Internship Report - GMS Textiles Ltd. - BUBT

Department of Textile Engineering
Course Code: TXE 448

Course Title: Industrial Training & Practice.
Semester: Spring, 2023
Industrial Attachment Report on

“GMS Textiles Ltd.”
Submitted by:
Name ID Intake
Alif Sheikh 18192107032 26
Mehady Hasan 18192107031 26
Md. Rubel Hossen 18192107030 26
Omor Faruk Limon 18192107010 26
Supervised by:
Md. Razib Sheikh

Assistant Professor
Bangladesh University of Business and Technology (BUBT)

APPROVAL
This internship report on “GMS Textiles Ltd.”, submitted by Alif Sheikh, Mehady Hasan,
Md. Rubel Hossen and Omor Faruk Limon to the Department of Textile Engineering,
Bangladesh University of Business & Technology (BUBT), has been accepted as
satisfactory for the partial fulfillment of the requirements for the degree of B.Sc. in Textile
Engineering and approved as to its style and contents. This presentation has been held on...
BOARD OF EXAMINATIONS
Supervisor:
Md. Razib Sheikh
Assistant Professor
Chairman (Acting):
Abdullah Bin Samad
Assistant Professor
i
LETTER OF TRANSMITTAL
Date:
To
The Chairman
Bangladesh University of Business & Technology (BUBT)
Rupnagar R/A, Mirpur-2, Dhaka-1216, Bangladesh
Subject: Approval of Project Report of B.Sc. in textile Engineering program.
Dear Sir,
With due respect, we are the students of Textile Engineering, Bangladesh University of
Business and Technology (BUBT), have successfully completed our industrial attachment.
We are submitting our industrial attachment on "GMS Textiles Ltd". As part of the credit
requirement for B.Sc. Degree to be awarded by Bangladesh University of Business &
Technology.
We, therefore, request and expect that, you will appreciate us with any sort of
recommendation & valued suggestion and will cordially receive this industrial attachment
for your kind assessment.
Sincerely yours,
Name ID Intake Signature
Alif Sheikh 18192107032 26
Mehady Hasan 18192107031 26
Md. Rubel Hossen 18192107030 26
Omor Faruk Limon 18192107010 26
Program: B.Sc. in Textile Engineering

Bangladesh University of Business & Technology (BUBT)
ii
ACKNOWLEDGEMENT
At first my gratefulness goes to Almighty Allah to give me strength and ability to complete
the industrial training and this report. May your name be exalted, honored, and glorified.
Industrial Attachment Course is an academic function of the Bangladesh University of

Business and Technology (BUBT). We are highly delighted to express our regards &
gratitude to our honorable teacher Abdullah Bin Samad (Assistant Professor &
Chairman (Acting), Department of Textile Engineering, Bangladesh University of
Business and Technology) for providing us the chance to complete my Industrial
Attachment in “GMS Textiles Ltd.”
Special thanks to my supervising teacher Assistant Professor, Md. Razib Sheikh

(Department of Textile Engineering) to whom I am extremely indebted for his tremendous
support and guidance throughout my training period, without whose help it would not have
been possible to complete the training successfully.
We also take the opportunity to express our sincerest gratitude to the management,
administration & personnel of “GMS Textiles Ltd.” for their kind assistance. Heartfelt
thanks go to Md. Humayun Kobir Sir, HR & Admin, GMS Textiles Ltd. for their
permission & excellent cooperation during the period of our training. The generous
support is greatly appreciated. We are also very much grateful to the “GMS Textiles Ltd.”
Authority for allowing us to do our internship work in their factory.
Above all, we would like to thank our entire course mate at Bangladesh University of
Business and Technology (BUBT), who took part in this discussion while completing the
course work.
Finally, we would like to acknowledge that we remain responsible for the inadequacies &
errors, which doubtless remain in the following report.
iii
TABLE OF CONTENTS
CONTENTS PAGE
Approval i
Letter of Transmittal ii
Acknowledgement iii
CHAPTER
CHAPTER 1: PROJECT DESCRIPTION 1-9

1.1 Introducing of GMS Textiles Ltd. 1
1.2 Infrastructure 2
1.3 Company Profile 3
1.4 Mission and Vision of GMS Textiles Ltd. 3
1.5 Company Map 4
1.6 Environmental Policy of GMS Textiles Ltd. 5
1.7 Quality Policy of GMS Textiles Ltd. 5
1.8 Green Features of GMS Textiles Ltd. 5
1.9 Production Capacity 6
1.10 Certificate of GMS Textiles Ltd. 6
1.11 The Project's Development History 7
1.12 Different Departments 7
1.13 Additional Facilities 8
1.14 Observations 8
1.15 Management Methodology 8
1.16 Major Consumers GMS Textiles Ltd. 9
1.17 Remarks 9
iv
CHAPTER 2: MANPOWER MANAGEMENT 10-14
2.1 Factory Organogram 10
2.2 Organogram of Knitting Section 11
2.3 Organogram of Dyeing Section 12
2.4 Organogram of Dyeing Finishing Section 12
2.5 Organogram of Prining Section 13
2.6 Shifting System 13
2.7 Management Syestem 14
2.8 Remarks 14
CHAPTER 3: MACHINE DESCRIPTION 15-19

3.1 Knitting Section 15
3.2 Dyeing Section 16
3.3 Dyeing Finishing Section 17
3.4 Cutting Section 18
3.5 Sewing Section 19
3.6 Remarks 19
CHAPTER 4: RAW MATERIALS 20-24

4.1 Raw Materials for Knitting Section 20
4.1.1 Types of Yarn used in Industry 20
4.1.2 Types of Knitted fabric used in Industry 20
4.2 Raw Materials for Dyeing 21
4.2.1 Most Commonly used Dyes 21
4.2.2 Dyes and Brightener Used in GMS Textiles Ltd. 21
4.2.3 Chemicals used in GMS Textiles Ltd. 22
4.3 Raw Materials for Garments Section 23
4.4 Remarks 24
v
CHAPTER 5: KITTING SECTION 25-35
5.1 Introduction 25
5.2 Process Flow chart of Knitting 25
5.3 Layout of Knitting Section 26
5.4 Classification of Knitting Machines 27
5.5 Different Parts of Circular Knitting Machine & Their Function 27
5.6 Yarn passage path diagram of Circular and flat Knitting M/C 28
5.7 Classification of weft Knitted fabrics 29
5.7.1 Single Jersey fabric 29
5.7.2 Rib (Double Jersey) knit fabric 29
5.7.3 Fleece fabric 29
5.7.4 Terry fabric 29
5.7.5 Pique fabric 29
5.7.6 Lacoste fabric 29
5.8 Types of collar & cuff 30
5.9 Knit Card 30
5.9.1 Information’s are present in the Knit card 30
5.10 Important Parameters Required for Controlling during Knitting 32
5.11 Considerable points to produce Knit fabric 32
5.12 Stitch length 32
5.12.1 Stitch length can be controlled 32
5.13 GSM 32
5.13.1 GSM Depends on 33
5.14 Comparison of count & GSM for different types of fabrics 33
5.15 Typical Knitting Composition 34
5.16 Oiling system of Knitting machine 35
vi
CHAPTER 6: DYEING LAB 36-39
6.1 Introduction 36
6.2 Process Flow chart of Dyeing Lab 36
6.3 Lap dip 37
6.4 Spectrophotometer 37
6.4.1 Function of Spectrophotometer 37
6.5 Analysis of CMC report 38
6.6 Pantone book 39
6.6.1 Types of Pantone book 39
6.7 Double part dyeing 39
6.8 Cross dyeing 39
CHAPTER 7: DYEING SECTION 40-45

7.1 Introduction 40
7.2 Process Flow chart of Dyeing Section 40
7.3 Layout of Dyeing section 41
7.4 Batch Card 42
7.4.1 Information’s are present in the Batch card 42
7.5 Different pH for dyeing process 42
7.6 Production Parameters 42
7.7 Dyeing process of 100% cotton fabric 43
7.8 Dyeing process of Double part Dyeing 44
7.9 Cycle Time 44
7.9.1 Importance of Cycle Time 44
7.10 Typical Dyeing Composition 45
CHAPTER 8: DYEING FINISHING SECTION 46-49

8.1 Introduction 46
8.2 Process flow chart of Dyeing Finishing section 46
vii
8.3 Layout of Dyeing finishing Section 47
8.4 De-watering/Hydro Machine 47
8.4.1 Function of De- watering/Hydro Machine 47
8.5 Slitting Machine 47
8.5.1 Function of Slitting Machine 48
8.6 Description of Dryer machine 48
8.6.1 Function of Dryer Machine 48
8.7 Description of Stenter Machine 48
8.7.1 Function of Stenter Machine 48
8.8 Description of Compactor Machine 48
8.8.1 Function of Compactor Machine 49
8.9 Heat Setting 49
8.9.1 Importance of Heat setting 49
8.9.2 Heat setting parameter 49
CHAPTER 9: PRINTING SECTION 50-51

9.1 Introduction 50
9.2 Process Flow chart of Printing 50
9.3 Classification of Printing 51
9.4 Types of Printing 51
9.5 Curing Temperature 51
CHAPTER 10: CUTTING SECTION 52-54

10.1 Introduction 52
10.2 Process flow chart of Cutting section 52
10.3 Fabric Relaxation 53
10.3.1 Types of Fabric Relaxation 53
10.3.2 Manual Fabric Relaxation time 53
viii
10.3.3 Steam fabric Relaxation Speed, Time, Temperature and 53
Pressure
10.4 Fabric Spreading 54
10.4.1 Standard Spreading & Laying Methodology 54
10.5 Typical Cutting Composition 54
CHAPTER 11: SEWING SECTION 55-58

11.2 Process Flow chart of Sewing section 55
11.3 Layout of Sewing section 56
11.4 Name of Sewing machine 56
11.5 Different Parts of Sewing Machine & Their Function 56
11.6 Stitch 57
11.6.1 Classifications of Stitch 57
11.7 Seam 58
11.7.1 Classifications of Seam 58
CHAPTER 12: INDUSTRIAL ENGINEERING SECTION 59-62

12.2 Process flow chart of Industrial Engineering (IE) 59
12.3 Industrial Engineering (IE) 60
12.4 Responsibility of IE Officer 60
12.5 Work Study 61
12.6 Method Study 61
12.7 Motion Study 61
12.8 Time Study 61
12.9 Cycle Time 61
12.10 Basic Time 61
12.11 Target 61
ix
12.12 Bottleneck 61
12.12.1 Using the following steps can solve bottleneck 62
12.13 Operation Breakdown of a basic T- Shirt 62
CHAPTER 13: FINISHING SECTION 63-65

13.2 Process flow chart of Finishing section 63
13.3 Materials used in Garments finishing 64
13.4 Ironing 64
13.5 Tagging 64
13.6 Folding 64
13.6.1 GMS Textiles Ltd. use following folding style 64
13.7 Packing 64
13.7.1 GMS Textiles Ltd. use following four types of packing system 65
CHAPTER 14: EMBROIDERY SECTION 66-68

14.2 Process flow chart of Embroidery section 66
14.3 Types of Embroidery machine 67
14.4 Types of stitch given to complete Embroidery 67
14.5 Typical Embroidery composition 68
CHAPTER 15: QUALITY ASSURANCE SYSTEM 69-73

15.2 Objective of Quality control 69
15.3 Types of Tests at GMS Testing Lab 69
15.3.1 Physical Tests 69
15.3.2 Chemical Tests 69
15.4 Testing Standard Atmosphere 70
15.5 GMS Lab Standard 70
x
15.6 Faults of Knitting 70
15.7 Faults of Dyeing 71
15.8 Faults of Finishing 72
15.9 Fabric Inspection 73
15.9.1 Calculation of points is done by 73
CHAPTER 16: EFFLUENT TREATMENT PLANT 74-76

16.2 Objective of Effluent Treatment Plant (ETP) 74
16.3 Layout of Effluent Treatment Plant (ETP) 75
16.4 Function of different unit of E.T.P 75
16.5 Biological treatment plant 76
CHAPTER 17: MAINTENANCE 77-78

