A doll with a swivel head

The master class is intended exclusively for personal use. All rights
reserved. You may not copy or sell this MK. It is strictly forbidden to place
the materials given in this MK on any resources on the Internet, both in full
and in part. Any toys associated with this MK can only be sold
accompanied by the mandatory phrase: "The author of the development of
Lili Pav". Thank you for your understanding and enjoy your knitting!

MATERIALS
-Yarn Art Jeans (50g/160m) (55% cotton, 45% PAC) -Cocoa color 71-
2ball

- Black acrylic or half-wool - for hair (the manufacturer is not

important)

-Hook 2mm;

- Super Glue (for half-beads)

- Eyes 10mm (semi-beads or safe eyes) - 2 pieces

The first option:

- round-shaped cotter pin 20х25 mm (8 pieces); cardboard

washer 25 mm (4 pieces), 40 mm (4 pieces);

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The second option:

- 20 mm EYES (SAFE eyes) 4 pieces for the body; Cut out

circles of the required diameter from plastic (25 mm (4 pieces),
40 mm (4 pieces). In the middle of the circle, cut a hole and
insert the eye there on a secure mount.

- Fiberfill for stuffing

- Scissors v Tapestry needle

- Embroidery needle

- Embroidery thread for lips and eyebrows

- Chalk pastel for tinting

Finished size approx. 30 cm if you use same materials

Abbreviations
MR = magic ring

ch – chain

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st – stitch

sc - single crochet

sl st - slip stitch

inc - increase (2 sc in next st)

dec - decrease (2 sc worked off together)

HDC - half double crochet

DC - double crochet

( ) = number of stitches you should have at the end of your round

Use a stitch marker to mark the beginning of each round, and move
the marker up each time you start a new round. You can use a piece
of yarn of contrast color to mark the beginning of each round.

Tips for knitting toys

* Knit in continuous spiral rows, do not use a connecting post, and do not rotate
the work unless indicated.

* At the beginning of a row, use a marker or thread of a different color to mark the
first loop of each new row.

* When knitting some parts of the toy, it is necessary to monitor the symmetry so
that the marker does not go to the right. To do this, you need to tie the offset loop.

Offset loop.

In the process of knitting, it is necessary to monitor the symmetry of the part. Since
when crocheting the canvas has the property of skewing to the right, it is necessary
from time to time to adjust the position of the marker (the beginning of the row). If
you notice that the marker deviates to the right, you need to tie one additional

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column at the end of the row and move the marker by one loop. This is the so-
called offset loop. Keep track of the symmetry of the part during knitting.

Note that the offset loop is not included in the overall loop count of the scheme!

* For knitting this toy, you can use any yarn. The thicker the yarn, the larger the
size of the toy. The thinner the yarn, the smaller the size of the toy.

* fill the toy more tightly so that it does not lose its shape, but try not to stretch the
canvas.

* In the process of crocheting, you may be faced with the fact, that the paired parts
of the doll (legs, arms) could differ in lengths or thicknesses.

This is due to the fact, that on different days or even within the same day, the
thread tension in your hands changes. So, I advise you to crochet two paired parts
of the doll in parallel (i.e. crochet several rows of one leg, then set it aside and
crochet several rows of the other leg).

*This master class is only intended as a guide to help you link your similar toy.
How it will look depends on you!

PATTERN:
HANDS AND ARMS
LITTLE FINGER

Rnd 1: 5 sc in the magic ring (5)

Rnd 2: 5 sc (5)

Fasten off.

THUMB FINGER

Rnd 1: 5 sc in the magic ring (5)

Rnd 2: 5 sc (5)

Rnd 3: 2sc, inc,2sc (6)

Fasten off.
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RING AND MIDDLE FINGERS

Rnd 1: 5 sc in the magic ring (5)

Rnd 2-3 (2 rows): 5 sc (5)

Fasten off.

