Easy Houseplant Care Guide

A ROOKIE'S GUIDE:
CARING FOR 8 POPULAR
HOUSEPLANTS
BY BRITTANY GOLDWYN
Everything you need to

help these plants thrive!
bybrittanygoldwyn.com
IN THIS GUIDE
INTRODUCTION 3
CHAPTER 1 5
CHAPTER 2 13
CHAPTER 3 20
CHAPTER 4 28
CHAPTER 5 37
CHAPTER 6 43
CHAPTER 7 49
CHAPTER 8 55
bybrittanygoldwyn.com
INTRODUCTION
HI THERE, PLANT LOVER!
bybrittanygoldwyn.com 3
INTRODUCTION
Hi there, fellow plant lover!

I'm Brittany, owner of by Brittany
Goldwyn, a modern DIY, crafting, plant-
loving blog where I inspire others to
infuse creativity into daily life. And my
house is full of plants.
Many people think they can't take care

of houseplants. I used to say the same.
But the truth is, with a little research
about houseplant care, you can find the
perfect plants for you.
This guide outlines 8 easy-to-care-for

houseplants that you can master today
with just a few tips. I promise—you can
do it! Enjoy.
bybrittanygoldwyn@gmail.com
instagram.com/brittanymerth
pinterest.com/bybrittanyg
facebook.com/bybrittanyg
© 2019, by Brittany Goldwyn 4

No part of this guide may be reproduced or distributed in any form
CHAPTER 1
POTHOS
1 | POTHOS
HOW TO CARE FOR POTHOS

One of my first plant posts ever was
about how to propagate pothos
plants from cuttings, so it's only
fitting that I kick off my houseplant
care guide with the pothos plant,
one of the most popular and easiest
to care for houseplants.
You might hear it called golden

pothos, silver vine, taro vine, devil’s
vine, devil’s ivy, and more. Although
it looks like some varieties of
philodendron, it is actually from an
entirely different genus—the
genus Epipremnum. Pothos plants
are wonderful if you’re looking to
get your feet wet with houseplants
but don’t want something that is
difficult to keep alive. So let's jump
in and discuss this plant's needs.
1 | POTHOS
DIFFERENT VARIETIES
Pothos varieties are generally stunning, lush-looking plants with
shiny heart-shaped leaves and trailing vines in a variety of different
colors and patterns.You can train the leaves to climb, hang the
plants, or just put a pot of it on a shelf.
Different pothos plants have deep green, light green, yellow, and
white patchy coloring. Some are even solid green. Marble Queen is
probably the most common variety; it’s also my favorite. The
stunning leaves have a beautiful white and green pattern, and
they’re a bit shinier. Other varieties include Pearls and Jade, Silver
Satin, and more.
All varieties are poisonous if

ingested because of the calcium
crystals, so it's a good idea to keep
them away from pets and kids.
That’s why I have most of mine
hanging from the ceiling or high up
on shelving where nosy kitties and
toddlers can’t get to them. Luckily
they look great hanging!
1 | POTHOS
LIGHT REQUIREMENTS
Pothos plants can thrive in a variety of different lighting conditions
from abundant sunlight to florescent lighting in a cubical. However,
it will thrive in higher light conditions. My pothos plants by
windows do the best.
Pothos varieties with patterns on the leaves (referred to as

variegated plants) can lose their patterns and become all green if
they don’t get enough light. Leaves become pale when the plant is
getting too much sun.
TEMPERATURE & HUMIDITY NEEDS

Pothos will be happiest above 50° F, and they generally prefer a
60–80° room temperature. But they are adaptable. They aren’t
going to immediately die if your AC breaks and your house gets to
90° or beyond.
Pothos plants love high humidity and will flourish in it, but they also
do just fine in low humidity. We run a humidifier in Ramona’s room
through the winter, and the pothos right above her crib did
amazing! As did the pothos in our bathroom.
1 | POTHOS
WATERING YOUR POTHOS

Pothos plants aren’t picky. I like to let mine tell me when they need
water; they’ll start drooping when they need a good drink, and I
water immediately. They perk back up within a day. If you don’t
want to wait until they start drooping, let the soil dry out between
waterings. This patient plant will forgive you.
Don’t over-water. Pothos plants are prone to root rot from

continuously damp soil. Leaves with black spots could indicate
over-watering, but I’ve never had that happen. When I over-water,
a couple of the leaves turn yellow. I pluck them off, apologize to
the plant, and let it dry out before watering again!
1 | POTHOS
PEST PROBLEMS
Pothos plants are vulnerable to the common houseplant pests—
mealybugs and fungus gnats, mostly. I have never had any
problems with pests in my pothos. If you have problems, try
backing off the watering, cleaning out the plant and surrounding
soil with a water and dish soap mixture, and repotting in fresh,
well-draining soil.
SOIL NEEDS
Well-draining soil is the best choice because pothos plants are
prone to root rot. I like to add a bit of perlite to my regular
houseplant soil to encourage a bit more drainage. Ideally a planter
with a drainage hole and saucer is best. However, almost all of my
pothos plants are in hanging baskets or sitting high on shelves so
they can trail down.
Because those planters don’t have drainage holes, I add drainage

by putting a layer of perlite or rocks to the bottom of the pot. This
way, the roots are never sitting in water (root rot!). A lot of my DIY
planters don’t have holes and the plants are still thriving!
1 | POTHOS
FERTILIZING POTHOS PLANTS

