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Selling plush made from this pattern​ ​is​ ​permitted with credit to “Pattern by TeacupLion” ​on your marketing
photos, online listing or the product tag. Please include credit even if you modify the pattern. Thank you!

● You may not sell this pattern​ ​or any modified versions of it.
● Not for mass manufacturing​ at factories; to be used for home sewing only, sewn by the owner of the
pattern. Sewing classes must purchase 1 for each student.
● You may not share my patterns with others; it’s theft.​ I am able to continue creating new patterns
only because people support me with purchasing legally. Thank you very much!

Designs, patterns and content © TeacupLion | Page 1

This pattern is made best for stretch fabrics similar to minky or fleece. Non-stretch fabrics may not work as well with
this pattern, and pieces rely on stretch for proper fitting and curvature. I have a list of minky suppliers here:
http://www.teacuplion.com/where-to-buy-supplies/

Finished plush dimensions: ​11.5” tall, 10” wide ear to ear, 6” long

Materials needed to make 1 Raichu (WxL, L= yardage, parallel to selvedge)

Orange/Pumpkin (Body, head, body bottom):​ 1/3 yard minky, soft-n-comfy, or fleece (stretchy and soft)
Medium brown/Taupe brown (Ears, paw pads, back stripes): ​1/4 yard minky, soft-n-comfy, or fleece (stretchy and soft)
Yellow/Lemon (Tail tip, ears, cheeks): ​1/3 yard minky, soft-n-comfy, or fleece (stretchy and soft)
Dark brown/black/Chocolate (Tail): ​1/3 yard minky, soft-n-comfy, or fleece (stretchy and soft)
Cream/Sand (Front of paws): ​4” tall minky, soft-n-comfy, or fleece (stretchy and soft)
White/Ivory (Tummy): ​1/4 yard minky, soft-n-comfy, or fleece (stretchy and soft)
Pink (Paw pads):​ scrap fabric 1mm minky, felt or fleece (or any non-fray fabric)
(Optional) Tail wire casing: 17”x3” fleece fabric

Face options:
Machine embroidered face:​ Sold separately: ​https://www.etsy.com/listing/525493324/
Machine sewn applique face:​ Sewing machine, scraps of woven fabric, tear-away stabilizer
Hand sewn applique face:​ Scraps of no-fray woven fabric (such as felt or fake suede)
Painted face:​ Acrylic paint + fabric or fabric paints, paintbrush, newspaper to put underneath
Safety eyes & hand embroidery:​ 21mm plastic or glass eyes, 9mm plastic nose (I recommend GlassEyesOnline.com),
Black embroidery floss (I use DMC) for closed mouth or mouth outline, 5” doll needle, awl for making holes for
eyes/nose.

Notions & tools recommended:

Universal or ballpoint needle (for sewing machines), hand sewing needle, hand embroidery needle, polyester thread,
upholstery thread for attaching ears and tail, scissors, quilting pins, regular pins, polyester fiberfill, chalk or water
soluble pen, chopstick and​ hemostats (necessary!)​ for turning, thread conditioner (to make hand sewing easier).

Thread: Use colors that match the fabric colors you are sewing. When sewing 2 different colors of fabric together, it’s
fine to use just one of the colors to match.
Regular thread colors used: Orange, white, brown, pink, black, yellow
Brown or black embroidery floss or upholstery thread for foot toe lines(I use DMC),
Brown, black, or orange upholstery thread to tack arms down to body, ears to head, tail to body.
Orange upholstery thread to ladder stitch Head Back

Optional notions/tools: ​17” long 1.5-2mm diameter wire, pliers, wire cutters for poseable wired tail

Designs, patterns and content © TeacupLion | Page 2

Machine sewing stitches used:
Running Stitch/Topstitch

Hand sewing stitches used:

Red = showing threads​ | ​Blue = hidden threads​ | ​Dark grey = top fabric​ | ​Light grey = bottom fabric
Ladder Stitch The ladder stitch is used to close openings. Use a color that is similar to
the fabric being sewn closed. Stitch in and out of one side side, then in
and out of the other. Pull the thread to close the stitch, and the two
pieces of fabric will be pulled to each other.