INDEX FINGER (we do not cut the thread. We will form a palm from the
index finger)

Rnd 1: 5 sc in the magic ring (5)

Rnd 2-3 (2 rows): 5 sc (5)

Left hand

The marker passes along the inside of the palm

Rnd 1: We connect the fingers: We attach the fingers to the index finger;
on the middle finger 2 sc, on the ring finger 4 sc, on the middle finger 2 sc,
on the index finger 2 sc. We put a marker (12)

Rnd 2: 6 sc, 5sc on the little finger (attach the little finger), sc, inc, 2sc, inc,
sc (19)

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Rnd 3-4 (2 rows): 19 sc (19)

Rnd 5: 1 sc, 2 sc we crochet together with the thumb, 16 sc (19)

Rnd 6: sc, 4 sc (by the free loops of the thumb), 16sc (21)

Rnd 7: 21 sc (21)

Rnd 8: dec, 2 sc, dec, 3 sc, dec, (sc, dec)*3, sc (15)

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Rnd 9: sc, dec, 6 sc, (dec, sc)*2 (12)

Rnd 10: inc, 4 sc, inc, (sc, inc)*2, 2 sc (16) + 2 Offset loop

Rnd 11: sc, inc, 5sc, inc, 2 sc, inc, 5sc (19)

Rnd 12: 12sc, inc, 5 sc, inc (21)

Rnd 13: 21sc (21). Fill the palm and thumb, you do not need to fill the other
fingers

The 9th row is the wrist, we do not fill it much with filler

Rnd 14: 11sc, inc, 9 sc (22)

Rnd 15: 11sc, inc, 10 sc (23)

Rnd 16: 11sc, inc, 11 sc (24) + 1 Offset loop

Rnd 17: 12sc, inc, 10sc, dec grab the loop of the next row (24)

Rnd 18-19 (2 rows): 24 sc

Rnd 20: dec, sc, dec, 5 sc, 4 inc, 5 sc, dec, sc, dec (24)

Rnd 21: 6 sc, dec, 8 sc, dec, 6 sc (22)

Rnd 22: sc, inc, 5 sc, 4 dec, 5 sc, inc, sc (20)

Rnd 23: sc, inc, 16 sc, inc, sc (22)

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Rnd 24: 2 sc, inc, 17 sc, inc, sc (24)

Rnd 25: 2 sc, inc, 18 sc, inc, 2 sc (26)

Rnd 26-29 (4 rows): 26 sc. Measure the required disk size. I have a disk -
2.5 cm

Rnd 30: 5 sc, 1ch, skip 1 st, 20 sc (26)

Rnd 31: 26 sc

Rnd 32: (11 sc, dec)* 2 (24)

Rnd 33: 11sc, dec, 9 sc, dec (22) we insert the mount (disk)

Insert the eye on a 2cm secure mount with a 25 mm plastic disc into the
missed st of row 30. Fill your hand.

Rnd 34: dec, 7 sc, dec, (3 sc, dec)*2, sc (18)

Rnd 35: (sc, dec)*6 (12)

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Rnd 36: 6 dec, close the remaining hole (Pull off the hole, hide the thread).

Right arm
The marker passes along the inside of the palm

Rnd 1: We connect the fingers: We attach the fingers to the index finger;
on the middle finger 2 sc, on the ring finger 4 sc, on the middle finger 2 sc,
on the index finger 2 sc. We put a marker (12)

Rnd 2: sc, inc, 2 sc, inc, sc, 5sc on the little finger (attach the little finger),
6 sc (19)

Rnd 3-4 (2 rows): 19 sc (19)

Rnd 5: 16 sc, 2 sc we crochet together with the thumb, 1 sc (19)

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Rnd 6: 16 sc, 4 sc (by the free loops of the thumb), 1 sc (21)

Rnd 7: 21 sc (21)

Rnd 8: sc, (dec, sc)*3, dec, 3 sc, dec, 2 sc, dec (15)

Rnd 9: (sc, dec)*2, 6 sc, dec, 1 sc (12)

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Rnd 10: 2 sc, (inc, sc)*2, inc, 4 sc, inc (16) + 2 Offset loop

Rnd 11: 5sc, inc, 2 sc, inc, 5 sc, inc, sc (19)

Rnd 12: inc, 5 sc, inc, 12 sc (21)

Rnd 13: 21sc (21). Fill the palm and thumb, you do not need to fill the other
fingers

The 9th row is the wrist, we do not fill it much with filler

Rnd 14: 9 sc, inc, 11 sc (22)

Rnd 15: 10sc, inc, 11 sc (23)

Rnd 16: 11sc, inc, 11 sc (24) + 1 Offset loop

Rnd 17: 11sc, inc, 11sc, dec grab the loop of the next row (24)

