Wire Wrapping Projects

Learn How to Wire Wrap Jewelry:
6 Free Wire Wrapping Jewelry Projects
Gone fishing chunky carnelian ring bird's nest pendant
by Monica han p. 4 by christine hayne p. 7 by sally stevens p. 9
pendulum pendant Bangle Bracelet Ballpoint earrings
by melissa senetar p. 12 by CONNIE FOX p. 15 by KAREN TIHOR p. 19
basic techniques p. 22
Contents 2
gone fishing bracelet
tools & supplies Adorable wrapped fish links.
• 20-gauge dead soft wire, 3'
• 26-gauge dead soft wire, 12' SKILL LEVEL
• 4mm Crystallized™—Swarovski Elements
BY MONICA HAN
bicones, 6
• Size 0 crimp tubes, 12
• Round nose pliers Summer’s here. While you’re enjoying lazy summer
• Chain nose pliers, 2 pairs
days, make yourself this cute bracelet. Materials for this
project are for a 7" bracelet with six fish links. Each fish
• Flush cutters
link is about 1.15" long, the last one for the clasp is a little
• Ruler
longer. You can adjust the size of the fish links to fit your
Photo of finished piece by Jim Lawson; all other photos bracelet length.
courtesy of the author This is freeform weaving. You can also tighten the weav-
ing for a more uniformed look.
© F+W Media, Inc. All rights reserved. F+W Media grants permission for any or all pages in this issue to be copied for personal use. beadingdaily.com
page 4
1 Cut 6" of 20g wire. Meaure ½" in
from one end and bend the wire 2 Use chain nose pliers to hold
both wire ends ½" in from the 3 Wrap the short end a couple of
times around both wires, trim,
back against itself. Squeeze the two bend. Bend the short end up. Hold and press the wire end against the
ends together. both wire ends at ¾" if making the last back. Leave a space of ¼" to the left
fish link for the bracelet. of the loop you just made, and bend
the long end up.
4 Begin making the fish at the

tail. Use your fingers or pliers to 5 Wrap the long end around the
¼" leftover space from Step 4 6 Cut 2' of 26g wire. Anchor this
weaving wire onto the tail with a
make the fish frame. The fish should a couple of times, trim, and press the couple wraps.
be about 1" long and ½" wide. Draw wire end against the back.
a template to follow the pattern if
needed. Finish back at the tail with the
long end up.
7 Wrap the long end around the

bottom of the tail once, so the 8 Bring the wire through the fish
to the front of the frame. Go up 9 As you near the front of the
fish, add a crimp tube, a 4mm
wire ends up behind the fish frame. and over the upper frame. Wrap once bicone, and another crimp tube to the
so the wire is behind the frame. Bring wire. Make sure to leave space in front
the wire through to the front of frame. of the eye to link another fish. Hold the
Go down and over the bottom. Con- bead in position, and press the two
tinue weaving until you’re about ¼" crimp tubes to lock the bead in place.
from the mouth. Squeeze the wraps
together if needed.
page 5
Monica Han
has been beading since 2002 and
teaching since 2005. She has won
Swarovski® and Fire Mountain
Gems™ and Beads design contests.
Her jewelry has been featured in
several beading magazines. Monica
can be reached at mhan@dream-
10 Finish wrapping by simply coil-

ing the wire around the front of 11 Bend the wire at each end of
the frame with round nose pliers
beads.biz.
the frame. Trim and press in the end. to make a hook. Connect to the nose
Repeat Steps 1–10 to make five more of next fish. Close the hooks until you
fish links. get to the last fish link. The last link
should have a longer hook, because it
will be the clasp. Bend the fish links a
little so the fish are curvy and appear
to be in motion.
wiretips
• Do not overwork the 26g wire, or
else it will break. Straighten the wire
often to avoid kinks.
page 6
chunky carnelian ring
TOOLS & SUPPLIES Natural stone paired with sterling silver.

