Clean Beauty in Hair Care

Market Overview
November, 2020

Smart Science to improve livesTM

 A Lifestyle Change
The ‘conscious consumer’ is a mega trend which
encompasses health and well-being, safety and
sustainability. The growing understanding of this
is impacting consumer buying decisions across all
markets.

Popular values:
- Sustainability – ingredients and packaging
- Safety of ingredients
- Veganism
Smart Science to improve livesTM
 Brand Watch – Brandless™ Life

The beauty and personal care category of Brandless Life places a

large emphasis on ‘free-from’ ingredients. In fact, they have a list of
over 400 ingredients that they formulate without in this category.

Smart Science to improve livesTM Source: brandless.com

What is Clean Beauty?

“It means a non-toxic product that is made without a long, ever-

evolving list of ingredients linked to harmful health effects from
hormone disruption, to cancer, to plain-old skin irritation. To name
just a few: parabens, phthalates, Silicones, PEGs, ethanolamine's,
chemical sunscreens, synthetic fragrance, BHT, BHA.”
Clean Beauty embraces both natural and man-made ingredients,
putting the focus on safety and sustainability.

Smart Science to improve livesTM Goop.com

 How Clean is Clean?

There is no ‘one size fits

Safety of
all’ for clean beauty. It is ingredients
Sustainability
related to the personal
values and preferences Digital
held by consumers
Media

Fact vs Fear?
Clean Beauty
Smart Science to improve livesTM
 Principles of Clean Beauty Brands

Safety Transparency Responsibility

Smart Science to improve livesTM

Certification Builds Credibility & Transparency

Smart Science to improve livesTM

Consumers Demand for Clean Hair Care
Free-from claims are growing in popularity across the whole personal
care market, but how does this weigh up for each category?

Skin Care +17.6%

Colour Cosmetics
+53%
Soap, Bath and Shower
+26.7%
Hair Care
+121.8%
(% increase in free-from claims per category 2014- 2019)

Smart Science to improve livesTM Mintel GNPD

“Free from” Claims in Hair Care
Update Latam
Global launches in Hair Care Brazil launches in Hair Care
Total 14.651 NPD Total 1.158 NPD
(June 2019 – July 2020) (June 2019 – July 2020)
12.000
1.000
10.000 900
800
8.000
700
600
6.000
500
4.000 400
300
2.000 200
100
0 0

Smart Science to improve livesTM Source: GNPD Mintel 2020

 “Free From” Lists By Goop and Sephora
Sephora Goop Additional Information by Goop
Parabens Parabens
2-bromo-2-nitropropane-1,3 diol (bronopol), diazolidinyl urea,
Formaldehydes, Formaldehyde-
Formaldehyde Releasers DMDM hydantoin, imidazolidinyl urea, sodium
releasing Agents
hydroxymethylglycinate, quaternium-15
Phthalates Phthalates DBP, DEHP, DEP
<1% synthetic fragrances Fragrance Resorcinol
Ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid, cacium disodium EDTA, disodium
EDTA
EDTA, tetrasodium EDTA
1,4-dioxane Contamination Look out for PEGs, laureth and ceteareth
Sulfates SLS and SLES Sulfates SLS and SLES
Ethanolamine (ETA), Diethanolamine (DEA), cocamide DEA,
Ethanolamines
monoethanolamine (MEA), triethanolamine (TEA)
Avobenzone, Benzophenone, Homosalate, Octinoxate, Octisalate,
Oxybenzone Chemical Sunscreens
Octocrylene, Oxybenzone
Benzalkonium Chloride
Butylated Hydroxyanisole (BHA) &
Butylated Hydroxytoluene (BHT)
Coal Tar Coal Tar Aminophenol, Diaminobenzene, Phenylenediamine
Hydroquinone Hydroquinone
Methylisothiazolinone and
Methylchloroisothiazolinone
Thimerosal (Mercury)
Toluene
Triclocarban Triclocarban
Mineral Oil PPD
Retinyl Palmitate Butanol & Butyl-___
Triclosan Propyl-____
Smart Science to improve livesTM
 Market Update
• There is no ‘one size fits all’ for clean beauty and is often part of
a bigger lifestyle change

• The rise in digital media usage has meant an influx of

Clean Hair Care

misinformation and scaremongering around ingredient safety
and usage in cosmetic products

• Sustainability value: consumers are expecting more

transparency in the supply chain and ingredients usage in their
products

• Hair care is experiencing the highest growth in free-from claims

across all personal care categories
Smart Science to improve livesTM
 Clean Beauty

