THE DIARY OF

Dr. ANDREW SMITH

Frontispiece. Dr. Andrew Smith.
 The Diary of

Dr. Andrew Smitht

director of the
"Expedition for Exploring Central Africa,"

Uted, with an introduction, footnotes, map and indexes, by

PEllCIVAL R. KIRBY, M.A., D.LITl'., P.B..C.M.

Professor of Music and History of Music,
University of the Witwatersrand,
Johannesburg.

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 PREFACE.

In presenting this work to the members of the Van Riebeeck

Society my wish has been to make available for general reading
as well as for more detailed study a small part of the prodigious
unpublished writings of an indefatigable worker whose astound-
ing versatility made it impossible for him ever to give to
the world more than a fraction of the fruits of that scientific
work which he undertook, chiefly in his spare time, for the sheer
love of knowledge and from his desire to see things for himself
and to draw his own conclusions. For Andrew Smith was, as
the Memoir of his life will show, from first to last a medical
man, and one, too, whose great ability and outstanding per-
sonality won for him the highest position that could possibly
be attained in that branch of the profession to which he gave
his life.
I have no need to draw the attention of lovers and collectors
of Mricana to his rare and valuable Il/wtralions of the Zoology
of Sot1th Afrka, the materials for which were collected on this
very Expedition, the Diary of which is the substance of the
present work. Rather would I emphasise the fact that there still
remains a large amount of work to be done upon Andrew Smith
and his interests, which, as will be seen from the list of un-
published notes still in existence, were astonishingly wide.
For various reasons he had, unfortunately, to abandon the
idea of publishing an account of his travels, in spite of the fact
that it was eagerly awaited ; and to all those who, assuming
that this was due to lack of knowledge or of original discoveries,
found fault with him for not doing so, I would quote on his
behalf the famous ret>ly which he made to his detractors during
the Crimean campaign : " that the truth would be known
some day, and that he could afford to wait."

P. R. K..
 CONTENTS.

Puua .. UGJI
I

Acs:NO'WLJll>GMJDft8 •• J

'
DlilT OP nm BxnDmON

Pl.Ans (Sec end ofVolwne)

 ACKNOWLEDGMENTS.

I wish to express my deep gratitude to the many friends who

have helped me in the preparation of this work.
In the first place I am indebted to the Trustees of the South
African Museum for their great kindness in allowing me to
study the autograph of the Diary and to transcribe it for pub-
lication, and to Dr. Leonard Gill and Dr. Keppel Barnard, of
the Museum, for their help in tracing the manner of its acquisi-
tion.
Again, I can never sufficiently thank Miss Minnie Lister, of
Kenilworth, C.a.pe, for first putting me on the track of the manu-
script.
I also wish to record my gratitude to Mr. A. C. G. Lloyd,
formerly Librarian of the South African Public Library, to Mr.
Douglas Varley, the present librarian, and to Mr. L M. Murray,
also of the staff of the same Library; to Mr. Percy Freer,
Librarian of the University of the Witwatersrand, and his staff ;
and to Col. C. Graham Botha, Chief Archivist of the Union of
South Mrica,and his staff. Also to Dr. Jackson and Mr. Pilling,
formerly of the Royal Observatory, C.a.pe, for access to the
Maclear letters preserved at the Observatory ; to the Hydro-
grapher to the Admiralty, LondonJ the Librarian of the
Dominions Office, London, and the Superintendent of the Map
Department, British Museum, London, for information or
copies of correspondence regarding the Expedition.
Then I owe a special tribute to Mrs. Helen M. McKay for
the valuable work which she did for me oversea in obtaining
much new material from all manner of sources both in England
and in Scotland, including photographs of the portrait of Dr.
Smith drawn by Charles Bell while on the Expedition, and that
of him in later life ; and I would tender my thanks to Mrs.
Campbell, sister of the late Mr. A. S. Michie, for her per-
misSlon to reproduce the former, and to Major-General W.
6 ACKNOWLEDGMENTS

P. Macarthur, D.S.O., O.B.E., Commandant, Royal Almy

Medical College, London, for allowing me to use the latter.
I am also indebted to the Research Grant Board of the Union
of South Africa for awarding me a grant for maintenance
while working in Cape Town, to the Gubbins Trustees, for thcli
permission to have certain of the drawings by Charles Bell
photographed, and to the University of the Witwatcrsu.nd for
having them so photographed.
I would also thank my friend and colleague Prof'cssor L.
P. Maingard for his valuable criticism and advice, Dr. E. B.
Mossop, of Cape Town, for similar friendly assistance, Professor
C. M. Doke, of the University of the Witwatersrand, for help
with and suggestions regarding the orthography of the v:ulous
Bantu names, Professor Thom, of the University of Stellenbosch.
for copies of letters connected with the Expedition, Dr. W. van
den Bos, of the Observatory, Johannesburg, for his illumina-
tion of an otherwise obscure astronomical point, Dr. Austin
Roberts and Dr. Fitzsimons, of the Transvaal Museum, Pretoria,
for advice on ornithological matters, to Mr. W. P. Paff, photo-
grapher to the University of the Witwatersrand, for his careful
work on the many plates, and to Mr. Fourie, of Ondcrstcpoort.
for identification of three diseases of cattle mentioned in the
Diary.
For the many hours of arduous and painstaking labour spent
in the transcription of the manuscript I can never be sufficiently
grateful to Mrs. Cross (Miss Irene Steele) and to Miss Rosa
Nepgen.
I likewise wish to add here a tribute to my wife, whose
help with the correction of the proofs has been invaluable.
Finally I tender my thanks to the Council of the Van Riebecck
Society for their generosity in allowing this work to sec the
light of day.
 UST OF PLATES.•
"'-1tt.o/ln.-Pbotograph of a portral1 ol Dr. Andrew Smith. drawn bf
c&arlea Bell dudn~ the &peditioa. Glvea to Mn. H. M. McKay by
the late Andrew S. Michie. oephew o£ Dr. Smith.
Ploll 1.-Reproduction of a page of the Diary.
Plou :a.-Coleaberg, Nachtmaal, Sept. 1834.
Ploll 3.-The Orange River, near Buffel's Vley, 1134.
Plola 4.-Phllippolis, capital of Griqualand, 1834.
Plate ,.-Hendrik Hendriks, brother of David and Andries Hendriks,
the Bergenaars, son-in-law of Adam Kok (the chief) and the able
Secretary [to] the Government of Griqualand, presented with a
worn-out pair of Wellingtons and sketched while grateful, 1834.
Plat. 6.-Verhuil, now Bethulie ; French Missionary Station among the
Refugee Bechuana near the Caledon River, 1834.
PllJU- 7 .-Moriah ; French Missionary Station in the Bassouto country,
1834. The Maluti Mountain in the distance.
Plate 8.-0ld Danster, a Griqua or Coranna chief near Koesberg.
Shortly before this sketch was taken he had invited a rival tribe
to a feast in celebration of peace and slaughtered his guests to a
man. In answer to reproaches for this treachery he replied that
his friends intended to play the same game had he given them time,
which was very probable, 1834.
Plot1 9.-Thaba Bosigu (Mountain of Darkness). Stronghold of
Moscheshwe, Chief of the Bassoutos, 1834.
Plol1 IOA.-The Drakellllberg Range, East of Bassoutoland, 1834.
Plau 10•.-Ushuane; a Wesleyan Missio!lary Station among the
Corannas and Griquas on the West Border of the Bassouto and
Mantatee country, 1834.
Plata u.-Mr. Edwards' congregation at Llshuane, 1834.
PHIU 12.-Umpokuane ; Wnleyan Mission Station among the Coran.
ll&S, 1834.

• The orlglml titles were written in peocll by Oiarles Bell, the artlat :
l&ter titles were wrlttea over theae in ink. appareatly by Dr. Smith himself.
1 ban UICd the latter here, e:a:cept for Plates :a aod 5, where Smith :added noth-
ing. In photopphing the dnwinp no attempt has been made to touch
up either negatives or erinta : all blemishet or wom pll&CCI in che picrurel
are shown aacdy as ttiey u:iat to-day.
8 LIST OP PLATES
PlaU 13.-Stronghold of Sikonelli, chief of the Mantatees, 1834.
Plata 14.-Sikonelli, chief of the Mantatees, 1834. This remnant of
the Mantatees under Sikonella and his mother Machaka, a very
drunken old lady once celebrated for prowess in battle and throwing
the axe, settled in the comer between the Draakberg and White
Mountain when this tribe scattered after their attack on Kuruman
or Lattakoo. A great part of the othen wu broken up at Hanglip
in 1828?
Plata 15.-Thaba'unchoo (Black Mountain) : Wesleyan Mission Sta·
tion and Residence of Maroko, chief of the Baralong, 1834.
Plau 16.-Uitdraai, on the Riet River, 1835.
Plata 17.-The Valley of the Riet River, 1835.
Plata 18.-Sketcb on the Modder River, 1835.
Plate 19.-Sketch on the Modder River, 1835.
PlaU 20.-Fording the Vaal River ('Ky Gariep), 1835.
PliJU 21.-Lcmdon Missionary Station of Kuruman, or New Lattakoo,
in the Batclapi country, 1835.
PlaU 22.-Kuruman from the North East, across the Vley of reeds,
1835.
PlaU 23.-A Bechuana cupping, 1835. Cuts, exhaust and knife.
Plat• 24.-The Langeberg in the Kalihari desert, 1835.
PlaU 25.-L'inchuane (little house), hole in rock containing dirty
water; the fint draught in returning through the desert of Kalahari,
1835.
Plate 26.-Sketch on the border of the Kalihari desert, 1835,
PlaU 27.-Motito : French Mission Station among the Batclapi, 1835.
PlaU 28.-Mr. Lemue, French Missionary at Motito, holding Evening
Service, 1835.
PlaU 29.-Dress of boys during the ceremony of Circumcision (Boguera)
among the Bechuana, 1835.
PlaU 30.-Dress of Bechuana girls during Circumcision Ceremonies
(Boyale), 1835.
Plata 31.-Barolong purification of a warrior who has slain a man in
battle, 1834.
Plate 32A.-Medicine man administering the charm to Barolong
warriors when going to battle, 1834. .
PlaU 3a.-.Medicille man blowing counter charm towards the enemy.
 INTRODUCTION.

I. Oriti11 of Ibis pt1b/i,aliot1.

The publication of this Diary is due to a curious chain of
circumstances. While gathering historical material for my
book Thi Mmkal /nslrtlments of thl Natit11 Ra&u of So11tb Afri,a,
I came across, quite casually, a number of references to an
"Expedition for Exploring C.Cntral Africa .. which, apparently,
set out from Cape Town in the middle of the year 18 54,l:iut about
which little seemed to have been published. The references in
Moffatl and Steedman' showed that this Expedition, which was
very well equipped, had visited several parts of the country
about which little was known at that tiiru; and I was very
anxious to find out details of the journey, and of the results
obtained from it.
Shortly before his death the late Dr. J. G. Gubbins acquired
in London three volumes of original drawings in water colour,
wash and pencil by two artists, Olarlcs Bell," and Samuel
Daniell.' Of those by Bell, numbering one hundred and ninety,
about one hundred and seventy were executed during the Ex-
pedition, for Bell was one of the two artists who were members
of the party, his duty being to delineate the topography of the
country, ~tivc customs and important and interesting per-
sonages.
As soon as these drawings arrived in Johannesburg I lost no
time in examining them. in order to sec what musical practices,
if any. were depicted therein. I was fortunate in discovering
no fewer than eleven pictures of performances upon musical
instruments, and I reproduced several of these in my book.

1 Mo&t. a.. Mu1itJtltsl;J LtllJoltr1 """ Smw !ti SOllllJml Ajr/ltl, Londoa.
18.u.
t Steedman, A.,
Afrka, London. i83J.
W'""""""' llllll ~ /ti tlM Iflllrlor of SOllJIJml
• Later Surveyor-General at the Cape.
• Autbot of AfrWn S'°"'Y tlllll AJl/1'1411, London, 18o4-tloJ.
10 INTR.ODUCTION
But no descriptive texts were available, nor were any known of.
Dr. Gubbins, however, drew my attention to a copy of the rare
preliminary report of the Expedition, which was published in
Cape Town in 18 36, and there I found a long list of articles which
had been brought back by the party, and which included the
Diary of Dr. Smith.1 I therefore set to work to attempt to trace
the whereabouts of this document, first of all collecting all
possible data concerning the Expedition and, in addition,
questioning everyone who might possibly have any information
on the subject.
The first hint was given to me by Miss Minnie Lister of
Kenilworth, Cape, a grand-daughter of Andrew Geddes Bain,
who himself accompanied the Expedition for part of the way.
Miss Lister thought that she had seen the manuscript of the
Diary, and referred me to Dr. Haughton of Pretoria, who, in
turn, advised me to enquire at the South African Museum.
There, after some search, Dr. Barnard found in the strong
room a number of manuscript volumes, in the handwriting of
Dr. Andrew Smith, where they had lain since their acquisition
by the Museum in 1913. There were fourteen of these volumes,
one of which turned out to be the Diary of the Expedition,
and two others to be the Journal of the Expedition, as drafted
by Smith and intended for publication, but never actually
published.
Smith sailed for England in 1837, about a year after the re-
turn of the Expedition to Cape Town. There is no doubt that
he took with him all his manuscript notes together with the
large collection of drawings made on the journey. The manu-
scripts remained in his possession until his death, after which they
passed into the hands of a nephew, Alexander Michie, who
wrote what is the fullest and most accurate memoir of Sir
Andrew Smith which has yet been published. and which I
reprint in this introduction.
On nth November, 19u, Mr. A. S. Michie, brother of
Alexander, wrote to the Trustees of the South African Museum,
Cape Town,1 and offered them thirteen manuscript Imperial
Octavo volumes, in the handwriting of Smith, as he considered
1 &port of tbl Bxptdlt/Oll for Bxplwltlg C1t11r11/ AfrittJ, Cape Town. 1856,
p. 61.
' Letter in the files of the South Mdcan Museum, Cape ToW11.
 INTRODUCTION II

that the Library of the Museum was the most appropriate place
for them. They were duly accepted and, as I have said, housed
in the strong room where they have been ever since. The
volumes are as follows, there being fourteen. and not thirteen
as stated in Michie's letter.
1. Historical Notices: Hottentots.
A volume of extracts from all manner of sources
relating to the history and customs of the Hottentots
from 1662 to about 1833.
i. Historical Notices: Kaffirs.
A similar volume, covering the period 1702 (time of
Von Plettenbcrg) to t8H·
3. Kaffir Notes.
Fully half of this volume appears to consist of manu·
script notes, roughly arranged, made by Smith when in
Kaffirland in 1824 and 1Ba J.
4. Mrica I.
,. Mrica. n.
6. Mrica m.
7. Mrica IV.
a. Africa V.
Five large volumes, apparently notes for a compre-
hensive work on the ethnology of the whole of Africa,
so far as it was known at the time. Volume I and half
of Volume II deal with South Africa ; the remainder
cover the rest of the continent. The work is partly
original and partly collected from other authors.
9. Diary of the Expedition.
The actual field notes of the 1834 Expedition, with
a supplementary geological report, the latter being illus-
trated with diagrams. The Diary is written on paper
watermarked 1831 to 1832.
10. Journal of the Expedition, Vol. I.
This is Vol. I of the Journal, partly prepared for
publication. Written on paper watermarked 1Bn to
183 8.
 u INTRODUCTION

n. Journal of the Expedition, Vol. II.

This is Vol. II of the Journal, partly prepared for pub-
lication, but not completed. Written on paper water-
marked 1837 to 1838.
12. Memoranda.
Notes on Tswana, Sotho and Ma.tebcle tribes, ap-
parently made on the Expedition. Written on paper
watermarked 1831. This volume is marked A.
13. Memoranda.
Various historical notes, apparently made before the
Ext>edition. Written on paper watermarked 1828. This
vofume is marked B.
14- Memoranda.
Missionary Notices and the like, apparently compiled
before the Expedition. Written on paper watermarked
1828. This volume is marked C.
I have said that the best life of Smith is that written by his
nephew Alexander Michie in 1876, four years after Smith's
death. Since the journal in which it appeared is rarely met
with, I have thought it desirable to reprint it here, and to give
the life of Smith in the words of one who had for long known
him personally, rather than attempt to write a fresh one to which
I cowd have added little beyond the details which I have given
elsewhere in this preface.

II. Memoir of Sir Andrew Smith, M.D., K.C.B., F.R.S., F.Z.S.,

elt., Dint/or G1,,eral of the MeJital Departmlfll of lhl British
Anl!J, b.J Akxander Mithie, Vite-Pnsitlmt of lhl Hmvitk
.Artht.llololital S odet,y. 1
Sir Andrew Smith, K.C.B., formerly Director General of the
Medical Department of the .A%my, was born on the 3rd Decem-
ber, 1797, at Heronhall, in the parish ofKirkton, Roxburghshire.
1 In the l'ro&flllings of th1 Benichhirr Na11tralist1' CIM/J, 1876J VoL vili,
No. 1, pp. 53-46. A reprint of the ' Memoir ' is in the library ot the South
African Museum, Cape Town; the present author possesses a complete
copy of this number of the Proctuling. Two letters and ll few footnotes
have been omitted from this "Memoir," together with a bibliography of
worb by Smith. A full bibliography will appear in the ICCOl1d volume
of the Diary.
 INTRODUCTION

He was the son of Thomas Smith, a man, active and faithful

in the discharge of all the duties of life. His mother was a woman
of great mental power and Christian worth, and the family
consisted of two sons, and three daughters, of whom Andrew
was the first born.
At an early age, he was sent to a school at Stohs, but made
little progress, the teacher, being of a harsh dis(>osition, fre-
quently submitting him to unmerciful flogging, which produced
in his mind an aversion to study. Too frequently he was found
playing the part of the truant, spending his time in gathering
wild flowers, hunting butterflies, or searching for bird nests.
In 1809, the family having removed to Hassendean, he at-
tended the parish school of Minto, and afterwards that of
Lilliesleaf, where, under more favourable auspices than at Stohs,
he made most satisfactory progress with his education.
The medical profession having been chosen as his future
sphere of action, he was placed under the care of Mr. Walter
Graham, of Hawick, a surgeon of extensive practice in the town
and surrounding district.
In lhJ, he proceeded to Edinburgh, where he pursued,
with diligence, ardour, and success, his studies in the University.
Being desirous of enter~j the Medical Department of the
16
Army, and having fully q · ed himself for the service, in the
summer of 1811 he made application, and repaired to London
to undergo the preliminary examinations ; his hopes of a favour-
able issue, however, being slight owing to the reduction of the
strength of the army, consequent on the return of peace after
the decisive victory of Waterloo. He passed the necessary
examinations with credit to himself, and satisfaction to all the
members of the Board ; a treatise on the eye having espccially
roduced a most favourable impression on the mind of Sir

l ames M'Gregor, the Director General. On the l 1th August,

e was greatly gratified by being ~ettcd an Hospital Assistant ;
and there is good reason to believe that he was the youngest
officer ever admitted to the Department. For three years he did
temporary duty at various home stations, and had medical charge
of troops going to, or returnin~ from, Malta, Nova Scotia, and
Canada. In 18!8, and follow1ng year, he was quartered at
Edinburgh, and while there, embraced the opportunity of
attending all the classes in the University and Surgeon's Hall,
 INTRODUCTION

which he had not been able to overtake formerly. At the

conclusion, on the znd August, 1819, he graduated as M.D.
The subject of his inaugural dissertation was " De Variolis
Sccondariis." During this period he was an occasional contri·
butor to the Edinburgh Medical Journal.
In 18zo, Dr. Smith was ordered to the Cape of Good Hope,
where he remained till 1837. For short periods, he had medical
charge there of the 49th and 98th Regiments and Cape Mounted
Rifle Corps ; and was also frequently employed by successive
Governors in confidential missions to the Kaffir and other tribes
beyond the frontier. As South Africa has ever presented an
attractive fidd to the naturalist, his leisure hours were spent in
the enthusiastic pursuit of his favourite study ; and he entered
into the work with all the ardour of his nature. In a few years his
collection of objects of natural history contained many valued
treasures ; which, on the formation of the museum in conncc·
tion with the South African Institution, were presented by him
for exhibition there. From the first, Dr. Smith took great
interest in the prosperity of that institution, and, by his exertions,
contributed greatly to its success.1 From time to time the result
of his observations on the zoology of the country, embodied in
eapers, were read at the meetings, and published in the Quarterly
Journal.
In 18z4, Dr. Smith was sent by Lord Charles Somerset, the
Governor, on a mission into Kaffirland, and while there, in
that and the following year, he had much intercourse with
Gaika and other chiefs of note. His manly, upright dealings,
gained the confidence of the people, and his unceasing efforts,
as a medical man, to rdieve their sufferings, obtained the love
and gratitude of all.
In 1lz8, owing to the existence of great dissatisfaction on
the northern border of the colony, in consequence of the
marauding practices of the Bushmen of the Orange river,
Dr. Smith was commissioned by Sir R. Bourke (who had suc-
ceeded Lord Chas. Somerset) to proceed thither to obtain in-
formation regarding their views, and ascertain from them,

1 I have recently. proved, from official documents, that Smith actually

foW1dcd the South African Museum in June, 1Bzs, and was its first Director.
 INTRODUCTION Ij

whether the policy of the Government was correctly understood

and appreciated. His report recommended several changes,
some of which were adopted with good results. One of the
fruits of this journey was the publication, at Capetown, of his
"Origin and History of the Bushmen," which was afterwards
translated into the French, German, and other languages.
In consequence of the exterminating wars of Chaka, the
Zulu potentate, having depopulated the well-watered and fertile
district for a considerable distance around Port Natal, a dis-
trict more favoured by Nature than any other in South Africa,
a strong desire was evinced by the inhabitants of the Cape that
it should be opened up for colonization. In 1830 it was de-
cided by Sir Lowry Cole, the new Governor, to send Dr. Smith
to examine the country, and report the result of his observations.
This was a service of no little danger, owing to the ferocious
character of Dingaan, the brother and successor of Chaka ;
and also to the treacherous and barbarous massacre of Lieut.
Farewell, and seven of his party, the previous year, when on their
way to Port Natal, by a chief who had fled from the yoke of
Dingaan. Notwithstanding these and other discouraging influ-
ences, Dr. Smith, accompanied by his friend Lieut. Edie, and a
Dutch farmer, set out on the mission. They proceeded on their
way till they reached the Umzimvubu, where their passage to the
river was stoutly opposed by the inhabitants of an Amaponda
kraal situated near its banks. Neither the tact nor persuasive
powers of Dr. Smith, nor his offer of valuable presents, could
conciliate the people ; so nothing remained for the party
but to force its way. All efforts having failed, it was intimated
that, at sunrise on the morrow, they would proceed on their
journey. Accordingly, all were early astir, making preparations
for departure; the Amaponda gathering round and sullenly
looking on. At the appointed time, when all was ready for the
advance, Dr. Smith, Lieut. Edie, and the farmer, well mounted
and armed, led the way, the wagons followed, while the rear
was formed by the servants of the party. The Amaponda,
with threats, accompanied them to the river, but the opposite
bank was reached in safety. When all were over, Dr. Smith
intimated that the presents were still available, and sent them
to a small island in the middle of the stream. After much hesi-
tation, one man ventured to meet the messengers. The people
on recovering the gifts were wild with delight, loudly pro-
C
16 INTRODUCTION

claiming their ftlendship, and invited the party to rctum home

the same way.
The Umzimvubu was the eastern boundary of the country
which had been devastated by Chaka. From this river to tho
Tugcla, a distance of about z40 miles, it had been utterly
ravaged ; so much so, that not more than fifty person.q were
seen in the whole territory; except in the immediate vicinity
of Port Natal, where a number of natives, the remains of the
original inhabitants, having left their hiding places, had gathered
for protection around the English traders and hunters, settled
there. The party having reached the Tugela, the southern
boundary of the Zulu dominion, it became necessary to proceed
with the utmost circumspection, as two years had only elapsed
since Chaka had been assassinated at the instigation of Dingaan ;
which deed, had been followed by the slaughter of all, who,
i.a any degree, had been suspected of having disapproved of the
policy of the new king. Dr. Smith advanced with caution,
and was favourably received by the savage monarch at his prin-
cipal kraal, situated on the Umslatosi river. While there,
many opportunities were afforded of witnessing the galling
nature of Dingaan's rule ; death being the penalty for many
offences, which in less barbarous communities would not have
been regarded as crimes. Dr. Smith, one morning, saw the
lifeless bodies of thirteen women, who had been killed by order
of the king, and whose only fault had been, that they had re-
minded him of a promise made to them, the fulfilment of which
they considered had been too long deferred. To impress his
visitors with his power, he reviewed several of his favourite
regiments, each about a thousand strong, all well drilled,
well armed, and active men. To honour them, he had an ex-
hibition of war and other dances, &c. On the other M11d he
sought information regarding the white king and his soldiers,
the arts and usages of civilized society, and other matters of
interest to him. Having fully attained the objects for which the
journey was undertaken they set out on their return to the
colony. On the way, Dr. Smith was attacked by a sudden
and serious illness, but had the good fortune to experience the
tender and unwearied care of Mrs. Shepstone, wife of the Rev.
Mr. Shepstone, Wesleyan Missionary i.a Kaffirland. In due
time they arrived in safety at the Cape, having been absent
about six months. Dr. Smith's report, which was characterized
 INTP.ODUCTIOM 17
as " an able, comprehensive, and statesmanlike document,"
strongly recommended that the depopulated district should
be opened for colonization. The Governor highly approved
of this being done, while a former Governor, who had pre-
viously disapproved of the scheme, united in urging its adoption.
But the policy of the Home Government at the time was to
curtail rather than to extend the boundaries of our colonial
empire. On this account, the recommendation was not carried
out till circumstances arose in I 842, which compelled the colonial
office to take action, and led ultimately to the formation of the
colony of Natal. Having arrived at this decision, the position
of Licut.-Govcrnor was offered in the first instance to Dr.
Smith, which honour, however, be deemed it to be his duty
to decline.
In 1829, a small party of traders having penetrated into the
interior till they reached the Matabcli territory, ruled by Um-
silligas, better known by bis Sechuana cognomen of Moselekatse,
great anxiety was manifested at the Cape for a more accurate
knowledge of the tribes, the geographical features, and natural
productions of the country. Accordingly, there was formed at
Capetown, in 1833, the Association for the Exploration of
Central South Africa, and an influential committee was ap-
pointed, who, in a few weeks, reported that they had made the
offer of the direction to Dr. Smith, being of opinion that " few
persons, if any other in the colony, could have been selected so
well qualified for the undertaking by scientific acquirements,
ieal, courage, activity, and experience as a traveller." It was
arranged that his old fellow traveller to Natal, Capt. Edie, should
go as second in command. The Expedition was to include a
surveyor and draughtsman, a non-commissioned officer, and
a small party of soldiers, as guards to the wagons, of which.
seven were considered necessary to secure the success of the
undertaking.
In addition to the objects contemplated by the Association,
Dr. Smith was commissioned by Sir Lowry Cole to confer
with the chiefs of the principal tribes, in order to induce them
to give up their barbarous practices, to accord a more favourable
reception to traders, and protection to Christian missionariee.
Before arrangements were completed, considerable difficulty
was experienced in obtaining the required number of Hottentot
I8 INTRODUCTION
servants. The memory of the disastrous results of former ex-
peditions, and the real or fancied danger of the present, deterred
them for a time ; but after much exertion the full complement
was engaged; and in August, 1834, the company, numbering
thirteen Europeans and twenty Hottentots, left Graaf£ Reinet.
Travelling by moderate stages across the parched karroo, they
reached, in about a fortnight, Philippolis, the capital of the
Griquas. From this place a detour was made to visit the Coranna,
Basutu, and Mantatee tribes, and to examine the country toward
the sources of the Caledon river. The primary objects for which
this journey was undertaken were successfully accomplished;
but the satisfaction was clouded by a serious accident to Capt.
Edie, which deprived the expedition of his services ; by the
death, by drowning, of Corporal McKe0%ie, 72nd Regiment;
and by one of the men being carried off by a lion.
The party returned to Philippolis in the end of November, and
after a few days rest, set out for Kuruman, crossing, in the be-
ginning of January, I83s, the Vaal iiver; which, being in full
flood, was effected with great difficulty and no little danger. In
the end of the month they arrived at Kuruman, and were
heartily welcomed by the Rev. Messrs. Hamilton and Moffat, the
latter entering into Dr. Smith's plans with characteristic zeal.
It being deemed expedient to open communication with
Moselekatse before advancing further, two messengers were
despatched to Mosiga, then the residence of that chief, with
strict injunctions to proceed with all haste, and return without
delay. Meanwhile, Dr. Smith decided, with a small party, to
explore the borders of the Kalahari desert. Both men and oxen
suft'ered intensely from hunger and thirst, the only supply of
water for several days being obtained from pits of great depth,
dug in the dry river beds by the poor Bakalahari. Ample com-
pensation was, however, obtained by the addition of many
rare specimens to the already rich collection of objects of Natural
History. On the return of the messengers from Mosiga with
a favourable reply, and a guide to conduct the party thither,
preparations were at once made for the cominuation of the
Journey ; and, it being deemed desirable that Mr. Moffat should
accompany the expedition to Mosclekatse, that gentleman
readily acceded to the proposal, though at considerable sclf-
sacrifice. They set out from Kuruman at the end of April,
were joined by Mr. Moftat, at Motito~ then the most advanced
 INTRODUCTION
.missionary station in South Africa, and, though the tribes were
in an unsettled state, they reached the Molapo river safely.
This being the western boundary of the Matabcli country,
they had to wait for permission to go on. This having been
obtained, in a few days they arrived at Mosiga, and were re-
ceived in a friendly manner by the king, who expressed his
anxiety to render to the expedition whatever aid might be con-
sidered necessary. Mr. Moffat remained with Moselekatse
while Dr. Smith went on to the tropics, exploring the Oori,
Mariqua, and Limpopo rivers. For a time great obstacles were
thrown in the ~y of the advance of the party, the king having
professed great solicitude for the safety of Dr. Smith, while
111 reality it was believed his sole object was to prevent a know-
ledge of the extent of the desolation of the country, and of the
misery entailed on the conquered tribes. Aided by the remon-
strances of Mr. Moffat, however, all impediments were removed,
though it was evident the guides seemed more anxious to pre-
vent communication with the inhabitants, than to facilitate the
acquisition of information from them. Beyond the Matabcli
Territory proper, much valuable information was derived from
the Baquain and Bamanguato tribes. From the former, the know-
ledge of the existence of a large fresh water lake was obtained.
On many points, the statements were vague and unsatisfactory,
but as to its existence there was no discrepancy whatever. Under
more favourable auspices an effort would have been made to have
reached it, but in consequence of the dry season, the death of a
number of the oxen, the reduced condition of the remainder, and
other untoward circumstances, it was clear that it would have been
courting a misfortune to have made the attempt ; while the
successful return to the colony, of the expedition, held out the
hope of future efforts being followed by favourable results.
As soon as the necessary observations were made on the sur-
rounding country, they set out on their homeward journey,
by way of Mosiga, Kuruman, and Gri9uatown, and in due time
reached the colony after an absence of eighteen months.
African exploration is not without stirring adventure, and
zoological researches in that country arc sometimes attended
with great peril, as not a few incidents in this and former
journeys could testify. With the exception of the untoward
events already mentioned, however, everything had fulfilled
the most sanguine hopes of the promoters. Friendly intercourse
 lNTRODt1GnON
bad been entered into with a.bout thirty tribes, a. good under-
standing bad been established with nearly all the chiefs, much
valuable information bad been acquired regarding the manners
and customs of the peo~le, and the natural resources of the coun-
try ; while the expedition returned laden with upwards of five
thousand specimens of new or rare quadrupeds, birds, and other
objects of Natural History, nearly five hundred drawings of the
people, scenery of the country, &c., and eighteen hundred
implements, weapons of war, ornaments, and other articles of
interest.
The successful completion of the entererise was due in a
great degree to the harmony and good will, which prevailed
among the principal members of the party ; and to the valuable
assistance rendered by the Rev. Messrs Kolbe, Archbell, Allison,
and Moffat, especially the last, who, having previously visited
Moselekatsc, bad gained his confidence and esteem, and so was
in a position to render invaluable service. Dr. Smith was also
under great obligation to Waterboor, the chief of Griquatown,
who was particularly kind and communicative. To Moshcsh,
the Basutu chief, he was under a deep debt of gratitude, for bis
kindness and solicitude for the comfort and safety of the~·
The most favourable impression was produced on the nund of
Dr. Smith, by the frank and manly bearing of this chief, and by
his great intelligence and liberality of sentiment.
On the return of the expedition, a general meeting of the
members of the Association was held at upetown, Sir John
Herschel presiding, when Dr. Smith received a most cordial
reception, and the warmest thanks were tendered to him and the
other members. It was resolved to place a portion of the collec-
tion in the museum at upctown, ~ that the remainder should
be sent home for exhibition in London, and ultimate sale for
the benefit of the funds of the Association.
In 1837, Dr. Smith returned to England, was promoted to
the rank of surgeon, and stationed at Fort Pitt, Cliatbam. The
succeeding year a representation was made to the Lords of the
Treasury by Lord Glenelg, Colonial Secretary, supported by
the late Bari of Minto, with a view to obtain a grant to enable
the association to publish Dr. Smith's " Illustrations of the
Zoology of South Africa," at a price within the teach of natural-
ists of modc:ate means. The application was favouubly to-
 INTRODUCTION

aponded to by a grant of £1,800, and Dr. Smith, in the

interest of science, completed the work without any personal
pecuniary remuneration whatever. This work is the best
evidence of the high position to which he attained as a naturalist,
It was his purpose also to have published the "Journal of the
Expedition ;,, but a severe and protracted illness laid him
asiae from active duties for a considerable time ; and for several
years his health was unequal to the extra work involved in
the publication. It, however, has not been wholly lost, as much
of the information, and many of the illustrations have appeared
in some of the most widely known books of African travellers,
and men of science.
Dr. Smith's professional advancement had been slow hitherto,
but in 1841, he was made staff-surgeon of the first class, and
appointed P.M.O. at Chatham. In 1841, he was promoted to the
rank of Deputy Inspector of Hospitals, and transferred to
London as professional assistant to the Director General. On
the retirement of Sir James McGregor, in 18p, he was selected
by the Duke of Wellington to succeed him with the rank of
Superintendent-Inspector General, and in 1853 he received the
status of Director General.
These successive appointments were received with approba-
tion by the Medical and other journals, and satisfaction by the
great body of the medical officers in the army ; he being es-
teemed, by those best qualified to form a correct opinion, as
" a man of talent and high professional acquirements, of ready
and acute business habits,,, and "of high principle, in whom
the utmost confidence could be placed."
While endeavouring faithfully and efficiently to discharge his
official duties, Dr. Smith had sufficient leisure to devote to
scientific pursuits. He was elected a Fellow of the Royal Society
and the Zoological Society, and of other associations of similar
character. At this period his favourite study was the Class
Reptilia, and he spared neither trouble nor expense in making
his collection as complete as possible. Having numerous
friends in all parts of the world, he received specimens from time
to time, from every quarter, so that his collection was acknow-
ledged to be the best in that particular department, of any in
Great Britain.
1bc aggressive policy of Russia in the East ba'ring led to a
declaration of war hr the British Go"f'emm.ent, it devol"f'ed on
.21 INTRODUCnON
Dr. Smith, as head of the Medical Department of the Army,
to make provision for the proper care of the troops, which might
be called on to take part in the struggle. To this task he brought
all his energy, forethought, and administrative ability, and, long
before the army was called on to take the 6dd, he seemed to
have anticipated every want ; but in a short time grievous
charges were brought against the department in the Crimea,
chiefly by the correspondents of a leading metropolitan journal ;
and then followed a storm of obloquy, which burst around the
head of the Director-General at home. Attacks so violent in
tone are fortunatdy rare in the history of British journalism,
and Dr. Smith, again and again, was urged by his friends to
defend himself from the charges brought against him, or allow
those who were cognizant of the facts to do so. His invariable
reply was," that the truth would be known some day, and that
he could afford to wait ; meanwhile, he would, to the utmost
of his power, seek to do his duty." Into the merits of those
charges it would be inexpedient to enter, but in justice to the
memory of a most efficient and meritorious officer, it is necessary
to say, that the tone of many of the letters and articles seemed
to indicate that other and less worthy motives were in opeia-
tion. than an anxiety for the good of the service, or a solicitude
for the welfare of the troops. The defeat of the ministry of
the Earl of Aberdeen and the accession to power of Lord Palmer-
ston, led to the appointment of the Sebastopol Committee, before
which Dr. Smith gave evidence, and put in papers thoroughly
clearing himsdf from the charges ; and proving to all un-
biassed minds, that, whoever was to blame for the disasters,
assuredly it was not the Director-General. When Lord Palmer-
ston assumed the reins of Government, he promised great chane;es
in the constitution of the Medical Department ; changes which
Dr. Smith considered would decidedly operate to the injury of
the service. Subsequently, the whole subject of the Adminis-
tration of the ~rtment and its future constitution. was
submitted for consideration to a Committee of the House of
Commons, and after much inquiry and patient deliberation. a
report was presented, which, on the leading points, supported
fully the views of Dr. Smith. After these enquiries, the tide of
opinion turned decidedly in his fa~our, an~ on every side,
justice was done to his merits. His medical brethren embraced
the opportunity of bearing testimony to their appreciation of
 INTRODUCTION

his services, and he was dected an Honorary Fellow of the Royal

College of Physicians, London ; of Surgeons, Edinburgh ;
of the Faculty of Physicians and Surgeons, Glasgow ; and of
the Medico Chirurgical Society of Aberdeen; while the Univer-
sity of Edinburgh conferred on him the degree of LL.D. ;
and Trinity College, Dublin, that of M.D. (Honoris Causi) ;
these honours being accompanied with addresses, couched
in terms expressive of the greatest admiration of his character
and confidence in his administrative capacity.
The strain of the direction of the department during the war
had been too severe for the somewhat impaired constitution
of the Director-General, but he remained at his post till there
had been issued from the press the " Medical History of the
British Army," and documents arranged for the information
and guidance of his successors in any future war, and then,
having served his country for forty-two years, he sought to be
rdieved of his duties.
Her Majesty the Queen who, both personally and through
his friend, Sir James Clarke, had repeatedly expressed her
sympathy for him under trying circumstances, now conferred
on him the dignity of K.C.B., which honour was a source of
gratification to his friends, and to the profession of which he
was a member. The Medical Ti1111.r, in a leading article, adverting
to this, said that " the conspicuous and comprehensive ability,
the industrious and energetic zeal, the self-denying devotion
to the welfare of the soldiery, and of the medical staff, which
Sir Aii.drew Smith displayed, from February, 18s4, the date of
his preliminary enquiries and measures in Bulgaria, until the
embarkation of the sick at Scutari, in June, 1Ss6; tried and
proved by this incontestable evidence, we most conscientiously
pronounce the subject of this notice to have well merited the
grateful and opportune reward conferred on him by his
sovereign."
Freed from the cares of office, he had ample time to bestow
on those studies which had ever been so congenial to his dis-
position, and, for a few years, he devoted great attention to
African exploration, but more especially to all that had reference
to the native tribes inhabiting the southern portion of that
continent.
 INTllODOCTION

All circumstances seemed to give promise of a serene old

age, when he would reap the fruits of a well-spent life of activity
and usefulness ; but in 1864, he was called to mourn the loss
of her, who for more than twenty years, had been the cheerful,
warmhearted and faithful partner of his lot ; and the death of
Lady Smith, was followed the succeeding year, by that of a
loving gentle sister, to whom he was ardently attached, and
whose tender sympathy for him, in his great loss, had been as
balm to his wounded spirit. Lonely, stricken with grief, and the
infirmities of years gathering around him, he lost nearly all
interest in those pursuits which formerly had been his delight;
and, toward the close of his life, most of his time was given to
the perusal of books of devotion, and the study of the Holy
Scriptures.
In the spring of 1872, the state of his health and other cir-
cumstances gave great anxiety to his friends. During the summer
he appeared to have rallied, and hopes were entertained that all
would be well, but on the 6th of August, when out for a drive,
he was suddenly seized with illness and taken home ; and,
notwithstanding the assiduous care of his ordinary medical
attendant, and of his friends, Sir William Jenner and Mr. Quain,
he gradually sunk till the morning of the following Sunday,
when he peacefully passed away in the nth year of his age.
Sir Andrew Smith was a man of great force of character, of
untiring industry and perseverance, and of unbending integrity.
Doubtless his energy and decision would occasionally seem to
lead to impetuosity ; and his firmness of purpose, at times, ap-
proach to something like obstinacy ; yet these qualities enabled
him to overcome difficulties, which to men of less inflexible re-
solution, would have proved insurmountable. Though he ever
maintained strict discipline in the department over which he
presided, he was always found to be the firm and constant friend
of the man, who faithfully sought to do his duty.
In private life he was genial and kind-hearted, a man who
could never look on distress of any kind without doing his
utmost to relieve it. He was loved and respected by all who
knew him, but most by those who knew him best.
Ill. Tbl Copiof Gootl Hopi Assodldin for Explori•g C1•lrol.Afrlt11.
As the .. Memoir .. of Andrew Smith clearly shows, he wa1 one
o£ the mo"Ying spiriu of hie time in scientific research in South
 INTllODUCTION .,
Africa, and there seems to me little doubt that the conception of
the 1834 Expedition was principally due to him.
His previous journeys bad convinced him of the necessity for
exploring adequatdy the northern parts of South Africa, and I
find that this idea had formed itself in his mind so early as the
year 18z.9, doubtless as a result of the reports of traders who
had visited those localities.
The earliest of these was that of Bain and Biddulph. Bain
had been the first to avail himself of the permission granted by
the Government to open up trade in those areas, and he actually
travclled north in 18z.5.1 But in the following year he, together
with Biddulph, having journeyed as far as Chuc Lake, or
Honing Vley as it was often called (the most northerly point
reached by Burchcll), proceeded in a north-easterly direction
and actually penetrated to Litubaruba, then the chief town of
the K wena, now known as Molepolole. •
Bain kept a journal during this journey, and extracts from it
were printed in the SONth Afri'tJll Q1111rter!J ]omna/ for July-
Scptember, 1830, having been communicated to that publication
by Mr. J. C. Chase, who later was to become the Hon. Secretary
to the Cape of Good Hope Association for Exploring Central
Africa.• Without question Bain blazed a new trail on this trek.
Smith was wcll acquainted with Bain, and I do not doubt that
he had early information of his experiences.
In 1819 a second trading expedition had gone north, headed
by Schoon and McLuckie. These two travellers left Boctsap,
and proceeded in a north-easterly direction, following more or
less the route taken by the missionary John Campbell in 18z.o,
and not only reached what is now called the Zcerust district of
the Transvaal, but also apparently travelled for some distance
along the present Magaliesberg range.
Like Bain, these traders kept a journal,' and the substance of
it was read to the South African Institution of Cape Town by
1 Steedman, A., W1111J.ritw t»lll .Adnntlll'u 111 11H /111,,;w If St11111HnJ
.Afri"'• London.1851, Vol. ii, pp. 18,-184.
1 Livingstone, D., Mi.uioMry Tr-ls tlllJ Jllugu!Jfs ;,, St1111b AjrlM,
London, 1817, pp. 9 and u.+
' Reprinted in TIM Afrimn M011tb{y, Grahamatown, 1908. Vol. IT. pp.
121-2.,a, ~41-H4 and 485-489.
' Owe a pr«U will be found reprinted in Steedman, A., •P· t/J., Vol. U.
pp. 18s-1a7.
 INTRODUCTION

Oiase,1 together with the communication of a missionary,

who was none other than Robert Moffat, of the London Mis-
sionary Society.
Smith's interest in the descriptions of the country and of its
animal life which he had obtained from these sources, and from
his reading of the works of previous travellers, made him
determined to visit the north himself, for we read in The CajJI
of Good Hope liflrary G~ette for Wednesday, June 16, 1830,
the following paragraph, reprinted from The Etlinb11rgh Jollf'tlld
of Srien(t:
"It is understood that Sir George Murray has given per-
mission for an expedition to start under the care of Dr. A. Smith,
and at the expense of Government. Dr. Smith is fully con-
vinced of the possibility of penetrating to, and reaching, that
part of the country situated under the Line, of which we are
yet ignorant. The application of Dr. Smith to the British Govern-
ment for its countenance to the undertaking has been warmly
supported by the present Governor of the Cape, Sir Lowry Cole."
However, we hear no more of this particular scheme ; instead,
we find Smith going on a journey to Nata.I, to visit the Zulu
chief, Dingaan, on beha.lf of the Cape Government. The
decision to send Smith to examine and report on Natal was made
by Sir Lowry Cole in 1830.1 The actual journey, on which he
was accompanied by his friend Lieut. Edie, of the 98th Regiment,
and by a. farmer, took place during the latter part of 1831 and
the early part of 1831, 1 and it occupied about six months.
But in an unsigned letter written from Mount Ellis, and dated
18th February, 1831, we read "Much valuable information is
expected to be derived from my friend Dr. A. Smith, Staff
Surgeon . . . He is on a journey from the Colony direct to
Port Nata.I, from thence he intends to proceed to the Interior
beyond Latakoo and the Griquas •.. ,, '
1 Thi CojH of Good HojH Littrory G~1111, Cape Town, 1850, issue of
Wednesday, 2nt
1
J.uly. p. 22.
Michie, A., ' Memoir of Sir Andrew Smith," in Pr!Jffltlings of tlH
&r!Pitluhir1 NoJNralists' C/11b, 1876, Vol. vili, No. l, p. SS·
1 Steedman, A., op. tit., Vol. ii, p. 290, quotes from the d~ of the
missionary Boyce, showing that in December, 1851, Smith and &be passed
through his station. Morlcy, near the mouth of the Umtata River, on their
wav to Dingaan.
' Archives, Cape Town. C.O. 1520, despatch No. 15 52, ia which the letter
ia question was enclosed.
 INTRODUCTION

Smith's return from Natal was announced in the Literary

Gaz.ette, for Monday, July .2., 1832,1 and mention was also made
of the accounts which he gave of the journey. He did not,
however, carry out his plan to travel across country to Lattakoo,
or Kuruman as it is called to-day. Nevertheless he lost no time,
on his return, to whip up public interest in his pet scheme.
There were in Olpe Town at this time two societies, one
literary and the other scientific in outlook ; these were the
Literary Society and the South African Institution. Smith
attempted to bring these two groups together for the common
object, and succeeded in amalgamating them in July, 1832, the
President of the combined Society, which was named The South
African Literary and Scientific Institution, being the Hon. Col.
John Bell, C.B. •
But in the early part of 18H a third pair of traders returned
from the north. These were Hume and Millen, who had been
away for about two years, during which time they had travelled
north of Lattakoo, and had apparently succeeded in reaching
the Tropic of Capricorn. Theu account of the journey had
been transmitted to the Governor, Sir Lowry Cole, who sent
it on to the Literary and Scientific Institution. It was read at the
Ordinary Meeting for 5th June, and created enormous interest.
In fact it brought matters to a head, and it was pro_posed that
" an attempt should be made to send a Scientific Expedition
to those regions, with the object of elucidating their Geography,
the nature of their Productions, and the Advantages they may
offer to Commercial Enterprize. " 1 The proposal was carried
unanimously, but since the Institution lacked the funds necessary
for financing such an expedition, it was agreed to make the
scheme public, and to invite all who might be interested to
become shareholders, such shareholders to be entitled to a
participation in the collections which might be acquired by the
1 Thi Cop._ of Goal Ho/JI Liltrat".) G~1111, Cape Town, 1832, isaue of
Monday, 211d July, p. 356.
• JWJ., issue of Wednesday, 11t Augu1t, 1852, p. 5p..
• Poper; ;,, /Ufmtt# lo a Pion for t111 Exp,Jilios i11lo CmlraJ Afri&o fro•
1hl Cojlt of Good Hope ; Advertismg sheet of 4 pp. issued with Thi Co.f'_ of
Good Ho}JI LJt"Ot".J ~'"'for Monday, 11t July, 1853. The' papers are
as follows : 1, Prospectus ; 2, Expedioon into Ccntnl Africa; 5, Busincsa
transacted at Adjourned Meeting ; 4, Ccntnl Africa ; 5, List of Shareholders,
At the end is an advertisem~t for a 'OIUIC of lcc:tufa.
:as INTRODUCTION
Expedition. It was estimated that not less than £600 would
be required, and it was proposed that this should be raised by
ahares of £3 each. It was further proposed that Dr. Smith be
made Director of the Expedition, should he be able to obtain
leave, and that a qualifiea Surveyor should be engaged to ac·
company him if possible ; that the Director should collect all
objects connected with the purposes already described ; that
the sole power to sell or dispose of the articles acquired by the
Expedition should rest with the shareholders, to be determined
by their votes, each share entitling the holder to one vote ;
that as soon as a sufficient number of shareholders had sub-
scribed, a General Meeting should be held, for the purpose of
decting a Committee of Organisation ; that with a view to
ascertaining the probability of raising the amount necessary,
a Prospectus should be prepared and placed in the Public
Library, the C.Ommercial Exchange, the South African Museum
and the leading newspaper offices ; that the fourteen gentlemen
present at the meeting should form a Provisional Committee
to attempt to catty the plan into effect, the Chairman being
Mr. J. H. Neethling, and the Hon. Secretary Mr. J. C. Chase;
and that copies of the Prospectus should be sent to various towns
on the Eastern Frontier, with a request for support. One
hundred copies of the Prospectus were printed for circulation,
and in addition it was reprinted in Thi CajJI of GooJ Hop
Utrrary Gaz.ettt 1 and in the newspapers.
The response was excellent, for on the 24th June, at a public
meeting convened by advertisement, and held in the Great
Museum Room of the Institution, for the purpose of electing a
C.Ommittee of Management for the proposed Expedition, the
Governor being in the chair, it was reported that the Provisional
C.Ommittee had recdved the names of 141 subscribers, who had
taken 179 shares, yielding a total of £137.
A number of minor resolutions were then taken, which
included the fixing of the Management Committee at twenty
persons, who were to be elected by ballot ; that the British
Government should be approached for financial assistance ;
and that the Secretary should forward an Account of the Pro-
ceedings of the meeting to a number of gentlemen resident in
Albany, Bathurst, Port Elizabeth, Somerset, Uitenhage, Graaff-
1 ViM previoua note.
 INTRODUcnON

Rcinct, Kat River, C,affraria and Lattakoo. 1 The Meeting was

then adjourned to the following day, when, with the Hon.
Col. Wade in the chair, the ruimcs of the Management Committee
were read out and declared elected.
No time was lost by the Committee of the new " C.apc of
Good Hope Association for Exploring Central Africa," as the
organisation was now called. Its first meeting was held on
1.,tti June, when Rev. Dr. Burrow and Mr. Chase were elected
secretaties. 1 It was announced that of the 100 shares originally
proposed, 191 had been taken; but as it was considered that
[,600 would not be sufficient for such an important undertaking,
they now intended to try and raise £ 1,000. A Finance Committee
was therefore appointed to approach European Scientific Societies
for further funds. Several applications had been received from
persons desirous of joining the Expedition, some of whom
had scientific qualifications, and these were referred to a sub-
committee for consideration, which was instructed to report to
Dr. Smith, the Director of the Expedition, and to arrange with
him the various details connected with the project.
The Sub-Committee met on Monday, tst July,• and reported
the result of their labours on Tuesday, 9th July, to the General
Committee of the Association.• Its report confirmed the ap-
pointment of Dr. Smith as Director of the Expedition, pro'Vided
that he could obtain leave, and stated that arrangements had
been made for Lieut. Edie to accompany him, and take command
in case of sickness or any accident befalling Dr. Smith. It set
forth the objects of the journey more fully than had been pre-
viously done, emphasising the point that the Expedition was
intended "to enlarge our Geographical Knowledge of the
extensive and unknown regions to the Northward of this Settle-
ment ; to obtain Scientific Information, especially as regards the
branches of Meteorology, Geology and MagnetISm; to collect
Botanical Specimens and those of Natural History ; and to ascer-
tain what J:>rospects the productions of the country and the dis-
position Of the Native Tribes hold out to Commercial Enter-
prise."•
1 P111"1 ;,, &fmM1 lo• P/1111, etc., Cape Town, 11,,, p. a,
I Ililt/,, p, ,,
'• lhltl.,J. '~ -
Cmm Afl1#· Ab11rot1 of Pronlt/hlt.t. etc., Cape To'!IVQ, 1sn. p. 4.
' Ib/J., p. S·
JO INTRODUCTION

It was decided that the Expedition should start immediately

after the cessation of the tropical rains and that the starting point
should be Graaff-Reinet; that Graaff-Reinet should be left
at the commencement of June, and that Lattakoo (Kuruman)
or some further missionary establishment should be reached
by the middle of July in order that the party might rest until
the beginning of September and complete their final arrange-
ments therc.1
The Sub-Committee further put forward the following sugges-
tions relative to the personnel of the Expedition :
" The number of the party, it is proposed, shall not be less
than 40, and as few above that number as possible.
" Of these 6 shall be Europeans, to be engaged as working
assistants, and if possible they shall be soldiers, application to
be made for that purpose to the Government.
" That 30 Hottentots be engaged, and that 6 of these be
procured from the C.ape Corps, for which application shall also
be made to the Government.
" That a Botanist, a Surveyor, a Draftsman, capable of de-
lineating Landscape and portraying objects of Natural History,
and a person, able to conduct the trading department of the
Expedition, shall be engaged to accompany it.
"That the Caravan shall consist of 7 wagons, to each of which
five persons shall be attached out of the before enumerated
party, viz.: 1 European and 4 Hottentots; and that 10 span
of Oxen of 1 .z each, shall be purchased."
Then followed a list of the instruments and stores required
by the Expedition, including those for the purpose of Scientific
Inquiry, (or Subsistence and Health, for Defence and Supply
of Animal Food, for Repairs, etc., and for Trade and Presents.•
The Sub-Committee also stated that it had received ten ap-
plications for permission to accompany the Expedition, several
of which appeared to merit favourable consideration. It also
emphasised the point that it was desirable for the members of
the Expedition to appear " under the characters of Traders "

i Ibitl., PP• ~7•

I Ibitl., PP• B-9·
 INTRODUCTION

in order to gain the good will of the native peoples whom they
might meet."
The Report of the Sub-Committee having been approved, the
Association sent letters to
1. The Secretary of State for the Colonies, explaining the
objects of the Association, and asking for hdp and permission
from the British Government ;
2., The Secretary for War, likewise explaining the objects of
the Association, and asking for leave of absence for Dr. Smith ;
3. The Secretary of the Admiralty, requesting the loan of
certain scientific instruments in the Cape Town Observatory ;
+ The Secretary to the Admiralty, asking for assistance and
patronage;
s. Captain Kater, requesting the loan of certain apparatus
for " magnetical experiments " ;
6. The Commander-in-Chief at the Cape of Good Hope,
asking for the loan of certain arms, for a Sergeant and four
Privates of one of the Cape Regiments, and a Sergeant and four
Privates of the Cape Corps, to accompany the Expedition.1
The Association announced that His Excellency the Acting
Governor, Mr. C. F. H. von Ludwig and Mr. H.F. Wollaston
had each offered to lend several useful instruments to the Ex-
pedition, and that Major Michell, the Surveyor-General, had
promised to prepare a map for its use.
Finally it was stated that the total amount raised in the Colony
up to date through the issue of shares was £705, and it was
anticipated that more money and instruments would be con-
tributed in Britain. 1
Two of the subscribers to the Association's fund were Sir
John Herschel, Astronomer Royal at the Cape, and Thomas
Maclear, also of the Observatory ; both had been elected to the
Committee of Management. In a letter, dated 15th February,
1834, written to Captain Beaufort, of the Hydrographic Office,
London, by Maclear, we read that in a communication sent by

1
• Ibill., P· I,.
/bil/., PP· n-u .

:t>
 INTRODUCTION

Beaufort to Herschel he stated that an application had been

made by Dr. Burrow 1 and other gentlemen to the Lords Com-
missioners of the Admiralty, asking for the loan of certain in-
struments, and that their Lordships had written to the Admiral
commanding at the Cape (Admiral Warren), also suggesting,
that, should the Admiral not be there, Maclear should consult
with Herschel as to the propriety of lending suitable instru-
ments to the Expedition. Having received this permission,
Maclear made the necessary arrangements to hand over the
apparatus, but added in his reply to Beaufort the information
tnat, although nearly £800 had been subscribed towards the
cost of the Expedition, about £zoo more would be required
11
to complete the design." •
Meanwhile a general meeting had been held in Cape Town in
February, over which Sir Benjamin D'Urban, the new Governor,
presided, 1 and at which most of the influential persons of the
Cape district were present. The importance of the Expedition
was again stressed, and fresh subscriptions obtained, and the
fund thereby increased to nearly £1,000. Even this sum was
now regarded as inadequate, but hopes were entertained that
the Geographical Society of London and other scientific bodies
in England and India that had been written to would give some
assistance. Several weeks elapsed without " satisfactory in-
telligence," and a further intensive collecting campaign was about
to be embarked upon "when a letter was received from Mr.
J. McQueen, of Scotland, containing with less important matter
a donation of £300 under certain restrictions, the more prominent
of which was that his donation should not be available unless
£9so had been already subscribed."' This handsome donation
banished the financial cares of the Association at once, and they
began to prepare for action immediately.
l Letter, dated 25th February, 1834, writtca by Thomas Maclcar to
Caftain Beaufort, in Archives of the Royal 01*:rvatory, Cape.
Letter, dated 4th July, 1834. writtcll by Thomas Macleat to Capta.lo
Beaufort, in Archives of the Royal Obecrvatory, Cape. From this fetter
most of the details which follow were derived .
• /bk/.
' Ac.cording to Smith, A., IllMl1ratio11.1 of th. Zoohgy of Sa111b Afriu,
London. 1849, Vol. i, Preface, p. lil, McQuccn only lrfZllJmitl#tl the money,
the real donor being a Mr. Jamieson of Livcqiool Smith also gives the
awn as .[,aoo. Thi& is Wfaiig. See R.IJOl'I of lhl &Jwiitioa. etc., Cape Town,
JB36, P· 67.
 INTRODUCTION

There followed a period of great activity on the part of the

executive members of the Association and in particular of
J. C. Oiase, the Hon. Secretary, and, naturally, of Smith him-
self. The latter, to keep interest in the Expedition at boiling
point, reprinted in the Gaz.1111 a long letter which he had ad-
dressed to Sir James McGregor in England relative to his trip
to Zululand and the enormous scientific opportunities which tt
had afforded him. 1
Among the numerous letters written on behalf of the Associa-
tion by Oiase, several are of considerable interest.
One, written to Sir Benjamin D'Urban, contained a request
for the remission of sentence on one Andries Botha, who had
been imprisoned in Amsterdam Battery for culpable homicide,
in order that he might accompany the Expedition. The request
was granted, but later on Botha proved very troublesome to
the party, and, just before their return, he died, as will be seen
in the Diary.•
Another letter, sent to the Hon. J. G. Brink, Acting Secretary
to the Government, asked that a case of Philosophical Instru-
ments for the use of the Expedition, just arrived from England,
might be landed duty free. This was also granted by Sir Ben-
jamin D'Urban. • A third letter contained a similar request which
was likewise granted.'
A fourth letter embodied three requests. First, that a special
order should be issued for the removal of 400 lbs. of gunpowder
from the magazine to the brig ' Test,' which would carry it
to Algoa Bay, whence it would be transmitted beyond the North-
ern Frontier of the Colony ; second, that a special order be
issued empowering the Expedition to press horses, in case of
need, for a horse wagon to convey Dr. Smith and Captain Edie
to Graaff-Rcinet ; and third, that a special order be issued to
the effect that all letters transmitted to the party while beyond
the Colony should be sent on to the nearest Drostdy free of
charge. All were immediately granted by the Governor.•
1 Thi Caj>I of Good Hoj>I Lit1rary ~1tll, Cape Town, 1833, issue of
1st August, p. 132.
1 Archives, Cape Town. Sundry Committees, 893 (1835-1840), No. 19.
1 lbltJ., No. zo.
' Ibid., No. u.
' IIJIJ., No. 24-
34 INTRODUCTION

Emboldened by the support which had been so freely given

by Sir Benjamin D'Urbail, Chase wrote still another letter in
which he asked that the Civil Commissioner of Graaff-Reinct
should be reCJ.Uested to recommend to the farmers on the Zckoc
River the destrability of their giving every facility for the trans-
P'.Ort of seven loads of wheat, purchased for the use of the
Expedition, to Griquatown. The Governor was rather dubious
about this request, for he endorsed the letter " I can scarcely
ortlir this (for it is beyond the Frontier)," though he bad no
objection to writing to the Civil Commissioner asking him to
do what he could in the matter.1
The accumulation of stores went on apace.• Elephant guns,
beads, toys and other goods purchased in England had arrived
in Table Bay in May, and boarding pikes and other articles
had been supplied by the garrison at Cape Town and by private
individuals. Four wagons with ninety-six oxen had been pur-
chased and negotiations were being entered into for the ac-
quisition of a fifth, with twenty-four oxen. Smith provided his
own wagon and team.
The scientific instruments purchased by the Association were
as follows:
" A Sextant by Troughton,
A Hadley's Quadrant,
A Mountain Barometer by Troughton,
Two Lens Thermometers by Troughton,
A Trochometer by Wollaston,
An Azimuth Compass on Capt. Kater's construction,
A Level and Stand, and
A Symphosometer."
The apparatus lent by the Crown, on the advice of Sir J.
Herschel, included :
.. A Sextant by Thomas Jones,
An Artificial Mercurial Horizon,
A Six-inch Miner's Compass, and
Two Chronometers in Mahogany cases inclosed in
stuffed boxes, one by Barrand and the other by
Arnold."
i JlliJ., No. 26.
Letter, dated 4th July, J8J4. written by ThODllS Maclcar to UpWn
I
Beaufait, in Atcbivea of the ROyal Obiervatory, c..pe.
 lN'tRODUCTION

'the J>Ct'Onncl of the Expedition had also been decided upon.

There is some difficulty in finding out precisely what was the
full strength of the~· and in some cases even the names arc
doubtful. Three lists at least exist, one being that sent by
Maclcar to C.aptain Bcaufort,1 the second being contained in
the Rlporl of ihl Exptlitio•, • and the third being found in the
introduction to Smith's lll11Slrati0#.r of llN Zoolol.J oj Solllh Afrk11. 1
As Maclcar's letter was written on 4th July, I8J4, the day
after Smith's overland portion of the Expedition left the Ob-
servatory for Graaff-Rcinct, Maclcar himscff having been present
at the " send off," I consider that his list has the greatest weight,
such omissions as he made being readily accounted for. I give
his list in full, with his descriptions of the functions of the
various individuals.
Dr. Andrew Smith, Conductor of the Expedition,
C.aptain Edie, 98th Regt., .and do.,
John Burrow, Surveyor and Astronomer,
Geo. Ford, Draughtsman,
Chas. Bell, do.• and fit for anything,
C. Hartwell, Assistant in general capacity,
I. Mintcrn, Servant to Dr. Smith,
Two missionaries sent out by the Missionary Society
established at Berlin,
Three European soldiers (I of the 71nd and z of the 98th
Regta.), and
Five Hottentots of the C.ape Mounted RiB.c Corps ;
and he added :
About u Hottentots to be engaged at Graaff-Rcinct.
The IBJ6 list adds the names of E. Tennant, J . Low, H.
Corkercll and B. Kift, and deplores the loss of Corporal George
McKenzie of the 7znd Regiment, who was drowned in a tributary
of the Caledon River. The 1849 list adds the name of James
Terry. I have little doubt that most of these were soldiers; Kift,
however, was the trader of the Expedition, who possibly went

1 /bii/.
1 /Uj»rl 1/ tbl Bxpdlt/MI far &plwln1 Cllllrwl Afr'kll, etc., Cape Town,
·•~6. PJI: 66-67.
i Sau.th, A., lllllltr•llMI of lbl ZooJov of Solllll .Afrktl, Loodoo, 1849,
VoL 1, Prd'acc, p. iv.
 INTRODUCTION

ahead with some of the others either overland or by sea to

auange for the transport of the heavy baggage from Port
Elizabeth to Graaff-Rcinet ; the baggage had been shipped from
Table Bay on 26th June.1 C. Hartwell appears as C. Hastwcll
in the 1836 list, and as C. Haswell in that of 1849. The Chtistlan
name of Mintem, Smith's servant, was John. I cannot find
out anything about J. Low, but the I 849 list gives a Henry Lowe,
who was responsible for several of the zoological drawings,
most of which were drawn by Ford.
In the early part of June a second letter was received from
Mr. McQucen dated thtee weeks after his first communication,
in which he stated that the ship by which his letter containing
the donation was to be conveyed was still in the Channel, weather-
bound, and expressing his fears that the Expedition would either
have started from Cape Town before its arrival, or have been
put off for another year. Under such circumstances he would
withdraw the donation for the present.• However, as Maclear
puts it, since the conditions of the first letter had been fulfilled,
the second did not apply, and in fact the Association did even-
tually receive the money from McQueen. •
Just before the departure of the Expedition, a letter con-
taining explicit instructions as to what it was expected to
accomplish was sent by the Management Committee of the
Association" To Dr. Andrew Smith (or the) Director (for the
time being) of the Expedition into Central Africa." This
document was printed and issued with the Cap. of GooJ Hop.
lit1rar.J Gaz.ett1 in July, 1834.'
The letter be~ with a preamble in which the confidence of
the Committee in Smith's zeal, talents and experience was ex-
pressed, together with its desire that, in case of emergency,
he should not consider himself bound by any of its decisions ;
1 Maclear, lcttcr of 4th July, 1834. See also The Cajllof GooJ Ho}ll Lillrllt;J
G~1111, Cape Town, July, 1834, Vol. iv, No. vii, Notes of the Month•
• Maclear, letter m 4th July, 1834-
• Smith, A., lllllltraliotU of lhl Zoology of S0111b Afrita, London, 1849,
Val. i, Preface, p. ill.
• lnsfrllllions /or lhl Expttlilioll inlO Cmtra/ Afri111 fro111 lhl Ca}ll of GooJ
HojJI, cu:., issued with Tb1 Ca}ll of Good HojJI lilwary G~Jlll, Cape Town,
Jufy, 1854, Vol iv, No. vii. It waa reprinted in Steedman, A., Wlllllkritlgs
""4 AitiMhlm ;,, lhl l•t""1r of SOldbmi Aft*-, Loodon, 18n1 Vol. fl, pp.
148-161.
 INTRODUCTION

and that, should the Expedition prove a success, it should be

the first of a series of efforts prosecuted by the same means, and
deriving their support from the same sources.
Inquiries had led the Committee to anticipate that the natives
in the interior were generally well disposed towards visitors,
but, lest they should be tempted by the opportunity to seize
anything belonging to the Expedition, that might attract them,
the Committee considered it "requisite that such an apparent
preparation to repel assaults should be preserved as may render
it obviously perilous to the assailants.'" It was further considered
advisable that the members should avoid all collision with the
natives, and on no account " force its way through the territory
of any tribe disposed to resist it."'
The Committee was of opinion that, in regard to the territory
which the Expedition should visit, there were two courses open.
It might sweep rapidly over a great length of country, with the
object of attaining the most distant point which the time
allotted to it or the duration of its resources might enable it
to reach ; or it might leisurely examine in detail, throughout
its length and breadth, the condition, capabilities and pro-
ductions of a district of more manageable dimensions. While
the former might be the more interesting mode of proceeding,
on account of the greater probability of romantic peril, adventure
or discovery, the latter was in all respects more accordant with
the views and interests of the subscribers, as expressed in the
prospectus. The Committee therefore recommended that no
endeavour should be made to penetrate beyond the parallel of
zo 0 South latitude, and that the attempt to reach that parallel
be made only if, in the first place, circumstances favoured it
greatly, and secondly, if the intervening districts should not
afford objects of sufficient interest and importance to occupy
the attention of the Expedition. Finally, the Committee anti-
cipated that the regions between the Cape territory and the
southern tropic would have sufficient extent and variety for
the time and resources of this particular undertaking.
It was suggested that the Expedition should take either Klaar-
water (Griquatown) or Litakou (Kuruman) as the base of opera-
tions, and should examine the district from which the northern
branches of the Garcep and those streams which flowed towards
the Indian Ocean issued. The Committee recommended that
 INTRODUCTION

the eastern side should be first examined, in case the great

desert of Challahenga 1 should extend so far to the eastward
as to bar the progress of the Expedition towards the centre
of the continent ; there would then remain the western areas
to be explored.
Great stress was laid upon the necessity for the accurate rc-
cordins of the route, of astronomical observations, of longitude
and latitude and of elevation above sea-level, and the Committee
especially recommended that all such observations " should be
registered in a book devoted to that/urpose, and preserved in
the exact terms of the readings o of the instruments and
chronometers, and kept rigorously separate in its statement
from any calculation thereon grounded." Unfortunately I have
not been able to trace this book. The Committee particu-
larly desired that the Expedition should determine correctly
the precise positions of important places such as Griquatown,
Lattakoo, Kurrechane and Meletta; a study of early maps, such
as those of Campbell, will show why the Committee was so
anxious that this should be done. Extremely detailed instruc-
tions were also given as to the keeping of diaries, of making
astronomical observations, of the use of the various scientific
instruments, of the care of the chronometers and of the best
methods of surveying the country. The party was further asked
to observe and record the climate at all important points, as
well as to make a minute and extended examination of the
geological structure of the country, and to secure specimens
of fossils, rocks and ores. Likewise the vegetation was to be
noted, and other branches of natural history were not to be
neglected.
In particular it was desired that exact information should be
obtained respecting the life of the native peoples ; their condi-
tion, arts, policy, language. external appearance, origin and
relation to other tribes, their religious traditions or practices,
their traditions, songs and amusements, and their knowledge
of nature.
Inquiries should also be made respecting commerce and the
prospect of its extension, and every means should be used to
ascertain the existing demand for foreign commodities, and the
return to be expected from them.
1 Kalaharl.
 INTRODUCTION 39
Finally, the Expedition should make an attempt to solve
the riddle of the fate of several previous expeditions, notably
those of Cowan and Donovan (1808) and Martin (1831).
These instructions Smith carried out almost to the letter,
and this fact alone should be sufficient answer to those critics
who found fault with him for not achieving those spcctaculu
results which he had been expressly advised not to attempt.
Before he left Cape Town, Smith received a letter from Sir
Benjamin D'Urban's secrctary,1 instructing him to do all in his
power to obtain the goodwill of the principal chiefs, inviting
him to enter into negotiations with them on behalf of the
Government, and giving him a number of presents which he
might distribute to deserving chiefs. These presents consisted
of twelve ornamented cloaks, twelve medalS with chains and
twelve large looking glasses. With a few exceptions, details
of the distribution of these presents arc not given in the Diary.
According to Thcal, • Smith gave medals to the chiefs Moshcsh,
Sikonyela, Moroko, Lcpui, Peter Davids, Carolus Baatjic and
Gert Taaibosch, which they regarded as " assurances that the
colonial govcmmcnt recognised them as the rightful rulcta of
their respective communities." In order to make a distinction
between the more and less powerful chiefs, Dr. Smith presented
to Moshesb, Sikonycla and Moroko each an ornamented cloak.
To Mzilikazi, however, he gave a medal, two mirron and two
cloaks.
IV. Thi D1par111r1 of the Expedition.

As I have said, the heavy stores were shipped to Algoa Bay

on a6th June, to be conveyed thence by waggons to Graaff-
Rcinct, where the entire party was expected to assemble on ljth
July.
The main portion of the overland section of the Expedition,.
including Mr. Ford and Corporal McKenzie of the 7.t.nd
Regiment, started from Cape Town on 7th June, leaving Dr.

