not, rewire
or tighten as necessary.
6. Install dash panel in reverse order of removal.
7. Connect battery and spark plug wire(s). See Connecting the Battery – Gasoline Vehicles, Section 1, Page 1-3.
1
WAVETEK 5XL –M
V
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OFF
500
V 2
200 200 +M
20 200
2 2m
200 20
m m
200
2000
k m
200k
20k 200
2k A
V ! COM ! 200nA
MAX
1000 ---
FUSED
750V
1337
Figure 11-29 Key Switch Test – Engine Kill Circuit
1. Disconnect battery and spark plug wire(s). See Disconnecting the Battery – Gasoline Vehicles, Section
1, Page 1-3.
2. Disconnect white/black wire bullet connector located at the engine RPM limiter (Figure 11-17, Page 11-19).
3. Connect red (+) probe of multimeter to the male bullet terminal on the white/black wire and connect the black
(–) probe to the vehicle frame.
4. Turn the key switch ON, place the Forward/Reverse handle in FORWARD, and press the accelerator pedal.
There should be no continuity. If there is continuity, check for worn insulation on the white/black wire that may be
allowing the engine kill wire to ground to the frame.
5. Connect battery and spark plug wire(s). See Connecting the Battery – Gasoline Vehicles, Section 1, Page 1-3.
NOTE: Keep the battery connected while performing this test procedure.
The reverse buzzer limit switch is located on the Forward/Reverse shifter; red/white and orange wires are connected to
it.
1. Place the Forward/Reverse handle in the NEUTRAL position and the neutral lockout switch or cam in the
MAINTENANCE position. Chock the wheels.
2. Move the Forward/Reverse handle to REVERSE and listen for an audible click from the limit switch. If there is no
click, check the switch for proper alignment and switch arm movement.
3. If the switch is being activated but the buzzer does not function, place the red (+) probe of the multimeter on one
terminal and the black (–) probe on the other terminal of the limit switch. Without the lever pressed, the reading
should be no continuity. Press the lever and the reading should be continuity. If either reading is incorrect, replace
limit switch. See Reverse Buzzer Limit Switch Removal on page 12-22.
The reverse buzzer is mounted to the center dash assembly under the front body.
1. Disconnect battery and spark plug wire(s). See Disconnecting the Battery – Gasoline Vehicles, Section
1, Page 1-3.
2. To test the front reverse buzzer, remove center dash panel. See Key Switch Removal on page 12-13.
3. Check for proper wiring and tight connections. Using a multimeter, individually check for continuity through each
wire that connects to the reverse buzzer. See Wiring Diagram – Gasoline Vehicle on page 11-6. If the buzzer
will not function when properly wired, replace the buzzer.
4. Connect battery and spark plug wire(s). See Connecting the Battery – Gasoline Vehicles, Section 1, Page 1-3.
1. Disconnect battery and spark plug wire(s). See Disconnecting the Battery – Gasoline Vehicles, Section
1, Page 1-3.
2. Remove the center dash assembly. See Key Switch Removal on page 12-13.
3. Ensure that the wires are connected correctly and are tight. If they are not, rewire or tighten as necessary. See
Wiring Diagram – Gasoline Vehicle on page 11-6.
4. Disconnect the yellow wire (to the oil level sensor) from the terminal on the low oil warning light. Using an alligator
clip jumper wire, connect the low oil warning light terminal to the vehicle frame. Connect the red (+) battery cable
to the positive (+) battery post, then attach the black (–) cable to the negative (–) battery post.
5. Turn the key switch ON. The low oil warning light should illuminate. If it does not, check continuity of the yellow
wire that connects the key switch to the low oil warning light. If there is no continuity in the wire, replace the wire.
Then test the key switch. See Key Switch (Starter Circuit) on page 11-13. If the yellow wire and the key
switch test okay, then replace the low oil warning light.
6. Connect battery and spark plug wire(s). See Connecting the Battery – Gasoline Vehicles, Section 1, Page 1-3.
NOTE: Keep the battery connected while performing this test procedure.
1. Place the Forward/Reverse handle in the NEUTRAL position, the neutral lockout switch or cam in the
MAINTENANCE position, turn the key switch to the OFF position, disconnect the spark plug wire, and chock
the wheels.
2. Ensure that the low oil warning light and all connecting wires are functioning correctly. See Low Oil Warning
Light on page 11-29.
3. Drain the engine oil into an approved container and properly dispose of used oil.
4. Turn the key switch ON, closing the circuit. The low oil warning light should illuminate. If the low oil warning light
does not illuminate, the oil level sensor needs to be replaced. See Oil Level Sensor Removal on page 13-5.
5. Install a new oil filter and fill the engine with new oil before returning the vehicle to service. See Engine Oil –
Gasoline Vehicles on page 10-8.
Check to be sure the lobes on the cam are pressing the neutral lockout limit switch lever as the Forward/Reverse
handle is being shifted. The limit switch should make an audible click as it is pressed. If it does not, check for wear
on the cam lobes. Be sure the cam has snapped fully back into place. If the cam lobes still do not activate the limit
switch, replace the cam.
NOTE: Keep the battery connected while performing this test procedure.
1. Place the Forward/Reverse handle in the NEUTRAL position and the neutral lockout switch or cam in the
MAINTENANCE position. Chock the wheels.
2. Set a multimeter to 20 volts DC and place the red (+) probe on the F2 (white wire) terminal on the starter/generator.
Place the black (–) probe on the negative (–) battery post.
3. Turn the key switch to the ON position, leave the Forward/Reverse shifter in the NEUTRAL position and press the
accelerator pedal (with the accelerator pedal pressed, the battery is under load).
3.1. If the voltage reading is over 9.6 volts, with an electrolyte temperature of 70 °F (21 °C), check the
starter/generator. See following NOTE.
NOTE: The voltage reading listed is for electrolyte at 70 °F (21 °C). At lower electrolyte temperatures the voltage
reading will be lower.
4. If the reading is below 9.6 volts, with an electrolyte temperature of 70 °F (21 °C), check the battery. See
Battery on page 11-9.
4.1. If the reading is zero, there may be no continuity across the large posts of the solenoid. See Solenoid
on page 11-14.
5. If all of the test results are good and the voltage reading is zero, there may be a broken or damaged 6-gauge
white wire from the solenoid to the starter/generator. See Starter/Generator (Starter Function) on page 11-16.
WARNING
• To avoid the possibility of fire or explosion, make sure the fuel tank cap is securely in place while
performing this test procedure.
1. Disconnect battery. See Disconnecting the Battery – Gasoline Vehicles, Section 1, Page 1-3.
2. Disconnect the orange wire from the center post of the fuel level sending unit.
3. With a multimeter set to 2k ohms, place the red (+) probe of the multimeter on the center post of the sending unit.
Place the black (–) probe on the ground connection of the sending unit (Figure 11-30, Page 11-31).
4. The following resistance readings (in ohms) should be obtained depending on the position of the float inside
the fuel tank. The resistance reading will vary according to the exact position of the float. The chart below may
be used as a guideline to determine if the fuel level sending unit is operating correctly. Make sure the float
is at the surface of the fuel in the tank.
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! !
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V COM 200nA
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1
3
479
Figure 11-30 Fuel Level Sending Unit Test
5. If the readings are within the specifications listed above, the fuel level sending unit is working properly. If the
readings are incorrect, the fuel level sending unit has failed and the fuel tank must be replaced. See Fuel
Tank Removal, Section 14, Page 14-21.
6. If the readings are correct and the fuel gauge does not function correctly, check the continuity of the orange wire
from the fuel level sending unit to the fuel gauge/hour meter. Leave the battery disconnected while checking
continuity. Also check the continuity of the blue wire from the fuel gauge/hour meter to the key switch, and the
black ground wires at the fuel level sending unit and at the fuel gauge/hour meter. See Fuel Gauge/Hour
Meter Removal on page 12-24.
7. If the readings are correct according to the position of the float, but give an incorrect reading on the fuel
gauge/hour meter, test the fuel gauge/hour meter.
1 2
6 7
480
Figure 11-31 Fuel Gauge/Hour Meter
NOTE: Keep the battery connected during this test procedure.
1. Turn the key switch OFF and remove the key. Place the Forward/Reverse handle in the NEUTRAL position.
Chock the wheels.
2. Remove the instrument panel to gain access to the back of the fuel gauge/hour meter. See Key Switch
Removal on page 12-13.
3. Place a sheet of insulating material between the front frame and the electrical connections on the rear of the
instrument panel to prevent contact between the two.
4. Disconnect the orange wire from the fuel gauge/hour meter.
5. Set a multimeter to 20 volts DC and place the red (+) probe of the multimeter on the positive post of the battery.
Place the black (–) probe on the negative post of the battery. Record the voltage reading.
6. Set a multimeter to 20 volts DC and place the red (+) probe on the (2) terminal of the fuel gauge/hour meter with
the blue wire is connected. Place the black (–) probe on the (1) terminal of the fuel gauge/hour meter with the
black wire (Figure 11-32, Page 11-33).
7. Connect battery. See Connecting the Battery – Gasoline Vehicles, Section 1, Page 1-3.
8. Turn the key switch ON. The voltage reading should be the same as the battery voltage reading recorded earlier.
If not, check the continuity of the blue and black wires (Figure 11-32, Page 11-33).
9. The orange wire should remain disconnected for this step. Place the black probe of the multimeter on the (1)
terminal of the fuel gauge/hour meter and place the red (+) probe on the (4) terminal of the fuel gauge/hour
meter (Figure 11-33, Page 11-33). The voltage reading should be approximately 4.94 volts. If the reading is
incorrect, replace the fuel gauge/hour meter.
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20k
2k A
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7
V ! COM ! 200nA
V ! COM ! 200nA
MAX
5
1000 --- MAX
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1 3 1
1. 20 VDC Setting 2. Orange 3. Black 4. White 5. Blue 1. 20 VDC Setting 2. Orange
481 482
Figure 11-32 Fuel Gauge Voltage Test - Terminal 2 Figure 11-33 Fuel Gauge Voltage Test - Terminal 4
NOTE: Keep the battery connected while performing this test procedure.
DANGER
• Do not operate vehicle in an enclosed area without proper ventilation. The engine produces carbon
monoxide, which is an odorless, deadly poison.
4. With engine idling, the "hour glass" icon should flash. If not, check the low oil warning light and the oil pressure
switch. See following NOTE. See also Test Procedure 21 – Low Oil Warning Light on page 11-29.
NOTE: The hour meter is designed to record actual engine running time and will not start adding increments until the
engine is running and the oil pressure switch has opened.
5. If the hour meter still does not function after the low oil warning light, oil pressure switch, and all of the appropriate
wires have been checked for continuity, replace the fuel gauge/hour meter.
1. Turn the key switch OFF and remove the key. Place the Forward/Reverse handle in the NEUTRAL position.
Chock the wheels.
2. Disconnect battery and spark plug wire(s). See Disconnecting the Battery – Gasoline Vehicles, Section
1, Page 1-3.
3. Remove the instrument panel. See Key Switch Removal on page 12-13.
4. Using a multimeter set on 20 volts DC, place alligator clips on the multimeter probes. Connect the red (+) probe
to the light switch terminal with the blue wire connected to it (Figure 11-34, Page 11-34).
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FUSED
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483
Figure 11-34 Light Switch Test
1. Turn the key switch OFF and remove the key. Place the Forward/Reverse handle in the NEUTRAL position.
Chock the wheels.
2. Disconnect battery and spark plug wire(s). See Disconnecting the Battery – Gasoline Vehicles, Section
1, Page 1-3.
3. Remove the instrument panel. See Key Switch Removal, Section 12, Page 12-13.
4. Using a multimeter set on 20 volts DC, connect the red (+) probe to the light switch terminal with the yellow
wire (Figure 11-35, Page 11-35).
5. Loosen the black wire connector (on the end of the long black wire) at the voltage limiter just enough to maintain
the connection and yet expose part of the metal terminal in the connector. Place black (–) probe on the connector
(Figure 11-35, Page 11-35).
6. Connect the battery cables temporarily, positive (+) cable first.
7. Pull the light switch to the ON position. The reading should be 11-12 volts. If the there is no voltage reading,
check continuity of the 16-gauge black wire from the headlight to the voltage limiter. Check continuity of the
16-gauge black wire from voltage limiter to the vehicle frame. If the wires show continuity and the readings are
still incorrect, replace the voltage limiter. See Voltage Limiter Removal, Section 12, Page 12-31.
8. With the Forward/Reverse handle in the NEUTRAL position and the wheels chocked, start the engine and
press the accelerator pedal to the floor.
9. Push the light switch to the OFF position. The reading should be 14.7-15.3 volts.
10. Pull the light switch to the ON position. The reading should be 11-13 volts. If the reading does not drop from
14.5-15.5 volts to 11-13 volts, replace the voltage limiter. See Voltage Limiter Removal, Section 12, Page 12-31.
11. Install the instrument panel. See Key Switch Installation, Section 12, Page 12-15.
12. Connect battery and spark plug wire(s). See Connecting the Battery – Gasoline Vehicles, Section 1, Page 1-3.
NOTE: Keep the battery connected while performing this test procedure.
1. Turn the key switch OFF and remove the key. Place the Forward/Reverse handle in the NEUTRAL position.
Chock the wheels.
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20 200
2 2m
200
m
2000
20
m
200
m
4 6
k
200k
20k 200
2k A
V ! COM ! 200nA
3 7
MAX
1000 ---
FUSED
750V
1 2
1. 20 VDC Setting 2. Light Switch 3. Yellow Wire 4. Blue Wire 5. Voltage Limiter 6. Black Wires 7. Frame Ground
484
Figure 11-35 Voltage Limiter Circuit Test
2. Inspect wires at light bulb socket. Make sure wires are securely fastened to the contacts inside socket.
3. Remove the wire harness from the headlight (Figure 11-36, Page 11-36).
4. Using a multimeter set to 20 volts DC, place the black (–) probe of multimeter into the black wire terminal of the
wire harness. Place the red (+) probe into the blue wire terminal.
5. Pull the light switch to the ON position. If the multimeter reads approximately 12 volts, replace the bulb.
6. If there is no voltage reading at the wire harness, check continuity of the 16-gauge blue wire from the headlight
to the light switch. Using a multimeter set to 20 volts DC, attach using an alligator clip, the black (–) probe of
multimeter onto the negative battery terminal and place the red (+) probe into the blue wire terminal of the wire
harness. If multimeter reading is approximately 12 volts, the blue wire has continuity.
7. Check continuity of the 16-gauge black wire from the headlight to the ground terminal. Using a multimeter set
to 20 volts DC, place the black (–) probe of multimeter into the black wire terminal of the wire harness and
attach using an alligator clip, the red (+) probe onto the positive battery terminal. If the multimeter reading is
approximately 12 volts, the black wire has continuity.
WAVETEK 5XL
V OFF V
1000 500
200 200
20 200
2 2m
200 20
m m
200
2000
k m
200k
20k 200
2k A
V ! COM ! 200nA
MAX
1000 ---
FUSED
750V
485
Figure 11-36 Check Voltage to Headlight Socket
DANGER
• See General Warnings on page 1-1.
WARNING
• See General Warnings on page 1-1.
STARTER/GENERATOR REMOVAL
1. Disconnect battery and spark plug wire(s). See Disconnecting the Battery – Gasoline Vehicles, Section
1, Page 1-3.
2. Place the neutral lockout switch or cam in the MAINTENANCE position. Remove the access panel on a DS
Golf Car or Villager 4 vehicle.
3. Mark and disconnect the wires from the starter/generator (1). Loosen the two pivot nuts (7) and bolts (5) (Figure
12-1, Page 12-2).
4. Remove the mounting/adjustment nut (12), washer (9) and bolt (11). Lower the starter/generator and remove
the belt (4) from the pulley (10).
1 5
2
7
17
DF
15
16
F2
14
A1
A2 F1
13
12 9 11 4
10
1338
Figure 12-1 Starter/Generator Removal
5. Support the starter/generator so that when the pivot bolts are removed the starter/generator will not fall to the
ground. Remove the two pivot nuts (7) and bolts (5) from the mounting bracket.
6. Remove the starter/generator.
1. Remove brush covers (29 and 30), screws (25) and lock washers (26), brush springs (28), and brushes (27)
(Figure 12-3, Page 12-3). Pull back each brush spring and pull the brushes back from the center of the
commutator end cover. The springs will rest on the sides of the brushes and help prevent them from sliding
towards the center of the cover (Figure 12-6, Page 12-4). See following NOTE.
NOTE: If the brushes are not removed, contact between the brushes and commutator as the commutator end cover is
being removed or installed could damage the brushes.
2. Remove the two bolts (20) and pull commutator end cover (23) free of starter/generator housing (24) (Figure
12-2, Page 12-3).
3. Remove terminal hardware (31), screws and lock washers (25), brush holder assembly (26), brush springs (28),
and brushes (27). Make note of the routing of the brushes and wires between the brush holder assembly and the
inside of the commutator end cover for later reassembly (Figure 12-3, Page 12-3). See following NOTE.
NOTE: Clean and inspect the armature/commutator and the bearings. See Disassembly of the Starter/Generator
to Service the Armature/Commutator on page 12-5.
23
23
29
26
25 31
20
30
24
27
28
487 1339
Figure 12-2 Commutator End Cover Figure 12-3 Brush Covers and Brushes
1. Visually inspect brushes. Replace brushes that are cracked or severely chipped.
2. Check the length of each brush. If the overall length of any brush is less than 0.79 inch (20 mm), replace all
four brushes (Figure 12-4, Page 12-3).
0
1/2
1/2
1340
Figure 12-4 Inspect Brushes
1. Visually inspect springs. Replace all four springs if any spring is discolored from heat (straw or bluish in color).
2. Install the four brushes (27) into their holders and insert the four brush springs (28) (Figure 12-3, Page 12-3).
Insert the brush wiring terminal studs through the commutator end cover (23) and assemble using the terminal
hardware (31). Route the brush wiring between the brush holder assembly (26) and the inside of the commutator
end cover cover (23) and assemble using the screws and lock washers (25). Using a spring scale, test brush
spring tension. If any spring has a tension less than 14.8 ounces (4.1 N), replace all four springs (Figure 12-5,
Page 12-4). See following CAUTION.
CAUTION
• When checking brush spring tension, do not push springs beyond the point they would normally be if
there were new brushes installed. Exerting excessive force or pushing brush springs beyond their
normal maximum extension point will damage springs.
0
5
10
15
20
25
30
35
4
4 0
50 5
490
Figure 12-5 Brush Spring Tension Test
STARTER/GENERATOR ASSEMBLY
1. To prevent contact between the brushes and commutator as the commutator is installed, and possible damage
to the brushes, pull back each brush spring and pull the brushes back from the center of the commutator end
cover. The springs will rest on the sides of the brushes and help prevent them from sliding towards the center
of the cover (Figure 12-6, Page 12-4).
2. Install the commutator end cover (23) onto the armature shaft. Orient the commutator end cover with the field coil
housing as shown. Install two M5 x 20 mm bolts (20) and tighten to 60 in-lb (6.8 N·m) (Figure 12-2, Page 12-3).
3. Push the brushes down into the holders. Position springs so that brushes are being held against the commutator.
Install the brush cover (30) that has the drain hole in it next to the A2 terminal. Install the remaining three brush
covers (29) in the openings in the commutator end cover (23) (Figure 12-3, Page 12-3).
1341
Figure 12-6 Pull Brushes Away From Center of the Commutator End Cover
1. Remove the commutator end cover to prevent damage to the brushes and armature. See Disassembly of the
Starter/Generator to Service the Brushes on page 12-2.
2. To separate armature and output end cover assembly from the field coil housing, first remove the two securing
bolts (43). Carefully remove armature and output end cover assembly from the field coil housing so components
are not damaged.
3. To separate armature (33) from output end cover (36), remove nut (41), lock washer (40), pulley (39). It may be
necessary to use the wedge attachment tool (CC P/N 1012812) to remove the pulley from the shaft.
4. Remove the internal retaining ring (32) to release the bearing (35) and armature (33) from the output end cover
(36) (Figure 12-7, Page 12-5).
33
32
35 33
36
43
39
40
41
1342
Figure 12-7 Armature and Output End Cover Assembly
1. Using a clean cloth, wipe the carbon dust from the two bearings. Inspect bearings by spinning them by hand and
checking for both axial (A) and radial (B) play (Figure 12-8, Page 12-6).
2. Replace the bearing if it is noisy, does not spin smoothly, or has excessive play. Check the bearings and replace if
rusted, worn, cracked, or if there is an abnormal color change in the metal of the bearing. Bearings should be
replaced if there is extensive wear or pitting on the balls or on the rolling surfaces. Do not remove the bearings
unless they are to be replaced.
493
Figure 12-8 Bearing Play Inspection
BEARING REMOVAL
1. Place the wedge attachment tool (CC P/N 1012812) between the bearing and the armature. Make sure the
wedge attachment tool is supporting the inner race of the bearing. If a press is not available, secure a bearing
puller (CC P/N 1012811) to the wedge attachment tool and pull the bearing off of the end of the armature shaft.
Support the armature so that it will not drop when the bearing is removed (Figure 12-9, Page 12-6).
2. Slide the bearing retainer ring (32) off of the output end of the shaft (Figure 12-7, Page 12-5).
2 7
1 5
4
6
1. Press Ram 2. Wedge Attachment Tool 3. Bearing sectioned for clarity 4. Support inner race of bearing 5. Use a 1/2 inch socket or pipe 6.
Press against armature shaft 7. Use bearing puller if a press is not available
494
Figure 12-9 Bearing Removal
Replace entire field coil housing assembly if coils, pole shoes or terminals are damaged (Figure 12-10, Page 12-7).
Obvious defects can be seen by examining the armature. If an armature has frayed or charred insulation, broken wires
or thrown solder, it is obvious without testing that it should be replaced. Faults seen during the visual inspection can aid
in diagnosing the original cause of the failure. Items to look for are listed below.
• Burned, charred, or cracked insulation
• Improperly cured varnish
• Thrown solder
• Flared armature windings
• Worn, burned, or glazed commutator
• Loose or raised commutator bars
• Bruised or damaged armature core laminations
• Worn armature bearing or shaft
• Dirty or oily commutator
2 2
1
3
6
5
7
7
1. Pole Set 2. Pole Piece Screw 3. Retaining Nut 4. Insulator 5. Field Coil Terminal 6. Housing 7. Field Coil
495
Figure 12-10 Field Coil Assembly
1. Clean the carbon dust, dirt and oil from the commutator. Visually inspect the commutator for worn, burned or
glazed areas. Check for loose or raised commutator bars. Slight roughness of the commutator can be polished
away with 400 grit (or finer) sandpaper. See following CAUTION.
CAUTION
• Do not use emery cloth on the commutator. Particles of emery are conductive and may short-circuit
the commutator bars. Do not use oil or lubricants on the commutator or brushes.
2. Using a micrometer, measure the outside diameter at two points along the commutator. If the commutator outside
diameter is less than 1.60 inches (40.6 mm), replace the armature and bearings (Figure 12-11, Page 12-8).
A1 A1
1
B1 B1
A1
A2
496
Figure 12-11 Inspect Commutator
CAUTION
• Do not submerge armature in solvent.
NOTE: Before testing, wipe the armature with a clean cloth and remove carbon dust and metal particles from between
commutator bars.
1. Using a multimeter set on 200 (ohms), place the positive (+) probe on the commutator bars and the negative
(–) probe on the armature core. The reading should be no continuity. If the reading is incorrect, replace the
armature and the two bearings (Figure 12-12, Page 12-9).
- +
WAVETEK 5XL
V OFF V
1000 500
200 200
20 200
2 2m
200 20
m m
200
2000
k m
200k
20k 200
2k A
V ! COM ! 200nA
MAX
1000 ---
FUSED
750V
1 3
497
Figure 12-12 Armature Ground Test
If the insulation on the field coils appears blackened or charred, the serviceability of the coils is questionable. Burned
or scorched coil insulation indicates the starter/generator has overheated due to overloads or grounded or shorted coil
windings. Be sure the insulators are tight in the housing.
STARTER/GENERATOR REWORK
Any rework must be performed by a qualified technician. Starter/generator service specifications are listed in
the following table.
Undercut (Commutator must have a minimum diameter of 1.65 in (42 mm) for
0.050 in. (1.3 mm)
reslotting):
STARTER/GENERATOR ASSEMBLY
1. Slide the bearing retainer (32) onto the output end of the armature shaft (33) (Figure 12-7, Page 12-5).
2. Press a new ball bearing (35) onto the output end of the armature. Press a new ball bearing onto the commutator
end of the armature shaft. See following CAUTION.
CAUTION
• To prevent damage to the retainer, use care while pressing new bearing onto the output end of the
shaft.
• Press against the inner race of the new bearing until it is fully seated.
3. Install the drive end cover (36) onto the armature. Secure the bearing retainer ring (32).
4. Slide the housing with field coils over the armature. Use the tapped mounting holes to align housing to the cover,
rotate and orient as shown. See following NOTE.
NOTE: The terminal insulators should be on the commutator end of the housing.
5. To prevent contact between the brushes and commutator as the commutator cover is installed, and possible
damage to the brushes, lift the brush springs out of the notches in the brushes and pull the brushes back from the
center of the commutator end cover. The springs will rest on the sides of the brushes and help prevent them
from sliding towards the center of the cover (Figure 12-6, Page 12-4).
6. Install the commutator end cover (23) onto the armature shaft. Use the tapped mounting holes to align housing to
the cover, rotate and orient as shown. Install the two M6 x 180 mm bolts (20), and tighten to 60 in-lb (6.8
N·m) (Figure 12-2, Page 12-3).
7. Push the brushes down into the holders. Place springs into the notches in the brushes. Install the brush cover
(30) that has the drain hole in it next to the A2 terminal. Install the remaining three brush covers (29) in the
openings in the commutator end cover (23) (Figure 12-3, Page 12-3).
8. Install the belt pulley (39) onto the shaft, and install the lock washer (40) and M14 nut (41). Tighten the nut to 30
ft-lb (40.7 N·m) (Figure 12-7, Page 12-5).
STARTER/GENERATOR INSTALLATION
1. Install the green wire from the F1 terminal to the A1 terminal on the starter/generator (Figure 12-1, Page 12-2).
Install a flat washer, lock washer, and nut onto each terminal and tighten to 48 in-lb (5.4 N·m).
2. Install two 3/8-inch hex-head pivot bolts (5) into the mounting bracket with the heads of the bolts facing toward
the driver-side of the vehicle. Position the starter/generator in the mounting bracket so that the bolts will go
through the starter/generator before going through the bracket. Install a lock nut (7) onto each bolt. Tighten to
finger tight (Figure 12-13, Page 12-11).
3. Install the adjustment bolt (11) through the adjusting bracket (4) and then through the starter/generator. Install a
lock washer (9) and 5/16-inch nut (12) onto the end of the adjustment bolt (11). Tighten to finger tight (Figure
12-13, Page 12-11).
4. Install the belt (3), then tighten the mounting bolts. See Belt Tension Adjustment on page 12-12.
5. Connect the yellow wire from the voltage regulator to the DF terminal on the starter/generator. Install a flat
washer, lock washer, and nut onto the terminal. Tighten the nut to 18 in-lb (2.0 N·m).
6. Install the white wire from the solenoid to the F2 terminal on the starter/generator. Install the black wire from the
frame to the A2 terminal on the starter/generator. Install a flat washer, lock washer and nut onto each terminal,
and tighten the nut to 45 in-lb (5.1 N·m). Bundle and tie wrap excess wire.
7. Connect battery and spark plug wire(s). See Connecting the Battery – Gasoline Vehicles, Section 1, Page 1-3.
2 5
13
7
10
12
9
4 11
498
Figure 12-13 Starter/Generator Installation
499
Figure 12-14 Belt Tension Gauge
Belt tension should be checked periodically. If the belt slips when starter/generator motor operates, adjust belt
to correct tension.
1. Disconnect battery and spark plug wire(s). See Disconnecting the Battery – Gasoline Vehicles, Section
1, Page 1-3.
2. Remove the access panel on a DS Golf Car or Villager 4 vehicle.
3. Make sure the two pivot bolts (5) on the mounting bracket are finger tight. The carriage bolt (11) and hex nut (12)
are to be finger tight also (Figure 12-13, Page 12-11).
4. Push the starter/generator down so it is at the lowest point of its adjustment travel. With the starter/generator belt
in place around the drive clutch pulley, install the starter/generator belt (3) around the pulley (10) on the end
of the starter/generator.
5. Position a pry bar (13) between the top of the starter/generator mounting bracket (2) and the underside of the
starter/generator by passing the pry bar under the exhaust header.
6. While holding the pry bar, measure the belt tension using a Krikit® gauge (1) (available at NAPA® Auto Parts
stores), or equivalent. Proper tension for a new starter/generator belt should be 75 lb. (101.7 N) or 45 lb. (61
N) for an existing belt (Figure 12-14, Page 12-11).
7. While maintaining the tension, tighten the adjustment nut (12) to 144 in-lb (16.3 N·m). Tighten the two pivot bolts
(5) and hex nuts (7) to 23 ft-lb (31.2 N·m) (Figure 12-13, Page 12-11). See following CAUTION.
CAUTION
• Remove pry bar before starting engine.
8. Connect battery and spark plug wire(s). See Connecting the Battery – Gasoline Vehicles, Section 1, Page 1-3.
VOLTAGE REGULATOR
1. Disconnect battery and spark plug wire(s). See Disconnecting the Battery – Gasoline Vehicles, Section
1, Page 1-3.
2. Remove the electrical component box cover.
3. Disconnect the voltage regulator red wire (1) at the large post on the solenoid, the yellow wire (4) at the bullet
connector, and the black wire (7) from the (NO) terminal of the kill limit switch and at the battery frame ground
(Figure 12-15, Page 12-13).
4. Remove the voltage regulator mounting screw (8) and remove the voltage regulator (9).
1
2
4
8
500
Figure 12-15 Voltage Regulator
1. Position the voltage regulator (9) in the electrical component box and install the mounting screw (8) (Figure
12-15, Page 12-13). Tighten screw to 23 in-lb (2.6 N·m).
2. Connect the voltage regulator red wire (1) at the large post on the solenoid, the yellow wire (4) at the bullet
connector, and the black wire (7) at the battery frame ground (Figure 12-15, Page 12-13).
3. Install snap-on electrical component box cover. Be sure to firmly press down all corners. Install screw and
tighten to 18 in-lb (2 N·m).
4. Connect battery and spark plug wire(s). See Connecting the Battery – Gasoline Vehicles, Section 1, Page 1-3.
5. Place Forward/Reverse handle in NEUTRAL and place the neutral lockout switch in the MAINTENANCE position.
Start the engine and check regulator for proper functioning as described in the voltage regulator test procedure.
See Voltage Regulator on page 11-18.
KEY SWITCH
See Test Procedure 17 – Key Switch (Engine Kill Circuit) on page 11-27.
1. Disconnect battery and spark plug wire(s). See Disconnecting the Battery – Gasoline Vehicles, Section
1, Page 1-3.
NOTE: Take care to prevent key switch terminals and wires from touching the metal frame around the dash.
2
3
516
Figure 12-16 Center Dash Panel Removal
3. Slide center dash panel up steering column by snapping top out and then rotating the panel out and up.
4. Disconnect the wires from the key switch. Do not allow wires to touch.
5. From the back of the dash panel, push down on the retaining tabs surrounding the key switch (4) and remove
the key switch cap (8). Hold the key switch and remove the switch retaining nut (6) from the outside of the
dash panel (Figure 12-17, Page 12-15).
7 4
9
6
1. Position the key switch and flat washer (9) in the center dash, then install and tighten the switch retaining nut (6)
to 40 in-lb (4.5 N·m). Install key switch cap (8) in center dash. (Figure 12-17, Page 12-15)
2. Refer to the wiring diagram to connect the wires to the key switch terminals and tighten the terminal screws to 7
in-lb (0.8 N·m). See Wiring Diagram – Gasoline Vehicle, Section 11, Page 11-6. Coat the connectors with
Battery Terminal Protector Spray (CC P/N 1014305) to prevent corrosion.
3. Install center dash by reversing removal procedure. Make sure key switch terminals (7) do not touch frame and
that the center dash panel is properly seated and snapped into place (Figure 12-16, Page 12-14).
4. Connect battery and spark plug wire(s). See Connecting the Battery – Gasoline Vehicles, Section 1, Page 1-3.
SOLENOID
SOLENOID REMOVAL
1. Disconnect battery and spark plug wire(s). See Disconnecting the Battery – Gasoline Vehicles, Section
1, Page 1-3.
SOLENOID INSTALLATION
1. Install the solenoid in the electrical component box. Use two screws to secure the solenoid to the box and
tighten to 14 in-lb (1.6 N·m).
2. Connect all wires as indicated. See Wiring Diagram – Gasoline Vehicle on page 11-6.
2.1. Connect the 6-gauge white wire from the starter/generator, the 18-gauge white wire from the fuel gauge/hour
meter (if equipped), and the 18-gauge red wire from the voltage regulator to the large post on the solenoid.
2.2. Connect the 6-gauge red wire from the battery terminal and the 10-gauge red wire from the fuse block to
the other large post on the solenoid.
2.3. Connect the 16-gauge orange wire from accelerator pedal limit switch to small post on the solenoid.
2.4. Connect the 16-gauge blue wire from the key switch to the other small post on the solenoid.
3. Tighten the hex nuts on the large solenoid posts to 55 in-lb (6.2 N·m). Tighten the nuts on the small solenoid
posts to 22 in-lb (2.5 N·m).
4. Install the snap-on electrical box cover by pressing down firmly on all corners and install the screw, tightening to
18 in-lb (2 N·m).
5. Connect battery and spark plug wire(s). See Connecting the Battery – Gasoline Vehicles, Section 1, Page 1-3.
FUSE
FUSE REMOVAL
1. Disconnect battery. See Disconnecting the Battery – Gasoline Vehicles, Section 1, Page 1-3.
2. Remove electrical component box cover.
3. Remove the fuse from the fuse block.
FUSE INSTALLATION
WARNING
• If a fuse is blown, determine the cause of the failure and make necessary repairs before installing a
new fuse. Use the appropriately rated fuse; if a fuse with a higher amp rating is used, damage to the
vehicle electrical system may occur.
2. Install the snap-on electrical box cover by pressing down firmly on all corners and install the screw, tightening to
18 in-lb (2 N·m).
3. Connect battery. See Connecting the Battery – Gasoline Vehicles, Section 1, Page 1-3.
1. Disconnect battery and spark plug wire(s). See Disconnecting the Battery – Gasoline Vehicles, Section
1, Page 1-3.
2. Remove electrical component box cover (1) (Figure 12-18, Page 12-18).
3. Disconnect the green wire and the orange wire from the accelerator pedal limit switch (11).
4. Remove the two nuts (9) and washers (10) that secure the accelerator limit switch in place.
5. Remove the accelerator pedal limit switch (11).
1. Install the accelerator pedal limit switch (11) onto the two screws (16) and secure the switch using two washers
(10) and nuts (9). Torque to 5 in-lb (0.6 N·m) (Figure 12-18, Page 12-18). See following CAUTION.
CAUTION
• Do not overtighten the retaining nuts. If the nuts are overtightened, limit switches could be damaged.
2. Connect the green wire to common (COM) terminal and the orange wire to the normally closed (NC) terminal of
the accelerator pedal limit switch.
3. Press the accelerator pedal to make sure that the switch is being actuated when the pedal is released.
4. Install snap-on electrical component box cover (1). Be sure to press down firmly all corners. Install screw (20)
and tighten to 18 in-lb (2 N·m).
5. Connect battery and spark plug wire(s). See Connecting the Battery – Gasoline Vehicles, Section 1, Page 1-3.
9
20
10
12
11
8
15 13
A
16
21
A. To Voltage Regulator
517
Figure 12-18 Accelerator Starter and Kill Limit Switches
1. Disconnect battery and spark plug wire(s). See Disconnecting the Battery – Gasoline Vehicles, Section
1, Page 1-3.
2. Remove electrical component box cover (1) (Figure 12-18, Page 12-18).
3. Remove the two nuts (9) and washers (10) securing the accelerator pedal limit switch (11). Do not disconnect the
wires attached to switch (11) (Figure 12-18, Page 12-18).
4. Disconnect the two white/black wires and the black wire from the kill limit switch (12).
5. Remove the kill limit switch (12).
1. Install the kill limit switch (12) onto the two screws (16) (Figure 12-18, Page 12-18).
2. Connect the two white/black wires to the common (COM) terminal and the black wire to the normally open (NO)
terminal of the kill limit switch (12) and place the switch on the mounting screws located in the electrical component
box. Place the accelerator limit switch (11) on the mounting screws located in the electrical component box.
3. Secure the switches using two washers (10) and two nuts (9). Tighten to 5 in-lb (0.6 N·m). See following
CAUTION.
CAUTION
• Do not overtighten the retaining nuts. If the nuts are overtightened, limit switches could be damaged.
4. Press and release the accelerator pedal to make sure that both switches are being activated when the pedal
is released.
5. Install snap-on electrical component box cover (1). Be sure to press down firmly all corners. Install screw (20)
and tighten to 18 in-lb (2 N·m).
6. Connect battery and spark plug wire(s). See Connecting the Battery – Gasoline Vehicles, Section 1, Page 1-3.
1. Turn the key switch OFF and remove the key. Place the Forward/Reverse handle in the NEUTRAL position.
Chock the wheels.
2. Disconnect battery and spark plug wire(s). See Disconnecting the Battery – Gasoline Vehicles, Section
1, Page 1-3.
3. Disconnect the wires from the lockout cam limit switch (1) located on the back of the Forward/Reverse shifter
assembly (2) (Figure 12-19, Page 12-20).
4. Remove two nuts (3) and washers (4) from the lockout cam limit switch (1) and slide the lockout cam limit
switch off of the screws.
1. Install the limit switch (1) with washers (4) and nuts (3) and tighten to 5 in-lb (0.6 N·m) (Figure 12-19, Page
12-20). Place the Forward/Reverse handle in REVERSE to make sure that both switches actuate. See following
CAUTION.
CAUTION
• Do not overtighten the retaining nuts. If the nuts are overtightened, limit switches could be damaged.
2. Connect the black wire to common (COM) terminal, the green wire to the normally open (NO) terminal and
the white wire to the normally closed (NC) terminal of the neutral lockout limit switch. See Wiring Diagram –
Gasoline Vehicle on page 11-6.
3. Connect battery and spark plug wire(s). See Connecting the Battery – Gasoline Vehicles, Section 1, Page 1-3.
4. Place the Forward/Reverse handle in NEUTRAL and the neutral lockout cam in the OPERATE position.
5. Make sure everyone is clear of the vehicle. Turn the key switch ON. The engine should NOT crank when
pressing the accelerator. If the engine does crank, turn the key switch OFF and re-adjust the shift linkage. See
Forward/Reverse Shifter Cable Adjustment, Section 16, Page 16-21.
6. Test drive the vehicle in both forward and reverse for proper operation.
If the cam lobes have worn to the point where they will no longer actuate the lockout cam limit switch, the cam
must be replaced.
5
2
5
CO
M
NO
NC
CO
3
1
M
NO
NC
6 1 4 3
4 2
504 505
Figure 12-19 Neutral Lockout Cam and Reverse Buzzer Figure 12-20 Neutral Lockout Cam
Limit Switches
1. Turn the key switch OFF and remove the key. Place the Forward/Reverse handle in the NEUTRAL position.
Chock the wheels.
2. Disconnect battery and spark plug wire(s). See Disconnecting the Battery – Gasoline Vehicles, Section
1, Page 1-3.
3. Remove the external snap ring (1) (Figure 12-20, Page 12-20).
4. Remove the plastic washer (2) and the spring (3).
5. Remove the cam (4).
1. Disconnect battery and spark plug wire(s). See Disconnecting the Battery – Gasoline Vehicles, Section
1, Page 1-3.
2. Remove the center dash panel. See Key Switch Removal on page 12-13.
3. Disconnect the wires from the reverse warning buzzer (2). Do not allow wires to touch (Figure 12-21, Page 12-22).
4. Remove the mounting screws (3) securing the buzzer to the center dash.
1. Install the screws (3) through the buzzer bracket tabs and tighten to 3.5 in-lb (0.40 N·m) (Figure 12-21, Page
12-22).
2. Connect the black wire from the key switch to the negative (–) terminal on the buzzer.
3. Connect the red/white wire from the wire harness to the positive (+) terminal on the buzzer.
4. Reverse removal procedures to install the center dash in the vehicle. Be sure that the key switch terminals cannot
touch the frame and that the panel is properly seated and snapped in place.
5. Connect battery and spark plug wire(s). See Connecting the Battery – Gasoline Vehicles, Section 1, Page 1-3.
M- 1
2
M+
520
Figure 12-21 Reverse Warning Buzzer
1. Disconnect battery and spark plug wire(s). See Disconnecting the Battery – Gasoline Vehicles, Section
1, Page 1-3.
2. Disconnect the wires from the reverse buzzer limit switch (4) located on the back of the Forward/Reverse
assembly (Figure 12-19, Page 12-20).
3. Remove the nuts (2) and washers (6) from the neutral lockout limit switch (5) and slide the neutral lockout limit
switch off of the screws. Do not disconnect the wires.
4. Remove the spacers (9) from the reverse buzzer limit switch (4) and slide the reverse buzzer limit switch off
the screws.
1. Install the reverse buzzer limit switch (4), and then install two spacers (9) against the limit switch (Figure 12-19,
Page 12-20).
CAUTION
• Do not overtighten the retaining nuts. If the nuts are over tightened, limit switches could be damaged.