Market insights

Smart Science to improve livesTM

Market Insights: Clean Beauty

Smart Science to improve livesTM Source: https://yarokhair.com/

Market Insights
Briogeo is a six-free haircare line with
products that are 93-100 percent naturally-
derived, as well as sulfate-, silicone-, and
paraben-free. With formulas aimed at
volumizing, de-frizzing, and nurturing
naturally curly hair

Smart Science to improve livesTM https://briogeohair.com/pages/why-briogeo

Market Insights

Hask Tea Tree Oil & Rosemary 5-in-1,

Singapore: revitalising spray is free from
cruelty, sulfate, parabens, phthalates, gluten,
drying alcohol and artificial colors
Leave-In Spray is described as a miracle product with
five 'amazing' benefits: cools and soothes hair and
scalp; detangles; conditions and tames frizz hair; adds
shine; and provides thermal protection.

Smart Science to improve livesTM Source: GNPD Mintel 2020

Market insights

Smart Science to improve livesTM Source: www.souvie.com.br

Market Insights
Phytoervas, Brazil
Products are free from cruelty, animal
ingredients, sulphates, colorants and
parabens
Phytoervas Curls contains Phytocomplex, a whole grains
cereal complex with flaxseed, quinoa and wheat, said to
offer powerful nourishment, restore and act against aging.
Developed to hydrate with its with its important natural
active like pracaxi and baobab oils, that nourish and define
curls.

Smart Science to improve livesTM Source: GNPD Mintel 2020

Market insights

Real Purity is one of the pioneers of all-

Ursa Major believes in plant-
natural, non-toxic cosmetic, skincare, and
based formulas that are simple,
body care products. The brand's commitment
quick, and effective—because
to clean beauty was born from a background
we’re all too busy for those
in biochemistry and a desire to replace
multi-step routines. And the Go
harmful ingredients with high-quality
Easy Shampoo checks all of
botanicals that are suitable for even the most
those boxes, leaving you with
sensitive skin. These shampoos are
squeaky clean hair and a
affordable and tailored to fit specific hair
healthy scalp. Formulated using
needs—whether you're searching for a
macadamia, bergamot, licorice,
product to repair, replenish, or simply wash
and coconut-derived surfactant.
your hair

Smart Science to improve livesTM Source: www.thegoodtrade.com

 Waterless Trend
“Water is set to become a precious
commodity as consumption outstrips
supply. The more consumer
becomes aware of this, the more
beauty brands will need to change
how they manufacture and
formulate products to limit their
dependence on water.”
- Mintel

Smart Science to improve livesTM

 “Beauty brands are starting to look
Waterless Trend at processes and ingredients that
ensure products limit their
dependence on water.”
(Theresa Yee, senior beauty editor, WGSN)

Consumers are open to new

alternative formats for traditional
household products. Consider
introducing new options such as
waterless soaps, shampoos and
skincare.

Brands must educate people about the eco

merits of waterless formulas and stress
convenience and sensorial differences (vs
liquids) to be competitive.

Smart Science to improve livesTM

Waterless – bar formats for Hair Care
‘plastic free’, clean beauty, vegan

Smart Science to improve livesTM

 Clean Beauty in Hair Care

Croda Solutions
Ingredients &
Formulations
Insights

Smart Science to improve livesTM

Croda Proposals for Clean Hair Care
Mild Super/Multi Combing &
Cleansing Conditionng Styling

Free from ingredients with proven performance

Smart Science to improve livesTM

Arlasilk™ EFA & Lustreplex™
• Lustreplex™ - Healthy Hair Active
• Excellent conditioning without build-up
• Provided frizz control.
• Delivers shine retention
• Detangling and conditioning benefits.

• Arlasilk™ EFA - Conditioning Performance Enhancer

• Gentle cleansing, anti-irritation effects
• High substantivity, long-lasting and conditioning enhancer by coaservate
• Excellent compatibly with a wide range of cationic polymers
• Improves combing and detangling on both dry and wet hair

Smart Science to improve livesTM

Versathix™
▪ INCI: PEG-150 Pentaerythrityl Tetrastearate (and) PPG-2 Hydroxyethyl Cocamide (and) Aqua

▪ Use levels: 1 – 5%

▪ Rheology modifier with High Bio-based content

▪ Effective at low concentrations

▪ Ease of use (cold process, liquid form)
▪ Versatility – effective thickening in a wide range of systems
▪ No impact on foaming
▪ Formulators seek versatile thickeners which are effective at low concentration and are easy to
formulate with, for example they are cold processable and in liquid form. An ideal thickener will not
affect the afterfeel of a formulation and can be formulated into a traditional or sulphate free
system.