Fertilizing isn't necessary for
pothos plants—they'll do just fine
without it. But they’ll thrive if you
occasionally give them some
houseplant fertilizer. I give mine a
little extra houseplant fertilizer
boost every few months. I just use
a liquid concentrate houseplant
fertilizer.
REPOTTING & PRUNING

Pothos plants don’t like to be pot bound (when the roots fill the
pot). If your plant is droopy even after watering, it probably needs
more room. Transplant it to a bigger planter with fresh soil.
I don’t prune my pothos plants a ton. I like to let them grow long
and trail the vines along things in the house. The vines can grow
25+ feet long! However, much like long hair, it’s only pretty if it’s
healthy. If the vines look long and scraggly (you’ll hear them
referred to as “leggy”), I cut them off.
1 | POTHOS
PROPAGATION
Growing or propagating pothos cuttings in
water is simple and can help you make
new plants from cuttings. Here's how.
Step 1: Cut a few pieces or strands

from a plant. Remove leaves from the
bottom to make room for new root
growth.
Step 2: Stick the cut end of the pieces

into a jar with water. The ends should
be fully submerged.
Step 3: After a few weeks, you’ll see

new roots sprouting. Let the roots get a
few inches long, then plant in fresh soil.
If it looks a bit weepy for a few days, don’t

panic. Sometimes plants need some time
to rebound after being repotted, and this
is a brand new plant, too!
CHAPTER 2
STRING OF PEARLS
11
2 | STRING OF PEARLS
HOW TO CARE FOR STRING OF PEARLS

The string of pearls plant—or Senecio rowleyanus, and also
referred to as a string of beads or string of peas plant—is a
succulent with stunning strings of round, bead-like leaves. The
leaves actually look a lot like green peas, but the long, skinny
stems the leaves grow from make it look like a pearl necklace. A
string of pearls plant is easy to care for if you give it the right
growing conditions. If the plant is happy where it is, it will grow
quickly and beautifully!
LIGHT REQUIREMENTS
String of pearls plants need bright
light, but they don’t need bright
light all day. As long as they
receive a few hours a day of direct
sunlight, they are fine with indirect
sunlight the rest of the day.
However, more direct sunlight will
help them flourish! A window spot
is the best choice for this
succulent.
SOIL NEEDS
Use a simple well-draining cactus or succulent potting mix. These
soils differ from regular houseplant soil in that they facilitate
drainage much faster through the addition of things like sand and
perlite. Keep in mind that succulents are generally happiest when
they have plenty of drainage via a hole in the bottom of their pot.
If you’re wondering how to plant in pots without drainage holes,

simply add a layer of small pebbles or perlite to the bottom of the
planter. This drainage layer prevents the roots from sitting in wet
soil if you over-water. Of course, you have to be extra careful not
to over water when your planter doesn’t have a drainage hole.
WATERING YOUR STRING OF PEARLS

As a succulent, string of pearls plants do not need frequent
watering. They can retain moisture in their round leaves quite well,
so they need a good watering only 1–2 times a month. You can
water them a bit more if the conditions are very hot and the soil is
drying out quickly. In the winter, you can reduce this to once a
month when they aren’t actively growing.
Watering your string of pearls too frequently can lead to root rot.
It’s best to let the soil become dry before you water it again. If you
wait too long to water, you might notice some wilting or
flattening/shriveling of the leaves. This can usually be reversed
with a good watering if the plant hasn’t been suffering for too long.
FERTILIZER NEEDS
I don’t fertilize my string of pearls or any of my succulents, and
they seem to be doing fine. However, you can fertilize yours with
the rest of your houseplants during the active growing season
(spring/summer) with a diluted houseplant fertilizer occasionally,
and it won’t harm it.

String of pearls plants are not too picky about humidity and do
well in average conditions. They generally tolerates a range of
comfortable indoor room temperatures—from 55 to 85° F. It can
live outdoors in the summer, but keep it in a shaded area during
peak sun. Keep an eye on how it’s doing and move it if necessary.
String of pearls plants do not tolerant the cold. Don’t leave it

outdoors once temperatures start dropping down into the low 50s.
It will probably revolt and begin dropping leaves, which is not a
cute look.
HOW TO GET A STRING OF PEARLS TO BLOOM

String of pearls plans can bloom! Though, full disclosure, mine
never have. If you keep your string of pearls in cooler
temperatures during its winter resting season and cut back on
water a bit, it may help to promote blooming in the spring. You can
achieve cooler temperatures by keeping the string of pearls on a
windowsill and away from heat registers; even if the window is
closed, it’s still likely one of the cooler spots in your home.
REPOTTING & PRUNING

String of pearls plants can have a long, sleek look if you let their
stems grow uninterrupted. They can grow to be 2–3 feet long and
still look beautiful and healthy! However, if you’d like to encourage
your plant to be fuller, you can stick the ends of stems back into
the soil to create a little loop. String of pearls plants do not need to
be pruned.
However, as with all houseplants, a little grooming never hurts!