3. Place the Forward/Reverse handle in REVERSE and make sure that both switches actuate.
4. Connect the orange wire to the common (COM) terminal and the red/white wire to the normally open (NO)
terminal of the reverse buzzer limit switch (4)
5. Connect battery and spark plug wire(s). See Connecting the Battery – Gasoline Vehicles, Section 1, Page 1-3.
6. Turn the key switch to the ON position. Shift the Forward/Reverse handle to the REVERSE position. The
buzzer should sound.
1. Disconnect battery and spark plug wire(s). See Disconnecting the Battery – Gasoline Vehicles, Section
1, Page 1-3.
2. Remove the center dash panel. See Key Switch Removal on page 12-13.
3. Disconnect the wires from the low oil warning light (11) (Figure 12-22, Page 12-24). Do not allow wires to touch.
4. Press the retaining tabs and remove the low oil warning light from the center dash.
1. Push low oil warning light into hole in dash until plastic tabs engage dash (Figure 12-22, Page 12-24).
2. Connect yellow wire from the key switch and yellow wire from the oil level sensor to the low oil warning light.
3. Install the center dash in reverse order of removal. Be sure that key switch terminals cannot touch the frame and
that panel is properly seated and snapped in place.
4. Connect battery and spark plug wire(s). See Connecting the Battery – Gasoline Vehicles, Section 1, Page 1-3.
11
521 522
Figure 12-22 Low Oil Warning Light Figure 12-23 Fuel Gauge/Hour Meter Installation
GENERAL INFORMATION
With the key switch in the OFF position, the fuel gauge field is blank; however, the hour meter field is always ON.
When the key switch is turned to ON, the fuel gauge field activates. The fuel gauge initially registers full before
indicating the actual fuel level.
The hour meter displays the number of hours of use in increments of 0.1 (one tenth) hour, but does not record
additional time unless the key switch is in the ON position and the engine is on. When recording, the hourglass icon
on the left blinks.
1. Disconnect battery and spark plug wire(s). See Disconnecting the Battery – Gasoline Vehicles, Section
1, Page 1-3.
2. Remove the center dash panel. See Key Switch Removal on page 12-13.
3. Disconnect the wires from the fuel gauge/hour meter (1). Do not allow wires to touch.
4. Remove the mounting clip (2) that secures the gauge/meter (Figure 12-23, Page 12-24). Alternate pulling the
lower and upper tabs away from the gauge housing to remove clip. Pull gauge/meter from the instrument panel.
1. Install fuel gauge/hour meter (1) into the hole in the instrument panel until the flange seats against the dash.
2. Force the mounting clip (2) onto the back of the fuel gauge/hour meter until fully seated (Figure 12-23, Page
12-24).
3. Connect the wires to the fuel gauge/hour meter. See Wiring Diagram – Gasoline Vehicle on page 11-6.
4. Coat terminals with Battery Terminal Protector Spray (CC P/N 1014305).
5. Install the center dash in reverse order of removal. Be sure that key switch terminals cannot touch the frame and
that panel is properly seated and snapped in place.
6. Connect battery and spark plug wire(s). See Connecting the Battery – Gasoline Vehicles, Section 1, Page 1-3.
The fuel level sending unit is an integral part of the fuel tank and should never be removed. Thoroughly test the
fuel level sending unit before replacing the fuel tank.
RPM LIMITER
1. Turn the key switch OFF and remove the key. Place the Forward/Reverse handle in the NEUTRAL position.
Chock the wheels.
2. Disconnect battery and spark plug wire(s). See Disconnecting the Battery – Gasoline Vehicles, Section
1, Page 1-3.
3. Disconnect the white/black wire (1) from the black wire (2) at the bullet connector (3) located near the RPM
limiter (4) (Figure 12-24, Page 12-26).
4. Disconnect the black wire (5) at the other bullet connector (6) near the RPM limiter.
5. Remove the flange head bolts (7) from the RPM limiter band (8) and remove the RPM limiter and damper
(9) (Figure 12-24, Page 12-26).
9
4
8
7
00
5
00
00
10 6
1
11
2 3
508
Figure 12-24 RPM Limiter Assembly
1. Place the RPM limiter (4) on the damper (9) squarely so that RPM limiter fits tightly against the damper (Figure
12-24, Page 12-26).
2. Place the RPM limiter with damper on the front of the RPM limiter mounting bracket (10).
3. Place the band (8) over the RPM limiter and align the holes. Place the brown wire ring connector (11) onto the
flange head bolt (7) and secure the left side of the band. Use another flange head bolt to secure the other side of
the band. Make sure the band holds the RPM limiter securely in place. Tighten fasteners to 7 ft-lb (9.5 N·m).
4. Connect the black wire (2) to the white/black kill circuit wire (1) at the female bullet connector (3).
5. Connect the black wire (2) to the black wire (5) at the female bullet connector (6).
6. Connect battery and spark plug wire(s). See Connecting the Battery – Gasoline Vehicles, Section 1, Page 1-3.
IGNITION COIL
See Test Procedure 13 – Ignition Spark on page 11-19 and Test Procedure 15 – Ignition Coil on page 11-21.
2 3
4 3
Clu
bC
ar
2
4
6
12
13
10
10
11
509 510
Figure 12-27 Fan Housing Removal Figure 12-28 Ignition Coil Removal
1. Remove the rubber gasket (1) on the plug cap (2) by rolling back the gasket onto the spark plug wire (Figure
12-29, Page 12-28).
2. Remove the cap (2) from the wire by turning the cap counterclockwise three or four revolutions while gently
pulling it off the wire.
2
CAP
1 3
6
4
7
6
0.012 Inch
(0.304 mm)
511 512
Figure 12-29 Clean Grommet Figure 12-30 Mount Ignition Coil Using Feeler Gauge
NOTE: Moisten the spark plug wire with water to make gasket removal and installation easier.
4. Remove the grommet (4) from the old spark plug wire. Clean the grommet and place it on the new spark plug
wire (5).
5. Install the protector tube onto the new wire.
6. Slide the gasket onto the end of the new spark plug wire.
7. Install the cap on the new coil spark plug wire by rotating it clockwise three or four revolutions while applying
light pressure on the cap.
8. Install the gasket (1) on the cap (2).
9. Position the ignition coil (7) onto the cast mounting bosses on the engine crankcase and tighten the two mounting
bolts (6) to finger-tight at this time.
10. Rotate the flywheel (8) until the magnet is positioned directly under the ignition coil. Use a 0.012-inch (0.304
mm) bronze feeler gauge to set the air gap between the ignition coil and the flywheel magnet. Tighten the two
mounting bolts (6) to 30 in-lb (3.4 N·m) (Figure 12-30, Page 12-28).
11. Connect the 18-gauge black wire to the spade terminal on the coil.
12. Position the fan housing close to the engine crankcase and slide the plug wire grommet into the notch on the
housing.
13. When installing fan housing, make sure the top front corner of the housing is above the upper cylinder shroud.
The front edge of the fan housing should be behind the lower cylinder shroud. Align the slots in the housing
with the flanged bolts loosened earlier.
14. Install the four remaining flange bolts that secure the fan housing to the engine crankcase. Tighten all seven
mounting bolts to 90 in-lb (10.2 N·m) (Figure 12-27, Page 12-28).
15. Install the stiffener with four hex-head bolts and lock nuts. Tighten the hardware to 23 ft-lb (30.5 N·m).
16. Install the fan shroud with four pan-head bolts (5). Tighten to 50 in-lb (5.7 N·m) (Figure 12-27, Page 12-28).
17. Secure the wire harness to the stiffener with a wire tie. Place the wire tie through the lower hole at the back of
the stiffener (Figure 12-26, Page 12-27).
CAUTION
• Make sure wire harness is routed and secured away from the muffler.
HEADLIGHTS
1. Disconnect battery. See Disconnecting the Battery – Gasoline Vehicles, Section 1, Page 1-3.
2. From the front of vehicle, reach under cowl and turn the wire harness/halogen bulb assembly, (4 and 6), clockwise
one-quarter turn (Figure 12-31, Page 12-31).
3. Remove the wire harness/halogen bulb assembly (4 and 6) from the headlight lens (7).
4. Lift the retaining tabs on the connector (4) and remove halogen bulb assembly (6).
6 4
513
Figure 12-31 Headlight Assembly
1. Connect wire harness (4) to the halogen bulb assembly (6). The retaining tab should lock onto the halogen bulb
assembly (Figure 12-31, Page 12-31).
2. From the front of vehicle, reach under cowl and insert wire harness/halogen bulb assembly (4 and 6), into the
headlight lens (7).
3. Turn the wire harness/halogen bulb assembly (4 and 6) counterclockwise one-quarter turn.
4. Connect battery. See Connecting the Battery – Gasoline Vehicles, Section 1, Page 1-3.
VOLTAGE LIMITER
1. Turn the key switch OFF and remove the key. Place the Forward/Reverse handle in the NEUTRAL position.
Chock the wheels.
2. Disconnect battery and spark plug wire(s). See Disconnecting the Battery – Gasoline Vehicles, Section
1, Page 1-3.
3. Remove the instrument panel. See Key Switch Removal on page 12-13.
4. Disconnect wires from the voltage limiter (1). Do not allow wires to touch (Figure 12-32, Page 12-32).
NOTE: Identify terminal for solid black wire and terminal for black/white wire.
5. Remove the mounting hardware (2) from the voltage limiter and remove it from the vehicle.
1. Mount the voltage limiter to the frame using the mounting hardware and tighten to 25 in-lb (2.8 N·m) (Figure
12-32, Page 12-32).
2. Connect the black/white wire from harness to the negative (–) terminal on the limiter.
3. Connect the solid black wire from the ground terminal block to the positive (+) terminal on the limiter.
4. Install the dash panel in reverse order of removal. See Key Switch Removal on page 12-13.
5. Connect battery and spark plug wire(s). See Connecting the Battery – Gasoline Vehicles, Section 1, Page 1-3.
5
4
1
2 1
2
3
514 515
Figure 12-32 Voltage Limiter Figure 12-33 Light Switch
HEADLIGHT SWITCH
1. Disconnect battery and spark plug wire(s). See Disconnecting the Battery – Gasoline Vehicles, Section
1, Page 1-3.
2. Loosen the set screw (5) locking the light switch knob (1) to the shaft (Figure 12-33, Page 12-32).
3. Remove the center dash panel. See Key Switch Removal on page 12-13.
4. Disconnect the wires from the light switch.
5. Remove the outer nut (2) from the switch (Figure 12-33, Page 12-32).
1. Connect the wires to the light switch. See Wiring Diagram – Gasoline Vehicle on page 11-6.
2. Thread the check nut (4) onto the switch until an equal number of threads show on both sides. Insert the
switch through the center dash and install the nut on the outside of the dash. Tighten the nut to 14 in-lb (1.6
N·m) (Figure 12-33, Page 12-32).
3. Push the light switch shaft in. Screw the knob onto the end of the shaft until the knob touches the outer nut.
Then turn the knob in the opposite direction until the headlight beams on the knob are horizontal to the ground.
Tighten the set screw (5) to lock the knob to the shaft.
4. Install the center dash in reverse order of removal. Be sure that key switch terminals cannot touch the frame and
that panel is properly seated and snapped in place.
5. Connect battery and spark plug wire(s). See Connecting the Battery – Gasoline Vehicles, Section 1, Page 1-3.
BATTERY
DANGER
• Due to the danger of an exploding battery, wear a full face shield and rubber gloves when working
on or near batteries.
• Battery – Explosive gases! Do not smoke. Keep sparks and flames away from the vehicle and service
area. Ventilate when charging or operating vehicle in an enclosed area. Wear a full face shield and
rubber gloves when working on or near batteries.
• Tools, wires, and metal objects can cause sparks when shorted across a battery.
• Battery – Poison! Contains acid! Causes severe burns. Avoid contact with skin, eyes, or clothing.
Antidotes:
WARNING
• Do not jump start a dead battery using another battery and jumper cables.
GENERAL INFORMATION
PREVENTIVE MAINTENANCE
1. To keep the battery in good operating condition, remove any corrosion immediately. Post connections should
be clean and tight. Any frayed or worn wires should be replaced. Properly connect and tighten cables.
See Connecting the Battery – Gasoline Vehicles, Section 1, Page 1-3. See preceding WARNINGS and
following CAUTION.
CAUTION
• If battery wire terminals are damaged or corroded, replace or clean them as necessary. Failure to do
so may cause them to overheat during operation and could result in a fire, property damage, or
personal injury.
2. The battery should be kept clean and dry to prevent self-discharge. Any dirt, grime or acid spillage should be
removed. Wash the battery with a bristle brush using water and bicarbonate of soda (1 cup (237 mL) baking
soda per 1 gallon (3.8 L) of water). Rinse with water. Do not allow solution to enter battery through the vent cap
holes. See Self-Discharge on page 12-34.
3. Maintain proper water level. See Water Level on page 12-35.
4. Check battery periodically to see that it is in a full state of charge. See Charging the Battery on page 12-36.
5. Keep battery hold-down clamp tight. See Vibration Damage on page 12-35.
SELF-DISCHARGE
Dirt and battery acid can provide a path for a small current draw that slowly discharges the battery. To prevent
self-discharge, the battery should always be kept clean.
Hot weather also has an effect on a battery’s self-discharge rate. The higher the temperature, the quicker a battery will
discharge. In hotter climates, therefore, the battery should be checked more often. When storing the battery, keep in
a cool place. See Battery Storage on page 12-37.
The water level should be checked semi-annually to be sure water is at its proper level (Figure 12-34, Page 12-35).
Never allow the water level to fall below the tops of the plates because this will cause the exposed part of the plate to
become permanently inactive. Check the water level more frequently in hot weather or when the battery becomes old.
2
1
3
VIBRATION DAMAGE
The battery hold-down clamp should always be tight enough to keep the battery from bouncing. Battery life may be
severely shortened if the clamp is too loose. Excessive vibration shortens the life of the battery. It may also cause acid
to leak out of the vent caps and corrosion to build up on surrounding metal parts. The acid that is lost reduces the
capacity of the battery and cannot be replaced.
MINERAL CONTENT
For the longest battery life, distilled water should be used in the battery. However, if tap water is going to be used,
contact your local water department to be sure mineral contents are below the levels listed in the following table. See
following NOTE.
NOTE: Contact your local water department for mineral content analysis.
IMPURITY ALLOWABLE CONTENT (PARTS PER MILLION)
Suspended matter Trace
Iron 5.0
Ammonia 8.0
Nitrates 10.0
Nitrites 5.0
Chloride 5.0
BATTERY REMOVAL
See General Warnings on page 1-1. Also see DANGER at beginning of Battery topic.
1. Turn the key switch OFF and remove the key. Place the Forward/Reverse handle in the NEUTRAL position.
Chock the wheels.
2. Disconnect battery and spark plug wire(s). See Disconnecting the Battery – Gasoline Vehicles, Section
1, Page 1-3.
3. Remove the battery hold-down clamp from the battery.
4. Lift the battery from the vehicle. See following WARNING.
WARNING
• Keep the battery in an upright position to prevent electrolyte leakage. Tipping the battery beyond a
45° angle in any direction can allow a small amount of electrolyte to leak out of the vent hole. Do not
exceed this 45° angle when lifting, carrying or installing battery. The battery acid could cause severe
personal injury when accidentally coming in contact with the skin or eyes, and could damage clothing.
See General Warnings on page 1-1. Also see DANGER at beginning of Battery topic.
WARNING
• If the battery case feels hot (approximately 125 °F (52 °C) or more), emits gases, or fluid boils from
vents, stop charging immediately. Failure to stop charging battery when any of these conditions are
present could result in an explosion, personal injury and/or damage to the battery.
• Do not disconnect the charger DC leads from the battery when the charger is on. The resulting arcing
between the DC leads and battery post could cause an explosion.
• If the charger must be stopped, disconnect the AC supply cord from the wall outlet before
disconnecting the DC leads from the battery. Allow the battery to cool to room temperature and
resume charging battery at a lower amp rate.
BATTERY INSTALLATION
See General Warnings on page 1-1. Also see DANGER at beginning of Battery topic.
1. Place the battery into the vehicle with the battery posts facing the engine.
2. Secure the battery to the vehicle with the clamp and install bolt, washer and locknut and tighten to 144 in-lb (16.3
N·m). A loose battery clamp may allow the battery to become damaged from vibration or jarring.
BATTERY STORAGE
See General Warnings on page 1-1. Also see DANGER at beginning of Battery topic.
1. Keep the battery clean and free of corrosion. See Preventive Maintenance on page 12-34.
2. The battery cables should be disconnected from the battery so the battery can be connected to the charger. The
battery can be left in the vehicle. Disconnect the negative (–) cable first.See Disconnecting the Battery –
Gasoline Vehicles, Section 1, Page 1-3.
3. Fully charge the battery prior to storage.
4. Store in a cool, dry area. The colder the area in which the battery is stored, the less the battery will self-discharge.
A battery stored at 0 °F (-17.8 °C) will discharge very little over a four-month period. A battery stored at 80 °F
(27 °C) will have to be recharged every few weeks.
5. Check the state of charge periodically. A battery that is discharged and left in a cold environment can freeze and
crack. If the specific gravity drops below 1.220, the battery should be recharged. See following WARNING.
WARNING
• If the battery is frozen or the container is bulged, discard battery. A frozen battery can explode.
6. The frequency of recharging required depends on the temperature of the storage area, but it is recommended
that the battery be monitored for state of charge every month. Also, if the storage area is unheated in a cold
climate and recharging is required, it is recommended that the area be heated to at least 60 °F (16 °C) prior
to charging. The battery will not charge effectively in cold temperatures for the same reasons that it does not
discharge as rapidly in cold temperatures.
See General Warnings on page 1-1. Also see DANGER at beginning of Battery topic.
The vehicle is equipped with a starter/generator. The generator is not designed to charge a dead battery. If the vehicle
battery has become discharged, it must be charged using a properly rated automotive type charger. See following
WARNING.
WARNING
• Do not jump-start a dead battery using another battery and jumper cables.
GROUND CABLES
DANGER
• See General Warnings on page 1-1.
WARNING
• See General Warnings on page 1-1.
GENERAL INFORMATION
This gasoline vehicle is powered by a 4-cycle, overhead valve, single cylinder, air-cooled engine. The 4-cycle engine
has an oil reservoir (crankcase) similar to automobiles, trucks, aircraft, heavy equipment, machinery and other
applications designed for reliable heavy-duty service. The engine has two major component assemblies: the cylinder
assembly and the crankcase assembly. See following NOTE.
NOTE: Engine rotation is clockwise as viewed from the clutch side of the engine.
This section contains information for removing and replacing the engine. For complete instruction on engine
disassembly, repair, rebuilding, and reassembly, see the Engines and Drivetrain Components: Repair and Rebuild
manual, CC P/N 102396501.
BEFORE SERVICING
Carefully read the applicable information and instructions before beginning engine service. Diagrams, DANGER,
WARNING, CAUTION and NOTE statements and detailed descriptions have been included wherever necessary.
Anyone attempting engine service should have knowledge and experience in small engine service and repair.
ENGINE ROTATION
When turning the crankshaft by hand, always turn it clockwise as viewed from the clutch side of the engine. This
will ensure proper adjustments.
SPARK PLUG
Spark plugs are selected to suit specific engine design and vehicle operating conditions. The spark plug (CC P/N
AM10724) is designed to give maximum life and efficient combustion of fuel. The spark gap should be set to
0.027-0.031 inches (0.69-0.79 mm).
CAUTION
• Before removal and disassembly, clean the engine.
Disconnect battery and spark plug wire(s). See Disconnecting the Battery – Gasoline Vehicles, Section 1, Page 1-3.
Remove all dirt from plug base in the cylinder head before removing plug. Use a 13/16-inch deep well socket wrench
or 13/16-inch spark plug wrench to loosen the plug.
Spark Plug Cleaning, Inspection and Repair
Examine the plug (Figure 13-1, Page 13-2). The deposits on the plug base and electrode are an indication of the
correct heat range and efficiency as well as a guide to the general condition of the engine, fuel and air mixture and
ignition system. If all of the above conditions are proper, the spark plug should be a light brown color. There should be
no bridging between the electrode and base. The electrode should not be eroded. Black color, excessive carbon,
and/or a wet plug indicates that the fuel is too rich. White, burned or melted electrodes indicate the fuel is too lean or
pre-igniting. Oily deposits on the plug electrode are an indication of worn rings, valve guides, cylinder wall, etc. Also
examine the spark plug wire. Remove rubber boot and inspect internal spring for damage. Inspect spark plug wire for
damage and be sure spring coil is securely attached to spark plug. See following WARNING.
WARNING
• Remove spark plug wire to avoid accidental start up of the engine when servicing vehicle. To avoid
ignition of fuel and serious personal injury or death, never try to start the engine with plug removed
from engine.
524
Figure 13-1 Spark Plug
Testing the Spark Plug
Check the sparking ability of a cleaned and properly gapped plug on a sparking comparator if possible. Spark should
be blue and strong and able to jump a 5/16-inch (8 mm) gap.
Setting the Spark Gap
1. Pass a contact point file between the electrodes to produce flat, parallel surfaces to facilitate accurate gauging.
2. Use a wire type gauge. Bend the outside or ground electrode so only a slight drag on the gauge is felt when
passing it between the electrode. Never make an adjustment by bending the center electrode. Set gap (A) to
0.027-0.031 inches (0.69-0.79 mm) (Figure 13-1, Page 13-2).
NOTE: Before installing the plug, check the condition of the threads in the cylinder head. Soften deposits in cylinder
head threads with penetrating oil and clean the threads with a tap if necessary.
Use a high temperature, anti-seize lubricant on the threads of the spark plug to reduce friction when installing
a new plug, and reduce “gauling” and thread seizing for future replacements.
Install the spark plug by threading it in until finger tight, then tighten the spark plug to 20 ft-lb (27 N·m).
CYLINDER HEAD
GENERAL INFORMATION
Test cylinder compression using a standard compression tester. Low compression would normally indicate a problem
in the cylinder assembly such as defective rings, gaskets, etc. At a cranking speed of 550-600 RPM, the compression
should be 156-185 psi. See the Engines and Drivetrain Components: Repair and Rebuild manual, CC P/N
102396501, for inspection and repair.
Oil laden air in the crankcase passes through the reed valve and expands into the rocker chamber. In the rocker
chamber most oil separates from the air and drains back to the crankcase. The air passes through a tube and
vents to the intake manifold. See the Engines and Drivetrain Components: Repair and Rebuild manual, CC
P/N 102396501, for inspection and repair.
CRANKCASE
ENGINE REMOVAL
To perform repairs on crankcase components, remove engine from the vehicle. See following CAUTION.
CAUTION
• Before removal and disassembly, clean the engine.
1. Remove the powertrain. See Unitized Transaxle Removal on page 16-7. See following NOTE.
NOTE: The crankshaft has left-hand threads at the clutch mounting hole.
1. Remove yellow jumper wire (11) from cord connector (12) (Figure 13-2, Page 13-4).
2. Remove nuts and clamps at two-ended bolts (1 and 2) (Figure 13-3, Page 13-4).
3. Remove eight bolts (3) and remove the crankcase cover (4). See following NOTE.
NOTE: If the crankcase cover sticks, tap lightly with a plastic mallet on alternate sides near the dowel pins (5) (Figure
13-3, Page 13-4).
4. Remove the crankcase cover gasket completely. It may stick to the flanged surface of the crankcase.
4
2
11
5 5
12
526 527
Figure 13-2 Oil Level Sensor Wire Figure 13-3 Crankcase Cover
5 Clu
bC
ar
3
Clu
bC
ar
525
Figure 13-4 Engine Mounting Plate
2. Position the sensor and bracket on inside of crankcase and install two mounting screws.
3. Connect sensor wire (2) to cord connector (1) (Figure 13-5, Page 13-6).
4. Install screw (3) through wire clamp and into crankcase cover. Tighten to 30 in-lb (3.4 N·m).
2
3
1 7
4
6
8
9
528
Figure 13-5 Oil Level Sensor
CAUTION
• Before assembly, make sure parts are clean.
• Install and tighten crankcase cover bolts as instructed. Failure to do so could cause the cover to
become warped.
1. Clean the gasket surfaces on the crankcase cover to fit a new gasket during installation and inspect the oil seal
for wear and damage.
2. Install crankcase cover. Using HANDS ONLY, seat cover completely against the crankcase. If the cover will not
seat, the camshaft is not installed correctly.
3. Install and finger tighten evenly the eight cover mounting bolts (Figure 13-6, Page 13-7).
4. Tighten the cover mounting bolts in two steps. First, in the sequence shown, tighten all eight bolts to approximately
130 in-lb (14 N·m). Then, repeating the sequence, tighten them to 250 in-lb (28.2 N·m) (Figure 13-6, Page 13-7).
5. Connect the yellow jumper wire (11) to the cord connector (12) (Figure 13-2, Page 13-4).
1 7
6 4
530
Figure 13-6 Crankcase Cover Installation
1. Loosen three screws (2) and remove the remaining four screws (1) attaching the flywheel housing as shown,
then remove the housing (Figure 13-7, Page 13-7).
2. Disconnect the ignition coil (11) from its primary lead wire at the connector (12). Remove the two bolts (10) and
take out the ignition coil (Figure 13-8, Page 13-7).
12
2
13
10
1 11
1
531 510
Figure 13-7 Flywheel Housing Figure 13-8 Ignition Coil
3. Hold the flywheel (4), not the fan (7), with a strap wrench (5) and, using a 25 mm socket, remove the flywheel nut
(and flat washer) by turning it counterclockwise (Figure 13-9, Page 13-8). See following CAUTION.
CAUTION
• The flywheel nut has right-hand threads. Turn it clockwise to tighten, or counterclockwise to loosen.
• Do not damage the fan blades with the strap wrench. Do not place screwdriver or pry bar in the
fan blades.
48 1
5
MF 3
7 0.012 Inch
(0.304 mm)
532 512
Figure 13-9 Flywheel Nut Figure 13-10 Adjust Ignition Coil Air Gap
FLYWHEEL INSTALLATION
1. Insert the flywheel key into the keyway in the crankshaft. Then align the keyway in the flywheel to the key and
push the flywheel and fan assembly onto the crankshaft until it seats. Install flat washer and nut finger tight.
2. Use a strap wrench (3) to keep the flywheel and fan assembly (1) from turning while tightening the flywheel nut to
63 ft-lb (85.4 N·m) (Figure 13-11, Page 13-9). See following CAUTION.
CAUTION
• The flywheel nut has right-hand threads. Turn it clockwise to tighten, or counterclockwise to loosen.
• Be careful not to damage the fan blades. Use a strap wrench to hold flywheel. Do not place screwdriver
or pry bar between fan blades.
3. Install the fan housing and tighten the screws to 90 in-lbs (10 N·m).
48 1
MF 3
533
Figure 13-11 Fan and Flywheel Installation
ENGINE INSTALLATION
1. Place engine onto engine mounting plate and tighten the mounting hardware (1, 2 and 5) to 13 ft-lb (17.7 N·m).
Tighten nuts (6) to 17 ft-lb (23.1 N·m) (Figure 13-4, Page 13-5).
2. Install drive clutch. See Drive Clutch Installation on page 17-11.
3. Install drive belt. See Drive Belt Installation on page 17-3.
4. Install muffler. See Muffler Installation, Section 15, Page 15-1.
5. Install starter/generator and belt. See Belt Tension Adjustment on page 12-12.
6. Install the powertrain. See Unitized Transaxle Installation on page 16-15.
7. Install oil drain plug in the crankcase and tighten to 20 ft-lb (27.1 N·m). Apply a light film of oil on the seal of
a new oil filter and install the filter on the crankcase. Fill the crankcase to the proper level with the correct
type of oil. This engine should be regarded as a new engine for next scheduled oil change. See Periodic
Maintenance, Section 10, Page 10-1.
8. Check all hardware for proper torque/tightness.
9. Check engine oil level (Figure 13-12, Page 13-10).
9.1. With vehicle on level surface, remove dip stick and clean with cloth (Figure 13-12, Page 13-10).
9.2. Reinsert dip stick until fully seated.
9.3. Oil must be in the SAFE LEVEL range.
CAUTION
• Do not overfill with oil.
23
Figure 13-12 Check Engine Oil Level
10. Install a new or cleaned spark plug gapped to 0.027-0.031 inch (0.69-0.79 mm).
11. Connect battery and spark plug wire(s). See Connecting the Battery – Gasoline Vehicles, Section 1, Page 1-3.
12. Adjust the engine RPM setting. See Engine RPM Adjustment on page 14-11.
13. Test-drive vehicle to ensure all systems are functional and correctly adjusted.
TORQUE SPECIFICATIONS
ITEM LIMITS
Spark plug gap (standard) 0.027 to 0.031 in. (0.69 to 0.79 mm)
DANGER
• See General Warnings on page 1-1.
WARNING
• See General Warnings on page 1-1.
GENERAL INFORMATION
The engine is equipped with a float bowl type carburetor with fixed jets that require no adjustment. The carburetor
atomizes the fuel, mixes it with air, and feeds the combustible mixture into the cylinder.
CARBURETOR
Before suspecting the carburetor as the cause of poor engine performance, make sure the fuel and ignition systems
are in proper operating condition. Check the following items:
• Spark plug and gap condition. See Spark Plug on page 13-1.
• Air filter element. See Air Filter on page 14-15.
• Fuel filters. See Fuel Filters on page 14-16.
• Choke and air intake system (for restriction of air flow). See Choke and Air Intake System on page 14-12.
• Fuel pump.
• Fuel lines. See Fuel Lines on page 14-24.
• Exhaust system (for restrictions). See Exhaust System: Gasoline Vehicles, Section 15, Page 15-1.
If the carburetor floods or leaks fuel at the float bowl gasket or carburetor vent tube, the fuel inlet valve could be worn
or dirty. Another cause of this condition may be a damaged float that has filled with fuel and sinks.
For elevations above 3000 feet, main jets other than standard operate more effectively. The following chart lists the
elevation ratings for various jet sizes. No adjustment is required for the pilot jet. If the vehicle idles roughly, turn
the pilot air screw out until the vehicle idles smoothly.
1
2
3
000
000 000
10
000
11
21 000
30
15
21
000
12
13
14
26
000
000
16
17
18
19 22
23
534
Figure 14-1 Carburetor Mounting
1. Disconnect battery and spark plug wire(s). See Disconnecting the Battery – Gasoline Vehicles, Section
1, Page 1-3.
2. Remove the carburetor.
2.1. Turn fuel shut-off valve on fuel tank to the closed (OFF) position (Figure 14-18, Page 14-25).
2.2. Loosen the intake air hose clamp (22) and disconnect the intake air hose (23) at the carburetor end only
(Figure 14-1, Page 14-2).
2.3. Remove the governor guard (5).
2.4. Disconnect the governor cable (30) from the carburetor.
2.5. Disconnect the carburetor vent line (14).
2.6. Disconnect the fuel supply line (26) at the carburetor end only. Temporarily plug the end of the fuel line to
prevent fuel leakage.
2.7. Remove the carburetor retaining nuts (19), intake pipe (17), and carburetor (12). See following NOTE.
NOTE: Note the orientation of the gasket (16), between the carburetor intake pipe (17) and the carburetor body (12)
so that it can be replaced in the same orientation (Figure 14-1, Page 14-2).
When removing the carburetor body, the throttle return spring (11) must be disconnected. Note its proper
orientation so that it can be replaced in the same orientation.
3. Position the carburetor with the drain screw (11) over a catch basin (Figure 14-4, Page 14-4).
4. Turn the carburetor bowl drain screw counterclockwise two or three turns and drain all the fuel from the bowl
into the catch basin (Figure 14-2, Page 14-4). Tighten the drain screw to 10 in-lb (1.1 N·m). Return fuel to the
fuel tank or dispose of properly.
5. Mark the body of the carburetor and the carburetor fuel bowl with an indelible ink marker so that, after removal,
the bowl can be installed again in the same position (Figure 14-3, Page 14-4).
535 536
Figure 14-2 Drain Bowl Figure 14-3 Mark Carburetor and Bowl for Alignment
6. Remove the carburetor fuel bowl retaining screw and washer (12), then remove the fuel bowl (10) and clean it
with a nonflammable solvent (Figure 14-4, Page 14-4). See following NOTE.
NOTE: Make sure the fuel bowl gasket (9) remains properly seated in the carburetor body when the fuel bowl
is removed (Figure 14-4, Page 14-4).
During normal operation, the fuel bowl retains the float pivot pin (6). Make sure that the float pivot pin does not
fall out of the carburetor body after the fuel bowl is removed.
7. Remove the main jet (8) from the carburetor body and discard it (Figure 14-4, Page 14-4). See following NOTE.
NOTE: Make sure the fuel nozzle (7) does not fall out of the carburetor body after removal of the main jet. This is best
accomplished by positioning the carburetor upside down during main jet removal (Figure 14-4, Page 14-4).
3 2
1
4
9
7
8 11
10 12
537
Figure 14-4 Carburetor Components
CAUTION
• Do not remove the valve/spring assembly from the float assembly. Doing so will damage the spring.
NOTE: Inspect the main jet nozzle (7), and pilot jet (4) to ensure they are free from contamination (Figure 14-4,
Page 14-4). Replace any part that is clogged with contamination. Replace the float if it is damaged, or
if the float valve is damaged or worn. Examine the float valve/spring assembly to make sure the spring is
installed correctly (Figure 14-5, Page 14-5).
10. Install the fuel bowl. Make sure that it is positioned properly by aligning the marks applied in step 4. See
following CAUTION.
CAUTION
• Make sure the fuel bowl is properly seated against the carburetor fuel bowl gasket, and the gasket
is not pinched.
5
2
1. If spring looks like this... 2. then adjust spring to look like this by... 3. holding float firmly and rotating valve counterclockwise to seat
spring in seat of float bowl 4. Check for coil located in groove above both ears. 5. Check for spring seated in recess of float.
538
Figure 14-5 Inspect Float Valve/Spring Assembly – Adjust If Required
11. Install the fuel bowl retaining screw and tighten it to 61 in-lb (6.9 N·m).
12. Write the size of the main jet on the fuel bowl with an indelible ink marker. This should be written in a location that
will be visible when the carburetor is installed on the engine.
13. Install the carburetor on the engine (Figure 14-1, Page 14-2).
13.1.Attach the throttle return spring (11) to the carburetor and then to the throttle bracket (4) just before
positioning the carburetor and securing it to the engine (Figure 14-1, Page 14-2).
13.2.Install the intake pipe gasket (16) (check for proper orientation) and intake pipe (17).
13.3.Install the carburetor retaining nuts (19) and tighten them to 50 in-lb (5.7 N·m).
14. Connect fuel supply line (26) and tighten screw clamp to 9 in-lb (1.0 N·m) (Figure 14-1, Page 14-2).
NOTE: Make sure the intake hose is not twisted during installation.
19. Turn fuel shut-off valve on top of fuel tank to the ON position (Figure 14-18, Page 14-25).
20. Connect battery and spark plug wire(s). See Connecting the Battery – Gasoline Vehicles, Section 1, Page 1-3.
21. Test drive the vehicle.
DANGER
• To ensure the vehicle does not run over you while you disconnect or adjust the accelerator push
rod, do the following:
– Turn key switch OFF and remove key, place Forward/Reverse handle in the NEUTRAL position,
and chock the wheels prior to servicing the vehicle.
– Disconnect battery cables, negative (–) cable first.
– Disconnect the spark plug wire from the spark plug.
– See Disconnecting the Battery – Gasoline Vehicles, Section 1, Page 1-3.
GENERAL INFORMATION
For proper vehicle operation, it is important the accelerator pedal, governor linkage, and throttle adjustments are done
correctly and in the proper sequence. See following CAUTION.
CAUTION
• Improper adjustment can result in poor vehicle performance and/or damage to the engine components.
ACCELERATOR ROD
Accelerator Rod Removal
1. Raise the front of the vehicle. Place chocks at the rear wheels and lift the front of the vehicle with a chain hoist or
floor jack. Place jack stands under the round frame cross tube to support the vehicle. See preceding DANGER.
See also WARNING “Lift only one end of the vehicle...” in General Warnings on page 1-1.
2. Remove the accelerator rod by disconnecting the ball joint (1) from the ball stud (2) on the accelerator pedal
(Figure 14-6, Page 14-7) and from the bell crank at the electrical box (Figure 14-8, Page 14-8).
3
1
539
Figure 14-6 Accelerator Rod
Accelerator Rod Installation and Adjustment
1. Before installing the accelerator rod, adjust accelerator pedal position. See Pedal Group Adjustment –
Gasoline Vehicles on page 5-10.
2. Install the ball joint on the ball stud at the accelerator pedal (Figure 14-6, Page 14-7).
3. Access the engine compartment.
4. Remove the electrical box screw and cover (Figure 14-7, Page 14-8).
5. Adjust length of accelerator rod. With the ball joint jam nuts (3) loose (Figure 14-6, Page 14-7), adjust the
length of the rod to obtain an accelerator cable cam position of 14° as shown (Figure 14-7, Page 14-8). See
following CAUTION.
CAUTION
• Be sure that approximately an equal number of threads are exposed at each end of the accelerator rod.
6. Install the accelerator rod on the bell crank ball joint on the electrical component box (Figure 14-8, Page 14-8).
See following CAUTION.
CAUTION
• Inspect the limit switch inside the electrical box. If the limit switch lever is bent, replace the switch.
14°
1344 1345
Figure 14-7 Accelerator Cable Cam Position – 14° (Top Figure 14-8 Accelerator Rod – Pull Spring Release to
View) Attach (Bottom View)
7. Before tightening the jam nuts, set the park brake to the first latch and pawl position and check for proper
activation of switches.
8. While pressing the accelerator pedal, the following events should occur in exactly the order shown:
EVENT APPROXIMATE PEDAL TRAVEL
Park brake release 0°-4°
9. While holding the accelerator ball joint with pliers, tighten the jam nuts against the ball joints, accelerator ball joint
first, at each end of the accelerator rod.
10. Check rod adjustment for proper switch activation.
11. After the pedal group and accelerator rod are properly adjusted, adjust the engine RPM setting. See Engine
RPM Adjustment, Section 14, Page 14-11.
12. Install the electrical box cover and tighten retaining screw to 18 in-lb (2.0 N·m).
13. Connect battery and spark plug wire(s). See Connecting the Battery – Gasoline Vehicles, Section 1, Page 1-3.
GOVERNOR CABLE
Governor Cable Removal
1. Turn the key switch to the OFF position and remove the key, place the Forward/Reverse handle in the NEUTRAL
position, and chock the wheels.
2. Access the engine compartment.
3. Disconnect battery and spark plug wire(s). See Disconnecting the Battery – Gasoline Vehicles, Section
1, Page 1-3.
4. Remove the governor guard (if equipped).
5. Disconnect the governor cable (2) at the carburetor throttle.
6. Disconnect the governor cable (2) from the governor lever arm (15) (Figure 14-9, Page 14-9).
7. Remove the governor cable (2) from the governor cable engine bracket (11), and governor cable support bracket
(10) (Figure 14-9, Page 14-9). Remove the cable (2) from the vehicle.
16
4 3
6
2
1
2 15
10
17
6
12
13
11
14
542
Figure 14-9 Governor and Accelerator Cables
ACCELERATOR CABLE
Accelerator Cable Removal
1. Access the engine compartment.
2. Disconnect battery and spark plug wire(s). See Disconnecting the Battery – Gasoline Vehicles, Section
1, Page 1-3.
3. Remove the electrical box screw and cover and loosen the cable housing retaining nuts (Figure 14-7, Page 14-8).
4. Disconnect cable (1) from cam (17) in the electrical box (Figure 14-9, Page 14-9).
5. Disconnect the spring (16) from the engine governor arm.
6. Remove the accelerator cable from the accelerator cable bracket (5). Remove the cable assembly from the
vehicle.
Accelerator Cable Installation
1. Connect the cable to the cam (17) in the electrical box (Figure 14-9, Page 14-9).
2. Insert the cable housing into the mounting slot in the wall of the electrical box, with approximately the same
number of threads visible between the jam nuts as are visible from the nut inside the box to the end of the cable
housing (Figure 14-7, Page 14-8). Tighten the nuts finger-tight.
3. Connect the spring (16) to the engine governor arm (Figure 14-9, Page 14-9).
4. Install cable in accelerator cable bracket (5) (Figure 14-9, Page 14-9).
5. Push the cable dust shield onto the spring end of the cable conduit.
6. Before tightening the cable housing retaining nuts, make sure the engine RPM adjustment is correct. See
Engine RPM Adjustment, Section 14, Page 14-11.
7. Install the electrical box cover, and tighten the retaining screw to 18 in-lb (2.0 N·m).
8. Connect battery and spark plug wire(s). See Connecting the Battery – Gasoline Vehicles, Section 1, Page 1-3.
When the accelerator pedal is released, the engine will stop. Therefore, it is not possible to measure or set idling
speed under normal vehicle operating conditions. Set throttle valve as follows:
1. Loosen the carburetor idle screw so that it is not touching the throttle lever (Figure 14-10, Page 14-11).
2. Slowly tighten the idle screw until it lightly touches the throttle lever, then tighten it an additional 3/4 turn.
543
Figure 14-10 Idle Screw
DANGER
• Do not operate gasoline vehicle in an enclosed area without proper ventilation. The engine produces
carbon monoxide, which is an odorless, deadly poison.
1. If the governor is adjusted, proceed to step 2; otherwise, adjust the governor. See Governor Cable Installation
and Adjustment on page 14-9.
2. Connect battery and spark plug wire(s). See Connecting the Battery – Gasoline Vehicles, Section 1, Page 1-3.
3. Place the Forward/Reverse handle in the NEUTRAL position, chock the wheels, and the neutral lockout cam in
the MAINTENANCE position.