• 18- or 24-gauge sterling half hard or
SKILL LEVEL
gold-filled wire, 36"
• Chunky carnelian nugget bead, or
BY CHRISTINE HAYNES
other stone with holes that will
accommodate the wire
• Ring sizer or measuring tape This beautiful carnelian nugget is perfectly at home nested within a hand-
• Flush cutters wrapped ring of sterling wire. The nesting effect is purposely unstructured, yet
• Ring mandrel
elegant. The process for creating this ring actually happened by accident. I cut
way too much wire for the original design I had in mind, and I didn’t want it
• Small rubber mallet
to go to waste. The rest is history. This ring is so quick and easy, I made mine
• File
while watching television.
Photo of finished piece by Jim Lawson; all other
photos courtesy of the author.
Place the ring on the mandrel, at a point that is 1⁄2 a size smaller than the
1 Using a ring sizer or measuring
tape, measure your ring size. Cut 2 finished size. Wrap both of the wires around the mandrel in opposite direc-
a piece of wire approximately 36" tions. Keep the wires flat and parallel to one another on opposite sides of the
long. String and center the stone on stone, so you have a “top” wire and a “bottom” wire. Wrap the wires around the
the wire. Fold wire in half, keeping the mandrel two or three times, unless you prefer a wider base. For a wider base,
stone centered. cut a longer length of wire.
3 To create the nest, keep the ring

on the mandrel, and firmly wrap 4 Leave about 6" of wire on each
end (a left wire and a right wire). 5 To secure, wrap the wires tightly
and closely together around the
the two wires one at a time around Remove the ring from the mandrel. band of the ring at the base of the
the stone, until you achieve the Starting on one side and repeating on stone, where the base meets the
desired effect. Wrap the top wire the other, loop each wire down band, directly under the nest. Snip the
once, and the bottom wire once, and through the inside of the nest, thread wires, and tuck the ends under. If nec-
repeat. The look is purposely freeform, the wires down and up around the essary, file the ends lightly.
just be sure to wrap firmly, to prevent base. Tighten the nest by tugging on
the nest from unraveling. the wires gently.
Christine Haynes
wiretip
has designed jewelry for
talk show hosts, fashion
shows and photo shoots.
Her work and articles have been featured
in several publications and on various web • 18g wire will make a chunkier ring.
sites such as Sister Speak Online 24g wire will make a more deli-
6 Put the ring back on the mandrel.
Gently tap the ring down with a
Magazine, and Fire Mountain Gems and
Beads. Christine can be contacted through
cate nest.
rubber mallet, to harden the wire and her Web site at: www.fezelry.com
size the ring. Repeat until the ring is
the desired size and shape. Be careful
to avoid the stone.
bird’s
nest
pendant
tools & supplies
• 12-gauge copper wire, 5"
• 20-gauge copper wire, 36"
• 3 glass egg beads on a wire
• Round nose pliers
• Flat nose pliers
• Flush cutters Copper wire with lampworked eggs.
• Chasing hammer
• Household claw hammer SKILL LEVEL
• Steel bench block
BY SALLY STEVENS
• Mandrel, ½" diameter
• Dapping block and punches
• Metal file Being a long-time bird enthusiast and photographer, all
things bird-related are inspiring to me. Add my addiction to wire
Resources: Glass egg beads on wire available
from Sunroom Studios, sunroomstudios
wrapping, and this sweet bird’s nest pendant evolved. To make
online.com the nest more welcoming, I asked my lampwork artist daughter,
Shannon, to make three tiny glass eggs to enhance my nest. Voilá!
Photo of finished piece by Jim Lawson, all other photos
courtesy of the author.
page 9
1 To form the branch, cut 5" of 12g
wire, and file the ends until smooth 2 While still holding the coil in the
jaws, gently curve the tail of wire 3 Flatten the curves and the un-
coiled end of the wire slightly with
with a metal file. Flatten the wire 2" into an S shape. If necessary, use an- a chasing hammer.
from one end with a chasing hammer. other pair of round nose pliers to help
Coil the flattened end around the jaw of curve the wire.
round nose pliers three times.
4 Take the 20g wire, leave a 5" tail,