You can easily cut off any stems with leaves that don’t look very
healthy. It will not hurt the plant. You can also trim the ends of
stems that are beginning to look scraggly.
You should repot your string of pearls when it becomes root

bound. Repotting will help prolong the health of your plant by
replenishing the depleted nutrients and giving it more room to
grow. Make sure to use a well-draining soil as outlined above.
TOXICITY & PESTS

String of pearls is toxic to people and pets if ingested. It can cause
drooling, vomiting, and diarrhea. No thanks. It should be kept out of
reach and admired from afar by pets and children who might try to
eat it for fun. These plants are not especially vulnerable to pests.
However, they are vulnerable to common houseplant pests:
fungus, mealybugs, and aphids. You can prevent many pest
infections by controlling infections in nearby more vulnerable
plants. You can also avoid over-watering.
PROPAGATION
String of pearls can be easily
propagating through rooting
cuttings in water or in moist soil.
They will begin to root quickly and
sprout new growth. I wouldn’t
recommend propagating string of
pearls through division of an
existing plant. The plant’s leaves
can be fragile and separating the
roots could shock it a bit.
CHAPTER 3
WANDERING JEW
3 | WANDERING JEW
HOW TO CARE FOR A WANDERING JEW PLANT

The wandering jew plant (also known as Tradescantia zebrina,
inchplant, or spiderwort) is a beautiful plant suitable for both indoor
and outdoor (in many places) growth. Its leaves can range from
stunning deep purple to green with silver stripes. It’s a great,
patient houseplant that is forgiving and hardy.
WHERE DOES THE NAME COME FROM?

When you hear the name “wandering jew,” you might wonder, is
this offensive? I found a few resources I want to share before we
talk about care tips. My take on this is strictly research-based and
is not colored by religion because I am not a member of any
religion. But I do always try to be mindful of others' preferences.
According to the Jewish Telegraphic Agency, “its name calls to

mind Moses and the Israelites in the Sinai Desert, wandering for 40
years.” Additionally, the Rabbi Dr. Raymond Apple who runs the
website OzTorah answered a question about the name wandering
jew, saying the plant bears the name because it “has a tendency to
spread” and that this name was “probably given without conscious
antisemitic malice.” Apparently there is also a bird called a
wandering jew!
3 | WANDERING JEW
But here’s where the origins get a little iffy. The story of The
Wandering Jew is actually Christian-centric legend. The legend
says that the Wandering Jew is a mythical immortal man who
“taunted Jesus” en route to being crucified and was cursed to walk
the Earth until the second coming. Taunting isn’t cool, but eternal
punishment seems harsh, Jesus. According to OzTorah, “the
underlying notion is that the Jews are destined to wander and be
reviled because they rejected Jesus.” Oof.
WAIT, SO IS IT COOL TO USE THE NAME?

Everything I read from Jewish folks describing the connection to
the plant seemed cool with it. The OzTorah website also says that
the original story is unlikely to have had a specific connection with
Jews—though some Christians have morphed it in to an antisemitic
legend. The Jewish Telegraphic Agency website also says the
following about the term “wandering Jew”:
This motif of the wandering Jew also took form as an 1844

French novel, opera, and silent film which weren’t anti-Semitic
so much as straight-up depressing: A Jewish man is separated
from his sister by the Bering Strait and condemned to wander
the Earth forever. A plague of cholera follows in his wake, and—
spoiler alert—he never finds his sister.
3 | WANDERING JEW
So why, exactly, is a plant called the wandering jew? Well…we’re

not totally sure. But most people assume that, like the mythical
Wandering Jew character cursed to wander the Earth forever, the
Tradescantia zebrina plant has wandered all around the world. This
hardy dude gets around. So let's talk care.
WANDERING JEW PLANT VARIETIES

There are three major varieties of
wandering jew plants, or
Tradescantias. The most common
is probably the Tradescantia
Fluminensis, also known as the
small-leaf spiderwort, wandering
gypsy, and more. I don’t have this
variety, but it’s a solid green variety
with longer leaves.
Tradescantia Zebrina (right) is the

most common wandering jew plant
you see indoors. It’s the one with
the deep purple, green, and silver
markings. I have it in a few places in
my home.
3 | WANDERING JEW
Finally, the Tradescantia Pallida (commonly known as purple

queen and purple heart) is a striking deep purple variety with
longer, pointer leaves. It is native to Mexico. I have it in my
backyard hanging in a basket. I tried it indoors, but the lack of light
led the plant to turn green.
All of these varieties are safe to have around kids and pets, but
don’t eat it. If your cats eat it, they’ll be fine, but they’ll probably
barf because they’re cats .
3 | WANDERING JEW
LIGHT REQUIREMENTS
Bright indirect light is the best. However, the wandering jew plant
can survive in very low light conditions. The lack of light will
decrease the amount of purple, though. It takes a decent amount
of sun to get the purple color, which is probably why my
wandering jew hanging in a shady spot under our deck is much
more vibrant than the one potted in the basement.
TEMPERATURE & HUMIDITY

Indoors, it’s fine everywhere. Yay for flexible houseplants for tricky
rooms! Outdoors, the wandering jew plant will do fine in hot
temperatures, but I keep mine in the shade. It will die under
freezing, but unless it gets below 20° F, it will regrow (also called
wintering over). The plant tolerates a variety of humidity levels.
WATER & FERTILIZER NEEDS

The wandering jew plant is relatively patient with watering. It
enjoys a good soak, but it doesn’t like to be wet all the time. Let
the soil get mostly dry before watering again. I usually just water
when the top few inches feels dry.You also shouldn’t water directly
into the center of the plant. This can lead to rot.
3 | WANDERING JEW
As with other houseplants, you can water less during the winter.
But don’t forget about it totally and let it become too dry—some of
the leaves can turn brown and crispy, falling off of the stems and
leaving bare spots. Not a cute look. Your wandering jew will thank
you for a diluted houseplant fertilizer monthly during the warmer
months. It grows quickly, so it will devour the food.
PRUNING, GROOMING, & REPOTTING

