1.

Title Opener
● Often known as "living stones" or "pebble stones"- said to avoid being eaten by
blending in with surrounding rocks.
2. Plant Background
● Lithops, also known as living stone plants, are a type of succulent that originated
from Southern Africa. They are part of the Aizoaceae family and have evolved to
look like the pebbles and rocks of their native habitats in Africa. Like other
succulents, Lithops are adapted to arid environments and can handle drought
and temperature extremes with ease.
● However, Lithops can require more care than other succulents and cacti because
they are picky about how and when you water them. They have specific
environmental needs that must be met for plant owners to keep them healthy.
These plants prefer full sun year-round, meaning at least six hours of sunlight on
most days. They like sandy soil with plenty of drainage and must be watered on a
seasonal schedule that mimics the rainfall they would get in their natural habitat.
● Lithops low-maintenance plants that have specific environmental needs that must
be met for plant owners to keep them healthy. These plants prefer full sun
year-round, meaning at least six hours of sunlight on most days. If you’re growing
living stones indoors and don’t have a bright window, you might need to invest in
an artificial grow light for them.
● These plants like sandy soil with plenty of drainage. A potting mix formulated for
cacti is ideal for living stones, and the container should have several holes on the
bottom for drainage. Proper watering is usually the most crucial part of caring for
this species. Living stones are highly tolerant of drought, and too much water can
easily kill them—especially if it promotes root rot or fungal growth1. Living stones
must be watered on a seasonal schedule that mimics the rainfall they would get
in their natural habitat. Don’t water in summer or over the winter when the plant is
dormant.
3. Challenges
● Note
● Lithops are a special case. They need much less water than pretty much every
other plant. They have long dormancy phases during which they shouldn't be
watered at all. I haven't watered mine for about five and a half months now.
i. Specifically, you should water them: in late spring/early summer, after
they finished renewing their leaves. in late summer/fall around the time
they bloom. only when they are actually thirsty (They'll shrink down in
overall length and the tops will flatten or may even become concave and
wrinkly). Anything outside of that is overwatering.
4. [pictures]
1. Needs a grittier potting mix
2. The opposite of 1: mostly inorganic substrate–water might be draining too quickly
and plants shriveling from lack of water
➢ TIPS from online gardeners:
i. IDEAL: 70% inorganic, 30% organic
 ii. Avoid misting succulents with Greyhues(hiarish fibers) /fur/&rosettes
centers/ as with hands on leaves can leave marks on the fine hairs that
collect air for moisture and other things
iii. No spraying/misting: when it comes to mesembs/succulents, it's better
(usually, outside of seedlings) to either water completely or do not water.
Commonly called the "drench and dry" method. Water enough to soak the
pot fully and then let dry for anywhere from a few days to several weeks
depending on climatic conditions. Avoid watering in little sips.
3. Fungal infestation: basis of problem is overwatering; also person used styrofoam
cup, which besides being not very robust, further traps moisture and retains
humidity; at this point- could TRY to carefully uproot and separate each plant to
try to prevent fungal spread and give the plants a better draining environment,
but uncertain how this will turn out
4. The lithops I was growing actually turned out like this! This is called etiolation and
is caused by not enough light. It could also be a symptom of overwatering
because lithops will grow in search of more light when they receive too much
water. Increase the amount of light it gets, otherwise treat it as usual. Some
people suggest that if you tried to repot, it will introduce more chance for root rot
when splitting time comes. Over a couple of splits it will return to a more normal
size. One thing to note is that if the plant grows tall like this and then splits, it may
end up splitting out of the sides of the plant near the base instead of the usual
division at the top. However, the old leaves should still eventually dry up, just not
quite at the same pace as they would have with normal splitting and moisture
transference from old-to-new-leaves at the top. Other gardeners have tried to
assist by peeling back the old leaves down to the substrate level once it's
confirmed there are new leaves.The primary thing you'd need to be careful of is
creating a pathway for infection. Should you decide to go this assistance route,
be sure that no moisture gets on the wound. Make sure it's calloused thoroughly.
Some gardeners recommend dabbing on a minor amount of cinnamon powder or
sulfur to plant wounds to help to promote callousing and act as an antibacterial
agent.