17.2 Process flow chart of Maintenance 77
17.3 Types of Maintenance 77
17.3.1 Preventive Maintenance 78
17.3.2 Break down Maintenance 78
17.3.3 Schedule Maintenance 78
17.4 Maintenance Tools & Equipment 78
CHAPTER 18: UTILITY SERVICE 79

18.2 Water 79
18.3 Electricity 79
18.4 Boiler 79
18.5 Compressed Air 79
CHAPTER 19: COMPLIANCE POLICY 80-81

xi
19.2 Ethical Trading Initiative (ETI) 80
19.3 ETI Base Code 80
19.4 Compliance Department Activities 80
19.5 Working Conditions 81
CONCLUTION 82
xii
LIST OF TABLES
TABLE NO. TABLE NAME PAGE
1.1 Production capacity of GMS Textiles Ltd. 6
3.1 Total number of Knitting machines 15
3.2 Specifications of Circular Knitting machines 15
3.3 Specifications of Flat Knitting machines 15
3.4 List of Fabric Inspection Tools used in Knitting section 16
3.5 Specifications of Lab dyeing machines 16
3.6 Specifications of Sample dyeing machines 16
3.7 Specifications of Production dyeing machines 17
3.8 Specifications of Slitting machines 17
3.9 Specifications of Squeezer machines 17
3.10 Specifications of Stenter machines 17
3.11 Specifications of Dryer machines 18
3.12 Specifications of Compactor machines 18
3.13 Specifications of Cutting section machines 18
3.14 Specifications of Sewing machines 19
4.1 Types of Knitted Fabric used in Industry 20
4.2 Dyes and Brightener used in GMS Textiles Ltd. 21
4.3 Chemicals used in GMS Textiles Ltd. 22
4.4 Necessary trims & accessories in Garment Section 23
5.1 Circular Knitting machine parts & their function 27
7.1 Different pH for dyeing process 42
7.2 Production parameters of Dyeing Section 42
7.3 Dyeing process for 100% cotton fabric 43
7.4 Dyeing process of Double part dyeing 44

8.1 Heat Setting parameter 49
10.1 Manual fabric Relaxation Time 53
10.2 Steam fabric Relaxation Speed, Time, Temperature and 53

Pressure
10.3 Standard Spreading & Laying Methodology 54
11.1 Different Parts of Sewing machine & their Functions 56
12.1 Operation Breakdown of a basic T- shirt 62
15.1 Faults of Knitting 70
15.2 Faults of Dyeing 71
15.3 Faults of Finishing 72
15.4 4- Point Calculation System 73
16.1 Function of different unit of E.T.P 75
16.2 Micro Organism is the Main Raw Materials for Biological 76

plant
LIST OF FIGURES
FIGURE NO. FIGURE NAME PAGE
1.1 Infrastructure of GMS Textiles Ltd. 2
1.2 Company map 3
1.3 Factory gate 4
1.4 Certificates of GMS Textiles Ltd. 6
1.5 Buyers Logo 9
5.1 Process flow chart of Knitting 25
5.2 Layout of Knitting Ground Floor 26
5.3 Layout of Knitting 1st Floor 26
5.5 Yarn passage path diagram of Circular Knitting machines 28
5.6 Yarn passage path diagram of Flat Knitting machines 28
5.7 Knit Card of GMS Textiles Ltd. 31
6.1 Process flow chart of Dyeing lab 36
6.2 Analysis of CMC report 38
7.1 Process flow chart of Dyeing section 40
7.2 Layout of Dyeing section (Floor- A) 41
7.3 Layout of Dyeing section (Floor- B) 41
8.1 Process flow chart of Dyeing Finishing section 46
8.2 Layout of Dyeing Finishing section 47
9.1 Process flow chart of Printing 50
9.2 Classification of Printing 51
10.1 Process flow chart of Cutting section 52
11.1 Process flow chart of Sewing section 55
11.2 Layout of Sewing section 56
12.1 Process flow chart of Industrial Engineering (IE) 60

13.1 Process flow chart of Finishing section 63
14.1 Process flow chart of Embroidery section 66
16.1 Layout of Effluent Treatment Plant (ETP) 75
17.1 Process flow chart of Maintenance 77

CHAPTER 1
PROJECT DESCRIPTION
1.1 Introducing of GMS Textiles Ltd.

GMS Textiles is a complete GREEN Project & one of the most modern Composite knit
wear factories in Bangladesh. It is a 100% export oriented composite knit textile unit
with the commitment to cater the global needs of 21st century for knit & casual clothing.
The project has employed the state-of-art technology in its every piece of investments.
Aiming at the context of the changing global demand pattern, international environment
on trade specially the withdrawal of quota system and GSP and the availability of
craftsmanship in the country, the project has encompassed the knitting, dyeing and
processing of fabrics and ready-made garments production to be available from one
stop service.
The project ensures sampling to supply of finished ready-made garments all from one
source, ensuring in time delivery & complying quality. The machines & equipment’s
setup for this project are procured from world class brand, names that are renowned for
their high quality, product integrity & dependable production.
The manpower engaged in this project to carry out the day-to-day business is all highly
skilled, purely professional, vastly experienced. The unique combination of organized
managerial and technical term in one hand and latest, advanced and balanced
technology on the other hand made the project one of the tops to be referred in this field
in the country. GMS Textile Ltd. is committed not only to deliver world class product
but also to quality assurance, price affordability & social accountability.
Considering all the above features to learn about the technology of textile manufacture
as well as management & maintenance, GMS Textile Ltd. was surely a good choice.
We feel very lucky to complete our industrial attachment here.
1
1.16 Infrastructure
Figure 1.1: Infrastructure of GMS Textiles Ltd.
2
1.3 Company Profile
Name of the factory : GMS Textiles Ltd.

Owner : Md. Golam Mostafa
Factory Location : Tansutrapur, Kaliakoir, Gazipur 1750, Bangladesh
Year of establishment : 2018
Company types : 100% Export Oriented Knit Composite Industry
Motto : “Striving for Excellence.”
Status : Private Limited Company.
Corporate office : House # 110, Road # 06, New D.O.H.S, Mohakhali, Dhaka-1206
Communication : The Project is easily accessible by road.
No of employees : 7000+
Sponsor : Islami Bank Bangladesh Ltd.
Web site : https://www.gmsbd.com
Gmail : info@gmsbd.com
1.16 Mission and Vision of GMS Textiles Ltd.

Mission:
- To maintain its business operations as one of the leading RMG exporters in

Bangladesh.
Vision:
- To develop technologies and best practices specific to fulfill the global demand of
RMG.
3
1.16 Company Map
Figure 1.2: Company map
Figure 1.3: Factory gate

4
1.6 Environmental Policy of GMS Textiles Ltd.
GMS Composite Knitting Ind. Ltd. is one of the leading 100% export oriented knit
garments manufacturers in Bangladesh. We are committed to protect human health and
environment through:
• Education, training and motivation of employees to carry out tasks in an
environmentally responsible manner.
• Minimizing the consumption of resources, reducing waste generation and
prevention of pollution.
• Encouraging environmental protection among our supply chain.
• Setting environmental objectives and targets against which to measure
improvements in environmental performance.
• Complying with all environmental legal and other requirements.
• Periodical internal audit will be carried out by competent personnel & ensured
the impacts & aspects are in controlled.
1.7 Quality Policy of GMS Textiles Ltd.

• Manufacture world class products for global market.
• Achieve customer satisfaction by ensuring the highest quality & safety of
products.
1.8 Green Features of GMS Textiles Ltd.

• Preferred car parking for carpooling and Green Vehicles.
• Site Development- Maximize open space.
• Rainwater Management.
• Water Efficient Landscaping.
• Water Savings of more than 72% of the usage.
• Water Efficient fixtures and treated water.
• Enhanced building Commissioning.
• Energy conservation measures.
• Storage and collection of recyclables.
• Use of regional Materials.
• Use of recycled content materials.
• Increased ventilation as per ASHRAE 62.1
• Construction IAQ Management plan.
• Environmental Tobacco smoke control.
• Interior Lighting.
• Indoor Air quality testing.
• Utilizing own compost fertilizer.
5
1.9 Production capacity
Table 1.1: Production capacity of GMS Textiles Ltd.
Section Capacity
Knitting 40,000 kg/day
Fabric Dyeing 60,000 kg/day
Dyeing Finishing 60,000 kg/day
Embroidery 30,000 pcs/day
Cutting 100,000 pcs/day
Sewing 80,000 pcs/day
Finishing 90,000 pcs/day
1.10 Certificate of GMS Textiles Ltd.
Figure 1.4: Certificates of GMS Textiles Ltd.
6
1.11 The Project’s Development History
GMS Textile Ltd. started their business by some knitting m/c’s in 2018. Then at the end
of 2018 they started their fabric processing plant and after that gradually they expanded
their garments section and print shop.
1.12Different Departments
• Knitting Section:
i) Knitting (Circular & Flat Knitting)
ii) Grey inspection (Circular & Flat Inspection) Store
• Dyeing Section:
i) Grey Inspection
ii) Batching Section
iii) Dye House
• Finishing Section
• Lab & Quality Assurance
• Printing Section
i) Sample Section
ii) Production Section
• Garments Section:
i) Product development
ii) Production merchandising
iii) Sample section
iv) Spreading and cutting section
v) CAD section
vi) Sewing section
vii) Finishing section
• Utility Section:
i) Compressor
ii) Boiler
iii) Generator
iv) ETP
• Maintenance Section:
i) Electrical
ii) Mechanical
• Supporting Department:
i) Personnel administration
ii) HR
7
iii) Procurement
iv) Marketing
v) Finance and accounting
vi) Security department
1.13 Additional Facilities

Officers and workers will have access to a full-time doctor and nurse in the event of an
emergency. Preventive medical care and advice are provided at no cost. Employees
have access to the Stuff canteen for lunch and snacks. For the employees, there is a
complimentary bus service.
1.14 Observations
GMS TEXTILES LTD. is a profitable venture that benefits our country’s economy.
1.15 Management Methodology

The Dyeing, Finishing, Printing, and Knitting floors are managed by a General
Manager, who is followed by a Manager, a Deputy Manager, an Assistant Manager,
production officers, and a shift in charge. The HR admin officer is responsible for all
general managers, engineers (mechanical/electrical), assistant manager accounting, and
medical officers.
Knitting section management system:
• Each shift requires four mechanical fitters.
• Each machine requires one skilled operator.
• One assistant for two machines
• A loader is used to transport the yarn package.
8
1.16 Major Consumers GMS Textiles Ltd.
Figure 1.5: Buyers Logo
1.17 Remarks
GMS Textile Ltd. is a profitable project and contributes the economy of our country.
9
CHAPTER 2
MANPOWER MANAGEMENT
2.1 Factory Organogram
Chairman
Managing Director
Director Director
(Production) (HR & Admin)
Manager
GM GM GM
(Dyeing) (Knitting (Printing)
)
(Producti
on)
(Producti HR IT Compliance
on) Officer Executive Officer
Figure 2.1: Factory organogram

(Producti (Productio (Production)
on) n)
10
2.2 Organogram of Knitting Section
Executive Director
AGM
Manager
Production R&D
Sr. PO
Floor Technical
Sr.
Sr. PO Asst. Incharge
Manager
Jr.
Shifting General Asst. Officer/ Incharge
Officer
Sr. Asst. Jr.
Incharge Officer Asst. Tech. Incharge
D Incharge
Data Opertator
Sr. OP
Entry OP
Bar-Code Shifting General

Slitting
OP
M/C OP
Sr./Jr. Sr./Jr.
Re-Coning Helper Incharge Incharge
OP
Needle- Servicing
Helper man Man
Figure 2.2: Organogram of knitting section
11
2.3 Organogram of Dyeing Section
General Manager
Deputy General Manager
Manager
Asst. Manager
Executive Officer
Shift In Charge
Operator
Helper
Figure 2.3: Organogram of dyeing section
2.4 Organogram of Dyeing Finishing Section
Assistant Manager
Executive Officer
Super Visor
Operator
Helper
Figure 2.4: Organogram of Dyeing Finishing section
12
2.5 Organogram of Printing Section
Manager
Senior Executive Officer
Super Visor
Operator
Helper
Figure 2.5: Organogram of printing section
2.6 Shifting System

