Menswear Ensemble Design Part 1 Chewwu
Menswear Ensemble Design Part 1 Chewwu
Menswear Ensemble Design Part 1 Chewwu
P ART 1
V I C T O RI A C H EW & EM MA WU
M A RC H 7, 2 0 2 3
TABL E O F CO N TE N TS
TA BLE OF CO NTE NTS .. ............................................ . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . P G 2
T H E ME B OARD.......................................................... . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . P G 15
M O OD B OARD............................................................ . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . P G 16
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M A RK ET RE SEAR C H
Introduction
Key Factors
In recent years, the rise of more casual dress codes components: dress shirts, pants, jackets, and accessories.
in workplaces largely due to the COVID-19 pandemic These often come in sets; suits include the tailored jacket
has impacted the market’s demand and its targeted and pants while three-piece suits include a waistcoat.
consumers. The environmental changes and shifts in Pants are then divided into chinos, typically more
cultural values are influencing factors to the growing lightweight and made from cotton twill, and trousers,
popularity of versatile and comfortable styles, such as which often have a looser fit with heavier-weight fabrics
stretch fabrics. The heightened desire for attending social such as wool (Blank Label, 2022). Traditional tailored
events and special occasions after the lifted COVID-19 menswear has many options for accessories, such as bow
pandemic restrictions is also an important environmental ties, narrow or regular-width ties, cuff links, pocket squares
response to consider. and suspenders.
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Historical Style Influences popularity with its business-like and Ivy League image; it
was made from two pieces instead of the traditional four.
Savile Row in Mayfair, Central London, is renowned as one Key elements include lowered armholes, lighter shoulder
of the most well-known locations in the world for its quality pads, straight cut, loose sleeves, and welt pockets with
men’s bespoke tailoring, made-to-measure garments, and flaps; the features also made the suits easier for mass
formal ready-to-wear (Carvell & McCabe, 2020). In 1846, production (Cooper, 2020). The sack suits in general are
tailoring was introduced to the street by Henry Poole and single-breasted without darts and have a single vent.
it slowly transitioned from a residential area to a central for
menswear (Savile Row, n.d.). Over the years, Savile Row has The style of Italian suits was first adopted in 1952 by the
tailored bespoke garments for high-profile clients such as fashion house ‘Brioni’. Named the ‘Roman Style’ suit, it was
the British Royal Family, political figures such as Winston popularized after the 1953 movie ‘Roman Holiday’ starring
Churchill and celebrities. Gregory Peck, who wore an Italian style suit (Cooper, 2020).
Similar to the British suit, it has high armholes and it close
Today, men’s suiting is often categorized into three fitting to the body. However, Italian suits have minimal
distinct styles: British, American, and Italian suits (Cooper, shoulder pads and are also less structured and relatively
2020). The British suit was coined in Savile Row by Henry lightweight with double welted pockets without flaps
Poole and his tailoring house, who played a key role in (Cooper, 2020).
establishing the street as a tailoring center in the world. He
created the first tailless suit jacket in 1860 commissioned
by Edward VII, Prince of Wales, and went on to influence
the development of future tailoring styles (Cooper, 2020).
Key characteristics of a British suit include high armholes,
structured and thick shoulder pads with slight roping, a
close-fitting torso, narrow sleeves with surgeon’s cuffs,
and flapped pockets with a ticket pocket. The suits were
historically worn only by military officials and nobility so
the highly structured and classic appearance was meant to
elevate their formality and status (Cooper, 2020).
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TRE ND RE SEAR C H: A / W 23 /24
Colour
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responds to the modern work and lifestyle while retaining
or gaining appeal to consumers across a wide age range.
In summary, traditional looks and styling with a play on
colour and softer, slouchier silhouettes are the key themes
for men’s tailoring the upcoming season (Paget, 2022).
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I N- STOR E R ESE AR C H
The ‘Boss’ by Hugo Boss was one of a few higher-
end designer menswear stores at Richmond Centre.
The suiting and formalwear were located at the back
of the store, creating a sophisticated and exclusive
atmosphere.
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SU MMARY AND KEY
TAK E AWAYS
The men’s tailoring market places a emphasis on a high
attention to detail, custom and high quality suiting
and formalwear. The projected growth in the general
menswear market demonstrates an overall shift in
consumer behaviour which result of an amalgamation
of various factors. Furthermore, the extensive historical
background in tailoring is a key source of inspiration for
wool compared to the previous 100% polyester. The double modern day design. The 20s offered several key styles and
welt pocket with flap has a more complicated construction the evolving silhouettes reflected connections to historical
process than the patch pockets in the first jacket from the events happening during that time. Based on the historical
Boss store. research, main areas of focus would be the fit, lapel width,
and choices in fabrication.