Rnd 18-19 (2 rows): 24 sc

Rnd 20: dec, sc, dec, 5 sc, 4 inc, 5 sc, dec, sc, dec (24)

Rnd 21: 6 sc, dec, 8 sc, dec, 6 sc (22)

Rnd 22: sc, inc, 5 sc, 4 dec, 5 sc, inc, sc (20)

Rnd 23: sc, inc, 16 sc, inc, sc (22)

Rnd 24: 2 sc, inc, 17 sc, inc, sc (24)

Rnd 25: 2 sc, inc, 18 sc, inc, 2 sc (26)

Rnd 26-29 (4 rows): 26 sc. Measure the required disk size. I have a disk –
25 mm

Rnd 30: 20 sc, 1ch, skip 1 st, 5 sc (26)

Rnd 31: 26 sc
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Rnd 32: (dec, 11 sc)* 2 (24)

Rnd 33: dec, 9 sc, dec, 11 sc (22) we insert the mount (disk)

Insert the eye on a 2cm secure mount with a 25 mm plastic disc into the
missed st of row 30. Fill your hand.

Rnd 34: sc, (dec, 3 sc)*2, dec, 7 sc, dec (18)

Rnd 35: (sc, dec)*6 (12)

Rnd 36: 6 dec, close the remaining hole (Pull off the hole, hide the thread).

LEFT LEG

The marker passes along the inside of the leg, in the process, if necessary,
we align it

Rnd 1: 10ch, start from the second stitch from the hook: 8 sc, 3 sc in the
last stitch, 8 sc (19)

Rnd 2: 9 sc, 1inc, 9sc (20)

Rnd 3: 20 sc (20)

Rnd 4: 1inc, 9 sc, 1inc, 9 sc (22)

Rnd 5: 22 sc (22)

Rnd 6: 1 sc, 1inc, 10 sc, 1inc, 9 sc (24)

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Rnd 7-9 (3rows): 24sc (24)

Rnd 10: 24 sc (24) + 3 Offset loop

Start crocheting the turning round without the chain stitches, there would be
1 stitch lesser each round due to it.
Rnd 11: From the 2nd stitch from hook - 12sc, turn (12)

Rnd 12: From the 2nd stitch from hook - 11sc, turn (11)

Rnd 13: From the 2nd stitch from hook - 10sc, turn (10)

Rnd 14: From the 2nd stitch from hook - 9sc, turn (9)

Rnd 15: From the 2nd stitch from hook - 8sc, turn (8)

Rnd 16: From the 2nd stitch from hook - 7sc, turn (7)

Rnd 17: Crochet in circle: dec, 2sc, dec, 4 sc, dec, 8 sc, dec, 4 sc (22)

Rnd 18: sc, dec, 4 sc, dec, 8 sc, dec, 3 sc (19)

Rnd 19: 17 sc, dec (18)

Rnd 20: 4 sc, inc, 3 sc, inc, 4 sc, inc, 3 sc, inc (22)

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Rnd 21: inc, 3 sc, inc, 17 sc (24)

Rnd 22: 7 sc, inc, 12 sc, inc, 3 sc (26)

Rnd 23: 8 sc, inc, 14 sc, inc, 2 sc (28)

Rnd 24: 28 sc (28)

Rnd 25: 9 sc, inc, 15 sc, inc, 2 sc (30)

Rnd 26-27 (2 rows): 30sc (30)

Creating a knee
Rnd 28: 14 sc, dec, 6 inc, dec, 6 sc (34)

Rnd 29: 13 sc, dec, 12 sc, dec, 5 sc (32)

Rnd 30: (2 sc, dec)*3, 18 sc, dec (28)

Rnd 31: dec, 5 sc, dec, 19 sc (26)

Rnd 32: inc, 3 sc, inc, 9 sc, inc, sc, dec, sc, inc, 4 sc, inc, sc (30)

Rnd 33: sc, inc, 4 sc, inc, 20 sc, inc, 2 sc (33)

Rnd 34: 2 sc, inc, 5 sc, inc, 20 sc, inc, 3 sc (36)

Rnd 35: 17 sc, dec, 16 sc, inc (36)

Rnd 36-39 (4 rows): 36sc (36)

Rnd 40: 1ch, skip 1 st, 35 sc (36)

Rnd 41: 7 sc, dec, 20 sc, dec, 5 sc (34)