4. Connect a tachometer (CC P/N 1016112) to the spark plug lead.
5. With the tachometer connected, and the engine at normal operating temperature, check high speed RPM. With
the accelerator pedal pressed to the floor, the tachometer should read 2700 ±30 RPM.
6. To reduce RPM, loosen the accelerator cable retaining nut on the outside of the electrical box wall and tighten
the retaining nut on the inside of the wall until the specified RPM is reached (Figure 14-7, Page 14-8). To
increase RPM, loosen the cable retaining nut inside the electrical box and tighten the nut outside the box until
the specified RPM is reached.
7. Be sure both retaining nuts are locked against the electrical box and then check the RPM again. If the RPM
needs to be adjusted, repeat step 6.
8. If more adjustment is required than the cable housing will allow, make sure the spring on the other end of the
accelerator cable is properly positioned. Excessive belt and torque converter wear can also prevent proper RPM
adjustment. Check them for excessive wear. See Section 17 – Torque Converter: Gasoline Vehicle.
1. Remove the mounting screws (22) from the back side of the choke. Remove the choke assembly from the
vehicle body (Figure 14-12, Page 14-14).
1. Position the choke assembly (2) on the vehicle body. Install the mounting screws (22) from inside the vehicle
body and tighten to 18 in-lb (2.0 N·m) (Figure 14-12, Page 14-14).
2. Check for proper operation. If the choke button does not adequately engage the choke lever (20), loosen the
screw (30) and adjust the choke bracket (23) on the choke lever (20). Move the bracket toward the choke button
to increase choke engagement and away from the choke button to reduce choke engagement.
1. Turn the key switch to the OFF position and remove the key, place the Forward/Reverse handle in the NEUTRAL
position, and chock the wheels.
2. Disconnect battery and spark plug wire(s). See Disconnecting the Battery – Gasoline Vehicles, Section
1, Page 1-3.
3. Remove the air intake box from the vehicle by removing intake hose (21) and three screws (1) and washers (29)
that mount the intake box to the vehicle (Figure 14-12, Page 14-14).
1. Check to be sure the intake seal (11) is seated correctly (Figure 14-12, Page 14-14). The seal fits tightly onto the
bottom side of the air box. If seal is not in place, moisture will enter the air intake system.
2. Place the air box assembly into vehicle and install three flat washers (29) and screws (1) from underside of air
box mounting plate into air box (Figure 14-12, Page 14-14). Tighten to 33 in-lb (3.7 N·m).
3. Place hose onto air box and secure with wire clamp. If equipped with screw clamp, tighten to 17 in-lb (1.9 N·m).
4. Test choke for proper operation.
5. Connect battery and spark plug wire(s). See Connecting the Battery – Gasoline Vehicles, Section 1, Page 1-3.
1. Remove the front body. See Front Body Removal, Section 4, Page 4-6.
2. Remove the front left wheel. See Wheel Removal, Section 8, Page 8-1.
3. Remove the steering joint assembly (Figure 14-11, Page 14-13).
2
TYPICAL 3
3 PLACES
1
544
Figure 14-11 Compound Steering Joint
4. Drill out the two pop rivets (27) securing the intake duct to the floorboard (Figure 14-12, Page 14-14).
5. Remove three screws (1) and flat washers (29) from the bottom of the air box assembly.
6. Lift air box assembly off the intake duct. Be careful that the intake seal on the bottom of the air box assembly is
not dislodged in the process.
7. Pull the intake duct forward and out of the vehicle.
The intake duct assembly is installed from the front of the vehicle.
1. Slide the intake duct between the round crossmember and the floorboard, moving it to the rear along the underside
of the floorboard. Insert the end of the intake duct through the slot in the front of the air box mounting plate.
2. Secure the front of the duct to the underside of the floorboard with two pop rivets (27) and flat washers (28)
(Figure 14-12, Page 14-14).
3. Install air box. See Air Box Installation on page 14-12.
4. Install steering joint assembly (1) (Figure 14-11, Page 14-13). Tighten bolts (2) to 15 ft-lb (20.3 N·m). See
following NOTE.
NOTE: Make sure steering wheel and front wheels are properly aligned before installing steering joint.
5. Install front left wheel. See Wheel Installation, Section 8, Page 8-1.
6. Install front body. See Front Body Installation, Section 4, Page 4-6.
22
23
8 26 19
21 20
10
12
26
15
22
2 18
4 16
5
3 17
14
00
0
00
11
24 27
28
27
28
28
29
28
1346
Figure 14-12 Air Intake and Choke Assemblies
CAUTION
• Engine damage will occur if the air box cover is not properly secured.
• If air box is extremely dirty, remove air box from vehicle and clean thoroughly.
• Use only Club Car replacement air filters (CC P/N 1015426). The use of other air filters could result
in engine damage. If the air filter is too thin, the cover will seat before the filter can seal, leaving
space for dirt to pass into the engine on all sides of the element. This will damage the engine and
void the warranty.
7. Install hose (21) and hose clamp (26) (Figure 14-12, Page 14-14). If equipped with screw clamp, tighten to 17
in-lb (1.9 N·m). Make sure clamp ends are located in the 12:00 o’clock position.
FUEL FILTERS
1. Turn the key switch to the OFF position and remove the key, place the Forward/Reverse handle in the NEUTRAL
position, and chock the wheels.
2. Disconnect battery. See Disconnecting the Battery – Gasoline Vehicles, Section 1, Page 1-3.
3. To prevent fuel drainage, turn the fuel shut-off valve (15) (Figure 14-13, Page 14-17) on the fuel tank to the
closed (OFF) position (Figure 14-18, Page 14-25).
4. Remove the clamps (16) and fuel lines (1 and 2) from the filter and plug the fuel lines.
CAUTION
• Fuel filters are marked with flow direction arrows. Make sure that filters are installed with arrows
pointing in the direction of fuel flow from tank to carburetor.
NOTE: This gasoline vehicle complies with the California Air Resources Board (CARB) evaporative emissions
regulations when equipped with MARK 4 DAYPERM C-U-06-030 or AVON GREENBAR G-05-018 fuel
hose (CC P/N 102865101). To remain in compliance with California regulations, replace any fuel hose on
this vehicle with Club Car P/N 102865101 having ‘DAYPERM C-U-06-030’ or ‘AVON GREENBAR G-05-018’
printed on the hose, or equivalent.
1. Install the fuel filter (17) in the fuel line. Use new clamps (16) (Figure 14-13, Page 14-17).
2. Turn the fuel shut-off valve to the ON position (Figure 14-18, Page 14-25).
3. Connect battery. See Connecting the Battery – Gasoline Vehicles, Section 1, Page 1-3.
4. Place the Forward/Reverse handle in the NEUTRAL position, chock the wheels, and the neutral lockout cam in
the MAINTENANCE position. See following DANGER.
DANGER
• Repair all fuel leaks before operating the vehicle.
5 14
15
18
14 10
2 16 17
19
16
1
16
16 11
16 24
3 16 12
23 4 14
16
26 25 6
6 Impulse line
1347
Figure 14-13 Fuel and Vent Lines
FUEL PUMP
NOTE: A plastic fuel pump replaced the metal fuel pump during the 2010 model year. This plastic pump cannot
be disassembled and must be replaced.
GENERAL INFORMATION
The gasoline vehicle is equipped with an impulse fuel pump. If the fuel pump is not operating properly, perform
the following tests:
• Make sure all hose clamps are tight.
• Inspect the impulse line and fuel lines for damage or clogging.
• Make sure the air vent on the fuel pump is not clogged with dirt.
• Make sure the fuel filters are not clogged.
NOTE: To clean the air vent, the fuel pump must be disassembled (metal pump) or replaced (plastic pump).
1. Turn the key switch to the OFF position and remove the key, place the Forward/Reverse handle in the NEUTRAL
position, and chock the wheels.
2. Disconnect battery. See Disconnecting the Battery – Gasoline Vehicles, Section 1, Page 1-3.
3. Turn fuel shut-off valve on top of the fuel tank to the closed (OFF) position (Figure 14-18, Page 14-25).
4. Remove hardware attaching the fuel pump (24) and lift the fuel pump out of the engine compartment (Figure
14-13, Page 14-17).
5. Remove the clamp and impulse line (7) from fuel pump.
6. Disconnect the fuel lines (2 and 3) from the pump and plug them to prevent fuel leakage. See following
WARNING.
WARNING
• Carefully drain any fuel remaining in the pump into an approved container. Add drained fuel back
into fuel tank or dispose of properly.
CAUTION
• Fuel pump gaskets and diaphragms must be installed in exactly the same positions and orientations
they were in before disassembly, or the pump could leak. If leaking occurs, all new gaskets and
diaphragms must be installed.
NOTE: A fuel pump rebuild kit is available from your distributor/dealer (CC P/N 1014524). This kit includes all
gaskets, diaphragms, and valves.
1. Using a nonflammable solvent, clean the front cover, pumping chamber, and back cover. Be sure the vent
(40) on the front cover is clean both inside and out.
2. Inspect the valve assemblies (31, 32, and 33) and all gaskets and diaphragms for damage (Figure 14-14,
Page 14-19).
3. If a valve assembly is damaged, the rubber retaining plug (33) and valve assembly must be replaced.
33 32
2
24 31 1
40 39 30
25
37
38 3
27
5
34
4
28
35
29
36
1. Fuel Outlet 2. Vent 3. Fuel Inlet 4. Impulse Line 5. Direction of
Fuel Flow
547 548
Figure 14-14 Fuel Pump Figure 14-15 Fuel Pump Orientation
1. Install the fuel gasket (35) and diaphragm (34) on the back cover (36) (Figure 14-14, Page 14-19).
2. Install the valve assembly in the pumping chamber (30). See following CAUTION.
CAUTION
• If the valve assembly is not installed exactly as shown (Figure 14-14, Page 14-19), the impulse fuel
pump will not operate properly.
3. Install the pumping chamber (30) on top of the fuel diaphragm (34). Be sure the fuel inlet (38) and the fuel outlet
(39) align with the arrows on the front of the front cover (Figure 14-14, Page 14-19).
4. Install the gasket (29), clear impulse diaphragm (28), and the paper impulse gasket (27) to the pumping chamber
(30).
5. Install the front cover (37) and then the lock washers (25) and four screws (24) on the assembly (Figure 14-14,
Page 14-19). Be sure the arrows on the front cover point from the fuel inlet to the fuel outlet (Figure 14-15,
Page 14-19). Tighten the screws to 26 in-lb (3.0 N·m).
1. Connect to the fuel pump the fuel line (2) that comes from the fuel filter (17). Install a new clamp (16). Route
the fuel lines as shown (Figure 14-13, Page 14-17).
NOTE: Be sure to connect the fuel line (2), that comes from the fuel filter (17), to the inlet nipple on the pump.
Direction of fuel flow is indicated by the arrows on the fuel pump (Figure 14-13, Page 14-17). See also
Figure 14-15, Page 14-19.
2. Connect to the output side of the fuel pump, the fuel line (3) that goes to the carburetor.
3. Connect the impulse line (7) to the bottom nipple on the fuel pump. Use a new clamp (16).
4. Install the fuel pump. Tighten hardware to 40 in-lb (4.5 N·m) (Figure 14-13, Page 14-17).
5. Connect battery. See Connecting the Battery – Gasoline Vehicles, Section 1, Page 1-3.
6. Turn the fuel shut-off valve on top of the fuel tank to the open position (Figure 14-18, Page 14-25).
7. Place the Forward/Reverse handle in the NEUTRAL position, chock the wheels, and the neutral lockout cam in
the MAINTENANCE position. See following DANGER.
DANGER
• Repair all fuel leaks before operating the vehicle.
8. Start the engine and check for fuel leaks. If the fuel pump leaks, a rebuild kit must be installed to replace all
gaskets and diaphragms.
9. Place the neutral lockout cam in the OPERATE position.
GENERAL INFORMATION
The vehicle is equipped with a high impact plastic, seven gallon (26.5 liter) fuel tank.
WARNING
• If the fuel tank is damaged, replace it. Do not attempt to repair it. See the following tank removal
and disposal procedure.
CAUTION
• Add only unleaded fuel to the tank. Do not put oil in the fuel tank.
NOTE: This gasoline vehicle complies with the California Air Resources Board (CARB) evaporative emissions
regulations when equipped with MARK 4 DAYPERM C-U-06-030 or AVON GREENBAR G-05-018 fuel
hose (CC P/N 102865101). To remain in compliance with California regulations, replace any fuel hose on
this vehicle with Club Car P/N 102865101 having ‘DAYPERM C-U-06-030’ or ‘AVON GREENBAR G-05-018’
printed on the hose, or equivalent.
1. Place the Forward/Reverse handle in the NEUTRAL position, chock the wheels, and the neutral lockout cam in
the MAINTENANCE position.
2. Remove the rear body.
3. Turn fuel shut-off valve to the closed (OFF) position and run the engine until fuel remaining in the carburetor, fuel
pump, and fuel lines is used up and the engine stalls (Figure 14-18, Page 14-25).
4. Turn the key switch to the OFF positon, and remove the key.
5. Disconnect battery. See Disconnecting the Battery – Gasoline Vehicles, Section 1, Page 1-3.
6. Return the neutral lockout cam to the OPERATE position.
7. Loosen, but do not remove, the carburetor drain screw (11) and drain fuel remaining in the carburetor bowl into an
approved container (Figure 14-4, Page 14-4). Retighten carburetor drain screw.
8. Using a siphon with a suction device, siphon all fuel out of the tank and into an approved container. See
following DANGER and WARNING.
DANGER
• Gasoline – Flammable! Explosive! Do not smoke. Keep sparks and flames away from the vehicle and
service area. Service only in a well-ventilated area.
WARNING
• Do not attempt to siphon fuel using a hose that does not have a built-in suction device.
• Do not attempt to siphon fuel using your mouth.
9. If vehicle is equipped with a fuel gauge, disconnect the black wire and orange wire from the fuel level sending
unit on the tank (Figure 14-16, Page 14-22). Do not remove the lower nut on the center stud of the sending
unit. See following WARNING.
WARNING
• Make sure the key switch is off before disconnecting wiring.
10. Remove the vent tube (6) and fuel line (1) from the fuel tank (Figure 14-13, Page 14-17).
11. Loosen the strap (18) by removing the screw (12) from the speed nut (11).
12. Lift the fuel tank out of the vehicle.
549
Figure 14-16 Fuel Level Sending Unit
1. Remove the cap from the tank and thoroughly rinse it with water. The cap may be discarded or kept as a spare.
2. In a well-ventilated area, flush the fuel tank with water to remove any remaining fuel.
3. In a well-ventilated area, set the tank upside down so that the water can drain out of it. To make sure that the tank
dries completely, allow the tank to sit for 24 hours. See following CAUTION.
CAUTION
• Dispose of wastewater and fuel tank in accordance with local, state, and federal laws and ordinances.
1. Remove the cap from the tank and thoroughly rinse it with water.
2. In a well-ventilated area, flush the fuel tank with water to remove any remaining fuel.
1. With the retaining strap correctly positioned, install the fuel tank in the vehicle.
2. Secure the tank with the retaining strap (18) (Figure 14-13, Page 14-17).
2.1. Position the strap in the indention on the tank.
2.2. Install the screw (12) into the speed nut (11). Tighten screws and nuts to 25 in-lb (2.8 N·m).
3. Install the rear body on the vehicle if removed.
4. Install seat back support if removed.
5. Connect the vent tube (6) to the fuel tank vent (Figure 14-13, Page 14-17).
6. Connect the fuel line (1) to the fuel tank shut-off valve (15). Use a new clamp (Figure 14-13, Page 14-17).
7. If the vehicle has a fuel gauge, connect the black wire from the fuel gauge to one of the fuel level sending unit
screws. Connect the orange wire to the center stud and install the flat washer, lock washer, and nut. Tighten to
18 in-lb (2.0 N·m).
8. Slide the rubber boot over the stud (Figure 14-16, Page 14-22).
9. Add fuel to the tank.
10. Connect battery. See Connecting the Battery – Gasoline Vehicles, Section 1, Page 1-3.
11. Check to be sure the fuel shut-off valve on top of the fuel tank is in the open (ON) position (Figure 14-18,
Page 14-25).
12. Place the Forward/Reverse handle in the NEUTRAL position, chock the wheels, and the neutral lockout cam in
the MAINTENANCE position. See following DANGER.
13. Turn the key switch to the ON position and press the accelerator to start the engine. See following DANGER.
DANGER
• Do not operate gasoline vehicle in an enclosed area without proper ventilation. The engine produces
carbon monoxide, which is an odorless, deadly poison.
• After installing the fuel tank and adding fuel, carefully check all fuel lines and connections for leaks.
Repair any fuel leaks before operating the vehicle.
14. Allow the engine to run for a few minutes to ensure that the fuel lines are full of fuel.
15. Inspect each fuel line for leaks.
15.1.Check all of the fuel line clamps at the carburetor, fuel filter, fuel pump, and fuel tank for leaks.
15.2.Inspect each fuel line to ensure that the lines are not cracked, cut, or worn.
1
2
24
Figure 14-17 Fuel Tank
FUEL LINES
NOTE: This gasoline vehicle complies with the California Air Resources Board (CARB) evaporative emissions
regulations when equipped with MARK 4 DAYPERM C-U-06-030 or AVON GREENBAR G-05-018 fuel
hose (CC P/N 102865101). To remain in compliance with California regulations, replace any fuel hose on
this vehicle with Club Car P/N 102865101 having ‘DAYPERM C-U-06-030’ or ‘AVON GREENBAR G-05-018’
printed on the hose, or equivalent.
The fuel lines must be properly routed, and all hose clamps must be tight. The fuel lines should be kept clean.
See following WARNING.
WARNING
• Make sure fuel lines are the right length and are properly routed. Failure to heed this warning could
result in damage to fuel lines and fire.
Fuel line no. 1 runs directly from the fuel tank to the fuel filter (17). The fuel filter (17) has an arrow indicating fuel
flow direction (Figure 14-13, Page 14-17).
Fuel line no. 2 runs directly from the fuel filter to the fuel inlet of the fuel pump.
Fuel line no. 3 runs directly from the fuel outlet of the fuel pump to the carburetor.
Small spring steel band clamps are used on all hose connections except at the carburetor. A screw band clamp (16)
should be used at the carburetor.
The fuel shut-off valve is located on top of the fuel tank (Figure 14-18, Page 14-25). The fuel shut-off valve should
always be turned to the closed (OFF) position during vehicle storage, towing or trailering. Unless the engine will be
run as part of a procedure, the fuel shut-off valve should also be closed (OFF) before performing maintenance or
service procedures.
449
Figure 14-18 Fuel Shut-off Valve – 49-State Fuel Tank
FUELING INSTRUCTIONS
DANGER
• Turn the key switch to the OFF position before fueling.
• Do not pour fuel into the fuel tank when the engine is hot or while it is running.
• To avoid electric arc caused by static electricity, the fuel storage/pumping device must be grounded. If
the pump is not grounded, the vehicle must be grounded to the pump before and during the fueling
operation.
• If the vehicle has an all-weather enclosure installed, be sure the fuel tank is properly vented as shown
(Figure 14-17, Page 14-24).
• To avoid the possibility of fire, clean up any spilled fuel before operating the vehicle.
CAUTION
• To allow for expansion, do not fill higher than 2.54 cm (one inch) from the top of the fuel tank. Avoid
spilling fuel.
NOTE: Whenever possible, avoid using oxygenated fuels and fuels that are blended with alcohol. Vehicles to be
stored for extended periods should be prepared for storage as instructed. See Preparing the Gasoline
Vehicle for Extended Storage, Section 3, Page 3-5.
DANGER
• See General Warnings on page 1-1.
WARNING
• See General Warnings on page 1-1.
MUFFLER
MUFFLER REMOVAL
WARNING
• Hot! Do not attempt to service hot engine or exhaust system. Failure to heed this warning could
result in severe burns.
1. Disconnect battery and spark plug wire(s). See Disconnecting the Battery – Gasoline Vehicles, Section
1, Page 1-3.
Remove the muffler clamp (6) from the muffler (1) and clamp bracket (2) (Figure 15-1, Page 15-2).
2. Remove the hex-head cap screw (7), lock washer (8), and flat washer (9) from mounting bracket. Retain the
governor cable bracket (13).
3. Remove the hex nuts (10) and lock washers (11) from the manifold.
4. Remove the muffler (1) from the vehicle.
MUFFLER INSTALLATION
NOTE: Any time the muffler is removed from the vehicle, install a new muffler clamp (6) (CC P/N 1017689) and muffler
gasket (12) (CC P/N 1015330) (Figure 15-1, Page 15-2).
1. Loosely secure muffler (1) to muffler bracket (2) with clamp (6).
2. Place a new gasket (12) on the cylinder block exhaust stud bolts.
3. Attach muffler manifold with lock washers (11) and hex nuts (10) and finger tighten.
4. Loosely secure muffler (1), mounting bracket, and governor cable bracket (13) using hex-head cap screw (7), lock
washer (8), and flat washer (9).
5. Tighten manifold hex nuts (10) to 11 ft-lb (14.9 N·m).
6. Tighten the hex cap screw (7) to 14 ft-lb (18.9 N·m).
7. Tighten the muffler clamp (6) to 40 in-lb (4.5 N·m).
NOTE: Removing and installing the governor cable bracket may change the RPM setting. See Engine RPM
Adjustment, Section 14, Page 14-11.
8. Connect battery and spark plug wire(s). See Connecting the Battery – Gasoline Vehicles, Section 1, Page 1-3.
9. Place the Forward/Reverse handle in the NEUTRAL position and the neutral lockout cam in the MAINTENANCE
position (Figure 16-1, Page 16-2). Start the engine and check for exhaust leaks and proper engine operation.
See following DANGER.
DANGER
• Do not operate gasoline vehicle in an enclosed area without proper ventilation. The engine produces
carbon monoxide, which is an odorless, deadly poison.
10. Return the neutral lockout cam to the OPERATE position (Figure 16-2, Page 16-2).
7 6
12
000
10
11 000
1
2
5
4
3
13
835
Figure 15-1 Exhaust System
DANGER
• See General Warnings on page 1-1.
WARNING
• See General Warnings on page 1-1.
GENERAL INFORMATION
The vehicles addressed in this manual are equipped with heavy-duty, fully-synchronized Unitized Transaxles. The
unitized transaxle utilizes fully-synchronized internal gearing to change vehicle direction. Because the unitized
transaxle is used to reverse vehicle direction, the engine, drive clutch, belt, and driven clutch rotate in the same
direction; therefore, the engine and clutches are not subjected to reversing loads. This reduces maintenance
requirements on the engine and clutches. With the unitized transaxle, power is transferred from the engine through the
drive clutch, the drive belt, the driven clutch, and then through the unitized transaxle to the wheels.
SHIFTER LEVER
A shifter lever, connected to a shifter arm, is used to change the gears to one of three shift positions: FORWARD (F),
NEUTRAL (N), or REVERSE (R) (Figure 16-3, Page 16-2). Bring the vehicle to a complete stop before changing
FORWARD or REVERSE direction.
NEUTRAL LOCKOUT
During normal vehicle operation, the neutral lockout feature prevents the engine from running when the
Forward/Reverse handle is in the NEUTRAL position. If a vehicle is started in FORWARD or REVERSE and then
shifted to NEUTRAL, the engine will stop running.
For the convenience of the trained technician, there is a neutral lockout cam (yellow knob) located on the back of the
Forward/Reverse shifter, inside the engine compartment. If the neutral lockout cam is pulled out approximately 3/8
inch (10 mm) and then rotated one-half turn until it snaps into place, the cam will be in the MAINTENANCE position
(Figure 16-1, Page 16-2). When the switch is in the MAINTENANCE position, it will allow the technician to run
the engine in the NEUTRAL position to perform certain maintenance and/or repair functions. With the cam in this
position, the vehicle will not operate if the Forward/Reverse handle is placed in either the FORWARD or REVERSE
position. See following WARNING and NOTE.
WARNING
• With the cam in the MAINTENANCE position and the engine running, the vehicle may move suddenly if
the Forward/Reverse handle is shifted or accidentally bumped. To prevent this, chock the front and
rear wheels and firmly set the park brake before servicing or leaving the vehicle.
NOTE: Be sure to return the cam to the OPERATE position (Figure 16-2) after servicing the vehicle, or it will not run
with the Forward/Reverse handle in either the FORWARD or REVERSE position.
8 9
Figure 16-1 Neutral Lockout – Maintenance Figure 16-2 Neutral Lockout – Operate
GOVERNOR SYSTEM
The governor system regulates vehicle ground speed. It is mounted inside the unitized transaxle and is driven by
transaxle gears. If any of the governor linkages are removed in order to service other components, readjustment of the
governor linkage is required. See Governor Cable Installation and Adjustment on page 14-9.
The unitized transaxle is extremely durable and should require very little service under normal operating conditions.
The only service required is to maintain proper lubricant level. See Periodic Lubrication Schedules, Section 10,
Page 10-6. Under normal operating conditions, adjustment to the system should not be required.
C l u bC a r
F N R
1348 553
Figure 16-3 Shifter Positions (Top View) Figure 16-4 Lubricant Level (should be level with bottom
of hole) and Drain Plug
Hydraulic floor jack (or chain hoist) Torque wrench, 3/8-in. drive 1/2-in. combination wrench
Jack stands (2) (one ton capacity) 3/8-in. socket, 3/8-in. drive 9/16-in. combination wrench
Standard slip joint pliers 7/16-in. socket, 3/8-in. drive Small flat blade screwdriver
External snap ring pliers (.047-in. tip) 1/2-in. socket, 3/8-in. drive Medium flat blade screwdrivers (2)
90° Internal snap ring pliers (.090-in. tip) 9/16-in. socket, 3/8-in. drive No. 2 phillips-head screwdriver
16-in. rolling head prybar 5/8-in. socket, 3/8- in. drive 1/4-in. nut driver
Plastic or rubber mallet Axle seal tool (CC P/N 1014162) 5/16-in. nut driver
LUBRICATION
There are two oil port plugs located on the right (driven clutch) side of the unitized transaxle (Figure 16-4, Page 16-2).
When the vehicle is on a level surface, use the upper plug as a lubricant level indicator. Lubricant level should be even
with the bottom of level indicator hole. Use the lower plug for draining. When draining lubricant, remove both plugs to
allow the lubricant to drain faster. Clean and reinstall the drain plug and gasket before filling the transaxle with new
lubricant. Tighten drain plug to 20 ft-lb (27.1 N·m). Use a funnel when filling the transaxle through the lubricant level
indicator hole. Fill with 27 oz. (0.8 liter) 80-90 WT. API class GL or 80-90 WT. AGMA class 5 EP gear lubricant (or until
lubricant begins to run out of the level indicator hole). Install upper plug and gasket and tighten to 20 ft-lb (27.1 N·m).
AXLE SHAFT
Removal of the unitized transaxle is not required for servicing or replacing axle shafts, axle bearings, or axle shaft oil
seals. If the unitized transaxle is to be removed from the vehicle, do not remove the wheels, axle shafts, or axle tubes
first. Instructions for removing the unitized transaxle from the vehicle begin on page 16-7.
1. Turn the key switch to the OFF position and remove the key, place the Forward/Reverse handle in the NEUTRAL
position, and chock the wheels.
2. Disconnect battery and spark plug wire(s). See Disconnecting the Battery – Gasoline Vehicles, Section
1, Page 1-3.
3. Loosen the lug nuts on the wheel to be removed.
4. Place chocks at the front wheels and lift the rear of the vehicle with a floor jack. Then place jack stands
under the axle tubes to support the vehicle. See WARNING “Lift only one end of the vehicle...” in General
Warnings on page 1-1.
5. Remove the rear wheel and brake drum.
6. Use 90° internal snap ring pliers (0.090-in. tip) to remove internal retaining ring (1) from axle tube (Figure
16-5, Page 16-4).
7. Carefully pull the axle shaft (2) straight out of the axle tube (Figure 16-5, Page 16-4).
1
0
554
Figure 16-5 Retaining Ring
8. Position a 16-inch (40 cm) rolling head prybar (Figure 16-6, Page 16-4) under the inside lip of the seal and pull
the oil seal out (Figure 16-7, Page 16-4). See following CAUTION.
CAUTION
• Do not scar or damage the inside surfaces of the tube when removing the oil seal. A damaged tube
might have to be replaced.
555 556
Figure 16-6 Rolling Head Prybar Figure 16-7 Seal Lip
9. Inspect the axle shaft assembly to be sure the bearing (71) and collar (73) have not slipped and are still seated
against the shoulder on the axle shaft (Figure 16-8, Page 16-5).
10. Inspect the bearing. If the bearing is damaged or worn, replace it.
AXLE BEARING
Axle Bearing Removal
1. Use external retaining ring pliers (0.047-inch tip) to remove the retaining ring (74). Place a bearing puller wedge
attachment (CC P/N 1012812) on the axle shaft between the wheel mounting flange and the bearing (Figure
16-8, Page 16-5). See also Figure 16-9, Page 16-7.See following CAUTION.
CAUTION
• Do not tighten the bearing puller wedge attachment against the axle shaft. This could damage the axle
shaft when pressing the bearing and collar off.
2. Press the bearing (71) and collar (73) off together (Figure 16-8, Page 16-5). See also Figure 16-9, Page 16-7.
See following NOTE.
Do not remove the large axle retaining ring (70) from the axle (Figure 16-8, Page 16-5). Since the inner
diameter of the retaining ring (70) is smaller than the outer diameter of the bearing (71), the ring must be
in place on the axle before a new bearing and collar are pressed on.
75
74
71
72
72
73
70
67
76 68
74 70
71
73 73
74
71
70
557
Figure 16-8 Differential Gear Case and Axle Tubes
Axle Bearing Installation
1. Ensure that the retaining ring (70) is loosely placed on the axle shaft. See preceding NOTE.
2. Install a new axle bearing (71) on axle (67 or 68). Push bearing onto axle until bearing is flush against axle
shoulder (Figure 16-8, Page 16-5).
3. Apply two drops of Loctite 271® to inside of the collar. See following CAUTION.
CAUTION
• Apply Loctite 271 to the inside of the collar only, not to the shaft, so that the Loctite will be pushed
away from the bearing as the collar and bearing are pressed on. If Loctite gets on or in the bearing,
the bearing must be replaced.
• The collar should be removed no more than two times. If a collar is removed a third time, the shaft
and collar will not fit properly.
4. Place a new sealed bearing (71) on shaft (67 or 68) (Figure 16-8, Page 16-5).
5. Install collar (73) onto axle shaft. Place axle assembly on bearing puller wedge attachment and press collar
onto axle.
6. Place the bearing puller wedge attachment against collar and press both bearing and collar onto shaft. See
following CAUTION.
CAUTION
• If the bearing was removed from the shaft, replace it with a new one.
• Do not tighten the bearing puller wedge attachment against the axle shaft. This could damage the axle
shaft when the bearing and collar are pressed on.
7. Use external snap ring pliers (0.047-in. tip) to install collar retaining ring (74) (Figure 16-8, Page 16-5).
1. Clean bearing and seal seats in axle tube (75 or 76) (Figure 16-8, Page 16-5).
2. Place a new oil seal (72) in axle tube with seal lip facing inside of the axle tube (Figure 16-8, Page 16-5). Use
an axle seal tool (CC P/N 1014162) to press it in until it seats firmly in position (Figure 16-10, Page 16-7).
See following NOTE.
NOTE: The new seal can be installed by tapping the axle seal tool with a mallet.
CAUTION
• Clean any residual oil from the exposed end of the axle shaft and from the oil seal area prior to
installing the axle shaft.
3. Clean the axle shaft and splines and then insert the shaft, splined end first, through the seal and into the axle
tube. Be careful not to damage the seal. Then advance the shaft through the inner bearing and rotate it to
align the shaft splines with the splined bore of the differential side gear. Continue advancing the shaft until the
bearing seats against the axle tube shoulder.
4. Install the bearing retaining ring (70) in the axle tube (Figure 16-8, Page 16-5). See also Figure 16-5, Page 16-4.
5. Place a 1/4 to 3/8-inch (6-10 mm) diameter rod against the retaining ring and tap lightly at four to five locations to
ensure it is properly seated. See following WARNING.
WARNING
• Be sure bearing retaining ring is properly seated in its groove. If ring is not properly installed, the axle
assembly will separate from the transaxle and damage the axle assembly and other components. Loss
of vehicle control could result in severe personal injury or death.
6. Connect battery and spark plug wire(s). See Connecting the Battery – Gasoline Vehicles, Section 1, Page 1-3.
558 559
Figure 16-9 Press Bearing and Collar From Shaft Using Figure 16-10 Axle Seal and Seal Tool
Bearing Puller Wedge Attachment
1. Turn the key switch to the OFF position and remove the key, and place the Forward/Reverse handle in the
NEUTRAL position.
2. Disconnect battery and spark plug wire(s). See Disconnecting the Battery – Gasoline Vehicles, Section
1, Page 1-3.
3. Close the fuel shut-off valve on fuel tank (Figure 14-18, Page 14-25).
4. Detach all wires, hoses, etc. connecting the powertrain to the vehicle.
4.1. Disconnect the carburetor vent tube from the carburetor (Figure 16-11, Page 16-8).
4.2. Disconnect the air intake hose from the carburetor (Figure 16-12, Page 16-8).
847 561
Figure 16-11 Carburetor Vent Tube Figure 16-12 Air Intake Hose
4.3. Disconnect impulse line from fuel pump (Figure 16-13, Page 16-8).
4.4. Loosen the hose clamp and then disconnect the fuel line from the carburetor. To prevent spilling fuel, the
disconnected end of the line can be plugged with a 1/4-inch bolt (Figure 16-14, Page 16-8).
562 846
Figure 16-13 Impulse Line Figure 16-14 Fuel Line
4.5. Remove the cover from the electrical component box. Then loosen the hardware securing the accelerator
cable to the box. Disconnect the cable from the actuator cam and remove it from the box (Figure 16-15,
Page 16-9).
4.6. Remove retaining nut and disconnect the engine ground wire from the oil filler tube mounting bracket
(Figure 16-16, Page 16-9).
564 565
Figure 16-15 Throttle Cable and Retaining Nuts (Top View) Figure 16-16 Engine Ground Wire and Retaining Nut
4.7. Loosen nuts securing shifter cable to shifter cable mounting bracket. Then disconnect the shifter cable rod
end from the shifter arm on the unitized transaxle and remove the cable from the cable mounting bracket
(Figure 16-17, Page 16-9).
4.8. Mark for identification and then disconnect the 6-gauge white wire (F2 post), 6-gauge black ground wire (A2
post), and 16-gauge yellow wire (DF post) from starter/generator (Figure 16-18, Page 16-9).
1 DF
2
DF
F2 3
1 2
1349 1350
Figure 16-17 Shifter Cable (Top View) Figure 16-18 Generator Wires
4.9. Disconnect the engine oil level sensor wire (18-gauge yellow) at the connector just to the rear of the
starter/generator) (Figure 16-19, Page 16-10).
4.10.Disconnect the engine kill switch wire (18-gauge white/black) from the bullet connector at the lower right
front of the engine (Figure 16-20, Page 16-10).
4.11. Cut away the wire ties securing the engine kill wire at the lower right front of the engine (below the exhaust
header), the wire harness at the governor cable bracket, and the wire harness to the plate beneath the
muffler.
568 569
Figure 16-19 Oil Level Sensor Jumper Wire Figure 16-20 Ignition Kill Wire
5. Disconnect the brake cables.
5.1. Remove bow tie pins (1), brake cable clevis pins (2), and E-clips (3) (Figure 16-21, Page 16-10).
5.2. Remove the cable from the cable support bracket (Figure 16-21, Page 16-10).
3 1
570
Figure 16-21 Brake Cable (Rear View)
6. Remove the lower shock mounting hardware from both rear shocks (Figure 16-22, Page 16-11).
7. Position a floor jack under the vehicle frame crossmember or trailer hitch mount (Figure 16-23, Page 16-11).
1351 1352
Figure 16-22 Shock Absorbers Figure 16-23 Floor Jack Positioned Under Vehicle
8. Raise vehicle just enough to relieve tension from leaf springs, then remove the bolts securing the leaf springs to
the shackles (Figure 16-24, Page 16-11).
9. Remove the bolts securing the leaf springs to their front mounts (Figure 16-25, Page 16-11).
838 574
Figure 16-24 Rear Shackles Figure 16-25 Spring Retainer Bolts
10. Continue raising vehicle until frame or trailer hitch is higher than the top of the unitized transmission (enough to
allow transaxle and engine to be rolled under and out of vehicle) (Figure 16-26, Page 16-12).
11. Position jack stands, adjusted to support the vehicle at this height, under the frame crossmember between the
leaf spring mounts and side stringers, just forward of each rear wheel. Lower the floor jack to allow the jack
stands to support the vehicle (Figure 16-27, Page 16-12).
Clu
bC
ar
Club
Ca
r
Clu
bC
ar
Club
Ca
r
1353 1354
Figure 16-26 Raise Vehicle Figure 16-27 Position Jack Stands On Both Sides of
Frame
12. Pull the floor jack from beneath the vehicle and move it away.
13. Carefully lift the snubber out of the snubber bracket in the vehicle frame and lower it to the floor (Figure 16-28,
Page 16-12). The powertrain should be completely disconnected from the vehicle and resting on the floor.
14. Grasp the ends of the leaf springs at the rear of the vehicle and roll the powertrain out from under the vehicle
(Figure 16-29, Page 16-12).
r
Ca
Club
1355 1356
Figure 16-28 Snubber and Bracket Figure 16-29 Remove Powertrain
15. Place blocks under the engine pan so they will completely support the engine and keep it level to the floor
(Figure 16-30, Page 16-13). See following NOTE.
NOTE: Place the blocks so they will support the engine when the transaxle is detached and moved away from
the engine.
579 580
Figure 16-30 Position Powertrain on Wood Blocks Figure 16-31 Remove Drive Belt
17. Remove the driven clutch retaining bolt and remove the driven clutch from the unitized transaxle (Figure 16-32,
Page 16-13).
18. Loosen, but do not remove, the governor arm retaining bolt (1) (Figure 16-33, Page 16-13). Remove the
governor arm from the shaft. Do not disconnect cables.
581 582
Figure 16-32 Driven Clutch Figure 16-33 Governor Arm
19. Remove screws (1) securing the governor cable bracket to transaxle (Figure 16-34, Page 16-14).
20. Remove screws (1) securing the accelerator cable bracket to transaxle (Figure 16-35, Page 16-14).
583 584
Figure 16-34 Governor Cable Bracket Figure 16-35 Accelerator Cable Bracket
21. Remove screws (2) securing the transmission shift cable bracket (1) to transaxle (Figure 16-37, Page 16-14).
See following NOTE.
NOTE: The governor cable and the accelerator cable should remain attached to the governor arm.
22. Remove the six bolts mounting the unitized transaxle to the engine.
22.1.Remove four transaxle mounting bolts (one at each corner of the transaxle mounting plate) (Figure 16-36,
Page 16-14).
22.2.Remove two middle transaxle mounting nuts from the engine block studs.
23. Remove leaf springs, wheels and brake assemblies from the transaxle.
585 586
Figure 16-38 Transaxle Mounting Figure 16-39 Governor Arm
7. Install the governor cable bracket on transaxle case. Tighten the mounting screws to 134 in-lb (15.1 N·m)
(Figure 16-34, Page 16-14).
8. Install governor lever arm on governor shaft (Figure 16-39, Page 16-15).
8.1. With the governor lever arm loose on the governor shaft, turn the governor arm shaft counterclockwise
until it stops. Then pull the governor lever arm rearward until the carburetor throttle is in the “wide open
throttle” (WOT) position (Figure 16-39, Page 16-15).
8.2. While holding the arm and shaft in the fully counterclockwise position, tighten the governor arm lever nut to
35 in-lb (4.0 N·m) (Figure 16-39, Page 16-15).
9. Install the key onto the input shaft (Figure 16-40, Page 16-16).
10. Position the driven clutch on the transaxle input shaft and install the washer (yellow side facing out) and mounting
bolt. Tighten the mounting bolt to 14 ft-lb (19.0 N·m) (Figure 16-40, Page 16-16).
11. Install the drive belt. See Drive Belt Installation, Section 17, Page 17-3.
12. Remove the blocks from under the engine and roll the powertrain into position under the vehicle. Then lift the front
of the powertrain and place the snubber into the snubber bracket in the vehicle frame (Figure 16-41, Page 16-16).
ar
bC
Clu
587 588
Figure 16-40 Driven Clutch and Key Figure 16-41 Snubber and Bracket
13. Position the floor jack under the rear frame crossmember and raise the jack high enough to support the vehicle
(Figure 16-42, Page 16-16). Make sure the vehicle is stable on the jack, then remove the jack stands.
14. After the jack stands are removed, lower the vehicle to approximately its normal height. Position the leaf springs
in the front spring mounts and install the bolts and lock nuts. Tighten to 15 ft-lb (20.3 N·m).
15. Adjust the vehicle height with the floor jack to position the leaf springs for mounting in the shackles. Install the
mounting bolts and lock nuts (Figure 16-43, Page 16-16). Tighten lock nuts to 27 ft-lb (36.6 N·m).
1358 1359
Figure 16-42 Leaf Springs Figure 16-43 Leaf Springs and Shackles
16. Position shocks in the shock mounts and install cushions, mounting washers and nuts (Figure 16-44, Page
16-17). Tighten nuts until cushions expand to be the same diameter as the mounting washers.
17. Connect brake cables.
18. Connect the engine kill switch wire (18-gauge white/black) to the bullet connector at the lower right front of
the engine (Figure 16-45, Page 16-17).