There are three shifts in the industry. So, the shifts are changed at every 8 hours.
Shift Change for worker of Security:
A Shift - 6.00 AM-2.00 PM
B Shift - 2.00 AM-10.00 PM
C Shift -10.00 AM-6.00 PM

General shift for staff:
A Shift - 08:00 AM-02:00 PM

B Shift - 02:00 PM-08:00 AM
*Management personal work on general shift of duration 9.00am to 5.00pm and 6 days
per week*
13
2.7 Management System:
• Intercom telephone.
• Fax.
• Written letters &.
• Oral.
*The management system of GMS Textile Ltd. is so good, because the overall
efficiency of GSM is nearly 90%. Management system can influence the productivity.*
2.8 Remarks
The manpower management system & HR department of GMS Textiles Ltd. are well
arranged. Every officers & stuffs are responsible for their duty. The workers are
bounded to work for minimum 8 hours per day. Production runs with the help of
mechanical fitters. For any kind of mechanical fault of any machine they fix and work
under knitting manager. Production officer takes account of daily production by
running after the two supervisors & workers & so on.
14
CHAPTER 3
MACHINE DESCRIPTION
3.1 Knitting Section

Table 3.1: Total number of knitting machines
Types of Machines No. of Machines
Circular Knitting Machines
• Single Jersey (108) 110
• Double Jersey (12)
Flat Knitting Machines
• Semi Jacquard (40) 55
• Full Jacquard (15)
Table 3.2: Specifications of Circular Knitting machines

M/C M/C
Origin Dia Gauge Feeders Needles Quantity
Types Brand
Rib PAILUNG Taiwan 38 18 76 4300 8
Rib Fukuhama Taiwan 44 18 88 5280 2
S/J Terrot Germany 38 24 122 2656 43
S/J Fukuhara Japan 36 24 116 2715 6
S/J Origio Italy 28 24 84 2112 39
S/J Jiunnlong Taiwan 34 20 102 2136 4
S/J Goang- Lih Taiwan 34 20 102 2112 6
Rib Terrot Germany 42 18 84 4752 2
Total no. of Circular Knitting machines 110
Table 3.3: Specifications of Flat Knitting Machines

M/C Types M/C Brand Origin Dia Gauge Feeders Quantity
Semi- JAC Kauo- heng Taiwan 60 14 6 10
Semi- JAC Matsuya Japan 68 14 6 30
Full- JAC Sinotex China 80 14 6 15
Total no. of Flat Knitting machines 55
Table 3.4: List of Fabric Inspection Tools Used in Knitting Section

S.L No. Fabric Inspection Tools
1 GSM Cutter
2 Electric Balance
3 UZU Machine (Fabric Inspection)
15
3.2 Dyeing Section
Table 3.5: Specifications of Lab Dyeing machines
M/C Types Brand Origin Quantity
Sample dyeing M/C Starlet-3 Korea 5
Dryer M/C Carbolite Germany 1
Water Extractor M/C Suitmate USA 1
CMC M/C Verivide UK 1
Spectrophotometer Data Color USA 1
Table 3.6: Specifications of Sample Dyeing machines

M/C Types Brand Origin Capacity Quantity
Dynamic Dynamica (S) Italy 7 Kg 3
Jet Fong’s (S) China 60 Kg 9
Wince Kappa (S) Italy 25 Kg 9
Total no. of Sample Dyeing machines 21
Table 3.7: Specifications of Production Dyeing machines

Winch Dynamica (P) Italy 250-1500 Kg 15
Winch Sclavos (P) Greece 1000,1500 Kg 2
Total no. of Production Dyeing machines 17
3.3 Dyeing Finishing Section

Table 3.8: Specifications of Slitting machines
Brand Origin Capacity Quantity
Corino Italy 1200 Kg 3
Bianco Italy 1200 Kg 1
Total no. of Slitting machines 4
16
Table 3.9: Specifications of Squeezer machines
Total no. of Squeezer machine 1
Table 3.10: Specifications of Stenter machines

Sun Super- ii Korea 12000 Kg 2
Total no. of Stenter machines 5
Table 3.11: Specifications of Dryer machines

Open Dryer Dilmenler Turkey 14000 Kg 2
Tube Dryer Santex Switzerland 8000 Kg 1
Total no. of Dryer machines 3
Table 3.12: Specifications of Compactor machines

Open Compactor Lafer Italy 11000 Kg 1
Open Compactor Sintec Italy 11000 Kg 2
Open Compactor Ferraro Italy 11000 Kg 1
Tube Compactor Sintec Italy 8000 Kg 1
Total no. of Compactor machines 5
17
3.4 Cutting Section
Table 3.13: Specifications Cutting Section machines.
Relaxation Winda China 1
Auto Spreader Lectra India 9
Auto Cutting Bullmar China 3
Manual Cutting Butterfly China 25
Total no. of Cutting Section machines 38
3.5 Sewing Section

Table 3.14: Specifications Sewing machines.
S/N Brother China 55
S/N Juki China 70
S/N Juki Vietnam 40
S/N Yamato Japan 30
O/L Pegasus Vietnam 65
O/L Yamato Japan 54
F/L Yamato Japan 45
F/L Juki China 50
Bartek Brother Vietnam 20
Bartek Juki Japan 16
Button Attaching Brother Japan 42

Machine
Buttonhole Brother Japan 40
Total 527
18
3.6 Remarks
GMS Textiles Ltd. has so many quality-full machines and working persons which are
so efficient, so quality of product always gets good rates.
19
CHAPTER 4
RAW MATERIALS
4.1 Raw Materials for Knitting Section

The raw material for knitting is the yarn. Different types of yarn of wide range of count
are used. In yarn store section we had the chance to know about different yarns of
different count used in GMS Textile Ltd. We also have known different yarn
manufacturer/suppliers name for this knitting section i.e., sources of yarn. Both carded
and combed yarn is used for knitting.
4.1.1 Types of Yarn Used in Industry

Table 4.1: Types of Knitted Fabric Used in Industry
Types of Yarn Count
10s, 12s, 14s, 16s, 20s, 24s, 26s, 28s, 30s,

100% Cotton 32s, 34s, 40s
100% Polyester 75D/36F, 50D/36F
100% Viscose 26s
CVC (75/25, 60/40, 80/20) 12s,14s, 16s
PC (65/35) 30s, 34s, 40s
Spandex 20D, 40D, 50D, 70D, 75D
Tencel / Lyocell 100% 30s
Grey Mélange (15% viscose) 34s
4.1.2 Types of Knitted Fabric Used in Industry
• Plain Single Jersey

• Lycra Single Jersey
• Slub Single Jersey
• Single Lacoste
• Double Lacoste
• Rib (1*1Rib, 2*1Rib, 2*2 Rib, 6*2Rib etc.)
• Interlock double Jersey
• Fleece
• Terry
20
• Pique
4.2 Raw Materials for Dyeing

In the industry the raw materials used for production are:
• Grey fabric.
• Dyes.
• Chemical & Auxiliaries.
4.2.1 Most Commonly Used Dyes

The following dyes are used:
• Reactive
• Disperse
4.2.2 Dyes and Brightener used in GMS Textiles Ltd.

Table 4.2: Dyes and Brightener used in GMS Textiles Ltd.
SL. No. Reactive dyes Disperse dyes Brightener
1 Avitera Bemacron Chemi
2 Novacorn Dianix Syno
3 Remazol Foron Sinar
4 Argazol Flaperse Mega
5 Colorsol Terasil Neuceblanc
6 Dyecol Flaperse Uvitex
7 Derisyn Drymaren Ultraphor
8 Liyuansol - -
9 Levafix - -
10 Polafix - -
11 Red Shade - -
12 Rifanol - -
13 Sunfix - -
14 Xtrafix - -
15 Rifacryl - -
21
16 Bezaktive - -
17 Bipoactive - -
4.2.3 Chemicals used in GMS Textiles Ltd.

Table 4.3: Chemicals used in GMS Textiles Ltd.
SL. No. Chemicals Specification
1 Hydrogen Peroxide Bleaching Agent
2 Oxalic Acid Acid
3 Hydrose Reducing Agent
4 Zetesol Fix Fixing Agent
5 Alba Fix Fixing Agent
6 Threephore 4BK Brightener
7 ATC-100 Anti-crease
8 Cellusoft C-9800L Dye bath enzyme
9 Formosoft NNC Nonionic softener
10 Cepraton UNP Nonionic softener
11 Caustic Soda Alkali
12 Soda ash Alkali
13 Enzyme BL-2000 Acid Enzyme
14 Persoclean STN Detergent
15 Argacel TCW Soaping Agent
16 Dyeing Acid GNA Buffer Acid
17 Argacel TCB Bio scouring
18 Matclean OSR Detergent
19 Oxinol CNW Soaping Agent
20 Glauber Salt Mordant
22
21 Eriopon OS Softener
22 Sapamine- SFC Anti- crease
23 Albaflow FFC Anti- foaming
24 Nicca Sunsoft LM-7 Polyester levelling
25 Argaprep CPD Detergent
26 Lisa 40 Sequestering Agent
27 Croscolor LMI Anti- crease
28 Bactosol SAP Peroxide killer
29 Prestogen SOF Stabilizer
4.3 Raw Materials for Garments section

Table 4.4: Necessary trims & accessories in Garment Section
Trimmings & Accessories Finishing Accessories
Sewing Threads (Spun & Bulk Polyester) Size Sticker
Interlining OVL Sticker
Lining TRL Sticker
Button (Snap Button, Plastic Button, Metal Button) Carton
Stopper Box Label
Elastic Tag pin
Shoulder Pad Showing Ticket
Label (Main Label, Care Label, Size Label, Side Label) Power Sticker
Hook & Loop Hanger Size
Twill Tape Price Ticket
Zipper Hand Tag
Eyelet Poly bag
Draw cord Gum Tape
23
Piping Carton Sticker
Motif (Leather, Plastic, Batch Metal) Hanger Connector
4.4 Remarks
Many raw materials are imported from many countries as requirements. Raw materials
for dyeing and finishing are stored in different store.
24
CHAPTER 5
KNITTING SECTION
5.1 Introduction
Knitting is a process of fabric forming by the intermeshing the loops of yarns. When
one loop is drawn through another, loops are formed in horizontal or vertical direction.
There are two of knitting:

1. Weft knitting
2. Warp Knitting
[Note: In case of GMS Textiles Ltd. only Weft Knitted fabrics are produced from
knitting section.]
5.2 Process Flow chart of Knitting
Yarn in cone from yarn store
,
Place the yarn, in the creel
,
,
,
Yarn feeding
,
,,
Machine ,setting
,
,
,
Knitting
,
,
Fabric in roll form, and weighting
,
,
,
Roll Marking
,
,
,
Inspection
,
,
Dispatch to Grey , fabric store
,
,
Figure 5.1: Process Flow chart of Circular Knitting
,
25
,
,
,
,
5.3 Layout of Knitting Section
Figure 5.2: Layout of Knitting Ground Floor
Figure 5.3: Layout of Knitting 1st Floor
26
5.4 Classifications of Knitting machines
Knitting M/C
Warp Knitting M/C Weft Knitting M/C
Circular Knitting M/C Flat Knitting M/C
Cylinder Dial Semi-JAC Full-JAC
Figure 5.4: Classifications of knitting Machines
5.5 Different Parts of Circular Knitting Machine & Their Functions
Table 5.1: Circular knitting machine parts & their function.
Name of the parts Function