This is where I think wandering jew plants are a bit harder than
other houseplants: they need some help to stay pretty. They grow
quickly and drop older leaves, which can leave the plant looking
"stemmy" and spindly. This is especially a problem indoors where
there isn’t quick new growth to cover up the bald spots.
These plants do not age well.You can help yours look beautiful by
starting new smaller plants in the same pot as the aging plant (see
the propagation section). You can also just cut a plant down to the
soil and use the cuttings to just create a totally new plant.
They grow quickly and need frequent repotting. But their stems
are ridiculously fragile. I don’t even know how this plant stays alive
sometimes. Be prepared to lose some of it when you repot.
3 | WANDERING JEW
PROPAGATION
Luckily, though, this plant is incredibly easy to propagate from
cuttings. There are three ways to do it. The first is by cutting off
long stems and burying them in fresh, moist soil. The cuttings will
begin to root, and you’ll probably see new growth within a few
weeks.
The second way is by rooting cuttings in water. I love seeing the

new root growth when propagating in water. I find the new roots
grow quicker in water than pothos roots do, for example.
The third way to grow a new

wandering jew plant from
cuttings is to take cuttings and
lay them on top of moist soil.
The little node areas should
have contact with the soil. You
could sprinkle a thin layer of soil
on top of the joints as well.
Roots will begin to form after a
while if you keep the area moist
but not sopping wet.
CHAPTER 4
SNAKE PLANT
4 | SNAKE PLANT
HOW TO TAKE CARE OF A SNAKE PLANT

The snake plant, or Sansevieria trifasciata, is a striking plant with a
variety of different patterns and color variations. It’s one of the
absolute easiest plants to care for. There are many different snake
plant species—about 70. Some snake plants are dark green with
whitish stripes—both vertical and horizontal—while others have
yellow edges or a red tint. Some are lighter green, while others are
quite dark. “Twist” varieties have twisted leaves. Depending on the
variety, snake plants can grow up to several feet tall. The yellow-
edge, red-tinted, and twisted varieties tend to not grow as tall. All
varieties are poisonous to pets. However, my cats don’t bother
them, so I don’t worry about having them in the house.
4 | SNAKE PLANT
LIGHT REQUIREMENTS
I have a snake plant in almost every room in my house because it
tolerates and can even thrive in a variety of different conditions.
Snake plants tolerate everything from low to high light. You’ll
sometimes see them indoors in doctors offices. You’ll also see it
outside in areas that get a lot of sun all year round, like Florida.
While I find that my snake plants in high-, indirect-light areas grow

the fastest, my snakes in low-light areas also do very well. I have
snake plants in our bedroom, Ramona’s nursery, and the living
room—all spots that get great light. But I also have them in lower
light areas like our kitchen and lower level.
WATERING REQUIREMENTS
The only thing snake plants are picky about is water. I generally
water mine once every week and a half-ish. During periods that are
cold and dry, you need to water only about once a month. Let the
soil dry out completely between watering. Over-watering can lead
to root rot and can kill a snake plant. I can’t stress this enough. If
you typically forget to water your plants, snake plants are perfect
for you!
4 | SNAKE PLANT

Snake plants do well in a variety of humidity and temperature
conditions. But they are best suited for an environment that stays
above 50° F. They don’t tolerate frost well, and cold temperatures
can lead to scarring on their leaves that cannot be reversed.
PEST PROBLEMS
Snakes plants are vulnerable to the
run-of-the-mill houseplant
pests: mealybugs, spider mites, and
fungus gnats. You can simply wipe
off spider mites and treat mealybugs
with rubbing alcohol. Fungus gnats
are a bit trickier and can be treated
using a concentrated solution of dish
soap and water. Taking the plant out
of the pot, giving it a good soapy
soak, and repotting with fresh dry soil
should help. If you have a particularly
bad infestation, you can try an insect
control formula made for
houseplants or sticky stakes.
4 | SNAKE PLANT
SOIL NEEDS
Any well-draining cactus or succulent soil will do. I also use a
lightweight houseplant soil with some perlite and peat moss
added to it. Because snake plants prefer well-draining soil and are
prone to root rot, having a planter with a hole and drainage saucer
is best. However, I have them in a variety of planters without holes.
For those planters, I simply add a layer of perlite or pebbles to the
bottom of the pot (bigger pots get a thicker layer). This ensures the
roots aren’t sitting in a puddle of water.
GROWTH RATE & FERTILIZER

The most popular varieties you’re likely to find in stores grow to be
around 2 feet, with some surpassing 3 feet. The cylindrical snake
plant can grow up to 7 feet. Generally snake plants grow slower
indoors. However, sunlight can help them grow faster.
As for fertilizer, I give all of my snake plants a bit of my

