Knitting 3

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Dimensional characteristics of knit fabrics

In case of knit fabrics, the fabric dimensions (width and length) are completely determined
by the knitted loop length.

During the knitting process, strains are imparted to the fabric as it comes off the knitting
machine, and subsequent recovery from these strains occurs.

W = wale spacing

C = course spacing

AB = stitch length, 𝑙 in mm (i.e. loop length)

S = number of stitches per square cm, stitch density

W = wales/cm = 1/W

c = courses/cm = 1/C

the dimension of plain knitted fabric is related as below:


i) Courses per unit length is inversely proportional to stitch length
1
c ∝
𝑙
𝐾𝑐
or, c = 𝑙
ii) Wales per unit width is inversely proportional to stitch length
1
w ∝
𝑙
𝐾𝑤
or, w =
𝑙
iii) Stitches or loops per unit area is inversely proportional to the square of stitch
length
1
S∝
𝑙2
𝐾𝑠
or, S=
𝑙2

iv) Loop shape factor;


R = Courses per unit length / Wales per unit length
C
=
W
Kc
= Kw
If stitch density (loops per square metre) , loop length (mm) and yarn linear density, the Areal
density of the knitted fabric can be calculated as,

Areal density = S x 𝑙 x tex x 10−6 grams/𝑚2

( 1 Km = 10−6 𝑚𝑚 )

If S is in stitches/𝑐𝑚2 , then

S x 104 x 𝑙 x tex
Areal density =
106
𝑆𝑙 𝑡𝑒𝑥
=
100
𝐾𝑠
Also, S =
𝑙2
𝐾𝑠 𝑙 𝑡𝑒𝑥
So, areal density =
𝑙 2x 100
𝐾𝑠 x 𝑡𝑒𝑥
= g/𝑚2
100 𝑙

Constants for plain knitted worsted fabrics at different stable states (SI units)

Fabric state Ks Kc Kw Kc/Kw


Dry-relaxed 1900 50 38 1.31
Wet-relaxed 2160 53 41 1.29
Finished- 2360 56 42.2 1.32
relaxed

Problem 01

Calculate the production per hour of a single jersey circular knitting machine from the given
data:
Machine Gauge 24
Machine Dia 30 inches
Number of Feeders 90
Machine RPM 26
Yarn Count 24
Stitch length 4 mm
Efficiency 85%

Solution:

First we will calculate number of needles and number of stitches produced in one revolution.
This would help us in calculating the total length of yarn consumed in one revolution.

Number of needles =  x machine dia x gauge


= 3. 14 x 30 x 24
=2260
(exact 2260.8 but needles are always in even number
so we will take nearest even figure)

Number of stitches produced in one revolution = Number of needles x number of feeders


= 2260 x 90
= 203400
Yarn Consumption (in yards) in one hour

= number of stitches x Stitch length x RPM x 60


1000

= 203400 x 4 x 26 x 60
1000
= 1269216 m
= 1388015 yd

Weight of cotton yarn = length of yarn


Count x 840

= 1388015
840 x 24
= 68.85 lbs
= 31.23 Kg

In 85% Efficiency, produced yarn weight = 31.23 x 85%


= 26.55 Kg
Answer: this machine can produce 26.55 Kg fabric in one hour at 85 % efficiency .

Problem 02

For filament yarn, calculate nominal production of a single jersey-knitting machine per hour
from the data given:
Machine Gauge 28
Machine Dia 26 inches
Number of Feeders 120
Machine RPM 30
Yarn Count 75D
Stitch length 4.5 mm
Efficiency 85%

Solution:
First we will calculate number of needles and number of stitches produced in one revolution.
This would help us in calculating the total length of yarn consumed in one revolution.

Number of needles =  x machine dia x gauge


= 3.14 x 26 x 28
=2286
(exact 2285.92 but needles are always in even number so we will take
nearest even figure)
Number of stitches produced in one revolution = Number of needles x number of feeders
= 2286 x 120
= 274320

Yarn Consumption (in metre) in one hour

= number of stitches x Stitch length x RPM x 60


1000

= 274320 x 4.5 x 30 x 60
1000
= 2221992 m

Weight of filament in grams = Length in meters x denier


9000

= 2221992 x75
9000
Answer =18516 gm
=18.516 Kg

At 85% Efficiency, produced yarn weight = 18.516 x 85%


=15.74 Kg

Answer: this machine can produce 15.74 Kg fabric in one hour at 85 % efficiency

optimum knitting conditions ,

i) Yarn Tex
ii) Loop length
iii) Course length
iv) Courses per cm
v) Wales per cm
vi) GSM
Problem 3 For a plain knitted machine of 24 gauge, 30” diameter, 96 feeders and 35
rpm speed, find out the optimum knitting conditions. (consider Kc = 5.5 and Kw= 4.2)
100 2
Solution: i) Tex = ( )
𝐺
100 2
=
24
= 17.3 Tex

≈ 18 Tex

vii) Loop length :

For optimum knitting, tightness factor = 15

𝑡𝑒𝑥
i.e. 15 =
𝑙

18
=
15
= 0.28 cm

viii) Course length = loop length x no. of needles

= 0.28 x π x DG

= 633.4 cm

𝐾𝑐
ix) Courses per cm =
𝑙
5.5
=
0.28

= 19.5
𝐾𝑤
x) Wales per cm =
𝑙
4.2
=
0.28

= 14.9
𝐾𝑠 x tex
xi) GSM =
10 𝑙
Again, Ks= Kc x Kw

= 5.5 x 4.2 = 23.10


23.10 x 18
So, GSM = = 148.5
10 x 0.28

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