Moogle Plush Sewing Pattern

moogle plush
a free sewing pattern by

moogle plush
moogle plush 2 free sewing tutorial
Kupo! Fans of Final Fantasy are sure to love

this extra fuzzy Moogle! It has all the classic
makes:
details that make the character so adorable One plush: about 7" tall (not including
-- including little wings, kitty ears, a pom pom, pom-pom) and 5" wide
and fluffy neck ruff.
Make one to build up your Moogle army!
difficulty:
The hardest part of this plush is all of the tiny

details sewn on by hand, including the arms,
wings, and head. Be sure to align the head
carefully so it looks straight.
But if you have any problems, fluffy neck ruff
will help cover any mistakes!
skills used:
• Fusible web applique
• Basting
• Darts
• Sewing small pieces
• Ladder stitch
sew desu ne?

| www.cholyknight.com |
// ©2019
©2017 Choly Knight // Items made using this pattern may be sold. Credit to “Choly Knight” or “Sew Desu Ne?” is appreciated.
You may not reproduce, share, freely distribute, or sell this pattern as your own in digital or printed form.
materials & tools:

• ¼ yd. of fabric for main body
• 1/8 yd. or 5" x 7" piece of red fabric for pom pom
• 1/8 yd. or 3" x 7" piece of pink fabric for inner ears
• 1/8 yd. or 5" x 14" piece of purple fabric for wings
• 1/8 yd. or 5" x 9" piece of faux fur for neck ruff
• 2" x 2" piece of black fabric for pom pom stalk
• 2” x 2" piece of black applique fabric (felt, cotton,
etc.) for eyes
• 2” x 2" piece of pink applique fabric for blush
• 2” x 2" piece of red applique fabric for nose
• 4” x 4” piece of light or heavy duty fusible web
• sewing thread to match main fabric and applique
fabrics
• 4" pipe cleaner
• poly-fil stuffing
• basic sewing tools (sewing machine, scissors, iron,
needles, pins, fabric marker, seam ripper)
suggested fabrics:
Plush, stretchy fabrics such as fleece or minky
faux fur are suggested. The variations of fleece and minky
mentioned to the left would work well, but really
any plushy fabric with a bit of stretch on the cross-
minky wise grain would be well-suited.
Stretch fabrics like fleece or minky will create
a more squat, round shape when stuffed.
Non-stretchy fabrics, like felt or cotton, won’t
cuddle fleece stretch when stuffed so the resulting plush will look
elongated as shown.
micro fleece minky vs. felt
anti-pill fleece
fleece
sew desu ne?

// ©2019 Choly Knight // Items made using this pattern may be sold. Credit to “Choly Knight” or “Sew Desu Ne?” is appreciated.
printing the pattern:

To print the pattern, set your computer to print pages 19-21. If you’re unfamiliar with printing
and assembling a .pdf pattern, read the steps below.
At the print dialog box, check the box that says

print at “Actual Size” or 100%. Any other selection
(such as “Fit to page”) will distort the pattern so it’s
slightly larger or smaller and we don’t want that.
Print the pages needed for the file. You might have
one or more. Either way, be sure you have the
full collection by noting the page numbers in the
corner.
You can trace the patterns onto a different paper,

or you can also just cut them straight from the
printer paper. They might be a little hard to pin
through, so you might want to use your longest
pins. But you could also use pattern weights or
trace the outlines onto the fabric with a washable
marker and cut them out from there.
3
sew desu ne?
cutting the fabric:
1 2 3 4
Place pattern on the fabric, Pin the pattern in place, use Using the paper as a For all fur fabrics, shake the
and make sure the stretch pattern weights, or trace the template, cut out the fabric. excess fuzz away.
line matches the stretch outline of the pattern with a Cut the required amount
of the fabric. The nap line washable marker. according to the pattern.
should go in the direction of
the fur.
cutting layout:
main body fabric STRE TCH
faux fur
1/8 yd.
¼ yd.; 9” long I
F F
NAP
A E E
NAP
9” wide
B B G G G G
pom pom fabric
1/8 yd.
28” wide
C C
NAP
inner ear fabric wing fabric 7” wide