1. Creel Creel is a vertical aluminum stick where creel is placed for
holding the yarn cone. It also known as side creel.
2. MPF Wheel Its controls the speed of the MPF. Pulley belt gives motion
to the wheel.
3. MPF It means Memminger positive feed. It gives equal length
yarn distribution in the knitting cycle.
4. VDQ Pulley It is a very important part of the machine. It controls the
quality of the product. Altering the position of the tension
pulley changes the G.S.M of the fabric. If the pulley moves
towards the positive directive, then G.S.M decreases and in
reverse direction, G.S.M will Increase.
5. Pulley belts It controls the rotation of the MPF wheel.
6. Yarn Guide Pipe It helps the yarn to feed in the feeder & also reduces ply.
7. Inlet and outlet stop It is an important part of the machine. It stops the machine
motion instantly when a yarn breaks.
8. Feeder A feeder is a device where yarn passes through the knitting
section.
9. Feeder Ring It is a ring. Where all feeders pleased together.
10. Brush It cleans the pulley belt.
27
11. Needle The needle is a primary knitting element. It gives movement
according to the cam arrangement.
12. Sinker Sinker is another master part of the knitting machine. It
supports yarn to form the desired loop. Sinker is located at
each and every gap of the needle.
13. Sinker Box Sinker box holds and supports the sinker.
14. Sinker Ring This is a circular ring which holds all sinker box.
15. Cam Cam is the device which converts the rotary motion into a
definite reciprocating motion for the needles and some other
devices.
16. Cam Box Cam box holds and supports cam. Knit, truck and miss cam
are arranged horizontally according to fabric design in the
cam.
17. Cylinder Needle tricks are situated here.
5.6 Yarn passage path diagram of Circular and flat Knitting machines.
Figure 5.5: Yarn passage path diagram of Circular Knitting machines
Figure 5.6: Yarn passage path diagram of Flat Knitting machines
28
5.7 Classification of weft knitted fabrics
Weft knit fabrics can be divided into four primary structures-
5.7.1 Single Jersey knit fabric
Feature:
• Face side and back side of fabric are different.
• Wales are clearly visible on the face side of the fabric.
5.7.2 Rib (Double Jersey) knit fabric
Feature:
• The simplest rib in (1*1) rib
• It is now normally knitted with two sets of latches needled and known as
double jersey fabric.
• Rib has a vertical cord appearance.
5.7.3 Fleece fabric
Feature:
• Fleece has a pile surface on both sides of the fabric.
• Fleece heavy weight fabric.
5.7.4 Terry fabric:
Feature:
• High rate of water absorption.
• High level water absorption.
• Quick drying.
• Excellent surface texture.
5.7.5 Pique fabric
Feature:
• Combination of knit and tuck cam is equal.
• Polyester based fabric.
• Pique fabric used in sportswear.
5.7.6 Lacoste fabric
Feature:
• Light weight fabric.
• Water adsorption.
29
5.8 Types of collar & cuffs
• Solid
• Lycra solid
• Birds Eye
• Tripping yarn dye
• Two parts
• Jacquard
• Bottom
• Polyester Birds Eye
• Solid polyester
5.9 Knit Card

Knit card is basically the identification card of the fabric where the fabric is with the
fabric from yarn to finish.
5.9.1 Information’s are present in the Knit card:

• Bayer name
• Style No.
• Fabric types
• Color
• Yarn count
• Yarn Brand
• Stitch length
• Machine dia & gauge
• GSM
• Yarn types
• Yarn lot
• Production target
30
Figure 5.7: Knit card of GMS Textiles Ltd.
31
5.10 Important Parameters Required for Controlling during Knitting
After getting the order sheet from the buyer the knitting section starts the production
of fabrics according to the requirements. The important parameters which need to be
controlled carefully during knitting are-
• Machine RPM (Revolution per minute)
• Yarn count
• Fabric GSM
• Stitch length
• Machine diameter
• Machine gauge
• No. Of feeders
• Required time (Machine running time)
5.11 Considerable points to produce Knit fabric

When a buyer orders for fabric then they mention some points related to production &
quality. Before production of knitted fabric, these factors are needed to consider.
Those are as follows-
• Types of fabric or design of fabric
• Finished G.S.M.
• Yarn Count
• Types of yarn (combed or carded)
• Diameter of the fabric
• Stitch Length
• Color depth
GSM It is technical term that indicates the weight of the fabric per square meter.
5.12 Stitch length (S.L)

Length of a single loop. At first count the 100 needles in a fabric swatch & measure
that’s yarn length. Set this S.L on the pulley.
5.12.1 Stitch length can be controlled

• By changing cam size
• By changing sinker size & movement
• By changing needle
• By changing diameter of timing pulley
5.13 GSM
G.S.M indicates the weight of the fabric per square meter. It is determined the thickness
and compactness of knitting fabric.
32
5.13.1 GSM Depends on
• Stitch length
• Yarn Count
• Fabric type
• Point Considered While Setting Grey G.S.M
• Enzyme level
• Color
• Suited or non-suited
5.14 Comparison of Count & GSM for different types of fabrics:
• Single Jersey without Lycra: (For Cotton, CVC, Blend)

Fabric GSM Yarn Count
110-120 40S-36S
120-130 36S-32S
130-140 32S-28S
140-150 28s
150-160 26s
170-210 24s
• Rib without Lycra: (For Cotton, CVC, Blend)

180 – 190 32 s – 36s
190 – 200 30 s
200 – 215 28 s
215 – 230 26s
230 – 250 24s
250 – 300 22s
• Interlock without lycra (For Cotton, CVC & Blend)

200 – 220 34s
220 – 230 32s
230 – 250 30s
250 – 300 26s
33
• Lacoste without lycra (For Cotton, CVC, Blend)
180 – 190 30s
190 – 210 28s
210 – 230 26s
230 – 250 24s
• Single Jersey with 40D Lycra: (For Cotton, CVC, Blend)

180-190 34s
190-210 32s
210-220 30s
220-240 28s
240-250 26s
• Rib with 40D Lycra: (For Cotton, CVC, Blend)

230-240 32s
240-250 30s
250-280 26s
280-300 26s
5.15 Typical Knitting Composition

The calculations which are frequently used in the knitting section are discussed below:
• Gauge (G): Number of needles per inch
• Total needles: Machine diameter×Gauge×3.416
• Feeders of Single Jersey: Machine diameter×3
• Feeders of Double Jersey: Machine diameter×2
Yarn count×G.S.M×10
• Stitch Length (S.L) =
Course/cm×Wale/cm×59
34
• Production Calculation per shift (kilograms):
RPM × No. of feeder × No. of needle × Stitch length (mm) × 60 × 8

=
10 × 2.54 × 36 × 840 × 2.2046 × yarn count (Ne)
Actual production
• Efficiency = × 100%
Calculated production
5.16 Oiling system of knitting machine

The m/c has many frictional parts in it. The friction may occur in between parts to parts.
This friction will cause damage to different parts, which will hamper the production
operation. To reduce this friction oiling in different points are performed. In modern
single jersey circular knitting m/c there is automatic lubricating unit. By pushing a
button will be reached to different parts automatically. For opening of the hook of
needle we brush it with oil. In conventional m/c after assembling we lubricated the
different frictional parts i.e., gear, sinker trick, cylinder trick, cam track manually. We
open the hook of the needle on to ensure the easy opening of hook we brush it will oil,
which reduce the jam in the latch. After lubrication of the m/c we start production.
35
CHAPTER 6
DYEING LAB
6.1 Introduction
In every dye house a laboratory equipped with machine & Essentials equipment’s. It
assists in production prediction, minimization of time consumption and wastage
reduction. It also produces products of the required quality.
6.2 Process Flowchart of Dyeing lab
Swatch and requirement collect from Buyer/Merchandiser
,
Fabric Requisition , for lab dips
,
,
Dryer (GSM , Test)
,
,,
Lab prepared recipe,, from data color
,,
,
Entry recipe in lab, register book
,,
,
Calculate recipe ,for dispersing
,
,
Dispersing recipe by , auto disperser
,
,
,
Fabric input thedya pot
,
,
Load the, M/C
,
,
,
Run Program
,
,,
End M/C program
,,
,,
,,
,
Unload ,,M/C
, 36
,,
,,,
,,
,,
,
,
Cold wash
,
Hot wash ,
,
,,
Chemical,, wash
,,
,,
,
Cold wash & ,, A.Acid
,
,,
,,,,
Dry & ,,Iron
,,
,,
If shade will be match, then,,submit our buying/buyer
,,
,
Figure 6.1: Process Flow , chart of Dyeing lab.
,
,
6.3 Lab dip ,
Lab dip is a process by which buyers supplied, swatch is matched with the varying dyes
percentage in the laboratory with The help of “DATA COLOR” or see the previous
matching sample or give the recipe by the practical experience, Lab dip plays an
important role in shade matching & detaching the characteristics of the dyes and
chemicals are to be used in the large scale of production so this is an important task
before bulk production.
6.4 Spectrophotometer
Spectrophotometers designed specifically for the measurement of colored materials, are
at center of any modern color formulation, color production, or color quality control
system. Although these color spectrophotometers are designed measure samples both
accurately & repeatedly, they accomplish these measurements only within a range of
applicable tolerances. Spectrophotometers are not perfect measuring devices, & how
well they measure often depend on factors under control of system operator. The
objective is how to better operate and control color spectrophotometers, so that their
measurements are as accurate & repeatable as possible. These tips are intended for those
attempting to get the best possible measurement performance from their color
measuring spectrophotometer.
6.4.1 Function of Spectrophotometer
• Preparation of stock solution
• Auto dispensing of given recipe
37
6.5 Analysis of CMC report
Figure 6.2: Analysis of CMC report.
38
6.6 Pantone book
Buyer’s Swatch: may be piece of fabric or C.I. number of any specified ‘Pantone
book’.
6.6.1 Types of Pantone book
• TP (Textile Paper)
• TC (Textile Cotton)
• TPX (Textile paper for Bright)
• TCX (Textile Cotton for Bright)
The given swatch is measured by the ‘Spectrophotometer’, which is prepared by
reach memory of different dyestuff self-shades. Also, the matching may be done
by previous working record.
6.7 Double part dyeing
Double part dyeing is done on PC and CVC fabric. First polyester then cotton part
dyeing is done. Because polyester fabric is dyed at 130°C temperature. And cotton
fabric is dyed at 60°C temperature. Polyester fabric requires a higher temperature
for dyeing than cotton fabric. So, if cotton dyeing first, cotton color will be removed
during polyester dyeing for the second time.
6.8 Cross dyeing
Cross dyeing has a double effect. Front and back part are different.
39
CHAPTER 7
DYEING SECTION
7.1 Introduction
Textile coloration is a combination of some series processes such as scouring bleaching,
dyeing & after treatment which can be carried out at different stages of fiber processing
in different forms like staple, yarn, fabric (rope, open width, piece, or garments). Piece
(batch) dyeing is carried out open-width or rope form in depending on m/c type, product
type & end uses. Usually, these types of materials are dyed in exhaust dyeing method
in a single dyeing m/c with different structure. Knit fabrics dyeing in batch process is
very common in Winch Dyeing m/c. In GMS Textile Ltd. We are quite well known that
Winch & Jet Dyeing m/c are used here for knit dyeing.
7.2 Process Flow Chart of Dyeing section
Receiving from Grey fabrics store
,
,
Batching
,
,
,
Fabric Loading
,
,,
Scouring & ,Bleaching
,
,,
Neutralization &,,Enzyme wash
,,
,
Dyeing,
,
,
Neutralization, & Soaping
,
,
Soaping &, Fixing
,
,
,
Fabrics Unload
,
,
,
Packing
,
40
,
,
,
,
,
,
,
Delivery to Dyeing finishing
,
,
Figure 7.1: Process Flow,chart of Dyeing Section
,
7.3 Layout of Dyeing Section ,
,
,
Figure 7.2: Layout of Dyeing section (Floor- A)
Figure 7.3: Layout of Dyeing section (Floor- B)

41
7.4 Batch Card
A batch card is basically the identification card of the fabric where the fabric stays with
the fabric until dyeing to finish. The only method of identifying the fabric on the
production floor is this batch card.
7.4.1 Information’s are present in the Knit card

• Buyer Name
• Order No.
• Batch No.
• Color
• Fabric Structure
• Grey Fabric GSM
• Finished Fabric GSM
• Grey Dia.
• Finished Dia.
• Winch No.
• Total Grey Quantity
7.5 Different pH for dyeing process

