2009 - Service Manual (Nef Engines, SUV & SC-DC)

NEF ENGINES
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Repair Manual MAN-000XX
Scorpio Vlx August 2009/Rev 1
NEF Engines
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CRDe
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The repair methods given by the manufacturer in this document are based on the technical specifications current at the time of release. The methods may be modified as a result of changes
introduced by the manufacturer in the production of the various component units and accessories from which the vehicles are manufactured. The reproduction, translation, transmission, in part of
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NEF CRDe Engines
Contents
Description
Trouble Shooting
Care of the System
In Car Repairs
Working principle of various sub systems of the Engine
Dismantling & overha uling of the Engine

.
Specifications & Wear Data
Lubricants & Sealants
Tightening Torques
List of the MST


Description
The 2.49 & 2.6 liter is Turbocharged & Intercooled common rail direct injected
diesel engine. The specifications for both the Engines are as mentioned below:
ENGINE
SPECS 2.49 L 2.6 L
BORE 94 94
STROKE 90 94
POWER 105 BHP @ 3800 rpm 115 BHP @ 3800 rpm
TORQUE 257 Nm @ 1800 rpm 283 Nm @ 1800 rpm
A waste gated turbocharger controls the boost to 2.2 bar. The compressed
air is cooled by the charge intercooler which is mounted upstream of the
turbocharger. The cooled air enters the inlet manifold’s plenum and it
enters the Cast iron cylinder head through the inlet valves having a 45-
degree angle. A boost pressure sensor is incorporated in the system to
measure the air boost.
Boost Pressure
Sensor
The piston features re-entrant type combustion chamber and having

ferrous ring insert in the Top ring groove. A 3-ring pack is used. The top
ring is asymmetrical barrel face and with CKS coating and keystone shape.
The 2nd ring is taper faced. The 3rd is Conformable Oil Ring. The piston is
having an offset of 0.5 mm.
The forged connecting rod is connected to induction-hardened crankshaft.

The small end of the connecting rod is trapezoidal shaped to reduce the
mass as well as to ensure higher loading. The crankshaft is induction
hardened with the filets hardened & ground. The flywheel has a shrunk fit
ring gear and also a ball bearing to act as pilot for the gearbox input
shaft. The front end is having a rubber moulded dampener pulley
The high pressure pump & camshaft are chain driven.

Trouble Shooting
Refer to the Service diagnosis chart. Additional tests & diagnostic

procedures may be necessary for specific engine complaints that can not
be isolated using only the diagnostic chart.
Information concerning the additional checks is provided within the

following diagnostic.
Cylinder compression pressure Test
The results of the cylinder compression test can be utilized to diagnose

several engine malfunctions.
Before carrying out the compression test ensure that the battery is in
good working condition. Otherwise the indicated pressures may not be
valid for diagnostic purpose.
Remove all the injectors.

Fit the dummy injector (MST Tool) and connect it with the compression
gauge.
Disconnect the engine RPM sensor or phase sensor connector so that
the engine does not start.
Crank the engine.
Note the compression value should be 30 bars.
Repeat the procedure for the other cylinder.
Refer to the Specification for the value.
Engine cylinder Head Gasket Failure Diagnosis
A leaking engine cylinder head gasket usually results in loss of power, loss
of coolant and engine misfiring, overheating and poor fuel economy.
An engine cylinder head gasket leak can be:

A. Between adjacent cylinders
Or
B. Between a cylinder and adjacent water jacket.
Cylinder head gasket failure between cylinders is indicated by

Loss of power and /or engine misfiring.

Cylinder head gasket leaking between a cylinder and coolant passage

results in coolant foaming or overheating and loss of coolant indicate an
engine water jackets.
Cylinder to Cylinder Leakage Test
Check the cylinder compression pressure as already explained. Leakage

between cylinders will be result in drop of compression pressure by nearly
50 to 70% in the affected cylinders.
Cylinder to Water jacket Leakage Test
• Remove the radiator cap.

• Warm up the engine and allow it to warm up until the engine
thermostat opens.
• If large combustion /combustion pressure leak exist, bubbles will be
visible in coolant.
• If bubbles are not visible, install a radiator pressure tester and
pressurize the cooling circuit. If a cylinder is leaking combustion
pressure into the water jackets then the tester’s needle will pulsate
with every combustion stroke of the cylinder.
Symptom Causes Remedial action

Engine will not start 1. Air intake 9 Replace the element.
& emit black smoke obstructed 9 Check for free operation
of Turbocharger.
2. Defective 9 Replace
injectors
3. Lack of 9 Check compression
compression. pressure.- if low check
for valve seat ,rings &
liner wear
4. Cylinder head 9 Replace the cyl. head

gasket failure gasket.
5. Engine timing- 9 Check timing chain.
Valve
6. CR system 9 Refer diagnostic manual.

Noisy engine & black 1. Faulty injectors. 9 Replace injectors

smoke.
2. Loose main 9 Tighten the main
bearings bearings.
3. Broken parts 9 Inspect and replace the

broken parts.
4. Rockers loose or 9 Adjust tappet.

out of
adjustment.
Engine does not give 1. Air intake 9 Replace air cleaner
full power. restricted. element if required.
2. Clogged fuel 9 Replace filter.

filter.
3. Incorrect tappet 9 Adjust tappets in cold
clearance condition.
4. Defective 9 Replace
injectors.
5. Air leaks in 9 Plug the leaks, replace

pressure line hose or clip if required.
after
turbocharger(
Turbo to
intercooler,
intercooler &
intercooler to
intake manifold)
6. Air leak in pipe – 9 Replace the hose or
manifold to FIP tighten
7. Fuel return pipe 9 Locate the kink/block in
to tank blocked. return pipe and rectify.
8. Boost pressure 9 Check the pipe, washer
pipe/hose

assembly & rectify.

damaged.
9. Valve leak 9 Check the compression,
relap if required.
10. Turbocharger 9 Get the Turbocharger
damaged. repaired at authorized
TEL dealer.
11. Gas leaks 9 Replace gaskets.
between exhaust
manifold &
cylinder head.
12. Restricted 9 Replace Turbocharger

exhaust system.
13. Exhaust gas 9 Tighten the TC mounting

leak between bolts. Replace gasket if
turbo & manifold. required.
14. Gas leak 9 Remove the restriction in

between EGR exhaust system.
pipe joints
15. EGR pipe leak. 9 Change the gasket or the

hose.
16. Fuels supply 9 Replace the pipe.

line kink creating 9 Remove the restriction.
restriction.
17. EGR valve 9 Check the EGR using the

improper blink codes. Proceed
functioning. appropriately.
18. Compression 9 Check compression.

leak.
19. Jammed piston 9 Replace piston rings.

rings
20. Viscous fan 9 Check the VFD as


continuously outlined in cooling.

engaged. Replace if required.
Check CR system Refer the diagnostic manual
Noisy engine & high 1. Cylinder head 9 Replace the cylinder

smoke ( White/ gasket defective. head gasket.
Grey) 2. Worn out or 9 Lap the valve seats or
damaged valve regrind.
seats.
3. Leaking injector 9 Tighten the injector
holder holder.
Black smoke. 1. Air intake 9 Check for hoses, replace

restricted. air cleaner element.
2. Incorrect tappet 9 Adjust tappets.

setting.
3. Defective 9 Check injectors.

injectors
4. Air leaks. 9 Check for leaks between

Turbocharger to
intercooler, intercooler
& intercooler to inlet
manifold.
5. EGR valve stuck 9 Check the EGR valve
open
6. Restricted 9 Remove restriction or
exhaust system. replace parts.
7. Gas leak between 9 Replace manifold gasket
exhaust manifold or parts.
& cylinder head.
8. Worn out rings, 9 Overhaul engine.
liners & valves.
Excessive oil 1. Cracked vacuum 9 Check the vacuum line

consumption line hoses. from the alternator to
the EGR valve - check for

leaks, crack. Replace

cracked hoses.
2. Clogged air filter 9 Replace element.

element.
3. Restriction in air 9 Locate & remove

intake to restriction.
compressor duct.
4. Restrictions in 9 Remove the restriction in

turbocharger oil the drainpipe.
drain line.
5. Restriction in 9 Check the crankcase

crankcase ventilation & rectify.
breather.
6. Damaged oil 9 Replace the oil separator

separator
7. Turbocharger 9 Change oil, filter, service

damaged. the Turbocharger & use
recommended oils &
drain intervals. Follow
the recommended
procedure while shutting
down.
9 Repair Turbocharger.
8. Worn out rings, 9 Overhaul engine.

liners, and
valves.
9. External oil leaks 9 Stop the external oil

leakages.
10. Leakages 9 Change the vacuum

through inlet hoses.
manifold 9 Change the manifold
mounting face gasket or replace the

allowing dust manifold.

entry.
11. Bend/kink in 9 Remove the bend or
any of the oil kinks.
return
pipe’s/vacuum
hoses.
12. Defective 9 Replace the vacuum

vacuum pump. pump.
Blue smoke. 1. Clogged air filter 9 Replace element.

element.

compressor duct.
3. Air leak between 9 Locate the leaks,

the Turbocharger change hose or clamp if
to intake required.
manifold.
4. Excess oil. 9 Correct the oil level.
5. Wear in valve 9 Check the valve stem

seal. seals, replace if
required.
6. Wear in piston 9 Check the compression

rings & liner. pressure, replace rings &
liners.
7. TC oil seal leaks 9 Check the Turbocharger
if defective get it
attended.
White smoke. 1. Improper timing 9 Check sprockets & chain

for wear. Rectify
2. Defective
cylinder head 9 Replace the cylinder
gasket. head gasket.

3. Restriction in fuel 9 Remove the restrictions.

supply
Starter will not work 1. Electrical 9 Refer the electrical
or only cranks complaints. section.
slightly
2. Check water 9 If water level reduced
level. drastically then check
for hydrostatic lock.
9 Remove the water in the

3. Hydrostatic lock
cylinder and find the
cause for water entry.
Starter will not 1. Weak battery. 9 Check the battery
crank the engine. specific gravity.
2. Corroded or loose 9 Clean & tighten battery
battery connections.
connection
3. Faulty starter. 9 Repair starter.
4. Improper 9 Rectify earthing.

earthing.
Noisy valves 1. Tappets loose. 1. Set the tappet

clearances.
2. Rocker arms 2. Install the correct rocker
touching the cover gasket. If after
rocker cover. that also the problem
persist change the rocker
cover.
3. Thin or diluted 3. Change oil.
oil.
4. Low oil pressure. 4. Check the oil level.
5. Bent push rods. 5. Install new push rods.
6. Worn rocker 6. Replace the rocker arms.
arms.
7. Worn valve 7. Replace the valve
guides. guides.
8. Excessive runout 8. Grind valve seats and
of valves seats valves.

9. Oil thickening 9. Replace oil & find the

reasons of thickening,
rectify.
Oil pressure drop 1. Low oil level. 9 Check engine oil level.
2. Defective oil 9 Install new sensor.

pressure sensor.
3. Clogged oil filter. 9 Replace filter.
4. Clogged oil cooler 9 Clean the oil cooler.
5. Clogged oil 9 Clean the strainer.

strainer.
6. Pressure relief 9 Clean the valve & bore

valve in oil filter and assemble.
bracket stuck.
7. Oil leaks- internal 9 Check the gasket

between the block &
front cover or any of the
MOG plugs
8. Worn parts in oil 9 Replace the worn parts

pump. or pump.
9. Excessive oil 9 Check oil clearances.

clearances
10. Thin or diluted 9 Change oil to correct

oil. viscosity.
11. Excessive 9 Remove the valve,

bearing inspect, clean & refit.
clearance.
12. Oil pump relief 9 Remove sump, inspect

valve stuck. the parts & replace.
13. Oil pump

suction tube
loose, bent or
cracked.
14. Oil pump 9 Install new pump.

cover warped or
cracked
Oil leaks 1. Worn oil seals 9 Replace seals.
2. Misaligned or 9 Replace gasket.

deteriorated
gaskets.
3. Loose fastener, 9 Tighten fastener

broken or porous 9 Repair or replace.
metal parts
Care of the System --
The performance of the engine is dependent on ensuring that the

following maintenance is carried out as per the schedule without fail.
Accessory Belt : To be checked and adjusted if required at every 10,000

Kms. To be replaced at every 80,000 Kms.
Air cleaner: The element should be replaced at every 40,000 Kms or when
red indicator band shows. For the detailed procedure, refer to the Air
Intake System.
Oil:. The oil should conform to CH4 grade and with a viscosity Index of
15W40. It should be kept in mind that in the turbocharger engine the oil
has to have do an additional load of lubricating and cooling the
Turbocharger shaft If any oil of lower specification is used it can break
down under the high thermal load at the turbine end of the shaft
especially during the hot shutdown.
This oil grade also ensures that the oil consumption is within the desire
limits. Use Maximile Supreme Grade of oils. The Oil change intervals are
first at 5000 Kms. & then subsequently every 15000 Kms.

Cooling system: Ensure that no leakages are present. For details of the
coolant and ratio refer the Cooling System.
Turbocharger: The engine is having an exhaust gas driven turbocharger.

The turbocharger shaft speed varies from about 40, 000 when engine is
idling to about 1,70,000 when the engine is having the full rated RPM.
EGR: On vehicles fitted with EGR system the following additional points
check have to done during scheduled maintenance.
• Check for any exhaust gas leakage through sealing faces, EGR pipe.
Formation of any black soot indicates leakage.
• Check the vacuum hoses for any leaks, cracks.
• Retighten all nuts and bolts as per the recommend torque.
Tappet setting has to be carried out every 20000 Kms.
While doing the tappet clearance, in case of vehicle fitted with EGR
system ensure that the EGR pipe is not bent or overstress the pipes,
elbow.
If the pipes are removed then it is essential that while fitting back; new
gaskets be used. Do not open the pipe from one end only; it will cause the
pipe to twist. If the EGR pipe has to be removed, then open from both the
ends.
In Car Repairs –
The in car repairs which can be carried out are:
Tappet setting
Accessory Belt tension adjustment
Accessory belt removal & Refitment
VFD Assembly with Fan Blade removal


High Pressure pump Removal
Oil filter changing
Turbocharger removal & Refitment
Cylinder head gasket Replacement
Tappet setting –
1. Remove the oil filler cap.
2. Remove the oil separator & pipe from the ladder frame /sump to
the rocker cover.
3. Remove the tappet cover mounting Allen screws along with the
rubber washer.
4. Remove the tappet cover.
5. Remove NVH Cover & then Rocker Arm Cover with Gasket


6. Adjust the tappet clearance as per the following procedure …
• Bring no.1 piston at TDC. Ensure no 4 cylinder valve at dancing /

rocking position.
• Adjust the tappet clearance of 1st cylinder both Inlet & Exhaust
valves as per specifications.
• Turn the engine 1800 further in the direction of engine rotation.

Adjust tappet of 3rd cylinder valves as per specifications.

Adjust tappet of 4th cylinder valves as per specifications.

Adjust tappet of 2nd cylinder valves as per specifications.
Accessory Belt tension Adjustment –
1. Check the Belt Tension…

- Turn on the Belt Tension Gauge, select reading mode in Hertz (Hz) &
hold the probe approximately 5mm distance in Front of the belt (
CAUTION: Do not touch the probe to the belt, this can damage the
probe!) as shown in the illustration above by X.
- Tap on the belt near the probe.
- Note the reading. If the reading is within 125 TO 145, this should be
OK.
- If the reading is less than 125 Hz then it needs adjustment.


2. Adjust the belt tension ….

2.A - Loosen the Tensioner Pulley Shaft Nut.
2.B – Tighten the Belt Tensioning Bolt.
2.C - Tighten the Tensioner Pulley Shaft Nut
3. Repeat the procedure as per the Step-1

- If the belt tension value should be 140+5 Hz.
If the value is less than 140+5 Hz, Repeat the Steps 2 & 3.
Accessory belt Remove & Refit –
1. Loosen the Tensioner bolt to relieve the tension.
2. Loosen the Tensioner Pulley Nut. Take out the pulley assembly with
Dust Shield, washer & take the belt out.
3. Take the belt out.
4. Put the new belt in place & fit the Tensioner Pulley Assembly along
with dust shield & washer on the bracket, hand tighten the nut.
Tighten the Tensioner Pulley Nut with torque of 32.5 ± 2.5 Nm.


5. Tighten the Tensioner Bolt so as to get the specified belt tension;

follow the accessory belt tension check procedure for checking /
adjusting the belt tension to the installation tension --170 ± 2 Hz.
6. Run the engine for 5 minutes & confirm the stabilized tension is at
140 to 145 Hz.
Fan Blade & Viscous Fan Drive Removal & Assembly –
Caution: Do not remove the accessory

belt before removing the nut.
Loosen the water pump nut.
Note that the threads are

anticlockwise threads. Hence to
loosen then the direction of rotation
has to be clockwise when viewed from
front.
Do not tamper or service the center

portion of the fan.
The nut should rest on pulley after

tightening.
The fan blade assembly and the VFD
assembly can be removed together.


High Pressure Pump Removal & Refitment –
Remove tappet cover.
Bring the 1st cylinder in compression
Note –
To confirm the first cylinder TDC

position remove the 1st cylinder
injector, insert the MST and the dial
gauge. Check by the dial if the piston is
in TDC)
Remove the VFD assembly along with

the fan blade assembly.
Remove the fan belt.
Remove the High Pressure Pump

connections and fuel supply.


Remove the injector pipes.
If the piston is not at TDC then the

holes will not align with the block. As a
consequence when the MST is used
subsequently the MST can break.
Rotate the engine to align three holes

of High Pressure Pump sprocket with
three tapped hole provided on crank
case for mounting threaded pins of
removal tool.
FIT the three nos.-threaded pins on

crankcase through FIP sprocket holes
and tighten with 17-mm spanner.




Oil filter removal & refitting --
Remove the right side wheel apron.
Remove the oil filter using the MST 545
After removal, ensure that the central

stud is fully tight.
It can work out loose while removal of

the filter.
If it has worked loose then tighten it to

torque of 25-30 Nm ( 18-22 Lbft)
While fitting the new oil filter. Apply oil on the “O” rings.
Tighten by hand only.


Turbocharger removal & Refitment –
Remove the right side wheel apron.

Remove the oil filter using the MST
545
Remove the oil cooler assembly
The above 3 steps are suggested for

ease of operations & access.
Remove the air intake hose to

turbocharger.


Please cover the opening to the

turbocharger with cover to avoid
accidentally dropping any foreign
object e.g. spanner
Remove the exhaust pipe from after

the elbow. (Access is only after lifting
it on a two post or in a pit and using a
extension with UJ.)
Remove the oil feed pipe and the oil

return pipe.
(It is recommended to apply rust

cleaning spray (WD 40) in the nuts
before attempting to remove
otherwise, the stud will come off.)


Remove the turbocharger mounting 3

nuts.
Cylinder Head Gasket Removal & Refitment –
1
3
2
1. Remove the rocker cover
2. Remove the Injector’s high-pressure pipes.
3. Remove the Fan blade assembly along with VFD


4. Remove the Accessory Belt.
5. Remove the Water pump.
6. Remove the Turbocharger.
7. Remove the rocker shaft assembly.
8. Remove the cylinder head bolts.
2 8 9 5 3
Note –
4 6 10 7 1
While removing ensure that the bolts
loosening is the reverse of the
tightening sequence
Remove the Cylinder head assembly.

Measure the length of the cylinder
head bolt. If it is up to 135 mm then
the bolt can be reused.
If the length is more than 135 mm, use

new bolt.
The cylinder head gasket is of the

Multi Layer Steel (MLRS) Type gasket.
Though it can be assembled either way
it is recommended that for optimum
performance the Top, which is
identified by the lettering, is facing
upward.
(The cylinder Head gasket cannot be
reused – even if it appears to be good.)


Do not use any sealant/lubricant like

shellac or oil on either block or head
or gasket face.
The cylinder head bolts are to be

tightened with slight trace of clean
engine oil. (2-3 drops only). Do not put
excess quantity of oil.
The tightening sequence is as shown.

The tightening torque’s is 90 Nm then
9 3 2 6 8 followed by 60-degree angular torque.
Again torque by 60 degree.
7 5 1 4 10 The angular torque in 2 stages ensure

that the tightening/clamping loads of
all the bolts are very close to each
other.
Working principle, of the various subsystems of the Engine –
The various subsystems are:
Turbocharger: Please refer to the Air Intake System section.
Exhaust Gas Recirculation
Crankcase ventilation
Oil circulation


Working Principle of Exhaust Gas Recirculation
Signal out
Vacuum
Modulator
Exhaust Air
Temperature E
Sensor
C
RPM sensor
U Engine EGR
Vacuum
Reservoir
Load Sensor
Boost Pressure
Intake Air
Sensor
Alternator
Air flow with Vacuum
pump
During acceleration and in higher loads the combustion chamber

temperatures increase. The high combustion temperatures increase the
NOx generation. The higher percentage of NOx generated in the
combustion chamber come out through the tail pipe in the atmosphere.
To reduce the amount of NOx coming through the tail pipe the EGR
system adds exhaust gases into the fresh air that is going into the
combustion chamber. Since the exhaust gas is already burnt hence when
mixed with fresh air acts an inert gas. Thus when the exhaust gas mixed
with fresh air enters the combustion chamber, it performs a dual role.
The first role it does is that it reduces the amount of oxygen available for
combustion. The second role that it acts is as a heat absorbent/heat sink.
The net effect is that it reduces the combustion temperatures. This
results in lower amount of NOx being generated.
To control the amount/percentage of exhaust gases to be circulated back

to the combustion chamber an ECU is used. The ECU monitors the coolant
temperature, attitude, engine speed, and accelerator pedal position and

the air flow. Based on the above parameters the ECU operates a switch
that in turn controls the amount of vacuum going to the EGR valve. The
amount of vacuum applied controls the lift of the EGR valve.
EGR Valve
Remove the EGR valve and check it valve-sticking, deposition of carbon

etc. If excess carbon deposits and sticky valve noticed then it should be
cleaned with a suitable solvent, so that the correct valve seat is ensured.
After cleaning the valve blow air from the bottom side of the valve and
check for any leakages.
EGR Cooler
EGR cooler is used in the Euro IV engine to cool the exhaust gases being
supplied to the engine.
EGR Pipe
Remove the EGR pipe and check for gas leakage, damages etc. Clean the
gasket seating area from any carbon deposits, burrs etc. Spray WD 40 rust
cleaning spray on the nut.
To check the pipe for any leakages, close one end of flange and from
other end blow air at 2 bars. Dip the pipe in water and observe if any
leakage is observed. If any leaks are observed then the pipe has to be
replaced. Do not attempt to weld/ seal the leakage joint
EGR Solenoid switch
The solenoid switch does not require any maintenance. For any damage
replace the component.
Vacuum Modulator Valve
Does not require any maintenance. However please check and confirm
that that the line from the modulator to air cleaner is clean and the hole
at the air cleaner hose end is not choked.


Working principle of Crankcase Ventilation System –
The ventilation system is closed ventilation type. A hose connects the

ladder frame / sump assembly to the oil separator. Te oil separator is a
labriyanth type. The oil goes through the labriyanth, the oil collected
drops down. The excess pressure acts below the diaphragm. The
diaphragm is acted from below by the crankcase pressure and from top
the suction by air cleaner. A spring also acts on top of the diaphragm.
Once the pressure exceeds the diaphragm lifts and the excess crankcase
pressure goes to the air intake system.
Certain amount of oil will be carried from the oil separator to the Air inlet
hose, which is normal. However if it is excessive please look for all the
causes mentioned in the high blow bye.
Oil circulation system –
An external gear type pump sucks the oil through the strainer. The oil
pump is driven by the gear, which is mounted, on the crankshaft.
The oil pump delivers pressurized oil to the supply bore in the block. This
oil is delivered to the oil cooler and after getting cooled comes on the

outer side of the element. The filtered oil goes through the centre of the
oil filter and is connected to the main oil gallery.
The main oil gallery runs to the front of the block where it is delivered to
the timing cover. From therein it takes a small loop in the timing cover
and again comes to the front of the block. Goes to another oil gallery. Oil
from this gallery supplies oil to the piston cooling jets
Oil from the main oil gallery goes to the crankshaft main journal and
camshaft, while from the rear end it is supplied to the alternator’s
vacuum pump. The oil supply for the turbocharger is from the oil filter
bracket.
The oil routed from the main oil gallery lubricates the timing gears and
the idler gear bush. Part of this oil gets sprayed from idler shaft hole. The
camshaft gear and the thrust plate are lubricated by engine oil routed
from the first camshaft bushing through the camshaft hole.
The oil from the First camshaft bush goes to the top of the cylinder and
enters an oil gallery, which extend up to 110 m from the front. Oil from
this gallery comes to the base of the first rocker shaft-mounting bracket.
The oil then enters the rocker shaft. Oil enters the rocker bushing at
through two holes facing the bottom half. At the same time it sprays from
the oil hole at the side of the rocker to lubricate the valve stem and the
surfaces over which the valve cap slides. The oil then returns to the sump
through the push rod holes in the cylinder head.
In both the oil cooler and oil filter, bypass valves are provided which
operate if the differential pressure exceeds 0.8 bar.


Dismantling & overhauling of the Engine.
Comprise of 5 steps:
Removal of the engine
Dismantling
Inspection
Assembly
Testing


Removal of the engine from the vehicle –
Disconnect the battery cables & remove

the battery.
Remove the bonnet.
Remove the radiator drain cock. Collect

the coolant -if the coolant is clean it so
that it can be reused.
Remove the electrical connections of:

Oil pressure sensor
Water temperature sensor.
Starter motor
All sensors ( HFM,ISS,Phase)
Connection to Injectors, Modulator.
Boost pressure sensor


Remove the air cleaner assembly.

Remove the hose connection from the
Turbocharger end TC to intercooler.
Remove the exhaust pipe at the

Turbocharger outlet elbow.
Remove the oil filter using the MST 545
Remove the Turbocharger mounting

bolts and remove the Turbocharger.
! It is recommended to remove the

Turbocharger before the removal in
order to avoid any accidental damage
to it while removing.


Remove the oil evaporator system.
Remove the starter motor.
Remove the fuel lines from filter to

High Pressure Pump & return to fuel
tank.
Remove hoses connecting the water

pump to radiator.
Remove the hose connected from the

water pump to heater and also the
heater return line.


Remove the fan shroud.
Remove the radiator.
Remove the power steering connection

hoses from the power steering pump.
Remove the pipes connecting from AC

compressor suction and discharge lines.
Remove the vacuum hose from the
vacuum pump in alternator to booster.


Drain the oil from the sump.

Attach lifting device.
Remove the front insulators mounting
bolts,
Remove the gearbox mounting Allen
screws.
Pull out and lift the engine from the
engine compartment.
Dismantling --
After removing the engine from the

vehicle mount it on the engine stand.
Remove the rocker cover
Remove the High-pressure pipes.
Remove the leak off pipe.

Loosen the Viscous Fan Drives nut.

front
Loosen the tensioner bolt first. Loosen

the belt tension with the bolt on
bracket.
Remove the accessory belt.
While assembly take care that main

drive pulley is assembled correctly.
It should be noticed that the main drive

pulley can be assembled in either
direction, however the front end is
identified by holes drilled for balancing
(this are not thorough holes). If
assembled wrongly it will cause
misalignment by 5to 6 mm
Remove the pipe from the oil cooler to

the water pump.


Remove the water pump.
Remove the pipe oil cooler to the

block.
Remove the oil cooler.
Remove the accessory like power

steering pump. AC pump and the
alternator.


Remove the injectors.
Bring the first cylinder into

compression. Confirm using the MST
Remove the front cover on the timing

cover.
Ensure that the “O” rings on the front

cover is kept securely so that it can be
! reused if
reassembly.
not damaged while


Remove the HPP mounting nut
Using the pusher remove the High

Pressure Pump.

of FIP sprocket with three tapped hole
provided on crank case for mounting
threaded pins of FIP removal tool.
FIT the three nos.-threaded pins (on

crankcase through HPP sprocket holes
and tightened with 17-mm spanner.




Insert three slotted pins in the other

three holes of HPP sprocket and rest
against crankcase face
Now slide pins in the slot so that

bottom portion of slot will butt against
the back face of sprocket when HPP
shaft is pushed away from sprocket.
Remove the three nuts used for

mounting the HPP flange on the
crankcase
Remove the HPP sprocket-mounting Nut
Assemble the Flange of MST with help

three M8 bolts on the face of three
threaded pins.
Now assemble the M 16 threaded on the

flange. Rotate the threaded bolt with
24mm spanner so that FIP is pushed out
from the sprocket.
Please hold the HPP with hand while

pushing out from sprocket.
Do not remove all the pins i.e. detail

no. 2 & 5 till HPP is reassembled on the
sprocket.
(If the MST is removed while the FIP is

not in place then chance of sprocket
getting bent and later the chain
failure is high.)
Remove rocker cover


Remove the rocker shaft assembly
Remove the cylinder head mounting

bolts.
Remove the cylinder head along with

the inlet and exhaust manifold.
Rotate the engine.
Remove the oil sump.
Remove the oil pump along with the

suction.
Ensure that the oil sump gasket is removed. It will help in locating all
ladder frame mounting bolts
Rotate the engine by 90 degree.
Remove the oil jets along with the
gasket.


Remove the connecting rod caps and

take out the pistons.
Remove the dampener pulley
Remove the tensioner pulley
Remove the timing cover.


Remove the idler gear after removing

the 3 bolts.
Remove the camshaft’s main bolt and
the 2-thrust plate locking bolts.
Remove the camshaft.
Lock the flywheel using the MST 252

and loosen the flywheel mounting bolts
Remove the flywheel.

Remove the rear end oil seal with the
retainer.
Remove the main bearing bolts.
Remove the bearing caps along with

bearing shell halves.
Remove the crankshaft.
Remove the bearing shells & thrust

washers.
Rotate the engine.


Remove the cylinder liners using the

MST.
Remove the tappets by reversing the

engine.
Inspection:
All the components should be inspected for wear. Any components, which
are beyond the wear limits, have to be replaced.
Over & above the wear limits: The following points also need to be
ensured.
Piston: Check for scuffing/scoring on the skirt. A hard thick layer of

carbon lacquer on top land is acceptable. (If the thick layer is present on
the piston check that the liner does not have scuffing)
However scuffing of the top land and skirt giving indication of

overheating which is not acceptable.
Liner: Any scoring on the liner is not acceptable.
Crankshaft: Check for scoring on the main as well as connecting rod

journal. If scoring is nominal and will not the increase the oil clearance
then the crankshaft can be used in, as it is condition.
However if it is unacceptable then the journal has to be ground up to

service limits only.
Any deep groove in the rear end oil seal seating area is unacceptable. It
will result in oil leaks.
Valve: If valve tip is worn out/ ridged then not acceptable


Main bearing and connecting rod bearing — If the scoring is nominal and
oil clearance is not affected, then it can be reused. However if flaking
/peeling of the bimetal in any particular zone only is present then use
new shell. Look for foreign particle embedded, deep scratches.
Dampener pulley rubber bonding – inspect for any gap between the
rubber ring and the outer/inner ring, Cracks on ring. Any deep groove in
the front oil seal seating area is unacceptable. It will lead to leakages.
If any deterioration of rubber or gap noticed between the ring and the
rubber replace the dampener pulley.
It is suggested that the dampener pulley be replaced at every 3,00,000

Kms.
Caution:
While measuring the inner diameter of the connecting rod big end and
main journal please take the measurements after torque tightening
only. For measurement purpose the torque should be 85±8 Nm. Do not
reuse this bolt
If line boring of the crankshaft’s journal in the block is done to rectify

any ovality. Then please ensure that the material from block half is not
removed. In absence of taking this precaution the piston will move up.
It will change the compression, influencing the performance. In the
worst case the valves can hit the piston.
Assembly –
The assembly sequence is the reverse of the dismantling procedure.

To obtain a good life of the rebuilt unit absolute cleanliness of the parts is
taken as a prerequisite and also the fact that all the parts have been
inspected.
The additional points which are mentioned are necessary to give you the
engine life same as the original engine.


Bolts: The following bolts are recommend to be replace every time they
are opened-if the Maximum length exceeds the specification. However the
connecting rod bolt has to be changed every time without exception.
The bolts have to be tightened by base torque then 2 stage angular

torque. The angular torque’s ensures that the bolts are torque tightened
up to yield point. And the 2 stage ensures that the clamping load for each
bolt is within a very close tolerance.
Cylinder head bolts - 10 no --Maximum length 136.6/135.4 mm

Main Bearing Bolts - 10 no Maximum length 90.6/89.4mm
Connecting rod bolt s- 8 no Replace every time
Flywheel bolts - 6no Maximum length 29.58/30.42 mm
Cylinder block – Top face -- Ensure that the tapping for the cylinder head
bolt as well as the crankshaft’s main journal is fine. Ensure that no water
or oil after cleaning is in the bolt holes (esp. the cylinder heads.). If found
please remove them, if necessary using cotton cloth (not cotton waste).
If the oil /water is not removed then it is possible that while tightening
the bolt. It may not allow complete tightening of the bolts and one will
get a false reading.
Cylinder head gasket –
It is a multi layer steel gasket type. Do not use any oil or shellac on the
cylinder head gasket or on the block face or the cylinder head face. The
gasket has to be fitted dry.
The gasket can be assembled any face up or down. However it is

suggested that the face with the numbers should be facing up.
Piston & Rings –
While fitting the piston rings ensure that the rings end gap are staggered
in 120°.
The first ring end gap should not be on the thrust axis but the minor axis
i.e. on the gudgeon pin axis. Please note that the first ring is keystone
shaped hence the top mark has to face up. The 2nd ring is taper faced. The


face, which should be on the top, has to be facing up. The 3rd ring is the
conformable type oil ring. It can be assembled either way.
While assembling the piston on to the liner- apply clean oil liberally on
the liner surface.
Bearing shells –
Before fitting the bearing shell ensure that the parent bore of the
block/connecting rod are clean.
Wipe with a clean cloth the back end of shells before assembling on to the
block or connecting rod.
Ensure that the bearing shells are located properly in the notches.
Oil seals –
Ensure that
9 All the oil seals are fitted using the dolly MST.
9 Always ensure that the lip is coated with grease before fitment.
9 Apply engine oil on the outside diameter of seal. The receiving bore
should be free of burrs, dent.
Testing –
After the engine is reassembled in the engine stand; it is recommended

that:
The engine is assembled back to the vehicle. All the connections are
made.
9 Start the engine

9 Run at idle for 5 minute. Observe for leaks.
9 Drive the vehicle at 50% of the maximum speed in each gear for about
10 to 30 Km each (Aprox.)
9 Hand over the vehicle to customer to drive with speed limitation for
2000 Kms.
9 After 5000 Kms. Readjust the fan belt and tappet clearance. Change
the engine oil.


DO NOT RUN THE ENGINE WITHOUT LOAD FOR HOURS FOR BEDDING IN.
THIS PROCESS ONLY HARMS THE ENGINE.
RUNNING THE ENGINE WITHOUT LOAD CAUSE RING FLUTTERING AND

DAMAGE TO RINGS AS WELL AS LINERS.
RUNNING THE ENGINE AT IDLE FOR PROLONGED TIME HAS SERIOUS

CONSEQUENCES ON MAJOR ENGINE COMPONENTS


Specifications & Wear Data –
Figure Description Value

Bore 94 mm
Stroke 90 mm
Power- Max 113 BHP @ 3800
Torque-Max 260 Nm@1800
Firing Order 1-3-4-2
Direction of rotation Clockwise from fan side
Compression Standard Service Limit

Pressure 30 bar
Piston Re-entrant Bowl
Piston Pin Full floating. Surface

hardened & ground.
Oil grade & Quantity API grade CH4

Viscosity Index 15W40
6 litres
Maximile Supreme
Cylinder liner Replaceable wet type Cast
Iron



Tappet clearance
(Cold)
Inlet 0.45 mm
Exhaust 0.45 mm
Inlet valve
OPENS 4°BTDC
CLOSES 12°ABDC
Exhaust Valve
OPENS 31°BBDC
CLOSES 2°ATDC
Oil pump shaft Standard Service

Limit
13.984/13.966 13.956
Oil pump shaft Bush Standard Service

Limit
14.000/14.018 14.038
Oil filter bypass 0.8 bar

opening pressure
Relief valve opening 2.5/3.5 bar
pressure ( for gear
drive engines only)
Oil pressure at
Idle ( 60∼80°C) 2.5 bar
Max speed( 60∼80°C)
Piston ring to groove Standard Service Limit

clearance
1st ring 0.11/0.15 0.25
2nd ring 0.05/0.09 0.15
3rd ring 0.04/0.072 0.15



Piston ring end gaps Standard Service Limit
1st ring 0.33/0.55 0.9

2nd ring 0.8/1.05 1.5
3rd ring 0.25/0.55 0.9
Gudgeon pin O.D φ 32/31.994
Connecting rod – Standard

Small end bush I.D φ 32.041/32.025
in assembled
condition
Gudgeon pin to Standard Service Limit
connecting rod small 0.047/0.025 0.05
end bush clearance.
piston pin hole 0.017/0.004 0.03
clearance
Piston weights
grading 836-840 gm
A 841-845 gm
B 846-850 gm
C 851-855 gm
D 856-860 gm
E
Connecting rod
grading as per
weights ≥ 1260
F ≥1265
G ≥1270
H ≥1275
I ≥1280
J ≥1285
K ≥1290
L
≥1295
M
≥1300
N
O ≥1305
P ≥1310
≥1315

R ≥1320
S ≥1325 to 1330
T
U M i.e. 1295 to 1300 gms
Recommended for
service replacement
Connecting rod bend 0.05 in 50mm length.
or twist
Connecting rod end Standard Service Limit
play 0.1/0.3 0.5
Crankshaft end play Standard Service Limit

0.10/0.37 0.5
Camshaft end play Standard Service Limit

01/0.3 0.4
Liner projection from 0.02/0.09

crankcase top
surface
X Axis- Along C/s Standard Limit
Y Axis- Perpendicular
to cranks shaft φ ID 94.022/94.04
A- 25 mm
X axis B- -86.6 mm Roundness ≤ 0.05
C- 113 mm
D- 163 mm Cylindricty ≤ 0.05
Roundness/Ovality-
Difference in X & Y
plane at any pt.
Cylindricity/Taper -
Difference in same
plane x/y at any
point



Crankcase top Standard Service Limit
surface distortion 0.07 0.1
Cylinder head Standard Service Limit

bottom face 0.05 0.1
distortion
Height of cylinder Standard Service Limit
head from top to 97.7/98.3 97.4
bottom face
Rocker lever bush I.D 22.0
( in pressed
condition)
Rocker shaft O.D 21.98/21.980
∅
Rocker to shaft Standard Service Limit
clearance 0.02/0.06 0.2
Push rod bent Standard Service Limit

≤ 0.25 0.4
Valve spring Standard Service Limit

Free Length 53.6 50.6
Squareness 0.15 0.2
Installed 381.5N/43 mm 347 N
Load/Installed length
Valve seat angle 44°45′ to 45°
Valve stem O.D

Inlet 6.95/7.10
Exhaust 6.95/7.10
Valve to Valve guide

clearance
Inlet 0.03/0.07
Exhaust 0.05/0.09



Thickness of the Standard Service Limit
valve head
2.0 1.5
Chain Duplex bush type

98 Links, Endless & Riveted.
38 Teeth
Crank Sprocket 22 Teeth
Idler Sprocket 28 Teeth
HPP Sprocket
Difference between Standard Service Limit
Cam height & base
circle diameter
Inlet 6.0796 5.5796

Exhaust 6.9076 6.4076
Camshaft Bush I.Dφ 49.025/49.0
Camshaft Journal 48.98/48.95

O.D
Camshaft bush to Standard Service Limit
cam journal 0.02/0.075 0.1
clearance
Camshaft bend ≤ 0.01
I.D of tappet hole in 24.48

crankcase
Tappet to tappet Standard Service Limit

hole clearance 0.02/0.075 0.15



Crankshaft pin Standard Service Limit
∅ OD 53.0/52.981
Roundness/Ovality ≤ 0.01 0.03
Cylindricity/Taper ≤ 0.012 0.03
Main Bearing oil Standard Service Limit

clearance 0.016/0.074 0.1
Undersize of the c/s Dimensions of the crankpin.

crank pin ∅ OD
52.75/52.731
0.25mm US 52.50/52.481
0.50 mm US 52.25/52.231
0.75 mm US
Crankshaft journal Standard Service Limit
59.0/58.981
∅ OD ≤ 0.005 0.03
Roundness/ Ovality ≤ 0.008 0.02
Cylindricity/ Taper
Undersize of the c/s Dimensions of the journal

journal pin ∅ OD
0.25mm US 58.75/58.371
0.50 mm US 58.50/58.481
0.75 mm US 58.25/58.231
Crankshaft bend Standard Service Limit

≤ 0.025 0.06
! FILLETS ARE HARDENED. DO
CAUTION NOT ATTEMPT TO
STRAIGTEN
Crankshaft fillet Standard Service
radius Limits
3.0/3.5



Crankshaft Hardness 50 HRC
Minimum
Connecting rod Standard Service Limit

Bearing oil clearance 0.016/0.040 0.070
The Maximum length

of bolts after which
they can not be used
Cylinder head bolts 136.6/135.4 mm

Main Bearing Bolts 90.6/89.4mm
Connecting rod Replace everytime
Flywheel bolts length 29.58/30.42 mm
Thermostat
Starts opening at 80~84°C
Fully opens at 96°C
Water pump pulley 1.3

ratio
Flywheel 35 ± 0.13
Width from Mounting
face to clutch face
Flywheel Standard Service Limit

≤ 0.05 0.1
Flatness ≤ 0.05 0.1
Runout


Lubricants & Sealants –
Mahindra Maximile Supreme Or any other engine oil conforming to API

grade CH4 or above and a viscosity Index of 15W 40.
If any oil conforming to CG4 grade is used then the oil change interval
is 7000 Kms. Oils of MIL 2104 C or below are not acceptable
RTV silicone sealant - RHODOSEAL. Part number 0024532 to be used:
Between Rear oil seal retainer & Block

Between ladder frame & block
All other places Loctite 547. Part number 0084337 are used.
Hard gaskets are used only at: -

Cylinder head Gasket.
Turbocharger to Exhaust manifold mounting.
Exhaust manifold to cylinder head.
Exhaust manifold to EGR pipe
EGR pipe to elbow.
Rust cleaning solution (For the Turbocharger mounting nuts):
Brand Name: WD-40---

Manufacturer- WD-40 COMPANY


Tightening Torque’s --
Description Torque Value

Bolt - Cylinder head 90Nm+ 60°+ 60° ( 66.4 Lbft+60°+
60°)
Connecting rod cap Mounting bolts 45 Nm+ 90° ( 33 Lbft +90°)
Main Bearing cap 168±17 Nm ( 123 ±12.5 Lbft)
Flywheel 90 Nm + 60° ( 66 Lbft+ 60°)
Cranks shaft pulley 90 Nm + 90°+ 90°
(apply oil on bolt before
tightening)
Cam sprocket mounting bolts 135 ± 10 Nm
HPP Mounting Nut 30 ± 3 Nm
Idler Shaft Mounting Bolts
M8 X 1.25 25 ± 3 Nm
M7 X 1.00 15 ± 3 Nm
HPP sprocket lock nut 70 ± 5 Nm
Camshaft thrust Plate mounting 25 ± 3 Nm ( 18.4 ± 2.2 Lbft)
Bolts
Viscous Fan clutch nut 45 ± 5 Nm
Injector holding clamping bolts 25 ± 3 Nm ( 18.4 ± 2.2 Lbft)
Front cover on crankcase 25 ± 3 Nm ( 18.4 ± 2.2 Lbft)
Oil jet Assembly bolt 10 ± 1 Nm
M6
Alternator Bracket bolts on 40 ± 5 Nm
Cylinder head
Alternator brace bolt on alternator 32.5 ± 2.5 Nm
bracket
High Pressure Pipe – HPP to Rail 20±2 Nm
High Pressure Pipe to Injector 27 ± 2 Nm
High Pressure Pipe to rail 35 Nm
Rail mounting on intake manifold 22.5 ± 2.5 Nm
Phase Sensor Mounting on Ft. 8 ± 0.5 Nm
cover
Damper Pulley Mounting Bolt 90 Nm +90°+ 90°
Chain Guide (Cam shaft to HPP) 14 ± 1 Nm
Mounting Bolts
Chain Guide (HPP to Idler
Sprocket) Mounting Bolts

Special Tools --
Description / Part No. / Sketch Usage View

Piston Ring Compressor
MST 262
Holder Assembly for rear oil seal

installer
MST 264
Rear Oil Seal Installer

MST 265
Flywheel Lock
MST 271


Lock Pin for Chain Tensioner

MST 273
Special Spanner for Nut - Engine

Mounting -- MST – 542
Extractor Flywheel Bearing

MST – 543
Drift Flywheel Bearing

MST – 544



Wrench Oil Filter Remover
MST – 545
Cylinder Head Bolt Deep Socket

MST 588


NEF Non-CRDe Engines
Contents
Description
Trouble Shooting
Care of the System
In Car Repairs
Working principle, of the variou s subsystems of the Engine.