1/8 yd.
1/8 yd.
B B pom pom
H H H H
NAP
NAP
stalk
D
2"
7” wide 14” wide

2"
before you begin:

• Briefly read the project instructions so you know what to expect.
• If desired, mark the cut fabric pieces with the markings and symbols from the pattern. Or wait
until the applicable step before transferring.
• Note that the seam allowance used is ¼” throughout the project.
sew desu ne?

hold applique
fuse onto while pulling
trace onto paper away
paper side applique fabric
1. prepare the face applique

a. Take your fusible web and trace all your applique pieces onto the smooth (paper) side. You should
have 2 eyes, 2 blush marks, and 1 nose.
b. Fuse the bumpy (adhesive) side onto the wrong side of your applique fabric. The eyes go onto black,
the blush on to pink, and the nose on red.
c. Cut out the nose and arrange it on the head front (A) piece. Set your paper pattern on top of the
fabric piece (right sides up), align the nose piece on top where the placement markings are, then
carefully pull the paper pattern away while holding the applique piece in place.
fuse nose add eyes and blush stitch in place

first next along edge
2. fuse the applique

a. Fuse the nose in place with your iron (use a press cloth -- such as a scrap piece of cotton -- if you’re
using a polyester or fur fabric like minky).
b. Next, move onto the smaller eye and blush pieces. Fuse them much the same way as you did the
nose, using the paper pattern and photos as a guide.
c. If you used heavy duty fusible web, you can keep the pieces fused without sewing, or you can sew
them in place a number of ways. I’ve used a zigzag stitch here.
→→ Refer to the next step for some other applique options.
sew desu ne?

4
2
straight stitch; applique 3
great for felt whipstitch 1
2a. other applique options

a. Other good options for applique include a straight stitch, which involves sewing around the edge of
the applique pieces with a straight stitch using matching thread -- about 1/8” in from the edge.
b. You can also applique by hand; I prefer a whipstitch. Thread a hand-sewing needle with some
matching thread and knot it. Bring the thread up from the back of the project; about 1/8” in from the
edge of the applique shape. Bring it down perpendicular from the curve, just outside of the applique
shape. This completes one stitch.
c. For the next stitch, bring the needle back up about 1/8” away from the previous stitch and 1/8” in from
the edge just as in the first stitch. Once again, bring it down just outside the applique shape. Continue
this way until you’ve sewn around the shape.
pivot off
the edge
blend seam
into fold
fold along
point of dart
3. sew the darts

a. Locate the open wedges found on the top and bottom of the head front
(A) piece -- these are the darts. To sew them, fold the front piece in half
darts:
A wedge-shaped gap
along the point of the dart. Match up the slanted lines that make the wedge found in a pattern. When
shape. sewn in fabric, it creates a tuck
in the fabric and develops a 3D
b. Sew the darts by starting at the opening and moving down to the point. shape. The diagonal sides of
When sewing the nose, pivot off the edge to give the nose a little point. For the wedge are the legs; these
the bottom dart, try to blend the seam in with the fold so it makes a smooth are matched up and sewn
transition and a rounder finished plush. to the point of the dart.
c. Once complete, the bottom dart should blend nicely into the rest of the
plush.
sew desu ne?
align inner ear to

outer ear fabric
leave open
for turning
4. sew the ears

a. Grab your ear pieces (B). Take two of them; one in inner ear fabric and one in the main fabric. Align
them with right sides facing and raw edges matching up.
b. Sew them together along the long curved edge. Leave the straight edge free for turning right side out.
c. Turn the ear right side out. Repeat with the remaining two ear pieces for two complete ears total.
fold along
fold line
basting:
A form of temporary
sewing meant to hold pieces
in place. A long stitch length is
often used for this reason. The
finished result is not meant
to be seen and sometimes
mirrored is even removed later
pair (depending on your
project).
5. baste the ears
a. Refer to the ear paper pattern to find the fold line for the ears. Use this as a guide to fold the ear with
inner fabrics facing. Pin the ear together.
b. Baste the ear along the bottom edge to hold the fold in place. Repeat with the remaining ear so you
have a mirrored pair.
sew desu ne?