Back Stitch Use this stitch if you do not have a machine; it replaces a straight stitch
on machine.

Stitch from WS to RS of fabric 1 full stitch forward, then stitch

backwards half a stitch. Stitch forward 1 stitch for the next stitch, and
then half a stitch backwards into the closest edge of the last stitch.

Whip Stitch Use this stitch if you are handsewing any applique for the face or paw
pads.
Sew tight and even loops perpendicular around the raw edges of the
fabrics. Bring the needle up through fabric 1/8" away from the edge.
Loop around the edge to the side (one stitch’s width) and repeat.

About this pattern

● “Stretch” arrows on the pattern run parallel with the crosswise grain (major horizontal stretch) of the fabric.
● “Nap” arrows on the pattern run the way the fur goes. If the arrow points down, fur should point down so that
when you pet it, it’s smooth downwards (like petting a cat).
● Seam allowance is included, and is 1/4”.
● RS = Right Side of fabric, WS = Wrong Side of fabric, SA = Seam Allowance

Layout & Cutting Tips

● Print out the pattern pieces, and cut around the outer edge of the black outlines.
● Cutting the fabric pieces separately will give you better symmetry. If you do cut 2 layers of fabric at the same
time, make absolutely sure that the directional stretch is the same for each piece.
● You can pin your pattern to the fabric, trace it with pen, or hold it in place and carefully cut around.
● For each piece marked as “Cut 2”, cut 1 piece, then flip the pattern, and cut the 2nd piece. You should have 1
piece each of WS and RS facing up.

Designs, patterns and content © TeacupLion | Page 3

Clipping curved edges:

Pinning tips
● I recommend quilting pins, as they are thinner than regular pins. For pinning many layers of fabric together, use
regular pins.

Machine Sewing Tips

● Use a 1” square of tear-away interfacing underneath your beginning threads of sewing so the fabric doesn’t get
pushed down into the throat area by the needle. I cut up basket-style coffee filters, and rip them away after
sewing.
● Decrease top tension and increase stitch length when sewing over 4+ layers of minky, such as over many seams.
● For an easier time sewing minky or fleece, use a walking foot to keep both pieces feeding evenly.

Dart Sewing Tips

The “v” shaped dart will become a straight line. Sew using 1/4“ SA, starting at one point and finishing at the other. As
you sew, your seam allowance will decrease until you reach the end. Make sure to backstitch at the start of and end of
the dart. When finishing, sew as smoothly as possible, so that the angle of your dart blends smoothly with the folded
fabric. I sew this as a slight curve.
Using small scissors, snip open some of the fold under the seam allowance to allow the fabric to move more freely in
this area. Stop cutting where I’ve indicated with the blue pinhead. (Opening some of folded fabric to ease)

​-> flipped piece over -> ​

Designs, patterns and content © TeacupLion | Page 4

Machine Applique Tips
● If you have a sewing machine without a zig zag stitch, use a straight stitch with a 1/8” seam allowance. If you
don’t have a machine, you can applique-stitch the details on with a hand sewing needle and polyester thread.
● Set your machine to the zig zag stitch setting, and test the stitch length and width on scrap pieces of minky or
fleece. If machine applique is proving difficult, I recommend hand sewing instead, or touching up machine
sewing with hand sewing afterwards.
● Make sure the stitches are wide and long enough so that there are hardly any gaps between the stitches, and
the fabric should not pucker or stretch much.
● Use a thread color that matches the top applique piece.
● Do not backstitch at the beginning; leave the two threads long. Tie them together afterwards.
● Keep the needle as close to the right edge of the top applique piece as possible, so that most of the visible top
stitches are on the applique piece.
● Sew slowly and adjust the presser foot (pick up, change fabric angle, put down) often around corners for a
smooth stitch.
● Stopping when the needle is down to the right of the applique piece will give a smoother curve.
● Pull pins out just before the pin reaches the presser foot so that you don’t damage your needle by sewing over
the pins.
● For the starting and ending threads, thread your top thread with a hand-sewing needle, and stitch down to the
WS of the fabric, and double-knot the threads together.