Dismantling & overhauling of the Engine.
Working Principle, Dismantling & Overhauling of the Turbocharger
Specifications & Wear Data
Tightening Torque’s
List of the MST

Description –
The 2.49 & 2.6 liter is Turbocharged & Intercooled direct injected diesel engine.
The specifications for both the Engines are as mentioned below:
ENGINE
SPECS 2.49 L 2.6 L
BORE 94 94
STROKE 90 94
POWER 105 BHP @ 3800 rpm 115 BHP @ 3800 rpm
TORQUE 257 Nm @ 1800 rpm 283 Nm @ 1800 rpm
A waste gated turbocharger controls the boost to 2.2 bar. The compressed air
is cooled by the charge intercooler which is mounted upstream of the
turbocharger. The cooled air enters the inlet manifold’s plenum and it enters
the Cast iron cylinder head through the inlet valves having a 45-degree
angle.
The piston features re-entrant type combustion chamber and having ferrous
ring insert in the Top ring groove. A 3-ring pack is used. The top ring is
asymmetrical barrel face and with CKS coating and keystone shape. The 2nd
ring is taper faced. The 3rd is Conformable Oil Ring. The piston is having an
offset of 0.5 mm
The forged connecting rod is connected to induction-hardened crankshaft.

The small end of the connecting rod is trapezoidal shaped to reduce the mass
as well as to ensure higher loading. The crankshaft is induction hardened
with the filets hardened & ground. The flywheel has a shrunk fit ring gear
and also a ball bearing to act as pilot for the gearbox input shaft. The front
end is having a rubber moulded dampener pulley
The FIP and the camshaft are driven by chain. The valves are overhead
valves.
Trouble Shooting –
Refer to the Service diagnosis chart. Additional tests & diagnostic procedures
may be necessary for specific engine complaints that can not be isolated
using only the diagnostic chart.
Information concerning the additional checks is provided within the following
diagnostic.
Cylinder compression pressure Test –
The results of the cylinder compression test can be utilized to diagnose

several engine malfunctions.
Before carrying out the compression test ensure that the battery is in good
working condition. Otherwise the indicated pressures may not be valid for
diagnostic purpose.
Remove all the injectors.

Fit the dummy injector (MST no. ) and connect it with the compression
gauge.
Disconnect the FIP’s solenoid.
Crank the engine.
Note the compression value should be 30 bars.
Repeat the procedure for the other cylinder.
Refer to the Specification for the value.
Engine cylinder Head Gasket Failure Diagnosis
A leaking engine cylinder head gasket usually results in loss of power, loss of
coolant and engine misfiring, overheating and poor fuel economy.
An engine cylinder head gasket leak can be:

A. Between adjacent cylinders
Or
B. Between a cylinder and adjacent water jacket.
Cylinder head gasket failure between cylinders is indicated by

Loss of power and /or engine misfiring.
Cylinder head gasket leaking between a cylinder and coolant passage results
in coolant foaming or overheating and loss of coolant indicate an engine
water jackets.
Cylinder to Cylinder Leakage Test:
Check the cylinder compression pressure as already explained. Leakage

between cylinders will be result in drop of compression pressure by nearly 50
to 70% in the affected cylinders.
Cylinder to Water jacket Leakage Test –

• Remove the radiator cap.
• Warm up the engine and allow it to warm up until the engine thermostat
opens.
• If large combustion /combustion pressure leak exist, bubbles will be
visible in coolant.
• If bubbles are not visible, install a radiator pressure tester and pressurize
the cooling circuit. If a cylinder is leaking combustion pressure into the
water jackets then the tester’s needle will pulsate with every combustion
stroke of the cylinder.

Engine will not start 1. Air intake 9 Clean the element or
& emit black smoke obstructed replace the element.
9 Check for free operation
of Turbocharger.
2. Defective 9 Calibrate injectors.

injectors 9 Check compression
3. Lack of pressure.- if low check
compression. for valve seat ,rings &
liner wear
9 Replace the cyl. head
4. Cylinder head gasket.
gasket failure 9 Check engine timing.
5. Engine timing-
Valve and FIP
injection timing.
Noisy engine & black 1. Improper 9 Check & correct the
smoke. injection timing. Timing.
2. Faulty injectors. 9 Clean or replace
injectors
3. Loose main 9 Tighten the main
bearings bearings.
4. Broken parts 9 Inspect and replace the
5. Rockers loose or broken parts.
out of
adjustment. 9 Adjust tappet.
Engine speed falls 1. Defective FIP. 9 Rectify the FIP.
off. 2. FIP solenoid 9 Check & connect
connection properly the 12 V supply
improper. to solenoid.
3. Throttle lever or
accelerator cable 9 Check the accelerator
cable & throttle lever.
Engine does not give 1. Air intake 9 Clean filter, replace if

full power. restricted. required.
2. Clogged fuel 9 Replace filters.
filter. 9 Adjust tappets in cold
3. Incorrect tappet condition.
clearance 9 Check & correct timing.
4. Injection pump 9 Calibrate injectors
timing. 9 Plug the leaks, replace
5. Defective hose or clip if required.
injectors.
6. Air leaks in
pressure line
after
turbocharger( 9 Replace the hose or
Turbo to tighten
intercooler,interc 9 Locate the kink/block in
ooler & return pipe and rectify.
intercooler to 9 Check the pipe, washer
intake manifold) & rectify.
7. Air leak in pipe – 9 Check the compression,
manifold to FIP relap if required.
8. Fuel return pipe 9 Get the Turbocharger
to tank blocked. repaired at authorized
9. Boost pressure TEL dealer.
pipe/hose 9 Replace gaskets.
assembly
damaged. 9 Replace Turbocharger
10. Valve leak
9 Tighten the TC mounting

11. Turbocharger bolts. Replace gasket if
damaged. required.
9 Remove the restriction in
12. Gas leaks exhaust system.
between exhaust
manifold & 9 Change the gasket or the
cylinder head. hose.
13. Restricted
exhaust system. 9 Replace the pipe.
9 Remove the restriction.
14. Exhaust gas
leak between
turbo & manifold. 9 Fit the correct banjos
15. Gas leak
between EGR 9 Check the EGR using the
pipe joints blink codes. Proceed
16. EGR pipe leak. appropriately.
17. Fuels supply
line kink creating
restriction.
18. FIP inlet & 9 Repair or replace the
outlet banjos FIP.
interchanged.
19. EGR valve 9 Check compression.
improper
functioning.
9 Replace piston rings.
20. Defective FIP
21. Compression 9 Check the VFD as

leak. outlined in cooling.
Replace if required.
22. Jammed piston

rings
23. Viscous fan

continuously
engaged.

Irregular idling 1. Leaking HP 9 Tighten the unions or
unions. replace the High-
pressure pipes.
9 Replace the accelerator
2. Accelerator cable cable.
sticky 9 Replace all the banjo
3. Air entering into washers and check for
fuel system. the cracks in fuel line
particularly from Tank to
FIP
9 Check all the pipes, for
4. Vacuum cracks, aging leaks-
connection from replace.
alternator to
FICD leak. 9 Replace the vacuum
5. Vacuum solenoid solenoid valve.
valve of FICD.
9 Adjust the idling stop.
6. Idling stop out of 9 Replace FICD.
adjustment
7. Defective FICD. 9 Repair or replace FIP.
8. Defective FIP

smoke ( White/ gasket defective. head gasket.
Grey) 2. Worn out or 9 Lap the valve seats or
damaged valve regrind.
seats.
3. FIP timing 9 Check the FIP timing.
4. Leaking injector 9 Tighten the injector
holder holder.


Black smoke. 1. Air intake 9 Check for hoses, clean or
restricted. replace element.
2. Incorrect tappet 9 Adjust tappets.

setting.
3. Defective 9 Check injectors.
injectors 9 Correct the timing
4. Improper FIP
timing 9 Check for leaks between
5. Air leaks. Turbocharger to
intercooler, intercooler
& intercooler to inlet
manifold.
6. EGR valve stuck 9 Check the EGR valve
open
7. Defective FIP. 9 Rectify or replace FIP.
8. Restricted 9 Remove restriction or
exhaust system. replace parts.
9. Gas leak between 9 Replace manifold gasket
exhaust manifold or parts.
& cylinder head.
10. Worn out 9 Overhaul engine.
rings, liners &
valves.

consumption line hoses. from the alternator to
FICD and the EGR valve
(check for leaks, crack.
Replace cracked hoses.
9 Clean or replace
2. Clogged air filter elements.
element. 9 Locate & remove
restriction.
3. Restriction in air
intake to 9 Remove the restriction in
compressor duct. the drainpipe.
4. Restrictions in
turbocharger oil 9 Check the crankcase
drain line. ventilation & rectify.
5. Restriction in
crankcase
breather.
6. Damaged oil 9 Replace the oil separator

separator
7. Turbocharger 9 Change oil, filter, service
damaged. the Turbocharger & use
recommended oils &
drain intervals. Follow
the recommended
down.
8. Worn out rings, 9 Repair Turbocharger.
liners, and 9 Overhaul engine.
valves.
9. External oil leaks 9 Stop the external oil
leakages.
10. Leakages 9 Change the vacuum
through inlet hoses.
manifold 9 Change the manifold
mounting face gasket or replace the
allowing dust manifold.
entry.
11. Bend/kink in 9 Remove the bend or

any of the oil kinks.
return
pipe’s/vacuum
hoses.
12. Defective 9 Replace the vacuum
vacuum pump. pump.


Blue smoke. 1. Clogged air filter 9 Clean or replace
element. elements.
2. Restriction in air
intake to 9 Locate & remove
compressor duct. restriction.
3. Air leak between
the Turbocharger 9 Locate the leaks,
to intake change hose or clamp if
manifold. required.
4. Excess oil.
9 Correct the oil level.
5. Wear in valve
seal. 9 Check the valve stem
seals, replace if
6. Wear in piston required.
rings & liner. 9 Check the compression
pressure, replace rings &
7. TC oil seal leaks liners.
9 Check the Turbocharger
if defective get it
attended.
White smoke. 1. Improper FIP 9 Check & correct timing.
timing.
2. Defective
cylinder head 9 Replace the cylinder
gasket. head gasket.
9 Check & correct KSB.
3. Cold start
advance not 9 Use the correct banjo
working. with new banjo washers.
4. Inlet or outlet
banjo not proper. 9 Remove the restrictions.
5. Restriction in fuel
supply


Starter will not work 1. Electrical 9 See the electrical
or only cranks complaints. section.
slightly 2. Check water
level. 9 If water level reduced
drastically then check
for hydrostatic lock.
3. Hydrostatic lock 9 Remove the water in the
cylinder and find the
cause for water entry.
Starter will not 1. Weak battery. 9 Check the battery
crank the engine. specific gravity.
2. Corroded or loose 9 Clean & tighten battery
battery connections.
connection 9 Repair starter.
3. Faulty starter. 9 Rectify earthing.
4. Improper 9 Check connection or
earthing. replace solenoid.
5. Defective FIP’s 9 Check the FIP timing.
solenoid. 9 Replace FIP
6. Faulty FIP timing.
7. Faulty FIP.
Noisy valves 1. Tappets loose. 1. Set the tappet
2. Rocker arms clearances.
touching the 2. Install the correct rocker
rocker cover. cover gasket. If after
that also the problem
3. Thin or diluted persist change the rocker
oil. cover.
4. Low oil pressure. 3. Change oil.
5. Bent push rods. 4. Check the oil level.
6. Worn rocker 5. Install new push rods.
arms. 6. Replace the rocker arms.
7. Worn valve 7. Replace the valve
guides. guides.
8. Excessive runout 8. Grind valve seats and
of valves seats valves.
9. Oil thickening 9. Replace oil & find the
reasons of thickening,
rectify.

Oil pressure drop 1. Low oil level. 9 Check engine oil level.
2. Defective oil 9 Install new sensor.
pressures sensor.
3. Clogged oil filter. 9 Replace filter.
4. Clogged oil cooler 9 Clean the oil cooler.
5. Clogged oil 9 Clean the strainer.
strainer.
6. Pressure relief 9 Clean the valve & bore
valve in oil filter and assemble.
bracket stuck.
7. 9 Check
Oil leaks- internal the gasket
between the block &
front cover or any of the
8. Worn parts in oil MOG plugs
pump. 9 Replace the worn parts
9. Excessive oil or pump.
clearances 9 Check oil clearances.
10. Thin or diluted
oil. 9 Change oil to correct
viscosity.
11. Excessive 9 Remove the valve,
bearing inspect, clean & refit.
clearance. 9 Remove sump, inspect
12. Oil pump relief the parts & replace.
valve stuck.
13. Oil pump
suction tube
loose, bent or 9 Install new pump.
cracked.
14. Oil pump
cover warped or
cracked
Oil leaks 1. Worn oil seals 9 Replace seals.
2. Misaligned or 9 Replace gasket.
deteriorated
gaskets.
3. Loose fastener, 9 Tighten fastener
broken or porous 9 Repair or replace.
metal parts
Care of the System –
The performance of the engine is dependent on ensuring that the following

maintenance is carried out as per the schedule without fail.
Fan belt tension: To be checked and adjusted if required at every 10,000

Kms.
Air cleaner: The air cleaner element to be cleaned at every 10,000 Kms. If
the red band shows earlier then the element has to be cleaned. The element
should be replaced at every 40,000 Kms or when the element paper is torn
when inspected by a light bulb. For the detailed procedure, refer to the Air
Intake System.
Oil: The oil filter and the oil should be changed every 10,000 Kms. The oil
should conform to CG4 grade and with a viscosity Index of 15W40. It should
be kept in mind that in the turbocharger engine the oil has to have do an
additional load of lubricating and cooling the Turbocharger shaft If any oil of
lower specification is used it can break down under the high thermal load at
the turbine end of the shaft especially during the hot shutdown.
This oil grade also ensures that the oil consumption is within the desire
limits. Use Maximile Premium Grade of oils. (If oil conforming to CF4 grade
is used then oil change interval has to be made 7000 Kms. Oil below CG 4
are not acceptable i.e. MIL 2104 C oils are not acceptable)
Cooling system: Ensure that no leakages are present. For details of the
coolant and ratio refer the Cooling System.
Turbocharger: The engine is having an exhaust gas driven turbocharger. The

turbocharger shaft speed varies from about40, 000 when engine is idling to
about 1,70,000 when the engine is having the full rated RPM.
Thus it very critical that while shutting down, the engine is allowed to run at
idle for at least one minute. Similarly the engine should be run at idle for 1
minute at starting before accelerating. Refer Turbocharger in the Intake
system for further details.

EGR: On vehicles fitted with EGR system the following additional points
check have to done during scheduled maintenance.
• Check blink codes every 10,000 kms.
Tappet setting has to be carried out every 20000. Kilometers.
While doing the tappet clearance, in case of vehicle fitted with EGR system
ensure that the EGR pipe is not bend or overstress the pipes, elbow.
If the pipes are removed then it is essential that while fitting back new
gaskets be used. Do not open the pipe from one end only; it will cause the
ends.

In Car Repairs –
The in car repairs which can be carried out are:

Tappet setting
Accessory Belt tension adjustment.
Accessory belt removal & Refitment.
VFD Assembly with Fan Blade removal
FIP Removal & Refitment
Oil filter changing.
Turbocharger removal & Refitment.
Cylinder head gasket Replacement.
Idling Setting

Tappet setting –
Remove the oil filler cap and the

pipe from the ladder frame to the
rocker cover.
Remove the tappet cover mounting

Allen screws along with the rubber
washer
Remove the tappet cover.

Adjust the tappets as per the firing
order.
The tappet clearance should be

adjusted in cold condition and
values are Inlet – 0.3 mm &
Exhaust 0.45 mm
Ex –In- Ex- In- Ex- In- Ex- In Note: The valves layout is (from
the front) Ex –In-Ex-In-Ex-In-Ex-In
To rotate the engine it is

suggested that the Gear be
engaged and one rear wheel lifted
and the wheel turned.

Accessory Belt tension adjustment –
Loosen the center bolt
Adjust the tension by tightening

the tension bolt.
Tighten the center bolt.
Measure the belt tension using the

clevis gauge.
If not found ok, repeat

Loosen the belt tension-loosen the

tension bolt.
Loosen the center bolt.
Deactivate the belt tension by

moving the belt tensioner away
Remove the accessory belt. If
required the fan shrouds can be
removed and the belt removed.

Fan Blade & viscous fan drive removal & assembly –
Caution: Do not remove the

accessory belt before the
removing the nut.

loosen then the direction of
rotation has to be clockwise
when viewed from front.
Do not tamper or service the

center portion of the fan.
The nut should rest on pulley

after tightening.
The fan blade assembly and the
VFD assembly can be removed
together.
FIP Removal & Refitment
Bring the 1st cylinder in

compression.

(To confirm the first cylinder TDC

injector, insert the MST and the
dial gauge. Check by the dial if
the piston is in TDC)
To lock the FIP

Loosen the timing lock bolt. Move
the lock plate away & then
tighten the Timing lock bolt so
that it locks the camshaft.
After locking the FIP – do not

rotate the engine. If rotated it
can damage the FIP’s camshaft
Remove the VFD assembly along

with the fan blade assembly.

Remove the FIP connections and

fuel supply.
Remove the FIP mounting bracket
Remove the FIP inspection cover
If the piston is not in TDC then the

holes will not align with the block.
As a consequence when the MST is
used subsequently the MST can
break.

Rotate the engine to align three

holes of FIP sprocket with three
tapped hole provided on crank case
for mounting threaded pins of FIP
removal tool.
FIT the three nos.-threaded pins

(Detail no. 2 of MST tool) on
crankcase through FIP sprocket
holes and tightened with 17-mm
spanner.


Insert three slotted pins (Detail no.

5 ) in the other three holes of FIP
sprocket and rest against
crankcase face (The marking F
provided on the pin should face
front side)

bottom portion of slot will butt
against the back face of sprocket
when FIP shaft is pushed away
from sprocket.

mounting the FIP flange on the
crankcase
Remove the FIP sprocket-mounting

Nut
Assemble the Flange of MST tool
(Detail no. 1) with help three M8
bolts on the face of three threaded
pins.
Ensure that the plate is butting

properly on the three pins.
Now assemble the M 16 threaded

bolt (Detail no. 3) on the flange.
Rotate the threaded bolt with
24mm spanner so that FIP is
pushed out from the sprocket.

Please hold the FIP with hand

while pushing out from sprocket.
Do not remove all the pins i.e.

detail no. 2 & 5 till FIP is
reassembled on the sprocket.
(If the MST is removed while the

FIP is not in place then chance of
sprocket getting bent and later
the chain failure is high.)
While fitting back the FIP. The

plunger travel of the FIP has to be
checked. Remove the center bolt
at the back. Mount the dial gauge
using the special tool.
Caution: After fitting back the FIP,

loosen the timing lock bolt. Fit the
plate and then retighten .So that
the camshaft is free. Failure to do
so will damage the FIP’s camshaft
when the engine is rotated.
The plunger travel of the FIP is
Euro II engine- 1.2 +/-0.05 mm

Oil filter removal & refitting –
Remove the right side wheel

apron.

545
After removal, ensure that the

central stud is fully tight.
It can work out loose while

removal of the filter.
If it has worked loose then tighten

it to torque of 25-30 Nm ( 18-22
Lbft)
While fitting the new oil filter. Apply oil on the “O” rings.
Tighten by hand only.

Remove the right side wheel

apron.
545
Remove the oil cooler assembly
The above 3 steps are suggested

for ease of operations & access.

turbocharger.
Please cover the opening to the

turbocharger with cover to avoid
accidentally dropping any foreign
object e.g. spanner

Remove the exhaust pipe from

after the elbow. (Access is only
after lifting it on a two post or in a
pit and using a extension with UJ.)
Remove the oil feed pipe and the

oil return pipe.

cleaning spray (WD 40) in the
nuts before attempting to remove
otherwise, the stud will come
off.)
Remove the turbocharger mounting

3 nuts.

Cylinder Head Gasket Removal & Refitment –
Remove the Injector’s high-

pressure pipes.
Remove the Fan blade assembly

along with VFD
Remove the Accessory Belt

Remove the Water pump.
Remove the Turbocharger

Remove the cylinder head bolts
2 8 9 5 3
Note: While removing ensure that
the bolts loosening is the reverse of
7
the tightening sequence
4 6 10 1
Remove the Cylinder head

assembly.
Measure the length of the cylinder
head bolt. If it is up to 135 mm
then the bolt can be reused.
If the length is more than 135 mm,

use new bolt.
The cylinder head gasket is of the

Multi Layer Steel (MLRS) Type
gasket. Though it can be assembled
either way it is recommended that
for optimum performance the Top,
which is identified by the lettering,
is facing upward.
(The cylinder Head gasket cannot
be reused – even if it appears to be
good.)
Do not use any sealant/lubricant
like shellac or oil on either block
or head or gasket face.
The cylinder head bolts are to be

tightened with slight trace of clean
engine oil. (2-3 drops only). Do not
put excess quantity of oil
The tightening sequence is as

shown.
9 3 2 6 8 The tightening torque’s is
90 Nm then followed by 60-degree
angular torque. Again torque by 60
7 5 1 4 10 degree.
The angular torque in 2 stages

ensure that the
tightening/clamping loads of all the
bolts are very close to each other.

Working principle, of the various subsystems of the Engine –
The various subsystems are:
Turbocharger: Please refer to the Air Intake System section.
Exhaust Gas Recirulation
Crankcase ventilation
Oil circulation.

Working Principle of the Exhaust Gas Recirculation –
Vacuum
Modulator
Temperature Exhaust Air
Sensor E
C
Speed Sensor
(Alternator) U Engine EGR Valve
Vacuum
Reservoi
Load Sensor
Intake Air
Alternator
with Vacuum
pump
During acceleration and in higher loads the combustion chamber

temperatures increase. The high combustion temperatures increase the NOx
generation. The higher percentage of NOx generated in the combustion
chamber come out through the tail pipe in the atmosphere.
To reduce the amount of NOx coming through the tail pipe the EGR system
adds exhaust gases into the fresh air that is going into the combustion
chamber. Since the exhaust gas is already burnt hence when mixed with
fresh air acts an inert gas. Thus when the exhaust gas mixed with fresh air
enters the combustion chamber, it performs a dual role. The first role it does
is that it reduces the amount of oxygen available for combustion. The second
role that it acts is as a heat absorbent/heat sink.
The net effect is that it reduces the combustion temperatures. This results in
lower amount of NOx being generated.
To control the amount/percentage of exhaust gases to be circulated back to

the combustion chamber an ECU is used. The ECU monitors the coolant
temperature, attitude, engine speed, and accelerator pedal position. Based
on the above parameters the ECU operates a switch that in turn controls the
amount of vacuum going to the EGR valve. The amount of vacuum applied
controls the lift of the EGR valve. The lift of the EGR valve is sensed. This lift
is used as feedback signal to the ECU
EGR Valve –
Remove the EGR valve and check it valve-sticking, deposition of carbon etc.
If excess carbon deposits and sticky valve noticed then it should be cleaned
with a suitable solvent, so that the correct valve seat is ensured.
After cleaning the valve blow air from the bottom side of the valve and check
for any leakages.
EGR Pipe –
To check the pipe for any leakages, close one end of flange and from other
end blow air at 2 bars. Dip the pipe in water and observe if any leakage is
observed. If any leaks are observed then the pipe has to be replaced. Do not
attempt to weld/ seal the leakage joint
EGR Solenoid switch –
Vacuum Modulator Valve –
Does not require any maintenance. However please check and confirm that
that the line from the modulator to air cleaner is clean and the hole at the
air cleaner hose end is not choked.

Caution:
Ensure that the
tying clips are
not too tight &
pinching/
strangulating
the hoses.
The ventilation system is closed ventilation type. A hose connects the sump
assembly to the rocker cover. This hose balances the gas pressure in the
rocker cover and sump. The second hose goes from the rocker cover to the
oil separator. This hose also has a coarse mesh, which trap the bigger
particles.
The vapors with the oil particle enter the separator and due to the
centrifugal action are again separated. The vacuum after the air cleaner acts
on to the top of the diaphragm. The balance of the vacuum against the
spring and the vapor pressure controls the amount of the oil going to the
sump.

The Oil circulation system —
An external gear type pump sucks the oil through the strainer. The oil pump
is driven by the gear, which is mounted, on the crankshaft.
(Oil pump is identified by phosphating on cover plate.)
The oil pump delivers pressurized oil to the supply bore in the block. This oil
is delivered to the oil cooler and after getting cooled comes on the outer side
of the element. The filtered oil goes through the center of the oil filter and
is connected to the main oil gallery.
The main oil gallery runs to the front of the block where it is delivered to the
timing cover. From therein it takes a small loop in the timing cover and again
comes to the front of the block. Goes to another oil gallery. Oil from this
gallery supplies oil to the piston cooling jets
Oil from the main oil gallery goes to the crankshaft main journal and
camshaft, while from the rear end it is supplied to the alternator’s vacuum
pump. The oil supply for the turbocharger is from the oil filter bracket.
The oil routed from the main oil gallery lubricates the timing gears and the
idler gear bush. Part of this oil gets sprayed from idler shaft hole. The
camshaft gear and the thrust plate are lubricated by engine oil routed from
the first camshaft bushing through the camshaft hole.
The oil from the First camshaft bush goes to the top of the cylinder and
enters an oil gallery, which extend upto 110 mm from the front. Oil from this
gallery comes to the base of the first rocker shaft-mounting bracket. The oil
then enters the rocker shaft. Oil enters the rocker bushing at through two
holes facing the bottom half. At the same time it sprays from the oil hole at
the side of the rocker to lubricate the valve stem and the surfaces over
which the valve cap slides. The oil then returns to the sump through the push
rod holes in the cylinder head.
In both the oil cooler and oil filter, bypass valves are provided which operate
if the differential pressure exceeds 0.8 bar.

Dismantling & overhauling of the Engine –
Comprise of 5 steps:
Removal of the engine
Dismantling.
Inspection
Assembly
Testing

Removal of the engine from the vehicle –
Disconnect the battery cables &

remove the battery.
Remove the bonnet.
Remove the bottom encapsulation

as well as the encapsulation on top
and side panels.
Remove the radiator drain cock.
Collect the coolant -if the coolant
is clean it so that it can be reused.
Remove the electrical connections
of:
Oil pressure sensor
FIP solenoid
Water temperature sensor.
Starter motor
FIP’s potentiometer socket
Remove the hose from air cleaner

to turbocharger.
All copyrights reserved by Remove the air cleaner assembly.

Remove the hose connection from

the Turbocharger end TC to
intercooler.
Remove the exhaust pipe at the

Turbocharger outlet elbow.

545
Remove the Turbocharger mounting

bolts and remove the Turbocharger.
It is recommended to remove the

! Turbocharger before the removal
in order to avoid any accidental
damage to it while removing.

Remove the oil evaporator system.
Remove the starter motor.
Remove the pipe connecting the

inlet pipe to FIP’s LDA unit.
Remove the accelerator cable.
Remove the fuel lines from filter to

FIP & return to tank

Remove hoses connecting the water

pump to radiator.
Remove the hose connected from

the water pump to heater and also
the heater return line.
Remove the radiator.

Remove the power steering

connection hoses from the power
steering pump.
Remove the pipes connecting from

AC compressor suction and
discharge lines.
Remove the vacuum hose from the

vacuum pump in alternator to
booster
Drain the oil from the sump.

Attach lifting device.
Remove the front insulators
mounting bolts,
Remove the gearbox mounting Allen
screws.
Pull out and lift the engine from
the engine compartment.

Dismantling –
After removing the engine from the

vehicle mount it on the engine stand.
Remove the High-pressure pipes.

Loosen the Viscous Fan Drives nut.

front
Loosen the tensioner bolt first. Loosen

the belt tension with the bolt on
bracket.
Remove the accessory belt.
Remove the pipe from the oil cooler to

the water pump.
Remove the water pump.

Remove the pipe oil cooler to the

block.
Remove the oil cooler.
Remove the accessory like power

steering pump. AC pump and the
alternator.

Bring the first cylinder into

compression. Confirm using the MST
Remove the front cover on the timing

cover.
Ensure that the “O” rings on the front
cover is kept securely so that it can be
! reused if
reassembly.
not damaged while
Loosen the timing lock bolt (FBB).

Remove the triangular plate and then
tighten so that the FIP’s camshaft is
locked.
Remove the FIP’s locking bolt.

Remove the FIP inspection cover

of FIP sprocket with three tapped hole
provided on crank case for mounting
threaded pins of FIP removal tool.

FIT the three nos.-threaded pins (Detail

no. 2 of MST tool) on crankcase through
FIP sprocket holes and tightened with
17-mm spanner.


Insert three slotted pins (Detail no. 5 )

in the other three holes of FIP sprocket
and rest against crankcase face (The
marking F provided on the pin should
face front side)

bottom portion of slot will butt against
the back face of sprocket when FIP
shaft is pushed away from sprocket.

mounting the FIP flange on the
crankcase
Remove the FIP sprocket-mounting Nut
Assemble the Flange of MST tool (Detail

no. 1) with help three M8 bolts on the
face of three threaded pins.
Now assemble the M 16 threaded bolt

(Detail no. 3) on the flange. Rotate the
threaded bolt with 24mm spanner so
that FIP is pushed out from the
sprocket.
Please hold the FIP with hand while

pushing out from sprocket.
Do not remove all the pins i.e. detail

no. 2 & 5 till FIP is reassembled on the
sprocket.
(If the MST is removed while the FIP is

not in place then chance of sprocket
getting bent and later the chain
failure is high.)
While fitting back the FIP. The plunger

travel of the FIP has to be checked.
Remove the center bolt at the back.
Mount the dial gauge using the special
tool.

plate and then retighten .So that the
camshaft is free. Failure to do so will
damage the FIP’s camshaft when the
engine is rotated.
1.2 =/- 0.05 mm
Remove rocker cover
Remove the cylinder head mounting

bolts.
Remove the cylinder head along with

the inlet and exhaust manifold.

Rotate the engine.
Remove the oil sump.
Remove the oil pump along with the

suction.

Remove the oil jets along with the
gasket.
Remove the connecting rod caps and

take out the pistons.

Remove the dampener pulley

Remove the tensioner pulley
Remove the timing cover.
Remove the timing chain after removing

the tensioner and chain guide.
Remove the camshaft’s main bolt and
the 2-thrust plate locking bolts.
Remove the camshaft.
Lock the flywheel using the MST 252

and loosen the flywheel mounting bolts
Remove the flywheel.

Remove the rear end oil seal with the

retainer.
Remove the main bearing bolts.
Remove the bearing caps along with

bearing shell halves.
Remove the crankshaft.
Remove the bearing shells & thrust
washers.
Rotate the engine.
Remove the cylinder liners using the
MST
Remove the tappets by reversing the

engine.

Inspection —
All the components should be inspected for wear. Any components, which are
beyond the wear limits, have to be replaced.
Over & above the wear limits: The following points also need to be ensured.
Piston: Check for scuffing/scoring on the skirt. A hard thick layer of carbon
lacquer on top land is acceptable. (If the thick layer is present on the piston
check that the liner does not have scuffing)
However scuffing of the top land and skirt giving indication of overheating
which is not acceptable.
Cylinder Liner: Any scoring on the liner is not acceptable.
Crankshaft: Check for scoring on the main as well as connecting rod journal.
If scoring is nominal and will not the increase the oil clearance then the
crankshaft can be used in, as it is condition.
However if it is unacceptable then the journal has to be ground up to service

limits only.
Any deep groove in the rear end oil seal seating area is unacceptable. It will
result in oil leaks.
Valve: If valve tip is worn out/ ridged then not acceptable
Main bearing and connecting rod bearing - If the scoring is nominal and oil
clearance is not affected, then it can be reused. However if flaking /peeling
of the bimetal in any particular zone only is present then use new shell. Look
for foreign particle embedded, deep scratches.
Dampener pulley rubber bonding- inspect for any gap between the rubber
ring and the outer/inner ring. Cracks on ring. Any deep groove in the front oil
seal seating area is unacceptable. It will lead to leakage’s.
If any deterioration of rubber or gap noticed between the ring and the rubber
replace the dampener pulley.
It is suggested that the dampener pulley be replaced at every 3,00,000 Kms.

Caution:
While measuring the inner diameter of the connecting rod big end and
main journal please take the measurements after torque tightening only.
For measurement purpose the torque should be 85±8 Nm. Do not reuse
this bolt
If line boring of the crankshaft’s journal in the block is done to rectify any
ovality. Then please ensure that the material from block half is not
removed. In absence of taking this precaution the piston will move up. It
will change the compression, influencing the performance. In the worst
case the valves can hit the piston.
Assembly –
The assembly sequence is the reverse of the dismantling procedure.