fold along
dart points blend
seams
into fold
6. sew the pom pom darts

a. Grab your pom pom pieces (C). Take one and fold it in half along the points of the darts, similar to the
head front (A) back in step 3.
b. Sew the darts as before, starting at the opening and blending into the fold.
c. When complete, you should have one half of a sphere. Repeat with the other pom pom piece for the
remaining half.
align long sew along turn tube

edges long edge right side out
7. sew the pom pom stalk

a. Grab your pom pom stalk piece (D). Fold it in half with right sides facing and the longer edges
matching up.
b. Sew the stalk along the long edge. Leave the two short ends free so you have a short tube.
c. Turn the tube right side out through the small openings. You may want to use hemostats (if you have
them) for this step.
sew desu ne?

leave open
insert for turning
pipe cleaner
through stalk
center stalk over stalk is

pom pom dart sandwiched
8. baste the stalk inside
a. Take your pipe cleaner and insert it into the tube of the pom pom stalk (D). It's longer than the fabric,
which is what we need. Center the stalk over the pipe cleaner so the pipe cleaner extends on both
sides.
b. Grab one of your pom pom pieces (C). Take your stalk and center one end of the fabric tube along one
of the darts of the pom pom. Note that the pipe cleaner will extend past the pom pom. Baste the stalk
to the pom pom -- sew very slowly and carefully so as not to break a needle.
c. Align the second pom pom over the first with right sides facing. Match up the darts and sew around
the perimeter of the pom pom. But leave a small 1-2" opening in the side for turning the pom pom
later. The stalk should be sandwiched and secured between the two pom pom pieces.
stuff pom pom

insert needle from
inside of opening
turn right
side out
9. stuff the pom pom

a. Turn the pom pom right side out through the opening in the side.
b. Stuff the pom pom with stuffing until it takes shape.
c. Tuck the seam allowance from the opening inside the pom pom. Thread a hand-sewing needle and
knot it at the end. Insert the needle from the inside of the opening and out of the pom pom near one
edge of the opening. This will leave the knot inside the pom pom.
sew desu ne?

bring needle
out close to knot pull at thread
while clipping
ladder
stitch closed
10. stitch the pom pom closed

a. From here ladder stitch the pom pom closed. Take a 1/8” stitch into
the fold of one side of the opening, then go across and take another.
Keep going down the opening until you reach the end.
2 1
b. When you’re finished, stitch a knot into the end of the seam. Then
insert the needle near the finished knot and out of the plush about
1-2” away.
c. Pull the thread through and hold it taut while snipping the thread.
4
3 seam allowance
The excess thread should sink back inside the pom pom -- all (folded inside)
hidden!
a. If you haven't already, locate

inner ears ear folds point the ear placement lines
face down toward center
found on the head front (A)
paper pattern. Transfer them
over to the right side of the
fabric.
Place the open end of the
ears within these placement
lines. The inner ear fabric
should face down and the
folds should point toward the
center. Pin the ears in place.
11. baste the ears and pom pom Place the open end of the
pom pom stalk (D) over
the center dart in the same
manner.
b. Baste the ears and pom pom
to the front within the seam
allowances to hold them in
place for future steps.
sew desu ne?

match up back
seam with darts
leave
open for
turning
12. sew the head back

a. Grab your two head back pieces (E). Align them together with right sides facing and edges matching
up.
b. If you haven't already, locate the opening for turning markings found on the paper pattern. Transfer
them over to the wrong side of the fabric. Sew along this edge of the head back pieces only, but be
sure to leave the opening for turning that you marked.
c. Open up your head back piece and grab the head front piece you have so far. Align them with right
sides facing. Be sure the top of the back pieces are aligned with the top of the front piece. The back
seam should also match up with the top and bottom dart on the front.
sew trim seam

very carefully allowance at
over pipe cleaner corners
13. sew the head

a. Sew around the perimeter of the head completely. As before, be very careful when sewing over the
pipe cleaner for the stalk.
b. Trim the excess seam allowance at the corners of the little head spikes. This will reduce bulk when the
head is turned later.
c. Turn the head right side out through the opening you left in the back. Poke out the corners with a
chopstick or similar turning tool.
sew desu ne?