Table 7.1: Different pH for dyeing process
Process pH
Scouring & Bleaching 10.5-11
Acid Neutralize (Pretreatment) 6.5
Acid + Enzyme 4.5
Dyeing 5.5 or 9
Salt 6.2-6.5
Soda 10.5-11
Acid 5-5.5
Softener 4.5-5
7.6 Production Parameters

Table 7.2: Production Parameters of Dyeing Section
Process Temperature pH Time (Min) M:L Ratio
Scouring-bleaching 98°c 10.5-11.5 60 1:8
Enzyme wash 55°c - 70°c 4.5-5 60 1:8
Reactive dyeing light 10.5 60 1:7
60°c
shade
Reactive dyeing 10.5 90 1:7
60°c - 65°c
medium to dark shade
42
Turquoise color dyeing 70°c - 80°c 10.5 90 1:7
Polyester stripping 90°c 4.5 30-35 1:8
Cotton stripping 100°c 11 30 1:8
Polyester dyeing 130°c 4.5-5.5 60 1:8
Cotton whitening 100°c - 30 1:7
Viscose dyeing 50°c 10- 11 30 1:15
7.7 Dyeing process of 100% cotton fabric

Table 7.3: Dyeing process for 100% cotton fabric
Pre-Treatment:
Chemical Required time Required temperature
Phenoclean MRG
Dozing time: 10 min Chemical Dozing: 60°c
SAPAMIN SFC
Run time: 50 min Running Temp: 95°c
Caustic Soda (NaOH)
Acetic Acid (CH3COOH) Dozing time: 10 min
Temperature: 55°c
Enzyme L2000 Run time: 50 min
Dyeing:
Persotex DBN
Time: 80 min Temperature: 80°c
SAPAMIN SFC
NOVACRON Yellow S3R
NOVACRON Navy WB Time: 90 min Time: 90 min
NOVACRON Sub Black R
Glouber Salt Time: 80 min Temperature: 70°c
Soda Ash Time: 60 min Temperature: 80°c
After Treatment:
Acetic Acid
Time: 60 min Temperature: 60°c
Oxinol CNW
SFC Time: 70 min Temperature: 90°c
Formosoft CTC Time: 60 min Temperature: 45°c
43
7.8 Dyeing process of Double part Dyeing
Table 7.4: Dyeing process of Double part Dyeing
Polyester Dyeing:
Dyeing Step Chemical Required time Required
temperature
Argacel-TCB
Dyeing Acid GN-A
Polyester Time: 20 min Temperature: 120°c
Acitex ECO-100
Levelling
Stavin PLD
Flaperse Navy HW-SR-BS
Polyester Dyeing - -
Flaperse Black HW-SR-BS
Reducing Argacel- TCW Time: 20 min Temperature: 90°c
Cotton Dyeing:
Dyeing Step Chemical Required time Required
temperature
Neocrystal BD- 2000
Cotton Levelling Time: 80 min Temperature: 80°c
Cellusoft Combi-9800 L
Novacron Yellow S-3B
Cotton Dyeing Novacron Spice Red W-38 Time: 90 min Time: 90 min
Argazol Black RWN
Glouber salt Glouber salt Time: 80 min Temperature: 70°c
Soda Ash Soda Ash light Time: 60 min Temperature: 80°c
Neutralization Acitex ECO-100 - -
After Treatment Argacel- TCW - -
Zetesol FIX
Fixing - -
Cepreton UN- P
7.9 Cycle Time

After loading the fabric in the machine, the time it takes for the fabric to move from
one end to the other is called Cycle time.
7.9.1 Importance of Cycle Time

• If the cycle time is not good, the fabric dyeing will not be good.
44
7.10 Typical Dyeing Composition
Recipe amount×total liquor×100
• Chemical =
1000×Stock solution
Dyes percentage×Sample weight

• Dyes =
Stock Solution
39.37×1000×fabric weight (kg)

• Rope length = (m)
Fabric dia (inch)×GSM×No. of nozzel
39.37×1000×fabric weight (kg)

• Reel speed = (m)
Fabric dia (inch)×GSM×Cycle time
45
CHAPTER 8
DYEING FINISHING SECTION
8.1 Introduction
Textile finishing, in a restricted sense, is the term used for a series of processes to which
all bleached, dyed, printed and certain grey fabrics are subjected before they are put on
the market. In fact, finishing includes the final treatment of every kind of fabric made
from every kind of fiber. After dyeing knit fabric, it's required to finish. During dyeing
all knit fabrics are dyed in tubular form. According to buyer's requirement knit fabrics
are finished in open form or tubular form.
8.2 Process flow chart of Dyeing Finishing section
Receiving from dyeing
Open Tube
Slitting Hydro/De-watering
Stenter Dryer
Compacting
Jersey/Terry Fleece
Quality check
Compacting Brush/Peach finish
Delivery Store
Quality check Shearing
Delivery Store Stenter
Compacting
Quality check
46
Delivery Store
Figure 8.1: Process flow chart of Dyeing Finishing section
8.3 Layout of Dyeing finishing Section
Figure 8.2: Layout of Dyeing finishing Section
8.4 De-watering/Hydro Machine

After finishing the dyeing process from the dyeing machine then the fabrics are ready
for de-watering. This is the process to remove the water from the fabric completely by
squeezing. This is the main function of the de-watering machine. But here also control
some important factor of the fabric quality.
8.4.1 Function of De- watering/Hydro Machine

• To control the width of the fabric.
• To remove the water from the fabric.
• To control the length of the fabric.
• To control the spiraled of the fabric.
8.5 Slitting Machine

After finishing the dyeing process from the dyeing machine then the fabrics are ready
for slitting.
47
8.5.1 Function of Slitting Machine
• Open the tube according to the needle mark.
• Clean the inner dust of the fabric by water bath.
• De-watering the fabric
8.6 Description of Dryer machine

After de-watering then the fabric is passed through the dryer. The main function of the
dryer to dry the fabric & full fill the other fabric properties according to the Buyer's
requirement. This dryer has four chambers. The speed of the dryer depends on the
temperature of the machine & the GSM of the fabric. The vibration speed of the
machine for heavy jersey / GSM high is 750 m/min & Single jersey/normal GSM is 500
m/min. The temperature of the machine depends on the machine speed. Higher the
temperature of the machine higher the speed.
8.6.1 Function of Dryer Machine

• To dry & calendaring the fabric.
• To control the over feed system (Shrinkage control).
• To control the vibration (To increase the GSM).
• Shade controlling
8.7 Description of Stenter Machine

Stenter can be defined as a finishing process in which the open width form of the fabric
is treated to set up the required width, weight, and fabric texture as per customer's
specification. These requirements from the customer are achieved by a single process
(i.e., Chemical application, Overfeeding-Compaction, Drying- Curing and setting of
Width and Yield). The main mechanism of the stenter machine, under feed roller to
feed the fabric, over feed roller to increase and decrease GSM, spending roller to
remove the crease mark, mahalo to adjust the bowing angle, Fabric wheel to stretch the
fabric and contact with chain.
8.7.1 Function of Stenter Machine

• To control the shrinkage of the fabric.
• To control the width of the fabric.
• To control the length of the fabric.
• To dry the fabric.
8.8 Description of Compactor Machine

The mechanism of the compactor machine classified in the four sections. The function
of straitened to pass the fabric forward and stretch the fabric as required length. The
overfeed mechanism to increase & decrease the GSM & dia of the fabric. Here also
passed the steam to soft the fabric & slightly shade match. This is the third section of
the machine it's also called the compaction station (blanket). Here to control the GSM
& calendering the fabric surface.
48
8.8.1 Function of Compactor Machine
• To control the GSM (Increase & decrease).
• To control the dia.
• To control the shrinkage (Increase & decrease).
• To smooth the fabric surface.
8.9 Heat Setting

Heat setting is done before dying. Because dyeing takes less time and the color is better.
8.9.1 Importance of Heat setting

• Controlled by GSM
• Controlled by Dia
• Controlled by Shrinkage
• Stable the Laycra
• To remove Crease mark
8.9.2 Heat Setting parameter.

Table 8.1: Heat Setting parameter.
Fabric types Temperature SP Dia
Heavy S/J (180-240 GSM) 190°c 2.4 10cm+
LY S/J 195°c 21 15cm+
100% Polyester 180°c 26 10cm+
LY Lyocell/Viscose 200°c 16 15cm+
49
CHAPTER 9
PRINTING SECTION
9.1 Introduction
Coloration of textile materials involves the use of dyes & Pigments of various classes,
which are applied to the materials by essentially different techniques of dyeing &
printing. The main objective in textile printing is the production of attractive designs
with well-defined boundaries made by the artistic arrangement of a motif or motifs in
one or more colors. In other words, dyes & pigments are applied locally or
discontinuously to produce the various designs. Infect, Printing is described as localized
dyeing.
9.2 Process Flow chart of Printing
Receiving from Cutting
,
Fabric Preparation , for printing
,
,
,
Table preparation
,
,,
Fabric plaited ,,on the table
,
,
Printing paste apply with, the help of a screen
,
,
Hanging the , fabric
,
,
,
Curing
,
,
,
Delivery
,
,
Figure 9.1: Process Flow chart of Printing
,
,
,
,
,
50
9.3 Classification of Printing
Figure 9.2: Classification of Printing
9.4 Types of Printing

• Rubber print
• High density print
• Puff print
• Radium print
• Silicone color print
• Afsan print
• Foil print
• Crack color print
• Pigment print
• Discharge print
• Flock print
• Sticker/Photo print
• Sublimation print
• Stone print
9.5 Curing Temperature

Two Dryer Machines are used here for the purpose of curing, which is required for fixation
of print paste over the applied area of the fabric. According to the fabric & nature of the
chemicals, the curing time, temperature & conveyor belt speed may vary. For 100% Cotton
made fabric the temperature is kept 120-170°C & Conveyor belt speed is kept 117-140rpm.
But for polyester made fabric the curing temperature is kept same but then the conveyor belt
speed is kept more than 140rpm. The temperature & conveyor belt speed also depend on the
thickness of the printed area. The more thick printed area required more temperature for
curing.
.
51
CHAPTER 10
CUTTING SECTION
10.1 Introduction
It is to some extent complicated to give exact definition of cutting. In garments industry,
making of the garments parts by cutting of fabrics from the spread or lay of fabric
accurately and as per the drawing of the patterns, is called the cutting of fabrics. The
job of fabric cutting is very much important, because if there is any mistake in fabric
cutting, then it is difficult to get it rectified, even in some causes it may not be possible
to rectify.
10.2 Process Flow chart of Cutting Section
Relaxation
,
Spreading,
,
,
,
Cutting
,
,,
Numbering,,
,,
,
,,
Bundling
,
,
,
Inspection
,
,
,
Replace Section
,
,
,
Input Section
,
,
Figure 10.1: Process Flow, chart of Cutting section
,
,
,
,
52
10.3 Fabric Relaxation
First time fabric is something hot, and twisting, when we kept in relaxation trolley
then fabric is relaxation. Fabric relaxation is given to fix fabric shrinkage.
10.3.1 Types of Fabric Relaxation method

• Manual Relaxation
• Steam Relaxation
10.3.2 Manual Fabric Relaxation Time

Table 10.1: Manual Fabric Relaxation Time
S.l No. Fabic Types Relaxation Time
01 Lycra/Spandex 24 hr
02 100% Cotton S/J 12-16 hr
03 1x1 Rib 12-16 hr
04 2x2 Rib 12-16 hr
05 Pique 12-16 hr
06 Lacoste 12-16 hr
07 Terry 12-16 hr
08 2x3 Rib 12-16 hr
09 Interlock 12-16 hr
10 Fleece 12-16 hr
10.3.3 Steam Fabric Relaxation Speed, Time, Temperature and Pressure