concentrated liquid indoor houseplant fertilizer. I fertilize every
month or so during the warmer months—just when I'm doing my
normal watering. However, it isn’t necessary to fertilize them—I just
like giving all of the gang a little love.
4 | SNAKE PLANT
HOW TO REPOT
Unlike a lot of houseplants, snake plants love to be pot bound, so
they don’t necessarily need to be repotted frequently. I don’t repot
my snake plants until they look way too big for the pot they’re in. I
also repot when I am dividing my snake plants. Because they can
grow very quickly under the right conditions, you may need to
divide your snake plants every year or so.
Repotting a snake plant is just like any other plant. I think it’s easier
because the leaves are so much sturdier. Simply take the plant out
of its pot and gently knock off all of the loose dirt. Then put a layer
of soil down in the new pot, set the plant in, and add fresh well-
draining soil, covering the roots. I like to plant my snakes a bit
deeper so the taller leaves have a lot of support. And since snake
plants like to be pot bound, use a pot that is only a bit bigger.
PROPAGATION
The first way to propagate snake plants is by rhizome. Rhizomes
are the whiteish root-like stem structures that connect the mother
plant to its new babies. The rhizomes spread just above or below
ground and sprout new plants.
4 | SNAKE PLANT
I’ve taken a few pics of a small rhizome starting to sprout from the
mother plant below. To propagate a snake plant by rhizome, use a
clean, sharp knife to cut the rhizome off of the main plant. Let the
rhizome callous over for a few days before planting it.
If you have a very large snake plant, the best method is likely to
propagate it by division. This is similar to propagating it by rhizome
and is the method I used recently on my very large snake plant in
the living room. To divide a plant, take the entire plant out on a tarp
in the living room, brush off the dirt, and find the largest
connection by rhizome. Simply cut the plant in half at the main
rhizome and gently separate all of the roots. Then I replant them.
(The best practice is to wait a few days for the fresh cuts to harden
over a bit, but it isn't totally necessary.)
4 | SNAKE PLANT
Propagating a snake plant in water is

another option. This method is easiest
but generally takes the longest. I like
to propagate snake plant cuttings by
rooting them in water when one plant
has a wonky leaf I want to snip off. I
simply cut the leave off down near the
soil and put it in water. Mason jars or
vases are both good options,
especially since the cuttings can
sometimes be top heavy. I keep mine
in indirect light and change the water
every week or so. Plant the cutting
when roots sprout.
4 | SNAKE PLANT
To propagate using cuttings, snip a

leaf off of an existing plant near the
soil line. Then cut that leaf in to
smaller pieces. It’s very important to
keep track of which end was the
bottom; they won’t grow if you put
the top end down in the soil. Let the
cut leaves callus over for a few days,
then plant each cutting with the right
end down in well-draining soil.
They’ll begin to root, but it can take a
month or so and then another month
for new leaf growth. It’s a cheap way
to start tons of new plants!
CHAPTER 5
PEPEROMIA
5 | PEPEROMIA
HOW TO CARE FOR PEPEROMIA

I’m surprised at how much I don’t see people recommending
peperomia plants. They are patient, forgiving, and adorable, and
with over 1,500 species, you’re sure to find something you like. And
pet parents rejoice—these are not poisonous to pets, so you don’t
have to get creative with keeping them out of reach.
Peperomias are lovely small plants with a variety of beautiful

leaves. “Peperomia” is the scientific name. Since there are so many
varieties, you’ll probably see a sign saying something like “various
peperomia” at your nursery. You might have heard varieties
referred to by the names radiator plants or baby rubber plants.
MOST COMMON VARIETIES

There are loads of different varieties of Peperomia. Here are four of
the most common varieties you might see at your local nursery.
1. Peperomia Obtusifolia: This variety is often called the baby

rubber plant because the plants have leaves with a smooth,
rubbery look to them. And the plants stay quite small, unlike other
plants with leaves like these. Leaves are often variegated with
greens and yellows.
5 | PEPEROMIA
2. Peperomia Argyreia (aka watermelon peperomia) is a beautiful

variety with circular-shaped leaves. The leaves are smooth and
shiny looking with gray/silverish “stripes” that give the leaves a
watermelon-like pattern.
3. Peperomia Clusifolia (aka red

edge or rainbow peperomia) has
beautiful succulent-looking leaves
with variegated with greens and
yellows and red edging. It looks
very similar to the baby rubber
plant variety.
4. Peperomia Caperata, or ripple

peperomia, is the variety I see the
most at local nurseries labeled
"assorted peperomia." The leaves
have a crinkly texture and a bit of a
waxy look. Some varieties have
leaves with a red tint (red luna),
some have a grayish tint, and some
of a bold green color (emerald
ripple).
5 | PEPEROMIA
SOIL & WATER NEEDS

Peperomia plants enjoy a potting soil that is both well-aerated and
well-draining. I have two planted in a well-draining succulent
mix with some peat moss added, and they’re both doing really
well. Using a good soil will help protect the roots from rot and give
them some extra air.
This plant evidently does best when watered from its roots. To do
this, sit your pot in a pan of water for 5 minutes every week or so.
But—full disclosure—I do not do that and mine have been fine. Just
avoid watering directly into the crown of the plant. You should also
let the soil dry out before you water your peperomia again.
Peperomia plants have thick, juicy-looking leaves that store water,
much like succulents. Oh, and you can give them a normal
houseplant fertilizer while they are actively growing.
LIGHT REQUIREMENTS
Peperomia is flexible with light as long as you don’t have it in an
extremely dark or extremely bright area. Anywhere with low-to-
medium, medium, or medium-to-high light is fine. Peperomia pals
can also grow under fluorescent lights.
5 | PEPEROMIA

Most peperomia varieties you’ll find at your local nursery will do
well in a variety of normal household temperatures. Don’t let these
plants be exposed to cold or drafts from windows; give them a
stable home. Since they first grew in rainforests, peperomia plants
enjoy humidity, so give them a spritz or water here and there!
POTTING, PRUNING, & FERTILIZING