' Found by me looecly iruertcd in the autograph of the Diary, and now
bound up with it.
I Thell, G. M., Hls"".1 •I SOlllb .AfrU- (1854-18$4). London, 1l9J.
Vol. iv, P• 10,.
 INTRODUC'I'ION

Smith, Captain Edie, Mr. Burrows and Mr. Charles Bell to

follow later.1
But before the last section of the party left " a sumptuous
banquet was given by Mr. von Ludwig, in honour of Dr.
Smith, to a numerous company of the members of the South
African Institution and Subscribers to the Central Expedition_"
among the guests being representatives of" The Supreme Court
of the Colony, the Members of Council, the Church, the &my,
the Navy, the Medical Profession, the South African College
and the Royal Observatory," and" A Highland Piper and the
Band of the 98th Regiment enlivened this distinguished
Festival."•
On Wednesday morning, znd July, Dr. Smith took up his
quarters at the Observatory, where, on the following morning,
Maclcar entertained the party to breakfast with Sir John and
Lady Herschd, Baron Ludwig, Captain Graham, Captain Garnet
and Mr. Malcolm, son of Sir Charles Malcolm.• The last three
intended to escort the Expedition as far as Lattakoo, Graham
and Garnet being visitors from India.'
Immediately after breakfast the instruments were secured in
the travelling waggons and the party, consisting of Dr. Smith,
Captain Edie, Mr. Burrows, Mr. Bell and the three gentlemen
just mentioned, set out, attended for some distance across the
Cape Flats by Sir John Herschel, Baron von Ludwig, Mr. McLean
and Mr. Meadows, R.N., and a number of soldiers who, when
the actual parting took place, fired a salute and gave three hearty
cheers.•
I have been unable to determine the precise dates on which the
three portions of the Expedition arrived at Graaff-Reinet, but
the German missionaries, who had started from Beaufort West,
reached the appointed rendezvous on z7th July.•
l Maclcar, letter of 4th July, 183+
• Thi CajM of Good Hojll Lillrary Goz.1111, Cape Town, July. 183., Vol. lv,
No. vii, Notes of the Month.
• Maclcar, letter of 4th July, 1854.
' Ibid., and Gaz.et11 entry as above.
• Thi Cap. of Good Hop. literary Gaz.1111. Cape Town, July, 1154, Vol. iv,
No. vii, Notes of the Month. See also Tb1 So11tb Afrit1111 C°""1urtitll Atl-
Plf'liser for Saturday. 'th July. 1834, where the salute is eaid to have been
one of ZJ muskets.
• Btrlill Missions Btrkhl, Berlin, 183,, p. 19.
 INTRODUCTION

We have seen that the date of assembly at Graaff-Rcinct had

been fixed for 1,th July. Owing, however, to the extra-
ordinary drought which had lately prevailed, transport be-
tween Port Elizabeth and Graaff-Rcinet could not be obtained
for the goods that had been shipped from Cape Town, even at
double the usual rates. Smith accordingly consulted Bain and
other residents of Graaff-Rcinct, and arrangements were made
for waggons to be sent from that town to the port. In the
midst of these arrangements news suddenly arrived to the effect
that waggons bad been secured at Port Elizabeth after many
difficulties, and that they might be expected in a week or ten days,
but that none of the proprietors could be induced to receive full
loads, fearing that the oxen would not be able ro reach their
destination. This involved the Expedition in great expense,
at least twice what had been anticipated.
Having overcome this initial difficulty, Smith next attempted
to procure the necessary Hottentots, but found these people
most unwilling to be attached to the Expedition. Eventually
Bain induced a few to join, and these in their turn persuaded
others, until at last the company was complete.1
On jth August a supper, held at the house of Rev. Andrew
Murray, was attended oy twenty-eight persons, consisting of
the members of the Expedition and prominent local residents,
for interest in the project was running high in Graaff-Reinct. •
So much was this the case that several individuals were added
to the party, most of whom, however, had no intention of re-
maining attached to the Expedition for long.
The missionary group now included, in addition to Gebel
and Kraut, Schmidt and Richard Miles, the latter belonging to
the London Missionary Society.• Andrew Geddes Bain, the
trader-traveller, had also attached himself to the party, and other
less well-known names, which occur from time to time in the
Diary, show that the numbers of the Expedition had materially
increased.
A start was made from Graaff-Rcinct on uth August, but
owing to the delay caused by the drunkenness of some of the
1
1
lllporl of JIN Expediti,,,, etc., Cape Town, 18,61 pp. s·+
Birlitl MissiDfu Blrlthl, Berlin, 1857, pp. ao-11.
I J#Jlj,, p. IJ,
 INTRODUCTION

Hottentots little progress was made on that day. But the tut-
bulcnt spirits were soon quelled, and the Expedition moved
forward surely and steadily.
The mode of life enjoyed by the travellers has been well
described by Bain, who was, as I have said, a temporary member
of the party. He wrote : 1
" Dr. Smith is the most indefatigable man I ever met with ;
nothing comes amiss with him ; be secs everything done him-
self, and trusts nothing to others. He seemed sometimes to be
ubiquitous, and seldom went to bed before one or two o'clock
in the morning. He is, I think, in every respect the very man to
lead such an Expedition; Captain Edie would have a good deal
to do to drill all the party, and teach them their various military
evolutions. Kift is a most useful fellow, and a great favourite
of the Doctor. The graphic and Cruickshanldan labours of Mr.
Bell, with the delicate and minute products of Mr. Ford's pencil,
were the subject of daily admiration to us all. The astronomer,
by which familiar appellation that promising young gentleman,
Mr. Burrow, was known, had no sinecure situation. He will,
I think, be a bright fellow.
" The men also, in more subordinate grades, arc an orderly,
well-behaved set of people, and some of them very clever and
well-educated. Indeed, nothing can surpass the good order and
harmony that prevails throughout the whole party; and if they
do not succeed in all their undertakings, I do not think it will
be the blame of any one composing the Expedition.
" Their manner of living was also exceedingly simple :
•Nae kk/esha'flls, or p1111Ji11s, or tarts, 'tllert seen there I' but at
ten o'clock, when the bell rung for breakfast, we entered the
tent, each armed with bis knife and fork, where we found the
table (I beg pardon, the mat I mean) spread on the fioor, on
which was placed a hearty meal of beef or mutton, or what game
the day produced, cooked in the plainest manner; which,
with bread or rice, and a tin pint of tea, baled out of a camp
kettle, formed the homely but substantial repast. Around the

1 Steedman. A., WtwUrings tWi AWmbins;,, 1/JI /1111rior of SOldbml .Afrko,

Loodoa, dJj, Vol. ii, pp. 22s-zSJ, reprinted from Tbt Cajll of Goo4 Hojll
Ut""" ~111, Cape Town, PebruarY, t83j, pp. 19-13. Bain'• actual letter
Wiii sent to J. C. Chue, and wu datecl Gnalf-Reinet. 18th Docembet-, 11,.,
 INTRODUCTION 43
inside of the tent we all squatted in the true oriental sty:c, and
every one ate with an excellent appetite. At sunset we had a
repetition of the same fare, and sometimes (let not the Tem-
perance Society startle) when there was nothing particular
doing, we indulged in a cup of punch, and songs and glees
frequently concluded the labours of the day.
" Every Sabbath, during the time that the German mission-
aries resided with us, divine service was held twice a day."
At Colesberg the German missionaries met Pelissier, of the
French mission at Verhuil, who told them that the missionaries
Moffat, Hamilton, and Rolland had visited Mzilikazi in May,
and that nothing had been heard of the result of their visit ;
but that Rolland and his collea~ue Lcmue were still at Motito,
where they had little to do owtn.g to the paucity of natives in
that district, and they awaited an opportunity to settle in
Moselekatse's tcrritory.1
But when the Expedition reached Philippolis the German
missionaries heard that Moffat, Hamilton and Rolland had
returned safely from Mzilikazi, but had failed to obtain his
permission to found a mission station near him, owing to the
unsettled state of the country. They concluded that Dr. Smith
and his party would, if they proceeded to Mzilikazi, be forced
to fight, and they considered it " unbecoming to proceed in
the face of such obvious dangers, and to take our messages of
peace to such an atmosphere so different in feeling." They
considered, moreover, that their original object was far from
being realised and that all the conditions had been changed
though they still wished to visit Lattakoo and take the advice
of Moffat as to what they had better do. The ultimate result
was that they parted from the Exfedition. • Smith's point of
view is given in the Diary, and it will be seen that it by no means
coincided with that of the missionaries.
Bain also left the Expedition at Philippolis, after remaining
there with it for about a fortnight. Smith had decided to explore
the sources of the Caledon River, a project which held no
interest for Bain, who wished to proceed north at once to
hunt giraffe and rhinoceros.• He accordingly set out, in
1 BIT/i# Miuimu Blri&bl, Berlin, IBJS, p. :i.6,
I 1WJ., P· 51.
I SteedJiwi, A., op, d/,1 Vol, ii, pp. U9"2.J0o
 INTRODUCTION

the direction of Lattakoo, together with Messrs. Malcolm

and Cotton, the ' Indian gentlemen ' who accompanied the
Expedition (c.aptain Graham and Garnet) and Mr. Grant of
the 98th Rcgiment. 1 The German missionaries, in spite of their
protestations that they wished to meet Moffat, did not travel
with him. At c.ampbcll (Griquatown) Bain parted with the
' Indian gentlemen,' and alone except for his servants proceeded
via Boctsap and Taungs towards Mzilikaz.i's territory. The
remainder of his experiences arc fully described in his journal,
and give a clear idea of the dangers that beset the South African
traveller in those days. He tells how his Griqua servants,
without his knowledge, stole some cattle belonging to Mzili-
kazi ; how the Matabclc, after seizing all his equipment, pursued
him, causing him to fly for his life, without food or water ;
how he was succoured by the trader Gibson, and finally arrived,
exhausted, at the French Missionary Station of Motito, where
Prosper Lcmuc lent him his own waggon to take him back to
Kuruman. • From c.ampbell, Bain wrote " a few hurried lines
to Dr. Smith, informing him of the danger of at present pene-
trating to the northward of the Molopo, except he goes by
the coast of Natal, as the Kaliharry Desert will prevent his
approach to the westward."• He further suggested that the
Association should approach the Government in order that
" a small embassy under a skilful officer " should visit Mzilikaz.i
and demand restitution on his behalf, as well as to ensure the
safety of the Expedition ; and that the Expedition should
acquire more horses, not only in case of a misfortune such as
that which he had experienced, but also to enable the party to
procure a regular supply of game.' From this point Bain is no
longer in touch with the Expedition.

V. 011 Tnl=.
Smith's fust report was despatched to Maclear frotn the
Calcdon River on z3rd September, 1834, and it was transmitted
by him to Sir Benjamin D'Urban, who forwarded it to the
l Ibid., p. 227•.
I Jollnllll Ml Missions E11tJ118llifl'IJ, Pads, 18~5, Dixi~mc annec, pp. 270-
27a, where thctc ia a very graphic account of Bain's arrival at Motito.
• Steedman, A., op. di., Vol. ii, p. 252.
' lMJ., P· ''3·
 INTRODUCTION

Rt. Hon. P. Spring Rice; M.P., Secretary of State, together

with copies of the Ab1trael of Promtli11g1 and the I1111n1ttio11.1 for
thl Exptlition in a letter dated 31st October, 1834.
In this report Smith wrote to Maclear " I cannot permit the
present opportunity to pass without proving to you that I
am yet alive. I have had since leaving you to encounter many
annoyances, but now the pleasures are coming. We start
tomorrow from this and expect nothing but the height of
excitement for the next three months. Our route will be up the
northern branch of the Orange River, then to the sources of the
Massouta, and lastly down the Vaal River to the vicinity of
Lattakoo . • • I am afraid from all I hear that I will not be able
to visit Masalacatsee. He and the Corannas are engaged in war
and the latter profess a determination to destroy or be destroyed.
I care little which way the day goes, provided it be soon settled
-both parties are equally deserving of death." 1
His second report was sent off from Philippolis on z3rd
December, 1834. Chase printed it in the Gazette. The drowning
of Corporal McKemie had been followed by an accident to
Captain Edie who was shot through the hand, and who con-
sequently remained behind at Philippolis, taking charge of the
imposing collection of objects that had been gathered together
in the short space of a little more than four months. These in-.
eluded 491 birds, ,9 quadrupeds, 188 reptiles, z.u geological
specimens, 12.J native curios and 131 drawings.•
From Philippolis the Expedition worked its way across
country to New Lattakoo, or Kuruman, where the party were
wdcomed by the Moffa.ts, and from where Smith again reported
to Cape Town, stating that everything was going on well, and
that the Expedition was in communication with, and preparing
to visit, Mzilikazi. He spoke highly of the London Missionary
Society's station at New Lattakoo, observing that under Moffat's

1 .Archives, Cape Town, C.O. 1447 (Despatch Book, 18n-1838). MiscclL

No. 68 (p. n). The quotation will be found in a letter sent by Thomas
Maclcar to Captain Beaufort, on sth Nov., 1834. This letter is in the Archives
of the Royal Obscrvatoty, Cape. The Repott itself is in the Public Record
Offic.c. London.
1
TIJI Coj>I of Gootl Hop. Lildl'""Y ~1111, Cape Town, Januuy, tSJ,,
VoL v., No. I, pp. 1,...1+
 INTllODUCTION

guidance " religion and civilisation go hand in hand with rapid

stridcs." 1
But it is in the pages of Moffat that we can fully realise
what the advent of the Expedition meant to Moffat and his wife,
for in his Diary Smith docs not breathe a word of what happened.
As Moffat puts it: "In January, 1831, Dr. Andrew Smith, at
the head of an expedition to explore the interior, sent by an
association in Cape Town, arrived at the Kuruman. To myself,
as well as my wife, this was a dispensation of mercy, ordered by
that gracious Providence, without whom a sparrow cannot
fall to the ground. Domestic aflliction having compelled Mr.
Edwards to visit the Colony, in addition to the increase of labour
which necessarily devolved on me during his absence, I had been
induced to apply to translation and printing more closely than
my strength would allow, in the hottest season of the year,
during which much rain had fallen. Dr. S. found me suffering
from a severe attack of intermittent fever, but by the Divine
blessing on his medical skill, I was soon restored. While the
Expedition was surveying the borders of the Kalagare desert,
prior to their visit to Moselekatse's dominions, Mrs. M. was,
after the birth of a son, suddenly taken ill, and brought to the
very gates of death. The doctor, when informed of this, im·
mediately hastened to render all the relief in his power. His
tender symea:thy, and unremitting attention in that trying season,
during which all hope of her recovery more than once had
fled, can never be erased from our grateful recollection, for in
the midst of his active and laborious engagements at the head
of the Expedition, he watched for several successive nights with
fraternal sympathy, what appeared to be the dying pillow of
my beloved partner, nor did he leave before she was out of dan-
ger. While we devoutly acknowledge His hand, who healeth
all our diseases, we cannot but record how much we owe to
this intelligent and enterprising traveller, for the untiring
assiduity with which he exercised his professional skill.
The kuatsi disease was also prevailing on the station at the
time, and Dr. S. greatly endeared himself to our people in general
by his benevolent exertions among them. These Clrcumstances,
as well as a disease among his oxen, arising from the luxuriance
1 Tb1 C•J>t of Gooi Hopt LiHl'fll'Y ~1111, Cape ToWD, June, 1835, Vol. T
No. 6. p. 95·
 INTRODUCTION

oE the grass, detained him longer than he intended at the

Kuruman, but by his persevering diligence, it added mater.ially
to the objects of the Expedition, by enriching his collection of
specimens. A regular correspondence had been kept up be-
tween our station and Moselekatse, who had never in one in-
stance wavered in the confidence he placed in me since my
former visit. Messengers who had now been sent to him, having
returned with a Matabele for the purpose of inviting the Ex-
pedition to proceed, the Doctor thought my presence might
facilitate his object, and was anxious for me to accompany
him. Mrs. M., on the day of our departure, was just able to
rise from her bed to bid us farewdl, with the _J>rospcct of our
being absent at least three months. A short time before this,
Mr. and Mrs. Edwards had returned from the Colony with their
family in improved health. " 1
Moffat's own son tells us that to his parents it " was a special
subject of thankfulness that at such a time there should have
been on the spot a medical man of Dr. Andrew Smith's skill;
and that, too; exercised with such tender care and assiduity as
might have been looked for in a dear brother rather than in a
comparative stranger. It was the beginning of a life-long
friendship, for the Moffats could never forget the man who had
come to them like an angd out of heaven in their time of
trouble."•
But these unexpected events had delayed the Expedition
considerably, and Smith wished to get farther into the interior.
He therefore prevailed upon Moffat to accompany him as fu
as Mzilikazi's headquarters. Moffat was only too willing to
held the man who had done so much for his wife and himself,
an he also had other good reasons for wishin~ to visit the
Matabcle territory again, for he needed heavy timber for the
roof of his new Church, and he was certain that he could ob-
tain it there. Accordingly he set out with the Expedition, al-
though his wife had barely recovered. Moffat remained with
Mzilikazi during the time that Dr. Smith and his party explored
the Marico and Limpopo Rivers and the Magaliesberg range, and
1 Mofl'at, R., Mu1;..y Laboltr1 111111 SmtU ;,, So111hmr Ajrk4, London,
1142, pp. n6-n•.
• MOB'at, J. S., Tiii LWu of &blrl 111111 M., Mojf111, London, 1187, pp.
114-11,.
E
 INTllODUCTION

during the period of his absence he wrote .. a copious journal

giving a Dl11lutc account of each day's l'roceedings " 1 for the
benefit ol his wife who was eagerly awaittng news at Kuruman.
I have so far been unable to trace this journal ; it is not in the
archives of the London Missionary Society where much of
Moffat's correspondence is preserved. Several pages of extracts
have. however, been quoted by Moffat's son, and some of these
throw further light upon the life of the Expedition.
" I continue to admire Dr. Smith more than ever. He sets
an excellent cumplc to his men and is not only willing but
anxious for their instruction in the things of God. All the Eng·
lish, ifl except Dr. Smith and one or two more, swear, and some
do it to no ordinary degree, but they arc all cunning enough
to take care that I never hear them. I am glad, however, to be
informed this evening by Messrs. Hume and Scoon, that they
have just written out an agreement that for every oath the
swearer pays a fine of half a stick of tobacco. Tennant is to
be the treasurer. I am quite rejoiced to hear this, and pray that
the plan may succeed; and it is very likely, as all have put their
names to it and tobacco is precious.
The sentry walks for two hours, and six arc appointed for
each night. Dicky had the first watch to-night, from eight to
ten, and the second watch has just commenced. Every ten
minutes or a quarter of an hour the sentry shouts that all is
well. I hope it will be the same song till we return • • • "•
•• I think I mentioned in' my last that the English swcarcn
had unanimously agreed to pay a half-stick of tobacco for
every oath. It was on a Sabbath, and when the characters arc
considered one will forgive such a contract on such a day.
Next day's produce was seventeen and a half sticks, equal to
thirty-five oaths. The most notorious lost only one and a half
sticks. The number of fines decrease so rapidly that the treasurer
is out of employ, except keeping what he has got. I comfort
them by saying that they will have all the fewer oaths to account
for in the day of judgment ••• " 1
" No messengers have yet arrived from Mosclckatsc. In
the afternoon the doctor seemed a little anxious, and of course
l IWJ., p. t8j.
• Jbitl., p. 188.
I 1W/,, p, 189,
 INTllODUCTION

contectUres followed. Towards evening the waggons were

removed from the form of a crescent to that of a waggon
fortification, with all the oxen on one side enclosed with a fence.
When the plan was proposed I gave my plain unvarnished
refusal. Hume and Scoon were also much opposed, particularly
on account of the oxen, which were comparatively exposed to
the lion, as the fence would prove a mere shadow if they were
once frightened by him. The excuse the doctor made to
Monaheng was that he feared for the men's lives, and he stated
at the same time to me that he was bound down to take every
precaution for the safety of his people. Of course we sub-
mitted, but not cheerfully."1
At Mosega Dr. Smith again placed his waggons in the fc rm
of a square against Moffat's advice and also proposed to make
a krul for his oxen. Moffat argued that they could use a near-
by cattle kraal belonging to the Matabelc, where he intended to
aend his own oxen; after a good deal of persuasion Smith agreed
to this course. Moffat believed that by trusting the animals to
the natives and by " placing almost unbounded confidence in
their friendship " they would banish their evil intentions, which,
however, he did not believe they had. Moreover, in the letter
which Moffat sent from Mosega we acquire a new piece of in-
formation; there were twelve waggons in the caravan.• The
five new waggons were those of the missionary and the traders.
From various informants Smith had received descriptions of a
great inland sea, on which the natives sailed in boats, and he was
very anxious to visit it. But from the fact that no two of his
informants agreed as to the distance he inferred that it must
be still very far off. This, together with the fact that his oxen
were very much reduced in condition, from the want of sufficient
food, caused him to abandon the project, and left the discovery
of Lake Ngami to the later Livingstone.
However, he had undertaken to reach the Tropic of Capricorn,
and he carried out his instructions, reaching a point where
from the top of a lofty tree he could sec in the distance the
Bakaa Mountains in the Bamangwato country near Serowc.
Rcturnin~ from the Tropic he once more visited Mzilibzi,
and on leaV10g him was accompanied by his principal counsellor,
a 111iJ., P· 189.
• nu.• PP· 190-1 91.
jO INTRODUCTION

Umnombate, and several attendants, who had been deputed

by the Matabcle chief to go with Smith to Cape Town to meet
the Governor, and to establish friendly relations between them.
The return journey to the Cape was accomplished without serious
delays, and but little occurred worthy of notice except that Smith
visited Waterbocr at Griquatown, and obtained a good deal
of information and assistance from him.
VI. Return of thl Expitliti011.
A general meeting of the members of the Association was
held on I?th March, 18'6 "immediately after the return of
the Expedition,. to Cape Town,1 when Smith read a Report on
what bad been accomplished from the period of its departure
from Graaff-Rcinet to its return to Cape Town. Following upon
this a dozen resolutions were moved and carried unanimously,
chief among which were that the substance of the Report
should be made public ; that the Association should not be
dissolved, but " should continue to exist as a permanent In-
stitution for the further prosecution of its original object " ;
that the rarer parts of the Collections should not be sold until
they bad been adequately examined ; that a new Committee
of Ma~gement should supersede the old one and should, at
the appropriate time, dispose of the Collections ; and that
" the only adequate thanks which can be rendered to Dr. Smith,
are that he be requested to undertake the next Expedition." •
The remainder of the story is best told in the words of Sir
Benjamin D'Urban contained in a despatch sent by him to
Lord Glenelg on 2,rd April, 18,6.
"My Lord,
By a reference to my Despatch to the Secretary of State,
No. 68, of the 'rst October, I8H, your Lordship will be re-
minded of an Expedition which had then set out under the
direction of Dr. Smith for purposes of Scientific discovery in
the portion of Central Africa, beyond the Orange River.
. " This Expedition returned in safety in the end of January
last, and its proceedings and researches are to be published.
1
1
Rlpqrl of ti;, Expdill4n, etc., Cape Town, 1856, p.
1#11., PP• 6s-67.
6,.
 INTRODUCTION

•• Anlling myself of it, in pursuance of the Policy adverted to

in my Scpllrate and private Despatch of the 2.Bth October, 1834,
of cultivating a good understanding and establishing a con-
sequent influence among the surrounding Native tribes-I
had requested Dr. Smith's assistance, and entrusted to his
discretion messages to such Chiefs of Tribes, as he might
judge it expedient to deliver them to, with presents to be also
clisttibuted to them-these being necessary to all African
communi~tions.
" Dr. Smith fulfilled this trust with great judgment and ability
as bricfty set forth in his note here enclosed • . • .
"Dr. Smith had been requested by Umsili~ to take under
his .Protection and bring with him to me, his principal Counsellor,
which he accordingly did, with his Attendants, . • and having
caused him to be well taken care of and entertained to his satis-
faction for a month, and entered into a Treaty or Agreement
with him, in the name of his Chief, I sent him home with a safe
conduct to his country, with appropriate presents for both.
.. From this Treaty and the other communications made
by Dr. Smith, I anticipate very beneficial results to the peace
and good order of the country without our Northern Border
and consequently of that Border itself. "1
A Efcliminary report of the Expedition was published for
the subscribers to the Association 1n 1836. In this document
Smith gaTe a succinct account of the progress of the Expedition
throughout its travels, occuJ>ying thirty-three pages,' which
concludes with a summary of the principal rcswts achieved.
cc 1st. It has J.>Ut us in possession of much information re-
specting many tribes even hitherto unknown to us by name,
and has enabled us also to extend very considerably our know-
ledge of those which had previously been visited; by having
brought us in immediate connection either with them, or with
persons who could furnish information regarding them. With
members of the following tribes-Ba.rhootoo, Baklolewa, LihoJd1
Batlapi, B"'along, BakalalkUi, lJdharoo~i, Abahl Zooloo, or
Matibili, .Alll11pi111pi, A111angt11111, A111ablobi, BlllJllllina, Ballll,
Ba111llllgwato, X.J Koltbi'l""• K.J Kord, Ar11111init1, BarOd, Bahool:lli11g,
I .Atchiftl, C'.lpc Town,, c.o., 1447 (Despatch Book, 18n-1l51), N~
Td'-t No. .1,, (p. 178). ·
j2 INTAODUCnoN

Criqau, BaJf.1111", &hojJootJ11, Bagtloofoo, &poo, B11pooho,

&•11/ili, and Bt1JWJ1Jhl, we have actually communicated. and in
regard to the MatomjM, MaleAJul, Baham1KhooJ11, BapoolO()•a,
Bopiri, Bahapoolall, Matsi/Un, Bapootth1111r1, Ba/NJ/;oli, Bd/1111,
Bo111a/Mlcla, BofllOOritoil, Balalr.JJ, Bolt1"fll0., Baktzlalr.4, MOJlll'la,
aod others, we have obtained indirect information.
andly. It has enabled us to ascertain the Geographical poli-
tion of many places previously doubtful ; to lay down the sources
and courses of vanous rivers which run to the eastward, and
otherwise obtain what will considerably add to the utility ol
our Ma~ of South Africa.
,rdly. It bas enabled us to extend considerably our knowledge
of natutal history, not only by the discovery ~ many new
and interesting forms in the animal kingdom. but also by
additional information in regard to several previously known :
and has put us in possession of a splendid collection, which,
ii disposed of, will in all probability realize a sum more than
equal to the expenses which have been incurred.
4thly. It bas enabled us to ascertain that the Hottentot race
is much more extended than has been hitherto believed. and that
parties or communities belonging to it inhabit the interior as
far, at least, as the inland lake, which we were told is not leas
than three weeks' journey north of the Tropic of Capricorn.
'thly. It has made us aware of the existence of an infinity
of misery in the interior, with which WC were ercviously Wl-
acquaintcd, a circumstance which in all probability, will lead
eventually to the benefit of thousands, who, without some such
opportunity of making known their sufferings, might have lived
and died even without commiseration.
6thly. It bas enabled us to establish a good understanding
with Umsiligas, and ensure bis services and support in the
further attempts which may be made to extend our knowledge
of South Mnca, which, without his concurrence, could never
be well effected from the Cape of Good Hope ; and
Lastly. It has furnished a proof that the plan uF.n which the
Association proceeded was calculated to accomplish the objecta
it had in view, and has given reason to believe that a party,
similarly equipped, when assisted with the knowledge we now
possess, may, with proper regard to the seasons. penetrate &.t
 INTRODUCTION

beyond the latitude of z.3.&8 (our southern limit), and with a

termination equally fortunate as that of the late undertaking. " 1
This account is followed by a long appendix dealing with the
zoological, botanical and mineralogicaI work done by the
Expedition, the possibilities of trade in the interior, and an
imposing " List of Articles delivered over to the Association
on the return of the Expedition Party." This last deserves to
be reprinted in full, and I hope to do so, together with a complete
catalogue of all the topograehical and ethnological drawings
that I have been able to trace, in the second volume of this Diary,
since it seems to me quite possible that some of them may still
be identifiable, even at this late date.
The vast collection of natural history and ethnological speci-
mens was sent to England and exhibited in the Egyptian Hall,
London, where it attracted much attention, and, when sold.
realised a large sum. As we have seen, Smith himself was re-
called to England in I8J7, and he took with him his Diaries,
fully intending to publish an illustrated account of his Travels.
The following advertisements appeared in the So11th Afri&1111
Co•111mial Alltlwtisw on Wednesday, 16th May, 1838, and
also on Saturday, 19th May.
NEW Wons ON APluCA.
Pre~g for Publication, in a Volumes, Demy 8vo. The
Journal of an Expedition into the Interior of Southern Africa
fitted out, in I8J4t by" The Cape of Good Hope Association
for Exploring Central Africa/ Comprising an Authentic
Narrative of the Travels and Discoveries of the Expedition ;
and Accounts of the Manners and Customs of the Native Tribes ;
and of the Natural Productions, Aspect, and Physical Capabilities
of the Country. Illustrated by a Map and numerous Plates of
African Scenery, and of the Dresses, Weapons, Dances, Reli-
gious Ceremonies, &c., of the Natives. By Andrew Smith.
M.D., Surgeon of the Forces, and Director of the Expedition.
By the same Author.
To be published under the authority of the Government ;
IDustrations of the Zoology of South Africa ••• and it is expected
that the first part will be ready for publication in March next.
I IUJ-1 of llM ExJ»tliliM, etc., Cape Town. 11,6, pP· ,.-,,.
 INTRODUCTION

Smith, Elder, and Co., 6, Cornhill: Orders for the above

works will be received at the Public Library...
The /l/11slralions of the Zoolog) of Sotdh Afrka were duly pub-
lished, but the Io"""'1 never appeared. That Smith actually
intended to publish it eventwilly is shown not only by the
existence of the draft but by a remark made by Robert Mo:ffat
in 184.i ; i but his many interests, together with the responsibilities
of the high position in which he found himself later, and also
his subsequent ill-health, made it impossible for him to do so,
and also prevented the completion of a much larger work
which he bad in hand, an attempt at a complete ethnological
survey of the whole of Africa.

VII. Thi Diary.

The Diary of the Expedition was written by Smith on foolscap
paper in four sections, the first consisting of 19.i pages, the
second of 48 pages, the third of 44 pages and the fourth of
77 pages. Total, 361 pages.
There are appended to the Diary 7 pages of odd notes on
various Tswana and Korana customs, and one otherwise blank
page, which is headed" Lake," evidently intended for a further
description of Lake Ngami, of which several occur throughout
the text. This opens with the words "A fine country with great
number of cattle," the remainder being a blank.
Bound up with the Diary is a second one, also in Smith's
band, concerned with the geology and the detailed topography of
the journey. It consists of 114 foolscap pages, and is illustrated
by three dozen drawings in the text. It has been useful in
constructing the map, but has not been included in this publi-
cation.
The Diary contains information of all kinds, and yet it is
far from complete; Smith evidently kept other notes as well.
One notebook which has survived contains classified inforrna-
tion regarding many of the tribes which he met ; this I hope
to deal with later on, especially as there exist over one hundred
drawings showin$ native life in many and various aspects,
all but a few havtng hitherto remained unpublished.
Aft'ka, I..oadml.
1 l4a,
. ' .
' Molfat, ll., MissioMry Lilbow1 - ' S"'1U ill Sot11,,_
p. '86, footnote.
.
 INTRODUCnoN

Further, there is also a sin$le quarto sheet of paper which

on one side contains the meridian altitudes for six places visited,
though apparently not by the whole Expedition, from Jrd
August (Thursday), IBH to 1st September (Friday), IBJS.
Apparently Smith kept these observations and, possibly, those
of latitude and longitude, separate from the Diary proper ;
up to the present, however, I have not discovered them.•
In transcribing the Diary I was faced with a number of
problems.
The 6rst of these concerned the dating of the entries. M
a rule Smith entered the days thus : 12 August (Tuesday),
but occasionally he omitted the day of the week. I have there-
fore filled in his omissions, and have also corrected occasional
errors, the latter being explained in the footnotes.
The second problem concerned the paragraphing. Smith's
entries are conttnuous ; he did not attempt to J.>llragraph them.
I have therefore, as a rule, broken them up into paragraphs
where he changes the subject, since he frequently interpolates
a description of a bird or other animal while describing the
customs of a tribe. In addition, I have broken up into paragraphs
some of the long descriptions of native history or customs which
are contained in some of the entries, notably those made at
Kuruman.
The third problem was that of the numerous ornith~~
entries : I have contented myself with checking up the s · g
of the various generic and specific names. But these entries are
important since they indicate the exact localities in which
Smith observed many of the birds described in his famous
11/lt.ttraJiotU of thl Zoology of So11th Afrfra.
The fourth problem was that of punctuation. Generally
spea~g the punctuation throu!Shout the Diary is very sketchy,
especially where Smith is taking down notes from natives.
I have accordingly "restored" the punctuation as well as I could.
The fifth problem had to do with Smith's spelling. Very
often he would omit a letter from a word, as • the • for • they,'
or • decent ' for • descent.' Such minor errors I have corrected

• Slace goiag to preu l have found that these notea refer to A.G. Bain'a
tnk of 1816. Smith apparendr obtained the information &om ~
 INTllODUCTION

without comment. Again, in writing down unfamiliar proper

names, such as those of places, tribes, chiefs or other people,
he used a phonetic method of his own, which in many cases
he was compelled to do. Occasionally he gives a whole series
of spellings to one name, changing it as his ear becomes accus-
tomed to the sounds of the strange language. These changes arc
of great importance, since they show that Smith noted down
what hi hllll'tl to the best of his ability. I have therefore retained
his characteristic spelling of all foreign and proper names,
and also those of animals and plants. One typical example is
the name of Moshesh, which appears successively as Massus,
Maschush and Moschush. In interpreting some of the more
obscure names I have found it necessary, remembering that
Smith was a Scotsman, to pronounce aloud his version of the
names in Scottish fashion, thereby making them clear at once.
Thus the curious name 'Fitsachey,' when pronounced as it
would be north of the Tweed, turns out to be the quite familiar
• Visagie.' I have likewise made no attempt to alter Smith'•
frequent ' Scotticisms.'
A sixth problem was more serious. Occasionally a word is
quite undecipherable, either because the writing was really
l>ad (sometimes Smith's quill pen was blunt) or because it had
become concealed or obliterated by the binding of the Diary.
In such cases I have either suggested a reading, or have openly
confcssed my inability to interpret them. In a fcw instances
Smith himself has left blanks ; these I have reproduced by a
row of dots.
The Map and Index I hope to append to the Second V olumc.
 DIARY OP THE EXPEDITION.

ll AUGUST (TUESDAY), 18 34•

Early in the morning commenced loading the wagons

but in consequence of the irregularity of the Hotten-
tots we were not able to get off from Graaf£ Reynct
till about ~ o'clock p.m. I directed the wagons to be
halted for the night at Pinnear's River 1 where I was to
join them in the evening, but from the state of in-
toxication which most of the drivers were in it was
not possible to get them to halt till they reached the
Oude Berg, a distance of three hours from Graaf£
Rcynet. There I reached them about nine o'clock and
found some very intractable. The road was princi-
pally over a flat of a clayey soil, towards the Oude
Berg being several low trap hills between which the
road passed.

J J AUGUST (WEDNESDAY).

At sh o'clock started and rode back to Graaff'

R~et to settle some accounts and purchase some
arttclcs that could not be conveniently procured
yesterday. The latter I despatched in a cart and we
started from under the Oudc Ber~ about two o'clock
p.m. Our course was between hills of trap, in some
places along their sides, and always ascending. In
the course of an hour we reached the Enniskillcn Pus,
I ~•IJYU.
 .ANDREW SMITH DI.ART

so called in honor of Sir L. Cole. The road extends

along the side of a hill at a considerable distance from
its base, and must have been a work of very great
labour as the solid rock nearly the whole distance
must on the upper side of the road have been cut to
eight or ten feet in order to obtain the level. This was
undertaken by a few of the most respectable individuals
of Graaff Reynet and all the expenses were met by
them. Mr. Bain was the chief manager, and he
acknowledges the assistance of Mr. Murray, Mr.
Stretch and Dr. Perry.1 Obstacles of various descrip-
tions were thrown in the way by individuals, and by
some from whom they could scarcely have been
expected ; nevertheless he persevered with the aid and
support of the gentlemen above named, and eventually
completed the work, which is not only an honor to
him and his coadjutors but even to the district,
though the latter, with the exceptions mentioned,
bore no share in the labour or expense. Whilst as-
cending this road we were joined by Mr. Murray,
Mr. Stretch, Mr. Osh • and Mr. Brown in two horse
wagons, who had kindly made up a party to escort us
to the top of the Compass Berg. When we reached the
top of the hill the road took a direction to the eastward
of north, and for the remaining part of the after-
noon and evening extended over nearly a flat between
hills which enclosed us in every direction. No
appearance of grass in any direction ; the only
covering to the soil was small stunted bushes.

i Andrew Geddes Baio, who accompanied the Expedition &om Gru!'-

Reinet to Philippolis. Mr. Andrew Murny was dcr~ of Gnalf-Reinet.
Captain Charles Lennox Stretch was an officer in the Cape regiment. Dr;
Perry waa a surgeon of Gnaif-Rcinct,
• o.;hae.
 ANDllEW SMITH DIAllT 19
14 AUGUST (THUllSDAY).

About 7 o'clock a.m. our · Graaff l,leynct frcinds,

who lodged for the night at Grobler's, joined us and
carried us in their wagons to the base of the Compass
Berg. They had despatched an ox wagon with eatables
and bedding some days before, so that we were render-
ed extremely comfortable for the night which we
remained under the mountain.

I j AUGUST (FllIDAY).

About 7 o'clock a.m., after a cup of coffee.- etc.,

we commenced the ascent of the Compass Berg, and
Mr. Murray, in order to ensure security as to the .road,
had secured two farmers .resident near the spot to
accompany us. We .reached the top in the course of
an hour and a half. The ascent we found difficult and
fatiguing. In several places it was necessary to pull
eacli other up, and nearly the whole. distance we re-
quired to use both hands and feet in passing along the
.rugged surface, which consisted of large masses of
stone irregularly disposed one upon another. From
the summit we had an extensive view of the Snewberg,
and also of the low country on both sides of it. When
the weather is fine and the atmosphere clear, the
country to the north of the Orange River is quite
visible from this peak and also the Winterhoek range
near Uitcnhage, neither of which could be seen on
this day as a considerable haze existed in the distance.
The descent was even more difficult than the ascent.
With the exception of knots of grass fairly thinly
distributed in the valleys and slo\>es of the hills near
their bases, nothing like vcgctatton was to be seen
 ANDll:!"W SMITH DIARY

save and except the stunted bushes, which were black

and burnt up. The aspect of the country in this belt
is extremely barren and the fcrruginous tint of the
trap hills gives a most miserable appearance to the
scene. After rains during the summer the grass is very
abundant, and then there is everywhere fine grazing
for cattle and sheep. Rode in the afternoon to the
wagons.
16 AUGUST (SATURDAY).

Started at n o'clock from Pict van dcr Mervcl's,•

and reached in the eve~ another farmer's residence
of the same name. The road winded through the
narrow Bats between the trap hills and presented an
~ually barren aspect as towards the Compass Berg.
Between these hills, towards the place where we halted,
the centres of the valleys were covered with elephant
grass, dried and withered, together with long rushes.
Water very good, and here and there is tolerable
quantity. The farmer where we halted owned 1 s,ooo
morgcns of land around his house.

17 AUGUST (SUNDAY).

Mr. Krotz,1 the missionary, perf'ormed service in

the Dutch language in the forenoon and in English
in the afternoon. He adverted in the latter service to
the death of Mr. Stoll • and gave us a sermon on the
shortness of life and the uncertainty thereof. Pict
van dcr Mervel visited us, and towards evening Mr.
1 Van der Menre.
1 One of the Gamm miaaiooaria who ICCOIDpacled the BxpcditiOll •
f'u u Philippoli1. His mme wu Kraut.
• Joachhii William Stoll,Recemr Geocral of'cbl Cape. llKl a lbarelaoldK
iD the Espedidoll.
 ANDREW SMITH DIAR.T 61
Moodie, Mr. Krotz, Captain Edie and myself set out
with the intention of visiting his residence, which
was about three miles from where our wagons were
halted. In the attempt we were unsuccessful, and
instead of reaching his house fell in with a kraal of
Buchuannas1 or Batchlapies,• as they called them-
selves. They were in his service, and employed in
taking charge of his cattle. They informCd us that
they had been attacked by the Bastards, their cattle
carried away, and many of their nation killed by guns.
Begged snuJf and tobacco.
18 AUGUST (MONDAY).

Mr. v10 dcr Mervel spoke in favourable terms of

the Buchuannas and said that many of them were good
herdsmen ; that others were indolent and disinclined
to work. Thinks the colonists are benefited by the
residence of those people in the Colony. He appeared
to consider the abolition of slavery as likely to bene-
fit the Colony and was well aware of the advantages
of attending to the wool and sheep. He has com-
menced rearing them, and intends to purchase sh~
with the money he receives for his slaves. The valley
contains very little grass, and towards the more
central portions long rushes. Everywhere the country
presents a most barren appearance.

19 AUGUST (TUESDAY).

Travelled nine hours with the wagons and reached

Comelis Visser at Gordons Fonteyn 1 at 8 p.m. Mr.
i Tswana.
I nlJaping.
• See map.
 ANDREW SMITH DIAllT

Bain and myself arrived there about j, and were met

at a little distance from the house by Mr. Visser and
eight or nine farmers, who conducted us to the house
where we were very hospitably received. Mr. Visser
bas the most comfortable house I have seen since
leaving Graaff Reynet. The country over which we
travelled was almost destitute of vegetation ; only
thinly covered by dwarf black bushes of from six
inches to a foot in height. Towards the centre of the
flats patches of coarse grass and rushes occurred here
and there, the gnu abundant on the Hats in herds of
considerable size. They were seen gambolling about
in the most playful manner just like young calves or
horses. When pursued they generally run in a string
one after the other, and as they scampered over the
plains their numbers were rendered indistinct from
the clouds of dust which enveloped them, the soil
being in ~eneral light sand. The Rev. Mr. Murray
accomparued by Mr. Stretch arrived late in the evening
of the 10th. Halted at Visser's on the .ioth.

11 AUGUST (THURSDAY).

About 9 o'clock a.m. I left Gordons Fonteyn in

Mr. Murray's wagon for Colesberg. The latter we
reached about half-past six in the evening, and took
up our lodging in the parsonage house. Mr. M.
visits Colesberg every four months to preach to the
farmers, etc., belonging to that parish, and to ad-
minister the sacrament, baptize, etc. During the day
we passed several farm houses and at two of them we
halted for a short time. The owners appeared much
pleased to see their clergyman, and they entertained
our party with tea. The face of the country exhibited
 ANDR.KW SMITH DIAR.T

a most barren appearance, nothing green to be seen ;

any grass that existed was dry and withered. The
short bushes were all in the same condition, so that it
is quite impossible for cattle or sheep to procure
even a sufficiency to support existence. Springboks
are extremely common at certain seasons, and the
farmers make large karosses with their skin, which
they sell in Graaff Reynet for floor covers. One con-
taining 42 skins was bought by one of our party for
.is Rds. Lions are very common in the country
towards Visser's, and they are said generally to resort
to the hills during the day and to the plains during the
night. Many of the farmers lose horses through them.
All the farmers unite in declaring that it is quite im-
possible for them to feed their Hocks upon their own
farms when such droughts occur as have happened
this year. That I can readily believe. Venter, a little
distance from Colesberg, has a pretty considerable
supply of water which enables him to sow corn to a
small extent, and to cultivate a tolerably large garden
in which he grows vegetables of various descriptions.
This man was fined at the instance of the Protector of
Slaves for having maltreated a slave. When the fine
was ordered by the Magistrate he immediately threw
down the money on the table in addition to some more,
and on being told there was too much he observed.
" You may keep it also.'' In general, however, a
good feeling seems to exist in regard to slaves, and
several of the farmers who possess such property
have expressed their wish that all relating to slavery
should be at an end. They intend purchasing wool
sheep with the compensation money, the prejudice
against them having quite disappeared in the Gruff
Rcynct district. They remark that the country they
F
 ANDR.EW SMITH DIAl.Y

inhabit is not calculated to support the large troops of

African sheep which they possess, but they think it
would sustain sufficient wool sheep to enable them to
live comfortably. One farmer told me that he had
observed that the severe colds which they experience
in the Snewbcrg1 often kill the African sheep but
produce no injurious effect upon the others. Many
of the most intelligent farmers expressed a wish that
the Protector of Slaves, Mr. Mooclie,1 who accom-
panied us, should explain to the most intelligent
slaves the nature of the law as regarded the abolition
act, and recommend them to live quietly till their
period of slavery was past, promising at the same time
that their wish was to be kind and liberal in return.
At Colesbcrg Mr. Murray is usually received by one
of the deacons, who lives in the house during his
stay and supplies table, etc. On this occasion the
Veld Comet Joubert was the person for that duty.
Wagons are sent by the more opulent to convey
Mr. M. from and to Graaff Rcynct.
22 AUGUST (PRIDAT).

During the entire day wagons poured into the

village from every direction. They drew up in cli.ffcr-
ent situations ; generally those of a Veld Cometcy or
a particular part of the country assembled together.
As soon as the oxen were let loose, each wagon clis-
gor~ed a small tent which was pitched close to the
vehicle, and in that the family resided during its stay.
The Hantam people occupied one position, the Zcc-
kow River another, etc. Several called upon Mr. M.,
i Saecuwbetg•
• Lieut.Donald Moodie. Thca1. G. M.,Hum;, efSINlj .AfrMr (1l54-I1s4),
Loodon. 1111, Vol. iv, p. 60.
 ANDlll!.W SMITH DIAllY

particularly those who had business with him. Many

persons belonging to the district of Graaff Reynet
requested to have children baptised, which Mr. M.
was disinclined to do in consequence of its es-
tablishing a precedent for irtegularities. He, however,
out of sympathy complied with their requests.

23 AUGUST (SATURDAY).

During the whole day wagons kept pouring into the

village, and towards evening 18 j were reckoned
in different parts of the village. In the course of the
day many sick persons came to the parsonage to re-
quest medical advice, several with sores, all of which
they thou~ht were of a cancerous nature. They en-
quired with great anxiety about that, and when I
told them their fears were unfounded they appeared
as if they did not credit what I said, and some, even
while I was present, asked the opinion of Mr. M.
In the afternoon of Saturday Mr. M. was engaged in
questioning the young who were supplicants for ad-
mission into the church. About 36 were present and
I was surprised by the shrewd answers many of them
gave to intricate questions he put to them; 24 he
received and the rest were rejected till next examina-
tion. Mr. M. informed me that few of them fear being
rejected. He was engaged with them from three
o'clock p.m. till about nine.
24 AUGUST (SUNDAY).

About half-past nine the congregation began to

repair to the church, and at ten the service began.
Every individual either cauied a chair or a stool,
or else sent one or other of them before them. The
66 ANDRBW SMITH DIARY

building consists of three wings, and the men sit on

one side of each wing and the women on the other,
leaving a narrow passage along the centre. Several
sat around the base of the p1.llpit, and [these] con-
sisted principally of the families of the deacons, elders,
etc. The entire [congregation] presented a most motley
and grotesque appearance. Some few of the women
were fashionably dressed, but most of them had on
their head either small black bonnets or what arc
called "cappies." Some had gaudy coloured gowns
and one or two were dressed in silks. Most of them
had white stockings, but a few had only shoes. During
service all appeared very attentive and devout. Few
ever directed their eyes from the minister. In the
afternoon service was again performed, and after that
the children were baptised. About 40 presented them-
selves, and during the address previous to the cere-
mony being performed, the women and fathers were
ranged in several rows in front of the pulpit. When
the time arrived for promising obedience to the
injunctions of the church, the males bowed obedience
and the females curtsied. As soon as Mr. M. descended
from the pulpit to commence operations, the rush was
so great upon him, each being more anxious than
another to be 6.rst in order to get away, that he was
forced to retreat within the pillars which supported the
pulpit. He poured the water after reading the name
which was handed to him on a scrap of paper by the
mother. Scarcely any child received fewer than two
christian names and most of them three.
2. j .AUGUST (MONDAY).

During this day the party was busily employed in

preparing to leave Colesberg and in housing the wheat
 ANDRJ!W SMITH DIAllY

which I was forced to leave behind in consequence

of the difficulty of procuring wagons to convey it
to Philopolis. Several of the farmers' wagons left
immediately after service on Sunday, and by midday
on Monday almost all had disappeared. The great
proportion were horse wagons, and the owners were
extremely anxious to get away as there was actually
nothing for their cattle, etc., to feed upon. The Graaff
Reynet traders, who had resorted to the village to
trade with the farmers, all left about the same time,
and I was told by them that they considered that there
had been sold about 8,ooo Rds. worth of merchandise.
300 wagons have been seen on such occasions at Colcs-
berg. Mr. M. considers that the number was not so
large this time in consequence of the extreme drought
which had occurred, and from so many of the in-
habitants of the district being so far beyond the
Orange River with their cattle.
Colcsbcrg is situated in a narrow valley between
two ranges of low hills and just below the spring
which supplies the water. The spring is weak and
scarcely affords means for irrigating even a very few
gardens. The site of the village and a great extent of
country around it was granted to the church by Sir
L. Cole, together with a power to sell small spots for
the support of the church. The latter as well as the
parsonage house was built by the voluntary contri-
butions of the inhabitants. I calculated that 800
persons were present in the church on Sunday. They
arc very anxious to have a resident clergyman, and a
memorial was signing at the time we were there.
Many held back from signing it under an impression
that by doing so they would -be forced to pay for the
Minister that might be appointed. The village at
68 ANDREW SMITH DIARY

present contains about fourteen houses, some of them

substantial buildings. Mr. Heugh has a shop there
which is moderately supplied with the articles most in
demand amongst the farmers. The clerk of the church
usually reads a portion of scripture and directs the
singing of a psalm before the clergyman enters upon
his duties. The man who is clerk here reads a sermon
to such as may attend church on Sundays between the
periods of Mr. M. visiting. He also acts as school-
master.
i6 AUGUST (TUESDAY).

About 10 o'clock we left Colcsberg and directed

our course towards the Black River,1 which we reached
towards dusk. The country everywhere exhibited a
most barren appearance ; only in the low grounds,
towards the centres of the flats, a little withered
grass was to be seen and some long coarse rushes on
the low hills which lay at a little distance from the
road. On both sides a few green bushes were observed,
and the remains of small ones were seen scattered over
the flats, but nowhere in such abundance as to cover
the surface. The soil was a fine clay which on the
surface was hardened by the sun and wind, but when
broken up by any means exhibited a fine dust which
was carried about in clouds by the lightest winds.
About half way between Colesberg and the river we
passed a farm house where there was a moderate
supply of water. On reaching the river, we halted
for the night on its banks.

1 ~Upper Orange RiTGt,

 ANDIUSW SMITH DIARY

27 AUGUST (WEDNESDAY).

The oxen were permitted to graze during the night,

and it was not till towards noon that they were got
together. The wind blew very strong, and clouds of
dust were Hying in every direction, which were here
very annoying in consequence of the great abundance
of loose soil which borders the river on both sides.
Along the edges of the river grow a few dwarf bushes
and a number of willow trees, the green of which was
very a~recablc after [our] having been for so many
days without witnessing that tint except in gardens or
small cornfields. The stream was here about 100
yards in breadth, the water beautifully clear and [in]
some places about 1 8 inches deep.
The ascent from the northern side was rather steep
and several of the spans required assistance to carry
the wagons up to the plain above. As it was nearly
1 when we started, it was considered likely that we
would require to halt before reaching Philopolis, and
[we] therefore filled all the barrels with water. It
turned out to be necessary, and we halted after crossing
the first Hat, which extends from the river about
three hours distant from it where there was rain water
for the oxen to drink.

28 AUGUST (THUllSDAY).

I started on horseback early this morning as soon

as the oxen were yoked, and reached Philopolis about
ten. The wagons arrived about twelve. Called on
Mr. Kolbe 1 who received us kindly, and after furnish-
1 Clergyman at Pbilippolis.
 ANDUW SMITH DIARY

ing us with breakfast he conducted us to the place

where Mr. Kift with the 3 wagons had taken up a
position. The road extended along the Bats as
hitherto, and mod~tely low hills extended on each
aide of us, which, from their position, required us to
travel a much greater distance than would otherwise
be necessary. When we arrived at the wagons we
found the Union Jack flying, and all the party were
glad to see us. The three wagons being situated in
rather a bleak position, we drew up those which ar-
rived today unacr a hill, and had the others moved
to the same place in the course of the afternoon.

2.9 AUGUST (FRIDAY),

During the whole of the day the wind blew with

great violence and clouds of dust were flying in every
direction. The tents ·which had been pitched the day
before were all blown down, and, though they were
re-pitched, some experienced a second time a like fate.
Though at our encampment the wind and dust were
particUlarly annoying, both were much more so at
Philopolis. Mr. Kolbe informed me that such winds
were not infrequent in this time of year, and he said
that if they continued to blow for a length of time,
they generally had a very rainy season. He thought
it wowd either terminate in rain or snow. About a
fortnight before our arrival they had a fall of snow
to nearly an inch in depth. Towards sunset the wind
usually abates, and rises again in the morning an
hour or two after sunrise. Most of the rains here are
accompanied by a N .E. wind. This day the wind
blew the first few hours from the N.E., but the most
-yiol~~ ~iQq was fro.tll the N. W.
 ANDREW SMITH DIAlt.T 71

Had a long conversation with Cornelius Kok, and

afterwards with Hendrick Hendricks and Adam or
Dam Kok 1 about the state of this district and of the
neighbouring tribes.
JO AUGUST (SATURDAY).

Mr. Ford exerted himself to finish drawings of

toads and lizards.
I found the cold in my wagon to have been during
the night H· The waters near the wagon had a thin
coat of ice ; wind moderate in the early part of the
day, and towards evening perfect calm.
Had the blacksmith up from Philopolis to examine
the wheels of the wagons. Several were discovered to
.rc_quire the bands to be shortened. The greater number
of the party went out in search of birds, etc., but few
succeeded in obtaining any.
A grey winged partridge was killed amongst others.
Several reported that amongst the hills there was a
considerable quantity of dry grass and particularly
upon the tops of some of them.
JI AUGUST (SUNDAY).

Service was performed this day by Mr. Gabel,•

and in the evening myself and several of our party
went to church at the village. There were a number
of persons in attendance, many of them well dressed
and orderly, and attentive throughout the service.
IGdquu. Comella and Adam were brothers ; Thcal, G. M., Hism;y
•1 SOido J4{rko (1l34-18y4), London,
1888, Vol. iv. I>· 580 1l 11f. Hendrik
Headrlb wu at this time accrctary to the Griq_u Govcmmcnt.
• The eecond of the two German missionancs who accompmled the
~eiOD U fat U Philippolis. Hie name 'WU Gebel.
 ANDREW SMITH DIAllY

Several Corannas from a distance were also present,

most of them dressed in karosses, the women with
petticoats, the men with trousers and fur caps, the
fur inside, and the cap just large enough to receive
the head.
Hendrick Hendricks was present, and during the
service he displayed a demeanour indicative of great
self-conceit and conceived importance. Ul'on con-
versing with Mr. K. as to the character of this person,
he assured me that the opinion I had formed was per-
fectly correct ; that he was vain and conceited, and
considered himself a person of no trifling consequence.
He states him to be a most plausible person, and of so
accommodating a temper that when the Captain gets
displeased with him, and rejects his councils, he
gradually ingratiates himself again, and is never for
any long time out of favour. He is much respected
by the Corannas and Griquas, but treated with in-
difference by the Bastards.
1 SEPTEMBER (MONDAY).

Visited the village early this morning for the purpose

of endeavouring to hire oxen to proceed with the
wagons to Colesberg to convey thither two loads of
wheat. I found on reaching Mr. Kolbe that this was
the day on which the legislative council held its sitting.
It is composed of the chief and five councillors. I
proposed to Mr. K. to request that I might be present.
Upon the demand being made to the Captain, he
evinced considerable reluctance as far as could be
inferred from silence and look. I however perseyered,
and offered to assist with my advice, provided they
would consider and discuss matters connected with
 ANDR~W SMITH DIAllT

themselves and the Colony. At last they agreed, and

we entered upon the consideration of wliat would
be the best understanding that should exist between
them and the Colonial Government. From the first they
all evinced a great suspicion of me, and from seeing
that so evident I could not refrain from requesting
~fr. Kolbe to inform them that I observed it. The
Captain replied that I was a stran~er to them, and that
they did not know me ; he neither said they were
suspicious nor they were not. It appeared to me
that he comprehended the tendency of the suggestions
I offered more thoroughly than any of the others, but
he was less ready with remarks than the others.
Hendrick Hendricks was the most pertinent in making
sensible remarks, and the most clear in stating objec-
tions. The others occasionally offered very fair argu-
ments against measures I suggested, and I was struck
with the great caution they evinced in considering
questions. They appeared as a body to be well cal-
culated to manage a small community such as theirs is,
and a very fair proportion of intellect and sagacity was
displayed in their various observations. They ac-
knowledged that their security and existence as an
independent people depended entirely on their con-
nection with the Government, and that it was necessary
that they should take care to cultivate its favour in
order to have its support and countenance. Not one
seemed to believe that they could exist as a community
without the succour of the Colonial [Govt.,] and
all appeared ready and willing to perform any duty
which mi~ht be required of them, and which was
within theu power, in order to be regarded as friends
of the Government. They complained bitterly of
the farmcts from the Colony being permitted to
 A.NDllEW SMITH DIARY

establish themselves upon their grounds, and dwelt

strongly upon statements which had been made to
them by the farmers touching their want of just claim
upon the country, it having been the country of the
Bushmen, on which account they wished it to be
understood that they, the farmers, were as much en-
titled to use it as the Griquas. They complained that
the farmers appeared to consider them as in no way
deserving of such a possession, and that they were in
the habit of asserting that they were the children of
the Government, and that therefore the Government
was bound to consider their claim to the Bushman
country in preference to that of the Griquas.
Towards the evening of this day Mr. Gabel and Mr.
Krotz waited on me, and after some preliminary
conversation stated their intention of leaving the
expedition. I made very few remarks at the moment,
but declared my wish that Mr. Kolbe should be present
when we discussed the subject, which they consented
to. Had it simply been that they as individuals wished
to leave, I should not have considered it necessary
to offer any observations; but as it was to deprive us
of two men whom I had hired at Graaff Reynet at
their suggestion, with the understanding that they
were to accompany the party for twelve months, I
thought it necessary to discuss the propriety of the
step they proposed taking in order to prevent the
latter taking place. They acknowledged to me that
they intended to discharge the men, and that they had
put the question to me " did I intend sending wagons
back to Colesberg in order that there might be the
means of conveyance open for them so far ? " I
told them after being abfe to discover no just reason
for their changing from their original intentions, that
 .ANDREW SMITH DIARY

I could not a~ree to the two men leaving the party,

and settled with them that I should myself speak to
''
the individuals tomorrow morning. They were
informed by me at Graaff Reynet that there was no
chance of our touching at Latakoo,1 yet they made no
objettions on that score. They certainly seemed to
wish to see Mr. Moffat, which I told them I thought
they would have an opportunity of doing. From
the entire of the conversation I was impressed with a
belief that they had been led to change in consequence
of fearing Masalacatzie.
2 SEPTEMBER (TUESDAY).

Occupied in preparing the wagons which are de-

stined to proceed to Colesberg for the corn. In the
afternoon visited the village and had a long conversa-
tion with the old chief. He professed himself to
believe me their friend, and stated that he had last
night heard of what I had suggested for the chief of
the Bondie Zwarts.• Was much more communicative
than formerly. The Hottentots engaged for the
missionaries' wa~on came to me, and spoke of what
the missionaries intended to do. I told them I could
not annul the agreement between them and myself.
They a\'peared perfectly satisfied to proceed with the
expedition.
3 SEPTEMB:!Jl (WEDNESDAY).

The wagons, two in number, with hired oxen,

and Mr. Kiftwithfiveofthepa.rty,leftabout I I o'clock
1 Kuruman, a station o( the London Missionary Society.
1 A Hotraltot tribe living at Warmbad, S. Namaqualand.
 .A.NDilEW SMITH DIARY

for Colesberg. Most of the party were occupied during

most of the day digging out Scuun.1
Took Alpha Lyrae which passed the board 7.41.49.1
The party from Buffcls Vley returned this evening.
4 SEPTEMBER (THURSDAY).

Various instances of weakness on the part of the

Griqua Government were mentioned to me. Corannas
stole from the Buchuannas cattle. The Bastards, not
Griquas, but still living under the jurisdiction of Kok,
were roused by this oppression and proposed inter-
fering. They retook the cattle by a commando under
De Bruin consisting of about 2 5 men, all Bastards, and
gave them back to the Caffers. The Corannas followed,
and as soon as they were delivered over and the com-
mando gone they took them again. De Bruin sus-
pected that such might be the result, [and] placed his
commando behind a hill from whence diey could
watch the station. It happened just as he suspected ;
he attacked them a second time and some lighting
took place. One Coranna was killed, the cattle re-
taken, and also the horses of the Corannas. The former
were delivered to the Caffers a second time and the
horses were held by Kok. Some time afterwards the
Corannas sent a message to Kok that provided the
horses were not returned to them they would declare
war. This threat had the desired effect; the horses
1 Robert Schoon, originally Scoone, was a native of Hawick, Scotland.
In 18a9 he and • certain William McLuclde went on a trading cxpcditlOG
to the north, and 11ctually travelled at least as far as Mzilikazi's monghold
near Zecrust in the Transvaal.
a This ttmarlr: rcfcra to a tnnsit of Vega (a. Lyme). Dr. W. van den Bos
of the Oblcrvatory, Johannesburg, worked out Smith's calculation at my
f:J:'t. His result was 7.41.47.7, thus revealing Smith's accuracy ill dac
 ANDREW SMITH DIARY 77
were delivered up, and since that De Bruin is fearful
of the Corannas, they considering him as the person
who had injured them not with the wish of the chief.

S SEPTEMBER (FRIDAY).

The oldest son of Kok is a hasty imperious character,

and even when they are trying cases does not hesitate
to rise up and beat a witness. He is not respected
by the people, and they object to him as the successor
to the captainship. They consider his not being able
to write a great objection. A party of Pinnear's state
that in particular, and anticipate unpleasant occurrences
from having such a person because they have already
experienced them under the present chief. Letters
have been written to them by Hendrick Hendricks,
the secretary to Kok, and when they enquired about
the subjects of them they found that the captain was
ignorant of such ever having been penned. The body
of the people arc desirous that Adam, the second son,
shall succeed, and the feeling is so well understood
that it is universally considered that he is to be the
person. He hall not yet agreed to assume it, and upon
my questioning him on the subject he observed that it
was no easy matter to accept, and that it required
the most serious consideration. He is described by
Mr. Kolbe as a firm, determined person, and Mr. K.
says during the short time he governed for his father
when he was absent at the Kat River effected more
good than had been done for years before. He ad-
ministered justice most rigidly, and even went in op-
position to his own relations. He is a sensible louking
man of about .24 years of age, rather taciturn and
diffident. He does not mingle much with the people.
 ANDIUrW SMITH DIAl.T

Hendrick Hendricks denied his right to dispossess

Adam,1 but now that he sees the voice of the/eople is
for him he has turned also. It is suppose that H.
objected from knowing that Adam was no particular
friend of his, and that he would not have the in-
fluence he has hitherto enjoyed, as Adam is able to
write his own letters. Pinnear remarked that if the
captain is able to write they will be certain that letters
sent by him are the letters of the chief. Some time ago
when it was ~enerally believed that Waterboer would
be created chief over the entire frontier, old Kok and
his adherents were upon the very verge of leaving the
district, and it was with some difficulty that they were
persuaded to wait the result of the deliberations of
Government.
6 SEPTEMBER. (SATUllDAT).
Engaged during the day preparing to start on a tour
to the eastward.
7 SEPTEMBER. (SUNDAY).
Attended divine service in the chapel at Phillipolis,
at 1 o'clock and at i past six. Mr. Kolbe preached
in the evening, and illustrated in plain but forcible
terms the love Christ bore to man.land, and as proof
of that his submitting himself without murmur to be
offered as a sacrifice for their sins. Each time the
church was pretty well attended and most of the
people were respectably dressed, some few very well.
8 SEPTEMBER (MONDAY).
Sent down a wa~on load of stores which were to
remain at Phillipolis.
1 Smith meant the eldest IOll.
 .ANDREW SMITH DIAJ.Y 79
9 SEPTEMBER (TUESDAY).

Messrs. Scohon,1 Malcolm, Granat and Bain left

us with their wagons, the three form.er for Latakoo,
the latter for the Hart River. Two more loads of
stores sent down to Mr. Kolbe, and 3s oxen which
were to be left behind.

IO SEPTEMBER (WEDNESDAY).

Upon my becoming bail for a Bastard from the

Colony who was under confuiement with the inten-
tion of being tried for an assault, the chief liberated
him and permitted him to accompany us.
The wagons moved about one o'clock, and we
reached Modder Fonteyn, the place of Gert Kok,1
about dark. At his residence we found no inhabitants,
but a little to the eastward a number of Caffers, men
and women, in charge of the cattle. One of them was
extremely anxious for a gun, and offered Mr. Kift
two young oxen for one, which of course was not
~mplicd with.

I I SEPTEMBER (THURSDAY).

During this day's travelling little difference was

discoverable in the character of the country. The old
grass stood rather more abundant, and the young
blades of a dark green colour began to be seen thinly
intermixed with the dry ones. The country consisted
still of Hats and trap hills, the form.er rather enlarging·
1 Schoon. .
1 Or " Abram" Kok ; the one word is &upcrimposcd on the other.
G
So .ANDREW SMITH DIARY

as we advanced to the eastward. Very few shrubs and

only on the hills a few thinly scattered dwarf trees.
Firewood scarce.
Abram Kok, one of the chief's sons, lives near where
we halted. He has a mat house and no furniture.
His wife [was] dressed in leather and his face [was]
painted red to protect it against the sun and wind.
[He] has a little land under cultivation. Several other
spots of cultivated land observable from the road.
The place where we halted is called Bank Fonteyn,1
and belongs to Adam Kok. Here is a small river which
runs during the rainy season ; also a little land under
cultivation which requires to be irrigated, and for that
purpose a dam has been formed above the land. A
person living here in the capacity of a servant asked
8 Rds. for a small year old calf and would take
nothing less. They evince but little desire to part with
their property, and they appear to fancy that we must
take what they offer and at any price they choose to
fix. In this respect they approximate to the Colonial
farmers. Everywhere complaints about the Boers, and
about losses they sustain by having the grass eaten
off by their cattle. The complaint appears just, as
CVe!}1Where immense flocks ana herds are to be seen
feeding over the entire country in this direction, and
even the farmers are actually residing close to the
houses of the Bastards, and threatening them, if they do
(not] rest quietly, that the circumstance will be reported
to Government. The places will then be taken and
measured out to the colonists. The Bastards in con-
sequence of these observations appear very miserable,
and will neither sow nor build, if their own statements
are to be credit~, lest they should by a step of Govern-
1 Sec map.
 ANDREW SMITH DIARY

ment lose both labour and property. Their minds

ought to be set at rest on this subject.

11 SEPTEMBER (FRIDAY).

About 2 o'clock left Bank Fonteyn, and about ipast

six reached Bosch Spruit,1 the property of a Bastard
from the Roggeveldt. He purchased this property
from Hendrick Hendricks for 100 Rds. It is well
supplied with water, having close to the house in
the channel of the stream four or five very large
deep holes. The water, however, is so low at present
that it cannot with the means he possesses be led out.
By means of a pump a sufficiency would be obtained
to irrigate a very considerable portion of land. He
complains of being very poor, having only about 200
goats. Several persons reside in the place with him,
who have come there in consequence of the drought
in other directions. On the flats, but especially on
the hills, an abundance of dry grass. Oose to him are
several farmers residing with their flocks, and actually
the cattle of those individuals may be seen feeding
almost upon the veryJ'recincts of the house. Wherever
the eye can be tume nothing but flocks of sheep and
herds of cattle are to be seen together, with here and
th~e ~ wagon or two, the temporary abodes of the
nugratJ.ng farmers.
All the Bastards acknowledge one serious incon-
venience which is experienced on this side of the
Colonial boundary, namely the non-existence of firm
and just laws. They SJ?eak of ~~ ~reat prolortion of
1
the inhabitants being 111 one £ · y and o the chief
not being inclined to go against his own relatives .
.1 Bolcbie's Spruit.
 ANDREW SMITH DIAitY

When a person has afarm granted to him in this country,

it is considered ever after as his own property, and
only resumable in the event of any serious crime. He
receives a title deed and is after that empowered to
sell his property should he be so disposed. On the
sale he is bound to transfer the title at the same time.
Hendrick Hendricks told me that since we left a
farmer had arrived at Phillipolis and offered him 2,000
Rds. for a place belonging to him. He rejected the
offer, and according to his statement desired the farmer
to go back to the Colony. Though here we found a
great number of sheep and young cattle yet we could
get none to purchase. When they were asked to sell
cattle they always replied that they were too lean to
kill. The grass on the flats is sour.

13 SEPTEMBER (SATURDAY).

Most of the Hottentots were this day employed in

searching for the oxen which during the night had
strayed and got mixed with the cattle belonging
to farmers, Caffers, etc. Before dark the greater
portion of them were got together., but several were
still absent. The wind blew very strong from the north,
and carried with it clouds of fine sand and dust.
Temperature high. At sunset wind abated. Evening
very fine.

14 SEPTEMBER (SUNDAY).

Prayers were read by M:r. Bell, and several persons

went out on horseback upon horses supplied by the
Bastards, and before evening they succeeded in ob-
taining all but three. One of the missing was a very
 ANI>RE\V SMITH DIAllY

fat ox. Three were taken out of a herd of Caffer

cattle which was driven by two Caffers who concealed
themselves in the grass the moment they were dis-
covered. A Caffer in the employ of a farmer stated
that if Caffers have got hold of the two missing [cattle]
they will never be found again. Wherever Caffers
reside for the time they have always friends at a dis-
tance who receive their plunder. They never keep
what they steal with them, but despatch them to a
distance to some of their friends in league with them.
By this arrangement they generally succeed in securing
their plunder. The Bastards assert that Caffers never
regard each other as men until they can prove by the
dexterity with which they steal, etc., that they are
entitled to be viewed as such. To cheat and rob with
dexterity is viewed by them as a very high accomplish-
ment, and particularly formed for recommending them
to the good opinion of the community to which
they belong. A Bastard told me that he once saw a
Caffer anxious to steal a knife that was lying on the
ground but no opportunity existed for carrying it
off without detection. He seated himself upon it and
so mtanaged to enclose it by his buttocks that he
actually carried it away. They are proverbial amongst
the inhabitants of this part of the countty for their
evil propensities and their cunning. When they arc
in cliarge of cattle belonging to another there arc
seldom any of them lost, but under other circumstances
it is difficult to trust them.
I am much disposed to believe that the two oxen
missing have been stolen, and that the Caffcr we had
in our employment from Graaff Reynct is the thief.
He accompanied us to within about 2 miles of Bosie's
Spruit and there absconded. It is scarcely probable
 ANDREW SMITH DIAR.T

that the oxen would have been divided amongst the

herds in the way we found them to have been with-
out some steps had been taken to separate them.
This was a plan probably adopted to render it probable
to us that they, the two, might still be with some other
cattle.
IS SEPTEM11ER {MONDAY).

All the oxen with the exception of threo having

been found the wagons started at I.Z. for the Caledon
Institution, while three men went in search of the
oxen. About three o'clock we heard that they had
been found close to the Orange River. The road
extended across five fiats covered with a little dry
grass. Almost no bush, hills low and joined in many
places by low ridges, all trap.
Mr. Pellisier 1 received us in a very friendly manner
on our arrival at his station. He mentioned that while
only Bushmen were residing there, he had a Caffer
to take care of his cattle and sheep. One day the
Caffers who used to tend both went off to turn the
former. He observed some of the Bushmen belonging
to the station near the sheep, and shortly afterward
saw them turn one away from the flock and drive it
to their own which they had brought near to the
spot. He j>.retended not to observe it but watched
closely their proceedings. They drove all together
behind a hill, and there killed the sheep which they
had seized belonging to Mr. P. The Caffer made Mr.
P. acquainted with the occurrence, and said he would
watch them at night as he knew they would bring
the flesh home. Accordingly he did so, and soon after
i Rev. Jean Pierre Pellissier of the Parle Bvmaelical Society.
 ANDREW SMITH DIARY

dark he came running to Mr. P. with the liver of the

sheep which he had taken out of the Bushman house
when they were absent cooking it.
I6 SEPTEMBER (TUESDAY).

17 SEPTEMBER (WEDNESDAY).

I8 SEPTEMlJER (THURSDAY).

19 SEPTEMBER (FRIDAY).

20 SEPTEMBER (SATURDAY).

2I SEPTEMBER (SUNDAY).1

21 SEPTEMBER (.MONDAY).

During the last week employed in investigating the

history of the tribes residing at Verhuill Missionary
Institution,1 and in getting drawings of their ap-
pearances, customs, dresses, etc. During the night
of the u the self-registering thermometer indicated
2 s. On the night of u it stood at 27.

23 SEPTEMBER {TUESDAY). I

Started at i past two on the road to Massua.'

At I past five halted at the • . . . . . River.• Country
1 No entries for these aix dates.
1 The Mission Station founded in 1854 by Rev. J. P. Pellissier. The
name was later chan~d to Bethulie.
1 On this day Silllth also wrote a report to Chase, Secretary to the .A.-
IOCiation for Exploring Central Africa. This report is now in the Public
Record Office, London.
• Moshcsh.
1 No name given : it wu the Slik Spruit, oeu Bethulle.
86 ANDREW SMITH DIARY

everywhere had a most barren appearance, nothing

green to be seen with the exception of a few shrubs
or very dwarf trees upon the tops and sides of some of
the hills. The grass on the flats withered and short,
having been eaten off by the numerous herds of cattle
which have lately been grazing throughout the whole
of the country. After halting we £x.ed the nets and
formed a kraal in which the cattle were placed. At
first they were rather troublesome, but after being
a short time confined they remained quite quiet and
rested without being watched during tlie whole night.
2.4 SEPTEMBER (WEDNESDAY).

When preparing to leave we found the axle tree

of the cart broken, which required to be repaired be-
fore we could proceed. Oose to our encampment we
found Carel Kruger, who is a good [smith, who] took
it away and repaired it by 4 o'clock p.m. Most of the
men were during the day employed shooting along the
Caledon River whose banks were margined by willow
trees. In the river a considerable quantity of water.
2.5 SEPTEMBER (THURSDAY).

Started at 11 a.m.,1 and passed the residence of Carel

Kruger, where he has led out the water of the Slik
River and thereby irrigated a considerable portion of
com land. He engaged to accompany us on our tour
to the eastward, and with that intention sent his
clothes and bedding to the wagon.
Soon after passing his house the wagons were
stopt in consequence of Botha riding up on horseback
1 The 1111J1uacript baa p.m.
 ANDREW SMITH DIARY

and reporting that Corporal McKenzie was drowned

in the river a little way to the north. Immediately
repaired thither on horseback, and found to my sorrow
that the poor fellow had shot a duck, and, in his
anxiety to get it, stripped off his clothes, and swam to
it. According to the statement of Hasswell, who was
with him at the time, he took the bird in his hand,
but almost immediately let it go again and disappeared
under the water, from which moment he never saw
him again. He ran off for help but all was unavailing ;
no body ever appeared again. The river was narrow
but very deep, on each side edged with long, strong
and close-set reeds and the eastern half of the river
was below water filled with an interweaved mass of
grass, which no doubt entangled his legs and arms.
Mr. Bell, Andries and Ishmael went across to the s:pot
upon a raft, but could see after the greatest exertton
no appearance of the body. The subaqueous vegeta-
tion was so dense that they could not see more than
four feet under the surface. I may say this river has
been the means of depriving us of one of our very
best men, a man remarkable for his quietness and for
the attention he bestowed upon any duty that was
entrusted to him. His loss will be a serious one and it
appears to be felt by most of the party, a general
gloom seeming to pervade all on the melancholy
occasion. It is much to be feared he was ill fitted for
so sudden an end. He professed to be a disbeliever of
our Saviour, and, poor fellow, he had at last little
time to think and get rid of such horrible notions.
About noon clouds began to rise in the north, and
lightening became very distinct and vivid by three
p.m. About 4, when we were searching for the body,
heavy thunder pealed and a slight shower fell. At
88 ANl:>RE\V SMI'I'H DIARY

the moment the report reached our wagons of the

misfortune I ordered them to be halted, and, when the
oxen were loosened, that all should repair to the spot.
After an unsuccessful search for the body we returned
to the wagons, got the oxen in, and proceeded as fat
as a farmer's residence; about a half hour from the
spot we halted.
26 SEPTEMBER (FRIDAY).

After halting the clouds began vigorously to

deliver up their treasures, and during most of the night
the rain fell in abundance. It continued during most
of the day, and everywhere little pools of water existed
on the flats. The soil on the surface became softened
by the rain and formed a sort of mortar, which
rendered walking difficult and fatiguing. About 4
p.m. the rain abated, and with the exception of a few
passing showers the rest of the day was fine. During
the time the rain was falling it felt warm, but after it
held up it felt very chilly.
The course of the Slik River is nearly E.N.E., and
consists of a series of very deep pools with only a very
small stream connecting them. At present the water
is tolerably fresh, but when the summer is advanced
it is almost salt and seldom runs. When for a season
or two there have not been rains sufficient to cause the
river to run, the pools, except in two or three places,
get almost dried up. In two or three places toward
the mouth of the river there are springs which always
afford fresh water. The banks in some places are steep,
in others nearly on a level with the :Bats, and will
in such spots admit of the water being led out for
purposes of irrigation. The country is particularly
 ANDREW SMI'l'H DlA:l.tY

remarkable for the almost total absence of trees. The

willows only grow along the edges of the larger streams,
and those are so low that even their tops are not to
be seen when looking along the flats. Such is the
case with the Caledon. Along the Slik River there are
no trees of any description. The edges of the water are
margined by long and strong reeds, particularly the
deep pools, and the soil between the deep pools
consists of a deep black vegetable moulQ. The
absence of trees is attributed to the brackishness of
the soil. The flats have scarcely a bush upon them,
and the grass grows in tufts closely set together.
There are two sorts of grass occurring, both sour and
sweet grass. The latter is the most abundant ; the
former appears longer in consequence of having been
left untouched by the cattle. The grass on the hills
is also said to be sour. The soil on the flats is clayey
and tenacious ; on the tops of most of the hills loose
and sandy. Amongst the rocks on the sides and tops
of the hills a few stunted trees and bushes. Where the
course of the river is low, the banks on each side arc
covered with rushes and long coarse grass ; these,
when they have been burnt off and shoot up again,
arc greedily eaten by the cattle. Ant hills are here as
well as throughout the entire country to the north
of the Orange River ; very abundant but not of any
very great size.
17 SEPnMli~ll (SATUllDAY).

Rained heavily during the night and even a. little

in the morning; also once in the afternoon. The wind,
which during the heavy rain blew from the south-
east, chan&ed in the course of the day to south, and
 ANDREW SMITH DIARY

at times it blew from the south-west. Clouds still

abundant and very dark.
The farmer living here has a small field of wheat
which looks well. Says corn does not grow very well
in consequence of the quantity of pot clay, but adds
if he had straw or something of tliat sort to plough
into the ground, it would produce excellent corn.
Last year the rust did not make its appearance but his
crop was eaten off by locusts whilst he was absent
in the Colony, whither he repaired in consequence of
the wars between the Corannas and Bastards. Does
not think either party would have disturbed him yet
he was alarmed. The grass on the flats is partly sour
and partly sweet ; the sour is known by its woolly
appearance. On the flats upon the tops of hills the sour
grass is more abundant th.an on the flats. Cattle keep
fat here even though the drought has been great. The
spring at this place is strong and the water perfectly
fiesh ; it never gets very weak, let the season be ever
so dry. Says the place he is now inhabiting is rather
unhealthy for lambs and sometimes also for full grown
sheep.
Dispatched two men to sec if the body of Corporal
McKenzie had risen, but on their return they stated
that they could discover no appearance of it. Evening
cloudy, with a strong wind from the S.W. or west.
Thermometer in the wagon at nine, jO.