Let’s start sewing!

1. Cut fabric pieces
Cut fabric according to instructions on each pattern piece.

2. Prepare Face
Face Option 1: Machine embroidered face: ​Embroider the face according to the PDF embroidery instruction sheet from
your purchase of the files:​ ​https://www.etsy.com/listing/525493324/
Line up center of embroidered nose to the noise alignment dot. TRACE around the pattern first and make sure the eyes
are symmetrical and not crooked; you can check this by folding the face fabric in half, measuring the eyes to pattern
edges, etc.

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Face Option 2: Fabric paint, or acrylic paint with textile additive
1. Trace the alignment markings onto the face using marker, then use small amounts of paint to paint the face on.
Place some scrap newspaper down under the fabric, as the paint can bleed through the fabric. Use a small brush
and make small, downward strokes that go down along the nap (not up and against it).
2. My full detailed eye painting tutorial: ​http://www.teacuplion.com/plushie-eye-painting-tutorial/

Face Option 3: Handsewn applique

1. Trace the face shapes onto felt, suede, or other non-fraying fabric, and cut them out.
2. Sew pink tongue to red mouth before sewing to face. Whipstitch with pink thread.
3. Sew eye white to black eye pupil before sewing to face. Whipstitch with white thread.
4. Align and pin the eyes and mouth to the face.
5. Using handsewing, whipstitch around the edges of the eyes and mouth to the face. Use thread colors that match
the fabric color. (Black for eye, red or pink for mouth.)

For the black mouth outline and nose, use chalk or water soluble pen to make the lines on the face. Use thick
embroidery thread to sew these details on. You can stitch multiple times back and forth for a thicker line.

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Face Option 4: Machine-sewn applique
1. Trace the face shapes onto felt, suede, or other non-fraying fabric, and cut them out.
2. Sew pink tongue to red mouth before sewing to face. Whipstitch or machine stitch with topstitching with pink
thread, and tear away stabilizer underneath.
3. Sew eye white to black eye pupil before sewing to face. Whipstitch with white thread or machine stitch with
tear away stabilizer underneath.
4. Align the eyes and mouth to the face with pins. Check symmetry in a mirror. Use a straight stitch and sew
around with topstitching using 1/8” SA or less.

Satin stitching black outlines for eye and mouth:

Draw temporary lines using water-soluble pen or chalk to stitch over.
Prepare your sewing machine with a zig-zag stitch, and get out a piece of scrap minky and tear-away interfacing as
practice. Your stitches should be about 3mm in width, and stitch length very small. Use medium weight tear-away
interfacing or 2 layers of coffee filter underneath the face fabric, and use a thread color that matches the fabric.
See “Machine Applique Tips” 2 pages up for additional help.

Use a single-stitch over the line, then a zig-zag stitch over. Sew over again for a thicker satin stitch. When finished with
all applique, tear away the interfacing.

Face Option 5: Safety eye/nose option: ​This step will be finalized later, but you can transfer alignment markings now for
symmetry. Poke a hole at the eyes/nose through the paper pattern with an awl or small sharp scissors, line up the paper
pattern to the cut Head Front piece, and use water soluble pen or chalk to mark where the eyes & nose will go.

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 3. Sew Pawpads to Cream Feet
Change thread to pink.
Align and pin Paw Pad to front of Feet (cream pieces), and topstitch around with 1/8” SA or less. If sewing by hand, use a
whipstitch.
Video on how to sew paw pads:​ ​https://youtu.be/W_p09SXuEfY

4. Pin and sew cheeks

Change thread to yellow.
Pin cheek circles to face so that cheek nap also runs down (same as the face). Make sure cheeks are symmetrical before
sewing. Topstitch around cheek edge using 1/8” or less seam allowance, and matching yellow thread.
(If sewing by hand, use a running stitch or whipstitch.)

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 5. Topstitch yellow Ear Tips to brown Ears
Pin Ear Tip on top of the matching Ear piece.
Use yellow thread to topstitch the Ear Tip to Rar around the curve as shown below in red lines using 1/8” SA. (If by hand,
use whipstitch or running stitch.)
When you’re done sewing, trim away the extra brown fabric that is doubled behind the yellow fabric. Repeat for other
ear.