5. This lithops is displaying evidence of overwatering from its bursting leaves and
turgid, bloated form. Sometimes overwatering may also manifest in brown edema
splotches along the surface of the plant. In either case, one should definitely cut
back on watering, ensure the potting mix and drainage systems are adequate,
and perhaps place the plant in a brighter, sunnier location to help with drying out
the soil before rewatering.
6. This is an example of a plant with root rot, which is a common hazard with lithops
and overwatering. The roots get waterlogged and begin to decompose. At this
point, you’d need to remove any dark, mushy, rotten roots, apply a fungicide to
the remaining roots, air out the plant to dry a few hours, and then repot the plant
in well-drained soil and reduce the watering it receives in the future.
7. Lastly, I included an example of the rare underwatered lithops. This is kind of
hard to tell, but most people take care to look at the tops of the plant for signs of
 wrinkling and defined bumpy textures, as opposed to the sides (which are often a
little wrinkly naturally). Also, some people like to plant lithops with their tops flush
with the substrate (arguing that this is how many species are found in the
wilderness), so you’d only see the tops in that case. The issue with planting
deeper, is that there is a greater chance of root rot, so you have to ensure your
substrate is well-draining for sure.
i. To revive an underwatered lithops, place the pot in a bowl or saucer with
at least eight to 14 ounces of water to provide the plant with a deep
watering. Allow sufficient time for the water to be absorbed into the soil
through the pot’s drainage holes. When you finally remove the pot from
the water, allow any excess water to drain off before returning the plant to
its usual spot.
ii. Underwatered lithops, as with most underwatered succulents, are much
easier to save than overwatered ones. Succulents are used to surviving
for long periods in absence of water. These plants’ dry, flat and crinkly
leaves can still recover if the plants are given a thorough soak.
5. Propagation
● Lithops can be propagated by division or seed. To propagate living stones by
division, you can gently separate the plants and repot them individually. To
propagate living stones by seed, fill a pot with sandy soil and sprinkle the seeds
over the soil. Cover the cactus mix with paper and then plastic. The paper
protects the seeds from direct sunlight, while the plastic holds in the moisture.
● If you buy lithops online you may find that they're delivered bare-root and you
need to plant them yourself. Lithops need very free-draining compost, such as a
cactus compost. Choose a terracotta pot, which is more porus than plastic or
glazed pots, so the compost dries out quickly. Plant them singly or in groups.
6. [pictures]
● Some people like to start seedlings under plastic with the soil slightly moist all the
way through for the first month or so. Once the first true leaves start to appear
then you definitely need to back off on the water. You could leave them entirely
dry until the seed leaves die back, but some people find it is best to give them
intermittent water to keep them growing, but all the time letting the seed leaves
dry up. Anything that kills a Lithops, even a tiny seedling, in a short period of time
isn't too little water. Instead, it’s often overwatering, poor potting mix, or getting
boiled in the sun.
● Here’s some pictures showcasing different aspects of lithops while in growth and
propagation stages!
7. End Key Points and Conclusions
● Lithops have a very particular growing cycle and therefore need watering in a
very particular way. This may seem daunting at first but, once you've got the
hang of it, it's easy.
● The main consideration when watering lithops is the growth of the new leaves.
Lithops develop new leaves each year, which emerge from the fissure between
the two older leaves, which then gradually shrivel away (pictured). The watering
 regime is based around the growth of these new leaves. If you water too soon
after the new leaves have emerged, the old leaves might not shrivel away
properly.
● Unlike other succulents, lithops start into growth in autumn. In the wild, this
coincides with seasonal rains, so it's a good idea to give your lithops a good
watering during this time (early September). It's around this time that flowers start
to appear – look out for the fissure opening and a bud growing out. Lithops need
to be at least three years old to flower.
● Lithops continue growing through winter and into spring, with the new pair of
leaves growing inside the old. However it's important to not water in winter. The
new pair of leaves actually grows by drawing water from the old pair, so the soil
should be very dry.
● In spring, the old leaves shrivel away and the new leaves are exposed. Start
watering again when the old pair of leaves has completely shrivelled. Water a
little at a time, allowing the compost to dry out between waterings.
● Lithops go dormant in summer, typically during the most extreme heat of their
native southern African environment. Avoid watering them during this time, then
give them a good drink in early September, when growth starts again.
● Problem solving: overwatering, or watering at the wrong time of year, is the main
problem when growing lithops. A lack of light can also cause the plants to lose
their markings. In greenhouses and conservatories, red spider mite can be a
problem.

8. References