and start coiling it around the 5 Take the bundle of wire off the
mandrel, and start to form the bot- 6 Place the nest in the dapping
block, where it fits snugly, and use
mandrel in a freeform criss-cross fash- tom of the nest by weaving the long tail the punch that fits into the nest. Dap
ion, until only 18" of uncoiled wire is left. in and out of the nest’s side wires, until lightly with a household claw hammer
you have a base. Wrap the 20g wire to form the nest and work-harden the
around the entire side of the nest verti- wire. The nest must be firm and well-
cally a few times to hold it together. Be formed to hold its shape.
sure to leave two 5" tails.
8 Use the two 5" tails to connect the

nest to the branch. Wrap snugly 9 Add three glass eggs by placing
them into the bowl of the nest, 10 Bring any leftover tails from
the eggs to the top of the nest,
against the curve with the coil, and go and wrapping their wire tails around the and coil them with the tips of round
through the nest wires and around the nest to secure. nose pliers to resemble tendrils. Tuck
branch until the nest is secure. the tendrils in so they won’t catch on
anything.
page 10
wiretips
• The pendant may be worn on
a ribbon, chain or collar or used
as an ornament. Try using ster-
ling wire or different colored
11 Cut the tails of 20g wire to
1½" and spiral them toward the
eggs for a new look. Sub-
stitute pearls for the glass
nest. Bend the spirals away from the
eggs, or try using half round
nest, flatten them slightly with the chas-
wire for the branch.
ing hammer, and place them back into
position. Patina the piece using liver-
of-sulfur, and polish with steel wool if
you wish.
Sally Stevens
is a published wire wrap artist and jewelry designer from Maryland,
who teaches locally and at several of the Interweave shows. She and
her lampwork artist daughter Shannon Stevens sell their work at bead
shows, primarily in the Mid-Atlantic region. They can be reached
through their Web site: sunroomstudiosonline.com.
BEADWORK MAGAZINE
SUBSCRIBE TODAY!
Discover the inner bead artist in you.
Beadwork is a must-have for those of you who love making
beaded jewelry. You’ll discover innovative beadweaving
techniques and artist tips and tricks to build on your skills.
PLUS you’ll discover great design advice from editors, other
well-known designers, and talented readers just like you.
beadworkmagazine.com
page 11
pendulum
pendant
tools & supplies
• 21-gauge half round half hard wire, 12"
• 22-gauge square half hard wire, 27"
• 24-gauge colored craft wire, 36"
• 18mm lampwork lentil bead
• Flat nose pliers
Hourglass wirework with a floating bead. • Chain nose pliers

• Round nose pliers
SKILL LEVEL • Flush cutters
• Ruler
BY MELISSA SENETAR, Ph. D. • Ultra-fine point marker
• Medium round ink pen, or 5/16" round dowel
This pendant uses wrapping and coiling techniques to • Painter’s tape
cage an artisan lampwork glass bead. With an area of open Resources: Wire from Rio Grande, riogrande.
space left above the bead, this unique design gives the com. Lampwork bead from Linda Pennington,
illusion of floating. The woven bail provides an extra pop of lindygirl82082@yahoo.com. Complete kits
color and gives the piece a sizzling hourglass shape that is from PhbeaD.com.
sure to bring the wearer compliments.
Photo of finished piece by Jim Lawson, all other photos
courtesy of the author.
page 12
1 Cut three 9" lengths of 22g wire.
Bundle the three wires with the 2 Make a hook near the end of the
21g wire using the tips of the 3 Bind by wrapping the 21g wire
around all three square wires 15
flush ends together, and tape. Mea- chain nose pliers. Attach the hook of times. Slide the binding to the center
sure 4½" from the end, and mark the the 21g wire to the left of the center to show, so the eighth wrap is on the
center. mark with the flat side of the 21g wire mark. Trim the ends and secure with
flush against the square wires. flat nose pliers. Measure 7/8" from
each side of binding, and mark. Re-
move the tape as needed.
4 Make another hook with the 21g