19. Install three wire ties to secure the engine kill wire to the accelerator cable where they both route together on the
passenger side of the engine.
1351 569
Figure 16-44 Shock Absorber Figure 16-45 Ignition Kill Wire
20. Connect the oil level sensor wire (18-gauge yellow) to the jumper wire (Figure 16-46, Page 16-17).
21. Connect the 6-gauge white wire to the F2 post, the 6-gauge black ground wire to the A2 post and tighten both
wires to 48 in-lb (5.4 N·m). Connect the 16-gauge yellow wire to the DF post on the starter/generator and tighten
to 30 in-lb (3.4 N·m) (Figure 16-47, Page 16-17).
1 DF
2
DF
F2 3
568 1350
Figure 16-46 Oil Level Sensor Jumper wire Figure 16-47 Starter/Generator
22. Connect the Forward/Reverse shifter and bracket to the transaxle.
22.1.Install the three screws (2) securing the Forward/Reverse shifter cable bracket (1) to the transaxle and
tighten them to 135 in-lb (15.3 N·m) (Figure 16-37, Page 16-14).
22.2.Place the woodruff key (10) on the shifter shaft (9).
22.3.Place the shifter lever (6) (aligned with the woodruff key) onto the Forward/Reverse shaft (9).
22.4.Install the nut (3), washer (4), and bolt (7) on the Forward/Reverse shifter lever and tighten to 23 in lb
(4.1 N·m).
23. Position the shifter cable in the shifter cable mounting bracket on the transaxle and tighten the mounting nuts to
22 ft-lb (29.8 N·m). Connect shifter cable rod end to the shifter arm (Figure 16-48, Page 16-18).
24. Attach the ground wire to the mounting screw on the oil filler tube mounting bracket and tighten to 50 in-lb
(5.7 N·m) (Figure 16-49, Page 16-18).
1 2
1349 565
Figure 16-48 Shifter Cable (Top View) Figure 16-49 Engine Ground and Retaining Nut
25. Connect accelerator cable to actuator cam in the electrical box. Position the accelerator cable in the mounting
slot in the wall of the electrical box and tighten mounting nuts to 18 in-lb (2.0 N·m) (Figure 16-50, Page 16-18).
Install electrical box cover and tighten mounting screw.
26. Remove the 1/4-inch bolt from the fuel line and connect the fuel line to the carburetor and secure with a hose
clamp (Figure 16-51, Page 16-18).
564 846
Figure 16-50 Connect Cable to Cam and Secure with Figure 16-51 Connect Fuel Line
Retaining Nuts
27. Connect the impulse line to the fuel pump and secure it with the hose clamp (Figure 16-52, Page 16-19).
28. Connect air intake hose to carburetor and secure hose clamp (Figure 16-53, Page 16-19).
562 561
Figure 16-52 Impulse Line Figure 16-53 Air Intake Hose
29. Connect carburetor vent tube to carburetor and secure with hose clamp (Figure 16-54, Page 16-19).
847
Figure 16-54 Carburetor Vent Tube
30. Install transaxle drain plug and tighten to 21 ft-lb (28.5 N·m).
31. Fill transaxle with 27 oz. (0.8 liter) 80-90 Wt. API class GL-3 or 80-90 WT. AGMA class EP gear lube. Install and
tighten the level indicator hole plug to 21 ft-lb (28.5 N·m).
32. Ensure that all wiring is secured properly. See following WARNING.
WARNING
• If wires are removed or replaced make sure wiring and wiring harness is properly routed and secured
to vehicle frame. Failure to properly route and secure wiring could result in vehicle malfunction,
property damage or personal injury.
33. Connect battery and spark plug wire(s). See Connecting the Battery – Gasoline Vehicles, Section 1, Page 1-3.
34. Turn the fuel shut-off valve on top of the fuel tank to the open position (Figure 14-18, Page 14-25).
35. Place the Forward/Reverse handle in the NEUTRAL position, chock the wheels, and the neutral lockout cam in
the MAINTENANCE position. See following DANGER.
DANGER
• Repair all fuel leaks before operating the vehicle.
36. Start the engine and check for fuel leaks. If the fuel pump leaks, a rebuild kit must be installed to replace all
gaskets and diaphragms.
37. Place the neutral lockout cam in the OPERATE position.
38. Adjust the engine RPM setting. See Engine RPM Adjustment on page 14-11.
1. Turn the key switch to the OFF position and remove the key. Place the Forward/Reverse handle in the NEUTRAL
position and chock the wheels.
2. Disconnect battery and spark plug wire(s). See Disconnecting the Battery – Gasoline Vehicles, Section
1, Page 1-3.
3. Remove the ball joint socket (2) from the Forward/Reverse shifter assembly ball stud (3) (Figure 16-56, Page
16-22).
4. Remove the ball joint socket (10) from the shifter arm ball stud (11) on the transaxle.
5. Loosen the retaining nuts (5) on both ends of the cable and remove the wire tie.
6. Remove cable from the vehicle.
1. From the Forward/Reverse shifter, route the cable toward the driver side of the vehicle so it lies against the side
of the front body, turns 90° and passes to the driver side of air intake box, over the battery, beside the fender
and then turns again to connect with the shifter arm on the transaxle (Figure 16-55, Page 16-21). Make sure
cable does not touch muffler.
2. Secure the cable with a retaining nut (5) on each side of the shifter cable support bracket at the transaxle (Figure
16-56, Page 16-22). Tighten nuts to 22 ft-lb (29.8 N·m).
3. Secure the cable with a retaining nut (5) on each side of the shifter cable support bracket at the Forward/Reverse
assembly. Tighten nuts to 43 in-lb (4.9 N·m).
4. Install the ball joint socket (10) on the shifter lever ball stud (11) on the transaxle.
5. Install the ball joint socket (2) on the Forward/Reverse shifter assembly ball stud (3).
6. Attach Forward/Reverse cable at cable retainer (7).
7. Install wire tie (8) to secure wire harness to cable at the support bracket near the Forward/Reverse shifter
assembly. See following WARNING.
WARNING
• If wires are removed or replaced, make sure wiring and wiring harness is properly routed and secured.
Failure to properly route and secure wiring could result in vehicle malfunction, property damage,
personal injury, or death.
8. Connect battery and spark plug wire(s). See Connecting the Battery – Gasoline Vehicles, Section 1, Page 1-3.
1361
Figure 16-55 Forward/Reverse Shifter Cable Routing
With the shifter lever of the unitized transaxle in the NEUTRAL position, the Forward/Reverse handle (9) should be
straight up (Figure 16-56, Page 16-22). For minor adjustments, the nut (1) may be loosened and the ball joint socket
(2) rotated to get the proper adjustment. See following CAUTION.
CAUTION
• Be sure threads of cable are engaged in ball joint socket at least 1/4 inch (6.35 mm). If ball joint socket
comes loose from the cable, the Forward/Reverse shifter will not operate properly.
CO
M
NO
NC
3
8 2 10
1
11
4
5
7
5
1360
Figure 16-56 Forward/Reverse Shifter Cable
For major adjustments, the cable jacket retaining nuts (6) must be loosened and adjusted. When the cable is properly
adjusted, with the Forward/Reverse handle (9) (Figure 16-56, Page 16-22) in the NEUTRAL position, the shifter arm of
the transaxle will also be in the NEUTRAL position (Figure 16-57, Page 16-22). Retighten nuts at the transaxle to 22
ft-lb (29.8 N·m); retighten nuts at the Forward/Reverse assembly to 43 in-lb (4.9 N·m).
F N R
1348
Figure 16-57 Forward/Reverse Shifter Positions
DANGER
• See General Warnings on page 1-1.
WARNING
• See General Warnings on page 1-1.
GENERAL INFORMATION
The torque converter consists of a drive clutch, a driven clutch, and a drive belt. The drive clutch, which is mounted to
the engine, is in the open position when the engine is at idle. At this point, the belt is riding at a low position (smaller
diameter) on the drive clutch. The driven clutch is mounted on the transaxle. It is in the closed position, and the drive
belt is riding at a high position (large diameter) on it when the engine is at idle.
At the point of clutch engagement, the speed ratio of the drive clutch to the driven clutch is 3.5 to 1. This ratio provides
excellent starting and low-speed torque.
As engine speed increases, centrifugal force on internal weights close the drive clutch, pushing the belt up to a higher
position on the clutch (increasing the diameter of the belt loop). As the diameter of the belt loop increases at the drive
clutch, the driven clutch is forced open as the diameter of its belt loop decreases. At governed top speed, the ratio
of drive clutch to driven clutch is 0.92 to 1.
On steep grades, or when the vehicle is heavily loaded, higher torques are achieved through the use of a
torque-sensing ramp device on the driven clutch. This device overcomes the force of the centrifugal weights to close
the driven clutch and open the drive clutch, thus increasing axle torque with little or no change in engine RPM.
The engine and torque converter rotate clockwise as viewed from the clutch side of the engine.
To provide optimum performance for the OHV engine and powertrain, the vehicle uses a pair of tuned clutches.
To properly assemble and disassemble the torque converter, the following tools should be used:
• Torque Converter Tool Kit (CC P/N 1014510) (Figure 17-1, Page 17-2).
• Scribe or small pick (not included in torque converter tool kit).
TROUBLESHOOTING
Maintaining proper adjustment of the engine and governor, as well as the torque converter, is essential to the
troubleshooting process. If these adjustments are within specifications and, when climbing a steep hill, the engine
begins to lose RPM before the drive belt reaches the top of the driven clutch, there is a torque converter problem.
If the torque converter is not operating properly, perform the following steps:
1. Check the governor and throttle settings. See Governor Cable on page 14-8.
2. Inspect the driven clutch for dirt and dust buildup on its component parts. Clean the driven clutch with water to
remove any dust or dirt, then drive the vehicle and check for proper operation.
3. If cleaning the driven clutch does not solve the problem, disassemble and thoroughly clean all parts of the drive
clutch. Be sure to clean the plastic drive buttons (10) (Figure 17-5, Page 17-6).
3
(CC P/N 101809101)
1
2
(CC P/N 1014497)
(CC P/N 1014508)
5
WARNI
NG
(CC P/N 1014507)
593
Figure 17-1 Torque Converter Tool Kit
DRIVE BELT
The drive belt should be inspected semiannually for wear and (or) glazing. If it is excessively worn, frayed, or
glazed, replace the belt.
As the drive belt wears, the engine RPM will increase to compensate for the change in torque converter ratio. This will
keep the vehicle’s maximum ground speed correct. See Section 2 – Vehicle Specifications.
1. Disconnect battery and spark plug wire(s). See Disconnecting the Battery – Gasoline Vehicles, Section
1, Page 1-3.
2. Grasp the belt midway between the drive (2) and driven (1) clutches. Lift upward on the belt to force the sheaves
of the DRIVEN clutch apart, then roll the belt off the DRIVEN clutch by rotating the clutch counterclockwise
(Figure 17-2, Page 17-3). See following CAUTION.
CAUTION
• Make sure fingers are not underneath the belt when rolling the belt off the driven clutch.
594
Figure 17-2 Drive Belt Removal
1. Position the new belt on the drive clutch, then start the belt over the top of the driven clutch.
2. With the belt started onto the driven clutch, rotate the driven clutch counterclockwise and roll the belt over the
driven clutch sheaves and onto the clutch.
3. Connect battery and spark plug wire(s). See Connecting the Battery – Gasoline Vehicles, Section 1, Page 1-3.
DRIVE CLUTCH
CAUTION
• Be very careful when handling the clutches. A clutch that has been dropped will not be properly
balanced. If either clutch is dropped, assume that it is damaged and replace it.
1. Remove the drive belt as instructed. See Drive Belt Removal on page 17-3.
2. Loosen the starter/generator mounting and adjusting hardware and then remove the starter belt. See WARNING
“Moving parts! Do not...” in General Warnings on page 1-1.
1
WARNING
2 2
1
(CCI P/N 1014496)
595 596
Figure 17-3 Loosen Retaining Bolt Figure 17-4 Drive Clutch Removal
3. Place chocks at the front wheels and lift the rear of the vehicle with a chain hoist or floor jack. Place jack stands
under the axle tubes to support the vehicle. This will allow the weight of the centerline of the drive clutch to drop
below the frame I-beam for access to the bolt securing the drive clutch. See following WARNING.
WARNING
• Lift only one end of the vehicle at a time. Use a suitable lifting device (chain hoist or hydraulic floor
jack) with 1000 lb. (454 kg) minimum lifting capacity. Do not use lifting device to hold vehicle in raised
position. Use approved jack stands of proper weight capacity to support the vehicle and chock
the wheels that remain on the floor. When not performing a test or service procedure that requires
movement of the wheels, lock the brakes.
4. Remove the drive clutch retaining bolt (17) and mounting washer (19) (Figure 17-5, Page 17-6). See also Figure
17-3, Page 17-4. See following NOTE.
4.1. Use the drive clutch holder tool (1) while tightening or loosening the drive clutch retaining bolt (2) (Figure
17-3, Page 17-4).
4.2. Hook clutch holder on boss (3) of pulley located behind drive clutch and push against the adjacent boss
with holder.
5. Lubricate the threaded portion of the clutch puller tool (1) with a light oil and thread the clutch puller tool into the
clutch retaining bolt hole (Figure 17-4, Page 17-4).
6. Use a 1/2-inch drive air wrench to tighten the clutch puller tool. The drive clutch (2) will pull free of the crankshaft.
7. Support the drive clutch assembly in your hand and back the clutch puller tool out of the crankshaft.
CAUTION
• Do not hit or tap the clutch with a hammer. Do not pry the clutch. These actions will damage the clutch.
CAUTION
• Do not lubricate the drive clutch. Lubricants attract dirt and dust, which interfere with proper clutch
operation.
• Use only a dry cloth to lightly wipe the shaft of the fixed face assembly (7) (Figure 17-5, Page 17-6). Do
not use a brush or steel wool. These will damage the surface of the shaft.
• Do not use solvents. Solvents will damage the lubricating characteristics of the bushings.
2. Inspect the belt contact surfaces of the clutch sheaves for wear. If any area of a sheave contact surface has
wear of 0.060 inch (1.52 mm) or more, the clutch should be replaced.
2
7
6
10
5
4
1
13
12
3 12
11
15
22 16 14
21
20
19
17
597
Figure 17-5 Drive Clutch Assembly
CAUTION
• The drive clutch is balanced as an assembly. Before disassembly, make match marks on the drive
clutch hub and on the moveable face assembly so they can be reassembled in the same positions
(Figure 17-6, Page 17-7).
1. Make match marks on the drive clutch hub and on the moveable face casting (Figure 17-6, Page 17-7).
2. Remove the drive clutch hub (1) (Figure 17-5, Page 17-6):
2.1. Remove the three plugs (22) from the clutch puller attachment holes (Figure 17-5, Page 17-6).
2.2. Thread the center bolt of the Drive Clutch Hub Puller (1) (CC P/N 1014497) into clutch until the stop nut
touches the clutch, then back the bolt out one-half turn (Figure 17-7, Page 17-7).
2.3. Thread the three small bolts of the puller (1) into corresponding holes in the clutch. Tighten bolts evenly,
making sure the face of the puller plate is parallel to the face of the clutch (Figure 17-7, Page 17-7).
2.4. Unscrew the puller center bolt out of the clutch to pull drive clutch hub off.
1
(CCI P/N 1014497)
598 599
Figure 17-6 Mark Drive Clutch Hub Figure 17-7 Remove Drive Clutch Hub
3. Remove the thrust washer (11) from the moveable face (14) (Figure 17-5, Page 17-6).
4. Remove the drive buttons (3) by removing the screws (1), flat washers (2), and drive button take-up springs
(4) as shown (Figure 17-8, Page 17-8).
1 2
2
3
600 601
Figure 17-8 Drive Button Mounting Figure 17-9 Weight Position
5. Remove the clutch weights:
5.1. Remove the screws (1) and flat washers (2) attaching the weights (3) as shown (Figure 17-9, Page 17-8).
5.2. Pull the weight assemblies (3), with pins, from slots (4) in the clutch. See following NOTE.
NOTE: Before removing, note the orientation of the wave washer (1) and secondary weight (2) on the primary
weight (3) (Figure 17-10, Page 17-8).
5.3. Remove the plastic washers, weights (2 and 3) and wave washer (1) from the pin (4). Retain all parts.
4 2
602
Figure 17-10 Primary and Secondary Weights, Wave
Washer and Pin
NOTE: If the moveable face is removed from the hub of the fixed face, the spiral back-up rings (12) must be replaced
with new ones (Figure 17-5, Page 17-6).
7. Remove the spacer (16), and spring (4) and retainer (5). The spring retainer can be removed from the spring
if necessary (Figure 17-5, Page 17-6).
8. If necessary, remove idler bearing (2). Use a press (1) and bearing puller (3) to remove the bearing from the
fixed face assembly (4) (Figure 17-11, Page 17-9). See following NOTE.
NOTE: Do not remove the idler bearing unless it needs to be replaced. If idler bearing is removed, replace it with a
new bearing.
9. Use a scribe or small pick to remove the spiral backup rings (12) from each end of the bore in the fixed face
assembly (Figure 17-5, Page 17-6). See also Figure 17-12, Page 17-9. Discard the rings.
2
3
604 605
Figure 17-11 Remove Idler Bearing Figure 17-12 Spiral Back-up Rings
1. Inspect the idler bearing (6) for smooth rotation or seal damage (Figure 17-5, Page 17-6). See following NOTE.
NOTE: It is normal for a small amount of grease to be present at the edge of seal.
2. Inspect the bore of the moveable face assembly (14) for scarring or wear. The moveable face assembly must be
replaced if the bore is worn to a diameter of 0.883 inch (22.4 mm) or larger (Figure 17-5, Page 17-6).
3. Inspect the steel shaft (7) on the fixed face assembly. There should be no measurable wear anywhere on the
shaft. Replace the shaft if it is worn, scratched, or damaged.
4. Inspect the thrust washer (11) for wear. If it is worn more than 0.030 inch (0.76 mm), turn it over or replace
it with a new one.
5. Inspect the primary weights (2) and the hub casting for wear. If the primary weights show signs they are touching
the casting, the tips of the weights have worn beyond specification and they must be replaced.
6. Inspect the pins on the primary weights (2). There should be no measurable wear. Replace them if they are
worn, scratched, or damaged.
7. Inspect the drive belt pulley sheaves for excessive wear or damage. If the sheaves are excessively worn or
damaged, replace the entire fixed face drive assembly.
1. Press idler bearing (6) onto the shaft of the fixed face assembly (7). Press on the inner race of the bearing only.
Make sure that the cup side of bearing is facing away from the fixed face (Figure 17-5, Page 17-6).
2. Using needle nose pliers, install the spring retainer (5) onto the spring (4).
3. Install the spring (4) and retainer (5) into the cup of the idler bearing (6).
4. Install the spacer (13) onto the shaft of the fixed face.
5. Install a new spiral backup ring (12) in each end of the bore of the moveable face assembly (14).
6. Install the moveable face assembly (14) onto the shaft of the fixed face assembly (7).
CAUTION
• To avoid damaging the spiral back-up rings, be very careful when installing the moveable face.
6.1. Rotate the moveable face assembly clockwise while installing it onto the shaft.
6.2. Install the retaining ring (3) (Figure 17-5, Page 17-6).
7. Install the primary weights (3) on the mounting pins (4) (Figure 17-10, Page 17-8).
8. Install a wave washer (1) on each mounting pin (4). Make sure that the concave side of the washer faces the side
of the primary weight (3) with the small guide pin protruding from it (Figure 17-10, Page 17-8).
9. Install the secondary weights (2) onto the mounting pins (4) with the weight pins on the secondary weights
pointing away from the primary weights (3). The wave washers should be between the primary and secondary
weights (Figure 17-10, Page 17-8).
10. Install white plastic flat washers on each end of the mounting pin and push them against the outside surfaces of
the weights. Center the weights and washers on the mounting pin (Figure 17-13, Page 17-10).
11. Install the weight assemblies into the slots (4) in the hub casting (Figure 17-9, Page 17-8). Make sure the
mounting pin protrudes an equal amount on each side of the weights when the assemblies are in position
(Figure 17-13, Page 17-10).
606
Figure 17-13 Install White Washers
12. Install the 1/4-20 bolts and washers (2) and tighten them to 10 ft-lb (13 N·m) (Figure 17-5, Page 17-6). See
following NOTE.
NOTE: Make sure there is at least a (minimum) gap of 0.020 inch (0.51 mm) between each end of the mounting pin
and the mounting bolt.
607
Figure 17-14 Correct Orientation of Drive Button Take-up Springs
1. Place the drive clutch assembly on the crankshaft taper. Position the mounting washer (19) on the bolt (17) and
start the bolt into the crankshaft (Figure 17-5, Page 17-6). See following NOTE.
NOTE: The drive clutch retaining bolt has left-hand threads. The manufacturer recommends replacing the drive clutch
retaining bolt (CC PN 103345701) when installing the drive clutch. If a new bolt is not available, clean the
threads of the original bolt and apply Loctite® 242 to the threaded end prior to installation.
2. Tighten the drive clutch retaining bolt (17) to 25 ft-lb (33.9 N·m) (Figure 17-5, Page 17-6).
3. Install the starter/generator belt and adjust belt tension as instructed. See Belt Tension Adjustment on page
12-12. Tighten the starter/generator mounting hardware to 23 ft-lb (31.2 N·m) and the adjusting hardware to
13 ft-lb (17.6 N·m).
4. Install the drive belt as instructed. See Drive Belt Installation on page 17-3.
5. Connect battery and spark plug wire(s). See Connecting the Battery – Gasoline Vehicles, Section 1, Page 1-3.
6. Drive the vehicle and check for proper operation.
DRIVEN CLUTCH
1. Remove the drive belt as instructed. See Drive Belt Removal on page 17-3.
2. Remove the bolt (11) and mounting washer (12) from the clutch shaft (Figure 17-17, Page 17-14).
3. Grasp the driven clutch assembly and slide it off the shaft.
4. Leave the key (9) in the keyway.
1. Using external snap ring pliers, remove the retaining ring (4) (Figure 17-15, Page 17-13). See following
WARNING.
WARNING
• Do not place fingers under the cam when removing the cam. The moveable face may spin when the
cam buttons release from the cam ramps, resulting in severe personal injury.
2. Insert a puller plug (2) (CC P/N 1014507) (Figure 17-16, Page 17-13) into the shaft bore and use a driven clutch
cam puller (1) (CC P/N 1014508) to remove the cam (3) from the fixed face shaft (Figure 17-17, Page 17-14).
3. Remove the spring (5) (Figure 17-17, Page 17-14).
4. Retain the key (3).
5. Slide the moveable face (7) off the fixed face shaft (8).
4
1
2 3
608 609
Figure 17-15 Remove Retaining Ring Figure 17-16 Driven Clutch Disassembly
1. Inspect the cam (4) for excessive wear. Replace it if necessary (Figure 17-17, Page 17-14).
2. Inspect the drive buttons (6) for excessive wear. Replace if necessary. To remove the drive buttons, remove
the socket-head cap screws and then the buttons.
3. Inspect the smooth surface on the fixed and moveable face assemblies. Assemblies must be replaced if surfaces
are worn more than 0.060 inch (1.5 mm).
4. Inspect the bronze bearing in the moveable face. If the bearing bore diameter is more than 1.384 inch (35.15
mm), the entire moveable face assembly must be replaced.
5. Inspect the shaft of the fixed face assembly. There should be no noticeable wear. Replace the shaft if it is
worn, scratched or damaged.
1. Place the three drive buttons (6) in position. Apply one drop of Loctite® 222 to each of the socket-head cap
screws and then install and tighten them to 8 in-lb (0.9 N·m) (Figure 17-17, Page 17-14).
2. Slide the moveable face assembly (7) onto the fixed face shaft (8).
3. Place the end of the spring (5) into the hole in the moveable face assembly.
4. Install the key (3) into the keyway of the fixed face assembly (8) shaft.
5
4 8
12
11
1
10
610
Figure 17-17 Driven Clutch Assembly
5. Holding the cam (4) in position for assembly on the shaft, install the other end of the spring (5) into the center
spring hole of the cam. Rotate the cam until the keyway is aligned with the key (3) on the fixed face assembly,
and then start the cam onto the shaft approximately 1/4 to 3/8 inch (6.3 to 9.5 mm).
5.1. Press Assembly Process:
NOTE: The retaining ring can be reused if the O.D. does not exceed 1.607 inches (40.82 mm); otherwise, it must be
replaced with a new ring (CC P/N 1014080).
5.1.4. While holding onto the cam, tap the end of the fixed face shaft lightly with a plastic mallet until the
cam seats against the retaining ring. See following CAUTION.
CAUTION
• Do not use a metal hammer to tap the fixed face hub. A metal hammer will damage the shaft.
1
5
3
4
6
2
1
2 2
3
611 612
Figure 17-18 Cam Press Tool Figure 17-19 Cam Installation Tool
5.2. Field Assembly Process:
NOTE: This process is for field assembly requirements where hydraulic and pneumatic press equipment is not
available. Use the cam installation tool (CC P/N 101808401) for this process.
5.2.1. With the clutch loosely assembled, set the edge of the clutch body (5) on a clean, flat surface
(Figure 17-19, Page 17-15).
5.2.2. Assemble the threaded bolt (1) through the washer (2), the thrust bearing assembly (3), the second
washer (2), and the hub guide (4).
NOTE: It is very important that the bolt, washers, and thrust bearing assembly be assembled in the order described
and shown.
5.2.3. Slide the bolt (1) through the clutch body (5) until the threaded bolt, washers, bearing, and hub
guide are against the fixed face hub (Figure 17-19, Page 17-15).
5.2.4. Hold the clutch assembly and cam installation tool together and place the fixed face down on
spaced blocks (Figure 17-18, Page 17-15).
5.2.5. Place the cam press hub (6) onto the cam installation bolt and thread it down onto the cam hub,
centering the press hub onto the cam hub.
5.2.6. Hold the fixed face assembly of the clutch (5) and rotate the moveable face of the clutch one-third
turn clockwise.
5.2.7. Use two wrenches, and hold the bolt head while tightening the cam press hub (6) pressing the cam
onto the keyed shaft. Advance the press hub until it is firm against the shaft end.
5.2.8. Remove the cam press hub (6) and installation tool, and install the retaining ring.
NOTE: The retaining ring can be reused if the O.D. does not exceed 1.607 inches (40.82 mm); otherwise, it must be
replaced with a new ring (CC P/N 1014080).
1. To install the driven clutch, reverse the removal procedure. Make sure that the washer (12) is mounted with the
flat portion of the washer against the driven clutch (Figure 17-17, Page 17-14). Secure with a new bolt (11).
See following NOTE.
NOTE: The bolt (11) must be replaced with a new bolt (CC P/N 102242101) containing a locking patch that will
prevent the bolt from loosening.
DANGER
• See General Warnings on page 1-1.
WARNING
• See General Warnings on page 1-1.
• Shorting of battery terminals can cause personal injury or death.
– Do not place component mounting plate directly on top of batteries when removing or installing
plate.
• Remove plate from vehicle completely.
GENERAL INFORMATION
The IQ System vehicle uses a 48-volt electrical system that is powered by four 12-volt lead-acid batteries and
includes an onboard computer. The IQ System vehicle uses a shunt-wound 3.2 hp motor and includes several
additional features.
• Shunt-Wound Motor: The shunt-wound motor, unlike a series motor, is designed so that the speed controller is
able to vary the amount of current passing through the field coils independently from the current passing through
the armature.
• Motor Braking: Under certain conditions a shunt-wound motor also has the ability to act as an electrical brake to
slow the vehicle. There are three features of the IQ electrical system which will activate the motor braking function:
Walk Away Braking, Pedal Down Motor Braking, and Pedal Up Motor Braking (adjustable with the IQDM-P handset).
• Walk Away Braking: This prevents the vehicle from rolling away uncontrolled should the driver park on a slope and
leave the vehicle without locking the park brake. The vehicle will roll at about 1 mph (1.6 km/h). If the walk away
braking function remains engaged for two seconds or more, a warning buzzer will sound to alert the driver that
motor braking has been activated.
WARNING
• Walk Away Braking will not limit vehicle speed to 1 mph (1.6 km/h) on very steep grades. Do not
operate vehicle on slopes exceeding 20% grades.
• Pedal Down Motor Braking: This feature helps to control vehicle downhill speed. Motor braking is activated when
the vehicle reaches the programmed top speed and holds the vehicle at that speed. Motor braking is automatically
disengaged when vehicle speed slows below the programmed top speed.
SONIC WELD
18_LT_GRE EN(W23)
18_RED(W06 )
6_RED(W57)
18_P INK(W21)
18_GRN(W25)
18_LT_BLU(W11)
18_GRA Y(W31)
REVERSE
BUZZER
FRONT
18_ORG(W24)
10_B LK(W58)
18_WHT(W22)
POS (+)
RESIST OR
NEG (-)
18_B RN_WHT(W08)
16_B LK_WHT(W42)
REVE RS E
6_YEL(W59)
KEY
2 1
SW ITCH
6_BLK(W55 )
10_BL K(W49)
FOR WARD 3 PIN PROGRAMMER
18_BLU(W0 3)
10_ORG(W61 ) PLUG
CONNECT OR
#18 BLU/YEL
#18 BLK/YEL
#18 GRN/YEL
#18 RED/YEL
10_BL U(W63 ) 18_B RN(W16)
18_GRA Y(W01)
18_RE D_YEL(W29)
6_YEL(W59 ) 18_B LU_YEL(W33)
18_GRN_ YEL(W15)
6_GRN(W64) 10_ORG(W61 )
18_Y EL(W13)
18_B LK_YEL(W14)
6_WHT(W62)
18_TAN(W12)
18_ORG_WHT(W05)
SONIC
18_BLU(W07)
WELD
18_L HT_BLU(W10)
18_GRN(W28)
DETAIL B CONTROLLE R
(CONTROLLER)
18_GRN(W32)
18_PUR_WHT(W34)
MCOR S P EED SW ITCH AS M
(THROTTLE DEVICE)
2 P IN
CONNECT OR
10_B LU(W63)
18_YEL(W18)
6_GRN(W64)
18_WHT(W04)
18_B LK_WHT(W09)
18_LT_G REEN(W02)
18_RE D(W19)
18_GRN_ WHT(W30)
(PIN 14) LT GRE EN: TO MOTOR SPEED SE NSOR O UTPUT (PIN 12) BL U/WHT : TO LOW SIDE OF S OLENOID COI L
(PIN 15) RED : TO HIGH SPEED OF MOT OR SPEED S ENSOR (PIN 11) : OPEN
(PIN 16) BL UE : TO FNR SWIT CH "RE V" (PIN 10) T AN : TO KEY SWITCH SONIC WELD
(PIN 9) GRA Y : AUX
16 9
8 1
(PIN 8) BROWN : T O FNR SWITCH " FOR" (PIN 1) WHITE : T O HIGH SIDE OF POTE NTIOMETER
(PIN 7) ORG/WHT : TO LOW SIDE OF REV ERSE BUZZER (PIN 2) YELLOW : TO SLIDER OF POT ENTIOMETER
(PIN 6) GREEN : TO ACCELERA TOR LIMIT SWITCH (PIN 3) PUR/WHT : TO LOW SIDE OF P OTENTIOMETER
(PIN 4) GRN/WHT : TO S. O. C
(PIN 5) LT BLUE : T O OBC " CONTROL LER LOCKOUT"
WD1029133B5-L
18_LT_G REEN(W23)
6_RED(W57) 6_RED(W57)
18_PINK (W21 )
TOW S WITCH
18_PIN K(W27)
FUSE & RECEP TACLE
SONI C WELD BRACKET ASM
18_GRA Y(W65)
18_WHT(W22)
18_BRN_ WHT(W08)
6_BLK
18_BRN_WHT(W08)
10_BLK(W51 )
6_BLK
18_RED(W26)
FUSE(101 8949 01)
(INCLUDED WITH FUSE
10_BLK(W54) & RECEPT ACLE ASM)
8 VOLT 6_BLK
BATTERIES
6_BLK
18_GRA Y(W52)
10_ORG(W61 ) 6_BLK
18_YEL (W13 )
ON-BOARD
6_WHT(W62) COMP UTER
18_LHT_ BLU(W10)
6_BLK
A2
MOTOR
F1
F2
A1
10_BLK(W50)
10_B LU(W63)
RE
K
3 PIN
BL
D
GRN
6_GRN(W64)
CONNECT OR
18_BL K_WHT(W09)
18_LT_GRE EN(W02)
18_RED(W19 )
18_GRN_WHT(W30 )
10_BL K(W49)
6_BLK(W55 )
12 VOLT
BATTERIES
6_RED(W57)
6_BLK(W55 ) TO ONBOARD COMPUT ER
6_BLK(W68 )
6_BLK(W66)
6_BLK(W69)
WD1029133B5-R
WHITE/BLACK
BLACK/WHITE
BLACK/WHITE
RED
GREEN
BLUE
WHITE/BLACK
YELLOW
BLACK
RED
BLUE
BLUE
WHITE
SONIC
WELD
BLACK/WHITE
BLACK/WHITE
WHITE/BLACK
SONIC
WELD
SOLENOID BLUE
BROWN
BLUE
RED
KEY
LIGHT
RED
SWITCH
RED
SWITCH
BROWN
48V HORN
YELLOW
RED
RED
YELLOW
BLACK
WHITE/BLACK
WHITE/BLACK
BLACK/WHITE
RELAY
SEE NOTE** COIL
BLACK
**
VOLTAGE
BLACK/WHITE
B– ACCESSORY
BLACK/WHITE
SUPPRESSOR
ORANGE
MOUNTING
TERMINAL
YELLOW/BLACK
SONIC
WELD
TURN SIGNAL SWITCH
RED
SONIC
ON DELUXE LIGHT KIT
WELD
YELLOW/BLACK
OR
HORN SWITCH ON
WHITE/BLACK
SONIC
WELD
BLACK
BLACK/WHITE
ORANGE
RED
GREEN
TAN
WHITE
BRAKE
SWITCH
YELLOW
SWITCH
BROWN
ORANGE
BLACK
BLACK
WHITE
NOTE**
BLACK WIRE FROM LIGHT
HARNESS MUST BE TERMINAL
DISCONNECTED FROM B– STRIP
ACCESSORY MOUNTING
TERMINAL AND PROTECTED
WITH TAPE WHEN DC/DC
CONVERTER IS INSTALLED. DRIVER-SIDE DRIVER-SIDE PASS-SIDE PASS-SIDE
TURN SIGNAL TAILLIGHT TAILLIGHT TURN SIGNAL
WD1029147
TROUBLESHOOTING
The following troubleshooting guides will be helpful in identifying operating difficulties should they occur. The guides
include the symptom, probable cause(s) and suggested checks. The procedures used in making these checks can be
found in the referenced sections of this maintenance and service manual.
Club Car recommends the use of the IQDM handset for troubleshooting vehicles equipped with the IQ electrical
system. Troubleshooting Guide 1 is to be used in conjunction with the IQDM handset. See IQ Display Module (IQDM)
and IQDM-P Diagnostics: IQ System on page 19-1 for operating instructions. See following WARNING.
WARNING
• The vehicle operator should not monitor the IQDM while the vehicle is in motion. A technician can
monitor the IQDM while traveling as a passenger in the vehicle. Failure to heed this warning could
result in severe personal injury or death.
In the event that the vehicle is not functioning properly after completing Troubleshooting Guide 1, the technician
should proceed to Troubleshooting Guide 2.
If an IQDM handset is unavailable, the technician should proceed to Troubleshooting Guide 2.
TROUBLESHOOTING GUIDE 1
The following troubleshooting guide is intended for use with an IQDM handset. See following NOTE.
NOTE: Before troubleshooting the vehicle, check the diagnostic history from the Special Diagnostics Menu. Note
any fault codes.
TROUBLESHOOTING GUIDE 1
SYMPTOM POSSIBLE CAUSES CORRECTIVE ACTION
Loose or disconnected three-pin connector at Repair and/or connect the three-pin connector
the MCOR or broken wire to the MCOR
Test Menu – THROTTLE % value does not
increase as the accelerator pedal is pressed Loose or disconnected 16-pin connector at Repair and/or connect the 16-pin connector
or Diagnostic Menu – THROTTLE FAULT 1 speed controller or broken wire to the speed controller
fault code
Test Procedure 4 – MCOR Voltage on page
Failed MCOR
18-14
Test Menu – HEATSINK °C indicates that Over-adjusted brakes Section 6 – Wheel Brake Assemblies
temperature is above 85 °C (145 °F) or
Diagnostic Menu – THERMAL CUTBACK fault Ensure that vehicle is not over-loaded before
Vehicle is over-loaded
code returning to operation
Test Menu – ARM PWM value does not reach Test Procedure 4 – MCOR Voltage on page
Failed MCOR
100% when vehicle is at full speed 18-14
Loose or disconnected motor speed sensor Repair and/or connect the three-pin connector
or broken wire to the motor speed sensor
Test Menu – SPEED PULSES menu item
indicates that speed pulses are OFF when Loose or disconnected 16-pin connector at Repair and/or connect the 16-pin connector
the vehicle is in motion or Diagnostic Menu – speed controller or broken wire to the speed controller
SPEED SENSOR fault code
Test Procedure 21 – Motor Speed Sensor on
Failed motor speed sensor
page 18-31
Loose or disconnected two-pin connector at Repair and/or connect the two-pin connector
the MCOR or broken wire to the MCOR
Test Menu – FOOT INPUT menu item indicates
Loose or disconnected 16-pin connector at Repair and/or connect the 16-pin connector
that the MCOR internal limit switch is always
speed controller or broken wire to the speed controller
ON or always OFF.
Test Procedure 8 – Key Switch and MCOR
Failed MCOR
Limit Switch Circuit on page 18-18
Test Menu – FORWARD INPUT and/or Loose or disconnected Forward/Reverse Repair and/or connect the three-pin connector
REVERSE INPUT does not indicate the rocker switch (three-pin connector) or broken from the Forward/Reverse switch to the wire
correct reading or Diagnostic Menu – wire harness
PROC/WIRING fault code Loose or disconnected 16-pin connector at Repair and/or connect the 16-pin connector
speed controller or broken wire to the speed controller
TROUBLESHOOTING GUIDE 1
SYMPTOM POSSIBLE CAUSES CORRECTIVE ACTION
Disconnect the batteries and allow the speed
controller capacitors to discharge. See
Speed controller logic malfunction Disconnecting the Batteries – Electric
Vehicles, Section 1, Page 1-5. Reconnect
Test Menu – MAIN CONT (solenoid) does
the batteries and see if the symptom returns.
not indicate ON when the solenoid should be
activated. or Diagnostic Menu – MAIN CONT Loose, broken, or disconnected wire(s) at Repair and/or connect the loose or
DNC (main contactor (solenoid) did not close) solenoid or B+ speed controller terminal disconnected wire(s)
fault code Loose or disconnected 16-pin connector at Repair and/or connect the 16-pin connector
speed controller or broken wire to the speed controller
Loose or disconnected wires at key switch Repair and/or connect the quick disconnect
terminals or broken wire terminals to the Forward/Reverse switch
Test Menu – KEY INPUT does not indicate ON Loose or disconnected 16-pin connector at Repair and/or connect the 16-pin connector
when key switch is in the ON position speed controller or broken wire to the speed controller
Loose or disconnected three-pin connector at Repair and/or connect the three-pin connector
the MCOR or broken wire to the MCOR
Diagnostic Menu – THROTTLE FAULT 1 fault Loose or disconnected 16-pin connector at Repair and/or connect the 16-pin connector
code speed controller or broken wire to the speed controller
Armature drive FET’s (field-effect transistors) Replace the speed controller. See Speed
inside speed controller have failed Controller Removal on page 20-10.
Diagnostic Menu – HW FAILSAFE (Hardware Disconnect the batteries and allow the speed
Failsafe) fault code controller capacitors to discharge. See
Speed controller logic malfunction Disconnecting the Batteries – Electric
Vehicles, Section 1, Page 1-5. Reconnect
the batteries and see if the symptom returns.
Diagnostic Menu – MAIN WELDED (main Replace solenoid. See Solenoid Removal on
Solenoid contacts have failed closed
solenoid contacts welded) fault code page 20-7.
Failure of the FET that controls the solenoid Replace the speed controller. See Speed
coil Controller Removal on page 20-10.
TROUBLESHOOTING GUIDE 1
SYMPTOM POSSIBLE CAUSES CORRECTIVE ACTION
Loose or disconnected motor field coil wires at
Repair and/or connect the field coil wires
motor or speed controller or broken wire
Loose or disconnected motor armature wires Repair and/or connect the motor armature
at motor or speed controller or broken wire wires
Diagnostic Menu – OPEN ARMATURE fault See Section 23 – Motor (Models EJ4-4001
Failure of the motor armature or brushes
code and EJ8-4001A).
Failure of the FET’s that control armature Replace the speed controller. See Speed
current Controller Removal on page 20-10.
TROUBLESHOOTING GUIDE 2
SYMPTOM POSSIBLE CAUSES CORRECTIVE ACTION
Batteries – Batteries discharged Charge batteries
TROUBLESHOOTING GUIDE 2
SYMPTOM POSSIBLE CAUSES CORRECTIVE ACTION
Test Procedure 21 – Motor Speed Sensor on
Speed sensor disconnected or failed
page 18-31
Vehicle runs slowly Inspect and tighten all wire connections at the
Motor – loose wires
motor.
Vehicle will run in forward, but not in reverse or Check motor wiring. See Wiring Diagram –
Motor – improperly wired
will run in reverse but not forward Electric Vehicle on page 18-2.
Speed controller – improperly wired or failed Check vehicle wiring. See Wiring Diagram –
speed controller FET Electric Vehicle on page 18-2.