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Rnd 42: 6 sc, dec, 19 sc, dec, 5 sc (32) we insert the mount (disk). I have a
disk – 40 mm

Rnd 43: 6 sc, dec, 18 sc, dec, 4 sc (30)

Rnd 44-45 (2 rows): 30sc (30)

Rnd 46: 4 sc, dec, 2 sc, dec, (4 sc, dec)*2, 2 sc, dec, 4 sc (25)

Rnd 47: (3sc, dec)* 5 (20)

Rnd 48: 3 sc, dec, 10 sc, dec, 3 sc (18)

Rnd 49: (sc, dec)*6 (12)

Rnd 50: 6 dec, close the remaining hole (Pull off the hole, hide the thread).

RIGHT LEG

The marker passes along the inside of the leg, in the process, if necessary,
we align it

Rnd 1: 10ch, start from the second stitch from the hook: 8 sc, 3 sc in the
last stitch, 8 sc (19)

Rnd 2: 9 sc, 1inc, 9sc (20)

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Rnd 3: 20 sc (20)

Rnd 4: 1inc, 9 sc, 1inc, 9 sc (22)

Rnd 5: 22 sc (22)

Rnd 6: 1 sc, 1inc, 10 sc, 1inc, 9 sc (24)

Rnd 7-9 (3rows): 24sc (24)

Rnd 10: 24 sc (24) + 3 Offset loop

Start crocheting the turning round without the chain stitches, there would be
1 stitch lesser each round due to it.
Rnd 11: From the 2nd stitch from hook - 12sc, turn (12)

Rnd 12: From the 2nd stitch from hook - 11sc, turn (11)

Rnd 13: From the 2nd stitch from hook - 10sc, turn (10)

Rnd 14: From the 2nd stitch from hook - 9sc, turn (9)

Rnd 15: From the 2nd stitch from hook - 8sc, turn (8)

Rnd 16: From the 2nd stitch from hook - 7sc, turn (7)

Rnd 17: Crochet in circle: dec, 2sc, dec, 4 sc, dec, 8 sc, dec, 4 sc (22)

Rnd 18: sc, dec, 4 sc, dec, 8 sc, dec, 3 sc (19)

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Rnd 19: 1 sc, dec,16 sc (18)

Rnd 20: 4 sc, inc, 3 sc, inc, 4 sc, inc, 3 sc, inc (22)

Rnd 21: inc, 3 sc, inc, 17 sc (24)

Rnd 22: 7 sc, inc, 12 sc, inc, 3 sc (26)

Rnd 23: 8 sc, inc, 14 sc, inc, 2 sc (28)

Rnd 24: 28 sc (28)

Rnd 25: 9 sc, inc, 15 sc, inc, 2 sc (30)

Rnd 26-27 (2 rows): 30sc (30)

Creating a knee

Rnd 28: 14 sc, dec, 6 inc, dec, 6 sc (34)

Rnd 29: 13 sc, dec, 12 sc, dec, 5 sc (32)

Rnd 30: (2 sc, dec)*3, 18 sc, dec (28)

Rnd 31: dec, 5 sc, dec, 19 sc (26)

Rnd 32: sc, inc, 4 sc, inc, sc, dec, sc, inc, 9 sc, inc, 3 sc, inc (30)

Rnd 33: 2 sc, inc, 20 sc, inc, 4 sc, inc, sc (33)

Rnd 34: 3 sc, inc, 20 sc, inc, 5 sc, inc, 2 sc (36)

Rnd 35: inc, 16 sc, dec, 17 sc (36)

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Rnd 36-39 (4 rows): 36sc (36)

Rnd 40: 18 sc, 1ch, skip 1 st, 18 sc (36)

Rnd 41: 5 sc, dec, 20 sc, dec, 7 sc (34)

Rnd 42: 5 sc, dec, 19 sc, dec, 6 sc (32) we insert the mount (disk). I have a
disk – 40 mm

Rnd 43: 4 sc, dec, 18 sc, dec, 6 sc (30)

Rnd 44-45 (2 rows): 30sc (30)

Rnd 46: 4 sc, dec, 2 sc, (dec, 4 sc)*2, dec, 2 sc, dec, 4 sc (25)

Rnd 47: (3sc, dec)* 5 (20)

Rnd 48: 3 sc, dec, 10 sc, dec, 3 sc (18)

Rnd 49: (sc, dec)*6 (12)

Rnd 50: 6 dec, close the remaining hole (Pull off the hole, hide the thread).