There were also several variations of collars and cuffs, but
mostly cutaway, semi spread, button-down collars and Consumers also have changing values and priorities
one button round or angle cuffs. Fabrication were mostly in their apparel - the past few years have signified
from 100% cotton such as the Rodd and Gunn shirt above how comfort and versatility are important factors of
($179.00), or a cotton blend (96% cotton/4% elastane) Calvin consideration. This is evident through the in-store research
Klein spread collar shirt with slightly stretch for ease and conducted, where a recurring selling point was the fabric
comfort. and its stretchability. The construction methods, fabric
quality and fibre content fluctuated with the price points;
each were catered to their own target market’s needs and
intended purpose for the garment. As such, incorporating
elements such as traditional patterns and ease-of-care
may increase its transseasonal appeal and longevity.
In conclusion, despite changes in demand in recent
years, tailoring in menswear is a resilient market that will
continue to be present for those who value the exclusive
and fine detail in its craftsmanship.
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ASPI RAT IO N A L BR AND: HU GO BOSS
History Psychographic:
The target consumer is fashion forward and values the way
Founded in Metzingen, Baden-Württemberg, Germany in they dress as a form of confident self expression. Pricing
1924, Hugo Boss is a designer brand that primarily offers is not the highest concern and they are willing to spend
apparel, accessories and fragrances (Hugo Boss, n.d.). The more for quality and stylish products in return.
eponymous brand originally began as a workwear label but
turned into a manufacturing factory to produce uniforms Competition
for the rising Nazi Party in the Weimar Republic of the
1920s and significantly increased sales (Hugo Boss, n.d.). As a brand with long historical connection, main
After the founder’s death in 1948 and the end of World competitors for Hugo Boss are heritage brands such as
War II, the brand shifted to making men’s suiting. Hugo Burberry, Christian Dior, and Ralph Lauren. They are all
Boss started to be recognized as an international brand common household names worldwide for luxurywear and
after they started to sponsor professional motorsports each has its own distinct perceived lifestyle and image.
under the ‘Boss’ division, and the first womenswear
collection was launched in 1998. ‘Boss’ further divided into Sustainability
three subsidiary labels: Black Label (business), Orange
Label (everyday athletic wear), and Green Label (outdoor Hugo Boss has an extensive page on their corporate
activewear) (Gustafson et al, n.d.). The ‘Made-to-Measure’ sustainability plan; many are still in implementation stages.
line was launched in 2011 for men’s tailored suits and The wool used have the Responsible Wool Standard (RWS)
separates. Today, Hugo Boss has expanded to be a well and ZQ-Merino certifications, which ensures and protects
established global luxury label and well known for their animal welfare in production. Their ‘DownPass’ line can be
menswear and suiting. traced back to the farms through individual verification
numbers. Hugo Boss has invested $5 million partnered
Target Market with HeiQ Aeoni, which is a cellulosic filament yarn that,
“made out of cellulosic biopolymers that during growth
Demographic: bind carbon from the atmosphere” aiming to replace
Hugo Boss is divided into two brands: its flagship ‘Boss’ polyester and nylon (Heiq, n.d.). They also have a cicular
which targets millennials and ‘Hugo’, which has a slightly design outline, highlighting on “renewable or recycled
lower pricepoint and focusing on more casualwear materials, design for recyclability, and longevity” (Hugo
(Maguire, 2022). The ‘Boss’ brand likely targets upper- Boss, n.d.). One of their current implementations include
middle or upper class consumers as their men’s tailored the launch of a resale platform and repair services.
suits have a high-end pricepoint.
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HI STO R ICAL IN S PIR ATION : TH E 20s
In the 1920s, men’s tailoring underwent significant
changes, reflecting the shift in fashion and culture. It
placed an emphasis on simplistic design which was
synonymous with womenswear of that time. Jackets
were often single breasted and had one to two buttons.
According to Martin Pel, “British men were perceived
to be sartorially the most elegant, and fashionable men
hoped to emulate the style and heritage of Savile Row
and the English elite” (n.d.). Men’s pants during the 1920s
were relatively looser fitting; the Oxford bags and the plus-
fours were predominant styles that developed during
the decade (Reddy, 2018). Jazz suits and Norfolk jackets
were popular styles, which fitted closer to the body and
emphasized the hourglass figure with a higher waistline.
higher buttoning point (around sternum) and waistline.
(Schneider, 2021) The buttoning point was lowered and
Tailoring Techniques had wider lapels in latter half of the decade, which is
stylistically more similar to present day suiting designs.
Men’s tailoring was characterized by soft tailoring Typically sleeves had three buttons and were more widely
especially in the late 20s and was believed to be spaced with no vents for more streamlined appearance.
introduced to Savile Row by Frederick Scholte. The Dutch (Schneider, 2021)
tailor popularized the drape cut; it had additional ease in
the chest and a tapered waistline and, “...provide[d] a very Vests and waistcoats more optional; if worn they had a
nice balance between a firm structure and comfort.” (van lower neckline cut which showed more of the tie and shirt
het Hof, n.d.). Softer collars were more in trend rather than underneath. The hem of the waistcoats were also longer
its starched counterpart in the previous decade. Suits were with pointier corners. In Europe the bottom button was not
commonly made from made from wool, mohair, tweed or always buttoned but it was still fully done in the the United
corduroy; the fabrics were considerably heavier in weight States.
compared to present day preferences.