To obtain a good life of the rebuilt unit absolute cleanliness of the parts is
taken as a prerequisite and also the fact that all the parts have been
inspected.
The additional points which are mentioned are necessary to give you the
engine life same as the original engine.
Bolts – The following bolts are recommend to be replace every time they are
opened-if the Maximum length exceeds the specification. However the
connecting rod bolt has to be changed every time without exception.
The bolts have to be tightened by base torque then 2 stage angular torque.
The angular torque’s ensures that the bolts are torqued up to yield point.
And the 2 stage ensures that the clamping load for each bolt is within a very
close tolerance.
Cylinder head bolts- 10 no Maximum length 136.6/135.4 mm

Main Bearing Bolts- 10 no Maximum length 90.6/89.4mm Connecting rod
bolts- 8 no Replace everytime
Flywheel bolts- 6no Maximum length 29.58/30.42 mm

Cylinder block – Top face - Ensure that the tapping for the cylinder head
bolt as well as the crankshaft’s main journal is fine. Ensure that no water or
oil after cleaning is in the bolt holes (esp. the cylinder heads.). If found
please remove them, if necessary using cotton cloth (not cotton waste).
If the oil /water is not removed then it is possible that while tightening the
bolt. It may not allow complete tightening of the bolts and one will get a
false reading.
Cylinder head gasket –

It is a multi layer steel gasket type. Do not use any oil or shellac on the
cylinder head gasket or on the block face or the cylinder head face. The
gasket has to be fitted dry.
The gasket can be assembled any face up or down. However it is suggested

that the face with the numbers should be facing up.
Piston & Rings—

While fitting the piston rings ensure that the rings end gap are staggered in
120°.
The first ring end gap should not be on the thrust axis but the minor axis i.e.
on the gudgeon pin axis. Please note that the first ring is keystone shaped
hence the top mark has to face up. The 2nd ring is taper faced. The face,
which should be on the top, has to be facing up. The 3rd ring is the
conformable type oil ring. It can be assembled either way.
While assembling the piston on to the liner- apply clean oil liberally on the
liner surface.
Bearing shells —
Before fitting the bearing shell ensure that the parent bore of the
block/connecting rod are clean.
Wipe with a clean cloth the back end of shells before assembling on to the
block or connecting rod.
Ensure that the bearing shells are located properly in the notches.
Oil seals –
Ensure that
9 All the oil seals are fitted using the dolly MST.
Automotive Sector
9 Always ensure that the lip is coated with grease before fitment.
9 Apply engine oil on the outside diameter of seal. The receiving bore
should be free of burrs, dent.
Oil pump –
The oil pump for chain drives engine is identified by phosphating on cover
plate. CAUTION. Oil pump of chain drive engine & gear drive engine are
dimensionally similar but are not interchangeable due to difference in crack
opening pressure of pressure relief valve.
Testing –
After the engine is reassembled in the engine stand. It is recommended that:
The engine is assembled back to the vehicle. All the connections are made.
9 Start the engine

9 Run at idle for 5 minute. Observe for leaks.
9 Drive the vehicle at 50% of the maximum speed in each gear for about 10
to 30 Km each (Aprox.)
9 Hand over the vehicle to customer to drive with speed limitation for 2000
Kms.
9 After 5000 Kms. Readjust the fan belt and tappet clearance. Change the
engine oil.
DO NOT RUN THE ENGINE WITHOUT LOAD FOR HOURS FOR BEDDING IN.
THIS PROCESS ONLY HARMS THE ENGINE.
RUNNING THE ENGINE WITHOUT LOAD CAUSE RING FLUTTERING AND

DAMAGE TO RINGS AS WELL AS LINERS.
RUNNING THE ENGINE AT IDLE FOR PROLONGED TIME HAS SERIOUS
CONSEQUENCES ON MAJOR ENGINE COMPONENTS

Specifications & Wear Data –

Bore 94 mm
Stroke 90 mm
Power- Max 105 BHP @ 3800
Torque-Max 257 Nm@1800
Firing Order 1-3-4-2
Direction of rotation Clockwise from fan side
Emission limits I. Euro II
Compression Standard
Pressure 30 bar
Compression ratio 17.8
Permissible variation
of compression
pressure between
cylinders .
Piston Reentrant Bowl


Piston Pin Full floating. Surface
hardened & ground.
Oil grade & Quantity API grade CG4

Viscosity Index 15W40
6 liters
Mahindra Maximile 10 K
Cylinder liner Replaceable wet type Cast
Iron
Tappet clearance
Inlet 0.3 mm
Exhaust 0.45 mm
Inlet valve
OPENS 14°BTDC
CLOSES 30°ABDC
Exhaust Valve
OPENS 46°BBDC
CLOSES 14°ATDC
Oil pump shaft Standard Service Limit

13.984/13.966 13.956
Oil pump shaft Bush Standard Service Limit
14.000/14.018 14.038
Oil filter bypass 0.8 bar

opening pressure
Relief valve opening 2.5/3.5 bar
pressure ( for gear
drive engines only)
Oil pressure at
Idle ( 60∼80°C) 2.5 bar
Max speed( 60∼80°C)


Piston ring to groove Standard Service Limit
clearance
1st ring 0.11/0.15 0.25
2nd ring 0.05/0.09 0.15
3rd ring 0.04/0.072 0.15
Piston ring end gaps Standard Service Limit
1st ring 0.33/0.55 0.9

2nd ring 0.8/1.05 1.5
3rd ring 0.25/0.55 0.9
Gudgeon pin O.D φ 32/31.994
Connecting rod – Standard

Small end bush I.D φ 32.041/32.025
in assembled
condition
connecting rod small 0.047/0.025 0.05
end bush clearance.
piston pin hole 0.017/0.004 0.03
clearance
Piston weights
grading
A 836-840 gm
B 841-845 gm
C 846-850 gm
D 851-855 gm
E 856-860 gm


Connecting rod
grading as per
weights ≥ 1260
F ≥1265
G ≥1270
H ≥1275
I ≥1280
J ≥1285
K ≥1290
L
≥1295
M
≥1300
N
≥1305
O
P ≥1310
R ≥1315
S ≥1320
T ≥1325 to 1330
U
Recommended for M i.e. 1295 to 1300 gms
service replacement
Connecting rod bend 0.05 in 50mm length.
or twist
Connecting rod 160 mm
centre to centre
distance ( Big end to
small end)
Connecting rod end Standard Service Limit
play 0.1/0.3 0.5
Crankshaft end play Standard Service Limit

0.10/0.37 0.5
Camshaft end play Standard Service Limit

01/0.3 0.4


Liner projection from 0.02/0.09
crankcase top
surface
X Axis- Along C/s Standard Limit
Y Axis- Perpendicular
to cranks shaft φ ID 94.022/94.04
A- 25 mm
X axis B- -86.6 mm Roundness ≤ 0.05
C- 113 mm
D- 163 mm Cylindricty ≤ 0.05
Roundness/Ovality-
Difference in X & Y
plane at any pt.
Cylindricity/Taper -
Difference in same
plane x/y at any
point
Crankcase top Standard Service
surface distortion Limit
0.07 0.1
Cylinder head Standard Service Limit
bottom face 0.05 0.1
distortion
Height of cylinder Standard Service Limit
head from top to 97.7/98.3 97.4
bottom face
Rocker lever bush I.D 22.0
( in pressed
condition)
Rocker shaft O.D 21.98/21.980
Rocker to shaft Standard Service Limit

clearance 0.02/0.06 0.2
Push rod bent Standard Service Limit

≤ 0.25 0.4


Valve spring Standard Service Limit
Free Length 53.6 50.6
Squareness 0.15 0.2
Installed 381.5N/43 mm 347 N
Load/Installed length
Valve seat angle 44°45′ to 45°
Valve stem O.D

Inlet 6.95/7.10
Exhaust 6.95/7.10
Valve to Valve guide

clearance
Inlet 0.03/0.07
Exhaust 0.05/0.09
Thickness of the Standard Service Limit
valve head
2.0 1.5
Chain Drive Chain Pitch – 3/8” (9.52 mm )

Engine
Duplex bush type
102 Links, Endless &
Riveted.
Crank Sprocket 19 Teeth
Cam & FIP Sprocket 38 Teeth

Difference between Standard Service Limit
Cam height & base
circle diameter
Inlet 6.0796 5.5796

Exhaust 6.9076 6.4076


Camshaft Bush I.Dφ 49.025/49.0
Camshaft Journal 48.98/48.95

O.D
Camshaft bush to Standard Service
cam journal Limit
clearance 0.02/0.075 0.1
Camshaft bend ≤ 0.01
I.D of tappet hole in 24.48

crankcase
Tappet to tappet Standard Service

hole clearance Limit
0.02/0.075 0.15
Crankshaft pin Standard Service

∅ OD Limit
Roundness/Ovality 53.0/52.981
Cylindricity/Taper ≤ 0.01 0.03
≤ 0.012 0.03
Throw 45 mm
Main Bearing oil Standard Service

clearance Limit
0.016/0.074 0.1
Undersize of the c/s Dimensions of the
crank pin ∅ OD crankpin.
0.25mm US
0.50 mm US 52.75/52.731
0.75 mm US 52.50/52.481
52.25/52.231


Crankshaft journal Standard Service
∅ OD Limit
Roundness/ Ovality 59.0/58.981
Cylindricity/ Taper ≤ 0.005 0.03
≤ 0.008 0.02
Undersize of the c/s Dimensions of the journal

journal pin ∅ OD
0.25mm US 58.75/58.371
0.50 mm US 58.50/58.481
0.75 mm US 58.25/58.231
Crankshaft bend Standard Service

Limit
≤ 0.025 0.06
! CAUTION
FILLETS ARE HARDENED.
DO NOT ATTEMPT TO
STRAIGTEN
Crankshaft fillet Standard Service
radius Limits
3.0/3.5
Crankshaft Hardness 50 HRC
Minimum
Connecting rod Standard Service

Bearing oil clearance Limit
0.016/0.040 0.070
The Maximum length
of bolts after which
they have to can not
be used
Cylinder head bolts 136.6/135.4 mm

Main Bearing Bolts 90.6/89.4mm
Connecting rod Replace everytime
Flywheel bolts length 29.58/30.42 mm


Thermostat
Starts opening at 84~88°C
Fully opens at 96°C
Lift mm
Water pump pulley 1.25
ratio
Flywheel 35±0.13
Width from Mounting
face to clutch face
Flywheel Standard Service

Flatness Limit
Runout ≤ 0.05 0.1
≤ 0.05 0.1
Mahindra Maximile Premium Or any other engine oil conforming to API

grade CG4 or above and a viscosity Index of 15W 40.
If any oil conforming to CG4 grade is used then the oil change interval is
7000 Kilometers. Oils of MIL 2104 C or below are not acceptable
RTV silicone sealant- RHODOSEAL. Part number 0024532 to be used:

Between Rear oil seal retainer & Block
Between ladder frame & block
All other places Loctite 547. Part number 0084337 are used.
Hard gaskets are used only at: -

9 Cylinder head Gasket.
9 Turbocharger to Exhaust manifold mounting.
9 Exhaust manifold to cylinder head.
9 Exhaust manifold to EGR pipe
9 EGR pipe to elbow.

Rust cleaning solution (For the Turbocharger mounting nuts):
Brand Name: WD-40

Manufacturer- WD-40 COMPANY

Tightening Torque’s –
Bolt location Torque in Nm ( Lbft)

Cylinder head 90 Nm + 60° + 60° ( 66.4 Lbft +
60°+ 60°)
Connecting rod 45 Nm + 90° ( 33 Lbft +90°)
Main Bearing cap 168 ± 17 Nm ( 123 ± 12.5 Lbft)
Flywheel
90 Nm + 60° ( 66 Lbft+ 60°)
Main Drive Pulley Step 1:- 67 Nm (49.4 Lbft)
Step 2: -167 Nm ( 123 Lbft)
Cranks shaft pulley 90 Nm + 90°+ 90°
(apply oil on bolt before
tightening)
Cam gear mounting bolts 110 ± 10 Nm (81 ± 7.4 Lbft)
FIP gear lock nut 92.5 ± 3 Nm ( 68 ± 2.2 Lbft)
Camshaft thrust mounting 25 ±3 Nm ( 18.4 ± 2.2 Lbft)
plate
Crank gear mounting bolts 105 ± 10 ( 77.4 ± 7.4 Lbft)
Idler shaft mounting bolts 25 ± 3 Nm ( 18.4 ± 2.2 Lbft)
Viscous Fan clutch nut 40-50 Nm ( 29.5 to 37 Lbft)
Water drain plate mounting 25 ± 3 Nm ( 18.4 ± 2.2 Lbft)
bolts in crankcase
Injector holding clamping stud 25 ± 3 Nm ( 18.4 ± 2.2 Lbft)
Front cover on crankcase 25 ± 3 Nm ( 18.4 ± 2.2 Lbft)
Oil jet Assembly bolt
M14 35± 3 Nm ( 26±2 Lbft)
M6 11± 1 Nm ( 8± 0.73 Lbft)
FIP Lock screw 12.5 ± 2.5 Nm
All M5 nuts/ Bolts on FIP 2~3 Nm
High Pressure Pipe Nut 25 ± 3 Nm ( 18.4 ± 2.2 Lbft)
Injector holding clamping 25 ± 3 Nm ( 18.4 ± 2.2 Lbft)
stud.
Injector Overflow pipe Banjo 5-7 Nm
nut
LDA hose on FIP 10-15 Nm
LDA hose banjo on manifold 10-15 Nm
Fast idle screw on FIP 10-15 Nm
FIP Inlet & Outlet Banjo 15~20 Nm
List of the MST
MST Number Description

MST - 542 Special Spanner for Nut -
Engine Mounting
MST - 543 Extractor Flywheel Bearing
MST – 544 Drift Flywheel Bearing
MST – 545 Wrench Oil Filter Remover

Air Intake System
Contents
CRDe
Non-CRDe


Air Intake System
Contents
Description
Trouble Shooting
Care of the System
In Car Repairs
Working Principle, Inspection & Fitment procedures of the

Turbocharger
Specifications
Tightening Torques

Description
The air is sucked through a foam air cleaner. The air enters the air
cleaner housing at the bottom and leaves at the top.
The air cleaner is made up of 5 different layers of foam. Each layer is

having different cleaning efficiency.
After filtration the air goes to the turbocharger.
A HFM sensor is attached to the outlet of the air cleaner. The air to the
turbocharger has to go through the HFM. The HFM measures the air
mass going to the engine. The quantity of the air going is used to
compute the fuelling.
After the HFM and before turbocharger there is mechanical or electrical

service indicator. In case of electrical service indicator, signal of
choked air cleaner goes to the instrument cluster. In case of
mechanical one, red band appears in choked condition.


The waste gated turbocharger controls the boost to 1.6. The

compressed air is cooled by the charge intercooler, which is mounted
just below the radiator. A boost pressure sensor is mounted after the
intercooler to measure the boost. The cooled air then enters the inlet
manifolds. It enters the Cast iron cylinder head through the inlet valves
having a 45-degree angle.

Engine does not Air intake 9 Check whether service
start & emits black obstructed indicator light glows or
smoke red band appears and
replace element if light
is on /red band appears.
9 . Refer to the care of
the system also
of Turbocharger
Engine does not give 1. Air intake 9 Replace element
full power. restricted.
2. Air leaks in 9 Plug the leaks, replace
system after hose or clip if required.
turbocharger
4. Boost pressure 9 Correct the control valve
control valve & find the cause
stuck in open
condition.
pipe/hose & rectify.
assembly
damaged
6. Turbocharger 9 Get the Turbocharger
damaged. repaired at authorized
TEL dealer.


restricted. element.
Turbocharger & inlet
manifold
Remove restriction or
replace parts.
Excessive oil 1. Clogged air filter 9 Replace element.
consumption element.
compressor duct.
3. Air leak between 9 Locate the leaks, change
the Turbocharger hose or clamp if
to intake required.
manifold.
4. Restrictions in 9 Remove the restriction in
turbocharger the drainpipe.
drain line.
5. Restriction in 9 Check the crankcase
crankcase ventilation & rectify.
breather.
6. Thick oil/sludge 9 Change oil, filter, service
or coke in the the Turbocharger & use
turbocharger’s recommended oils &
central housing drain intervals. Follow
the recommended
down.
7. Turbocharger 9 Repair Turbocharger.
damaged.
Whining noise 1. Indication of 9 Tighten the clamps at

clearly audible after air leak esp. in the intercooler inlet and
2000 RPM between: outlet.
Turbocharger 9 Tighten the clamps at
to inlet the Turbocharger inlet &
manifold. outlet.
9 Check the hoses for leak
9 Check & replace the pipe
to and from intercooler.


The air cleaner element should be replaced every 40,000 km or If

service indicator light glows under normal driving conditions.
Under extremely dusty conditions replace earlier than above.
It should be noted that if the engine is run with clogged air cleaner,
then it will lead to seepage of oil from turbocharger into the air intake
system.
Ensure that the recommended engine oil only is used and the specified
drain intervals are maintained.
To achieve an optimum cooling of the compressed air it is vital that the

vehicle’s number plate position is not changed and/ or an oversize
number plate does not block the aperture for the air draft for the
intercooler.
The Turbocharger & boost control valve does not require any special
maintenance. However check the boost pressure pipe for proper
fitment (connection from compressor to boost valve). Damage, cracks,
chips at ends, etc.
Check the operation of the waste gate valve by blowing compressed air
with 2.0 bar in the valve hose. The valve should open, pressing the
turbocharger stem and opening the exhaust valve (flap valve)
Check the oil separator system, in particular for any leak in vacuum
leak. As any vacuum leak will lead to a high-pressure build up and then
it will go through the intake system and give a signal of high blow by or
be confused with compressor oil leak.
Do not attempt to disturb length of the waste gate controlling
actuator rod.


If the Turbocharger is removed, please do not lift the turbocharger

using the actuator rod as a lifting handle.
In Car Repairs –
Air cleaner Removal
Turbocharger removal & Refitment
Air cleaner Servicing --
Replacing the filter element –
1. Open the clean Hose clip & separate the hose.
2. Open the Air Cleaner Top Cover Bolts.


3. Remove the Air Filter Element along with grates & clean the bottom
bowl.
4. Separate the Top as well as bottom Grates & replace the Air Filter
Element; assemble the grates & put the assembly back in place.
Position the new element properly, taking care of lug projections.
5. Assemble the top cover & tighten the top cover bolts in diagonally
opposite order.
6. Assemble the Clean Hose on the Air Cleaner Outlet-Air Mass Sensor
Neck & tighten the Hose Clip.
The cleaning of the element is not recommended under any

circumstances.
Do not wring the foam.
Do not use if foam is cut, torn or foam layers are separated.
Turbocharger removal & Re-fitment –
Remove the air cleaner assembly

it on a two post or in a pit.)



turbocharger.

return pipe.
It is suggested that all the opening in

the Turbine housing, compressor
housing and the center housing be
! covered with plugs or masking tape.
This is recommended as even a small

particle/ washer if trapped between
the blades & housing can destroy the
turbocharger.
cleaning spray in the nuts before
attempting to remove otherwise the
stud will come off.)
nuts.


Please do not lift the turbocharger

using the actuator rod as a lifting
! handle.
While fitting back the Turbocharger, it

is essential to purge the oil supply
! line of any air.
Working Principle, Inspection & Fitment procedures of the

Turbocharger –
The Turbocharger is basically an axial inflow air compressor, which is

driven by an exhaust gas driven turbine.
The exhausts gases coming out of exhaust manifold impinge on the

turbine blade give the drive to turbine shaft. At the other end of the
turbine shaft the compressor is assembled. The whole assembly is
supported on a floating bush. The bush gets an oil supply directly from
the engine and has oil film between the shaft and bearing as well as
the bush and the central housing.
The exhaust gases from the Turbine impinge on the turbine blade &
rotate the shaft. The compressor blades at the other end suck the air
from the air filter. After compression the temperature of the
compressed air increases thus reducing the air density. Hence if the air
is cooled and then the air density increases thus helping in getting
more power as well as improve emissions. The compressed air is sent to
the intercooler, which is mounted just below the radiator. Hence the
incoming ram air also cools the compressed air and gives it to the
intake manifold.


The turbocharger is matched to give an optimum boost for the desired

engine speed band. A waste gate controls the boost. The waste gate is
used to bypass the excess exhaust gas away from the turbine and thus
maintain the boost as well as control the backpressure. A spring-loaded
diaphragm controls the waste gate.
A flap valve is installed in the turbine housing just before the turbine
blade. Opening the valve allows the excess gases to bypass the turbine.
The flap movement is controlled by a push rod, which is controlled by a
spring-loaded diaphragm. At the other end of the diaphragm the
compressed air is sensed through a hose which is connected at a
tapping in the compressor housing.
The length of the pushrod, functioning of the diaphragm and the hose
connection are essential for the precise operation of the push rod. Any
air leak from the hose connecting the compressor housing to the waste
gate-controlling diaphragm will also affect the performance of the
turbocharger/ engine.
Inspection
9 Inspect the suction side (i.e. up to the air cleaner) for oil traces.
In a close crank case ventilation system it is normal to have oil in
this area. These oil particles are carried from blow bye of the
engine, which gets condensed from gas to oil. Look for any undue
gumming of oil, hard carbon particles in this area. If such an
observation is present then all the causes for excess blow symptoms
have to be checked and eliminated.
9 Inspect the compressor and turbine blades for any damage caused by
foreign object. The inspection can be done through the compressor
housing inlet and turbine housings outlet.
9 Inspect the blades outer edge and observe if any rubbing marks are
noticed on the housing.
9 Rotate the shaft wheel assembly by hand and check for freeness,
and any binding.
9 Push the shaft to side and rotate to check for wheel rub. It should
turn smoothly.


9 Lift both end of shaft up and down at the same time and feel for
excessive journal bearing clearance. If clearance is normal then very
little shaft movement will be detected.
If all the above checks are satisfactory then the turbocharger can
be reused.
♦ If the turbocharger parts are damaged, wheel rubbing marks

present, shaft not rotating freely or binding or excessive journal
clearance then the Turbocharger should be serviced.
9 Do not attempt to service or overhaul the Turbocharger. It should be

done only at the authorized Turbo Energy Ltd service center. Any
attempts to attend without the use of special tools or procedure can
damage to turbocharger or personnel!
Turbocharger Installation –
Do not mishandle, tumbled, dropped or keep any

ports open.
! Do not use the actuator control rod for lifting or
carrying.
Do not disturb the setting of the actuator.
Check
The inlet connection & outlet exhaust connection to turbocharger for
foreign material, cracks, blockages, sand particles, loose nuts etc. This
check should be done more thoroughly if any damage has been noticed
in compressor or turbine blades as under normal operating conditions
the blades can damaged only if a foreign object hits them.
Check all the hoses and pipes from turbocharger outlet to intercooler
and intercooler to inlet manifold for crack, aging, leaks. Check the
hose clips for proper functioning. If in doubt – replace.


The oil supply pipe should be checked carbon deposits, crack,

distortions etc. Clean the supply pipe before fitting.
Do not attempt to change the orientation of turbocharger and ensure

the correct gaskets are used.
Do not reuse any of metallic gaskets even if they appear to be good. It

will lead to leakage & drop in the performance of the engine.
Installation –
Once a new turbocharger is being installed.
i. Fill fresh clean oil from the oil supplies port and after that give the
shaft few rotations.
ii. Fit the supply pipe.
iii. Crank the engine till a steady stream of oil comes out through the
drainpipe. (CAUTION: Do not crank the engine for too long.
Excessive cranking will result in emptying of the pump cavity
causing the plunger to run dry.)
This will ensure that the oil supply line to Turbocharger is purged of
any air pocket.
After this fit the return line from turbocharger to sump, taking care to
avoid any kinks.
With engine running condition, check the air, exhaust and oil
connections for leaks.
Specifications –
Description Value
Turbocharger Model K 04
Turbocharger specifications K0 4-2075 ECD5.82
Turbocharger supplier Turbo Energy Ltd.
Air velocity between the Air filter 35 M/sec


compressor inlet
Air velocity between the compressor 50 M/Sec (Max)
outlet and the inlet manifold
Maximum static back pressure at 60mbar
downstream of turbine
Oil pressure at upstream of 2.5 bar
turbocharger
Tightening Torques –

Turbocharger Mounting stud/ nut 25 ± 3 Nm( 18.4 ± 2 lbf-ft)
Inlet manifold 25 ± 3 (18.4 ± 2 lbf-ft )
Air cleaner top cover bolts 4.5 Nm (3 lbf-ft)


Air Intake System
Contents
Description
Trouble Shooting
Care of the System
In Car Repairs
Working Principle, Inspection & Fitment procedures of the Turbocharger
Specification

Description
The air is sucked through a foam air cleaner. The air enters the air cleaner
housing at the bottom and leaves at the top.
The air cleaner is made up of 5 different layers of foam. Each layer is having
different cleaning efficiency.
After filtration the air goes to the turbocharger.
Before turbocharger there is mechanical or electrical service indicator. In

case of electrical service indicator, signal of choked air cleaner goes to the
instrument cluster. In case of mechanical one, red band appears in choked
condition.
The waste gated turbocharger controls the boost to 1.8. The compressed air
is cooled by the charge intercooler, which is mounted just below the
radiator. The cooled air enters the inlet manifolds. It enters the Cast iron
cylinder head through the inlet valves having a 45-degree angle.


Engine will not start Air intake 9 Check whether service
& emit black smoke obstructed indicator light glows or
red band appears and
replace element if light
is on /red band appears.
9 . Refer to the care of
the system also
of Turbocharger
Engine does not give 1. Air intake 9 Replace element.
full power. restricted. 9 Plug the leaks, replace
2. Air leaks in hose or clip if required.
system after 9 Replace the hose or
turbocharger tighten
3. Air leak in pipe – 9 Correct the control valve
manifold to FIP & find the cause
control valve & rectify.
stuck in pen 9 Get the Turbocharger
condition. repaired at authorized
5. Boost pressure TEL dealer.
pipe/hose
assembly
damaged
6. Turbocharger
damaged.

restricted. element.
Turbocharger & inlet
manifold
9 Remove restriction or
replace parts.


Excessive oil 1. Clogged air filter 9 Replace element.
consumption element. 9 Locate & remove
2. Restriction in air restriction.
intake to 9 Locate the leaks, change
compressor duct. hose or clamp if
3. Air leak between required.
the Turbocharger 9 Remove the restriction in
to intake the drainpipe.
manifold. 9 Check the crankcase
4. Restrictions in ventilation & rectify.
turbocharger 9 Change oil, filter, service
drain line. the Turbocharger & use
5. Restriction in recommended oils &
crankcase drain intervals. Follow
breather. the recommended
6. Thick oil/sludge procedure while shutting
or coke in the down.
turbocharger’s 9 Repair Turbocharger.
central housing
7. Turbocharger
damaged.
Whining noise 1. Indication of 9 Tighten the clamps at
clearly audible after air leak esp. in the intercooler inlet and
2000 RPM between: outlet.
Turbocharger 9 Tighten the clamps at
to inlet the Turbocharger inlet &
manifold. outlet.
9 Check the hoses for leak
9 Check & replace the pipe
to and from intercooler.

The air cleaner element should be replaced every 40,000 km or If service

indicator light glows under normal driving conditions.
Under extremely dusty conditions replace earlier than above.
It should be noted that if the engine is run with clogged air cleaner, then it
will lead to seepage of oil from turbocharger into the air intake system.
Ensure that the recommended engine oil only is used and the specified drain
intervals are maintained.
To achieve an optimum cooling of the compressed air it is vital that the

vehicle’s number plate position is not changed and/ or an oversize number
plate does not block the aperture for the air draft for the intercooler.
The Turbocharger & boost control valve does not require any special
maintenance. However check the boost pressure pipe for proper fitment
(connection from compressor to boost valve). Damage, cracks, chips at ends,
etc.
Check the operation of the waste gate valve by blowing compressed air with
2.0 bar in the valve hose. The valve should open, pressing the turbocharger
stem and opening the exhaust valve (flap valve)
Check the oil separator system, in particular for any leak in vacuum leak. As
any vacuum leak will lead to a high-pressure build up and then it will go
through the intake system and give a signal of high blow by or be confused
with compressor oil leak.
Do not attempt to disturb length of the waste gate controlling actuator
rod.
If the Turbocharger is removed, please do not lift the turbocharger using

the actuator rod as a lifting handle.

In Car Repairs –
Air cleaner Removal
Cleaning the element.
Turbocharger removal & Refitment.
Air cleaner Servicing –
To replace the filter element –
1) Remove filter housing completely from engine compartment. Remove

Mass Flow Sensor
2) Ensure that filter housing is completely clean by blowing compressed air
(<30psi) inside filter housing

3) Ensure that the bottom grate is in position and not loose or shaking
before putting the element.
4) Install foam filter pack into housing taking care to ensure that all layers
sit correctly and no layers are folded over and foam fingers projecting out
5) Ensure that all edges of the foam filter pack are sitting properly
6) Ensure that Top Grate is in position and seated properly
7) Assemble top cover and tighten all screws.
The cleaning of the element is not recommended under any

circumstance.
Do not wring the foam.
Do not use if foam is cut, torn or foam layers are separated."
Remove the air cleaner assembly

it on a two post or in a pit.)


turbocharger.

return pipe.
It is suggested that the all the

opening in the Turbine housing,
! compressor housing and the center
housing be covered with plugs or
masking tape.
This is recommended as even a small

particle/ washer if trapped between
the blades & housing can destroy the
turbocharger.
cleaning spray in the nuts before
attempting to remove otherwise the
stud will come off.)
nuts.

Please do not lift the turbocharger

using the actuator rod as a lifting
! handle.
While fitting back the Turbocharger, it

is essential to purge the oil supply
! line of any air.
Working Principle, Inspection & Fitment procedures of the Turbocharger
The Turbocharger is basically an axial inflow air compressor, which is driven

by an exhaust gas driven turbine.
The exhausts gases coming out of exhaust manifold impinge on the turbine
blade give the drive to turbine shaft. At the other end of the turbine shaft
the compressor is assembled. The whole assembly is supported on a floating
bush. The bush gets an oil supply directly from the engine and has oil film
between the shaft and bearing as well as the bush and the central housing.
The exhaust gases from the Turbine impinge on the turbine blade & rotate
the shaft. The compressor blades at the other end suck the air from the air
filter. After compression the temperature of the compressed air increases
thus reducing the air density. Hence if the air is cooled and then the air
density increases thus helping in getting more power as well as improve
emissions. The compressed air is sent to the intercooler, which is mounted
just below the radiator. Hence the incoming ram air also cools the
compressed air and gives it to the intake manifold.
The turbocharger is matched to give an optimum boost for the desired

engine speed band. A waste gate controls the boost. The waste gate is used
to bypass the excess exhaust gas away from the turbine and thus maintain
the boost as well as control the backpressure. A spring-loaded diaphragm
controls the waste gate.
A flap valve is installed in the turbine housing just before the turbine blade.
Opening the valve allows the excess gases to bypass the turbine. The flap
movement is controlled by a push rod, which is controlled by a spring-loaded
diaphragm. At the other end of the diaphragm the compressed air is sensed
through a hose which is connected at a tapping in the compressor housing.
The length of the pushrod, functioning of the diaphragm and the hose
connection are essential for the precise operation of the push rod. Any air
leak from the hose connecting the compressor housing to the waste gate-
controlling diaphragm will also affect the performance of the turbocharger/
engine.
1Inspection
9 Inspect the suction side (i.e. up to the air cleaner) for oil traces.
In a close crank case ventilation system it is normal to have oil in this
area. These oil particles are carried from blow bye of the engine, which
gets condensed from gas to oil. Look for any undue gumming of oil, hard
carbon particles in this area. If such an observation is present then all the
causes for excess blow symptoms have to be checked and eliminated.
9 Inspect the compressor and turbine blades for any damage caused by
foreign object. The inspection can be done through the compressor
housing inlet and turbine housings outlet.
9 Inspect the blades outer edge and observe if any rubbing marks are
noticed on the housing.
9 Rotate the shaft wheel assembly by hand and check for freeness, and any
binding.
9 Push the shaft to side and rotate to check for wheel rub. It should turn
smoothly.

9 Lift both end of shaft up and down at the same time and feel for
excessive journal bearing clearance. If clearance is normal then very
little shaft movement will be detected.
If all the above checks are satisfactory then the turbocharger can be
reused.
♦ If the turbocharger parts are damaged, wheel rubbing marks present,

shaft not rotating freely or binding or excessive journal clearance
then the Turbocharger should be serviced.
9 Do not attempt to service or overhaul the Turbocharger. It should be

done only at the authorized Turbo Energy Ltd service center. Any
attempts to attend without the use of special tools or procedure can
damage to turbocharger or personnel!
Turbocharger Installation
Do not mishandle, tumbled, dropped or keep any ports

open.
! Do not use the actuator control rod for lifting or
carrying.
Do not disturb the setting of the actuator.
1 Check
The inlet connection & outlet exhaust connection to turbocharger for
foreign material, cracks, blockages, sand particles, loose nuts etc. This
check should be done more thoroughly if any damage has been noticed in
compressor or turbine blades. As under normal operating conditions the
blades can damaged only if a foreign object hits them.
Check all the hoses and pipes from turbocharger outlet to inercooler and
intercooler to inlet manifold for crack, aging, leaks. Check the hose clips for
proper functioning. If in doubt – replace.
The oil supply pipe should be checked carbon deposits, crack, distortions
etc. Clean the supply pipe before fitting.

Do not attempt to change the orientation of turbocharger and ensure the

correct gaskets are used.
Do not re use any of metallic gaskets even if they appear to be good. It will
lead to leakage & drop in the performance of the engine.
Installation –
Once a new turbocharger is being installed.
i. Fill fresh clean oil from the oil supplies port and after that gives the
shaft few rotations.
ii. Fit the supply pipe.
iii. Without fitting the drain oil pipe, disconnect the FIP solenoid.
iv. Crank the engine till a steady stream of oil comes out through the
drainpipe. (CAUTION: Do not crank the engine for too long. Excessive
cranking will result in emptying of the pump cavity causing the plunger
to run dry.)
This will ensure that the oil supply line to Turbocharger is purged of any
air pocket.
After this fit the return line from turbocharger to sump, taking care to avoid
any kinks.
With engine running condition, check the air, exhaust and oil connections
for leaks.
Specifications –
Turbocharger Model K 03
Turbocharger specifications K0 3-2070 ECD5.82
Turbocharger supplier Turbo Energy Ltd.
Oil pressure at upstream of 2.5 bar @ idle
turbocharger


Turbocharger Mounting stud/ 25±3 ( 18.4±2 )
nut
Inlet manifold 25±3 ( 18.4±2 )
LDA hose on FIP 10 to 15 (7.37 to 11)
LDA hose banjo on FIP 10 to 15 (7.37 to 11)

Cooling System
Contents
CRDe
Non-CRDe


Cooling System
Contents
Description
Trouble Shooting
Care of the system
In Car repairs
Dismantling & Assembly of the Cooling System.
Fan Belt-Routing & Analysis
Specifications & Coolant
Tightening Torques


Description
The cooling system is designed to cater to the following functions:
• Remove & dissipate excess heat from the combustion process.

• To maintain the optimum temperature for complete and uniform
combustion.
• To provide heating for the heater system.( In the models where the
Heater is provided)
The cooling system includes the following components/ sub system:
9 Radiator
9 Radiator Pressure cap
9 Coolant
9 Cooling fan ( Mechanical or Electrical)
9 Fan drive
9 Fan shroud, Thermostat
9 Water pump
9 Thermostat housing, cover thermostat, Recovery tank
9 Hoses & their clamps.
The layout of the cooling system is shown in the sketch below –


Broadly speaking the water flows from the water pump to the Front
cover from the cover it goes to cylinder block and from the block to the
cylinder head and then to the bottom of thermostat. In case the
thermostat is closed, water goes through the bypass tube to water
pump. Once the thermostat opens the water goes to the radiator and
after getting cooled the water is again fed to the water pump. One pipe
goes from the thermostat housing to the heater core of HVAC unit and
then returns back.
Water pump & cover –
The coolant from the outlet elbow of the cross flow type radiator enters
the inlet of the water pump. The centrifugal water pump delivers the
water to the front cover from there to the cylinder block.
Hose connecting
thermostat housing &
water pump
Cylinder block & cylinder head –

In the block the water enters a main cooling passage which runs along
the length of the block in one side (inlet manifold side). The top passage
ensures that the maximum cooling is provided to the hottest zone of the
cylinder liners i.e. the top portion.


At the same time a passage at the front end connect the inlet to another
gallery at the bottom of the liner. In between the top and lower passage
in the block the coolant flows between the block & liners due to the
thermos siphon effect. The water then goes to the cylinder head and
from there to bottom of the thermostat. One external pipe from the
back end of the block goes to the oil cooler. The return pipe form the oil
cooler is connected to the inlet of the water pump.
Radiator & No loss tank –
The radiator cap controls the system pressure to 0.9 bar. Once the
pressure exceeds 0.9 bar the cap lifts off the seat and the coolant is
allowed to escape into a no loss tank.
As the engine cools down the system pressure falls and vacuum is
formed .The vacuum valve in the radiator cap opens and allows the
water from the no loss tank to go back into the radiator. Thus the
system does not have any coolant loss during normal operation.
Water for HVAC –

The hot water at the thermostat housing is diverted to the heater unit,
which is located in the passenger compartment for the HVAC function.
The return from the heater is connected to the inlet of the water pump.
It should be noted that a water valve near the heater/climate box
controls the amount of the water, which enters the heater unit. The
occupants determine the amount of the opening of the water valve. It
will be full quantity when it is set is maximum heater mode and vary till
the coldest mode where it will become nil as the valve will be fully
closed


Before going into the specifics of the cooling system it is worthwhile to
find out under which driving conditions the complaints is present.
Some of the causes are:
Prolonged /excess idling

Very high ambient temperature
Slow traffic
Traffic jams
High speed
Steep Gradients
To avoid overheating under such conditions it will be worthwhile to:

Idle with the AC off. In case the temperature indicator needle is close to
the red band.
Increase the engine idling speed.

Noise Fan shroud 9 Reposition the shroud
1. Fan contacting and inspect the engine
the shroud insulators.
Water pump
1. Loose water 9 Replace the water pump.
pump impeller. 9 Replace water pump.
2. Water pump 9 Tighten mounting bolt
bearing worn/
failure.
3. Loose mounting
of pump
Belts
1. Belt loose 9 Tighten belt
2. Glazed/stretched 9 Replace serpentine belt,
fan belt. 9 Replace pulley.
3. Rough surface on
drive pulley. 9 Check the belt alignment
4. Belt alignment & rectify.


Alternator/Water
pump
1. Alternator 9 Replace alternator

bearing failure bearing
Belt tension
mechanism
1. Idler pulley
bearing failure 9 Replace idler bearing.
2. Idler mounting 9 Replace the idler
bracket failure. bracket.
3. Tension bolt 9 Replace the tension bolt.
failure.
Coolant loss- boil Coolant

over 1. Overfilled 9 Reduce the coolant
recovery tank. level.
2. Insufficient 9 Add the additive.
coolant additive
causing lower
boiling points.
3. Additive 9 Replace the coolant
deteriorated due
to aging/
contamination. 9 Add coolant
4. Low coolant
level.
Hot shut down 9 Allow the engine to run
1. Quick shut downs at idle for some time
after a long and before stopping.
hot run.
Leakages
1. Leaks due to 9 Find the area of leaks ,
loose hose replace hose or if
clamps. Loose necessary the clamp also
nuts, bolts drain 9 Pressure test the system
plugs, faulty hose to check for leaks and


or leaking then repair as necessary.

radiators.
Blockages
1. Casting flash in 9 The flash may be visible
the block. by removing the cooling
2. Casting flash in system components or
the cylinder the core plugs. Repair or
head. replace.
3. Blocked radiator 9 Flush radiator.
causing under
filling of the
cooling system. 9 Purge the system.
4. Air trapped in
system. 9 Purge the system.
5. Air in the system
causing
occasional 9 Replace the cap/ pipe.
burping.
6. Faulty expansion
bottle cap or
pipe.
Coolant loss- boil Gas mixing
over 1. Cylinder head 9 Replace the cylinder
gasket failure. head gasket
Pressurization 9 Replace the cap.

1. Defective
radiator cap.
Timing
1. Improper engine 9 Check the engine timing,
timing FIP timing, injector
pressure and also the
tappet clearance.
Belt
1. Slipping belts 9 Adjust belt tension.
2. Belt failure 9 Replace belt
Water pump
1. Water pump shaft 9 Replace water pump


broken or
damaged
impeller. 9 Replace Thermostat.
Thermostat
1. Faulty 9 Replace hoses.
Thermostat.
Hoses. 9 Check the functioning of

1. Radiator hoses the VFD replace if
collapsed required.
Fan
1. Cooling fan not 9 Clean the radiator fins.
engaging. 9 Remove the obstruction.
9 Check the brake system.
Air flow
1. Air flow reduced
to choked fins
2. Airflow reduced
due to
obstruction.
Vehicle
Brakes dragging.
High Temperature Improper indication
Indication 1. Faulty sensor 9 Replace the sensor.
2. Faulty gauge 9 Replace the gauge
Coolant entry into 1. Low cylinder 9 Replace the cylinder

Crankcase or head torque. head gasket, torque as
cylinder per procedure.
9 Replace the cylinder
2. Faulty head head gasket
gasket. 9 Replace the affected
part.
3. Blow hole in
crankcase, head ,
liner
Low Temperature 1. Thermostat stuck 9 Replace thermostat.
Gauge Indication- open


Under cooling 2. Faulty sensor. 9 Replace sensor.

3. Faulty gauge. 9 Replace gauge.
Coolant reserve 1. Coolant level low 9 Replenish coolant to
system inoperative FULL level.
2. Leak in system 9 Pressure test to isolate &
repair.
3. Overflow tube 9 Remove clogging
clogged or
leaking. 9 Clean vent.
4. Recovery bottle
vent blocked. 9 Change the cap.
5. Radiator cap
defective.
No coolant flow 1. Restricted return 9 Remove restriction.
trough Heater inlet in water
Core pump. 9 Remove restriction or
2. Heater hoses replace hose.
collapsed or
restricted. 9 Remove flash or
3. Restricted heater restriction.
core. 9 Remove restriction.
4. Restricted outlet
in the thermostat
housing. 9 Repair controls.
5. Heater valve
controls not
functioning. 9 Repair or replace
6. Heater valve
stuck.
Unless there is loss of coolant the coolant additive added is adequate for
80,000 of the vehicle.
The recommended coolant additive is given in the Recommended

Coolant section.


In Car repairs –
Fan belt tension adjustment
Fan belt replacement
Fan Blade & the viscous fan drive removal & fitment
Water pump removal
Radiator removal
Accessory Belt tension Adjustment –
1. Check the Belt Tension…

- Turn on the Belt Tension Gauge, select reading mode in Hertz (Hz)
& hold the probe approximately 5mm distance in Front of the belt
( CAUTION: Do not touch the probe to the belt, this can damage
the probe!) as shown in the illustration above by X.
- Tap on the belt near the probe.
- Note the reading. If the reading is within 125 TO 145, this should
be OK.
- If the reading is less than 125 Hz then it needs adjustment.
2. Adjust the belt tension ….

2.A - Loosen the Tensioner Pulley Shaft Nut.
2.B – Tighten the Belt Tensioning Bolt.
2.C - Tighten the Tensioner Pulley Shaft Nut


3. Repeat the procedure as per the Step-1

- If the belt tension value should be 140+5 Hz.
If the value is less than 140+5 Hz, Repeat the Steps 2 & 3.
1. Loosen the Tensioner bolt to relieve the tension.
2. Loosen the Tensioner Pulley Nut. Take out the pulley assembly
with Dust Shield, washer & take the belt out.
3. Take the belt out.
4. Put the new belt in place & fit the Tensioner Pulley Assembly
along with dust shield & washer on the bracket, hand tighten the
nut.
Tighten the Tensioner Pulley Nut with torque of 32.5 ± 2.5 Nm.
5. Tighten the Tensioner Bolt so as to get the specified belt tension;

follow the accessory belt tension check procedure for checking /
adjusting the belt tension to the installation tension --170 ± 2 Hz.


6. Run the engine for 5 minutes & confirm the stabilized tension is at
140 to 145 Hz.
Fan Blade & viscous fan drive assembly removal –
Caution: Do not remove the fan belt

before removing the nut.

has to be clockwise when viewed
from front
Water Pump removal –
Do not remove the cylinder block

drain plate or the radiator drain cock
with the system hot and pressurized.
Serious burns from the splashing of
hot coolant can occur.
Before draining the system. The

system pressure has to be relieved.
Holding the radiator cap with a rag
slowly open the radiator cap.
The water may splash upward causing
injury
Remove the fan blade
Remove the fan belt


Remove the thermostat housing along

with the thermostat after removing
the mounting bolts.
Remove the inlet and outlet hoses.
Remove the HVAC return line from

the water pump inlet.
Remove the hose connecting the oil

cooler to the water pump.
Remove the water pump assembly

after removing the mounting bolts.
While assembly, ensure that the “O”

ring is seated securely and does not
fall down.