These plants enjoy being pot-bound, so don’t hurry to repot your
peperomia as soon as it grows a bit. Especially since their root
system is shallow, they can do well in smaller indoor pots or
dishes. You generally shouldn’t have to re-pot peperomia since the
plants stay fairly small and like being cozy.
However, you can prune your peperomia by pinching or snipping

off pieces at the stem. The stem will sprout new growth at the
nearest node below the cut. Like a lot of similar low-maintenance
plants, peperomia will thank you for occasional fertilizer, but they
aren’t heavy feeders. Just your run-of-the-mill houseplant fertilizer
will work well. I use a concentrated ferilizer with a dropper that I
dilute in a watering can.
5 | PEPEROMIA
PROPAGATION
You can propagate peperomia plants one of two ways: by division
or by cutting. To propagate by division, simply cut the plant into
smaller pieces, making sure each new piece has sufficient root
systems. Then plant in their own containers and take care of them
as normal.
To propagate by cutting, cut off a leaf and stem, plant it, and water
it enough to keep it damp. You can cover it with a plastic bag to
retain moisture and humidity, but make sure to take it off every so
often to circulate air. Replant once new growth emerges and the
new plant roots and forms.
CHAPTER 6
MONSTERA
6 | MONSTERA
HOW TO CARE FOR MONSTERA PLANTS

What kind of plant loving blogger would I be if I didn’t have a post
about caring monstera deliciosa? The stunning monstera,
sometimes also referred to as the swiss cheese plant, is native to
Central America and can help turn any suburban home into a
tropical oasis. (I would know.) They are also non-toxic to cats and
dogs, so bonus points for the pet parents.
IS IT A SPLIT-LEAF PHILODENDRON?
No! This stumped me for a while. The first monstera deliciosa plant
I bought was actually labeled as a “split leaf philodendron.” But
although the monstera deliciosa is part of the same family
(Araceae) as philodendron, they are totally different plants. The
monstera deliciosa belongs to the monstera genus, while
philodendron plants belong to the philodendron genus.
The two plants are often confused for one another when it comes
to naming conventions, probably because the monstera deliciosa
does have some similarities in appearance with the lacey tree
philodendron (philodendron bipinnatifidum), which also has a split-
leaf look. Nevertheless, they are totally different plants.
6 | MONSTERA
LIGHT REQUIREMENTS
This monstera plant is famous for the holes in its leaves—holes
that sometimes grow so large as the leaf grows that they split the
leaf. The leaves have this pattern as a way of adapting to harsh
conditions in the rainforest—think heavy rain and whatnot.
But although the tropical

monstera deliciosa comes
from the rainforest, it’s a
perfectly adaptable plant that
grows quite well indoors as a
houseplant. Monsteras thrive
in bright, indirect sunlight.
Don’t keep this plant in a room
that gets only a bit of sunlight.
I have mine in a corner of a
room that gets decent light in
the morning and indirect
bright light all afternoon.
6 | MONSTERA
WATERING & SOIL NEEDS

Monsteras are fairly low maintenance when it comes to watering.
While they are actively growing during the spring and summer,
you should water them as soon as the soil dries out. It wouldn't
hurt if you forget, but watering promptly will help to encourage
new growth. Like other houseplants, you only need to water once
every few weeks in the winter.
The monstera tolerates most houseplant soils. I have mine in a

well-draining indoor potting soil. If you don’t have a drainage hole
in your pot, build some drainage in using perlite so the roots aren’t
sitting in water. You can also help to avoid this problem by not
overwatering. Generally, if your plant’s top 2 inches of soil are dry,
it needs a drink. You can add a bit of houseplant fertilizer once a
month or so during the spring and summer to encourage growth.

Because it originates from the rainforest, the monstera deliciosa
likes warmer temperatures. It adapts well to most normal home
temperatures. It will not be happy in the cold, though. It likes high
humidity but will do well with average household humidity.
6 | MONSTERA
If you don’t want to increase the humidity of your entire room or

home, you can mist the leaves to help retain moisture.
Occasionally on humid summer days, I set my monstera just
outside on the patio to get a bit of nice heat and humidity.
However, don’t yank this plant around too much by drastically

changing up its conditions. You can usually keep a stable
environment for your monstera by just avoiding heat or cooling
registers in the home. Low humidity or harsh forced air from HVAC
registers can lead to browning tips on the leaves.
PRUNING, REPOTTING, & TRAINING

The best way to prune an unruly monstera is to cut back stems at
the nodes in the spring. As your plant grows, you'll want to repot it
every year or so. If you’re caring for it perfectly and it is otherwise
not doing great (e.g., brown-tipped leaves), it may be unhappily
potbound and need a bigger home. The monstera has aerial roots
to help support the plant as it grows. If you do nothing with the
roots, the plant will spread out as it grows, needing a big space. If
you’d like to train your monstera to grow tall, however, you need to
plant it with a moss pole. This will give the aerial roots something
to grab on to for support.
6 | MONSTERA
PROPAGATION
Propagating your monstera from
cuttings is easy. In the spring or
summer, cut a leaf and stem at the
node. You can either plant the cutting
in moist soil and keep moist until it
begins rooting, or you can put the
cuttings in water. The cuttings should
root in either moist soil or water in just
a few weeks.
WILL IT GROW FRUIT?