wire as in Step 2 and place it 5 Pry the square wires apart
between the side and center 6 Position the lampwork bead in
middle of center wrap with the
on one of the marks. Wrap five times bindings, either by pulling them open trimmed wire ends against the bead.
to show. Trim the ends and secure. by hand or using pliers. Check that the Shape the cage around the bead. Pull
Repeat for the other 7/8” mark. You bindings are secure. Repeat for other the wire around bead on both sides.
should have three bindings. side. You should have two “bubbles” The bead should stay in position within
along the bundle. the wire cage.
7 Place flat nose pliers flush against

the top binding, and bend the 8 Make another hook with 21g wire
as in Step 2. Bind the six wires 9 Remove all the tape. Bend the
front two wires down to make a
wires toward you slightly. Repeat for together by wrapping five times to V-shape. These wires will serve as the
the other side. Align the six wire ends show. Push the binding down flush frame for the handwoven bail.
back to back. Bundle the six square with the top bends in the cage wires.
wires together with tape. Trim the ends and secure.
page 13
10 Secure one end of the 24g
colored wire with a couple tight 11 Bring the colored wire across
and under the other wire of the 12 Continue weaving as in Steps
10–11 to cover 1¼" of the
wraps around the left wire at the base base of the V. Anchor another com- V. Trim and secure the ends. For a
of the V. plete wrap around this wire. tapered bail, weave approximately ¾"
of the V, and then pinch the V wires
toward one another, and continue to
weave to 1¼".
13 Wrap the bail around a pen or

dowel to shape. 14 Wrap the two ends of the V
frame with one 22g square wire 15 Pull the two wires from the front
upward, and pull the two wires
from behind. Bind by wrapping five from the back to the front. You should
times to show. Trim the ends have one wire sticking straight up
and secure. from the back, and four wires sticking
straight out from the front. Position the
bail upright using the pen or dowel.
Melissa Senetar, Ph.D.

began beading as a fashionable way
to relax from dissertation research.
After receiving a Doctorate degree
in Biochemistry, she continued her
research as a Postdoctoral Research
Fellow at the University of Wisconsin,
and continued learning about
16 Trim all five remaining wires to
/ " Place the round nose pliers
7
8 17 Spiral the front four wires as in
Step 16 to form a bundle. Fin-
beading as a member of the Madison
Bead Society. She resides in Berea, Ky.
at the very tip of the back wire, and ish by positioning all the spirals using with her husband and two cats. To see
begin to make a spiral. Continue spi- chain nose pliers. more of her handcrafted chain maille,
raling using chain nose pliers. Position wire wrapped, and beaded jewelry,
the spiral the base of the bail. visit her Web site at PhbeaD.com.
page 14
Bangle Bracelet
design by Connie Fox
Materials
1½' of 14-gauge copper dead soft wire
1½' of 14-gauge sterling silver dead soft wire
2' of 18-gauge sterling silver dead soft wire
Beads and spacers with holes large enough for
14-gauge wire
Head pins or eye pins for optional
embellishments
4 sterling silver jump rings, approx. 5mm inner
diameter
Liver-of-sulfur
Tools
Long round nose pliers
Frank DeSantis
Ball peen or chasing hammer

Steel bench block or anvil
Wire cutters
Chain nose pliers
Indelible ink pen
Practice with copper wire first before moving to the
more expensive sterling silver. This beginner project
includes step-by-step photographs.
Design combinations. Combine mixed metals, such as silver, brass/