Radiator Removal & Re-fitment –

Serious burns from the splashing
coolant can occur.
injury
Remove the radiator inlet and outlet

hose
Remove the inlet and outlet hose for

the intercooler.


Remove the condenser mounting

bolts.
Remove the radiator mounting bolts

and remove the radiator along with
the pipe connecting it to the no loss
tank.
Dismantling & Assembly of the Cooling System
Water Pump
Viscous Fan Drive
CAUTION
Do not remove the radiator drain cock or the Engine coolant plate
drain with the engine in hot condition.
Always remove the pressure on the system by removing the radiator

cap before undertaking any work on the cooling system.
If the coolant is not contaminated then collect the coolant in a clean

container so that it can be reused. Replace coolant as per
recommendation


Water pump –
A centrifugal water pump is used to circulate the coolant through the

water jackets, cylinder head, hoses and radiator. The water pump is
belt driven by the engine main drive pulley. It ratio of pulley diameter
ensures that the water pump rotates 1.30 times the engine speed.
The water pump impeller is pressed onto the shaft. The shaft is
supported on two bearings that are integral to the shaft.
The water pump seal is located between the impeller and the housing.
The housing has a small hole to allow the seepage to escape. That also
acts as an indication point if the water pump seal fails.
Water pump removal & Refitment.

The water pump is not serviceable and has to be changed as an
assembly.
Viscous Fan Drive Operation –
The viscous drive unit for the engine-cooling fan provides a means for
controlling the speed of the fan relative to the temperature of the
engine. The viscous fan unit is a type of fluid coupling, which drives the
fan blade by means of silicone fluid


There are two main components of the viscous fan drive: input (drive
member), which consist of a threaded shaft passing through a bearing
into the clutch plate and secured to the water pump. The output
(driven) member comprises of the main body to which the fan is
attached, with the temperature sensing mechanism (bimetal coil) and
pump plates.
The fan drive has to be engaged only periodically, between 5 to 10% of

the normal operating conditions because the rest of the time the vehicle
cools itself by ram air-cooling.
To engage and disengage the fan drive the bi metal coil senses the air
temperature behind the radiator. When a pre determined temperature
is reached, the coil opens a valve, which allows the fluid to enter the

drive area and due to centrifugal forces circulate to the annular drive
area
There are two sets of annular grooves. , One in the drive clutch and the
other in the drive body, a specific clearance being provided between
two sets of grooves. When this clearance is filled with viscous fluid a
shearing action caused by the speed differential between the two drive
components, transmit the torque to the fan. The fluid is thrown to the
outside of the unit by the centrifugal force from where it is recirculated
to the reservoir via the pump plate adjacent to the drive member.


If the engine sped is increased the amount of slip will also increase to
limit the maximum fan speed.
When the air temperature from the radiator drops sufficiently, the bi
metal coil closes the valve and prevents fluid entering the drive area.
The fluid that is in the drive area will gradually pump out into the
reservoir and the fan will return to an idle condition
Checking the VFD –
This procedure will only give an indication that the fan is cutting in and
out, but will not be able to check the accuracy of the cut in
temperature.
Depending on the level of the test equipment there are several ways to
check the if the fan is working correctly.
Using a non-contact tachometer –
1. Run the engine at idle without any load for approximately 3 minutes,
for example at 2000 rpm, observer the fan drive speed. In the
disengaged mode the fan speed will be approximately 800 rpm. By
running for 3 minutes it will ensure that the fan drive has pumped out
the silicone fluid into the reservoir and that the fan drive will be in
the cut out ( idle)
2. Either
(a) Blank the radiator by using a sheet of cardboard, which has a 15-
cm hole, cut out of in line with the center of the fan drive. This
will allow a flow of air on the bimetal coil and the cardboard will
allow the radiator to heat up quickly.
Keep a check on the vehicle temperature gauge and let the water
temperature rise to about 105°C. this will ensure that the fan drive
will engage
(b) Using a commercial hot air blower, which will provide a hot air
flow of at least 75°C, direct the air on to the centers of the fan drive
through the radiator. Keep the hot air on for several minutes. This
will cut the fan drive in, and the fan speed will increase. It is
important that only a powerful blower is used so that the hot air


should reach the fan drive after going the radiator at the correct
temperature.
3. Once the fan drive has become engaged by either method (a) or (b).
Check the fan speed with the non-contact tachometer. At 2000 rpm
input speed the fan speed should be 1800 rpm.
Testing without a non-contact tachometer –
4. Use the same method explained in step 2, but this time listen to the
noise level generated by the fan. With the fan in the idle condition
the noise level should be very low, however when the fan speed
increases in the engaged mode there will be a significant roar from
the fan. This will clearly indicate if the fan drive is working.
If the fan drive fails to engage during these tests, there is something
wrong with the VFD (Viscous Fan Drive). The unit should be replaced.
While returning the failed unit (to Plant for vehicles under warranty)
take care to see that the unit is packed with the sensing coil facing
down and sent in the same way. If this is not observed then the silicone
fluid will flow down to bearing, damaging the bearing and also making it
impossible to do any investigation.
Viscous Fan Drive removal –

before the removing the nut.
Remove the shroud.


Loosen the clutch fan nut.

from front

Note: The VFD assembly should be
kept in 2 positions only.
As far as possible – in vertical plane.

If in horizontal then the bimetallic
strip should be facing down.
If stored in horizontal position

resting on the nut face then the
silicone fluid will flow down to the
bearing assembly and result in
contamination of the bearing’s
lubricant.


Serpentine Poly V Belt –
This engine is having Poly V belt drive.
The fan belt tension has to be measured approximately at the centre

between the A/C Compressor pulley and the alternator pulley.
Tensioner
pulley
Idler pulley
Power Crankshaft
steering pump damper pulley
pulley
The belt must be routed correctly.
The main drive pulley can be assembled in either
! direction; however the front end is identified by holes

drilled for balancing (these are not thorough holes). If
assembled wrongly it will cause misalignment by 5to 6
mm
Belt Diagnosis –
When diagnosing serpentine accessory drive belt,

Small crack that run across the ribbed surface of the belt from rib
to rib are considered normal.


Cracks running along a rib are not normal
The correct belt tension is required to ensure optimum performance of

the belt.
Do not apply any external means to reduce noise. Application of oil will
reduce the belt life.
A detailed drive belt analysis is given below –
Symptom Possible reasons Correction

Rib chunking (One 1. Foreign objects 9 Remove foreign objects
or more ribs has embedded in from pulley grooves.
separated from belt pulley groove Replace belt
body)- Chunking 2. Installation 9 Replace belt.
happens when damage. 9 Clean pulley, replace if
several cracks in 3. Poor surface of required.
one area of rib move grooves in pulley.
parallel to the cord
line.
Piling- happens 1. Lack of tension 9 Adjust tension
when the material is 2. Misalignment of 9 Correct the alignment.
sheared off the pulleys
undercord and 3. Worn out pulleys
builds up in the 4. Excessive tension.
groove.
Rib or belt wear. 1. Pulley or pulley’s 9 Correct the alignment.

mis aligned. 9 Clean pulleys- replace
2. Abrasive if required.
environment 9 Change pulley.
3. Rusted pulley’s 9 Replace belt.
4. Sharp or jagged
pulley groove tips.
5. Poor surface finish.
Tooth shear 1. Low belt tension 9 Correct the tension.

2. Seizure of driven 9 Replace belt.
part. 9 Align pulleys
3. Misalignment.


Tooth Wear 1. Incorrect tension 9 Adjust tension.

2. Worn out pulleys 9 Change pulleys
Longitudinal Belt 1. Belt has mis- 9 Replace belt.
cracking (Cracks tracked from 9 Change pulley.
between two ribs.) pulley groove.
2. Pulley groove tip
has worn out the
rubber to tensile
member.
Belt slips 1. Belts slipping 9 Adjust belt tension.
because of 9 Clean pulleys.
insufficient tension 9 Replace the failed
2. Belt or pulley components.
subjected to 9 Replace belt
substances that
reduce the belt
life ( oil, grease,
ethylene alcohol)
3. Driven
component’s
bearing failure.
4. Belt hardened and
glazed from heat
and excessive
slippage.
Groove jumping ( 1. Belt tensions 9 Adjust belt tension.
belt does not either too high or 9 Replace pulleys.
maintain correct too low. 9 Clean pulleys.
position on pulley) 2. Pulleys not within 9 Correct the alignment
design tolerances. 9 Replace belt.
3. Foreign objects in
groove.
4. Pulley
misalignment,
5. Belt cord line is
broken.
Belt broken 1. Excessive tension. 9 Adjust belt tension

2. Tensile members 9 Correct the alignment
damaged during 9 Replace the failed


installation. component.
3. Severe
misalignment.
4. Bracket pulley or
bearing failure.
Noise 1. Belt slippage 9 Adjust belt.
Objectionable 2. Bearing noise 9 Replace the defective
squeak, squeal 3. Belt mis alignment bearing.
rumble heard or felt 4. Belt to pulley 9 Adjust alignment.
while drive belt is in mismatch. 9 Use the correct belt.
operation 5. Driven component 9 Vary belt tension within
induced vibration specifications.
6. System resonant 9 Replace belt.
frequency induced
vibration.
Tensile failure 1. Tension sheeting 9 Correct rubbing
contacting condition.
stationary object. 9 Replace belt.
2. Excessive heat 9 Correct the tension.
causing woven 9 Replace pulley.
fabric to age.
3. Excessive
installation
tension.
4. Foreign body in
drive.
5. Belt crimped due
to improper
handling.
6. Tension sheathing
splice has
fractured.
Oil contamination 1. Oil leaks. 9 Correct the oil leak
condition.
Cord edge failure ( 2. Excessive tension 9 Adjust tension.

Tensile member 3. Belt contacting 9 Remove the stationary
exposed at edges of stationary object. objects fouling.
belt or separated 4. Pulleys out of 9 Replace pulleys.
from Belt body) tolerance. 9 Replace pulley.


5. Insufficient
adhesion between
tensile member &
rubber matrix.
Rib chunking –
Piling –


Tooth Shear –
Tooth wear –
Tensile failure –
Oil contamination –
Cord Edge failure –


Specifications –
Description Value
Radiator capacity 2.15 liters
Cooling system capacity 9.3 liters
Coolant GLYSANTIN G45-23
Ratio 30%
Coolant to be added after 2.79 liters
draining/flushing
Radiator pressure 0.9 bar
Viscous Fan Drive 75°C of air temperature at
- fan starts at ( For reference only) Sensor
Input speed – 3600 rpm
- fan stops at ( For reference Only) Sensor
Input speed – 1300 rpm
Input speed of Fan pulley 1.30 x Engine speed.
No of fan blades 11
Fan blade size 370 mm
Fan Belt tension New installation –165 ± 2 Hz
Stabilized –134 Hz Min
Fan Belt tension - Gates make New installation –170 ± 5 Hz
Location Torque in Nm
Viscous Fan clutch nut 45 ± 5 Nm (33 ± 4 lbf-ft)


Cooling System
Contents
Description
Trouble Shooting
Care of the system
In Car repairs
Dismantling & Assembly of the Cooling System.
Fan Belt-Routing & Analysis
Specifications & Coolant

Description –
The cooling system is designed to cater to the following functions:

• Remove & dissipate excess heat from the combustion process.
• To maintain the optimum temperature for complete and uniform
combustion.
• To provide heating for the heater system.( In the models where the
Heater is provided)
The cooling system include the following components/ sub system:
Radiator
Radiator Pressure cap
Coolant
Cooling fan ( Mechanical or Electrical)
Fan drive
Fan shroudThermostat
Water pump
Thermostat housing, cover thermostat.
Recovery tank
Hoses & their clamp.
The Layout of the cooling system is shown in sketch below

Broadly speaking the water flows from the water pump to the Front cover
from the cover it goes to cylinder block and from the block to the cylinder
head and then to the bottom of thermostat. In case the thermostat is
closed, water goes through the bypass tube to water pump. Once the
thermostat opens the water goes to the radiator and after getting cooled
the water is again fed to the water pump. One pipe goes from the
thermostat housing to the heater core of HVAC unit and then returns
Water pump & cover –

The coolant from the outlet elbow of the cross flow type radiator enters
the inlet of the water pump. The centrifugal water pump delivers the water
to the front cover from there to the cylinder block.
The Pump housing is aluminum. Water pump & thermostat housing by pass
is connected by out side hose.
Hose connecting
thermostat housing &
water pump
Cylinder block & cylinder head –

In the block the water enters a main cooling passage which runs along the
length of the block in one sides (inlet manifold side). The top passage
ensures that the maximum cooling is provided to the hottest zone of the
cylinder liners i.e. the top portion.
At the same time a passage at the front end connect the inlet to another
gallery at the bottom of the liner. In between the top and lower passage in
the block the coolant flows between the block & liners due to the thermos
siphon effect. The water then goes to the cylinder head and from there to
bottom of the thermostat. One external pipe from the back end of the
block goes to the oil cooler. The return pipe form the oil cooler is
connected to the inlet of the water pump.
Radiator & No loss tank –
The radiator cap controls the system pressure to 0.9 bar. Once the pressure
exceeds 0.9 bar the cap lifts off the seat and the coolant is allowed to
escape into a no loss tank.
As the engine cools down the system pressure falls and vacuum is formed
.The vacuum valve in the radiator cap opens and allows the water from the
no loss tank to go back into the radiator. Thus the system does not have any
coolant loss during normal operation.
Water for HVAC –

The hot water at the thermostat housing is diverted to the heater unit,
which is located in the passenger compartment for the HVAC function.
The return from the heater is connected to the inlet of the water pump. It
should be noted that a water valve near the heater/climate box controls
the amount of the water, which enters the heater unit. The occupants
determine the amount of the opening of the water valve. It will be full
quantity when it is set is maximum heater mode and vary till the coldest
mode where it will become nil as the valve will be fully closed

Before going into the specifics of the cooling system it is worthwhile to find
out under which driving conditions the complaints is present.
Some of the causes are:
Prolonged /excess idling.

Very high ambient temperature
Slow traffic
Traffic jams
High speed
Steep Gradients.
To avoid overheating under such conditions it will be worthwhile to:

Idle with the AC off .In case the temperature indicator needle is close to
the red band.
Increase the engine idling speed.

Noise Fan shroud 9 Reposition the shroud
1. Fan contacting and inspect the engine
the shroud insulators.
Water pump
1. Loose water 9 Replace the water pump.
pump impeller. 9 Replace water pump.
2. Water pump 9 Tighten mounting bolt
bearing worn/
failure.
3. Loose mounting
of pump
Belts
1. Belt loose 9 Tighten belt
2. Glazed/stretched 9 Replace serpentine belt,
fan belt. 9 Replace pulley.
3. Rough surface on
drive pulley. 9 Check the belt alignment
4. Belt alignment & rectify.
Alternator/Water
pump
1. Alternator 9 Replace alternator

bearing failure bearing
Belt tension
mechanism
1. Idler pulley
bearing failure 9 Replace idler bearing.
2. Idler mounting 9 Replace the idler
bracket failure. bracket.
3. Tension bolt 9 Replace the tension bolt.
failure.
Coolant loss- boil Coolant

over 1. Overfilled 9 Reduce the coolant
recovery tank. level.
2. Insufficient 9 Add the additive.
coolant additive
causing lower
boiling points.
3. Additive 9 Replace the coolant
deteriorated due
to aging/
contamination. 9 Add coolant
4. Low coolant
level.
Hot shut down 9 Allow the engine to run
1. Quick shut downs at idle for some time
after a long and before stopping.
hot run.
9 Find the area of leaks ,
Leakage’s replace hose or if
1. Leaks due to necessary the clamp also
loose hose 9 Pressure test the system
clamps.loose to check for leaks and

nuts, bolts drain then repair as necessary.
plugs, faulty hose
or leaking
radiators. 9 The flash may be visible
Blockages by removing the cooling
1. Casting flash in system components or
the block. the core plugs. Repair or
2. Casting flash in replace.
the cylinder 9 Flush radiator.
head.
3. Blocked radiator
causing under 9 Purge the system.
filling of the
cooling system. 9 Purge the system.
4. Air trapped in
system.
5. Air in the system 9 Replace the cap/ pipe.
causing
occasional
burping.
6. Faulty expansion
bottle cap or
pipe.
Coolant loss- boil Gas mixing
over 1. Cylinder head 9 Replace the cylinder
gasket failure. head gasket
Pressurization 9 Replace the cap.

1. Defective
radiator cap.
Timing
1. Improper engine 9 Check the engine timing,
timing FIP timing, injector
pressure and also the
tappet clearance.
Belt
1. Slipping belts 9 Adjust belt tension.
2. Belt failure 9 Replace belt

Water pump
1. Water pump shaft 9 Replace water pump
broken or
damaged
impeller. 9 Replace Thermostat.
Thermostat
1. Faulty 9 Replace hoses.
Thermostat.
Hoses. 9 Check the functioning of

1. Radiator hoses the VFD replace if
collapsed required.
Fan
1. Cooling fan not 9 Clean the radiator fins.
engaging. 9 Remove the obstruction.
9 Check the brake system.
Air flow
1. Air flow reduced
to choked fins
2. Airflow reduced
due to
obstruction.
Vehicle
Brakes dragging.
High Temperature Improper indication
Indication 1. Faulty sensor 9 Replace the sensor.
2. Faulty gauge 9 Replace the gauge
Coolant entry into 1. Low cylinder 9 Replace the cylinder

Crankcase or head torque. head gasket, torque as
cylinder per procedure.
2. Faulty head 9 Replace the cylinder

gasket. head gasket
9 Replace the affected
part.
3. Blow hole in
crankcase, head ,
liner
Low Temperature 1. Thermostat stuck 9 Replace thermostat.
Gauge Indication- open
Undercooling 2. Faulty sensor. 9 Replace sensor.
3. Faulty gauge. 9 Replace gauge.
Coolant reserve 1. Coolant level low 9 Replenish coolant to
system inoperative FULL level.
2. Leak in system 9 Pressure test to isolate &
repair.
3. Overflow tube 9 Remove clogging
clogged or
leaking.
4. Recovery bottle
vent blocked. 9 Clean vent.
5. Radiator cap
defective. 9 Change the cap.
No coolant flow 1. Restricted return 9 Remove restriction.
trough Heater Core inlet in water
pump. 9 Remove restriction or
2. Heater hoses replace hose.
collapsed or
restricted. 9 Remove flash or
3. Restricted heater restriction.
core.
4. Restricted outlet 9 Remove restriction.
in the thermostat
housing.
5. Heater valve 9 Repair controls.
controls not
functioning.
6. Heater valve 9 Repair or replace
stuck.
Unless there is loss of coolant the coolant additive added is adequate for
80,000 of the vehicle.

The recommended coolant additive is given in the Recommended Coolant

section.
The fan belt tension should not fall below 550 N.
In Car repairs –
Fan belt tension adjustment,

Fan belt replacement.
Fan Blade & the viscous fan drive removal & fitment.
Water pump removal.
Radiator removal
Fan belt tension adjustment –
Loosen the center bolt
Adjust the tension by tightening the

tensioner bolt.

Tighten the center bolt.
Measure the belt tension using the

clavis gauge.
If not found ok, repeat
Fan belt Remove & Refit –
Loosen the belt tension-loosen the

tensioner bolt.
Loosen the center bolt.

Deactivate the belt tension by moving

the belt tensioner away
Remove the fan belt. If required the

fan shrouds can be removed and the
belt removed.
Fan Blade & viscous fan drive assembly removal –

before removing the nut.

from front

Water Pump removal –

Serious burns from the splashing of
hot coolant can occur.

injury
Remove the fan blade
Remove the fan belt
Remove the thermostat housing along

with the thermostat after removing
the mounting bolts.
Remove the inlet and outlet hoses.
Remove the HVAC return line from

the water pump inlet.
Remove the hose connecting the oil

cooler to the water pump.

Remove the water pump assembly

after removing the mounting bolts.
While assembly, ensure that the “O”

ring is seated securely and does not
fall down.
Radiator Removal & Refitment –

Serious burns from the splashing
coolant can occur.
injury
Remove the radiator inlet and outlet

hose

Remove the inlet and outlet hose for

the intercooler.
Remove the condenser mounting

bolts.
Remove the radiator mounting bolts

and remove the radiator along with
the pipe connecting it to the no loss
tank.

Dismantling & Assembly of the Cooling System –
Water Pump
Viscous Fan Drive
CAUTION
Do not remove the radiator draincock or the Engine coolant plate drain
with the engine in hot condition.
Always remove the pressure on the system by removing the radiator cap
before undertaking any work on the cooling system.
If the coolant is not contaminated then collect the coolant in a clean

container so that it can be reused. Replace coolant as per
recommendation
Water pump –
A centrifugal water pump is used to circulate the coolant through the water
jackets, cylinder head, hoses and radiator. The water pump is belt driven
by the engine main drive pulley. It ratio of pulley diameter ensures that the
water pump rotates 1.25 times the engine speed.
The water pump impeller is pressed onto the shaft. The shaft is supported
on two bearings that are integral to the shaft.
The water pump seal is located between the impeller and the housing. The
housing has a small hole to allow the seepage to escape. That also acts as
an indication point if the water pump seal fails.
Water pump removal & Refitment.

The water pump is not serviceable and has to be changed as an assembly.

Viscous Fan Drive Operation –
The viscous drive unit for the engine-cooling fan provides a means for
controlling the speed of the fan relative to the temperature of the engine.
The viscous fan unit is a type of fluid coupling, which drives the fan blade
by means of silicone fluid
There are two main components of the viscous fan drive: input (drive
member), which consist of a threaded shaft passing through a bearing into
the clutch plate and secured to the water pump. The output (driven)
member comprises of the main body to which the fan is attached, with the
temperature sensing mechanism (bimetal coil) and pump plates.

The fan drive has to be engaged only periodically, between 5 to 10% of the
normal operating conditions because the rest of the time the vehicle cools
itself by ram air-cooling.
To engage and disengage the fan drive the bi metal coil senses the air
temperature behind the radiator. When a pre determined temperature is
reached, the coil opens a valve, which allows the fluid to enter the drive
area and due to centrifugal forces circulate to the annular drive area
There are two sets of annular grooves. , One in the drive clutch and the
other in the drive body, a specific clearance being provided between two
sets of grooves. When this clearance is filled with viscous fluid a shearing
action caused by the speed differential between the two drive components,
transmit the torque to the fan. The fluid is thrown to the outside of the
unit by the centrifugal force from where it is recirculated to the reservoir
via the pump plate adjacent to the drive member.
If the engine sped is increased the amount of slip will also increase to limit
the maximum fan speed.
When the air temperature from the radiator drops sufficiently, the bi metal
coil closes the valve and prevents fluid entering the drive area. The fluid
that is in the drive area will gradually pump out into the reservoir and the
fan will return to an idle condition
Checking the VFD –
This procedure will only give an indication that the fan is cutting in and
out, but will not be able to check the accuracy of the cut in temperature.
Depending on the level of the test equipment there are several ways to
check the if the fan is working correctly.
Using a non-contact tachometer
1. Run the engine at idle without any load for approximately 3 minutes, for
example at 2000 rpm, observer the fan drive speed. In the disengaged
mode the fan speed will be approximately 800 rpm. By running for 3
minutes it will ensure that the fan drive has pumped out the silicone
fluid into the reservoir and that the fan drive will be in the cut out (
idle)
2. Either
(a) Blank the radiator by using a sheet of cardboard, which has a 15-cm
hole, cut out of in line with the center of the fan drive. This will
allow a flow of air on the bimetal coil and the cardboard will allow
the radiator to heat up quickly.
Keep a check on the vehicle temperature gauge and let the water
temperature rise to about 105°C. this will ensure that the fan drive will
engage
(b) Using a commercial hot air blower, which will provide a hot air flow
of at least 75°C, direct the air on to the centers of the fan drive through
the radiator. Keep the hot air on for several minutes. This will cut the
fan drive in, and the fan speed will increase. It is important that only a
powerful blower is used so that the hot air should reach the fan drive
after going the radiator at the correct temperature.
3. Once the fan drive has become engaged by either method (a) or (b).
Check the fan speed with the non-contact tachometer. At 2000 rpm
input speed the fan speed should be 1800 rpm.
Testing without a non-contact tachometer
4. Use the same method explained in step 2, but this time listen to the
noise level generated by the fan. With the fan in the idle condition the
noise level should be very low, however when the fan speed increases in
the engaged mode there will be a significant roar from the fan. This will
clearly indicate if the fan drive is working.
If the fan drive fails to engage during these tests, there is something wrong
with the VFD (Viscous Fan Drive). The unit should be replaced.
While returning the failed unit (to Plant for vehicles under warranty) take
care to see that the unit is packed with the sensing coil facing down and
sent in the same way. If this is not observed then the silicone fluid will flow
down to bearing, damaging the bearing and also making it impossible to do
any investigation.
Viscous Fan Drive removal –

before the removing the nut.

Remove the shroud.
Loosen the clutch fan nut.

from front

Note: The VFD assembly should be
kept in 2 positions only.
As far as possible – in vertical plane.

If in horizontal then the bimetallic
strip should be facing down.
If stored in horizontal position

resting on the nut face then the
silicone fluid will flow down to the
bearing assembly and result in
contamination of the bearing’s
lubricant.

Serpentine Poly V Belt –
The 2.49 L engine is having Poly V belt drive. The layout of the belt and
the pulley for the gear drive engine is given above.
The fan belt tension has to be measured between the A/C Compressor
pulley and the alternator pulley.
The accessory belt layout for the Chain drive engines is given below.
Tensioner
pulley
Idler pulley
Power steering Crankshaft damper

pump pulley pulley
The belt must be routed correctly.
The main drive pulley can be assembled in either direction,

however the front end is identified by holes drilled for
! balancing (this are not thorough holes). If assembled wrongly
it will cause misalignment by 5to 6 mm
Belt Diagnosis.
When diagnosing serpentine accessory drive belt,

Small crack that run across the ribbed surface of the belt from rib to
rib are considered normal.
Cracks running along a rib are not normal
The correct belt tension is required to ensure optimum performance of the

belt.
Do not apply any external means to reduce noise. Application of oil will
reduce the belt life.
A detailed drive belt analysis is given below.
Symptom & Possible reasons Correction

condition
Rib chunking (One 1. Foreign objects 9 Remove foreign objects
or more ribs has embedded in from pulley grooves.
separated from belt pulley groove Replace belt
body)- Chunking 2. Installation 9 Replace belt.
happens when damage. 9 Clean pulley, replace if
several cracks in 3. Poor surface of required.
one area of rib move grooves in pulley.
parallel to the cord
line.
Piling- happens 1. Lack of tension 9 Adjust tension
when the material is 2. Misalignment of 9 Correct the alignment.
sheared off the pulleys
undercord and 3. Worn out pulleys
builds up in the 4. Excessive tension.
groove.
Rib or belt wear. 1. Pulley or pulley’s 9 Correct the alignment.

mis aligned. 9 Clean pulleys- replace
2. Abrasive if required.
environment 9 Change pulley.
3. Rusted pulley’s 9 Replace belt.
4. Sharp or jagged
pulley groove tips.
5. Poor surface finish.

Tooth shear 1. Low belt tension 9 Correct the tension.

2. Seizure of driven 9 Replace belt.
part. 9 Align pulleys
3. Misalignment.
Tooth Wear 1. Incorrect tension 9 Adjust tension.
2. Worn out pulleys 9 Change pulleys
Longitudinal Belt 1. Belt has mis- 9 Replace belt.
cracking (Cracks tracked from 9 Change pulley.
between two ribs.) pulley groove.
2. Pulley groove tip
has worn out the
rubber to tensile
member.
Belt slips 1. Belts slipping 9 Adjust belt tension.
because of 9 Clean pulleys.
insufficient tension 9 Replace the failed
2. Belt or pulley components.
subjected to 9 Replace belt
substances that
reduce the belt
life ( oil, grease,
ethylene alcohol)
3. Driven
component’s
bearing failure.
4. Belt hardened and
glazed from heat
and excessive
slippage.
Groove jumping ( 1. Belt tensions 9 Adjust belt tension.
belt does not either too high or 9 Replace pulleys.
maintain correct too low. 9 Clean pulleys.
position on pulley) 2. Pulleys not within 9 Correct the alignment
design tolerances. 9 Replace belt.
3. Foreign objects in
groove.
4. Pulley
misalignment,
5. Belt cordline is
broken.
Belt broken 1. Excessive tension. 9 Adjust belt tension

2. Tensile members 9 Correct the alignment
damaged during 9 Replace the failed
installation. component.
3. Severe
misalignment.
4. Bracket pulley or
bearing failure.
Noise 1. Belt slippage 9 Adjust belt.
Objectionable 2. Bearing noise 9 Replace the defective
squeak, squeal 3. Belt mis alignment bearing.
rumble heard or felt 4. Belt to pulley 9 Adjust alignment.
while drive belt is in mismatch. 9 Use the correct belt.
operation 5. Driven component 9 Vary belt tension within
induced vibration specifications.
6. System resonant 9 Replace belt.
frequency induced
vibration.
Tensile failure 1. Tension sheeting 9 Correct rubbing
contacting condition.
stationary object. 9 Replace belt.
2. Excessive heat 9 Correct the tension.
causing woven 9 Replace pulley.
fabric to age.
3. Excessive
installation
tension.
4. Foreign body in
drive.
5. Belt crimped due
to improper
handling.
6. Tension sheathing
splice has
fractured.
Oil contamination 1. Oil leaks. 9 Correct the oil leak
condition.
Cord edge failure ( 2. Excessive tension 9 Adjust tension.

Tensile member 3. Belt contacting 9 Remove the stationary
exposed at edges of stationary objet. objects fouling.
belt or separated 4. Pulleys out of 9 Replace pulleys.
from Belt body) tolerance. 9 Replace pulley.
5. Insufficient
adhesion between
tensile member &
rubber matrix.
Rib chunking –

Piling –
Tooth Shear
Tooth wear

Tensile failure
Oil contamination
Cord Edge failure

Specifications –
Radiator capacity 2.15 liters

Cooling system capacity 9.3 liters
Coolant GLYSANTIN G45-23
Ratio 30%
Coolant to be added after 2.79 liters
draining/flushing
Radiator pressure 0.9 bar
- fan starts at ( For reference Sensor
only) Input speed – 3600 rpm
- fan stops at ( For reference Sensor
Only) Input speed – 1300 rpm
Input speed of Fan pulley 1.30x Engine speed.
No of fan blades 11
Fan blade size 370 mm
Fan Belt tension New installation 800 Newton
Stabilized 580 Newton
Fan Belt tension-Minimum 550 Newton
Fan Belt tension New installation –165 ± 2 Hz

Fan Belt tension- Chain Drive- New installation –170 ± 5 Hz
Gates make Stabilized –140 Hz Min
Bolt location Torque in Nm

Viscous Fan clutch nut 40-50

Fuel System
Contents
CRDe
Non-CRDe


Fuel System
Contents
Description
Trouble Shooting
Care of the System
In Car Repairs
Dismantling, Inspection & overhaul of the Fuel Injection Equipment
Specifications
Tightening Torques


Description
The fuel system can be divided into following subgroups.

Fuel filling.
Fuel supply from tank to High Pressure pump .
High Pressure Pump & injectors including the High pressure pipes.
Return line from High Pressure Pump to tank
The fuel is filled from the opening provided at rear left. The fuel cap is
ventilated and threaded type. The cap is locked in place when further
turning action result in clicking of the ratchet. the fuel tank lid is
electrically operated . The switch is fitted on the centre bezel .
While filling the tank, the air entrapped inside is vented by the vent tube,
which is connected at the mouth of the inlet pipe. The venting is done from
the highest point in the fuel tank. The fuel tank has a capacity of 58 liters.


During operation the fuel pump due to the vacuum created by the internal
feed pump the fuel is sucked through the filter, to the high pressure pump.
The high pressure pump, pressurizes, & supplies the fuel to the common
rail . The fuel then comes to the injectors.
The fuel back leak from injectors and return from HPP comes through
return line.
The entire length of the fuel tank is protected at the bottom by a stone
guard.

Engine will not 1. Clogged fuel filter/ 9 Change fuel filter
start & emit fuel lines 9 Check fuel supply line.
black smoke
2. Defective injectors 9 Refer diagnostic
manual
Noisy engine & 1. Injector coking. 9 Clean external coking
black smoke. 2. CR System 9 Refer the diagnostic
manual
Engine speed falls 1. Clogged fuel filter/ 9 Change fuel filter
off. fuel lines 9 Check fuel supply line.
2. 9 Refer diagnostic
manual.
Engine does not 1. Clogged fuel filter/ 9 Change fuel filter
give full power. fuel lines 9 Check fuel supply line.
2. Defective 9 Replace filters.
injectors. 9 Locate the kink/block
3. in return pipe and
rectify.


9 Refer diagnostic
manual
Black smoke. 1. Defective injectors 9 Check injectors.

2. CR system 9 Refer diagnostic.
Engine will not 1. Weak battery 9 Check the battery

start 2. Corroded or loose specific gravity.
battery connection 9 Clean & tighten battery
3. Faulty starter. connections.
4. CR system 9 Repair starter.
9 Refer diagnostic
manual.
The fuel injection system depends on supply of clean diesel fuel for the
proper functioning of the fuel system.
To ensure that High Pressure Pump receives clean fuel all the times it is
advisable that the fuel filter is replaced at the specified intervals.
The fuel filter should be changed at every 20,000 Kms. If the operating
conditions are poor then reduce the change interval. The fuel filter is
equipped with water separator. If the water level indication comes on in
the instrument panel, then the water should be immediately drained.
The internal components of the High Pressure Pump depend on the

lubricating properties of diesel for lubricating them. Hence, if water is
present in the fuel then lubrication between the component break down
and there is seizure.
In Car Repairs –
The In Car repairs which can be carried out are:

Removal & Replacement of the fuel filer


Draining the water from the fuel filters.
Removal & refitting injectors.
Removal & refitting the HPP
Removal of the fuel tank.
Removal & Replacement of the fuel filer —
1. Loosen the Fuel Filter Element.
2. Loosen ‘Water in Fuel Sensor’ at the bottom of the Fuel Filter element.
3. Fit the ‘Water in Fuel Sensor’ taken out from old Fuel Filter Element on
the New Fuel Filter Element.
4. Fit the New Element fitted with sensor on the filter body, tighten
properly.


Draining the water from the fuel filter –
1. Loosen Water in Fuel Sensor at the bottom of the Fuel Filter.
2. Allow the Water accumulated in the filter to drain out.
3. Tighten the Water in Fuel Sensor properly.


Removal & refitting injector –

Loosen the high-pressure pipes from
both the common rail end &
injectors.
Avoid loosening only at one end as it

can cause strain in the pipes, while
removing the injectors
Remove the injector clamps.
Remove the injector.
While refitting, the injector use a

new washer between the injector &
cylinder head.(Thickness of washer
should be 3mm)
Avoid using two-injector washer.

Normally it tends to happen if the
older washer is not removed and has
got stuck to cylinder head.

It will change the injector tip height

to change and affect combustion.
Removal & refitting the HPP –
Bring the 1st cylinder in compression.

gauge. Check by the dial if the piston
is in TDC)



Remove the front cover in the timing

cover.
Loosen & remove the High Pressure

Pump locking nut.


Remove the High Pressure Pump using

the pusher.
Removal of the fuel tank –
• Disconnect the fuel tank supply hose and the vent hose.
• Disconnect the fuel supply and return hoses
• Disconnect the fuel gauges, tank unit electrical connection.
• Remove the skid plate.
• Remove the mounting 5 no bolts.
• Lower the fuel tank on to the transmission jack
• The assembly procedure is the reverse of the disassembly.
Fuel Tank Strainer Cleaning –


Remove the Fuel Tank from the vehicle.
1. Take out the ‘Fuel Strainer with main line assembly’ by removing the
fastening bolts.
2. Blow the compressed air gradually with low pressure as per the
direction indicated by the arrow in the illustration above.
Clean the fuel tank. Complete the Fuel Tank Assembly & refit it on the
vehicle.
Fuel Tank Strainer Replacement –
• Remove the Fuel Tank from the vehicle.
1. Take out the ‘Fuel Strainer with main line assembly’ by removing the
fastening bolts. Replace the ‘Fuel Strainer with main line assembly’.
• Clean the fuel tank. Complete the Fuel Tank Assembly & refit it
on the vehicle.


Dismantling, Inspection & overhaul of the High Pressure Pump –
The HPP is non - serviceable.
Specifications –
Bosch CRS 2.2
HPP Type: CP1H
ECU: EDC 16C
Location Torque in Nm (lbf-ft)

High pressure pipe pump to Rail 20 ± 2 Nm ( 15±1 lbf-ft)
High pressure pipe to Rail 35 Nm (26 lbf-ft)
High Pressure Pipe to injector 27±2 Nm (20± 1 lbf-ft)
Injector holder clamping 25±3 Nm (18 ± 2 lbf-ft)

Rail mounting on intake 22.5±2.5 Nm ( 16.5 ± 2 lbf-ft)
manifold


Fuel System
Contents
Description
Trouble Shooting
Care of the System
In Car Repairs
Dismantling ,Inspection & overhaul of the Fuel Injection Equipment.
Specification

Description –

The fuel system can be divided into following subgroups.

Fuel filling.
Fuel supply from tank to FIP
FIP &injectors including the High pressure pipes.
Return line from FIP to tank
The fuel is filled from the opening provided at rear left. The fuel cap is
ventilated and threaded type. The cap is locked in place when further
turning action result in clicking of the ratchet.
When filling the tank, the air entrapped inside is vented by the vent tube,
which is connected at the mouth of the inlet pipe. The venting is done from
the highest point in the fuel tank. The fuel tank has a capacity of 58 liters.
During operation the fuel pump due to the vacuum created by the internal
feed pump the fuel is sucked through the Primary fuel & Secondary filters, to
the fuel pump.
The rotary pump, pressurizes, meters and distributes the correct amount of
fuel to the injectors through the high-pressure pipes.
The excess amount of fuel from the FIP and the injectors is sent back to the
Fuel tank.
The entire length of the fuel tank is protected at the bottom by a

stoneguard.


Engine will not start 1. Clogged fuel filter/ 9 Change fuel filter
& emit black smoke fuel lines 9 Check fuel supply line.
2. Defective injectors 9 Calibrate injectors.

3. Engine timing. 9 Check engine timing.
9 Replace FIP,
4. Defective FIP
Noisy engine & black 1. Improper injection 9 Check & correct the
smoke. timing. Timing.
2. Seized injectors. 9 Replace injectors.
Engine speed falls 1. Clogged fuel filter/ 9 Change fuel filter

off. fuel lines 9 Check fuel supply line.
9 Check the supply to
2. Solenoid supply solenoid and the
intermittent or solenoid.
loose
3. Defective FIP 9 Rectify the FIP.
Engine does not give 1. Clogged fuel filter/ 9 Change fuel filter
full power. fuel lines 9 Check fuel supply line.
9 Check & correct timing.
2. Injection pump 9 Replace filters.
timing. 9 Calibrate injectors
3. Defective 9 Plug the leaks, replace
injectors. hose or clip if required.
5. Return pipe 9 Tighten the HP pipe to
blocked. the correct torque.
6. Defective FIP 9 Locate the kink/block
in return pipe and
rectify.
9 Repair or replace the

FIP.
9 Check the pipe, washer
& rectify.
Irregular idling 1. Solenoid supply 9 Check the connection
intermittent or or replace solenoid
loose 9 Tighten the unions or
2. Leaking HP unions. replace the High-
pressure pipes.
9 Replace all the banjo
3. Air entering fuel washers and check for
system. the cracks in fuel line
particularly from Tank
to FIP
9 Adjust the idling stop.
9 Replace FICD.
4. Idling stop out of 9 Repair or replace FIP.
adjustment 9 Replace with original
5. Defective FICD. pipes.
6. Defective FIP
7. Wrong High
pressure pipes.
Engine stalls when 1. Improper anti stall 9 Rfer to idling setting
accelerator pedal is setting. procedure. Set on
released 2. Water vehicle.
contamination 9 FIP overhaul.
causing partial
seizure of FIP Find the cause of water
9
contamination & take
corrective action
Black smoke. 3. Defective injectors 9 Check injectors.
4. Improper FIP 9 Correct the timing
timing 9 Rectify or replace FIP.
5. Defective FIP.
White smoke. 1. Clogged fuel filter/ 9 Check & correct timing.

fuel lines 9 Check & correct KSB
2. Improper FIP

timing.
3. Cold start advance
not working.
Engine will not start 1. Weak battery 9 Check the battery
2. Corroded or loose specific gravity.
battery connection 9 Clean & tighten battery
3. Faulty starter. connections.
4. Defective FIP’s 9 Repair starter.
solenoid/ no 9 Check connection or
supply to solenoid. replace solenoid
5. Improper earthing. 9 Rectify earthing.
6. Faulty FIP 9 Replace FIP
The fuel injection system depends on supply of clean diesel fuel for the
proper functioning of the fuel system.
To ensure that FIP receives clean fuel all the times it is advisable that the
fuel filters are replaced at the specified intervals.
Primary should be changed at 10,000 Kms and the secondary at 20,000

Kms. If the operating conditions are poor then reduce the change interval.
Both the fuel filters should be of paper and coil type.
It should be noted that replacement of both the filters at the same time has
to be avoided.
It should be understood that when the filters get choked then the filtering
efficiency that is the size of particle they are able to stop improves.
However, if it gets fully choked then the flow of the fuel is very less and
inadequate at higher speed. Hence if only one filter is changed at a time
then the fuel flow is also adequate and maintains a higher filtering
efficiency. The working clearance of the FIP components are in order of few
microns, hence the importance of the above procedure is high.