Smart Science to improve livesTM

Crodasinic LS30 mild cleasing & gentle foam

Crodasinic LS30

Decyl Glucoside

Smart Science to improve livesTM

Crodazoquat TM MCC
MultiCultural Conditioner for Damaged Hair

▪ Versatile conditioner: enables conditioning on wide range of ethnic

hair types, including Caucasian, Asian, Brazilian, and African

▪ Delivers consumer-perceivable sensory benefits

▪ Promotes hair health

▪ Restores hydrophobicity
▪ Enhances hair aesthetics
▪ Performs especially well on damaged hair

▪ Highly efficient conditioner

▪ 70% cationic activity, no glycols, naturally-derived

Smart Science to improve livesTM

Crodamine TM SC
Static Control Conditioner
A novel conditioning alternative to traditional quats for customers seeking to
formulate without sulphates or chlorides

▪ Excellent conditioning
▪ Provides softness to the hair fiber
▪ Does not contain sulfates and chlorides
▪ Improves hydrophobicity
▪ Consumer-perceivable colour retention benefit
▪ Excellent wet and dry conditioning
▪ Mild and Low irritation to the scalp
▪ 100% active
▪ High natural content (77%)

Smart Science to improve livesTM

CrodazosoftTM DBQ
Softness Plus a Pack of Consumer Benefits
▪ Self-emulsifying quaternary optimized to deliver softness from
conditioners
▪ Softens virgin hair and dyed hair
▪ Softens grey hair for an anti-ageing effect

▪ Provides excellent conditioning and improved combability

▪ Defends against cuticle abrasion from combing

▪ Promotes delivery of lipophilic actives

▪ Provides colourwash fastness benefits for coloured hair

Smart Science to improve livesTM

SensaLuxe TM DF
Dry state conditioning
• Surface smoothing properties for exceptional conditioning from
rinse-off and leave-on conditioners

• Luxuriously smooth and soft hair in the dry state

• Touchable smooth and soft hair

• Consumer-perceivable improvements to the sensory feel of

damaged hair
• European bleached
• African relaxed

• Improves dry combing and manageability

Smart Science to improve livesTM

Crodamol™ STS
As an emollient, Crodamol STS forms a light film on the surface of the hair
▪ Increases shine due to its high refractive index
▪ Provides better alignment of the hair fibbers, decreases the apparent cuticle angle
▪ provides an overall smoothing effect on the hair, which also delivers more shine
▪ Sensory Comparison against D5, Non-volatile and has aesthetics similar to silicones

12 9,98

10 Shine
Index
8 6,45
Cuticle
6 Angle
4 3,07

2
0,05
0
Control STS
Hair Treatment

Smart Science to improve livesTM

KeramatchTM V: Vegan Keratin

• An optimised protein blend derived from plant sources

designed to offer a viable alternative to animal derived keratin

• Amino acid profile comparable to that of animal derived keratin

High Natural content
• Substantive to the hair fibre
• Tensile test results are comparable to animal derived keratin

• Excellent sensory data compared to benchmarks

• Ideal replacement for animal keratin

Smart Science to improve livesTM

KeravisTM PE: Science of hair strength

• Visible, consumer-perceivable improvement in hair

condition
• Dramatically reduces hair breakage from repetitive combing
• Hair strengthening active
• Able to increase the strength of damaged hair compared to a
control conditioner
• Strengthens hair to resist combing damage
• Demonstrates strengthening and anti-breakage properties when
compared to D-Panthenol
• Proven efficacy from rinse-off systems

Smart Science to improve livesTM

MiruStyle™ MFP PE

Suitable for formulations without

silicones

This innovative styling biopolymer offers anti-frizz

benefits to leave hair smoother and sleeker with
proven reduce static fly-away claims. Perfect for
humid climates in leave-on styling applications.

Smart Science to improve livesTM

Crodasone TM P
Natural defense from Pea Protein
• CrodasoneTM P is a biopolymer derived from the superfood Pisum sativum or ‘pea’
which is popular for its high protein content, unique assortment of phyto-nutrients
and antioxidant properties.