Choose the beads you’d like to incorporate into your finished bronze, and copper. Use high polished beads with clean lines to
piece. I have chosen lampwork beads made by Donna Struthers create a contemporary design. Use beads from one area of the
that are earthy and tribal. African bronze and Karen Hilltribe world to develop a theme.
beads complement the lampwork beads. Notice how I use the Measurements
design principle of repetition in this brangle. The following My favorite brangle design is made up of a central section and
elements are repeated throughout the entire piece: “eye” two arms. One of the arms includes the clasp. The mandrel
beads, the colors black and terracotta, bronze beads, and silver measurements of these three pieces depends on the size of
spacers. Using repetition allows the eye to travel around the your wrist, the diameter of the jaws of your round nose pliers,
brangle and gives continuity to your work. and the size of the beads you use. You will need to experiment
For other design options: Use a color wheel to achieve with your copper wire to arrive at your ideal mandrel
complementary, analogous, or split complementary color measurement.
page 15
The brangle in this article fits a 6" wrist and was made with Step 4 With an indelible pen, mark the bottom of your round
beads that range from 10-12mm in diameter. The mandrel nose pliers. Grasp one end of the 14-gauge wire at the mark on
lengths for the three pieces are: central section — 4-3/4", left the bottom of your long round nose pliers.
arm — 4", and right arm — 3-3/4". It isn’t necessary for the arms Rotate your hand away from your body to form a loop.
to be the same length, in fact, I prefer an asymmetrical design.
Central Section
Step 1 Cut 2' of 18-gauge sterling silver wire to use for coiling.
Place the 18-gauge wire on top of a piece of 14-gauge wire
(copper or silver) to form a cross.
Step 5 Introduce the tips of your chain nose pliers into the joint
and rotate towards your body.
Step 2 Rotate the upper wire away from your body. Continue
rotating the 18-gauge wire onto the 14-gauge to form a coil.
When the upper, 18-gauge wire is completely coiled around the
14-gauge mandrel, reverse the piece of 14-gauge wire and coil
the remaining 18-gauge wire.
Step 6 Place your round nose pliers in the loop and close the
gap. Now you must determine where to cut the other end of
the mandrel wire in order to get an eye of the same size.
Using the same long nose pliers, grasp the end of a 4-5" piece
of 14-gauge copper wire, at the mark and with no wire peeking
through the jaws of the pliers. Rotate your hand away from
your body to form a loop.
Step 3 Determine how long you want the central section to be.
Mine is 2½" long, not including the eyes. String beads, spacers,
and coiling on to a long piece of 14-gauge wire.
page 16
Step 7 Mark the joint with an indelible pen. Unravel the wire Add to this, the measurement for your beads, spacers, and
and measure from the ink mark to the end of the wire. This is coiling (mine is 1-3/8"), plus the allowance for your eye. I
the length of wire it will take to make an identical eye. suggest you work with a little more wire than you think you will
need — it’s easy to snip off some, but not easy to add.
Step 8 Cut the 14-gauge mandrel wire, allowing for the

additional wire needed to make the second eye — the
measurement from Step 7. Make the second eye the same way
you did the first. When you place the central section on a flat
surface, the eyes should be perpendicular to the surface. Step 11 Start this piece by making the clasp first. Hammer ¼"
of one end of your 14-gauge wire on a steel bench block (anvil)
until it is pretty flat.
With your round nose pliers, make a small loop. I have used
small round nose pliers in the image, but, the tips of your long
round nose pliers may be used as well.
Step 12 Place the wire (right next to the small loop) in the
Arm One bottom of your long round nose pliers.
Step 9 Determine how long you want the arm to be. The Using the bottom of your round nose pliers, rotate your hand
sample is 1¼" long, not including the eyes. Follow the same away from your body and in the opposite direction of the small
procedure that you used for the central section. There is one loop.
difference — one eye will be parallel to the surface when your
brangle is placed on a table, the other eye (the one that will
connect to the central section) will be perpendicular to the
surface.
Step 13 Hammer the curve, and extend your hammering ¼"