Body

Crochet the body from the bottom up.

The marker runs along the middle of the back. In the process of crocheting,
we align the marker.

Rnd 1: 6sc into the magic ring (6)

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Rnd 2: 6inc (12)

Rnd 3: (1sc, 1inc)*6 (18)

Rnd 4: sc, inc, (2sc, 1inc)* 5, sc (24)

Rnd 5: 2 sc, 3inc, 14 sc, 3inc, 2 sc (30)

Rnd 6: 2 sc, (inc, sc)*2, sc, inc, 14 sc, inc, sc, (sc, inc)*2, 2 sc (36)

Rnd 7: 3 sc, (inc, 2 sc)*2, inc, 2 sc, (inc, sc)*2, inc, 2 sc, inc, (sc, inc)*2, 2
sc, inc, (2 sc, inc)*2, 3 sc (48)
Rnd 8: 2 sc, (inc, 3 sc)*2, 3 sc, inc, sc, (inc, 2 sc)*2, inc, 4 sc, inc, (2 sc,
inc)*2, sc, inc, 3 sc, (3 sc, inc)*2, 2 sc (60)

Rnd 9: 60sc (60)

Rnd 10: 2 sc, inc, 9 sc, inc, 6 sc, inc, 20 sc, inc, 6 sc, inc, 9 sc, inc, 2 sc
(66). The marker is strictly centered

Rnd 11: 17 sc, 1ch, skip 1 st, 29 sc, 1ch, skip 1 st, 18 sc (66)

Rnd 12: 25 sc, inc, (2sc, 1inc)* 5, 25 sc (72)

Rnd 13: 3 sc, inc, 8 sc, dec, 11 sc, inc, 20 sc, inc, 11 sc, dec, 8 sc, inc, 3 sc
(74)

Rnd 14: 3 sc, inc, 22 sc, inc, 20 sc, inc, 22 sc, inc, 3 sc (78)

Rnd 15- 20 (6 rows): 78sc (78) + 2 Offset loop

Rnd 21: sc, dec, 10 sc, dec, 48 sc, dec,10 sc, dec, sc (74)

Rnd 22: sc, dec, 8 sc, dec, 48 sc, dec, 8 sc, dec, sc (70)

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Rnd 23: 3 sc, dec, 10 sc, dec, 36 sc, dec, 10 sc, dec, 3 sc (66)

Rnd 24: (3 sc, dec)*3, 36 sc, (dec, 3 sc)*3 (60)

Rnd 25 - 27 (3 rows): 60 sc (60) + 1 Offset loop

Rnd 28: (4 sc, inc)*2, 5 sc, dec, (2 sc, dec)*7, 5 sc, (inc, 4 sc)*2 (56)

Rnd 29: 5 sc, inc, 44 sc, inc, 5 sc (58)

We insert the legs into the intended places for fasteners. We fill the tummy
tightly, especially the lower abdomen. We form the roundness of the body.

Put the cotter pins from the legs in the skipped sts of the row 11. Take

2 washers size 40 mm and put then on the cotter pins ends from inside of
the body and roll the ends of cotter pins with a round nose pliers. Tighten
the ends of the cotter pins very hard to fix the legs as tight as it possible.

Rnd 30 - 31 (2 rows): 58 sc (58)

Rnd 32: 13 sc, 1ch, skip 1 st, 29 sc, 1ch, skip 1 st, 14 sc (58)

Rnd 33: 58 sc (58)

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Rnd 34: 58 sc (58) + 1 Offset loop

Rnd 35: 9 sc, dec, 6 sc, dec, 20 sc, dec, 6 sc, dec, 9 sc (54)

Rnd 36: 54 sc (54)

Rnd 37: 9 sc, dec, 4 sc, dec, 5 sc, dec, 6 sc, dec, 5 sc, dec, 4 sc, dec, 9
sc(48)

Rnd 38: 48 sc (48)

Rnd 39: 6 sc, dec, (2 sc, dec)*2, 16 sc, (dec, 2 sc)*2, dec, 6 sc (42)

Put the cotter pins ends from the arms in the skipped sts of the row 32. Put
the 25 mm washers on the other ends of the cotter pinf from inside of the
body and fix them.