2.8 SEPTEMBER (SUNDAY).

Mr. Bell read prayers to the party at 11 a.m. Mr.

Burrow and Mr. K.ift went down to the Slik River to
sec if the body had risen, but discovered nothing.
Ooudy during the day; very hot about noon. Several
 ANDREW SMITH DIAllY

farmers visited the one residing here and went to

examine his corn field. The conduct of the party this
day forced upon one's recollection that it was a day
of quiet and rest.
z9 SEPTEMBER (.MONDAY).

Sour grass does not get destroyed in the roots so

much as the sweet grass ; the sweet grass is by the
treading of feet killed, and is succeeded by small
bushes. Most of the Sneeberg grass is sour and it is
not so much destroyed as the sweet grass which pre-
vails between Gordon Fonteyn and the river. In the
warm Bokkeveld where the grass is sweet there are
more bushes than grass. In the cold where the grass
is sour more grass than bushes. In places where reeds
grow, the moment the ground in which they stand is
much trampled upon by cattle they begin to weaken
and gradually die, or at least only send out small
shoots. On the other hand, cut them off with knives
or sickles and they grow still as strong as formerly.
Both grass and reeds must have a loose soil.
In country where bushes abound, nothing destroys
them so soon as keeping the roots constantly damp.
Thus farmers who have a command of water distri-
bute it through a bushy district and so get rid of the
bushes, and have afterwards a fine crop of grass.
Kruger complains that the farmers pursue no system
on their farms. If they were to feed their sheep
upon the higher and dryer parts and let the cattle
resort to the moister parts of the farm, the grass would
never be destroyed in the way it is.
A farmer is eaten up with laziness ; he does nothing
during the 14 hours but bustle a little about daylight,
 ANDREW SMITH DIAllY

and in the evening when the cattle and sheep come

to the kraal. All that a farmer's daughter can do or
ever does is to make cappies, or ask the slaves or
servants how this and that is. They do much less
in the distant districts than about Cape Town. A
farmer always has a headache about noon, which is an
excuse for taking a nap. They are always particularly
anxious for food in the evenin~. The moment it is
dark the general question is ' How is it with the
food " ; if the answer is " it is ready," he replies
"Bring maar, let ons eat/'1 and after that is finished
off all go to sleep. About 16 a youth thinks of getting
married and then he begins to talk of what sheep he
has and how he can get a place. Having accomplished
these and got his wife, he then thinks only in what
way he can enjoy laziness and drink tea water.
We travelled to-day about five hours and a half,
viz., from Sea Cow Hut 1 to Scoorsteinberg ; • every-
where abundant remains of the grass of last year.
Between these places we passed a small spring where a
farmer of the name of ...... & was living. He in-
formed me that he had resided there for the last three
years and that he had sown corn last year but it was
all destroyed by the locusts. This year he has also
sown and it looks remarkably well. He is forced to
irrigate. The spring gets weaker than at present about
the months of December and January; never saltish.
At all times enou~h of water for the necessities
of a moderate establishment.
Very few small bushes on the flats, several largish
ones on the hills, and here and there some solitary
1 " Bring maar, laat ons ect."
I Gat, C>r hole.
I Scboorateenberg. See map.
• No mme &iven•
 ANDREW SMITH DIARY 93
dwarf trees upon the high grounds. The spring at
Scoorsteinberg dry ; got rain water in holes near
to it. It is the intention of some farmers to lead out
the Caledon for purposes of irrigation. Says the
farmers arc actually too lazy to clean the locks of
their guns when they are dirty, and do not give good
fire. They fancy something must be wrong with the
pans and immediately request a gunmaker or such-
like person to repair it.
30 SEPTEMBER (TUESDAY).

Kruger mentioned that in I 810 a commission was

appointed by Lord Caledon to endeavour to introduce
Spanish sheep throughout the Colony. The Landdrost
of Tulbag~ Van der Graff, gave an order through the
field cornets that all the Cape rams should be castrated
and others substituted in their place. Most of the
inhabitants complied with the order. Kruger resisted,
and told the field cornet that as soon as he was pre-
pared he would do so. This answer having been
carried back to the Landdrost, some days afterwards
the same veldt cornet and 4 men arrived at Kruger,s,
and when asked what was the matter, Pinnear told him
he would see, as the Landdrost was close at hand.
By this time the messenger of the Landdrost had
arrived and he desired Kruger to get his sheep home
and put them in the kraal. The Landdrost on his
arrival asked Kruger if he had cut his rams. Upon
being answered in the negative, he then desired to
know if he intended to do so, and upon being informed
" No," he said, " Then I will cause it to be done,"
and immediately desired the persons {'resent to repair
to the kraal and perform the opctation. It was in-
94 ANDREW SMITH DIARY

stantly done and away they went. Kruger proceeded

to Cape Town and waited upon the Governor, and
to him stated the case. His Lordship appeared much
annoyed, and caused the veldt cornet and the four
men to appear in Cape Town together with Kruger.
He having ascertained that Kruger's complaint was
fairly made, ordered the persons who had misapplied
their powers to pay the value of the rams, which
were estimated by the owner at u. Rds. each. Fischer
was brother-in-law of Van der Graff, and succeeded
him as Landdrost. He was hostile to Kruger, and
upon its being determined that the Landdrost should
have a farm in the warm Bokkeveld whither he could
send his cattle and sheep from the cold Bokkeveld
during the winter, Fischer fixed upon a place which
was Kruger's, and which he had purchased for 2,000
Rds., as the one to be resumed.
He conveyed his desire to Kruger, and the latter
told him he was a poor man and hoped the money
would be repaid him. The Landdrost said "Not a
stiver." He then sent his cattle to the place and
ordered Kruger to leave it. The latter rode off to .
Lord Charles and represented his case. Lord Charles
gave him a letter to Fischer desiring him to continue
Kruger in the occupancy of the place. The Landdrost
told him he might go ; he had written to his Lordship
what would satisfy him on the point. Kruger returned
to Cape Town, and it appeared to him that his Lord-
ship was ill disposed towards him both from his manner
and observations. Kruger succeeded however in
satisfying him that he was not in error, upon which
an order was sent to the Landdrost on th.e subject.
Lord C. desired Kruger to take the order, but he
begged permission to decline it saying that Fischer was
 ANDREW SMITH DIARY 9S
so 111gty on the former occasion, and abused him so
dreadfully, that he was afraid to carry another letter.
He was then directed to repair to his farm and the
letter would be forwarded by post. Soon afterwards
the cattle, etc., were taken away, and h~ remained to
occupy the farm without further interruption.
During this day we crossed several flats thickly
covered by grass partly dried up and partly green,
the latter young grass. Several farmers are residing
with their flocks in this neighbourhood, and amongst
others Hans Opperman. This was the t'erson who
informed upon Conrad Buys, though J..n the first
instance he was one of the persons (two besides
Buys) who had agreed to leave the Colony together.
This man in consequence is not trusted by the rest
of the farmers, and 1s consequently living alone with
his family. We crossed several beds of streams, few
of them containing any water except a little which
had collected since the late rains ; nowhere running.
Where we halted last night there was only a little
rain water. The weather very fine during the day,
with light winds from the N.W. and S.E. Last night
a very heavy dew.
I OCTOBER (WEDNESDAY).

Travelled 71 hours. The hills rather higher and

the flats smaller. Grass similar to what has been
already observed but much greener, particularly in
places where the old grass has been burnt. The loose
oxen have not been seen since starting. On reaching
Lecu 1 River found 6 farmers, the oldest resident
Rens burg.
1 .Lccuw Rivicr. Sec map.
H
 A.NDR.EW SMITH DIAllY

Saric Boy,1 a Coranna Chief, passed about 18 days

ago with about 30 men all armed with guns and
mounted. He stated that they were on their way
to visit at Lynx kraal. None have yet returned and
it is surmised that they were intending to join White-
foot• in a plundering expedition against Masalakat:zie.
One of the farmers got a little gunpowder from
Saurle,• and he asked in return some lead. The
farmer said he told him he had none for himself and
consequently still less for him. He gave him a sheep
for his people at his request. Before we reached the
halting place we had to cross the Leeu River, the bed
of which was composed of sandstone. Here the
fore axle of the cart broke in two. We dined at l past
u. midnight.
~ OCTOBER. {THURDSAY).

In order to have the broken axle replaced by a

new one it was necessary to halt for the day. The
farmers state that the soil in this direction is well
adapted for the growing of corn and the grass is
healthy for cattle and sheep. Irrigation is necessary
for the former. Some of them say that a great number
of springs exist but many are weak, which they think
might be improved by giving a more free exit to the
water. As they are at present a great many of them
are too weak to enable a farmer with a moderate
quantity of cattle a.nd sheep to exist duting the
whole year.
1 Sarcl Booi, a Koran& marauder.
1 Piet Witvoet, another notorious Korana marauder. See Scow. NaliH
RMll of SOllllJ A/rita, Loadon, 1880, P• 511.
I Sard.
 ANDREW SMITH DIAR.T 97
Three kraals of Bushmen exist in this neighbour-
hood, one with 6 men, one with five, and one with
four. They take up their abode a little way from the
water in order that they may not deter the game
from approaching it to drink, which is the time they
endeavour to kill them.
The interior Caffers make a sheep or goat kraal,
and after it has been used for some time they dig
a deep hole in the middle and diminish the enclosure
so as nearly to reach the margin of the hole. On the
narrow ledge they place attached to the fence a
goat, and when the wolf arrives he runs round and
round the fence which is made high except at the
place where the goat stands. Upon observing the
animal he makes a spring over, and at the moment,
the goat springs back ; he then falls into the hole
and from that cannot extricate himself. They have
another method of getting wolves. They dig a
deep ditch round a tree and kindle a fire in it upon
which they throw dung until it becomes nearly
filled with hot ashes ; they then suspend some flesh
to the tree, and upon his springing at it he falls down
on the hot ashes and burns the soles of his feet,
nevertheless he perseveres to get the meat, and each
attempt is followed by a fresh burn till at last they
get so raw that he cannot get to any distance and
next day is quite unable to walk. They then search
for him and easily kill him.
When the Caffers go out hunting they carry with
them poles surrounded with black ostrich feathers,
and tliese they place at certain distances around the
the game, gradually diminishing the zone of the
circle by removing them toward a centre. When
 ANDUW SMITH :DIAR.Y

pretty close they leave a place more open than

the rest of the circle, and that always in the course
of the wind, knowing that the game will endeavour
to escape by running against the wind. In this
direction the hunters take up their position and kill
the animals as they pass. They pursue a similar method
in hunting lions. When once they have wounded
him he flies at the nearest beacon and finding it
not to be a man runs to the next and so on, whilst
the hunters are employed in endeavouring to kill
him.
The Bushmen in hunting erect piles of stones to
represent men in a circle round game, and then
place themselves to windward, where they leave a
greater space open than elsewhere and shoot them
as they run through.

3 OCTOBER (PR.IDAY).

About 4f .m. left Seven Fonteyn, Leeu River, with

the view o passing the drifts of the Caledon a little
way to the south, but from all the people being
unacquainted with the road we proceeded too far
up the river and consequently had to retrace our
course for a considerable distance, thereby reaching
the proper position for passing the river when it was
neaily dark. The immediate descent to the river is
rather steep and very sandy. The ascent on the north
side has two steep banks at both of which the oxen
gave up, and it was therefore necessary to have the
wagons pulled up by two spans. Halted for the night
on the flats above the banks. The Caledon contains
an abundant supply of fine water, and the edges of
 ANDREW SMITH DIARY 99
the bed of the river are lined with willow trees and
reeds.
Guinea fowl abundant ; few other birds.

4 OCTOBER (SATURDAY).

Started at s a.m. and took a wrong road which

rendered it necessary to make a considerable circuit
to arrive at the proper one.
Rensburg came to us to say that his people whom
he had sent for salt to the pan were turned away by
Corannas and Bushmen, who stated that they had
orders from the Commission to do so. They said
they had been told that they ought to gather the
salt and sell it amongst the people. This was a false
statement. I recollect when speaking about the salt
saying at Phillipolis " Why did the people not collect
salt and sell it ; that if they had any I should have
purchased some from them." No other conversation
on the subject.
We halted to breakfast about i past nine on the
Elands Berg Spruit which empties itself into the
Caledon immediately above the drift. The water
was contained in pools; the edges of the river
thickly lined with reeds. The appearance of the
country this day is very different to what it has
hitherto been, the entire face of the fiats and even
of many of the hills a :fine green firm new grass which
has sprun~ up since the old grass has been burnt.
The burrung of the grass [was done] by the Caffers
and Coranna.s. Wood rather scarce again. We
were prevented starting in the afternoon in conse-
quence of some light rain and the appearance of the
100 ANDREW SMITH DIARY

approach of a heavy storm, which however ended in

thunder and lightening. The wind was from the
north and blew strong in the forenoon; it abated
as the thunder began, and rose again towards evening,
:first from the west and then from the south. Rains
generally occur with northerly winds, sometimes
with south-east. Before the few drops of rain fell,
thermometer in my wagon was 90; soon after, So.
S OCTOBER (SUNDAY).

At I I o'clock prayers were read by Mr. Bell to

the members of the party.
A curious circumstance illustrative of the early
system was menti-0ned in the course of this day.
A farmer possessed a farm with a small portion of
Govt. ground attached to it. Another man wished
to have it and he applied for it through Van de.r
Graff. It having been sold along with the place,
the Landdrost recommended that the place should
be requested under another name, whicli being done
it was granted to the applicant. The lawful owner,
with the assistance of Col. Graham, brought the
subject under the consideration of Lord Caledon,
then the Governor, who immediately ordered it to
be restored.
When Caffers get wounded by the teeth of a lion
or other animal another Caffer makes the various
wounds into one, draws it close with a piece of
grass, and leaves it to unite.
6 OCTOBER (MONDAY).

Started at t past six and rode three hours to a

small stream, where we outspanned after passing a
 .ANDREW SMITH DIARY 10%

small post called Rensburg's Poort. The wind was

blowing from the north and there fell occasionally
light rains.
We started again at 4 p.m. and advanced as far
as the principal branch of the little stream which
falls into the Caledon close to the N. of where we
halted. In this branch found abundance of fine
water though there was no running stream, only a
series of holes some of considerable length and very
deep. Herc are very extensive flats ancf it is one of
the finest situations I have yet seen for farms. Reeds
along the margins of the water ; a few willow trees
also here and there. Rained heavily during the whole
night and the wind continued to blow from the north.
But little game, attributed to the grass having been
all burnt. The young grass more advanced here
than where we crossed the Caledon, the flats and
hills everywhere exhibiting fine dark green surfaces.
Gnus and quaggas occasionally seen on the fonner.

7 OCTOBER (TUESDAY).

Wind still from the north, though varying a

little to the east. Sky obscured by dense clouds
but no rain. Very cold. The rain which fell during
the night has all sunk into the soil. [During] the last
rain much stood in pools between the grass, arising
from the soil having been so hardened by the late
droughts that it was almost impervious to the moisture
but now is open and spongy. At 10 minutes after
one started and travelled 3i hours. Abundance of
young grass. Cose to where we halted we found a
quagga which Kruger had shot. After outspanning,
the party went off with a view of surrounding a
10.2 ANDREW SMITH DIARY

herd of gnus. Many shots were fired and four of

the number were severely wounded. Oose to the
spot where one was wounded, Kruger heard a lion
howl. Three other lions were heard by others of
the party in different. directions. Wind towards
evening N.E.; sky still clouded.

8 OCTOBER (WEDNESDAY).

Sky still clouded ; weather cool. Started from the

outspan place at 1 o minutes past one, and after
travelling about ten hours discovered a large male
lion feeding upon a gnu close to the road. Several
people advanced towards him, and Hastwell, who
was walking in the direction of the lion, proceeded
on, nevertheless every attempt was made to stop
him. He fancied we were desiring him to take care
and not go far thinking gnus were in front. When
about 20 yards from the lion which he did not see,
having probably been looking over him, the animal
started up, and ran towards him. He turned and
ran off but soon again turned round, and as he turned
round the lion also turned and retreated. He took
a direction up a trifling ridge and then went over it.
A party of about 1 s men followed him and after
pursuing him from one or two other places and
wounding him at each, he turned on the party and
caught Syme, pulled him down, bit him severely
in both thighs and lay upon him, in which situation
Mr. Burrow shot him through the head. This lion
seemed more inclined to run away than venture an
attack. Soon after he was killed two others were
seen close by. After we halted just about dusk two
males roared close to our encampment and for some
 ANDREW SMITH DIAR.T 103

time afterwards the dogs barked very much and run

off from the wagon, [but having] reached a certain
distance they turned suddenly back as if much afraid.
Syme immediately afterwards complained of great
stiffness in both legs but yet little pain. Towards
evening after his wounds were dressed, and he
placed in bed, he complained of a throbbing sen·
sation in various parts of the limbs. Had the lower
jaw not been broken there exists no doubt but that
he would have killed the man.

9 OCTOBER. (THURSDAY).

Rain fell very heavy durin~ the night. Lions were

heard roaring from time to ttme, and in the morning
a male was seen winding his course up an ascent
close to our encampment. About midday it cleared
up and we started, but were forced to advance but
a little distance from a recurrence of the rain. A
quagga was shot and also a gnu during our progress ;
the gnu contained a young one. The traces of lions
were seen in various directions. Several herds of
blesboks we-re also seen mixed with herds of quaggas,
also here and there a few springboks.
A Caffcr belonging to Massus1 joined us at our
tncampment in the morning and engaged himself
to accompany us as far as the school. The kraal
where he resided was a little to the south-east of
our station. When the quagga was killed the Caffer
cut off some of the flesh and placed it in water to
preserve it from animals.
a Moehnb.
 .ANDREW SMITH DIARY

IO OCTOBER (FRIDAY).

Travelled 5 hours. Several Caffers belonging to

Massus visited us in the morning a.nd gave some
imperfect accounts of the country. They requested
to accompany us for some way under hopes of some
more quaggas being shot. Syme goes on doing well ;
little pain in the limbs, only stiffness.
Grass still young and very green. The appearance
of the country altered very mu,ch during the latter
part of the day's journey. Instead of the numerous
ridges and small hills, which had been rendered so
familiar to us during our progress from Graaff
Reynet hither, we had now a country like many parts
of the Colony, formed of coarse granular sandstone
and a vegetation similar to that which occurs in
those places. A species of A/btKa with woolly stalks
and leaves was seen for the first time this day. The
flower yellow.
I I OCTOBER (SATURDAY).

Travelled 3 hours but made little actual advance

towards our destination in consequence of having
had to make such circuits to be able to advance.
Country abundantly covered with young grass ;
very little wood. Little game seen to-day ; the traces
of several lions along our track. Passed, though at
a. distance, several Caffer gardens.

12 OCTOBER (SUNDAY).

After prayers having been read by Mr. Bell, we

started for the Mission Institution of Mr. Cassilis
 ANDREW SMITH DIARY 105

and Arbouset,1 which we had just ascertained to be

about 4 hours distant. This was the first time we
had travelled on Sunday, and to it we were forced
from the want of wood. We reached the station about
4 p.m. and were received in the most friendly way
by Mr. Cassilis who exerted himself in every possible
way to serve us.
I 3 OCTOBER (MONDAY).

Early this morning the son of Moschush,1 who is

chief at the missionary station, dispatched a messenger
to his father to acquaint him with our arrival and
with our anxiety to see him. The man went on horse-
back and informed the young chief that we wished
he would permit more of his people to remain by
the wagons after dusk, which he readily consented
to. I was struck with the circumstance of scarcely
any one begging beyond a pinch of snuff, being so
contrary to what I had hitherto seen amongst the
frontier Caffers. They brought milk for sale and
appeared to wish for it either tobacco or buttons.
Beads are not much in demand. They ask high
payments for Caffer corn.
I4 OCTOBER (TUESDAY).

Late in the day Moschush arrived accompanied

by about 4 men on horseback with guns. They
approached the station at a rapid pace and when
tliey reached within about 1 oo yards of the encamp-
ment the men alighted from their horses and fired a
• 1Mmi!A: the 1tadon of Mews. Eugene Casalis and Thomaa Arbaauct.
of the Paris BTIDgdkal Soclety. founded in tBH.
a Moaheah.
106 ANDREW SMITH DIARY

salute which we returned twofold. The chief ap-

proached slowly, dressed in European clothing, and
showed much pleasure in meeting us. At fust he
was a little reserved but gradually became more
open and communicative as I made him acquainted
with our ideas and the ideas of the Govt. He ex-
p,ressed himself delighted with our visit and said
'To-night my heart is full." He dined with us, and
his demeanour at table was most respectable ; he
kept constantly handing portions of food to a few
of his retainers who were seated round the door of
the tent. He complimented us upon our taste in
cooking, and said the English food was very good.
He appeared rather awkward in European clothing
and carried his arms very stiff. During the evening
he amused us with a history of the misfortunes of
himself and people.
I 5 OCTOBER (WEDNESDAY).

Early in the morning Moschush sent us a present

of a young ox which was immediately slaughtered
and the bowels, etc., together with a hind leg, were
sent up to Moschush's house. He soon arrived with
us to breakfast, appeared extremely delighted to be
so entertained, ancf told us many anecdotes of old
times. After the meal was finished I went with him
to Mr. Cassilis' house, and had much conversation
with him regarding the state and condition of his
people. He afterwards told Mr. Cassilis that he never
had been so happy before. All the reserve was now
laid aside, and he opened his heart most fully and
said he would accompany us throughout his country,
and also to the Mantatees and even beyond them.
 .ANDREW SMITH DIARY 107

16 OCTOBER (THURSDAY).
Moschush with many of his people and some of
our party went out to hunt elands but killed none.
About 4 o'clock p.m. Danster 1 with his brother and
about 8 or ten Caffers arrived from Kousberg,1 also
two of the wives of ...... 8 , a brother of .Moschush
who resides near to the Orange River, and who has
been lately severely wounded by a commando of
farmers who pursued him and his people that had
stolen some cattle and horses from the Colony.
This is rather an evil disposed person, and Moschush,
who had once before killed all his men and made him
a prisoner on his mountain for about three years,
declares that the moment he is recovered he will
force him to repair to the Missionary Institution so that
he can have hiin under his eye. He will never permit
him to live more at a distance from him. The farmers
killed many of the men who were with him, and
Moschush when he heard it said it was right. He
requested Mr. Cassilis to write to the farmer whose
cattle had been stolen, to inform him of his sorrow
for the circumstance, and that he would take care to
prevent such occurrences in future. Danster is an
old man, and judging from his appearance one would
say a good man. As far as I can learn there is nothing
to be particularly urged against him with the excep-
tion of the murder of Kenecht Windvogel • and his
people when he was entertaining them at his kraal
by special invitation. This in the eyes of civilised
men was certainly a most heinous crime, but when
1 David Danster, a Korana captain.
1 Kocsbcrg.
• No name given.
' Knecht Wmdvogcl, a Bushman chief, who gave his name to the Wlnd-
vogdbcrg in the Queenstown district.
to8 ANDUW SMITH DIAllY

it is considered that such methods of overcoming

enemies are common amongst barbarous tribes and
that the more expert they are in practising treachety
the more are they respected, it appears less odious.
It is true they had concluded a peace previous to the
perpetration of the deed, but it was well known that
Windvogel was intent upon entrapping him even
though related by a friendly alliance. They said
Windvogel was a very notorious character and one of
the greatest instigators to evil that existed in the
district. He had carried off cattle twice or thrice
from Danster and killed many of his people. This
said Danster was in the Roggeveld with some Caffers
in 1797 at which time he was seen by Kruger and he
then lived in the district of Commandant Nel and
bore a very good character. On one occasion a farmer
complained of his people having stolen some sheep
from him. The Landd!ost Van der Graff summoned
him to Tulbagh and when he arrived there he had
him arrested and sent to Cape Town, from whence
he was dispatched by sea to Algoa Bay and from thence
to Cafferland. He however soon escaped from the
latter and returned back to the nortliern parts of
the Colony. About 1814 [he] moved away to the
country of the Griquas and latterly to Moschush's
country. It is stated that he has about 200 or 300
Caffers under him and Iives as an independent chief
upon the territory of Moschush. The latter does not
appear quite satisfied with the arrangement, but
does not speak out fully his mind.
17 OCTOBER (FRIDAY).
Yesterday and the previous day were very hot and
sultry, particularly toward the aftemoon. Yesterday
 ANDJ.lE'W SMITH DIAllT

at three p.m. the thermometer in my wagon stood

at 92. Thunderclouds were in the north and light-
ening was vivid. A little thunder towards dusk with
some rain. The wind was southerly but turned round
about 10 o'clock to north. Sky thickly obscured by
dark clouds, and now and then a little rain. Wind
rather strong. In the course of the night the clouds
cleared off, and fine weather in the morning. Heat
between I I and 3 p.m. very oppressive.
Danster left for Moschush's place ; the latter
remained with us. In the evening one of Moschush's
men came and reported that a hunting party of
Bastards from Mr. Archbald's station 1 had been
to the Vaal River to shoot elands and sea cows,
and that they had been surrounded by Masalactzie's
commando and all destroyed except one man who
escaped. It is not probable that they were on a
hunting expedition ; more likely they were on a
plundering party, and only declared it as a hunting
party in order to prevent it being known to their
prejudice by the Govt. which they know discounten-
ances such excursions. These people when they go
to plunder generally prefer the tune when the weather
is warm, as with horses they can in one day drive
cattle farther than men on foot can follow. For
hunting they prefer the time when they can preserve
the mea~ which is not in the heat of summer.
The axle tree of the cart again broken. Kruger
made to-day a pair of bellows with two bags in order
to repair it. They burn charcoal in a hole and while
burning throw water upon it ; it is then fit for a
forge fire.
1 The station of Rev. James Archbell. of the Wesleyao Miaaioaaiy
Society. at Thaba'nchu.
IIO .ANDREW SMITH DIAR.Y

18 OCTOBER. (SATUllDAY).

Moschush left this afternoon for his mountain in

order to get ready to receive us. He stated his anxiety
to send messages with us to Masalactzie to make
peace with him. He stated that he thought Masa-
lactzic could easily destroy us were he so inclined.
He said we must never permit more than two or
three of his people to come at once to our wagons ;
that if we permitted many they might in an instant
destroy us all, and said that we must not slccr. in the
night as that was the time he was most likely to
attack us if he intended us harm.
Mr. Cassilis mentioned several reasons why he
did not think Moschush had killed Scidcnsticher.1
He said that he has repeatedly spoken with Moschush
on the subject, and the latter was particularly desirous
that no such stigma should attach to him. Moschush
stated that he sent S. in charge of several of his
people as far as the Mantatces, and that from them he
in.tended to go to Dingan. It is natural that he will
endeavour in every way to clear himself even had
he committed the act, and therefore his statements
arc not of so much importance as other circumstances.
Mr. S. had several pistols which Moschush admired
very much, but Mr. C. has never seen one in Moschush's
possession. Now one of the first requests Moschush
made from us was pistols and his greatest desire
seemed to be to possess one or two. Had he caused
S. to be murdered he certainly would have got

• Sddcostichcr, or Seidcstcckcr, was a traveller who was killcd by the

Baraputsa while searching for mines. Sec Methuen, H. H., Ufa ill IM
Willkrnu1, London, 1848 (.znd Ed.), p. ios, footnote.
 ANDREW SMITH DIAR.T III

possession of those articles. The Bushman boy who

was with S. is now living with Moschush, which he
accounts for in this way. The boy was tired, being
very young, and he left him behind. Others state
that S. sent the boy to hunt elands and that he lost
his master and returned to Moschush with the horse
he was riding which is also with Moschush. Mr.
Martin 1 arrived at Moschush's at the time Seiden-
sticher was there. His horse had a few days before
been killed by lions when he was sleeping in the
fields, he himself having had a very narrow escape.
He wished Seidensticher to lend him a horse to go
to Dingan, but the latter was not inclined. He re-
mained 8 days with Moschush and then went on to
go to the Zoolas. Some time ago Mr. Cassilis heard
that Seydensticher was Jet alive and he told it to
Moschush. He appeare overjoyed to hear it as he
said he knew the white people suspected him of
having murdered him. Many of his people were
also delighted with the information. The umbrella
which Moschush has was presented to him, as he
states, by Martin, and the cap of Seidensticher was
also given to him. Seidensticher had an ornamented
jacket. That has never been seen in the possession
of Moschush. These two persons were with him
only a few months before he showed such great
anxiety to have missionaries with him.
Mr. Cassilis had service in the Dutch language in
the evening. Three of our people were permitted
i A traveller, supposed to have been drowned in the Gariep. The Ex-
pedition had been specially instructed to find out what had actually happened
to him, and reported that he had reached " the country of the Eastcm
Zoolahs," where he had bccnf,,ut to death. Sec AnmlaJ &port of thl Sotdb
Ajrimtl I.itm1ry 111111 SdmJifo tulilldi011, Cape Town, 183s, p. ,. Sec also
Steedman, A., Wtlllikri11g1 111111 AJ11111hlm in "11 lt1krior of St111thml Afrit11,
London, 1B3s 1 Vol. ii, p. 161,
l
I 11 .ANDREW SMITH DIARY

to go, but the rest were directed to remain in the

camp, as it was dark.
The carpenter has been employed to-day in pre-
paring some spare disselbooms and axletrees.
19 OCTOBER (SUNDAY).

The Revd. Mr. Cassilis performed service at the

wagons in the Dutch language.
10 OCTOBER (MONDAY).

It having been discovered that the axletree of the

cart was again broken, Kruger was busily employed
during the forenoon in repairing it.
About one we left Morija on the road to Moschush ;
grass everywhere abundant. Towards sunset halted
close to a small rivulet which was running and went
to view a spot where a well contested battle was
fought between Maluana's people and some of the
Basutas. Numerous skulls ana bones of different
parts were observed abundantly strewed over the
field. The Basuta were upon a high hill, and Maluana's
people who could not ascend to them from the
number of stones they rolled down endeavoured
to starve them and to a certain extent they succeeded.
There is a constant supply of water in this stream and
the Caffers from the station feed their cattle in this
direction during the winter. One man or two go
out with a party of cattle and after a time he is relieved
by others, all living during the time amongst the
rocks ..
.21 OCTOBER (TUESDAY).

Started at daylight and travelled 3! hours ; road

very circuitous in consequence of the number of
 ANDREW SMITH DIARY llJ
ravines and kloofs which everywhere cut the flats.
We halted and breakfasted dose to a small stream
which supplied us with good water. Here three
Bastards from Mr. Archbald reached us with a letter
from Mr. A. containing offers of assistance and an
expression of desire to know when we intended visiting
his station. I answered his kind letter, but did not
dispatch it, the men being inclined to stop with us
the night at Moschush's. In the afternoon started
again and reached the base of Moschush's mountain .
.U OCTOBER (WEDNESDAY).

Moroi, a chief of the Borolong, who resides at

Tabanchu, visited our encampment early this morning
in company with Moschush, and informed us that
he intended to accompany us to the station. In the
course of the morning a great number of Basutus
flocked about our wagons and all begged violently
for tobacco.
In the forenoon I ascended the mountain accom-
panied by the Revd. Mr. Cassilis. There are a number
of footpaths by which the top may be reached, but
the one we followed was that by which the cattle
go u~. Even it was very difficult to travel and rather
circuitous ; a very few men with large stones could
effectively prevent an enemy from ascending. Long
previous to their occupying this hill they had been
anxious to find such a place for their abode, and when
they were so harassed by the Mantatces the body of
the people moved to the south to their present
situation. During their residence on this mountain
they have been several times attacked by the Corannas
:ind once by Masalacatzie. On the occasion of one
of the attacks of the Co.rannas, after they had sue-
u4 ANDREW SMITH DIAR.Y

ceeded in carrying off a considerable quantity of

cattle they returned and proposed an end to war.
Moschush, desirous of it, sent them a present of a
quantity of cattle which were driven by four men.
The Corannas attacked the men, killed two, and the
other two by flight effected their escape. The cattle
they kept. Many of the Basutu exhibit marks of
wounds which were inflicted by musket balls during
these attacks. It is difficult to form anything like an
estimate of the population on the hill, but it may be
reckoned to approach nearly to z,ooo souls. With
the exception of the portion which resides in his own
village the rest are thinly distributed either about
the edges of the summit or upon the sides of the hill
where they act as guards to the more important
position. From the number of wives the chief possesses
a considerable number of th~ buildings at head-
quarters belong to him. His houses are not regularly
placed in one part of the village but are scattered
tn different directions. In one place he has several
together connected with each other by reed fences,
in which small openings of a somewhat conical
form exist for permitting of the inhabitant passing
from one to the other. His own house, that is the
house in which he keeps his principal property, is
placed most distant from the entrance and is ap-
proached by various alleys. In it he also keeps his
young wives, and near it the old steward who has
charge of them and of his property sleeps. The
people's occupations during the day are very trifling ;
softening skins or making karosses form a con-
siderable portion of the labour of the men, and the
women are either cooking, grinding corn or loitering
about in the outhouses:
 ANDREW SMITH DIAllT

Mr. Cassilis sent Adam Krotz to Kenecht 1 to

endeavour to dissuade him from his evil practices.
Adam told him he had long lived at the Kuruman
and acquired much knowledge regarding God and
other matters, and it was a pity that he should now
lose sight of all and live such a sinful life ; that he
ought to give up wandering and repair to the mis-
sionary station at Morija and live and finish his days
in peace. He got in a passion and told Adam he
ought not to speak to him in that way ; that once he
had believed what the missionary told him, but now
he believed nothing of it. He said he would now
permit God to have done with him or abandon him:.
Adam then endeavoured to work upon his feelings ;
he called his attention to his wife who was blind and
said he ought to consider her and his children.
Kenecht then told him it was enough and went off.
Adam reminded him that he would have a heavy
account to render to the Almighty at the day of judg-
ment for giving his children such an education.
He said he would continue to shoot Caffers and get
cattle as long as he could. Adam Krotz had all his
cattle carried off by the Corannas. He with s other
men followed them and went to their kraal where
Adam insisted upon the injustice of the act. They
gave the cattle up, but soon after he and his party
started the Corannas took their position in front of
them and attem£:d to retake them. Some firing
took place. A shot one of them and the rest
B.ed, which enabled him to convey home the cattle.
Soon afterwards he went on a visit to the Colony.
The Corannas during his absence plundered him of
everything he possessed.
1 Sec footnote 4 on page 107.
116 .ANDREW SMITH DI.ARY

13 OCTOBER (THURSDAY).

This day I delivered the present from His Excellency

to Moshesh. He had called a considerable number of
his people together to witness its being given to
him, and after explaining to him the object of the
present and the friendly connection which it was
intended to establish, he appeared much affected.
His feelings were very acute and his heart very full,
so much so that he was unable to raise his eyes when
I placed the chain with the medal round his neck.
After the ceremony Moshesh rose and addressed his
people with great feeling and occasionally with great
vehemence. He told them that they must never
more say that the missionaries had brought nothing
to their land; they had brought this (taking hold of
the medal) ; they had made the situation of the people
known to the white men, and in that way had called
forth the friendship and sympathies of the latter.
He told them they must now change their ways of
thinking and acting, and must lay aside all their old
notions and prejuaices and do as the white men
recommended them. He said they could now see
what people we. were ; we we~e present ~o spe~k for
ourselves, and if now they did not believe hlm he
would get down and they would hear us. His father,
a very old man, then got upon his legs and in a
moderately strong tone of voice adverted to the
annoyance they had experienced through the Coran-
nas, and related the circumstance of their having
killed some of the people who had been sent with a
present of cattle to them as an indication of peace.
He after that remarked that he perfectly agreed with
all that Moshesh had said. He appeared much pleased
 ANDREW SMITH DIARY II7
with the compliment that had been paid his son, and
smiled when it was stated that Moshesh was born
of Mochasanie.1 The mountain upon which Moshesh
resides is called Thaba Bosego,2 pronounced Bosco,
or night mountain.
The Bushman Kruger considers as the quickest
person he knows to learn the Dutch language ;
says the bastard of a white man by a Caffer woman is
extremely ugly, also by a Coranna woman.

14 OCTOBER (FRIDAY).

Received a letter from Mr. Archbald and returned

an answer the same day informing him of the probable
time when we would reach the residence of Carolus,1
a chief of the Bastards belonging to the station of
Mr. Edwards.' Heat very oppressive during the middle
of the day, and a strong southerly wind which entirely
subsided towards eight p.m.
Bought two young oxen from Moshesh for 8 Rds.
per head. Showed him some articles of clothing
which he appeared very anxious to possess. His
father Moch.asanie lives on the same mountain, and
has a small village under his superintendence. He
never troubles himself with the affairs of the nation ;
all he thinks about is superintending the making of
karosses.
To-day Moshesh showed us the way in which
Masalacatzie's men surrounded a kraal or party they
1 Mokhachane.
• Tbaba Boaiu, or " Mountain of Darkness."
• Carolut Butje, a halfbreed captain who lived with hi1 party at PlathertJ,•
Thell, G. M., Histqry of SOlllb Afritt1 (18,4-1Bs4), London, 1888, VoL hi,
P· ' ''7·
Llahumc, the station of Rev. John Edwards, of the Wealcyan Miasioa-
lrJ Society. Sec map.
118 .ANDREW SMITH DI.A.:R.Y

wish to destroy, and gave us much good advice

regarding the manner in which we ought to conduct
ourselves when amongst his people. He stated
that we must always be extremely suspicious and
ought never to fancy them our decided friends ;
that they were very cunning and would wait till we
were off our guard, and as soon as they discovered
that they would fall upon us ; that often they con-
cealed hasscgays under their karosses in order to
appear unarmed till a suitable opportunity offered.
He said his heart shivered for us ; that if we went to
the V aal River and approached him in that direction
it was impossible to say what might be the conse-
quences. Such was the direction in which the
plundering parties were accustomed to approach him,
and therefore he had now always parties wandering
about in that direction, and they might fall upon us
and destroy the whole party. He strongly urged the
necessity of turning back at the Mantatees and com-
municating with Masalacatzie by the way of Kuruman.
He said now that lately a party had fallen upon some
wagons belonging to the Bastards. They would
think if they saw our wagons that we were a portion
of the same and would doubtless attack us also. He
over and over again urged the necessity of caution.

z5 OCTOBER (SATURDAY).

About 8 a.m. left Moshesh's residence to proceed

to the station of the Revd. Mr. Edwards. By agree-
ment we were to receive a supply of Caffer com at
a kraal on the road but on our arrival near it we
found that there was no possibility of approaching
it with the wagons. We were therefore forced to
 ANDREW SMITH DIARY Il9
halt and July was despatched to inform the principal
of the kraal that it would be necessary for him to
send the corn to the wagons, which he promised to
do early next morning.
The country thickly covered with grass and the
surface of that part which we travelled along much
broken by valleys, etc. When the grass is green as
at present it is difficult to see to any distance during
the night. When the grass is withered or dty objects
can be seen at a much greater distance.
2.6 OCTOBER (SUNDAY).

Five small sacks of corn were this morning brought

to the wagons by Caffers which we were informed
was all that remained at the kraal after Moroi had
been served with about five muids. I am disposed
to think that Moshesh must have been aware of
there being a lack of the article at the kraal and that
he had no wish to supply us so abundantly as he
promised. When at the school he stated his intention
of proceeding with us as far as the Mantatees and also
of sending messengers with us to Masalacatzie.
When we started I reminded him of his statements,
and he said he could not go at present. It appeared to
me that he made those statements at first in order to
ingratiate himself and get as much as possible from
us.
Mr. Bell read prayers about u o'clock, and a man
arrived about the same time from Mr. Archbald to
inform us that Mr. Jenkins1 would perform divine
service at the residence of Carolus under a hope that
we would have arrived there.
1 Thomas Jenkins of the Wesleyan Missionary Society.
uo .ANDREW SMITH DI.ARY

z.7 OCTOBER (MONDAY).

Started from the outspan place at ten a.m. and

proceeded to the drift of the Caledon River which we
passed with tolerable ease. Road moderately good.
Last night some extraordinary noises were heard
both by myself and the sentries about one a.m. which
rendered it desirable to waken the whole party with
a view to ascertain from what they arose. Parties were
sent out in various directions but from the darkness
it was impossible to discover anything. The whole
of the men were kept under arms till the moon arose,
when the light was sufficient to warrant the care of
the camp being entrusted again to the watch. At
daylight no appearance of anything extraordinary
could be discovered. In the course of the afternoon
many Caffers were seen moving from the north to
the south of the river in various directions, and their
gardens were seen in abundance towards the bases
of the hills on both sides of us. Hired a wagon from
the Bastards residing near the drift to go to Moshesh
in order to get corn which we could not procure at
the kraal he fixed for us to receive it. July the inter-
preter returned with the wagon and took with him
seven muid sacks.
This day Martinus De Toit was tried for neglect of
duty in various ways and was sentenced to extra
guards. In early days on the northern boundary
of the Colony the Bushmen were very troublesome
and daring ; the cattle were scarcely in the kraals
before they began to steal. They used to take up
their position in front of the huts whilst others drove
off the cattle and they endeavoured in various ways
to deceive by giving utterance to the most extra-
 ANDREW SMITH DIARY 121

ordinary cries so that it might be thought that some

animal or bird was causing the dogs to bark. When
the people ventured out to ascertain what might
be causing the uproar, they used to shoot them
with their poisoneo arrows. The farmers and their
servants were at last forced to dig deep holes around
their kraals and conceal themselves therein and from
thence shoot them. As soon as this system was
practised and known the Bushmen became more
cautious ; at first five, six and seven used to be
killed in the course of a night.
z8 OCTOBER (TUESDAY).
Started at daylight and travelled nearly due north
by compass three hours and a half and then halted
being in doubts about the road. No water. About
two hours after started again and proceeded nearly
N.E. by N. for two hours to a small stream called
•••••• 1 which rises in the hills which had run
parallel with our road during the day to the west
of us ; its course nearly E.S.E. till it empties itself
into the Caledon. No running stream at present,
only many small but deep pools encircled with reeds.
Many lions were heard roaring last night close to
this place, and about dusk the barking of jackals
was heard in the course of the brook. Last night was
very cold ; a little before sunrise the thermometer
in my wagon indicated 34°. During the day a cold
wind blew from the west of N .W.
Heard that a Boer named [name deleted] 1 had
left the Colony for several years and taken up his
1 No name given. It was possibly Mopcri Spruit.
• Cocnraad dcr Buis, Theal, G. M., Hi1Jqry of So111h Afrlto (1l54-18s4)1
London, 1888, Vol. iv, pp. 97-98.
12.2 ANDREW SMITH DIARY

residence on this side of the boundary, and was

living with a bastard Mosambique woman and with
a bastard Bushman woman. He is said to have had
s1 children by black women and several by his
Dutch wife. Those of the latter are very respectable
individuals and reside within the Colony. It is said
that he has often attempted to induce them to join
him but they have invariably refused. When spoken
to regarding the line of life he is leading he gives no
answer.
After we outspanned a Bushboy came to the wagons
searching for oxen belonging to a Bastard which he
said had strayed. Close to there is a strong party of
Bastards who some time ago bought the country
where they reside from Moshesh. There is reason to
believe that generally speaking they are well-con-
ducted persons and are rather opulent than otherwise.
Abundance of gtass, much of it in seed ; oxen be-
ginning to improve in condition and horses getting
fat. This morning we discovered that the kabies 1
purchased from the females at Moshesh's station were
abounding with vermin, which shows the state of
filth in which they live. Several Bushmen are living
in this neighbourhood under Moshesh. Elands
abound but are with difficulty killed for their taking
so immediately to the mountains.

~9 OCTOBER (WEDNESDAY).

After ascending a hill near which we had encamped,

[and] measured its height by the barometer and sextant,
we started for the mission station of Mr. Edwards
and reached it about 3 p.m. We were received a little
1 Mfllwbi, skin petticoat of Tswana women.
 ANDREW SMITH DIARY

distance from the station 1 in the most friendly way

by the Revds. Archbald and Edwards, and after
encamping proceeded with the two gentlemen named
to the residence of the latter, a newly built house
neatly fitted up inside and exhibiting that comfort
and regularity which forms so marked a character
of the habitations of all the missionaries of that
Society. Spent the remainder of the day and part of
the evening with them.
30 OCTOBER (THURSDAY).

Our party dined with Mr. Edwards. In the early

part of the day I had a conversation with Peter,1
the chief of the station, relative to the attack which
was made upon him and the rest of the party who
were hunting upon the Vaal River by the commando
of Masalacatzie. He said his people were in two
divisions, cutting up the B.esh of the seacows which
they had killed, and that about daylight the Caffers
came upon them. They attacked one party first and
then proceeded to the other. All the Bastards B.ed;
a few shots were fired and some were shot which
appeared to intimidate the rest. If the whole party
had been together and had firmly defended itself he
is of opinion that the Caffers would have B.ed. Thinks
there were about z.,ooo Caffers. When they commenced
the attack they exclaimed something about Masala-
catzie. Seven wagons fell into the hands of the Catfers
together with the oxen, some guns and horses.
1 Liahuane, the station of the Wesleyan Missionary Society.
I Peter Davids, who sua:eeded Barend Barends as captain of a clan or
Gri~, and who was persuaded by the Wc1lcyan missionaries to settle
nt Liahuanc in December, t8H. Tbcal, G. M., Hism, of South Afri'•
(18,4-18,4), London, 1888, Vol. iii, p. 'a7.
 ANDREW SMITH DIARY

He said his intention was to start a commando

against Masalacatzie in order to endeavour to get
the children which had been taken, and also if possible
the property. Two of the wagons belonged to Peter.
A day after they reached the river two men belonging
to the party rode out to the north of the river to
ascertain if elephants were to be found, and in the
course of the journey they came upon the track of
about what they supposed 600 or 700 cattle and of
women and children. All appeared to have been
moving very quickly. The attack was made at day-
light the following morning.
3I OCTOBER (FRIDAY).

Very warm during the day, the thermometer in

the shade 91. Clouds began to rise in the north to-
wards the afternoon, and about dusk rain began to
fall which continued during the early part of the
night accompanied by thunder and lightening.

I NOVEMBER (SATURDAY).

Clouds still very abundant with occasional showers ;

prevented thereby from visiting Thabanchou according
to my intention.
2. NOVEMBER (SUNDAY).

Divine service at 10 a.m. Revd. Mr. Archbald

preached. Most of our party attended. Congregation
considerable, composed of Bastards, Corannas and
Basutu assembled within an enclosure formed of
reeds and open above except towards the one end
 A.~DREW SMITH DIARY us
where the pulpit is erected. There a few mats are
extended across forming an imperfect covering. In
the afternoon Mr. Alison 1 preached and the sermon
was repeated by means of an interpreter, sentence by
sentence, for the benefit of the Caffers present. A
prayer was then delivered by the same in the Cisuta 1
language. In the evening English service for the
missionaries' families and the portion of our party
who did not understand Dutch.
3 NOVEMBER (MONDAY).

The repairs required by the wagons not being com~

pleted, we were unable to start as was intended for
the Mantatees. A messenger arrived from the Caledon
and stated that a trader named Whitle 8 was there
and had letters for me but he would not deliver them
to any person save myself.
During last night the minimum of thermometer
was ;8. Air very dry, and one would have been
inclined to set the cofd as greater.
4 NOVEMBER (TUESDAY).

Thermometer fell to ; s during the night of the Jrd.

Cold so great even after sunrise that the oxen though
turned out of the kraal would not eat; about half
an hour after sunrise [thermometer] stood at 40.
At three left ....•. ' and travelled 1! hours, and
halted near the extremity of a hill at the base of which
1 Rev. James Alliaon, of the Weslryan l\fisaionary Society.
1 Sesotho.
1 A trader who in 18p. explored the country along the upper Limpopo.
Theal, G. M., Hlrtory of SDI/lb Afrira (11,4-1BJ4), London, 1888• Vol. iv,
p. 9'. Hit name was Whittle.
• No aamc siven. It waa Lilhuane.
u6 ANDREW SMITH DIARY

there is a small spring, the water bubbling up in

numerous large globules. Temperature of air at
6 p.m. 7.z!, and of the water of the spring 58. On
the north of the road an irregular ridge of flat sand-
stone hills continued from the school ; on the left
some detached hills. Low grounds over which we
travelled broken and intersected by trifling valleys
along which wind the courses of temporary streams.
Mt. Broadban 1 was stationed amongst some Bu-
chuannas, and when he was absent in the colony he
left his house in charge of the chief Sibonella.1 During
this time his house was broken of.en and most of
the articles distributed over the kraa . This was heard
at Griqua Town and 1\-fr. Melville 3 and the missionary
Mr. Edwards wished Waterboer with his people
to accompany them thither to settle the matter.
Waterboer was averse to it; he said Sibonella was
not under him and if he were inclined to punish him
he was unable. With persuasion he was at last in-
duced to go, nevertheless his people were all prepared
to go on a hunt. When they arrived at the place and
made inquiries it was not possible to incriminate
Sibonella. Waterboer then asked Mr. Melville and
Mr. Edwards " Who were now to pay the people ? "
Both agreed that Sibonella should pay, ·and when
that was told the latter he agreed to it. Waterboer
demanded 400 head of cattle, which were given.

i Rev. Samuel Broadbent, of the Wesleyan Missionary Sodctf.

• Sifonclo, chief of the Basclc-ka, a Rolong tribe. At the time of this
episode he was established at Jl,fakua~i, or Maquassi, near Wolmaranstad
in the T.ranavaal. The whole story will be found in Broadbcnt's A NarraliH
of 1111 firJt 111trol/Ntitm of Christianity amo11g.rl lhl BaralDflg Trib1 of Bil~,
SDlllb .Aft*o, London, IB6s, P· us, ,, .flf.
1 Govcmmcnt Resident at Gri~towq.
 ANDREW SMITH DIARY

j NOVEMBER {WEDNESDAY).

Started at daybreak and travelled about three

hours till we reached the residence of Mr. Jenkins,
a Coranna station.1 Here we heard that a messenger
had arrived last night from the chief of the Mantatees
to inform Mr. Jenkins and the people of his station
that several parties of men were crossing from the
Vaal River towards the mountains, and that it was
supposed they were Masalacatzie's people. The
chief suggested that they should send out spies from
the station to discover who they were. Information
was immediately dispatched to ...... ,1 and the
messengers passed us on the road but gave us no
information regarding the report. It is surprising
how close they keep such news; they regard it as
chief's words, and never will give more information
than they are ordered to do. When we were investi-
gating the probabilities of the reports a man arrived
with what he said was news regarding Chaka. He
was not immediately heard in consequence of the
interpreter being absent at the moment. On the
arrival of the latter the man was questioned, but he
then said he knew nothing, which appeared to arise
from a man of the Mantatees being present. He had
before stated that the people who had taken Peter
David's wagons belonged to Dingan, and that they
had been on a plundering excursion to Masalacatzie
and had carried olf a great number of cattle and some
women. Mr. Jenkins thinks that the Mantatees are
much stronger than the Basutu and that the Basutu
chief is afraid of them. It is generally understood that
1 Umpubni. See map.
1 No name given.
K
118 ANDREW SMITH DIA.RY

Masalacatzie said the people who were on the com-

mando of Barend Barends were not children. He
attributed his success to having taken them by surprise
during the night.
A man of the Ky Kora 1 states that that tribe in very
early days, about 40 or fifty years ago, lived low on
the Orange River, and that they gradually ascended
step by step till they took up their residence on the
Hart River. Other tribes followed them. The country,
when they reached that, was inhabited by Caffers
as is known by the appearance of the habitations and
the names of the places.
6 NOVEMBER (THURSDAY).

Mr. Allison thinks it is best to deny any request

made by a chief in the most positive terms and at
once if it be not the intention of the individual to
whom it is made to grant it. H excuses or reasons
are urged for not complying with the demand, it
is immediately implied that a fear exists to disoblige.
No farther information was received last night nor
this morning regarding the tribe said to be advancing,
nor does there appear any anxiety on the part of the
Corannas concerning them. It is easy to see how
tribes are overcome ; there is no system for general
defence. The chief has comparatively no power ;
all are inclined to think and each desirous of adopting
his own views. The principal object on all such
occasions is to secure the means of flight, and how
to fly is what most engages their consideration when
any kind of danger threatens them. Any person with
a numerous fariiily connection can set the chief at
i The Kci I Korana, or Great Korma..
 ANDR.EW SMITH DIAR.T

defiance. The chiefs on that account are disinclined

to annoy their subjects or treat them with severity,
because when they happen to do so it is immediately
given out that persons so treated are going on a
visit and that is only to say they are going off from
the tribe. When Moshesh was asked if certain people
belonged to him he replied " Cannot you see tlicy
send me food ? ", implying that no person would
send him food who did not fear him and stand subject
to him. It is $enerally believed that most of the Basutu
who are liVUlg with farmers in the Colony, will,
when they have occasion to leave in consequence
of their cattle getting too numerous, form separate
parties and live apart from their chiefs, at least so
long as the system exists of the chief being the only
holder of property. Many of the Basutu arc thus
living at Verhuell 1 and will probably continue there,
as they can there hold their own property. Tribes
will thus form with different views and may possibly
in time subdue all the others who practise less liberal
policy.
7 NOVEMBER (PRIDAY).

Delivered to Ciconiale • the present sent for him

by the Governor with which he appeared much
delighted. He attempted to speak to his people who
were assembled to the number of some hundreds,
but did not give utterance to more than a few words
a The odginal name of the French mission station later changed co
Bethulie.
I SckonyeJa, chief of the nokwa tribe. He WIS the IOQ of Mantatiai
leader of the horde called Mantati1. At this time Sekonyela wu living not
far from Ficksburg. See map. Thea1. G. M., Hislflry of SOI/lb Aft*• (1154·
11,4), London, 1881, Vol. ill, pp. 510-,n.
 I30 ANDREW SMITH DIARY

which amounted to informing them that it was all

true what I had said and tha.t they must hear. In
the evening fired three rockets which astonished and
frightened them very much. Ciconiale when asked
what he thought of them said " What shall I say ?
I have nothing in me."

8 NOVEMBER (SATUlU>AT).

Started from Ciconiale's about IO a.m. and travelled

without halting to the Caledon River about I 2 miles
to the eastward. Our course lay amongst the hills
on the tops of most of which were observed more or
fewer Caffer houses, and as we advanced amongst
them, men, women and children kept pouring down
their sides to see us. Heavy rain to the south with
thunder and lightening. After dark, sky obscured
with clouds so that the moon furnished but little
light, which induced me, contrary to my usual practice,
to place the full number of men on watch at IO p.m.
When the moon went under nearly half the party were
called up to be in readiness should any attack be
made upon us. A farther precaution was taken on
the approach of daylight in consequence of the state-
ments of Ciconiale already adverte<l to, and the entire
of the members of the expedition were awakened
and kept on the alert till full daylight. During the
entire of the middle and latter part of the night it
rained very heavily.

9 NOVEMBER (SUNDAY).

During nearly the whole of the day heavy rain.

Towards evening it appeared as if a change was
 ANDREW SMITH DIARY I 3I

about to take place, but our hopes were blasted by

the recurrence of thunder and lightening followed
by a thickening of the clouds and very heavy rain.
A fire was observed under a small hill to the north-
east of our encampment to which three men together
with the interpreter were dispatched in order to
ascertain what persons were there. The latter crept
near to it to discover what number of persons there
were, and as soon as he ascertained that he crept in
the same way back again to the party who were in
waiting for him after which they advanced to the
men who were sitting round it, three in number.
They were persons on a journey who had been stopt
by the rain according to their own account. This
proceeding was adopted with several views ; to
ascertain in the first place who or what they actually
were, to overhear their conversation lest thev should
have any improper intentions and, thirdly, to make
it be supposed that during the night p_artics were
moving about us to observe if anything hostile
should be in progress.
Cobus Congo 1 the old. During the commando
of Col. Graham it was discovered that he and some
of his principal men had secreted themselves in a
thickly wooded ravine near to the mouth of the
Sunday's River. A party consisting of about 1'0
men were dispatched during the night to surround
them. Before daybreak they reached their retreat
and about the dawn of day they made a fire and as-
sembled round it. When in this situation they fired
upon them and killed Congo, his young son and 6
1 Khungwa, 1 Xhosa chief. Theal, G. ?t{., Hislol'J of Soulh A/rlttl (1'54-
1Bs4), Loildon, 1888, Vol. ill, p. JJB.
IJZ ANDREW SMITH DIAl.T

of his principal men. The first had eleven wounds

from balls. Rained till! past 12 p.m.
IO NOVEMBER {MONDAY).

Captain Edie's gun was discharged by accident and

the ball went through the hand and broke the meta-
carpal bones of the fore and ring fingers.
In the course of the night the oxen startled and
burst all out of the kraal ; many continued to bellow
for some time after and the horses snorted greatly.
The cause of their fears having been supposed to be
a lion, a blue light was kindled and the vicinity of
the encampment was examined but nothing was
discovered.
The Caledon, which yesterday was filling slowly,
rose .rapidly during the early part of the day, but
continued nearly stationary dunng the afternoon.
Towards evening ascended a h4?h hill not far
distant from our encampment and ttom thence had
a view of the surroundiiig country to a considerable
distance. In one direction saw the sources of the
Caledon River which lie in the light mountain range
to the south and at a distance of about 20 miles E.
by south.
During years of scarcity there is a species of grass
growing near the bases of the hills which the Caffers
collect, thresh, clean, grind and eat. They eat also
of four species of plants belonging to the AJclepedia,
which grow in this vicinity.
Instance of Caffer suspicion and cunning. Ciconiale
gave us two men as guides to conduct us to the
sources of the Caledon. I questioned them concerning
 .ANDllEW SMITH DI.AllY

the road to Chaka and Masalacatzie as also .regarding

the river far to the eastward. They, it appeared,
fancied from these inquiries that my intention was
to proceed thither. Mte.r leaving my wagon they
had a long consultation and kept their notion to
themselves. When breakfast time arrived they pre-
tended they did not receive a sufficiency of meat and
demanded more. I told them they ~ot the same as
the others and that nothing additional would be
given to them. They replied they would then go
home, that they had corn there as well as here. I
told them they might please themselves, but that if
they did I would make Ciconiale acquainted with
the proceeding. Both set off and went on the road
homewards nearly half a mile when they sat down.
About i an hour afterwards one returned to the
wagons and said they thought from the questions
that we intended going to Chaka and therefore
had determined upon leaving us. I told them they
might do as they thought proper ; that I had no
intention of visiting Chaka. He went back to the
other and told the tale, and after sitting about an
hour both stood up and returned in perfect good
humour.
I I NOVEMBER (TUESDAY).

In consequence of finding it impossible to proceed

farther to the eastward unless by returning through
the Caledon, which according to the statement of
the Caffers we would not be able to accomplish
for many days, I determined ueon beginning our
journey backwards towards Phillipolis, and at !
past 11 started with a view of proceeding towards
 ANDREW SMITH DIARY

the mountain range in order to reach it to the east-

ward of Moshesh. Our progress was very slow and
many difficulties were experienced in consequence
of the number and depth of the ruts formed by the
mountain torrents. Every flat had at least one of
those, and several two or even three. Several of the
flats we crossed over were covered with fine rich
long grass which resembled meadow ground in
Europe and might easily have been mown. The
species of grass are very numerous. Passed a small
kraal belonging to Ciconiale's uncle, and towards
the afternoon we were stopt by a river which has its
source in the mountain range and forced to halt in
order to prepare a road by which to pass it.
12 NOVEMBER. (WEDNESDAY).

The two Caffer guides supplied us by Ciconiale

left this morning appearing extremely anxious to get
home for the purpose, they stated, of clearing their
corn land. With considerable labour the banks of
the Kootzes River 1 were cut away to admit the
wagons to pass. To the ford where we crossed the
river we gave the name of " Expedition " ford or
drift. Travelled about four hours but made little
actual [progress]' in consequence of the circuitous
route we were necessitated to pursue in order to
pass the watercourses and sandstone terraces which
form together with the hills the greater portion of
the country. Almost all the ledges have precipitous
sides which render the ascent and descent of them
difficult and in most places impracticable. Forced
i Hlotsc River. See map.
• The original word it wtdccipbenble.
 .ANDREW SMITH DIARY

to halt earlier than was intended in order to form a

road by which to pass a small river. Heat during the
day very considerable ; after midday a cool breeze
from the N.W. Evenings and nights still very cold.
I 3 NOVEMBER (THURSDAY).

Saw several elands and hartebeast ; caught a

young one of the latter. The elands generally iri.habit
the low grounds, but immediately fly to the low hills
when disturbed and run with great facility amongst
the rocks. Early in the morning dense clouds began
to obscure the sky, and about 2. p.m. lightening was
discovered towards the westward. Soon after sunset
thunder was heard, and about dusk it began to rain
heavily. Thermometer 38. Many deserted Caffer
kraals observed during this day's journey, and at
most of them great numbers of human bones. The
same have been observed for the last two or three
days about the gates of kraals, many bones actually
within the cattle kraal walls. No inhabitant seen
either yesterday or to-day. Road rather circuitous on
account of the low hills which it was necessary in
most instances to wind round, and also from the ruts
occasioned by the summer rains.
Few lizards occur in this part of the country.
Abundance of toads and frogs. The Otis coleii not
uncommon. Before halting saw three baboons (Cyno-
cephalus 11rsin11.1). Orebies 1 occasionally met with.
Kruger says the hartebeast cannot be reared in
captivity : it either gets blind when about 8 months
old or deranged. The steenbok he also says cannot
be kept in confinement.
1 Orlbi.
 ANDREW SMITH DIARY

14 NOVEMBER (FRIDAY).

Road in some places very bad and required here

and there considerable labour to render it passable
for the wagons. During the early part of the day
light clouds. Towards the afternoon they became
more dense and about 4 o'clock began a heavy rain
which towards evening alternated with hail showers.
Several small herds of elands were seen. Grass very
luxuriant, particularly on the banks of the Putehazan 1
River, upon which we encamped for the night. Near
one of the herds of elands in which were one or two
calves a small troup of wild dogs were loitering about
and immediately they discovered us they fled.
The eland always runs against the wind and from
that peculiarity he is easily shot. Hunters take
advantage of that circumstance and dispose the
best shots at a considerable distance to windward of
where the herd may be feeding. That being accom-
plished two light weights are placed upon horse-
back and made to approach them to leeward and
gallop after them full speed. By the time they reach
the shooter they are almost exhausted and then
when they come in contact with fresh horses they
seldom escape far. With anything like a fair start a
hunter with a tolerable horse will get alongside of
a male eland before he has run more than 1,000
yards. When approached closely he tosses his head
about, and even will run at the hunter. A female
after being exhausted may readily be turned and
driven in any direction the hunters may desire.
From that circumstance they often drive them to
1 Phutiataiana River. See map.
 .ANDUW SMITH DIARY

the very spot where the wagons are situated before

they kill them.
The V11/t111" f11/v11J occurs here, many being seen
to-day ; also the Aquila vtdtmina, jackalsvogel and
abundance of the Mi/vus para.ritic11.r. On the flats
saw many of the Hir1111d0 ambrosiaca and Hirundo
capensis. Along the river Hif'llndo with dull white
belly. Obtained here the fust specimen of toad
with red thighs behind. Corv11.r scap11/atus common,
also a/bico//is [and] Otis co/eii.
Saw several reetboks and the common rhecbok;
also hartebeasts on the flats. Winds very variable
and rain fell when those blew from different directions.
Elands leap a very great distance and will also spring
from high precipices. They swim well, readily take
the water, and pass through it with great rapidity.
I' NOVEMBER (SATURDAY).

Journeyed with difficulty to the base of the mountain

chain. Numerous little streams descending from the
mountain valleys and running very deep, and bounded
on both sides by sandstone precipices. In the valleys
through which they meandered luxuriant grass. The
river where we halted was from the rains of yesterday
flooded and rather difficult to pass. The last night was
fine and also to-day. Oouds appeared towards the
horizon about 3 hours before sunset. Very cold
towards evening.
Saw several Caffer cranes ; few birds except larks
and crows. Here and there Saxico/a foremivota
and the Saxico/a with white head and shoulders.
Some small birds amongst the grass. Shot none.
Swallows also common (Hinmdo •••••• ).i
i Specific name not given.
 ANDREW SMITH DI.ARY

I6 NOVEMBER (SONDAY).

Several Caffers visited us early in the morning and

brought milk with them for sale. I told them I
could not purchase it to-day being Sunday, but if they
felt inclined to leave it and return tomorrow I would
pay them. One said he wanted four buttons. I told
him to leave it and I would settle the bargain to-
morrow. He did so. This is the first instance I have
witnessed of a Caffer leaving his property without
either payment or an agreement. I asked him if he
knew what day it was, and that a man ought not to
buy, or sell or labour on this day. He was one of
Moshesh's .People and therefore must know, they
having a missionary with them. .
Intending to leave the wagons about the middle
of the night in order to ascend the mountain range,
I placed the mountain barometer in the tent in order
to observe its working and ascertain if all was right.
A violent and sudden ~st of wind blew it over and
broke the tube before 1t was possible to get hold of
it.
Mr. Bell read prayers to the assembled party about
I I a.m. Fine weather during the day. Thermometer,
I j oight,1 42.

I 7 NOVEMBER {MONDAY).

Upon attempting to fix another tube in the mountain

barometer I found the wood so warped that the
cistern glass could not be made to press so close upon
the wooden circle near the lower extremity of the
tube as to enclose the mercury. Various plans were
1 I.e. on the night of the J Jth.
 ANDREW SMITH DIARY

practised to bring the wood to its proper form but

without effect. Determined to ascend the mountains
without it and wait our arrival at Phillipolis in order
to make another attempt, there being here even no
good mercury.
Towards the afternoon heavy clouds appeared to
the north; violent wind succeeded their appearance
and a little rain. After the latter sky got clear again,
but towards 9 p.m. dark clouds again began to rise
in the west and thunder was heard in that direction
and lightening seen there as well as to the east.
The clouds gradually obscured the sky. Our intention
is to start if the weather permits tomorrow morning
at daylight for the mountains. Thermometer, 16
night, 48.
l 8 NOVEMBER (TUESDAY).

At daylight 8 of our party started to ascend the

mountain range and by ! past twelve reached one of
the highest points where water boiled at 190 of Fah.
The ascent was accomplished with great difficulty
and amazing caution. Got back to the wagons about
eleven o'clock p.m.
19 NOVEMBER (WEDNESDAY).

Remained, in consequence of its being desirable to

have representations of several lizards, frogs and
snakes procured on the mountains previous to death.
Heavy thunder in the afternoon with some rain.
Jan Bloom, the father of the celebrated Bastard,
who has lately been so troublesome to Umsalagas,
was a native of Cape Town, a white man. He was the
140 ANDREW SMITH DIARY

first who carried on plundering expeditions towards

the Hart River and who succeeded in destroying and
plundering almost all ·the Caffers in that direction.
He was assisted by Corannas and from that time the
latter have established themselves in that direction.
Previously to that time no Corannas lived there.

2.0 NOVEMBER (THURSDAY).

Very cloudy during early part of day. Started about

10 a.m. and travelled about north-west, sometimes
inclining to west, over ledges of sandstone and
through valleys between ledges. Crossed several
streamlets [which] consisted principally of a series of
holes each filled with water and lined more or less
with reeds. About 12. a small herd of hartebeasts
appeared to the left at which several shots were fired
without effect. Shortly after this a small herd of
elands were discovered in the same direction which
induced us to halt about l past one with the intention
of bunting them. As soon as the wagons were placed,
seven mounted men started for the herd and got to
leeward of it without being discovered. They then
commenced the pursuit which ended in the death of
two, a male and a female. Several others were
wounded, but not so severely as to cause them to die.
Some of the party in the course of their route fell in
with [a] wagon belonging to some Bastards who had
also killed a male and a female. The male they shot
in the River Putehazan. During the early part of the
day several light showers ; afternoon clear, cloudy
again during the night. We halted under a small hill
which we named Elandskop from the circumstance
of having killed two elands near to it. Mr. Kruger
 .ANDREW SMITH DI.AllY 141

who shot the male drove him for a considerable

distance in the direction of the wagons before he
attempted to shoot him. Grass very luxuriant.

1 I NOVEMBER (PRID.AY).

The people em.Ployed during the early part of the

morning in cutting the flesh of the elands into
thin slices which were placed UJ.>On the rocks to dry.
This is the method employed i.n the Colony to pre-
serve the flesh obtained on huntin~ expeditions. They
rarely use salt, or if they do it 1s only a very thin
sprinkling.
At 1 p.m. started and in about two hours reached
the Putehazan, whose channel we found very deep
and banks precipitous. Were employed till dusk in
getting the wagons across. During the day rather
cloudy, and rain was seen to fall at different times,
both to the north and south of our position. Evening
and night fine.
Habannas 1 Caffers during the commando of 1811
lay on the south side of the Zuurberg about Slaght
Boom.• When Col. Graham sent a message to that
chief that he must remove from the country, he re-
turned for answer that they must go and get all the
axes from the Cape and cut down the bush. and then
he would go. The bearer of this message to Habanna
was accompanied by 100 men. Stockensttoom • was
very mucli disfigured by the Caffers when they
murdered him, the flesh cut open in various places.
i Habam, a Xhosa petty chief. 'l'bcal, G. M., HulorJ of Soldb AftW
(1s, ..-1Bs4), London, 1888, Vol. ill, P· IS9·
• Slaaboom, about fifty-five miles due north of Pon Bli2abeth.
• .Anarica Stockenatrom, Landdrost of Giaaff-Rcinct. Tbeal. G. M.,
Hil-, of SOlllh Afritt1 (1s, ..-I8j.f), London. 1888, Vol. ill, p. ,, ••
 ANDREW SMITH DIARY

Z.Z. NOVEMBER (SATURDAY).

During the early part of the day the majority of the

party were actively enga~ed in preserving the flesh
of the elands and in preparing the skins for specimens.
About z. o'clock left the Putehazan and proceeded
towards the Caledon River which we reached about
dusk nearly south of the Bastard station. During the
middle of the day heat very oppressive. Before
dusk as well as after it much lightening and thunder
with occasional heavy showers ; some clouds seen.
During this day three of the party reported themselves
sick ; their ailings I attributed in great measure to
their having indulged too freely in the use of the
marrow of the elands. Insects now beginning to
appear in numbers. Botha shot a £inc species of
Zonllf'llS 1 amongst the rocks.

z.3 NOVEMBER (SUNDAY).

Mr. Bell read prayers at 1 z. ; day exceedingly warm.

Three Caffers belonging to the Basutu visited us ;
have no cattle, live entirely on corn and roots. Three
of the party were taken sick yesterday ; complained
of pain in stomach and fullness of belly. I felt the
same symptoms and two or three others similarly
affected to-day. Suppose it to arise from eating rather
freely of the eland flesh. Night fine, clear and warm ;
rather chilly towards sunrise.
2.4 NOVEMBER (MONDAY).

At daylight rode with Kruger to search for a ford

where we could pass the Caledon. Discovered one
i A variety or lizard.
 ANDREW SMITH DIARY

about 2. miles above our station, and found that a

wagon had passed at this place. The heat was so great
~uring the early part of the day that we could not
proceed till afternoon. Thermometer in my wagon
stood at 9, at I I a.m.
Got a new species of MNscicapa, very nearly allied
to Muscicapa grisea, shot on a bush growing upon the
banks of the Caledon.
Masalacatzie arranges the movements of his com-
mandoes so that they shall make their attacks just as
the new moon appears. He made an attack upon
Ciconiale at daylight, but finding all prepared and that
he could make no impression, the commando pro-
ceeded towards Moshesh and arrived at his hill aoout
I I a.m. Ciconiale having dispatched messengers to
inform the Basutu of the commando, all was there
also in readiness, so that the result was there equally
unfavourable. The commando remained surrounding
a portion of the hill for three days, and then retired
almost exhausted from hunger. They usually are sent
out when the corn is nearly ripe so that they may be
certain of some provision on the road.
A Caffer, upon witnessing the effects of a sun
glass, immediately asked the price of it with a view to
buying it. The iron scoop which all the Caffers wear
serves the double purpose of scraping off the perspira-
tion and cleansing [the] nostrils from the unmense
loads of snuff witli which they stuff them.
Kroger and self rode in front of the wagons, and
when we reached the Kole River 1 I started to visit
Edwards, and left K. to see all arranged with the
, Phol'a Drift @).
L
 ANDREW SMITH DIARY

wagons. Various reports had reached members of

the Institution regarding the fate of their wagons,
but nothing certain appears to be known regarding
them. The intention 1s still to assemble a party to
revenge the act.
Masalacatzie generally, when a commando attacks
him, leaves a portion of cattle in a situation easily to
be taken, and then permits them to be carried off
to a little distance before he makes his attack to re-
take them. He calculates that in this way the plun-
derers will be at ease and that he will be able to take
them by surprise and readily overcome them. The
plan has generally succeeded. In most cases, when
nothing happens the first night after they get posses-
sion of the cattle, they calculate that nothing is likely
to happen and few or no precautions arc observed.
Such extraordinary want of foresight is strikingly
characteristic of the Hottentots, Bastards, Corannas,
etc., and from the steps which Masalacatzie pursues
there is reason to believe that he is master of their
characters. The persons who know these people well
fear greatly the consequences of an united commando.
They think that with few exceptions the sole object
will be plunder and that anything like punishing the
aggressor will be little if at all considered ; every
party will be anxious to secure cattle and when they
procure them they will fly with them and leave those
who will to fight the battle. No union prevails ; no
feeling for the general good exists. Individual
interests are alone the consideration, and all other
points are made perfectly subservient to that one.
On Wednesday last Ciconiale visited Mr. Jenkins'
station and told him that he was very much pleased

\
 ANDREW SMITH DI.ARY

by our visit ; that we had told him he must now live

in peace and that his people must conduct themselves
well, and that then the great people would look upon
them. It appears from what I have heard that the
people of that chief were very much alarmed at our
approach and that actually many of them had left the
hill for more distant parts. Their idea was that we
only wished to get them into a suitable position and
then shoot all of them. They seemed to infer that
from seeing our people always with their firearms
about them. In this way the scarcity of people which
I remarked on the hill when I visited it is to be ac-
counted for. All the women, it is said, shut themselves
up in their huts and few men were seen. How different
it was upon Moshesh's hill; the entire population
appeared and crowds followed us in every direction.

2.J NOVEMBER (TUESDAY).

Left Lishuanie about 12. noon and was accompanied

as far as the wagons by Mr. Edwards and Mr. Jenkins.
On arrival I found Moshesh there who had arrived
[on] the evening of the 14 in order to arrange about
the corn which he had formerly promised us and
which we had not received. He wished us to send a
wagon for it, but this I declined being anxious to
avoid loss of time.
Grass in abundance but less water than when we
passed the river on our way to the eastward. Towards
evening arrived at a small stream, the water in holes ;
and under a hill near to it found a pretty large Caffer
kraal belonging to the Basutu, th.e people without
cattle but with a small flock of goats. Many of them
 ANDllEW SMITH DI.AllY

were a.bsent to collect the seed of a species of gra.Ss

which grows irt abundance towards the mountain
range and which, their ~orn being finished, is almost
the only food they have to subsist upon. Though in
this deplorable state they showed no appearance of
want, nor did they seem at all discontented or low.
They brought us goats' milk and in exchange were
especially anxious for tobacco.
26 NOVEMBER (WEDNPSDAY}.