Front trouser pleats began to rise in popularity in the late
Style Details & Characteristics 1920s to sustain the crease line when worn.Detachable
collars were more preferred by older upper-class men,
In the early half of the 1920s, the jackets often had a while attached and turndown collars by younger men.
(Schneider, 2021) Single or double cuff links, french cuffs,
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single barrel cuff links with functional buttons were With the Roaring 20s in the United States, people
most often seen on collared dress shirts during this time generally had higher disposable income and could spend
(Schneider, 2021). more on dressing themselves. The increase in mass
production in the textile industry due to industrialization
Suit Styles also made suits less expensive and more accessible
(Cooper, 2020). Overall, men’s tailoring in the 1920s was
Popular styles during this 1920s include the Jazz suit, Ivy characterized by changes in silhouette and fit which
League, English look, and conservative American suit. Jazz reflected the changing attitudes towards fashion and
suits in the early 20s were characterized by its extremely culture in the aftermath of World War I.
close-fitting silhouette with a higher waistline, military
back half belts and shawl collars. Variations were made
through pleats, yokes, and seamlines in the back (Vintage
Dancer, n.d.). The pants were also slim fitting and the
hem ended above the ankle. During autumn and winter
months, the suits were typically in darker colours such
as navy blue and dark gray (Vintage Dancer, n.d.). The Ivy
League style, inspired by British academia were popular
amongst younger men; like the jazz suit, it also had a
slimmer cut. Main details include a narrower lapel, 2-3
buttons with high buttoning point and were generally
longer (Vintage Dancer, n.d.).
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COM PA R ISO N : 1920 ’ S TO NOW
Compared to the 1920’s, men’s forecasted colours for the AW/23/24 season is a
spectrum. It is no longer dull or very conservative, instead, it allows for men to choose
from a variety of colours to clothe themselves with. Giving them more expressive
freedoms in how they dress. Even if it were not for more masculine dressing, men
now have more options for clothing because of cloth dyeing technology today.
AW23/24 1920’s
Gem tones, pastels, pink shades and violets are all forecasted to be a part men’s
fashion very soon according to WGSN. Even ombré colour gradients are making their
way into menswear. However, there are still those who believe these ‘feminine’ colours
emasculate men, which is not the case. Menswear in the 1920’s even had some pastel
colours to choose from. Compared to now, a step forward in menswear is to give these
men more variety in their colour options aside from their blacks, white, and greys.
Allowing for such colours to be worn empowers men to break the gendered colour
barrier and look good while doing so. (Zagor, 2022)
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COM PA R ISO N : 1920 ’ S TO NOW
(Left to Right) OAMC wool blazer and Hugo Boss suit jacket. Taken at
Richmond Centre
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TARG ET M A RK ET PR O FIL E
Demographic
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M OO DBOAR D
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D E S I G N BR IEF AND SU STAIN ABILI TY
In line with modern-day aspirations for a sustainable future and expectations, the
collection of menswear that will be designed for the AW23/24 season will utilize fabrics
that have been sourced ethically and sustainably. This means acquiring materials such as
wool with the Responsible Wool Standard (RWS) certification to ensure the material has
been sourced cruelty-free. Additionally, to ensure the circularity of synthetic materials,
recycled polyesters and buttons made from recycled plastics will be used to help keep
some additional waste out of landfills.
The overall style and theme of this collection is inspired by the 1920’s, where
the excesses of wealth have begun to shine through with more lavish clothing and
accessories. The ‘three-piece suit’ is one of the styles that will be brought back into this
collection, as well as more ornate tie patterns to help emulate the aesthetic. To bring a
more ‘modern’ twist to the collection, the trending colours of the AW23/24 menswear
season will be intertwined with the 1920’s pinstripes and plaids. Additionally, the wools,
tweeds, and corduroys of the 1920’s will be brought back, except, in a more sustainable
fashion.
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REF E R E N C ES
Images
[15th July 1925: A group of young men from the Special English Speaking Union pose by a fountain in Trafalgar Square, London] (1925). https://vintagedancer.
com/1920s/1920s-mens-fashion-the-suit/
[Actors Rudolph Valentino, WS Hart, Douglas Fairbanks 1925]. (1925). https://vintagedancer.com/1920s/1920s-mens-fashion-the-suit/
[Jack Buchanan 1925 wearing oxford bags with navy sport coat]. (1925). https://vintagedancer.com/1920s/1920s-mens-fashion-the-suit/
[“Oxford Bags” at their widest]. (1932). https://www.flickr.com/photos/trevira/4068533448/
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