• One of the key food inspiring trend (protein)

• Pisum sativum provides a rich source of amino acids for hair care

• Defends against cuticle cracking

• Heat activated cuticle defence

• Protects against damage caused by blow-drying, combing, and styling

Smart Science to improve livesTM

Experts in Biopolymers
Why biopolymers? Cropeptide™ W
•Hydrolysed native proteins
INCI: Hydrolyzed Wheat
•Naturally substantive to skin and hair Protein (and) Hydrolyzed
Wheat Starch (and) Water
•Degree of hydrolysis determines (aqua)

properties
•Can be functionalised to further enhance
performance
•Natural moisturisers

Smart Science to improve livesTM

 FruitbioTM Peeling for Smooth Hair and Scalp

Fruitbio™ is a complex of α-hydroxyacids (lactic, citric and

malic) in association with green tea extract

Promotes a hair fiber “peeling”: removes lifted cuticle tips to

smooth out hair surface. Hair treated
with placebo
▪ Detox effect: prevent adhesion of pollution particles (reduction
of anchoring sites)
▪ Smooth surface: Improved softness and shine +43%
▪ Loose, manageable hair: less frizz and entangling due to softness
absence of uplifted cuticles

Promotes a scalp peeling as well: reduced scaling for a Hair treated

smooth and clear scalp with FruitbioTM

INCI name: Water (Aqua), Lactic acid, Camelia sinensis leaf extract, Glycerin, Citric acid, Malic acid
Use dosage: 0.5 - 1%

Smart Science to improve livesTM

Crodarom – Oils & Butters
AvocadinTM HU 25: plant-based
PhytoleaTM : a range of oils 100% butter, based on refined avocado and olive
oil. Thick and melting consistency, high
natural, rich in phytosterols and vitamins
cutaneous affinity, easily absorbed by the
skin. Soothing, protective and repairing
effects for skin and hair care.

Smart Science to improve livesTM

 Clean Beauty in Hair Care

Croda
Formulations
Insights

Smart Science to improve livesTM

Clear Conditioning Sulphate Free Shampoo
% Plant Origin
Phase Ingredient/INCI Name % w/w
(Dry Basis)
Water Deionized (Aqua) To 100
Disodium EDTA 0.30
A
Glycerin 2.00
Poliquaternium-7 0.30
Jaguar® Excel (Guar Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride)2 0.25
B
Lactic Acid (88%) To 3.5

Clean Hair Care

C Crodasinic™ LS30 (Aqua (and) Sodium Lauroyl Sarcosinate)1 10.00 30

Cocamidopropylbetaine (30%) 20.00 18

D Versathix (PEG-150 Pentaerythrityl Tetrastearate (and) PPG-2 Hydroxyethyl Cocamide (and)
2.45 20
Water)1
Arlasilk™ EFA (Linoleamidopropyl PG-Dimonium Chloride Phosphate (and) Propylene Glycol (and)
0.40 17
E Water)1
Crodafos™ HCE (Oleth-5 Phosphate (and) Dioleyl Phosphate)1 0.50 65
Preservative q.s
F
Lactic Acid (88%) To 5.5 – 6.0

Procedure:
Combine Part A ingredients in a backer with stirring, then disperse Jaguar® Excel in Part A and keep stirring until the mix doesn´t have lumps.
Adjust pH to 3.5 with Lactic Acid to help the gum swell and fully incorporate. Add part C and homogeneize. Mix apart the ingredients of part D,
when part D is thicker, combine with part A+B+C and let it incorporate. Add the ingredients of Part D one by one, stir until homogeneous. Add
one by one ingredients of Part E with stirring,make sure the previous ingredient is fully incorporated before adding the next one. Finally add part
F into the mixture and stir well until homogeneous. If it´s necessary, adjust the pH with Lactic Acid.

Smart Science to improve livesTM

Smooth Hair Conditioner
% Plant Origin (Dry
Phase Ingredients %
Basis)
Deionized Water To 100
I.
Disodium EDTA 0,05

Cetostearyl Alcohol (50/50) 5,00

Clean Hair Care

Cetrimonium Chloride 3,00 95

Crodazoquat™ MCC (Behentrimonium Methosulfate (and) Quaternium 87 (and) Cetearyl

II. 1,50 80
Alcohol)

CrodamolTM SS (Cetyl Esters) 2,00 100

CrodamolTM STS (PPG-3 Benzyl Ether Myristate) 1,00 47

KeradynTM HH (Bis-Ethyl(isostearylimidazoline) Isostearamide) 0,50 80

III.
Preservative q.s

Procedure: Heat Phase A to 80-85 °C. Combine Phase B with stirring and heat to 80-85°C. Add Phase B to Phase A with
stirring. Cool to 40 °C and add Phase C. If necessary, adjust pH to 3.5 - 4.5.