Vehicle operates, but battery charger does not Battery charger connections – loose wires at Check wire connections and tighten if
charge batteries receptacle or batteries necessary.
TEST PROCEDURES
Using the following procedures, the entire IQ electrical system can be tested without major disassembly of the vehicle.
WARNING
• If wires are removed or replaced, make sure wiring and wire harness is properly routed and secured.
Failure to properly route and secure wiring could result in vehicle malfunction, property damage,
personal injury, or death.
NOTE: The batteries must be properly maintained and fully charged in order to perform the following test procedures.
Battery maintenance procedures, including watering information and allowable mineral content, can be found
in the Battery section of this manual. See Battery Care, Section 21, Page 21-13.
The battery voltage can be displayed with the IQDM handset. If an IQDM handset is not available, proceed to
Batteries / Voltage Check without the IQDM Handset.
1. Connect the IQDM to the vehicle. See Plugging the Handset into the Vehicle, Section 19, Page 19-1.
2. Access the Test menu and select BATT VOLTAGE by using the SCROLL DISPLAY buttons. The IQDM should
indicate at least 48 volts with the batteries fully charged. If not, check for loose battery connections or a battery
installed in reverse polarity. Refer to See Section 21 – Batteries. for further details on battery testing.
1. With batteries connected and using a multimeter set to 200 volts DC, place red (+) probe on the positive (+) post
of battery no. 1 and the black (–) probe on the negative (–) post of battery no. 4 (Figure 18-5, Page 18-12) or
battery no. 6 (Figure 18-4, Page 18-12). The multimeter should indicate at least 48 volts with the batteries fully
charged. If not, check for loose battery connections or a battery installed in reverse polarity. Refer to Batteries
on page 21-1 for further details on battery testing.
20 200 20 200
2 2m 2 2m
200 20 200 20
m m m m
200 200
2000 2000
k m m
k
200k 200k
20k 200 20k 200
2k A 2k A
S
O
P
(+)
G
E
N
V ! COM ! 200nA V ! COM ! 200nA
MAX MAX
1000 --- 1000 ---
FUSED FUSED
750V 750V
3
1
4
N
E
G
P
(–)
O
S
N
E
S
G
O
P
1
O
2
G
S
E
N
3
2
4
5
6
(Viewed from driver side of vehicle)
(Viewed from driver side of vehicle)
RED probe to battery no. 1 (+).
RED probe to battery no. 1 (+).
BLACK probe to battery no. 4 (-).
BLACK probe to battery no. 6 (-).
1842 1316
Figure 18-4 Battery Voltage Test – 6x8-Volt Battery Figure 18-5 Battery Voltage Test – 4x12-Volt Battery
Configuration Configuration
The solenoid lockout circuit disables the vehicle when the battery charger is plugged into the vehicle. Use the following
procedure to test the solenoid lockout circuit:
1. With batteries connected, place the Tow/Run switch in the RUN position.
2. Using a multimeter set to 200 volts DC, place black (–) probe on battery no. 4 (4 x 12-Volt battery set) or battery
no. 6 (6 x 8-Volt battery set) negative post and red (+) probe (with insulation-piercing probe) on the light
blue onboard computer wire (at a point between the OBC and the six-pin connector). The reading should be
approximately 48-50 volts (full battery voltage). If the reading is not 48-50 volts, proceed to step 3. If the reading
is 48-50 volts, proceed to Test Procedure 3 – Solenoid Activating Coil on page 18-13.
3. Place insulation-piercing probe on the light blue 18-gauge wire at a point between OBC six-pin connector and
main wire harness. If reading is 48-50 volts, check the wire terminal connectors inside six-pin connector at
OBC six-pin connector. Make sure pins are properly aligned inside housing. Make sure wire colors match and
are connected to the correct terminals.
4. If reading is zero volts, plug the charger DC cord into the vehicle charger receptacle. If the dash light illuminates
for 10 seconds, the OBC is now powered-up. Unplug the DC cord; the reading at the OBC light blue wire should
be approximately 48-50 volts. If the vehicle now operates normally, the DC cord has powered up the electrical
NOTE: Be aware that one of two different solenoids may be found on the vehicle. Visually, the production solenoid is
smaller than the service replacement. On the labels, the larger service replacement solenoid has SOL0605
and the smaller production solenoid has SOL5006. Internally, specifications and test results differ between
the two.
1. Disconnect the batteries and discharge the controller. See Disconnecting the Batteries – Electric Vehicles
on page 1-5.
2. Remove the two small wire terminals from the solenoid.
3. Place red (+) probe of the multimeter on the positive (+) solenoid terminal. Place the black (–) probe on the
other small solenoid terminal.
– A reading of 200 to 250 ohms should be obtained for factory-installed solenoids (Figure 18-6, Page 18-13). If
not, replace the solenoid.
– A reading of 180 to 190 ohms should be obtained for service replacement solenoids (Figure 18-7, Page
18-13). If not, replace the solenoid.
WAVETEK 5XL
V OFF V
1000 500
200 200
20
200 200
200
200
m
2000
k
20
m
200
m
+
2 2m
200k
200 20
m m 20k 200
2k A
200
2000
k m
200k
20k
2k
200
A
+
V ! COM ! 200nA
MAX
1000 ---
FUSED
750V
V ! COM ! 200nA
MAX
1000 ---
750V
FUSED 1
1. 2k Ohm Setting
2377 2500-20000-10283
Figure 18-6 Activating Coil Test – Factory-installed Figure 18-7 Activating Coil Test – Service Replacement
Solenoid Solenoid
The accelerator position, which is proportional to the MCOR voltage, can be displayed with the IQDM handset. If an
IQDM handset is not available, proceed to MCOR Voltage Test without the IQDM Handset.
1. Place chocks at the front wheels and lift the rear of the vehicle with a chain hoist or floor jack. Position jack stands
under the frame rails just forward of each spring mount. See WARNING “Lift only one end...” in General
Warnings on page 1-1. See also following WARNING.
WARNING
• The key switch should be placed in the OFF position and left in the OFF position for the duration
of this test.
1. Place chocks at the front wheels and lift the rear of the vehicle with a chain hoist or floor jack. Position jack stands
under the frame rails just forward of each spring mount. See WARNING “Lift only one end...” in General
Warnings on page 1-1. See also following WARNING.
WARNING
• The key switch should be placed in the OFF position and left in the OFF position for the duration
of this test.
2. With the batteries connected, place Tow/Run switch in RUN. Using a multimeter set to 200 volts DC, place
red (+) probe on battery no. 1 positive post and place black (–) probe (with insulation-piercing probe) on the
purple/white wire at a point close to the three-pin connector at the MCOR. The reading should be approximately
48-50 volts (full battery voltage).
3. If reading is zero volts, check the purple/white wire continuity from the three-pin connector at the MCOR to the
16-pin connector at the speed controller. Check terminal positions in three-pin connector at the MCOR and the
16-pin connector. If all of the continuity readings are correct and the connectors are wired correctly, replace the
speed controller.
4. With multimeter set to 20 volts DC, place the black (–) probe on battery no. 4 (4 x 12-Volt battery set) or battery
no. 6 (6 x 8-Volt battery set) negative post and the red (+) probe (with insulation-piercing probe) on the white wire
at a point close to the three-pin connector at the MCOR. The reading should be approximately 4.65 volts.
5. If reading is zero volts, check the white wire continuity from the three-pin connector at the MCOR to the 16-pin
connector at the speed controller. Check terminal positions in three-pin connector at the MCOR and the 16-pin
connector. If all of the continuity readings are correct and the connectors are wired correctly, replace the
speed controller.
6. With multimeter set to 20 volts DC, place the black (–) probe on battery no. 4 (4 x 12-Volt battery set) or battery
no. 6 (6 x 8-Volt battery set) negative post and the red (+) probe (with insulation-piercing probe) on the yellow
1. Place chocks at the front wheels and lift the rear of the vehicle with a chain hoist or floor jack. Position jack stands
under the frame rails just forward of each spring mount. See WARNING “Lift only one end...” in General
Warnings on page 1-1. See also following WARNING.
WARNING
• Keep people and equipment clear from rotating rear wheels. Do not allow persons under the car.
Contact with rotating rear wheels could result in serious personal injury.
2. With the batteries connected and using a multimeter set to 200 volts DC, place the black (–) probe on the A2
motor terminal (white wire) and connect the red (+) probe to the A1 (green wire) motor terminal.
3. With Tow/Run switch in the RUN position, place the Forward/Reverse switch in the FORWARD position, turn key
switch to the ON position and slowly press accelerator pedal.
4. As the accelerator pedal is pressed, the voltage reading should increase from approximately 5 volts RMS when
the MCOR limit switch closes, to approximately 48 volts RMS with the accelerator pedal fully pressed.
4.1. If there is no voltage reading, check the MCOR. See Test Procedure 4 – MCOR Voltage on page
18-14. Also check the continuity of the large posts of the solenoid. See Test Procedure 22 – Solenoid
Continuity on page 18-32.
4.2. Disconnect the batteries and discharge the controller. See Disconnecting the Batteries – Electric
Vehicles, Section 1, Page 1-5.
4.3. Check continuity on A1 and A2 motor terminal posts and continuity of the F1 and F2 motor terminal posts.
Also, check continuity of all motor wires. See Section 23 – Motor (Models EJ4-4001 and EJ8-4001A).
1. With the Tow/Run switch in the RUN position, connect the IQDM to the vehicle.
2. Immediately after the IQDM is connected to the vehicle, the screen should display a copyright notice and the
IQDM model number.
3. If the IQDM display screen is blank, drive the vehicle a short distance to activate the onboard computer.
4. If the IQDM display screen begins to work after the vehicle has been driven, turn the key switch to the OFF
position and proceed to step 5; otherwise, perform the following procedure, Tow/Run Switch Test without
the IQDM Handset.
5. With the IQDM still connected to the vehicle, place the Tow/Run Switch in the TOW position and wait 90 seconds.
6. If the IQDM display screen goes blank after 90 seconds, the Tow/Run switch and connecting wires are operating
correctly.
7. If the IQDM display screen is still active after 90 seconds, the switch has failed closed. Replace the Tow/Run
switch. See Tow/Run Switch Removal on page 20-4.
1. With the batteries connected and using a multimeter set on 200 volts DC, connect the black (–) probe to the
negative post of battery no. 4 (4 x 12-Volt battery set) or battery no. 6 (6 x 8-Volt battery set) and connect red (+)
probe (with insulation-piercing probe) on the light green wire close to the connector on the Tow/Run switch.
WARNING
• The key switch should be placed in the OFF position and left in the OFF position for the duration
of this test.
2. With the Tow/Run switch in the RUN position, the reading should be approximately 48-50 volts. With the switch in
the TOW position, the reading should be below approximately 5 volts.
3. If the reading is above 5 volts with the switch in the TOW position, replace the switch.
4. If the reading is below 5 volts with switch in the RUN position, check continuity of the pink 18-gauge wire from
the large post of the solenoid to the connector at the Tow/Run switch.
5. If the continuity readings are correct, replace the Tow/Run switch.
1. Be sure the batteries are fully charged and that the electrolyte level is correct in all cells.
2. Connect the tester leads to the positive (+) post of battery no.1 and negative (–) post of battery no. 4 (4 x 12-Volt
battery set) (Figure 21-3, Page 21-5) or battery no. 6 (6 x 8-Volt battery set) (Figure 21-5, Page 21-10).
3. Turn the discharge machine on and record the voltage reading of battery pack while under load.
4. A fully charged set of batteries in good condition should read between 46-49 volts while under load.
5. A reading of 32-46 volts indicates discharged or failed batteries. Each battery should be checked with a
multimeter while under load.
6. A reading of 32 volts or less will not activate discharge machine. If the voltage of the batteries is below 32 volts,
the batteries are deeply discharged or have failed.
7. Recording the battery pack voltage reading while under load provides a more accurate diagnosis of the condition
of the batteries. When the discharge machine is ON, it places the battery pack under load and many times
can help determine if one or more batteries in the set have failed. Testing battery voltage while the batteries
are not under load will not always indicate the true condition of the batteries. For more information about the
batteries, refer to See Section 21 – Batteries. .
Key Switch and MCOR Limit Switch Circuit Test with the IQDM Handset
1. Place chocks at the front wheels and lift the rear of the vehicle with a chain hoist or floor jack. Position jack
stands under the frame rails just forward of each spring mount. See WARNING “Lift only one end...” in
General Warnings on page 1-1.
2. Turn the key switch to the OFF position and place the Forward/Reverse switch in the NEUTRAL position.
3. Connect the IQDM to the vehicle.
4. Test the key switch.
4.1. Access the Test menu and select KEY INPUT by using the SCROLL DISPLAY buttons. The IQDM should
indicate OFF when the key switch is in the OFF position.
4.2. While monitoring the IQDM display screen, turn the key switch to the ON position. The IQDM should
indicate ON.
4.3. If the IQDM does not indicate that KEY INPUT is ON when the key switch is in the ON position, proceed to
the following procedure, Key Switch and MCOR Limit Switch Circuit Test without the IQDM Handset. If
the key switch functions as described, proceed to the following step. See following NOTE.
NOTE: The key switch MUST function properly in order to test the MCOR limit switch with the IQDM handset.
Key Switch and MCOR Limit Switch Circuit Test without the IQDM Handset
1. Disconnect the batteries and discharge the controller. See Disconnecting the Batteries – Electric Vehicles,
Section 1, Page 1-5.
2. Place chocks at the front wheels and lift the rear of the vehicle with a chain hoist or floor jack. Position jack
stands under the frame rails just forward of each spring mount. See WARNING “Lift only one end...” in
General Warnings on page 1-1.
3. Turn the key switch to the OFF position and place the Forward/Reverse switch in the NEUTRAL position.
4. Test the key switch.
4.1. Remove the instrument panel. See Key Switch Removal, Section 20, Page 20-1.
4.2. Using a multimeter set to 200 ohms, place the red (+) probe on the key switch terminal with the blue wire.
Place the black (–) probe on the other key switch terminal.
4.3. With the key switch in the OFF position, the multimeter should indicate that continuity is not present.
4.4. With the key switch in the ON position, the multimeter should indicate that continuity is present.
4.5. If any other reading is obtained, replace the key switch. See Key Switch Removal, Section 20, Page 20-1.
NOTE: Make sure that the key switch is operating correctly and that the key switch and instrument panel are properly
installed before proceeding.
5.1. With batteries connected and using a multimeter set to 200 volts DC, place the black (–) probe on the
battery no. 4 (4 x 12-Volt battery set) or battery no. 6 (6 x 8-Volt battery set) negative post and place
the red (+) probe (with insulation-piercing probe) on the green wire close to the two-pin connector on
the MCOR. See following WARNING.
WARNING
• The Forward/Reverse switch must be in the neutral position to avoid personal injury due to contact
with rotating wheels.
5.2. With Tow/Run switch in the RUN position, key switch in the ON position, and Forward/Reverse rocker switch
in the NEUTRAL position, the voltage reading should be zero volts. When the accelerator pedal is pressed,
the voltage reading should be approximately 48 volts (full battery voltage).
5.3. If the voltage reading is 48 volts when the accelerator pedal is not pressed, check pedal group for proper
adjustment. See Pedal Group Adjustment – Electric Vehicles on page 5-15.
5.4. If the voltage reading is zero volts when the accelerator pedal is pressed, check the limit switch circuit using
the following test procedures.
5.4.1. Using a multimeter set to 200 volts DC, place black (–) probe on battery no. 4 (4 x 12-Volt battery
set) or battery no. 6 (6 x 8-Volt battery set) negative post and the place red (+) probe (with
insulation-piercing probe) on the blue wire where it connects to the MCOR. With the key switch ON,
the reading should be approximately 48 volts (full battery voltage).
5.4.2. If the reading is zero volts, check the continuity of the blue wire that goes from the key switch to
the MCOR.
5.4.3. If the reading is approximately 48 volts, proceed to the following step.
5.4.4. Using a multimeter set to 200 volts DC, place the black (–) probe on the battery no. 4 (4 x 12-Volt
battery set) or battery no. 6 (6 x 8-Volt battery set) negative post and place the red (+) probe (with
insulation-piercing probe) on the green wire where it connects to the MCOR. With the Tow/Run
switch in the RUN position, the key switch ON, the Forward/Reverse rocker switch in NEUTRAL and
the accelerator pedal pressed, the reading should be approximately 48 volts (full battery voltage).
5.4.5. If the reading is zero volts, test the continuity of the MCOR limit switch and the green wire. If the
limit switch does not pass the continuity test, replace the MCOR. See MCOR Removal, Section
20, Page 20-5.
1. Disconnect the batteries and discharge the controller. See Disconnecting the Batteries – Electric Vehicles,
Section 1, Page 1-5.
2. Disconnect the 16-pin connector from the speed controller. Inspect terminal ends inside plug to ensure they are in
position and seated in plug housing. If any terminals look like they are not pushed all the way into the connector,
gently push the terminals until they are firmly seated in the 16-pin connector. After each terminal has been
pushed into the housing, gently pull on the wire to ensure it is locked into place.
3. Check wires in the plug to make sure none are broken at the terminal pin crimp. Repair or replace as required.
4. Check the wire colors of each wire and make sure that the colors for each pin position match the wire colors in the
wiring diagram. See Wiring Diagram – Electric Vehicle on page 18-2.
5. When connecting the 16-pin connector to the controller, push plug into controller receptacle with enough force to
lock plug into place. An audible click will be heard when plug is properly seated to the controller.
A procedure is provided for testing each of the wires in the 16-pin connector. Refer to the following chart for the
appropriate procedure for each pin in the 16-pin connector.
If the results of any of the referenced procedures are different from those described in the procedure, check the
continuity of the wires in the wire harness and test the connected components with the appropriate test procedures.
See Index of Test Procedures.
Pins 1, 2, and 3 in the 16-pin connector provide a connection point from the MCOR potentiometer to the speed
controller.
1. Disconnect the batteries and discharge the controller. See Disconnecting the Batteries – Electric Vehicles,
Section 1, Page 1-5.
2. Place chocks at the front wheels and lift the rear of the vehicle with a chain hoist or floor jack. Position jack
stands under the frame rails just forward of each spring mount. See WARNING “Lift only one end...” in
General Warnings on page 1-1.
3. Disconnect the 16-pin connector at the speed controller.
4. Using a multimeter set for 20k ohms, insert the red (+) probe of the multimeter into pin 2 (yellow wire) of the
16-pin connector. See following CAUTION. Insert the black (–) probe into pin 3 (purple/white wire) of the
16-pin connector (Figure 18-8, Page 18-21).
CAUTION
• Do not fully insert probes into the 16-pin plug. Doing so can result in a poor connection.
5. With the accelerator pedal fully up (not pressed), the multimeter should read approximately 1k ohms.
6. Slowly press the accelerator pedal while monitoring the multimeter. The resistance should rise as the pedal is
pressed. When the pedal is all the way to the floor, the multimeter should indicate between 5.67k ohms and
7.43k ohms.
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Figure 18-8 Pins 1, 2, and 3 Test
7. Using a multimeter set for 20k ohms, insert the red (+) probe of the multimeter into pin 2 (yellow wire) at the
16-pin connector. Connect the black (–) probe into pin 1 (white wire). See previous CAUTION.
8. With the accelerator pedal fully up (not pressed), the multimeter should indicate between 5.67k ohms and
7.43k ohms.
9. Slowly press the accelerator pedal while monitoring the multimeter. The resistance should drop as the pedal is
pressed. When the pedal is all the way to the floor, the multimeter should indicate approximately 1k ohms.
10. If any other reading is observed, check the continuity of the wires in the wire harness.
Pin 5 in the 16-pin connector provides a connection point for the solenoid lockout circuit from the onboard computer to
the speed controller.
1. Disconnect the batteries and discharge the controller. See Disconnecting the Batteries – Electric Vehicles,
Section 1, Page 1-5.
2. Place chocks at the front wheels and lift the rear of the vehicle with a chain hoist or floor jack. Position jack
stands under the frame rails just forward of each spring mount. See WARNING “Lift only one end...” in
General Warnings on page 1-1.
3. Disconnect the 16-pin connector at the speed controller.
4. Using a multimeter set for 200 volts DC, insert the red (+) probe of the multimeter into pin 5 (light blue wire) of the
16-pin connector. See following CAUTION. Using an alligator clip, connect the black (–) probe to the B– terminal
of the speed controller (Figure 18-9, Page 18-22).
CAUTION
• Do not fully insert probes into the 16-pin plug. Doing so can result in a poor connection.
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686
Figure 18-9 Pin 5 Test
5. Connect the batteries. See Connecting the Batteries – Electric Vehicles, Section 1, Page 1-5.
6. Place the Tow/Run switch in the RUN position.
7. The multimeter should indicate zero volts DC at this time.
8. While monitoring the multimeter, plug the battery charger into the vehicle charger receptacle.
9. After a short delay, the onboard computer should power-up (come out of sleep mode), charger relay should click,
and the ammeter on the charger should indicate that the vehicle batteries are being charged.
10. The multimeter should indicate zero volts DC while the charger is connected to the vehicle.
11. While observing the multimeter, disconnect the DC plug from the vehicle charger receptacle.
12. The multimeter should indicate full battery voltage when the charger is not connected to the vehicle.
13. If any other reading is obtained, check the following items:
– Continuity of the wires in the wire harness
– Onboard computer for proper operation. See Test Procedure 19 – Onboard Computer Gray Wire on
page 18-30.
– Tow/Run switch for proper operation. See Test Procedure 6 – Tow/Run Switch on page 18-16.
Pin 6 in the 16-pin connector provides a connection point for the MCOR limit switch to the speed controller.
1. Disconnect the batteries and discharge the controller. See Disconnecting the Batteries – Electric Vehicles,
Section 1, Page 1-5.
2. Place chocks at the front wheels and lift the rear of the vehicle with a chain hoist or floor jack. Position jack
stands under the frame rails just forward of each spring mount. See WARNING “Lift only one end...” in
General Warnings on page 1-1.
3. Disconnect the 16-pin connector at the speed controller.
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687
Figure 18-10 Pin 6 Test
4. Using a multimeter set for 200 volts DC, insert the red (+) probe of the multimeter into pin 6 (green wire) of the
16-pin connector. See following CAUTION. Using an alligator clip, connect the black (–) probe to the B– terminal
of the speed controller (Figure 18-10, Page 18-23).
CAUTION
• Do not fully insert probes into the 16-pin plug. Doing so can result in a poor connection.
5. Connect the batteries. See Connecting the Batteries – Electric Vehicles, Section 1, Page 1-5.
6. Place the Tow/Run switch in the RUN position, key switch in the ON position, and Forward/Reverse switch in
the FORWARD position.
7. The multimeter should indicate zero volts DC at this time.
8. While monitoring the multimeter, slowly press the accelerator pedal and hold the pedal at approximately 20%
of full travel.
9. After a short delay, the onboard computer should power-up (come out of sleep mode).
10. The multimeter should indicate full battery voltage (approximately 48 volts) when the accelerator pedal is pressed.
11. While observing the multimeter, release the accelerator pedal.
12. The multimeter should indicate zero volts when the accelerator pedal is not pressed.
13. If any other reading is obtained, check the following items:
– Continuity of the wires in the wire harness
– Onboard computer for proper operation. See Test Procedure 19 – Onboard Computer Gray Wire on
page 18-30.
– Tow/Run switch for proper operation. See Test Procedure 6 – Tow/Run Switch on page 18-16.
– Key switch and MCOR limit switch for proper operation. See Test Procedure 8 – Key Switch and MCOR
Limit Switch Circuit on page 18-18.
– Ensure the pedal group is adjusted correctly. See Pedal Group Adjustment – Electric Vehicles on page 5-15.
Pin 7 in the 16-pin connector provides a connection point for the reverse buzzer to the speed controller.
1. Disconnect the batteries and discharge the controller. See Disconnecting the Batteries – Electric Vehicles,
Section 1, Page 1-5.
2. Place chocks at the front wheels and lift the rear of the vehicle with a chain hoist or floor jack. Position jack
stands under the frame rails just forward of each spring mount. See WARNING “Lift only one end...” in
General Warnings on page 1-1.
3. Disconnect the 16-pin connector at the speed controller.
4. Place a jumper wire with an alligator clip between the B– terminal of the speed controller (use alligator clip for this
connection) and pin 7 (orange/white wire) of the 16-pin connector (Figure 18-11, Page 18-24). See following
CAUTION.
CAUTION
• Do not fully insert probes into the 16-pin plug. Doing so can result in a poor connection.
5. Connect the batteries. See Connecting the Batteries – Electric Vehicles, Section 1, Page 1-5.
6. Place the Tow/Run switch in the RUN position.
7. The reverse buzzer should sound when the Tow/Run switch is in the RUN position.
8. If any other activity is observed, check the following items:
– Continuity of the wires in the wire harness
– Reverse buzzer for proper operation. See Test Procedure 24 – Reverse Buzzer on page 18-33.
– Tow/Run switch for proper operation. See Test Procedure 6 – Tow/Run Switch on page 18-16.
688
Figure 18-11 Pin 7 Test
Pins 8 and 16 in the 16-pin connector provide a connection point for the Forward/Reverse rocker switch to the speed
controller. The switch provides a +48 volt signal to the speed controller through pin 8 when the Forward/Reverse
switch is in the FORWARD position and provides a +48 volt signal on pin 16 when the Forward/Reverse switch is in
the REVERSE position.
1. Disconnect the batteries and discharge the controller. See Disconnecting the Batteries – Electric Vehicles,
Section 1, Page 1-5.
2. Place chocks at the front wheels and lift the rear of the vehicle with a chain hoist or floor jack. Position jack stands
under the frame crossmember between the spring mount and side stringer, just forward of each rear wheel. See
WARNING “Lift only one end...” in General Warnings on page 1-1.
3. Disconnect the 16-pin connector at the speed controller.
4. Using a multimeter set for 200 volts DC, insert the red (+) probe of the multimeter into pin 8 (brown wire) of the
16-pin connector. See following CAUTION. Using an alligator clip, connect the black (–) probe to the B– terminal
of the speed controller (Figure 18-12, Page 18-26).
CAUTION
• Do not fully insert probes into the 16-pin plug. Doing so can result in a poor connection.
5. Connect the batteries. See Connecting the Batteries – Electric Vehicles, Section 1, Page 1-5.
6. Place the Tow/Run switch in the RUN position and the Forward/Reverse switch in the NEUTRAL position. The
multimeter should indicate zero volts DC at this time.
7. While monitoring the multimeter, place the Forward/Reverse switch in the REVERSE position. The multimeter
should still indicate zero volts.
8. Place the Forward/Reverse switch in the FORWARD position. The multimeter should indicate full battery voltage
(approximately 48 volts).
9. Insert the red (+) probe of the multimeter into pin 16 (blue wire) of the 16-pin connector. Leave the black (–) probe
(alligator clip) connected to the B– terminal of the speed controller. See previous CAUTION.
10. Place the Forward/Reverse switch in the NEUTRAL position. The multimeter should indicate zero volts DC
at this time.
11. While monitoring the multimeter, place the Forward/Reverse switch in the FORWARD position. The multimeter
should still indicate zero volts.
12. Place the Forward/Reverse switch in the REVERSE position. The multimeter should indicate full battery voltage
(approximately 48 volts).
13. If any other reading is obtained, check the following items:
– Continuity of the wires in the wire harness
– Forward/Reverse switch for proper operation. See Test Procedure 23 – Forward/Reverse Rocker Switch
on page 18-32.
– Tow/Run switch for proper operation. See Test Procedure 6 – Tow/Run Switch on page 18-16.
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689
Figure 18-12 Pins 8 and 16 Test
Pin 9 in the 16-pin connector provides a connection point for the Tow/Run switch to the speed controller. The switch
provides a +48 volt signal to the speed controller through pin 9 when the Tow/Run switch is in the RUN position.
1. Disconnect the batteries and discharge the controller. See Disconnecting the Batteries – Electric Vehicles,
Section 1, Page 1-5.
2. Place chocks at the front wheels and lift the rear of the vehicle with a chain hoist or floor jack. Position jack
stands under the frame rails just forward of each spring mount. See WARNING “Lift only one end...” in
General Warnings on page 1-1.
3. Disconnect the 16-pin connector at the speed controller.
4. With the multimeter set to the diode test function (ç), connect the black (–) probe of the multimeter to the light
green wire terminal of the two-pin connector at the Tow/Run switch and the red (+) probe of the multimeter to the
pin 9 terminal (Figure 18-13, Page 18-27). See following CAUTION. The reading should indicate an overload
(no continuity). A diode is designed to conduct current in one direction only. If a diode conducts current (shows
continuity) with the meter probes as described, the diode has failed and must be removed from the wire harness.
See Pin 9 Diode Removal, Section 20, Page 20-14.
CAUTION
• Do not fully insert probes into the 16-pin plug. Doing so can result in a poor connection.
5. Reverse the multimeter probes and note the reading (Figure 18-14, Page 18-27). With the black (–) probe of
the multimeter on the pin 9 terminal of the multi-pin connector and the red (+) probe of the multimeter on the
light green wire at the Tow/Run switch, the meter should read approximately 500 mV, however, a range of
400-600 mV is acceptable.
6. If any other reading is obtained, check the following items:
– Continuity of the wires in the wire harness
– Tow/Run switch for proper operation. See Test Procedure 6 – Tow/Run Switch on page 18-16.
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Red probe to light green wire terminal of Tow/Run switch Black probe to light green wire terminal of Tow/Run switch
Black probe to pin 9 terminal of 16-pin connector Red probe to pin 9 terminal of 16-pin connector
1317 1318
Figure 18-13 Diode Test Figure 18-14 Diode Test – Probes Reversed
Pin 10 in the 16-pin connector provides a connection point for the key switch to the speed controller. The key switch
provides a +48 volt signal to the speed controller through pin 10 when the key switch is in the ON position.
1. Disconnect the batteries and discharge the controller. See Disconnecting the Batteries – Electric Vehicles,
Section 1, Page 1-5.
2. Place chocks at the front wheels and lift the rear of the vehicle with a chain hoist or floor jack. Position jack
stands under the frame rails just forward of each spring mount. See WARNING “Lift only one end...” in
General Warnings on page 1-1.
3. Disconnect the 16-pin connector at the speed controller.
4. Using a multimeter set for 200 volts DC, insert the red (+) probe of the multimeter into pin 10 (tan wire) of the
16-pin connector. See following CAUTION. Using an alligator clip, connect the black (–) probe to the B– terminal
of the speed controller (Figure 18-15, Page 18-28).
CAUTION
• Do not fully insert probes into the 16-pin plug. Doing so can result in a poor connection.
5. Connect the batteries. See Connecting the Batteries – Electric Vehicles, Section 1, Page 1-5.
6. With the Tow/Run switch in the TOW position, the multimeter should indicate zero volts.
7. Place the Tow/Run switch in the RUN position and the key switch in the ON position.
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691
Figure 18-15 Pin 10 Test
8. With the key switch in the ON position, the multimeter should indicate full battery voltage (approximately 48 volts).
With the key switch in the OFF position, the reading should be zero volts.
9. If any other reading is obtained, check the following items:
– Continuity of the wires in the wire harness
– Tow/Run switch for proper operation. See Test Procedure 6 – Tow/Run Switch on page 18-16.
– Key switch for proper operation. See Test Procedure 8 – Key Switch and MCOR Limit Switch Circuit
on page 18-18.
Pin 12 in the 16-pin connector provides a connection point for the solenoid coil to the speed controller. The speed
controller activates the solenoid coil by providing a ground to the solenoid coil at the appropriate time.
1. Disconnect the batteries and discharge the controller. See Disconnecting the Batteries – Electric Vehicles,
Section 1, Page 1-5.
2. Place chocks at the front wheels and lift the rear of the vehicle with a chain hoist or floor jack. Position jack
stands under the frame rails just forward of each spring mount. See WARNING “Lift only one end...” in
General Warnings on page 1-1.
3. Disconnect the 16-pin connector at the speed controller.
4. Place a jumper wire with an alligator clip between the B– terminal of the speed controller (use alligator clip for this
connection) and pin 12 (blue/white wire) of the 16-pin connector (Figure 18-16, Page 18-29). See following
CAUTION.
CAUTION
• Do not fully insert probes into the 16-pin plug. Doing so can result in a poor connection.
5. Connect the batteries. See Connecting the Batteries – Electric Vehicles, Section 1, Page 1-5.
6. Place the Tow/Run switch in the RUN position and the key switch in the ON position.
692
Figure 18-16 Pin 12 Test
7. The solenoid should click when the key switch is placed in the ON position.
8. If any other activity is observed, check the following items:
– Continuity of the wires in the wire harness
– Reverse buzzer for proper operation. See Test Procedure 24 – Reverse Buzzer on page 18-33.
– Tow/Run switch for proper operation. See Test Procedure 6 – Tow/Run Switch on page 18-16.
– Key switch for proper operation. See Test Procedure 8 – Key Switch and MCOR Limit Switch Circuit
on page 18-18.
– Solenoid for proper operation. See Test Procedure 22 – Solenoid Continuity on page 18-32.
The silicon controlled rectifier (SCR), located inside the onboard computer, acts as a switch on the negative side
of the circuit.
This allows the onboard computer (OBC) to control the battery charging current.
1. With batteries connected and using a multimeter set to 200 volts DC, place the red (+) probe on the positive post
of battery no. 1 and place the black (–) probe on the charger receptacle socket that has the black 10-gauge wire
attached to it. The reading should be approximately 36-42 volts.
2. If the reading is zero volts, check the black 10-gauge wire connection to the OBC connector. Check the continuity
of the black 10-gauge wires. If the wires and connections are okay, the SCR has failed. Replace the OBC. If
the reading is correct, proceed to the following step.
3. Plug in AC and DC cords. When the battery charger relay clicks on, reading should be approximately 48 volts
(full battery voltage). If the reading does not rise from approximately 40 volts to full battery voltage when the
DC cord is plugged in and the relay clicks on, check the following items:
– Black wire terminal socket in the charger receptacle.
– Onboard computer gray wire. See Test Procedure 19 – Onboard Computer Gray Wire on page 18-30.
– Red wire at the charger receptacle. See Test Procedure 20 – Voltage at Charger Receptacle Red Wire
Socket on page 18-30.
1. With batteries connected and the DC cord disconnected, pull back on the boot (1) on the gray wire (2) connection
at the OBC (3) (Figure 18-17, Page 18-30). Using a multimeter set to 200 volts DC, connect the red (+) probe to
the positive post of battery no. 1 and black (–) probe to gray 16-gauge wire at the OBC connection (4). Reading
should be approximately 48 volts. If reading is zero volts, replace the OBC.
4 1
693
Figure 18-17 OBC Connections
2. If the reading in step 1 is 48 volts, plug the DC cord into the vehicle’s charger receptacle. The voltage reading
should drop to approximately 4.0 volts before the charger relay clicks on.
3. When the charger relay is activated, the reading should rise to approximately 48 volts.
4. If voltage does not drop to approximately 4.0 volts when the DC cord is plugged in and then rise to approximately
48 volts when the charger relay clicks on, the gray wire circuit in the OBC has failed. Replace the OBC.
1. With batteries connected, DC cord disconnected, and using a multimeter set to 200 volts DC, place the black
(–) probe on the negative post of battery no. 4 (4 x 12-Volt battery set) or battery no. 6 (6 x 8-Volt battery set)
and place the red (+) probe on the charger receptacle socket connected to the red 10-gauge wire. The reading
should be 48-50 volts (full battery voltage).
2. If the reading is zero volts, check the continuity of the 10-gauge red wire from the positive post of battery no. 1
to the receptacle socket.
CAUTION
• Perform the following procedure only on a level surface. To avoid injury or property damage, ensure
that the path of the vehicle is clear before pushing vehicle.
1. Turn the key switch to the OFF position and place the Forward/Reverse switch in the NEUTRAL position.
2. Connect the IQDM to the vehicle.
3. Access the Test menu and select SPEED PULSES by using the SCROLL DISPLAY buttons. The IQDM should
indicate OFF when the vehicle is at rest.
4. While monitoring the IQDM display screen, slowly push the vehicle a short distance (about 3 feet (1 meter)). The
IQDM should indicate ON for speed sensor pulses while the wheels are in motion.
5. If the IQDM does not indicate ON while the wheels are in motion, proceed to the following procedure, Motor
Speed Sensor Test without the IQDM Handset.
1. Turn the key switch to the OFF position and place the Forward/Reverse switch in the NEUTRAL position.
2. With batteries connected, disconnect the three-pin connector at the motor speed sensor.
3. Check voltage at black/white wire:
3.1. Using a multimeter set to 200 volts DC, place the red (+) probe on the battery no. 1 positive post and
place the black (–) probe on the black/white wire terminal socket in the three-pin connector. The voltage
reading should be 48 to 50 volts (full battery voltage).
3.2. If the reading is zero volts, check the continuity of the black/white wire from the 16-pin connector at the
speed controller to the three-pin connector at the motor speed sensor. If the continuity is correct, replace
the speed controller.
4. Check voltage at the red motor speed sensor wire:
4.1. With Tow/Run switch in the RUN position and using a multimeter set to 20 volts DC, place the black (–)
probe on the battery no. 4 (4 x 12-Volt battery set) or battery no. 6 (6 x 8-Volt battery set) negative post
and place red (+) probe on red wire terminal socket in three-pin connector. The voltage reading should
be approximately 15-16 volts.
4.2. If the voltage reading is zero volts, check the continuity of the red wire from the 16-pin connector at the
speed controller to the three-pin connector at the motor speed sensor. If the wire continuity is correct,
replace the speed controller.
4.3. If the reading is below 14 volts, replace the speed controller.
4.4. If the voltage reading is correct, proceed to the following step.
5. Check voltage at the light green wire:
5.1. Using a multimeter set to 20 volts DC, place the black (–) probe on the battery no. 4 (4 x 12-Volt battery
set) or battery no. 6 (6 x 8-Volt battery set) negative post and place the red (+) probe on the light green
wire female terminal in the three-pin connector at the motor speed sensor. The voltage reading should be
from 4.60 to 4.90 volts.
5.2. If the voltage is zero volts, check the continuity of the light green wire from the 16-pin connector at
the speed controller to the three-pin connector at the motor speed sensor. If the continuity is correct,
replace the speed controller.
5.3. If reading is below 3.50 volts, check the continuity of the wires and plug and replace the speed controller if
necessary.
6. Reconnect the three-pin connector at the motor speed sensor. Using a multimeter set to 20 volts DC, place the
black (–) probe on the battery no. 4 (4 x 12-Volt battery set) or battery no. 6 (6 x 8-Volt battery set) negative
post and place the red (+) probe (with insulation-piercing probe) on the green wire between the three-pin
connector and the motor speed sensor.
6.1. Raise one rear wheel off ground. Slowly turn the rear wheel to rotate the motor armature. As the armature
rotates, the voltage reading should alternate from zero to approximately 4.85 volts. The voltage reading will
fluctuate from zero to 4.85 volts and back to zero four times for each revolution of the motor armature.
NOTE: The voltage reading of 4.85 is an approximate reading. The actual reading may vary from 4.50 to 5.00 volts.
1. Place chocks at the front wheels and lift the rear of the vehicle with a chain hoist or floor jack. Position jack
stands under the frame rails just forward of each spring mount. See WARNING “Lift only one end...” in
General Warnings on page 1-1.
2. Disconnect the batteries and discharge the controller. See Disconnecting the Batteries – Electric Vehicles,
Section 1, Page 1-5.
3. Disconnect the three wires that are crimped together from the forward large post of the solenoid.
4. Using a multimeter set to 200k ohms, place the black (–) probe on one solenoid large post and place the red
(+) probe on the other large post. The reading should be no continuity.
5. Connect the three wires crimped together to the forward large solenoid post. Install washer and nut on large
solenoid post and tighten to 77 in-lb (8.7 N·m).
6. Connect the batteries. See Connecting the Batteries – Electric Vehicles, Section 1, Page 1-5.
WARNING
• Keep people and equipment clear from rotating rear wheels. Do not allow persons under the car.
Contact with rotating rear wheels could result in serious personal injury.
7. Place the Tow/Run switch in the RUN position, turn the key switch to the ON position, place the Forward/Reverse
rocker switch in the FORWARD position, and press the accelerator pedal. The solenoid should click and the
multimeter should indicate continuity. If the reading is no continuity, replace the solenoid.
1. Turn the key switch to the OFF position and place the Forward/Reverse switch in the NEUTRAL position.
2. Connect the IQDM to the vehicle.
3. Test FORWARD INPUT.
3.1. Access the Test menu and select FORWARD INPUT by using the SCROLL DISPLAY buttons. The IQDM
should indicate OFF when the Forward/Reverse switch is in the NEUTRAL or REVERSE position.
1. Disconnect the batteries and discharge the controller. See Disconnecting the Batteries – Electric Vehicles,
Section 1, Page 1-5.
2. Remove the three screws securing the rocker switch case to the vehicle body.
3. Disconnect the three wires from the rocker switch. Using a multimeter set to 200 ohms, place the black (–)
probe on the blue wire terminal 3 position on the rocker switch, and place the red (+) probe on the red wire
terminal 2 position. With the switch in NEUTRAL or REVERSE, there should be no continuity. With the switch in
FORWARD, there should be continuity. If the readings are incorrect, replace the switch.
4. Place the black (–) probe on the brown wire terminal 1 position on the rocker switch and place the red (+)
probe on the orange wire terminal. With the switch in REVERSE, there should be continuity. If the readings
are incorrect, replace the switch.
1. Disconnect the batteries and discharge the controller. See Disconnecting the Batteries – Electric Vehicles,
Section 1, Page 1-5.