Arm Two
beyond the small loop. This will act as a stop so that your beads
Step 10 You will need approximately 1½" for the clasp. This
don’t slide onto the clasp.
measurement will vary depending on the diameter of the jaws
Use a bead with a fairly small hole at the end so it is less likely
of your round nose jaws.
to slide.
page 17
Step 14 String your beads, spacers and coiling onto the removing too much coiling since this allows the brangle to
mandrel wire. Make an eye on the end of the mandrel and be curve. If the brangle is too small, decide where you will add
sure it’s perpendicular when you place the arm on a flat surface. length. Work in copper until you get a good fit. Disassemble the
brangle, measure your mandrel wires, and reproduce
in silver.
Embellishments
Step 16 Consider hammering the eyes for a little extra polish,
but, make sure you have a good fit before doing this.
Dangles made with accent beads on head or eye pins can also
Putting it all together and making adjustments be added. And lastly, oxidize your brangle in liver-ofsulfur
Step 15 When you reach this last step, you will thank your to achieve depth and contrast in the coiling.
lucky beads you are working in copper wire. Link the sections Putting it all together and making adjustments
together using 2 jump rings at each join. My jump rings are
5mm inner diameter, but you can use the size you like. Connie Fox is a full time wire artist and frequent contributor
Place the brangle on your wrist and think “Goldielocks.” Too to Lapidary Journal. You can view her work, learn how to make
big? Too small? Or, just right! If the brangle is too large your own jump rings and eye pins along with other basic wire
you have a big decision to make — which of those treasured skills, and contact her through her Web site,
beads are you going to eliminate? Be careful about www.conniefox.com.
Looking for Great

Design Ideas?
Step by Step Wire Jewelry
is the only magazine devoted to
bringing you the very best in wire!
Order Step by Step Wire Jewelry today

stepbystepwirejewelry.com
page 18
Ballpoint Earrings
design by Karen Tihor
Originally published in Easy Wire, 2007
These are easy little earrings that can