6. Sew around Ears

Use yellow thread.
Pin one Ear piece with yellow Ear tip(this is the ear front) to a plain brown Ear (this is the ear back) RS together.
Start sewing at the yellow portion with 1/4” SA.If sewing by hand, use a backstitch.

Optional: when you reach the brown fabric, switch to brown thread. Sew all the way around the ear with 1/4” SA
Repeat for other Ear. When done, trim away 1/8” of SA.
Next use small scissors to make a hole to turn the ear through - this is marked on the Ear pattern as a black line with “cut
& turn”. Turn through with hemostats, and push out edges with a chopstick.

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 7. Topstitch curls on ears
Use washable pen or chalk to draw curls on the Ears, shown on the Ear pattern as blue curls.
Use yellow thread. Sew over the line you drew using a single stitch (topstitch) by machine, or backstitch by hand.
Repeat for other ear.
Use hemostats and stuff ears with polyester polyfil stuffing through the hole that you turned the ears through.

8. Topstitch Paw Tips on top of Paws

Change to brown thread. Align brown Paw Tips on top of orange Paws, and topstitch Paw Tip to Paw using 1/8” SA.
Shown as a blue line on the pattern and diagram below. Repeat for all 4 Paws.
Trim away orange fabric from underneath the brown Paw Tip, so the fabric isn’t doubled here.
If hand sewing, use a whipstitch or back stitch.

9. Sew Feet front to back

Use brown thread. Pin one Foot front piece (cream) to one back piece(brown).
Sew feet RS together all the way around with 1/4” SA. Trim around seam allowance down to 1/8”.
On the back of each Foot (brown side), make a small hole with scissors to turn the foot through. This cut location is
indicated on the Foot pattern. Turn through using hemostats, and push out curved edge with chopstick.

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 10. Sew around Paws
Use brown thread. Pin Paw pieces RS together and sew around ​O-P​ with 1/4” SA, leaving short flat edge open. Trim
curved edges and turn RS out.

11. Stuff Paws and Feet

Make sure all Paw and Feet pieces are turned RS out. Stuff Paws lightly, and stuff Feet firmly.
Pin Paws closed, and sew the raw edge ​P-O​ closed by machine with 1/8” SA (or by hand with a basting stitch or
whipstitch).

12. Sew Tail

Pin long Tail piece to the yellow Tail Tip piece RS together, matching​ Y-Y and Z-Z.
Use brown thread. Sew along ​Y-Z​ with 1/4” SA. Repeat for other Tail pieces.
Sew 2 Tail pieces RS together with 1/4” SA, leaving short flat edge ​(M)​ open, along with a 2” gap in the yellow tail tip. If
desired, switch thread color to yellow when sewing the Tail Tip.
Stitching line is indicated as the red line in the below photo. You will need both of these holes in the tail to turn and stuff
the tail. Trim seam allowance to 1/8”.

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(Step 12 continued: Sew Tail)
Turning the tail is a bit tricky, you’ll absolutely need your hemostats. Insert hemostats into the larger gap of the yellow
Tail Tip, grab the middle section of the brown tail, and pull the entire brown tail through. Turn Tail RS out completely,
and set aside.

13. Pin and sew Head Front Darts

Change thread to orange.
Pin head front darts near cheeks and sew ​C-C1​ with 1/4” SA. Clip curved edges and trim open, using dart sewing tips on
page 3.
Pin head front dart ​A-A1​ for forehead and sew with 1/4” SA. This one is very important to blend to a smooth line to the
nose along the center. Keep in mind that the longer you make this stitch near the nose, the further down the center of
the face it will go, and may affect the shape of the face near the nose or mouth. Clip curved edges.

14. Sew Head Back Center

Use orange thread. Pin Head Back pieces RS together and sew along center back ​A-H​, leaving open a 2” gap (indicated as
a red line on the pattern). Clip curved edges and set aside.