During the early part of the day occupied in ob-

taining information relative to the Basutu manners
and customs,1 and also concerning the wars that had
occurred in this part of the country.
At 1 p.m. started, and travelled about four hours
towards Thaba Unchu. 1 As the trap formed the
greater portion of the surface the grass appeared much
shorter than when the sandstone was more abundant.
Towards dusk reached the source of a small stream,
the waters of which fiow to the northward. Herc,
upon the top of a low stony range, we found another
Basutu kraal, the last in this direction. The people
had neither cattle nor goats, living entirely upon the
productions of the ground. Gardens along the edge
of the streams. Indian corn, melons and Caffer corn
growing.
17 NOVEMBER (THURSDAY).

_ About i past 11 a.m. started for Thaba Chua, which

the wagons reached about 7 p.m. Wildebeast in large
i Recorded in • sepuate notebook.
• T'bsba'richu, • 1tation of the WaleJan Miaaioouy SoaietJ.
 ANDREW SMITH DIARY 147
herds scattered over the wide flat across which we
travelled, also some springboks and blesboks. Several
young wildebeast, but trifling in proportion to the
number of females. Kruger says most of the young
are seen at two different periods, Augt. and Sept.,
and December and Jany.
Before reaching the missionary station Terry met
with an accident from his gun which nearly destroyed
the second finger of the left hand. The gun was loaded
with small shot, all of which passed through the
palm of the hand between the metacarpal bones of
the fore and second finger. On arrival at the station
we were saluted by several rounds of musketry. We
were most hospitably received by Mr. and Mrs. Arch-
bald and passed the evening with them.
28 NOVEMBER (PRIDAY).

Engaged during most of the day in acquiring in-

formation regarding the early history of the Baralong,1
and also in ascertaining from the principal men of the
place who the people regarded as the principal chief.
They decided that Morocco 1 was at present their king
but that he reigned on behalf of Silili who was a minor
and who was by the law entitled to be the chief
whenever Morocco considered him fit to manage the
affairs of the community.
29 NOVEMBER (SATURDAY).

Morocco called all the male inhabitants of the

station together to witness the present of the Governor
• Recorded in a SCP8?te notebook.
I Moroko, SOD or Sifoncla, and chief or the Base1cka. a Rolong tribe.
..His stronghold was the Thaba'ncbu mountain.
 ANDREW SMITH DIARY

bestowed upon him. After I had stated to [the] meeting

the nature of the present and the views of the Governor
in granting it, and made them aware of what course
they must pursue in order to ensure a continuance of
the friendship of the Colonial Government, I strongly
urged upon them the necessity of observing a due
regard to the laws of God in order to enjoy the support
and countenance of the white people. I endeavoured
to convince them of the necessity of a firm alliance
with the other Caffer tribes in the neighbourhood in
order to act in concert in defending themselves
against their enemies. When I had finished, Morocco
addressed the people and told them that they must now
listen. They had not heard to-day from him how they
ought to behave, but from the white people. Their
own hearts must tell them that all was truth what I
had stated. They were the children of the white
people and the latter were the only people who did
not make commandoes or try to injure them ; on the
contrary, they were the people who were always
striving to do good for them. After he had done,
many others followed. The principal of them show-
ered forth volumes of complaints against the Corannas.
They stated that the latter never would remain at
peace ; that they were people that would not live
without animal food, and that therefore whenever
their cattle were few they would think of nothing
but plunder. One man commented upon the system
that was pursued by the Colonial Government of
constantly sending messages to the Corannas of a
threatening character without ever going beyond that.
He observed it made them actually worse than they
would otherwise be ; it made them think that the
Great Captain was afraid to go beyond words. He
 ANDREW SMITH DIARY 149
stated that Pict Whitefoot had actually declared that
to be the case, and had said that the white men were
like crows and aasvogels ; that though many were
together the approach. of one man caused them all
to By.
Jan Bloom fled from Cape Town about 1786 and
retreated to Namaqualand ; he there got associated
with the Corannas towards the Orange River and
emigrated with them to the country about K.laarwater.
From thence he carried out plundering parties against
the Caffers to the north and east of him, and com-
pletely impoverished all the neighbouring tribes. On
one occasion a man named Andries Van Zyl joined
him and out of their booty the latter carried a very
large herd of cattle into the Colony. That circumstance
reached the Governor and the consequence was Van
Zyl was banished from the Colony for a period of
seven years, and his son who was also implicated in
the matter was confined three years on Robben island.
The said Bloom had eight or ten Coranna wives and
several of his children are still living, amongst which
may be instanced the notorious Jan Bloom, also
Andries Bloom, William Bloom, etc.

30 NOVEMBER (SUNDAY).

At ten o'clock the Baralongs assembled in the

church and divine service commenced about ! after
ten. About 600 composed the congregation. Mr.
Archbald spoke in Dutch, and it was interpreted
by a Caffer. Many of the persons present appeared to
listen with much attention. At .i p.m. service was
begun in the Dutch language, and about .ioo Bastards
and Corannas were in church. In the evening,
ljO ANDREW SMITH DIARY

service was performed again in several parts of the

town by natives. Mr. Sefton had a congregation of
Corannas and Mr. Archbald held service in his
own dwelling house for the benefit of the English
of our party.
l DECEMBER {MONDAY).

I was employed during most of the day in obtaining

information regarding the Caffers and Corannas.
Some of the people employed in repairing the tang
of one of the wagons. In the evening the chief
Morocco presented a slaughter cow.
Daurheip,1 a Coranna Bushman, arrived at the
station with several of his people. In the evening
had a conversation with Haip, a Coranna, who
resides on the station, and is acting as chief in Lynx
Kraal. The proper chief is a very indolent, imctivc
man, and encourages the other to take the charge of
the people. He appears extremely desirous that
peace should exist, and says all his people are of the
like mind. He says his party is stronger than any
other in the country, and that the name of the tribe
which formerly resided on the Orange River below
Griquatown is Aramanice. 1 This horde has resided
near to Mr. Archbald for the last six years and he
informs me that he has never during that time known
them to commit any acts of aggression upon the
neighbouring tribes. Haip, he says, however, on one
occasion resided with Mulutsani,1 and he in company
t Possibly Gm. I har1ip, chief of the Links Karma. See Maingard, L. P.,
lo Bllllhl Shi/Jiu, Johannesburg, 19~1, Vol. vl, No. 1, p. IJJ and pp. IJl-9·
1 //.,,_//ail, the Links, or Left-hand, tribe of Korana.
1 Molituae, chief of a clan of Bataung. Theal, G. M., Hi1twy 1/ So11tb
Afrito (1a,..-11,.), London, lBBB, Vol. iii, p. JD4· •
 ANDREW SMITH DIARY

with the latter took some cattle from Buchuanas on

the Vaal River. Old Barend was annoyed with him
and called Jan Captain 1 to aid in punishif!g him.
Many cattle were taken from him, all of which
Captain got. After this, when he was visiting Captain,
the people used to say he was no man. He saw them
milking his cows. At last, enraged, they attacked
Captain and carried off a number of cattle. He does
not know the Corannas belonging to Whitefoot ;
that is to say, to what tribe they belong. He says
little against Whitefoot but says his people are bad.
The only tribes that he knows to oe troublesome
are those of Whitefoot and Bloom. The former he
does not suppose to have more than ioo people,
men, women and children. Says it is very injurious to
the peace of this country that the Colonial Govt.
should send so many threatening messages and never
follow any of them up by punishment, every succes-
sive message only gives greater boldness. Cannot
believe that the evil disposed parties have any idea
that they can stand against the Colonial power, but
thinks they believe that the Governor will never take
trouble to send a commando to punish them so long
as they do not directly interfere with Colonial subjects.
Says the total destruction of these evil disposed hordes
might be easily accomplished should it be found
necessary. Since Captain Armstrong 11 visited White-
foot a part of his people have been on a marauding
expedition against Mateebe 3 and have taken some of
his cattle. Several of the Corannas here are averse
' Jan Taaibosch, or Hanto, chief of the Taaibosch or Kci I Konna.
Sec Maingard, op. di., pp. IJ7•1J8.
1 In char~e of the military ~ at Fort Adelaide.
1 Mothib1, chief of a section of the 'I'lapiog. At this time be was 8Cttlcd
at the junction of the Hart and Vaal Riven.
IS 1 ANDREW SMITH DIARY

to journeying [with] Peter David in a commando.

They say Masalacatzie is not a Caffer that will play
with them ; he always takes them by surprise, and
from their remarks they do not appear to have any
idea of guarding against such surprises. Jan Captain's
Corannas are called the Ky Kora and also in early
days lived down the Orange River. Haip, who is
about 26 years of age, was bom on the Vaal River
about 3 days above Plateberg near Moss. 1 The second
day after our arrival at Thabanchu, Haip presented
us with a goat. Pict Hoyman, one of the Berghaneers,1
and son of one of their chiefs, resides at the station.
Character pretty good, yet is not very much trusted.
All the Bastards in this direction say if they had
farms within the Colonial boundary they would
prefer living there to their present situation because
they [would] have laws to protect them. Pict de Vries,
a Bastard, was by his father's order (who lived on a
place belonging to Stofell Smit near Beaufort), sent
to assist Smit in cutting com, etc. The order arrived
from Captain Stockenstroom that S~t should form
one of a party to accompany him to the Orange River.
Instead of going himself, he ordered this Bastard,
who refused. A complaint was made to the Veld
Cornet who, after asking him his reasons for refusing,
observed " You Bokkeveld Bastards are too pre-
suming with the white men ", and as a proof of that
being his opinion, he ordered him to be tied to the
1 Platberg is near Windsorton Road. Haip's birthplace, Moss, was Moos,
Rev. John Edwards' mission station near Blocmhof. Sec Maingard, op. ril.,
p~ u5. Professor Maingard has further suggested to me that, since 11111:s in
Komna means a spring, the actual spot was possibly the farm Stcrkfontcin,
a few miles west of Blocmhof, where the whole tribe were settled at one
time. Sec op. di., p. 1~5.
• Bcrgcoaars, or Mountaineers ; a tribe of Griqua mamudcrs, who were
finally quelled by Andries Watcrbocr of Griquatown. See also Plate,.
 ANDREW SMITH DIARY

wagon wheel and severely flogged. The Bastard,

after receiving his punishment, returned to Smit's
house, took away his gun, and Bed home. His father
repaired to the Veld Cornet to ascertain the reason
why his son had been so punished. He does not know
what occurred, but shortly after a commando of
farmers approached their residence, upon which his
father sprung on his horse and fled off towards the
Great River, leaving behind him his cattle, wagon,
etc. Those, he says, were all sold at Beaufort, and
he has never recovered any of the proceeds. Had it
not been that they were so hunted they would never
have left the Colony. They prefer it from its having
been their birthplace. He had also a good deal of
corn growing which was taken possession of by
Smit, being upon his land. The Veld Cornet was
David Fourie.
2. DECEMBER (TUESDAY).

The Caffets who work iron have commonly a

sort of hammer made of the same metal, hut of a
very rough rude form. The anvil consists of a large
stone, and they use charcoal to burn. Their bellows
consist of a sack, narrow at one extremity, in which
is fixed a horn, commonly of the eland. The other is
open, and kept stretched transversely on each side
by a slender piece of wood. By this opening the air
is admitted, and by the thumb being fixed in a loop
on one side and the fingers on the other, the sides
are alternately opened and closed, and at the same time
[as] the latter is effected the bag is pressed forward
towards the horn. When a strong fue is required,
two of these are employed and one man works
I J4 ANDREW SMITH DIAR T

them both. The points of the horns are fixed in a

piece of masonry immediately behind the fire, or
they are secured in a certain position by means of
pieces of wood driven into the ground and made
to cross above the tube. By means of these they are
able to produce a heat sufficient to work any article
they require.
A man arrived here yesterday who states that
Pict Whitefoot has lately been on a commando
against some Buchuannas on the Hart River, and not
having got from them sufficient cattle a party betook
themselves afterwards to Matebee with the view of
attacking some of his posts. On their way they
called upon Jan Bloom and entreated him to join
them. He refused and advised them also to desist from
the attempt, observing " Do not you know that a
commission is now in the land making the different
tribes unite in friendship, and it might fare ill with
them should they be discovered ·engaged in such
proceedings." He said he did not regard the com-
mission ; nothing would happen to him. They
might keep their guns on their shoulders and his
people would keep theirs and see what could happen.
Bloom remarked " I think your eyes will soon be
opened now thin&s are not as formerly." The same
man says that missionaries have established themselves
near to Whitefoot and he is getting all his people
together with the determination of abstaining from
all evil acts in future. He is now terribly afraid,
and the man says he declares that now from this
time no man shall know that Whitefoot lives.
The people of the station being very anxious to
!!CCsome rockets fired, three were prepared and sent
 ANDMW SMITH DI.ARY

up. This created a great consternation among the

people, and many of them fled with vehemence from
the places they bad taken up in the neighbourhood.
Darhuip, the Coraruia Bushman and famous plunderer,
was among the number. He said " Now I can see
why you speak so lightly of going against Masala-
catzie. What can be do against such things ? He
will never think of fighting, but only of running
away." He said, after all was over, "I never wish
to see any more of that fire, or if I do I hope to be
on a hill at a great distance from it." Anotlier man,
a Griqua, tried hard to induce Mr. Archbald and
myself to return to the houses and kept repeating
"All shall not go well." He was afraid to leave by
himself lest the rocket should overtake them. He
said we must fire no more ; we were only working
to kill them all. Most of them exclaimed why did
we not furnish them with such things to protect
their cattle, and added the more they saw of white
people the more were they convinced of the wonderful
powers they could command. At this station I
accidentally discovered two persons most earnestly
engaged in prayer early in the morning. One was a
woman the other a Caffer man. Each was in a
different situation and both at a considerable distance
from the town. The latter was giving utterance to
his feelings aloud, and appeared extremely earnest
in his supplications.
The country around the station is principally
flat, but the town itself is situated with a low ridge
stretching nearly N. and south. The houses are irregu-
larly disposed, though more or less encircling the
cattle kcials, which are built of stone, the walls about
3i feet in height and at least two feet thick. The
 ANDREW SMITH DI.ARY

foundation consists of very large stones, the super-

structure of smaller ones. The houses vary much in
size, which I am told arises from their not all having
yet had sufficient time to construct their permanent
dwellings. The walls are first formed of reeds, then
plaistered with a mixture of clay and cow dung so
as to be perfectly watertight. After this the upper
part is thatched, and from the lower part of the
thatch pillars are placed perpendicular in advance of
[the] wall so as to form a sort of verandah under
which they sleep during the summer. The walls
of some of them are of a conical form and they are
exactly like the kiln in which they
burn charcoal in the Colony. Mr.
r/; Archbald estimates the population
• belonging to his station at between :five
• f and six thousand. They have a tolerable
quantity of cattle.
3 DECEMBER (WEDNESDAY).

Started about 8 o'clock to accompany the Caffcrs

on a hunt. They assemble together at some deter-
mined spot, and then receive the directions of the
principal as to how the operations of the day are to
be conducted. Previous to that, he stated, the spokes-
man for the day appointed by the chief makes known
anything connected with the affairs of the nation
which the chief may desire. On this occasion he
stated that two cows and an ox were missing, and
required in the name of the chief that any person who
might know aught thereof should declare it, or if
they should hereafter hear anything about them
they must make it known. This is customary previous
to settling the affairs of the hunt from almost all the
 .ANDREW SMITH DI.ARY 117
people being assembled on such occasions. When
the proper directions were given, the party divided
into two portions and proceeded [in] opposite ways.
The greatest number went to form the ring on the
windward side. When the front men of the two
parties met then they began to diminish the ring
by advancing slowly from all points towards the
centre. When first formed the circle might be about
3 miles in diameter, but so long as it continued of
this size the game appeared to pay but little regard
to their situation. As soon as it was sufficiently
narrowed that in the middle the animals could
see themselves to be entirely surrounded, they
appeared to get very uneasy and made repeated
rushes in various directions. The first rushes were
generally unavailing, but when they saw themselves
gradually closed upon the others were more de-
termined and rarely did they turn even though
great efforts were made to stop them. In passing,
the Caffers closed upon them and used their hassegays
with great alertness. Several herds of springboks
were all enclosed and scarcely one of them broke
out without several being killed. The karrie was
used against these animals. Many young gnus were
also killed or caught by the dogs. There was con-
tained within the circle this day an immense number
of gnus, a number of quaggas, one hartebeast [and]
a great many springboks. The slaughter was/retty
considerable and many pack oxen were loade with
the spoils. Several Caffers were armed with guns
and some were fair marksmen.
Had the Corannas together in the afternoon to
hear their views in regard to peace. Derwhuip 1
l The chief of the Linka Korana,
 ANDREW SMITH DIARY

was present and I availed myself of this opportunity

of letting him know how his character liad been
represented in the Colonial newspapers. He acknow-
ledged that hitherto he had been deserving of all
that had been said against him, but added that he
now was convinced of his errors and determined to
conduct himself well in future and to remain attached
to the Lynx kraal under Abraham.
4 DECEMBER (THURSDAY).

Left Thabanchu at i before ten and travelled to

one of the northern branches of the Mudder 1 River,
a distance of about 13 miles. Country very dry,
grass very short, and then abundance of locusts 111
every direction mostly in their perfect state. Several
small kraals of Caffers on the side of the road towards
the station all with a fair number of cattle and some
with pretty considerable flocks of sheep.

' DECEMBER (FRIDAY).

When Haip with some of his Corannas was lying

on the Vaal River with Malutsana, a small party of
Masalacatzie's Caffers carried off a few cattle from
the latter. He followed them, but seeing they were
too strong returned without attacking them. Some
time afterwards the Caffers secured a portion of
Haip's cattle. He sent to Jan Bloom, who with the
Corannas formed a commando against Masalacatzie.
They succeeded in carrying off a great number of
cattle, all of which they lost again on the third or
fourth night through an attack of the Caffers. After
1 Modeler.
 ANDREW SMITH DIARY 1s9
this they resolved upon the large commando com-
monly known as 1 that of old Barends. They took
several women along with the cattle and one of them
told Haip that the third night they were certain of
being attacked. She advised them to sleep at some
distance from the cattle. He asked her how she
could speak so against her own people, and added
he thought she was lying. She replied, why should
she lie, now that she had been taken ; she must
make up her mind to remain with them, because were
she to return she would be killed. Haip made the
party acquainted with the information he had received
from the woman and advised the plan she proposed,
but all spurned it and said " Let them come. We
are strong enough for them. Let us kill and eat."
Accordingly they did so and eat during the greater
part of the night. A little before the moon went
under they laid themselves down to sleep, and just
as she went under and day began to break the Caffers
came in. The majority were asleep and in the uproar
a few shots were fired. Most attempted [to] escape.
Haip with a Bushman got out from the camp and
after the day was broken he discovered that there
was a circle of Caffers beyond him, men standing
about 6 or .Io yards apart ready to attack whoever
might be found flying. A party of Caffers attempted
to rush out at the same t>lace he did, and Masalacattie's
people flew at them with great vigour. This occur-
rence enabled him to pass unobserved into a small
thicket through which he made his escape. Thinks
that there were at least 1 ,ooo belonging to Masala-
cattie. A party of young men were by who hovered
about but did not engage in the combat.
1 MS. ha "by".
llil
16o ANDREW SMITH DIARY

Towards the sources of the Slik Spruit and Leeu

River there reside a great many Bushmen. [They]
seldom steal more than one or two cattle at a time.
[They] lately attacked two farmers and a Coranna
who were proceeding with a horse wagon loaden
with tobacco. Wounded all three. They fled, leaving
the wagon and another which they also had. When
the Bushmen see they must be killed they are very
desperate and regularly rush on towards their enemy,
shooting their arrows with great rapidity.
Halted during the night on the banks of the Mudder
River about dusk. Immense flights of wild duck
passed down the river, several hundred in some
flights. A large otter was seen in the water near
where we halted.

6 DECEMBER (SATURDAY).

Remained for the day in consequence of having

obtained several new birds, a Passer and several
others. Also the long-tailed Butcher bird whose
eyes were a dark brown. The lizard caught on the
top of the mountain range drinks water freely and
laps it with its tongue. Thermometer in the wagon
during most of the day 8 s ; about z p.m. in the
sun ns.
This morning about 16 Corannas from a neigh-
bouring kraal visited us and brought with them
milk for sale, all very anxious for tobacco. Some
were dressed in leathern trousers and jackets ; one
or two had cloth jackets ; most of them had hats and
a number had carosses ; some had simply a small
piece of skin hanging in front not sufficient to conceal
 .ANDREW SMITH DIAll Y 161

the organs of generation. Amongst them was an

old man who emigrated with the fu:st party. Before
that he says they lived on the banks of the Orange
River a little above "Pella, finding the game get scarce
and hearing that abundance was higher on the river
led them to leave. They first settled below the
junction of the Vaal and Zwart Rivers. There were
no Griquas then in the land nor missionaries. This
must have been about 47 years ago. Nothing but
Caffers along the Vaal River above where the Hart
falls into it. Below and between the two rivers
named, Bushmen. About 41 years ago Jan Bloom
arrived amongst them [atl the Lynx kraal and got
all the active people together and commenced plun-
dering the Caffers. Took a great number of cattle
and as the Caffers retired they, the Corannas, gradually
advanced to the east till they reached the Hart
River which they ascended and occupied. Small kraals
of Bushmen are dispersed over the whole of this
country and the Corannas from time to time lose a
cow or a sheep ; but the country is so trodden that
they have never yet been able to discover the offenders.
This day procured a specimen of Merop.s close to
Merop.s apiaster. Throat yellow, margined behind
by a black band ; breast dark, grass green belly and
vent a much lighter tint of the same colour ; bill
black ; eyes red ; legs and toes dull red ; ears black,
and an interrupted black stripe under eyes, and also
one of same colour between bill and eyes ; above
eyebrows green, and a tint of green also appears
below the eye edging ; the yellow of . throat front
greenish; white crown ; neck and interscapulars light
maronne ; back and rump dull grass green ; shoulders
dull grass green, some w[ith] secondary wing coverts
162 ANDREW SMITH DIAltY

rufous ; outer vanes of primary quill feathers and half

of inner vanes towards shaft dark green, rest of
inner vanes whitis~ tips black; secondaries rufous
with black tips, inner edges of inner vanes inclined
to dusky white ; tail green, the shafts reddish brown,
two centre feathers about an inch longer than others
and somewhat pointed ; inner secondaries green ;
scapulars pale brownish white with rufous tints pale.
Shot on Mudder River ; several seen flying. Lampro-
tornis : green with rather a long tail; eyes dark brown;
legs, toes and bill black.
A Namaqua Hottentot called ....•• 1 stole some
cattle from Waterboer, the latter pursued with a
commando of 112. men, and upon his perceiving that
he could not escape he made a hole in the ground and
he and the three men that were with him got into it
and he let Waterboer ktiow that they might do what
they wished but he would defend himself to the last.
When the commando commenced working with
him day had just appeared and before they succeeded
in killing him it was about j in the afternoon. The
three which were in the hole with him fled, and he
continued alone with his own and their guns. He
wounded several and they, seeing no chance of getting
him out, got all the cattle together and drove them in
three parties upon the hole. When they were closing
he sprung out of the hole to fire at the men that were
behind one of the herds, and on this occasion some
behind one of the other herds fired and killed him.
When he was killed he had only two balls and about
two charges of powder. Waterboer called out to
him on one occasion to give himself up. He replied
1
No name I"=·
 ANDUW SMITH l)l.AllY

" I am not here to surrender ; I am here to fight.,.

Kruger says the Namaquas are brave Hottentots.
He says when annoyed it is impossible to do anything
with them ; they will listen to nothing, but when
quiet and in good humour they appear rather cowardly
and are extremely tractable even to children. When
Kruger visited the Hart River he found the Lynx
Kraal quietly established in that district with large
gardens and abundance of corn in the ground. He
enquired of Haip why it was that 1 they had retro-
graded, so he answered, Jan Captain and his people
were jealous of them and said that their prosperity
would obtain for them a good name in the Colony,
and therefore it was necessary to check it. He and
Barend resided together and formed a commando
against them and deprived them of most of their
cattle.
7 DECEMBER (SUNDAY).

Thermometer at i past 11 a.m. 96 in my wagon.

Outside a strong wind from the north not so hot ;
files begin to be very troublesome.
A Basutu said the hammerkop gives rain. When
that bird flies much round and cries much, the people
dig small holes in the ground and place a little milk
in each. Then when the bird settles on the ground and
treads in it, it is so enraged that it picks out fue and
the thunder then comes which is followed by the
rain. Amongst the Kareeberg Bushmen there exists
a belief that the crucmelion can tell them when it will
rain. Whenever one is discovered the conjurer or
rain-maker must immediately be made acquainted
' MS. has " why that wu they had."
 ANDUW SMITH DIAllT

with the circumstance, and he then repairs to the

spot and gives it some pieces of meat and watches
the workings of its eye, and ascertains from those
when it will rain. An old man once said " There
goes a Hottentot god." A person present remarked
" How can you so talk ; did not the god that made
us make the Hottentot." He replied laughing " Can-
not you see it has just such a large bottom and narrow
backbone as the Hottentots." The Corannas call
God Teguaap.1 They feel that some power must
have managed the world, and which is invisible to
them; but this is all they know on the subject.
During most of the day, but particularly about
3 p.m., it was extremely hot with a strong north
wind. Thermometer in a wagon and open cart
standing at 99; in the open air at 110. Some thunder
in the distance towards evening and a few light
coloured clouds rose towards the north. In the
north-west a heavy bank towards sunset with the
appearance of rain falling at a distance in that direction.
At 10 p.m. thermometer in the wagon 81. Wind a
little to the west of north and sometimes in strong
gusts. Sky without a cloud. In consequence of the
excessive heat we were forced to delay the performance
of divine service till after sunset.

8 DECEMBER (MONDAY).

When the Corannas speak of the Caffers they call

them Briqua • hence the name by Campbell which he
1 Tim /J goap. This is as close a transcription of what Smith heard as is con-
sistent With our knowledge of existing forms of the word.
• See Maingard, L. F., in B1111hl Sllllliu, Johannesburg, t952, Vol. vi,
No. i, p. 156, text iii, lines 3-+
 ANDREW SMITH DIARY 16s
has misWlderstood. Speaking of the frontier Caffers
they say ...... 1 Briqua or naked Caffers. The
Bushmen of the Kareeberg speak a very different
language to those between the Vaal and Zwarte
River, and those on the Hart River are very different
from both. Kruger, who understands the former
language, can only understand an occasional word of
the second class and not one of the third. The
Corannas again differ in language. All others except
regular Bushmen look upon the latter with contempt.
People employed during the day searching for the
horses of our herd which were yesterday lost.
Got some interesting birds, amongst others Fako
thifjll81'a male and female. The common sparrow
found here, also abundance of the Turd11.1 oliv1Ke11.t.
Many of the birds common in the Colony are also
found here, the Elan11.t melanoptef'tl.f, Attipiter 11111.1k11.1,
Cortlll.f stapalafllJ and kuikenduif 1 common.
It may generally be estimated how long a river has
continued without having been flooded by the quantity
of weeds that have reached the surface of the water.
A river after having been flooded appears for a year
or two without weeds appearing, all tliose that existed
previous to the flood having been washed away.
The locusts before getting wings follow generally
an easterly course. They may deviate a little for a
time but they always proceed in general in that direc-
tion. Water or fue is the best to keep them off land.
H in the morning when they are near land persons
go gently between them and the land and kindle small
1 Blank in MS. This cannot be obtained from piesent-day Korana who
do not know the " frontier Kaffim."
• Kuikmdicf, or chicken thief; a species of hawk.
166 ANDREW SMITH DIARY

fires and continue to walk about but not disturb

them, they will on beginning to move generally
endeavour to take a direction by which they will
avoid coming in contact with the fire and smoak.
If, however, they are disturbed by persons going
amongst them, they spring in all directions and to a
certainty many get towards the com, and when once
to it they never leave it as long as any remains. If
water is to be employed to keep them away, it ought
to be led round the land nearly level with the surface.
If running in a deep ditch they will on their arrival
attempt to spring across, and the moment one makes
the attempt all follow. They then climb up the op-
posite side and reach the field. It is stated that if
they arrive at a garden and cannot get in at the door,
they will climb up the wall and descend on the other
side.
Kruger requested of Fisher the Landdrost of Tul-
bagh to be permitted to remain at home during the
last Caffer commando. For answer he received an
order to J?rovide for that service two people in his
employ with each a gun, an horse, saddle and bridle,
two draught oxen, 8 sheep, four muids corn, an axe,
saw, adze and bore, and to pay 3s Rds. in money.
Many others who made similar requests had com-
paratively nothing to pay ; those who furnished sheep
were not required to give corn and vice versa.
[He] accounts for the heaviness of his payment from
his having been on bad terms with the Landdrost.
During most of the day rather cloudy and cooler
than yesterday though thermometer stood only a
little below 90. Derhuip, upon being requested by
me through Haip to cause search to be made for his
 ANDREW SMITH DIAl'-T

horses, immediately got his horse and went himseif

in search of them accompanied by another man of
his party. Discovered their footsteps along the road
to Thaba Unchu.
Two oxen reported lame. Some days ago Mr.
Bell's horse appeared sick, and to-day one of Kruger's
was affected in the same way. K. considered the
disease as constipation occasioned by eating locusts.
Had his horse exercised sharply which caused him
to evacuate both faeces and a great quantity of wind.
Says when grass is scarce horses devour immense
quantities of locusts and that they have the eHect
mentioned.
9 DECEMBER (TUESDAY).

Passer with white stripe over eyes shot on Mudder

River. Oear reddish brown. Started at t past twelve
and reached the bed of a river situated in an extensive
Bat with here and there deep pools of good water ;
pools more or less edged with reeds ; few bushes.
The man which Derhuip promised and gave up
to us as guide promised to Join us immediately he
got his horses, but has not yet made his appearance.
Kruger's horse yet very sick; can pass nothing;
gave him some jalap and castor oil also soap and
water; rolls continually and will not stand up;
appears sometimes as if he was weak in the hinder-
quarters.
Saw several of the Certhi/allda garrtda also Falco
mmiCUJ. The Passer got on the Vaal Mudder River
whistles very well. Saw ·twelve Caffer vinks (males)
in one party and Hying very high. Olis arabs com-
168 ANDREW SMITH DIARY

moo on the flats ; got two eggs of one. An ostrich

nest also which contained five eggs. Towards evening
cool wind from the south or south-east. Locusts still
appear but in less numbers. Grass rather better than
at last outspan, but still only that of last year. Red
vink and Caffer fink common along the streams ;
where reeds occur two Grus paradesia. Everywhere
heaps of the skins of young locusts, many not yet
arrived at maturity and in company with the perfect
ones. Those that are perfect fly but short distances,
therefore evidently a different species to that seen
in such swarms in Cafferland and which fly for
an entire day without resting. Jackals heard about
dusk and also wildebeast near to us as if attracted by
the wagons and fires and astonished by them ; very
large herds of them everywhere on the flats passed
over to-day. Many young ones at 11 p.m.
Thermometer in wagon 62, which was just two
degrees higher than the greatest cold of the 9 inst.
In this country many times clouds collect and hang
over it as if threatening terrible torrents of rain but
generally pass away with discharging a few drops to
prove the nature of their composition. Fish in the
pools of this river of two kinds, the flat head and
bearded yellow fish ; also crabs of a species to me
unknown.
IO DECEMBER {WEDNESDAY).

This morning three Bushmen and their wives

visited our encampment ; some of them were without
exception the most ugly human beings I ever recollect
to have seen. The women were nearly in a state of
nature with a gnu skin hung over the shoulders
 ANDREW SMITH DIARY

and a few strings of leather in front of the genital

organs which scarcely served any purpose ; no
covering round the loins ; on the wrists and legs
below the knees a few leathern rings ; and outside
of their karosses each had a small leathern bag,
ornamented on one side with a covering of fine
leathern thongs ; round their necks a variety of
articles such as pieces of wood, leather, old beads
and tortoise shells. The men were also attired with
gnu skin karosses, but their fig leaf answered better
the purpose for which it was intended, namely, to
conceal certain portions of the body, it was formed
nearly according to the Barolong fashion. Each was
armed with one or two hassegays, a bow and quiver
full of _P,oisoned arrows, ana a kaross of jackal's
tail, besides some small bags suspended in different
situations, to hold their articles for making arrows,
etc., and also to deposit such untjies 1 as they might
collect. One of the women had a small bag full of
these roots and was anxious to exchange them amongst
our people for tobacco. Several had a thick plaister
of red clay and fat deposited on the hairs of die fore-
head in a transverse band, and several pieces of leather
attached to the hair and hanging down on the temples.
The men had sandles on the feet, the women bare
footed. One woman was in the last stage of preg-
nancy and exhibited a most extraordinary appearance ;
legs unnaturally small, thighs, particularly on the
outsides, extremely short. This is a common pecu-
liarity amongst the Bushmen women.
Tlu:ough c.• the latitude was not obtained last
night.
1 Small bulbl, gathered and eaten by Bushmen.
1 Chronometer.
 ANDREW SMITH DIARY

Little hospitality is shown by the Cora.nnas ;

nothing even in the way of eating is to be obtained
from them without payment at least when they bring
them to [the] wagon. Sometimes a principal man
will offer a present of a little thick milk and the
chief is now and then known to present to travellers
a cow or a sheep. The Caffers, particularly women,
express surprise and astonishment by clapping the
hand upon the mouth. When the women evince
delight or great satisfaction they often beat the
palm of the hand gently and quickly upon the right
side of the chest over the heart.
Over the surface of the plains in this part of the
country, particularly when the weather is very warm,
there is a sort of mirage which in some places appears
stationary, in other places in motion, and corifuses
the view; at times it looks like a sheet of water and in
almost all situations causes distant objects to exhibit
the appearance of being in rapid motion. When
rising between the traveller and distant hills, it
often from being in .Partial stripes makes the hills
appear as if divided 10to numerous points. It has
also the quality of causing objects to appear much
larger than they in reality are ; a tree will occasionally
loolc like a small hill. It produces great refraction
and thereby low hills often appear of very consider-
able height, and those at a great distance much
nearer.
The nest of Pa.r.rerfound on Mudder River is formed
of grass and is somewhat like a retort with the tube
broken off close to the head. The inside is smooth
and lined generally with guinea-fowl feathers. The
outside irregular with most of the extremities of the
 ANDREW SMITH DIARY 171

grass projecting like the spines of the porcupine,

which structure is evidently intended by the bird.
They construct a number upon the same tree, gener-
ally on one that is dead, and place them commonly
in contact with each other as represented in drawing.1
None are however quite detached. The skin of the
sebok makes the best rims ; 1 the buffalo gives
E e] strongest ones but not so soft; the male wilde-
st gives also good rims ; the cameleopard skin
is not tough enough, [as it] breaks upon the oxen
pulling the least hard. Kruger shot three blesboks;
got one. Two Gr11.t paradesia seen. Heavy clouds all
round and lightening towards the west. About s
p.m. began to rain, and continued heavy till about 8
when it moderated. Unable to cook dinner on the
flats over which we travelled. Immense herds of
wildebeast and some quaggas, also abundance of
springboks and blesboks. Towards the outspan
place the grass began to appear a little green, and the
old grass of last year more abundant. Still locusts.
11 DECEMBER (THURSDAY).

The rain ceased about i past nine last night, but

[it] continued cloudy during the night. Lions were
heard roaring and hyenas howling round our en-
campment. This morning very chilly with a strong
wina blowing from the east.
The lachrymary organs of the blesbok consist of
a rounded and Battened ...... a about the circum-
ference of a walnut below and to the facial side of
the inner canthus of each eye, with an opening towards
1 1 c:am10t uace thi• mawing.
I Rlcml,
' TbU word cannot he deciphered; it may he "aubltanc.e."
172 ANDREW SMITH DIARY

its centre through which is exuded two fluids, one

clear and watery, the other thick white and muci-
form, the latter principally when pressed hard.
Nose very broad [and] bovine, a stripe forming the
muzzle deep black and bare ; mammae two, conical
when ready to furnish milk ; slight hunch between
shoulders. A new species of Nilm, black or dull,
seen with two rows of reddish yellow spots along
middle of back ; appeared in great abundance after the
rains on the morning of the 12 creeping up small
shrubs ; feet clear red.
Last two days distance 9627,1 from principal branch
of Vaal Mudder River left at noon of 10th. The
number of wildebeast feeding on the flats is almost
incredible; in every direction large herds are seen,
and when they discover any person approaching,
they spring, kick and capper about like mad animals.
They are often seen playing together at a distance and
when two males, strangers to each other, come in
communication, a butting match is generally the
sequel. There are always a perfect propartion of
females in a herd, seldom many males ; of individuals
shot the most are females. Springbucks also numerous;
sometimes singly, often in parties of five of six
and sometimes of two or three hundred. They
profess great curiosity, and can scarcely run many
yards, if at a tolerable distance, without stopping
to tum and look at such objects as disturb them.
The gnu has equally great curiosity and his course
appears sometimes to be shaped without any judg-
ment, running directly towards an enemy, and when
within a moderate distance bouncing off in some
other direction, generally against the wind, and often
1 So in MS.
 ANDREW SMITH DIARY

pw:suing that course within gunshot of a number of

people, and whilst fired at by all, indeed whenever
sw:prised and driven into rapid flight, does not
appear to discern anything on either side, the whole
attention being directed to what may be immediately
in front. In shooting them the sportsman will do
well if several are together to permit the first two or
three to pass, and direct his attention to those fol-
lowing on as they invariably run more steadily and
do not indulge in the capperings of the leaders.
Their whole attention apparently is directed to keep
pace with those that are ahead. When a quagga
receives a wound it may readily be known by the
horse always neighing. This Kruger says invariably
happens, both the one and the other seen if not
hard pressed in a straight line one after the other.
If, however, put to their full speed by a rapid pursuit,
they get more together, each doing his utmost to
escape.
Evening and night fine.
12 DECEMBER (FRIDAY).

Started at l past 10 a.m., and after travelling across

a flat country thinly studded with small hills we reach
the Black Mudder River, where we halted to dine.
In the even started again and reached near to the
Riet River which is distant from the other about
2 hours with a wagon. The Mudder River contains a
considerable supply of water and the side of the channel
in many places was edged with reeds. The channel
in many places consisted of a sort of argillaceous
sandstone of a blue colour or sometimes greenish,
and contained large embedded masses of older
174 ANDREW SMITH DIARY

rocks generally in rolled forms. Between the Riet

and Muddcr Rivers to the east of where we crossed
some loose horses were seen supposed to belong to
Pict Whitefoot. About 4 p.m. [it] began to rain and
continued d~ most of the night. Halted for the
night on a s stream a little to the north of the
Riet River and which discharges itself into it.
13 DECEMBER. (SATURDAY).

Started a.bout t past ten o'clock and halted for

dinner at the Riet River ; channel deep and edged
wherever there is any considerable quantity of water
with reeds. Wildebeast now less Q.bundant. Oouds
abundant and dense.
Got a new species of Ardea : Above dark slate
colour ; chin and throat whiter or pale straw colour ;
along middle of throat a very dark slate coloured
band, as if cut in two along middle by a narrow
imperfect reddish white streak ; on each side of this
another longitudinal stripe, less dark ; on the chin
the central bar is lighter than elsewhere ; space
between eyes and bill greenish yellow ; upper mandible
born colour ; lower except towards cutting edge
yellow, towards cutting edge horn coloured; eyes
fine brown ; red legs and toes pale dull greenish
yellow, lightest behind; claws light horn coloured.
14 DECEMBER (SUNDAY).
Prayers at u noon. Towards evening rained very
heavily and many of the little streams were flowing
before dark. Time not got from c.1 on the part of
Burrow. Sun very clear.
1 Chrooomctu.
 ANDREW SMITH DIARY

Ij DECEMBER (MONDAY). 1

Oose to the place where [we] outspanned are two

springs each margined by a number of reeds, and to
those are suspended nests of both Plocem persona/NS
and Loxia oryx. The latter appears annually to lay
three eggs of a dull greenish colour irregularly spotted
with brownish green most abundantly towards the
large end. The Plocem personaflls lays also three eggs
of a light brownish red colour marbled with spots of
the same colour only of a darker tint. There are
generally much more females than males. The male
builds the nest and when it does not please the female
she pulls it to pieces and he is forced to build another.
I have often seen the males employed in building nests.
They push the point of the grass into one side and
pull it out at an opposite side so that the nest
appears weaved together and the grass of which it
is constructed mucli interlaced. The ears of the grass
with which they build their nest is commonly chaffy,
and these they place inside so as to have a soft surface
to lay the eggs upon. The opening of the red fink
is nearly circular, of the personatus rather a half
moon. The colour of the eggs of the red fink varies,
the ground being in some dull green, in others red
brown (pale). The surface of the ground cracks very
much after heavy rains in consequence of the rapidity
of the evaporation causing the top of the soil to
harden suddenly and shrink in every direction.
16 DECEMBER (TUESDAY).

To the west of where we started from yesterday

there were 8 farmers' wagons distributed along the
1 A pencilled note inserted hen: n:ada : Lat. 19-39; Long. 17.6.
N
 .ANDREW SMITH DIARY

small river which descends from the hills to the

southward and their flocks and herds were seen feeding
in every direction around the wagons. One was named
De Toit from Winterveldt ; another, Jacobs, stated
that the country within the Colony was so bad that
they could not get subsistence for their flocks. The
situation they inhabit abounds with fine grass, but
everywhere round it, even only a mile or two distant,
there is scarcely the appearance of vegetation. Such
appearances are seen m many parts of this country,
and [it] appears as if the rains had been very partial.
Several very large flights of locusts were observed
yesterday, and some still lar~er to-day, those of to-day
flying generally with the wind and so dense that the
sky cannot be discerned through the flight. The
noise is considerable and like a heavy shower of
rain upon half-dried leaves. When not accustomed to
flying they generally have the head towards the wind
and the wings from it so that they are driven about
at random.
Ycstcrday passed several moderately strong springs,
one where a farmer named Badenhorst has taken up
his residence contrary to the wishes of Old Dam,1 and
another where about 40 families are living and where
there is a considerable quantity of land covered with
fine waving corn where they have a Bastard residing
in the capacity of schoolmaster who is called Jan
Hoyman. This person was formerly in the employ
of the London Missionary Society. The Bastards seen
in this direction have a tolerable supply of cattle and
most are in good condition. Most of the Corannas,
both men and women, wear jackal's skin caps upon
Mani Kok.
 AND.REW SMITH DIARY 177
the head, and karosses of the same kind appear to
be the favourite dress of both males and females.
17 DECEMBER (WEDNESDAY).

At daylight mounted my horse and rode on to

Philippolis which [I] reached about 7 a.m. Found
a package of letters and newspapers. About nine
the wagons arrived and drew up where we had
halted before. There is immediately around Philippolis
a tolerable supply of grass, but the water of the
spring is much weaker than when we were last here.
Duriiig the months of December and January, Mr.
Kolbe informs me the supply of water is most scanty.
Found all our stores in good order and towards the
afternoon commenced removing some of them to
the wagons for the purpose of reloading. Very
windy during the after part of the day.
I 8 DECEMBER (THURSDAY).

Employed during most of the day in preparing

the articles to be sent from this to Cape Town. A
man asked 110 Rds. to convey the articles from this
to Graaff Reynet, a distance of 7 schoffs. 1 Bought
6.ve cows from a man named Vossey 1 18 Rds. each.
Mr. Kolbe gave me up this morning the H oxen
which were left at Philippolis about three months
ago all with the exception of one or two (old ones)
in good condition.
Old Dam has given out an order that all the houses
in the village shall be repaired ; such a law has long
1 A day'• • shift• by o:s-waggon.
1 Pouie. See Methuen, H:H., Lift ;,, tht Wilawnm, Lcmdoo, 1841,
p. 20,.
 ANDREW SMITH DIAllY

been in existence but never acted upon. In the month

of December of every year all were directed to [be]
repaired else the owners to be fined. Mr. Kolbe once
was upbraiding the chief for not punishing for certain
offences, and was telling him it would never do if
things were to go on so. At last the old man got a
little vexed and replied " If I begin to punish, I
must :first punish myself ten times as severely as
any of the other people, for I have equally broken
the regulations." Many of the Griquas have had
very tolerable crops of wheat this year.

19 DECEMBER (FRIDAY).

Engaged during a part of the day in packing up

various articles destined for Cape Town, and during
the rest in investigating the early history of the
Griquas. They scarcely can tell to what tribe they
belonged; they observe that they believe they were
from that division. A long time before they settled
in this country they had been wandering about the
country along the Orange River and about Kamisberg,
so that they may be considered as a horde of persons
who in earlier times were moving as wanderers from
place to place to obtain the necessary support for
their cattfe.
10 DECEMBER (SATURDAY).

Barend Philip, Field Cornet of Dam Kok, was

wishing to visit Phillipolis, and embraced an oppor-
tunity offered him of a scat in Stoffel Jacobs' horse
wagon. When on the road they halted near a spring
and Stoffel repaired towards the water and when
 ANDREW SMITH DIAR. Y 179
within a very little distance of it had a number of
arrows shot at him. He was wounded by. one of the
arrows and Barend by another ; both fled. The
Bushmen, about 15 or 16 in number, then repaired to
the wagon and pillaged it; also shot seven of the
horses and wounded the eighth.
The Bushmen say that the Boors and Corannas by
means of the horses which they possess are enabled
to pursue and take their children and therefore they
are determined not to leave a horse alive. They are
also determined to kill all dogs as they give warning
of their approach to the farmer's residence during
the night. At a kraal where we halted we were told
that a party of Bushmen had passed after some
fanners who had stolen their children ; one of the
Boors was Barend Levenberg.1 Bushmen appear to
think that there is no justice for them in this world
and a most intelligent Griqua told me that till now
they had almost the same belief. They never could
fancy that even those who described themselves as
friendly were so in reality. The Bushmen and even
the Hottentots keep telling their children of the in-
juries they have experienced at the hands of the
farmers, and that they must never cease following
such and such an one till they spill his blood on the
ground; they are now so in despair that most have
resolved to cease complaining. A party of Bushmen
passed Phillipolis some time ago on their route to
Graaff Reynet to complain that the farmers whom
they had served would not pay them their wages.
The farmers wished to advance towards the Vaal
River and the Bushmen were desirous of remaining
& Licbcubczg.
do ANDREW SMITH DIAllT

where they were. They asked their payment ; the

farmers withheld it.
1I DECEMBER (SUNDAY).

Mr. Kolbe preached in E!Jglish at 3 p.m. for the

convenience of our party ; the usual congregation of
Griquas were also present. The children belonging
to the infant school sang two verses of the Infant's
Hymn and the performance was very creditable to
them.
.U DECEMBER {MONDAY).

Attended the Magistrate's court in the morning;

Cornelius .....• 1 was the Magistrate. Only one case
came before him, during the investigation of which
it appeared that the individual who had been sum-
moned for the third time was not present. The
Veld Comet had been written to that he must bring
him by force ; he, when questioned on the subject,
stated that he did not understand the letter to
impower him to do that. The Magistrate fined him
6 Rds, a large sum in the estimation of the people
here, and gave him instruction to bring h'.m before
the court by force. The next case was as follows.
A man had lost his horse. He heard of Tontjie Stoffel
being going on a visit and requested him, should he
meet the horse anywhere, to take charge of it. He
found it and with it rode to some Corannas who
for a debt seized it. Prosecutor demanded payment
for the horse. Defendant stated t!iat they took the
i Bllak in MS.
 ANDREW SMITH DIARY 181
horse by violence ; other says it was given by them
in pawn. Delayed, no witness being present. After
this court had concluded its operations the legislative
council, consisting of the chief and a certain portion
of the people, proceeded to a sitting. Several matters
were discussed by them. 1st. a Field Cornet reported
that a large kraal of Corannas had objected to submit
to his authority. The rebellious Coranna was present
and denied the charge advanced by the Field Cornet,
namely, having shown a determination to oppose the
Field Cornet in his duty. Admitted that he had
said he would not subject himself to him, and that
determination he still cherished. He said the Field
Cornet had always belonged to the same kraal with
him and that in the kraal he had not stood higher
than he did therefore he could not now submit to
him. Ordered either quietly to submit to the con-
stituted authority or to leave the district over which
he presided.
The same Field Comet accused the rebel William 1
of having heard from a Coranna that he had cut the
sinews of a Bushman in consequence of which he
died. Took no notice thereof. He denied the charge
and said long after the Coranna had gone from his
kraal he heard the report through the children.
When William positively refused to stand under
Field Cornet Barend, they desired him to retire and
then the Council proceeded to discuss the case.
Several were inclined to let it pass unnoticed, evi-
dently fearing his influence and power. At last they
resolved upon ordering him to leave the district
and then let what will come. They seemed to expect
 ANDREW SMITH DIARY

he would not comply with the order. Some fancied

he would join the party of evil disposed Corannas
lying on the Mudder River, and commence a war
with the Griquas. Upon being called in to hear the
decision of the CounCil he made no reply, but called
some of his people to be present, and he inquired of
them if they heard what they were ordered to do.
Soon after the decision was made known to William,
he left the Council room and about an hour after-
wards returned and took leave of the chief and several
of the persons present, but passed the Field Comet
without noticing him.
Many of the irregularities which occur in this
country are passed without punishment, not because
they are considered as not meriting punishment but
because the Govt. of the country are afraid of the
offenders. Till some more efficient system of Govt.
be introduced good order will never be established.
He, William, was also accused of having co-operated in
selling the Caffer boy to Badenhorst. Was also
accused of having given permission to some farmers
to reside in the part of the country he inhabits.
Admitted this, and stated that they asked this per-
mission in consequence of their farms within the
Colony not having grass sufficient to support their
cattle. Said he did not know that the chief objected
to the Boers living in his country. It was stated by
some of the members that William was on particularly
good terms with the farmers, and that there was
reason to believe that they had urged him to oppose
the orders of the chief. He now presides over the
kraal which not very long ago was at war with the
Griquas, and which was then under a chief named
Kruger. They said Kruger was by some of the
 ANDREW SMITH DIAl\.T

Colonial Field Cornets brought to agree to peace

and was at that time created by these one of Kok's
Field Cornets. When they repaired to Philippolis
to conclude the peace, they galloped into the town
about z.oo in number each with a gun, for which
conduct they were reprimanded by one of the Colonial
Field Cornets. The war existed for about nine months
and during that time only one man was killed who
was herding some cattle. They were constantly
firing at each other but at such a distance that the
balls could scarcely reach the persons they were
fired at. This is the way they carry on war.
The subject of the settlement of the German
missionaries Gabel and Krautz 1 was next considered.
The chief and his council seemed to consider that
they were too distant from Philippolis or else too
near it ; they seemed to fear that their residence
amongst them would be followed by division in
the country ; that an independent party would rise
up with them and endeavour to establish an indepen-
dent chief. From the state of the country and the
characters of the people I am not disinclined to
adopt the same opinion.
13 DECEMBER (TUESDAY). 1

14 DECEMBER {WEDNESDAY).

When about to start it was discovered that one of

the wagons required repair.
i Gebel and Kraut.
• No entry for this date. Smith spent part of this day in writing a rce_ort_
to Chase in Cap: Town. This report wu reprinted in the Ctl}JI of Good
H1J>1 Lil"'"'Y Citl:C,1111, Cape Town, 185', Vol. v, No. 1, pp. 15-14.
 ANDllEW SMITH DIAR.Y

ZS DECEMBER (THURSDAY).

The Chief and Hendrick Hendricks 1 came to

consult me upon the following case. A man named
Skempers,1 a saddle maker at Graaff Reynet, arrived
at Philippolis about the month of Sept., and informed
the chief that a person named Liebergeldt 8 resident
in his country was indebted to him between 8 and
900 Rix dollars, and that he had been waiting agreeable
to arrangements made between him and Liebergeldt
for a month past to secure payment. He demanded
permission of Kolbe to travel in his country in order
to 6.nd Liebergeldt. This was granted to him, but
no violence was to be resorted to. Scempers for some
time could not find him, but at last discovered him
on the Riet River where he gave an order upon a
man named Bloom who was in charge of his property
to deliver over to the creditor a certain number of
young oxen and some cows at certain fixed prices.
Upon Scemper's arriving at the farm accompanied by
Martinus Herbst, he was not satisfied with the cattle
but determined upon seizing every article of property
he found there, and amongst other articles carried
off a wagon which Liebergeldt had on loan from
Adam Kok. On arrival at Philippolis he informed
the Wyk master' Vice 11 of the transaction, who offered
no obstacle to his proceeding except that he told him
that the wagon did not belong to Liebergeldt but
to Adam Kok. He promised to return it from the
1 The secretary to the govcmment of Griqualand. and IOll-in-law ol
Adam Kok, the chief.
:~.
' Ward-muter.
I PfobabJJ WJele.
 ANDREW SMITH DIARY

Orange River. That however he did not do but

took it on to Graaff Reynet and there has detained
it ever since, saying when Liebergeldt pays him what
is still owing of the debt he can have his wagon.
I recommended them to proceed against Liebergeldt
for the wagon or value thereof, or else to apply to
Mr. Reyneveld to deliver up Scempers to the Griqua
Govt. to be tried as a thief. They seemed to expect
that the latter would not be complied with and there-
fore appeared inclined to try the former method.
z.6 DECEMBER (FRIDAY).

The repairs of the wagon being completed, we

left Philippolis about z. p.m. and travelled as far as
Bushmanfonteyn, passing on our way Driefonteyn,
a place belonging to Mr. Kolbe, where there is a
good garden, a small earthern house and a fine stream
of water. Busbmanfonteyn is the property of the
London Missionary Society and at present has no
inhabitants, which I am informed arises from the
fear of the natives who since Adam Krotz' father was
murdered there say that spirits are seen wandering
about the place.
The murder was perpetrated by the Basutu. Some
years ago the Bergha.ners had stolen some cattle
belonging to them and had driven them close to
this place. The horde who were in pursuit found the
footmarks of the cattle close to tliis fountain, and
after that they could find no more of them they
supposed that they had been carried there, and without
further inquity fell upon the people who were
principally 111 the house, burnt it and killed all the
persons who were in it. A daughter of the old man
186 ANDREW SMITH DIARY

with two or three others was in the field and they

fled on seeing the place attacked, but soon the daughter
changed her mind and said she would sooner die
with her father, brothers and sisters than escape
and be left in the world alone. They then turned
back and ran to the house which was at the time in
flames, and just as she was entering the door she was
stabbed by one of the Caffers. The bodies of those
who perished were all buried under the ruins of the
house, amounting to fifteen in number. When the
commando of Col. Graham was near to the mouth of
the Bushman River, it was discovered that Congo 1
and his councillors were secreted in a thickly wooded
k.loof near to them. Spies were sent out and the
situation of the party was accurately ascertained.
In the night zoo men were dispatched to surround the
place, and about daylight die principal people re-
sorted to Congo's hut to talk over their affairs. They
were all seated round a small fire which had been
kindled for the chief when the commando fired
upon them and killed all excepting one woman.
Congo himself had ten or eleven wounds in his
body. This was related to me by a person who
was one of the party.
The country between Phillipolis and Bushmanfon-
tcyn is very dry with a moderate quantity of short
grass but still has a very barren appearance, the red
soil pressing everywhere through the short thinly
scattered grass, and the hills if anything look more
barren than the flats, and here and there with a few
tufts of grass standing between the stones which
strew their surfaces.
1 K.bungwa, a Xhosa chief.
 ANDREW SMITH DIAltY

2.7 DECEMBER (SATURDAY).

Started a little after daylight and proceeded to

Spoet Fonteyn where there is a strong spring and the
remains of several large stone kraals. Very little
grass except in the valley through which the water
flows. At the best of times the appearance of this
country is miserable, but in the wmter I am told it
has a most wretched aspect ; no trees to give variety
and the little grass that exists is so burnt up and
discoloured by the heat that it can scarcely be dis-
tinguished from the soil, so that nought 1 but an
uniform ferruginous surface exists wherever the eye
can reach. The soil is scanty in most situations and
the trap rocks or rounded stones are generally seen
upon the surface, the soil between them. On the tops
of the hills some small stunted bushes and on the
flats also a few of the same only still smaller. During
the summer some tremendous gusts of wind drive
during the day which carries the dust along with them
in great quantities ; these gusts are of the character
of whirlwinds and carry the dust directly upwards.
On such occasions the cylinders of dust are of a
conical shape and rise to more than a hundred feet
in height ; [they] are often seen in various directions.
Come on very suddenly and cease equally suddenly.
2.8 DECEMBER (SUNDAY).

During the whole day excessively hot ; thermometer

in the shade varying from 98 to IOI. Service deferred
till evening in consequence of the extreme heat.
This place called Varkfonteyn and is the place of a
1 MS. bas " not."
188 ANDREW SMI'tH DIAJlT

Griqua family with abundance of cattle and a large

ftock of sheep. They have an immense supply of
milk and furnished us with that in great abundance.
SP.ring which furnishes water moderately strong and
differs but little throughout the year. Country still
very barren with but little grass excepting in particular
spots.
~9 DECEMBER {MONDAY).

Started at daylight and rode to the Skanse,1 a place

belonging to Dam Kok. Spring strong. Several
of the oxen appear never to have been in the yoke
and are with great labour inspanned. One ox has
been lame ever since leaving Graaff Reynet, and it
has been ascertained that that arises from the big
bone having once been broken.
I find much difficulty in getting Mr. Kift to per-
form any duty. Had twice occasion to speak to him
about purchasing cattle, and after he was induced to
attempt it he never reported the result which I found
afterwards to be unsuccessful.
About one p.m. thermometer 94 in the shade ;
wind rather strong from the south-east. Much diffi-
culty in getting a young ox into the yoke ; forced
to throw him down, tie all his feet and yoke him in
that position. After he was in the yoke he pulled well.
Oouds began to rise towards 4 p.m., and a general
haze pervaded the atmosphere. Towards evening
wind strong from south-east, and chilly ; every ap-
pearance of the approach of rain. Soon after sunset
clouds dispersed, and by midnight quite clear.
1 Scbanaen. Sec map.
 ANDUW SMITH DIAllY

30 DECEMBER (TUESDAY).

Started at daylight and reached False Fontain 1

about i past nine a.m. Till about noon rather chilly ;
sun very powerful at ten ; about midday thermometer
in shade 84. Light winds with occasionally strong
partial gusts. Heat very oppressive. Flies extremely
troublesome, particularly in wagons. Too hot to
grind ; forced to use entire corn. Hottentots prefer
it boiled to rice. Dogs and men seek where they
can escape from the rays of the sun. It is with difficulty
that the former can be kept from under the wagons.
Boers took up their residence here last year and
opened the spring. [It] discharges at present a con-
siderable quantity of water rather brackish and with
a slight sulphurous smell and taste. Few birds seen
since leaving Phillipolis ; CortJ11.r .rcap11/ari.r, Korans;
blue and Bushman Olis coleii. Lizards rare on the
flats ; a few amongst rocks, however. Insects rare.
There were 4 wagons belonging to Boers near this
place left about .z weeks ago ; 4 men also at the
spring about 4 months ago.
A man belonging to Andries Waterboer visited
us at False Fontain near which he has been resident
during the last four months; [he] has lost neither
cattle nor sheep by the Bushmen. Two wild Bushmen
visited him soon after he arrived here and begged
tobacco. When he was wandering about in the fields
a little to the east of his residence some time ago,
three Bushmen came up to him and raised their
hassegays against him with the intention of killing
him. He asked them what he had done that they
i Valachfontcin. See map.
190 ANDREW SMITH DI.ARY

should injure him. They replied " When you get

us you beat us nearly to death ; therefore when we
get you we will kill you." He explained to them that
he knew nothing of them ; that he came from the
Riet River. They let him go. They mistook him for
one of Dam Kok's people who had beaten them.
Andries Hendrick had lost some cattle by Bushmen
and Abel Kok and another man caught these (who
wished to kill the man just mentioned) and beat
them very severely though they were not the thieves.
There is another strong spring near this called
Ontkomins 1 which belonged to Gert Kok who was
killed in Barends' commando. His son now lives
at it. The young locusts have passed over this district
of country hence the grass is so destroyed ; before
they arrived it stood very fine. To the west the grass
is yet good. Ther. aver. day, 34.
3I DECEMBER {WEDNESDAY).

Employed during the early part of the day grinding

corn. About i past one started, and about l past six
reached Blauwe Bank on the Riet River. The i;iver
[is] called by the Griquas, etc., Black Mudder River,
by the Boers Riet River.
Previous to our starting, the Corannas from Boot-
scap,1 as they stated, arrived at our wagons most
of them with led horses, and stated that they were
taking the latter to some of the subjects of Dam Kok
in order that they should recover from the fatigues
of the last hunting season and gain a little flesh.
They appeared very much jaded. They stated that
1 Ontkoming or escape.
1 Boeuap. &; Pettmann, c.• SO#lb Ajrinm Plate Nflllles, Quecmtown,
1931, P· 49·
 ANDREW SMITH DI.ARY

they were of Jan Captain's people who had remained

behind when the majority of the party emigrated with
Mr. Jenkins to Umpokani; that they only delayed
in joining him on hearing how matters went, having
heard that the Caffers in that direction were very
savage and much disposed to murder strangers. A
portion of · the horses they intended leaving with
Willem, the Coranna mentioned as rather rebellious
when we were at Philippolis. They had five good
guns and one of the men was an excellent shot.
Upon asking them if such men as him went against
Masalacatzie how it happened that they could not
conquer him, he replied that it appeared as if that
chief's people did not think they would die or at
least did not fear death, for though many might be
killed they still kept coming on.
Martinus De Toit, Cape Regt., in spite of all the
punishments and warnings I could employ, this day
wandered away from the wagons and arrived at the
outspan place when it was just dark more than an
hour after we reached the spot. Upon being questioned
as to his reason for persevering in a line of conduct
which I had already h.ad occasion to warn him against,
[he] said he was <?nlY "a short way behind" [and]
offered no explanation. This is a most incorrigible
man, by far the worst person of the party.
After proceeding on our journey about 6 miles,
met a party of Griquas from the Vaal River bound to
Phillipolis consisting of about ten or twelve persons.
Two parties of Bushwomen ran across from the north
of the river to the wagons and begged most vehe-
mently for tobacco. One party consisted of six and
the other of four. Two of the first had children on
0
 ANDREW SMITH DIARY

their backs, but when told they might get a little

tobacco if they could reach the wagons which were
on some considerable way in front, it is astonis~
how quickly they ran and got up to them thougli
going at a smart /ace. Three of the second party
were far advance in pregnancy yet ran also with
amazing activity, and that for a very considerable
distance. Oose to where the last party said they
resided our guide Loedwyk 1 on his way to Phillipolis
about ten days ago was chased by a Bushman and
only got out of his way by artifice. Lodwyk is also
a Bushman, but civilised and a subject of Cornelius
Kok's at Campbell. The Hottentots, Bastards and
Griquas are afraid to travel singly and unarmed in
these parts. They state that the Bushmen are very
evilly disposed and will often waylay one or two
persons proceeding along the road. They will not
attack where there is a wagon because they cannot
be certain of what is in it, nor of the weapons with
which the people may be supplied.
About l past nine o'clock the chief Dam Kok
with Hendrick Hendricks arrived at our encampment
having left Phillipolis yesterday at 4 p.m. in a horse
wagon. On the last day which I attended the court of
the chief at Phillipolis, a case was held of the sale of
a Caffer boy to a Boer. The person who possessed
this lad had another which the !armer was also anxious
to get, the last however was not stated as having yet
been sold. The 6.rst was actually at the kraal of
William the Coranna mentioned. William sent for
the owner, Jan, to arrange matters between him and
the Boer named Bad - - h - - st. The latter paid for
the Caffer ten sheep and a roll of tobacco, and the
'Loclcwylr..
 ANDR.EW SMITH DIAl.T

boy was delivered over to him and at the time was

in his possession. Witness William, known to Old
Philip the father of the Field Cornet ; Philip Barend
also to the Field Comet. William gave a place to
Isaac Faber.
J JANUARY (THUllSDAY), J83'.

Started about sunrise and travelled nearly three

hours along the Riet River; halted on its banks to
breakfast. At halting place 11 Bushwomen came to
us, no men ; and they lived on the northern banks
of the river. Begged hard for tobacco; said as I
had so large a beard I must have plenty of tobacco.
The only coverings they wore were a short kaross
which hung a little below the nates and a small
· apron of strips of leather in front of the lower part
of the stomach ; some of the latter were so small
as not to conceal entirely the parts intended to be
covered. Round the neck they had ropes of leather
entwisted nearly as thick as the arm. To the kaross
in front are attached portions of skin, turtles, etc.,
in great abundance. Many of them have leather
thongs encircling the loins, some in one, others in
three or four circles, and each has also a small covering
of sheepskin which hangs over the posteriors and
is fastened in front by a small thong. This reaches
on each side as far forward as a line drawn down the
outside of [the] thi~h from [the] anterior superior
spinous process. This in some of those more marked
by gay dispositions is edged with beads or small
p1eces of iron encircling a thong ; the like covered
thongs they also wear round the lower part of belly.
Some have strings of plaited grass round the neck.
194 ANDllEW SMITH Dl.AR.T

All have round the body hanging a number of bags

of leather of different sizes for untjies, etc.; [they]
also have a large sack on the back in which they carry
various articles. The men, Kok thinks, do not come
from fear ; the women always coming free with the
Boors, they venture.
During the agency of Mr. Melville, Stockenstrom
told Dam he must defend the unarmed Bushmen and
Caffers and he readily consented to do so. Some time
after a kraal of Bushmen on the Hart River having
cattle to perhaps the amount of 600 was attacked by
Chaihip, a Bastard Coranna Bushman and his people,
and the Bushman chief was killed and all his cattle
taken. Dam went to him to desire him to give up
the cattle for the use of the widow and poor children ;
he refused and began to fire upon Dam. The latter
went then to Graaf! Reynet in order to endeavour to
get powder. He got 5 lbs. from Mr. Stockenstrom.
A second time he went [but] on his arrival there
found he was gone and Ruyneld 1 [was] in his place.
The latter told him he could not give him powder ;
it was against the fort order. The farmers going into
the country on all sides of Kok and coming in contact
with the Chaihip's people supplied them with powder
which enabled them to carry away many of his cattle
and horses. The same Chaihip lives on the Mudder
River above Jan Bloom. The same Hottentots stole
horses about to months ago. Hendrick Hendricks
followed them and retook the horses ; he then
moved higher up the river. The horses were from
Leuens van Ever.• Since that [he] took horses from
i Willem Comelis vui Ryneveld, Civil Commissioner of Graaft'-Reinet.
• Poesibly Lourens (?) van dco Heever.
 ANDREW SMITH DIARY

farmers. Hendrick Foss 1 went and took them away.

Chaihip is an honest Coranna ; if he is anxious for
evil he professes it and if for peace he professes it.
Titus was also another of the principals in destroy-
ing the Bushman kraal. Some time ago he was mur-
dered by his own friends; they were angry with him
because he had given up working mischief and taken
up his residence with Dam. They went to seek honey,
made a great quantity of beer, and sent and invited
him to drink. He repaired thither without suspicion,
and when he had drunk largely they struck him with
a long knife in the belly so that the bowels ran out.
On the Mudder are three Hottentots who are always
active in exciting evil: Piet Zeecow, the one that
murdered Titus; Zeecow, Coranna name Tsecan;
3d., Comanqua. They ate all in one kraal, that which
lately took the cattle from Hart River and Tyso.1
The two last were also engaged in the Klip Plaat
robbery. It is not Derhuip, it is Dahuirp] 3 ; the latter
was with the Bushman and lost his cattle at the same
time with the Bushman chief. Perhaps So men
together with weapons. As plundering goes on it
gradually increases. Boers furnish people with arms
and William is a man that agrees well with the farmers
and dislikes the country Govt. and the missionary; he
has two wives and he keeps aloof from the latter
for fear that he shall lose one of his wives or that
he shall be interfered with in that respect. The
Govt. in this land must be so cautious in consequence
of their weakness that with the necessary caution
1 Voe (?).
• Taisho, principal councillor of Mothibi, chief of the Tblaping.
1 Smith fOWKI great dii6culty in 1pcllin1 thia Koruia name to bia IMil-
f~.
 ANDREW SMITH DIARY

they can almost do nothing. The Boers keep such

friends with them and induce them to opposition
in order to make the quiet people leave the country
so that it may be vacant and the Govt. take it and give
it out. Their object is to excite disunion and quarrel-
ling with the Griquas in order to have cause to
report them to Govt. as bad people and cause it
to put them down. They determined to be quiet and
let evil doers alone and not to meddle with them
because to do so was just like setting a fire brand to
their own house, they having no means of protecting
themselves.
The Bushwomen that visited the wagons had each
a cap on the head made of the skin of some animal,
the fur or hair inside and regularly turned up in front
when not edged with beads or iron on thongs. Some
of them wore steenbok skins, others the red cat,
one or two had beads round the neck and the karosses
margined in various places with rows thereof. All
they begged was tobacco, none asked for anything
else. Each had sandles fixed on the feet ; a loop
admitted the toe next the great one, a loop was
also attached to the hinder part of the sole and a
piece of rim 1 was carried through that and then
twisted with another piece which passed through
the toe-loop and tied in front of the foot. Their cap
karosses were formed of sheep skin. One woman
pulled the cal> off her head and placed it in one of
the bags, beUlg too hot, and continued with the
head exposed to the powerful sun. That woman had
all the hair cut short except a little in the shape of
a horse-shoe upon the fore part of the head reaching
till near the crown. Not one well made. Used red
 ANDREW SMITH DIAllT

clay to adom the face. Very anxious for [fat] to grease

the body. One got a little, smeared it upon the palms
of the hands, and with the greatest indifference rubbed
it over her thighs and upon the insides thereof close
to the pubis in presence of all the party by the £re.
They have a degree of delicacy as when they seat
themselves they always take care to turn in the
apron below them ; sit usually with the backs of
the legs drawn back to the hinder parts of the thighs,
knees consequently very high.
Reached about t past six p.m. the kraal of Gert
Buykes 1 on the banks of the Riet River. Several
small kraals, some of Caffers under the frotection of
Cornelius Kok, this being a portion o the country
given up to him to govem. Found at this kraal
7 wagons belonging to the people of Kok which
had been to the pan for salt. A portion of the Coranna
Bushmen and one real Coranna that had taken Matebe's
councillors' cattle and those from the Hout River is
now residing with the Lynx kraal, and Gert Stoffel
who gave me this information said that he heard it
was their intention to live there. They use guns.
They have the manner of living of the Cora 1 and not
of the Bushmen. There is one who is chief of the
party, Goroquon. 1 There shall be• about .zo men;
they are l>etween Lynx kraal and Dahoi where we
passed. They were lower upon the Modder River
[but] have since moved up. The Lynx kraal asked
these people " Why do you come here. You have
wrought worry and therefore you are foul. You,
by coming amongst men who have done no worry,
t Buyakcs.
1 Kora. or Kemna.
I Thia chief' cannot be cnccd.
• ThUI in MS.
 ANDREW SMITH DIAllY

make them also in fault." Those formerly belonged

to the Lynx kraal and the Captain intends to permit
them to remain again if they give up 1 the stolen cattle.
He told Gert that he was prepared to give up the
cattle. Thinks there was a considerable quantity of
cattle. They fled up in consequence of being afraid
that the Caffers should follow them. Many of the
Hottentots who are regularly brought up at missionary
institutions are in reality much worse characters
(though they for a time pass for good ones) than the
more ignorant. Their opportunities have enabled
them to exercise more caution and deceit in dis-
guising their evil propensities and practices, and their
oadness is not discovered in consequence until
they have been some considerable time under ob-
servation. When only seen for a short time they pass
as superior disposed persons and in this way their
characters are often raised to the prejudice of them
who have less knowledge of the arts of disguising.
I have in many instances discovered this and we
have now a very marked one in a man of our party
named Andries from Gnadenthal. 1 His manner is
good and his tongue is voluble ; he appears at first
a well disposed man but when the caution which is
necessary to disguise flags his bad propensities begin
to be discovered by degrees. One day I happened
to observe him reading the Bible and said u I am
glad to see you so well employed." From that time
he was constantly so employed when he had spare
time. This went on till I began to discover some of
his improper acts and had occasion to admonish
1 MS. hu " ofl'."
• Gawfenthal, the Moravian Miuioo Station in the Western Proviru:e,
founded in 179.z.
 .ANDREW SMITH DIARY

him thereover. He then immediately desisted from

reading the Bible and so attempting to blindfold me.
The after kaross in most instances has the hair re-
moved from its middle parts upon which they usually
sit, and left existin~ on the sides which envelope the
outsides of the thighs. I mean in the Buchuanna
women, so:

The Buchuannas have a different way of fixing their

sandals to the Bushmen ; they have no loop round
the second toe, the thong is brought through between
the great and next toe so :

c::>
.Z JANUARY (FRIDAY).

Gert Hoyman was the person who went to Water-

boer ; it arose from his having punished his brother
according to his idea unjustly. The said brother went
with his father, old Pict Hoyman, to the school
under Jan Hoyman, a nephew of Piet, and some time
afterwards returned with his wagon to Griqua
Town. There he went and took up his abode with
Jacob Cloete, and as soon as Waterboer knew that
he called together a portion of his people and sc:Ued
Jantjie Hoyman, threw him down and beat him very
severely with a stick. They were dancing at the time.
The Berganheers were at that time lying at the
Skans 1 and from thence the party went to Watet-
bocr. They returned after having settled the matter
t SchaJucn. ~ map.
.zoo ANDREW SMITH DIARY

through the interference of Cupido Kok ; they re-

turned to the Skansi. It was the intention of Gert
Hoyman to throw Waterboer also down and beat
him as he had beaten his brother. Cupido's advice,
however, was taken and that went to prevent it.
They unite in stating that when Waterboer first was
constituted a chief he was without experience, head-
strong and fiery to the extreme; that wherever he
thought blame lay he punished without inquiry
just upon mere belief. That excited so much dis-
content. Adam Kok, Abram Kok and Hendrick
Hendricks now admit that experience has altered him
greatly, and that he is now what they say a " real
man." Hendrick admits that the steps he took were
many of them unwarrantable, that he was young and
without experience and entered upon a p~culu
line in which he persevered without deviation, right
or wrong. Many did like him, not so much that they
were conscious of the justice of the case as that
their feelings having led them in a moment of irri-
tation to undertake it ; they were blind from the
commencement to reason, and only followed the
dictates of passion. Thinks that all old affairs ought
to be buried and that amends ought to be made for
past evils by an exemplary conduct in future. Each
successive generation as they advance in civilisation
will more and more perceive the propriety of such
a course.
Hendrick is a man endowed with much natural
talent and to that is added a very tolerable proportion
of acquired knowledge. He is the most intelligent
Hottentot I have ever met ; an original thinker,
and if well managed might be made a most useful
member of society. Some days ago he astonished me
 ANDREW SMITH DIARY 201

with some remarks concerning the proceedings of

the Govt. functionaries. He said the Commissioners
steal daily the character of the English Government ;
they bar the good intentions of the Govt. up at the
Colonial boundary ; they construct there an insur-
mountable barrier which effectually encloses them and
prevents them from having the influence and benefit
which they are well calculated to produce. He then
went on to instance how that really was the conse-
quence. Such an oration would have done no dis-
credit to the British House of Commons, and I am
sure had it been delivered there it would have p.ro-
duced a sensation far beyond what even the most
eloquent pen could have excited, if wielded by any
but a person who had actually laboured under the
smart arising from ill directed policy.
Travelled neatly along to the south bank of the
Riet River, a distance of about 3 miles. Met wagons
from Campbell, and from the people with them heard
that the Vaal River was full. Abram Kok was with
them, and as I wished to get some information from
him we halted for the night. Another of Mr. Bain's
men was with this party and stated to me his great
anxiety to go with us. I declined lest he might on
arrival in Masalacatzie's country be recognized by
some Caffer or other as one of the persons who had
been of the party upon which they had fallen. 1 The
1 Bain had left the Expedition at Philippolis and had travelled direct to
Kuruman and thence towards Mzilikazi's kraal. But, unfortunately, some
of his Hottentots had stolen cattle belonging to the Matabele chief, and in
consequence the Matabele seiud Bain's waggons and goods, while he him-
self had to fly for his life. He wrote to Dr. Smith from Campbell, wamin~
him of the danger. The whole story appears in a reprint of a long commuru-
cation which Bain sent to Owe in C&pe Town, in Andrew Steedman'•
Wllllllnitfgs ond Atlvtntrtrrs bl IM lllllrior of Sotd!Jml Afr*-, London, 11,,,
Vol. ii, P· u,, " SllJ.
101 ANDREW SMITH DIAR.Y

same reason induced me to make the same refusal

to the two we saw yesterday.
3 JANUARY (SATURDAY).