be made very quickly with the simplest
of tools. The earring is worn by actually
winding the spiraled part of the wire
through the ear, making them easy to
wear, but next to impossible to lose!
Once you’ve made your first pair, you’ll
be struck by the many variations possible
with this design. Try using round beads,
oval beads, stone chips, or don’t use any
beads at all. Try hammering flat the end
of the wire, or even wrapping the inner
wire around a tiny knitting needle for a
spiral within a spiral!
Frank DeSantis
Materials
8" 20-gauge round
sterling silver wire, half-hard
6 6mm garnet rondelles
KAREN TIHOR grew up around jewelry making and designs her
2 2mm sterling rounds
own chainmail and wire jewelry. She is a juried member of the
International Guild of Wire Jewelry Artists and an active member Tools
of the online Creative Wire Jewelry forum on Delphi. Round nose pliers
Chain nose pliers
Wire cutters
Ballpoint pen barrel with
the ink tube removed
File or cup burr
page 19
Step 1: Cut your silver wire into two 4" lengths. Use the very Step 6: Bend the wire about 90° so that the spiral is
tip of your round nose pliers to make a tiny loop in the end of centered on the wire tail.
each wire.
Step 7: Slide your beads onto the wire so that they rest on the
Step 2: Use the tip of your chain nose pliers to squeeze the loop.
loop closed.
Step 8: Use the tips of your round nose pliers to form a 90°
Step 3: Grip the loop sideways with your chain nose pliers. bend in the wire.
Step 4: Bend the wire around the loop to form a spiral. Step 9: Without changing the position of your pliers, bend the
wire back over the end of the top jaw as shown in the picture.
Step 5: Use the tips of your chain nose pliers to grip the wire
just above the spiral.
Step 10: Grip the wire just past the bend with the tips of your
chain nose pliers.
page 20
Step 11: Bend the wire tail back just enough to align it in a Step 15: Wrap the wire tail tightly around the barrel of the pen
straight line with the beads. This slight bend in the wire will to form a smooth spiral.
ensure that the beads stay in place on the wires.
Step 16: Slide the earring off the pen barrel and use your
Step 12: Use your thumb to hold the wire steady as you bend fingers to shape the spiral to your liking. You may need to use
the tail over and around the pen barrel to form a hook. the tips of your chain nose pliers to gently coax the end of the
wire tail to curve smoothly. Form the second earring in the
mirror image of the first.
Step 13: Slide the beaded part of your earring into the barrel
of the pen and hold the wire tail firmly against the barrel of the
pen. Once you’re happy with the shapes of your earrings, use your
file to smooth the ends of the wires. Remember, these are the
wires that will go through the ear, so smoother is better!
Step 14: Bend the wire tail sharply to one side. You will do this
in the opposite direction for the other earring to create a mirror
image.
page 21
Basic Techniques
These basic instructions are adapted from The Beader’s Companion (Interweave, 2005).
Don’t have this popular book? Visit interweavestore.com.
s i m p l e loo p O p enin g J u m p R in g s C oi l s
To form a simple loop, use flat-nose To open a jump ring, To make a coil, use one hand to hold the end of your
pliers to make a 90° bend at least ½" from grasp each side of its opening wire against a mandrel. With the other hand, wrap
the end of the wire. Use round-nose pliers with a pair of pliers. Don’t pull the wire around the mandrel in tight loops. To
to grasp the wire after the bend; roll the apart. Instead, twist in oppo- remove the coil, slide it off the mandrel and cut.
pliers toward the bend, but not past it, to site directions so that you can Add vertical loops on either end to use the coil as
preserve the 90° bend. Use your thumb to continue open and close without dis- is, or cut the coil at certain intervals to make jump
the wrap around the nose of the pliers. Trim the torting the shape. rings or split rings.
wire next to the bend. Open a simple loop just as
you would a jump ring.
W ra p p e d - loo p b ai l s
W ra p p e d Loo p Wrapped-loop bails turn side-drilled beads,
usually teardrops, into pendants. Center the bead
on a 3" or longer piece of wire. Bend both ends
of the wire up the sides and across the top of the S p ira l s
bead. Bend one end straight up at the center of the To start a spiral, make a small loop at the end of a
To form a wrapped loop, use flat-nose pliers to make a bead, then wrap the other wire with round-nose pliers. Enlarge the piece by
90° bend at least 2" from the end of the wire. Use wire around it to form a few holding on to the spiral with chain-nose pliers and
round-nose pliers to grasp the wire after the bend; coils. Form a wrapped loop pushing the wire over the previous coil with your
roll the pliers toward the bend, but not past it, to with the straight-up wire, thumb.
preserve the 90° bend. Use your thumb to continue wrapping it back down over
the wrap around the nose of the pliers. Wrap the tail the already formed coils.
tightly down the neck of the wire to create a couple Trim the excess wire.
of coils. Trim the excess wire to finish.
Do u b l e s i m p l e loo p
To form a double simple loop, make the
90º bend at least 1" from the end of the
wire. Make a simple loop and continue
wrapping the wire around the round-
nose pliers to form two complete loops.
page 22

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Learn How to Wire Wrap Jewelry:

6 Free Wire Wrapping Jewelry Projects

Gone fishing chunky carnelian ring bird's nest pendant

by Monica han p. 4 by christine hayne p. 7 by sally stevens p. 9

pendulum pendant Bangle Bracelet Ballpoint earrings

by melissa senetar p. 12 by CONNIE FOX p. 15 by KAREN TIHOR p. 19

4 Begin making the fish at the

7 Wrap the long end around the

10 Finish wrapping by simply coil-

TOOLS & SUPPLIES Natural stone paired with sterling silver.

3 To create the nest, keep the ring

4 Take the 20g wire, leave a 5" tail,

8 Use the two 5" tails to connect the

Hourglass wirework with a floating bead. • Chain nose pliers

4 Make another hook with the 21g

7 Place flat nose pliers flush against

13 Wrap the bail around a pen or

Melissa Senetar, Ph.D.

Ball peen or chasing hammer

Design combinations. Combine mixed metals, such as silver, brass/

Step 8 Cut the 14-gauge mandrel wire, allowing for the

Step 13 Hammer the curve, and extend your hammering ¼"

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These are easy little earrings that can

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