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 15. Sew Body Side darts
Use orange thread. Sew Body Side darts along ​L-L1​ (this is the hip) with 1/4” SA for both Body Side pieces.

16. Sew Inner Legs to Tummy

Align Tummy​ I and J​ to Inner Leg ​I and J​. Pin at edges​ I and J​, then pin inbetween.

Video tutorial for how to pin tricky pieces:​ ​https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JKbzGI3oRu0

Use orange thread. Sew along​ I-J​ with 1/4” SA. Clip curved edges when done.

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 17. Sew Body Sides to Tummy & Inner Leg
Pin Body Side piece with corresponding Tummy (with Inner Leg pieces). Match the top edge of body ​C to C​, top of Inner
Leg ​I to I​, tip of Leg​ I2 to I2​, bottom of Inner leg​ K to K​.
Use orange thread. Sew along ​C-I-I2-K​ with 1/4” SA. Clip curved edges when done, and repeat for other Body Side piece.

18. Sew Body back center seam

Align and pin Body Side pieces together.
Use orange thread. Sew along the center back ​H-M ​with 1/4” SA. Clip curved edges.

19. Sew stripes to body back

Prepare the stripe:
Fold one of the Back Stripe fabric pieces in half. Place a pin at this center point. Then, line up that pin to the body back
seam.
Pin the back stripe to the back of the body. Since the body is a curved piece of fabric and the stripe is straight, you may
want to use the edge of a table to help align and pin.
Change thread to brown. Topstitch around the edge using 1/8” SA. If sewing by hand, use a whipstitch.
Repeat for the second stripe.

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 20. Sew Tummy center seam
Pin Tummy pieces RS together​ B-N.
Change thread to white. Sew along ​B-N​ with 1/4” SA. This is the center chest seam. Trim seam allowance when done.

21. Sew Body Bottom

Pin center front of Body Bottom to Tummy front Center,​ N to N​. Notches​ J to J​,​ K to K​, hip dart ​L ​to notch​ L​, and center
back​ M ​to body bottom ​M​. Continue pinning all inbetween.
If you need help pinning, I made a video for my fox pattern that uses this same technique:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ATzFATZoT0I
Change thread to orange. Sew around using 1/4” SA ​N-M-N​. You can sew the bottom using your sewing machine if you
are comfortable sewing a straight edge to a curved edge with multiple layers of fabric, or you can sew by hand using a
backstitch. Starting just after the back seam, sew forward slowly around the entire bottom piece, pulling out pins as you
approach them with the needle. Clip curved edges when done.

22. Pin Paw Arms to Body

Align Paw Arms so that Paw seam ​O ​meets notch​ O​ on Tummy. Pin in place, and if you need to, baste stitch them in
place with a long running stitch using 1/8” SA, thread of any color.
Check symmetry: Fold Body in half along the center Tummy seam. Make sure that Paw Arms are symmetrical to each
other from the front tummy seam.

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 23. Sew Head Front to Head Back
Pin Head Back to Face front RS together. Match sides ​D to D, ​center top​ A to A, ​and sides​ D to D.
Use orange thread. Sew Head Front to Head Back ​D-A-D ​with 1/4” SA​. ​Clip curved edges.

24. Sew Head to Body

Align Head to Body so that you match the Tummy seam​ B ​to Head Front notch​ B,​ Head Front dart​ C ​to Tummy seam ​C​.
Make sure the Paw arms are inside the plush.
Pin Head side seam ​D ​to Body Side notch ​D​, and Head Back seam​ H ​to Body Back center seam ​H​. Continue pinning all
away around the head.
Optional: You can baste stitch first with long running stitches for a lot of accuracy.
Use orange thread. Machine stitch around entire neck​ B-H-B​ with 1/4” SA, or backstitch by hand with 1/4” SA if you are
not confident with this step on machine.
Cut curved edges, and turn the entire plushie inside out through hole in back of head.

25. Stuff the plush

If Raichu’s face is already sewn on, you can stuff both the body and head firmly.
If you still need to attach the safety eyes and nose, you can stuff the body firmly, and the head mostly firmly. (This is
because you will need the head stuffed to see what the face will look like, then unstuff to attach the backings of the
safety eyes/nose, and re-stuff again afterwards.)