Even if you follow all of these care tips, your plant probably won't
grow fruit. Especially if you’re growing it as a houseplant. That’s
because the plants must flower before growing fruit, and they
rarely flower indoors. But, you never know. If you’re growing the
monstera deliciosa outdoors in an area that mimics the plants
natural habitat, you may be lucky enough to have your plant flower
and fruit.
CHAPTER 7
PHILODENDRON
7 | PHILODENDRON
HOW TO CARE FOR PHILODENDRON

Philodendrons are durable, patient, and tolerant of your plant
misgivings. Philodendron is actually name of a large genus of
plants in the Araceae family. In fact, it’s the second-largest genus
in the family. The most common houseplant Philodendron variety
is probably the heart-leaf Philodendron, or Philodendron
hederaceum. This plant is often confused with the pothos plant.
They share a similar leaf shape, but

they are totally different plants.
Pothos plants typically have very
shiny, waxy-looking leaves. The
heart-leaf Philodendron leaves
have a more matte finish. One cool
thing about Philodendrons is that
they have juvenile leaves and adult
leaves. The plant gradually morphs
from juvenile to adult over its life,
so you probably won't notice.
However, it’s a trait that has made
differentiating between different
species difficult.
7 | PHILODENDRON
TYPES & VARIETIES

There are two main types of Philodendron plants: vining/trailing
plants and non-climbers that grow up and out. Heart-leaf is an
example of a type that will vine or trail and looks likely in a hanging
basket. The Fiddle-Leaf Philodendron (which is not a fiddle-leaf fig)
and Xanadu Philodendron are examples of plants that grow up and
out—in fact, they can grow two times as wide as they do tall.
Philodendrons have both aerial and

subterranean roots. Aerial roots grow
from the plant’s nodes and help the
plant attach itself to things and collect
nutrients. Subterranean roots are what
you typically think of when you think of
plant roots. Aerial roots help the
climbing varieties climb. You can attach
them to something like a pole or twine
to help the plant climb. Likewise, you
can put the stem and aerial root back
into the pot and cover with a bit of soil.
This will re-root and begin to grow,
giving the plant a fuller appearance.
7 | PHILODENDRON
LIGHT REQUIREMENTS
Philodendrons generally prefer medium light and thrive in bright,
indirect sunlight. They are well-known for their ability to tolerate
low light, but they won’t thrive. As with pothos plants, leaves might
develop smaller, and the stems might become leggier and sparse.
Too much direct sunlight with burn the leaves. Find yourself a
sunny window and you’ll be good to go.

These plants do well in a variety of normal home humidity levels.
Misting your little lovelies with a water bottle will promote growth
by adding a bit of humidity, though. You can give your
Philodendron a bit of fertilizer while it’s actively during during the
spring, summer, and wall. Philodendrons also do well in normal
home temperatures. They won’t do well the colder it gets and will
die under freezing.
ROOTS, SOIL, & WATER

Watering is easy. You should let the soil dry out between watering.
Don’t over-water and avoid soggy soil—one tell-tale sign of over-
watering is the leaves turning yellow and drooping. Under-
watering? Leaves browning, crinkling, and falling off.
7 | PHILODENDRON
You can give your Philodendron a bit of fertilizer while it’s actively
during during the spring, summer, and fall. All Philodendrons like
well-draining soil. Philodendron friends also like to be snug in
their pots. Don’t plant them in pots that are too big. When their
roots become really compact, re-home them into something a
few inches bigger. Good drainage is critical to Philodendron
health. Use a well-draining, high-quality potting soil.
TOXICITY
Philodendron toxicity risk in
children is low, and fatal
poisoning is extremely rare. One
study of 127 children found only
one child showed mild side
effects. Opinions about toxicity
in cats are also mixed. As with
most plants, it’s probably best to
keep them away from your
kitties and little kids. Thankfully
many Philodendrons look
beautiful hanging out of reach.
7 | PHILODENDRON
PROPAGATION
Philodendron propagation is pretty easy but can differ depending
on the plant type. Methods include rooting stem cuttings, air
layering, and removing babies from a parent plant. To propagate
by cuttings, cut a stem with a few nodes on it and stick it down in
to a small pot with sandy soil. You can also remove babies (offsets)
from their mother plants to create new plants. Wait until the baby
has its own sufficient root system, though.
If you’re propagating a trailing variety, you can grow roots by

putting the cutting in a jar of water. They can also successfully root
at a node that comes into contact with soil. Take a stem from an
existing plant—don’t cut it off—and lay it over another pot with soil
in it. Gently bury the node areas and water. After 1–2 months, it
should root. You can then cut the stem to separate the two plants.
CHAPTER 8
RUBBER PLANT
8 | RUBBER PLANT
HOW TO CARE FOR A RUBBER PLANT

The rubber plant (aka Ficus elastica or rubber fig) is a beautiful and
bold houseplant with glossy green rubbery looking leaves—some
quite large. Rubber plants come in different varieties, and some
can even grow up to 10 feet in a container! Some varieties have
branches that spread out more. While most have green leaves,
some have red-tinted or variegated pattern leaves.
Rubber plants like to be pot-

bound, and like other
houseplants, the best time to
repot them is in the spring.
However, I repotted my very
large rubber plant this past winter
because I couldn’t wait any
longer. It had completely
outgrown its pot and really
needed more space. It is still
doing great! These plants are
considered mildly toxic and
should be kept away from pets
and children.
8 | RUBBER PLANT
WATERING NEEDS
Rubber plants don’t require a lot of water. Over-watering is one of
the main things you should avoid. If the plant’s leaves begin
drooping and turning yellow, you’re probably over-watering. (But
don’t worry if this just happens occasionally; it’s normal for aging
leaves to drop off.)
If your plant gets thirsty, its leaves will begin looking soft, which is
a noticeable change from the firm, shiny leaves of a healthy plant.
Try not to let it get this thirsty. It doesn’t absolutely need to be
fertilized, but you can house a diluted houseplant fertilizer monthly
during the spring and summer when the plant is active and needy.
Rubber plants tolerate dry soil very well. This is a good plant for
you if you have a harder time remembering to water. You can even
let its soil dry out completely between waterings and it will be fine.
You can water less when its in a cooler spot with lower light.
SOIL NEEDS
Rubber plants enjoy well-draining, well-aerated (something with
peat moss) soil and a pot with a drainage hole since they are prone
to root rot.
8 | RUBBER PLANT
LIGHT, TEMPERATURE, & HUMIDITY