The internal components of the Fuel Injection pump depend on the

lubricating properties of diesel for lubricating them. Hence, if water is
present in the fuel then lubrication between the component break down and
there is seizure. The commonly affected components tend to be either the
distributor head & the piston or the control sleeve getting jammed.
To avoid such an occurrence, it is recommended that at every 5000 kms

water be drained from the bottom of the filter bowls. During monsoons,
the frequency can be increase to every fortnight.
The procedure, which should be followed, is:

• Loosen the drain bolt.
• Loosen the filter mounting bolt.
• Drain the water at the bottom of the bowl.
• Close the drain bolt and then the mounting bolt.
In a Turbocharger engine, fuelling is dependent on the boost being sensed by

the LDA unit hence it is essential that at each service the hose connecting
the inlet manifold to LDA unit be checked. If in doubt, replace the hose.
Any air leak in this pipe or joint will result in the FIP’s delivery not matching
the boost being achieved and will show as reduced power delivery.
The FICD unit is actuated by vacuum whenever the HVAC system is switched
on and ensures that the idling rpm stays within the specified band. Irregular
idling when AC is switched on will indicate any leak in the vacuum line.
Hence checking the vacuum pipes from the alternator to the FICD unit
should be done at each service.
In Car Repairs –
The In Car repairs which can be carried out are:

Removal & Replacement of the fuel filers.
Draining the water from the fuel filters.
Removal & refitting injectors.

Idling setting.
Removal & refitting the FIP.
Removal & replacement of the accelerator cable.
Removal of the fuel tank.
Removal & Replacement of the fuel filers –
Loosen the filter-mounting bolt.
Remove the filter

While fitting back, fit the filter with a
new O ring.
For bleeding the system, loosen the

high-pressure pipe unions and use the
hand primer.

Draining the water from the fuel filters –
Loosen the drain bolt.
Loosen the filter mounting bolt.
Drain the water.

Tighten the drain bolt and then the
filter mounting bolt
For bleeding the system, loosen the

high-pressure pipe unions and use the
hand primer.

Removal & refitting injectors –
Loosen the high-pressure pipes from

both the FIP end & injectors.
Avoid loosening only at one end as it

can cause strain in the pipes, while
removing the injectors
Remove the leak off pipe from
injectors to FIP overflow bolt.
Remove the injector clamps.

While refitting, the injectors use a

new washer between the injector &
cylinder head.(Thickness of washer
should be 3mm)
Avoid using two-injector washer.

Normally it tends to happen if the
older washer is not removed and has
got stuck to cylinder head.
It will change the injector tip height

to change and affect combustion.

Idling Setting –
Anti Stall Screw Clamp
Idling Screw
Fast Idling Screw
LFG
Lever

The idle setting comprises two Steps:
A. Low idle setting.
B. Fast Idle setting/ Idle setting with AC on.
A. Low idle setting –
Observe / record idling rpm in as is

condition.
Ensure LFG lever is resting on idling

screw Gap between LFG lever and
clamp on cable to be approx. 1.0 to
1.5 mm.
If LFG lever is resting on clamp,

release the clamp and check for Idling
rpm again.

If idling rpm is in spec.
Set AC idling as defined in

procedure ‘B’
Go to procedure B
If idling is not in spec. adjust the
idling by following method
Unscrew anti-stalling fully such a way
that this has no effect on idling rpm
and idling is controlled by normal
idling screw.
Unscrew Fast idle screw to ensure it

doesn't stop the movement of LFG
lever.

Set the idling to 845 - 850 rpm approx.

by adjusting idling screw.
Screw in : increases rpm

Screw out : reduces rpm
Re set the anti-stalling screw to get

idling rpm of 855 - 860 approx.
Idling set with anti stalling should be

slightly more then normal idling to
ensure anti stalling screw is in proper
position
Set or ensure the gap between clamp
and LFG screw, lock it at that position.

Set Fast Idling as explained in

procedure ‘B’
B. Fast idle setting./ Idle setting with AC ON –
Ensure Idling is with in the

specification
Ensure gap is maintained between LFG

lever and clamp
Switch on the AC.
When AC is on vacuum supply will go

to PLA unit, which activates the LFG
lever and pulls in lever so that it butts
against fast idle screw.
Ensure that the LGF lever is pulled.
Measure engine rpm.
If rpm is out of specification adjust

the fast idle screw to get required
rpm.

Screw in : Decrease rpm ,

Screw out: Increase idling rpm.
Caution : The fast idle screw

movement effect on Engine RPM is
the reverse of the idle screw
movement/
With AC on ( load on engine) fast idle
rpm should be between 850 - 950
Lock the fast idle screw in that

position.
Removal & refitting the FIP –
Bring the 1st cylinder in compression.

gauge. Check by the dial if the piston
is in TDC)

To lock the FIP

Loosen the timing lock bolt. Move the
lock plate away & then tighten the
Timing lock bolt so that it locks the
camshaft.

Remove the FIP connections and fuel

supply.

Remove the FIP mounting bracket
Remove the front cover in the timing

cover.
Loosen & remove the FIP locking nut.

And then the 4 mounting nuts on the
flange and the bracket at the rear,
While fitting back the FIP. The plunger
travel of the FIP has to be checked.
Remove the center bolt at the back.
Mount the dial gauge using the special
tool.
plate and then retighten .So that the
camshaft is free. Failure to do so will
damage the FIP’s camshaft when the
engine is rotated.
1.2 mm
Removal & replacement of the accelerator cable –
Remove the accelerator cable from

pedal end.
Remove the cable end from the FIP

lever end.
Do not lubricate the accelerator

cable. If the movement is found
sticky. Please rectify the routing or
replace.
Lubricating will not remove the root

cause and will only aggravate the
complaint as dust will stick and cause
it to get jammed.
Further these cable are having EPDM

coated and do not require any
external lubrication.

Removal of the fuel tank—
Disconnect the fuel tank supply hoe

and the vent hose.
Disconnect the fuel supply and return

hoses
Disconnect the fuel gauges, tank unit

electrical connection.
Remove the skid plate.

Remove the mounting 5 no bolts.
Lower the fuel tank on to the

transmission jack
The assembly procedure is the
reverse of this.
Dismantling, Inspection & overhaul of the Fuel Injection Equipment --
The FIP and injectors are high precision equipment.

It is recommended that they are serviced in the OEM’ dealers or their
authorized workshops only. Where the necessary equipment for dismantling,
testing and calibration is available along with trained personnel.
The 2.49 L & 2.6 L is fitted with MICO BOSCH’s Fuel pump and injectors.
The high-pressure pipes also form an integral part of the injection system.
Hence, the use of non-genuine pipes whose lengths or thickness or inner
diameter may vary from the original will adversely influence the
performance. Any one of the parameter changes affects the fuel being
injected into cylinder in terms of the quantity and timing.
The Injector sealing washer also forms an integral part of the injection
system. Hence, the use of non-genuine washers whose thickness or inner
diameter may vary from the original (3 mm thick) will adversely affect the
performance.

Specifications –
Euro II
FIP 0460 414 240
Static timing 1.2 mm plunger lift @ TDC
Overflow valve φ 0.75 mm
Features in FIP
LDA ( Increases the fuelling according to Yes
boost)
FBB( Lock timing bolt) Yes
PLA unit( Controls the idling to the Yes
specified band when the AC is switched
ON)
LFG (Avoids the fuelling to become zero Yes
during gear changing thus improving
driveabiility.)
KSB ( Cold start advance) Yes
Potentiometer ( Is used to give the input Yes

of the engine load to the controller for
EGR)
Injector F
Identification Red colur ring
NOP ( Nozzle Opening Pressure) 250+8 bar
Specification (No of holes x hole dia x 7x0.203x150°
Spray angle
Nozzle holder F002 C70 555, 1200 bar
Nozzle F002 C40 532 (DSLA 150 P 1093)
High Pressure pipe 6 x 1.8 x 480
( OD x Thickness x length)

Location Torque
FIP Lock screw 12.5±2.5 Nm
All M5 nuts/ Bolts on FIP 2~3 Nm
High Pressure Pipe Nut 25±3 Nm
Injector holding clamping stud. 25±3 Nm

Injector Overflow pipe Banjo 5-7 Nm
nut
LDA hose on FIP 10-15 Nm
LDA hose banjo on manifold 10-15 Nm
Fast idle screw on FIP 10-15 Nm
FIP Inlet & Outlet Banjo 15~20 Nm

Emission Control system
Contents
CRDe
Non-CRDe


Contents
Description
Trouble Shooting
Care of the System
Checking the System


Description
The CRDe engines meet the BS II and BS III emission norms.
Overall, two systems are used.

Exhaust Gas re circulation.
Closed crankcase ventilation
Signal out Vacuum

Temperature
Modulator
Sensor
Exhaust Air
Speed Sensor E
(Flywheel)
C
Load Sensor U Engine
(FPM) Vacuum
EGR Valve Reservoi
Air mass
flow
Boost
Pressure
Alternator
Intake Air with Vacuum
pump
During acceleration and in higher loads the engine generates high

combustion temperatures. The high combustion temperatures increase the
NOx generation. The higher percentage of NOx generated in the combustion
chamber. Since the exhaust, gas is already burnt hence when mixed with
fresh air acts an inert gas. The role it does is that it reduces the amount of
oxygen available for combustion. The net effect is that it reduces the peak

combustion temperatures. This results in lower amount of NOx being

generated.
To control the amount/percentage of exhaust gases to be circulated back

to the combustion chamber the ECU, which is already controlling the
common rail functions, is used.
The ECU monitors the air flow, coolant temperature, attitude, engine
speed, and accelerator pedal position. Based on the above parameters the
ECU operates a switch that in turn controls the amount of vacuum going to
the EGR valve. The amount of vacuum applied controls the lift of the EGR
valve. The lift of the EGR valve is sensed. This lift is used as feedback signal
to the ECU
The inputs of the engine speed (from the flywheel sensor); Throttle position
(from the potentiometer.) is fed in one map. Another map uses the throttle
position and correlate in terms of the acceleration. The third map uses the
water temperature. Another map uses the input from airflow sensor (HFM),
correlates with the load and decides the amount of EGR opening. The
inputs from tall these maps are added together to give an input to the EGR
pressure modulator.
At the same time it has a set point that if the water temperature is less
than 25 ° C or more than 95°C. Then the EGR will not be operated.
The acceleration map ensures that if the rate of acceleration is above a

certain level then the EGR will not operate. This feature allows full engine
power to be available during acceleration (say during overtaking).
In the Euro IV engine the Exhaust gas being fed to the engine passes through
the EGR cooler so that the exhaust gases get cooled & in turn the NOx is
controlled in a more effective manner.
The vacuum connections are shown below.


Functional blcok diagram of the Crankcase ventialtion is given below –
Rocker cover
Cylinder head
Block


The ventilation system is closed ventilation type. A hose connects the

ladder frame assembly to the rocker cover. His hose balances the gas
pressure in the rocker cover and sump.
The oil vapours from the rocker cover go to the oil separator, which is
mounted directly on top of the rocker cover.
Before entering the separator the vapour & oil mixture has to pass through
the wire mesh.
After entering the separator the oil + vapours go through the baffle type
labyrinth separator. The oil, which gets condensed go back to the rocker
cover through the valves provided on the bottom face of the separator.
A spring-loaded diaphragm controls the outlet from the oil separator to the
inlet manifold. The vacuum of the inlet is applied on a spring-loaded
diaphragm. (Note to avoid pressure build up in low speed driving there is a
minimum clearance of 0.5 mm)



Engine does not give 1. Gas leak between 9 Change the gasket or
full power. EGR pipe joints. the hose.
2. EGR pipe leak. 9 Change the pipe.
3. EGR valve 9 Check the EGR using
improper the blink codes.
functioning. Proceed appropriately.
9 Ensure vacuum
4. Vacuum hose connections at vacuum
crack, loose, fallen modulator, reservoir,
off and alternator.

smoke gasket defective. head gasket.
9 Lap the valve seats or
2. Worn out or regrind.
damaged valve
seats. 9 Tighten the injector
3. Leaking injector holder.
holder.
9 Confirm & check
4. Leakage at EGR -Gasket condition
Valve flange face, - Bolt torque.
exhaust manifold
and EGR pipe end.
Black smoke. 1. EGR valve stuck Check the EGR valve.
open
consumption line hoses from the alternator to
the EGR valve (for
BSII)- check for leaks,
crack. Replace cracked
2. Restriction in hoses.
crankcase 9 Locate & remove
breather. restriction.
3. Damaged oil 9 Check the crankcase

separator ventilation & rectify.

9 Replace the oil
4. Bend/kink in any separator
of the oil return 9 Change the vacuum
pipe’s/vacuum hoses.
hoses. 9 Remove the bend or
kinks.
Care of the System
To meet the emission norms it is essential that the Fuel system, Air intake
system & cooling system be maintained as per the schedule .For details
refer to the particular section
Generally it is not appreciated that if the engine is running below the

optimum temperature (happens when thermostat is removed then tailpipe
emissions in particular the particulate increases (up to 30%). Similarly a
wrong grade or poor quality of fuel increases the emissions. A blocked air
cleaner or restriction in intake system increases the emissions
Oil separator system –
Check the hose connection at every 10,000 Kms for cracks, aging and leaks.
EGR –
On vehicles fitted with EGR system the following additional points check
have to done during scheduled maintenance.
gaskets is used. Do not open the pipe from one end only; it will cause the


ends.
The EGR is controlled by the Engine ECU. The ECU is an electronic device.
Hence it is prone to get damaged if spikes are generated in the system.
It is advised that the following precautions be taken.
♦ If any welding work is being carried out on the vehicle then the battery
terminals are removed.
♦ Similarly, the practices of shorting the battery to check the battery have
to be avoided. (It can cause a spike.).
♦ The practice of changing battery with a running engine is also not

acceptable. Again, the resultant spike can damage the controller beyond
repairs.
EGR Valve –
To check for the functioning of the EGR valve apply vacuum on the vacuum
connection of the EGR valve. The lift of the valve at the required vacuum
should be achieved.
EGR Pipe –
To check the pipe for any leakages, close one end of flange and from other
end blow air at two bars. Dip the pipe in water and observe if any leakage
is observed. If any leaks are observed then the pipe has to be replaced. Do
not attempt to weld/ seal the leakage joint

EGR ECU –
The EGR is controlled by the ECU controlling the Common rail.
However, like any ECU care has to be taken that if any welding work is
being carried out on the vehicle then the battery terminals are removed.
Similarly, the practices of shorting the battery to check the battery have to
be avoided. (It can cause a spike.). The practice of changing battery with a
running engine is also not acceptable. Again, the resultant spike can
damage the controller beyond repairs
Checking the System

EGR System –
The EGR system functioning can be checked only when we use the
diagnostic equipment.


Contents
Description
Trouble Shooting
Care of the System
Checking the System.

Description --
Engines meet the Euro II emission norms. To control the NOx an Exhaust gas
recirculation is used.
Overall, two systems are used.
Exhaust Gas re circulation.

Closed crankcase ventilation
Signal out Vacuum

Modulator
Temperature Exhaust Air
Sensor E
C
Speed Sensor
(Alternator) U Engine EGR Valve
Vacuum
Reservoi
Load Sensor
Intake Air
Alternator
with Vacuum
pump
During acceleration and in higher loads the engine generates high

combustion temperatures. The high combustion temperatures increase the
NOx generation. The higher percentage of NOx generated in the combustion
chamber.
All copyrightsSince
reserved by the exhaust, gas is already burnt hence when mixed with
fresh air acts an inert gas. Thus when the exhaust gas mixed with fresh air
enters the combustion chamber. The role it does is that it reduces the
amount of oxygen available for combustion. The net effect is that it reduces
the peak combustion temperatures. This results in lower amount of NOx
being generated.
To control the amount/percentage of exhaust gases to be circulated back to

the combustion chamber an ECU is used. The ECU monitors the coolant
temperature, attitude, engine speed, and accelerator pedal position. Based
on the above parameters the ECU operates a switch that in turn controls the
amount of vacuum going to the EGR valve. The amount of vacuum applied
controls the lift of the EGR valve.

The inputs of the engine speed (from the alternator W terminal); Throttle
position (from the potentiometer.) is fed in one map. Another map uses the
throttle position and correlate in terms of the acceleration. The third map
uses the water temperature. The inputs from the 3 maps are added together
to give an input to the EGR pressure modulator. The EGR valve lift feedback
is taken and the signal to the modulator suitable increased or decreased.
At the same time it has a set point that if the water temperature is less than
25 ° C or more than 95°C. Then the EGR will not be operated. Also if the
water temperature is less than 30° C then the cold start advance (KSB) will
be in operation.
The acceleration map ensures that if the rate of acceleration is above a

certain level then the EGR will not operate. This feature allows full engine
power to be available during acceleration (say during overtaking).
The EGR controller is located just below the co driver’s seat.
The vacuum connections are shown below.

FICD
FICD at
Reservoir switch
FIP
Pressure
Modulator
Vacuum
pump
Alternator
EGR To air
Valve cleaner

The ventilation system is closed ventilation type. A hose connects the oil
sump assembly to the rocker cover. This hose balances the gas pressure in
the rocker cover and sump. The second hose goes from the rocker cover to
the oil separator. This hose also has a coarse mesh, which trap the bigger
particles.
The vapors with the oil particle enter the separator and due to the
centrifugal action are again separated. The vacuum after the air cleaner
acts on to the top of the diaphragm. The balance of the vacuum against the
spring and the vapor pressure controls the amount of the oil going to the
sump.


Engine does not give 1. Gas leak between 9 Change the gasket or
full power. EGR pipe joints. the hose.
2. EGR pipe leak. 9 Change the pipe.
3. EGR valve 9 Check the EGR using
improper the blink codes.
functioning. Proceed appropriately.
9 Ensure vacuum
4. Vacuum hose connections at vacuum
crack, loose, fallen modulator, reservoir,
off and alternator.

smoke gasket defective. head gasket.
9 Lap the valve seats or
2. Worn out or regrind.
damaged valve
seats. 9 Check the FIP timing.
3. FIP timing. 9 Tighten the injector
holder. (Check if the
4. Leaking injector injector holder of the
holder. BS 2 does not have the
BS1 holder.)
9 Confirm & check

5. Leakage at EGR -Gasket condition
Valve flange face, - Bolt torque.
exhaust manifold
and EGR pipe end.
Black smoke. 1. EGR valve stuck Check the EGR valve-
open using the blink code &
confirm.


consumption line hoses from the alternator to
2. Restriction in FICD and the EGR valve
crankcase (for BSII)- check for
breather. leaks, crack. Replace
3. Damaged oil cracked hoses.
separator 9 Locate & remove
4. Bend/kink in any restriction.
of the oil return 9 Check the crankcase
pipe’s/vacuum ventilation & rectify.
hoses. 9 Replace the oil
separator
9 Change the vacuum
hoses.
9 Remove the bend or
kinks.
To meet the emission norms it is essential that the Fuel system, Air intake
system & cooling system be maintained as per the schedule .For details
refer to the particular section
Generally it is not appreciated that if the engine is running below the

optimum temperature (happens when thermostat is removed then tailpipe
emissions in particular the particulate increases (up to 30%). Similarly a
wrong grade or poor quality of fuel increases the emissions. A blocked air
cleaner or restriction in intake system increases the emissions
Oil separator system –
Check the hose connection at every 10,000 Kms for cracks, aging and leaks.
EGR –
On vehicles fitted with EGR system the following additional points check
have to done during scheduled maintenance.
• Check blink codes every 10,000 kms.
While doing the tappet clearance, in case of vehicle fitted with EGR system
ensure that the EGR pipe is not bend or overstress the pipes, elbow.
gaskets is used. Do not open the pipe from one end only; it will cause the
ends.
The ECU/controller controlling the EGR operation is an electronic device.

Hence it is prone to get damaged if spikes are generated in the system.
It is advised that the following precautions be taken.
♦ If any welding work is being carried out on the vehicle then the battery
terminals are removed.
♦ Similarly, the practices of shorting the battery to check the battery have
to be avoided. (It can cause a spike.).
♦ The practice of changing battery with a running engine is also not

acceptable. Again, the resultant spike can damage the controller beyond
repairs.
EGR Valve –

To check for the functioning of the EGR valve apply vacuum on the vacuum
connection of the EGR valve. The lift of the valve at the required vacuum
should be achieved.
EGR Pipe –
cleaning spay on the nut.
To check the pipe for any leakage’s, close one end of flange and from other
end blow air at two bars. Dip the pipe in water and observe if any leakage is
observed. If any leaks are observed then the pipe has to be replaced. Do not
attempt to weld/ seal the leakage joint
EGR ECU –
Does not require any maintenance.
However, like any ECU care has to be taken that if any welding work is being
carried out on the vehicle then the battery terminals are removed.
Similarly, the practices of shorting the battery to check the battery have to
be avoided. (It can cause a spike.). The practice of changing battery with a
running engine is also not acceptable. Again, the resultant spike can damage
the controller beyond repairs
Checking the System –
EGR System
Checking the system by using the blink codes:

9 Procedure
9 Blink code details

Check the EGR Valve

Checking the EGR pipe.
Procedure for checking the failure /system by blink codes is:
♦ Connect an external 2 W bulb to the appropriate connector.

♦ Switch the ignition switch to ON position.
♦ Wait for minimum 3 minute.
♦ Start the engine and run at idle.
♦ If the light is continuously on then the system is defect free and in good
condition.
♦ If the lamp is blinking, observe the blink and compare it with the defect
chart.
Caution :
!
Use of bulb higher than 2W can damage the ECU
Observe the bulb for a minimum of 10 second
Observe the lamp for the blink codes.
Observe the light for at least 10 seconds
The blink codes details are:
Sl. No. Parameter Error type Blink code

1 EGR ECU No errors Lamp ON
continuously
2 EGR ECU No ECU supply / No blink

ECU defective
3 Throttle sensor No Signal On 2s/Off 2s

Sensor not On 1s/Off 5s

connected /
Setting error
4 Temperature Open / Short On 5s/Off 1s

sensor
5 EGR Valve No Signal / (On 0.5s Off 0.5)* 2

sensor Sensor not cycles than Off 3s
connected
Valve not lifting (On 0.5s Off 0.5)* 3

cycles then Off 3s
Valve not closing (On 0.5s Off 0.5)*

continuously.

Clutch
Contents
Description
Trouble Shooting
In Car Repairs
Clutch Actuation Mechanism
Clutch overhaul
Inspection
Specification & Wear Limit
Tightening Torques
Lubricant
List of the MSTs

Description
The clutch disc is a single, dry type with cushion springs in the hub. The clutch disc’s
friction material is riveted to the hub.
The clutch cover is a diaphragm type with one-piece construction. A 240-mm clutch
disc is used.
In the engaged position (when the clutch pedal is not pressed), the diaphragm spring
of the clutch cover assembly holds the clutch pressure plate against the clutch disc.
This enables the engine torque to be transmitted to the input shaft of the gearbox,
without any slip / loss.
The clutch is hydraulically actuated with self-adjusting features. The complete

actuation system comprises of a clutch master cylinder with integral reservoir. The
master cylinder is connected to the clutch actuation or the slave cylinder by hydraulic
pipe. The travel of the push rod results in linear movement of the release bearing
through a release fork pivoted on a ball in the clutch housing.
The clutch release bearing pushes the diaphragm spring center towards the flywheel.
The diaphragm spring pivots at the fulcrum, relieving the load on the clutch plate.
Steel spring straps riveted to the pressure plate cover pulls the pressure plate away
from the clutch disc. When the clamping load on the clutch plate is relieved it slides
on the splines of the input shaft away from the flywheel thus disengaging the engine
torque from the input shaft & enabling the gears to be changed.

CLUTCH FLUID – LEVEL & LEAK - INSPECT
Concentric Slave Cylinder
CLUTCH FLUID – LEVEL & LEAK - INSPECT

Refer above illustrations –
1. Check for Clutch Fluid Level up ‘Max’ mark on the brake/clutch fluid reservoir.
2. Check for Clutch Fluid leakage and correct fitment at all joints –
Hose connected from reservoir and Clutch master cylinder.
Clutch Master Cylinder inlet and outlet [1].
Clutch Bundy tube to flexible hose joint.
Clutch slave Cylinder inlet banjo [2].

CLUTCH FLUID – REPLACE

Hose from CMC
Bleed Screw
Clutch Master
Cylinder Assy.
Clutch Housing
Slave Cylinder Assembly
*Concentric Slave Cylinder (CSC)
CLUTCH FLUID – REPLACE (System Flush out & refill with fresh fluid)
Refer above illustration –
1. Remove the dust cap of the bleeder screw.
2. If the bleeding operation is done without connecting a tube and in the open air then
the chance of air remaining trapped is high.
3. Connect bleeding tube, to bleeding screw on slave cylinder.
4. Ensure that the other end of the tube is fully immersed in the bottle having clean
clutch fluid.
5. Fill the Reservoir clutch master cylinder up to the top level with recommended clutch
fluid.
6. Operate clutch pedal 3 or 4 times slowly to the full stroke.
7. Holding the clutch in depressed condition rotate the bleed screw by 90 degree and
allow all the air escape in to the container bottle.
8. Repeat the exercise till no air bubbles appears in the bottle.
9. During this operation ensure fluid level in reservoir.
10. Close the bleed screw properly.
11. Remove bleeding tube and place the dust cap on bleed screw.
12. Check the fluid level in container and be top up to the ‘MAX’ level.[1]
Always use recommended fluid and do not mix different brand fluids.
In case fluid reservoir replaced, clutch system needs to bleed.
Clutch system fluid to be flush out and refill with fresh fluid at every
40000kms or once in a year, whichever is earlier
* Scorpio VLX is with CSC, SLE slave cylinder is outside-conventional.


While topping up use the recommended fluid conforming to DOT3 standard /SAE
J1703/IS 8654 specifications only. Avoid mixing different brands.
The clutch fluid is hygroscopic fluids hence tend to collect humidity. The humidity
along with the brake fluid can cause acidic reaction & seizure of the master & slave
cylinders. The clutch fluid should be replaced every 40,000 km or one in a year,
whichever is earlier. The master & clutch cylinder seals to be replace every 50,000
KMs
Unless the cause of a clutch problem is extremely obvious, accurate problem diagnosis
will require a road test to confirm that the problem exists. To find out the actual root
cause of the problem the clutch will have to be dismantled and the failed parts
examined to determine the cause.
During road test, drive the vehicle in normal operating speeds. Shift the gears and
observe the clutch action. If chatter, grab, slip or improper release is experienced,
remove & inspect the parts. However if problem is noise or hard shift then the
problem may not be in clutch only but also the transmission or the driveline.
If the clutch slip is suspected then drive the vehicle in 1st or 2nd gear at the top speed
(corresponding to the gear). Keeping the accelerator fully pressed; slowly apply the
brake- with your left feet. If the engine stalls then the clutch is not slipping.
Clutch Problem Causes –
Fluid contamination is the most frequent cause of clutch malfunction. Oil, water on
the clutch contact surface will cause faulty operation viz. Slip, grab, and judder.
During inspection check if any parts in the clutch are coated with oil or water splash
from road.
Oil contamination indicates a leak at either rear main seal or transmission-input shaft.
The oil leaks from either of these areas will normally coat the housing interior or
clutch cover or flywheel. Heat buildup due to slippage between the clutch plate and
the flywheel or the pressure plate can result into the leaked oil literally getting
baked. Visually this will result in a glazed residue varying from amber to black.
Roads splash contamination will mean that the dirt water is entering the clutch
housing either due to lose bolt or torn rubber boot.
Clutch misalignment –
The clutch component i.e. the clutch plate, flywheel and the pressure plate have to
be aligned with the crankshaft and the transmission input shaft. Misalignment caused

by run outs/ war page will cause clutch to grab judder as well as improper release
(also manifesting as hard gearshift).
Flywheel run out –
The flywheel run out needs to be checked whenever misalignment is suspected.

Flywheel run out should not exceed 0.10 mm.
To measure the run out mount the base of the magnetic dial gauge on the block.
Locate the dial gauge’s needle on the outer surface of the flywheel.
Some of the common reasons for excessive run out are –
Heat warpage.
Improper machining.
Incorrect bolt tightening
Foreign material on crankshaft flange or flywheel.
Improper seating on crankshaft.
Clutch cover & Disc run out –
A warped cover or diaphragm spring will result in clutch grab and / or incomplete
release of clutch plate.
If the clutch alignment tool is not used then the misalignment of the clutch plate can
cause distortion of the cover and also disc damage.
The cover can also get misaligned due to improper tightening of the cover onto the
flywheel. The only way to avoid is that the bolts must be tightened alternatively
(diagonal pattern) and evenly i.e. 2 to 3 thread a time only.

A noisy gearshift operation especially the 1st and 2nd gear can be due to clutch not
getting disengaged completely. To check it, jack up the rear axle. Lift the axle till
both the wheels are rotating freely.
Press the clutch pedal completely and start the engine, the wheels should not be
spinning. Now slowly release the pedal till it has moved about 10 mm, the wheel
should still not be spinning. If some spinning is noticed then it indicates improper lift
of the pressure plate. First check the bleeding and the pedal travel then check for the
pressure plate lift.
Clutch Housing Misalignment –
The clutch housing has to be aligned with the engine so that the input shaft is aligned
with the crankshaft. Absence of this alignment results in clutch noise, incomplete
release of the clutch plate. It can normally be judged by uneven wear of the finger
and pilot bearing. In severe case it can also damage the spline of the input shaft and
clutch hubs well as the clutch splines
Normally the clutch housing misalignment is a result of:

Incorrect seating on the engine/transmission.
Missing alignment dowel holes.
Loose or missing mounting bolt.
Mounting surfaces that are damaged/ not parallel.
To check the clutch housing misalignment bell housing run out will also need to be
checked.
Clutch slippage:
Observation Causes Remedial action

Disc facing worn 1. Normal wear. Replace clutch disc
out. 2. Clutch riding. Replace clutch plate
3. Insufficient diaphragm Replace clutch plate &
spring clamp load. cover assembly.
4. Faulty release Replace , and bleed/

mechanism. Customer to be
5. Vehicle being driven informed.
despite slipping clutch.
6. Bad driving practice of Customer to be
allowing the clutch to informed.
slip far too long.
Clutch disc Leak at :

facing 1. Crankshaft rear end oil Replace seal & disc.
contaminated seal Clean cover assembly.
with oil, grease
or clutch fluid. 2. Leak through the input Replace seal & disc.
shaft Clean cover assembly.

3. Excess amount of grease Apply less grease.

applied to the input shaft Replace clutch disc.
splines Clean cover assembly.
Clutch is running Release bearing carrier Replace bearing /

partially sticky. carrier.
disengaged.
Flywheel height 1. Improperly machined

incorrect. flywheel. Replace flywheel.
2. Excess machining done.
Wrong disc or Use the correct parts Replace the parts after
pressure plate comparison.
used.
Clutch disc/ 1. Improper tightening or Replace the parts and
cover or loosening procedure. tighten as per sequence.
diaphragm spring
warped. 2. Rough handling of clutch Replace the parts, ensure
plate or cover assembly that the rough handling
is avoided
Flywheel side Flywheel surface ,scored and Reduce the scoring and
clutch facing having light notch nicks by sand paper.
surface – torn/ Reduce if scoring deeper.
nicked/ worn
Clutch disc1. Frequent operation under Roughen the flywheel
facing burnt. high loads or hard face with sandpaper.
Excessive glazing acceleration conditions Replace clutch plate &
of the flywheel cover assembly.
& pressure2. Frequent clutch riding by The driver has to be
plate. the driver. alerted to avoid repeat
failure.
Clutch facing Improper storage- clutch Replace.
broken plate dropped prior to
fitting.
Fouling marks on Improper fitment- assembled Rectify
the torsion the wrong way around
damper.
Clutch grab/chatter:

Clutch disc Leak at :
facing 1. Crankshaft rear end oil Replace seal & disc.
contaminated seal. Clean cover assembly.
with oil, grease Replace seal & disc.
or clutch fluid. 2. Leak through the input Clean cover assembly.
shaft. Apply less grease.
3. Excess amount of grease Replace clutch disc.

applied to the input shaft Clean cover assembly.
splines
Clutch disc / 1. Incorrect or substandard Replace disc and cover
pressure plate parts. with the correct parts.
warped. 2. Improper tightening or Replace the parts and
loosening procedure. tighten as per sequence.
Disc facing show
unusual wear 3. Rough handling of clutch Replace the parts, ensure
plate or cover assembly that the rough handling
is avoided.
Partial 1. Clutch pressure plate Replace clutch cover &

engagements of position setting incorrect clutch plate.
clutch disc (One or modified
side worn – 2. Clutch cover, spring or Replace clutch cover &
opposite side release fingers bent or clutch plate.
glazed and distorted due to rough
lightly worn.) handling or improper
assembly.
3. Clutch disc damaged or Replace clutch plate.
distorted.
4. Clutch misalignment. Check alignment and run

out of flywheel disc or
cover.
Replace the clutch plate

& cover assembly (if
required. Correct the
alignment)
No fault found Problem related to Further diagnosis

with clutch suspension or driveline required. Check engine &
components. components. transmission mounting
insulators. U Joint, tyres,
body attaching parts.
Clutch master Piston/ bore damaged or Overhaul the master &
cylinder or slave corroded slave cylinder.
cylinder piston
jammed/
scuffing.
Tangential strap 1. Incorrect driving Advise the customer of
connecting the practice the consequences.
pressure plate to Mostly due to tow
the diaphragm starting in 1st or 2nd gear
cover broken. Or
Incorrect gear selection

Improper clutch release:

Clutch disc New disc not checked before Check the new disc’s run
warped. installation out & replace it.
Clutch plate is 1. Clutch disc hub splines Replace the clutch plate.
binding on the damaged during
input shaft’s installation. Replace input shaft is
splines. severely damaged.
2. Input shaft splines rough or
damaged. Replace the clutch plate.
Replace the input shaft if
3. Corrosion or rust formation the scaling can not be
on splines of disc and input removed.
shaft.
Clutch disc- Vacuum may form in pockets Drill 1/16 inch diameter
facing sticks over rivet head. Occurs as hole through rivets and
to flywheel. clutch cools down after use. scuff sand the clutch disc
facing.
Clutch will not 1. Low fluid in the clutch Top off the fluid and
disengage master cylinder. check for leaks.
properly.
2. Air in the hydraulic system Bleed & refill the system.
Tighten the bolts.
3. Clutch cover loose.
Replace disc.
4. Wrong clutch disc.
Replace the cover
5. Clutch cover diaphragm assembly.
spring bent / warped during
transmission installation.
Fit the clutch plate
6. Clutch disc fitted correctly the hub should
backwards. be facing the pressure
plate side & the flywheel
side mark towards the
flywheel
Bush worn out Vibration / misalignment Fit new bearings & check
/ damaged for misalignments.
Clutch misalignment

Hard gear shift:

Brake fluid 1. Leaks Replace fluid.
less and or 2. Reservoir strainer missing Stop leaks and avoid
contaminated contamination.
Excessive Wrong adjustment or lock nut Adjust

clutch pedal loosening
free plays.
Clutch plate 1. Warpage due to handling or Replace
warpage assembly.
2. Warpage due to
misalignment.

In Car Repairs –
Adjustment of clutch pedal height
Clutch bleeding.
Adjustment of clutch pedal height –
Loosen the lock nut of master

cylinder’s push rod fork.
Slide backs the dust cover.
Rotate the master cylinder push rod

till desired height of pedal is
achieved.

Tighten the lock nut of push rod

fork.
Screw in pedal stopper bolt

completely.
Press pedal fully till the pedal

bottoms on the floor.
Now screw out the pedal stopper

bolt till it touches the pedal lever,
release pedal.
Screw out the bolt further by one
turn. Tighten the locknut.
Refer illustration given below and Recheck pedal height in case vehicle is
equipped with Engine Stop-Star (ESS) system.

Bleeding the clutch –
Remove the dust cap of the bleeder screw.
If the bleeding operation is done

without connecting a tube and in
the open air then the chance of air
remaining trapped is high.
Connect bleeding tube, to bleeding

screw on slave cylinder.
Ensure that the other end of the

tube is fully immersed in the bottle
having clean clutch /brake fluid.
Fill the Reservoir clutch master

cylinder up to the top level with
recommended clutch fluid.
Operate clutch pedal 3 or 4 times

slowly to the full stroke.
Holding the clutch in depressed
condition loosen the bleeding screw
on slave cylinder by ½ to ¾ turn
and allow all the air escape in to
the container bottle.
Repeat the exercise till no air

bubbles appears in the bottle.
During this operation ensure fluid

level in reservoir.
Tighten the bleed screw properly.
Remove bleeding tube and place the

dust cap on bleed screw.
Check the fluid level in container

and need be top up to the ‘max’
level.

Clutch Actuation Mechanism –

The clutch actuation is hydraulic actuation. The clutch pedal actuates a master
cylinder. The hydraulic fluid is transmitted to the slave cylinder through a flexible
pipe.
The clutch actuation mechanism does not have a fork and the pivot ball. The hydraulic
concentric bearing is a unique design and incorporates the slave cylinder and the
release bearing. The bearing is permanently attached to the slave cylinder piston. The
hydraulic lines are permanently attached to the bearing assembly. The hydraulic line
near the slave cylinder is fitted with a quick disconnect coupling.
• Master cylinder overhaul
• Slave cylinder and Concentric bearing Overhaul

Master cylinder overhaul –
Remove the outlet pipe connection.
Remove the clevis pin lock & the

clevis pin.
Remove the clutch push rod fork &

the clutch pedal.
Remove the master cylinder from the

firewall.

1. Pull back the dust cover.
2. Remove circlip.
3. Remove the push rod assembly with retainer washer.
4. Remove the piston assembly by gently tapping the Clutch Master Cylinder body on
a wooden block.
Using a screwdriver, lift the leaf

spring retainer. Remove spring
assembly from plunger.

Take care, while lifting the spring

otherwise the spring and the stem
will fall off.
Compress spring to free valve stem

from eccentrically positioned hole in
the end face of spring retainer. This
will separate spring retainer from
valve stem.
Remove spring, valve spacer and

spring washer from the valve stem.
(While assembling hold the spacer
between fingers such that the valve
stems hangs down vertically. Pull
down the stem downwards as far as
possible. Observe if the valve stem
has moved freely upwards. If
movement is not free replace valve
spacer.)
Remove the valve seal from the

valve stem.
The bore and the plunger should be
checked for scoring, scuffing uneven
wear marks, corrosion and excessive
clearance between plunger & body
Check the condition of dust cover for
cut, deterioration if damaged
replace.
The assembly procedure is the
reverse of the dismantling
procedure.
While fitting the plunger lubricate it
with brake fluid.
The concentric bearing and the slave cylinder are serviced as an assembly only. It
cannot be overhauled. The release-bearing portion of the assembly is permanently
attached to the piston. The only time the concentric bearing should be replaced is
when it is either leaking or obviously damaged. The bearing should not be changed
just because the clutch disc or the pressure plate assembly is being replaced. Replace
the bearing assembly only when it has failed.

Replacing the Clutch Slave Cylinder –

To replace the Concentric Clutch Slave Cylinder; the transmission needs to be
removed.
For the removal of transmission please refer to ‘Clutch Overhaul’ section in this
manual.
Dismantling -
1. Loosen & remove the 3 Nos. mounting bolts of the Concentric Slave cylinder.
Note – The mounting bolts are ‘Torx’ type. Care should be taken to use the
proper tools to avoid any damage to the mounting bolts head.
2. Separate the Bleeder – CSC & Concentric Slave Cylinder by removing the Quick
Release Coupling.
Assembly –
1. While fitting the new Concentric Slave Cylinder also separate the Bleeder – CSC
& the Slave Cylinder.
2. Fit the Slave Cylinder in the Transmission & tighten the mounting bolts. Now
connect the Bleeder – CSC to Slave Cylinder.
3. Fit the transmission back on the vehicle.
4. Connect the hydraulic pipe from CMC to CSC.
5. Bleed the System.
Note – While assembling, hand tighten the mounting bolts opposite to each other &
torque tighten to the specified torque. Failing to do this can lead to adverse effect on
release bearing life.

Clutch overhaul –
Block the front wheels, so that the
vehicle does not move forward.
Disconnect the negative cable of

the battery.
Remove the electrical connections

to the starter motor.
Remove the starter motor by
removing the mounting bolts.
Remove the Rear (Differential) End

Propeller Shaft bolts – 4 Nos.
Carefully pull the Propeller Shaft

out from the transmission.
Note – After the propeller shaft

yoke is pulled, a bit of oil is
expected to come out as the yoke
itself is the guide for the oil seal.
Disconnect the speed sensor connection.