Table 10.2: Steam Fabric Relaxation Speed, Time, Temperature and Pressure
Fabric Types GSM Range Steam Pressure Drying Relaxation
(kg/sqsm) Temperature Time
Nylon Up to 160 4 120°c-150°c 0-1 hr
Viscose Above 160 4 120°c-150°c 0-2 hr
Acrylic any 4 120°c-150°c 0-2 hr
Silk any 4 100°c-120°c 0-1 hr
Fleece any 4 120°c-160°c 0-2 hr
Cotton any 4 160°c-190°c 0-2 hr
Polyester any 4 140°c 0-1 hr
PC any 4 140°c 0-2 hr
53
10.4 Fabric Spreading
After marker planning, next tasks to spread fabric on the table for cutting. Spreading
can be done manually or automatic.
10.4.1 Standard Spreading & Laying Methodology

Table 10.3: Standard Spreading & Laying Methodology
Fabric types Spreading Spreading Lay Length Lay Height
M/C Speed M/C Tension
All S/J GSM below 160 50-60 m +1-2% 7-8 m 2.5 Inch
All S/J GSM above 160 50-60 m +1-2%
All Lycra S/J 30-40 m +2-5% 5-6 m 2 Inch
Fleece, CVC Fleece, Terry 60-70 m 3-5% 10 m 4-4.5 Inch
Pk, S/Lacoste 40-50 m 2-3% 2.5-3 Inch
All types of Rib and others 40-50 m +0-3% 7-8 m 2 Inch
Rib derivatives
Viscose, Cotton
Viscose/Modal/Lyocell 30-40 m +1-5% 3-4 m 2-2.5 Inch
blend
Interlock & Heavy jersey 30-40 m -3-2% 7-8 m 2.5-3 Inch
10.5 Typical Cutting Composition
Size Quantity
• As per ratio = ×Marker/pes
Order Quantity
• Example:
Size Quantity Order Quantity
S M L XL
300 500 900 2 1950
1.8 3 5.5 1.5
2 3 5 2 12 pes
10000000×Consumption
• Marker length =
Marker dia×Booking GSM
Marker length×Marker dia×Booking GSM
• Consumption = × 12 (kg)
10000000×Marker pes
Lay weight×1000
• Linear GSM = (g)
Marker length×Marker width
54
CHAPTER 11
SEWING SECTION
11.1 Introduction
Sewing is an important department in the garments manufacturing industry. All the
parts of a garment are joined here by making stitches with the help of a needle and
thread.
11.2 Process Flow chart of Sewing section
Input Received from Cutting
,
,
Line Input
,
,
Sewing,
,
,,
,,
Quality Check
,,
,,
,
Send to Finishing
,,
,
,
Figure 11.1: Process Flow chart of Sewing Section
,
,
,
,
55
11.3 Layout of Sewing section
Figure 11.2: Layout of Sewing Section
11.4 Name of Sewing Machine

• Plain machine
• Over lock machine
• Flat lock machine
• Feed off the arm machine
• Button hole machine
• Button attach machine
• Bar tack machine
• Kansai machine
• Eye late hole machine
11.5 Different Parts of Sewing Machine & Their Functions

Table 11.1: Different Parts of Sewing Machine & Their Functions
Parts Function
The main function of the spool pin is to hold the spool
1. Spool pin
of thread.
2. Bobbin binder spindle During winding, the bobbin is placed here
When the bobbin reaches its optimum capacity then
3. Bobbin winder stopper the bobbin winder stopper stops the bobbin winding.
The main object of the stitch width dial is to control
4. Stitch width dial
the zigzag stitch.
The pattern selector dial is to set the symbol of the
5. Pattern selector dial
desired stitch pattern.
56
The handwheel is used to raise and lower the need,
6. Handwheel which is situated on the right side of the sewing
machine.
Stitch length dial is used to control the length of the
7. Stitch length dial
stitch.
The machine will sew in the reverse while the lever is
8. Reverse stitch lever
pushed.
Power switch means the off-on office of the sewing
9. Power switch machine. Normally power switch is located on the
right side of the machine.
These types of thread guides are used during bobbin
10. Bobbin winder thread guide
winding.
A thread tension dial is used to control the tension on
11. Thread tension dial
the top thread.
During sewing, the top thread passes through the
12. Thread take-up lever thread take-up lever. Thread take-up lever moves up
and down with the needle.
The needle clamp screw holds the needle in its actual
13. Needle clamp screw
place.
14. Presser’s foot Presser’s foot holds the fabric in its definite place.
During sewing, the bobbin cover protects and covers
15. Bobbin cover
the bobbin holder.
This type of button is used to release the cover for
16. Bobbin cover release button
entrance to the bobbin.
During sewing, the feed dog pulls the fabric forward.
17. Feed dog
18. Needle The needle is used to form a stitch in the garments.
A needle plate is a metal plate that is situated under
19. Needle plate the needle and presser foot. It helps to move the fabric
forward during sewing.
11.6 Stitch
Stitch is a unit or Loop in a seam. Which is produced by three principle Inter looping,
Intra looping, Inter lacing.
11.6.1 Classifications of Stitch

1. Class-100 (Single thread chain Stitch)
It is Chain stitch type, is formed with one or more needle threads introduced from one
side of the material.
2. Class- 200 (Hand Stitch)
Class 200 Stitches consists of hand formation of stitches done by hand, which simulates
a hand running stitch, but is formed by a special machine.
57
3. Class- 300 (Lock Stitch)
The Lock Stitch Class 300 is the most used and is easiest to understand. A Lock stitch
machine requires 2 threads to form a stitch, a needle thread that feeds from the top and
a lower thread that feeds from a bobbin.
4. Class- 400 (Multi-thread chain stitch)
Stitches in this class are made by one or more needles and two or more threads.
5. Class- 500 (Over lock Stitch)
The stitch types in this class are formed with one or more groups of threads. These are
characterized by loops from at least one group of threads passing around the edge of
the material.
6. Class- 600 (Covering chain Stitch)
The cover stitch or 600 class stitch, often called a flat lock or a flat seam stitch.
11.7 Seam
The line of Sewing of more than one layers of fabrics or the line of joining of fabric.
11.7.1 Classification of Seam

1. Hem finished Seam
This hem finished is commonly used in every garment and other sewing projects.
Sometimes use overlock or just fold the hem twice.
2. Plain Seam (Opened seam)
This seam is common on garments and easy to make. Usually used in shoulder, back
and often in all the side parts also.
3. Plain Seam (Closed seam)
This seam is more commonly used in the part of the garments and other sewing crafts.
4. Plain closed seam with Double top stitching.
This is a closed seam but adding two top stitching common in some denims and some
other sewing seams depends on the purpose.
5. French Seam.
A French seam should only be used on delicate, lightweight fabric, like chiffon or
organza, as the seam uses a lot of material and can get bulky with heavier fabrics. Since
the edges of the fabric do not show with this technique, a French seam is also great for
garments where you want to hide the seams, like an unlined jacket.
6. Machine fell Seam.
This seam looks like plain seam with double top stitching, but the wrong side is
different, neat without overlocked.
7. Lapped Seam.
A lapped seam is typically used with fabrics that don’t fray, such as leather and fleece.
For a lapped seam, the right side of the fabric faces up and the pieces overlap, instead
of right or wrong sides together.
58
CHAPTER 12
INDUSTRIAL ENGINEERING
12.1 Introduction
Global rivalry for cost-cutting, productivity, and quantity improvement is putting
pressure on apparel manufacturing factories. These are the issues that Industrial
Engineering deals with to achieve the best degree of productivity, quality, and waste
reduction. As a result, an industrial engineer has a fantastic potential to contribute to
the apparel manufacturing industry's growth by implementing all engineering tools.
Cutting, sewing, and finishing to reduce manpower and WIP, setting timeline layout
(operation breakdown) to increase work efficiency, productivity, demand forecasting,
development layout, efficiency, wages and earning calculation, capacity analysis, line
balancing, Kaizen continuous development, production planning, bottleneck removal,
and so on are all areas where the IE team works. They look at CM, SMV, Costing,
Consumption, and Profit and Loss. A good IE team results in a high-efficiency factory.
They also monitor daily production targets and achieve them as part of their
responsibilities as production managers, working in the sewing line if there is a
bottleneck. Textile engineers, IPE engineers, and other academic departments are the
most common.
12.2 Process flow chart of Industrial Engineering (IE)
Style analysis
,
Make operation, breakdown
,
,
Thread consumption, calculation
,
,,
Making line layout
, on paper
,
,
layout on paperlayout on paperlayout
Select m/c
onand , equipment
paper
,
,
Arrange guides and , attachment
,
,
,
Planning for production target
,
production, target
Setting line when new, style is loaded
, 59
,
,
,
,
,
,
,
Do line balancing
,
,
,
Record production data
,
production
, data
Make production
, reports
,
,, data
production
Report to higher,, management
,,
production , data
Figure 12.1: Process Flow chart of Industrial Engineering (IE)
,
12.3 Industrial Engineering (IE) ,
,
Industrial engineering is a branch of engineering
, which deals with the optimization of
complex processes, systems or organizations., Industrial engineers work to eliminate
waste of time, money, materials, man-hours, machine time, energy and other resources
that do not generate value.
12.4 Responsibility of IE Officer

• Boost sewing and finishing productivity by re-engineering or balancing the
breakdown.
• Accurately measuring factory efficiency, line performance, capacity analysis,
time and motion analysis, machine breakdown, and so on.
• Work with the merchandising team to complete pre-order and post-order costs.
• Establish standard operating procedures (SOP), process flow charts, and
process re-engineering to improve the development of various processes.
• Evaluate new operator’s skills, maintain floor discipline, identify training needs,
and manage their job quality and career advancement.
• Optimal use of man, machine, and method.
• Work with the product development team to make the product production-ready
while also meeting consumer requests.
• Use Kaizen and innovation in the process to analyze productivity and enhance
the system.
• Ensure cost savings by minimizing all waste types.
• Create a monthly personnel forecast, including demand and turnover.
• Keeping track of the production schedule
• Strategic planning
60
12.5 Work Study
Work study is the systematic examination of the methods of carrying out activities to
improve the effective use of resources and to set up standards of performance for the
activities being carried out.
12.6 Method Study

Method study is the systematic recording and critical examination of existing and
proposed ways of doing work as a means of developing and applying easier and more
effective methods and reducing cost. It is a systematic recording and critical
examination of ways of doing things to make improvement.
12.7 Motion Study

To find the preferred method for doing the work.
12.8 Time Study

Time study is a work measurement technique for recording the time of performing
certain/specified conditions and for analyzing the data to obtain time necessary for an
operator to carry out at a define rate of performance.
12.9 Cycle Time

Cycle time is the duration of time from the starting point of a task to the starting point
of the next task. This time is captured by the observation of a person's work by
stopwatch.
12.10 Basic Time

Basic Time is the time which is obtained by multiplying the rating factor to the Cycle
Time.
• Basic Time = (Cycle Time x Performance rating)/100
12.11 Target
Target is the amount of production, which should be produced by an operator or a line
that a management desires.
No. of worker x working/hr x 60

• Target = x Expected Efficiency
S.M.V
12.12 Bottleneck
Which are holding up production operations, or a lengthy operation, that consumes a
great deal of time. A bottleneck is the operation in any team that has the lowest capacity
of production.
Bottleneck means “lost production lost profit”
61
12.12.1 Using the following steps can solve bottleneck
• Selection the correct operator/ operation.
• Improve operator performance (skill/speed)
• Improve method
• Reduce work content of operation.
• Additional machinery / operator.
• Old methods E.G before automatic M/C were invented.
• Ensure bottleneck is not working on faulty production produced before the
bottleneck.
• Bottleneck=10pcs / hr=100/day
12.13 Operation Breakdown of a basic T-Shirt