Rnd 40: 5 sc, dec, (sc, dec)*2, 16 sc, (dec, sc)*2, dec, 5 sc (36)

Rnd 41: 36 sc (36)

Rnd 42: (4 sc, dec)*6 (30)

Fill the body, form the shoulders

Rnd 43: (3 sc, dec)*6 (24)

Rnd 44: (4 sc, dec)*4 (20)

Rnd 45 - 51 (7 rows): 20 sc (20)

Fill the neck hole tightly

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Rnd 52: 3 sc, dec, 10 sc, dec, 3 sc (18)

Rnd 53: (sc, dec)*6 (12)

Rnd 54: 6 dec, close the remaining hole (Pull off the hole, hide the thread).

HEAD
The marker passes through the middle of the back of the head, in the
process we align it.

Rnd 1: 6 sc in MR (6)
Rnd 2: 6 inc (12)
Rnd 3: (1 sc, 1 inc)*6 (18)
Rnd 4: 1 sc, (1 inc, 2 sc)*5, 1 inc, 1 sc (24)
Rnd 5: (3 sc, 1 inc)*6 (30)
Rnd 6: 2 sc, (1 inc, 4 sc)*5, 1 inc, 2 sc (36)
Rnd 7: (5 sc, 1 inc)*6 (42)
Rnd 8: 3 sc, (1 inc, 6 sc)*5, 1 inc, 3 sc (48)
Rnd 9: (7 sc, 1 inc)*6 (54)
Rnd 10: 4 sc, (1 inc, 8 sc)*5, 1 inc, 4 sc (60)
Rnd 11: (9 sc, 1 inc)*6 (66)
Rnd 12: 5 sc, (1 inc, 10 sc)*5, 1 inc, 5 sc (72)
Rnd 13 - 18 (6 rows): 72 sc (72)

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Rnd 19: 23 sc, dec, 7 sc, dec, 4 sc, dec, 7 sc, dec, 23 sc (68)
Rnd 20: 68 sc (68)
Rnd 21: 31 sc, dec, 2 sc, dec, 31 sc (66)
Rnd 22 - 24 (3 rows): 66 sc (66)

Rnd 25: 23 sc, (inc, sc)*3, inc, 6 sc, inc, (sc, inc)*3, 23 sc (74)

Rnd 26: 24 sc, (inc, 2 sc)*3, inc, 6 sc, inc, (2 sc, inc)*3, 24 sc (82)

Rnd 27: (3 sc, dec)*3, 52 sc, (dec, 3 sc)*3 (76)

Rnd 28 - 30 (3 rows): 76 sc (76)

Rnd 31: (4 sc, dec)*2, 52 sc, (dec, 4 sc)*2 (72)

Rnd 32 - 34 (3 rows): 72 sc (72)

Rnd 35: (35 sc, inc)*2 (74)

Rnd 36: 9 sc, dec, 2 sc, (dec, 4 sc)*8, 2 sc, dec, 9 sc (64)

Rnd 37: 4 sc, dec, 53 sc, dec, 3 sc (62)

Rnd 38: 3 sc, dec, 6 sc, (dec, 2 sc)*10, 6 sc, dec, 3 sc (50)

Rnd 39: 2 sc, dec, 42 sc, dec, 2 sc (48)

Rnd 40: 1sc, dec, 6 sc, (dec, sc )*10, 6 sc, dec, sc (36)

I am stuffing my head at this stage. Since the head is completely without

weights, then pay attention to the stuffing of the head. And we give the
stuffing shapes, roundness of cheeks, chin. In the process, we use an
skewers of to drag the filler to the places we need.

Rnd 41: 2 sc, (dec,4 sc )*5, dec, 2 sc (30)

Rnd 42: (3 sc, dec)*6 (24)

Rnd 43 - 50 (8 rows): 24 sc (24)

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Tuck inside of the head 7 rows.

HEAD DESIGN

The first option: On the foamiran, we trace our eyes along the contour, only
we make them slightly more prominent on the outer edge.

We glue the whites of the eyes between the 25 and 26 rows. Next, we glue
the eyes themselves as in the photo.

The second option:

Glue the eyes between 25 and 26 rows. Next, we embroider the whites
around the eyes as in the photo. We glue the cilia.