Remove the electrical connection for the reverse lamp switch.
Support the engine suitably at rear end.

Remove the gearshift lever grommet.
Remove the gear shift lever upper

half.
Support the gearbox using a suitable stand.
Remove the gearbox mounting insulators.
Remove the clutch housing fastening screws to the engine.

Remove the hydraulic pipe

connecting the Clutch Master
Cylinder to Clutch Slave Cylinder.
Collect the Hydraulic Fluid. Do not
allow the fluid to fall on painted
surface.
Move the gearbox away from the engine.
If the cover assembly may be reused then loosen the cover bolts evenly and in
tightening sequence to relive the spring tension equally.
The bolts should be loosened few threads at a time – so that the warping is
avoided.
If the cover assembly is not going to be reused then this precaution is not
essential.
If the pilot bearing has to be removed then the flywheel has to be removed and
then the bearing removed using the MST no 543.
(To install the bearing MST no 544 has to be used.)
During assembly use the MST 546 to align the clutch plate while the cover is
being tightened.
The assembly sequence is the reverse of the dismantling (except the

precautions mentioned.)

Inspection:
All the components should be inspected for wear. Any components, which are beyond
the wear limits, have to be replaced.
Over & above the wear limits: The following points also need to be ensured.
Flywheel run out --
The flywheel run out needs to be checked whenever misalignment is suspected.

Flywheel run out should not exceed than 0.10 mm
To measure the run out; mount the base of the magnetic dial gauge on the block.
Locate the dial gauge’s needle on the outer surface of the flywheel.
Some of the common reasons for excessive run out are:

Heat warpage.
Improper machining.
Incorrect bolt tightening
Foreign material on crankshaft flange or flywheel.
Improper seating on crankshaft.
If the flywheel has been removed for resurfacing or replacing the pilot bearing then
while fitting it back ensure that:
No dirt and grease present on the mounting face (it can cause cocking & run out)
The flywheel bolts have been replaced.
Torque tightened as per sequence and also the angular tightening as per the
specification is done.
Absence of any of these requirements may result in bolt loosening causing flywheel
run out.
Clutch cover & Disc run out -
Check the clutch disc run out before fitting. It should be within the specifications. If it
is more than the specification- use a different clutch plate.
A warped cover or diaphragm spring will result in clutch grab and / or incomplete
release of clutch plate.
If the clutch alignment tool is not used then the misalignment of the clutch plate can
cause distortion of the cover and also disc damage.

The cover can also get misaligned due to improper tightening of the cover onto the
flywheel. The only way to avoid is that the bolts must be tightened alternatively
(diagonal pattern) and evenly i.e. 2 to 3 thread a time only.
Clutch Housing Misalignment –
The clutch housing has to be aligned with the engine so that the input shaft is aligned
with the crankshaft. Absence of this alignment results in clutch noise, incomplete
release of the clutch plate. It can normally be judged by uneven wear of the finger
and pilot bearing. In severe case it can also damage the spline of the input shaft and
clutch hubs well as the clutch splines
Normally the clutch housing misalignment is a result of:

Incorrect seating on the engine/transmission.
Missing alignment dowel holes.
Loose or missing mounting bolt.
Mounting surfaces that are damaged/ not parallel.
Before fitting the clutch housing ensure that no dirt, debris or foreign parts are
trapped between the mating surface of the transmission & the clutch housing.
Flywheel -
If the flywheel is found to be having minor scoring then it can be resurfaced. However
the maximum allowed cut is 0.076 mm. If scoring is deeper than 0.0076 than the
flywheel has to be changed. (Excessive material removal will cause the flywheel to
either crack/ warpage after installation/ drop in clamping load and will affect the
proper clutch release as the travel of release bearing gets affected.)
If the flywheel has been removed for resurfacing or replacing the pilot bearing then
while fitting it back ensure that:
No dirt and grease present on the mounting face (it can cause cocking & run out)
The flywheel bolts have been replaced.
Torque tightened as per sequence and also the angular tightening as per the
specification is done.
Absence of any of these requirements may result in bolt loosening causing flywheel
run out.
Starter ring replacement: Unless the provision of properly heating & fitting is
available. It is not recommended to replace the starter ring. It is worthwhile to
replace the ring along with the flywheel.

If the starter ring is only going to be replaced then:
• Do not use a gas flame to cut. It can cause local overheating of flywheel.
• The ring gear has to be heated in an oven to get uniform expansion. (Nearly 191°C)
• Does not use flame to heat the ring – it can cause annealing of the ring teeth and
premature failure.

Specifications & Wear Limits –
Figure
Description Value
Clutch control type- Hydraulic- self
adjusting
Pressure plate Diaphragm
Clutch Disc
Outer Dia (mm) 240±1
Inner Dia ( mm) 160± 1
Disc Thickness ( mm) 8.8 mm ( free)
Clutch disc run out 0.8 mm Max
Minimum thickness from 0.4 mm

outer face to rivet head.
Clutch pedal Suspended Type
Clutch pedal Ratio 7.4

Figure
Description Value
Clutch Pedal Height above

carpet thickness of 10
mm.
Total Pedal Travel 160 mm

90% Pedal Travel 144 mm.
Clutch pedal free play 5 to 6 mm

(including push rod play at
pedal top)
Master Cylinder 19.05 mm

Bore diameter
Clearance between 0.13 mm

The piston & the bore
( Both cylinders)

Figure
Description Value
Flywheel Standard Service

Limit
Flatness ≤ 0.05
Run out 0.1
≤ 0.05
0.1
Flywheel 35±0.13
Width from Mounting face
to clutch face
Clutch release point from 25 mm from Bottom

pedal full stroke end position
position
Pressure plate finger 47.6 ± 1.0 mm

height ( mm)
Diaphragm spring tip non 0.8 mm ( finger to

alignment.( Max) finger)
Diaphragm spring finger Max depth 0.5 mm

wear Max width 5 mm

Location Torque Nm ( lb-ft)
Pressure plate bolts 32.5 ± 2.5 Nm (24 ± 2 Lb-ft)

Clutch pedal position Switch lock
25 Nm (18 Lb-ft)
nut
Clutch master cylinder nut 25 Nm (18 Lb-ft)
Concentric Slave Cylinder bolts (
10Nm ( 7 Lb-ft)
CSC)
Flywheel Bolts 50 Nm + 60° ( 36.80 Lb-ft + 60°)
Clutch pedal pivot bolt and nut 27.5 ± 2.5 Nm ( 20 ± 2 Lb-ft)

Lubricant –
Specification: DOT3 standard /SAE J1703/IS 8654
Hindustan Petroleum: HP Super Duty Brake Fluid
Castrol/ Girling Brake Fluid.
Indian Oil: Servo Brake fluid Super HD

List of the MST –
Description/ Part No. / Sketch Usage View

Master clutch plate assembly- diesel
( aligner)
MST 546
Extractor Flywheel bearing
MST 543
Drift Flywheel bearing

MST 544

ESS (ENGINE STOP-START SYSTEM) -

System Description:
The following steps illustrate how the system functions.

• Vehicle has come to halt due to traffic signal / jam, is in neutral gear and the clutch
pedal is fully released.
• The engine will shut down automatically after 2 seconds. Immediately after
depressing
the clutch pedal fully, the indicator - - in the cluster will blink (till the engine stops)
indicating that the engine is going to stop shortly.
• Once the engine stops, the indicator- - will glow continuously in your instrument
cluster indicating that the engine has been stopped by the Micro Hybrid system.
• Once the Signal turns green, press the clutch pedal fully & engine starts
immediately.
• The indicator in the cluster goes off indicating that engine has started again & you
are ready to drive on with the vehicle.
Note:
To activate the micro hybrid system, ensure the switch located in the left side of the
instrument panel is in pressed condition.
Note:
Do not attempt to swap EMS ECU with that of any other vehicle for the vehicle is
enabled with Transponder based Immobilizer and hence vehicle will get immobilized.
Also, if a lower version dataset (Micro Hybrid uses V76) is used on Micro Hybrid
enabled vehicles will result in Starter Motor engaged continuously with Ignition ON.

The following inputs are required for Start Stop system to function
1. Mode selection Switch condition
2. Bonnet switch condition
3. Gear box position
4. Clutch pedal switch position (10% & 90% switch)
5. Accelerator pedal input
6. Engine speed
7. Vehicle speed
8. Battery Condition
9. Fuel temperature
10. Coolant temperature
The Engine will automatically stop if all the below conditions are met
1) Mode Selection Switch in ON condition

i) For activating/deactivating the Start Stop function
2) Vehicle speed shall cross minimum of 2km/h

i) For confirming the driving cycle start.
3) Engine Speed in Idling Range

i) For confirming vehicle stand still condition
ii) Engine idle speed: 800rpm
4) Vehicle Speed is zero

i) For confirming the vehicle stand still condition.
5) Gear Box is in Neutral

i) For confirming vehicle neutral condition.
6) Battery Condition Healthy

i) To ensure sufficient power for next starting cycle.
7) Accelerator Pedal Not Pressed

i) For confirming vehicle stand still condition.
8) Bonnet remains closed

i) For working safely in the engine compartment when the vehicle in service.
9) Clutch pedal fully released

i) For confirming
Once all above conditions are satisfied, vehicle will automatically stop in two seconds.
Whenever the system is going to turn off the engine, the start stop lamp in the cluster
will blink. If the driver wishes to avoid stopping of the engine after the blink, a press
of clutch or accelerator pedal will help to reset the timing. Once the engine is stopped
by the start stop mode, start stop lamp in the cluster will be continuously ON.
The system will not stop the engine, when the battery charge goes below a certain
threshold value so as to preserve the battery.

The Engine will start automatically once the clutch pedal is fully pressed with
below mentioned conditions -
1. Mode Selection Switch in ON condition

2. Engine Speed is zero
3. Vehicle Speed is zero
4. Gear Box in Neutral
5. Bonnet remains Closed
6. Clutch Pedal Pressed fully
S. No. P-Code Description Parts to be Checked

1 P1704 Gear Neutral Signal is not 1. GNS
plausible
2 P168E Gear Neutral Signal is not 1. GNS
plausible in Stand Still condition 2. Clutch 10% & 90%
switches
Once the vehicle gets started, start stop lamp in the cluster will automatically goes
off.
Error codes
This codes are only for reference – to view the code and rectification procedure,
refer the EMS Diagnostic Manual
3 P170D Starter power stage Short circuit to Battery

4 P1710 Starter power stage Excess Temperature
5 P1712 GNS Relay No Load
6 P1714 GNS Relay Sticking
7 P170A Redundant Clutch Switch is not Plausible
8 P1AE9 Stop lamp power stage Short circuit to Battery
9 P1AEA Stop lamp power stage Short circuit to Ground.
10 P1AEB Stop lamp power stage No Load
11 P1AEC Stop lamp power stage Excess Temperature
12 P1715 T50 always pressed
Battery Not Healthy:
1. Attempt to re-charge the battery and re-use

2. If recharging the battery is not successful replace the battery.
Note: Only 72Ah battery to be used
Starter motor failure:
1. Check the ignition key for any struck. If there is a problem in the key replace
ignition key and change the starter motor
2. Check for starter pinion damage if pinion damage is observed then replace the over
running clutch assy.

NOTE: Starter motor used is different from vehicles which do not have Engine Start
Stop since starter is subjected to more number of cranks. Only S78 Starter to be used
for ESS application.

Clutch Switch failure:
Clutch switch replacement:

Loosen the nut and remove the 90% clutch switch. Replace with new clutch switch.
Adjust the switch for 90% clutch position. It can be done by checking the continuity in
the switch contacts by pressing the clutch pedal for 90% of its travel. 90% clutch
switch is NC switch. At 90% clutch travel, there should not be continuity between the
contacts.
And the same procedure can be used for adjusting the clutch switch.
Note: Refer annexure for 90% clutch switch fitment / adjustment. GNS:

The gap between sensor and magnet shall be 6±1mm. This gap has to be maintained
within the specification to ensure the proper function of gear neutral sensor.
• Gear Neutral Switch (GNS) fitment: Refer illustrations below.
GNS Magnet and Hall Element fitment on Gear Lever

• 90% CLUTCH SWITCH FITMENT / ADJUSTMENT PROCEDURE:

Clutch Pedal Assembly -
CAM arrangement on ESS Cam bracket -

Clutch Pedal – Check for proper functioning

Care of the system –

If a vehicle uses non standard or more then one floor mat. It may reduce the pedal
travel which will lead to malfunction of ESS switch. Hence it is strictly
recommended to have floor mat as recommended by M&M.
It is recommended to check the functionality of ESS switch once in every 5000 Kms of
vehicle run.

NGT 530R-2WD
Contents
Description
Care of the transmission
Service Diagnosis
Dismantling
Cleaning & Inspection
Tightening Torque
Special Tools
Specifications

Description –
It is a 5-speed gearbox. The 1st & 2nd gear is having double cone type synchronizer
while the 3rd, 4th & 5th are having strut type synchronization. The reverse gear is
sliding mesh.
The gear selection is by a direct shift lever operating a 3-rail system. The accidental
operation of two gears is avoided by an interlocking mechanism. To avoid vibrations
passing on to the shift lever; the shift lever is two-piece with rubber isolation provided
on to the top half.
The gearbox housing is 3 piece aluminum with an intermediate plate. A skid plate
protects the bottom of the gearbox. The Gearbox is mounted directly on the flywheel
through the integral clutch housing and supported at rear on the cross member. The
gearbox also has a gear neutral switch (GNS) which give signal to ECU when vehicle is
in neutral gear position.

Gear Neutral Switch (GNS) position on TM retainer plate -
GNS Magnet and Hall Element fitment on Gear

L

Care of the transmission –

The lubricant level should be checked every 10000 KMs. with the vehicle un laden and
on level ground. The lubricant level should be at the lower edge of the filler plug. Use
lubricant meeting oils specification of GL 4 & viscosity 80W90.The brand names have
been specified in the Operators Manual.
The lubricant should be changed at 5000 KMs, then at 40000 KMs and after that every
40000 KMs.
Service Diagnosis –
A low transmission lubricant level is generally the result of a leak, inadequate

lubricant fill, or an incorrect lubricant level check.
Leaks can occur at the mating surface of the gear case, intermediate plate and
adapter or extension housing or from the front/rear seals. A suspected leak could also
be result of an overfill condition.
Leaks at the rear of the extension or adapter housing will be from the housing oil seal.
Leaks at component mating surface will probably be the result of inadequate sealer,
gaps in sealer, incorrect bolt tightening, or the use of a non-recommended sealer.
A leak at the front of the transmission will be from either the front bearing retainer or
retainer seal. Lubricant may be seen dripping from the clutch housing after extended
operation. If the leak is severe, it may also contaminate the clutch disc causing slip,
grab and chatter.
A correct lubricant level check can be made only when the vehicle is level, use a two
post or a four post hoist to ensure this. Also allow the lubricant to settle for a minute
or so before checking. These recommendations will ensure that an accurate check and
avoid an under fill or overfill conditions.

Hard Shifting –
Hard shifting is usually caused by low lubricant level, improper or contaminated

lubricants, component damage, and incorrect clutch adjustment or by a damaged
clutch pressure plate or disc. Substantial lubricant leak can result in gear, shift rail,
synchro and bearing damage. If a leak goes undetected for an extended period the
first indications of a problem are usually hard shifting and noise. Incorrect or
contaminated lubricants can also contribute to hard shifting.
The consequence of using non-recommended lubricants is noise, excessive wear,
internal bind and hard shifting.
Improper clutch release is one of the most frequent causes of hard shifting. Incorrect
adjustment of a worn damaged pressure plate or disc can cause incorrect release. If
the clutch problem is advanced then it can result in gear clash during shifts.
Incomplete travel of the clutch pedal due to restrictions at the end of stroke
(upturned carpet, extra carpet or cover or bend clutch linkage can also cause
improper clutch release and hard shift.)
Worn or damaged synchro rings can cause gear clash when shifting any forward gear.
In some new or rebuilt transmissions, new synchro rings may tend to stick slightly
causing hard or noisy shifts. In most conditions this will decline as the rings wear in.
Transmission Noise –
Most manual transmissions make some noise during normal operation. Rotating gears
can generate slight whine that may only be audible at extreme speeds.
Severe obviously audible transmission noise is generally the result of a lubricant

problem. Insufficient, improper or contaminated lubricant can promote rapid wear of
gears, synchros, shift rail, forks and bearing’s. The overheating caused by a lubricant
problem can also lead to gear breakage.

Summarizing the common faults and their cause:

Problem Possible Causes Correction
Low oil level Top up oil.

Gear Whine Worn teeth gears Replace gears
Worn bearings Replace bearings.
Knocking or Chipped gear teeth Replace gears.

ticking Foreign matter inside Remove the foreign matter
transmission. and locate how the foreign
matter came inside e.g.
missing breather and rectify
that also to avoid recurrence.
Defective bearings. Replace the bearings.
Jumping out of Defective detent springs. Replace the detent springs.

gear Worn out grooves in shift Replace the shift rails.
rail.
Shaft misalignment. Replace the gears
Worn dog teeth in gear Replace the fork/ pads
Worn out fork/ fork pads Replace the body
Worn out synchronizer
body.
Unable to Clutch defective Rectify the clutch/

select gear clutch withdrawal
mechanism
Worn out selector Rectify the gear
mechanism selector mechanism
Hard gear Clutch defective Rectify the clutch/

shifting clutch withdrawal
mechanism
Improper or contaminated Replace the lubricant with
lubricants the specified lubricant.

Replacement of output shaft seal –
Remove the propeller shaft from the Rear (Differential) end & carefully pull the
propeller shaft out from the transmission
Tap the dust cover out with the help of
a mallet.
Remove the oil seal using a blunt edge
screw driver or any other suitable tool.
Note - Care must be taken not to
damage the housing while removing the
oil seal.
Fit the new oil seal.
The lip of the oil seal & the aluminum

housing should be protected against any
damage.
Removal of the transmission from the Vehicle –
Remove the top lever.
Remove the Rear (Differential) End Propeller Shaft bolts – 4 Nos.
Carefully pull the Propeller Shaft out from the transmission.

Note – After the propeller shaft yoke is pulled, a bit of oil is expected to come
out as the yoke itself is the guide for the oil seal.
Drain the transmission oil.
Loosen & remove the starter motor.
Remove the hydraulic pipe connecting the CMC to Clutch Slave Cylinder.
Loosen & remove the Clutch Housing fastening bolts.
Disconnect the speed sensor connection.
Disconnect the reverse lamp switch connections.
Loosen the cross member bolts & Remove the transmission.

Removal of Gears Neutral Switch-
1. Remove the floor console.

2. Remove gear gaiter bezel assembly.
3. Remove shift lever grommet.
4. Remove spring retention plate pivot.
5. Remove neutral sensor.
6. Remove button lever.
7. Remove sensor mounted on gear bottom lever.
Note: Unless otherwise specified the assembly procedure / guidelines is

the reverse of the disassembly procedure.

Dismantling:
Gear Neutral Switch fitted on Lever
Removal Steps –
1. Remove the lock clip & remove the grommet.

2. Remove biasing cover plate bolts & springs. – 4 nos. (Check Point A)
3. Remove Lever retention bolts – 3 nos. Remove GNS socket and Gear Neutral
Switch mounted on plate – 4 bolts.
4. Put the selector mechanism in neutral & remove lever assembly along with
nylon bush.

5. Remove the Speedo adaptor.

6. Loosen & remove the bolts fastening the Front housing – Intermediate plate &
the Rear housing.
7. Remove the rear housing by tapping with the help of a mallet.

8. Remove the circlip in front of the 5th driven gear.
9. Remove the bearing inner race, shim, bevel gear on the 5th – Reverse sub
shaft.
10. Remove 5th driving gear, synchro brass ring & the needle bearing.
11. Remove the roller bearing on the main shaft using MST.
12. Remove the 5th driven gear using MST. [SKF TMMP3/230 (puller) & TMMH 100 (for
attachment]

13. Loosen & remove the reverse switch.

14. Pull out the gear train from the front housing with intermediate plate.
15. Separate the Main drive gear from the main shaft.

16. Loosen & remove the detent, ball & spring from the intermediate plate.
17. Remove the 5th – reverse rail fork & remove the 5th – reverse rail & fork
assembly, idler gear, reverse sub shaft & synchro hub assembly.
18. Separate the Counter shaft from the intermediate plate.
19. Remove the 3rd – 4th shift rail split pin & remove 3rd – 4th shift rail & selector
fork & plunger.
20. Remove 1st – 2nd shift rail split pin & remove the shift rail &fork.
21. Loosen & remove the nut in front of the reverse driven gear & remove the
reverse driven gear from the main shaft.
22. Separate the intermediate plate from the main shaft.
23. Remove the main shaft pilot (small bearing towards clutch housing side)
bearing.
24. Remove the circlip & Belleville washer.
25. Remove the 3rd – 4th synchro hub assembly, synchro brass ring & the 3rd gear.
Separate the 3rd gear needle bearing.
26. Remove the taper roller bearing from the other end. Separate the 1st gear
shim, 1st gear needle bearing, double cone synchro assembly, 2nd gear & the
2nd gear needle bearing.

Dismantling of Double Cone Synchro Assembly –

The Double cone synchro which is used in this transmission assembly is serviced as a
unit. If dismantled the assembly procedure is as below –
Place hub on the plain surface and install sleeve on to the hub as shown in the
picture. Please ensure big groove comes exactly in center of the hub slot.
Place 3 nos. struts at each slot of the hub. Push struts against sleeve and slid in
the grove. Note: Be careful, struts should not jump out of ring, causes injury.

Place outer ring on the hub by engaging ring’s projections in to hub pockets.
Place intermediate ring as shown in the picture, three tangs should face the
grooves on the hub.

Place inner ring by engaging tangs with the pocket of outer ring.
For reference: marking on the inner ring should come exactly in center of
groove on the hub.
Please ensure that inner ring is

seated properly in the Pocket of
outer ring. Intermediate ring and
inner ring should be almost at one
level.
Place 1st gear by engaging

intermediate ring’s tang with the
three cuts on the dog plate of gear.
Please ensure other synchronizer
assembly remains in the same
position.
Invert the above whole assembly

and put on to the Gear box shaft.
Put outer ring, intermediate ring, inner ring and 2nd gear as described above
on the other side.

Check Points –
A)
Remove the speedometer drive.
Failure to do may result in damage

to bearing/ housing.
B)
Please note the fitment of the balls
& the interlock pins.
It is recommended that while
assembly lightly smears the pin &
balls with grease.
This will avoid the ball or the pin
falling down while assembly.
Springs towards 1st / 2nd gear

position is softer than 5th / reverse
position
Cleaning & Inspection –
Clean the transmission parts in solvent.

Dry the housing gear mechanisms & shafts with compressed air.
Do not use the compressed air to clean / dry the bearings. It can cause damage
to raceways and rollers.

Description Torque Nm
Plug - Shift Rail Poppet Spring 12.5 ± 2.5 Nm (9 ± 2 lb – ft )
30 ± 5 Nm (22 ± 4 lb – ft )
Bolt / Nut – Clutch Hsg. To Main
Hsg.
Flange Bolt – Front, Intermediate 35 ± 5 Nm (26 ± 4 lb – ft )

&
Rear Hsg.
Drain plug 27.5 ± 2.5 Nm (20 ±2 lb– ft )
Filler plug 27.5 ± 2.5 Nm (20 ± 2 lb – ft )
Reverse light switch 27.5 ± 2.5 Nm (20 ± 2 lb – ft )
Bolt - Idler Shaft 43 ± 7 Nm ( 32 ± 3 lb – ft )
Bolt – Bearing Retainer Plate 31 ± 4 Nm ( 23 ± 3 lb – ft )
Lever Retention Bolt 24 ± 4 Nm ( 18 ± 3 lb – ft )

Speedometer Sleeve 35 ± 5 Nm (26 ± 5 lb – ft )

Special Tools –
Description/ Part No./ Sketch Usage View

Dolly to press outer race of Counter
Shaft Brg. in Intermediate Plate
0703AD2720H007
Dolly to press outer race of MD Gear

Brg. in Ft. Hsg.
070 AD2720H008
Dolly for pressing oil seal in Rear

Hsg.
0703AD2720H002

Dolly for pressing Outer Race of

Countershaft Bearing
0703AD2720H005
Dolly fir pressing Outer Race of

Output shaft Bearing in
Intermediate Plate
0703AD2720H006

Specifications –

Type Mechanical
Description NGT 530 R
Gears 5 Forward and one reverse

gear
Gear shift Direct shift with

rubberized
lever
Gears Helical- toothed
Double Cone type

synchronizer on 1st – 2nd ,
Block ring 3rd-4th pin type
Gear Engagement on 5th gear.
Gear Ratio
1st 3.778
2nd 2.087
3rd 1.379
4th 0.789
5th 3.524
Reverse
Oil grade/ quantity 80 W90 SYNCHRO
Oil Capacity: 1.8 liters.

Counter shaft One ball bearing & one

bearing Cylindrical roller.
Input Torque 30 Kg-m

capacity
Weight 45 Kg
Play Limit (mm) Service

Limit (mm)
1st 0.175 0.375
2nd 0.175 0.375
3rd 0.175 0.375
4th 0.175 0.375
5th 0.18 0.3
Fork to groove 0.6 to 1.2

clearances

Sealants –
Sr No. Location Sealant / Thread Applicability

Locks NGT530 R –2 WD
1 Ft. Hsg. &
Intermediate Plate Loctite 5699
2 Intermediate Loctite 5699
Plate & Rear Hsg
3 Clutch Hsg. & Frt. Loctite 5699
Hsg.
4 Output shaft Loctite – 24185
Locknut Optional – ANR 138
Optional – Loctite 242
5 Breather Loctite 648
6 Pivot & Rear Hsg. Rhodorseal

Optional – CAF -33
Pidiseal – 3P
7 Speedo Sleeve & Pedilite 171
Rear Hsg.
8 Drain Plug Threads Pedilite 171
9 Filler Plug Threads Pedilite 171

10 Reverse light Pedilite 171

switch Threads Optional – Loctite 577

NGT 530R-4WD
Contents
Description
Care of the transmission
Service Diagnosis
Dismantling
Tightening Torque
Special Tools
Specifications

Description –
It is a 5-speed gearbox. The 1st & 2nd gear is having double cone type synchronizer
while the 3rd, 4th & 5th are having strut type synchronization. The reverse gear is
sliding mesh.
The gear selection is by a direct shift lever operating a 3-rail system. The accidental
operation of two gears is avoided by an interlocking mechanism. To avoid vibrations
passing on to the shift lever; the shift lever is two-piece with rubber isolation provided
on to the top half.
The gearbox housing is 3 piece aluminum with an intermediate plate. A skid plate
protects the bottom of the gearbox. The Gearbox is mounted directly on the flywheel
through the integral clutch housing and supported at rear on the cross member. The
gearbox also has a gear neutral switch (GNS) which give signal to ECU when vehicle is
in neutral gear position.

Gear Neutral Switch (GNS) position on TM retainer plate -

L

Care of the transmission –

The lubricant level should be checked every 10000 KMs. with the vehicle un laden and
on level ground. The lubricant level should be at the lower edge of the filler plug. Use
lubricant meeting oils specification of GL 4 & viscosity 80W90.The brand names have
been specified in the Operators Manual.
The lubricant should be changed at 5000 KMs, then at 40000 KMs and after that every
40000 KMs.
Service Diagnosis –
A low transmission lubricant level is generally the result of a leak, inadequate

lubricant fill, or an incorrect lubricant level check.
Leaks can occur at the mating surface of the gear case, intermediate plate and
adapter or extension housing or from the front/rear seals. A suspected leak could also
be result of an overfill condition.
Leaks at the rear of the extension or adapter housing will be from the housing oil seal.
Leaks at component mating surface will probably be the result of inadequate sealer,
gaps in sealer, incorrect bolt tightening, or the use of a non-recommended sealer.
A leak at the front of the transmission will be from either the front bearing retainer or
retainer seal. Lubricant may be seen dripping from the clutch housing after extended
operation. If the leak is severe, it may also contaminate the clutch disc causing slip,
grab and chatter.
A correct lubricant level check can be made only when the vehicle is level, use a two
post or a four post hoist to ensure this. Also allow the lubricant to settle for a minute
or so before checking. These recommendations will ensure that an accurate check and
avoid an under fill or overfill conditions.

Hard Shifting –
Hard shifting is usually caused by low lubricant level, improper or contaminated

lubricants, component damage, and incorrect clutch adjustment or by a damaged
clutch pressure plate or disc. Substantial lubricant leak can result in gear, shift rail,
synchro and bearing damage. If a leak goes undetected for an extended period the
first indications of a problem are usually hard shifting and noise. Incorrect or
contaminated lubricants can also contribute to hard shifting.
The consequence of using non-recommended lubricants is noise, excessive wear,
internal bind and hard shifting.
Improper clutch release is one of the most frequent causes of hard shifting. Incorrect
adjustment of a worn damaged pressure plate or disc can cause incorrect release. If
the clutch problem is advanced then it can result in gear clash during shifts.
Incomplete travel of the clutch pedal due to restrictions at the end of stroke
(upturned carpet, extra carpet or cover or bend clutch linkage can also cause
improper clutch release and hard shift.)
Worn or damaged synchro rings can cause gear clash when shifting any forward gear.
In some new or rebuilt transmissions, new synchro rings may tend to stick slightly
causing hard or noisy shifts. In most conditions this will decline as the rings wear in.
Transmission Noise –
Most manual transmissions make some noise during normal operation. Rotating gears
can generate slight whine that may only be audible at extreme speeds.
Severe obviously audible transmission noise is generally the result of a lubricant

problem. Insufficient, improper or contaminated lubricant can promote rapid wear of
gears, synchros, shift rail, forks and bearing’s. The overheating caused by a lubricant
problem can also lead to gear breakage.

Summarizing the common faults and their cause:

Problem Possible Causes Correction
Low oil level Top up oil.

Gear Whine Worn teeth gears Replace gears
Worn bearings Replace bearings.
Knocking or Chipped gear teeth Replace gears.

ticking Foreign matter inside Remove the foreign matter
transmission. and locate how the foreign
matter came inside e.g.
missing breather and rectify
that also to avoid recurrence.
Defective bearings. Replace the bearings.
Jumping out of Defective detent springs. Replace the detent springs.

gear Worn out grooves in shift Replace the shift rails.
rail.
Shaft misalignment. Replace the gears
Worn dog teeth in gear Replace the fork/ pads
Worn out fork/ fork pads Replace the body
Worn out synchronizer
body.
Unable to Clutch defective Rectify the clutch/

select gear clutch withdrawal
mechanism
Worn out selector Rectify the gear
mechanism selector mechanism
Hard gear Clutch defective Rectify the clutch/

shifting clutch withdrawal
mechanism
Improper or contaminated Replace the lubricant with
lubricants the specified lubricant.

Replacement of output shaft seal –
Remove the propeller shaft from the Rear (Differential) end & carefully pull the
propeller shaft out from the transfer case.
Remove the oil seal using a blunt edge screw driver or any other suitable tool.
Note - Care must be taken not to damage the housing while removing the oil
seal.
Fit the new oil seal.
The lip of the oil seal & the aluminum housing should be protected against any
damage.
Removal of the transmission from the Vehicle –
Remove the top lever.
Drain the transmission oil.
Loosen & remove the starter motor.
Remove the hydraulic pipe connecting the CMC to Clutch Slave Cylinder.
Loosen & remove the Clutch Housing fastening bolts.
Disconnect the reverse lamp switch connections.
Loosen the cross member bolts & Remove the transmission

Removal of Gears Neutral Switch-
1. Remove the floor console.

2. Remove gear gaiter bezel assembly.
3. Remove shift lever grommet.
4. Remove spring retention plate pivot.
5. Remove neutral sensor.
6. Remove button lever.
7. Remove sensor mounted on gear bottom lever.
Note: Unless otherwise specified the assembly procedure / guidelines is


Dismantling:
Gear Neutral Switch fitted on Lever
Removal Steps –
1. Remove the lock clip & remove the grommet.

2. Remove biasing cover plate bolts & springs. – 4 nos. (Check Point A)
3. Remove Lever retention bolts – 3 nos. Remove GNS socket and Gear Neutral
Switch mounted on plate – 4 bolts.
4. Put the selector mechanism in neutral & remove lever assembly along with
nylon bush.

5. Loosen & remove the bolts fastening the Front housing – Intermediate plate &
the Rear housing.
6. Remove the rear housing by tapping with the help of a mallet.
7. Remove the circlip in front of the 5th driven gear.

8. Remove the 5th driven gear using MST.
9. Remove 5th driving gear, synchro brass ring & the needle bearing.

10. Loosen & remove the reverse switch.

11. Pull out the gear train from the front housing with intermediate plate.
12. Separate the Main drive gear from the main shaft.

13. Loosen & remove the detent, ball & spring from the intermediate plate.
14. Remove the 5th – reverse rail fork & remove the 5th – reverse rail & fork
assembly, idler gear, reverse sub shaft & synchro hub assembly.
15. Separate the Counter shaft from the intermediate plate.
16. Remove the 3rd – 4th shift rail split pin & remove 3rd – 4th shift rail & selector
fork & plunger.
17. Remove 1st – 2nd shift rail split pin & remove the shift rail &fork.
18. Loosen & remove the nut in front of the reverse driven gear & remove the
reverse driven gear from the main shaft.
19. Separate the intermediate plate from the main shaft.
20. Remove the main shaft pilot (small bearing towards clutch housing side)
bearing.
21. Remove the circlip & Belleville washer.
22. Remove the 3rd – 4th synchro hub assembly, synchro brass ring & the 3rd gear.
Separate the 3rd gear needle bearing.
23. Remove the taper roller bearing from the other end. Separate the 1st gear
shim, 1st gear needle bearing, double cone synchro assembly, 2nd gear & the
2nd gear needle bearing.

Dismantling of Double Cone Synchro Assembly –

The Double cone synchro which is used in this transmission assembly is serviced as a
unit. If dismantled the assembly procedure is as below –
Place hub on the plain surface and install sleeve on to the hub as shown in the
picture. Please ensure big groove comes exactly in center of the hub slot.
Place 3 nos. struts at each slot of the hub. Push struts against sleeve and slid in
the grove. Note: Be careful, struts should not jump out of ring, causes injury.

Place outer ring on the hub by engaging ring’s projections in to hub pockets.
Place intermediate ring as shown in the picture, three tangs should face the
grooves on the hub.

Place inner ring by engaging tangs with the pocket of outer ring.
For reference: marking on the inner ring should come exactly in center of
groove on the hub.
Please ensure that inner ring is

seated properly in the Pocket of
outer ring. Intermediate ring and
inner ring should be almost at one
level.
Place 1st gear by engaging

intermediate ring’s tang with the
three cuts on the dog plate of gear.
Please ensure other synchronizer
assembly remains in the same
position.
Invert the above whole assembly

and put on to the Gear box shaft.
Put outer ring, intermediate ring, inner ring and 2nd gear as described above
on the other side.

Check Points –
Please note the fitment of the balls
& the interlock pins.
It is recommended that while
assembly lightly smears the pin &
balls with grease.
This will avoid the ball or the pin
falling down while assembly.
Springs towards 1st / 2nd gear

position is softer than 5th / reverse
position
.
Cleaning & Inspection –
Clean the transmission parts in solvent.

Dry the housing gear mechanisms & shafts with compressed air.
Do not use the compressed air to clean / dry the bearings. It can cause damage
to raceways and rollers.

Description Torque Nm
Plug - Shift Rail Poppet Spring 12.5 ± 2.5 Nm (9 ± 2 lb – ft )
30 ± 5 Nm (22 ± 4 lb – ft )
Bolt / Nut – Clutch Hsg. To Main
Hsg.
Flange Bolt – Front, Intermediate 35 ± 5 Nm (26 ± 4 lb – ft )

&
Rear Hsg.
Drain plug 27.5 ± 2.5 Nm (20 ±2 lb– ft )
Filler plug 27.5 ± 2.5 Nm (20 ± 2 lb – ft )
Reverse light switch 27.5 ± 2.5 Nm (20 ± 2 lb – ft )
Bolt - Idler Shaft 43 ± 7 Nm ( 32 ± 3 lb – ft )
Bolt - Bearing Retainer Plate 31 ± 4 Nm ( 23 ± 3 lb – ft )
Lever Retention Bolt 24 ± 4 Nm ( 18 ± 3 lb – ft )

Special Tools –
Description/ Part No./ Sketch Usage View

Dolly to press outer race of Counter
Shaft Brg. in Intermediate Plate
0703AD2720H007
Dolly to press outer race of MD Gear

Brg. in Ft. Hsg.
070 AD2720H008
Dolly for pressing oil seal in Rear

Hsg.
0703AD2720H002

Dolly for pressing Outer Race of

Countershaft Bearing
0703AD2720H005
Dolly fir pressing Outer Race of

Output shaft Bearing in
Intermediate Plate
0703AD2720H006

Specifications –

Type Mechanical
Description NGT 530 R
Gears 5 Forward and one reverse

gear
Gear shift Direct shift with

rubberized
lever
Gears Helical- toothed
Double Cone type

synchronizer on 1st – 2nd ,
Block ring 3rd-4th pin type
Gear Engagement on 5th gear.
Gear Ratio
1st 3.778
2nd 2.087
3rd 1.379
4th 0.789
5th 3.524
Reverse
Oil grade/ quantity 80W90 SYNCHRO
Oil Capacity: 1.8 liters.

Counter shaft One ball bearing & one

bearing Cylindrical roller.
Input Torque 30 kg-m

capacity
Weight 45 kg
Play Limit (mm) Service

Limit (mm)
1st 0.175 0.375
2nd 0.175 0.375
3rd 0.175 0.375
4th 0.175 0.375
5th 0.18 0.3
Fork to groove 0.6 to 1.2

clearances

Sealants –
Sr No. Location Sealant / Thread Applicability

Locks NGT530 R –4 WD
1 Ft. Hsg. &
Intermediate Plate Loctite 5699
2 Intermediate Loctite 5699
Plate & Rear Hsg
3 Clutch Hsg. & Frt. Loctite 5699
Hsg.
4 Output shaft Loctite – 24185
Locknut Optional – ANR 138
5 Breather Loctite 648
6 Pivot & Rear Hsg. Rhodorseal

Optional – CAF -33
Pidiseal – 3P
7 Drain Plug Threads Pedilite 171
8 Filler Plug Threads Pedilite 171

9 Reverse light Pedilite 171

switch Threads Optional – Loctite 577

U
S
U
Transfer Case – Electric Shift

Contents
Description
Construction & Operation
Identification
Trouble Shooting
Removal from the vehicle
Dismantling
Assembly
Tightening Torques
Special Tools
Specifications
Automatic Locking Hub
Description –
Divgi-Warner’s 4555 Transfer case is a two-speed, part-time electrical shift

transfer case. The transfer case operates in a system. The system consists
of:
1. Transfer case with Shift Motor, Speed sensor and Electric clutch.
2. Electronic Control Unit (ECU)
3. Mode selector switch and Indicator lights 4WH and 4WL on dash
board
4. Harness to connect the above parts and power input.
The power is received by input shaft, which is coupled with output shaft of
transmission gearbox by matching splines. There are two outputs, one for
rear wheels and one for front wheels. Four selector positions are provided
as follows –
Position Speed Operation
Ratio
2H - Two high position 1: 1 Only the two rear wheels are
driven at 1: 1 speed ratio
4WH - Four high 1: 1 All four wheels are driven at 1: 1
position speed ratio
4WL – Four low position 2.48:1 All four wheels are driven at 2.48:
1 speed ratio
Construction & Operation –
Planetary gear set provides gear reduction. Power is transferred to the

front wheel drive through a Morse HY-VO chain drive. Unit operates in an
oil bath. An oil pump is used to provide positive lubrication to the
planetary gear set and other upper output shaft components.
The different modes are obtained by rotating selector switch for selection.
This in turn gives signal to Electronic Control Unit (ECU). ECU intelligently
controls operations. It senses the conditions and shift transfer case in to
the mode selected.
The control over the operations is obtained using Electronic Control Unit
(ECU). It is housed below the driver’s or co-driver’s seat. Rotary switch
is provided for selection of different modes –
2H – Two wheel high

4H – Four wheel high
4L – Four wheel low
Identification –
Identification
Tag
Manufacturing Date Divgi Warner

DD MM YY Assembly Part No.
XX XX XX XXXX-X
XXX XXX XXXXXXXX
Divgi Warner
M&M
Serial No.
Part No.
Automotive Sector
• Electric Shift Transfer Case in 2H Mode
Input Shaft
Reduction Hub
Output Shaft
Rear Output Flange
Only the two rear wheels are driven at 1: 1 speed ratio

• Electric Shift Transfer Case in 4H Mode
Input Shaft
Reduction Hub
Output Shaft
Lockup Assembly
R. Flange
Drive Sprocket
Chain
Driven Sprocket
¾ Shifting from 2WD to 4WD Lower Output Shaft

• Shift selector switch mode from 2H to 4H. 4WD HI
indicator light will turn On.
• Shifting is possible during driving. Front Yoke
¾ Shifting from 4WD to 2WD
• Shift selector switch mode from 4H to 2H. 4WD HI
indicator light will turn Off
• Shifting is possible during driving
• Electric Shift Transfer Case in 4L Mode
Input Shaft
Sun Gear
Carrier Assembly
Reduction Hub
Output Shaft
Lockup Assembly
Rear Flange
Drive Sprocket
Chain
¾ Shifting from 4H to 4L
• Stop the vehicle
Driven Sprocket
• Apply clutch paddle
• Shift selector switch mode from 4H to 4L. 4WD LO
indicator light will turn On
Lower Output Shaft
¾ Shifting from 4L to 4H
• Stop the vehicle
• Apply clutch paddle. Front Yoke
• Shift selector switch mode from 4L to 4H. 4WD HI
indicator light will turn On

Electric shift 1. Faulty or damaged 9 Refer to self diagnosis
problems ECU, speed sensor,
clutch or internal
wiring
2. Damaged or worn 9 Overhaul and check for

shift cam, hub, wear and damage.
fork and rail shaft Replace if necessary
No front wheel 1. Broken drive chain 9 Check internal parts and

drive when replace if necessary
Shifted to 4WD.
Noise in 4WD Oil level lower than Drain old oil and replace with
operation. minimum required. Specified oil.
Make sure noise is Loosened bolts or Re-tighten as specified.

coming mounting parts
from Transfer case
and not from clutch, Noisy transfer case Disassemble bearings and
transmission, drive bearings parts and check for wear or
shaft, Automatic damage. Replace if
locking hubs or necessary.
other
Components. Noisy gears Check for wear and damage
Including speedometer gear
and replace if necessary
Worn or damaged Disassemble and check for

sprockets or wear and damage. Replace if
drive chain necessary
Incorrect tyre Adjust tyre pressure.

pressure.
Transfer case oil Cracked transfer Replace the case.
leakage case.
Clean case and parts and
Leakage from other check for leakage.
parts.
Breather clogging. Remove breather barb and

clean it. Replace if
necessary.
Oil level higher than Use specified oil. Adjust oil

required or improper level
brand of oil being
used.
Loosened sealing Re-tighten.

bolts.
Improper brand of Use specified sealant and

sealant or retighten.
improperly applied
sealant
Worn or damaged oil Replace oil seal

seal
Oil level Check – Every 10,000 Kms.