About i past one started and travelled parallel with

the river to False Fonteyn 1 where we found a
party of Bastards living who belonged to Waterbocr.
But -little grass.
Africaner, the famous Namaqualand freebooter,
was a bastard Bushman in the service of Piet Pinnear.1
The latter, together with Arnoldus Pinnear, was in
the habit of cohabiting with the wives of his sons,
and of the other Hottentots in their service. On
this account they always kept them from home ;
no sooner did they return from performing one duty
than they were dispatched on some other. After a
time they got so enraged with that conduct that they
declared their intention to shoot both. The old
man counselled them against such a proceeding but
they persisted and even threatened to kill him. He
found them fixed in their purpose, and seeing that
the opportunity was about to offer by the two being
preparmg to start on a visit [to] where the attempt
was to be made, fled from the place, first warning
them to be careful how they proceeded, considering
that Piet was a very remarkable good shot. They
waylaid them and succeeded in shooting Piet; the
other escaped. All then fled and in the Hight fell in
with the old man who joined them. They took a
I V alscbfontein, See map.
1 This well-known 1tory may be compared with the early •enion in
Rev. John Campbell'& Tr0111Js;,, Solll/J Afriia (Fint Journey), London, 181j,
PP· H4-m· Sec also Frankc:n. ]. L. M., D_i,,,..Dt11botkl, Kaapstad, 19,s,
PP· u5-zs+
 ANDREW SMITH DI.ARY

direction towards the Orange River and then began

to murder and plunder whenever they could. This
was the same Pict Pinnear who with Jan Bloom took
the cattle from the Caffers at Langeberg. Africaner
on that occasion was with him. Another party of
plunderers once visited this district composed of
farmers, etc. Adrian Van Zyl was chief; with him
were Jan Vice,1 Pretoris Van Zyl, Andries Van Zyl,
2 sons, Paul Englebri~ht 1 and Gert Englebright, two
bastard sons of a William Englebright of Kamiesberg
by a Hottentot woman. They, the Dutch, represented
that they were going on a trading journey and got
the two last to go with them under that belief. When
they reached the Vaal River just about where it and the
Modder River unite, they came to the kraal of
Tybosch 1 who at the time was engaged in a war with
Philip, another Coranna. The former got them to
join him to attack Philip. Gert Englebright pre-
tended sickness and the other prayed to be allowed
to remain in charge of him. Paul covered him up
with karosses and got him very warm and into a
state of perspiration before he gave information of his
sickness so as to make to be believed that he was
really unwell. They both therefore remained behind.
The commando went out and took 1200 head of
cattle from Philip ; the Colonial party carried them
all off. On their way home, Jan Bloom stole a portion
from them. Jan Vice followed, caught him and beat
him severely and took back the cattle. Adrian Van
Zyl and Jan Vice were banished from the Colony.
Prctoris in consequence of being married was con-
l Wiete•
• Eftgelbrecht.
a Tuibolch.
204 ANDREW SMITH DIA.RT

sidered from under the control of his father and was

therefore sent to Robben Island. Andries not [being]
married was regarded as being subject to obey the
order of his father [and] was dismissed. The latter,
owing [to] the absence of the elder brother, seduced
his wife and on his return from the Island he carried
her off altogether and now lives with her in the
Hantam. Piet Bloom augurs to be a better disposed
person according to all accounts than Jan. Adrian
Van Zyl at the time he stole the cattle was a Field
Comet. Piet Pinnear at the time he was killed was a
Field Cornet. All the other Field Comets were afraid
of him, and from that having been the case Yager
Africaner and the others considered it was useless
to complain of him concerning their wives and there-
fore determined upon the step they took.

4 JANU.ilY (SUNDAY).

Very hot and sultry during the day. Prayers were

read in the evening when the people of the kraal
attended and also the party witli the Captain Adam
Kok.
j JANUARY (MONDAY).

Started about sunrise from False Fonteyn and

reached the Kamelboomen in about two hours
where we halted for breakfast. Country still very
dry, but still some grass. Visited by some Buchuaimas
who reside here and who brought two boks, a hare
and a muishond for sale. A good deal of thunder in
the forenoon.
 ANDREW SMITH DIARY ZOj

White Circus shot upon a tree. The brunet (Bracl!J-

p11s) with red vent shot here and its nest with three
young found upon a kamel tree. This bird whistles
well. A Geko without tail found under the bark of
a decaying kamelboom. A Geko which cries very
much towards and in the early part of the evening
is very abundant about False Fonteyn but I was not
able to get one. It resembles in its noise the species
found near Sylver Fonteyn ; it keeps in the ground
during the day and only ventures out in search of
its food at night. The noise is heard in every direc-
tion, but when the spots where they are heard are
approached it instantly is discontinued. Hottentots
say they keep under the rocks. I was told the No .•. ,1
was the reptile, doubtful.
6 JANUARY (TUESDAY).

Started from the Modder River about 3 p.m. and

reached the Vaal River about ten p.m. The road
nearly the whole way with a deep coating of sand
which rendered it very laborious for tne oxen.
Several Caffer kraals consisting of Buchuans living
along the south side of the river all have a terrible
dread of Masalacatzie ; his name alone seems suffi-
cient to terrify them. They all advise our not going
there, declaring that he will certainly murder us all.
On our arrival at the river we found it slightly
flooded. The heat was very extreme ; during the
greater part of the day the thermometer was standing
at 98. But little wind which rendered it still more
oppressive. Every animated being seemed to suffer
from the heat. Our dogs appeared scarcely able to
1 No number givm.
2o6 ANDREW SMITH DI.ART

get along the road ; they rushed from one bush to

another with their tongues hanging out of their
mouths and their sides panting as if in the last stage
of existence. The heat of the sand seemed to be also
severely felt by their feet ; they searched with the
greatest avidity to find a cool place upon which they
could stand during the heat of the day. Not a bird
was seen to move, and if by accident they were
disturbed in the shade whither they had resorted
they flew directly to another dense thicket to shelter
themselves from the searching rays which they were
unable to withstand when without the bush. Little
or no grass near to the river.

7 - JANU.ARY (WEDNESDAY).

This morning many specimens of P/111Jian11.t tZr111tZl11s

B. were seen running along the low ledges near the
margin of the stream ; their eyes are deep red and
the edges of the eyelids are also red, legs black.
One example of Af&ipiter gabar was also shot this
morning.
When Cornelius Kok was returning from Phillipolis
he met in his road Pict Bartman who had about 6
of his fee 1 in charge. Having whilst at Phillipolis
heard that he had headed a commando against some
Caffers and stolen cattle from them, he enquired
about the cattle. He, Piet, said all the cattle excepting
one cow which had calved in the interim, and which
they were holding for milk, had been killed and eaten.
Cornelius then told them they must give that up, to
which they agreed, and said they would bring it to
Smith uses the word fee in its original semc, meaning cattle.
 .ANDREW SMITH DI.ARY

Campbell. He never, however, brought it. Cornelius

then sent his son with four men to demand it and also
to bring off his sheep. Pict Bartman, he would rather
pawn his life than give it up. Jan Bushman, who
was one of the party, said he would spill his blood
sooner than give it up, and the son of Oaas Bartman
said " Sec, there is my head ; unless Captain Kok
comes and cuts it off he shall not have the cow ;
if he does that he may have cow, head and all."
They gave up Cornelius' cattle, and the party returned.
C. called together about thirty men and sent them to
sec what they could accomplish, but by the time
they had arrived the Bushmen, expecting an attack,
retired to the side of a valley at some distance from
their old residence and so fortified it that no impression
could be made upon them. A few shots were fired
on each side and one of C's men was wounded with
a musket ball through the hand. Thus ended this
attempt. It was just the time when the cattle were
very poor and the horses scarcely workable, so he
determined upon delaying for a time. In the mean
time he went to Dam to see if he could not get a
little powder. When he saw the horses bacf im-
proved a little by the new grass he repaired again to
their place and came UJ?<>n them suddenly so that
they had not time to .resist. They then gave up their
guns and got permission from Cor[nelius] to continue
there. Some months after he got an order to move
them. He found Piet Bartman between Zwarte Rivier 1
and Modder River. Three men. When he came up
to him he was much alarmed and attempted no
.resistance. He offered no entreaties to be let go ;
he appeared quite paraHsed. Several of the young
' The Upper Otmge lUvcr.
p
.208 ANDREW SMITH DIARY

people accused Piet Bartman and K.ahutchie, whilst

in possession of C. Kok, as having led them to this
state. One boy was present who had been on the
commando to the Colony, and upon Kok asking
him why he went on a commando, he being up,
he r~~:1 " K.ahutchie was always upbraidirig lie
and t · g him he never so useless a Bushman boy."
Annoyed at such constant ridicule he thereupon
went on the commando. During the time between
the first and second commando of Cornelius they
committed the murders in the Colony, and when he
fell upon them the second time they were weakened
by die loss they bad sustained by the commando
of Michael Niewkirk.1 Several articles belonging to
the persons murdered were found in their possession
and were sent in with 4 witnesses to Graaff Reynet.
Hendrick Hendricks heard that Jan Bushman, the
worst of the patty, was in the service of Barend
Levenbcrg 1 of Uitvlught, then resid/::ffi on this side
of the Black River a day from P · 'polis to the
north. He stated that he knew that Bushman was
one of the murderers, and that it was his intention
to have given him over one day to old Kok. When
Hendrick brought him from Abel Kok's place to
Lcvenberg, he asked him where he had got the
Hottentot. Hendrick told him that he had taken him
into confinement in consequence of his being one
of the murderers. He acknowledged he knew it,
and that he had been in his employ abOut two months ;
1 Micbul Tall Niewkuk, Field C.Omet. ot Duivenau's Poateln. See
Bac:khouee, A N"""IJrN of" Visil lo I/JI M-1#1t.r .,J Sllllli Aj,.;,,,,, London,
1844, P• 476•
• Liebccbetg. See Tbeal, G. M., Hu/Dry of Slllll/J Afr* (IIJ4-t1,4),
London. tlH. Licbcnbeq'e Pac le betwwim Pamcsmitl:i and Luckhel;
it is north of Phillppalie.
 ANDREW SMITH DIAllY 2.Q9

that he had had orders from Mr. Rcyneveld to send

him to Graaf£ Reynct if he could find him ; that he
had told Field Comet M. Niewkirk that he had
him; and he again observed his intention was one
day to have given him over to Old Kok.

8 JANT.JAR.Y (THURSDAY).

The greatest cold of last night was 63. Very hot

this morning.
Eyes of Ni/am typitm bright red, brown, the colours
clearest round pupil ; was shot upon a tree on the
Vaal River. Lacerta, No. 61, Male: colour of back
and sides red brown with an indistinct series of dull
white or yellowish white spots along each side of
back more or less distinctly encircled by a black
brown irregular ring ; outside of each of these rows
a pretty clear white line which commences close to
hindhead and is discontinued before it reaches the
tail ; below this stripe on side a more or less perfect
row of white. dots surrounded by a dark cofour as
on back ; beneath this another narrow white line
commencing just behind tympanum and ending at
anterior part of hinder leg ; below this a waved
stripe of the same colour as back, somewhat scalloped
tail, red brown freckled with small black specks,
head above the same ground colour finely and freely
freckled with black points, sides the same ; upper
lip greenish yellow, here and there freckled with
black ; chin and belly dull white lead colour with a
slight pearly gloss under ; tail white with a faint
reddish: tint ; fore legs li$ht brownish yellow, much
freckled with minute white dots ; hinder legs pale
reddish brown or brownish yellow, closely freckled
.UO ANDJlEW SMITH DIAllT

with black, and besides spotted with dull white ;

insides of all legs like bClly ; lower eyelid only
movable, and the portion thereof which lies orposite
the pupil when it 1s closed is transparent, pupi large,
iris yellowish white, eyelids yellowish white ; tongue
not in a sheath, flesh colour, deeply forked at front
where it is cartilaginous. Male,1 a variety : colour of
back and sides dull reddish brown, from hindhead
along centre of back a narrow stripe for nearly a
half inch then lost, on each side of that is another
blackish line which gets interrupted as it proceeds
backwards ; this line is in contact with a dull white
line which reaches nearly the base of tail, beneath
this line the prevailing colour is black brown, with
an imperfect line of small yellowish white spots,
beneath that again an9ther yellow white line, lost
before it reaches the tail, a~ain another brownish
band like one above white line with similar spots,
beneath that a clear white fine line beginning at
tympanum and ending before thigh, immediately
beneath that some fine brick red or vermillion mark-
ings; tail above dull pale brown red with but little
freckling of black ; chin and belly as in male ; •
tympanum half-moon convexity behind; the tail in
this species very long and tapering. Amongst stones
near Modder River and Vaal River, also on flats.
Motion very rapid. This lizard appears subject to
great variety as regards its markings. One specimen
14 femoral pores one side, 1 s the other, another
14 each side; abdominal plates row[s] 9. Lacerta,
No. 63 : Colour of top of head brown with a slight
i ' Mak ' was originally written • female,' but Smith croued out the
fimt two letten.
• Smith bu left thia appaimt contradiction.
 ANDREW SMITH DIAllY 211

admixture of red ; top of back and sides red with a

sli~ht admixture of brown or brown red ; tail rather
a lighter tint, with the addition in the mixture of a
little yellow ; sides of head behind eye and of body
with yellowish vertical stripes cutting the brown
red on the sides, each of those vertical stripes mar-
gined on sides and top with black beneath lower
ends of the side stripes ; a white line from fore to
hinder legs with an irrc~ blackish spot under it,
below lower extremity of each yellow vertical stripe.
The vertical stripes arc discontinued about i an inch
before tail, and in their place arc some irregular
black spots along sides of tail for better than an
inch from root ; a line of black stripes also some black
dots between stripes of tail, fore legs pale brown
red freckled witli some yellowish freckles ; toes
uniform light yellow red ; hinder legs the same
ground colour with the yellow white freckles, and
besides a variety of :fine waved short black lines ;
hinder feet as fore feet ; 11 femoral pores each side ;
6 rows of abdominal plates, two centre rows narrowest;
on each side of outermost row a row of smaller plates
approaching to scales, but rather larger than scales,
somewhat quadwwtlar ; beneath white lead colour
with a gloss ; taif long and tapering, immediately
over the upper extremities of vertical lines of sides
a longitudirial row of yellow spots beginning at
hindhcad and terminating near the middle of body,
some of them partially edged with black. Amongst
bushes near Vaal River. Highest 101 ther.
9 JANUAP.Y (PIUDAY).
Last night thermometer at lowest 61. In wagon
to-day 118, in sun about three p.m. 1.0, during most
.U.i ANDREW SMITH DIARY

of the day in shade 102. Yesterday little change in

the state of the river; during last night began to
rise and by the morning several inches fuller than
yesterday ; rose about two feet during the day
very gradual.
Batclapins 1 when a father dies the eldest will
if he fancies any of the wives of his father take her,
and the children he has by them are considered his
brother's children; he has value enough from her
labour. They have a law that the breast of an eland
must be given up to the captain.
Hendrick Hendricks' plan for overcoming the
Coranna kraal that has stolen Matabee's • cattle.
Found a party of Bushmen to carry away the cattle
and the commando to be close at hand. The Bushmen
to drive them towards it, and when the Corannas follow
the commando to fall upon them. When a few of a
party of Corannas are once taken the rest appear
quite disheartened. Another plan to assemble the
Caffers together and set them 111 on the kraal about
daylight ; dislikes this plan because the Caffers
woula kill without distinction men, women and
children. Had a plan to get the Corannas into a
snarl• by sending a quantity of spirits and letting them
drink till perfectly intoxicated, then to fall upon them
with a commando. Says the Corannas are very deep
and cunning in any matters in which they are them-
selves engaged, but they have little thought or fore-
sight in discovering or perceiving the machinations
of others. Best to get them on the open fiat, hence
glad to induce them first to fly from their fixed
l Thla . .
1
I M:f the Thlaping chi.d'.
A -.re or mp.
 ANDREW SMITH DIARY

residence. When at their fixed residence should they

have reason to suspect any attacks they make holes
in the ground into which they creep, or fortifications
in the hills, and fire from the one or other of these.
Says it [is] good that the Caffers remain ignorant of
the use of firearms, because if they were to under-
stand them well they would soon master all the
civilised people, they are so numerous.

IO JANUARY (SATURDAY).

The Griquas consider it very fortunate to have

wives that give birth to twins. Those who have
large families consider themselves lucky. A man one
day grinding corn at Phillipolis remarked that the
English were the most lazy people in the world; that
they made the wood, the wind and the fire work for
them and they sat still and did nothing. He said
" If I were an Englishman, I should not this day have
to stand and work as I now do." Here I met a sort
of chief named •..•.• 1 of the Batclapin, a most
arrant beggar. I endeavoured to put him to shame,
but I was quite unsuccessful ; he from day to day
persevered in the same strain. Hendrick says that the
idea of these people is that the white people are so
powerful and rich that they can with propriety ask
anything they want from them. They do not beg in
the same way from the Griquas, though they trouble
them a good deal for tobacco.
When everything was in a state of disorder Dr.
Philip arrived at Griqua Town and had a meeting of
the Griqua chiefs consisting of Adam Kok, Cornelius
I No DamC given.
.2.14 ANDREW SMITH DIARY

Kok, Waterboer and Barend about 1 h s, and an

agreement was entered upon that yearly they should
assemble and regulate the general affairs of the
nation, hear cases of murder, etc. It was also agreed
that if a man belonging to either chief should wish
to leave one chief to another that a written pass
should be ~tcd and without such a pass it should
not be received. Soon after that a man named Lindert
Balle i moved off from the district of Kok on preten-
tion of being going on a journey and he immediately
repaired to Griqua Town. Waterboer received him
without pass. After this a murder occutred and
Dam was never called. The Berghaners stood up
again and went off down the Modder River and took
all the cattle of the Corannas. Waterboer was informed
of their intentions and his union with Kok was re-
quested. He paid no attention to the request, but was
once seen amongst them exchanging articles. He
then gave several passes to go to the Colony. He
caught six and hung them. The chiefs of the party
he allowed to escape. Hoyman was a cousin of his.
The Merops flies like a swallow, but soars more
and does not keep up so constant an action with the
wings as the swallow. It often skims along the waters
of a river towards evening, and is generally found
resorting to country where trees or shrubs abound
and ~articularly to the vicinity of rivers. Through
the att it has an undulating course like the swaJlow,
but not so frequent in its turns and does not remain
so much in the same situation ; it flies onwards from
one part of the country to another.
1 Lenaart Balle, a Bushman teacher from Griquatown. See Backhouse,
J., A N•ralilll of a Visit to tht MtlllridNS fJlld Soldb Afrita London, 1844,
P· 473·
 ANDREW SMITH DIARY

The Hottentots are particularly addicted to intro-

ducing extraneous matter with their narrations.
Thus one, speaking of a district of country con-
ccrnins which I was enquiring, stated that there were
fountains at such and such a place ; " three [?], said
he, where I was bitten by a lion." On another occasion,
speaking of a place where he had been, he said it was
about midday when they reached it, which remark
was quite foreign to the subject of our conversation.
It is absolutely necessary to prevent people taking
up their abode in places where they cannot cultivate
tlie land and have a tolerable supply of grass, as
without those the property must gradually diminish
and at last recourse to replenish will be had to thieving.
There is an inclination to possess clothes, and till
they acquire country where they can breed sufficient
to produce cattle to exchange to purchase them, they
will get diminished and a~ain must be replenished.
Thinks that the missionaries are more disposed to
patronise the Buchuannas as the Griquas. It must
be expected that when people attain a certain know-
ledge they begin to exercise their own thinking
faculties and they may often be wrong, but such is
nevertheless to be expected in the progress of civilisa-
tion. All that is said in relation to their not culturing
or building is answered by " We do not know that
we are to continue owners of the country.,, A dis-
position was at one time evinced by the Pinnears to
assert something like independence, but now they
are quiet enough. They were active in stealing
cattle from the Batclapins which took refuge amongst
the Griquas, and on one occasion they carried off
the missionaries, cattle with them ; most of the
latter were returned excepting those they had bartered
u6 ANDREW SMITH DIARY

previous to it having been known that they were the

property of Mr. Kolbe. The thieves were never
punished, which arose in a great measure from the
Govt. fearing the party. By the same party Whittle 1
was robbed. They seized him, bound him to bis
wagon and took out of it all they wished. Excuse :
that he was going to Masalacatzie with arms and
ammunition. Also he had a gun with him which
Mahura 1 had taken from a party of the Berghaners
which he had destroyed when on a plundering expe-
dition, and they conceived that he had had it to
Graham's Town to be repaired. Piet Labar once
brought a complaint against a man for having be-
witched and poisoned his son ; the court would not
find him guilty. He then proceeded to take the law
into his own hands and got a party together in order
to seize the man and put him to death.
I I JANUARY (SUNDAY).

Dam Kok together with his party left us this

afternoon for Phillipolis. Sent a packet of letters
by him for Cape Town. Wrote to Peter David to
request that the commando should not go against
Masalakatzie at least whilst we were in that direction.
Delayed service till the evening in consequence of
the heat of the weather ; several Caffers Joined us
on that occasion. Thermometer fell last night to 6s.
J 1 }ANUAB.T {MONDAY).

During the 14 hours the river has fallen 4! inches.

Saw some specimens of An.rtr Gambien.ris ,· stands very
1 Wbitde, the trsder who visited the Liml>C>po in 1852.
I Malnua, • 11hapiq chief, and brother or Motbibi. He origimlly liftd
It KununlD.
 ANDREW SMITH DIAllY

high on the legs ; is very wild ; sits on the water,

also walks in the water. It seems to prefer the short
green grassy plots on the sides of the river and on the
islands in the river. The Rhi11apo111astMS S111ithii eats
larva of Papillionid111 and spiders ; found upon the
trees along the banks of the river (Vaal). No. 68 1
shot upon some stones near the Vaal River ; several
together flies from one stone to another. No. 69 shot
also on Vaal River. The common sparrow occurs
but not in any numbers. The Saxi&ola fa111ilari.r
also found amongst bushes and on stony places.
The number of wild geese is very great and at present
some have young ones. When the old ones are with the
young they will not fly off and leave them though
fired at. The common steenbok common here.
CorvMS .rtaplllat11.r also abundant; ..•.•. 1 and ...... •
also seen. Upon the river the Ardea tinerea common.
The Cap. pettorali.r shot near to the river. T11rd#S
o/wtXetU also seen, La111protorni.r niten.r likewise.
Hinmtio f"lljrifro11.1 very common skimming along
the water. Pound for the first time this morning a
fine species of BlljJre.rti.r with yellow white on back
and belly upon tlie common Mi1110.ra which is just
coming into flower. Thermometer at three o'clock in
the sun 142, in the shade 102; last night fell to ss
in my wagon; during most of the day 102 and at
one time as high as 110 ; nights delightful.
13 JANUARY (TUESDAY).

LlpMS 70 : Colour of back and sides rusty yellow

panelled with black on the sides and back and on
• Thac numbers appu:cndy refer to s~.
I Thia word ia di£6cWt to decipher ; It may be ff Gtebe. H
• Thls word le undecipbcnblil.
 ANDREW SMITH DIARY

back of head ; a white circle round eyes and a yellow

rusty line obliquely up sides of neck ; tail black above
white beneath ; limbs very slender ; rusty yellow
sides of feet, nearly ferruginous ; insides of limbs
near body, breast and anterior part of belly white
with a pale buff, but hinder part of belly clear white;
ears very long, front pale rusty, pencilled with black ;
tips of cars outside black ; whiskers partly white
partly black ; lip bumps very strongly marked ;
hinder legs not quite so long in proportion as in the
other hares of South Africa ; stature small ; length
about 16 inches. Inhabits arid country along banks of
Vaal River.
Thermometer during most of the day 1o6 in the
'6
shade, 1 in the sun. During last night 70 lowest.
Last night about 10 p.m. wind began to blow strong
from th.e N.N.E. Afternoon of this day thunder at a
great distance to the N.E.; lightening to the cast
towards dusk. Wind came on to blow strong about
1 o this evening and the sky overclouded. River has
not fallen during the last 14 hours more than an inch
and a half.

14 JANUARY (WEDNESDAY).

Thermometer last night 73 ; at noon in shade 1 u.

Oouds arising to the N.B. from whence the wind
blows very hot.
Matcbec's Caffers prefer clothing to any other
articles of barter, evince anxiety for hats, waistcoats,
etc., and seem to have no desire for beads. Few
observed wearing them ; only the more aged people
who still adhere to the old dress. There is nothing of
 AND'llEW SMITH DIAJ.Y 219

awkwardness in the appearance of these CaHers when

clothed, in that respect differing from most Caffcrs
I have seen. The Batclapin are considered better
caross makers than any of the other tribes, and with
them those are common articles of traffic.
A specimen of Dilophtls ga//illlllllll shot this morn-
ing. M1ropJ apia.rl1r very common along the banks
of the river. The hare No. 70 is very light coloured
before the tail. Towards evening a great uproar
occurred amongst the small birds on a tree near
the river upon which the Hottentots immediately
declared a snake was there. They repaired thither
and soon discovered a Cobra 'ap1//o winding up a
branch which was immediately shot. Its ground
colour was brown variegated on the back and sides
with pale buff and black stripes, the belly between
red and orange ; fangs small, body long and slender.
River falling very slowly. Thunder towards the
south-west with the appearance of heavy rain in
that direction towards evening, also lightening in
the north and some heavy clouds. Thermometer
during most of the day 106 in the shade. Wind
principally from the N. and N.N.E., sometimes very
strong; several times gusts from the south-west
towards evening but those of short duration. The
thunder heard was very distant.
Got this day a new species of Lanim with the belly
speckled with greenish black dots upon a white
ground with coppery reflections. CaHers brought
several cat skin karosses for sale. All wished for
clothes, principally hats ; buttons in much repute for
their trousers ; few jackets amongst them. Generally
dre5sed in leather trousers without any covering
110 ANDREW SMITH DIARY

for the upper parts of the body. Use braces to keep

the trousers up made of leather.
I j JANUARY (THUR.SD.AT).

River has fallen but little during the last 24 hours.

Thermometer in shade 109; lowest during last
night 71. Clouds very dense to the N.E. and the
Caffers say rain is falling towards the sources of the
river in great abundance. Say if the river comes
now down it will be very full and a long time [before]
it be passable.
16 JANUARY (FRIDAY).

During last 14 hours river fell z.l inches. Heavy

clouds to the N.E. Determined upon endeavouring to
pass the river. Got one wagon loaded with swimmers
and entered higher up than the reJtU].ar ford in order
to have to descend a good deal bctore arriving at the
spot where the exit was to be made. Wagon got over
pretty well, upper edge of hinder wheels just visible
above the water. Oxen could scarcely swim the stream.
Sent in one loaded ; got through well. Another,
my own, also got through though with difficulty.
Another followed well. The next upset on entering
the river ; everything wet. Amongst other articles
it contained a quantity of powder thoroughly wet.
Sugar almost quite dissolved. Sent an empty wagon
over to get the goods which were in the one which
upset, the tang being broken. Just before dark we
finished. Made a float in the forenoon but [it] would
not work on account of the strength of the river.
One of the wagons stuck fast in the mud close to the
water's· edge and could not be got out.
 ANDRl'!.W SMITH DIARY 111

17 JANUARY (SATURDAY).

At daylight got the wagon out and commenced

unpacking articles and drying them. With the excep-
tion of the powder and sugar nothing damaged.
When I left the three wagons on the south side I
gave most positive orders that in no one wagon
was more than one case of powder to be ·sent over
for fear of accident but the order was not attended
to by Mr. . .....1 who was in charge. I went over as
the most dangerous part was at the opposite side.
The stream runs there so strong and the oxen, tired,
were less able to stand against it.
/flt'lllN.J, No. 74 : colour pale laylock1 with a black-
ish line along centre of back, in the middle of it a fine
faint yellow stripe ; on each side of body a broad
black green or liard purple line margined above and
below with black, and over the top margin a faint
somewhat interrupted red line ; below each lateral
stritJC two lines of red dots, the uppermost most
dist10.ct ; belly white along the centre with a slight
yellow tint ; the .red spots end where the tail begins ;
eye bright red ; top of head .rather darker than back,
and with a greenish tint ; pupil circular ; form
quadrangular ; head ovate and broader than neck ;
tail tapering, fine pointe.d.

18 JANUARY (SUNDAY).

Two messengers from Matebie arrived this morning

with orders to entreat of us to visit him. He sent
We>.rd that he was sorry about what had passed in
1 No aame .glvm.
I Obsolcflc and clialcct fonn o( ' lilac.•
222 AN?>llE'W SMITH DIAllT

relation to a guide. He let me know that they were

not his words, and as a proof of his anxiety to sec
us he had sent persons to show the road. Several
persons arrived with karosscs for sale, and all seemed
ashamed when they were told that Sunday was not
a day for traffic. All know the day and one said when
questioned as to the propriety of selling articles on
that day that it was correct but soon after that it was
not correct. I rebuked him on the subject ; he then
said he heard but could say nothing. Service towards
evening.
19 JANUARY (MONDAY).

Started at daylight and travelled along the edge of

the river for about five miles, then halted, passed a
large kraal belonging to Leminu at a little distance
from the river. Road very bad and covered with
rolled stones. Morning cool. In the afternoon
travelled about three hours over a similar road
close to the river ; saw some straggling Caffcr
Juaals on the cast side of the river belonging to
Tysho 1 the principal councillor of Matebie.
20 JANUARY (TUESDAY).

There being a little grass along the banks of the

river we halted two hours after daylight to allow
the oxen some food, then rode on to the kraal of
Matebie [and) found it placed upon the top of a
stony hillock and said to consist of about 100 huts.
He visited us soon after our arrival and complained
much of not being assisted by the Great King; said he
l l'aiabo, of the nhaping tribe.
 ANDREW SMITH DIARY 2.2.3

and his people had nothing to eat and that the bare
state of the country required him to send his cattle
to a distance where he has been in the habit of having
them constantly stolen from him by the Corannas.
Is very incredulous and expects no aid from the
white people. Says that in consequence of the com-
mando system he has been forced to leave his country
and now to live like a Bushman, being seen by nobody.
Formerly all the English used to come to him when
he lived at the K.ruman,1 now all go past him ; he
sees none of his friends. The English are the only
friends he has and his heart, he declares, is very
glad to-day at seeing us, it being a long time since he
saw any English. Appears very averse to our going
to Masalakatzie ; says that in former days M. was
good but lately he has been so annoyed by com-
mandoes that he is ready to attack any strangers that
approach him. Some of the Barootzie 1 that he took
as prisoners have lately fled from him, and say that
he put others of them to death saying that they
were the people that brought the commandoes.

2. I JANUARY (WEI>NBSD.AY),

Early this morning reached the spot where the

Hart River empties itself into the VaaJ. River; the
former stream is small without wood near the mouth
and the water in some places very deep and almost
stagnant covered over with a thick coating of weeds.
Last evening much lightening to the north with
distant thunder ; towards three in the morning a few
large drops of rain. During our morning journey
i Kuruman.
a Huruthsc.
Q
114 ANDREW SMITH DIARY

found that rain had fallen heavily about two miles

to the N.E. of where we rested. Wind blowing
strongly this morning from about N .N .E.
Zosterops madagascariensis builds its nest on small
bushes and suspends it between the branches. It
resembles a retort with the tube broken off close to
the head, the opening being where the neck of the
retort commences ; it is composed of grass inter-
weaved very thinly so as the light can be seen directly
through it, and amongst it is also introduced particu-
larly towards the bottom and back small tufts of
cotton. Eggs light blue green with some purplish
black spots and an irregular circle of the same colour
near the large end. Found on the bushes of the Vaal
River 20 Jany., 183s.

2..2. JANUARY (THURSDAY).

On the west of the Hart a little way from its mouth

the country becomes flat at a little distance from the
river, and there occur small plots of fine sweet grass.
Halted till 6 a.m. to permit them to feed. During the
afternoon of yesterday much lightening and faint
thunder ; all round us the rain appeared falling
heavily in every direction but only a few passing
drops were spared upon us. During the night very
cloudy and threatening rain. To-day the sky continues
overclouded and the weather moderately cool.
Chaemi/io, No. 7S : anterior part of top of head
hollow, posterior parts even or slightly convex and
pointed behind with a small flap extending from point
about half way down the neck, semilunar convexity
backwards ; eyeballs with faint brown stripes from
 ANDREW SMITH DI.ARY US
base to edge of lids ; back slightly serrated towards
head; chin, throat and belly with a white faintly
jagged line ; side of jaws towards angles of mouth
pure white or dully purple red ; on each side a row
of three longitudinal spots white or dull rosy red ;
beneath each of these a long line of the same colour
as spots ; nails amber colour ; pupil red ; near
hindhead in centre a faint elevated noll ; sometimes
the spots and stripes are white on one side and rosy
on the other, also the same with regard to the edges
of lip ; the skin of the sides between the skin is
generally of a faint orange tinge.
The Buchuanna wear the hair outwards on their
head covering. They also now at least use the skin
of the jackal's tail fixed upon a stick to wipe the
sweat from their faces. The hair is cut after a variety
of fashions, sometimes left long in a circle on the
top with pendent portions from that ; sometimes
short on the top and long around the forehead and
above the ears. They ornament their kaross outside
in various ways with cuts by an axe, also frequently
have little ornamented portions of leather attached to
the front edges of the kaross near the neck. [They]
mix fat with the blink klip 1 and rub it over the body
in moderate quantities, but in great quantities upon
the head. Several amongst the Batclapins wear
forage caps after the European fashion, but either
without peaks or with very small ones ; some wear
caps made of cotton like the farmers. Many have
long drop earrings either of iron or brass. Few beads,
comparatively speaking, are worn, and none appear
to be desired. The women have often a great number
of strings round the loins and hanging down in front
i A grey iron ore sparkling with mi..-.
uG .ANDREW SMITH DIAl\.T

upon their petticoat. Very often they have a portion

of the tail of an ox or wildebeast attached to the kaross
just at the back of the neck. Colours very different
in different individuals, in some varying to black,
in others a dull tawny yellow. Nose towards front
very broad, ossa nasi in most low and little above
level of face, hence difficult to fix spectacles upon
them. Often small pieces of brass attached to the
hair about the temples. The women in former times
used to wear long 111acabies,1 not from the Corannas
as said by some. Many wear the colonial velt schoons,
others merely a sole of leather (some nothing)

fixed by a thong passing from the front between the

great and next toe and attached to a cross thong which
passes over the instep and when fastened to sides at
hollow of foot goes over to the opposite side above
the upper part of the heel. All the Caffers betray
great sunilarity in their songs and manner of singing ;
even the Matabeli approach the Buchuana in that
respect. Many have the bark of the Mimosa plaited
into small ropes and placed around the neck and
under the knees ; the women have much of this
round the ankles, loins and inside the knees, also
round the wrists. They have thin brass and iron
rings also round the wrists. Many of them use um-
brellas made of ostrich feathers fixed above in the
centre by a piece of round or square leather.
Along the Vaal River during the month of Jany.
several very large flights of kuikenduifs were seen,
i Malubl, akin petticoat of Tawana women.
 ANDR.EW SMITH DIAllY

in some perhaps 68 or 70, principally towards morning

and evening.
The Bushmen in this part of the country wear as
private covering either a portion of cat skin or
jackal and thou~h it is large enough to conceal the
parts which it 1s intended to cover yet from being
loose it blows about with the wind in such a way that
it might often as well be absent. Some make the
covering into a sort of sac which then answers better
for its purpose. They are devoted to snuff and would
make almost any sacrifice to obtain it. They make it
with tobacco and wood ashes which they moisten in
grinding with water ; two stones employed in grinding
it, one fiat the other round, both very smooth. They
cultivate tobacco with great care. They use springbok
skins in their karosses.
Travelled about 3 hours in the afternoon, and where
we halted found some good grass for the oxen.
Night very cloudy.

.23 JANUARY (PB.IDAY),

Started about 6 a.m. and travelled to a spring where

a portion of Matebee's Caffers were living situated a
little nearer the river than Bootscap.1 It was from
this station that the Corannas took lately the cattle.
The kraal is situated in the middle of a thick bush
and close upon the edge of the ridge over which one
travels to Bootscap. There is a strong spring at
this place which issues near the top of the ridge from
below a ledge of limestone, and around it a variety
of fine green dwarf bushes and small thorn trees.
1 Boetsap.
.u8 ANDREW SMITH DIARY

When I requested them to give a man to show grass

they refused, and it was only after much altercation
and a threat that I would inform Mateebie that they
gave one. It was cold this morning and occasionally
light rains ; all the Caffers were wrapt up in their
karosses as if it had been the middle of winter.
In the pool at the spot where the water issues from
the ground were a number of small £sh, vide speci-
mens. Fish No. 76 : Colour a light olive green
freckled with greenish yellow, a darker stripe in course
of lateral line ; the pupil has a reddish silvery ring
round it and the rest of the iris has a reddish green
tint varying however in different specimens ; from
eye to eye arching forwards a livid stripe and one
before that near to upper lip ; caudal fin tipped with
yellowish red, the rest light green with several light
blue transverse bars ; dorsal fin darker, olive green
with light blue vertical bars ; towards these on the
second portion of fin some of the same coloured spots ;
on the back, close to the anterior portion of dorsal
fin, a black spot ; on fin where the second portion
has }ust begun some darker varigations ; on anterior
portion of dorsal fin on hinder and upper part of
operculum a blackish spot ; all the points of rays
of both dorsal 6.ns dark amber colour, which is also
the colour of tip of tail; length of the longest caught
about s inches ; many silvery tints upon the side,
particularly about the belly ; pectoral fin nearly
transparent, only a very faint greenish tint.
Soon after we halted it began to rain pretty freely.
All the Caffers took off home as if they might be
melted.
When flooded the rivulet which carries off the
waters of the spring in which the £sh were contained
 ANDREW SMITH DIARY .u9
discharges its waters _into the Hart so that probably
the same fish occur in the Hart ; they had ascended
to the very highest point they could reach being in
the very pool in which the water rises. The colours
vary in different specimens yet the mottling is
constant.
The Caffers are very desirous of having towards the
centre of their kraal a spreading mimosa tree, under
the shade of which tliey can recline during hot
weather. One burst of surprise was evinced here
when they heard that we were going to visit Masala-
katzie. At present the chief of the kraal is absent
towards the Corannas about the stolen cattle. They
are according to their own account without cows.
They say all have been taken and yet at the same
moment when saying so they are offering milk for
sale. Many of them wear strings of ostrich egg-
shells, etc., round their loins in many turns. Some of
the women have small folds of skin hanging from
upper edge of after covering, and such fully orna-
mented with beadst etc. ; this is not, however, very
common. It is very difficult inducing them to sell
such articles. They even appear to view parting with
them with some superstition, though their excuse
always is [that] they have no more. During the season
the grain is in ear almost all the women are constantly
employed during the day keeping off the birds of the
Fringillidae order ; they keep constantly screaming,
beating with twigs and raising smoke in the garden.
They have usually one or two elevated spots in
different parts of the garden built of stone, and on
these they station themselves so that they may be
raised above the stalks of the corn ; they also make
various figures to frighten them away.
 ANDREW SMITH DIARY

During the rain wind b7 compass E.S.E. Ther-

mometer at noon whilst rauiing, 70. About .z. p.m.
it ceased to rain though still very cloudy, and the
wind blowing from the same quarter.
The fish, drawing 76, had in some specimens partial
transverse bands of a darker green colour tapering
towards belly, broad at commencement near dorsal
fin; caudal 12, ventral t, anal ..• , pectoral II, dorsal ... ;
B. 5 ; teeth several rows, those of first both above and
below largest ; no palatal teeth ; when closely
examined scales abounding with minute greenish
points ; lateral line interrupted near back.
Travelled in the afternoon to Little Botschap1
where we halted, the rain beginning to fall heavy.
Wind light from the E.S.E.

24 JANUARY (SATURDAY).

Rained during the whole of last night and every

appearance of continuing light and constant ; no
clear sky visible. After rains during the summer season
the whole country in the sandy districts looks green
in eight days; in the higher and stony districts [it] •
requires about 14 days. The moment the rains cease
to fall occasionally the moment the grass disappears
or is burnt up.
Little Bootschap is unhealthy for cattle ; they die
from the lameziekte. • During the last two years no
horses have died from the horse sickness. The months
are Jany., Feby., March and April ; in severe years
l Little Boctsap.
• Lamsiektc is a diseue which to some extent is the counterpart of
botulism in man. See Henning, M. W., .Ani111al Dis11Uu ;,, Somh Aft*•,
London, 1932. All diacucs liguring in this Diary arc treated of there.
 ANDREW SMITH DIARY 23 I
it begins in Jany. In Masalakatzie's country it begins
in the month of October. Reckon Jany. the last
summer month, but say that Feby. is often also warm.
The grass-hoppers or locusts are often very de-
structive to the grass in this country ; it has just
been all eaten off by Bights of them.
Says even when Barend was here there was neither
regulation nor laws ; you might complain but nothing
ever resulted therefrom. It is a country where you
may kill a man and there it stands. Never has heard
that the Corannas (a portion of Jan Captain's) who
live high on the Hart steal from the Caffers. About
12. months ago about 2.S of Masalakatzie's Caffers
arrived in the vicinity of the Coranna station sup-
posed to spy. The Caffers gave information to die
Corannas. They mounted their horses and shot all
but one ; he got out with a wound from a Bushman
arrow. Since that they have heard nothing of them
nor their peo_ple. He is afraid to send a commando
in this direction, the country being too open. The
party living at Little Botschap intend returning to
Phillipolis ; they state that here they are perfectly
unprotected and that they have not a shot of powder
in their possession. They brought us a good supply
of milk and immediately asked for tobacco, saying
they were and had been without it for a very long
time. Spoke sensibly about the serious misery of
want of laws and remarked upon the superiority of
the Colony in that respect. Loud thunder is seldom
heard in this country. Some instances of the lightening
destroying life. One of the men here had a child
killed by it some time ago at Great Botschap, and a
cow and a calf were killed at the Caffet kraal which
 ANDREW SMITH DIARY

we left yesterday afternoon. The Buchuannas are a

quiet timid people and little inclined to war and strife.
Says there are a great number of Bushmen living in
the country about this place but that none excepting
the civilised come near them.
In this part of the country the traders are in the
habit of selling an old soldier's musket for 6, 7 and
8 oxen ; a small pot (iron), costing in the Colony
about 2! dollars, ten Rix dollars ; an ox they require
for 3 or four pounds of gunpowder. The Corannas
give ten or 12 oxen for a gun, therefore the traders
resort more to them and the Caffers as to the Bastards
who understand to a certain extent the value of articles.
There were only three Coranna Bushmen 1 who
took the cattle from the Caffers on the Hart ; they
had taken before that horses from the Boors and with
those hotses they stole the cattle. Piet David and Pict
Barend are two of the most active in plundering.
Whenever a civilised man wishes to become a
plunderer, he separates himself from his own cast
and unites himself to the Corannas and takes a wife
from amongst them; he then stirs them up to all
sorts of mischief. Piet David with a party of Corannas
took the cattle from the Caffers higher up the river
at the same time that the three took more from the
Caffer kraal near this.

25 JANUARY (SUNDAY).

Some passing showers. During the day cloudy i

a good deal of rain about dusk.
1 Note the aprealion • Coranna Buahmen' ; Smith meane Kor1111.
 .ANDREW SMITH DIARY

The Bastards and Caffers living at Little Botschap

joined our afternoon service. Three Caffers arrived
with three goats for sale ; refused to purchase them
till Monday.

26 JANUARY (MONDAY).

Started from Little Botschap about , a.m. ; threat-

ening rain.
The people shot 6 specimens of Pl111Jianus armatus
at the waters of Great Botschap. One between young
and old : legs appear thicker than in the old ones ;
eyes fine brown ; bill and legs deep green [?] black ;
when they rise they make a sharp noise with the
wing like that from a slight blow with a stone ;
fly like the Pluvianus. At these waters I observed
several Motacilla eapensis for the fust time since
leaving Vaal River. Got a very large species of
Ni/us this morning. Where we halted at the Kuyl 1
there occurred abundance of the same fish as were
caught at the Caffer station. Drawing No. 76. They
were considerably larger and of a darker colour, the
spots and variegations on fins not quite so distinct
nor so brilliant. In some the vertical bands were
very distinct and some had two longitudinal dark
bands along each side ; in one there was a deep black
spot near upper extremity of operculum wit& three
golden spots enclosing it. The colour partook much
more on the sides and belly of a golden yellow, the
lips in and out of the water look livid white. Caution
in taking the hook and a second cannot at least for
a time be caught at exactly the same place where one
1 Kull, a hole.
 •
ANDREW SMITH DIARY

may have been pulled out. In the same pool occur

Bagru 1 like those in the Orange River; also abundance
of crabs as specimens. The Caffers roast and eat the
latter. Got yesterday another chaemeleon, 7J,
larger. When brought to the wagon it was of a
fine grass green colour with dark green imperfect
vertical bands on the sides and everywhere spotted
with faint black about the size of partridge shot or
rather larger. The white marks were very distinct,
three in the upper line, and the continuous white
stripe below them. The chin, throat, belly and a
little of the under part of tail had the white line, also
the edges of the lips. It was a female, and I placed it
on a branch attached to the back of the wagon and
put the other which I had had for some days alongside
of it. They had scarcely been placed there when they
began to be intimate and soon cohabited, the female
turned her tail round the male and she placed herself
with her body depending, probably to give the other
the advantage of weight. They were not long in
contact but that probably arose from my having
disturbed them. The penis of the male continued
protruding for a considerable time after the separation
took place.
When about to inspan at ! past two p.m. four of
the young oxen ran off into the bush and could not
be turned again for several hours which forced us
to remain at the Kuyl during the night. Traces of
lions visible in several directions. The number of
Bushmen in this direction is very considerable. Some
time ago they fell upon some Caffer women belonging
to the Batclapins who were plucking berries amongst
1 Barbels.
 ANDREW SMITH DIAR.Y

the bushes and put them all to death. The Caffers

followed some distance upon their traces, but at
last lost them amongst the stones and rocks. \Vhen
they steal in one direction they immediately emigrate
to another. Cloudy during the night.

27 JANUARY (TUESDAY).

Towards morning very thick clouds and light

misty rain ; at 9 p.m., therm. 72. Started at 12
o'clock and travelled till i past five. Rain fell nearly
the whole of the time. Wind N .W. ; clouds very heavy
in that direction. Towards evening cleared up, and
before sunset some fine sunshine. Saw a number of
quaggas and some hartebeasts. Where we halted
for the night a number of broken shells of ostrich
eggs observed in the bush, indicating that as the resort
of Bushmen.
28 JANUARY (WEDNESDAY).

Started at s a.m. and travelled about 4t hours to

the small spring north-west of Groote Fonteyn.1
Shot here several of the Hirundo for(jlltlfa. Traces of
Bushmen about the spring and marks of their resorting
to it for water. P/11Vianus armatus common near the
waters of this spring also the Anth111 capet1.Ji1 in
the meadow grounds near it. In the afternoon travel-
led two hours and a half. On the road found the
following lizard.
Lacer/a, No. 77 : colour of back and upper portion
of sides dark purple with a coppery lustre, most
1 See map. The position ia only approximate.
 ANDREW SMITH DIARY

distinct towards tail ; towards head rather a greenish

tint ; the back is spotted with three lines of yellow
dots, the centre towards back of head nearly a con-
tinuous stripe ; top of head dark black green ; the
sides particularly towards the head with fine yellow
vertical stripes cutting the purple ; belly yellow ;
tail light red between hinder legs above with indistinct
yellow dots, a row on each side most distinct and
proceeds farther along tail than centre spots ; fore
legs light green, dotted with circular yellow dots,
feet uriiform red ; hinder legs light red with many
indistinct pale yellow circular dots, feet uniform
light red. This is a very slender species with the tail
finely tapering and the skin of the sides loose and,
lying upwards in a fold, about 4! inches long; is
young; femoral pores. Two specimens of the Falco
rgpercoloides have lately been shot, the dark colour
of the back more abundant, the feathers wiry and
silky and the eyes dark brown, the yellow of the
legs rather more dull .

.29 JANUARY (THURSDAY).

Started at s o'clock and travelled to Masscpa 1

where there is a fine spring. Last night very cold ;
early this morning warm.
Got a specimen of Melaconotus atrococcineus Burch.
Eyes purplish grey ; black of back with a steel gloss ;
back of tail with a greenish tint ; very savage, bites
severely. Throws itself on its back like the hawks
and appears to prepare to strike with its feet. Jackals
and hyrenas very abundant around our encampment
l See map. The poaitioo is only approximate.
 ANDREW SMITH DIARY

during the night. Amongst the reeds which grow

about the waters of Massepa are abundance of the
red oryx and everywhere the Co/11mba capensis in
abundance. Here more of the Corvm scap11lat11s than
I have seen for a long time. Temperature of the spring
water where it bubbles up 61 ; of the air 74 at 10 a.m.

30 JANUARY (FRIDAY).

Started at 6 p.m., and after travelling about 4

hours reached Kuruman, the appearance of which
greatly delighted all of us. The thermometer during
last night fell to 51, and before daylight it was so
chilly that I should certainly have fancied, judging
from my feelings, that the temperature was much
lower.
It appears that Mr. Archbald was very bold with
Masalakatzie and spoke in a way that it would have
been dangerous to interpret to him. Mr. Moffat had
one day a large basket with blood and fat sent to
him ; 1 he returned it and stated that according to
his ideas it was not food he could eat. Mas. returned
for answer that his doing so had that day made him
happy ; that now he saw he felt himself at home and
had every confidence in him. Mr. M. says that most
of Masalakatzie's warriors are the old Baquana.1
Masalakatzie's people have this system in following
cattle when they are stolen from them. They send
off in all directions and assemble the people. The
first assembled whilst the others are assembling are
1 Most of the information following was given to Smith by Robert
Moffat ; much of it appears in his Mi11iON1r.J Ltibo11r1 mtd s,m11 I# So111b,,.,,
Afrk11, London, x842,
I ~WCDa,
 ANDREW SMITH DIARY

employed in discovering the spoor. The people then

form into three parties ; one goes upon the traces of
the cattle, another goes upon the traces of the persons
as they approached to steal, and a third party proceeds
on the opposite side to that so as to leave the cattle
in the centre. When they make any discovery the
party so making it kindles three fires, should they
deem it necessary, at a little distance apart, to call
in the other two ; if they consider themselves strong
enough without such assistance they do not kindle
the fires. When Mr. Moffat had not been very long
established at the Kuruman there was a great scarcity
of rain, and that the people attributed to him, par-
ticularly to his beard. They actually ordered him and
the others with him to leave the station but he resisted,
telling them if they would drive them away with
their hassegays then they would go, otherwise not.
They would not attempt that but appeared to con-
tinue dissatisfied with them till about the time the
Mantatees came, when their exertions gained for
them the goodwill of the people. When the Corannas
after this began to be troublesome with commandos
they again began to get disaffected to the missionaries
and wished them away. They now appear pretty
well convinced of their utility. Most of the members
of the church, at least some of the best of them,
were formerly persons of the very worst characters,
and who for a long time resisted all endeavour to
convert them.
A specimen of No ..••1 had the white spots almost
disposed in bands of single dots across the body and
several of the blackish spots congregated in patches
1 No number in MS.
 .ANDREW SMITH . DIARY

upon the body and tail. Though the tail in No .•.•1

is represented smooth yet in specimens where it has
never been broken off it is smaller and surrounded by
rings of raised pointed scales at moderate distances
from each other.
3I JANUARY (SATURDAY).

Engaged in inquiries relative to the interior.•

3I JANUARY (sUNDAY). 8

Attended divine service. Mr. Moffat preached in

Sichuanna and in the afternoon Mr. Hamilton preached
in Dutch, which was translated by a native. Congre-
gation pretty large.
I FEBRUARY (MONDAY).

After conversing closely with Mr. Moffat relative

to the station of the intenor, both he and I came to
the conclusion that it would be most judicious to
send to Masalakatzie previous to proceeding with
our party in the direction of his country, for various
accounts:
I No number in MS.
• Recorded in a separate notebook.
• From this point Smith has mixed up his dates and, realising this, has
made certain alterations which make them still more confused. The entry
for 51 January (Sunday) should be dated t February (Sunday), whereas
Smith has enteied t February (Monday). On pa~ IOJ o( the MS. he headed
one entry z February (Tuesday), but deleted this date, possibly later. On
~ge 1o6 of the MS. he altered the date 3 February (Wednesday) to z February
(Tuesday), and the dates of all subsequent entries up to that for 14 February
(Saturday) have been similarly altered to one day ahead. I have accordingly
corrected all of them.
B
 ANDUW SMITH DIAllT

1. Because he has issued an order that all stranger1

are to be interrupted ;
.z. Because he, expecting a commando in conse-
quence of the attack upon Peter David, has retreated
from bis usual residence more to the north ;
3. Because with or without bis approval bis people
have seized Bain's wagons, and must consequently
consider that as likely to annoy the white people,
hence they will be suspicious of the consequences ;
4. Because there is no doubt but that it is known
to him that we were in the country where Peter David
resides after he had lost his wagons ;
j. Because the probability is that Peter David's
commando will reach him during our visit or about
that time;
6. Because the messengers who were lately at
Kuruman stated to Mr. Moffat, when they heard that
the missionaries had left us, that we must be bad
people or they would not have separated from us ;
llldeed that we must be " on a commando."
In the Kalahari desert there lives a tribe of poor
Buchuanas who have neither cattle nor com ; they
exist entirely on the n[aturalP productions of the
soil and on the game which by stratagem they arc
enabled to acquire. Elands, hartebeasts and camels 1
abound and they say those all live without water ;
there arc also gnus which live likewise without water.
The country after penetrating it for some little distance
consists of a deep sand, a perfect :Bat. A man walking
through it will sometimes sink to the knees, generally
1 Between the worda • the • and • productions: Smith baa inserted the
letter • n.•
• Glralfe1.
 ANDREW SMITH DIARY 2.41

to midleg. The rain water as it falls immediately

disappears. The inhabitants possess nothing but
dogs with which they kill jackals, etc., and form
karosses. They are a very timid race and generally
avoid strangers. The surface of the country is [thickly]
covered with underwood and kamelbooms, so as
to prevent one person seeing another though close
together. 1
The disease called bloodzichte 11 is sometimes very
common about Latakoo during the months of Feby.,
March and April; it often arises from eating goats,
etc., who have died of it. It attacks cattle also. Some-
times it does not appear externally but attacks the
liver. First appears like the swellings occasioned by
muskitoe 8 bites, then fets puffy and a black spot
appears in the centre o the swelling which ulcerates
and leaves a deep ill-conditioned sore attended with
much constitutional derangement and swelling of the
surrounding parts. Pregnant women who are at-
tacked with this disease generally die of it; seldom
get through. Ma.sari,' a woman, is derived from the
Caffer verb " to bear." Soon after Mr. Hamilton
fixed at Takoon,1 Matebe went on a commando
against some of the interior tribes and was defeated ;
he then was persuaded with all his people to remove
to Kuruman. Formerly they had lived there, and near
to it they had suffered severely from small pox.
They are not easily persuaded to reside at or near
1 Mtct this cntty is the date z February (Tuesday), which Smith bas de-
leted later.
• Blocdsickte, or anthrax. It is also known in Afrikaans as miltslektc
and gifsiekte.
• Mosquito,
' Mo1adi, 11 woman.
• Old Lattakoo, as opposed to New Lattakoo, or Kuruman. See map.
 ANDRAW SMITH DIARY

any place where misfortunes of a serious nature have

happened to them.
1 FEBRUARY (t'UESDAY).

Saw a case of bloodzichte. The sore was situated

on the left temple and the centre was separated from
the surrounding parts by a deep ulcerated circle i
the former was prominent, moveable and about to
fall out. Thunder storms are frequent here during
the months of Jany., Feby. and March, the thunder
sometimes very loud and the lightening very vivid.
On one occasion 14 women were killed by one
flash. Scarcely a year passes without 'accidents ;
people or cattle killed, trees destroyed or houses
aemolished. The heaviest and most lasting rains
happen with north-east or northerly winds. The
storm yesterday came up from the west and during
its continuance the wind changed several times,
principally towards the north and north-east.
Most of the Batclapin houses are built with reeds
which are plastered over with a mixture of clay and
cowdung. The reeds are placed in a circle and that
circle is kept together by three bands of the same
material to which they are :fixed by rope made of the
bark of the Mimosa. One band is placed near the

THiii
top of the vertical reeds, another about the middle
and the third close to the ground so
The same takes place on tll.e outside.
Two rows of poles are then placed ,
without this reed circle and sunk in
the ground to some considerable depth, one row
close to the circle, another about 2. feet without it.
Three posts are placed perpendicular in the centre
 ANDREW SMITH DIARY

of the reed circle to attach the poles which arc to

support the roof, and the other ends are placed in
the extremities of the poles which are placed in
circles. The roof does not lie close upon the top of
the walls, so that there is always a circulation of air
in the houses. From the two circles of posts they
are able to fonn a sort of verandah, the inner circle
being the boundary of the house and the outer the
breadth of the verandah. The walls are neatly
smoothed, both inside and out, the floor fairly
plaistered with clay and cow dung and kept generally
clean. A sort of semicircle of reeds also is formed
again without the house and opposite the door.
In some, another is formed behind this and forms a
sort of second inclosure behind into which they
enter from the first by a narrow door. The door
of the house is generally very narrow but about
4 feet high. The doors of the outer inclosures are
also very narrow, and they have usually hurdles of
reeds or brushwood to shut the openings. The
houses are thickly and neatly thatched with long
grass. Those that grow corn treasure the straw
up for diatching. Some make the framework of
brushwood instead of reeds but the last are preferred
when they can be obtained. The following is a sort
of plan of the house.

No. 1 Hearth, ~ Ridge supports,

V crandah, 4 Inclosurc behind,

' Front inclosurc.

 ANDREW SMITH DIARY

3 FEBRUARY (WEDNESDAY).

I questioned Mahura relative to the dangen of

approaching Masalakatzie's country. He stated that
he did not think that M. disapproved of his people
having taken Bain's J:,j~ons because he upbraided
them for not havin$ · ed the people and brought
them the guns, things that were useful to him,
instead of the stuffed animals, etc., which he could
do nothing with. They justified themselves by saying
" If we could have attacked them in the night we
could have brought the guns, but we were forced to
attack them in the day whereby they having had
horses were enabled to escape."
4 FEBRUARY (THURSDAY).

Put a series of questions to Mr. Moffat and received

his answers which will hereafter be entered.1 He
says he thinks it was the young soldiers of Masala-
katzie that fell upon Bain's wagons and that Masala-
katzie would reprove them for having done so.
1 FEBRUARY (FRIDAY).

The men that engaged to carry a message to

Masalakatzie stated to-day that they could not go ;
agreeable to the agreement they had entered into,
but that each must have a musket instead of a cow.
I at once told them that that was impossible, but
I insisted upon their performing their promise and
had them brought before Mahura who was present
1 Moffat gave Smith much information, but these particular qucadona
do not sccm to be referred to in this Diary.
 ANDRllW SMITH DIARY

at the station. He, according to the interpretation

furnished me, made very judicious remarks and told
them that having engaged for a certain payment to
perform a certain duty they must stand by their
promise. They objected, saying if they got guns
they would go. Mr. Moffat afterwards spoke to them
and they became quite willing. Several old men and
petty chiefs were present when the case was submitted
to Mahura. Alf warmly reprobated their conduct ;
even the father of one of the men raised his voice
against them. They were latterly themselves ashamed
of their conduct. A third man was added to the
number in order to assist them in packing the pack
ox.
6 FEBRUARY (SATURDAY).
Attended service. Morning service by Mr. Moffat
in the Sichuanna; afternoon service by Mr. Hamilton
in Dutch interpreted by a Buchuana. Congregation
each time about 15 o ; most of the hearers very
attentive and decently dressed. Many of them read
and follow the preacher when he refers to parts of
scripture or psalms. Received an ex.press from Mr.
Moodie 1 concerning the inroads of the Caffers.

7 FEBRUARY (SUNDAY).

Mr. Moffat conversine; with the third man engaged

to go to Masalakatzie discovered that he belonged to
the tribe who lived on the lake which lies to the north
of Masalakatzie's country.• He gave a very circum-
stantial account of it, so distinct and natural as to
i Lieut. DonaldMoodie. Theal,G.M.,Hir'OfYo/Somh~"'(1854- 1B,4)
Londoo, 1188, Vol. iv, p. 6o.
I Lab Np.ml.
 ANDREW SMITH DIARY

leave no doubt of its existence. Says the water always

runs in a stream one way and that with their boats,
which consist of the trunks of trees hollowed out,
they have to exert themselves considerably to stem
it. They propel them through the water with two
paddles somewhat like spades ; one man sits in front
and one behind on opposite sides. The waves he
describes with precision, and says when the wind
blows strong they cannot run on the water. There
arc islands in the lake, and on those some people live.
Sometimes they are a long time on the water and then
they put a little earth in the bottom of the boat and
cook there. He has never seen but one side of the
lake. It is fresh. Says they heard when he was a boy
of a party of white men passing near to them. They
were described as very excellent people and all of his
tribe were very anxious that they should come to them
but they were not gratified ; they passed more inland.
He says they had walking houses, 1 and those were
open at both ends so that they could look out either
in front or behind. From thence people can travel
to the Damaras• with but little difficulty. He describes
those people as very ferocious and savage in their
wars. They rush upon their enemies and stab them
with hassegays which are very broad and have short
iron handles. They are kept very clean and shine like
a bright gun barrel. He described their cattle as being
very small. Towards the lake he says the countty
is low and flat, the surface in many places with a
thin coating of something white like a crust of salt.
He describes several large rivers in that direction,
some running east and others west.
i Covered waggom.
I Hcrcro,
 .ANDREW SMITH DIARY

8 FEBRUARY (MONDAY).

The men having received the message for Masala·

katzic started this forenoon in gooCl spirits and
promised to return as soon as possible. Dispatched
a man early this morning with the Govt. letters to
C. Kok and Watcrboer, also a letter for Mr. Moodie
and one to Revd. Mr. Archbald entreating of him
to persuade Peter David if possible not to interfere
with Masalakatzic, at least till we had returned from
him, should it be decided to visit him. A man arrived
from Mr. Moffat's cattle post this evening late and
stated that one of our oxen had died that day and that
two others were sick. A few of them were also brought
to the station amongst which was one of the two
which he considered sick. It died during the night.
9 FEBRUARY (TUESDAY).

Had the ox which died in the night opened and

I found the spleen much enlarged, gorged with blood
and quite disorganised, when touched falling about
like soft pap. The lungs were also slightly inflamed,
liver healthy, but the gall-bladder very much dis-
tended with bile. The people here call this the blood-
zichte.1 Say that it sometimes attacks the internal
parts and destroys the animal ; at other times it
breaks out in sores upon the body. Persons who eat
of the flesh of animals who die of this disease arc
also liable to be attacked by it, nevertheless they all
believe that there is the utmost anxiety evinced to
get the flesh. Mrs. Moffat mentioned to me an
' At the t~ of the page Smith bu written f1Ml1il, which it black quarter.
ar quarter nil, and not 1ntluu.
 ANDREW SMITH DIARY

instance in which two women begged of her to be

pcnnitted to take the flesh of a goat which all con-
sidered as having died of that sickness. She advised
them against it but they persisted ; both were attacked
by the disease and both died of it. The natives attri-
bute it to the abundance of spring grass which springs
up after the thunder rains. Mr. Schoon had an attack
of the bloodzichte. He felt languid and in low
spirits for about two weeks, was tired by the slightest
exercise and had no appetite. A tumour of a circum-
scribed character formed on the breast and was flat
like a penny piece and could be moved under
the skin ; this continued for some time in that state
and then began to get black. Soon [it] was, as he
describes it, like a burnt cork ; the black portion fell
out and a profuse discharge followed which was in-
creased by poultices. Was a long time in healing.
He states that he derived ~reat benefit from a dose of
calomel which was administered to him at the Kuru-
man. Both Mr. and Mrs. Moffat have had the disease,
the former over the eye, the latter on the wrist. The
local disease was first in both of them. Tremendous
swelling attended the complaint in Mr. Moffat's case,
and extended all down the neck ; the eyelids were so
swollen that he could scarcely see daylight. Mr. Ward
has also had the disease. It is very common in Masala-
katzie's country ; it is thought that it is more severe
amongst persons who indulge much in animal food.
Many of Masalakatzie's men are marked by it. Some-
, times it eats away the eyelids, sometimes the lips.
It is regarded as very dangerous when it occurs on the
side under the armpits. In Namaqualand they often
make incisions in the tumour and suck the blood out
with a view of making it affect some other part.
 ANDR.EW SMITH DIARY

That is done when it fint occurs in some dangerous

situation. They do not practice that plan with a view
of preventing its breaking out ; they consider it is
the best termination it can take when it appears
outwardly. It goes on till about the end of May.
Cattle that are al.most constantly working are less
liable to it than those which have had long rest and
which are in good condition. Mr. Hamilton 1 though
a very Ion~ time in the country has never had an attack.
About midday all the oxen arrived from the post
and eleven of them appeared sickly and two more had
died. I had them all bled, which was effected by
making a transverse incision on the under side of
the tail near its root; most of them bled freely and that
appeared to give relief to those that were suffering.
One appeared worse than the others and he was bled
a second time about dusk.

IO FEBRUARY {WEDNESDAY).

This morning the eleven oxen appeared much better,

and during the day they fed well which they had not
done for several days. Two still looked a little dull in
the evening, but as both yesterday bled freely I did
not think it judicious to repeat the bleeding. Several
of the Caffers are now suffering from colds and bilious
attacks ; they apply to Mr. Moffat for medicine.
Mr. M. is also suffering from a bilious attack ; much
vomiting. Day very sultry, evening cloudy with light-
ning in the north. Had a severe thunderstorm on
Sunday ; 1 rain fell ?lost heavily to the west of us.
1 Rev. Robert Hamilton, of the London Missionary Society.
• Smith ia obvioualy writing up what he bad omitted to do OD the day
itHlf'; that day'a entry appean under the date 6 February (Saturday).
2.jO ANDREW SMITH DI.ARY

A Barootzie 1 arrived here two days ago and states

that they have had no rain about the sources of the
Hart River nor at Towens; • all is dry and parched in
that direction.
Intended starting this afternoon for Langeber~ but
was delayed from not being able to procure an inter-
preter. The man who accompanied us from Matebee's
stated his wish to leave us ; assigned various reasons
but I was satisfied none of that were the real one. I was
convinced he fancied we were going to Masalakatzic.
Upon trying him towards evening he satisfied me that
I had been right in my conclusion, for he actually
confessed that he feared it. When fully apprisedofour
intentions he agreed to accompany us.
Barometer 9 p.m. 2. 5.666. Thermometer 74.
Yesterday barometer 5 p.m. 2. 5. 540.
Schoon informs me that when first he began to
trade in this country about 1828, nothing was desired
by the natives but beads, etc., but now they are scarcely
asked for ; indeed nothing is to be purchased by them'
but milk or firewood. They are particularly anxious
for ready made clothes. He has sold more than loo
shirts since he last arrived here which was in December,
and during that time he and Hume together have got
in money from the natives over 400 Rds. They even
purchase with avidity waistcoats. He is at present
selling clothes for tobacco which he intends to carry
to Namaqualand. They understand reckoning money
quite well, and if told the price of an article and they
wish to purchase it they reckon out the money with
i Huruthle.
1 The name Is difficult to decipher. If my reading, ' Towcna.' is correct,
the place was Taungs. The name ' Town• occura later on in the Diary.
Taunga is spelt • Touns • in the &pwt oJ /}J, B/11mbo/ Cof116"11ioo, p. ago.
I u.,
by beada.
 ANDREW SMITH DIAllY ap
the greatest precision. Schoon and Mr. Moffat both
consider that most of the difficulties laid to the passing
of the Kalahari desert are fictitious and are only pic-
tured to prevent the trade in that direction being
opened to Europeans. I can believe that as I find
that the natives are not without their policy in that
respect. Mateebie formerly did not permit any of
his subjects to grow tobacco, but insisted upon their
purchasing it from the Griquas in order to ltecp up a
friendly communication with the persons of that
community.
Very heavy dews during the two last nights ; did
not disappear till the sun had been a considerable time
above the horizon. Placed this day most of our stores,
etc., in Mr. Mo.ffat's warehouse, in order to remain
there till our return from Langeberg, etc.
I I FEBRUARY {THURSDAY).

Several more of the oxen were reported sick this

morning and in the course of the day two died. We
got reaay to start about 9 a.m. for the Langeberg,
but the appearance of the oxen deterred me from
proceeding, one of the oxen which died in the morning
having been .Perfectly well yesterday and one of those
which were in the wagons moving the goods to the
store. In that the spleen was greatly enlarged and
pulpy like the one examined yesterday about midday.
Between the spleen and the kidney one of the large
veins had burst, and a considerable quantity of blood
was effused in the cavity of the abdomen. The gall
bladder was very full. The other which died was
minutdy examined. The left leg above the knee joint
was much swollen some time before its death and a
.a,.a AMDR.E'W WITH DIARY

large tumour existed on the inner and hinder part of

the thigh which when pressed gave a soft pulpy
sensation to the fingers and the pressure seemed to
cause severe pain to the animal. I had blood taken
from the neck to the extent of two quarts. After that
the ox appeared relieved for a time and exhibited marks
of great debility ; was unable to rise for nearly an
hour. The inability, however, appeared more to arise
from the lameness of the leg than from actual weak-
ness. After it succeeded in getting upon its feet it
trembled a good deal, and when it attempted to walk
it had a tottering pace and dragged the swollen limb ;
never set it fimil.y to the ground and it even appeared
as if slightly paralytic. The breathing became very
hurried and laborious, the muscles of the belly were
violently contracted and the belly appeared as if shrunk
up towards the backbone. A sort of frothy mucus
was discharged from the mouth and nose, and the
upper lip hung over the lower. The eyes appeared
very dull and the muscles of the forehead were corru-
gated, producing numerous wrinkles in the skin. The
eyelids generally half shut and the ears hanging. Flies
which settled upon the body or head seemed to oc-
casion the animal no uneasiness. Soon after getting
up it lay down again but in a natural position, apparent-
ly however suffering violent pain ; twisted the fore
part of the body from side to side whilst the hinder
parts remained nearly stationary. Often bent the head
back towards the shoulders, and the muscles engaged
in respiration acted with great violence. Occasional
groans from time to time. It appeared anxious to
get up but never succeeded. In this state it continued
for several hours and then died. Often during that
interval the muscles of the neck and shoulders swelled
 .ANDREW iMITH DIAR.T

considerably and appeared almost as if affected with

spasms. On examination after death it was found not
to have suffered from inflammation of the spleen ; that
organ was perfectly natural. The inside of the thigh
where the swelling existed was more vascular than
natural, and the cellular membrane was distended
with a serous fluid which escaped freely wherever
incisions were made. There was also a considerable
portion of the same fluid lying on both sides of the
exterior muscles of the leg in the groin. A large
circumscribed swelling existed consisting of two en-
larged and diseased glands highly vascular and rather
pulpy. Similar enlarged glands were found within
the belly on the same side along the spine as far as
the kidney. The liver and kidneys healthy, the gall
bladder much distended with bile, the urinary bladder
full with high coloured urine and the bowels also
loaded with excrement. The stomach well filled with
dry food lying very compact ; seemed not to have
drunk much water. Lung of a pale rosy colour and
when cut exhibited no marks of disease nor increased
vascularity. Nothing peculiar about the heart. The
disease during its latter stages resembled what is
occasioned by the bite of a poisonous snake ; the only
difference I could observe was less diffusion of blood
in the swelled parts. The Caffers and all those accus-
tomed to see the q11atsi1 considered this as the disease.
Several of the other oxen are also affected with
swellings, some in the legs, others on the side of the
belly towards the groins, and one or two immediately
before the sheath of the penis. They eat but little and
in the field arc much inclined to lie down. Every
portion of the flesh of those dead oxen was carried
away by the Caffers although at the time several
 ANDREW SMITH DIARY

persons were already labouring under the disease

around them. Mr. Moffat thiriks that the disease is
more severe and more dangerous when it occurs on
the back than on the forepart of the body.
I 1 PEBR.UAR.Y (FRIDAY),

Another ox died in the night. One extremity of the

spleen was enlarged and th.toughout soft, pulpy and
of a dark red colour. In the lungs was situated a large
cyst coated inside with tough coagulable lymph and
distended by a clear colourless B.uid resembling water.
Saw this morning a woman affected with quatsi1. The
disease existed in the .right angle of the mouth, check
and side of the chin. Ulceration has taken place and
the sore is situated just in the angle of the mouth and
has a radiated a~pearance, so
It has a hard dry suiface and looks ~II//
more like chips 1 than ulceration. --"\.. ~
The cheek is much swollen and ~~
also the temple with a great degree
of hardness for some consideral:ile distance around the
sore, the edge of the hardness defined and gradually
thinning off. The glands below the chin are much
swollen and very hard, but not f.>artlcularly painful
except on hard pressure. A child has the disease
on the right side of the neck a little distance behind
the mastoid process. The sore is about the size of a
halfpenny but of an oval form, and the surface appears
very hard and dry. The only ulceration yet existing is
in the form of a deep chip round the circumference
of the diseased portion. No discharge, but little swell·
ing of the surrounding parts ; does not appear to suffer
1 Old form of • chaps.'
 ANDREW SMITH DIARY

much pain. The woman ate of the flesh of an ox

which died suddenly, and the next morning the disease
began to make its appearance.
No. So, Mll.f, was found under some loose stones
near gardens at the Kumm.an. No. 90, Mll.f, was found
on the small flats surrounded by bushes where we
fust halted at the Kumm.an. The teeth of the lower
jaw and the tail differ much in the two specimens ; the
last exhibits scarcely any appearance of rings on the
tail ; the lower teeth are compressed and more
slender.
Mr. Moffat stated that Africander was required by
the Government of the Colony to drive Gideon
Fitsacey 1 from great Namaqualand in consequence of
his being in unison with the Bondel Zwartes making
commandoes against the Damaras. He was then
living at Modder Fonteyn. The chief of the Bonde!
Zwartes heard of the intention and gave warning to
Fitsachey who had got all his cattle together and was
prepared for defence. Africander repaired with his
people towards Modder Fonteyn, and when near it he
with a few principal men left their guns behind and
rode upon pack oxen almost up to the fort intending
to speak with Fitschey. Instead of permitting
Africander to approach, a volley of musketry was the
salute. He fell from his pack ox in consequence of
receiving a lot of lupers • in the shoulder. Upon this
they retreated, and next day assembled all their people
with a view of attacking the fort. They repaired
l Vi1agie. Smith apells the name in three different ways in this en~ in
the Diary. The second, Fituchey, when pronounced in Scottish fashion,
givca the clue. See also Mossop, E. E., TIN f P#f'#al of Hmdrill. /Mli Wi.ur,
Car, Town, 19n, PP· 3o6-307 and 516-9.
Loopen, or .mall-shot.
I
 ANDREW SYim :DIAllT

thither and on their arrival found all [gone] off to

Bondel Zwart. So ended this matter.
Explanation regarding burning the missionary
houses at the Warm Bath. A jealousy existed between
Afticander and Bondel Zwart. The latter objected
to Africander's people coming too near his country,
which they said they had done in order to be near to
where the missionaries were. Mr. Albright 1 entreated
Africander to go back ; in order to prevent wars he
did so. After this Bondel Zwart's people propagated
all sorts of reports relative to the intentions of Afri-
cander and persuaded the missionaries that they were
in danger, induced them to dig holes in the ground
to bury their property and also to retire to if an
attack should be made in order to avoid the balls.
Some time after this some of Bondel Zwart's l'eople
drove off the missionaries' cattle in the direetlon 0£
Africander and persuaded them that they must be
in his hands. Persons were sent after them and found
them not near to Africander. Just about this time
Africander's cattle were driven off by some of Bondel
Zwart's people, and one of them who had gone in
search ofthe missionaries' cattle on one of their horses
entered into it. Bondel Zwarts had no horses. The
moment the missionaries got possession of their
cattle they fled across the river to Pella 1 and from
thence to Bisondermaide. 1 The cattle of Africander
were made to cross the river a little way above where
the missionaries did, and a man from the Bonde!
Zwarts repaired to Africander, and told that the
1 Rev. Christian Albrecht, of the London Missionary Society.
• A station of the London Miaai.onary Society near the Orange River in
Namaqualand.
1 Bisondermeid. Another station of the London Misaiouary Society in
Namaqualand.
 .lND1l:l"W !!MITH DI.ARY

missionaries had taken his cattle. He dispatched

people on the spoor and upon finding it near to the
wagons of the missionaries and especially having been
driven by a ~erson on horseback believed the report.
He then repaired to the Bath 1 where he found nobody,
set fire to the missionary houses and dug up a box
which had been buried before the door and was
filled with iron. Soon after a person came from the
Colony and asked him what his cattle were doing on
the other side of the river. Upon hearing they were
there he sent off people in search of them, found them,
and observed some of Bonde! Zwart's people near to
them. Inquiry being made at the missionaries who had
fled, they found that they knew nothing about the
circumstance.
Stated by the same person that Africander had by
the colonists been most cruelly used, that the children
of some of his family had been trodden to death and
that their wives had been seduced by thei1' masters.
Pinnear had sent for them one forenoon and they
refused to attend him. He had, scein$ things were
likely to go ill, eventually desitcd a portlon of them to
leave the place but they refused to separate. In the
evening two persons came down from the house to
their huts and stated that two men had gone off to
bring the Field Cornet and 5o men. Soon after this
was told them a messenger arrived and required
certain of them to- go up to the house, amongst others
Jager Africander. Titus was not required, but he went
and carried his gun behind his back loaded with buck
shot. When they arrived in front of the stoop Pict
was upon it. He demanded why they did not come
1 Warmbad ; a third station of the London MissiOQUY Society in Nium-
~
 ANT>lll!W ~ DI.A.l.Y

when he sent for them ia the forenoon; they replied

they had no inclination to attend as baas was too angry
then. He held up his finger and threatened them.
They asked what had they done ; had they done any-
thing but serve him. With this he sprang at Jager and
gave him a blow on the side of the head behind the
car which brought him to the ground. Titus, seeing
this, levelled his gun at Pinnear and fired ; he fell
back into the forehouse 1 dead. They then endeavoured
by water, etc., to recover Jager, and when they accom-
plished that they went into the house and told his
wife, who was in great agitation, not to be alarmed ;
they had no intention of injuring her, that she was a
fellow sufferer with themselves and that they had often
seen her tears and heard her words without their
availing anything. All they wished from her was the
powder and lead, which she ~ranted immediately. They
told her to remain quietly till the Field Cornet and the
people should arrive. She, however, fled through a
back window with two children. Some Bushmen,
relatives of some persons who had been murdered by
the Pinncars, heard of her flight, intercepted her, killed
one child and injured another severely, but that
recovered. They offered no violence to the woman.
All the party belonging to Africander then fled off
to the Orange River.
Goat's flesh is considered more liable to give per-
sons who eat it the qt1at.ri1 than any other. A horse
belonging to Mr. Moffat exhibits symptoms of the
horse sickness.
After Africandcr's escape from the Colony they resided
on the Orange River. Shortly after a party of Boors
1 Voorbuie.
 ANDREW SMITH DIARY

met Nicholas Barend, brother of old Barend Barcnd,

and offered him 10 guns, fifty pounds of powder and
1 cwt. lead if he would fall upon [and] kill Africander.
He entered into their views and went off to the place
where Mricander lived and carried off all his cattle
whilst grazing in the field attended by a few boys.
Titus followed and all the people ; the former overran
the latter and got up to Barend with the cattle. He
rushed into the troop and endeavoured to drive them
back but without success. During that time the whole
of Barend's people were firing at him, but not a single
shot told. Tu time the people came up, but they were
so exhausted by thirst that they were unable for any
exertion. A good deal of firing took place and the
women of Mricander arrived with some milk and
water which they drunk, but that only increased their
thirst, so that the day being extremely hot they were
forst 1 to desist and return without anything to their
kraal. On one occasion when both Titus and Nicholas
were amongst the oxen, each anxious to shoot the other,
the oxen at one time by some of their movements
separated a little and left the two fighters exposed to
each other. Both hastened to avail themselves of the
opportunity ; the musket of each was soon to the
slioulder and as soon discharged. Just before the
battle took place a cow attempted to cross from one
side to the other and in her move received both balls
which probably saved the lives of both the com-
batants. The balls were found close together in the
cow. Africander's people, intent upon revenge, killed
two calves which were all that remained, dried the
flesh and set off up the river intending to attack
Barend. They got hold of a man belonging to Barend
• forced,
 ANDREW SMITH DIARY

and ascertained from him the site of Nicholas, kraal.