2. Remove the instrument panel. See Key Switch Removal, Section 20, Page 20-1.
3. Disconnect the orange/white and pink wires from the reverse buzzer.
4. Connect the batteries. See Connecting the Batteries – Electric Vehicles, Section 1, Page 1-5.
5. Place the key switch in the OFF position and the Tow/Run switch in the RUN position.
6. Using a multimeter set to 200 volts DC, place the black (–) probe on battery no. 4 (4 x 12-Volt battery set) or
battery no. 6 (6 x 8-Volt battery set) negative post and place the red (+) probe on the pink wire terminal end that
was disconnected from the reverse buzzer. The reading should be approximately 48 volts (full battery voltage).
6.1. If the voltage reading is correct, proceed to step 7.
6.2. If reading is zero volts, check pink wire continuity and Tow/Run switch. See Test Procedure 2 – Onboard
Computer Solenoid Lockout Circuit on page 18-12. See also Test Procedure 6 – Tow/Run Switch
on page 18-16.
6.3. If the continuity readings are not correct, repair or replace the pink wire.
6.4. If the continuity readings are correct, proceed to step 7.
7. Place the Forward/Reverse switch in REVERSE. Using a multimeter set to 200 volts DC, place the black (–)
probe on the orange/white wire terminal end (that was disconnected from the reverse buzzer) and place the red
(+) probe on battery no. 1 positive post. The reading should be approximately 48 volts (full battery voltage).
7.1. If the voltage reading is correct, replace the reverse buzzer.
7.2. If reading is zero volts, check orange/white wire continuity and connection at Pin 7 in 16-Pin connector.
7.3. If there is no continuity in the orange/white wire, or the Pin 7 terminal in the 16-Pin connector is not properly
seated, repair or replace as required.
7.4. If the orange/white wire continuity and 16-Pin connector are correct and there is no voltage at the orange
wire, replace the controller.
It is possible the onboard computer (OBC) can become “locked up”, causing the OBC solenoid lockout circuit to
malfunction. If this condition is suspected, restart the computer as follows:
1. Disconnect the batteries and discharge the controller. See Disconnecting the Batteries – Electric Vehicles,
Section 1, Page 1-5. See following NOTE.
NOTE: Wait at least 90 seconds for the capacitors in the speed controller to discharge. The capacitors in the speed
controller must be fully discharged in order to reboot the OBC.
2. Connect the batteries. See Connecting the Batteries – Electric Vehicles, Section 1, Page 1-5.
3. Place Tow/Run switch in the RUN position.
4. Test drive the vehicle. If the vehicle functions normally the problem is corrected. If the problem still exists, refer
to Wiring Diagram – Electric Vehicle on page 18-2.
1. Reboot the OBC and drive the vehicle a short distance. When vehicle is first driven, the battery warning light
should illuminate for 10 seconds. See Test Procedure 25 – Rebooting the Onboard Computer on page 18-34.
If the battery warning light does not illuminate when rebooting the OBC, proceed to step 2.
2. Turn key switch OFF, place Tow/Run switch in TOW and place Forward/Reverse rocker switch in NEUTRAL.
3. Disconnect the six-pin connector at the OBC.
4. Remove the wedge lock from the six-pin connector housing that is connected to the vehicle wire harness.
Remove the brown/white wire from the connector plug.
5. Using a jumper wire with an alligator clip at each end, connect one alligator clip to the negative post of battery
no. 1 and the other alligator clip to the brown/white wire terminal socket that was removed from the six-pin
connector plug.
6. Install the wedgelock in the six-pin connector housing and reconnect the six-pin connector plug. Place the
Tow/Run switch in the RUN position and the battery light should illuminate. If the light does not illuminate,
replace the battery warning light assembly.
IQ System vehicles feature a dash mounted battery warning light (above the steering column) that, when the vehicle is
in operation, indicates low battery voltage or, when the vehicle is being charged, indicates a charging problem. The
battery warning light is controlled by the onboard computer.
When the batteries receive an incomplete charge because 1) the DC power cord is disconnected, 2) AC power to
charger is interrupted, 3) automatic charger shut-off occurs after 16 hours of operation, or 4) charger malfunctions, the
warning light will indicate as follows:
COMMUNICATION LOW
DISPLAY MODULE BATTERY
DISPLAY FUNCTIONS:
PRESS AND HOLD
BUTTON TO SHOW
FUNCTION NUMBER.
RELEASE BUTTON TO
SHOW FUNCTION VALUE.
Func1 - Battery voltage.
Func2 - Energy units removed since last charge cycle.
Func3 - Total accumulated energy units removed.
3
Func4 - Last charge termination type (1 = Incomplete,
2 = DVDT, 4 = Normal, 8 = Max. timer).
R
POWER
ON
OFF
Club Car
PART #17075
2500-19200-10300
Figure 18-18 CDM
The CDM can be used to retrieve from the onboard computer four important items of information that can be useful in
troubleshooting the IQ System vehicle. To access one of these items, the item’s corresponding Function Code must be
selected on the CDM. This is done by pressing the Function Button until the desired function code is displayed in the
window. See Figure 18-18, Page 18-35 for CDM features. Releasing the button when the desired code is displayed
will display the data. Function codes and corresponding data are as follows:
• F1 – Battery voltage:
• This displays the battery pack’s current state of charge. A reading of less than 48 volts indicates that the batteries
need to be charged. If a reading of less than 48 volts is obtained immediately after a charge cycle, there may be
a problem in the charge circuit.
• F2 – Energy units removed since last charge cycle:
• If the display reads over 75 (the vehicle battery warning light should be illuminated), the vehicle batteries need
to be recharged before being used again. This data can be used to make sure all vehicles in a fleet receive
equal usage on a short-term basis.
• F3 – Total accumulated energy units removed since initial vehicle start-up:
• This information is most useful in making sure that all vehicles in a fleet receive equal usage over long periods
of time.
• F4 – Last charge termination type (1 = incomplete, 2 = DVDT, 4 = normal, 8 = max. timer):
• A 1, 2, 4, or 8 will be displayed.
• 1 – Indicates the last charge cycle was incomplete and the batteries were not fully charged. Batteries should be
charged again at the earliest opportunity.
• 2 – Indicates a back-up charge program was employed by the OBC to complete the charge cycle if a normal charge
(4) is not possible. DVDT refers to an increase in voltage within a time period. The OBC monitors battery voltage
during charging and will terminate the charge when the voltage does not increase within the time period. A DVDT
charge may be displayed the first few times a new set of batteries is charged, and the first time a set of batteries is
charged after the batteries have been disconnected and reconnected. A problem may exist if persistent DVDT
readings are obtained.
• 4 – Indicates the last charge cycle was normal.
• 8 – Indicates the charger ran for sixteen hours and shut itself off without completing the charge cycle. This means
there may be a problem in the charge circuit.
The CDM also has a low battery indicator, which illuminates when CDM batteries are weak and need to be replaced.
Weak batteries in the CDM may cause the CDM to register inaccurate information or no information.
NOTE: If, by positioning CDM on seat bottom, the CDM is unable to collect the data stream from the onboard
computer, hold CDM approximately 6 inches (15.2 cm) from battery warning light.
NOTE: The values of all four functions can be recalled by pressing and releasing the CDM button.
Use the following chart as a starting point for troubleshooting problems with communication between the CDM and
onboard computer. Contact your Club Car representative for more comprehensive information.
CDM battery
is discharged Failed CDM unit Failed OBC
2500-19200-10301
Figure 18-19 Flow Chart – CDM Troubleshooting Guide
DANGER
• See General Warnings on page 1-1.
WARNING
• See General Warnings on page 1-1.
NOTE: For information specific to the IQDM-P handset programming features, see IQ Display Module Programmer
(IQDM-P): IQ System on page 25-1.
The information presented in this section addresses the Series 2 versions of the IQDM-P and IQDM handsets.
1. Connect one end of the cable to the port located on the bottom of the handset.
2. Connect the cable adaptor to the IQDM cable.
3. Find the IQDM port on the vehicle (Figure 19-1, Page 19-1).
4. Remove the dust cap from the IQDM port.
5. Align the keyed portion of the plug with the IQDM port and connect the plug to the port.
1319
Figure 19-1 IQDM Port
INTRODUCTORY DISPLAY
Immediately after the handset is connected to the vehicle, it begins loading the vehicle speed controller information.
After a few seconds, the screen displays the following menu items:
• Program (IQDM-P only)
• Monitor
• Faults
• Functions
• Information
• Programmer Setup
In the event that the handset does not display any information, or the screen is difficult to read, refer to the
IQDM troubleshooting procedures. See IQDM and IQDM-P Handset Troubleshooting on page 19-18.
MENU NAVIGATION
The NAVIGATION BUTTON (1) is the four-arrow button located on the left side of the handset (Figure 19-2, Page
19-3). This button is used to navigate through and select menus. Pressing the up or down arrows allows the user to
scroll through the menu items. When the box beside the desired menu is blinking, pressing the right arrow selects that
menu item. Pressing the left arrow allows the user to go back one screen (2).
The CHANGE VALUE BUTTON (3) is the button located on the right side of the handset (Figure 19-2, Page 19-3).
This button allows the user to change values by pressing + or –.
The three yellow buttons labeled 1, 2 and 3 are BOOKMARK BUTTONS (4) (Figure 19-2, Page 19-3). These buttons
allow the user to bookmark up to three specific screens for rapid return to those screens. To bookmark a specific
display screen, have the desired screen displayed and simply press and hold a bookmark button until the statement
“bookmark set” is displayed. When it is necessary to go back to the bookmarked screen, rapidly press and release the
appropriate bookmark button. See following NOTE.
NOTE: When going to a bookmarked display screen, be sure to rapidly press and release the button. If the button is
pressed and held for too long, the bookmark will be overridden with the current screen.
The three yellow buttons also allow for quicker input of serial number and car decal number. Press and hold “+” or “-”
while holding buttons 1, 2 or 3 to accelerate a number search.
2
1
1 3
2
695
Figure 19-2 Handset Controls
The following menus are accessible on the IQDM handset:
The program menu allows the user to view and change custom speed controller settings. See Program Menu on
page 25-2.
MONITOR
The monitor menu displays values for certain parameters to facilitate speed controller troubleshooting. See Monitor
Menu on page 19-4.
FAULTS
The faults menu displays all faults recorded by the speed controller since the history was last cleared. Each fault is
listed only once, even if the fault has occurred multiple times. See Faults Menu on page 19-7.
FUNCTIONS
The functions menu allows the user to transfer all current settings from the speed controller to the handset and from
the handset to the speed controller. See Functions Menu on page 19-13.
INFORMATION
The information menu displays the model number, serial number, manufacturer date and software version of the speed
controller. See Information on page 19-16.
PROGRAMMER SETUP
The programmer setup menu allows the user to set the LCD contrast, display the fault history of the programmer as
well as various other information pertaining to the handset such as model number, serial number, OEM information,
etc. See Programmer Setup on page 19-17.
MONITOR MENU
The monitor menu is accessed by using the up or down arrow to scroll to monitor and pressing the right arrow key
to activate the menu. All information in the monitor menu is updated in real time, allowing the trained technician to
troubleshoot the vehicle by monitoring the handset as the key switch is cycled, Forward/Reverse switch is activated, etc.
Since the monitor menu is updated while the vehicle is in operation, the trained technician has the ability to monitor
the status of several components in conditions or locations where a problem with vehicle performance has been
reported. See following WARNING.
WARNING
• The vehicle operator should not monitor the handset while the vehicle is in motion. A technician
can monitor the handset while traveling as a passenger in the vehicle. Failure to heed this warning
could result in severe personal injury or death.
The following parameters can be monitored in real time with the handset from the monitor menu:
THROTTLE
Indicates the position of the accelerator pedal from 0% (pedal not pressed) to 95 - 100% (pedal fully pressed). This
item can be monitored when the key switch is in the ON or OFF position.
HEATSINK
Displays the temperature (in degrees Celsius) of the speed controller heatsink. During normal operating conditions, the
heatsink temperature should be below 85 °C ±5 °C (185 °F ±9 °F). See following NOTE.
NOTE: Improper brake adjustment can sometimes cause the operating current to be higher than normal. This higher
current increases the temperature of the speed controller heatsink.
ARM CURRENT
FIELD CURRENT
ARM PWM
Displays motor armature PWM (pulse width modulation). The range of pulse width modulation is 0% to 100%. When
the vehicle is operating at full speed, the pulse width modulation should be at 100%.
FIELD PWM
Displays motor field PWM (pulse width modulation). The range of pulse width modulation is 0% to 100%. When the
vehicle is in operation, the pulse width modulation will fluctuate in response to the terrain and throttle input.
SPEED PULSES
The speed pulses menu item displays the activity of the motor speed sensor. With the key switch in the OFF
position, the Forward/Reverse switch in the NEUTRAL position, and the vehicle at rest, the handset should should
indicate that speed pulses are off. When the vehicle is gently pushed a short distance, the handset should indicate
that speed pulses are on.
FOOT INPUT
Indicates the status of the MCOR (motor controller output regulator) internal limit switch: on or off. When the
accelerator pedal is unpressed, the handset should indicate that the limit switch is off. When the accelerator pedal is
pressed and the key switch is in the ON position, the display should indicate that the limit switch is on.
FORWARD INPUT
With the Forward/Reverse switch in the NEUTRAL or REVERSE position, the handset should indicate that the
forward input is off. When the Forward/Reverse switch is placed in the FORWARD position, the handset should
indicate that the forward input is on.
REVERSE INPUT
With the Forward/Reverse switch in the NEUTRAL or FORWARD position, the handset should indicate that the
reverse input is off. When the Forward/Reverse switch is placed in the REVERSE position, the handset should
indicate that the reverse input is on.
MAIN CONT
Displays the current solenoid (main contactor) state. When the contactor is activated, the handset indicates that the
solenoid is on. When the contactor is not activated, the handset indicates that the solenoid is off.
KEY INPUT
A password is required to place the vehicle in “private speed mode” (speed setting 4). The speed controller will log
unsuccessful and unauthorized attempts to place the speed controller in “private speed mode”. If repeated attempts
are unsuccessful, the speed controller will permanently lock out access to “private speed mode”. In the event that
“private speed mode” is locked out, the controller must be removed and shipped to Club Car before it can ever be
placed in “private speed mode”. See Code A, Code B, and Code C on page 25-3.
10.3 TRANSAXLE
This menu is reserved for possible future use and has no application at this time.
20+ SPEED
This menu is reserved for possible future use and has no application at this time.
The remaining items that display under the Monitor menu are fault condition occurrences. The display indicates the
fault name and the number of fault occurrences. See following Faults Menu section.
FAULTS MENU
The faults menu is accessed by using the up or down arrow to scroll to faults and pressing the right arrow key to
activate the menu.
Faults displayed in the faults menu will aid the trained technician in troubleshooting the vehicle. Faults displayed often
indicate which components in the electrical system need to be tested.
Since the faults menu is updated while the vehicle is in operation, the trained technician has the ability to monitor
the occurrence of faults in conditions or locations where a problem with vehicle performance has been reported.
See following WARNING.
WARNING
• The vehicle operator should not monitor the handset while the vehicle is in motion. A technician
can monitor the handset while traveling as a passenger in the vehicle. Failure to heed this warning
could result in severe personal injury or death.
SYSTEM FAULTS
The system faults menu displays all of the faults detected by the speed controller since the last time the fault history
has been cleared. The faults displayed in this menu may or may not be currently active. Once a fault has been
detected, it is stored in the memory of the speed controller for display on the fault history menu. Each detected fault is
listed only once, even if the fault has occurred multiple times.
Causes of Faults
Some common causes of faults are:
• Loose, broken, or disconnected wires or connectors
• Failed components
• Improper adjustment or installation of electrical or mechanical components (examples: brake adjustment, improper
MCOR installation)
• Improper wiring of electrical components
As shown above, there are many possible causes for faults to occur, and the speed controller has a programmed
reaction to each fault that is based on the fault currently detected. The technician should be familiar with the detected
faults and the controller’s reactions to faults to ensure a proper diagnosis.
An example of a possible mis-diagnosis of a vehicle due to a fault: If the three-pin speed sensor wire has been
disconnected, the speed controller will detect a speed sensor fault. When a speed sensor fault is detected, the
controller responds to the fault by limiting the vehicle speed to 1/2 of its normal top speed. If the technician reaches
the conclusion that the vehicle is running slowly because batteries are heavily discharged, he has made an improper
diagnosis of the problem.
The vehicle speed controller should be checked for fault codes before any service is performed.
The speed controller, after detecting a fault, will respond in one or more of the following ways:
• A. Reduce vehicle speed to zero by reducing armature current
• B. Reduce vehicle speed to zero by reducing field current to zero
• C. Turn off the solenoid
• D. Cause the vehicle to run at half speed
• E. Gradually reduce the armature current limit
• F. Quickly reduce the armature current until speed sensor pulses occur
• G. Reduce field current and beep reverse buzzer at a fast rate
THROTTLE FAULT 1 A
SPEED SENSOR D
MAIN WELDED D
MAIN DRIVER ON D
FIELD MISSING A, B, C
HPD A
PROC/WIRING A
OVERVOLTAGE A, B, G
LOW BATTERY E
THERMAL CUTBACK E
MOTOR STALL F
MAIN DROPOUT A, C
OPEN ARMATURE A
Depending on the type of fault, the controller will attempt to recover immediately after the condition clears or after the
accelerator pedal has been cycled (released and pressed again).
HW FAILSAFE
The armature drive FET’s (field effect transistors) regulate the armature current. If the speed controller detects a failure
of the armature drive FET’s or circuitry, a hardware failsafe fault is detected.
The controller detects a key switch sro fault and the vehicle will be disabled when the controller is powered up with the
key switch on and after any of the following events have occured: 1. the run/tow switch had been placed in the tow
position, 2. the DC plug of the charger had been plugged into the vehicle, 3. the battery set had been disconnected or 4.
if the vehicle had gone into sleep mode and the accelerator was pressed while the key switch was switched on. The key
switch sro fault detect is by default disabled but can be enabled via the program menu KSI SRO ENABLE parameter.
THROTTLE FAULT 1
If the MCOR (Motor Controller Output Regulator) voltage is less than 0.20 volts or greater than 4.80 volts, the controller
detects a throttle fault 1 fault.
SPEED SENSOR
If the speed controller does not detect pulses from the speed sensor while the controller outputs power (greater than
75% armature PWM) to the motor, a speed sensor fault is detected.
MAIN WELDED
If the speed controller detects that the solenoid contacts are welded closed, a main welded fault is detected.
MAIN DRIVER ON
If the FET that controls the closing of the solenoid contacts is found to be energized when it should not be, a main
driver on fault is detected by the speed controller.
If the FET that controls the closing of the solenoid is not energized when it should be, a main driver off fault is
detected by the speed controller.
If the key switch is turned off or the Forward/Reverse (F&R) switch is placed in neutral while the vehicle is being driven
downhill at full speed for more than 8 seconds, the controller detects a high speed walkaway fault.
If the speed controller determines that the solenoid is not closing as a result of a solenoid coil failure, a main coil fault
is detected.
If the speed controller is operating at a duty cycle of greater than 90% (almost full speed) and the field current is less
than 3 amps, a field missing fault is detected by the speed controller.
HPD
The HPD (High Pedal Detect) fault is detected if the accelerator pedal is already depressed when the key switch is
turned to the ON position. This fault is also detected if the accelerator pedal is pressed when the selected direction
is changed by pressing the Forward/Reverse switch. This fault, when not caused by the operator, can indicate
that the pedal limit switch has failed closed.
PROC/WIRING
This fault is detected if the Forward/Reverse switch is giving a signal to place the controller in forward and reverse at
the same time. This rare fault can be caused by a failed Forward/Reverse switch or improper vehicle wiring.
OVERVOLTAGE
If the speed controller detects that the battery voltage is too high (68.4 to 75.6 volts DC), the overvoltage fault
is detected.
If the battery voltage falls below 34 volts ±5%, the low battery voltage fault is detected by the speed controller.
THERMAL CUTBACK
If the controller heatsink temperature is found to be in excess of 85 °C ±5 °C (185 °F ±9 °F) or below –25 °C ±5 °C
(–13 °F ±9 °F), the thermal cutback fault is detected.
MOTOR STALL
If the motor current is high and there is no movement of the vehicle wheels for a short period of time, a motor stall is
detected by the speed controller. This fault can be caused by an operator holding the vehicle on a hill by depressing
the accelerator pedal instead of the brake pedal.
MAIN DROPOUT
If the controller detects that the solenoid contacts have opened while the vehicle is in operation, a main dropout fault
is detected.
OPEN ARMATURE
If the accelerator pedal is pressed 2/3 to the floor, the armature current is less than 20 amps, and there are no
speed sensor pulses, an open armature fault is detected.
Each vehicle has a password in the form of a unique set of codes used to place the vehicle in “private speed mode”.
If a set of codes has been entered incorrectly, the incorrect password fault is declared. For additional information
on codes, refer to Code A, Code B, and Code C. See Code A, Code B, and Code C on page 25-3. See also
Password Tries (IQDM-P only) on page 19-6.
The max password tries fault is declared when the incorrect password fault has been declared several times. In the
event that the max password tries fault is indicated, the speed controller must be removed and shipped to Club Car
before it can ever be placed in “private speed mode”. See Code A, Code B, and Code C on page 25-3. See
also Password Tries (IQDM-P only) on page 19-6.
FAULT HISTORY
The fault history menu can be useful in determining the cause of a vehicle problem; however, the fault history alone
should not be the factor that determines when a component is replaced. Some faults detected by the speed controller
are not the result of a failed component, and are instead the result of vehicle operator error. If a fault appears in the
fault history menu, the trained technician should attempt to determine when and where the fault has occurred. For
example, if the motor stall fault is present in the fault history, the trained technician may be able to determine the
location on the course where an operator has held the vehicle on a hill by using the accelerator pedal.
After a repair has been made, the fault history should be cleared. This will enable the trained technician to properly
troubleshoot the vehicle in the future, in the event that another problem occurs. It is recommended that the fault history
be cleared in order to avoid the replacement of a component that caused a fault in the past, but has been replaced and
is now functioning correctly. For example, if the MCOR device was disconnected and the speed controller detected a
fault code associated with the throttle, the fault history should be cleared so that any future problem is not diagnosed
incorrectly as a throttle problem. See Clear Fault History on page 19-17.
FUNCTIONS MENU
The functions menu is accessed by using the up or down arrow to scroll to functions and pressing the right arrow
key to activate the menu.
This function transfers all of the speed controller settings (except for “private speed mode”) from the vehicle speed
controller to the handset. This enables the trained technician to “clone” a speed controller. Once the speed controller
settings have been transferred to the handset, the technician can then connect the handset to another vehicle and
transfer the stored settings into the speed controller.
Speed Controller Cloning – Transferring Settings from the Vehicle to the Handset
1. Locate a vehicle that has the desired speed controller settings.
2. Turn the key switch to the OFF position, place the Forward/Reverse handle in the NEUTRAL position, and
lock the park brake.
3. Plug the handset into the vehicle.
3.1. Connect one end of the cable to the port located on the bottom of the handset.
3.2. Connect the cable adaptor to the IQDM cable.
3.3. Remove the dust cap from the IQDM port.
3.4. Align the keyed portion of the plug with the IQDM port and connect the plug to the port (Figure 19-1,
Page 19-1).
4. Scroll to the functions menu and select.
5. Select settings.
6. Select get settings from controller.
7. Press + on the change value button to confirm the operation.
8. The handset will display an “executing...” message for the next few seconds while the controller settings are being
stored in the handset’s memory (Figure 19-3, Page 19-14).
9. When the handset is finished recording the speed controller settings, a confirmation message is displayed
(Figure 19-4, Page 19-14).
10. With the controller settings stored in the memory of the handset, the handset can be used to transfer all of
the desired speed controller settings to any IQ System vehicle or group of IQ System vehicles. See Speed
Controller Cloning – Transferring Settings from the Handset to the Vehicle on page 19-14.
1 3 1 3
2 2
696 697
Figure 19-3 Handset Executing Figure 19-4 Confirmation Message
This function transfers all of the speed controller settings (except for “private speed mode”) from the handset to the
vehicle speed controller. This enables the trained technician to “clone” a speed controller. Once the speed controller
settings have been transferred to the handset, the technician can then connect the handset to another vehicle and
transfer the stored settings into the speed controller.
Speed Controller Cloning – Transferring Settings from the Handset to the Vehicle
1. Perform this procedure with a handset that has the desired speed controller settings. See Speed Controller
Cloning – Transferring Settings from the Vehicle to the Handset on page 19-13.
2. Locate a vehicle that does not have the desired speed controller settings.
3. Turn the key switch to the OFF position, place the Forward/Reverse handle in the NEUTRAL position, and
lock the park brake.
4. Plug the handset into the vehicle.
4.1. Connect one end of the cable to the port located on the bottom of the handset.
4.2. Connect the cable adaptor to the IQDM cable.
4.3. Remove the dust cap from the IQDM port.
4.4. Align the keyed portion of the plug with the IQDM port and connect the plug to the port (Figure 19-1,
Page 19-1).
5. Scroll to the functions menu and select.
6. Select settings.
1 3 1 3
2 2
698 699
Figure 19-5 Confirmation Message Figure 19-6 Confirmation Message
In the event that a mistake was made and one or more changes should not have been made with the handset, the
speed controller settings can be reverted to the original settings from the beginning of the session (when the handset
was plugged into the vehicle). This function is similar to the “undo” command on a PC and will work correctly only
when the handset has not been unplugged and power to the speed controller has not been interrupted.
Resetting All Settings
1. During an active session when the settings need to be returned to the original values (the values that were active
at the beginning of the session), scroll to the functions menu and select.
2. Select settings.
3. Select reset all settings.
4. Press + on the change value button to confirm the operation.
5. The handset will display an “executing...” message for the next few seconds while the controller settings are being
stored in the handset’s memory (Figure 19-3, Page 19-14).
6. When the handset is finished resetting the speed controller settings, a confirmation message is displayed (Figure
19-6, Page 19-15).
INFORMATION
The information menu is accessed by using the up or down arrow to scroll to information and pressing the right
arrow key to activate the menu.
This menu selection displays information pertaining to the speed controller. The information provided from this
menu selection includes:
MODEL NUMBER
SERIAL NUMBER
MFG DATE
SOFTWARE VERSION
PROGRAMMER SETUP
The programmer setup menu selection allows the user to set the LCD display contrast, records the fault history of the
handset, and displays information pertaining to the handset.
PROGRAM
This menu allows the user to adjust the contrast on the display screen. After selecting the LCD–Contrast menu, use
the change value buttons to adjust the contrast for the best readability.
FAULTS
This menu selection displays faults that have been detected within the handset. This faults menu does not pertain to
any faults detected in the speed controller.
The following faults can be detected within the handset:
15 Error in handset
Fault History
This menu displays any faults that have been detected within the handset itself.
Clear Fault History
The clear fault history function will erase the history of faults that are stored in the handset.
INFORMATION
This menu selection displays information pertaining to the handset. The information provided in this menu selection
includes model number, serial number, the date the handset was manufactured, the handset software version, etc.
In the event that the handset does not function as described in this manual, the following troubleshooting guide should
be studied and the referenced test procedures should be performed to troubleshoot the handset.
TROUBLESHOOTING GUIDE
SYMPTOM POSSIBLE CAUSES CORRECTIVE ACTION
See Plugging the Handset into the Vehicle
Handset cord and/or adaptor is disconnected
on page 19-1.
TROUBLESHOOTING GUIDE
SYMPTOM POSSIBLE CAUSES CORRECTIVE ACTION
Disconnect the IQDM cord from the vehicle.
Handset malfunction Wait a few seconds and reconnect the handset
to the vehicle
TEST PROCEDURES
The following test procedures enable the technician to test the IQDM and IQDM-P handsets and the components of the
IQ System vehicle that are related to the proper operation of the handset.
WARNING
• If wires are removed or replaced, make sure wiring and wire harness is properly routed and secured.
Failure to properly route and secure wiring could result in vehicle malfunction, property damage,
personal injury, or death.
1 – Handset Cord
2 – Handset Cord Adaptor
3 – IQDM Jack Located On Speed Controller
1. Using a multimeter set for 200 ohms, place the red (+) probe into one of the terminals on the end of the cord with
the square plug.
2. Place the black (–) probe on each of the pins, one at a time, on the plug on the other end of the cord.
3. The multimeter should indicate continuity on only one pin. If any other reading is obtained, the cord must be
replaced.
4. Repeat the procedure three more times, each time with the red (+) probe inserted into a different terminal on
the end of the cord with the square plug.
The procedure for testing the handset cord adaptor is similar to the cord test.
1. Using a multimeter set for 200 ohms, place the red (+) probe into one of the terminals on the end of the adapter
with the square plug.
2. Place the black (–) probe on each of the pins, one at a time, on the other plug of the adaptor.
3. The multimeter should indicate continuity on only one pin. If any other reading is obtained, the adaptor must
be replaced.
4. Repeat the procedure three more times, each time with the red (+) probe inserted into a different terminal on the
end of the adaptor with the square plug.
1. Turn the key switch to the OFF position, place the Forward/Reverse handle in the NEUTRAL position, and
lock the park brake.
2. Place the Tow/Run switch in the TOW position, disconnect the batteries, negative (–) cable first, and wait 90
seconds for the speed controller capacitors to discharge. See General Warnings on page 1-1.
3. Check the IQDM jack on the speed controller.
3.1. Remove the two screws securing the rear body access panel and remove the access panel.
3.2. Remove the two screws (5) securing the controller cover (1) to the component mounting plate (Figure
19-7, Page 19-20).
3.3. Disconnect the square four-pin connector (3) from the speed controller.
3.4. Connect the handset cord to the handset.
3.5. Connect the other end of the handset cord (without the adapter) (4) to the four-pin connector of the speed
controller (2).
3.6. Connect the vehicle batteries, positive (+) cable first.
3.7. If the handset functions when connected directly to the speed controller, the adapter plug or vehicle wire
harness should be thoroughly tested. See Test Procedure 2 – Handset Cord Adaptor on page 19-19
and See IQ System Troubleshooting, Section 18, Page 18-1..
2 5
4
1
1320
Figure 19-7 IQDM Connector On Speed Controller
DANGER
• See General Warnings on page 1-1.
WARNING
• See General Warnings on page 1-1.
KEY SWITCH
See Test Procedure 8 – Key Switch and MCOR Limit Switch Circuit on page 18-18.
1. Disconnect the batteries and discharge the controller. See Disconnecting the Batteries – Electric Vehicles,
Section 1, Page 1-5.
2. Remove the center dash panel (Figure 20-1, Page 20-2).
2.1. Remove the plastic cap (1) covering the mounting screw (2) on each side of the center dash panel (3).
2.2. Loosen, but do not remove, the screw (2) on each side of the center dash panel (3).
2.3. Insert screwdriver at the top center of the dash between dash and cowl brace. Gently pry center dash out
slightly from under edge of cowl brace.
2.4. Pull center dash out from the frame and disconnect the wires from the electrical components mounted on
the dash panel. Do not allow wires to touch. See following NOTE.
NOTE: Take care to prevent key switch terminals and wires from touching the metal frame around the dash.
7 4
9
6
1. Position the key switch and flat washer (9) in the center dash, then install and tighten the switch retaining nut (6)
to 40 in-lb (4.5 N·m). Install key switch cap (8) in center dash (Figure 20-2, Page 20-2).
1. Disconnect the batteries and discharge the controller. See Disconnecting the Batteries – Electric Vehicles,
Section 1, Page 1-5.
2. Remove two screws (3) that hold Forward/Reverse rocker switch housing (2) to the vehicle (Figure 20-3, Page
20-3).
3. Remove the three wires from the rocker switch.
4. Press in on the locking tabs on each side of switch (11) and push switch out of housing.
11
2
RUN
TOW 7
9
10
3
1321
Figure 20-3 Tow/Run Switch and Forward/Reverse Rocker Switch
1. Press the locking tabs (11) on each end of the rocker switch and push switch into case (Figure 20-3, Page 20-3).
2. Connect the 18-gauge brown, orange, and blue wires to the rocker switch exactly as shown in the wiring diagram.
See Wiring Diagram – Electric Vehicle, Section 18, Page 18-2.
3. Place the switch case (2) in position on the body and install the two screws (3). Tighten to 20 in-lb (2.3 N·m).
4. Connect the batteries. See Connecting the Batteries – Electric Vehicles, Section 1, Page 1-5.
5. Place the Tow/Run switch in the RUN position.
6. Inspect the vehicle for proper operation. See following WARNINGS.
WARNING
• Make sure that the vehicle operates in the forward direction when the Forward/Reverse switch is
in the FORWARD position.
• Make sure that the vehicle operates in the reverse direction when the Forward/Reverse switch is in the
REVERSE position. The reverse buzzer will sound as a warning when the Forward/Reverse switch
is in REVERSE.
• Make sure that the vehicle does not operate when the Forward/Reverse switch is in the NEUTRAL
position.
TOW/RUN SWITCH
1. Disconnect the batteries and discharge the controller. See Disconnecting the Batteries – Electric Vehicles,
Section 1, Page 1-5.
2. Remove Tow/Run switch boot/hex nut (6) (Figure 20-3, Page 20-3).
3. Remove Tow/Run switch (10) and nut (9) from bracket (5).
4. Disconnect the two-pin connector (7) and remove switch.
1. Installation is reverse of removal. Make sure groove on switch is aligned with tang on bracket. Tighten Tow/Run
switch boot/hex nut (6) to 16 in-lb (1.8 N·m) (Figure 20-3, Page 20-3). Tighten Tow/Run switch boot/hex nut
(1) to 16 in-lb (1.8 N·m).
2. Connect the batteries. See Connecting the Batteries – Electric Vehicles, Section 1, Page 1-5.
See Test Procedure 4 – MCOR Voltage on page 18-14 and Test Procedure 8 – Key Switch and MCOR Limit
Switch Circuit on page 18-18.
MCOR REMOVAL
1. Disconnect the batteries and discharge the controller. See Disconnecting the Batteries – Electric Vehicles,
Section 1, Page 1-5.
2. Place chocks at rear wheels and lift the front of the vehicle with a chain hoist or floor jack. Place jack stands
under the round tube crossmember of the frame to support vehicle.
3. Disconnect the two-pin and three-pin connectors (1) from the MCOR (2) (Figure 20-4, Page 20-6).
4. Remove the hex-head screws (3) connecting the MCOR to the frame I-beam.
5. Remove the MCOR from vehicle.
6. Push the drive bar (4) into the hole in the I-beam to disengage it from the accelerator pivot rod (5).
GO
4 3
1322
Figure 20-4 Motor Controller Output Regulator (MCOR) Mounting
MCOR INSTALLATION
1. Insert the splined end of the drive bar (4) through the hole in the passenger-side frame I-beam as shown (Figure
20-4, Page 20-6).
2. Position the opposite end of the drive bar so that the accelerator pedal sits between the two pins.
3. Place the MCOR (2) onto the splined end of the drive bar. See following NOTE.
NOTE: The MCOR is keyed to ensure correct positioning on the drive bar.
4. Insert the alignment pins on the MCOR into the holes in the I-beam as shown.
5. Secure the MCOR to the frame I-beam with two hex-head screws (3). Tighten screws to 23 in-lb (2.6 N·m).
6. Connect the two-pin and three-pin connectors (1) from the wire harness to the MCOR.
7. Connect the batteries. See Connecting the Batteries – Electric Vehicles, Section 1, Page 1-5.
REVERSE BUZZER
1. Disconnect the batteries and discharge the controller. See Disconnecting the Batteries – Electric Vehicles,
Section 1, Page 1-5.
2. Remove center dash. See Key Switch Removal on page 20-1.
3. Disconnect the 18-gauge red and orange/white wires from reverse buzzer.
4. Remove the two screws from the reverse buzzer. Remove the reverse buzzer from the center dash panel.
1. Install the reverse buzzer in the reverse order of removal. Tighten screws to 4 in-lb (0.45 N·m).
2. Connect the batteries. See Connecting the Batteries – Electric Vehicles, Section 1, Page 1-5.
SOLENOID
The solenoid is located on the driver side of the electrical component mounting plate.
See Test Procedure 3 – Solenoid Activating Coil on page 18-13 and Test Procedure 22 – Solenoid Continuity on
page 18-32.
SOLENOID REMOVAL
1. Disconnect the batteries and discharge the controller. See Disconnecting the Batteries – Electric Vehicles,
Section 1, Page 1-5.
2. Remove the rear body access panel.
3. Disconnect all wires from the solenoid (3) (Figure 20-5, Page 20-8).
4. Slide solenoid (3) up to disengage the mounting tabs and remove from component mounting plate.
7
9
8
1323
Figure 20-5 Solenoid
SOLENOID INSTALLATION
1. Mount solenoid (3) onto component mounting plate by engaging slot (Figure 20-5, Page 20-8).
2. Using the wiring diagram, install the wires, resistor (9), washers (8), and nuts (7) onto the large mounting posts.
Tighten nuts to 77 in-lb (8.7 N·m). See Wiring Diagram – Electric Vehicle on page 18-2.
3. Install the blue/white and light blue wires onto the small terminals of the solenoid.
4. Install rear body access panel.
5. Connect the batteries. See Connecting the Batteries – Electric Vehicles, Section 1, Page 1-5.
See Test Procedure 2 – Onboard Computer Solenoid Lockout Circuit on page 18-12, Test Procedure 18 –
Onboard Computer Silicon-Controlled Rectifier (SCR) Circuit on page 18-29, and Test Procedure 19 – Onboard
Computer Gray Wire on page 18-30.
1. Disconnect the batteries and discharge the controller. See Disconnecting the Batteries – Electric Vehicles,
Section 1, Page 1-5.
2. Remove rear body access panel and unplug the six-pin connector (16) at the OBC (Figure 20-6, Page 20-9).
3. Remove the two screws (5) from the speed controller cover (1) and remove the cover (Figure 20-7, Page 20-10).
4. Remove the wire tie (3) securing the speed controller wires to the mounting plate.
13
1
14
14 2
17
16
1324
Figure 20-6 Onboard Computer
1. Install the OBC onto the component mounting plate by aligning the two holes on the OBC face plate with two
holes on component mounting plate. Slide OBC towards inside of vehicle and align heads of self-tapping screws
(17) with smaller part of two holes in OBC face plate (Figure 20-6, Page 20-9). Tighten screws to 60 in-lb
(6.7 N·m). See following NOTE.
NOTE: The aluminum plate on the OBC should face toward the rear of the vehicle. The white potting material side of
the OBC should face toward the front of the vehicle.
2. Attach wire tie so the OBC wire harness is secured to the I-beam.
3. Connect the black 10-gauge wire (8) to the charger receptacle. Tighten nut to 23 in-lb (2.6 N·m).
4. Connect the gray wire fuse holder to the charger receptacle.
5. Connect the black wire assembly (14) to the speed controller B– terminal with the washer (2) and bolt (1) and
tighten to 108 int-lb (12.2 N·m).
6. Plug the six-pin connector (16) from the OBC into the vehicle wire harness
7. Install a wire tie (3) to tightly secure the speed controller wires to the component mounting plate (Figure 20-7,
Page 20-10).
8. Place the edge of the speed controller cover (1) into the slot (2). Press the controller cover onto the component
mounting plate over the speed controller and install the two screws (5). Tighten screws (5) to 60 in-lb (6.8 N·m).
See following NOTE.
NOTE: Make sure that the speed controller cover gasket forms a tight seal between the cover and the component
mounting plate.
10. Connect the batteries. See Connecting the Batteries – Electric Vehicles, Section 1, Page 1-5.
1325
Figure 20-7 Speed Controller Cover
SPEED CONTROLLER
1. Disconnect the batteries and discharge the controller. See Disconnecting the Batteries – Electric Vehicles,
Section 1, Page 1-5.
2. Remove the rear body access panel.
3. Remove the two screws (5) from the speed controller cover (1) and remove the cover (Figure 20-7, Page 20-10).
4. Disconnect all wires and multi-pin connectors from the speed controller (Figure 20-8, Page 20-11).
5. Remove the three self-tapping screws (17) that hold the controller (6) to the component mounting plate and
remove the controller from the vehicle.
S1 S2
2
1
B–
S1 S2
M–
B+
17
2
1
1326
Figure 20-8 Speed Controller
1. Install the three self-tapping screws (17) that hold the controller (6) to the component mounting plate and tighten
to 60 in-lb (6.8 N·m) (Figure 20-8, Page 20-11).
2. Using the wiring diagram, install the multi-pin connectors and all wires as illustrated. See Wiring Diagram –
Electric Vehicle on page 18-2. Tighten bolts (1) to 9 ft-lb (12.2 N·m).
3. Place the edge of the speed controller cover (1) into the slot (2). Press the controller cover onto the component
mounting plate over the speed controller and install the two screws (5) (Figure 20-7, Page 20-10). Tighten the
screws (5) to 60 in-lb (6.8 N·m). See following NOTE.
NOTE: Make sure that the speed controller cover gasket forms a tight seal between the cover and the component
mounting plate.
WARNING
• Make sure that the vehicle operates in the forward direction when the Forward/Reverse switch is
in the FORWARD position.
• Make sure that the vehicle operates in the reverse direction when the Forward/Reverse switch is in the
REVERSE position. The reverse buzzer will sound as a warning when the Forward/Reverse switch
is in REVERSE.
WARNING CONTINUED ON NEXT PAGE
WARNING
• Make sure that the vehicle does not operate when the Forward/Reverse switch is in the NEUTRAL
position.