Table 12.1: Operation Breakdown of a basic T-Shirt
Operation Description Machine No. of Manpower
type Machine Required
Back & Front part match & size sticker attach HP - 1
Shoulder join OL 2 2
Neck rib make VK 1 1
Neck join OL 2 2
Neck rib join OL 1 1
Neck pipen back/Top stitch FL 2 2
Attach Flag level SN 2 2
Sleeve pair & Sleeve match with body HP - 1
Sleeve joining OL 3 3
Sticker remove & fold HP - 1
Side joins & care level attach OL 3 3
Turn body HP - 1
Sleeve Hem FL 2 2
Check & cutting extra thread HP - 2
Bottom Hem & Cutting extra thread FL 1 1
Bottom Hem FL 1 1
Cutting extra thread HP - 1
Neck top stitch FL 1 1
Attach hanger loop & Neck back close SN 3 3
Cutting extra tread HP - 1
Turn body & fold HP - 1
62
CHAPTER 13
FINISHING SECTION
13.1 Introduction
Finishing means the finish any work/ order effectively. But before that work we should
do the work according to the requirements of Buyers such as folding, poly bagging,
assorting, packing or carton.
13.2 Process flow chart of Finishing section
Finishing Received
,
Sucking ,
,
,
Quality ,check
,
,,
Measurement
,
,
,,
Get up ,,Iron
,,
,
Hang tag, attach
,
,
Folding,
,
,
Poly QA, check
,
,
,
Metal check
,
,,
,,
Cartooning/Packaging
,,
,,
Figure 13.1: Process Flow chart ,, of Finishing Section
,,
,
,
, 63
13.3 Materials used in Garments finishing
• Neck board
• Back board
• Full board
• Hand tag
• Tag pin
• Tissue paper
• Al pin
• Ball pin
• Elastic clip
• Hanger
• Poly bag
• Size sticker
• Gun tap
• Blister
13.4 Ironing
It is one of the important processes in garment finishing. Here garments are ironed by
following the measurement chart of those garments.
13.5 Tagging
After ironing tags are attached with garments as per buyer’s requirements. If the tag
needs to be printed, then a sticker is made with that. Now the sticker is attached with
the garments heat (100 0 C – 150 0 C) is applied to fix it.
13.6 Folding
Go Creases result from applying pressure to folds. If we wrap a piece of paper around
a cylinder, it will be easy to straighten again. If we make a fold in the paper, it will be
more difficult. If we apply pressure along the fold, the crease will be even more
pronounced. Clothing is no different.
13.6.1 GMS Textile Ltd. Use following folding style

• Flat folding.
• Roller folding.
• Crunching folding.
13.7 Packing
Exporters should be aware of the demands that international shipping puts on packaged
goods. Exporters should jeep four potential problems in mind when designing an export
shipping crate: breakage, moisture, pilferage and excess weight. Buyers are often
familiar with the port systems overseas, so they will often specify packaging
requirements.
64
13.7.1 GMS Textile Ltd. use following four types of packaging system
• Solid color & Solid size.
• Solid color & Assort size.
• Assort color & Assort size.
• Assort color & Solid size.
65
CHAPTER 14
EMBROIDERY SECTION
14.1 Introduction
Embroidery is the craft of decorating fabric or other materials using a needle to apply
thread or yarn. Embroidery may also incorporate other materials such as pearls, beads,
quills, and sequins. In modern days, embroidery is usually seen on caps, hats, coats,
blankets, dress shirts, denim, dresses, stockings, and golf shirts. Embroidery is available
with a wide variety of thread or yarn color.
14.2 Process flow chart of Embroidery section
Collect plan by Planning section
,
Collected P.P sample ,by QA department
,
,
Collect Embroidery, position pattern
,
,,
Collect Embroidery accessories
, by store
,
,,
Make mockup for bulk ,,production approved
,,
,
Machine setting ,for production
,
,
,
production
,
,
,
Quality approved
,
,
, trimming
Q.I Inspection after
,
,
, section
Delivery Cutting
,
,
,
Figure 14.1: Process Flow chart of Embroidery section
,
, 66
,
,
14.3 Types of Embroidery machine
• Flat/Normal
• Chanile
• Sequine
• Applique
• Tapping
• Cording
• Chiken
• Beates
• Tuffting
14.4 Types of stitch given to complete Embroidery

• Single run.
• Motif cross
• Satin
• Triple run
• Tatami
• Motif chain
• Stem triple
• Jagged side 2
• Back single
• Back triple
• Stem stitch
• Zigzag
• Motif chain heavy
• Jagged both side
• Straight
• Motif fill
• Motif heavy chain
• The program split diamond 2
• Program split metal
• The program split sun cross 2
• Program split scale
• Program split chevrons
• The program split chevron 2
• Program split basket
67
14.5 Typical Embroidery composition
No. of stitch x No. of quantity x 8mm
• Yarn Consumption = (m/cone)
3000000
No. of stitch x 12 (dozen)

• Price =
12000
68
CHAPTER 15
QUALITY ASSURANCE SYSTEM
15.1 Introduction
In GMS Textiles Ltd. is more concern about quality. In this factory quality assurance is
more preferred than quality control, but both are in advancement. This is a system to
assure that products and services meet buyer requirements. To maintain the buyer
quality to approve the sample. The quality assurance department is assigned to maintain
consistently uniform quality of the material in process and various stages of its
manufacturing.
15.2 Objective of Quality control

• Improvement of quality.
• Quality caution at all levels.
• Reduction in customer complaints.
• To check the variation during manufacturing.
• To prevent poor quality products from reaching the customer.
• Decreased inspection costs.
• Specification test.
15.3 Types of Tests at GMS Testing Lab

15.3.1 Physical Tests
• Dimensional stability to washing/dry cleaning
• Appearance after wash/dry cleaning
• Spirality/Twisting
• Color fastness to washing/dry cleaning
• Color fastness to Rubbing/Crocking
• Color fastness water
• Color fastness to perspiration
• Color Fastness to saliva
• Phenolic yellowing
• Bursting strength
• Pilling Resistance (ICI box/Martindale)
• Fabric weight
15.3.2 Chemical Tests

• pH Value
• Formaldehyde
• PVC (Polyvinyl Chloride)
• DMFa (Dimethyl formamide)
• DMFu (Dimethyl fumarate)
69
• Odor Test
• Nickel spot
• Corrosion resistance
15.4 Testing Standard Atmosphere

• Temperature: 20°c
• Relative Humidity: 65%
15.5 GMS Lab Standard

• American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists (AATCC)
• International Organization for Standardization (ISO)
• European Norms (EN)
• British Standards (BS)
15.6 Faults of Knitting

Table 15.1: Faults of Knitting
Faults Causes Preventing action plan
▪ High yarn Tension ▪ Properly set yarn
▪ Dust ▪ Uniform tension in yarn
Holes ▪ High RPM ▪ Properly set machine
▪ High fabric takes down
tension
▪ Improper tension ▪ Different drive has to
Pin hole ▪ Curved needle latch maintained
▪ Needle must change
▪ Low tension of lycra yarn ▪ The tension of lycra yarn
Lycra drop ▪ Fail to catch the lycra yarn should be uniform
by needle
▪ Guide moving variation
▪ High yarn tension ▪ Ensure uniform & the right
Needle broken ▪ Bad setting of yarn yarn tension on all the
▪ Damage of needle feeders
▪ Presence of short fiber and ▪ Use poly around in machine
Fly/Contamination
foreign materials which do ▪ Yarn test properly
not pick up during dyeing
▪ Dust
Slub ▪ Usually caused by a thick or ▪ By using good quality of
heavy place in yarn yarn
▪ Bent latches, Needle hooks ▪ Inspection the grey fabric on
Needle line & Needle stems the knitting machine for any
needle lines
70
▪ Wrong needle selection ▪ Check the needle filling
(Wrong sequence, put in the sequence in the Cylinder
Cylinder or dial) /Dial grooves (tricks)
Thick, thin line ▪ High tension ▪ Proper set of yarn
▪ Count variation
Dust knit ▪ Dust in fabric ▪ Use poly in around machine
▪ Clean properly
▪ Needle problem ▪ Needle set properly
Oil mark ▪ Wrong lubricating method ▪ Use lubrication in correct
▪ Air pressure set up problem method
Black spot ▪ Needle problem ▪ Use best quality lubricant
▪ Lubrication problem ▪ Proper set up of needle
Pin star ▪ Yarn tension variation ▪ Set machine properly
▪ Needle latch problem ▪ Proper set the needle
▪ Feeder problem
15.7 Faults of Dyeing

Table 15.2: Faults of Dyeing
▪ Due to improper ▪ Check addition of dyes and
pretreatment chemicals are at a steadily
Uneven Dyeing
▪ Very rapid addition of dyes increasing rate.
and chemicals ▪ Proper pretreatments.
▪ Lack of controlling dyeing ▪ Check the rope turnover time.
parameters ▪ Proper washing after dyeing.
▪ If soda dosing is done at a ▪ The water used in dyeing
Pin hole high temperature, then in should be free from water
presence ofan oxygen hardness.
pinhole is created. ▪ Soda dosing should be done
▪ Inadequate amount of at a low temperature (not
stabilizer H2O2 bleaching more than 60°C)
▪ Machine loading is higher. ▪ Proper cycle time should be
▪ Running at lower nozzle ensured.
pressure. ▪ Nozzle pressure should be
Running Shade
▪ High bath draining accurate.
temperature ▪ The bath draining
temperature should be
moderate.
▪ More cycle time. ▪ Anti creasing are used to
Crease Mark ▪ Faulty plaiting device. avoid crease marks problem.
▪ Incorrectly set bowed
expander.
71
▪ Improper mixing and ▪ Mixing and dosing of
dissolving of dyestuff. dyestuffs should be done
Dye Spot ▪ Dye bath hardness. properly.
▪ The water of the dye bath
should hardness free.
▪ High yarn tension. ▪ Ensure uniform yarn tension
▪ Count variation. to all the feeders.
Barrie ▪ Mixing of the yarn lots. ▪ Ensure that the yarn being
used for knitting is from the
same lot.
Hand Feel ▪ Use of harsh metal ▪ It can be easily reduced by
Problem chemicals for processing. demineralization and can be
Uneven dyeing ▪ Not equal rope length. ▪ Rove length is each chamber
in a rope ▪ Not equal fabric flow speed. should be same.
▪ Improper pretreatment. ▪ Proper pretreatments.
▪ Proper control of dyeing m/c.
15.8 Faults of Finishing

Table 15.3: Faults of Finishing
Moire Effect ▪ Too high tension during ▪ Proper tension during
(Stenter/ batching and inadequate heat batching and poor heat
Compactor) setting. setting of fabric prior to
dyeing.
▪ Damp fabric moving at high ▪ Use anti crease during the
speed in twisted form in the scouring.
Crease Marks hydro-extractor (centrifuge). ▪ Spread the fabric in loose
and open form and not in the
rope in hydro extractor.
▪ Low tension of lycra yarn ▪ The tension of lycra yarn
Lycra drop ▪ Fail to catch the lycra yarn should be uniform
by needle
▪ Guide moving variation
▪ Physical change in fiber due ▪ Avoid prolonged contact of
Lustrous to local pressure and high stationary material with the
(Compacting) temperature on material. hot machine.
▪ Excessive setting.
Bowing ▪ Uneven distribution of ▪ Bowing can be corrected, by
(Compacting/ tensions, across the fabric reprocessing the fabric, by
Stenter) width while, dyeing or feeding it from the opposite
finishing the fabric. end.
72
Skewing ▪ Improper feeding of the ▪ Keep a slit line on one side
(Compacting/ fabric, while Calendaring & of the tubular fabric.
Stenter) Compacting. ▪ Use the slit line, as a
reference line, to keep the
grain lines straight, while
feeding the fabric slowly, on
the Calendar, or the
Compactor machines.
15.9 Fabric Inspection

The first step to be carried out when received from the supplier is to inspect the fabric.
In the fabric inspection department four-point system has been used for bales, rolls
and Piece Goods inspection.
15.9.1 Calculation of points is done by

Roll points x 100 x 36
• Formula =
Roll length (Yard) x Fabric width (Inch)
Table 15.4: 4-Point Calculation System