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 26. (Optional) Use awl to make holes for eyes and nose, insert eyes
Do this step if you are using safety eyes/nose.
Before making holes for the eyes and nose, place pins at the pen or chalk markings to make sure your markings are
accurate and symmetrical. You can check symmetry in a mirror..
When you’re ready, use an awl or small scissors to poke a hole for the safety eyes and nose. If the hole is not large
enough, you can make it a bit larger with small scissors. When ready, place the eyes and nose in the holes to make sure
placement is correct, and eye/nose sizes are as desired.
On the inside of the head, press the backings onto the eyes so they don’t pop anymore.
Do not apply the backing for the nose yet!

27. (Optional)Embroider mouth - closed mouth version, or mouth outline

You can use water soluble pen to draw where you want the mouth to be.
Or place pins where you want the edges of the mouth to be. Test with your embroidery thread by wrapping around the
pins to make sure the mouth is cute and symmetrical.
Use at least 12 inches of black embroidery thread and a 5” doll needle. Knot your thread ends.
Remove the nose.
Insert the doll needle through the nose hole, and stitch out to the top center of the mouth in the muzzle seam, just
below the nose hole.
Stitch into the bottom center mouth. Stitch out to the left mouth corner, and back into the center.

When tightening your thread, ease the last bit of thread down gently by holding a pin underneath, easing both threads
down evenly.

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(Step 27 continued: Embroider mouth)
Stitch out at the right mouth corner, and back into the middle of the mouth. Pull needle out through the nose hole.
Clip threads and double-knot, making sure the knot is inside the plush. Trim away extra thread.

28. (Optional) Apply nose backing

Un-stuff the head and from the inside of the head, push the nose backing on as tight as it will go.
Then re-stuff the head firmly.
Video tutorial for how to apply the nose:​ ​https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=O215Tp1Z15s

29. (Optional) Sew Paw toe lines on Feet

You can use upholstery thread or embroidery floss for paw lines.
Raichu in the anime doesn’t have paw lines on arms, just the feet.
Use the blue lines of the patterns as reference. You can cut the lines on the paper pattern and line up the paper pattern
on the stuffed foot if you’d like it exact.
To make 3 paw toes on the foot, insert 2 pins (per the photo below).
Use either 20” of brown thread or embroidery floss. Knot ends, and insert the needle into hole of the foot. Stitch out at
the ballhead of the first pin.
Loop the thread around the top of the foot, and stitch into where the back of the pin is.

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(Step 29 continued: Saw Paw toe lines on Feet)
Stitch out again at the second pin. Pull the thread, forming the toe, “easing” the thread down with a pin to create even
tension. Repeat for the second toe line.
When both toes are complete, bring the needle out near the hole of the Foot, then hide the knot. My tutorial on hiding
knots: ​http://www.teacuplion.com/how-to-hide-knots/
Repeat for the other foot.

30. Pin and ladder stitch Feet to Legs

Pin Feet to legs (those little nubby thighs) so that you’re happy with the angle, and the hole at the back of the foot is
covered by the leg. If desired, use chalk or water soluble pen and trace the intersection line where the 2 fabrics meet.
This will be a stitching guide line.

Use orange thread and ladder-stitch around the back of the foot to the leg, checking the angle of the foot regularly. This
is the red line on the foot pattern, and the red stitches in the photo above.
If you need extra help with ladder stitching the feet, my video from my baby bird pattern uses
this technique: ​https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YeHSAf3lwzM

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(Step 30 continued: Pin and ladder stitch Feet to Legs)

How to Ladder Stitch:

Shown top view in the diagram, horizontal pink stitches are on the wrong side of fabric, inside the plush.
Use some thread conditioner to make hand sewing easier.
Thread your needle, and knot. Insert your needle into the Foot hole. Sew into Leg, make a small stitch in and out, and
sew into the foot again. Repeat making 1 stitch on the Foot, 1 stitch on the Leg. Pull tension on the thread as you sew to
close the gap between the Foot and the Leg.