CHARGER RECEPTACLE
The charger cord, plug, and receptacle are wear items and should be inspected daily. Visually inspect them for cracks,
loose connections, and frayed wiring; they must be replaced when worn or damaged. If charger plug or receptacle
show signs of corrosion or the plug is difficult to insert or remove, the receptacle contacts and plug terminals should be
cleaned with a good electrical contact cleaner or lightly sprayed with WD-40® brand spray lubricant. The plug should
then be inserted and removed several times to ensure ease of insertion, ease of removal, and good electrical contact.
See also the appropriate battery charger maintenance and service manual.
Inspect the receptacle for cracks, loose connections and frayed wiring. See following NOTE.
NOTE: Disassembly of the charger receptacle, for the purpose of removal or installation, is not recommended.
1. Disconnect the batteries and discharge the controller. See Disconnecting the Batteries – Electric Vehicles,
Section 1, Page 1-5.
2. Remove the 10-gauge red wire (4) from the positive post of battery no. 1 (Figure 20-9, Page 20-13).
3. Remove black 10-gauge OBC wire (5) from the receptacle fuse link (6).
4. Disconnect the gray wire (9) from the receptacle at the yellow fuse holder.
5. Remove the four screws (1) that secure the charger receptacle bezel (7) to the receptacle backing plate (8)
and to the vehicle body.
6. Move the receptacle assembly toward the front of the vehicle and tilt receptacle upwards in order for the
receptacle to pass through the hole in the vehicle body.
1. Insert the 10-gauge red wire (4) and the 18-gauge gray wire (3) through the hole in the vehicle body and the
receptacle backing plate (8) (Figure 20-9, Page 20-13).
2. Insert receptacle into vehicle body.
1 2
8 11
9
7
1333
Figure 20-9 Charger Receptacle
The fuse link on the 48-volt electric vehicle should not blow under normal operating conditions; however, if the fuse
link has blown, the vehicle will not charge and the fuse must be replaced. The fuse link (6) is mounted on top of the
charger receptacle in the battery compartment (Figure 20-9, Page 20-13).
Receptacle Fuse Link Removal
1. Remove the fuse link (6) from the charger receptacle (7) by removing the two nuts (2) and washers used to
secure the 10-gauge black wire (5) from the computer and the 10-gauge black wire from the receptacle (Figure
20-9, Page 20-13).
2. Remove the fuse link (6) from the charger receptacle.
Receptacle Fuse Link Installation
1. Insert the two fuse link mounting posts into the mounting holes in the charger receptacle.
2. Place the two 10-gauge black wires in their original positions on the fuse link mounting posts.
3. Install nuts (2) on fuse link mounting posts and tighten to 23 in-lb (2.6 N·m).
1. Disconnect the batteries and discharge the controller. See Disconnecting the Batteries – Electric Vehicles,
Section 1, Page 1-5.
2. Remove instrument panel. See Key Switch Removal on page 20-1.
3. Disconnect the wires at the warning light.
4. Press the two retaining tabs (11) and remove the light from the center dash.
PIN 9 DIODE
NOTE: For 2011 model year, a change inside the controller allowed this diode to be removed from the wire harness.
1. Disconnect the batteries and discharge the controller. See Disconnecting the Batteries – Electric Vehicles,
Section 1, Page 1-5.
2. Locate diode in flex loom near 16-pin connector and cut diode from gray/white and gray wires (Figure 20-10,
Page 20-15).
3. Splice the ends of the two wires together and seal with electrical tape or shrink wrap.
1327
Figure 20-10 Pin 9 Diode
1. Disconnect the two-pin connector (1) at the Tow/Run switch (Figure 20-11, Page 20-15).
2. Connect the main dropout harness (2) between each end of the two-pin connector.
1
RUN
TOW
1328
Figure 20-11 Install Main Dropout Harness
These beads make the vehicle comply with EMC requirements for use in the European Union.
1. Black Ferrite Bead Around White, Green, Orange, and Blue Wires Close To Motor
2. Grey Ferrite Bead In Looped Orange and Blue Wires Near Black Ferrite Bead (1)
3. Black Ferrite Bead Around White, Green, Orange, and Blue Wires Just Past Looped Orange and Blue Wires
4. Black Ferrite Bead Around Main Wire Harness Near Contoller
5. Black Ferrite Bead Around Yellow and Black Wires Near B- Accessory Terminal Block
6. Make sure both field wires (blue and orange) and both armature wires (green and white) are tie wrapped to the frame away from the
motor housing.
1370
Figure 20-12 Ferrite Bead Placement For DS IQ System
DC/DC CONVERTER
1. Disconnect the batteries and discharge the controller. See Disconnecting the Batteries – Electric Vehicles
on page 1-5.
2. Disconnect the DC/DC converter three pin (3) and two pin (4) plugs from the wire harness (5).
3. Remove the two locknuts (2) securing the DC/DC converter (1) to the frame and remove converter.
1.
2. Connect the batteries. See Connecting the Batteries – Electric Vehicles on page 1-5.
3. Install the DC/DC converter (1) to the frame and secure with locknuts (2). Tighten locknuts (2) to 65 in-lb (7.3 N·m).
4. Connect the three pin (3) and the two pin plugs (4) of the wire harness (5) to the DC/DC converter (1) leads.
DANGER
• See General Warnings on page 1-1.
WARNING
• See General Warnings on page 1-1.
DANGER
• Battery – Explosive gases! Do not smoke. Keep sparks and flames away from the vehicle and service
area. Ventilate when charging or operating vehicle in an enclosed area. Wear a full face shield and
rubber gloves when working on or near batteries.
• Charge batteries in a well-ventilated area only. Batteries emit hydrogen while being charged. Hydrogen
is an explosive gas and must never exceed a level of 2% of the air.
• Battery – Poison! Contains acid! Causes severe burns. Avoid contact with skin, eyes, or clothing.
Antidotes:
WARNING
• Wear safety glasses or approved eye protection when servicing the vehicle or battery charger. Wear a
full face shield and rubber gloves when working on or near batteries.
• Use insulated tools when working near batteries or electrical connections. Use extreme caution to
avoid shorting of components or wiring.
• Ensure battery connections are clean and properly tightened. See Battery Care on page 21-13.
CAUTION
• On all electric vehicles, turn off all accessories before charging batteries.
NOTE: Recycle or dispose of discarded batteries in accordance with local, state, and federal regulations.
GENERAL INFORMATION
The batteries supplied with an electric vehicle are different from those supplied with an automobile. The outward
appearance of these two batteries is similar, but the operating characteristics are very different. The electric vehicle
battery is a deep-cycle battery, and the automotive battery is a “starting, lighting and ignition” (SLI) battery. They
should never be substituted for one another.
Any reading below 9.3 volts and not All readings above 9.3V and
within 0.7V
.
All readings below 9.3V but within 0.7V
within 0.7 volts of those batteries
above 9.3 volts, replace battery
.
No apparent problems.
Replace any battery with a variation Entire battery set with specific gravity
of more than 50 points of specific gravity readings below 1.250 is being
between cells or has a cell with no consistently undercharged.
reading at all. Evaluate charging practices. Discharge T est
716
Figure 21-1 Battery Troubleshooting Chart
Four tests have been developed to help diagnose problems with batteries that have not performed as expected.
Because each test becomes progressively more detailed and time-consuming, begin with the first test and follow
through with the other tests until the problem has been identified as outlined in the Battery Troubleshooting Chart
(Figure 21-1, Page 21-2).
The easiest way to monitor the condition of a vehicle’s batteries is simply to observe the reading on the battery charger
ammeter at the end of the charge cycle. After a full charge, disconnect the charger DC plug, wait 20 to 30 seconds and
reconnect the charger DC plug. The ammeter needle will jump to 15 amps or more and then taper to below 6 amps
within 10 to 20 minutes, indicating sound, fully charged batteries.
Continued poor performance may indicate a problem in the vehicle electrical system, brakes or battery charger. If the
problem is not found in the vehicle or charging system, proceed to the on-charge voltage test. Batteries that remain at
8 amps or higher should be tested further using the on-charge voltage test.
When the batteries are fully charged, disconnect the charger DC plug. Wait 20 to 30 seconds and reconnect the DC
plug to restart the charger. After 5 minutes, use a multimeter to check and record the voltage of the battery set as
well as the individual batteries. Set the multimeter to 200 volts DC. Place the red (+) probe on the positive (+) post of
battery no. 1 and the black (–) probe on the negative (–) post of battery no. 4 (Figure 1-1, Page 1-4). Record reading.
Then set multimeter to 20 volts DC and place the red (+) probe on the positive (+) post and the black (–) probe at the
negative (–) post of each battery. Record the readings.
The on-charge voltage for the set should be between 56.0 volts and 63.0 volts depending on the age and state of
charge of the batteries being tested. If individual batteries read above 14.0 volts and are within 1.0 volts of each other,
go to the hydrometer test. If any battery reads below 14.0 volts and not within 1.0 volts of those batteries above
14.0 volts, replace battery. If readings are below 14.0 volts but within 1.0 volts of each other, the batteries are old.
Old batteries may have enough capacity left to last several more months. Go to hydrometer test. See Battery
Troubleshooting Chart on page 21-2 and the examples on the following pages.
HYDROMETER TEST
A hydrometer measures the specific gravity of the battery’s electrolyte. The higher the specific gravity, the higher the
state of charge of the batteries. A fully charged battery should read between 1.250 and 1.280 at 80 °F (26.7 °C). Never
add acid to batteries to obtain a higher specific gravity.
Performing the Hydrometer Test
1. Be sure batteries have sufficient electrolyte to cover plates by approximately 1/2 inch (13 mm) and are fully
charged prior to beginning test. If water must be added, recharge the batteries before performing the hydrometer
test. See following CAUTION.
CAUTION
• Do not allow battery acid from battery caps or hydrometer to drip onto the front or rear body of the
vehicle. Battery acid will cause permanent damage. Wash immediately.
2. Remove the vent cap. Using a battery thermometer (CC P/N 1011767), record electrolyte temperature of the
no. 2 cell.
3. Squeeze the rubber bulb of the hydrometer and insert into the cell. Slowly release the bulb, drawing electrolyte
up into the glass tube of the hydrometer.
4. When the float rises off the bottom, adjust the electrolyte level so that the float rides free of the bottom but does
not strike the top of the glass tube. Remove the hydrometer from the cell and release the pressure from the bulb.
5. Hold the hydrometer vertically, ensuring that the float is not touching the sides of the barrel. Hold the hydrometer
at eye level and read the scale at the level of electrolyte (Figure 21-2, Page 21-4).
6. Record the reading and return the electrolyte to the cell from which it was taken. Replace vent cap.
7. Repeat steps 2 through 6 on all cells.
Hydrometer Calibration
Most hydrometers are calibrated to read correctly at 80 °F (26.7 °C). The readings obtained as described above must
be corrected for temperature. For each 10 °F (5.6 °C) above 80 °F (26.7 °C), add 0.004 to the reading. For each 10 °F
(5.6 °C) below 80 °F (26.7 °C), subtract 0.004 from the reading.
20
40
1.250
60
80
1.280
13 00
717
Figure 21-2 Hydrometer Test
APPROXIMATE
SPECIFIC GRAVITY (TEMPERATURE CORRECTED)
STATE OF CHARGE
1.250-1.280 100%
1.220-1.240 75%
1.190-1.210 50%
1.160-1.180 25%
DISCHARGE TEST
If the previous tests have failed to identify the problem, conduct a discharge test. The discharge test comes closest
to simulating actual vehicle operating conditions by continuously drawing current from the batteries until voltage
drops to 42.0 volts.
The discharge test is the hardest test on the batteries and the most time-consuming to perform. Use the battery
discharge tester (CC P/N 101831901).
Performing the Discharge Test
1. Be sure the batteries are fully charged and that the electrolyte level is correct in all cells.
2. Connect the tester leads to the positive (+) post of battery no.1 and negative (–) post of battery no. 4 (Figure
21-3, Page 21-5).
1 (+)
TER
TES
S
O
P
G
E
N
1
N
E
G
P
O
S
2
N
E
S
G
O
P
P
O
2
G
S
E
N
(–) 3
4
1329
Figure 21-3 Battery Discharge Test
3. Check and record the electrolyte temperature of the battery packs. Check cell no. 2 (second cell from positive
post) in each battery.
4. Reset discharge machine and turn the tester ON.
5. When the batteries have been discharging for approximately 60 minutes, set the discharge machine to function 3
and check battery set voltage. Check voltage every 10 minutes throughout the rest of the test. As soon as the
battery set voltage reaches 0.5 volts above the shut-off point (42.0 volts), use a multimeter to measure individual
battery voltages. Measure and record the voltage of each battery to the nearest 0.01 volt. See following NOTE.
NOTE: The tester will shut off automatically when shut-off voltage is reached.
10.60 V 10.60 V 10.83 V 9.75 V Battery no. 4 is near end of useful life
10.8 V 10.8 V 10.01 V 9.41 V Battery nos. 3 and 4 are near end of useful life
3. In general, battery sets that discharge in less than 60 minutes at 78 °F (25.6 °C) on the discharge test will
typically not hold a charge for an entire work shift. However, discharge time is dependent on the electrolyte
temperature. The table shown gives the discharge times, at various temperatures, of a set of batteries that
delivers 62 minutes at 80 °F (26.7 °C).
ELECTROLYTE DISCHARGE TIME TO ELECTROLYTE DISCHARGE TIME TO
TEMPERATURE SHUT-OFF POINT TEMPERATURE SHUT-OFF POINT
40-49 °F 85-89 °F
40 Minutes 64 Minutes
(4-9 °C) (29-32 °C)
50-59 °F 89-99 °F
45 Minutes 66 Minutes
(10-15 °C) (32-37 °C)
60-64 °F 100-109 °F
50 Minutes 68 Minutes
(16-18 °C) (38-43 °C)
65-69 °F 110-119 °F
54 Minutes 70 Minutes
(18-21 °C) (43-48 °C)
70-74 °F 120-129 °F
57 Minutes 72 Minutes
(21-23 °C) (49-54 °C)
75-79 °F 130-150 °F
60 Minutes 74 Minutes
(24-26 °C) (54-66 °C)
80-84 °F
62 Minutes ***** *****
(27-29 °C)
Example 1
Vehicle no. 68 was suspected of having a bad battery due to its performance. As a result, the battery charger test
was performed. After a full charge, the battery charger ammeter read 8.0 amps. Next, the on-charge voltage test
was performed and the following results were recorded:
BATTERY NO. 1 2 3 4
On-Charge Voltage 15.22 V 15.90 V 14.70* V 15.24 V
*Battery no. 3 appears suspect. Battery nos. 1 and 4 are also suspect. Next, a hydrometer test should be conducted
on all batteries.
*After the hydrometer test, it appears that battery no. 1 is the problem. Next, the discharge test was performed.
*After a discharge test which lasted 45 minutes, battery no. 1 is clearly shown to be the problem. Battery no. 4 should
be watched a little more closely but appears to be okay. Battery no. 1 should be replaced with a battery that has about
the same age and usage as the other batteries in the set.
Example 2
Vehicle no. 70 was also suspected of having a bad battery due to its performance. The battery charger test showed
7.0 amps after a full charge. After confirming there were no problems with the electrical system, charger or brakes, the
on-charge voltage was recorded as follows:
BATTERY NO. 1 2 3 4
On-Charge Voltage 15.72 V 14.66* V 15.80 V 15.85 V
*Battery no. 2 was immediately suspected as the problem. After checking battery no. 2 with a hydrometer, it was
discovered that the negative post cell was completely dead. Battery no. 2 should be replaced with a battery that has
the same age and usage as the other batteries in the set.
Four tests have been developed to help diagnose problems with batteries that have not performed as expected.
Because each test becomes progressively more detailed and time-consuming, begin with the first test and follow
through with the other tests until the problem has been identified as outlined in the Battery Troubleshooting Chart
(Figure 21-1, Page 21-2).
The easiest way to monitor the condition of a vehicle’s batteries is simply to observe the reading on the battery charger
ammeter at the end of the charge cycle. After a full charge, disconnect the charger DC plug, wait 20 to 30 seconds and
reconnect the charger DC plug. The ammeter needle will jump to 15 amps or more and then taper to below 6 amps
within 10 to 20 minutes, indicating sound, fully charged batteries.
Continued poor performance may indicate a problem in the vehicle electrical system, brakes or battery charger. If the
problem is not found in the vehicle or charging system, proceed to the on-charge voltage test. Batteries that remain at
8 amps or higher should be tested further using the on-charge voltage test.
When the batteries are fully charged, disconnect the charger DC plug. Wait 20 to 30 seconds and reconnect the DC
plug to restart the charger. After 5 minutes, use a multimeter to check and record the voltage of the battery set as
well as the individual batteries. Set the multimeter to 200 volts DC. Place the red (+) probe on the positive (+) post of
battery no. 1 and the black (–) probe on the negative (–) post of battery no. 6. Record reading. Then set multimeter to
20 volts DC and place the red (+) probe on the positive (+) post and the black (–) probe at the negative (–) post of
each battery. Record the readings.
The on-charge voltage for the set should be between 56.0 volts and 63.0 volts depending on the age and state of
charge of the batteries being tested. If individual batteries read above 7.0 volts and are within 0.5 volts of each
other, go to the hydrometer test. If any battery reads below 7.0 volts and not within 0.5 volts of those batteries
above 7.0 volts, replace battery. If readings are below 7.0 volts but within 0.5 volts of each other, the batteries are
old. Old batteries may have enough capacity left to last several more months. Go to hydrometer test. See Battery
Troubleshooting Chart on page 21-2 and the examples on the following pages.
HYDROMETER TEST
A hydrometer measures the specific gravity of the battery’s electrolyte. The higher the specific gravity, the higher the
state of charge of the batteries. A fully charged battery should read between 1.250 and 1.280 at 80 °F (26.7 °C). Never
add acid to batteries to obtain a higher specific gravity.
Performing the Hydrometer Test
1. Be sure batteries have sufficient electrolyte to cover plates by approximately 1/2 inch (13 mm) and are fully
charged prior to beginning test. If water must be added, recharge the batteries before performing the hydrometer
test. See following CAUTION.
CAUTION
• Do not allow battery acid from battery caps or hydrometer to drip onto the front or rear body of the
vehicle. Battery acid will cause permanent damage. Wash immediately.
2. Remove the vent cap. Using a battery thermometer (CC P/N 1011767), record electrolyte temperature of the
no. 2 cell.
3. Squeeze the rubber bulb of the hydrometer and insert into the cell. Slowly release the bulb, drawing electrolyte
up into the glass tube of the hydrometer.
4. When the float rises off the bottom, adjust the electrolyte level so that the float rides free of the bottom but does
not strike the top of the glass tube. Remove the hydrometer from the cell and release the pressure from the bulb.
5. Hold the hydrometer vertically, ensuring that the float is not touching the sides of the barrel. Hold the hydrometer
at eye level and read the scale at the level of electrolyte (Figure 21-4, Page 21-9).
6. Record the reading and return the electrolyte to the cell from which it was taken. Replace vent cap.
7. Repeat steps 2 through 6 on all cells.
Hydrometer Calibration
Most hydrometers are calibrated to read correctly at 80 °F (26.7 °C). The readings obtained as described above must
be corrected for temperature. For each 10 °F (5.6 °C) above 80 °F (26.7 °C), add 0.004 to the reading. For each 10 °F
(5.6 °C) below 80 °F (26.7 °C), subtract 0.004 from the reading.
20
40
1.250
60
80
1.280
13 00
717
Figure 21-4 Hydrometer Test
Interpreting the Results of the Hydrometer Test
The approximate state of charge can be determined from the following table:
APPROXIMATE
SPECIFIC GRAVITY (TEMPERATURE CORRECTED)
STATE OF CHARGE
1.250-1.280 100%
1.220-1.240 75%
1.190-1.210 50%
1.160-1.180 25%
If the difference between the cells is 0.020 or more, the low cell should be suspected. It may require a catch-up
charge or it may be a weak cell. When the variations between cells reach 0.050 or more, the battery with the low
cell should be replaced.
VEHICLE BATTERY ELECTROLYTE CORRECTION CORRECTED SPECIFIC GRAVITY REQUIRED
NO. NO. TEMPERATURE FACTOR CELL 1 CELL 2 CELL 3 ACTION
Discharged
1.155 + 0.004 1.165 + 0.004 1.160 + 0.004
35 6 90 °F (32.2 °C) + 0.004 Battery –
= 1.159 = 1.169 = 1.164
Recharge
Discharged
1.200 + 0.008 1.180 + 0.008 1.170 + 0.008 Battery –
38 2 100 °F (37.8 °C) + 0.008
= 1.208 = 1.188 = 1.178 Recharge and
Recheck
DISCHARGE TEST
If the previous tests have failed to identify the problem, conduct a discharge test. The discharge test comes closest
to simulating actual vehicle operating conditions by continuously drawing current from the batteries until voltage
drops to 42.0 volts.
The discharge test is the hardest test on the batteries and the most time-consuming to perform. Use the battery
discharge tester (CC P/N 101831901).
Performing the Discharge Test
1. Be sure the batteries are fully charged and that the electrolyte level is correct in all cells.
2. Connect the tester leads to the positive (+) post of battery no.1 and negative (–) post of battery no. 6 (Figure
21-5, Page 21-10).
3. Check and record the electrolyte temperature of the battery packs. Check cell no. 2 (second cell from positive
post) in each battery.
4. Reset discharge machine and turn the tester ON.
5. When the batteries have been discharging for approximately 60 minutes, set the discharge machine to function 3
and check battery set voltage. Check voltage every 10 minutes throughout the rest of the test. As soon as the
battery set voltage reaches 0.5 volts above the shut-off point (42.0 volts), use a multimeter to measure individual
battery voltages. Measure and record the voltage of each battery to the nearest 0.01 volt. See following NOTE.
NOTE: The tester will shut off automatically when shut-off voltage is reached.
1
TER
TES
(+)
3
4
2 (–)
2
5
6
1843
Figure 21-5 Battery Discharge Test – 6 x 8 Volt Battery
Configuration
BATTERY VOLTAGES
BATTERY CONDITION
1 2 3 4 5 6
7.00 7.00 7.00 7.00 7.00 7.00
Excellent
V V V V V V
3. In general, battery sets that discharge in less than 60 minutes at 78 °F (25.6 °C) on the discharge test will
typically not hold a charge for an entire work shift. However, discharge time is dependent on the electrolyte
temperature. The table shown gives the discharge times, at various temperatures, of a set of batteries that
delivers 62 minutes at 80 °F (26.7 °C).
50-59 °F 89-99 °F
45 Minutes 66 Minutes
(10-15 °C) (32-37 °C)
60-64 °F 100-109 °F
50 Minutes 68 Minutes
(16-18 °C) (38-43 °C)
65-69 °F 110-119 °F
54 Minutes 70 Minutes
(18-21 °C) (43-48 °C)
70-74 °F 120-129 °F
57 Minutes 72 Minutes
(21-23 °C) (49-54 °C)
75-79 °F 130-150 °F
60 Minutes 74 Minutes
(24-26 °C) (54-66 °C)
80-84 °F
62 Minutes ***** *****
(27-29 °C)
BATTERY NO. 1 2 3 4 5 6
On-Charge Voltage 10.15 V 10.60 V 9.80* V 10.16 V 10.56 V 10.61 V
*Battery no. 3 appears suspect. Batteries no. 1 and 4 are also suspect. Next, a hydrometer test should be conducted
on all batteries.
BATTERY NUMBER
CELL NUMBER
1 2 3 4 5 6
Cell 1 (Positive Post) 1.200* 1.265 1.300 1.250 1.280 1.260
Cell 2 1.285 1.275 1.290 1.270 1.295 1.265
Cell 3 1.265 1.270 1.275 1.265 1.280 1.275
Cell 4 (Negative Post) 1.275 1.270 1.285 1.265 1.275 1.275
*After the hydrometer test, it appears that battery no. 1 is the problem. Next, the discharge test was performed.
BATTERY NO. 1 2 3 4 5 6
Discharge Voltage 5.44* V 7.33 V 7.73 V 7.15 V 7.43 V 7.41 V
*After a discharge test which lasted 45 minutes, battery no. 1 is clearly shown to be the problem. Battery no. 4 should
be watched a little more closely but appears to be okay. Battery no. 1 should be replaced with a battery that has about
the same age and usage as the other batteries in the set.
Example 2
Vehicle no. 70 was also suspected of having a bad battery due to its performance. The battery charger test showed
7.0 amps after a full charge. After confirming there were no problems with the electrical system, charger or brakes, the
on-charge voltage was recorded as follows:
BATTERY NO. 1 2 3 4 5 6
On-Charge Voltage 10.48 V 9.77* V 10.53 V 10.57 V 10.55 V 10.33 V
*Battery no. 2 was immediately suspected as the problem. After checking battery no. 2 with a hydrometer, it was
discovered that the negative post cell was completely dead. Battery no. 2 should be replaced with a battery that has
the same age and usage as the other batteries in the set.
BATTERY REPLACEMENT
WARNING
• To prevent electrolyte leakage from the battery vents, batteries must be kept in an upright position.
Tipping a battery beyond a 45° angle in any direction can allow a small amount of electrolyte to leak
out the vent hole. Do not exceed this 45° angle when lifting, carrying, or installing batteries. Battery
acid can cause severe personal injury to skin or eyes, and can damage clothing.
• When replacing batteries in the Single Point Watering System, place the battery cap from the new
replacement battery onto the used battery being removed from the car. Important safety warnings on
the battery cap must remain with the battery after it has been removed from the car.
1. Before removing batteries, note the orientation of the batteries and the connecting wires. Disconnect the batteries
and discharge the controller. See Disconnecting the Batteries – Electric Vehicles, Section 1, Page 1-5.
Remove remaining wires and batteries.
2. Visually inspect the new batteries for any damage that may have occurred in transit. New batteries will not deliver
their full capabilities until they have been discharged and recharged 20 to 50 times. To obtain the maximum
service life from new batteries, restrict vehicles with new batteries to one hour of operation between charges for
BATTERY CARE
WATER QUALITY
To keep batteries in good working condition, the purity of water used is very important. Distilled water is quite pure
and is the most common type of water used in batteries. Other acceptable types are deionized water and water from
reverse osmosis. Ordinary tap water should not be used because it contains an excessive amount of impurities that
will degrade battery performance.
Distilled water is produced by distillation, a process in which water is boiled, the steam is collected and then condensed
back into water. This process creates a finished product free of minerals, having left all the impurities in the original
water sample. Club Car, along with our battery manufacturers, highly recommends that distilled water be used in
electric vehicle batteries.
Deionized water is the purest form of water, but it is also the most expensive. Deionization removes all ionizable
particles (organic and inorganic) from water through ion exchange. Positively and negatively charged ions are removed
from the water and replaced with H+ and OH- ions. When these two ions are combined, they form H2O, or purified
water.
Reverse osmosis is a method of removing solids from water by forcing it through a membrane. The membrane
rejects all solids while allowing purified water to pass through. The choice of membrane determines the amount
of impurities that the water may contain.
Water from municipal supplies, ponds and wells usually contain detrimental levels of dissolved minerals and chemicals.
If using tap water, it is important to use an in-line deionizer to remove impurities that can damage batteries and
significantly reduce battery life. If tap water is used without a deionizer, regular water analyses must be conducted to
check for impurities because water companies commonly revise their additives on a periodic basis. The following
chart lists the maximum allowable minerals, solids, and contaminates in parts per million and their impact on battery
performance. Your local water company should be able to perform testing and compare their results to the chart.
If using tap water, Club Car’s Service Parts Department offers two different deionizer systems: one for vehicles
equipped with the Single Point Water System (SPWS) P/N AM1240701 and the other for vehicles without SPWS,
P/N AM10974.
Mineral Content
To keep batteries in good working condition, follow this maintenance program on a regular basis:
1. Keep the batteries clean and free of corrosion. Wash tops and terminals of batteries with a solution of baking
soda and water (1 cup (237 mL) baking soda per gallon (3.8 L) of water). Rinse solution off of the batteries. Do
not allow this solution to enter the battery. Be sure terminals are tight. Let the terminals dry and then coat with
Battery Terminal Protector Spray (CC P/N 1014305). See following NOTE.
2. The battery hold-downs should be tight enough so that the batteries do not move while the vehicle is in motion,
but not so tight as to crack or buckle the battery case. Tighten hold-down retaining nuts to the proper torque.
See step 5 of Battery Replacement on page 21-12. The terminal connections should be clean and tight,
and any worn insulation or frayed wires should be replaced. Tighten battery terminals to 110 in-lb (12.4 N·m).
See following WARNING.
WARNING
• If battery wire terminals are damaged or corroded, replace or clean them as necessary. Failure to
do so may cause them to overheat during operation and could result in fire, property damage, or
personal injury.
3. After use, charge the batteries. The batteries should never be left discharged any longer than absolutely
necessary (do not leave discharged overnight).
4. Water the batteries monthly or according to the watering interval. See Establishing the Watering Interval for
New Vehicles on page 21-15. See Watering Batteries with the SPWS on page 21-18.
CAUTION
• The watering interval must adequately maintain the electrolyte level above the top of the plates.
See Figure 21-6, Page 21-17.
CAUTION
• After checking the electrolyte, fully tighten the battery caps to prevent electrolyte leakage.
2. After the initial six-week inspection, manually check the electrolyte level at least once per year, particularly after
long-term storage or any other period of vehicle inactivity. See preceding CAUTION.
To keep batteries in good working condition, follow this maintenance program on a regular basis:
1. Keep the batteries clean and free of corrosion. Wash tops and terminals of batteries with a solution of baking
soda and water (1 cup (237 mL) baking soda per gallon (3.8 L) of water). Rinse solution off of the batteries. Do
not allow this solution to enter the battery. Be sure terminals are tight. Let the terminals dry and then coat with
Battery Terminal Protector Spray (CC P/N 1014305). See following NOTE.
2. Check the electrolyte level weekly (Figure 21-6, Page 21-17). Add water only after charging unless the
electrolyte level is below the top of the plates. In this case, add just enough water to cover the plates, charge,
and then check the level again. Never charge batteries if plates are exposed above electrolyte level. For best
battery life, add only distilled water. See following CAUTION and NOTE.
CAUTION
• Do not overfill the batteries.
NOTE: A battery watering gun or bottle is available at many auto parts dealers.
3. The battery hold-downs should be tight enough so that the batteries do not move while the vehicle is in motion,
but not so tight as to crack or buckle the battery case. Tighten hold-down retaining nuts to the proper torque.
See step 8 of Battery Replacement on page 21-12. The terminal connections should be clean and tight,
and any worn insulation or frayed wires should be replaced. Tighten battery terminals to 110 in-lb (12.4 N·m).
See following WARNING.
WARNING
• If battery wire terminals are damaged or corroded, replace or clean them as necessary. Failure to
do so may cause them to overheat during operation and could result in fire, property damage, or
personal injury.
4. After use, charge the batteries. The batteries should never be left discharged any longer than absolutely
necessary (do not leave discharged overnight).
SELF-DISCHARGE
Contaminants on dirty batteries can provide a path for a small current draw that can slowly discharge batteries, thus
wasting valuable energy. To prevent self-discharge, batteries should always be kept clean.
Hot weather also has an effect on a battery’s self-discharge rate. The higher the temperature, the quicker a set of
batteries will discharge. In hotter climates, batteries should be checked more often. When storing batteries, keep in
a cool place. See Battery Storage on page 21-22.
ELECTROLYTE LEVEL
CAUTION
• Do not allow battery acid from battery caps or hydrometer to drip onto the front or rear body of the
vehicle. Battery acid will cause permanent damage. Wash immediately.
Add water only after charging unless the electrolyte is below the level of the plates. If the electrolyte level is below the
level of the plates, add just enough water to cover the plates and then charge the batteries. After charging, fill with
water to the level indicator. Filling a battery to the level indicator before charging will result in overfilling because the
electrolyte level will rise during charging and some of the electrolyte may bubble out of the cap. This reduces the
battery’s capacity and corrodes the metal parts around it.
The electrolyte level should be checked weekly to be sure electrolyte is at its proper level (Figure 21-6, Page 21-17).
Never allow the electrolyte level to fall below the tops of the plates because this will cause the exposed part of the plate
to become permanently inactive. For best results, use a battery watering gun to add water to batteries. Check the
electrolyte level more frequently in hot weather or when batteries are old.
2
1
3
17
Figure 21-6 Battery Electrolyte Level
VIBRATION DAMAGE
The battery hold-downs should always be tight enough to keep the battery from bouncing. Battery life may be severely
shortened if the battery hold-downs are too loose. See step 8 of Battery Replacement on page 21-12. Excessive
vibration causes the plates to shed prematurely and shortens the life of the battery. It may also cause acid to leak out of
the vent caps and corrosion to build up on surrounding metal parts. The acid which is lost reduces the capacity of the
battery and cannot be replaced. Battery hold-downs should NOT be so tight as to crack or buckle the battery case. This
may cause leaks which would dry out a cell or cause internal short circuits. See Battery Replacement on page 21-12.
WARNING
• When replacing batteries in the Single Point Watering System, place the battery cap from the new
replacement battery onto the used battery being removed from the car. Important safety warnings on
the battery cap must remain with the battery after it has been removed from the car
CAUTION
• Water the batteries only AFTER charging.
• Use only the water deionizer equipment (P/N AM1240701) to water batteries with the SPWS.
After six-weeks of operation, remove the valves from the batteries and manually check the battery water level to ensure
that the SPWS is not leaving any cells dry. This initial electrolyte level check on all the battery cells verifies that all the
valves in the SPWS are functioning correctly. If a valve fails to open, the cell will eventually dry out. The initial one-time
inspection of all cells will identify any occurrence of a valve that fails to open. If a valve fails to close, it will become
evident due to the cell overflowing during routine watering. Either failure scenario is rare, but should be monitored in the
initial inspection and during routine watering sessions. Replace malfunctioning valves to ensure maximum battery life.
After the initial six-week inspection, manually check the battery water levels at least once per year, particularly after
winter storage or any other period of vehicle inactivity. See following NOTE.
NOTE: For the longest battery life, be sure the mineral contents of the water meet the minimum requirements as
stated in the vehicle’s appropriate maintenance and service manual. See Mineral Content on page 21-14.
CAUTION
• Make sure the screen filter is clean.
• Do not use a longer garden hose than provided with the System (20 feet), as a decrease in water
pressure could overfill the batteries and damage the refill system.
2. Before screwing the hose-end assembly (3) onto the opposite end of the water hose, check the screen filter (4)
inside the end of the assembly to make sure it is clean (Figure 21-7, Page 21-18).
3. Connect the purger (5) to the female coupler (8) on the hose-end assembly (Figure 21-8, Page 21-18).
8
7
3
1 5
3 6
4
2
68 725
Figure 21-7 Connecting Hose with Filter to Water Source Figure 21-8 Checking the Water Flow Rate
4. Completely open the water faucet until the water flows out of the hose-end assembly (3), and note the movement
of the red flow indicator balls (6). See following NOTE.
NOTE: The water flow rate must be at least two gallons-per-minute for the SPWS to function properly.
This step also eliminates any trapped air from the water hose.
5. After ensuring adequate water flow rate, press the grey button (7) on the end of the female coupler (8) to
disconnect the purger from the pressure regulator.
9 10
8
9
726 727
Figure 21-9 Dust Cap Figure 21-10 Connecting Hose-end Assembly to Battery
Fill Connector
2. The red flow indicator balls should swirl, indicating that the batteries are being filled. See following CAUTION.
CAUTION
• If at any time water overflows from the batteries, immediately stop the refill process, disconnect the
pressure regulator from the battery fill coupling, and call for service.
3. When the red flow indicator balls stop moving, immediately press the grey button to disconnect the hose-end
assembly from the battery fill coupling (9), and squeeze the dust cover (10) to lightly secure it to the male
connector of the battery fill coupling (Figure 21-9, Page 21-19).
4. Place the battery fill coupling into the space between the battery bucket and the car body. Leaving the fill coupling
on top of the battery bank or tucked between the batteries and the battery bucket can result in coupling damage.
Turn the water faucet off when finished filling the vehicle(s).
BATTERY CHARGER
The charger supplied with the electric vehicle resolves the most common problems associated with battery charging.
Undercharging and overcharging are prevented provided the charger is allowed to shut off by itself. Also, all cells are
automatically given an equalization charge at low current, which prolongs battery life. Batteries should never be left in a
discharged state, as this too affects the internal components and can reduce the capacity of the battery. The batteries
should be charged every day they are used. However, the batteries should not be charged if they have not been used.
CHARGING BATTERIES
WARNING
• Be sure all wire connections at the receptacle and the fuse link are clean and tight.
• Do not rock or bend the plug. To connect the charger plug to the vehicle receptacle, grasp the plug
handle and push the plug straight into the receptacle (Figure 21-11, Page 21-21).
• Do not pull on the DC cord (Figure 21-12, Page 21-21). Do not twist, rock or bend the plug. To
disconnect the charger plug from the vehicle receptacle, grasp the plug by the handle and pull the
plug straight out of the receptacle.
• Do not connect a charger to the receptacle if the charger cord, plug, or the vehicle receptacle is
broken, damaged in any manner, or does not make a good electrical connection. Fire or personal
injury can result. Have it replaced by a qualified service person immediately.
• Failure to follow these instructions could result in damage to the charger cord, the plug, and (or)
the vehicle receptacle.
• Do not use a charger if:
– The plug is too loose or does not make a good connection.
– The plug and receptacle feel hotter than normal during charge.
– The plug pins or receptacle contacts are bent or corroded.
– The plug, receptacle, or cords are cut, worn, have any exposed wires or are damaged in any way.
• Using the charger with any of the above symptoms could result in a fire, property damage, personal
injury, or death.
NOTE: When temperatures fall below 65 °F (18.3 °C), batteries charged in unheated areas should be placed on
charge as soon as possible after use. Batteries are warmest immediately after use, and cold batteries
require more time to fully charge.
Insert the charger DC plug into the vehicle receptacle. The charger will turn on two to ten seconds later (Figure 21-11).
When inserting the DC plug, align the raised guide on the plug with the guide slot in the receptacle and push
straight in slowly.
Club Car battery chargers interact with the vehicle onboard computer. The computer records the amount of energy
consumed during vehicle use. While the charger is plugged in, the vehicle’s control circuit is locked out, preventing
operation of the vehicle as well as the possibility of consequent damage to the charger and the vehicle.
Once the lockout is actuated, the charger turns on. The onboard computer then records the amount of energy being
returned to the batteries. When the optimum amount of energy needed to replenish the batteries is returned, the
charger will shut off. The control circuit lockout remains activated until the charger plug is disconnected from the vehicle.
18A 43
Figure 21-11 Correct Insertion of Charger DC Plug Figure 21-12 Incorrect Insertion of Charger DC Plug
Only PowerDrive System 48 and IQ System vehicles are compatible with PowerDrive chargers. Other Club Car models
or vehicles made by other manufacturers are not compatible.
As long as the charger is allowed to shut off by itself, the batteries will be fully charged. Overcharging and
undercharging will normally be prevented.
Batteries should be put on charge even if they have been used for only a short period (9 holes of golf or 10 minutes).
The charger is automatic and will turn off when batteries are fully charged. If the charger does not seem to be operating
properly, or if the batteries seem weak, contact your local Club Car distributor/dealer.
The charger cord, plug, and receptacle are wear items and should be inspected daily. Visually inspect them for cracks,
loose connections, and frayed wiring; they must be replaced when worn or damaged. If charger plug or receptacle
show signs of corrosion or the plug is difficult to insert or remove, the receptacle contacts and plug terminals should
be cleaned with a good electrical contact cleaner or lightly sprayed with WD-40® brand spray lubricant. The plug
should then be inserted and removed several times to ensure ease of insertion, ease of removal, and good electrical
contact. See following NOTE.
NOTE: If the warning tag has been damaged or removed from the DC cord, have it replaced immediately.
This may be due to 1) new batteries, 2) hard use, or 3) cold temperatures. A catch-up charge may be necessary when
these conditions are present. On those days when all or some of the vehicles do not get used, check the batteries
for state of charge. Any battery with a specific gravity lower than 1.250 will need a catch-up charge. If the problem
continues after a catch-up charge has been performed, check the battery charger. Refer to the appropriate battery
charger maintenance and service manual. See Section 22 – Battery Charger. .
DEEP-DISCHARGE
Never discharge batteries to the point the vehicle will no longer operate. This will considerably shorten the cycle life of
the batteries, and may permanently damage the batteries. It is possible the batteries will not accept a charge if they are
completely discharged. The deeper the discharge, the harder it is on the batteries. For this reason, it is recommended
that electric vehicle batteries be charged after each use (provided the charge cycle will not be interrupted and the
charger will be allowed to shut off automatically). Placing the batteries on charge after each use reduces the depth of
discharge and prolongs battery life.
When vehicle batteries are new, they do not reach their full capacity until they have been used and recharged 20 to 50
times. If they are excessively discharged early in their life, their effective service life will be shortened. It is advisable to
limit the use of any vehicle with new batteries for at least the first four weeks and then gradually increase their range.
INCOMING AC SERVICE
Make sure the incoming AC line service is sufficient. If circuit breakers are tripping, fuses blow during the night or the
charger does not give the required starting rate when sound batteries are put on charge, an AC line problem exists.
The electrical service to the vehicle storage facility should be sufficient to deliver adequate voltage and current to each
charger with all the chargers turned on. If not, consult your local power company or electrical contractor. Refer to the
appropriate battery charger maintenance and service manual. See Section 22 – Battery Charger.
FLEET ROTATION
Rotate vehicle usage. It is very hard on batteries if the last vehicles in at night are the first ones out in the morning.
Spread the workload evenly, giving all vehicles the same amount of use. This will keep your fleet in balance and will
not overwork certain sets of batteries. See following NOTE.
NOTE: When vehicles are being rotated, the CDM (Communication Display Module) can be a very helpful service tool.