They passed it during the night and concealed them-
selves during the day in the bushes. At night they
surrounded the kraal. A portion repaired to the high
gtounds. Another portion, consisting of Bushmen
armed with bows ana stones, proceeded towards the
huts, and they were followed by others armed with
guns. Those carrying stones threw them into the
huts which caused an alarm ; these were followed by
a shower of arrows and volleys of musketry from differ-
ent directions. Barend's people thought themselves
cntirdy surrounded, and thought ofnothing but Bight.
They took their course down the river and Africaner's
people followed them with all the cattle. About day-
break they got to the place where they had halted,
and Titus came suddenly upon Nicholas standing
against the base of a perpcndicitlar bank on the margin
of the river. He called out to him " Nicholas, if I
raise my gun at you I can shoot you." The latter
replied " You must not kill me, if you please." A man
of Barend's who was standing on the top of the pre-
cipice fired at Titus ; the compliment was returned
by Titus and the man fell close to Nicholas. After
this Africaner turned out about a thousand sheep which
belonged to old Kok and several cattle belonging to
other persons, and sent them back by the man
whom they had taken when going to the kraal,
saying they were not fighting with Kok nor with so
and so but with Nicholas. A time afterwards Africaner
sent to Nicholas to know if they were to be enemies
or friends. A message was returned they were to be
friends. Africaner then said he could not be friends
until he knew who had induced him to attack them
whilst they were friends. Nicholas told him. Soon
 ANDREW SMITH DIA.RT .i61

after he went on a commando and shot one of the

principal Boors who had been active in the business
in front of his own house.

13 FEBRUARY (SUNDAY). 1

14 FEBRUARY (SATURDAY).

Another ox died last night, the liver much enlarged

and very full of blood, the gall bladder greatly dis-
tended and several of the inguinal glands enlarged
and very vascular. One of the people in driving the
sick oxen away from those that are well threw a stone
and struck the eye of one which caused it to burst
immediately.
A great Baharootzie rain-maker came [to] the
Kuruman and was hailed on his arrival with the
greatest acclamations of joy.• Just as he entered the
town a few drops of rain fell and it thundered ; the
people omened well from that and thought all was to
be well with them. After that for several months not a
drop of rain fell and they got greatly enraged [and]
even were inclined to destroy him. He said a person
had been buried who was not sufficiently washed.
He took the corpse out of the grave in a state of great
putridity and washed it afresh ; he told them certain
sorts of goats must be brought him which had not been
brought and certain oxen, failing [which] he required
l There ia no cntty for 13 February; there was one before the alteration
of dates.
• This information wu given to Smith by Robert Moffat. It will be found
in Moffat, R.., Missiotltlry Ltllxnws 6111} Stmu;,, S111111Nr11 Ajrita, London, t8j:,
Cb. m, pu1i111. The baboon story will also be found in CamJ>bcll• ••
Tr.,,,11 ;,, Sllldb Afritt1 (Second Journey), London, t8n, Vol. iJ, p. 199.
Campbell doubtlcSs obtained his information frQai Mofl'at or Hamilton,
whom he met in Kuruman,

l
 A.1'.'ll~ SMITH DIAllT

a live baboon from the mountains without a scar

and which had not lost a hair. They brought one. He
told them "See, you have rubbed off some of the hair;
that will not answer." He also required a lion's heart
to make some of his preparations. At last the people
got so infuriated against him that they would have
killed him had the missionaries not interfered with
Motebe and got him to convey him safely away from
the place. He used during thunderstorms to place
himself on some high knowls 1 near the town and
wave with his hand to the clouds to come and deposit
their treasures. He said as long as the missionaries
prayed he could do nothing ; they had communicated
with God who was above theclouds and he had power
over them. He went afterwards to the Bawankets •
and the year he got there there was abundance of rain.
When their stores were well filled with corn Macaba•
ordered him to be taken one day and put to death, and
his young wife, a fine looking young woman, given
to one of his sons. Few rain-makers die a natural
death ; most of them are killed. Masalakatzie said the
rain makers pleased his people.
No. 91, drawing: Ve.sper#lio: colour of back
and belly p~lish brown ; wings with more often
purple and of a lighter tint ; interfemoral membrane
thirily covered with some silky short whitish hair.
I j FEBRUARY (SUNDAY),

One of the principal Baharootzie chiefs arrived

yesterday. Oxen appear recovering slowly.
1 Knolls.
I Ngwaketsi.
• Mibba. c.hicf o( tbc Ngwaketai. See <Ampbell, J. Tr-U ;,, S#lli
A,fru. (Second Joumey), l,otidon, 1811., Vol, i, pp. ,14-,17.
 ilmUW SMIT!I DIAllT

16 FEBRUARY (MONDAY).

Schoon and McLuckie 1 were the first white people

who went to trade with Masalakatzie, whilst they were
hunting in his country.1 John Bloom's first commando
attacke<l him ; he took many of the guns when they
touched at his kraal. On their return they saw the
guns lying in one of the houses in which they kept
their shields and no care was taken of them. Masala-
katzie appeared to have then no idea of the effects of
firearms. He requested them to shoot at a large stone
which was at some distance. One of the Hottentots
did so [and] struck it with a ball partly lead [and]
partly pewter ; a mark of bluish colour remained 1
on the stone. Masalakatzie remarked that he could
make the same mark by breathing upon it. They then
requested him to turn out an ox that they intended
to kill and let them try the effect upon it. Schoon shot
it behind the ear ; it fell and a little trembling of the
fore legs only followed. Masalakatzie kept going
backwards till he reached the kraal, over which he
fell ; he then sprang up and retired to his house with-
out speaking a word and did not make his appearance
during that day. Never spoke again about guns.
He was very curt to them ; was very anxious for a
cannon, having heard of those at Natal. The traders do
great injury by promising to get articles not to be pro-
cured for him in order to induce him to trade with
l Schoon and McLuckic made this expedition in 1829. A /Jrkis of their
joumey will be found in Steedman, A., Wmukriwgs a1lli Ailvmlllres ;,, till
l•lmar of Solllbmt Ajri&a, London, 1835, Vol. ii, pp. 44-46 and IBJ-187.
• The north-west Transvaal. Full particulars of this area may be read in
Harrie, W. C., Thi Wild Spor'll of Solllbml Ajrk11, London, 1839. Harris
followed Smith'• route shortly after the latter's return to Upc Town in 1836,
and profited by his advice.
• Thie word ie undeciphenblc ; I suggest ' reimlncc\ •
 .ANDUW SMITH DIARY

them. One promised to get a white wife for him and

he was to receive 100 oxen. This man actually per-
suaded an Englishman to go to visit Masalakatzie and
take his wife with him. The man got a hint of it and
turned back in the Moharootzie country leaving the
villain who had led him so far alone. When Mr. Moffat
visited Masalakatzie in 18.i9 1 he passed several of
Masalakatzie's outposts and saw none with more
than 1 5o people, men, women and children, [and]
seldom more than 100. He neither saw nor heard ot
any kraals of warriors [and] seldom saw more than
five or six of the 111a&ha&ha,1 or trusty soldiers, at a
post. Thinks there were about 7 or 800 men about
Masalakatzie when he had an interview with him ;
on his approach [he] saw them pouring towards his
kraal from all directions. Masalakatzie returned part
of the way with him ; as they approached the posts the
subjects of Mas. poured out and approached the wag-
ons, leaping, dancing and scrcamm~ most hideously,
apparently quite delighted by the visit of their chief.
They are much pleased to see him approach because
there is always great killing of cattle when he visits an
outpost. When he wishes to destroy a man he causes
him to be drowned. Whilst Mr. Moffat was there one
man was convicted. Mas. said on account of Mr.
Moffat he would not kill him, but he desired him to
leave his presence and never more show himself but
to retire amongst the poor. The man said he could
not live under such Clis~race, that he could never
disgrace his ring ; toucliing it with his hand he pied
earnestly rather to be killed. His request was granted.
1 Sec Moffat, R., MiJsi~ Lti/Jo#rs tmJ Srn1s ;,, So111hml Afri"'• London,
J8.p, Ch. :ax. Moffat followed up Schoon and McLuckic on their return.
• Altllg""'1, or 1ciappina fdlowe.
 .ANDREW SMITH DI.ARY

His hands were tied behind his back and he was con-
veyed to a precipice and pushed over it into a deep
pool; a man accompanied him with a stick, probably
to break his head should he not be drowning. The
pool was full of crocodiles.

17 FEBRUARY (TUESDAY).

Visited the range of hills to the west of Kuruman

and ascended the highest peak.
In the aftcmoon a cow belonging to one of the
natives died of fll"ISi1. The right side was much
swollen and the outside of the thigh and hip had the
cellular membrane greatly distended with a yellowish
or amber coloured scrum. The disease presents a
great variety of appearances in different subjects. The
drawing A 1 represents the disease which attacked the
lip and angle of the mouth of a female who had eaten
of the flesh of an ox which had died of the disease ;
it became painful the following moming and has been
7 days in a state of ulceration. This day the discharge
has begun to increase and the swelling is subsiding ;
glands under chin still much swollen. I was re-
quested to see another case this evening ; subject, a
woman who had eaten of the diseased flesh. The
complaint has made its appearance on the left side of
the lower jaw rather below the line of the angle of
the mouth ; surface of skin irregular and rather in-
clined to ulcerate ; in spots great swelling of the entire
face and head, most however of the left side ; the
eyelids of both eyes highly oedematous and she is
unable to separate them sufficiently to enable her to
see. The whole skin of the face has a glistening shining
1 I QlllnOt ttlQC tbit dn1'iag.
 ANDJt.BY SMITH DI.AllY

appearance and appears extremely stretched. [She]

complains of no constitutional symptoms nor of much
pain [but] appears low and stupid. Gave her a dose
of jalap. Ishmael in the act of endeavouring to hold
an ox which was running off with the rim1 upon his
head fractured the inner ankle of the left leg.
Last night the hyaenas were very troublesome close
to our wagons, and were also endeavouring to get
into the kraals of the natives which contained sheep and
cattle. Several shots fired during the ni~ht to frighten
them away. The Caffer dogs very timid and do not
attack the hyaena. Mr. Moffat lent us a span of oxen
to take a wagon to the hills.

I 8 FEBRUARY (WEDNESDAY).

When Schoon first visited Masalakat%:ie he fell in

with the Zoola commando on its return from Milit-
sanee,1 placed several of the men who had sore feet
in their wagons and carried them to the chief's kraal.
Thinks the commando consisted of between 4 and
five thousand men ; a great part of them belonged to
Ratsipip. 8 When those of the latter had returned home
there remained about 1,000 Zoolas. They passed when
in company with the commando about eight or nine
cattle posts. At that time there were very few men
present, perhaps a chief and seven or eight men ; at
other times perhaps forty or fifty men at a post. The
kraal where they found Masalakattie was composed
of about fifty or sixty houses ; the house he lived in
I Ricm.
1 Molitlllni, chief of a clan of the BataunlJ. Theal, G. M., Hlslfl'J •f Sii/iD
Afrka (1854-1814), London, 1888, Vol. ilt, p. 504.
I llatbaipi, chief of the Jlathaidi. A branch of the RoJoaa.
 ANDllKW SMITH DIARY

was larger than the others. He danced in front of his

people and at such times was heavily laden with
beads, perhaps 20 lbs. When Schoon and MacLuckie
arrived he had nothing but Portuguese beads of a large
coarse description ; he kept all theirs and laid aside
those got from Delagoa Bay. He raid well for them.
At diriner time large quantities o meat was cooked
and carried to an open space upon ox hides ; then a
person of some importance was sent to the spit by
Masalakatzie who called out seven or eight men and
told them to eat. When these had enough the entire of
the people were called like a parcel of dogs, who soon
devoured what remained. The few men thus called
out were those who had distinguished themselves for
bravery on the commando from which they had just
returned. This took place daily. Sits much alone,
sometimes with a few of his chiefs near him. Schoon
was with him about a month or six weeks ; never
during that time heard of any person having been eut
to death. One man for attempting a rape was wb.ilst
they were there sentenced to have his cars and genital
organs cut off [and] was doing well.
Heavy thunder clouds and thunder in the afternoon
and rain towards evening. Night very close, sultry
and damp.
The Caffer women have generally easy and quick
labour, they sit as represented in sketch 1 and the
midwife does nothing till nearly the birth of the
child, at which time she supports the perineum. The
child falls upon the ground when it is bom and they
will on no account cut the umbilical cord till the
placenta is separated. Mr. M. has known that to
continue attached for four days and the string to con-
1 I caanot trace thia dnwlng.
 .ANDJ.EW SM1TR DIAR.T

tinue uncut, nevertheless shrivelled up and died away

almost to nothing. The midwife during the time of
labour scolds almost constantly the woman and com-
plains that she will not give birth to the child, that she
keeps it back, etc.
In the Kuruman school many read the scriptures
fluently and three were observed who wrote good
hands, one in particulat a young woman, daughter of
a Buchuana man ; the son of the same man was also
one of the three. Mr. Hamilton arrived at Griqua
Town in Feby., 1817, and shortlyafterwithsomeothcr
missionaries proceeded to Moteebe's kraal at Takoon.1
When he arrived there all were against their settling
amongst them, and urged as excuse that the men were
employed with their -karosses, the women with the
gardens and the young people with the herds, so that
there was no one that had time to attend to their in-
structions. He at last told them they might go and
reside at the Kuruman, instruct the Bushmen and trade
with them, and when they got rich enough they might
if they wished go home. Various circumstances oc-
curred which prevented them establishing themselves
immediately at Kuruman, and next year they visited
Takoon together with Mr. Read,1 who on his arrival
there did not speak of permission but asked Moteebe at
once where he was to build his house. The former
told him the place and since then missionaries have
always been with these people. On Mr. Hamilton's
first visit they appeared very averse to having mission-
aries and that was ~eatly increased by Conrad Buys,
who was in the neighbourhood and was just on his
a Old I.attalcoo, as opposed to New lattakoo, or Kuruman. Sec map.
I Of the London Missionary Society.
 .ANDREW SMITH DIARY

way to visit Moteebe when he heard of the white people

being at his kraal, which induced him to change his
mind. He told them they ought to have nothing to do
with these P.eople ; that they only came amongst
them to civilise them a little and then they wotild
carry them off beyond the seas. The entire of the
people seemed delighted when they saw the wagons
moving off and ke,et exclaiming " Nice white people,
nice." For a considerable time after they established
themselves, no persons scarcely attended - services
except at first, sometimes not more than three ventured
to church on Sunday. Even now few of the old and
principal people are of the congregation ; most of
them live at a distance from the station. The principal
people who have become the best Christians arc of
other tribes or the poorest of the tribe.
Saw this afternoon another case of fjlllll ri1, also
u_P,on the side of the lower jaw. Much swcmng of the
side of the head; had severe pain in the head before the
swelling but now none. No pain in the part affected,
nor fever, only a languor and stupid feel. The woman
mentioned yesterday had severe shiverings during a
whole night before the local disease made its ap-
pearance and also a good deal of headache, 11ith
drawing B.1 Slight elevation of the skin about the
size of a walnut with . . . . 1 edges and of a pale flesh
colour thinly studded with small vesicles of an irre~
shape, and filled with a sort of amber coloured ffuid ;
also some similar vesicles below the part just referred
to with a similar coloured fluid, in the centre of the
elevated part an irregular small ulcention of a blackish
tint.
1 I cannot trace this drawing.
• Word undecipherable.
 ANDREW SMITH DIAlll'

19 FEBB.UAB.Y (THUB.SDAT).

3 new cases of q11atsi1. [In] one, vesicles distributed

thinly over the upper extremities and a few on body
little elevated above the skin, but appear to sink
the crys 1· e lens. Contain a pale straw coloured
rather d~j] ~to the soft parts. In form somewhat like
fluid. When it escapes the upper covering sinks into
the cavity left in consequence of the escape of the
fluid. The other two, children. [In] one, on side of
neck just under angle oflower jaw; [in) the other, in
front of throat to right of pomum adami. In the first
a small irregular substance is hanging attached by a
fine thread to the centre of sore ; this they say escaped
from centre of sore. All round this a superficial
ulceration of a healthy appearance. Considerable
5wclling of glands of neck ; had the same disease on
the right temple a year ago ; has eaten none of the
dead cattle. The other is at present a small oblong
ulcer with a central nucleus protruding between the
edges of the sore. The protruding part the natives say
will fall out.
Whenever Masalakatzie's commando succeeds in
taking cattle to any number be makes a new post and
places them there with a strong party to guard them.
A Buchuana told me the other day that the Corannas
were the most useless people in the world ; that they
could only make bambusus,1 sleep and steal cattle.
The Coranna women are very much addicted to gaiety
in their doings, and it is considered a misfortune
when a native of the country about Kuruman gets
married to one of them.
i The wooden milk Teucla of the Koran.a.
 AND~ SMITH DIARY

.20 FEBllUARY (FRIDAY).

The Buchuanas have nets for packing their stores

upon oxen ; they make them of the bark of the
thom tree. The natives more to the interior, such
as the Bamangwato,1 make them of the sinews of
animals such as the camel,1 rhinoceros, ox, etc. They
make sambucs 8 of the camel skin. Value their nets
highly, hence difficult to procure.
Mr. Hamilton,' who witnessed the burial of a Bat-
clapin chief, says they dug the grave under the wall
of the kraal, put the body in and removed all the
coarse portions of the clay, then 6.lled the fine into
wooden bowls and strewed it round the body, trod
it down round the body with the feet, rubbed first
the inside of the grave with slices of a bulb. After they
had covered it up (they] threw several basins of water
over the grave, and then the persons who had been
actively engaged in the burial ceremony washed their
hands to cleanse themselves. The Baralongs do not
follow that ceremony.
At a certain age the Buchuana girls are collected
together to be instructed into the secrets of woman.
The old women on this occasion make them acquainted
with all that they will be required to meet as married
women. On that occasion they are severely flogged in
order to inure them to suffering and to give them an
idea of what pain they will have to undergo in giving
birth to children, etc. The young women who last
underwent the chastisement are employed to inflict
it. That ceremony goes on for a month during which
i Ngwato.
I Gl.railc.
• Sjambob.
' Compete Moffat, op. di., Ch. n:a:.
T
 ANDREW SMITH DIARY

time they are not seen by the males of the kraal.

They are kept apart in a separate house and during
much of the night go on amusing themselves singing,
etc. About daybreak they leave the kraal for die
neld and return about dusk ; should it happen that
they return rather early they arc surrounded by the
old women [so] that they cannot be seen. The second
month they are permitted to wander about in the
kraal, but are prohibited from conversing with men.
The same prohibition takes place with the boys who
have been circumcised ; they are not permitted to
enter into conversation with the women for a month
after they return to the kraal. This applies to the
Batclapins. They cut nothing in the case of the females.
When a chief dies he is buried under the wall of
the cattle kraal. The earth which is dug out of the
grave is perfectly cleaned of all roots, stones, etc., and
put round the corpse, water in great abundance [is
poured] over the grave, and all the cattle of persons of
any importance are brought to the kraal, and after the
wall is repaired which is done by carrying it a little out-
wards so as to inclose the grave, they are driven into
it in order to trample the surface hard and :Bat. The
wife is by the law required to lie on her belly or in
some other position for two or three weeks and to
wear her caross or cap with the hairy side out. After
that the brother sends some of her relations to wash
and cleanse her ; he then takes her as his wife. Some-
times [he] only keeps her till she can get another
husband; at other times [he] keeps her altogether.
They never attempt to assist a woman during
labour ; if all goes well it is fortunate, if not she
dies. The rest of the women sit round and talk about
 ANDREW SMITH DI.ARY

common alfairs. Deaths not common. Labours usual-

ly quick ; four or five hours, sometimes several days.
Mahura observed to some of his men that circum-
cision did not seem to be of any avail, but he observed
that those who were not circumcised were the persons
whom he could most trust ; those that were often,
indeed always, were the first to run. It appeared to
him as if it made men more timid.
The natives who were unclothed suffered less
from the small pox three years ago than those
who were clothed. Many at the Kuruman arc
much marked by them ; several have had their eyes
injured. At Campbell many of the best people died
of them. Mr. Lemue 1 suffered severely from them,
also an English man servant to Mr. Moffat.
Jonker,• who has been nearly z.o years a resident
amongst the Caffers, informs me that he has never
been able to get any man to speak clearly to him about
the circumcision though he lias many friends amongst
them.
Before life has departed they begin to force the
body into the position into which it is to be placed in
the grave. They are very particular about placing the
face to the north and they state that they place it so
because their forefathers came from country in that
direction.
2.1 FEBRUARY (SATURDAY).

[They] draw blood by cupring ; raise a fold of the

skin and make a number o transverse cuts with a
1 Prosper Lemuc, of the Paris Evangelical Society. He was stationed at
Motito, to the north-cast of Kuruman. Sec may.
1 Jonker Afrikaner, son of the notorious Jager, lftcrwards Christian
.MrilUmcr.
274 ANDREW SMITH DIARY

smill instrument formed for the purpose before

applying the horn, wash it 1 within and without with
pure water, suck by the extremity of the horn during
the whole time and with the other hand keep drawing
the finger and thumb up the sides of the horn on op-
fOSite sides. The second application of [the] hom
(is made] without cleansing away the dried or con-
gealed blood. [They] shut the extremity of the hom
when they remove the mouth with the thumb, under-
standring] that it is necessary to keep the air exhausted,
and that a fissure in the horn unfits it for the instru-
ment to perform the suction.
Several other cases of fj114lsi1, some in early stage
like a Battened tumour, which on the surface becomes
sottered • like an imperfect burn, towards centre a
black point soon appears which is succeeded by an
ulcer, and several vesicles run in different parts around
point ; [it] occurs principally during damp, rainy
weather.
Clahaniani, 8 a Batclapin chief, states that when
they are going to war all the people are assembled
together, then an ox or a bull is slaughtered and eaten.
All sorts of herbs are brought together and prepared
in various ways, then mixed with the fat of the beast ;
their bodies are afterwards rubbed with that. Some of
the medicines are also powdered and a portion of the
powder given to each, who ties it up in a piece of skin
and fixes it to his shield. When they approach the
enemy they untie it, put a portion of the powder on
the palm of the hand and blow it towards the enemy.
Portions of the medicine are carried in homs and on
1 ].1•• the bom.
• Sottet, hi Scetl, means" to boil alowly."
1 Mstlhmyaie.
 ANDREW SMITH DIARY

branches of shrubs and waved and blown when near

the enemy by the magicians who arc forced to proceed
a little in advance of the commando.
Several new cases of ljlklfsi1 have been discovered
to-day amongst the natives. All have been eating of
the dead cattle. One under the right armpit ; the skin
affected is about 4 inches in length and two inches in
bread~ vide drawing C.1 The skin is considerably
elevated and irregular and as if slightly burst ; when
touched hard and rigid with here and there drops of
a serous looking fluid oozing out but no distinct
vesicles. Colour : pale rosy along the centre of the ele-
vated parts ; an irregular ulceration of a darkish tint
and quite dry ; considerable surrounding swelling
which is gradually lost in the surrounding parts and
consideraole hardness which extends deeply towards
the ribs. Some time before the local disease appeared
he suffered from cold chills, and about the time it
appeared had severe headache. At l'resent he com-
plains of sickness at stomach and occasional pains in the
bowels ; very sensitive to cold ; is dull and languid ;
pulse not much affected ; tongue loaded ; bowels
confined. [They] generally rub the affected parts with
a sort of ointment formed of fat and powdered bushes.
Arend 1 generally makes a few incisions in the part
affected and introduces into them a little tobacco oil ;
says in most cases that prevents the extensive ulcera-
tion and sloughing, not however in all. Saw one
i I cannot traa: this mawing.
• .Aimd, or Aaron. Jotepha was a runaway slave who obtained hia fftcdom
through the intervention Of George Thompson. the traveller, and who came
to live at Kuruman with hia wife and f'ainily. See Moffat, R., Mi.lsioMry
s- ;,,
Ltl/Jr;,w.s tlllll SOlllbmt AjtW, Loodon, 1842, pp. 49'-497· See also
c.ampbcll. J.• TrtMl.s ;,, SOlllb Aft*11 (Second Joum.y). Lciadcm, 11.ta,
Vol. ii, PP• 5J6-559.
 ANDREW SMITH DIARY

woman who was .recovering from the disease which

had its site on the forehead. There was a black crust
the size of the part affected separating at the edges
and yet firmly attached ; towards the cent.re some-
what like a shilling. The cent.re is the part at which it
separates last, and sometimes the diseased part ad-
heres for several days at that point only by a substance
not thicker than a thread .

.21 FEBRUARY (SONDAY).

Q11atsi1 extending amongst the natives ; a horse

belonging to Mr. Moffat died of the sickness. Also
an ox, one of the young oxen belonging to the Associ-
ation,1 attacked with the sickness ; much swelling in
front of the .right shoulder on the side of neck. When
the wind blows from the southward, very cold ;
duiing the winter when from the northward, warm
and dry.

1, FDR.UAllT (MONDAY).

uerta No.... : I Head, body and cxt.tcmities jet

black ; on side of head a white longitudinal st.ripe
and an oblique one of the same coloui ; from hinder
angle of eye to lower part of neck a partial ring of
five .reddish white spots ; behind neck an interrupted
line of yellow ; along cent.re of back and towards
head some small yellowish spots ; on each side of
dorsal line on fore and hinder cxt.temities some fine
yellow dots ; on last joints tail .reddish brown ; the
yellow line of back extends down it a short way, on
I The Cape of GOod Hope Aeaociatioa.
• No nwDbcr pa.
 ANDREW SMITH DIARY

each side of yellow line a black stripe from black of

back, broadest towards back. Length about six inches ;
a slender species caught between Kuruman and old
school.
Left Kuruman about 11 a.m. and reached the place
where Seretz 1 lives about i past two in consequence
of having been delayed by finding it necessary to
change some of the oxen in consequence of sickness.
Here are three distinct kraals of considerable size and
some smaller ones : one of the large ones belongs to
Seretz, a Baclaru 1 chief, with his people ; another be-
longing to the Barolong under Malala, 3 a famous
commando maker in old days and who went once
against the Damaras, and the other is under Deentu'
the proper Baclaru king.
24 FEBRUARY (TUESDAY).

Sctube,1 on the attack of Clas Dryer,• fled with a

party of people to the Damara country. They entered
about Honey Vley ; 7 from the fley 8 till they reached
the Damara country they got no water. About zoo
persons, men, women and children, also cattle, they
lived entirely on the water melon ; 11 there were plenty
1 Seretse, chief of the Tiharo. See Campbell, J., TrQlll/r i11 Sotdb Afrinl
(Second Joumcy), London, 1822, Vol. ii, pp. 76, 8I and 103.
I Tiharo.
1 A Tihaping chief, brother of Mothibi. See Campbell, J., •P· di.,
Vol. ii, p. 66,
'Dintho.
I Sethobe (?),
1 Klaas Dreyer, who with Jacob Ooete led a horde of bandits of mhed
nee against the Tiharo. See Stow, G. W., Thi NoliH /Wu of Sllldh Afrita,
London, 1880, \>· no.
' Honing Vlei, or Chue. The furthest point reached by W. J. Burchell
in lBu. See map•
• Vlei.
• The tr11m11111 (Cilnllllu tllligorir) ii regularly med by dwcllen in the
Kalahari deac:t when food ancf water arc scarce.
 ANDREW SMI'I'H DIAl\.Y

of them good, but not quite so good as the right

water melon.
The surface of the country entirely sand and quite
flat. Along the roads men cannot walk, they sink
several inches in the sand ; but on the sides of the
road they can walk without sinking. The whole face
of the country is thickly covered with mimosa, camel
thorns. etc., so that persons crossing are forced to
follow the roads made by antelopes, etc. There arc
neither Heys nor wells ; the rain sinks in the ground.
Camel, wildebeast, eland, springbok, steenbock,
duiker, roodekat, muskalcat, kat leopard, and tyger,
also lions.
They used to bring all the skins for sale to the
Batclapins, but since Sabiquoa 1 has gone to live there
he has killed part of the people and the rest he forces
to bring the skins to him. Never saw a rock on their
course, but where the Damaras live there are rocks.
Says that he has heard of a large lake 1 which lies be-
tween the Damaras and the Bomareme or Bamangwato;
from the Damaras where he was about as far as Philli-
polis. The Bamangwato live there ; in some places
the water is narrow, in other places broad. The water
runs to the west. As soon as they crossed the Kalahari
desert, they got to a country where they generally
get water; sometimes they must dig pits. On the
west of this country is also a desert before they reach
the Damaras; nine days crossing the second desert.
The country where they lay was in appearance like
the country about Kuruman, a good deal of high
bush sur.rounding the vleys ; had always water in a
1 Sobikwa, 100 of Mabb&, chief of the Npaketae.
I Lake Ngami.
 ANDREW SMITH DtAR~

spring. Sibiquoa is now residing there. The Damaras

make woodwork the same as the Batclapins and cover
the roofs with skins. They do not assemble in large
kraals like the Batclapins but in parties about six,
eight or ten houses together. There is in that country
plenty of water. Before they arrived there Moguana 1
lived there and they fought about the country ; the
Moguana were beaten and fled to the Bamangwato ;
they had about the distance of Phillipolis to go.
There were Bakalahari 1 there and they lived with them.
There was but little water by the vleys and they were
only hollows or valleys which were covered with
grass but of small extent. The Damaras stick and
throw hassegays. They, the Damaras, have a sort of
short petticoat made of small thongs which hangs
from the loins to near the knees ; inside of this in
front a piece of skin to cover the organs of genera-
tion. They have sheep and cattle but no goats.
Pechua a was at the lake. Molala sent him from the
vleys where they were living in the Kalahari. [He] was
ten days travelling without water. Moreme' was
the chief of the Bamangwato who resided on the lake ;
they are of the same nation as those that live near
Masalakatzie. He took beads to exchange cattle. The
same evening Sebitwani's 1 commando arrived and
killed many of the people and took their cattle. They
have a wooden thing called coro. •
1 Kwcna.
I Kgalagadi.
I Petawa.
'Moremi.
• Scbetwane, • chW who oriaimlly formed put of the Mantati horde,
but who, after their diaruption, l'onned hia own folce of wurion, cm.8y
Fokeng, and attacked and overcame Mabba, chief of the NawakctR.
1 Koro, a canoe.
.zao ANDREW SMITH DIARY

It is a river as broad as to the Kuruman (7 miles) ; the

water runs to the west. Sea cows are in the water.
The crocodile is also there. A commando of Masala-
katzie went against the Damaras, but the latter
destroyed them. About the vley there are no large
hills, only ridges and thick bush ; the desert finishes
before the vley is reached. There is a sort of people
who live on the outskirts of the Damara country
which are called by the Borolongs Masaru,1 who speak
the language of the Damaras. They are entirely naked,
both men and women. They have a small piece of
wood through the nostrils and bows and arrows. He
was two years with Malala at these Beys. Sibiquoa's
people when flying from Masalakatzie attacked them,
but they vanquished them and the invaders Bed. After
this Malala's people left for this country. During their
return many women, children, cattle and men died
from thirst. The Damaras attack during the night.
In a commando against those people Clas Dryer was
killed.
During the middle of the day very hot. Ther-
mometer in the shade 89. The heat is here oppressive
though the thermometer does not rise very high.
Oas Dryer, as far as a subject of Waterboer's be-
lieves, never went on commandoes against the Bat-
clapins till his wife was carried off by Mohura 1 with
her own consent and that of her father, a Griqua,
Wm. Japtha. At the time ~:!tha was living in Langc-
berg and Dryer was with · . After he lost his wife
he left his father-in-law and carried on the conunan-
does. The Berganheers also went on commandoes
l Buahmcit•
• A. Tlhapina chief.
 ANDREW SMITH DIARY 28t

flgainst the Batclapins amongst others. Hoyman, John

David, John Bloom and a certain number of Corannas
which usually stood under Dam and Barend were also
associated with them. This same informant states
that he has understood that Sturman 1 who with his
banditti has lately been so troublesome on the river
was killed by a portion of his party. They seized his
arms when he was off his guard and then put him to
death. The Berghaneers were twice troublesome,
first when in company with Hendrick Hendricks,
Andries Hendricks, etc., and on that occasion a com-
mando went against them headed by Waterboer and
attacked them upon a hill on the south of the Riet
River towards Phillipolis. Cornelius Kok was also
with the commando. They fought in the day and the
Berghaneers fled during the night. Soon after this they
made peace, and then rose again headed by Jan Bloom,
Jan David, brother of Peter David, and Gert Hoyman.
They passed Griqua Town down the river, then or-
ganised a commando and returned and attacked Griqua
Town, were repulsed, fled down again and soon after
returned a second time [and] were again repulsed.
Waterboer followed them with a commando, attacked
them and put them to flight. Since that no more
commandoes. Amongst the persons which were
executed by Waterboer were Pict Hendricks and
Engelbright, son of Gert Engelbright. Leucas and
J antjie Hoyman were heads of the commando which
came to Kuruman from the east and made peace at
last through the interference of Mr. Moffat. Gert
Hoyman and Jan David both fell in Barend's com-
mando by the hands of Masalakatzie' s people.
a A Hottentot robber. Tbcal. G. M., Hu-, of SOlllb Aft*" (1B54-1IJ4),
Loadoo, 1888, Vol. ill, p. m·
 ANDREW SMITH DIAR.Y

Thermometer at nine a.m. 76. Oear. 4 oxen sick.

From School to Seretz' 1 7t·
2 J FEBRUARY {wm>NBSDAY).

Grey partridge : Sichuana 11.thooh• (perhaps the

h ought to be wanting) to lay, from his often lying
down and permitting persons to kill him. Consider
it a stupid bird.
This is the Kuruman, the station Saree. The hills,
Hamhana, a from the peak resembling a stick for
digging.
A Maclaru told his son that he must go and assist
his sick mother to get into a shade. He made use ot
a few ridiculous remarks and went off. The father
said he must go himself as the probabilities were the
son would go wandering about the kraal and never
think of hiS mother. There appears but little filial
affection ; often strong parental affection.
Thermometer at noon 88. Ooudy; wind from the
north.
Left Kuruman and reached ....... ' about dusk.
About the latter there runs more water in the channel
of the river and there are abundance of Ca.ffer gardens
wherever there is any humidity.
After bleeding one or two Caffers almost the whole
kraal made application to have the same operation
pctformcd. One man had a pain in his loins and he
was very anxious to have blood taken from the foot.
l The place of the chief Scretle.
•IAn,.
• Gunobuo. a few milet N.W. of KUl'1lmlll.
• No mme aiTCD.
 ANDREW SMITH DIARY

It was always with difficulty that (I] could get them

to permit me to tie up the arms to stop the flow of
blood. Mr. Moffat informs me that he has been per-
mitted time after time to bleed them, and with him
they showed the same desire to lose great quantities.
They are also very partial to medicine and take any
with avidity which may be given to them. [They]
have great faith in purgatives and emetics. One man
presented himself for advice who had an enlargement
of the brachia! artery just above the elbow, and its
shape and pulsations were very distinct. It appeared
as if inclined to ossify.
The quantity of cattle possessed by these kraals is
small, having lost them through attacks of the
Corannas, etc.
26 FEBRUARY (THURSDAY).

(M.) No. 96: 1 Head, breast, neck mcnscapulars dark

shining green ; back brownish ; rump dull dark
blue ; shoulders like head ; wing feathers brown
black, some of them edged with a lighter brown and
some of the innermost of secondaries quite brown ;
tail even green black, the two centre feathers brown-
ish ; belly black with metallic reflections ; hinder
belly, vent and under tail coverts white; legs and
bill black, an orange tuft under each shoulder ; eyes
nearly black. Length about 4t inches. Thom and
camelbooms. Tail even.
(Fem.) Above, light grey brown, most inclined to
brown on rump ; beneath, white with a greenish
tint on throat and breast; tail coverts green black; tail
the same; shoulders same colour as back; secondaries
1 No name aivm for this bitd.
 ANDREW SMITH DIARY

and primaries brownish with a slight tint of green and

many of them edged and tipt with dull white ; bill
and legs dark hom colour, smaller than the male.
Travelled about two hours along the Kuruman River
and then halted for the night; no water.
2.7 FEBRUARY (PRIDAY).

Started at daylight and travelled along the channel

of the Kuruman and a little above where it joins [theJ
Matluare 1 so named from the olive trees which grow
along its bed and which are called ma!Jltlrl.1 The
water in this river used to run but now it has entirely
disappeared for the last three years. The name of the
spring ·here is Malichan or Malichana, • so called be-
cause the mud is so deep that if an animal falls in it
cannot get out again. This spring ever since the people
remember has been of the same strength. The hill
to the north of this is called Tsening.' The hills
(low) to the south are called Patani.e, or Poort. 1 Last
year three elephants came to drink and got fast in
the mud ; all three were killed and with the teeth
the Caffer bought a gun. The Malopo joins the
Kuruman near to its union with the Orange River,
towards the sources of [the] Malopo there is water
and at Queis • there used to be water when the Baclaru
with Morua lived there. 7
1 Matlaring River. See map.
• Mot/Jnpa,6, an olive uce.
• Mllllij-, or little pools. Smith's meaning is wrong.
•See map.
• Patani, not far from Tsenin.
• Qaeis, or Kweis, was on the Molopo River. On modem maps it is
spelled Khuis.
' Campbell, J., Trt1111/s i11 Solllh Afrial (Second Journey), London, 1812.1
Vol. ii, p. 107. The date wu 1Bao.
 ANDREW SMITH DIAllT

rHe] was born near Griqua Town, was young when

old Barend came to Griqua Town ; he was about 20
years of age. 1 No persons lived in that country ex-
cept Bushriien before Barend came there ; in that time
there were poor Caffers living about Blink Klip 1 and
Langeberg. This Bushman was with the commando
in which Piet Pinnear [and] Jan Bloom took the Caffet
cattle ; they attacked them at the place of Seretz.
The Caffers fled towards the north ; the commando
pursued and took the cattle belonging to the posts.
They shot a great many of the Caffers and took a
great number of cattle, sheep and goats. It was a large
commando and all the Bushmen were pressed into
the service. The chief of the Corannas that went with
Jan Bloom was commonly called old Laino. When
the commando returned home then the Corannas
went up the river above Griqua Town. The Bushmen
used to take their cattle from them and at last they fled
to the Hart's River. The Bushmen were very numerous
in those days, but now they are very few having all
been killed by the civilised people and also the Coran-
nas. Jan Bloom gave the Bushmen but few cattle.
They had no chiefs when they went on a commando
to steal cattle ; a chief was appointed for the time
being and when the commando returned he was dis-
charged. They selected a man that was brave in order
to be ready to fight if they were pursued. He was
about fourteen years of age when he went on the
commando of Bloom.
In that time there was much more water in the
Kuruman than at present, also in all the other rivers ;
all ran. There were more springs also in those days ;
1 A local Bushman who was being questioned by Smith.
• Near Postma&burg.
 .ANDR:!'W SMITH DIARY

Griqua Town's spring was also very strong. There

were rhinoceros, elephants, buffalo, etc. in those
times about Griqua Town. Bushmen in those times
lived on the south of the river. Says he always heard
the Caffers lived in the district of Phillipolis but he
never saw them. Had no cattle in those times ; says
the Bushmen never had cattle from old times. H they
stole cattle they always eat them up ; they would not
keep them to breed because being other men's cattle
they were afraid that the owners would come and
retake them. They did not purchase their wives [but]
carried them [off] by force ; would repair to a house
and take a girl by force ; nevertheless the woman and
her parents were averse to it. They sometimes fought
in consequence of carrying them away so. They
pursue the same system now where they live apart.
They had sometimes two wives; part used to run away
to the old people, part remained.
28 FEBRUARY (SATURDAY).
The Bushmen will not keep cattle nor goats because
if one party have them there is immediately a com-
mando made by some others to take them away.
When the district of one set of Bushmen has not had
rain they go to a district which has had rain and live
with them for a time till their district gets rain, then
they return. When berries are ready in a district all
repair there; one district's people must not hunt in
another's district, else they have war over it, taking
away life. Han old sensible man be present he may
perhaps be able to prevent murders, but if only young
people, and any object is to be found, they hesitate not
for a moment ; they think nothing about killing a
person, one of their own or of strangers. Ever since
 ANDREW SMITH DIARY

he can remember it has always been a feeling amongst

Bushmen that if a Caffer can be got in the hand he
must be murdered. They have always had a sort of
respect for civilised people and would not generally
murder them. The Caffers are more brave; they always
conquer the Bushmen. The Bechuanas are always
overcome by the Bushmen.1 The Bushmen invariably
murdered Corannas whenever they had an opportunity
and the feeling was great against the Caffers and
Corannas by the old Bushmen. The Bushmen cannot
regard a person with good feelings who endeavours
to establish a friendship between them and any other
people ; they consider that such friendship is only
calculated to work their destruction ; they prefer to
live at enmity and then they are perpetually on their
guard against everybody. The Bushmen are in the
habit of burying an infant or one which is yet nursing
with its mother ; if she dies they place the child alive
in the same hole. When there is great want of food
they sometimes leave their children in the field to die
of hunger. When a Bushman happens to be killed
on a commando, his bow and sttin~ are burnt but
they save the arrows. [They arc] afraid that the sweat
of the man which may have dried on the bow may
injure them. The string is burnt on purpose that the
sons shall not be so unlucky. They put something
in the nostrils when they work with a dead man to
prevent them inhaling the smell of the dead ; [they]
think it might cause their death. They say that they
cut women or men open because the Coranna kill and
do so to Bushwomen as they get them; perhaps drive
a piece of wood into the vagina and leave her lying so.
1 Possibly because of their poisoned arrows, which the Tswana did not
understand. Compare Maingard. L. P •• Blllllll Stwli11, Johannesburg, 1951,
Vol. vi, No. a, p. 114.
v
288 ANDREW SMITH DIAR.Y

Before he was born he has heard from old people that

Caffers lived about Griqua Town and Wittewater,
and stone kraals were there when the Griquas first
arrived. The Bushmen and Caffers were to a certain
extent intermixed in old times. The holes which they
made about Wittewater 1 to catch game used to be
examined by the Bushmen, and if any game [was] in
them they used to take them; they also began to steal
from the Caffers, and from the latter the Caffers
fled back with nothing. He says that the Bushmen
were the first to break the peace. He says that he has
heard when young from the old people that the Bush-
men were the first inhabitants of the country, and
that the Caffers came into the country and seized the
best places and over that the wars originated. Never
since his time had the Bushmen cattle, nor he ever
heard from the oldest men that any of them had had
cattle; that their habit was wherever they saw them
they killed the people in charge and took away the
cattle.
[They] have a tradition that the Bushmen came
out of a hole near White Water and there was an
appearance of a foot path which the old people used
to say the devil made for the Bushmen to walk upon.
The locusts and honey bees also came out of that
hole. They think the devil made the road as they
have been so unlucky. They think the snakes also
came out of the hole at Wittewater.
The E11phorbia juice with the dried J>Oison of
snakes and the gall of a certain snake 1ll1Xed up is
used for making their poison. They prefer the . . ..1
1 About 18 miles south-west of Gd~wn.
1 Word missing; it ia sjJllllgb, or 'spitting.' See Smith, A., /U111trdliot11
of ti# Z•/ov of SOtllb AfrW, London, 1838, Reptilia.
 ANDREW SMITH DIARY

slang 'obra 'api/ ,· 1 they mix the eggs of spiders

and their hea<fs also.
The Bushmen of this side used to visit those on the
south of the Orange River and there, they say, [arc]
prettier women than at home. Then they make a com-
mando and carry her off. It is first agreed upon who
shall have the women. The Bushmen from the
Colonial side used also to retaliate in the same way.
David Hume,2 a trader, has certainly been farther
to the north in the longitude of Latakoo than any
other person who has returned. He visited the clan
called Bamangwato and was informed by the chief
that there was a very large river about five days to
the north of him, where his uncle with another por-
tion of the clan was living; that the portion he (the
informant) was with had emigrated from the uncle's
party. He said none of the people knew what was
on the other side of the river ; they could indistinctly
see sandy flats but whether these were inhabited or
not they could not say. Before he arrived at the
Bamangwato country he had to cross a large river
like the Vaal River, and on reaching it he travelled
11 days down it. Its course was to the east, and to the
east of where he turned back [he] saw a range of very
high mountains, running, he thinks, about N.N.E.
Hume with 2.7 shooters were behind Masalakatzie on
a hunting expedition at the time Barend attacked him.
One night whilst the commando was in the vicinity,
a large party of Masalakatzie's people were sent to
attack Hume's party and had actually encircled them.
1 Cobra da taptllo.
1 David Hume, with another traveller named Huf$h Millin, visited the
Northern Transvaal about the beginning of 1833. Their report caused great
excitement in Cape Town, and led directly to the formation of the A11ociation
which sponsored Smith's &pedition. See Steedman, A., Wtllllhrinv and
.AJ/iomturu in So11thern Afrka, London, 1sn, Vol. ii, p. 141.
 ANDREW SMITH DIARY

Some of the men had gone out to a pool to watch

rhinoceroses, and some arriving they fired upon them.
This led the Caffers to fancy that they were sur-
rounded by Hume's party instead of the party being
surrounded by them, and they instantly fled. A day
or two after Masalakatzie sent two red oxen for sale
and also a message that all was well with them ; that
they must leave the country in peace. Hume knew
nothing of his hairbreadth escape till he went in again
next year, when he was told of it by the people, who
laughed at their mistake. The party having passed
the next day a large post of cattle and having neither
disturbed men nor cattle inclined Masalakatzie to
believe that they were not in any way connected with
the commando, and led him to send the message as
stated. When Barend's commando was attacked the
cattle were all lying on one side of the party, and the
first thing the party did was to drive them upon the
Griquas and to intermix themselves with them and
strike every man they could get at. The Buchuanas
who were forming part of the commando were on the
other side, and they immediately fled in amongst the
Griquas, hence all was confusion. Masalakatzie had
a gun which was taken on that occasion with the
ball just about a finger's length down the barrel.
From the Black River as far as this place one of the
most common birds has been the Co/11111ba capensis.
In places where the water is scanty it may during the
whole day be procured in great abundance by placing
a person near to the water ; sometimes a dozen will
arrive together [to] drin~ which they do very quickly
and vanish instantly. There always appears on those
occasions to be more males than females. All the
Fringil/ida1 seem to be very partial to water and
 .ANDltl'!W SMITH DIAltT 291

regularly during hot weather repair to it several times

in the course of the day to drink. The Pter0&/ts
lathypetes in the morning and afternoon in large
flights constantly screaming as they fly ; they also
drink quickly and are immediately on the wing again.
The Pterocles bicinclm was found to the west of
the Kuruman at all the water places. The drinking
time for this !t:ies is in the dusk of the evening and
seldom more two or three arrive at once without
noise ; they rest but for an instant and then fly again.
About the missionary institution at Kuruman the
kuikenduif is often seen ; more seldom at the lower
place and from thence scarcely at all.
Masalakatzie is very particular in his inquiries rela-
tive to [the] Colony and when answers are not given
to questions in a direct manner he will smile and
slyly look to his old men and grin. He will never cat
before he has washed, even when with Hume, till
nearly 12 o'clock. One day without having eaten he
was offered a basin of coffee, an article which he
particularly admired ; he refused, saying he could not
eat not having washed that day. Should he be without
his kaross. 1 One of the principal points inMasalak.atzie's
policy is to gain the confidence of a tribe he intends
to attack and then when that is in his opinion secured
he falls upon it. To ensure that, he is 10 the habit of
sending friendly messages or even a wife to the chief.
The messages generally convey his pretended respect
and friendship, and information that though he has
attacked such and such persons they may sleep easy.
That as has already been stated was done to Mohatla 8
l Smith 1tarted a new topic bcic, but stopped. He recommences it in
~ (:hl&f:~uruthae, driven from Moaep by Mzilikui ; for Mosega
1ee map.
a92 ANDREW SMITH DI.AltY

immediately before he attacked him, and several other

similar instances have been mentioned to me. The
chiefs are all now so well acquainted with his plans
that they consider themselves always in most danger
when, if they were to credit him, they are most secure,
Sibiqua is also a great tyrant amongst his people and
puts more of his subjects to death than Masalakatzie
does. It is only three years ago that Masalakatzie ~ot
to know Ramapip, and Kama,1 the Baquana 1 chief,
acted as guide to a commando which went against
the Bamangwato. Ramapip has lately taken the cattle
of the Bamangwato, and six men came out with Hume
to go to Masalakatzie to request his assistance against
them. He sent a commando against him and destroyed
him ; also at the same time destroyed the Bamangwato.
A portion of the tribes which attacked Takoon fled
to the north and are now living beyond the Bamang-
wato under the name of Mantaties ; they have aprons
like the Basutu and Backloqua. 8
Should Masalakatzie happen to be without his
kaross and wish it, a servant goes off and brings it in
a basket and places it on the ground a little distance
from him. Another man goes, takes it out and puts
it over his shoulders. He then stands up and arranges
it himself. If he wants beer, a little girl, said to be his
daughter, brings it in a basket and presents it upon
her knee ; when in that position she first tastes it
and then he drinks it. He has a son about fifteen or
sixteen years of age ; he lives at a kraal apart from his
father [and] has charge of it, and all at that kraal
are boys of about the same age as himself.
1 K.hama.
1 Kweoa.
• 11okwa.
 ANDREW SMITH DIARY

Every year the entire of the boys are collected to-

gether and all about ten years of age are turned out
and set apart to form a new post. They are told that
they have charge of the cattle and are to defend them,
though that is not really intended, the kraal being
formed between some of the other posts. They are not
required when of that age to go on commandoes, but
when about sixteen they go out under the charge
of an old man, and when of this age they are said to
fight equal to the grown up men. His posts arc
placed with considerable regularity. His own kraal
ts nearly in the centre of his country, and then his
principal soldiers are placed round him in posts
not very distant from each other and no one of them
more than an hour's walk from his kraal. At these
posts his best cattle and those for breeding are kept ;
outside of those again are placed posts about nine
in number in each direction where he fears the
approach of any enemies. Thus in the direction of
Kuruman he has eight or nine posts, in the direction
in which the Griquas can approach him eight or ten,
in the direction of Sabiqua a like number, and in the
direction in which Dingan's commando approaches
also a number. Each of these divisions have the
different kraals so placed that they are within sight
of each other. Between each of those posts in the
openings he has small Buchuana kraals, but these
are within the outer circle so :
At these outposts the worst
cattle are kept. Masalakatzie
will not eat of stolen cattle ;
he breeds cattle for his own
use. Those taken in com-
mandoes are employed for the
 ANDREW SMITH DIARY

people. The kraal where his own cattle are kept is in

one of the most secure parts of the country and
scarcely any of the people are permitted to go near it,
lest by their traces an enemy snould discover it. His
son has also his own cattle for breeding. Sibiqua
acts in the same way in regard to his own private
cattle. Masalakatzie has a brother who is a great
rascal. His mother is still alive, and resides at one
of his kraals ; she has more power than any of the
people at the kraal. Masalakatzie's warriors always
carry three hassegays, one a light one with a handle
about the same length as the other ; this they throw
with the finger. The other two they will not throw
away ; they keep one in reserve lest the other break it.
When Masalakatzie's people arrive at his kraal
from an outpost or from any other situation to
report to him, they leave their hassegays and shields
at a considerable distance from his kraal and approach
within 1 oo yards of him, then stand still and scream
out their tale ; perhaps at that distance he gives an
answer [or] perhaps calls the man to approach.
Should the communication have pleased the chief
and he gives a pleasant answer, the reporter departs
towards his shield and hassegay leaping, dancing
and performing all sorts of antics.
The Buchuana dislike wagons approaching their
habitations because they have discovered that Masa-
lakatzie' s commandoes have more than once followed
their trails and attacked them. Heavy rain during
the night.
I MARCH (SUNDAY).

Rain in the morning ; rest of d1y fine but cloudy

Prayers towards evening.
 ANDllEW SMITH DIARY

2. MAR.CH (MONDAY).

Pterodes, f.: top of head freckled black brown

and buff, yefiow over eyes, a buff yellow stripe below
eyes and chin the same colour ; back mantle, rump
and tail coverts buff with a tint of gilded green ;
edges of feathers with white or pale buff spots ;
feathers towards quills brown bl~ck, back therefore
a mixture of the three colours ; shoulders gilded
green, spotted with white, black near quills, but
little seen ; primary coverts black ; secondaries
towards centres brown mottled with white, tip and
edges pure white ; primary quill feathers brown,
shafts towards quills white, some of the innermost
tipt with white; secondaries black brown, very
faintly tipt with white ; throat, breast and sides of
neck pale rusty brown spotted with white ; belly
white freckled with rusty brown spots most scanty
towards vent ; under tail coverts pale buff white ;
tail feathers black with white bars and broad white
tips, two middle ones greenish brown with imperfect
rusty green bars and the tips of the same colour ;
legs rusty white ; toes horn coloured with a reddish
tint ; claws black ; eyelids livid ; iris dark black
brown ; bill nearly black. Shot at Tsening and other
waters in that direction. Resorts to drink in the
mornings and generally in company with the com-
mon species. Its call is much weaker and a good
deal resembling the P. bicinclm.
Started with the intention of visiting Langeberg
and proceeded down the channel of the Kuruman
River after its junction with the Matklarie.1 During
1 Matlowing River. See map.
 .ANDR.l!:W SMITH DIARY

this day's journey we found three holes dug by the

Caffers in the bed of the river, the two fust small,
the third pretty large and all tolerably deep, the last
about ten feet. The water contained in these holes
had a dirty yellow green tinge and tasted of the
ground. From the last water was drawn up to supply
the oxen and poured into a hole dug in the ground
to which three oxen were allowed to resort at a
time. When approaching the watering place several
Caffers were observed in the act of carrying away
water, and when they observed us they threw away
their utensils and fled with the utmost precipitation.
Upon inquiring of them, some having been over-
taken, the cause of their flight, they stated that since
Sturman had visited them so often and killed so
many of their companions they [were] always in
dread, and also they feared visits of their own chiefs,
they being in the habit of falling upon them and
taking away their carosses or what property they
might possess when they did not repair to the principal
station with dried berries and skins, or did not
attend during the time the corn was in ear to assist
in keeping off the birds. One of them had been
in that direction only a few weeks before and had
entered their houses and carried away whatever he
could find. Sometimes when they take the articles
above mentioned the chief in return will give them a
few inches of tobacco. This year there have been
few berries and their own wants actually urged
them to consume them themselves. It has always
been the custom for the chiefs to exact from the poor
people lying remote from their habitation such ser-
vices. After considerable difficulty we procured an
old man to act as guide to the mountains. He was
 ANDll~W SMITH DIAllY 297
very restless during the night and did not, till next
morning, when I gave him some tobacco and food,
appear to ·get rid of suspicions as to what might be
our intentions.
3 MARCH (TUESDAY).

Started at daylight and left the channel of the

Kuruman in order to cross the sand flats lying between
us and Langeberg. . After advancing about 4 hours
reached a sinall hill composed of black iron stone
and at one extremity of it found sufficient water in
a hole in the rock to supply a drink for the oxen
and water for ourselves. Here we also found several
poor Caffers in the neighbourhood all equally alarmed
as those of last night ; from them we heard a similar
tale as to their fears. In the afternoon we proceeded
to near a vley which we were told contained a
tolerable supply of water. In consequence of the
depth of the sand and the quantity of camel trees 1
and hack doms • we made but slow progress having
to pursue a very winding course. After dark observed
a fire on the top of a ridge which separated us from
the vley. Traces of cameleopards were observed
amongst the trees of the valleys which must have been
from a very late visit of these animals. They do not
require water. Three wildebeasts seen and some
of the common jackal heard at night. The iron stone
hill on the flat is called Linchana,8 which means
know!.
The Caffers who arc living in this direction subsist
principally upon a species of C11c111JJis, perhaps C.
1 Kameeldoom (.A&iuia girojfM).
' Haakdoom (Atoriir t111inms).
• /...mis-,• small hill. This hill is now called Ystcrberg. See map.
 ANDllEW SMITH DIARY

proph1/art1m, which they roast in the ashes and when

ripe it tastes not unlike roasted apples, [and] is very
juicy and well calculated to quench. thirst ; they also
eat the Caffer water melon which sometimes grows
in considerable abundance. Both of these fruits
when not ripe are very bitter. Rained heavily during
the afternoon in the neighbourhood of the moun-
tains. The Langeberg mountains are called Majun. 1
4 MARCH (WEDNESDAY).

Soon after daylight proceeded to the vlcy where

we found abundance of tolerable water in a hollow
having a bed of sandstone of a recent formation.
Some of our Caffers went off in search of the people,
and after some trouble found the kraal with die men
preparing to start and the women all gone. From
them we heard the like accounts as from the others.
Here we found several of the P/1111ialis with blue
head, described page 13 7. 1
Several of the Caffers who came to us at the vley
had bundles of young locusts with them, and whilst
sitting by us were employed in devouring them.
They had previously boiled them and now they only
pulled the legs off and eat the remainder ; some also
removed the head, others not ; they appeared very
tasteless and dry, so that to afford nourishment
sufficient to support existence they must eat a great
quantity. They are passed nearly as eaten. Extremely
liot about ten or eleven o'clock and continued on
till late in the aftemoon. The early part of the evening
is also very warm arising from the radiation of the
1 M11111st11111g, the locative of 111t111b11111 on the mountains.
• Thia ~tlv rcfcn to a apccial no~book; page 1'7 of the NS. bu
no dclcripuon of thi1 bird.
 ANDREW SMITH DIARY

heat received during the day, then the light airs

there may be are cool. Towards the Langebergen
the Baclaru lived in olden times and it was in this
district that they lost all their cattle through Oas
Dryer. The poor Caffers now inhabiting this country
eat the hyaena, jackal [and] lion ; will not eat the
horse because they think it is like eating of their
own fellow men, it being a tame creature.
Kodoes occur about the small hillocks. Copri.r and
other insects which work with the excrement of
animals and man generally approach from the leeward
side and it is not long after a deposit of that kind
takes place till all is removed. When it happens to
be so liquid that it cannot be rolled off pure they
mix it up with sand in order to give it sufficient
consistency. Obtained a viper with a single horn
over each eye yesterday ; very ferocious. The
steenboks of this district appear larger than those
about Cape Town, and have invariably the black
marking on the forehead. A springbok shot two
days ago had short homs curved forwards so :
the ~nimal appeared full gr~wn. . Shot f~ur
specunens of Tokm .....• : bill gteerush
r
yellow, upper mandible towards base with some
clouds of brown, part of lower mandible horn
coloured ; eyes light yellow ; legs and toes black.
Lani11.1 exc11bitor: eyes dark brown; legs, toes, bill
and claws black ; when vexed falls upon its back and
claws like a hawk. Ot11.1 per/a/us : eyes fine yellow;
cere a livid dull gteen with yellowish minute clouds ;
bill light gteenish yellow ; toes a sort of buff yellow ;
claws black. V ane/111.1 cakoptef'll.I : bill brown
i Specific name not aiven.
300 ANDREW SMITH DIARY

black, base of lower and edge of upper towards

base between scarlet and lake, so :
inside of edges of eyelids dull scarlet ;4;.....::.r£.
eyes dark brown ; legs lake, with a
little red mixed with it; toes brown red. P/oc111S
.soci11S : bill livid blue, edge of upper and lower
faint greenish yellow ; legs and toes pale hom
colour clouded with light green and livid blue ;
claws light horn coloured. A great number of this
species form their nest under one roof which is built
upon a thick branch of a camel thom. The roof is
formed of a strong coarse grass, and the nests which
are constructed under it have their opening directed
to the ground and placed vertically alongside of
each other. Each year they appear to build a new
tier which is interwoven below the other, so that
after a number of years it assumes an immense
magnitude. A section of it will exhibit somewhat
the following appearance :

The thatch is put on in successive portions as the

body of the nest deepens. The nests are constructed
of a fine straw whidi is placed vertically around the
entrance into the nest. It lays generally three eggs
of dull white ground with minute numerous brown
dots particularly towards the great end and sides.
 ANDREW SMITH DIARY

Started after midday and about dusk reached a small

vley containing abundance of fine water. Appel 1
early in the afternoon showed signs of sickness,
coughed a good deal, and on his reaching the vley
stood perfectly still with his head hanging, breathing
hurried and expirations very hot, hinder part of body
and limbs cold. These symptoms kept increasing
till towards morning when he g~tvery restless, and
at last after lying for a few seconds got up, staggered
and reeled about for a little, and then fell down
and expired almost immediately. Considerable dis-
charge of a frothy mucus from the nose and during
the last hours of his life breathing very hurried and
sonorous.
~ MARCH (THURSDAY).

Started at daylight and proceeded to the base of

the Langebergen over and through abundance of
trees and bushes. Here we found another large
vley with fine water. These vleys only contain water
after rains. Several Caffers living in the neighbour-
hood; all the women had fled to the hills. Also a
kraal of Bushmen which lay near this place. Got
the Caffer men to come to the wagon. Mter break-
fast ascended the mountain, and from the summit
saw the fiats extending to the south-west, north
and north-west, without hills in these directions.
There are four vleys in this direction ; on the west
of hills no water. There used to be a well on the other
side of one hill and in rainy weather there used to
be water in it ; for the last three years they have
had so little rain that it is quite dry. The cattle when
1 One of the oxen.
 301 ANDREW SMITH DIARY

the Baclaru lived here always drank and ...... 1 by

the wells in the channel of the river. This is 7 days
from the Orange River ; there is a second line of
mountains beyond these and in them the Bushmen
live. The Bushmen often kill their people when they
visit them, and wish [for] hassegays or knives and do
not get them. They generally have their revenge by
killliig those who refused them when they find them
in the fields.
By the well mentioned [on] the other side of one
of the hills Matsabaleli used to live and here it was
where Sturman's party attacked those now lying by
the vleys and killed ten. Sturman's reason for
attacking them is he does not wish them to be situated
upon the road which he must approach by, because
they give information to those behind who have
cattle and thereby enable them to receive them before
he arrives. It was on his return that he killed them.
Early in the morning they knew he was in but they
expected he would return the regular road and were
watching for him upon it. He took a byway and came
upon them quite unexpectedly, and the men with
firearms crept close to the kraal and fired upon
them. William Jochim who was resident near the
Langeberg together with Oass Dryer and Sturman
were engaged in plundering the Batclaru. Sturman
formerly lived with Africaner and then was a goat-
herd of Cornelius Kok. Soon after he left the latter
he commenced plundering the natives. In conse-
quence of having heard so many shots they fled
from us, it appearing to them to be a commando
and that it must be Sturman ; from its having been
1 Word udcdphcrablc.
 ANDREW SMITH DIARY

a. rainy season they expect him. On the last com-

mando of Sturman's ten men were on horseback
and a great party on foot consisting of Bushmen
and Corannas. The Bushmen had arrows, the Co-
rannas partly arrows, partly guns. [On] the three first
commandoes he got cattle, the 4[th] none, the last only
a few goats. They are not ordered to reside here by
their chief, but prefer it to a life of servitude without
any property at the kraals. They sometimes follow
the steenbok for days together till they at last tire
it out and then they kill it. The descendants of the
earlier chiefs become in time the servants of the
reigning families.
Retd. t way to fley and reached ...... 1
6 MARCH (FRIDAY).

Started at daylight and reached the vley first

approached. New species of Pterotlu: male, eyelids
and space round eye yellow ; female, livid bluish ;
eyes dark brown ; bill black ; toes above pale horn
colour, with a pinky or reddish tint ; toes of female
greenish yellow tinge or horn colour. This species
resorts to waters in the morning with the common
species; make a noise like the bidnctu.r.
Soon after our arrival at the vley a number of
men, women and children arrived to carry off water
to their kraals for the day's consumption. The
vessels were ostrich eggs. Some few had bags of
skin with the hairy side inwards and formed like the
kanapsacs 1 of the colonists. The eggs, when full,
they pack in a net or springbok skin and by two
1 No name given.
I Knapsacb.
w
 ANDREW SMITH DIA.llT

rims,1 one at each end, they fastened them over

the shoulders like a soldier's napsack. Some carried
fourteen or fifteen eggs. The side of the net or skin
which lay next the shoulders was lined with dry
grass to keep off any portion of water that might
escape between the vley and the house. The sacks
were carried in the same way. The water was poured
into these by the upper shell of a tortoise. The net
was formed of the fiark of the Mimosa.
The skin of the sociable weaver bird is very loose
on the body 'and therefore easily skinned ; it eats
insects. They breed twice at least in a year [and]
have e~gs at present. There is generally each alternate
· nest without eggs, probably for the visit of the males
during the night.
The Caffers all use umbrellas made with ostrich
feathers. They must put great value upon the ostrich
eggs because when one gets cracked they take the
greatest trouble to render it watertight, which they
do with a sort of bulb burnt in the fire and then
wrought tough between the fingers.
Vane/Im cakoptmu was perched on a tree when
it was shot. The koran, P/oc111.1 ..••.. 1 and larks
were also building.
Left vley about 4 p.m. and travelled about half
to the puts 8 in the Kuruman. Towards evening
heavy thunder and rain.
This day three specimens of Corvidae procured,
all females ; were five to~ether, made a chattering
noise. Also one of the white birds with black wings
1 Riems.
1
Specific name and wotd following are Wldecipbcuble,
• WcU,
 ANDREW SMITH DIAllT

figured by Sir Wm. Jardine 1 from Cape. Latter,

eyes [?] as in drawing, eats caterpillars, worms, etc. ;
COf1Jitlal, insects.

7 MARCH (SATUllDA.Y).

After travelling three hours this morning reached

the puts ; scarcely any water. About 11 started and
reached Tsening 1 with a fresh span of oxen which
had been sent to meet us this moming. Those which
had been with the wagon much tired by the sands.
Stated my determination to attempt the Kalahary.

8 MARCH (SUNDAY).

The guide came and stated that he had just leaint

that Mahura was about to attack his tribe and that
he must go back ; also that his father had told him
that if we intended to go into the Kalahary he must
not go. The latter was what frightened him, the
other was a mere story got up to introduce the
subject of his intention. Prayers towards evening.
9 MARCH (MONDAY).

Saw several men who had lately left Qucis a accord-

ing to their account from want of water. Queis lies
upon the Takoon River. Got a new guide. Lacha-
canie' was once a place where there was water on
the other side of Chue. These men stated that there
had been no rains in the Kalaharey for several years,
1 Sir William Jardine (1800-1874), a distinguished Scottish natunlist.
• At the junction of the Kununan and Matlaring Riven. Sec map.
• See footnote 6 on p. aB+
• Lohohane Hill, d<>1e to Maubel Hill (•· gftw).
 ANDREW SMITH DIARY

and that all the waters were driecl up from Machua 1

or Marrebing 1 to Mobil • two days on foot. Mobil
was the water where Mr. Le Mermu' turned back.
They say that there is a small but high hill close to
where the water used to rise. Reached Kooroo 6
about i past seven. The water here is in wells and
that but in small quantity. Several Caffers with cattle
jn the neighbourhood. A party of Barolongs who
had been residing here with cattle moved off towards
Tsening, there not being sufficient water ; the
vleys all dry where [a] party of them used to drink.

IO MARCH (nraSDAY).

This morning a little water had collected in the

wells but scarcely sufficient to supply the wants of
our oxen. Endeavoured to enlarge the opening
through which the water issued, but the quantity
did not appear to increase. Last night the therm.
fell to 55 ; during yesterday it stood at 98 in the
shade. At 12. to-day several of our young oxen would
not descend to the water.
At 2 p.m. started for Morrebing 6 and travelled
ten hours ; halted one hour to rest the oxen, the road
being so very sandy that they appeared after travelling
four hours almost exhausted. Before the last halt
1 Mashowing River.
2 Madebing, at the junction of the Mashowing and Kgokgole Riven.
• Maubel Hill, 41 miles N.W. of Madebing.
' Rev. Prosper Lemue.
• Kuru, or the Wells, a few miles north of Dikatlong, on the Kuruman
River. There is a large cluster of wells at this spot.
• At the junction of the Mashowing and Kgokgole Rivers. The Madebing
Native Reserve is close to the spot. See map.
 ANDREW SMITH DIARY

one ox fell, perfectly exhausted, in the yoke ; several

others were nearly in the same predicament. Came
to a halt at 2 midnight, and started again at i past
five. During the journey to the water several oxen
gave up and required to be changed ; want of water
perhaps even more than the labour was the cause.
On the sides of the road observed a number of small
ditches dug to catch locusts, and near them old
fireplaces where they had been cooked and eaten
by Caffers journeying from Morrebing to Tsening.
At the former we found a fine supply of good water,
and it was pleasing to see how the oxen enjoyed a
draught of it ; scarcely were they unyoked till they
fled towards it even though they could not see it
from the place the wagons halted. Dogs, men and
horses were equally anxious to drink ; indeed it
would have been difficult to say which was most
alert in the pursuit of water.

I I MAR.CH (WEDNESDAY).

A kraal consisting of poor Caffers live a little

way up the river from the water pool ; amongst
them all have only one goat. No Bushmen in this
country nor never have been. [They] make holes
for game near water-places ; two sorts, one narrow
and oblong, one round. The latter they cover with
grass and soil; the oblong they leave partly open
and place a piece of wood pointed at the extremity
in the bottom and those are covered also. The open
ones force the game over the others to avoid them.
When game [is j abundant some fall in almost daily,
quaggas, springbok, wildebeast, etc. The young
locusts cause pains in the belly.
308 ANDREW SMI'l'H DI.ARY

Had conversation with a chief of the Baclaru

living here. He acknowledges all the benefits of
Kuruman, and says that those that lie remote from
the town are regarded as dogs. Has cows and pack
oxen at Kuruman ; lets them remain there for fear
that they might be stolen if here. Says he has heard
that the missionaries have a church at the Kuruman
but does not know what takes place there ; no
person has ever told him. He means to go there,
then he will go to church as he must also hear and
understand what the people there understand. Does
not know Sunday ; has heard that Sunday is not a
day for work. Several years past men said they would
make rain and it never came ; now this year they
were afraid to continue their promises, therefore no
one pretended they would make it, nevertheless it
has come abundantly.
The b11/ab11/ 1 hisses strongly and from the descrip·
tion given of it, it is much like the puff-adder. They
take out the fat to soften their karosses ; they skin
this snake and soften it by rubbing, then place it
round any part that is diseased, sometimes the
breast, stomach, etc. One of them bit a dog yesterday
and it died immediately. It often enters the huts of
the natives and gets under their karosses. It is very
lazy, hence the name which implies its laziness. [It]
bites men and causes death in a very short time.
An old man about ss years of age states that
when he was about I 6 years of age both the Kuruman
and Maclare Rivers had abundance of water ; when
low, to the knee, when full, very deep so that people

i Zulu lw.IN, the pu6..ddtr .