stuff nose so fill rest of ladder

it pops out the head stitch closed
14. stuff and close the head

a. Stuff the head firmly with stuffing, pushing the stuffing towards the face and nose area until it fills out
and no longer has wrinkles in the fabric.
b. Finally fill up the sides and center of the face until it's completely full. Be sure to stuff around all sides
of the pipe cleaner. This will help the pom pom stand up.
c. Once the plush is stuffed, make sure the seam allowances in the opening are tucked inside and ladder
stitch it closed similar to the pom pom back in step 10.
fold along
point of dart blend seam match up
into fold dart seams
15. sew the body darts

a. Grab your body pieces (F). Take one of them and fold it in half along the point of the dart found at the
bottom.
b. Sew the dart like with previous ones. Start at the opening and work to the point, blending into the fold
as closely as possible.
c. Repeat with the other body piece. Once complete, align the two body pieces with right sides facing
and raw edges matching up.
sew desu ne?

leave open clip seam allow-

for turning ance at corners turn right side out
16. sew the body

a. If you haven't already, locate the opening for turning markings on the paper pattern for the body (F).
Transfer them over to the wrong side of the fabric.
Sew around the perimeter of the body, being sure to leave an opening where you indicated before.
b. Clip the seam allowance between the legs to increase flexibility when the body is turned.
c. Turn the body right side out through the opening you left.
ladder
stitch closed
17. stuff and close the body kupo!

a. Stuff the body with stuffing. Focus on getting
small bits into the legs first, then work your
way up to the opening.
b. Close up the opening with a ladder stitch
similar to how you did back in step 10.
sew desu ne?

leave open
for turning
18. sew the arms

a. Grab your arm pieces (G). Take two of them and align them together with right sides facing and edges
matching up.
b. Sew around the long curved edge of the arm, leaving the short straight edge free for turning right side
out
c. Turn the arm right side out and repeat with the remaining two arm pieces for two complete arms
total.
stuff align arms whip stitch

lightly over body arms to body
opening
19. attach the arms whip

a. Stuff the arms lightly with stuffing. Be sure to keep it extra light near the stitch:
opening, as we'll be sewing that to the body next. A kind of overhand stitch
where the needle is brought
b. Align the arm with the body so the raw edge of the arm is right against the from the back of the project to
stitching from the opening in step 17. the front. The thread wraps
The edge of the arm should be perpendicular to the body seam. around the fabric edge and
the process is repeated
c. Whip stitch the open end of the arm to the body to hold it in place. for each stitch.
sew desu ne?

a. Take your finished head

and align it over the body.
The side seams of the head
should match up with the
side seams of the body.
The head should nestle
against the body enough to
cover up the raw edges of the
align arm openings.
head over
body b. Stitch the head to the body
stitch
head to with a ladder stitch. Be sure
body your stitching goes into the
20. attach the head arms as well, as this will
cover up the raw edges in the
arm openings.
trim seam
allowances
21. sew the wings

a. Grab your wing pieces (H). Take two of them and align them with right sides facing and raw edges
matching up.
b. Sew the two pieces together all around the perimeter. Be sure to pivot at the corners for the best
results.
c. When complete, trim the excess seam allowance at the inner curves and outer corners. This will help
reduce bulk and increase flexibility when the wings are turned later.
Repeat this step with the remaining two wing pieces for two sewn wings total.
sew desu ne?

cut through
one layer of
wing only
stuff lightly
22. turn and stuff the wings

a. Arrange both wings beside each other so they are a mirrored pair.
To turn the wings, make small clips near the end, through one layer of fabric only. There's a cutting
guide on the paper pattern as well for help.
b. Turn the wings right side out through the small hole.
c. Stuff the wings very lightly with stuffing -- just enough to give them a little definition.
a. Place the cut end of one wing

align along the back of the moogle,
wings over about 1" down from the neck
back stitch and in line with the back head
wings seam. There's also a place-
to back
ment guide on the paper
pattern for extra help.
b. Ladder stitch the wings to
the back around the cut from
before to seal it off.
23. attach the wings
sew desu ne?