Oil replacement interval - Every 40,000 Kms.
Checking the Oil Level –
• Clean the oil level plug and surrounding area.

• Remove the oil level plug and check whether oil is dripping out.
• If oil is not dripping out, oil level must be below the required level.
Add specified oil to bring it to the level when it starts dripping out.
• Tighten the oil level plug.
Precautions –
Before checking or removing the oil, warming up the transfer case is

necessary. This should be done by driving the vehicle for some time.
Do not use an impact wrench to open or tighten the drain and oil level
plugs. This may damage the threads in the transfer case.
Changing the Oil –
• Clean the oil level plug, drain plug and surrounding area.
• Place a container to collect oil, under the transfer case.
• Remove the drain plug.
• Remove the oil level plug.
• Let the oil drain out.
• Tighten the drain plug.
• Fill new oil through oil level plug, till it begins to drip out.
• Tighten the oil level plug.
Removal & fitting on the vehicle –
1. Disconnect the wiring harness connection from the T/case

2. Lift up the vehicle.
3. Remove transfer case drain and fluid plugs. Drain all fluid and reinstall
plugs.
4. Remove the breather tube.
5. Disconnect speedometer cable connector and switch connector.
6. Support the transfer case with the jack and disconnect the front and
rear propeller shafts from the transfer case
7. Remove the transfer case by removing the mounting nuts, attaching the
transfer case to transmission.
8. Remove the tuner assembly & tuner brackets.
Dismantling –
Disassembly – Rear Flange.

• Position the Transfer case on
repair fixture.
• Holding the flange by flange
holder, remove the nut and
washer and then remove the
flange with the help of puller.
• Remove the oil seal from the
shaft.
• Remove the two oil plugs
from the cover.
Disassembly - Assembly Cover

(Motor, Speed sensor, Clutch coil
and Speedo Gear.
• Remove bolts and remove
Assembly Motor, Speed sensor
bracket and speed sensor.
• Separate clutch coil wire
terminal from the connector
and pull out from the sleeve.
• Remove the bolt and remove
Speedo body and separate
Assembly Speedo driven gear
& shaft and Speedo body.
• Remove oil seal and Speedo
drive gear.
• Remove the 9 bolts and

identification tag.
• Pry at the bosses provided on
the cover and the case to
break the sealant bond of the
cover and the transfer case in
such a way that the metal
surface is not damaged.
• Remove the snap ring and pull
out the ball bearing from the
cover.
• Remove clutch coil from the
cover.
• Pull out the needle bearing
from the cover.
• Remove the magnet from the
slot in the case.
• Remove the return spring.
• Clean and remove the sealant
of the cover and case. Be
careful not to damage the
metal surface.
Disassembly – Lock – up Shift Part
• Remove clutch housing from

output shaft.
• Together slid 2W-4W lock up
assembly and lock up fork
from output shaft and
separate fork assembly and
Remove the two shift fork
facings from the shift fork
assembly, if required.
• To dismantle 2W-4W lockup
assembly remove snap ring,
lock up hub return spring
from lock up collar.
Disassembly – Chain Drive
• Remove snap ring and spacer from the output shaft.

• Remove drive chain, driven sprocket and drive sprocket from the
output shaft at a time.
• Separate the chain and sprocket when removing the assembly.
Disassembly – Gerotor Pump
• Remove the coupler from the

case.
• Remove Assembly output
shaft and gerotor pump.
• Loosen the hose clamp and
remove the hose coupling
from the pump housing
• Remove hose clamp, hose
coupling and strainer
• Slide the Gerotor pump of the

output shaft and remove the
output shaft.
Gerotot Pump is not
serviceable, ifrequired replace
pump as assembly.
Disassembly – Reduction Shift

Parts
• Remove rail shaft from the
case.
• Remove the reduction hub
and reduction fork assembly
from the case
• Remove the two shift fork
facings from the shift fork
Disassembly – Electrical Shift Cam

Parts
• Remove ASM shift shaft from

the case.
• Separate Cam, spring, Spacer
and shift shaft by pulling
outward.
Disassembly – Yoke & Output Shaft
• Holding the end yoke with the

yoke holder remove the nut,
washer and then pull out the
front yoke assembly. Remove
seal oil.
• Remove the out put shaft.
• Press deflector from the yoke
only if replacement is
required.
Disassembly – Adaptor , Input

Shaft & Carrier Assembly
• Remove the breather barb.

• Remove the six bolts of
adapter.
• Remove the adapter by
separating the adapter sealer
bond (pry front adapter, take
care not to damage the
adapter or the case).
• Remove the adapter
assembly, input shaft
assembly and carrier gear
assembly. (Expanding long
ends of the snap ring ;
separate the carrier and input
shaft assembly from the
adapter.).
• Remove snap ring and oil seal
from front adapter.
1. Remove snap ring and pull out Assembly Input shaft and sun gear
from Assembly Carrier.
2. After removing retaining ring, pull out the bearing and thrust
washer from input shaft.
3. Remove the needle bearing and sleeve bearing from input shaft
Disassembly - Case
• Remove the oil seal.
• Remove the retaining ring and bearing.
• Remove the dowel pins from transfer case, if required.
• Do not remove ring gear from the case.
Cleaning –
Note: Before cleaning, check the magnet for the presence of metal
particles, which indicate internal chipping of the transfer case.
• Using a cleaning solvent, clean the old oil and dirt deposits
• After cleaning dry the parts with low-pressure (20 psi maximum)
compressed air.
• Lubricate the ball bearings and needle bearing with ATF oil.
• Protect lubricated bearings from dust.
Inspection –
Note: Always replace the hose coupling, O-ring and oil seal with new parts.
• Visually check all the parts for damage.
• Referring to normal gear tooth face, specifically inspect the uneven
wear and chips of gear tooth. Replace or repair if necessary.
Assembly –
Do not use hammer to drive in the oil seal and bearing. Use special tools
for assembly.
Use a Torque Wrench to tighten threaded parts.
Torque values are specified in the torque chart.
Lubricate bearings, O-rings, bushings and matching metal parts
before assembly (with oil).
Assembly – Case
• Insert the two new dowel pins.
• Press the ball bearing into the case and install the retaining ring
(snap ring).
• Install the new oil seal, by pressing it into the case.
Make sure that all parts are correctly and firmly installed into the case.
Assembly – Adaptor, Input Shaft & Carrier Assembly
• Press the needle bearing and the new sleeve bearing into the input
shaft (if removed).
• Install the sun gear onto the input shaft and put thrust plate, thrust
washer and press the bearing onto the input shaft.
• After pressing the bearing, install the retaining ring.
• Insert the above assembly into the planet carrier. (Ensure that planet
carrier assembly on the work bench is such that the retaining rings’
mounting groove faces upward).
• Install the retaining ring to the planet carrier.
Assembly – Adaptor, Input Shaft &

Carrier Assembly
• Press the spiral pin into the
front adapter.
• Press the oil seal into the front
adapter.
• Invert front adapter assembly.
Install snap ring by make sure
that snap ring is correctly
installed into the groove.
• Position the input shaft
assembly over front adapter
and engage into bearing groove
by expanding the ends of snap
ring (Push Input shaft and
carrier assembly in to the front
adapter.).
• Apply 1.6 mm bead of sealant
on the mounting face for the
transfer case and tighten the
six bolts.
• Install the breather barb.
Assembly – Yoke
• Position the output shaft in
transfer case and install the
end yoke assembly, seal,
washer and nut.
• Holding the end yoke with the
help of yoke holder, tighten
the nut up to specified torque
• Turn the fixture for further
assembly.
Assembly – Reduction Shift Parts
• Install the two forks facing on
the reduction shift fork
assembly.
• Install the reduction hub in to
the fork.
• Install reduction hub and fork
in to the planet carrier.
• Insert shift rail in reduction
fork bore, to match with case
bore.
Assembly – Electrical Shift Cam Parts

• Insert spacer into torsion spring ,insert the shift shaft into the
spacer. Slide electric cam on to the shift shaft.
• Slide the torsion spring and spacer to the right of the shift shaft and
position the end of the first spring to fix on the drive tang.
• Position the cam on the second spring and rotated anticlockwise.
Push the end of the second spring to left with cam and fix it on the
drive tang.
• Install the electric shaft cam in to the case.
Assembly – Assembly Output Shaft

& Gerotor Pump
• Align rotor slot of the pump
and slot of the pump body in
line.
• Slide the pump assembly on the
output shaft over pump pin.
• Slip hose clamp over free end
of hose coupling with strainer
and push onto hose barb on
pump and tighten.
• Install the output shaft splines
into the reduction hub and
engage the output shaft end
with input shaft bearing.
• Couple strainer with case and
insert the magnet into the
transfer case slot.
Assembly – Chain Drive

• Position the drive sprocket to
the rear output shaft end and
driven sprocket to the front
output shaft end.
• Install the drive chain onto the
sprockets.
• Holding each sprocket with
drive chain tight and parallel
with transfer case, install the
drive chain assembly to the
output shafts.
• Rotate the driven sprocket
slightly to engage splines on
the front output shaft.
• Install the spacer to the front
output shaft and insert snap
ring into the groove over
spacer.
Assembly – Lock-up Shift Part

• Install the lockup hub and
return spring to the lock up
collar and insert the snap ring.
• Install two new facings to the
fork.
• Engage the lockup fork in
groove in 2WD-4WD lock up
assembly and slide this group
down over drive sprocket and
rail shaft.
• Install clutch housing on out
put shaft.
Apply 1.6 mm bead of sealant
on the mounting face of the
case.
Assembly – Assembly Cover
• Position the cover with the open end facing up on the table.
• Position the end of needle bearing with the identification mark up
and press into the cover (If removed).
• Press the ball bearing in to cover and install snap ring.
• Install the clutch coil assembly inside the cover, put wire bracket
and tighten three nuts.
• Install speed sensor assembly to the cover.
Assembly – Assembly Cover

• Align the cover holes with the transfer case dowel pins
• Align the cover bearings with output shafts
• Align shift shaft with cover boss.
• Align the cover blind hole with rail shaft and make sure that return
spring is not cocked.
• Tighten nine bolts positioning identification tag.
• Align the motor with shift shaft and position the motor assembly on
to the cover.
• Install the motor to the shift shaft and contact cover. Rotate the
motor clockwise direction to check correct engagement.
• Install the bracket to the motor assembly and tighten three bolts.
• Tighten motor bracket bolt.
• Install to oil plug to the cover.
• Pass clutch coil wire through sensor wiring sleeve, connect clutch
coil terminal with the connector.
• Install motor connector and sensor connector to the motor bracket.
• Insert wiring in the respective Clip and crimp it properly.
• Install the Speedo gear over output shaft splines in the cover
assembly.
• Press the new oil seal into the cover assembly.
Assembly – Rear Output Flange
Position the circular flange on the
upper output shaft in transfer case
and install the flange, seal, washer
and nut.
Holding the flange, tighten the nut
up to specified torque.
Electronic Control Unit and Self Diagnosis –
• Electronic Control Unit
Electronic Control Unit (ECU) is located under the co-driver’s seat or under
dashboard. Driver operates a selector switch to shift the vehicle from two-
wheel drive to four-wheel drive (and vice versa). Shifting is possible during
driving (only in 2H to 4H mode).
Interconnections between ECU and other system blocks are as shown in the
circuit diagram for Bolero –
Bolero 4 WD Electric Shift Circuit Diagram –
Electronic Control Unit and Self Diagnosis –

Note : In case of malfunctioning in shifting, the 4WD HIGH and 4WD
LOW indicator lights will flash, simultaneously.
Self diagnosis of ECU :
ECU detects transfer case system malfunctions and indicates

malfunctioning part(s) through flashing indictor lights. The operator will be
alerted of fault condition by continuous illumination of both 4WD HI and
4WD LO lights on dashboard when ignition is On.
A service connector is provided to indicate the fault codes in binary.

Connect one end to the pin hole number 9 in ECU connector, and other end
to the ignition switch. The flashing of indicator light will show the
defective code (as illustrated in the table). Identify the malfunctioning
part and replace it.
L1 L2 L3 Binary Decimal Fault with

code equivalent
Off Off On 001 1 ECU Module
Off On Off 010 2 Shift Motor
Off On On 011 3 Synchronizer Clutch
On Off Off 100 4 Speed Sensor
On On Off 110 6 Selector switch
On On On 111 7 Motor Position Switch

Note –
Before replacing the malfunctioning parts with defective codes, check

the wires and connectors for proper condition.
Use only 12v 3-watt bulb for diagnostic purpose.
If only one part is malfunctioning, the indicator light will display defective
code three times continuously. If more than two parts are malfunctioning,
the first malfunctioning part will be displayed three times and then the
other malfunctioning parts will be displayed.
After repair, clear the fault stored in the memory. Ground the service
connector and keep ignition ‘On’ for five seconds continuously to erase
defective code.
Self diagnosis of ECU –
Connect a service connector as described earlier. Turn the ignition switch

On. 4WD CHECK indicator will turn On for 0.6 seconds and turn Off for 3
seconds. Then it will display a defective code 3 times continuously.
The chart for the defect codes is enclosed -----

Bolt location Torque Values

Level & Drain Plug 35 ± 7 Nm (26 ± 5 lbf-ft)
Flange Nut 365 ± 15 Nm (269 ± 11 lbf-ft)
Front Yoke Nut 225 ± 25 Nm (166 ± 18 lbf-ft)
Case Bolts 35 ± 7 Nm (26 ± 5 lbf-ft)
Motor bolts, and coil nuts 9.5 ± 1.5 Nm (7 ± 1 lbf-ft)
Speedo body bolt 9.5 ± 1.5 Nm (7 ± 1 lbf-ft)
Breather Barb 14 ± 5 Nm (10 ± 4 lbf-ft)
Special Tools –
11
10
Description Borg Warner Part No.

Yoke Holder - 1 T-10001
Seal Driver - 2 T-10003
Snap ring plier Adapter - 3 T-10007
Snap ring plier - 4 T-10006
Drift ball bearing - 5 T-10053
Drift ball bearing Input shaft - 6 T-10056
Drift NRB fitting Input shaft - 7 T-10054
Drift Bush fitting Input shaft - 8 T-10055
Drift NRB fitting Cover- 9 T-10057
Repair Fixture - 10 T-10037
Flange Holder - 11 T-10012
Dust Deflector Press Tool - 12 T-10188
Specifications – Transfer Case 4555 (Electrical Shift)
Configuration Part time, Single Offset
Circular flange
Rear Output Configuration
Fixed Yoke
Front Output Configuration
Female Splines
Input Configuration
Right hand
Offset hand
Force lubrication by Gerotor pump
Lubrication System
Castrol ATF - TQ,
IOC- Servo Transfluid A
Lubricating Fluid Type
Chemoleium -A
HPCL ATF - A
Housing Material Aluminum
Dry Weight in Kgs. 29.5 Kgs. Approx.
1.2 Approx.
Fluid Capacity in liter
Shift Pattern 2H – 4H – 4L
Selector Switch
Shift Control
4WDH Shift –on the Fly Yes

Automatic Locking Hub –
When 4-wheel drive is selected, the automatic hub locks the axle shaft to
the wheel hub. This occurs when the vehicle is driven in either forward or
reverse direction. The hub unlocks when 2-wheel drive is selected, and the
vehicle is driven in the opposite direction for a few feet.
Construction –
The 4 Tanged washers are held in place on the Wheel Spindle. The cut-
outs on the drag sleeve (26) fit over the tangs on the washer, preventing
the drag sleeve from rotating. The brake band (24) fits over the serrated
portion of the drag sleeve. The tangs of the brake band are fitted through
the window in the steel inner cage (21). The plastic outer cage (20) fits
over the inner cage. Each tang of the brake band fits through each cutout
in the outer cage. The cam follower (19) is attached to the clutch gear
(15). The follower profile on the cam follower (A) ride against the cam
faces or ramps of the steel inner cage. The clutch gear slides on the splines
on the out side the hub sleeve (16). The axle shaft(C) is splined to the
inside of the hub sleeve. The large teeth on the outside of the clutch gear
can engage the teeth inside the outer clutch housing (9).The outer clutch
housing is bolted to the wheel hub. An End Cap (2) fits over the hub lock
assembly. The end cap contains a bearing assembly (6) that supports the
other end of the hub sleeve. The End Cap is fitted with an Aluminium
Decorative Plate(1) for better aesthetics.
Briefly, this is what happens when the hub locks -

The clutch gear (15) and cam follower (19) rotate up the cam face of the
inner cage (21). This causes the clutch gear to move outward on the hub
sleeve (16). The out side teeth of the clutch gear engage the inside teeth
of the outer clutch housing (9), locking the wheel hub to the axle shaft.
When the hub un-locks,
The clutch gear and cam follower rotate in the opposite direction, back
down the cam face of the inner cage. Spring pressure forces the clutch
gear inward, unlocking the wheel hub from the axle shaft.
Operation –
Now, let’s see how the hub operates in detail. When 4-wheel drive is
engaged (and vehicle starts to move ), the axle shaft starts to turn the hub
sleeve (16), clutch gear (15) and cam follower (19). The steel inner cage
(21) and plastic outer cage (20) also start to turn. (Remember, the drag
sleeve (26) is fixed to the wheel spindle and doesn’t rotate) When the
inner cage window hits the first brake band tang (30) the band tightens up
on the drag sleeve. This stops the inner cage. The cam follower (19) is
forced up the ramp of the inner cage (21).
12
13
14
15
19
16
30
26
Now, let’s see how the hub operates in detail. When 4-wheel drive is
engaged (and vehicle starts to move), the axle shaft starts to turn the hub
sleeve (16), clutch gear (15) and cam follower (19). The steel inner cage
(21) and plastic outer cage (20) also start to turn. (Remember, the drag
sleeve (26) is fixed to the wheel spindle and doesn’t rotate) When the
inner cage window hits the first brake band tang (30) the band tightens up
on the drag sleeve. This stops the inner cage. The cam follower (19) is
forced up the ramp of the inner cage (21).
As the cam follower moves up the ramp of the inner cage, it is moved
outward along the hub sleeve (16), pushing the clutch gear (15) into
engagement with the outer clutch housing. The cam follower (19) also
pushes against the lugs of the outer cage (20). The outer cage tang
contacts the second brake band tang (30). This unlocks the brake band and
allows it to turn freely on the drag sleeve serration’s.
When 2-wheel drive is selected to disengage the hubs, and the vehicle is
driven in the opposite direction for a few feet, the rotating front wheel
turns the outer clutch housing, clutch gear (15) and cam follower (19) in
the opposite direction. The cam follower moves down the ramp of the
inner cage (20). The return spring (14) pushes the clutch gear (15) along
the hub sleeve (16) and out of engagement with the outer clutch housing.
Trouble shooting –
Symptoms Causes Remedial Action

Oil Leakage A cracked or porous or Replace the end cap.
Make sure that a improper fitment of
suspected oil leak is protective end cap.
actually coming from
the hub. Oil leaks can Damaged or missing Fit a new ‘O’ ring.
originate in the axle “O” rings.
shaft (oil seal).
Incorrectly installed or Fit properly
damaged sealing ring
of the End Cap and
outer clutch housing.
Does not engage or Transfer case not Rectify
Disengage. engaging or
Before disassembly of disengaging front axle
a locking hub, be sure shaft.
the problem is caused
by the hub and not Viscosity of front Check & fill proper
another component differential lubricant lubricant.
in the drive train. too high (i.e. due to
cold weather).
Front differential pre- Rectify

load too high.
Seized front axle shaft Rectify / Replace

bearing.
Noisy Operation –
A broken or missing 4 tanged washer can cause problems in 2 or 4 - wheel

drive.
A broken or missing washer will allow the drag sleeve to rotate with the
brake band . If the hub are not engaged , the brake band is unable to lock
on the drag sleeve and initiate the locking action of the clutches. If the
hubs are engaged, the brake band can not be released to allow the clutch
gear to disengage.
A broken or missing brake band cannot lock the inner cage to engage the
hub or be unlocked by the outer sleeve to allow the clutch gear to
disengage.
If both brake band tangs are touching the centre post of the outer sleeve,
there cannot be proper locking or unlocking action of the brake band
through the movement of the inner cage and outer cage. The centre post
of the outer cage and the window of the inner cage move relative to each
other when the hub is locking or unlocking. If the cages are not rotating
freely over each other, the hub may fail to engage or disengage.
A sticking clutch gear can cause the hub to bind in either the engage or the
disengage position. A broken return spring will cause the hub to remain in
the engaged position.
In each case, the defective component should be replaced with the correct
part or assembly. Always check the most recent parts list for the correct
part numbers and available assemblies for the type of the hub you are
servicing.
Lubrication –
The automatic hub lock should be lubricated at every 40000 Kms.
• Remove drag sleeve assembly and keep aside, DO NOT lubricate drag
sleeve assembly as it is permanently lubricated with Darmex grease.
• Check the brake band and drag sleeve serration for presence of
appropriate quantity of grease and wear, in case of insufficient
grease, replace the drag sleeve.
• DO NOT remove the brake band as this could change the spring
tension and affect hub operation.
• All components except drag sleeve assembly and outer bearing race
assembly are lubricated by dipping them in automatic transmission
fluid. Allow excess fluid to drip off before assembling the hub.
• Lubricate the outer bearing race with light wheel bearing grease.
DO NOT use axle grease.
Removal & Installation of Automatic Locking Hub –
Removal –
Loosen the end cap with the help of

pin spanner
Remove 6 nos. bolts

Pull out ALH from the wheel hub.
Installation of Automatic Locking Hub –
1. Make sure that the snap ring and spacer is installed on the axle shaft.
2. Make sure that the slots on the Drag Sleeve are engaging with the 4-
tanged washer. Install the Hub Lock in the wheel hub.
3. Rotate the Hub Lock to match the threaded holes of the wheel hub.
Put 6 nos. bolts face to face.
4. Tighten 6 nos. bolts with the help of special Allen key to 5.5 to 6.5
kg-m torque using Torque Wrench.
5. Tight the end cap with the help of pin spanner.
Disassembly of Automatic Locking Hub –
Remove the end cap and bearing race spring. Remove the bearing inner
race and retainer.
Invert assembly vertically so the
drag sleeve comes up.
Remove the snap ring with suitable

plier. Exercise caution while
removing the snap ring.
Remove the drag sleeve with brake

band. To lift out the drag sleeve,
rotate it slightly to release the brake
band tangs from the sleeves and tilt
it up on the side opposite the tangs.
Note the position of the components for correct assembly.
The clip doesn’t need to be removed

for the normal servicing. However, if
it’s damaged, remove it using
thumbnail force only to avoid
stretching or distorting it. Do not
remove the brake band for normal
servicing.
Remove the large snap ring from the

outer clutch housing.
Remove the steel inner cage by
pressing it over the tang of the outer
cage (in the window). Lift the inner
cage straight out, don’t tilt it.
Remove the plastic outer cage by

prying one lug out of the large
groove in the outer clutch housing.
Hold the lug and go on to the next
one. It’s easiest to start with the
lugs opposite the one that fits into
the window of the steel inner cage.
Slide the cam & follower assembly

out of the outer clutch housing.
Cleaning –
• Using a cleaning solvent, clean the all the parts except DRAGE SLEEVE
since it is permanently lubricated with Darmex grease.
• After cleaning dry the parts with low pressure (20 psi maximum)
compressed air.
• Lubricate the bearings race with light wheel bearing grease and cam
& follower assembly with ATF oil. Protect lubricated parts from dust.
Inspection –
• Visually check all the parts for damage.
• Examine the protective end cap for

cracks, O - ring.
• Brake band for damage or distortion.
• Also, inspect the teeth on the cam

follower, clutch gear and outer clutch
housing for wear or damage.
When diagnosing a “ratcheting” hub, remember that the noisy hub is

“NOT” always the defective one. It depends on whether the hubs have just
been disengaged. Let’s examine why.
If only one hub disengages after 2-wheel drive is selected, the faulty hub
transmits the wheel rotation to the axle shaft. The mechanical situation is
like a conventional axle raised off the ground. The axle shaft drives the
differential pinions through the side gear. The ring gear and cage are not
turning, so the other side gear and axle shaft are driven in the opposite
direction to the first one. The axle shaft tries to engage the hub against
the direction of the wheel rotation, causing the noise from the hub. In this
case, the faulty hub is not making the noise. The non-noisy hub should be
checked. If 4-wheel drive is selected and only one hub engages, there may
not be any noise from the hub, depending on the malfunction. The only
symptom might be a loss of drive at that hub. If the hub is “ratcheting” in
4-wheel drive, it should be inspected.
Assembly –
Following assemblies are to be replaced as sub-assemblies only-- (if

replacement is needed)
Assembly Cam Assembly Drag

& Follower Sleeve
Install the cam & follower assembly

into the outer clutch housing from
the inside.
Install the plastic outer cage into the large groove in the outer clutch
housing. The cage may be easier to install if the tangs on the each side of
the cutout are installed first.
Install the steel inner cage inside

B the plastic outer cage. (For clarity,
A the cages on the right are shown
outside the hub.) The window (A)
must engage the tang (B) of the
outer cage for correct positioning.
Install the large snap ring in the top

groove of the outer clutch housing.
Install the drag sleeve assembly in

the inner cage, so that the tangs of
C the brake band are located on each
side of the outer cage tang (C)and in
the window of the inner cage. Tilt
the drag sleeve slightly to engage
the tangs, but be careful not to cock
the hub sleeve.
Install the snap ring to the hub
sleeve.
Install the outer bearing assembly, with the retainer and bearing facing the
interior of the hub and the cap facing out.
Install the assembly end cap with the bearing race spring.
Ensure that the ALH is in ‘Unlock ‘

mode while installing on the wheel
hub.
Description Torque Value

Allen Bolts (6 Nos.) 59 ± 5 Nm (43 ± 4 lbf-ft)
Special Tools –
1
2
Description Borg Warner Part No.

Pin Spanner - 1 T 10068
Special Allen for M10 Bolts - 2 T 10099
Specifications –
Input Configuration Female Splines

Output Configuration Bolted Flange
(M10 X 25MM, 6Nos.Bolts)
Location 74 mm dia and ‘O’ Ring for water
resistance
Working Principle Automatic Locking
Projected Length over from the 74.0 mm ( Nominal )
face of the wheel hub
Lubricant :
Assembly Drag Sleeve - Darmex grease
Assembly Cam & Follower- ATF Castrol -TQ or Dexron II
Assembly Bearing Race - Light wheel bearing grease
Locking & Unlocking in degrees 900 Deg. ( Clockwise & Counter

Clockwise )
Gross Weight 1.75 Kgs. Approx.
Appearance Black Powder Coated with
Aluminium Decorative Plate
Content
Propeller Shaft SUV
Propeller Shaft SC/DC
Propeller Shaft SUV
Propeller Shaft SC/DC
Contents
Description
Trouble shooting
In car repairs
Care of the system
Repairs
Specifications & Wear Limits
Tightening Torques
Description
The function of the propeller shaft is to transmit power from one point
to another. The shaft is designed to transmit torque from transmission /
transfer case to the axle.
The propeller shaft has to operate through constantly changing length

while transmitting torque. The axle rides suspended by spring in floating
motion. The propeller shaft must be able to change the transmission
angle when going through the various road surfaces. This is done
through Universal joints which permit the propeller shaft top operates
at different angles. The slip joint or the yokes allow the cotntratction or
expansion of the propeller shaft thus allowing the length to change.
The propeller shaft is built with the yoke lugs in line with each other,
which is called phasing. This design produces the smoothest running
condition. An out of phase shaft can cause a vibration.
The propeller shaft is 2 piece with a centre bearing construction.

The view of the split propeller shaft is shown below.
The details of the centre bearing are shown below.

While assembling the split propeller shaft –
1. Locate the centre bearing assembly- keep the bolts loose in the slot
of the chassis.
2. Locate & tighten the propeller shaft flange at the gearbox end.
3. Tighten the centre bearings mounting bracket bolts.
4. Fit the rear propeller shaft.
This procedure is important; in order to avoid straining the centre

bearing Failure to do so will result in transmission noise and
premature failure of the centre bearing
Trouble shooting –
Tyres that are out of round or wheels that are out of balance cause a
low frequency vibration.
Brake drums that are unbalanced cause a harsh low frequency vibration.
Driveline vibrations can also result from loose or damaged engine
mountings.
Propeller shaft vibrations will keep on increasing as the vehicle speed
increase. The propeller shaft does not cause a vibration that is present
only in a narrow speed range.
Drive condition Possible cause Correction

Propeller shaft 1. Undercoating or Clean exterior of shaft &
other foreign on the wash with solvent.
shaft.
2. Loose companion Tighten the mounting
flange mounting bolts.
bolts.
3. Worn out yoke/slip Replace the joint/yoke.
joint.
4. Excessive runout. Check runout- replace
shaft.
5. Incorrect drive line Correct angularity.
angularity.
6. Worn UJ bearings. Replace the UJ.
7. Propeller shaft Replace the propeller
damaged or bent. shaft.
8. Broken rear springs. Replace the rear
springs.
9. Excessive runout or Reindex the propeller
unbalanced shaft by 180°, test and
condition. correct as required.
10. Excessive pinion Reindex the propeller
shaft runout. shaft by 180°, test and
correct as required
Universal Joint UJ worn out Replace the UJ

Noise
In car repairs –
Unbalance
Runout
Unbalance –
If the propellers shaft unbalance is suspected then it can be verified by

the following procedure.
Removing & rendering the propeller shaft by 180° may eliminate

some vibrations.
Clean all the foreign material from

propeller shaft and the universal
joint.
Inspect the propeller shaft for missing
balance weight, broken welds and
bent areas.
If the propeller shaft is bent then it
must be replaced.
Ensure that the propeller shaft is not
worn, are properly installed and are
correctly aligned with the propeller
shaft
Check the companion flange mounting
bolts.
Raise the vehicle.
Remove the wheel & tyres.
Install the wheel nuts to lock the
brake drum.
Mark & number the shaft 6 inches

from pinion end at four positions 90°
apart.
Run and accelerate the engine until
vibration occurs. Note the intensity &
1 2 the speed at which the vibration
occurs.
Install a screw clamp at position “1”
Start the engine and recheck for

1 2 vibrations. If there is little or no
change in vibrations then move the
clamp or of the other 3 positions.
If there is no difference in vibration at the other position then the
vibration is not due to the propeller shaft imbalance.
If the vibration decreases, install a

second clamp and repeat the test.
If the clamps cause an additional

imbalance, separate the clamp (¼ inch
above & below the mark.). Repeat the
vibration test.
Increase the distance between the
clamps until the vibration is at the
lowest level.
At this position bend the slack end of

the clamp so that it does not loosen.
Install the wheel & tyres. Lower the
vehicle.
If the amount of the vibration remains unacceptable then repeat the

exercise at the Gearbox end.
Runout
Remove dirt, rust, paint &

undercoating from the propeller shaft
surface.
The dial indicator must be installed

perpendicular to the shaft surface.
Measure the runout at the center and
at the ends – away from the weld.
Replace the propeller shaft if the runout is beyond the specified

limit.
Care of the system --
Caution:
Before undercoating a vehicle with any underbody protection. The
propeller shaft and the UJ’s should be covered. This will prevent the
undercoating from causing an unbalanced condition and vibration.
Use the exact replacement hardware for attaching the propeller shafts.
The specified torque’s must always be applied when tightening the
mounting bolts.
9 The UJ to be greased at every service.

9 The slip joint should be lubricated every 10,000 Kms.
The procedure of greasing is as follows –

1. Inspect the Sliding yoke for Grease & play; fill the grease through the
grease nipple with pressurized gun.
2. Inspect the Universal Joint for Grease & play; fill the grease through
the grease nipple with pressurized gun.
Repairs --
Lift the vehicle
Put aligning marks on the flange,

UJ and propeller shaft before
removal.
Do not use a punch to mark

impression.
Remove the mounting bolts at the

pinion end
Remove the mounting bolts at the

gearbox end.
It is important to protect the

machined, external surface of the
yoke from damage after propeller
shaft removal. Any damage in the
machined surface will lead to
damage of the seal and cause a
leak.
Remove the circlips holding the UJ

in place.
Applying the socket wrench on the

outside of the propeller shaft
flange, force out one end of UJ
using a vice as shown. (One end 32
mm socket to receive other end
21-mm socket to push.)
While assembling- insert both ends

then hold & press fit them with
special tool.
Specification & Wear Limits –
Description 2WD 4WD
Length (Joint to Joint)

x O.D x thickness in
mm
Rear 1023.5x70x2 727.5x70x2
Front ( Diesel) 479.6x 44.45x3.25
Rear ( GB –c/brg)-Split 132.8x 63.5x2.1
propeller
Rear ( centre brg to 761.4x63.5x2.1
axle) Split propeller
Runout Diesel 0.5 mm TIR at centre
Location Torque Nm (lbf-ft)

Flange bolt 60 ± 5 Nm (44 ± 4 lbf-ft)
Center bearing mounting 87 ± 15 Nm (65 ± 12 lbf-ft)
bracket
Companion Flange nuts at 60.5 ±5.5 Nm (45 ± 4 lbf-ft)
Transmission & Axle end
Rear Suspension
Rear Suspension - SUV

Rear Suspension - SC/DC

Multilink Rear Suspension - SUV
Contents
Description
Trouble Shooting
Shock Absorbers
Coil Spring Replacement
Bush Replacement
Specifications
Tightening Torques

Description
The rear suspension is with coil spring and five links. This type of rear suspension
provides more comfort & better handling characteristics of the vehicle.
The suspension encompasses Upper Links, lower links, Pan hard Rod. Coil springs &
Shock Absorbers.The upper & lower links are tubular with rubber bushes press fitted
on both ends. The lower links are taking the loads due to acceleration & braking. The
upper links mainly are used to guide and to some extent share the lateral loads. One
end of the links is connected to the chassis while the other end is at axle.
The Pan hard rod is connected between the axle & the chassis .It takes all the
transverse loads experienced during cornering controlling the axle movement in lateral
direction.
The anti roll bars are used to transfer the loads to the outer wheel during turns.
The coil springs absorb the road shocks due to terrain & different load conditions. The
shock absorbers dampen the oscillations of the vehicle. The rubber bumper fitted on
the chassis reduces the impact loads into the body.
The bonded rubber silent blocks / bushings are press fitted & does not require
lubrication with oil. (Also should never be lubricated). While jacking up the vehicle
the jack should always be put below the axle only. Under any circumstances the
vehicle should not be jacked up putting the jack below any of the link including
Pan hard rod.
While lifting the vehicle, if the resting pads are pressing against any of
l lower links, then there is a strong possibility that lower links may get
bent.

Problem Possible causes Correction
Vehicle tending to Permanent distortion or Replace.
be lower on one breakage of coil spring
side & poor ride.
Poor ride Stabilizer link rod loose Tighten. If required
( excessive pitching add washer between
or roll) nut & link.
Unsmooth operation of shock Replace.
absorber
Installation of wrong shock Replace with proper
absorber parts.
Installation of wrong coil spring
Replace with proper
parts
Bouncy ride Breakage of coil spring Replace.
Over inflation pressure of tyre Adjust.
Unsuitable installation Adjust or replace the

(maximum and/or minimum coil springs with new
length) of shock absorber ones.
Deformation or damage of
bushing Replace with proper
parts.
Oil leakage of shock absorber
Replace
Bouncy ride/ Fault in operation of shock Replace.
pitching/ roll. absorber
Damage or deformation of Replace.

shock absorber mount
Deformation or damage of Replace.

shock absorber
Anti roll bar link loose Retighten.
Noise Wear or damage of shock Replace

absorber component parts
Loosening of suspension link Retighten to the

installing bolt specified torque.
Deformation or loss of bushing Replace.

Unsuitability of maximum Replace with proper

and/or minimum length of parts.
shock absorber
Breakage of coil spring

Replace
Wear or damage of ball joint.
Replace
Deformation of stabilizer
clamp. Retighten to the
specified torque
Link nut loose Retighten to the
specified torque

In Car Repairs –
Note: Unless otherwise specified the assembly procedures/ guidelines are

1. Shock Absorber
2. Coil spring
Shock Absorber –
40 ± 10 Nm 1
(30 ± 7 lb-ft)
2
40 ± 10 Nm
(30 ± 7 lb-ft)
1. Remove the upper attaching nut, washer & bolt.
2. Remove the lower attaching nuts, washer from the axle.
3. Remove the shock absorber. ( Check Point A )

Coil Spring –
1. Remove the stabilizer bar.
2. Remove the coil springs. ( Check Point B )
3. Separate the rubber spring seat.
Suspension Overhaul / Bush Replacement –
Note: For disassembling the suspension, the vehicle should be placed on

the level ground/ four post lift. A two post lift can be used for convenience
only for loosening the fasteners if a four post lift is not available.
2
5

90 ± 10 Nm
(66 ± 7 lb-ft)
90 ± 10 Nm
(66 ± 7 lb-ft)
1. Loosen & remove Pan hard Rod by removing nuts, bolts & washers.
90 ± 10 Nm
(66 ± 7 lb-ft)
90 ± 10 Nm
(66 ± 7 lb-ft)

2. Loosen & remove Lower link assembly.
90 ± 10 Nm
(66 ± 7 lb-ft)
90 ± 10 Nm
(66 ± 7 lb-ft)
3. Loosen & remove Upper link assembly.
4. Loosen & remove shock absorber.
40 ± 10 Nm
(30 ±7 lb-ft)

5. Loosen & remove Stabilizer link nuts.
6. To remove & refit the link bushes. Use the MST in the mechanical press. (Refer
Check point C)
Ensure that the bushes are lubricated with soap solution only. Under no circumstance
use any mineral oil or grease; as they degrade the bushes.
Stabilizer Bar Link Replacement –
1. Loosen & remove the stabilizer link upper nut.
2. Loosen & remove the stabilizer bar link lower nut & remove the stabilizer bar link
assembly. (Check Point D)

Stabilizer Bar Bush Replacement –
2 2
Note: The vehicle should be parked on ground/ four post lift such that all four
wheels will be resting on the level surface.
1) Loosen & Remove stab link nuts & the stabilizer bar mounting bolts.
2) Remove the stabilizer bar from the vehicle.
3) Change the old bushes with new one.
Note: While assembling ensure that the bushes are liberally

lubricated with soap water.
Never use any mineral based oil / grease for the lubrication of any of the suspension
bush including the link bushes / stabilizer bar / shock absorber bushes.