I have my large rubber plant in a medium indirect light area, and
it’s still growing like a weed. They are forgiving when it comes to
temperature and humidity, too. Rubber plants do well in a range of
normal household temperatures but do appreciate warmth during
the day. Shoot for at least 50° F and no colder. They like normal
household humidity levels, and they like to get comfortable in one
space. Abruptly changing lighting conditions or temperature can
shock your plant, causing it to drop leaves.
PRUNING, PESTS, & CLEANING

To prune, use shears to cut just above a node. A node is where a
leaf grows out of a stem or where a stem grows out of another
stem. New growth will eventually begin to appear from the node
below the cut. If you’d like to encourage your rubber plant to grow
out, cut off the main stem's tip to encourage side branch growth.
Normal household plant pets can infest the rubber plant

(mealybugs, etc.), but they aren’t especially vulnerable. It can,
however, develop sooty mold, which is a black dusty mold that
can grow on leaves. Remove it by wiping the leaves with a diluted
dish soap mixture.
8 | RUBBER PLANT
Since these leaves are large and shiny, they can be dust magnets.
They also very clearly show water spots. Keep your leaves
beautiful by wiping them down with a damp cloth—a microfiber
cloth will help prevent water spots.
PROPAGATION
Rubber plants can be propagated
by their stem. Simply cut them off
at the desired point (remember
the bit about how they grow back
through nodes), and then stick that
cutting into damp soil. Using a
rooting hormone powder will help
the plant root. Keep the soil damp
and humidity levels high.
You can do this by making a mini

greenhouse using a clear gallon
bag. Make sure you let them air
out every few days or they'll begin
to mold. Rubber plants can also be
propagated through air layering.
AND THAT'S A WRAP!
For more plant care tips, propagation guides, and DIY planter
ideas, visit me at my blog, bybrittanygoldwyn.com.
bybrittanygoldwyn@gmail.com
instagram.com/brittanymerth
pinterest.com/bybrittanyg
facebook.com/bybrittanyg

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A ROOKIE'S GUIDE:

CARING FOR 8 POPULAR

Everything you need to

Hi there, fellow plant lover!

Many people think they can't take care

This guide outlines 8 easy-to-care-for

© 2019, by Brittany Goldwyn 4

HOW TO CARE FOR POTHOS

You might hear it called golden

All varieties are poisonous if

Pothos varieties with patterns on the leaves (referred to as

TEMPERATURE & HUMIDITY NEEDS

WATERING YOUR POTHOS

Don’t over-water. Pothos plants are prone to root rot from

Because those planters don’t have drainage holes, I add drainage

FERTILIZING POTHOS PLANTS

REPOTTING & PRUNING

Step 1: Cut a few pieces or strands

Step 2: Stick the cut end of the pieces

Step 3: After a few weeks, you’ll see

If it looks a bit weepy for a few days, don’t

HOW TO CARE FOR STRING OF PEARLS

If you’re wondering how to plant in pots without drainage holes,

WATERING YOUR STRING OF PEARLS

TEMPERATURE & HUMIDITY NEEDS

String of pearls plants do not tolerant the cold. Don’t leave it

HOW TO GET A STRING OF PEARLS TO BLOOM

REPOTTING & PRUNING

However, as with all houseplants, a little grooming never hurts!

You should repot your string of pearls when it becomes root

TOXICITY & PESTS

HOW TO CARE FOR A WANDERING JEW PLANT

WHERE DOES THE NAME COME FROM?

According to the Jewish Telegraphic Agency, “its name calls to

WAIT, SO IS IT COOL TO USE THE NAME?

This motif of the wandering Jew also took form as an 1844

So why, exactly, is a plant called the wandering jew? Well…we’re

WANDERING JEW PLANT VARIETIES

Tradescantia Zebrina (right) is the

Finally, the Tradescantia Pallida (commonly known as purple

TEMPERATURE & HUMIDITY

WATER & FERTILIZER NEEDS

PRUNING, GROOMING, & REPOTTING

The second way is by rooting cuttings in water. I love seeing the

The third way to grow a new

HOW TO TAKE CARE OF A SNAKE PLANT

While I find that my snake plants in high-, indirect-light areas grow

TEMPERATURE & HUMIDITY

GROWTH RATE & FERTILIZER

As for fertilizer, I give all of my snake plants a bit of my

Propagating a snake plant in water is

To propagate using cuttings, snip a

HOW TO CARE FOR PEPEROMIA

Peperomias are lovely small plants with a variety of beautiful

MOST COMMON VARIETIES

1. Peperomia Obtusifolia: This variety is often called the baby

2. Peperomia Argyreia (aka watermelon peperomia) is a beautiful

3. Peperomia Clusifolia (aka red

4. Peperomia Caperata, or ripple

SOIL & WATER NEEDS