match up
long edges turn right
leave short side out
ends open
24. sew the neck ruff

a. Grab your neck ruff piece (I). Fold it in half lengthwise with right sides facing and the long straight
edges matching up. Pin the edges together, making a tube with the fabric.
→→ faux fur tip: Try to tuck as much of the fur into the tube as possible. This will hide your seam
later.
b. Sew the ruff along the long edge. Leave the short straight edges open for turning later.
c. Turn the ruff right side out.
sew short
ends wrap
match up around neck
short ends
25. attach the neck ruff

a. Fold the ruff in half widthwise so the short edges match up. Pin the
short edges together.
Once again, push the fur away from the edge to better conceal the
seam we're about to make.
congrats!
this completes
b. Sew the short ends together so the fur now makes a ring. Turn the ring
right side out and fluff the fur so it hides the seam.
your plush! Now
give it a big
c. When complete, put it on your moogle! Squish the body to move it into
place beneath the neck. It should be a secure fit, but you can also stitch
hug!
it in place for extra insurance if you wish.
sew desu ne?

pg. 1/3
STALK (D)
Cut 1 from black fabric
¼” seam allowance
opening for turning

POM POM (C)
NAP
Cut 2 from red fabric
STRETCH
nt
ear
me
p
lac
lace
e
me
p
ear
nt
applique
placement
NAP
fold line
HEAD
Cut 2 from inner ear fabric

STRETCH FRONT (A)
Cut 2 from main fabric
EAR (B)
NAP
pg. 2/3
opening for turning

NECK RUFF (I)
STRETCH
Cut 1 from fur fabric
wing
placement
STRETCH
NAP
BODY (F)
NAP
STRETCH
Cut 4 from main
ARM (G)
fabric
NAP
pg. 3/3
g nin
NAP
for tur
g
openin
STRETCH
cu
lin ing
tt
e
HEAD BACK (E)
Cu W
¼” fro G
t
www.cholyknight.com
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4 IN
eam pu (H
P A T T E R N
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Moogle Plush
lowa fab
nc ric
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NA
P
EYES
applique
trace & cut
1 each of black NOSE BLUSH
applique applique
trace & cut trace & cut
1 of red 2 of pink

Moogle Plush Sewing Pattern

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Moogle Plush Sewing Pattern

Uploaded by

Copyright:

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moogle plush

a free sewing pattern by

Kupo! Fans of Final Fantasy are sure to love

The hardest part of this plush is all of the tiny

sew desu ne?

materials & tools:

micro fleece minky vs. felt

sew desu ne?

printing the pattern:

At the print dialog box, check the box that says

You can trace the patterns onto a different paper,

cutting the fabric:

inner ear fabric wing fabric 7” wide

7” wide 14” wide

before you begin:

sew desu ne?

1. prepare the face applique

fuse nose add eyes and blush stitch in place

2. fuse the applique

sew desu ne?

2a. other applique options

3. sew the darts

align inner ear to

4. sew the ears

sew desu ne?

6. sew the pom pom darts

align long sew along turn tube

7. sew the pom pom stalk

sew desu ne?

center stalk over stalk is

stuff pom pom

9. stuff the pom pom

sew desu ne?

10. stitch the pom pom closed

a. If you haven't already, locate

sew desu ne?

12. sew the head back

sew trim seam

13. sew the head

sew desu ne?

stuff nose so fill rest of ladder

14. stuff and close the head

15. sew the body darts

sew desu ne?

leave open clip seam allow-

16. sew the body

17. stuff and close the body kupo!

sew desu ne?

18. sew the arms

stuff align arms whip stitch

19. attach the arms whip

sew desu ne?

a. Take your finished head

21. sew the wings

sew desu ne?

22. turn and stuff the wings

a. Place the cut end of one wing

23. attach the wings