4-Point System Acceptance Calculation
Size of Defects Points Classification
Less than 3˝ 1
3˝- 6˝ 2 Up to 20 points =A
6˝- 9˝ 3 21-28 points =B
More than 9˝ 4 Above =Reject
Hole 4
73
CHAPTER 16
EFFLUENT TREATMENT PLANT
16.1 Introduction
Waste waters generated at various stages of textile dyeing, differ in composition,
strength and volume. Their pollution load is highand they arise mostly from spent dye
baths that are principally composed of dyes (mainly unexhausted, hydrolyzed and
surface deposited dyes), dispersing agents, surfactants, electrolytes, acids, alkalis, etc.
Which are unexhausted and have been washed away from the dyed mater GMS. These
effluents are characterized by their intense color, high chemical oxygen demand (COD),
salinity and fluctuating pH.
Of all the waste, color is the first contaminant to be recognized because of its visibility
to human eye. The discharge of highly colored water is not only aesthetically
displeasing, but also interferes with the transmission of light. This upsets the biological
processes and the productivity in the receiving streams. In addition, many colorants are
harmful to certain organisms and may cause direct destruction of aquatic communities.
Color hinders the penetration of sunlight which is very much assent GMS for the
photosynthesis by marine plants. Even the discharge of highly colored wastewater from
city sewer has its damaging effect.
From environmental protection point of view, color removal becomes an integral part
of textile effluent treatment prior to its discharge to the environment for reuse.
Normally de-colorization methods are divided into four subgroups:
• Chemical methods.
• Physio-Chemical methods.
• Physical Methods.
• Biological Methods.
[Note: In case of GMS Textiles Ltd. only Biological Methods are used.]
16.2 Objectives of Effluent Treatment Plant (ETP)

Textile processing employs a variety of chemicals, depending on the nature of raw
mater GMS & product. Industries GMS processes generate wastewater containing
heavy metal contaminants. Since most heavy metals are non-degradable into non-toxic
end products their concentrations must be reduced to acceptable levels before
discharging them into the environment.
74
16.3 Layout of Effluent Treatment Plant (ETP)
Figure 16.1: Layout of Effluent Treatment Plant (ETP)
16.4 Function of different unit of E.T.P

Table 16.1: Function of different unit of E.T.P
Sl. NO. Name of Tank Function
▪ Collect the color water without any solid
01 Collection Tank particle
▪ Watercolor control & Temperature reduce
02 Equalization Tank ▪ To neutralize raw wastewater by dozing
smaller particle
03 pH control Tank ▪ To control pH
04 Reaction Tank ▪ To agglomerate smaller particle
05 Flocculation Tank ▪ Produce flock
06 Primary Clarifier Tank ▪ To monitor performance of flocculation
clarifier & separate solid waste.
07 Sludge bed ▪ Solid waste dried & send to outside for burial
08 Secondary Clarifier Tank ▪ Remaining solid waste separate here.
▪ Reduce total solid
▪ Removing toxic chemicals by secondary
clarifier, liquids are stored in outlet
09 Outlet
▪ Effluent water is ready to discharge in
environment
75
16.5 Biological treatment plant
Table 16.2: Micro Organism is the Main Raw Materials for Biological Plant
Raw Materials
Bacilli
Cocci
1. Bacteria. Beggiatoa
Spirillum
Vitereoeilla
Paramecium caudatum
2. Amoeba. Euplotes
CopHdium
Rotifiers
3. Protozoa Collities
Novcotidi
76
CHAPTER 17
MAINTENANCE
17.1 Introduction
Machines, buildings and other facilities are subjected to deterioration due to their use
and exposure to environmental condition. Process of deterioration, if unchecked,
culminates in rendering these services facilities unserviceable and brings them to a
standstill. In industry, therefore has no choice but to attend them from time to time
repair and recondition them so as to elongate their life to the extent it is economically
and physically to do so.
17.2 Process flow chart of Maintenance
Problem occurred
,
,
Operation
,
,
,
Supervisor
,
,,
Production,, officer
,,
,
Maintenance,, officer
,
,
,
Solution
,
,
Figure 17.1: Process flow, chart of Maintenance
,
,
17.3 Types of Maintenance ,
These types of maintenance are performed by, GMS Textiles Ltd. They are:
• Preventive Maintenance
• Break down Maintenance
• Schedule Maintenance
77
17.3.1 Preventive Maintenance
Preventive maintenance is a predetermined routine activity to ensure on time
inspections or checking of facilities to uncover conditions that may lead to production
breakdowns or harmful depreciation.
17.3.2 Break down Maintenance

In this case, repairs are made after the equipment is out of order and it can not perform
its normal functions.
17.3.3 Schedule Maintenance

Maintenance of different machines is done by an expert engineer of the maintenance
department. Normally in the case of dyeing machine maintenance after 30 days
complete checking of different important parts is done. In GMS Textile Ltd. follows
three types of maintenance.
17.4 Maintenance Tools & Equipment

• Adjustable Wrench
• Double Head Spanner
• Single Head Spanner
• Screw driver
• I-Type L-Key
• Hammer
• Multi Pliers
• Cutting Pliers
• Hack saw blade
• Safety equipment
78
CHAPTER 18
UTILITY SEVICE
18.1 Introduction
GMS Textiles Ltd. requires adequate utility services without which the factory cannot
run. Here the following utility services are available:
• Water.
• Electricity.
• Steam.
• Compressed Air.
• Gas
For these utility services they have separate plant or process like water treatment plant,
generator etc.
18.2 Water
The major GMS for any kind of wet process industry is ‘Water’ because it is the quality
of water which determines the quality of dyeing. Water quality generally varies in
different areas, depending on the level or height of water level beneath the ground. In
Kaliakoir water level is around 130-140 ft but GMS Textile dyeing water is lifted from
about 600 ft deep by submergible pumps.
18.3 Electricity
Though the main supplier of electricity runs the factory and office of GMS Textiles Ltd.
But this electricity is insufficient and costly. That’s why they have gas and diesel
generators.
18.4 Boiler
The equipment used for producing steam is called a steam generator or boiler. The
boiler used for producing steam in GMS Textiles Ltd. is Cochran Boiler, which is a fire
tube type boiler. Simple vertical boiler of fire tube type is mainly used in small plant
requiring small quantity of steam and where floor area is limited.
18.5 Compressed Air

Compressed air is air, which is kept under a certain pressure, usually greater than that
of the atmosphere. Compressed air is regarded as the fourth utility, after electricity,
natural gas and water. However, compressed air is more expensive than the other three
utilities when evaluated on a per unit energy delivered basis. GMS Textiles Ltd. use
compressor air for different types of use. They produce it by using a compressor
machine.
79
CHAPTER 19
COMPLIANCE POLICY
19.1 Introduction
Compliance means conforming to the rules and regulations of the applicable federal or
regional authorities. The Securities and Exchange Commission (SEC) is responsible for
the most critical compliance standards in the financial services industry. Most
significant financial services firms have compliance teams whose job is to ensure that
the firm complies with all applicable laws and regulations. Internal compliance with
safety, pay, benefits, compensations, and employee protection will foster a healthy work
environment. Internal compliance is critical because it ensures that employees are
happy and that any complaints or issues are carefully tracked and resolved before they
spread and harm the entire company.
19.2 Ethical Trading Initiative (ETI)

ETI is a non-profit, non-governmental alliance of businesses, labor unions, and non-
governmental organizations that collaborate to better the lives of workers in the global
supply chain.
19.3 ETI Base Code

The ETI Base Code is a generic code of labor practice that is recognized as a model
code around the world. The Base Code has been embraced by all ETI member
companies, as well as many other retailers and brands, who have committed to ensuring
that their suppliers move toward complete compliance over time. Companies are either
fully implementing it or incorporating it into their corporate codes.
The ETI Base Code is based on nine fundamental principles.
• Employment is freely chosen
• Associational freedom and the right to collective bargaining are upheld
• Working conditions are safe and sanitary
• Child labor is not permitted
19.4 Compliance Department Activities

The public image of the clothing business is crucial to its success. When a corporation
is involved in multiple legal disputes, the public loses faith in the company, and sales
of products and services decline. Compliance will help a business maintain a great
80
image and gain consumer trust. Customers are more inclined to return to a business or
product from which they have received this benefit.
19.5 Working Conditions

GMS Textiles Ltd. has a good environmental policy for its workers, which is in line
with the current world and customer needs. The following are the areas where the focus
is being given to ensuring a conducive working environment.
• Hygiene and Health
• Cleanliness Effluents and garbage disposal
• Temperature and ventilation
• Dust and noxious fumes
• Lighting
• Water to drink
• Protective eyewear
• Day-care facility
• A canteen is available to give hygienic food
• Temperature and ventilation
• Dust and noxious fumes
• Lighting
• Water to drink
• Protective eyewear
• Day-care facility
• Hygienic meals will be provided by a canteen.
81
CONCLUTION
By the grace of Almighty Allah, we have completed our internship report successfully.
Industrial training is an essential part for textile education because it minimizes the gap
between theoretical and practical knowledge. Undoubtedly, this industrial training has
taught me a lot about textile technology, production processes, textile machineries,
industrial management, and made me comfortable to industrial life. Besides it gave me
the first opportunity to work in industry. “GMS Textiles Ltd.” is a well-known factory
in the textile field of Bangladesh. The administrative, management, chain of command
all are the well-organized. They are well equipped with all the modern machinery and
the working environment is excellent. The relation between top management to bottom
level is so nice & devoted to satisfying the customer demand with their activities.
Finally, we thank all the Engineer’s, Officer’s and other personnel’s who have helped
us by lending their valuable time and providing reliable information without which this
mammoth work could never have been completed.
82

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Department of Textile Engineering

Course Code: TXE 448

Industrial Attachment Report on

Md. Razib Sheikh

Bangladesh University of Business and Technology (BUBT)

Subject: Approval of Project Report of B.Sc. in textile Engineering program.

Name ID Intake Signature

Alif Sheikh 18192107032 26

Mehady Hasan 18192107031 26

Md. Rubel Hossen 18192107030 26

Omor Faruk Limon 18192107010 26

Program: B.Sc. in Textile Engineering

Industrial Attachment Course is an academic function of the Bangladesh University of

Special thanks to my supervising teacher Assistant Professor, Md. Razib Sheikh

CHAPTER 1: PROJECT DESCRIPTION 1-9

1.3 Company Profile 3

1.4 Mission and Vision of GMS Textiles Ltd. 3

1.5 Company Map 4

1.6 Environmental Policy of GMS Textiles Ltd. 5

1.7 Quality Policy of GMS Textiles Ltd. 5

1.8 Green Features of GMS Textiles Ltd. 5

1.9 Production Capacity 6

1.10 Certificate of GMS Textiles Ltd. 6

1.11 The Project's Development History 7

1.12 Different Departments 7

1.13 Additional Facilities 8

1.15 Management Methodology 8

1.16 Major Consumers GMS Textiles Ltd. 9

2.2 Organogram of Knitting Section 11

2.3 Organogram of Dyeing Section 12

2.4 Organogram of Dyeing Finishing Section 12

2.5 Organogram of Prining Section 13

2.6 Shifting System 13

2.7 Management Syestem 14

CHAPTER 3: MACHINE DESCRIPTION 15-19

3.2 Dyeing Section 16

3.3 Dyeing Finishing Section 17

3.4 Cutting Section 18

3.5 Sewing Section 19

CHAPTER 4: RAW MATERIALS 20-24

4.1.1 Types of Yarn used in Industry 20

4.1.2 Types of Knitted fabric used in Industry 20

4.2 Raw Materials for Dyeing 21

4.2.1 Most Commonly used Dyes 21

4.2.2 Dyes and Brightener Used in GMS Textiles Ltd. 21

4.2.3 Chemicals used in GMS Textiles Ltd. 22

4.3 Raw Materials for Garments Section 23

5.2 Process Flow chart of Knitting 25

5.3 Layout of Knitting Section 26

5.4 Classification of Knitting Machines 27

5.5 Different Parts of Circular Knitting Machine & Their Function 27

5.7 Classification of weft Knitted fabrics 29

5.7.1 Single Jersey fabric 29

5.7.2 Rib (Double Jersey) knit fabric 29

5.7.3 Fleece fabric 29

5.7.4 Terry fabric 29

5.7.5 Pique fabric 29

5.7.6 Lacoste fabric 29