Monitoring the value of function 3 with the CDM simplifies vehicle usage scheduling. See Communication
Display Module (CDM) on page 18-35.
Return the vehicles to the same charger each night if possible. If the vehicles are put in a storage facility at random
and a vehicle dies while in use and testing shows the batteries are sound, then the problem is most likely with the
charger. However, finding the problem charger may prove to be quite time consuming. Numbering the vehicles and
the chargers and returning each vehicle to its designated charger each night can significantly reduce the amount
of time spent troubleshooting a problem.
BATTERY STORAGE
When storing batteries during the off-season or when maintaining a replacement stock, follow these guidelines:
1. Keep the batteries clean and free of corrosion. See Battery Care on page 21-13.
2. Batteries that are in vehicles for winter storage should be left disconnected in the vehicles if the batteries are
not going to be connected to a charger.
3. Fully charge the batteries prior to storage.
DANGER
• See General Warnings on page 1-1.
WARNING
• See General Warnings on page 1-1.
GENERAL INFORMATION
The vehicle is equipped with a 48-volt DC, shunt-wound, reversible traction motor. The shunt-wound motor is designed
for use in IQ and Excel System vehicles only. Club Car recommends that motors requiring major repair be sent to a
qualified motor repair shop; however, there are many relatively simple tasks that can be performed by a technician with
general knowledge and experience in electric motor repair.
MOTOR IDENTIFICATION
There are two types of motors used in these electric vehicles: Model EJ4-4001 and EJ8-4001A. Both have a black
housing. The EJ4-4001 and EJ8-4001A motors are from the same manufacturer and share some internal components
but differ in the following aspects:
The following tests can be performed without disassembling the motor using a multimeter or continuity tester.
Scrape a small amount of paint from motor housing (ground) and use this location when testing motor
terminals to electrical ground.
A1 to F1
No Continuity
A1 to F2
A2 to F1
No Continuity
A2 to F2
A1 to Ground
No Continuity
A2 to Ground
F1 to Ground
No Continuity
F2 to Ground
1. Disconnect the batteries and discharge the controller. See Disconnecting the Batteries – Electric Vehicles,
Section 1, Page 1-5.
2. Disconnect wires from terminals on motor using two wrenches to prevent posts from turning.
3. With a multimeter set to 200 ohms, place black (–) probe on motor housing. Scratch through paint to ensure a
good connection. Place red (+) probe on A1, A2, S1, and S2 terminals respectively. Multimeter should indicate no
continuity between the motor housing and all individual terminals. If readings are incorrect, motor will need to be
removed from the vehicle and repaired by a qualified technician. See Motor Removal on page 23-4.
3.1. An incorrect reading from the A1 or A2 terminal indicates three possible problems: a grounded A1 or A2
terminal, a grounded wire in the brush area, or a grounded armature/commutator. An incorrect reading for
the S1 or S2 terminal indicates a possible grounded S1 or S2 terminal or field coil.
4. If readings are correct, reconnect the motor wires. See Motor Installation on page 23-15.
5. Connect the batteries. See Connecting the Batteries – Electric Vehicles, Section 1, Page 1-5.
1. Disconnect the batteries and discharge the controller. See Disconnecting the Batteries – Electric Vehicles,
Section 1, Page 1-5.
1. Disconnect the batteries and discharge the controller. See Disconnecting the Batteries – Electric Vehicles,
Section 1, Page 1-5.
2. Disconnect wires from the S1 and S2 terminals on the motor using two wrenches to prevent posts from turning.
Set a multimeter to 200 ohms and place the red (+) probe on the S1 terminal and the black (–) probe on the
S2 terminal. The multimeter should indicate continuity. If the reading is incorrect, a possible open field coil or
bad connections at the terminals may be the cause. The motor will need to be removed from the vehicle and
repaired by a qualified technician. See Motor Removal on page 23-4.
3. If reading is correct, reconnect the motor wires. See Motor Installation on page 23-15.
4. Connect the batteries. See Connecting the Batteries – Electric Vehicles, Section 1, Page 1-5.
MOTOR
MOTOR REMOVAL
1. Disconnect the batteries and discharge the controller. See Disconnecting the Batteries – Electric Vehicles,
Section 1, Page 1-5.
2. Disconnect wires from the terminals on the motor using two wrenches to prevent posts from turning. Label
the wires to ensure proper reconnection.
3. Slightly loosen all the lug nuts on both rear wheels.
4. Place floor jack under transaxle and raise rear of vehicle (Figure 23-1, Page 23-4) then place jack stands under
frame crossmember between the spring mount and the side stringer, just forward of each rear wheel. Lower the
vehicle to let the jack stands support the vehicle (Figure 23-2, Page 23-4). See following WARNING.
WARNING
• Lift only one end of the vehicle at a time. Use a suitable lifting device (chain hoist or hydraulic floor
jack) with 1000 lb. (454 kg) minimum lifting capacity. Do not use lifting device to hold vehicle in raised
position. Use approved jack stands of proper weight capacity to support the vehicle and chock
the wheels that remain on the floor. When not performing a test or service procedure that requires
movement of the wheels, lock the brakes.
729 682
Figure 23-1 Lift Vehicle with Floor Jack Figure 23-2 Vehicle Supported on Jack Stands
5. Remove both rear wheels.
6. Remove the nut, cup washer, and bushing from the bottom side of the shock absorber. Compress the shock
absorber (pushing upwards) to move it out of the way (Figure 23-3, Page 23-5).
7. Remove the nuts and bolts mounting the rear leaf springs to the shackles.
8. To gain easier access to the motor, lower the transaxle as low as it will go. If more room is needed, remove the
jack from beneath the transaxle and allow the springs to rest on the floor (Figure 23-3, Page 23-5).
731
Figure 23-3 Lower Axle
9. Remove the bolts and lock washers that secure the motor to the transaxle (Figure 23-24, Page 23-17). See
following CAUTION.
CAUTION
• Do not position fingers under motor when sliding motor off of the input shaft in step 9. Fingers may
get pinched when motor disengages.
10. Carefully slide the motor away from the transaxle until the motor spline disengages the input shaft and remove
the motor from the vehicle.
748 749
Figure 23-4 Speed Sensor Magnet Figure 23-5 End Cap
MOTOR DISASSEMBLY
1. Before beginning disassembly, place match marks on the motor end cap and motor frame.
2. Remove speed sensor and magnet.
2.1. Remove the two screws (25) that secure the speed sensor (10) to the end cap (11) (Figure 23-15, Page
23-12).
2.2. Remove the screw securing the magnet to the armature shaft (Figure 23-4, Page 23-5).
2.3. Inspect the speed sensor magnet. See Speed Sensor Magnet Inspection on page 23-11.
3. Loosen, but do not remove, the two screws securing the end cap to the motor frame (Figure 23-5, Page 23-5).
750 751
Figure 23-6 End Cap Disengagement Figure 23-7 End Cap Removal
4. Orient the motor so that the splined end of the armature is facing down.
5. Inspect the area where the end cap mates with the motor frame. If the end cap appears to be loose where it
connects to the motor frame, proceed to step 6; otherwise, disengage the end cap from the motor frame using
the following procedure:
5.1. With the end cap bolts loose (about 1/4 inch between the end cap and the head of the bolt), place a socket
on the head of the bolt. See following CAUTION.
CAUTION
• Ensure that there is sufficient thread engagement of the end cap bolts before proceeding. Performing
the procedure without having adequate thread engagement could damage the motor frame, end
cap, or end cap bolts.
5.2. Gently tap each bolt, alternating between blows, until the end cap and motor frame become disengaged
(Figure 23-6, Page 23-6).
6. Remove the two end cap bolts.
7. Remove the end cap and armature from the motor frame (Figure 23-7, Page 23-6).
8. Inspect the brush springs for proper tension. See Motor Brush, Spring, and Terminal Insulator Inspection on
page 23-10.
9. Remove the armature from the end cap bearing. See following CAUTION and NOTE.
CAUTION
• Removing the armature from the end cap requires two people: one to operate the press, and another
to hold the armature. Failure to heed this CAUTION could result in personal injury and/or damage
to the armature resulting from an unsupported armature falling after it becomes disengaged from
the end cap bearing.
NOTE: Replacement of the end cap bearing is recommended if the armature is removed.
752 753
Figure 23-8 Armature Removal Figure 23-9 A1 and A2 Terminals
754 755
Figure 23-10 Brush Rigging Figure 23-11 Bearing Retaining Ring
1. Remove the motor from the vehicle. See Motor Removal on page 23-4.
2. Remove the end cap and armature by performing steps 1 through 7 of Motor Disassembly on page 23-5.
Visual Inspection
• Burned, charred or cracked insulation
• Improperly cured varnish
• Thrown solder
• Flared armature windings
• Damaged armature core laminations
• Worn, burned or glazed commutators
• Dirty or oily commutators
• Raised commutator bars
• Worn armature bearing or shaft
A dirty or oily commutator should be cleaned and wiped dry. Abnormalities identified during the inspection can help
determine original cause of failure. Slight roughness of the commutator can be polished smooth with 400 grit or
finer sandpaper. See following CAUTION and NOTE.
CAUTION
• Do not use emery cloth to polish the commutator. Particles of emery are conductive and may
short-circuit the commutator bars. Do not use oil or lubricants on the commutator or brushes.
NOTE: Oil on the commutator may indicate a faulty transaxle input shaft oil seal.
NOTE: Before testing the armature, wipe it clean with a clean cloth. Remove any carbon dust and metal particles from
between the commutator bars.
1. With a multimeter set to 200 ohms, place one probe on the commutator (1) and the other on the armature
core (2). The multimeter should indicate no continuity (Figure 23-12, Page 23-9). If the reading is incorrect,
replace the armature.
1 2
734
Figure 23-12 Armature Test
1. Remove the motor from the vehicle. See Motor Removal on page 23-4.
2. Remove the and cap and armature by performing steps 1 through 7 of Motor Disassembly on page 23-5.
3. Burned or scorched insulation on the field windings indicates the motor has overheated due to overloads or
grounded or shorted coil windings. If the insulation on the field windings is scorched, replace the motor or
the stator shell assembly.
CAUTION
• When checking brush spring tension, do not over-extend the spring. Using excessive force will
damage the spring.
4.4. Replace springs which require a force of less than 35 oz. (990 grams) (Figure 23-13, Page 23-11). See
following NOTE.
NOTE: When installing new brushes, remove and replace brushes one at a time. This method ensures the terminals
and brushes will be properly positioned in the rigging. Refer to Motor Assembly on page 23-13 for brush
installation.
When replacing brushes, replace all four brushes. Never replace only two.
Install the brushes in the same rigging 180° apart from each other.
Brush Inspection
1. Remove the motor from the vehicle. See Motor Removal on page 23-4.
2. Remove the end cap and armature by performing steps 1 through 7 of Motor Disassembly on page 23-5.
3. Inspect the brushes (13) for damage or excessive wear (Figure 23-15, Page 23-12). Replace brushes if required.
See preceding NOTE.
4. Use dial calipers or a micrometer to measure the brush length. The minimum-allowable brush length is 0.62
inches (16 mm). Replace the set of brushes as required. See preceding NOTE.
Terminal Insulator Inspection
1. Remove the motor from the vehicle. See Motor Removal on page 23-4.
2. Remove the terminal insulators by performing steps 1 through 12 of Motor Disassembly on page 23-5.
3. Inspect the insulators (4 and 6) for cracks or other damage (Figure 23-15, Page 23-12). Replace insulators
as required.
NOTE: Replacement of the end cap bearing is highly-recommended if the end cap is removed from the motor. The
following procedure is provided as a guideline for determining general bearing failure.
1. Remove the motor from the vehicle. See Motor Removal on page 23-4.
2. Remove the bearing by performing steps 1 through 14 of Motor Disassembly on page 23-5.
3. Use a clean cloth to wipe the carbon dust off of the bearing. Inspect the bearing by spinning it by hand and
checking for both axial (A) and radial (B) play (Figure 23-14, Page 23-11).
4. Replace the bearing if it is noisy, does not spin smoothly, or has excessive play. Check the bearing and replace if
rusted, worn, cracked, or if there is an abnormal color change in the metal of the bearing.
A B
756 736
Figure 23-13 Brush Spring Tension Test Figure 23-14 Bearing Inspection
Speed Sensor Magnet Inspection
Inspect the speed sensor magnet (24) for rust, wear, and cracks (Figure 23-15, Page 23-12). Replace the magnet
if necessary.
10
3 7
11 23
6 24
5
14
4
25
16
13
12
9
8
16
2
15
20 19 1
22
21
30
18
17
Items 19, 20, 21, and 22: Used only on EJ4–4001 motor
757
Figure 23-15 Motor
Motor reconditioning must be performed by a qualified motor repair technician. The use of proper tools and procedures
is absolutely essential for successful motor reconditioning.
MOTOR SPECIFICATIONS
Any rework must be performed by a qualified technician. Motor service specifications are listed in the following table.
Commutator concentric with armature shaft within 0.003 in. (0.08 mm)
Bar to bar runout should not exceed 0.005 in. (0.013 mm)
Undercut of segment insulator after machining commutator 0.040 in. (1.0 mm)
Armature resistance at 75 °F (24 °C) 0.012 ohms between bar 1 and bar 15
MOTOR ASSEMBLY
NOTE: When installing new brushes, remove and replace brushes one at a time. This method ensures the terminals
and brushes will be properly positioned in the rigging.
When replacing brushes, replace all four brushes. Never replace only two.
Install the brushes in the same rigging 180° apart from each other.
2.1. Insert the brushes into the brush rigging as shown (Figure 23-16, Page 23-14).
2.2. Insert the two terminal posts through insulators (4) in the end cap (11) wall at the A1 and A2 positions
(Figure 23-15, Page 23-12).
2.3. Place external insulators (5) and washers (6) on each terminal post, and secure terminal with nuts (7).
Tighten nuts (7) to 100 in-lb (11.3 N·m). Ensure that the terminal posts do not rotate when tightening
the nuts (Figure 23-15, Page 23-12).
2.4. Secure the brush rigging to the end cap with two screws. Tighten the screws to 25 in-lb (2.8 N·m) (Figure
23-10, Page 23-8).
2.5. One at a time, push the brushes back until they are completely retracted into their mounting slots and the
spring pressure holds them in the retracted position as shown (Figure 23-17, Page 23-14).
758 759
Figure 23-16 Brush Rigging Figure 23-17 Retracted Brushes
760 761
Figure 23-18 Armature Installation Figure 23-19 Brush Setting
3. With the brushes retracted, use an arbor press to press the armature shaft into the end cap bearing (Figure
23-18, Page 23-14). See following CAUTION.
CAUTION
• Make sure the brushes are held back. Do not allow the brushes to support the weight of the
commutator. The brushes can be easily damaged by this weight.
4. Gently press each brush with a small screwdriver until the spring rests on the end of each brush as shown
(Figure 23-19, Page 23-14).
5. Align the match marks on the end cap and the motor frame (1) and secure with two bolts (16) (Figure 23-15,
Page 23-12). Tighten bolts to 130 in-lb (14.7 N·m).
6. Install the speed sensor magnet (24) with screw (23). Tighten to 65 in-lb (7.3 N·m).
7. Install the speed sensor (10) with screws (25). Tighten to 20 in-lb (2.2 N·m).
8. Make sure the armature turns freely. If it does not turn freely, disassemble the motor to find the problem.
MOTOR INSTALLATION
mm 1 2
inch 1/2 1
mm 1 2
inch 1/2
1/8 INCH
3/8 INCH (9.5 MM) (3.1 MM)
741 742
Figure 23-20 Grease on Putty Knife Figure 23-21 Application of grease to Input Shaft Grooves
2.6. Check the chamfer (1) and end (2) of the input shaft to ensure these areas are completely clean of grease
as shown (Figure 23-22, Page 23-16).
3. Install the molded bumper.
3.1. With the flat side toward the bottom of the coupling, install the molded bumper (30) into the motor coupling
(Figure 23-15, Page 23-12). See following NOTE.
NOTE: The motor coupling and the new molded bumper must be free of grease and debris.
3.2. Ensure that the installed bumper is seated at the bottom of the coupling.
4. Install motor on transaxle.
4.1. Slide the motor coupling onto the transaxle input shaft. See following NOTE.
NOTE: The coupling will push any excess grease on the input shaft along the shaft toward the transaxle.
When the motor is pushed onto the input shaft, the motor housing will not bottom out against the transaxle
housing (Figure 23-15, Page 23-12). There will be approximately 1/16 inch (1.6 mm) gap between the motor
adapter ring and transaxle housing as shown (Figure 23-23, Page 23-16).
743 744
Figure 23-22 Clean Chamfer and Input Shaft End Figure 23-23 Gap at Motor and Transaxle
4.2. Loosely install the four bolts (EJ4–4001 motor) (Figure 23-24, Page 23-17), or three bolts (EJ8–4001A
motor) (Figure 23-25, Page 23-17), and lock washers that secure the motor to the transaxle. Do not tighten.
4.3. Begin finger-tightening the bolts (1 and 2) in the sequence indicated. Continue tightening by hand until the
motor is seated in the transaxle housing. See following CAUTION and NOTE.
CAUTION
• Make sure the motor is properly seated in the transaxle housing.
NOTE: Failure to install and tighten the motor mounting bolts in the proper sequence and to the proper tightness may
result in motor noise during operation.
WARNING
• Make sure that the vehicle operates in the forward direction when the Forward/Reverse switch is
in the FORWARD position.
• Make sure that the vehicle operates in the reverse direction when the Forward/Reverse switch is in the
REVERSE position. The reverse buzzer will sound as a warning when the Forward/Reverse switch
is in REVERSE.
• Make sure that the vehicle does not operate when the Forward/Reverse switch is in the NEUTRAL
position.
2 3 2 3
1 1
746 1313
Figure 23-24 EJ4–4001 Motor Mounting Bolts and Figure 23-25 EJ8–4001A Motor Mounting Bolts and
Tightening Sequence Tightening Sequence
DANGER
• See General Warnings on page 1-1.
WARNING
• See General Warnings on page 1-1.
LUBRICATION
There are two plugs located on the lower half of the transaxle housing. The upper plug (21) (as viewed when the
vehicle is on a level surface) is used as a lubricant level indicator (Figure 24-5, Page 24-3). When the vehicle
is parked on a level surface, the lubricant level should be even with the bottom of the hole. The lower plug (22) is
for draining the lubricant. When draining the lubricant, the upper plug should be removed so the lubricant will drain
faster. Be sure the drain plug is installed before filling. See following NOTE.
NOTE: Recycle or dispose of used oil or lubricant in accordance with local, state, and federal regulations.
AXLE SHAFT
Axle Shaft and Oil Seal Removal
1. Disconnect the batteries and discharge the controller. See Disconnecting the Batteries – Electric Vehicles,
Section 1, Page 1-5.
2. Place chocks at the front wheels. Loosen lug nuts on rear wheels and lift the rear of the vehicle with a chain
hoist or floor jack. Place jack stands under the axle tubes to support the vehicle. See WARNING “Lift only one
end...” in General Warnings on page 1-1.
3. Remove the rear wheel and brake drum. See Section 8 – Wheels and Tires. See Section 6 – Wheel Brake
Assemblies.
4. Use 90° internal snap ring pliers to remove the internal retaining ring (6) from the axle tube (Figure 24-5, Page
24-3). See also Figure 24-1, Page 24-2.
5. Remove the axle, retaining ring, and bearing assembly by pulling the axle straight out of the housing.
6. If necessary, remove the axle oil seal and adapter ring.
6.1. Use a bearing puller (CC P/N 1016417) to remove the axle seal and adapter ring from the axle tube (Figure
24-2, Page 24-2). See following CAUTION and NOTE.
CAUTION
• Do not scar or damage the inside surfaces of the tube when removing the oil seal and adapter ring. A
damaged tube might have to be replaced.
NOTE: Do not discard the adapter ring. If the adapter ring is lost or damaged, the axle tube will have to be replaced.
Varying rear axle configurations have been installed on vehicles. If replacing axle tubes, take note of individual
axle tube lengths to ensure proper fit.
6.2. Use a press to separate the axle oil seal (15) from the adapter ring (39) (Figure 24-3, Page 24-2). Retain
the adapter ring and discard the oil seal.
7. Inspect the axle shaft assembly to be sure the bearing and collar have not slipped and are still seated against
the shoulder on the axle shaft.
8. Inspect bearing (5) (Figure 24-5, Page 24-3). If the bearing in a Type G transaxle is worn or damaged, the
entire axle shaft assembly (1 or 2) must be replaced.
1
0
762 763
Figure 24-1 Remove Internal Retaining Ring Figure 24-2 Axle Seal and Adapter Ring Removal
39
15
764 765
Figure 24-3 Axle Seal and Adapter Ring Figure 24-4 Axle Seal and Adapter Ring Installation
37
38
12
11
10
8
3
1
4
20
5 16
24
6
36
14
16 17
39 19
15 16
18 21
23
22
25
32
36
26 13
33
35 15
39
30
31
13
28 8
30 2
27
29
36 3
27
766
Figure 24-5 Transaxle – Type G
CAUTION
• Clean any residual oil from the exposed end of the axle shaft and from the oil seal area prior to
installing the axle shaft to prevent oil from coming in contact with brakes.
2. Install the rear axle into the transaxle. See following NOTE.
2.1. Insert the shaft, splined end first, through the seal and into the axle tube. Be careful not to damage the seal
on the inside of the axle tube hub. Advance the shaft through to the bearing on the shaft, then rotate it to
align the shaft splines with the splined bore of the differential side gear (27) (Figure 24-5, Page 24-3).
Continue advancing the shaft until the bearing on the axle is firmly seated within the axle tube hub seat.
2.2. Use a pair of snap ring pliers to install the retaining ring (6) inside axle tube hub so that it seats against
the axle bearing assembly and into the machined slot in the inside wall of the axle tube hub (Figure
24-5, Page 24-3).
NOTE: If the retaining ring (6), axle bearing (5), or sleeve (4) must be replaced, the entire axle shaft assembly (1
or 2) must be replaced (Figure 24-5, Page 24-3).
2.3. Place a 1/4 to 3/8-inch (6 to 10 mm) diameter rod against the retaining ring and tap lightly at four to five
locations around the retaining ring to ensure it is properly seated. See following WARNING.
WARNING
• Be sure the retaining ring is properly seated in its groove. If the ring is not properly installed, the axle
assembly will separate from the transaxle and damage the axle assembly and other components. Loss
of vehicle control could result, causing severe personal injury or death.
3. If a new oil seal was installed, allow 24 hours before operating the vehicle to allow the Loctite 603 to fully cure.
AXLE BEARING
Do not remove the axle bearing (5) from a Type G transaxle. If bearing is worn or damaged, the entire axle assembly
(1 or 2) must be replaced (Figure 24-5, Page 24-3).
TRANSAXLE
TRANSAXLE REMOVAL
1. Disconnect the batteries and discharge the controller. See Disconnecting the Batteries – Electric Vehicles,
Section 1, Page 1-5.
2. Place chocks at the front wheels and slightly loosen lug nuts on both rear wheels. See WARNING “Lift only one
end...” in General Warnings on page 1-1.
3. Place a floor jack under the transaxle and raise the rear of the vehicle. Position jack stands under the aluminum
frame rails forward of the spring mount. Lower the vehicle to let the jack stands support the vehicle (Figure 24-6,
Page 24-5). See WARNING “Lift only one end of the vehicle...” in General Warnings on page 1-1.
4. Remove the rear wheels, then thread one lug nut onto a stud on each rear hub. This will keep the brake drums
on the hubs.
5. Remove the bow-tie pins (1), brake cable clevis pins (2), and cable retaining E-clips (3). Disconnect the brake
cables (4) (Figure 24-7, Page 24-5).
1
3
5
2600-30000-10369 1400-18100-10243
Figure 24-6 Vehicle Supported on Jack Stands Figure 24-7 Brake Cable
6. Disconnect the shock absorbers from their lower mounts (Figure 24-8, Page 24-6).
7. Disconnect the four motor wires. Use two wrenches to prevent the post from turning.
8. With a floor jack supporting the transaxle, remove lower spring shackle nuts and bolts. Position shackles so
they are clear of springs (Figure 24-9, Page 24-6).
9. If a chain hoist was used to raise the vehicle, lift the vehicle high enough to permit easy access and clearance
for removal of the motor. If a floor jack was used to raise the vehicle, lower the transaxle enough to permit
easy access and clearance for removal of the motor.
10. Remove the three motor mounting bolts (1) (Figure 24-11, Page 24-6) and the motor positioning bolt (EJ4–4001
motor only) (Figure 24-12, Page 24-7), securing the motor to the transaxle. See following CAUTION.
CAUTION
• Do not position fingers under motor when sliding motor off of the input shaft. Fingers may get
pinched when motor disengages.
1330 768
Figure 24-8 Disconnect Shocks Figure 24-9 Shackles
11. Carefully remove the motor from the transaxle. Slide the motor away from the transaxle until the motor spline
becomes disengaged from the input shaft, then lift motor out. See preceding WARNING.
12. If a floor jack was used, pull floor jack from beneath the transaxle and allow the springs to rest on the floor.
13. Remove the U-bolts attaching the transaxle to the leaf springs (Figure 24-10, Page 24-6).
14. Carefully lift each end of the transaxle off its positioning pin (on the leaf spring) and slide the transaxle to the rear
and out of the vehicle.
15. Drain the lubricant from the transaxle and remove the axle shafts. See Axle Shaft and Oil Seal Removal on
page 24-1.See following NOTE.
NOTE: Recycle or dispose of used oil or lubricant in accordance with local, state, and federal regulations.
16. Remove the brake assemblies if required. See Brake Cluster Removal on page 6-9.
3 4
2700-18500-10353 770
Figure 24-10 Leaf Springs Figure 24-11 Motor Mounting Bolts
25
24
745
Figure 24-12 Motor Positioning Bolt – EJ4–4001 Motor
Only
1. To detach axle tubes (14 and 35) from the transaxle housing, remove the bolts (8) (Figure 24-5, Page 24-3).
2. Remove 11 bolts (24) that hold housing together.
3. Pull the halves of the housing (11 and 20) apart. If necessary, tap lightly on the spline of the input pinion (17).
See following CAUTION.
CAUTION
• To prevent damage to the housing mating seal surfaces, use caution when separating halves.
4. Remove input pinion gear (17) by pulling gear out while rocking intermediate gear assembly (19). Lift intermediate
gear assembly and differential gear case unit out simultaneously (Figure 24-5, Page 24-3). See following
CAUTION.
CAUTION
• Do not damage gears. Use extreme care when handling them.
5. Use a bearing puller or arbor press to remove bearings (16) from the input pinion gear. If the oil seal (10) is
damaged, replace it (Figure 24-5, Page 24-3). See also Figure 24-13, Page 24-8. See following CAUTION.
CAUTION
• Do not reuse bearings after removing them. Replace bearings with new ones.
6. To disassemble the intermediate gear assembly, press off together the bearing (16) and the gear (19) (Figure
24-5, Page 24-3). See also Figure 24-13, Page 24-8.
7. Press the bearing (18) off the intermediate gear assembly (Figure 24-5, Page 24-3).
771
Figure 24-13 Intermediate Gear Assembly
8. Disassemble the differential gear case:
8.1. Remove the hex bolts (33) and the ring gear (32) from the differential case (Figure 24-5, Page 24-3).
8.2. Remove the ring gear.
8.3. Separate the differential gear case housing. If necessary, install two of the hex bolts (removed previously in
step 8.1.) into the differential gear unit and, while holding the unit slightly above the work area, lightly tap
the bolt heads (Figure 24-14, Page 24-8). Remove the two bolts.
772
Figure 24-14 Separate Housing
8.4. Remove the differential pin (31) by pushing pin through differential gear case from one side (Figure 24-5,
Page 24-3). See also Figure 24-15, Page 24-9.
8.5. Remove the idler gears (1 and 2) and thrust plates (3 and 4) (Figure 24-16, Page 24-9).
5
7
2
4
3
1
6
8
26
773 774
Figure 24-15 Differential Pin Figure 24-16 Left Differential
8.6. Remove the differential gears (5 and 6) and thrust plates (7 and 8).
8.7. Inspect the bearings (13) of the differential case (26) and replace them if they are damaged (Figure 24-5,
Page 24-3). To remove them, press them off. See following CAUTION.
CAUTION
• Do not reuse bearings after removing them. Replace bearings with new ones.
9. Inspect parts for wear or damage. Any worn or damaged parts should be replaced. See following NOTE.
TRANSAXLE ASSEMBLY
CAUTION
• Do not press against the bearing outer race.
• The housing and all parts must be wiped clean and dry before reassembly.
1. If bearings (13) were removed during disassembly, install new bearings using an arbor press (Figure 24-5,
Page 24-3).
2. Assemble the differential gear case.
2.1. Install the pin (31) (Figure 24-5, Page 24-3). Apply a small amount of oil to all thrust plates and to both
ends of the pin.
2.2. Install the hex bolts (33) and output gear (32). Tighten bolts to 58 ft-lb (78.6 N·m).
3. Press a new bearing (18) onto the intermediate gear assembly (Figure 24-5, Page 24-3).
4. Press new bearing (16) onto input pinion gear (17).
5. Apply grease to the lip of the new oil seal (10) and install the seal using a transaxle pinion seal tool (CC P/N
1014161). The lip of the oil seal should face the inside of the transaxle housing. Make sure the seal is firmly
seated.
6. Install the differential assembly (4), the intermediate gear assembly (3), and the input pinion gear (2)
simultaneously. Be sure all bearings are seated properly in the housing. Rotate the input shaft to check for
smooth gear operation (Figure 24-11, Page 24-6).
7. Install dowel pin(s) (25) (if originally installed) in the transaxle housing (20) (Figure 24-5, Page 24-3).
CAUTION
• Clean any residual oil from the exposed end of the axle shaft and from the oil seal area prior to
installing the axle shaft to prevent oil from coming in contact with brakes.
WARNING
• Be sure retaining ring is properly seated in its groove. If ring is not properly installed, the axle
assembly will separate from the transaxle and damage the axle assembly and other components. Loss
of vehicle control could result in severe personal injury or death.
12. Make sure the drain plug (22) is installed in the transaxle and tightened to 23 ft-lb (31 N·m). Fill the transaxle,
through the level indicator hole, with 22 ounces of SAE 30 API Class SE, SF, or SG oil (a higher grade may also
be used). Install and tighten the level indicator plug (21) to 23 ft-lb (31 N·m).
TRANSAXLE INSTALLATION
1. If using a chain hoist, raise the vehicle and place transaxle in position on the jack stands. If using a floor jack,
lower the jack stands to their lowest settings and place the transaxle in position on the jack stands.
2. Align the center hole in the saddle of the transaxle with the pilot bolt in the leaf spring assembly.
3. Install the two U-bolts, jounce bumper mount (if required), and spacers, lock washers, and nuts. Tighten the nuts
to 25 ft-lb (34 N·m). Tighten the U-bolt nuts so an equal amount of thread is visible on each leg of the bolt.
4. Install the motor. See Motor Installation, Section 23, Page 23-15..
5. If using a chain hoist, lower the vehicle while guiding the leaf springs into the rear spring shackles. If using a
floor jack, raise the differential while guiding the leaf springs into the rear spring shackles. Then raise the jack
stands to support the transaxle.
NOTE: If the motor wires were not tagged when disconnected, refer to the wiring diagram for proper connection. See
Wiring Diagram – Electric Vehicle, Section 18, Page 18-2.
7. Insert bolts through the spring shackles and bushings in the leaf spring eyes. Secure bolts with lock nuts.
Tighten to 15 ft-lb (20.3 N·m).
8. Connect the brake cables using new bow tie pins (1) (Figure 24-7, Page 24-5).
9. Install the shock absorbers. Tighten shock absorber retaining nuts until the rubber bushings expand to the
same size as the cup washers.
10. Install the rear wheels and finger-tighten the lug nuts.
11. Lift the vehicle and remove the jack stands.
12. Lower vehicle and tighten the lug nuts, using a crisscross pattern, to 55 ft-lb (74.6 N·m).
13. Connect the batteries. See Connecting the Batteries – Electric Vehicles, Section 1, Page 1-5.
14. Inspect the vehicle to check for proper operation. See following WARNING.
WARNING
• Make sure that the vehicle operates in the forward direction when the Forward/Reverse switch is
in the FORWARD position.
• Make sure that the vehicle operates in the reverse direction when the Forward/Reverse switch is in the
REVERSE position. The reverse buzzer will sound as a warning when the Forward/Reverse switch
is in REVERSE.
• Make sure that the vehicle does not operate when the Forward/Reverse switch is in the NEUTRAL
position.
DANGER
• See General Warnings on page 1-1.
WARNING
• See General Warnings on page 1-1.
NOTE: For information pertaining to the introductory display, menu navigation, and monitor, faults and function menus,
See Section 19 – IQ Display Module (IQDM) and IQDM-P Diagnostics: IQ System.
The information presented in this section addresses the series 2 versions of the IQDM-P and IQDM handsets.
1. Connect one end of the cable to the jack located on the bottom of the handset.
2. Connect the cable adaptor to the IQDP-P cable.
3. Find the IQDM jack on the vehicle (Figure 25-1, Page 25-1).
4. Remove the dust cap from the IQDM jack.
5. Align the keyed portion of the plug with the IQDM jack and connect the plug to the jack.
1319
Figure 25-1 IQDM Port
PROGRAM MENU
The program menu can be accessed by pressing the right arrow on the navigation button when the square beside
program is blinking (Figure 25-2, Page 25-2). When the program menu is active, use the up or down arrows on the
navigation button to go to the desired item in the program menu. Again, press the right arrow to select the menu item.
Use the change value button to change the values of the selected item as necessary.
The following parameters can be programmed with the handset from the program menu:
1 3
1 2 3
775 776
Figure 25-2 Access Program Menu Figure 25-3 Change Speed Setting
The vehicle’s top speed can be changed by selecting values 1 through 3 (Figure 25-3, Page 25-2). If a value of 4 is
displayed for the speed setting, a special access code has been entered to place the vehicle in “private speed mode.”
A speed setting of 4 cannot be selected with the speed setting menu item. For additional information on speed setting
4, refer to Code A, Code B, and Code C. See Code A, Code B, and Code C on page 25-3.
SPEED SETTING DESCRIPTION VEHICLE SPEED
1 Commercial speed 8.0 mph (12.9 km/h)
FAST ACCEL
Fast accel (fast acceleration) is an option that can be enabled or disabled. With fast accel turned on, the vehicle will
accelerate at a noticeably faster rate. With this feature turned off, the vehicle speed will gradually increase, even if the
accelerator is quickly pressed to the floor. Turn the feature on or off by pressing + or – on the change value button.
PEDAL UP MODE
Three options exist for pedal up mode (motor braking). When the accelerator pedal is released, motor braking will
slow the vehicle to a speed of approximately 11 mph (17.7 km/h) when pedal up motor braking is enabled (option 1 or
2). If pedal up motor braking is disabled (option 0), the vehicle will coast to a stop when the pedal is released. See
following NOTE.
Change the settings of the Pedal Up Mode by pressing + or – on the change value button.
NOTE: Pedal up mode does not affect top vehicle speed. If the accelerator pedal is released when the vehicle is
going down an incline, the motor braking function will activate, slowing the vehicle to the speed setting defined
in the Program menu. See Speed Setting on page 25-3.
PEDAL UP MODE SETTING MODE OPERATION DESCRIPTION
0 Off Pedal up motor braking is disabled
SPEED CAL
The speed cal (speed calibration) menu item allows the user to fine tune the vehicle speed. This feature cannot be used
to increase the vehicle speed. The range for speed calibration is 0 to 10. Each time the number is increased, the top
speed will be decreased by 0.12 mph (0.2 km/h). The top vehicle speed will be determined by the speed setting menu
item and the speed calibration setting. For example, if the speed setting is set for a value of 3 (14.8 mph (23.8 km/h)),
and the speed calibration is set for 5, the total top speed of the vehicle should be approximately 14.2 mph (22.9 km/h).
The code entries are used to place the vehicle in “private speed mode”, speed setting code 4. Each vehicle has a
unique code for placing the vehicle in this mode. A vehicle programmed for “private speed mode”, speed setting 4,
does not conform to ANSI Z130.1 – American National Standard for Golf Cars – Safety and Performance Specifications
because it is capable of speeds in excess of 15 mph (24.1 km/h). For more information on this feature, contact your
local Club Car distributor or dealer.
SLOW PEDAL UP
slow pedal up is an option that toggles either on or off. With the slow pedal up parameter turned off, downhill speed
with the pedal up will be maintained at 11.3 mph (18.2 kph). Turned on, this parameter maintains pedal up, downhill
speed at 10.4 mph (16.8 kph).
The ksi sro enable (key switch static return to off) option toggles either on or off. With this menu item enabled, the
vehicle will not operate if the key switch is on after the car is charged or the run/tow switch is cycled. The vehicle will be
disabled when the controller is powered up with the key switch on and after any of the following events have occured:
1. the run/tow switch had been placed in the tow position, 2. the DC plug of the charger had been plugged into the
vehicle, 3. the battery set had been disconnected or 4. if the vehicle had gone into sleep mode and the accelerator
was pressed while the key switch was switched on. The KEY SWITCH SRO fault detect that is controlled by the
ksi sro enable parameter is disabled (off) by default.
M2 MAX SPEED
The m2 max speed option allows for adjustability of the SPEED 2 speed setting. From the factory, the vehicle can
be set to one of four standard SPEED 2 speed settings. The four speed settings are 11.4, 12.4, 13.2 and 14.0 mph
(18.4, 20.0, 21.3 and 22.6 km/h, respectively). The default SPEED 2 speed setting is 13.2 mph (21.3 km/h). The top
speed of the vehicle can be set between 11.2 to 14.8 mph in 0.2 mph (18.1 to 23.9 km/h in 0.3 km/h) increments.
(The IQDM displays mph as “%”).
fuel filter
installation ...................................................... 14-16
I
removal .......................................................... 14-16 ignition
fuel gauge/hour meter ......................................... 12-24 testing spark ....................................................11-19
fuel gauge circuit ignition coil
testing ..........................................................11-32 installation .............................................. 12-28, 13-9
fuel level sending unit ...................................... 12-25 removal .................................................. 12-27, 13-7
fuel level sending unit testing ............................11-30 testing .............................................................11-21
hour meter circuit inspection
testing ..........................................................11-33 drive clutch ....................................................... 17-5
installation ...................................................... 12-25 drive clutch parts............................................ 17-9
operation ........................................................ 12-24 driven clutch ................................................... 17-13
removal .......................................................... 12-24 front wheel free play .......................................... 7-25
fuel level sending unit ......................................... 12-25 fuel pump........................................................ 14-19
fuel level sending unit testing................................11-30 motor
fuel lines ............................................................ 14-24 armature ground test ...................................... 23-9
fuel pump ........................................................... 14-18 armature inspection........................................ 23-8
assembly ........................................................ 14-19 bearing.........................................................23-11
cleaning and inspection ................................... 14-19 brush .......................................................... 23-10
disassembly.................................................... 14-18 brush spring ................................................ 23-10
installation ...................................................... 14-20 field windings............................................... 23-10
removal .......................................................... 14-18 speed sensor magnet....................................23-11
fuel shut-off valve ............................................... 14-25 shock absorber ................................................... 9-1
fuel tank ............................................................. 14-21 spark plug......................................................... 13-2
disposal .......................................................... 14-22 starter/generator
installation ...................................................... 14-23 armature ....................................................... 12-7
removal .......................................................... 14-21 bearing.......................................................... 12-5
storage ........................................................... 14-22 brush spring .................................................. 12-3
fuse brushes ......................................................... 12-3
installation ...................................................... 12-16 commutator ................................................... 12-7
removal .......................................................... 12-16 field coils ....................................................... 12-9
testing ............................................................. 11-11 transaxle, type g................................................ 24-7
fuse, sense lead ................................................. 18-30 intake duct
installation ...................................................... 14-13
removal .......................................................... 14-12
IQ Display Module (IQDM)
G IQ system
governor diagnostics .................................................... 19-1
governor system................................................ 16-2 IQ Display Module Programming (IQDM-P)
governor cable IQ system ......................................................... 25-1
installation and adjustment................................. 14-9 diagnostics .................................................... 19-1
removal ............................................................ 14-8 IQDM
ground cable IQ system
testing .............................................................11-12 diagnostics .................................................... 19-1
Faults Menu .................................................. 19-7
Functions Menu ........................................... 19-13
Get Settings From Controller ........................ 19-13
H handset ......................................................... 19-1
headlight bulb Handset Cord .............................................. 19-19
installation ...................................................... 12-31 Handset Cord Adaptor.................................. 19-19
removal .......................................................... 12-30 Information .................................................. 19-16
headlight switch Introductory Display ....................................... 19-2
installation ...................................................... 12-33 IQDM Ports ................................................. 19-20
removal .......................................................... 12-32 Menu Navigation............................................ 19-2
headlights Monitor Menu ................................................ 19-4
see also lighting circuit......................................11-35 Programmer Setup....................................... 19-17
testing .............................................................11-35 Reset All Settings......................................... 19-15
high pedal detect .................................................. 18-5 System Faults................................................ 19-7
hydrometer test .................................................... 11-9 Test Procedures........................................... 19-19
Troubleshooting ........................................... 19-18
U
unitized transaxle
installation ...................................................... 16-15
lubrication ......................................................... 16-3
removal ............................................................ 16-7
service.............................................................. 16-2
V
voltage limiter
testing .............................................................11-34
voltage regulator
installation ...................................................... 12-13
removal .......................................................... 12-12
testing .............................................................11-18
W
walk away braking ................................................ 18-1
WARNING