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Next, we embroider the mouth. First, we outline the shape of the mouth
with stitches, then we shape the mouth with embracing vertical stitches.
The upper edge of the upper lip is not higher than 30 rows. The maximum
size of the mouth is 3 rows in height.

NOSE
Dial a chain of 5ch and from the second loop from the hook we knit: HDC,
2DC, HDC. Fasten the thread, cut it off, leaving the end for sewing

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We apply the nose so that the left thread is on the right and sew it on.
The upper edge of the nose is at the same level with the lower edge of the
eye. The spout is sewn in the 27th row, it occupies 1 row in height.

HAIR
Crochet through the back loops.
2 Rnd – 19 Rnd = BLO
Rnd 1: 6 sc in MR (6)
Rnd 2: 6 inc (12)
Rnd 3: (1 sc, inc) *6 (18)
Rnd 4: 1 sc, inc, (2 sc, inc) *5, 1 sc (24)
Rnd 5: (3 sc, inc) *6 (30)
Rnd 6: 2 sc, inc, (4 sc, inc) * 5, 2 sc (36)
Rnd 7: (5 sc, inc) *6 (42)
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Rnd 8: 3 sc, inc, (6 sc, inc) * 5, 3 sc (48)
Rnd 9: (7 sc, inc) * 6 (54)
Rnd 10: 4 sc, inc, (8 sc, inc) *5, 4 sc (60)
Rnd 11 - 20 (10 rows): 60 sc (60)

Cut the yarn, leaving a long tail for sewing.

CURLS
Creating this hairstyle will take a lot of strength and patience from you. But
believe me, the final result is worth your e ort. The hair is very voluminous
and pleasant to the touch.
Rnd 1: (16 ch, 15 sc)*6 (6)

Join the yarn to the front loop of the 2nd

row and crochet all the time in the spiral
rows.

Cast on a chain from 16 ch.st.

Crochet reversed, starting into the

second loop from the hook 15 sc. The
first curl is ready.

Next, crochet over the wig. Make

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the sl.s.t into the next loop and 16 ch.st.
from it. And crochet in the same way as
the first curl.

Rnd 2: (16 ch, 15 sc)*12 (12)

Rnd 3: (16 ch, 15 sc, co1 skip)*9 (9)

Next, crochet 1 sl.st. over the wig. Make the sl.s.t into the next loop and 16
ch. st. from it. And crochet in the same way as the first curl. (For clarity:
there are 1 sl.st. between each curl).
Rnd 4: (16 ch, 15 sc, co1 skip)*12 (12)

Rnd 5: skip
Rnd 6: (16 ch, 15 sc, co1 skip)*18 (18)
Rnd 7: (16 ch, 15 sc, co1 skip)*24 (24)
Rnd 8: skip
Rnd 9- 10 (2 rows): (16 ch, 15 sc, co1 skip)*30 (30)
Rnd 11: skip
Rnd 12- 13 (2 rows): (16 ch, 15 sc, co1 skip)*30 (30)
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Rnd 14: skip
Rnd 15- 16 (2 rows): (16 ch, 15 sc, co1 skip)*30 (30)
Rnd 17: skip
Rnd 18: (16 ch, 15 sc, co1 skip)*30 (30)
Rnd 19: skip

Continue to work in this way until the whole wig is ready.

Try to crochet tightly, then the hairstyle will turn out to be more active and
curly. If the curls do not twist well, twist them clockwise with your fingers.
When finished, sew the hair to the head.

Ears (2)
Rnd 1: 6sc in the magic ring (6)

Rnd 2: 4inc, 1ch, turn (8)

Rnd 3: 2sc, 1inc, (1sc, 1inc)х2, 1ch, turn. Leave the 20 cm thread to attach
the ears to the head.

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Attach them at the distance of 10 stitches from the eyes.
The top of the ear should be at eye level.

Eyebrows

We outline the location of the eyebrows

Tinting

We tint the cheeks and the bridge of the nose with dry pastel or dry blush.

Swivel head

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 32
20.09.2021 Design by Lili Pav
After you have connected the head and neck with threads, you need to
firmly put the head on the neck. Then pull up all the threads and tie them
together tighter so that a small depression is formed. Make sure that the
head does not hang out, for this you can pull it up a little. Hide the threads
inside the head.

THAT'S IT! Now the head is securely fixed and can turn around.

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