 ANDREW SMITH DIARY

could not pass them. Used in hunting the buffalo

to drive him to the river and he invariably stuck
fast in the mud ; since about that time the river
has not fl.owed. In those days had abundance of
rain. The Machua also was a running river in thos{
times and when they all met they ran off in a large
stream to the Orange River by Africaner's place.
Water has been getting more scarce every year.
They eat the water tortoise.
After having travelled on Tuesday _night till z..
we halted till daylight and then proceeded to Merebin.
The number of hours from Kooro to Merebin, Ijt·
12. MARCH (THURSDAY).

At j o'clock p.m. started from Merebin and

travelled Gt hours, then halted for the night. Road
hard for some distance from the water, then over
heavy sand. Several herds of springboks and quaggas
seen toward dusk. Two snakes caught during the
night, one a puff-adder, which is the b11/abtll of the
Caffers; it appears a variety of the Cape species.
The colour is brown grey instead of yellow, and the
black marks are not so deep. It has no black markings
on the belly. Has somewhat the appearance of being
about to change its skin ; to this may be owing the
colour, though the Caffers say it is always of the same
tints. Penis double and each again towards front
subdivided into two, both thickly set with white
prickles, large towards base, small towards extremity.
The other was the snake with white eyebrows and
brown above, vide drawing. 1
i I cannot traec this dnwiog.
310 ANDREW SMITH DIARY

I 3 MARCH (FRIDAY).

Started at daylight and reached Chuc after travelling

about 6 hours ; Road over a heavy sand. But little
water in vley. A number of Caffers living in the
district around the vley, partly Baclaru, partly Bara-
long and partly Bakalaharie; the latter have left
Mobil in consequence of the water having disappear-
ed. The natives say that the same thing is taking
place in every direction and that the water melons,
etc., are also getting scarce.

14 MARCH (SATURDAY).

During last night some quaggas came to drink

at the water near which we were outspanned. Early
this morning a fine male wildebeast was shot and
last evening a young one.
Several Caffers from the neighbouring kraals
visited us to-day and were all extremely anxious
for tobacco, also that we should kill some game for
them. One brought a species of guanna which he
caught under some rocks and requested beads for
it. States that there is another species in this country
which is smaller than this and also lives amongst
rocks. Most of the people residing here appear
half-starved and doubtless they are so. Two messen-
gers from the Baralong chief ~assed this two days
ago to call in the people to assist in keeping off the
birds from the corn.
Towards evening several quaggas approached
the water but turned off when they discovered our
 .ANDREW SMITH DI.ARY

wagons. Baboons inhabit the rocks near which we

are lying ; young ones were heard screaming as if
hurt by the old ones during the whole of the night.
Tennant was not required on watch last night
though warned for it and he objected to going on
to-night.
Fako biarmiCllS attends regularly by the water
and is often seen pouncing upon the Pter«lt.t which
come to drink. The rhinoceros has entirely left this
district. The cameleopard; still here though not very
abundant, seldom resorts to the water to drink during
the season in which the trees are green.
Had some conversation with several persons who
had been on a commando to the Damaras. They all
agree in stating that the Matclama 1 are of a much
darker complexion than the Caffers, almost quite
black and that they speak a quite different language.
They are people who keep entirely to themselves
and are very ferocious when attacked or plundered of
their cattle. They describe their hassegays as already
mentioned ; each had one, five karies and two
wooden arrows, one on each hip. Their bow is about
6 feet long. They rush upon their enemies, strike
with the karies, stab with the hassegay or cut the
throat. No shields. Wear sheepskins round the middle
somewhat like the Basutu. From Mobil to [the]
vley where Malala resided for a time, 9 days ; from
thence to Damaras, 4 days. Do not cultivate com ;
live entirely on flesh and milk ; hair soft and anointed
with fat.

1 Damara, or Herero.
 ANDREW SMITH DIARY

IS MARCH (SUNDAY).

Prayers towards evening. Several Caffcrs visited

our encampment during the day.

I 6 MARCH {MONDAY).

The kuikenduif eats young locusts. The Caffers

roast the locust in a small ditch which they make
in the sand, when it is filled with them they cover
them with sand and kindle a fire over it. When the
wood is burnt and enough of ashes have been formed
they mix them, ashes and hot sand together, till they
are thoroughly roasted, then divide them, place
them in bags and carry them off. Dakka 1 has from
time immemorial been known to the Caffers; [they]
are very partial to smoaking it. Those that can pro-
cure both tobacco and dakka snuff the former and
smoak the latter. They smoak it through water.
An eland's horn is filled with water; a hole is made
on one side and into it a reed is fastened which is
connected with the Jipe containing the dakka.
When ready to be us they insert the lips into the
large extremity of the horn and ins~ire ; the smoak
rises into the mouth which is previously filled with
water from a separate vessel. The water prevents the
smoak from proving too irritating. In the absence
of a pipe they smoak it through wet ground with
water in the mouth. In making the latter they wet
clay or sand, [and] form it into a convex ridge.
From one extremity they introduce a cylindrical
piece of wood the length of the ridge, then form a
1 1-lil 1,,_.,
 ANDREW SMITH DIARY

vertical cup which communicates near one extremity

and a small vertical opening towards the other.
Into the cup they introduce the dakka and place
some live coals upon it. As soon as it begins to bum
they place the mouth in contact with the small opening
and draw the breath in so as to get the smoak along
the tube. The Barolongs are partial to smoaking
dakka. Mateebie and some of the Batclapin chiefs
smoaked much of it and got sick therefrom ; they
then told their people they must not smoak it. Since
that little has been used.

No. 101 D. Head more or less green, about the

tympana usually bluish green but changes colour ;
two transverse yellow white stripes across top of
head and a third indistinct across hindhead ; round
eyes light vermillion red and yellow ; chin blue
green with longitudinal waved whitish lines ; belly
white, or white with undulating pale reddish longi-
tudinal lines ; body red brown, variously clouded
with blackish, and along the centre of back a whitish
or ash white band broadest at hindhead where it
commences and where it is circular in front; along
the middle of it a line of short spines curving back-
wards, most distinct on neck ; on sides two or three
curving rows of elevated spinous points formed by
the points of some larger scales ; 1 o or II anal
pores ; tail reddish white or yellowish white beneath,
back and sides same colour or a little more brownish
with imperfect blackish rings ; legs red brown with
transverse reddish white bars ; eyes dark brown.
A male : darkest the colours after changing their
skin in the month of March ; tail long and tapering ;
c:hanie colour to a considerable extent.
314 ANDREW SMITH DIARY

The rock iguana : liver light sandy red ; three

lobe gall bladder, subpyriform ; gall duct entering
intestines about an inch from pylorus ; intestines
about .....•1 inches long; first nine, thick and flabby;
inner coat very villous ; last thin, and from inner
coat slightly villous ; stomach : outer coat semi-
cartilaginous, cellular, and middle coat fine, inner
glandular, like so ; ~ eats insects. Larva
of Papil.B'lio, ketc., vide - · drawing of internal
parts. 00 . r-·-
During the early part of the day a very hot wind
blew from the S.S.E., and whenever the wind blows
from that quarter the Caffers state that it is always
suffocating and warm. From the west the wind is
always cool. [They] say that in the Kalaharie the
heat is extreme and that even during the nights it
is so great as scarcely to be home, the bush being
so close that no wind gets through it. Thermometer
averaged during the days we have been here in the
shade 90 and 6o during the night.

17 MARCH (TUESDAY).

Algyra No. 111 : head pale yellowish brown with

a faint greenish tint ; back and upper part of sides
brownish red with two interrupted lines of a greyish
tint along centre of back and one of the same colour
along each side of back, (perhaps the centre line is
only single but slightly divided by some brown red
spots which are placed at [a] distance from each other
along its middle lateral lines) spotted with dull white;
some indistinct white spots also on brown red of
i Number not decipherable.
 .ANDREW SMITH DIARY

sides, under the brown red of sides a red dull ver-

million Jine and above its upper edge a line of
roundish white spots ; fore legs grey brown mottled
with white faintly towards toes in particular, toes
light greenish brown ; beneath red lines mottled
with minute blackish dots ; belly .....•1 with a
faint reddish tinge ; under tail same ; hinder lip
greenish with a reddish tinge ; under and hinder
surfaces of both legs as belly ; tail above grey with
some white spots along side towards base and two
rows of brown reddish with green tinge and dotted
with black near root ; towards tip of tail brown ;
scales of top of head with raised edges ; edges of
upper lips variegated with black; scales of back
carinated and pointed and imbricate ; of belly smooth
and imbricated ; tail carinated in whorls ; tail long
and tapering ; pupil with a reddish yellow ring,
rest of iris brown. Female, nearly the same; the
female in drawing• is apparently a variety. Along
centre of back a line of square brown spots generally
edged on each side with a dull white spot, on each
side of that a row of dark brown spots in a clear
reddish brown band, and outside of that a row of
dull white spots, outside of them again an indistinct
blackish line ; rest of back and sides of body greyish
with brown tints ; along underpart of sides towards
head a continual whitish line which on body gets
discontinued and forms spots ; beneath that dull
reddish ; on sides of neck another white line as far
as fore legs ; belly pale rosy white tint, brown grey
above with some white spots on sides and two rows
of blackish ones on back near root ; upper lips on
s Word undecipherable.
1 J cannot tr.lee thl1 drawhlg.
 ANDREW SMITH DIARY

sides a little mottled with brown ; femoral pores

distinct both in males and females ; bites with
great violence for its size ; edges of scales on top
of head also raised ; fore legs curd brown ; hinder legs
grey with a reddish tint showing through it and every-
where indistinctly spotted with dull white. Hif'lllio
(Chuc) : dark olive green with 7 light grass green
lines, one along middle of back, two on sides narrower,
and one on each side below them more inclined to
yellow and broader, along lines small elevated dots ;
broad anus ; head small. Attaches itself to the limbs
of men who happen to walk in the water. Much
feared by the natives [who] say it penetrates the
skin and works itself entirely into the flesh. If pulled
when in that occupation it breaks and leaves the
head in, which festers.
About 4 p.m. started for Takoon ; travelled three
hours and then halted to rest the oxen, the road from
it being over a deep sand, being very fatiguing.

I 8 MARCH (WEDNESDAY).

Started at l past ten last night and travelled till

7 a.m. of the 18. Road still the same ; oxen were
very much fatigued when we halted. At 4 p.m. moved
on again in order to reach the water with as little
delay as possible, the oxen evidently suffering greatly
from thfrst. The thermometer during the early
and middle part of the day in the shade 97. At sunset
halted t1ll i past eleven and then proceeded along the
channel of the Mashua. Both oxen and people suf-
fering dreadfully from the want of water ; many
of the latter walked off several miles in search of it
but without success. About ' a.m. of the 19 dis-
 ANDREW SMITH DIARY

covci:ed a. large pools in the bed of the river enough

for all ; here we halted. The oxen when unyoked
rushed to the pools with such violence that it was
found quite impossible to keep them from traversing
every part of them, though ten or twdve persons were
labouring to keep one portion undisturbed for the
use of the people. Much difficulty was experienced
in getting them away after they had had moderate
draughts, and the moment I judged it safe to permit
them to have a second drink the men whicli were
between them and the water from which they would
not depart were called off and again with violence
they rushed to the pools. On this occasion I permitted
them to satisfy themselves and they left of their
own accord. During the day nothing but spleen and
ill-humour was evinced by most of the members of
the party almost all declaring that if they were in
the Colony again they would never leave it. As soon
as they got a full supply of water laughing was heard
in every quarter and their wonted spirits appeared
to have returned.

19 MARCH (THURSDAY).

Yesterday discovered a nest of the Eslri/da

granalina in a waght - en - beetjie bosch, 1 vide
drawing. 1 It is externally formed of the tops of
the grass which abound in the neighbourhood
coarsdy put together and covered over with the
entrance on one side [and] lined inside with feathers.
It contained two young ones. Alongside of the stem
of the same bush was the nest of a guinea fowl
• Wag 'n bictjJc bot.
' 1 cannot trace tlµt clnwing,
 ANDREW SMITH DIARY

containing 11 hatched eggs ; straw was placed in

a hollow in the ground and upon that the eggs were
Jying. Cardue/is SfJlltZlllatus nest also found on a bush
containing two young ones ; also covered over
like [that of] the Estrilda and composed of the same
materials. Geko, No. I 10, female : colour above
light brownish red finely variegated on head by minute
dark black brown specks or clouds and by reddish
white ones on back by larger clouds of same, the
reddish white often spangled with dark spots and
sometimes edged with the same dark colour ; tail
light yellowish red imperfectly banded with dark
brown, the latter deepest and most abundant on sides
nearly forming a continuous longitudinal line ; legs
mottled dull brownish and pale reddish yellow or
reddish white ; sides of lower jaw pale reddish
white with indistinct vertical darky purple stripes ;
eyes greenish metallic with a fine yellow circle round
pupil ; pupil vertical oval ; cheeks reddish white
clouded with dusky about 4 inches long beneath dull
white paint colour ; two minute but distinct white
warts on each side of base of tail just behind anus ;
toes of hinder feet distitlctly fringed with a row of
spinous points curved towards nails on five toes ;
also, but much less distinct, under toes a row of
transverse single plates with minute scales towards
edges ; anal pores distinct. The Algyra eats locusts,
bites other lizards with great ferocity, fand] is in its
turn eaten by snakes ; one taken out of the stomach
of a ]aclllm yesterday morning. Passed amongst a
clump of bushes perfectly covered with locusts
same as found in the district of Philipolis. Some
hours after sunrise they began to wing their course
to the eastward. Wind very strong to-day from the
 ANDREW SMITH DIARY

south of west. Two of the party suffering from

colds caught some days ago.
Started about three p.m., and reached a vley in
which the water of last year still stands, about six
o'clock. Here Baralongs are lying with their cattle
this year. Hitherto it has been one of Mahura's
outposts but from his having moved this year to
the south-east of Takoon the posts were established
in that direction. The Caffers state that the Mashaua
has been this year twice :flooded, once very full,
but in two days it was quite dry. On that occasion
it :flowed to Merrebin ; on the other occasion it did
not reach that place. Heard that Maclaniani had
returned from Masalacattie with an answer to our
message and accompanied by one of Masalacattie's
people, also that two wagons with soldiers had
arrived at Takoon.
20 MAB.CH (FRIDAY).

Started at 2 o'clock a.m.; at that time very cold.

Grass now begins to get more abundant and green.
Mr. B[urrow] suffering from a slight dysenteric
affection. Thermometer at 7 o'clock a.m. in the shade
55. About 6 a.m. the wind blew strong from the
south-east and very cold ; continued till about noon
but then moderately warm. Got a specimen of the
common black Coluber : faint ridges on scales of
back a little behind head same as in the Colony.
Appeared very anxious to procure a shade from the
sun ; would not rest an instant when at liberty
exposed to the sun. Agama, No. IOI, female : belly
dead white much variegated as well as chin and throat
with waved pale black bands uniting in a sort of
x
32.0 ANDREW SMITH DIARY

net wo.rk ; has no anal po.res ; male has. G1h

No. 110 D. is found widely distributed. On the
approach of night it begins to call out ; during the
day [it] remains quiet in holes in the sand. Found
along the southem banks of the Modder River. Vcry
common in the sandy districts between Kuruman and
Chuc ; not so numerous as on the Modder River.
Difficult to procure. Young ones have the tail
ringed with black ; most of the Gekos seem marked
in this way whilst young, though they disappear
when older. At 3 p.m. started and travelled till
dark. Country began to assume a more interesting
appearance, being slightly undulating and studdcCl
with camel thorns in pleasing groups. Wind from
the eastward and very cold, towards dusk so much
so as to make all fteg 1 the £.res.
Chanane 1 was one of the chiefs of the Mantatces
which attacked Takoon ; all of them had the Basutoo
dress and small shields.
U MAJ.CH (SATUl\DAY).

In consequence of there being no water between

this and Motito we remained till midday and the oxen
having drunk started and travelled to the latter
where we arrived about 7 p.m. Encountered a most
hcartf welcome from Mr. and Mrs. Lemu. Grass
very fine in every direction, and the grouping of the
camel thom and the other bushes .rather picturesque.
Passed several nests of the PlottllJ sotillJ upo.n
the camel thoms.
1 A Scott word meaning " kindle.''
• Tawane. He wu, however, a Rolong chief', Theal., G. M., HiJl#r) •/
,11_,,,.
Sllllh Aft*- (18'4-18,4), London, 1188 1 Vol. iii, pp.
 ANDREW SMITH DIAllT 311

21 llAllCH (SUNDAY)

At i past s a.m., 1 p.m. and i past seven p.m.,

Mr. Lemu performed divine service to a congre-
gation of Caffers. The attendance was comparatively
small in consequence of most of the inhabitants
being of necessity absent in watching their crops.
Not yet having a church built the service is per-
formed out of doors on one side or other of the dwel-
ling house according to the position of the sun;
in the evening with the light of a candle. Several
well dressed Ca.ffers both men and women attended,
also a considerable number of children were present
on all the occasions.

2.3 M..AllCH (MONDAT). 1

A Baharootzie woman who fled lately from Masala-

katzie being asked how she was able to get away
without being retaken stated that during the day she
slept in the bush and travelled in the night along the
road leading to the Kuruman, knowing that Masala-
katzie regarded that road as sacred and would not
cause her to be pursued in that direction.
All the Ca.ffers here are much alarmed in conse-
quence of our arrival and several absented themselves
from church on account of my being there. They
stated when spoken to by Mr. Lemu that they were
afraid of the captain of the soldiers and asked if I
was not a person calculated to excite their fears.

1 The date as March (Monday) hllll been inaerted in the middle of the
tut at thia pomt.
311 ANDREW SMITH :DIAllY

Mohw:a has a very difficult task in governing the

people of his district ; they are composed of the
remnants of so many different tribes all having separ-
ate interests and all being eaten up with fear. H
he reproves one of the people of another tribe they
instantly state that he intends making a com-
mando against them ; the reJ?ort gets rapid circu-
lation, all are in consternation and nothing but
death and destruction are expected for a time. This
has several times happened and at present the Baclaroo
are under apprehensions of that Kind, though when
I spoke to him on the subject he appeared perfectly
surprised and declared that such an idea had never
entered his mind. He said he had s:poken to them and
reproved them for leaving him without first stating
to them his intentions, but never once hinted any
intention of further interfering with them. Says that
the poor Baharootzies and others of the ruined tribes
are in great numbers towards the Molopo, and that
they are constantly carrying off cattle from Masala-
katzie, and that he fears their depredations will
bring misfortune upon this part of the country.
The new koran with a pale rufous crest has reddish
yellow eyes, dull blue white legs and toes, upper
mandible dark horn colow:ed, lower livid blue.
Nevertheless I have so often given it to be under-
stood that smoaking could not be tolerated in or
close to the wagons, I observed Mr. K.ift smoaking
whilst seated upon his wagon chest. I have for a
long time been tormented by the indifference of this
member of the expedition ; he has in every thing
disregarded my instructions and I feel at last bound
in a duty to the Association to endeavour to come to
 ANDRBW SMITH DIARY

an understanding with him as to his views and ideas.

He as far as I can judge never exerts himself in the
slightest degree to perform the duties entrusted to
him. I have never known him take trouble to ascer-
tain if a native had any article for sale and even the
various trifling duties that I have required of him he
has never as far as I know even attempted to perform.
He appears to avoid any communication with me
and if I require him to purchase any articles he never
states when he has" procured them or not. Once
whilst proceeding on the road I sent a young ox to
him which was offered to me for sale, ~d stated
that I wished him to purchase it. He talked with
the man [and] showed him the articles he had for
exchange which necessarily caused the wagons to
be halted. The man declined taking them, the ox
was left standing, and upon inquiring why the wagons
had remained stationary for nearly ten minutes after
the man had declined selling his ox in consequence
of my not knowing what was the result, I only learnt
by making inquiries that the bargain had not been
concluded and that Mr. Kift had been for a con-
siderable time in his wagon. This took place on the
11 Jany. ult. In consequence of the indisposition of
Mr. Burrow who follows Mr. K.ift in the list I in-
formed Mr. Ford that I should require him to be
present tomorrow morning when it was my intention
to have some conversation with Mr. K.ift on the
subject of his want of %cal in the discharge of his
duties. I have reason to believe that Mr. K.ift has
even advised at least one of the members of the
party to smoak close to one of the wagons and when
1t was observed by Mr. B[urrow] that it was contrary
to order he, Kift, remarked " What is the harm.?"
 ANDR.EW SMITH DIAR.Y

24 MA..CH (TUESDAY).

Several chiefs of the different tribes arrived to-day

and demanded the news. Mr. Lemu was present in
one of the cattle kraals of the Batclapins when some
women entered the kraal and one had shoes on.
A man immediately addressed her and called to her
recollection that she must not enter with shoes upon
her feet. Spoke seriously to-day to Mr. Kift and all
was settled ; he declared he had no intention of
acting improperly. This was in presence of Mr.
Ford.

1 j MAR.CH (wm>NESDAY) •

.Alt.er making the necessary arrangements in regard

to the two wagons which were to remain at Motito,
I started with the other two and the cart for Kuruman
at 8 o'clock a.m. On reaching a small spring called
Dorn Fonteyn 1 we halted to allow the oxen to drink
and feed. I found that the distance between Chue and
Motito by the road we travelled was 77 miles.
Abundance of fine grass between Motito and Dom
Fonteyn. Mr. Lemu most kindly sent us a span of
oxen to convey one of the wagons to Kuruman in
order to admit of ours resting at Motito. Mrs. Lcmu
also insisted upon my taking a quantity of bread
which she had prepared for me, and which was more
than sufficient to serve us to the Kuruman. This is
another instance of the great kindness and considera-
tion which we have everywhere experienced at the
hands of the amiable people employed in teaching
 ANDREW SMITH DIARY 31 s
the gospel to the natives of the countries through
which we have passed.
At 1 p.m. started and proceeded to the Macklareen1
and from thence an hour farther ; there halted.
Much thunder and lightening to the west ; a few drops
of rain.
16 MAR.CH (THURSDAY).

At a.m. started and reached Kuruman about

1
8 a.m. After breakfasting with Mr. Moffat sent for
the messengers which went to Masalakatzie and the
following is their statement.
They left Kuruman and proceeded to Motito and ·
there got an additional message for Masalakatzie
from Mohura which amounted to little or nothing.
They came in communication with the first Matabeli
at Mosega. 1 They were instantly recognised and a
chief man came up and talked with them. He demanded
their business and upon being informed that wagons
had arrived at Kuruman but were not inclined to
proceed to Masai. in consequence of the fate of Bain
being known, till Mas. feelings were known. He, the
chief, said that was good. They remained the.re for
the day and next day the chief proceeded with them
to Masalacatzie.
[No conversation took place relative to Bain's mis-
fortunes. Some conversation took place amongst the
people and them on the subject whilst resting at
the kraal, and the Matabeli said the wagons had been
seized because the people of the wagons had taken
i Matlowing River.
1 Near Zeodclin1'1 Poet, Tnnavaal. Sec map.
32.6 ANDREW SMITH DIARY

cattle. No questions were asked them about the

expedition, it being a law that they must not enquire
concerning news which is for Masalakatzic.]1
Masalakatzie was living behind the Kurrccbani
mountains 1 and as the cattle were entering the kraal,
on the second day after they left Mosegha they reached
the kraal where Mas. was living. From Mosegha
a man was dispatched on their arrival to inform
Mas. of the news. When they reached the kraal Mas.
was seated upon a small hill about 100 yards from
the kraal. They left their guns and with the chief
proceeded to him ; some other man was with him.
When they apfiroached him he stood up and said
"Hoe morgen. ' 8 The first word he said is "You
are a liar ; where is Mr. Moffat ? You come always
to say Mr. Moffat will come and he docs not come ;
therefore you are a liar." He then asked him where
he came from. He had been so long absent but he
was glad that he now saw him. He was then informed
that it was his meaning to have accompanied Mr.
Moffat when ~ were to cut wood,' but hearing
that Jan Bloom s commando was going in Mr.
Moffat and all turned back. M. said that was no
reason why Mr. M. should turn back ; he, M., knows
from what direction Jan Bloom came and that was
not sufficient to make Mr. M. turn back. He contd.
Mr. Moffat has no love for him ; he has love for
1 These square brackets are Smith's.
1 The range to the north of Zeerust. Kurichani itself was near to what
is now Enzelberg ; it was at one time tbe chief town of tbe HutUthse.
See Campbell, J., Tr1J111is;,, Soldh .Afrko (Second Joumey). London, 18u,
VoL 1, Ch. :n.
1 It does not follow that MziliWi spoke Dutch ; it ia more likely that tbit
la what tbe interpreter uld to Smith.
• For tbe raf'tCn of' tbe Kuruman church. See Moffat, J. S., Thi Liflll 1/
RdHrl ... M,,,, Mo/f•I, London, 188,, pp. 180-181.
 ANDREW SMITH DIARY

Mr. M. He has only once seen him and has love

for him. He said he troubles nobody ; people trouble
him yearly. Jan Bloom is every year there to take cattle.
He never follows him; all he docs [is] to endeavour
to retake his cattle. He cannot continue still and sec
his cattle taken from him. He said he, Maclaniani,1
was again come to deceive him; let him, M., sec
Mr. M. again. He had love for Mr. M. ; he must
come in and I must also come in to let him sec me.
He knew that white people would take nobody's
goods. Maclaniani said tliat was the truth. M. then
observed that he wished to move towards Kuruman
so that Mr. M. might assist him; he cannot stand
out so against the attacks of Jan Bloom. Maclaniani
answered there is not water enough towards Kuruman
for so many cattle as he had. He said then he would
come and live here. Maclaniani gave the same answer
as [at] :first. He then repeated the same and said he
would come and see Mr. Moffat but he was afraid
the people would think it a commando as he could
not come alone and on that account he could not
visit Mr. M. M. then said " You can remain here
a day or two and then go quickly back to Kuruman.
I am very anxious to see Mr. M. and the wagons of
the expedition can also come in." M. observe<l again
that he was deceiving him. He had been twice there
before to tell him that Mr. M. was about to visit
him and Mr. M. had never done so ; if Mr. M.
could not visit him he, Maclaniani, must always
visit him and tell him the news. He, M., said he knew
well from what side the commandoes came; he always
sent men to the Kuruman and one had been to
Graham's Town; all returned to him therefore he
1 Matlhanyaoc.
 ANDREW SMITH DIARY

knew he had friends in that direction. He asked how

many persons were with the expedition. He, Maclanie,
told him. He said that was many but nevertheless
that was nothing; they did not come to injure him,
they must come in. He said he had heard that there
were white men with Dingan and he is anxious that
white men shall also live with him.
He acknowledged that he had taken Bain's wagons,
but he said he was with men who took his cattle and
therefore he was equally guilty. He said his people
who surrounded the wagons intended to ascertain
whose wagons they were, but Bain's party fired
too soon upon them. The wagons are at another kraal
on this side of Masalakatzie and the loads yet in them.
He sent the man who was dispatched with a message
to the Kuruman to show the wagons to Maclaniani.
The wagons are in charge of the chief who took them
to M.; 6 wagons are there, 3 of the Bastards. The
son of Peter David and the other two youths are
with the wagons, the daughter 1 is at Masalakatzie's
kraal ; the other women tty to teach her the Caffer
language. Masalakatzie sits with her and appears
very friendly. Maclaniani says he appears afraid in
consequence of his having taken the wagons from
Bain, nevertheless he was there ; he could still sec
that he was afraid Mr. M. must go there. He is
frightened in consequence [of] having heard that the
cannon which the white people had were terrible
instruments for destroying people, and that the
Matabeli who were with Gibson 1 had told him that
1 Trttey. Her story may be rcsd in Harris, W. C., Wi/J Spor11 of Solllhll"fl
Afri,a, London, 1839, p. l4J·
• A trader who had visited Mzilikazi.. He befriended Bain after the episode
of the waggons. See Steedman, A., Wtmtlmtrgs Q1ll/ Allwnt11r11 ;,, Solllhll"ll
A,friu, London, 1lu, Vol. ii, pp. a.µ.14,.
 ANDREW SMITH DIARY

the white people were more numerous than the

Matabeli. The man together with the chief and the
messenger spoke together on the subject. The
Matabeli seem to think that a commando will attack
them in consequence of Bain's wagons. His in-
tention was to have sent a chief but the one who had
been first to Kuruman, and who according to their
law must always afterwards go, was sick and therefore
he ordered the man who was with Gibson to go.
M. said that the house which Mr. Lemu and Mr.
Rolland built at Mosega they must go and rebuild
and live with him. 1
Mr. Moffat questioned the Litabeli as to what
took place in regard to Milne 1 when he was last with
Masalacattie. He said he was present when Masala-
catzic was one day with Milne, and when Mas. went
off from him he heard M. say to some of his chief
men did they not think Milne was sick. He did not
speak and his cheeks and eyes looked curious. Some-
tune afterwards M. said he would go again and sec
Milne. He went and still thought him sick. He re-
turned and saw he was very sad having lost his
daughter's child and his friend was also sick. Milne
in the meantime sent for some beer from one division
of the town and not liking it he sent to another. The
man that brought it would not drink of it, which the
Litabeli states arose from his having lost his mother
the night before and according to their laws they
could not at such times drink beer. He, the informant,
states that he drank of the same beer and that that
i The French missionaries had originally settled at Moscga, near Zccruat,
among the Huruthsc. When that tribe was driven off by Mzilikazi they left.
Prot~ ~muc afterwards became mi11ionary at Motlto.
I J1ll&D Millm.
 ANDREW SMITH DrART

was known to Milne's own people who might be

questioned as to the fact.
Sent word to Masalacatzie that it was possible the
Caffers might fly in bis direction and he had better
be prepared to defend himself. He said that was
good ; he could from that see that we were bis friends,
as if not we would not have sent him such news.
I also desired Maclaniani to tell him I had seen
Dingan 1 and I was in hopes if I saw him that I
must be able to establish peace between them. He
said when he saw me he would make me acquainted
with the cause of the enmity between him and
Dingan.
On the 23 inst. I accused Mohura of permitting
some of bis people to keep some oxen in their pos-
session which were the property of Masalakatzie.
After some explanation lie acknowledged that he
was aware of the circumstance but that they had
taken them from people who had taken them from
Masalacatzie. I told him if I had to return to the
Colony knowing that and without also knowing that
he had sent them back I would be forced to speak
of him as a bad man. I told him I might some day or
other be required by the white king to speak of bis
character, and if so I could not if reparation was not
made say anything but evil of him. I told him likewise
that such acts would be printed and would get to
Europe, and perhaps after that persons who had read
of him would visit this country and when they reached
Kuruman and found him to be the chief they would

1
H1Jll u,_,,
On hit trip to Zululand with Captain Edie in tBJ'" See C•J>I of Gootl
C.,,,tu, Cape Tcnm, 11,1.11,1, Vol. h, No. T• p. u6.
 .ANDlllrW SMITH DI.ART

recollect the occurrence and despise him, in the same

way as I did Darhuip ; also that on my seeing Masah.-
catzie I might request of him not to disturb Mohura.
He might tell me " I have reason to do so, he has
some of my cattle " ; I could then certainly not
urge my request.

And lastly I told him from knowing the circum-

stance I could not conscientiously make over to him
the present sent for him by the governor, though
he had given me satisfactory answers to all the
questions I was required to put to him, till he had
proved to me by giving up the stolen cattle that he
was inclined to maintain peace. He saw the force of
the remarks and promised to have them immediately
collected and that they should be given over in my
presence to the Litabeli who would be with us on
our way to Masalacatzie. I also called to his recol-
lection that a woman had stated that she had fled
from Masalacatzie along the Kuruman road knowing
that she would not be pursued if she took that direc-
tion. I pointed out to him how wrong it was in him
to petmlt Masalacatzie to be injured from that direc-
tion when he treated that road with such considera-
tion, that he would by such means bring shame upon
it also would have it bear the marks of the Matabe[li]
commandoes like those in other directions. Mackla-
niani says Masalacatzie does not intend to take Peter
David's daughter to wife as it is contrary to their
customs for the king to marry a captive. He has
given the son and the other two seven cows to milk,
and the former together with the chief are in charge
of the wagon. Two of the Griqua wagons broke down
on the road and were left bChind.
 .ANDREW SMITH DI.Al.Y

17 MARCH (PIUD.A.T).

Employed most of the day in arranging the col-

lection of birds, animals, etc. Thermometer last
night 49. Several more cases of q11atsi1 seen to-day.
One man died a few days ago ; the local disease
made its appearance upon the .right forearm.

28 MARCH (SATURDAY).

In the early days amongst all the Buchuana it was

customary to seal a covenant or agreement touching
mutual friendship by pulling each others noses.
After this whenever a man who had had his nose
pulled by another visited him o.r arrived where he was,
he was entitled to demand anything he wanted from
him and he was bound to give it. When they salute
a chief they say . . . interpreted ... ; 1 when common
people meet [they] say romala.• The Buchuanas use
a sort of berry and dry it, pound it, and mix it with
sweet milk which forms rather a palatable dish. Very
partial to thick milk. Caffers of the Batclapin and others
when finding it necessary to cross rivers flooded,
search for the trunk of a tree which is very light, lay
on it holding fast with one arm and the other hand
they use as a paddle. a When they require to pass
with oxen, provided the cattle be large and able of
themselves to cross, they catch hold of their tails and
get their assistance across ; if the cattle be young the
Caffers usually pass below them and during their
1 The words are omitted in the manuscript. The salutation. howcftt.
wu: Mom111, master.
f I Dl.1/tJ, good-day,
• The old Kon.na pnictiec,
 ANDREW SMITH DIARY 3H
passage keep driving them obliquely upwards against
the stream. RN111ala 1 means "I send to" and it is
usually replied to by the person saluted with h
rt1111etsa 1 meaning " I have believed."
The river north of Kuruman is called Motluare,
Motluareen in the ablative case, 8 the river still more
north is the Mashua, often it is spoken of as
Mashaueen.' Mashua means white sand or perhaps
simplf sand. This river is very full of sand. Motluarc
is [soj called in consequence of the number of wild
olive trees, litluare 1 [being] the name for that tree ;
the name of the tribe, derived from their having lived
at :first by those trees, they are called Batluaroo. The
Batclapin call themselves also Bapuroo-huroo, which
means they of the steenbok, also Bapuroo-chuana. •
The proper name of Mohura's residence is Letako, the
ablative Letakoon.
When a girl menstruates the first time she is accord-
ing to the Batclapin custom required to abstain from
speaking for a month, and during the time she is
unwell she is fed by some old woman.
Thermometer during last night fell to 30.
When people join Masalacatzie from an enemy's
country he always places them in his country at a
station the most remote from the place from which
they have fled in order that should they be spies they
will have difficulty in escaping.
i &"""6, to send for.
• K1dlmt1111, I am happy. Smith is completely " off' the target " here.
The mistake he made is wcll described in Livingstone, D., M/11/DINl'y
Tr11111Js tmtJ &rlllT'/Ju ht SOll/b Afrito, London, 1857, pp. J7·j8.
• Locative, adverbial form.
• Mathlowing River.
I UIJhwrl.
• Phuduhudu, Phuduhwana.
H4 ANDREW SMITH DIARY

2.9 MARCH (SUNDAY).

Divine service as usual. A report reached to-day

that Mohura's people had been stealing more cattle
from Masalacatzie.
30 MARCH (MONDAY).

A Caffer arrived this afternoon from Motito with

letters, one from Mr. Lemu and one from Mr. Burrow ;
contained nothing regarding the cattle stolen from
Masalacatzie. Early this morning I dispatched letters
containing instructions to Mr. Kift to move the
wagons and people immediately to Kuruman should
he find that cattle had been taken again. The messenger
who brought the letters here states that he heard the
report at Motito. He states that he heard that cattle
had been taken, that they had been left in the field,
that men had come by Mohura's kraal to know if they
might bring them to the kraal. No person had in-
formed Mr. Lemu of the report; were afraid lest it
might be false. With the exception of the persons
attached to the mission all others avoid informing
of such transactions knowing that he reproves them
severely for such conduct. The statement was made
in the hearing of the Litabeli sent by Masalacatzie.
The messenger was a Morolong and spoke of the
conduct of Masalacatzie in respect to his nation. He
accused the former of having first injured them.
The other, a Maquan,1 got quite animated and deneyed
the charge with much warmth ; he seemed much better
versed in the history of the transactions which
marked the proceedings in early days than the Moro-
1Kweoa.
 ANDREW SMITH DIARY 335
long and stated in firm and clear tones the actual
truth.
3I MARCH (TUESDAY).

The Bechuanas in softening and preparing their

skins for karosses scrape them with the teeth of a
sheep, goat or other animal of that description, it
being previously moistened with water. A Bechuana
infant for some time after birth has long soft hair that
they shave off and then the curled hair grows.
The Litabeli says that the posts of Masalacatzie which
are situated in the Wanket 1 country are generally in
charge of people who have been conquered, he
fearing nothing in that direction. The cattle are taken
care of in the field by children. When they do not
reach the kraal about the usual time the men think
that they are only kept later by the children. When
night arrives and they do not come home then they
think they have been stolen, and they repair to the
spot where they had been feeding. Next morning,
when they ascertain that they have been taken away
they then go off to one of the chiefs to report the cir-
cumstance ; he orders a commando to proceed in
search of them. To get men together requires several
days so that it is not easy sometimes to overtake them.
At the time Piet Barend took the cattle Masalacatzie
himself happened to be at a neighbouring kraal not
many miles distant (perhaps 4) from the kraal where
they were taken. The men were all together to partake
of what was killed and therefore they were quickly
on the pursuit. These posts are principally in charge of
Baharootzie, and they may probably connive at the
1 Ngwakctse.
y
 ANDREW SMITH DIAR.T

robberies of the people from this side. Most of

Masalacatzie's fighting men are on the other side in
order to watch the Griquas and Jan Bloom. The
Litabeli insists that Masalacatzie will not send a
commando in this direction whilst he is here with
a message for us. This opinion of his is doubtless
known to the Batclapins, and they are probably pre-
suming upon their security. It is generally believed
that Mohura does not wish a friendly alliance to be
established with Masalacatzie ; he would rather have
matters remain as they are and he have the opportunity
from time to time to steal a few cattle. It has been
said at his kraal that the best way to prevent us going
into the interior is to steal some cattle from Masala-
eatzie.
In the early times of the mission here it was con-
ttary to law to cut the hack dorn whilst the com was
unripe, also some other sorts of wood. On one occa-
sion Mateebie gave permission to Mr. Hamilton to
cut one of the proscribed sort, and soon after sent
him a message that some of his old men were averse
to it and that he must not go. However, Mr. H.,
being all prepared, went and cut the wood. Mateebie
complained to Dr. Philip ;1 he said the clouds just
showed themselves behind the hills over the place
where the wood had been cut and then disappeared.
They objected very much to drying cloths as the
rain-makers had asserted that it drove the rain away.
It was common in those days to strew medicines in
certain positions with the intention of making some
person disliked sick ; whenever they saw what they

i Rev. John Philip, of the London Missionary Society. Theal, G. M.,

Hiiiary of Sotllb Afri" (1854-18,4). London, 1888, .Vol. iii, pus/•.
 ANDREW SMITH DIARY H7
did not recognise lying on the ground they regarded
it as something of that kind.
Motebie went out with a large commando against
the Baquana about 1818 after being much advised to
the contrary by Mr. Read. He was defeated and a
great number of his people killed ; the Batclaru were
with him. He had formed an alliance with Sifonelo,
& Baralong chief, and the latter was to attack with his
commando as soon as he knew that Motebie had
commenced. On Motebie's return he attacked the
posts of Sifonelo and took away a portion of his cattle.
The latter on returning heard of that and in turn fell
upon the stragglers of the Batclapin and killed them.
About the month of Jany. the king and several of
his old chiefs assembled and some of the Caffer water
melons were brought. The king took one of the
leaves and placed it between his teeth, then all the
people began to use them. They would not at first
use pumpkins or Colonial melons till the same
ceremony had been gone through; now such is little
requttcd anywhere and not at all at the station.1
Mohura was the first man that commenced wearing
trousers. He was much ridiculed and even abused for
adopting the white men's customs and laying aside
those of his forefathers ; he persisted and several
others soon followed his example. On one occasion
he was prevented joining in a dance till he cast them
off. Make trousers of hartebeast skins, exceedingly
warm ; not difficult skins to procure.
In the early days of the Mission at Kuruman the
people were very impertinent to the missionaries. On
l Com~ Campbell, J., Trtmb In SDlllh Afrit4 (Second Journey), London,
llu, Vol. il, p. 197.
 ANDREW SMI'l'H DIARY

one occasion Mrs. Moffat told a woman to go out of

the cook-house as she wished to lock the door and go
to church, the woman looked at her for a moment
and then took up a yokeskey 1 which was there and
raised it to strike her. On another occasion they had
some people employed in cleaning heads of Indian
corn. Mrs. Moffat went to the spot and perceiving a
great number assembled told two or three to go
away as there were enough without them ; one of
the women raised her hand to strike Mrs. Moffat.
Something similar happened to either Mrs. Hudson
or Mrs. Broadbent; 1 a woman attempted to strike
her with a stick. Such occurrences were common in
those times but their conduct is very different at pre-
sent. No redress could be got by reporting such
proceedings to the chief; all that he did was to say
they are stupid.
It is customary amongst the Batclapins, etc., to get
on the top of a house or some high place and pro-
claim aloud during the night all the faults of his wife
in order to put her to shame and let it be known to
the other women of the village.
During the night thermometer fell to 4'.
I APRIL (WBDNESDAY).

The Batclapins after a heavy rain were not per-

mitted to work next day ; often a general order was
issued by the chief prohibiting any women from
going to work. Mr. Hamilton in one of his letters to
the Missionary Society mentions that a rain-maker on
1 Jubkei, or lokc ~
1 The wives o Rev. T. L. Hodgaon and Rev. S. Broadbent of the We1·
t.yan Mieeionary Society.
 ANDlll'!.W ~MITH :DlillY

approaching Kuruman was presented with a sheep and "'

tliit he washed it previous to entering the town ; also
that a woman was killed by lightening and the chief
with all the people proceeded to the place, sticking
hassegays in the ground and making :fires to give the
clouds smoak. They washed the body very carefully
and then permitted the body to be buried. The day
after the moon is :first seen when new they abstain
from labour. After they used to have rain the rain-
maker was in the habit of walking round the town
and he was generally followed by a number of women
singing, shouting and dancing ; he proceeded round
in order to get presents from such people as might be
inclined to give them.
2 APRIL (THURSDAY).

Agreeable to my request Mr. Burrow left Motito

with Mr. Hume and arrived this morning. Disease
still troublesome.
About May or April [they] begin to prepare the
young girls for the circumcision ceremony. When
undergoing it they are without karosses, rand] have a
great number of strips of reeds and pumpkin seeds
suspended round the loins and cords bound round
the chest. Each has in her hand a hack dom switch
to beat away the boys. They go to the water about
sunrise, and are regularly washed towards the termina-
tion of the ceremony. They arc held up upon the
shoulders of a woman with their legs opened in order
that the old women who are active on the occasion
may ascertain if they are fitted to marry. It is said
that at this time their hands are scorched with pot
irons to harden them. No men are allowed to be
 ANDREW SMITH DIARY

present during the ceremonies which a.re .Performed

upon the girls. When the boys arc to be cu:cumciscd
All the cattle arc brought together and the ceremony
usually takes place at the king's kraal. Many cattle
arc killed. The houses in which they arc to reside
whilst separated from the kraal, which are about a
mile distant, must be built in z4 hours. Almost all
the people are occupied in getting them ready. The
men proceed about evening to cut wood and the
women to get grass ; they work during the night and
usually have tlicm finished by midday following.
Thcte appears much reason to fear that Mohura
has actually taken the second cattle from Masalacatzie
though he denies it strongly. I have therefore ordered
the wagons from Motito lest a commando of M.
should follow to Takoon.

~ .APRIL (PRIDAY) •

.After the ceremony of circumcision is over all get

new karosses and according to the sex they are
reckoned men or women. In the evening a package
of letters arrived from Griqua Town.

4 APRIL (SATURDAY).

The wagons arrived from Motito as also Mr. and

Mrs. Lemu. Reason to believe that a second portion
of cattle had been taken from Masalacatzic by
Mohura's people.
J .APRIL (SUNDAY).

Divine service performed 4 times and the sacrament

administered to the members of the church.
 ANDREW SMITH DIARY

6 APR.IL (MONDAY).

Mr. Hamilton was present when a chief was buried.1

They dug a grave about three feet deep and nearly
circular. That being done the body was brought out,
bound up in a net, and carried through a hole made
in the hedge avoiding purposely the door. It was set
down close to the grave, then the rain-maker rubbed
the inside of grave with bulbs cut into slices. The
body was then placed in it and the earth taken up in
wooden basins and strewed round it ; persons trod
it down with their feet. When :filled up neatly to the
top of the hand they halted and placed on the latter
a ring of plaited grass, then :filled on till all was covered.
This beiiig done, the men who were chiefly engaged
wash the extremities of their feet, and during this
time a great number of basins of water were brought
by the women and set near the grave. The men
took them up and threw the water over the
grave ; upon this being finished the men retired and
the women commenced howling most dreadfully.
When first placed in the grave they brought his bow,
arrows, hassegays, bones of a pack ox, etc., and told
him those were his and he hid left them all, then
removed them away again. When a person of any
importance or one much beloved is sick and it is
believed they will die, the women run about like mad
persons, knocking their heads against houses, fences,
etc., beating with their karosses on the ground and
howling most dreadfully. The relations after a death
sit pensive in the working kraal and scarcely speak to
any one. Mr. Hamilton thinks that arises in most cases
1 This lilformation will also be found in Moffat, R., Missiont6y Ldwrs
1111ti SmtU m Sot11bmt Aft*o, London, 1842, pp. 507-509.
 ANDREW SMITH DIARY

from real grief. For a time after the death of a person

the relations arc not permitted to enter the cattle kraal.
Mohatla was chief of the Baharootzie when Mr.
Lemu went and settled amongst them. They were
all living together and according to his idea amounted
at that time to s or 6,ooo.
7 APRIL (TUESDAY).

8 APRIL (WEDNESDAY). 1

9 APRIL (THURSDAY).

Bushmen arc in great repute amongst the Buchuanas

on account of their supposed skill in the curing of
diseases.
10 APB.IL (FRIDAY).

After the young girls are assembled for the cere-

mony they proceed to the water accompanied by the
old women, wash themselves, mix white clay and paint
themselves. They then return to their homes and
get their dresses ready which consist of reeds hung
round the thighs like a petticoat, and plaited grass in
cords crossed like soldiers' belts on the chest; over the
eyes a piece of old skin or reeds. They after this pro-
ceed every morning to the water to carry some to
the house, and before they leave it daily they dance
for a time upon their knees, placed in a row. When
they return the first day from the water a young girl
marches between two old women, and they will
1 There are no entries for these two daya.
 ANDREW SMITH DIAltY

then go through the village without regarding the

men. But after they have got their dresses on they
are more particular ; when they proceed to the water
after they have the dresses they always carry a hack
dorn twig to beat boys who may come in their way
whilst at the water. After dancing they are flogged
by the old women. As soon as they return with the
water they place it in the house and then go off to the
field to carry wood ; whilst there they are also
flogged. That ceremony lasts for a month, and when
nearly over they abuse the men whenever they see
them ; the old women with them do that, saying
they are lazy, they will do nothing but sleep with
women, they think of nothing but getting children
and that is for nothing as they provide no food for
them to cat. The boys when they are nearly well
abuse the women when they come near them in the
same way. The new dress is made from the tops of
the corn stalks and between each joint is placed the
seed of a pumpkin. The cords are placed on the body
when they are damp and they often get so hard be-
fore they are removed that they chafe or even cut
the body. When over, all these are burnt and they get
new karosses ; begin also to wear the twin karosses like
the old women.
When a person is sick in a Buchuana house they
place a stick across in front of the door or else hang
up an old skin which tells that nobody must enter ;
they think the sick person will get worse if visited
by a stranger. When a girl first menstruates she can
speak to no man but must sit inside of the fence till
well ; when she begins to be sick the old women
set up a cry which makes all the village aware of
what is taking place.
344 ANDREW SMITH DIARY

The guana is held sacred not only amongst the

Batclapin but also amongst the Baharootzie ; they
say that if they kill it they will get no more rain, not
believing that it gives rain but that rain will be with-
held from them as a punishment for the act. When
Mt. Lemu killed a flamingo, the t~~ple said it was
tlarie, 1 meaning thunder or anyt · g very strange,
and a considerable Baralong chief came to him from
Takoon to get a bone of this bird to produce rain.1
Mt. L. threw away a the bones of the wings when
skinning the bird, and [the] said chief took up one of
them, rolled it up in his kaross and carried it off.
When it thunders strongly men will often spring out
with hassegays in their hand, abuse it, and say if it
comes that way they will kill it.
During the circumcision of the boy cattle must
be killed every day. The poor people come together
to the chief's kraal and he must feed them during the
ceremony ; those that possess cattle take perhaps
each an ox and give it to the chief leaving it with
him when it is to be killed. In former times Bushmen
and all sorts of people used to assemble on such oc-
casions to partake of the feast but now they arc not
so liberal, restricting their gifts to the parents of the
children.
When the relatives of a man arc sick he cannot
according to their laws pass a stream of water ; he
can go as far as the river but not across it. It does
not matter whether there be water in the river or not.
i Hllfli, a thunderbolt.
• To make the lllllu, or doctor'• whistle. Sec Kirby, P. R., Tin Mtuiral
INW-mls ef I/JI N•liw Ram 1/ Solllb AfrW, London. 1954, pp. 97""98,
and Pktca 5¢ and ,,A.
I .. Again .. in MS.
 ANDlll!W SMI'I'H DIAllT 34S
When it is wished to form a matrimonial alliance 1
between a boy and girl the boy tells it to his mother;
she goes to the mother of the girl and says her boy
wishes the girl; the mother of [the] girl says she will
speak to the husband and to her neighbours and let
her know also what will be the price required to be
paid. Shortly after, according to the decision, the
mother of [the] girl tells the mother of the boy, and if
agreed to the cattle are sent and the mother of the boy
sends an ox to the father of the girl to be killed,
[and] the mother of the girl sends an ox to the father
of the boy to be killed. The brother of the girl has
the distributing of the ox sent to the father of the girl.
Neither father of the bride nor bridegroom goes to the
feast, but each has his portion sent to his house. After
the circumcision, if the agreement has been made when
they were children, the bride can go to the house of
the bridegroom or rather to the new house which is
prepared for her.
Mohura once arrived at Takoon and saw two kids
in his garden; he flew at a man who was grinding
corn close to Mr. Lemu's house and who had not
charge of the garden and beat him severely with the
sambuc 1 which he had in his hand, first with the small
end then with the large, by which he cut his head.
The man remained perfectly quiet and said only " I
am one of your people; you can kill me." Crippled or
deformed childien are generally destroyed soon after
birth and deranged persons seldom are permitted to
live long because almost the first injury they inflict
is punished by death.
1 See Lestradc, G.P., in S.A. /,,,,.,,./ 1/ Sd""', Jolwmclbma, 19a6,
Vol. niil, pp. 957-942.
I Sjambok.
 AND~ SMITH DIAllY

The Batclapins, at least the poor amongst them who

live in the fields, will not destroy the lion. They rise
in the morning, look round to observe if any vultures
are flying, and if so they proceed towards the spot
where they are seen, and ita lion has killed any game
they beat upon skins and other articles whereby a
great noise is produced sufficient to frighten away the
animal (vide drawing, Bell 1) and then they seize the
prey. They swallow the marrow of animals uncooked.
Eat a wolf at Motito ; say when fat it is very good.
When game killed, [they] catch the blood in the two
hands, transfer it into a bag and carry it away and cook
it. When killing is in progress at a kraal the people
are all so engaged that it is impossible to get almost
anyone to attend service. Once a favorite amongst
the Batclapins died ; a chief told Mr. Lemu that all
the people were too sorry to be able to attend service.
One more open said "Why has God killed so and so?
What harm did he ever do to God ? " They would
not attend church apparently as a sort of revenge.
A Baralong chief placed a head of Caffer corn on
each side of the cattle kraal gate for good luck. There
was a tree near where Mr. Lemu lived when with the
Baharootzie, and Mokatla would not permit him to
cut it because, said he, it will frighten away the rain.
The Baharootzie often separate the sick from the
village. Mr. L. once found four or five people who
were sick lying in a ravine whither they had been
conveyed by the people of the kraal ; food was carried
to them though in small quantities. The Bechuanas
place unripe beans in a hole in the ground to ripen ;
say a few days will accomplish it. During circumcision
of the girls they eat mackaloni 1 beans and cannot
1 I cannot trace this drawing. 1 I cannot identify this word.
 ANDREW SMITH DIARY 347
drink milk nor eat animal food. Cut pumpkins into
thin slices and dry them ; will keep good during
the winter.
11 ~APRIL!(SATUP.DAY).

In . . . . . 1 Hume accompanied Mr. Lemu to the

Baharootzie and after the ground was pointed out
where the station was to be formed Mokatla remarked
that now he was very glad as he would get plenty of
flesh, meaning they would get a supply of guns and
powder. Before the arrival of the missionaries the
Baharootzie used to profess a great anxiety for mission-
aries, believing that peace and quietness went with
them, and they thought that if they had them they
would be able to sleep without fear. When they
arrived at Mokatla's there were several Basootoo there
to trade. Some Matabeli arrived soon after with
Mr. Pellisier's wagon which was returning from
Masalacatzie. The instant the Basootoo observed
them approach they got up and retired ; one of the
Matabeli called out "You need not go, I sec you." Mr.
Lemu had been there for some time before the Mata-
beli arrived. Mokatla, fearing that it would be told to
Masalacatzie that the Basootoo were with him, under
pretence of their being spies resolved to kill them.
This was immediately conveyed to Mr. Lcmu, and
he requested Mr. Hume who was long known to
Mokatla to go to him and endeavour to prevent it.
As Mr. H. advanced towards the town he met people
returning from a kloof at a little distance from the
town with the karosses of the poor unfortunate men
covered with blood, taking them to Mokatla. The
1 No date given. The year, however, was 181?· Thcal, G. M., His"'J
•I S1NJh Afriro (1154-1814), London, 1888, Vol. ili, p. ,17.
 ANDREW SMITH DIARY

policy of Mokatla in this case was to keep friends

with Masalacatzie, and at the same time let the circum-
stance be known to Dingan, should they have been
spies from him. He therefore connived at the escape
of two who might tell the tale and gave them to
understand that he was forced to destroy the others
by Masalacatzie.
Some time after this ten Zoolas approached the
town and the chief man sent to Mr. Lemu for some
meat, saying he was tired ; the meat was given and
taken past the chief who in about ten minutes arrived
at the wagon. A report had previously been in cir-
culation that M. intended to send a commando to
destroy them or force them all to go to him. The fate of
the meat increased the probability ; they thought
it was sent to it. 1 The Matabcli during the night
would not sleep by the fire but distributed themselves
in various places ; one went amongst the com,
another in the kraal and so on. This was suspicious.
Next day Mokatla came to the wagons with three
Zoolas and said they must all go to Masalacatzie or
he Mokatla would be killed. They then decided
upon leaving, but instead of its being for M. it was
for the Kuruman.
Next year Hume saw M. in his own country and
he denied it all and said it was Milne who had told
them some lies. Milne, when they were with the
Baharootzie, arrived there from Masalacatzie's country.
As soon as Masalacatzie was made acquainted with
the death of the Basootoo he sent an ox to Mokatla
to be killed and the murderers to be cleansed by
passing through a ring formed of the stomach of
the ox. Hume saw ill the murderers, who were
1 Thm In MS.1 poalbly "to him."
 ANDREW SMITH DIAllY 349
readily k.oown by a black vertical stripe in the middle
of the forehead. As soon as the act was perpetrated
a number of men were sent out to collect roots to
cleanse the operators ; that was done next morning
and then the black stripe was washed off.
It is said that the Baquana and W ankets were
originally one tribe. In making karosses of furs
the Buchuanas sow the skins together with thread
made from the sinews of cattle and they preserve it
in hanks like those of Europeans and place the one
in use double between a piece of skin which en-
velops the entire length of the thread. They first
pierce the skins with their needle then withdraw it,
straighten the point of the thread by twisting it
between the finger and thumb like a shoemaker
and then push it through the hole made by the needle.
In thatching their house and in fixing the poles, etc.,
they either employ the bark of the Mimosa torn into
narrow strips or cord formed of grass. They break
the husks of beans with a stone ; also with a round
stone they beat out their com, then throw it in the
wind to carry away the chaff.
When persons are wounded in the wars or seriously
sick it is customary for the Buchuanas to build a
house for them away from the kraal and place people
to take care of them. Malala's son was wounded by
a buffalo and he was placed apart in that way ; a
lion visited his hut and carried him away during
the night.
I2. APRIL (SUNDAY).

Light rain last night. Mr. Hamilton was th;s

morning at Kuruman and he advanced towards a
 ANDREW SMITH DIARY

house where he saw a fue burning to get some fue

to kindle his pipe ; the man ruslied out in a great
hurry and requested him to stop as a man was dan-
gerously sick with f114lsi1.
I 3 APRIL (MONDAY).

The Baquans separated some time ago into two

parties. One remained under Kama,1 and when
Hume visited them about three years ago they might
consist of about five or six thousand ; the other
party under a chief named Lichali 1 lived with his
people on the road to the Bamangwato and was the
stronger of the two. About Jany. i833 Hume saw
them, and many of them had been destroyed a little
before by one of Masalacatzie's commandoes in con-
sequence of their not evincing an inclination to be
tributary to him ; they had no cattle. Kama on one
occasion fled. M. sent a commando after him and
brought him back ; gave him charge of a post of
cattle. Mohura's brother was on a hunting party
and when in pursuit of game lost his companions.
He, when night came on, halted, tied his horse to a
tree, and went to sleep. Both he and the horse were
in the night destroyed by lions ; only his shoes were
found in the morning. A few days ago three Batlaroo
women were in search of certain seeds. One remained
a little behind the other two not being ready to pro-
ceed with them but intended to follow immediately.
Night arriving, the other two went to sleep and
the third not arriving they returned next day to seek
for her. They saw close to the spot where they had
1 Khama.
I Sichcli (1).
 AND~ SM:Int DIAP.T ;p
left her a number of vultures, and on approaching
found the body almost quite cop.sumed.
A woman was required to cup Mrs. M. She, a
practised hand, was sent for ; message returned that
her daughter had given birth to a child last night
and therefore she could not come near Mrs. M.
I went to the house, found the door fixed and could
get no women to go in ; all were afraid lest they
should be abused for entering. There exists a belief
that thereby the child might be injured.
They moisten the skins for making karosses by
placing them under wet sand.
They bury sweet reeds and in this way preserve
it during the winter.
Observed a stick placed across the outer door ;
entered and found a woman with a whitlow in
the thumb. Men would not enter ; some came to
the door but turned away again. Placing the stick
is the old custom.
When any member of a person's family, particularly
a child, has died, the people of other kraals will give
him no cooked meat till his wife has another child,
because they say their cattle will die and those that
are with young sheep or goats will produce dead
ones. He can receive raw meat and cook it himself.
The Batclapin produce £re in the same way as the
other Caffers. The circumcision both of boys and
girls is at present going on at Motebi's.
14 .APP.IL (TUESDAY).

" You are come to tell me that other white people

are coming.~ They can come. If they wish to hunt,
1 Report of the mcsacnger who had been sent to Mzilikui.
z
 ANDREW SMITH DIARY

they can come. H bad men, they can go somewhere

else, but not come to him." They answered, "These
men are not come to do evil ; they are coming
with a good intention." He, M., said : You must
tell Mohura to tell the Baharootzie that they must
not go on stealing from him, else he will send a
commando and destroy them ; he will send to theit
town. They must tell Moffat that he must tell the
Baharootzie to leave off stealing. People will say
that now the Baharootzie are now living with Moffat
and Mohura, and if he sends a. commando in that
direction it is against Moffat and Mohura. Masala-
catzie says it is good. Mr. Moffat must go and after
he returns he must send him the news and M. will
send him the news in turn ; that the same messengers
must go. Met the first Matabe[li] at Mosegha.
The first, they say, were women and children watching
the corn who hid themselves in the corn. A few of
the children ran to the kraal to tell the others, soldiers
who were busy skinning and eating of the flesh
of an ox. They looked towards them and instantly
saw that it wa.s Maclaniani and that it was [anl ox
which Masalacatzie gave to Mr. Moffat. One ol the
soldiers ran to tell the hlna1 (Oapeli) 1 who came,
and as he approached Maclaniaru and the others
saluted him with their guns. The chief immediately
took them to the kraal, gave them sweet reeds and
milk [and] told them they must stop there that day.
This chief sent for another chief the same evening ;
he came the next day and took them to Masalacatzie.
When they reached Masalacatzie's kraal he was
upon a hill as stated. Maclaniani and Lepeli went
l /lllitma •
• nhap:li (?).
 ANDUW SMITH DIAllY

up to the hill to him. Soon after they came down

and Masalacauie ordered beer to be brought ; he
gave first to Maclaniani, then Lepeli, then to the
narrator. When the last had done dfinking he handed
it to one of Masalacattie's people. M. said " You must
not do that; you are hungry. It is my business to
take care of them," meaning his people. " You are
hungry ; I shall send you more. You must keep it.
Lately sent a commando against Sibiqua, but the
sun was so strong that it weakened them much.
When they reached Sabiquoa's kraal he was aware
of their approach and they had forced a poor Kalahari
to go as guide to show them the water. He took
them in a wrong direction and told them that water
was by that tree, but there was none. He knew that.
At that moment Sabiqua sent his people in three
divisions, one on each side and a third in the middle,
[and] fell upon them almost dead with thirst and put
them to flight. They slept next day. Sabiqua followed
up his victory, fell upon them and killed many;
the rest fled back to Masalacattie. It was not the
soldiers but the boys. All the 111achaha 1 arc in the
Baharoouie mountains on this side watching for
Jan Bloom.
Statement of Molcmo regarding the lake 1 which
is in the interior. When the locusts wish to cross it
they fall in before they can cross it. [He] is a Mang-
wato ; always lived there. Their chief, called Moremc, 11
had posts on all sides. Can cross three times in the
same day in a boat. There is only one place where
they can do it often ; at another place they cannot
1 Amajoho.
I Lab Npmi.
I Mon:mi.
 ANDllEW SMITH DIAllY

sec the ground on the opposite side. It runs towards

the cast, shown by putting some light substance upon
the surface of the water. On the west of the lake
live the Batclama Damaras,1 who are like the Matabeli.
In the country of the Batclama [there are] large
springs like the Kuruman and in great numbers.
The fake towards the west is inhabited on all sides
by the Batclama ; the latter have no boats. Bara-
longs used to live where the W ankets 1 latterly lived.
Sab1qua used formerly to live in the country now
inhabited by Masalacatzie. From Lehotiting • to
the Bamangwato there is only rain water, which is
a distance of 4 days with a few pack oxen. It is
towards the middle of the lake that they cross the
water ; on each side very broad. On the west of
the place where they pass they cannot see the other
side of the water ; to the east they can see across and
as it extends east it diminishes in size. Runs far to
the east, but [he] does not know where it terminates;
farther down than the Bamangwato, Batlete,' than
Bakalaka, Bamangwato ; this portion was with the
other but they fought together and the first portion
fled. They got beads from the Bakalaka. Where
the water comes from is another tribe, Bacompo ;'
brought them large white beads of the size of a
musket ball and also the iron of hassegays about a
foot and a half in length like a knife, not like the
Batclama but like the Bechuana. The Bamangwato
used to take karosses to buy beads ; the hair hung
down in long strings to the middle of the back. The
1 Herero.
INawaketae.
1 Leliututu, a Kgalagadi Tiilage in the middle ol the Kalahari.
' Botletle.
I B&kompe.
 ANDREW SMITH DIARY

chief of the people that attacked them on the lake was

Sibatwani1 and Madclet.zi.• The people were dressed
like the Basuto with black karosscs. Malala knows
Sibatwani. There was another chief with him,
Lcshage.•
I' APlUL (wm>NESDAT).

Conrad Buys, a Dutch colonist, during his absence

from his farm, left his property, partly consisting of
merchandise procured in Cape Town upon credit.
in charge of some neighbours, but they permitted
it to be destroyed by the Caffers. On his return he
was prosecuted and everything he had was sold,
as also some other punishment was awarded him.
He upon that fled beyond the Colony and lived amongst
the Caffers. He never continued long in one position,
always moving from chief to chief, and was constantly
employed in stealing cattle from the tribes in the
neighbourhood.
In the year ...... ' Arend, a runaway slave, joined
him together with another from the district of Graaf£
Rcynet whose daughter Arend had married, and who
came to him when he, Arend, was residing at Langc-
berg. Buys at the time Arend joined him had 1,500
black cattle and large flocks of sheep and goats. He
had 300 milch cows. He gave to each a portion of
cows, oxen, etc., and always told them they must
never in any attacks give up but rather die. Soon
after they joined him where he was on the Hart
River, it was intimated to him that Stockcnstroom
a Scbetwane, chief 0£ the Pokeng•
• Madiletae.
' Leahabe ; I.e. • light coloured Tnua, or alblao.
• No date aiftO.
 ANDREW SMITH DIARY

had been to Griqua Town to arrange for his capture,

and that a commando of Griquas was about to proceed
against him. He immediately gave directions for
flight and they took a direction towards the Vaal
River and located themselves above Patteberg.1
Herc one day the commando arrived, and after firing
two shots at him they left, takfug no trouble to get
him else they might easily have done it.
Mter this he beard that a large commando was
preparing and fearing from his weakness and want
of guns [and] powder he sent to Sifonel, a Baralong
chief residing in the neighbourhood, and informcd
him that he wished to come and reside under him.
Sifonel came to him and agreed to his joining him,
and promised if the Griquas should come that he
would assist him ; that the cattle Buys possessed
should remain his if he continued to live with him,
but if he left they should remain.
S hortly after this Buys wished Arend and his eldest
son to go to Delagoa Bay to get gunpowder, and he
said he would go with them as far as the Molopo.
Accordingly they started and left Buys. Then they
proceeded to within (what they were told) six days
of the bay, but found that the rivers were flooded
and t here was no possibility of crossing them, nor
would there be for a long time, which induced them
to rct urn and they found the old man still near the
Molopo (March 18z.o). He had determined to live
there and wished Arend to go to Sifonel and get
his cattle and property left there. After some remon-
strances Arend endeavoured to do so but Sifoncl
would not give up the property ; he gave Arend his
a Platberg.
 ANDREW SMITH DIARY H7
and also the cattle which Buys had bought from the
Colony but none of what he had taken from the
natives.
About this time Buys joined the Baharoottie and
was living with them when Mr. Campbell arrived
at Lctako and sent for Arend to go with him to the
Baharootzie. Arend was then on the Hart. As soon
as Buys heard of Campbell's intention he left the
Baharootzie and went off to the Bawankcts. The
latter sent to invite Campbell to visit them and when
Buys heard that he left them also and retired more
inland towards the Bamangwato. There he died a
natural death, and there one of his sons is yet living.
At one time he had two Hottentot wives and a
Caffer wife. He dismissed the two Hottentots before
Arend joined him and lived with the Caffer alone.
On one occasion a letter was sent him from the
Colony offering him a pardon provided he would
return. When Arend delivered it to him he replied :
who would believe Englishmen, he knew them too
well ; they would promise anything just to get hold
of a person ; they would just use him as they had
done Van Yensfeldt 1 and others. He used to manu-
facture gunpowder, but at last his sulphur was ex-
pended and he could procure no more ; it was bad
powder and very weak. When Arend joined him there
were with him two Englishmen who for some crimes
had left the Colony.
Once Buys gave them some oxen to go to the
Colony to get gunpowder. The river was swollen and

1 Van Junvdd.
 ANDREW SMITH :OIAB.T

there was some delay and difficulty in passing it.

When they got over they wished to go separate
roads ; one was not disposed to permit the other
to have any power in making the arrangements.
When the two got over and all was got across by
the assistance of Cotannas, etc., [the] one who wished
to be master was found dead. The other went off
with the cattle to trade with some of the Boots,
and on his return to the river it was again swollen.
The Cotannas fixed some pieces of dry timber to-
gether to enable him to get across and when he was
upon this and neatly in the middle of the rivet it
went to pieces and he was drowned. The Corannas
who were present took the few oxen remaining and a
small quantity of gunpowder which he had procured
to Buys. Arend says he was a very timid man when
in danger.
16 APB.IL (THURSDAY).

Towards the afternoon a heavy thunderstorm and

a good deal of rain in the night. Wind ftom the
west, and blew strong.

17 .APB.IL (PllIDAT).

In the early days the Batclapins inhabited the whole

of the country between the Vaal and Black Rivers,
also about Griqua Town. Werefotced to fly in conse-
quence of attacks from the Colony and from the Cotan-
nas. When the Batalongs separated from the Ba-
hatootzie and came towards Letako, they found the
Batclapins inhabiting that part of the countty.
 .ANDREW SMI'I'H DI.ARY H9
18 APRIL (SATURDAY).

The Batclapins used to catch fish and cat them when

they were poor. 1
The attack upon the Mantatees at Takoon took
place on the 26 March, 1823.• Mr. Moffat visited
Griqua Town previous to that to get assistance from
Waterboer; the result of Mr. Moffat's visit to Griqua
Town satisfied Matebie very much. The interest
Mr. M. had taken in their welfare formed a principal
topic at the meeting.
The enemy entered old Latakoo on the evening of
the 20 ; at the station spent the night in packing up
and hiding stores in the ground. On the 22 the com-
mando of Waterboer amounting to about 100
mounted men arrived. Reports that white people
were amongst the enemy.
On the morning of the 24th started from Kuruman
at 9 a.m. and halted at the Matclarie River.• After
dark Andreas and Mr. Moffat with 11 others mounted
and rode 4 hours in advance and then halted amongst
some trees till morning of 2 5.
On this morning approached the enemy with all
speed. At 10 a.m. came in sight of the enemy who
were lying on a declivity north of where the town
formerly stood and south of where it now stands,
rode up to a young woman who was seen in one of
the ravtnes, said they had come from a distant country
• It ia intcrc:ating to note that the 1lilll0, or totem, of the Tblaping wae
• fiah.
1 It should be Juao, not March. Both Moffat and Tbompeca agtee Oil
thi• point.
I Matknring Rlnr.
 ANDREW SMITH DIARY

but could give no information as to their object.

Every endeavour was made to bring them to terms
and converse with them by approaching to within
about 2 musket shots of their encampment. They
rushed out upon the party [and] rendered it necessary
for them to Hy.
On the 26, Thursday, saddled horses and all to-
gether rode to about 1 5o yds. from their position.
They instantly set up a terrible yell, threw out their
right and left wings and threw numerous hassegays.
Waterboer ordered his people to commence firing.
Many fell, nevertheless (they] sallied forth with
renewed vigour, [and] caused the Griquas to retreat
a little. They fought with great determination, but
in the end were forced to fly. Only one Bechuana
was killed.
The entire men, women and children amounted
to about 40,000. Men robust, smeared with charcoal
and grease ; features resembled the Bechuana. Lower
dresses of the women much inferior to that of the
Bechuana. Men had a small skin about the middle ;
on their head a small cockade of ostrich feathers.
During the engagement naked except skin of middle
and on head ornaments. Sometimes eight rings of
copper round neck, also armlets, leg-rings, and ear-
rings [of] same material ; had porcelain, iron and
copper beads, and some of the men wore very large
ear plates. W capons hassegays, war axes and clubs ;
battle axes somewhat like sickles, more curved,
sharp outside. Language a dialect of the Sichuana.
About 4 p.m. the commando collected and rode
to a fountain on the plain which we reached at 9 a.m.
Took from them upwards of 1,000 head of cattle.
 ANDREW SMITH DIARY

Oaani 1 and Carrahary • two chiefs ; the people of

the former arc called Mapite,• of the latter Batcloqua.'
19 APRIL (SUNDAY).

Divine service as usual. crowded congregation.

10 APRIL (MONDAY).

Preparing to send off four wagons to Motito with

Mr. Lemu.
l I APRIL (TUESDAY).

About u o'clock four wagons and most of the

stores were sent on to Motito.
The Corannas have a ceremony in admitting
youths to the privileges of men. Mr. Hamilton was
once at a kraal when that was in progress. There was
a large fire in a sort of kraal with a pot upon it in
which meat was cooking. He wished to have fire to
kindle his pipe but they would on no account permit
him to approac};l the fire ; the men rushed and pre-
vented him approaching. He saw the principal part
of a fine fat ox there and endeavoured to buy some of
it, but nothing would induce them to sell any of it ;
they said it was impossible that he could use of it.
The young man who was undergoing the ceremony
was sitting alone at a distance and was about fourteen
years of age. The girls also undergo some treatment
1 11hane.
I Karahari.
• Mapiti, or perbapa Mopati, who lived in the desert north of the junc-
tion of the MOlopo mcl Kuruman Riven.
• 'nokwa.
 ANDllEW SMITH DIARY

previous to their being admitted to be women. The

Coranna women could not eat of the meat killed on
the occasion.
When the missionaries moved to the upper station
Motebie would not go, assigning as a reason that the
Bushmen would steal their cattle. After their arrival
at the new station the Bushmen stole their cattle
several times ; they are in the habit when they steal
from Caffers to kill here and there an ox or cow,
knowing that they will not pass meat on the road
without waiting to eat. The dclay so occasioned from
time to time enables them to get off with a certain
portion before the Caffers can get near them.
A Bastard woman well versed in the Coranna
custom tells me that they are in the habit of lending
their wives to each other and she says the Gri9.uas
who are at a distance from the missionary establish-
ments do the same. Long before Mohura carried
off Oaas Dryer's wife an interchange of wives used
to take place between these two. When Mohura used
to visit Klaas Dryer the latter was in the habit of
leaving his house, etc., to the former and vice versa;
at least, the wife of Klaas got so attached to Mohura
that she rejected her real husband and went off with
Mohura. Klaas assigned that as a reason for com-
mencing war upon the tribes in his neighbourhood.