Smart Science to improve livesTM

 Natural Hair Mask % Total Natural: 94%

Ingredients % % Natural
Deionized Water To 100 -
Hydroxyethylcellulose 0.20 100
A EDTA 0.10 -
Glycerin 1.50 100
Lactic Acid 85% 0.50 100

Clean Hair Care

Alcohol cetoestearilico 3.00 100
™
Crodamol SS (Cetyl Esters) 1.00 100
Seatons Refined Linseed Oil (Linum Usitatissimum (Linseed) Seed Oil) 0.25 100
Cropure Sweet Almond (Almond Oil) 0.25 100
B
Crodazosoft™ DBQ (Quaternium-91 (and) Cetrimonium Methosulfate (and) Cetearyl Alcohol) 2.50 80

Crodamine™ SC (Hydroxyethyl Diethylenetriamine Dioleamide/Palmitamide) 1.00 77

Keradyn HH (Bis-Ethyl(isostearylimidazoline) Isostearamide) 0.50 80
™
KeraMatch V (Aqua (and) Hydrolyzed Pea Protein (and) Hydrolyzed Vegetable Protein) 1.00 99
C Vitamin E 1.00 100
Preservative q.s -

Procedure: Heat Phase A to 80-85 °C. Combine Phase B with stirring and heat to 80-85°C. Add Phase B to Phase A with
stirring. Cool to 40 °C and add Phase C. If necessary, adjust pH to 3.5 - 4.5.

Smart Science to improve livesTM

Combing Cream
% Plant Origin (Dry
Phase Ingredients %
Basis)
Deionized Water To 100
I.
Disodium EDTA 0,05

Cetostearyl Alcohol (50/50) 5,00

Clean Hair Care

Stearamidopropyl Dimethylamine 0,50
II.
Crodazoquat™ MCC (Behentrimonium Methosulfate (and) Quaternium 87 (and) Cetearyl
0,75 80
Alcohol)

CrodamolTM SS (Cetyl Esters) 2,00 100

MirustyleTM MFP (Hydroxypropyl Trimonium Hydrolyzed Corn Starch (and) Water (aqua)) 1,50 80
III.
Preservative q.s

Procedure: Heat Phase A to 80-85 °C. Combine Phase B with stirring and heat to 80-85°C. Add Phase B to Phase A with
stirring. Cool to 40 °C and add Phase C. If necessary, adjust pH to 3.5 - 4.5.

Smart Science to improve livesTM

Leave-In Spray % Total Natural: 84,38%

Ingredients % % Natural

A Deionized Water To 100 -

Cetostearyl Alcohol 2.00 100

Isopropyl Myristate 2.00 78

Clean Hair Care

B
CrodazoquatTM ™ MCC (Behentrimonium Methosulfate (and) Quaternium 87 (and) Cetearyl Alcohol) 1.80 80

LustreplexTM (Polyquaternium-70 (and) Dipropylene Glycol) 0.30 30

MirustyleTM MFP (Hydroxypropyl Trimonium Hydrolyzed Corn Starch (and) Water (aqua)) 0.50 90

C FruitbioTM (Water (and) Lactic Acid (and) Camelia Sinensis Leaf Extract (and) Glycerin (and) Citric
0.20 99
Acid (and) Malic Acid)

Preservative q.s -

Procedure:
Heat Part A to 80 - 85 ºC with stirring. Combine Part B and heat to 80 – 85 ºC. Add Part B to Part A with fast stirring. Below
40 ºC add one by one ingredients of Part C with stirring. If necessary, adjust pH to 3.5 - 4.5.

Smart Science to improve livesTM

 Thanks!
Gracias!

Non-warranty
The information in this publication is believed to be accurate
and is given in good faith, but no representation or warranty
as to its completeness or accuracy is made. Suggestions for
uses or applications are only opinions. Users are responsible
for determining the suitability of these products for their own
particular purpose. No representation or warranty, expressed
or implied, is made with respect to information or products
including, without limitation, warranties of merchantability,
fitness for a particular purpose, non-infringement of any third
party patent or other intellectual property rights including,
without limit, copyright, trademark and designs. Any
trademarks identified herein, unless otherwise noted, are
trademarks of the Croda group of companies.
©2020 Croda International Plc

Smart Science to improve livesTM