31. (Optional) Create wire inside tail

Measure out a 17” long, 3” tall rectangle of fleece fabric for a soft casing for the wire so you don’t feel the wire from the
outside of the plush.
First, sew around the 17”x3” wire casing, leaving one 3” side open, per the picture below (black lines).

Next, use wire cutters or pliers with a wire cutter function to cut a 17” length of wire. The thicker your wire, the easier it
will be able to hold the tail pose. The thinner the wire, the less strong it will be. The wire I used is about 1.7mm thick,
and is just about perfect for the job. Use pliers to curl the 2 raw edges inwards, so they’re not sharp edges.

CAREFULLY insert the wire through the open end of the casing. Make sure not to stab a hole through the fleece.
When wire is fully in, sew the open end shut per the picture below (red line). I had plenty of casing left over because of
the stretch of the fabric, so I was able to do this by machine. You may need to sew by hand using a backstitch.

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(Step 31 continued: Create wire inside tail)
Carefully insert the wired fabric inside the tail through the hole at the yellow tail tip.
Then stuff the tail firmly using a chopstick. You will insert stuffing through the hole at the brown tail side for half of that
length, and also through the yellow tail tip side for the other half of the tail. Stuff until the tail is firm; then stuff the
yellow tail tip as well, less firmly.
Use yellow thread and ladder stitch the hole on the Tail Tip closed.

32. (Optional) Sew arm Paws down to Tummy

The arm Paws currently stick straight out. If you’d like to sew the arm Paws down towards the tummy, use a ladder
stitch to tack the arms to the body.
Use brown or orange upholstery thread.
Hold the arm Paws into position for where you’d like them to be, then pin them in place. Place pins at this intersection
on both the Tummy and the arm Paws. You will use the ladder stitch to sew a line of about 6 stitches back and forth
between the Paw and Tummy. Pull the thread tight as you sew, so that the arm Paw will rest on the Tummy.

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 33. Ladder stitch the Head back opening
Use orange upholstery thread to sew the opening in the Head Back closed using 1/4” SA.

34. Ladder stitch Tail to Back of Body

Note: The edge of the tail to be sewn to the body (M) Is currently a straight line all around, and if sewn perpendicular to
the body, it will stick straight out at 90 degrees. If you want the tail to be angled to the side a bit, just cut away some of
the fabric at one side of ​M​. This is shown as the red line on the Tail pattern near M.

Align the tail ​M​ to the rear of the plush, at the center back, about 1cm above the body bottom. 1cm above seam ​M​ on
the Body Side pattern for reference. See image on next page for placement.
Use brown upholstery thread and sew using a ladder stitch around the tail TWICE to the body for extra strength.
How to ladder stitch: ​https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KFFbcDUFWK0

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(Step 34 continued: Ladder stitch tail to body)

35. Ladder Stitch Ears to Head

Pin the ears to the upper sides of the head, checking symmetry in a mirror. Use the photo of Raichu below for alignment
reference.
At the intersection of where the ear meets the head, use water soluble pen and draw a line on both the ear and the
head, so you know exactly where your stitches will land. See the Ear paper pattern red line for reference.
Use brown or orange upholstery thread. By hand, ladder stitch ears on to head..
Video technique how to ladder stitch the ears (same as how to sew ram horns)
Skip to 10:20: ​https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cQPGP5Moc-A&t=1s

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(Step 35 continued: Ladder Stitch Ears to Head)

36. Cleanup
For fur or minky only: You may decide to clean up the seams that you topstitched over, such as the ear tip, paw tip, and
back stripes.
You can do so with the edge of a pin or needle; I prefer a doll needle since it’s sturdy. Just use the edge to pull or scrape
the fibers out from underneath the sewn seam, as them being trapped underneath the stitches creates that line of
depth. By pulling the fibers out, the fur fibers can actually somewhat cover the seam. It won’t be perfect, but it can help
it look more smooth.

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Lint-roll any stray threads, and voila! Welcome your big cuddly Raichu plush into the world with a great big hug!

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Designs, patterns and content © TeacupLion | Page 25