Coa.A.NNA Co.MMANDOES.1

1. About the beginning of Augt. 1824 a consider-

able number of Corannas armed with firearms, bows
1 n- 11CCOU11ts were obtaloed &om Moffat by Slllith.
 ANDREW SMITH DIARY

and arrows headed by Jacob Ooete and Klass· Dryet's

disaffected Griquas fell upon the village and the
vicinity of Quis,1 a town of Batlarus on the Kuruman
River. The attack being unexpected they succeeded
in taking a great number of cattle. Between 30 and
40 persons including seven chief men were shot by
the marauders who also added to robbing and murder
acts of barbarity to those who fell into their hands.
1. During the month of Sept. the Mountaineers
[so] called from their rendezvous being in the Long
Mountains, attacked the Batlarus, who suffered
severely from the repeated attacks of these lawless
plunderers. A circumstantial account of the loss of
lives and cattle I could not procure with any cer-
tainty, but it must have been considerable from the
state of several villages being reduced to absolute
starvation who before were in affluent circumstances,
having lost not only their cattle and garden produce
but nearly all their karosses, ornaments, etc. At
this period many fled to the northward of the Bara-
longs living on the Molopo.
3. On the 10th of Sept. just as Brother H[amiltonl
and I were getting in readiness to go to our old
station to remove the remainder of the goods, a
message arrived with information that a powerful
commando was on its way to attack the Batlapas.
On the morning of the 11, Friday, we were apprized by
the incessant firing of muskets that the enemy had
actually attacked the town, and the dense volumes of
smoak arising from the different villages convinced
us that the enemy were carrying all before them.
Not being able to send persons to ascertain what
was likely to be the result, we waited some time in
1 See footnote 6 on p. al+
 ANDREW SMITH DIARY

much suspense during which time the women and

children were flying past our station, some fainting
from weakness, ·whilst the more vigorous of the sex
continued their trembling steps towards the south.
From the women we could learn but little, which
induced us to send two men on horseback to learn
something conclusive.
They were scarcely gone when two messengers
from Motebie arrived who stated that the commando
had killed many men, taken an immense number of
cattle and burned their towns. The doleful tale was
scarcely told us when Motebie came, deserted and
forlorn, and related with many a sigh the events of
the day.
Agreeable to Motebie's imperious request we sent
our men to ascertain the real state of affairs and see
if it was possible to obtain an interview with some of
the heads of the commando. Next day our men re-
turned with the following information. On approach-
ing the commando they were fired upon and nearly
surrounded by horsemen which obliged them to
make their escape, which they effected with the greatest
difficulty. One of their hats was shot off with a ball
and a civilised Bushman was taken prisoner and '
or 6 Bechuanas killed.
Next day the commando retired with the plunder
and in a few days afterwards we were enabled by
means of some prisoners, including the Bushman, who
made their escape to form some idea of the marauders
and the ruin they had occasioned. They were com-
posed of Griquas, Bastards from the Colony, some
Namaquas and a great number of Corannas with
some Bushmen ~ also two sons of Conrad Buys
 ANDREW SMITH DIARY

who had lately come from the Colony. The heads of

the party were Griquas; Jacob Cloete, Class Dryer,
Oass Kornet, with Buys' sons, etc., etc. On their
entering the Batlaru country they plundered and set
fire to the villages and destroyed the gardens by
allowing the cattle to eat their produce. Many of
the Batlarus they compelled to accompany them
against the strong Batclapins. The Batclapins and
Myeries 1 made at first a resistance, but being over-
whelmed with firearms and some of the bolder men
falling they fled in consternation. The horsemen
seemed to take an inhuman pleasure in hunting them
down and leaving the men on foot to cut them to
pieces with war axes.
Great cruelties were exercised on females by the
Corannas whilst wresting their ornaments from their
limbs. Many females were taken prisoners that the
brutal consequences might add to their barbarity
that of debauchery. The number of cattle carried off
amounted to several thousands, which, including
the loss of gardens, house utensils and clothing,
was a terrible stroke to comparatively pastoral
people. The number of muskets (nearly 5o) and
horses with plenty of ammunition gave the enemy
the decided advantage over a people naturally timid.
It may be easily conceived how the Bechuanas felt after
the above storm blew over, not understanding or rather
not believing that [through] political intrigue amongst
the Griquas many had broken off all connection and
become characters. The Bechuanas naturally believed,
nor could we convince them to the contrary, that the
1 Docs this refer to the Baycye, or Mayeyc, a Kuba tribe who lived in
Ngamiland ? Compare Livinggtonc, D., Mi.r.siotrary Tr-U 41111 Rullll'&bu
in SMll/J A/ri&tz, London, 1817, p. 141.
 ANDREW SMITH DIAJl.T

Government of the Cape connived at such iniquitous

proceedings, and that their ruin must be the ultimate
object of the Govt. They frequently interrogated
us as to where the Corannas on the Orange River
procured their horses, guns and ammunition; we,
of course, could not deny a notorious fact that they
were purchased with oxen from the farmers on the
limits of the Colony. The recollection of that fact
often made them very violent, from which we some-
times had reason to fear the worst of consequences.
We concluded that from the immense number of
cattle taken it was not likely that a commando would
soon retum, but in this we were mistaken.
4. In the beginning of May, 182.5, another party
from the Orange River headed by Kurasie Cloote
and Klass Kornet entered the Batlaru country. They
had only I 1 horses. There were still a few Batlarus
with only a handful of cattle. Being taken by surprise
their cattle were taken ; five men and one woman were
killed. Encouraged by their success they came up
the Kuruman River towards the Batclapin, who were
still in the vicinity of our station. At one place they
were violently opposed till the old Batlaru chief
Lahiesa 1 was shot, when they immediately fled.
They then came up within three miles of our station
to which place the Batclapins had fled. After surveying
the place from a distance they retired, taking some
young women prisoners. The party brought with
them a wagon which they left at some distance in
care of a few Corannas. The scattered Batlarus,
having being informed of this, repaired to the spot,
killed two Corannas, and took away all that was
1 Lahcai, a Th1aro chief. See Campbell, J., Tr-1.r i11 SOlll/J Afr/111 (Sr.cond
Joamey), Lcadoa. Jiu, Vol. ii, p. 99 11 lllJ.
 ANDREW SMITH DIARY

moveable. They also succeeded in retaking 160

cattle while the party was crossing the desert.
j. About this time several of the Batlarus who had
fied to the Molopo returned to occupy their former
stations. They had scarcely got well settled when
another party of the banditti drove them from their
temporary habitations, took the few cattle they had
and cruelly murdered all who fell into their hands.
The Batlarus becoming desperate by accumulated
ills fell upon the party in die night, killed 7 or 8
and took several muskets. Panic-struck with the
intrepidity of the natives the remainder fled with
the cattle to the Orange River.
6. In the beginning of June, 1817, another party
came from the Great River on pretence of hunting
elephants, and succeeded in getting a party of
reduced Batlarus to accompany them to the Baralongs
near the Molopo. However, when the horsemen
arrived at the outposts of the cattle they seized on the
objects of their pursuit, and the poor Batlarus seeing
how they were gulled had no otlier alternative but to
follow and assist in driving the cattle. In order to
avoid remunerating the Batlarus a cruel plot was laid
by the heads of the party which was to fall upon the
unoffending natives who had been compelled to
assist them. This having been communicated by one
of that number to the Batlaru chief, he in return
made provisions against the time appointed, that
when resting after a long march through a dry
country they rose and killed several men. The
vanquished party fled with nothing more but their
weapons. Amongst the killed were two Griquas,
Hans Berend and Klass Kornet. Several muskets
with all the cattle fell into the hands of the Batlarus.
AA
 ANDREW SMITH DIARY

7. Next day as they were returning along the

Kuruman River congratulating themselves on their
late deliverance, they discovered the approach of a
very large commando. The day following they made
their hostile intentions evident in the neighbour-
hood of Patanie and were successful in plundering
many families of the poor Bechuanas. A very few
cattle they did take but not without sustaining some
loss in horses of which there were but few. Motebi
dreading their approach, sent out a force sufficient
to overcome the marauders, who had upwards of
20 muskets, and from all we could learn no lack of
ammunition.
The commando had also with them near zoo
Corannas and Bushmen armed with bows and arrows.
Motebi's force being divided when the enemy came
on them, they were obliged to fly with the loss of
2 or 3 men. The conquerors they did not come near
the town dreading the approach of Andries Water-
boer who was expected. They made a precipitate
retreat towards the Molopo ; on their journey thither
they murdered the inhabitants of several villages of
the poor Bechuanas. It was supposed that their object
in perpetrating such horrid Cfeeds was to prevent
their approach being made known to the Baralongs.
A few days after this skirmish with Motebi's force,
ten horsemen passed through the Batlaru countty
and followed the commando with a view to join
them. It has since been supposed that they belonged
to the Mountaineers 1 who attacked Griqua Town and
had left immediately after that event. Notwith-
standing their inhuman measures which they adopted
1 Berghenaars.
 A.NDRJ!W SMYTH nrART

to prevent their approach being made known, the

Baralongs had timely notice and fled eastward along
the Molopo. Finding themselves closely pursued,
they resolved on withstanding the marauders ; with
the intention of fighting [they] collected their cattle.
Their fate however was soon decided, for being
overpowered with firearms they took flight and left
their cattle and bag and baggage to the murderous
gang who, overjoyed with such a large booty,
returned in triumph. 3 or 4 Corannas and two
horses were killed by the Baralongs.
On their return towards the Orange River the Batlaru
fell upon them in the desert when the cattle were
taken and retaken several times, till at last the Batlaru
succeeded in taking off almost zoo when the enemy
proceeded with the others towards their rendezvous
on the Oran~e River. We have since been informed
that they arrived without any cattle, the Bushmen in
the Long Mountains having plundered them of what
they retained.
The number of cattle taken by the different com-
ma.ndoes must have amounted to many thousands,
and many hundreds of lives lost independent of the
great numbers who have perished from their want,
being driven from place to place without a house,
a fiela or a garden. The Batlarus have been the greatest
sufferers. Before the commandos they were rich,
peaceable [and] industrious ; now they are un-
provided, scattered and their numbers greatly reduced.
The tribe of Baralongs lately attacked on the Molopo
are reduced to the greatest extent and there is no
doubt but many will be cut off by famine. The
Batclapins have suffered the least, having always
 ANDREW SMITH DIAllY

been in the immediate vicinity of our station. The

comparative peace and union which previously
existed between those minor tribes has been turned
to enmity and vengeance, for the enemy sometimes
compelled one tribe to assist them against another,
and one party being robbed of all that they possessed
had no alternative to supply the imperious pangs of
hunger but to fall on their neighbour's cattle.
As already hinted at, the impressions produced
on the minds of the Bechuana tribes are to them natural
enough, though of a very painful description. Every
commando seemed to have no lack of ammunition,
which gave them the decided advantage. The
Bechuana are also well aware that all that ammunition
came by some means or other from the Colony, and
how such quantities could be obtained without the
connivance of Govt. is to them inconceivable ; and
how the Mountaineers on the Black River near the
limits of the Colony could be allowed so long to
desolate the interior with firearms is to them an
equal mystery.
These impressions became more deeply engraven
on their minds by being informed by prisoners who
have fled from their rendezvous that the marauders
send numbers of oxen to the Colony to purchase
ammunition and they do procure it ; and many of
the tribes, reduced by the Mountaineers, have seen
their own cattle in the possession of colonists. If
some measures be not soon adopted to prevent such
robberies and bloodshed, the time will soon arrive
when the country will become depopulated or its
inhabitants be compelled to sink to the degradation
of Bushmen. Many of the ringleaders in these dcprc-
 ANDREW SMITH DIARY

dations have fallen whilst pursuing their barbarous

career. Several were murdered by the Damaras,
having fled to Namaqualand to elude the vigilance
of Waterboer ; others were murdered in this country.
This letter was addressed to Revd. Mr. Milcs 1 by
Mr. Moffat and was submitted to the Colonial Govern-
ment in the time of General Burke,• written, Dec. J,
1h7, Kuruman.

11 APRIL (WEDNESDAY).

During the absence of Class Dryer with Mr. Moffat

to the Wankets the commandoes began upon the
Caffers. Wm. Engelbright was at the head of several
of the first, and when Klass returned and heard what
had taken place he was much delighted and said it
was just wlia.t he had long wished for. He declared
his intention of also joining. Several persons and
amongst others Barcnd and John Hcndti.cks endea-
voured to dissuade him, but though he promised
them to take no part in such proceedings yet he was
almost immediately in the midst of them. Wm.
Engelbright was one of the six executed by Water-
boer. When the commando was passing near to
Letako with Towane's cattle, Mohura sent Clampan •
to offer his services as a guide and to conduct them
through a place where he had his people lying to
1 Rev. Richard Miles, Superintendent of the London Missionary Society.
See Moffat, R., MissioNITy La/JD#rs tmtl Smus in So111bml Ajrl&a, London.
184:&, pp. 476 II SllJ.
1 Major-General Sir Richard Bourke, Acting Governor at the Ca~,
1826-18:&8, Theal, Hislflry of SOlllh AfrW (1834-1814), London, 1888, Vol.W,
P• a78.
1 One of Mothibi's Captaina. His name is spelled in various wayl ;
Ch•mpani (Butehell), Shainpto~ and 8ampen (Thompeon). It
'WOUid be better tcprclHDad II mi,
37z. ANDREW SMITH DIAB.Y

intettept them. On the occasion when the attack

was made the persons comprising the commando
were without their arms, they being behind in pos-
session of some of the people appointed to carry
them when not required. One man named Isaac
had two shots fired at him by Mohura's brother
Canakamora ; neither took effect. Mohura called
out to him to hunt him and kill him. His brother
however on seeing Isaac begin to cut the trousers off
his body felt sorry for him and permitted him to
escape. They said Isaac arrived after wandering for
three days at Kuruman late in the evening and came
to Mr. Moffat perfectly naked except a pair of shoes
on his feet ; he was afraid to approach the stations
durin~ the day lest the Bechuanas should kill him.
Kuras1e Qoete was killed with Cass Dryer by the
Damaras in a commando after leaving Griqualand.
In 18z.8 a sort of peace was concluded between
the Griquas and the Mountaineers. Another com-
mando approached from the Orange River on the
9 Augt. 182.8. They came to the Kuruman River
about 10 miles N.W. of this place (station). On the
morning of that day they murdered a number of
poor Bechuanas and in the evening they surrounded
two men and one woman who were coming to the
station with three pack oxen loaded with skills. The
two men and the woman they dragged out to one
side and despatched them with their knobsticks and
stones. A boy who was also in the company escaped
that night and gave us the information. In the
evening of next Clay (Sabbath) we learned that they
were approaching our station, upon which arrange-
ments were made and watches set. We had only,
including Bechuanas, twelve armed men, and of those
 ANDREW SMITH DIARY

dependence could only be placed upon two men.

[On] Monday morning the commando came in
sight, having advanced in the night to within l a
mile. Seeing the entrenchments full and that their
approach was evidently known, they had no alterna-
tive but to advance which they did with as much
sluggish pomp as they could devise.
I waited above in the entrenchments to watch
their movements, but chiefly with a view to prevent
the people firing upon them. I wished them not to
fire at all, but leave the commando to batter away
at the entrenchments till their ammunition should
be expended. When they came within gun shot they
marched off towards the river where they intercepted
a flock of goats belonging to the Batlarus of the station,
a flock of sheep belonging to Mr. Hamilton and a
few oxen. Three horsemen rode to the top of the
different hills to see if there was no more booty.
With the commando were a number of Bastards,
well dressed, near 40 guns, above 90 men and nine
horses. Mter consulting for nearly an hour they
despatched a man with a sort of old rag on a stick
to speak to me. I went towards him to prevent him
seeing the weakness of the station. From him I
learned that they were composed of Mountaineers
and Corannas, and that their object was to attack
the place for purposes of revenge.
Jantjie Hooyman 1 who was one of the chief of the
party wished me to send him a span of tobacco and
begged to have an interview. To this I consented.
He came and was soon joined by two more of the
1 Compaie Moffat, R., Missiotwy Labolirs lllfl/ S"111S ;,, SMllO.. Aj'riM,
London, 1842, p. '489·
 ANDREW SMITH DIARY

party. After stating that he was dumb with shame

being found with a party whose object was to attack
the station, he manU.factured some falsehoods with
a view to convince me that he had no part in the
matter; that Paul the chief of the Karosshebbers 1
was the head of the commando and that he for his
own part would rather defend than fight with me.
Whilst reasoning with him on the impropriety
of his conduct a wagon appeared on the road. I
immediately sent a man to bring the wagon forward,
for it had to pass the Corannas; he was taken prisoner,
and as the wagon came up they were inclined to stop
it. I requested Jantjie to go and save it, and that
by doing so he could best prove the sincerity of his
intentions. He did so and it proved to be Mr. and
Mrs. Archbald from Plattberg.1 Soon after I procured
an interview with Paul, the Coranna chief, who ap-
peared rather reluctant, and recognised him as an
old acquaintance in Namaqualand. After asking him
many questions and telling him much which touched
his conscience, for he had one and also some scriptural
knowledge, he declared that he had nothing against
me and that he would be the last man to do me harm.
We spoke of the attack upon the Baralongs in 1827,
and stated that whilst passing their part of the country
he was attacked by the Batclapins, etc., and that he
had now- come with the express purpose of seeking
revenge. i I wrought upon him by speaking to him
of the consequences of shedding so much innocent
1 The wtlllCtl of the katosa ; a clan of Kora.na.
• Rev. James Archbell, of the Wesleyan Misslooary Society. The Platl>erg
Station wu founded in 18z6. See BrO!ldbent, S., A Ntln'aliH of 1/J1 Pim
[,,lrol/wti1111 of Cbrl1liatlll.'J t11110fl&ll lill &ro/ong lr/bt of Buh1111""1, SOlllb Afrito,
tpndon, 1B6J, P· 11+
 ANDREW SMITH DIARY

blood, and told him if he would not desist I should

not resist with firearms but leave the punishment to
the Lord. Whilst addressing him in that way he
ordered a man to go and bring back the cattle, etc.,
and declared he would go no farther but return to
his friends on the Orange River.
Was afterwards informed by one of the Moun-
taineers that the reason why he was reluctant to
speak with me [was] that he was afraid I should
overcome all his resolutions to seek vengeance.
Though 4 times the strength of our shooters they were
so alarmed that they begged me to prevent any attack
being made on them in the ni~ht. All the cattle were
returned and they continued till Friday, in the mean-
time making us frequent visits beggin~ victuals,
tobacco, etc. The Coranna chief before leaving begged
me to give him a few pounds of tobacco as a token
that I still viewed him as a friend. He returned with
the majority of the commando. Three of the Moun-
taineers accompanied Mrs. Archbald to Barend's
place and about 12, chiefly of the latter, left about three
miles from the station and directed their course
towards the interior with the hope of getting a few
cattle. But doubtful, the natives driven to desperation
are now less afraid than at first.
A party of Corannas with their families possessin~
10 muskets passed this station for the purpose, 1t
is said, of settling at a short distance beyond. They
were reduced to starvation and had left several of
the number to perish in the desert. They had scarcely
set themselves down on the Maclareen River when
they mustered about 40 men, proceeded to old
Latakoo, and fell on a village ofMycries,1 who are
Sec note;oo pasc '6'.
 ANDREW SMITH DIARY

subject to Motebie. These villagers, though taken by

surprise, fell upon the Corannas with the courage of
lions, killed 30 and 10 only narrowly escaped by
flight.
CoRANN.A CIRCUYCISION.1

When a boy reaches about 1 s years he is taken by

the old people to a sort of kraal made for the'purpose.
Throw away all his old clothing but give him an
old one to wear during his stay. The old men then
urine on him whenever they require to do so. When
perfectly wet with it they strew his body all over with
powdered b11Ch11. In that place he remains till the
killing is over. If relatives rich, sometimes kill ten
oxen and ten hamels ; the flesh is cooked in that kraal;
neither women nor children can eat of it nor no
person who eats hares. No women nor children
can go near the place ; he must sleep in that kraal
and some old people sleep with him.. Then when
done a new kaross is placed upon him and he is
permitted to associate with the old men, then they
give him a jackal tail on a stick and a hassegay in
the hand, and in that way he goes out and wanders
about. They continue to practise this up to the present
day. [He] cannot marry before that but as soon after
as he will.
v With girls a house is built for the purpose and the
girl is placed in it, then smeared over with cowdung
and afterwards sprinkled with powdered buchu.
They kill then and the old women and the girl eat
of the meat ; the men also eat but the children cannot
1 Compare Maingard, L. F., in /Jemht Shttii1s, Johannesburg, 19,z, Vol. vi,,
No. 1, pp. 157-141,
 ANDREW SMITH DIARY 377
eat. Perhaps as in the case of the men it lasts for
eight days. Their karosses must be thrown away
that they wore before the ceremony ; when they go
out they get new karosses. After this cannot eat
hares. Then gets rings put on the wrists and in that
way makes her exit ; she then has the dress of an old
woman. 1 She can then marry, not before.
They have also a custom amongst the Corannas
and there is only one particular woman at the kraal
that has the power to order it to be observed ; when
she is in want of food she generally practises it. She
has a lar~e house made in the centre of the kraal and
when it 1s built there she sings a song and in it she
calls to such and such a man to come and sleep by
such and such a woman till she finds husbands for
all the women who are in the house. During the
ceremony which lasts for nearly eight days they kill ;
the old woman has the direction of that. Each man
must contribute something. They sleep all together
in that house. The young girls also go there and have
husbands, but to go is not forced upon them. When
Adam• was on his way from Phillipolis he slept at
Jan Bloom's place when that was going on. When the
men are called they must go whether willing or not.
The old woman selects the men ; those that are rich
are most certain to be called. When done all go to
their houses. Other persons cannot go to the b.ouse.
There were unmarried girls in the house at that time
when he was there, so girls are as much esteemed
after as before and as readily find husbands, even
supposing she has a child. After that is over the house
1 Of a grown woman, or adult.
1 Adam Kok.
 ANDREW SMITH DIA.B.r

is burnt. That often causes separations between

men and their wives.
When a Coranna wishes to marry he sends some
people with a few cattle and drives them in front of
the mother's house. If she is unwilling she gets up
and drives them away. If so they are brought back
next morning and if she still docs so then they desist.
If she does not drive them away then one is caught
and his throat cut, skinned and taken into the house
by the friends of the man ; he is himself not there,
and that being done they return home. The man then
goes to the house and is received. If the woman's
house is not ready she lives in her mother's house for
a time till ready, then goes into her own house.
According to the man's will they remain there, then
leave and go to the man's kraal. He cannot take away
the woman till she is payed for ; the payment is,
according to the wcaltli of the parents of the man,
from two to ten.1 Then the father of the woman
gives something back according to his wealth.
When a man dies the woman returns to her father
after everything being taken away from her by the
father of the man if he be alive or by the brothers if
he be dead.
Jan Bloom joined with Malitsani and attacked
Masalacatzie whilst he was living to the east of the
sources of the Vaal River ; this was about three
months before Mr. Moffat visited Masalacatzie.1
Malitsanie understood Masalacatzic's manner better
than Jan Bloom did; he got a division of the cattle
as soon as possible and then set off with his portion
 ANDREW SMITH DIARY 379
with all possible speed. Jan Bloom's movements
were more gradual and the consequence was he was
attacked and had them retaken. A youth, said to be
a son of Masalacatzie's, was taken and he told them
there was no chance of their being able to carry away
the cattle.
About six weeks before Jantjie Hooyman and Paul
attacked or threatened to attack Kuruman. Andries
Bloom with a Coranna commando arrived at the
station. Karse 1 who resided near Daniel's Kuyl,
and who was married to a sister of Bloom's, heard of
their intention of proceeding on a commando to the
interior and repaired with his wife to Kuruman to
endeavour to stop it. When the commando reached
the Matlaru River, Karse and Arend rode to it and
dissuaded them from the undertaking and got them
to tum back.
They came to Kuruman and remained behind the
Moffats' house for several days as friends, visiting in
every direction and begging tobacco. The sister of
Bloom got him on the side of the station and when he
saw that they felt an inclination to attack the station
he made his sister aware of it and abandoned them.
Many relatives of the woman were amongst the party
and she wrought hard to dissuade them from their
intention. She and her husband went back and for-
wards between the Moffats' house and their camp, and
so fearful was she that they would kill her husband
that in returning from the latter she always walked
behind him. During the time they were threatening
l Jan Kane, a Griqua, who left his farm at Kramerfontein to live at
Kuruman in order that his children might be educated. He was a brothcr-
.io-law of the Blooms. Sec MoHat, J. S., T/JI LWu ef RMlrl-' Mtll"J Mofftll,
London. illj, p. 144-
~Bo .ANDltE'W SllITR DIA.ltT

and carrying on the debate Bloom was in Mr. Moffat's

house fearing their vengeance for having seceded.
About four years' ago Jan Bloom let it be known
that he wished and intended visiting the missionaries
at the Kuruman, and on his arrival he stated his
intention of abstaining in future from commandoes
and now wished to live on terms of friendship with
the inhabitants. That he did from having attacked
them SOIJletime before and carried off a number of
their cattle. Mr. Moffat reasoned with him for
several hours regarding his previous life and brought
before him the fate of all such as had hitherto led a
life like his. He then asked him if it was not true;
he replied " H I did not believe it I would not be
so thoughtful to-day." He soon forgot his deter-
mination and continued making commandoes.
Class Dryer, when busily engaged in plundering
and murdering said to some of his companions " It
is all very well that I go on, taking cattle with you,"
but he knew what would be the cod of it.
Malitsani killed two men who were sent as mes-
sengers to him by Masalacatzie.
At a Coranna marriage whatever is asked by a
person arriving at the time must be sent after the
person, let the distance be what it may or the article
what it will.
South winds very cold in winter ; northerly winds
generally warm. This morning the wind which had
been southerly got round to the north. Still cold ;
ice the last two nights. People very active getting in
their tobacco.
They, the Corannas, often exchange wives for a
time. When a Cora.nna goes on a journey then his
 ANDREW SMITH DIARY

brother lives in the house and sleeps with the woman

till he returns, even though married ; if no brother
then the nephew or near relation must do that.
There are never disputes about the children ; all are
reckoned the regular husband's children. As a stranger
arrives and agrees with a man to exchange wives
when visiting, then he leaves his house and gives it
up to the stranger and vice versa. It was customary
when a man took his wife on a commando that he
hired her to another man and she lived with that man
so long as the commando was out ; perhaps eight or
ten oxen according to the success of the commando.
Polygamy exists amongst the Corannas. The Coranna
women have elongations of the nymprue like the real
Bushwomen. When a woman first menstruates
amongst the Corannas she stops in the house and
cattle are killed ; after done eating then she goes
out. A gun with a hair trigger is called after the name
of the penis of a man; one without it has the name of
the female organs.
A court once held at Jan Captain's to investigate
a case of fornication, the woman a widow ; case
proved; man sentenced to pay a cow and that was to
be delivered to the Captain to be kept by him till
the child was bom, then to be given to the woman to
support her and the child.
BARBND's COMMANDO.

Thinks there were three hundred Griquas and a

great number of Caffers with Malitsani, Towani and
Matclaba. The wagons and Barend remained on a
stream beyond Maquasse.1 The charge of the com-
1 The site of the Wesleyan Mission Station near Wolmaranstad. ·
 .ANDREW SMITH DIARY

mando then fell upon Gert Hooyman. Advanced five

days beyond the wagons; [this] was in June, 1830.
On a river which runs to the east was Pelanie,1 a
Buchuana chief ; that chief asked Barend to assist
him. The Bastards and Corannas and Griquas had
long before been in the habit of visiting diat chief
hunting in the country and exchanging, but after
Masalacatzie arrived he would not permit Pelanie to
trade in that way any more, and he therefore requested
assistance of Barend to get away Masalacatzie from
his territory. Barend was with Pelanie when he made
that request and Mr. Archbald went nearly so far and
separated to go to Masalacatzie. Barend after this
went to the country inhabited by Masalacatzie to
hunt. At this time Mr. Archbald was with Masala-
catzie.
One of the principal chiefs of Masalacatzie came to
Barend's wagons and requested beads from Barend,
saying if they were sent Masalacatzie would send oxen.
Never got the oxen but sent two teeth. Would not
take them because he wanted for each tooth a large
bag of beads ; he sent them back. Barend said he
cowd not give more beads ; he had already sent beads
and received nothing for them ; he must exchange
with the beads he had remaining. The one tooth was
for a bag of beads, the other for a gun. He sent also
an ox and a cow and for those a horse was asked.
Heard no more of M.; -went on hunting and then
returned home. Did not find Mr. Archbald again.
On return Barend submitted the request of Pelanie
to the Government and it ordained that he must have
assistance. A letter was then sent to Old Dam,1 who
1 Pilane, chief of the Kutla.
1 Adam Kok.
 ANDREW SMITH DIARY

first refused, but his councillors said " This is the

first time that Barend has asked assistance though he
has often assisted you ; why cannot you help him ? "
and on this Dam sent a commando [which] joined
Barend above on the Vaal River. When together
Barend explained to the people his intention which
was to drive Masalacatzie out of the land which he
had without right taken possession of, and if cattle
were taken they were to be given to the Buchuanas
who had lived and lost them. No person spoke against
that. When they had left the camp and Old Barend.,
the people of Dam, Haip and Adam Kreger appeared
dissatisfied with the arrangement that the cattle should
be given to the Bechuanas. [They] had again a meeting
and some of Barend's people stated the meaning of
the chief; then the commando became of one mind a
second time. On this side of the hill [they] took 2.
posts, on the other side one ; then the people began
to fly in all directions and the last day they took nearly
4'000 cattle. They [on] the last day surrounded a
number of women on a hill, and these women told
them after speaking some time that they had heard
that the commando of Masalacatzie was past and that
they must take care that night ; and about sunset
the commando of Barend's which was divided came
together, then moved a little homewards but did not
take the women.

The women told that two months ago the young

men were away to the Bamangwato ; that the old
men were only at home. The latter fought in the day,
the others in the night because they are weaker.
They said, " Those are the night fighters. Most are
at home, therefore you must take care they fight only
BB
 ANDREW SMITH DIARY

in the night. They are skelems 1 ; they fight not in

the day." Where they halted was an open level place
away from hills. After they got the cattle all together
the people formed round, then kindled fues and killed
. to eat. After that Gert Hooyman the chief came round
and asked some what they thought ; he, before any-
one answered, said "I expect the Caffers to-night."
Then said one of the Hemraad,1 Jan Pinnear,
"Answer, how shall the Caffers come ; the Caffers do
not fight, how then shall they come to night?" Nothi.pg
more was said and then they went to sleep, not one
placed to watch. The order of the chief Barend was
if they took cattle that they were to make fues round
them, and then the people to saddle up and leave the
place till daybreak, but that was disregarded. Just
before day as the moon was yet on the hill the Caffers
attacked them. One man saw the Caffers approaching
about 200 yards, called others, and just as they got
their shoes and jackets on and the guns in the hand the
Caffers rushed on. When they approached close they
began to scream and beat on their shields. The
Bechuanas were on one side and most of the Masala-
catzie Caffers ran upon them. When they saw that
they rushed in amongst the Griquas and created such
a confusion that not one knew what to do. Some
rushed so quickly by the others that they actually
forced the guns out of the hand.
About a year before Barcnd attacked Masalacau:ie,
a party of Griquas consisting of David Berghover,
Peter David, Frans Tot, Pict Jot, old Frans Jot, Jan
Karse and several others went on a hunting expedition
into the Baharootzie country and whilst the greater
1 Skclms, or rascals.
• Hcemraad, assessor to a Landclrost, or judge.
 .ANDREW !MITH t>IAR.T

part of the men were absent looking after elephants

a party of Bechuanas who were with them were cutting
up an elephant which had been shot. Six Matabcli
came to the spot and seized one of the Caffers, tied
him, and with him went to a Caffer village close at
hand. When the people of that village saw the Mata-
beli enter they fled and at the moment the Matabeli
killed one Buchuana and a woman. They said to the
man that was tied " You say you have no cattle,
and here are cattle spoors." He said, " They were the
spoors of the pack oxen belonging to the Bastards
who were here hunting, and had been to get the flesh
and teeth to convey them to the wagons." They told
the man he must show where they were, and in going
towards the place he got off from them and ran to
the wagons.
Four men and old Jot were by the wagons and when
they looked they saw the Matabeli driving off their
oxen and horses, 4. Two had remained in the village.
One of the two went after and when he approached
fired a shot gun, got out of order, returned to wagons
to get the other which was there, went off with it and
fired again [and] missed. The Caffers then turned upon
him and pursued him to the wagons but he rode past
the wagons. The four came to the hinder wheels of
the wagon and David, who was one of the two, and
old Jot, stood by the dissclboom.1 There were about
100 Bechuanas with them. David called to the other
man to bring the gun. At last [he] came, fired the
shot but missed, had only two shots remaining; loaded,
and being a melder 1 and he not knowins it, as he was
using [it] the second time it went off without hurting
1 Shaft.
• Mildc, Middle Du.tch for " aof't." A "soft bullet" is probably meant.
 ANDllBW SMITH DIAllT

the Caffers. They retired a little. The Bechuanas

threw at them but they turned off the hassegays with
their shields. The people who had fled from the
village ran to the liunters and told them. They
instantly repaired to the wagons, and whilst David
was loading his last time they approached and im-
mediately shot the four Matabeli. The latter did not
fly but stood prepared to fight. They next morning
prepared all and feft for their homes ; after killing the
Caffers they got their cattle again.
After this time they were on a hunting party by
the same place and the oxen during a heavy rain
strayed and divided into two portions. One went off
to a Bechuana kraal, the other to a kraal where there
were also Bechuanas and one Matabcli. Both kraals
contained Masalacatzie's cattle. David went on
one spoor and two men on the other. David reached
the Bcchuana village where no Matabeli was and got
the cattle. The others could not get the cattle from
the Matabcli but returned about daybreak. Barend,
who was with the party, desired four men to go back
and explain that the cattle had sttaycd during the rain
and ask for them. If he would not give them they
must take them. The Matabeli refused. They then
took them. A cow was wanting and that cow they saw
with the oxen the day before. The Matabeli on being
asked about the cow said he did not know anything
concerning a cow. Jan David was the owner of the
cow and he was opposed to permitting him to remain.
Barcnd said " We are now without powder and lead
and a long way in Masalacatzie's country; if we do
anything we may get worsted, therefore we must
remain quiet and return home." They did so. This
was always the country to which the Griquas went
 ANDREW SMITH DIARY

formerly to hunt and barter with the natives. Gert

Hooyman, Jantjie Hooyman and Hans Hooyman were
killed by Masalacatzie's people. The oldest son of
Peter David was also killed, also Jan David, also Jan
Pinncar and Valtyn . . .,1 Hcmraaden of Barcnd'.
2 3 APR.IL (THUllSDAY).

When a chief of a vanquished tribe solicits permis-

sion to reside under the 1b~tcction of another chief or
to join him it is with ard he leaves and [it is]
always impossible to get off his cattle.1 Mokatla some
time ago sent a messa$e to Mohura that as soon as the
corn was reaped he intended to come and live near
to him. Mohura in return said he must not do that
as he intended leaving Kuruman and proceeding to
him. This occurred soon after the news was heard
concerning Waterbocr's power and which was re-
ported to be so great as to warrant him in interfering
with Latakoo an<.i its inhabitants.
14 APRIL (PR.ID.AT).

Purchased 20 sheep from a Griqua belonging to

Barend. He is one of them who remained behirid at
Bootschap, and who with the others is about to leave
in consequence of the reports concerning the powers
of Waterboer. Those who have been living at Daniel's
Kuyl are also preparing to start, and all appear dis-
satisfied with the reported new arrangements. One
man, David Berghover, a veld comet of Barcnd's who
has ever since their departure from Bootschap been
resident at the Kuyl, intends remaining there till
l Name cannot be decipheied.
1 To eake hie cattle back witb hint.
 ANDREW SMITH DIAllY

Barend returns from Namaqualand, and if he be dis-

posed to cede his right to that place, then he will
leave with him. When the commandoes attacked the
Batclapins, Batlaru and others to the westwards of
Kuruman, the. Bushmen were on the alert as they
returned and generally by cunning or open attacks
came in for a share. Waterbocr used to catch such
Bushmen as stole from his people, and caused them
to work in irons about the village ; they for a long
· time have not stolen from him .
.1, APllIL (SATUllD.AY).

26 APP.IL (SUNDAY).1

17 .APP.IL (MONDAY).

[The] Lehoya 1 left Nokaning a for Takoon and

then they went to Town.' From thence they Hed
towards the Vaal River. Tauianes,11 then the king of
all the Baralong. Batclapin and Lehoya at that time
cannot cross water when any of his family is sick.
Batlaru arc Baharootzie; lived[?] on the outskirts of the
Batclapins. A tribute the breast of all game, particularly
elands, etc. Perhaps may grant permission to separate.
After his commandocs approach they make it known
by sending men round.•
l No enuiea for these two days.
1 Ligoya, the earlicet of the Sotho uibcs to go south. No ttacc of them
remains to-day.
1 Nolr:uoing, about twenty miles north-cast of Takoon. The modem
Klein Chowiiig is the spot.
'Taunga.
1 Tawanc.
1 l (UIJlOt make sense: of this paugie.
 ANDREW SMITH DIAllY

April Morana
May MotJihan11
June Lieta Base11gh
July Pllki
August Pahl
September Poan
October Cerematllli
November Pa/an
December Q11anatJa/i
Tanuary Hiri&ong
February Lera111attdi
March Clahda1
[March] MopifJllll
East BoclabatJatJi 1 Forcday Gamakak.tl
West Boplf'O matJatJi Sunrise Ga11111sho
North HtlljlltJni Midday Matsihari
South Borua Halfunder Molibila
Sunset Liperimili
Dusk LOklakla11
Dark Mabancani
Midnight BoJego hari 1
1 Thcac lists of words, in Brown's onhography, arc u follows :
bollhtlbosa11/, bophirl1111111al1i, bohvmi, borwrl, •ahihl, J:JJ -1bo, -llhlgtttY,
f110/1b1/a, phirllfl/U, fll~tllll, bo1/gogare, /ol//Jal/bana.
1 Owing to the fact that the Tswana reckon by moons Smith has thirteen
entries. It will he noticed that, having got as far as March, he repeated that
word for the thirteenth moon, and afterwards drew his pen through it ;
I have put square brackets round the deleted word . .Also, since the moons
change, the Setswana names as given by Smith do not tally in every instance
with those given by Brown in his Dictionary ; I therefore give Smith's list
jn Brown's onhography, slightly modified by Doke.
MortlMllg, 1110l1igammg, 11111bo1igo, phlll:wi, phatM, potlll#, 11Ji1110lhlll1111
pbohM, tl!JPlllllllll, hlrily,ong, IWlllOlhlliM, 11/Jd:JJ/I, lllOpilW.
The twelve months according to Brown and beginning with April u ill
Smith's list are :
Mort1111111g, molJigatUJflg, mltboligo, phlll:wi, pbolM, J>oarll, pha/tllll, "l"""l11u
1N/it1101hM11111, htriJrpz, 11/JahJU, l/l()p;1m,
 ANDREW SMITH DI.ART

fThey] cat the blood of animals ; boil it in a pot

and mix fat with it. Mix salt in the medicine the doctor
makes to obtain rain; say the salt calls the rain. There
is a snake that is found in water which they kill
and use in making rain. When .they will catch him
they rub medicine on a branch and hold it before
him [so] that he licks it in order to tame him, then
catch him, fix him in the kaross, carry him home.
Kill him and take the fat out, melt it and pour it in
the medicine. Asking him why he did not kill it by
the water he said the • • . 1 has always been opposed
to that. Many believe in dreams ; part do not be-
lieve in them.
& they kill the guana in summer it will not rain ;
as they kill it in winter they burn it in order that it
must rain. Baboons' and nuni boks'• bones are {'icked
up to make rain and [they] burn them; also pick up
tlie bones of the secretary [bird], and when done
burning take up the ashes and place it after the house
within the fence.
When a person is sick in a house they fix a stick
before the door ; if men go in the sick person dies.
They do not destroy cripples or deformed people.
When a person goes deranged they endeavour to cure
him; if they cannot they leave him to his fate.
The Kuruman was always an unhealthy place for
cattle; tp1t11.1ie was always in the country. Use noth-
ing for cattle ; sprinkle medicine from bushes, etc.,
upon the disease in men. Small pox has been thrice
in the land, once about 80 years ago, a second time
l The word cannot be deciphered, though in general appearance it looks
like cc bod ...
_ • N1111,!or. ~.of the Tawana ; the ~ho~.
 ANDR~ SMITH DIAllY

about 3s or 40 years ago, and the last time about

4 years ago.
MANTATEES.

Matuan 1 put them to flight from their countty,

Karahari, Cobiniani, Moquatsi, Tsitaki, Lidogua.
Ceturi, Mohapi the great chief; they were all of the
same nation. They were called Batlathlaquan and also
Bahole. They had shields like the Ma:tabcli which
they made during their flight, but their own shields
were like the Mantatees. The waters near which they
lived ran to the westward and discharged themselves
into the Liqua.1
[They] make their karosses black by rubbing them
with fat and charcoal. Formerly they used to make
their makabis 8 of flowers which grew in one of the
rivers ; now since they have left their country they
use the Batclapin ma&abi.'
They first fought with the Matabeli and upon
being conquered by them they fled and all the tribes
they approached fled. Another chief was Maklarl.
The order of their king was to catch and take the
cattle, not to kill people. They knew nothing of horses
and guns ; when they saw the men on horse-back
they thought they were elephants. Men that they had
caught on the road told them that they must lie down
and the balls would miss them. Mulitsani 1 was
chief of the Mackari. They had the same dress as the
l Matiwane, a powcrl'ul Zulu chief who had Bed from Tahaka.
• Vaal.
• MMabi, akin petticoat of Ts'IV'IQA 'WOmCD.
'lbii.
·~.
 ANDREW SMITH DIARY

Mantatees. They lived upon a river which also ran

into the Liqua. Chaka 1 drove the Mackari.
On the 8th Augt. 1818, first rain that spring, thunder
and lightening.
Women cry much when they think a captain is
dying.
Matebe 1 would not plant Indian corn because it
was, they said, medicine ; but the king said he would
eat of it if we planted it for them.
Rain-makers wash the dishes sometimes with
medicine ; also sometimes call all the people to go to
the river to be washed with medicine to make rain.
Rub their limbs also with some bulbs for the same
purpose. Once the rain-maker said he could not make
rain, that the rain was buried with an old man, and
that he must be taken up and washed. [This was]
agreed to and done though he had been buried for a
month or six weeks. His name was Marupolo, which
means clouds of rain. The rain-maker afso said that
the hom with which they called the people to church
had blown the rain awaY' ; so long as they called
" A kirk koo " 1 they had rain, but now since they
used the tin hom they had none. [He] said to the
people they must get a baboon without dogs and
skin it alive, and then he could give rain. [He] told
them once that they must go and sleep without their
wives for the night and then they would get rain.
Another time [he] told them when he could not get
rain that they must go and take an owl alive ; tliey
promised to go. Feb. 28, 1819. A slave arrived at
Kuruman.
a Tahaka.
J Mothibi, the 'nhaping chief.
• JCom ketk-~ come to c:hurcb.
 ANDll.BW SMITH DI.A.B.Y 39J
A meteor once appeared at Kuruman whilst they
were dancing; [they] left off and cried terribly and
fled to their houses.
Graves 3 feet diameter, s or 6 deep. [They] some-
times place pieces of ants' nest about the feet of the
deceased when the earth [is] up to mouth. They put a
small thom branch and roots made round upon the
head. Men engaged in burying have water brought
in a bowl mixed with roots, wash their hands, also
put a little on the upper parts of feet, then the women
do the same. They then called out for rain. The
women leave the grave crying when the ceremony ia
ended and after the water is thrown over the grave.
When they perform the latter they call for rain. Was
buried under the hedge of his own cattle kraal then
made up again.1
Berghaners were troublesome in 1817. Jacob
Ooete was then on Hart River and threatening
Griqua Town.
[In] 1820, 18 July, first thunder and rain. [On] 24
May, finished a church at Lower Kuruman.
In the month of Augt. 1820, Griquas went after
Buys at the request of Stockenstrom. [On] 24 Septr.,
1820, Mr. Moffat arrived from Griqua Town.
The son of Class Borne who murdered Barend's
daughter was hung at Daniel's Kuyl near Griqua
Town in the year 1820.
Sheep sent to meet a rain-maker at river; he washed
its feet then its body then his own feet, then took it in-
to the town and killed it. Ordered one day no women
to dig, no men to cut a single bush nor ~ss to thatch
the houses, for if they did the lighterung that came
l /.1. the hcdje.
 ANDREW SMI'I'H DIARY

with the rain would come to their houses and kill

them. Send a whip [to] drive the clouds away; also
washing white clothes. Once went up to the top of
the hills and rolled a stone down to produce rain.
Once Mr. R[cad] went to Matebe's son who was
sick. John Hendrick could not enter because he was
unclean, his child having died a few days before, and
Mr. Read because his clilld had no teeth.
Contrary to their laws to go for blink klip 1 before
harvest. Must not touch ivory whilst the corn is
growing ; if so must take up some ashes in the fingers.
A person killed by lightening must not be buried,
as it will stop the rain. Was asked to permit her to
be buried by the missionaries ; gave it but went first
thro' many ceremonies. The rain-maker and many
men washed her body with water, ordered no women
to work the day after, no bushes to be cut and said
the clouds must be given medicine or else they would
kill more people.
The king must bite the leaf of the water melon
before the people can eat them ; if before that thc1
think they would die and they arc also punished if 1t
be known.
The first preparation for circumcision begins by
making the boys lie on the ground and they beat
them with a branch of a bush. They must not cry.
The day the boys were to return the men of the town
went to their houses which were about half a mile
from the town, and when they approached the town
most of the people went out to meet them. The women
were desired to keep at a distance. A wand was stuck
• $"11/o, or grey ore spulding with mic;a,
 .ANDREW SMITH DIARY

in the ground at about the distance of half a mile.

All the boys ran off to it to see who could get first
to it ; he was the most honourable. Then they all
ran off towards the mountains and we saw no more of
them for that day. In the evening the men and women
went round the town with burning torches. Every
day after they are a little recovered they take them to
hunt hares, etc. That day the boys set fire to their
house, the men having previously taken out the poles.
They were then marched by [the] men to the town,
and taken to the king's kraal where they remained
all night. The next morning they were carried to the
field and each division of boys was told off to the
cattle of that division. At night they came home
amongst the cattle and this ended the ceremony.
At the end of the ceremony of circumcision of
girls [they] brought an earth figure like a human
body with beads round the neck and presented it
before the girls in a bowl, but it had a head like a
bird .z feet high. One old woman danced round it
but said nothing. The girls were all there in full
dress dancing.
Matebe, after recovery from sickness, was cleansed.
He was stript naked. An ox on which no man had
rode had its feet made fast ; a board in the form of a
cross was placed on its back and he was placed on it.
A large bOwl of water was poured upon his head and
then another was brought and the ox's nose held in
it till it died.
This year the Buchuanas had been engaged cutting
a tree to burn it in order that it might not stop the
rain ; it had been struck by lightening. The year
before they rubbed it with bulbs, etc.
 ANDP.EW SMITH DIAB.Y

Did not formerly buty people who died of the

blood sickness.
Matebe at a general meeting about rain once said
that the want of rain arose from the women going to
the fields to dig without coming to him so that he
might order who should go. [He] told his brother
Malala that he was accused of witchcraft, that he must
go to the town and inquire about it, then take all the
men, women and children to the river and have
them washed so that the rain might come. Once
Matebe sent word to Mr. Hamilton that the lightening
had struck in the missionary grounds and that he
might send a sheep or a few beads to the rain-maker
which he would offer to God as he was angry .

.z8 APlUL (TUl!SD.AY).

Batsatsing the correct name of Botamaha, same

family as the Batclapin; they were [a] portion of the
tribe which emigrated eastwards. The chief Dibi
Makosi lived near where Griqua Town now stands.
During his time they left in consequence of wars
with the Corannas, etc. They went to live near
Mokaring.1 Lehoya formerly lived near or at
Nokaning. 1 The Batclapins also at one time lived there.

.z9 APP.IL (WEDNESDAY).

Preparing despatches for the Colony. Two men

started with them for Griqua Town about 8 p.m. ~
1 Posaibly by the Madowing River.
1 Nokuniog, about twenty miles north-cast of Takooo, or old Lithako.
 ANDREW SMITH DI.ARY 391
30 APRIL (THUllSDAY).

About 9 a.m. started for Motito. Reached Matluari

River about 4 p.m. At dusk inspanned and proceeded
about two hours, then halted for the night. Part of
the road sandy. One sheep died suddenly. Left 18
and four young oxen at a kraal on the Matluari River
to rest for a day. Hot during the day ; very cold
during the night.
I MAY (FRIDAY).

Reached Motito about 3 p.m. Very warm from

eleven till 3. One of the percussion guns was dis-
charged by accident and nearly shot Minton. 1 The
ball just grazed his back about the loins.

1 MAY (SATUllDAY).

The female initiation is called in Sechuana boyall.•

Round the middle a sort of kilt formed of reeds cut
in pieces about i of an inch long strung upon strings
and hang from the waist to within a coul'lc of inches of
the knees. Between each piece of reed 1s included one
of the seeds of the magatan,1 or wild water melon.
In front of the head over the eyes is fixed a shade
composed of small rushes placed alongside of each
other and fixed by means of threads passed through
them in the same way as mats are made. The rush.cs
arc placed vertically and the shade is about four inches
in length. Attached to the string which retains the
1 John Mintem, Smith's ecrvant.
• Initiation ccremooy at age of puberty.
• Thia may be connected 'With fllflgajl#, a melon.
 ANDREW SMITH DIARY

shade in its position is a number of pieces of the

feet of jackals which partly hang down in front and
partly behind over the bands which cross the body
and shoulders. The latter rise to a great height in
front and behind where the two series cross each
other. When they dance the last day the contents of
the stomach are taken up by the girls who have gone
through the ceremony and strewed over the ground
where they are to dance. A sort of image is brought
to the place ornamented with all descriptions of beads,
and that is carried by several women who till it is
properly placed surround it, then it is exposed and the
men must go and look what a fine thing they can make.
On the same occasion a woman is often dressed in
grass over [the] eyes, etc., and she is led to the dancing
place where she 1s left and all make game of her.
Once when the wind blew for a long time from the
Kuruman, Masalacatzie said that was good ; he knew
by that that no commandoes were coming from that
direction.
The circumcision of the boys is called bogwera.1
For labour they say be/ega,1 for the birth of sheep,
etc., Isa/a;• tsatla,• yellow, envious. When one of
the girls misbehaves in any way the whole arc punished.
Should a portion of reed be broken off tlieir dress
when dancing they are taken to the cattle kraal and
flogged throughout.
3 MAY (SUNDAY).1

1 Bogrwra•
• Labour in childbirth.
• To beget, or give birth to.
' Tsbltllitl, yellow.
' No entry for this date.
 ANDllEW WITH DlAllT 399
4 MAY (MONDAY).

It having been reported to me that Hendrick

Whiteboy, Cape Corps, had been making use of
language of a very improper description and that in
the hearing of several of the party, I sent for them to
be informed of the nature of his remarks. Jeremias
from Gnadenthal first questioned. "I and Ismael were
sitting together with Hendrick Whiteboy in our tent
when Besuidenhout came in and I asked him where
he had been. He said he had been over to the Caffer
kraal to get milk and had heard that Mohura's cattle
would come here as he was going to move in conse-
quence of having got the name of being a thief and
having stolen Masalacatzie's cattle. Tllen Hendrick
said h.e wished Mohura had as much understanding
as he had to bring a commando on us in the night and
kill us even if he was there also and must die, but he
would see to escape. If he had so much power as
Mohura he would know how to make the com-
mando ready and bring it on us. He said the man
(meaning Mohura) was stupid but God would give
him the power to do that. He said that he was always
a murderer in [his] own land and to-day he was yet
not a peaceably disposed man."
Upon hearing that and considering it in conjunc-
tion with many other acts of his which had previously
come to my knowledge, I sent for him and desired
him to get ready ; that I intended sending him back
to the Colony. He remarked when going from my
wagon to the fire place that he was glad that he was
now going back and that he was free from the party.
Hendrick said that when we passed Mohura's place on
our way to Masalacatzie we should see him no more.
cc
 ANDREW SMITH DIARY

He spoke in a composed manner relative to his visit

to Mohura and said we shall yet hear about the subject.
There was only Botha with him therefore reason to
fancy Botha was concerned in the matter. Botha .•. 1
BoYALE. DRESs, SEE .. . BoYALE GIRLS.'

The ceremony is performed during the months of

April and May. If the queen has a daughter to be
circumcised she tells all the women that there will be
a circumcision, then the girls are all brought together.
A house is taken, generally one of the J>Oor, and they
are forced to leave it and the girls live ID it altogether
for the time. Each chief has such a ceremony. After
[they are] brought together then one woman is the
head and she prepares their food. It must be a widow.
It does not matter what they eat. The chief's daughter
must first eat, then the rest. The woman who has
charge of them can eat of that food but nobody else.
The father of one girl gives a sheep, another an ox, a
friend an ox, etc., to the woman to be used. Begin to
wear the dress on the fourth day. They go every day
to bring wood and the woman in charge beats them
severely. The wood is for their own use ; they bring
water also for their own use. They: cannot go alone
to bring water. They get out of the way of men.
The branch is to beat the boy that may come in the way.
They are smeared with white clay from the first day.
They dance during the time at the king's kraal, but
when they have returned home they cannot mix with
men or boys. Every third day they remain without
dancing. Everydaytheydance and thewoman dressed
1 Nothing follows the name.
1 Thua in MS.: probably .. see <hawing of." Compare Plate 50.
 AND~ SMI'I'H DI.ARY

in rushes is always there ; she stands amongst the

men, who make game of her. She must be a widow;
it is the custom. When the time is over they go to
the river, wash the white clay off and smear [them-
selves] with fat and red clay, cut the hair according
to the fashion and rub it with black clay. In that day
all the peo.Ple come together and dance and make
merry. It 1s against the law to allow them to sleep
during the time. It lasts for about a month. She tells
them of the pains of child bed, etc. An ornamented
figure adorned with beads and made of wood is pro-
duced in a bowl for all to see. They say it is the god
of the boyall.
Early in August 1832 the town of Towani, a Bara-
long chief, was attacked by the Matabeli. It was situated
on the other side of Sitlakole 1 at a place called Ku-
nuana.1 The attack was made in consequence of
many of Towani's people, amongst others his son,
having joined Barend in the commando of 1831. The
report of a commando of the Matabeli being about
to proceed to attack Towani, and on their way back
to take all the youths of the Baharootzie, was brought
to the latter by one of the Matabeli, which caused
them all to fly immediately.
The town of Towani was situated near the point of
a hill, and a town of Bawankets was very near to it.
The intention of the commando was to attack in the
night but it being so very cold they waited for day
concealing themsclves at a distance. It came in sight
of the town about 11 a.m., and when near it it was
divided into three portions ; one continued in the
1 Setlagoli. See map.
• Kunaoa, fifty-seven miJca due north of Schweizer Rmekc. See map.
402 ANDREW SMITH DIARY

middle to intercept the cattle. A wing was despatched

round the north of the hill to catch those who took to
flight and the right wing was destined to encircle the
Bawankets and join the left. The latter, however,
made too shatp a tum and in that way did not accom-
plish its object, whereby the Bawankets had time to
escape, and they had orders that if they fled along the
Kuruman road the commando was not to follow
them. Happily for them they took that direction and
escaped. The left wing caught the Baralongs flying
and killed without mercy men, women, children,
old men, etc. Two days afterwards some Bechuanas
passed and saw mothers dead with children sucking
their breasts but they left them there. The Matabeli
burnt all the houses, threw the corn together into
heaps, and put dead bodies above it. . At this kraal
they continued the remainder of the day and all the
night making merry. Towani had ten wives and
all of them, it is supposed, were killed.
Towani despatched a man to tell Mohura of his
misfortunes, and to ask permission to retire and live
with him. Kanakamora,1 either before or after the
man arrived, went off in the direction in which
Towani's cattle were retiring and came up to them
attended by Towani's son and the herds. He went
to the son, talked .with him in a friendly way, then
shook hands with him [and] mounted his horse as
if going away. Soon, however, [he] began to make
his people surround the cattle to take them. The son
of Towani seeing that ran away, but as he could
not fly quickly, having a quantity of ammunition with
him, he was soon overtaken by the Batclapin who
pursued, and was then killed.
1 Brother of Mahura.
 ANDREW SMITH DIARY

When Mr. Lemu 1 was returning from the

Baharootzie he halted for 8 days at Towani's town and
experienced the most friendly treatment from the
son of Towani. Whilst there he lost a cat which he
had with him, and soon after leaving, that son dis-
covered it and sent a man after Mr. L. with it a con-
siderable distance. Mr. Lemu recommended Towani
to move back with his cattle towards Litakoon and
was consequently very sorry to hear of what had
happened to his son. When he saw Towani he satisfied
him that it was not in his ~wer to prevent the
occurrence. When he fell in with Towani he looked a
most wretched being; his beard was long, which is
generally the case when they are flying, travelling, or
suffering from misfortunes. The Baharootzie fled
immediately on hearing of the intended commando.
Messrs. Lemu, Rolland and Pellisier left Kuruman
for the Baharootzie country on the 17 February and
reached Mosegha 1 on the 11 March 18 31. They left
. it on the 2. June of the same year. In conversation with
Dr. Phillip at Kuruman, the latter proposed to collect
the Baharootzie and place them at Daniel's Kuyl. He
advised Mr. Lemu to accompany him to Griqua Town
and get Mohura also to go. All was arraiiged but
something prevented Mohura going. Dr. P., Mr. L.,
and Waterboer agreed that Daniel's Kuyl should be
the station, and Mr. L. returned with the intention of
proceeding to collect them. Before he left for that
purpose he got a letter from Dr. Phillip from the
hanCls of Mohura who had returned from Griqua
Town, saying that he had agreed to the plan. When
Mr. L. was starting, he got a message from Mohura
1 M011Cp, where Zendclins'• Poet is kH:lay, near Zecruat.
 ANDREW SMITH DIARY

to say that he must not go ; he wished to see him.

Mr. L. sent him word that his wishing to see him was
nothing ; he would go and go he did. When Mus-
huara t the brother of Malala, a Baralong chief, heard
Mr. L. was going, he said Mokatla was an old friend
of his and therefore he would accompany him to
assist him in getting them to remove.
After travelling some days in an easterly direction
they found Mokatla with the remains of his people
near a small bush of Mimosa trees and upon stattng
to him the plan he appeared at first rejoiced but after-
wards scruples arose, and he said he must have time
to reflect and consult his people. Next day he appeared
unwilling to go, but Moiloway,• a young cliief and
nephew of Mokatla, was anxious for the removal so
that Mokatla at last consented and they began to get
ready for the march.
They started, and on reaching Hart River, the resi-
dence of a party of Coranna, some delays took place and
Mushuara, who had received a message in the interim
from Mahura, got very angry; declared that they, the
missionaries, had deceived him, and was determined
to return to Letako. Mokatla determined to go no
farther and there Mr. L. left him and his people and
repaired to Motito where he established himself on the
12.th Nov., 1832. A number of Baharootzie followed
them and placed themselves at Motito. Mahura
offered no objections but even promised that he would
himself live at Motito. He has never done so.

1 Mothlware.
• Moiloa. Sec Cunpbcll, J., Trd111ls in SMl/J A/rkll (SccondJoumey),
London, 18aa, Vol. i. p. aao II llf·
 .ANDREW SMITH DIARY

Motibe take care of him.

Mahura fat.
Malala poor.
Bogosi kingdom.
Techoe mocked at.
Mamorati beloved of his mother.1
The eldest son of Mahura was called Bogosi by his
mother who was a very proud woman. When they
were about to fly and leave their country all the women
laughed at the queen for having given the name of
kingdom to her son, and when she had a daughter
she called her Techoe, that is, mock'd at.

j MAY (TUESDAY).

Mokatla [is] about 60 years of age. When he was

born his father lived at Sitabing,1 two days on this
side of the Molopo. Towani was born at Sitlaholi.
Moleta 1 was the King of the Bawankets in those days;
Macaba' was young at that time. They then lived
a long distance beyond the Molopo, but afterwards
emigrated to the Molopo. A commando of the
Baquana drove them away from the country near the
Bamangwato. When Macaba got chief he returned
back to his own country, and some time after Malala
with his people went to him and lived with him
some time, then left him and returned back to his old
country.
1 With the exception of the fifth, which I have not been able to check.
the meanings of these names arc substantially concct. The proper spelling
of the five which arc accessible would be : Mothibc ; Mahura; Molala j
Bogosi; Mamon.ti.
• Setabcn, about u miles north of Kuruman.
1 Melita, a former chief of the Ngwakctse.
• Makaba, chief of the Ngwakctle.
 ANDREW SMI'l'H DIARY

The position of the ;Bawankets was to the north of

the Baliarutse, and there was a mountain called Kan 1
between them and the Baquana. The Baquana had the
same dress as the Bechuana ; they were a portion of
the Bawankets. The chief of the Baquana was
Muchacieli.1 Melite and Muchacele were two brothers ;
the :first was the oldest. They fought about cattle ; the
Baquana drove them to the Molopo. When the
Bawankets returned, they again fought with the
Baquana till the Matabeli came who drove them in
separate bodies in various directions.
Cowan's • party passed Malala at Molopo, then
went to the Bawankets, then to the Baquana, after-
wards to 'the Bamangwato, and then came to a large
rivet and in attempting to cross they were all drowned
in the river. There is a tti~ living beyond the River
Mahalatcela,' who said they were drowned in the
rivet when Malala was young.
Mashe 1 was chief of the Batclapin and lived at
Nokuning towards Blink Klip. The Batlaru then lived
• Matlakhari Hill, near Atteeia Railway Station, in the Bechuanaland
Protectorate.
• Motshwascle, chief of the Kwem.. Compare also Livingstone, D.,
Mi.r.sionary T,.a11t/s llllll Rts111Ttbu;,, So#lb Afrita, London, IBJ7, p. 141 wheie
the same chief gives similar information.
• The expedition of Dr. Cowan and Lieut. Donovan, which set out in
October, 1808 to explore the country between Lithako and the Portuguete
province of Mozambique. They were known to have reached the Ngwaketse,
who were living near Kanye, but &om that point all trace of them wu lost.
Theal, G. M., History of So#lh A/rial (1854-1854), London, 1888, Vol. ill,
pp. 140-141. Smith's expedition wu specifically asked to find out what
had happelied to them, since previous travellers, including Burchell and
~beII, had failed to obtain satisfactory information from the native
• See /1U1nttlitltu /w t/Jt EKjlli/ilitltl itllo Cmlral AjrW, Cape Town,
1834, P· ~
6 Poasi the Mhalapshwc River, which rune put Mahalapye Railway
Station an joins the Limpopo.
1 Maahwe.
 ANDREW SMITH DIARY

by Langeberg. Taue 1 lived at Takoon before Malala

was bom. Ratclo 1 first lived on Hart River, then
moved to Letako, then to Sitlaholi, and there died of
small pox.
There were no Corannas in that time in the Hart
River; they were all below Griqua Town. The
Baralongs fought with the Batclapin, and the latter
went to reside towards the Orange River. That was
before he was bom; they lived together before they
fought. They both lived together at Letakoon.
Corannas always lived on the Black River and Bushmen
were mixed with them. Batclapin lived on the other
side of the Vaal River.
The Lehoya used to live towards Thaba'unchu.
The Bakalahari first lived at Molopo, then fled into the
desert. Their chief [was] Maluali; they were poor Bara-
longs. Ratsipip 8 was a Matabeli, and came originally
from Dingan's country. Towan and Kama were the
two chiefs of the Bamangwato and fought together ;
Towan fled. His people were called Mampuru.' There
are also a tribe residing near by the lake called
Makoba ' who live upon corn and fish. Towane's
Baralong men were called Boratiri, Mochuara's people
Baraclu, Sibinel's people Bamakop.•
6 MAY (WEDNESDAY).

The Baralongs with Malala took the same road in

going in to the Kalahari that they followed in coming
1 Tau, chief of the Rolong.
1 Ratbou, chief of a branch of the Rolon,$·
• Rathsibl; he waa, however, a Tswana chief.
' Possibly Mamphoro.
' Makobia. Conit>ln: Chapman. J., Tt'IM/1;,, 11N lt11trit1r of SOlll/J A/rl&ll,
London, 1868, Vo[ i, p. 168.
• Branches of the llolong.
 ANDREW SMITH DIARY

out. They got scarcely any water, a little at Maubil 1

(for people eat only the bitter apple), a put on this side
of Lehutitun. By Maubil tliere are several small
hills ; by Lehutitun the water is large and there are
four springs. There were only poor Caffcrs first. The
Baquana were there when he arrived. He fought
with them and drove them away to their own country,
then the Wankets came. They fought [and] drove the
Wankets, but afterwards removed. 6 men died during
the flight, [and] two women and two children ; a
great number of cattle died in crossing.

7 MAY (THURSDAY).

The Baralongs call their principal chief k.o.ri 1 ;

some call him king, some father. When they killed
an elephant one tusk was always sent to the king.
When they kill an elephant they cut off a foot and
the front of the trunk and bury the latter. The foot
they cat. Send portion of game to the king. Eland,
camel, buffalo, and rhenoster they send the breast to the
king. When a commando is out and brings cattle, the
king takes as many as he wishes and gives them the
rest. A man can marry two sisters. The number of
commandoes, etc., destroys many of the men, therefore
always a surplus of women. Malala says when travel-
ling people lend him their wives. The Bawankets and
the Baquana take each other by the nose to make
friends, then those must give of their property to
each other. If a man who has taken a person by the
nose has a wife and the man whose nose he has pulled
goes by her the man must not be angry. It is the way
I Maubel Hill. See page ,o6.
I Xp/.
 ANDREW SMITH DI.ARY

to cement a friendship by lending wives to each other.

Last night a very heavy thunderstorm and much rain.

8 MAY (PllIDAY).

Malala says that in old times when men or cattle

died they said it was God that killed them ; they
thought he lived under the ground. They are afraid
to pass graves but they seem to have no notion that
they can be injured by the dead, only they have a
dread [of] and antipathy to a corpse.
Says there is a fiat rock in the Baharutsie country.
All the nations came out there ; all animals came out
and Bushmen also. They always speak of Bushmen
apart from men and animals, generally speaking of men,
cattle, and Bushmen. Says the Bushmen were always
bad people. They were bad people when they first
came out of the ~round. In every district there are
a sort of poor natives which approach to the character
of the Bushman near the Colony.
The persons who have been engaged in burying a
dead bOdy must wash the whole body. It is only
when men die during rainy weather that they throw
water on the grave. When they die in 6.ne weather
they do not throw water on the grave. Men who have
children that have not yet teeth cannot go to sec a
sick person because that would cause the sickness to
increase. They cannot explain why, only say it is the
law.
The man cannot enter the house, when his wife
has had a child, for a month. Say as another man sleep
with the woman before the child is weaned it will
410 ANnREW SMtTH DIARY

be sickly, but if her proper husband that will not

~ppcn.
When a man has killed another he must be cleansed
before he can go to his house. He goes to the fence
where the men work and then the doctor brings medi-
cine dissolved in water in a round wooden basin, and
into it he dips the tail of a hartebeast, then holds it
over the head of the man when he is placed on his
knees. Two men are assisting and they wash with
their hands the whole body. After the washing is
completed they make small longitudinal incisions
round the wrists quite su:eerlicially, and they rub
bushes burnt and mixed with fat upon these parts.
Then they make a long incision along the front of the
thigh and rub medicine on it, then cut round the
anldes and rub also the great toe but [do] not cut it ;
then they rub the face. That being finished, they go
where they will. The next day it is nearly all gone.
Typlops (No. 12..z.) caught in ground at Motito :
ground colour light grey with bands of black spots
(longitudinally) very slender; plate on nose pale
livid blue ; about 8 inches long.
During the time the boys are absent from the kraal
at the circumcision they wear a sort of kilt made of
the bark of thorn trees twisted (two plait), and round
the neck a string of the fat of the cattle which arc
slaughtered. On one occasion also ropes of the same
fat across the chest as represented in drawings~ vidl
bogmra 1 boys. The body, excepting the head, is
smeared with white clay. They carry in the hand a
switch of straight wood, also an hasscgay and a karrie.
I See Plate 19.
 ANDREW SMITH DIARY

CLEANSING AFTER KILLING A MAN ON COMMANDO.

When the commando returns to the kraal, those

that have killed men repair to the fence where the
people are accustomed to work and there are cleansed
by the doctor before they can go about the kraal or
return to their own homes. Each in succession kneels
down upon a log of wood and supports himself by
means of the hands which are also placed on the ground.
The doctor brings a wooden bowl £lled with herbs
mixed in water, dips the tail of a hartebeast in it and
then holds it over the man's head and back upon
both of which the water falls. Two men are in at-
tendance, who immediately rub and wash the whole
body, head, etc. He then sits up to have the extremities
washed in the same way. That being done he places
himself in the original position, and the doctor creeps
from one side to the other under his breast. The
next part of the ceremony is "d~~afractised, which
consists of making small longitu · incisions round
the wrists and in front of the ankle joints, also one
long one in front of each thigh. They are then smeared
with medicine mixed in fat, and that being done, the
doctor stands up, separates his feet to a considerable
distance and the man passes between his legs from
before backwards. The great toe is also rubbed with
medicine but is not cut. Vid1 drawing for forms.
When a young female menstruates for the first
time they [say] for it italega,1 interpreted, to become
green; when after ch11ala • or ipoga, 3 root boga.•
1 lta/1ga, to become green for oneself for the first ; i.e. to menstruate
for the first time.
• TSfllOI., to abut, or to cover the mkednesa.
1 Ipoho, to mcmtruate ; it i11 the reflezive form of llo111, to bind.
& 1J¥a, to bind.
 ANDMW SMITH DIAilT

9 MAY (SATUIU>AY).

When the com is ripe the chief breaks the head off
a few of his and makes beer of it, and as soon as he
drinks of it he says the other people can begin to act.
When the macatan 1 is ripe the chief takes a f.ortion of
the leaf, chews it, then rubs it on the nave , between
the great and second toe, and upon the sandal inside
upon the inner side of the foot ; then all the men,
women and children throughout the country must
do the same. The wives and children of the chief
must do that first and then the other women and
children. They must also rub the insides of their
shields ; that is to prevent it creating disorder in the
belly. The water that comes from the macatan is
used also for washing the hassegays. The Baralongs
and Matclapins do that no longer ; says that the
macatan does not disturb the belly more now than it
did before when they observed these ceremonies,
therefore he, Malala, thinks it was done without
any advantage and that it was only a superstition of
the old people. About the time that they will com-
mence to cat of the first fruits they used to be called
altogether, and then they were informed that the chief
would eat of the first fruits. Then, broken up, [they]
went all home and eat after going through the same
ceremony. They dance, and when the men are away
the chief eats. After the picho 1 [he] drinks the beer also.
When a tree is struck by lightening they make a
large fire round it and bum it to ashes. This is done
by the rain-maker. H lightening strikes a garden they
say God is angry, and the owner of the garden is
washed with medicine dissolved in water and then
l McloQ.
' I'll#, ot meedllg.
 ANDREW SMITH DIARY

wood is carried to the spot and burnt on the place.

Previous to that they dig into the ground and take out
the moist ground and burn it with the wood. H in
a kraal they take the ashes and throw it in the water ;
if in the field they let it remain. They must always
pay the doctor for such work. The same cleansing as
for killing a man (vidl drawing).1 H thunder strikes in
a kraal for holding cattle, all the people whose cattle
stand there must be washed.
Amongst the Baralongs when a man was sick the
doctor gets a goat and sticks a sharp stick up its
nostrils so as to cause it to bleed. The blood is allowed
to flow over the sick man. When the blood stops they
give medicine to the animal so that it must die, then
they skin it and eat it. The sick man then eats of the
B.esh mixed with medicine.
BARALONG CoMMANDOES.

When a commando goes out they are all treated as in

cleansing except they do not cut when they get near
the place where they are to fight. The doctor has some
powdered herbs in a piece of skin ; then it is opened
and each licks a little of the powder with the tongue ;
then they go to fight. The person who has charge of
it holds a little over and when they are about to
begin to fight he blows it towards the place. They
say that will enable them to conquer. their enemies and
kill them. All the hassegays are brought together
when the pitho is held. The doctor washes all the
hassegays with medicine. The medicine is burnt and
thrown into the water, then washed with wildebcast
tail that has been found dead. They will not use one
that bas been killed by men..
I See Plate '1.
Plate I. Reproduction of a page of the Diary.
 •1,,{~_!_~-t.:~~~

.IJ•••i~~;ii~..,~~~::.,;:

Plate 2. Colesberg, Nachtmaal. See page 64 of text.

Plate 3. The Orange River, near Buffet's Vley. See page 68 of text.
Plate 4. Philippolis, capital of Griqualand. See page 69 of text.
 ~M- . ~A.~ .~~J ~ 1._ .Ja-"-l .. ~ "'-A.4·, ~
A/--·-/.... "- .-:..... 1'_ ~-~ ~ ~./ •• () ~ /<'!.. .. ~
/4.
"'-~ ~:...J. 1 ~ - ~/..( ,.,.A' '
'. -...... Pf.~,.P.-: 1 f?r~~. ~ /~~ /,.~/, , ~/,. ,. /134L

Plate 5. Hendrik Hendriks. See page 71 of text.

 .J/!7.\rcM-a.-"-"" ~~.J.c.u.L~ ~ --:J .t."+f.c...~4··•·-.-t ~-~ l&St,
- "'-" Jel..rri:-

Plate 6. Verhuil, now Bethulie. See page 84 of text.

 7-
.)fl.µ _~-~°'-+~..:. l'- ~-U ~ IUlf. ~ .AW..t.:...U-~~ "'-."-<4~44tL.
•.
l'ol'··.

Plate 7. Moriah ; French Missionary Station. See page I04 of text.

Plate 8. Old Danster. See page I07 of text.
Plate 9. Thaba Boslgu (Mountain of Darkness). See page I 13 of text.
Plate IOA. The Drakensberg Range, East of Bassoutoland. See page 132 of t,ext.

Plate IOB. Lishuane ; a Wesleyan Missionary Station. See page 122 of text.
Plate 11 . Mr. Edwards' congregation at Lishuane. See page 124 of text.
Plate 12. Umpokuane ; Wesleyan Mission Station among the Corannas. See page 127 of text.
Plate 13. Stronghold of Sikonelli, chief of the Mantatees. See page 129 of text.
 •

Jr/i ~ L /,W,~J,U ~l'"( 1 ~~~"-\~?>#.

~ ..,
°S(.:..11&.......J
1 ,.I .c,
._ .... < ,_._ "'/,..._ .__
1 A.. J.1.....1, (,.,. ..
J'.., ........_ e.f..'h l
~ I ) ~ I (,
r~,.~_.1.t
<4t -,It
~
.... """" .c..:.

_ (,_ It.;. t l lo{<.

4,..... • ...
·"' (L,.,..:. It;. J' ,flt..
·ff...
411'~ '· ){ ••••
1
'' "' ,,'It,/,.. f ' 11' ·'1' 1. #-,/- /.
,.} JI ... , if .. • •

Plate 14. Sikonelli, chief of the Mantatees. See page 129 of text.
Plate 15. Thaba 'unchoo (Black Moun~a i n). See page 146 c:( text.
Plate 16. Uitdraai, on the Riet River.
Plate 17. The Valley of the Riet River.
Plate 18, Sketch on the Hodder River.
Plate 19. Sketch on the Madder River.
Plate 20. Fording the Vaal River. See page 220 of text.
Plate 21. London Missionary Station, Kuruman. See page 237 of text.
Plate 22. Kuruman from the North East, across the Vley of reeds.
Plate 23. A Bechuana cupping. Cuts, exhaust and knife. See page 273 of text.
Plate 24. The Langeberg in the Kalihlri desert. See page 30 I of text.
 vffa-o. JJ~..(....;__ ../~/- ~ """~- lk:JZ..~ ~~
~? ~ -:~~ ~ #t:. ~,, .. ?,.. AdL~_: .. ._ ~(-

Plate 25. L'i nchuane (little house)

Plate 26. Sketch on the border:of the Kalihari desert.
Plate ~7, Mo~ito i fren~~ Mi$$ion Sti\tion. See page ~20 of tex~.
Plate 28. Mr. Lemue holding Evening Service. See page 321 of text.
 I

Plate 29. Dress of boys during the ceremony of Circumcision. See page '410 of text.
 '
l '" '
•

Plate 30. Dress of Bechuana girls during Circumcision ceremony. See page 397 of tex;t,,
 .Jl~'flf

"'4• It I { /I.II- ~ • 1,;., /f-fcJr~- f ~ g,.,, ·~ ,,,4, 4 ''""" • .4,.. , ,/,..u.L._ - ./I~•

Plate 31 . Baro!ong purification ce~emony. See page 411 of text.

 ..A'~ ~f ~~ av..- ... ~~ 4.- ~ ~.-i!')
~- ~ ~ t('- ~ Pl-34

Plates 32A and B. Barolong medicine men. See page 413 of text.
-·

-· .....-....