Check Points –
A)
The proper orientation of the cup

washers at the bottom end of the
shock absorbers should be ensured.
B)
While fitting the coil spring back ;

The correct orientation should be
ensured.
If the coil spring is held vertically;

the flat end coil should be facing
upwards (Towards the Chassis) &
curved towards the axle.
C)
Ensure the fitment of proper stab

link assembly & proper orientation
on both sides.

D)
Protecting sleeve
A Special tool for removing

Bush
Support Block.
For removing the bush from the

link following sequence should be
followed – ( Refer Photograph)
1. Place link on the support block

as shown.
2. Insert the spigot in the centre
hole of the bush.
3. Place the protecting sleeve on
MST --- such that the spigot
will not get damaged because
of the mechanical press screw.
4. Tighten the mechanical press
screw & remove the bush.
Note :
Use the side A of the tool while
pressing the lower or upper link
bushes.
The side B has to be used while
removing & installing the
transverse link/ Pan hard rod
(The width of the bushes are
different)

Specifications –
Description Specification
Type Multi link with stabilizer Bar &

telescopic shock absorbers
Rear Shock absorbers Maximum length – 503 ± 3.0 mm
Minimum length – 314 ± 3.0 mm
Stroke – 189 mm
Dampening Force –
Expansion – 148 ± 21 mm
Contraction – 71 ± 13 mm
Coil spring Load Identification

1 yellow Dot / Line
2 yellow Dots/Line
Tyre Pressure in all for wheels 32 PSI / 2.2 Bar

Description Value
Pan hard rod – Chassis end & Axle end 90 ± 10 Nm ( 66 ± 7 lb-ft )
Upper Link – Chassis end & Axle end 90 ± 10 Nm ( 66 ± 7 lb-ft )
Lower Link – Chassis end & Axle end 90 ± 10 Nm ( 66 ± 7 lb-ft )
Stabilizer link Nut 40 ± 10 Nm ( 30 ± 7 lb-ft )
Stabilizer Bar Mounting Bolts 40 ± 10 Nm ( 30 ± 7 lb-ft )
Shock Absorber Nut – Upper & lower 40 ± 10 Nm (30 ± 7 lb-ft)

Rear Suspension - SC/DC
Contents
Description
Trouble Shooting
Shock Absorbers
Spring Leaves
Tightening Torques
Description
The rear suspension is a progressively rated multi leaf spring with

double acting shock absorber. The front end of the springs is mounted
at the pivot end through rubber bushings. The bushings isolate the road
noise and road harshness as the springs move. The rear end of the
spring is connected to the springs through shackle
Again the spring and shackles use the rubber bushes to isolate the
noise and road harshness. The shackles allow the variation of the spring
length when the vehicle moves over the different terrain causing the
wheel to move up and down.
The travel of the spring is controlled by bumper, which is mounted on

the axle. The springs are connected to the axle with U-bolts and spring
plate. All suspension components that use rubber bushings should be
tightened with the vehicle at normal height. If the springs were not at
normal ride height condition the ride quality would be affected and
also the life of rubber will also be affected. Rubber bushings must
never be lubricated.
The ride control is achieved by the use of double acting shock absorbers
and leaf springs. The shock absorbers dampen the jolt and the rebound
as the vehicle travels over the various road conditions. The top end of
the shock absorber is connected to the chassis while the bottom end is
connected to axle.
The anti roll bars are used to transfer the loads to the outer wheel
during turns. They have been introduced effective Serial number
32A98547.
A sketch of the antiroll bars in rear with spring, shock absorber & axle
is shown below.
Trouble Shooting
A squeak noise from the shock absorber can be produced if movement

between the rubber bushing and metal occurs. Tightening the attaching
parts can usually stop this noise. If the squeak noise persist then
inspect for worn or damaged bushings and attaching components.
Repair as necessary if any thing found amiss.
The shock absorber bushings do not require any kind of lubrication. Do
not lubricate the bushings to reduce bushing noise. Grease or mineral
oil base lubricants will deteriorate the bushing.
The shock absorbers are not refillable or adjustable. If a malfunction

occurs, the shock absorber must be replaced. To test a shock absorber
hold it upright in fully extended position for 10 minutes. Then force the
piston in and out of the cylinder four or five times. Also check for any
hydraulic oil leakage. The action throughout each stroke should be
smooth and even.

Suspension Noise 1. Check if mud is 9 Clean with
between the leaf pressurized water.
springs.
2. Check tip insert if 9 Replace the tip
broken/ worn between the leaves.
out. 9 Replace the bushes.
3. Check bushes. 9 Tighten the shock
4. Check shock absorber mounting
absorber bush- bolt or replace the
worn out/ loose. bushes.
9 Replace the spring
5. Check leaf assembly.
breakage.
Vehicle ride Jumpy/ 1. Improper tyre 9 Keep tyre pressure as
Jerky pressure. recommended.
2. Shock absorber 9 Replace the shock
bushes worn out. absorber.
3. Spring leaf 9 Replace the bushes.
bushes worn out.
4. Shock absorbers 9 Check the shock
leaking/ weak. absorber and replace
if required.
5. Leaf spring 9 Check the bump
sagging / broken. clearance as per the
specified procedure.
Replace springs.
Shock Absorber –
Remove the upper attaching nut and washer.

Remove the lower attaching nuts, washer and bolts from the axle.
Remove the shock absorber.
While fitting ensure that they are tightened to a torque of 45 to 55 Nm

(33 to 40 Lb ft)
Leaf Spring
Bush Replacement
Leaf replacement
Bush replacement
Pivot end bush replacement.
Shackle end bush replacement.
Pivot end bush replacement.
Support the vehicle in chassis

1. Loosen the shackle mounting bolts.
2. Remove the pivot mounting bolts by rotating and pulling.
3. Pull out inner bush by pulling it out
4. Lower the axle and bring the spring out of pivot.
5. Remove the bush by pulling it out.
Step 3
Step 1
Step 2
Step 5
Shackle end bush replacement.
1. Loosen the shackle mounting bolts.

2. Remove the shackle / pivot mounting bolts.
3. Pull out the one bush at a time. Each eye is having two collared
bushes. They can be pulled out
Step 3
Step 1
Step 2
Step 3
While assembling ensure that:
) The rubber bushes are liberally coated with soap water.
) The hole in the center of the pivot and the hanger bracket are
clean and not blocked by mud. (The hole is provided so that while
assembling the air should not get trapped between the two
bushes- preventing proper assembly.)
) The eyes in spring and pivot/ shackle are properly aligned before
the bushes are inserted.
After the bushes are inserted, remove the support from the chassis &
axle (if used) and then tighten the pivot and shackle bolts to 50 to 70
Nm (37 to 52 Lb ft).
Leaf Replacement –
The leaf springs need to be replaced only if the springs are broken or
are sagging.
To check for the spring sagging it is recommended that bump clearance

in unladen conditions is measured.
The bump clearance has to measured after ensuring that

) The vehicle is in level ground.
) It is unladen.
) The tyre pressure is as per the recommendations and also no
variation between left and right tyres.
) The bump stop is not in deteriorated or damaged condition.
The bump clearance is 85± 10 mm and the variation between Left and
right is allowed to be 7 mm
Recambering of the spring is not recommended. (Please note that

the spring is of progressive type – any recambering will result in the
ride becoming linear as well as stiff.
Description Torque
Bolt – Leaf spring pivot 60 ± 10 Nm (45 ± 7 Lb ft)
Shackle at chassis 60 ± 10 Nm (45 ± 7 Lb ft)
Shackle at Spring 60 ± 10 Nm (45 ± 7 Lb ft)
U Bolt 90 ± 10 Nm (67 ± 7 Lb ft)
Shock absorber top 50 ± 5 Nm (37 ± 3 Lb ft)
Shock absorber bottom 50 ± 5 Nm (37 ± 3 Lb ft)
HVAC
Contents
Description
Trouble Shooting
Care of the system
In Car repairs
Control panel
Specification
Recommended Lubricants

Description -
The Heater, Ventilation and Air conditioning combines air conditioning, heating and
ventilating functions.
The system comprises of:
Blower & Air Inlet system

Heater core, and Air distribution assembly.
Air Conditioning system.
Heater system
The heater system is controlled water flow system. A water valve controls the quantity
of water entering the heater core.
Air conditioning System
The system uses non-CFC refrigerant R134A.
The refrigerant at low pressure and temperature enters the compressor where it is
compressed and its pressure and temperature increase. The refrigerant after leaving
compressor enters condenser and here it is condensed into high-pressure liquid and is
collected in receiver drier. From the receiver drier it passes through expansion valve
where it is throttled down to a low temperature and pressure. After finding its way
through expansion valve it finally passes into evaporator coil where it extracts heat

from surrounding. The refrigerant, which was in low-pressure liquid state, converts to
low-pressure vapour. The low-pressure vapour then again enters the compressor.
The incoming air (in fresh mode or recycle mode) passes through a particle filter &
then gets cooled and dehumidified by the evaporator. The evaporator is in operation
all the times unless the AC switch is kept in off condition. To maintain minimum
evaporator temperature a fixed thermostat-setting switch controls the compressor
clutch. This switch which is called Anti freeze switch has a probe so that it touches the
coldest part of the evaporator is used to avoid formation of ice. (If ice formation is
allowed then the ice formed prevents exchange of heat thus reducing the cooling and
forcing the compressor to work continuously/ longer period leading to low cooling as
well as system failure.)
The evaporator always cools the incoming air (recirculated or fresh) to an amount set
by the fixed thermostat value. The cooled air later goes through the heater coil. Thus
the final air temperature is dependent on the amount of hot water passing through the
heater.
For example when the control panel thermostat is set to the coldest value then no
quantity of hot water goes through the heater and the final outcome is only the cold
air. As the control panel’s knob is moved towards the hotter the mixing start i.e. the
quantity of hot water going through the heater starts increasing proportionately.
It should be borne in mind that when the engine is cold the temperature of incoming
water is low, hence to get a desired temperature the knob will have to be set any
given position. However as the engine warms up the water coming to the heater also
gets warmer, thus the final out coming air temperature will raise. As a result after the
engine warms up the knob in the panel will have to be readjusted to get the same out
coming air temperature.
Trinary Pressure switch: It is mounted on Receiver drier.
High-Low Pressure operation:. If the system pressure becomes low then it switches
off the compressor. Thus in the case of refrigerant loss due to any system leak the
compressor failure is avoided. Once the pressure increases above 32 bar then the
compressor is shut off to avoid any system failure. If the system pressure falls due to
any leaks then the compressor is switched off.
Medium pressure operation: When the pressure in the system goes above 17 bars then
it switches on the condenser fan. As the pressure reduces below 14 bar the condenser
fan is switched off.

AC Performance Test --
This test has to be done in shade and at an ambient temperature of 30 to 40

degrees maximum. If the ambient temperature is more than that, then please take
the vehicle to the coolest area available in shade and then carry out the test.
A. Start the engine, switch on the AC and keep the Engine RPM at 1500.
B. Set the Blower to 3rd speed, the ventilation mode to be set to chest and
recirculation mode. The temperature control should be set to the coolest.
1. These tests have to be performed at ambient temperature ranging from 300 –

400 C.
2. Vehicle must be in shed with bonnet closed and engine speed should be set at
1500 RPM with AC on.
3. Blower to be set in 3rd speed, ventilation to be set recirculation mode and
temperature control to be set to the maximum cool.
4. In 10 minutes close door test the average grill temperature should be less than
120 C. (Open Door Test - in 10 minutes open door test the drop in average grill
temperature with respect to ambient temperature should be 150 C).
Note: In normal conditions:
The low side pressure should be 1.5 to 2.5 bars.
At the High pressure side the pressure should be 15 to 17 bars.
This is with reference to the ambient temperature of 30 to 35° C.

If the ambient temperature is different from the range, refer to the chart for getting
the range of suction and discharge pressures.

Low pressure side Evaporator flooding due to Remove

pressure high Block valve stuck open. refrigerant
Ps>2.5to 2.9 Evacuate/dehydra
And 1. Dirt in Block valve. te
High pressure side 2. Moisture in the Change expansion
pressure gauge high. refrigerant circuit valve
Pd>19.5 to 25 bar Change
filter/drier.
Discharge air warm Charge correct
amount of oil &
refrigerant.
Check
performance.
Low side –High Non condensable Remove

High Side- High ( excessive air) refrigerant
Ps>2.5-3.0 bar Evacuate/dehydra
Pd> 19.5-25 bar 1. Large amount of air te
Suction side piping is hot caused by insufficient Change
to touch. evacuation after repair filter/drier.
or servicing of system Charge correct
amount of oil &
2. Leak in system refrigerant.
allowing air and Check
moisture to enter. performance
Low side –High 1. Expansion valve stuck Change the

High Side- High open. expansion valve.
Ps>2.5-3.0 bar
Pd> 19.5-25 bar
Frosting on suction side
piping
Low side –High 1. Excessive refrigerant Check refrigerant

High Side- High 2. Poor condenser cooling condition
Ps>2.5-3.0 bar 3. Engine or condenser Check & repair
Pd> 19.5-25 bar fan not working condenser fan.
4. Fan direction reverse. Check condenser.
Discharge air- Warm 5. Condenser fan clogged Check pressure
High side tubes-Very hot with debris/ sand. cap, clearance
Compressor clutch- Could 6. Radiator overheating. between fan and
continuously cycle on the radiator.
high pressure switch Check coolant and
any other radiator
Pressure does not come problem.

to normal when
condenser cooled by
water
Low side- Low or vacuum 1. Expansion valve- Remove
High side- High Stuck closed and or refrigerant
Ps> 1.5 bar to vacuum insufficient refrigerant Evacuate/dehydra
Pd> 19 to 22 bar flow to suction side of the te
compressor. Change
Discharge air- slightly filter/drier.
cool 2. Foreign material or Charge correct
moisture entry causing amount of oil &
rust formation. refrigerant.
Check
performance.
Low side _ low or Clogging on high side: Remove

vacuum refrigerant.
High side- High 1. Clogging between Clean & flush
Ps> 1.5 bar to vacuum compressor outlet and system.
Pd> 5 to 7 bar evaporator inlet Change filter drier.
(High side) Charge correct
Discharge air-slightly cool amount of oil &
High side tubes- Cool and 2. Very little or no refrigerant.
showing signs of sweating refrigerant flow to Check performance
or moisture build up at suction (low) side of
the position after the the compressor
point of restriction.
Temperature difference
found on both the sides
of the clogged
component.
Low side Gauge- Normal 1. Excessive moisture in Remove refrigerant
to Vacuum ( Gradual system Evacuate/dehydrat
reduction) e
High side- Normal 2. Moisture can freeze Change expansion
Ps> 1.5 to vacuum within the expansion valve.
Pd> 14 to 16 bar valve and cause Change
blockage through rust filter/drier.
Discharge air becomes formation. Charge correct
warmer as low side amount of oil and
cycles to vacuum. refrigerant.
Check
performance.
Low side- High 1. Compressor Replace

High side- Low malfunction. compressor.
Ps> 4 to 6 bar
Pd> 7 to 10 bar 2. Compressor faulty, Remove refrigerant
internal blockage in Evacuate/Dehydrat
Compressor –Noisy. suction Hose after low e.

Discharge air- Warm side filing port. Change filter drier.
Discharge hose- Cool. Charge correct
amount of oil &
refrigerant
Check
performance.
Abnormal noise 1. Belt slippage/damage. Correct belt
2. Idler pulley tension/ replace
misalignments belt.
3. Compressor clutch Replace bearing in
pulley faulty. the pulley.
4. Loose compressor Check the
mounting bolts compressor
5. Loose A/C plumbing mounting
touching firewall/ Check for loose
front panel/ fenders. parts and correct.
Fit rubber packing
6. Compressor internal where clearances
damage. low.
Replace
compressor.
High /Low pressure 1. Faulty compressor Replace
equalize soon after discharge or inlet compressor.
compressor stops. valve.
Compressor is not hot to
touch. 2. Faulty compressor
seal.
Compressor pressure 1. Non condensable in Recover

drops rapidly after system refrigerant/ check
switching off and does for leaks and
not stabilize to repair
saturation pressure as
per ambient
temperature.
Line to condenser is Restricted flow of Remove restriction
excessively hot. refrigerant in system Evacuate
Replace receiver
drier.
Charge through the
charging unit.
Insufficient/ no air flow 1. Blower rotation Correct the
direction wrong. blower fitment.
2. Sealing disconnected. Renew sealing.
Insulation piece Remove blockage.
blocking air passage. Adjust cable.
3. Mode cable not Recharge battery.
adjusted properly. Check the
4. Voltage insufficient < charging system.
12 Volts Correct earthing.

5. Improper earthing. Correct wiring.
6. Open circuit, wiring Replace fuse.
harness.
7. Fuse blown Clean filter
8. Filter clogged element by
tapping.
Replace filter
element if airflow
is still insufficient
after cleaning.
Replace filter
element after
15,000 km OR one
year.
Compressor clutch 1. Open circuit/ Fuse Replace fuse.
engagement not blown. Charge battery.
satisfactory 2. Weak battery. Change relay.
3. Faulty clutch relay. Check for leaks,
4. No refrigerant. charge refrigerant
5. Shorted clutch coil. & oil & check.
6. Oil/ dirt on clutch Replace coil.
plate. Change clutch
plates
Check condenser/ 1. Condenser fan pusher If fan not operating:
radiator Fan- direction of type Radiator fan • Loose connection
rotation puller. • Loose wiring
harness.
Motor burnout.

Air circulation in the climate box –
Recirculated
Fresh Air
To Demister
To face middle RH
To face Middle LH
To Face RH
To center console
To foot

Knob Position
Flaps↓ Face Face-foot Foot Foot-defrost Defrost
Face LH Open Open
Face RH Open Open
Face Open Open
Middle RH
Face Open Open
Middle LH
Center Open Open Open Open
Console
Foot LH Open Open Open
Foot RH Open Open Open
Defrost Open Open
The Airflow can be either fresh air or recirculation mode.

The air box with the electrically controlled flaps & recirculation mode is slightly
different. Sketch given below –

Care of the system -

The system should be flushed and charged every 50,000 or 1 year of operation. The
quantity of the gas which has to be filled is 830 ± 20 grams.
The refrigerant used is R134A.
Do not use / mix R12 & R134 A. the oils used for compressor is unique for R134. DO
NOT MIX. IT WILL CAUSE DAMAGE TO ‘O’ RINGS as well as the R/D.
Though R134A is non-CFC, it is recommended that it should not be discharged to

atmosphere.
We recommend the use of ROBINAIR equipment for evacuation, charging of the

system.
The particle filter should be cleaned at every 5000 KMs. Also it is recommended that
the vehicle should not be driven with AC or Blower on without the particle filter as it
will seriously damage the AC system components.

The procedure for cleaning the particle filter is as follows –
GLOW BOX REMOVAL
HVAC PARTICAL FILTER - CLEAN

Refer above illustrations -
1. Open and remove the Glove Box.

2. Remove the HVAC Filter Cover [1] by opening the snap clips on both sides.
3. Take out HVAC Filter Element [2]
4. Clean the Filter Element with air blow (If compressed air is used, ensure the
pressure is low).
5. Fit the cleaned HVAC Filter & Cover; lock the snap clips on both sides.

The procedure for the replacement of particle filter is as follows –
Remove the Glove Box.
1. Remove the HVAC Filter Cover by opening the snap clips on both sides.
2. Take out HVAC Filter Element.
3. Put the new Filter Element.
4. Fit the HVAC Filter Cover & lock the snap clips on both sides.
It is recommended that the evaporator fins be cleaned of dirt/ fungus every 40,000
Kilometre or once in 9 months for normal operation. If the vehicle is not clocking long
mileage then also it should be cleaned every 9 months (normal areas) and 4 months in
dusty conditions.
This will ensure that the heat transfer is effective hence better cooling and also
increase the airflow. The recommended cleaning agent is mentioned in the
recommended lubricant section.

In Car repairs -
Extreme care has to be taken to prevent any liquid refrigerant in coming in

contact with skin. Always wear safety goggles.
Do not allow liquid refrigerant to touch bright metal. Refrigerant will tarnish
bright metal and chrome surface. Refrigerant in combination with moisture is
very corrosive and can damage to all metal surfaces.
When charging, always keep the tank in upright position. If the tank is on its
side or upside down, liquid refrigerant will enter and affect the compressor.
Always double check that the gas being used is a R134A.The refrigerant
cylinder is color-coded to avoid confusion. R134A is Blue.
The compressor oil for R134A gas is different from R12A compressor oil. Do not
mix. If the R12A compatible compressor oil is used then it will damage the O
rings as well as the receiver Drier.
The Robinair equipment AC 350 should be used with R134A gas only.
Never discharge a system or do brazing/welding operation when the engine is

ON.
PAG oil is highly hygroscope. Open containers only when ready to use. Cap
containers immediately after use.
Use only the specified oil for the AC system
Do not allow PAG oil to contact bare skin.
Do not allow PAG oil to contact paint work- wash immediately

The charging procedure comprises of the following distinct steps –
Discharging the system.
Evacuation of the system and checking for low vacuum leak
Purging – if required.
Preliminary charging & High Pressure leak test.
Charging the system.
Evaporator cleaning
Performance test.
Discharging the system --

The following procedure is recommended for evacuation.
1. Connect the hose of Recovery unit to the vehicle circuit

Red hose to the high pressure charging port
Blue hose the low pressure charging port
2. Open the quick coupler valves on the hose after they are connected to the system
3. Check the manifold gauges the units control pane. They should register above
zero. If it is indicating zero then either the hose is not connected
properly/or/quick coupler valves are not opened or the system is empty.
4. Make sure that the drain valve at the bottom is closed.
5. Open both the manifold valves on the control panel
6. Open the Gas (vapor valve and liquid valve on the tank).
7. Switch on the power
8. Choose Recover option from the panel
9. To assure that the complete recovery of the refrigerant. Wait for 5 minutes and
watch the manifold gauges for a rise above zero.
10. If a rise occurs, press HOLD/CONT. repeat until the system pressure hold for at
least 2 minutes
11. The system displays the weight of the refrigerant recovered.
12. Confirm that the oil catch bottle is empty. Then slowly open the drain valve and
allow the oil to be drained into the bottle. When all the oil has been recovered,

close the valve immediately. New clean oil must be added to system before
recharging with the refrigerant
13. The automatic recovery unit will operate until the air conditioning system has been
emptied of refrigerant down to atmospheric pressure. The cylinder can now be
closed.
Evacuation of the system –

The evacuation and leak test ensues that the system does not leak under low-
pressure conditions.
Ensure that the hoses are connected to the charging ports and valves on the hoses.
Tank & manifold are open.
Choose vacuuming program (Shift/Reset option) from the control panel.
Set up the vacuuming time in minutes. Approximately 15 minutes of vacuuming time is

recommended.
The unit displays the complete message after the vacuuming is over.
Check the moisture indicator. If it is green, it means that the system is ready for
recharging. If it is not green then manual recycling has to be done for one hour. In
case the moisture indicator still does not turn green, the reason could be saturated
receiver drier. It should be replaced.
The charging station is equipped with recycling facility. During evacuation the
refrigerant is automatically recycled to assure recharging with the cleanest possible
refrigerant. Recycling begins automatically after 5 second of the vacuum pump
starting. Non condensable gases (mostly air) are automatically vented from the tank.
The system must hold the vacuum of –100 Kpa for a minimum of 15 minutes. If vacuum
is held then the system has no ands and should be evacuated for further 15 minutes
This completes the evacuation process.
Purging – if required --
Where the system has been ruptured, contaminated, or a compressor has to be

removed, reinstalled or replaced, the system should be checked for contamination,
and if so then the entire system must be flushed.
The system can be flushed with Nitrogen.

Preliminary charging & High Pressure leak test --
This ensures that the system does not leak under high pressure conditions.
Confirm that the hoses are connected to the charging ports and valves on the hose,
Tank & manifold are open
Enter the refrigerant quantity by weight and press ENTER. (At least 200 grams of
charge are required to do the high-pressure leakage test)
Press CHG to start charging. The unit displays the completed message after the
charging is completed.
Use the electronic leak detector to probe the leakages. Leakage checking to be done
at the following points –
• Expansion valve joints
• All pipe joints.
• Suction & discharge ports.
• Both the charging ports
Note: Inspect for leaks by slowly moving the probe of the detector around all the hose
connections and points of possible leakage’s. The R134A is heavier than air; hence,
any leakage will be more apparent at the bottom of fitting.
Charging the system –
If no leaks are found then do an additional charging of 650±20 grams. The total system
requirement is 830 ± 20 grams.
However in case of leakage, the system should be discharged.

After that repeat, the steps from evacuation onwards till the above steps. Then
proceed.
In case the system was checked for High pressure leaks by using Nitrogen, Evacuation
should done first and then system should be directly charge with 850±20 grams.
Close both the manifold valves and then start the vehicle.
Start the vehicle’s AC system and set it to maximum cooling. Check the pressure
gauges and temperatures in the vehicle.
Turn off the engine.
Disconnect the high side hose and start the vehicle. Open both the manifold valves to
pull the refrigerant from both the hoses into the system.
At the lowest operating pressure close the low side valve and switch off the vehicle.
Disconnect the low side hose and remove adapters if used.
Close the high side manifold valve. Both the valves should now be in closed position.
Do not start the engine when the valve on the manifold and tank are open.
Ensure that the valves are closed before starting the engine.
Never run the compressor without the refrigerant in the system as the lubricant
relies on the refrigerant flow
Accurate system refrigerant charge can only be determined by charging the correct
amount of R134a.
If in doubt as to gas charge, e.g.

Suction pressure low
Or
Discharge pressure low
Or
Air outlet temperature at the face high.
Then: Evacuate the system and Charge with the 830±20 grams of R134 A
Carry out cooling system pressure test and suction (low side) pressure reading
comparison.

Evaporator Cleaning Procedure –
Remove the Glove Box, remove Blower Connection & remove Blower Assembly.
1. Insert “Coil Rinse Nozzle” inside the Climate Box Assembly at the blower neck.
• Spray “Coil Rinse” at least 2 times.
• After Spraying, the Liquid becomes Foam & enters in the Evaporator coil.
• Assemble the removed Blower Assembly again.
• Wait for 10 minutes.
2. Close all the Vents / louvers.
3. Start AC with Blower on 1st speed, Run the Engine at 1500 RPM for 5 minutes.
• Put AC Off & put Blower on 4th Speed for 5 minutes, Close all the Vents.
• All the Evaporator Containments & Water (Liquid) will drain out through the
Drain Hose & Evaporator becomes clean.

Special Instructions for Vehicle Users to avoid Wet Smell on the Evaporator:
Put OFF the AC & put Blower on 4th speed 5 minutes before stopping the Vehicle, this
will keep Evaporator DRY & NO WET SMELL will come from Evaporator.
Performance test –
Pressure gauge readings together with the face air outlet temperatures are the only
method of checking and diagnosing the cooling system.
Checking system oil charge —
The compressor is charged at the factory with 150 cc of FD46XG(PAG) refrigerant oil,
which circulates within the entire AC system. Only this type of oil, which is pale
yellow in color, must be used when adding or changing oil. This oil is not compatible
with any other PAG oil. It is not necessary to regularly check the oil level in the
system. It should be remembered that the oil gets circulated within the whole system.
Therefore, whenever an AC system component is replaced a quantity of new
refrigerant oil must be added to the system, where a major loss of system oil has
occurred. The loss normally takes place when:
Hose failure or leak is present.
Refrigerant system component is damaged due to collision.

If oil is suspected to be in the system
The procedure to be followed is –
Recover refrigerant from the system by evacuation.

Drain out the refrigerant oil.
Flush the remaining oil using R134a refrigerant.
Add 150 cc of new refrigerant oil to the compressor.
Install the compressor after replacing the Suction and discharge “O” rings.
Note: Ensure that the ‘O” rings are not twisted and that both the seals and ‘O’ rings
are clean and then oil.
Follow the steps of charging procedure.
Compressor Replacement –
1. Discharge the refrigerant
2. Remove the suction and discharge pipes from the compressor, ensuring no foreign
items get clogged to the ports. (In order to have better accessibility it is suggested
that the following parts be removed first- right wheel, right aprons; oil cooler)

3. Loosen the tensioner pulley.
4. Remove the fan belt
5. Loosen the compressor mounting bolts.
6. Remove the compressor.
7. Drain and measure the refrigerant oil from the original compressor by removing the
drain plug.
8. For example, the oil quantity drained from the original compressor is 80 cc.
The replacement compressor comes with 150 cc of compressor oil.
The implication is that out of the total 150 cc of the original compressor. 70 cc of
oil is in the system. Hence if the replacement compressor is fitted as it is, it will
cause this 70 cc extra to get into the whole system and affect the performance.
9. Hence it should always be –

Oil to be drained from new compressor =Total oil capacity of compressor- Drained
oil
The refitting procedure is the reverse of assembly procedure.
10. Follow the steps of charging procedure.
Control Panel --
The control panel has 3 knobs- the right knob is for degree of cooling to heating-
depending on the knob setting. For maximum cooling set the knob on blue color dot
and for maximum heating set the knob on red color dot.
The left knob sets the flap position to direct the airflow to face only or face & feet
or feet only or feet & defrosting or only defrosting.

The middle knob controls the blower speed. The bottom row indicates AC low , AC
high & fresh air / recirculation mode.
The control panel is PCB based & has only one cable for water valve opening
operation.
View of the Base plate assembly with actuators (Electrical Operation of Flaps &
circulation modes –
View of the electrical actuator base plate Assembly –

Lever
Base Plate
Actuator Motor
Cam
Gear
Setting of the Control Panel Cable --
The procedure, which is, outlined below are the setting procedure for assembly.
However, please note that the removal of the cables should also be done in the same
positions.
Caution: Failure to follow the procedure may cause breakages.
Note: The procedure for setting of the links with Electric actuation is given after the
manual control panels

Water valve setting Procedure –
Hold the control panel in front of the housing.
Keep the cooling & heating knob at

the highest cooling point position.
Clamp the cable of the control

panel water valve to closed
position of water lever in the
housing side.
Water lever at closed position,

View of the Climate control box with Electric Actuation Showing the linkages for
different actuation –
Defrost Lever
Defrost Rod
Face Lever
Face Rod
Foot Rod

Fitting the rod by snapping it on the Hook –
Foot Rod

Photo showing the levers in the face mode –
Foot Rod

Fitting the Fresh /re circulating flap ( with the flap in the fresh air mode)
Lever for Fresh /

Re-circulating
mode
Connecting Rod
Motor for Fresh /

Re-circulating
mode

Replacing the Antifreeze switch –
The function of the anti freeze switch is to protect the refrigerant system from
damage. It switches off the compressor when the condenser water dries ices up on the
evaporator fins. Otherwise, the evaporator becomes extra cool, resulting in the air
passage between the fins getting blocked. Suction pipe becomes extra cool and
sometimes iced up, the refrigerant remains liquid even after the expansion valve due
to insufficient heat transfer across the evaporator surface and eventually the
compressor will get damaged due to liquid refrigerant inflow.
Replacement procedure:
Remove the wiring harness from the connector.

Pull out the probe carefully.
While fitting back, ensure that the washer & the O ring is present.
Recommended Lubricants –
Refrigerant: R134A
Compressor oil: FD46XG. PAG stands for ( Poly Alkaline Glycol oil)
Oil quantity to be filled while replacing components –
• Condenser/evaporator: In addition to the drained quantity- 20 cc

• Receiver Drier: Add 20 cc of new oil
• If any one pipe is replaced then 10cc. (If 2 pipes replaced then it should be 20
cc.)
Evaporator cleaning Agent --
"Coil Rinse" Packaged by Chemguard Laboratories; Kuala Lumpar.
In India Marketed by Astro Trading Company

Contact person Mr. Rakesh Bhai; Mobile no 9820141308
Specifications –
Blower Motor: 3700±300; 12 V; 300 W

Condenser Motor: 2500± 200; 12V; 200 W
Expansion Valve- 2T

Chart showing the Effect of ambient temperature on Low Pressure side pressure &
High side pressure with R134 A

Pedal Pulsation
Working principle, Assembly & dismantling of the Rear Brake –
1.0 Description
2.0 Function
3.0 Operation
4.0 Installation
9 I
Steering
Contents
Description
Troubleshooting
Care of the system
In Car repairs
Dismantling & Assembly of the Steering Gear
Working principle of the Steering Pump
Specifications
Tightening Torques
List of the MSTs
Recommended Lubricants

Description
The power steering system is a rack and pinion type hydraulic system. The engine
driven hydraulic –pump supplies oil to a control valve situated in housing that supports
the pinion shaft. Movement, imparted to the control valve from the shaft in the
steering column is via a torsion bar. This sensing bar moves the control valve, which in
turn directs the oil to one side or the other side of the ram piston inside the steering
rack.
The control valve is a rotary type spool valve controlled by the torsion bar interposed
between the steering shaft and pinion of the steering box. The spool valve is a shaft
with six flutes and a sleeve, which has six internal axial grooves, encases this. Radial
ports in the sleeve and shaft pass the oil from the supply to the lines connected to the
ram chamber.
A series of the splines between the shaft and the sleeve limit the twist of the torsion
bar to about 7 degrees in each direction; below this angle the torque applied by the
driver to the steering box is transmitted by the torsion bar. This fail-safe feature
provides a mechanical drive from the steering shaft to the pinion in the event of any
power system failure.
The amount of the twist of the torsion bar and the movement of the spool valve is
proportional to the effort applied by the driver. Initial power steering assistance is
obtained at about 0.5 degrees deflection of the bar and this power rises progressively
as the bar moves to about 4 degrees; the point o maximum assistance.
When the wheel is in straight-ahead position, all the ports are open so oil is allowed to
flow through the valve and return to the reservoir.
As soon as the wheel is turned, the torsion bar is deflected; this allows the spool valve
to rotate relative to the sleeve, cutting off the oil flow both to the reservoir and one
side of the ram. At the same time the other side of the ram is subjected to oil
pressure, which builds up sufficiently to move the road wheel and return the torsion
bar to no – torque position. During this stage the oil displaced from the uncompressed
side of the ram is returned to the reservoir.
On occasion when the resistance to road wheel movement is excessive, the oil
pressures build up to its maximum. At this pressure a relief valve fitted inside the
pump opens and allows the oil to return to pump inlet.

The rack and pinion design is a simple design. However it is still susceptible to various
problems in particular to leaks. If the bellows are ripped or are unable to keep the
contaminant’s away then it can cause damage to oil seal and subsequent leaks.
One complaint, which can be present, is that the steering may be stiff and jerky when
the unit is cold and as the vehicle is driven/ warmed the power assist gradually comes
back. It normally indicates that grooves worn into the bore of the pinion aluminum
housing by hard control valve seals.
Wear in the centre housing causes the fluid to leak around the rack piston. Causing
either steering wander or lack of straight-ahead stability. Another cause of steering
wander and erratic control often accompanied by clumping, thunking noise is the
deterioration of rack mounting bushings.
Fluid levels can be hard to locate. Sometimes you will see a low level in the pump
reservoir but no evidence of escaping liquid. Squeeze the bellows and you will
probably find that they are full of liquid. To confirm if that side of the rack is the
culprit, then remove the both the bellows, clean the rack housing and then operate
the system to observe the seepage directly.
It should be mentioned that a rusty input shaft U joint or deteriorated flexible

textile/rubber coupling could imitate rack problems.
After attending to the repairs it critical that the system be completely flushed
completely. Disconnect the return line from the pump and put in a container, then
disable the injection (remove the wire from the shut off solenoid) and crank the
engine. Add fresh fluid until you get a clear flow from the line. Take care that the
reservoir does not run dry during the flushing. Failure to do so will result in
premature failure of the repaired unit.)

The possible causes for the power steering complaints are tabulated below:
Problem Possible Causes Corrections

Objectionable Noisy relief valve in There is some noise in all
Hiss hydraulic pump. Steering the power steering system.
gear noise valve noise is One of the most common is a
transmitted trough the hissing sound most evident
steering column or open-air at stand still parking. Hiss is
passages in the area where a high frequency noise that
the column or controls pass is present in every valve and
through the floor into the results from high velocity
engine compartment. fluid passing valve orifice
edges. There is no
relationship between this
noise and the steering gear
performance. DO not replace
the intermediate shaft or the
steering gear unless the
noise is too objectionable.
Check the dashboard seals
between the drivers area
and under hood to eliminate
open space/ gaps
Rattle or 1. Gear loose on frame. Check the gear mounting

chuckle noise in bolts. Torque the bolts to
Steering Gear specifications.
2. Steering linkage Check the IBJ and OBH

looseness. for wear.
3. Pressure hose touching Adjust the hose position.

other parts of the Do not bend the tubing
vehicle. by hand.
4. Loose IBJ or OBJ Replace.

5. Improper over centre- Adjust to specification
clearance. A slight rattle
may occur on turns
because of increased
clearance off the high
point. This is normal and
clearance must not be
reduced below specified
limits to eliminate this
slight rattle.
Excessive wheel 1. Air in the steering. Add oil to the pump
Kick Back or reservoir and bleed.
Loose Steering
2. Steering Gear Mounting Tighten attaching bolts
loose. to the specified torque.
Replace loose parts.

3. Front wheel Bearings Adjust the wheel
Incorrectly adjusted or bearings or replace as
worn. required.
Adjust to specifications
4. Steering Gear
improperly adjusted.
Dismantle and assemble

5. Damaged or worn the steering gear as
steering Gear. specified.
6. Worn or damaged rubber
bushing for mounting
steering gear Replace the rubber
bushings.
Vehicle leads to 1. Front end misaligned. Adjust to specifications.
one side or the
Other (keep in 2. Unbalanced steering Replace the gear Valve.
mind the road gear valve. If this is the
condition and cause steering effort will
wind vary light in direction of
conditions.) Test lead and heavy in
the vehicle , opposite direction.
Going in Both 3. Steering shaft rubbing Align the column.
directions , On a with the ID of the shaft
Flat road tube Adjust as required.
4. Steering linkage not
level.
Momentary 1. Low oil level in Add steering fluid as

Increase in Reservoir. required.
steering Effort Tighten or replace belt.
When Turning 2. Pump Belt slipping.
the Wheel
Quickly To the Refer to pump test.
Right or Left 3. High Internal leakage’s (
Steering Gear or Pump)
Poor return of 1. Tyres under inflated. Inflate to specified

Steering pressure.
2. Lower coupling flange
against the steering gear Loosen the pinch bolt
adjuster and assemble.
3. Steering wheel rubbing
against directional signal Adjust the steering
housing. column.
4. Tight or seized steering
shaft bushing/bearings.
5. Steering joint or linkage Replace the bearings.

binding.
6. Steering column Re-lubricate/ replace the
misaligned. joints.
Align the steering
7. Lack of lubrication in column.
the suspension ball.
8. Improper front end
alignment. Re-lubricate/ replace the
9. Steering gear adjusted ball joints.
too tight. Check & adjust to
10. Kink in return hose. specifications.
Adjust the preload.
Replace the hose.
Steering wheel 1. Low oil level in Pump. Add fluid as required.

Surges or Jerks
when Turning 2. Loose pump belt. Adjust tension as per
with engine specification.
running, 3. Sticky flow control Clean the control valve
especially during valve. or replace the pump.
Parking. Refer to the power
4. Insufficient pump steering System Test.
pressure
Hard steering 1. Low tyre pressures Adjust the tyre pressure.
effort in both
the directions 2. Lack of lubrication is Lubricate & re-lubricate
suspension or ball joint. at proper intervals.
3. Steering gear to column Align the steering

misalignment. column.
4. Pump belt slipping.
Tighten or replace belt.
5. High internal leakage.
Fill to proper level and
6. Sticky flow control inspect for leaks.
valve. Refer to pump Pressure
test.
7. Lower coupling flange Replace or clean the
rubbing against steering valve.
gear.
8. Steering gear preload Loosen the pinch bolt
high. and assemble correctly.
Adjust the preload in
9. Improper front end Straight-ahead position.
alignment Check & adjust to
specifications.
Foaming Milky Air in the fluid and loss of Check for leak & correct.
Looking Power fluid due to internal pump Bleed the system. Extremely
Steering Fluid. leakage causing overflow cold temperature will cause

Low Level and aeration problems if the oil
Possible low level is low. If oil level is
pressure correct and the pump still
foams then check for the air
leakage caused by loose
joint
Low oil Pressure 1. Check for kinks in the Remove the kinks or
due to hose. replace the hoses.
Restriction in Remove the foreign
the Hose 2. Foreign objects stuck in object or replace the
the hose. hose.
Chirp Noise in Pump belt slipping Tighten or replace Belt

Steering Gear
Belt squeal Pump belt slipping Tighten or replace Belt
( Particularly
noticeable at
Full wheel
Travel &
Standstill
Parking)
Growl noise in 1. Scored pressure plate, Replace Pump.
Steering Pump thrust plate or rotor
2. Extreme Wear of cam Replace Pump.
ring
Growl noise in 1. Low oil level Add the power steering
Steering Pump fluid.
2. Air in the oil. Poor
pressure hose Bleed the system.
connection.
Rattle or knock 1. Pump Vanes sticking in Replace pump, flush
noise in steering rotor slot system.
Pump 2. Pressure hose touching
other parts of the Adjust hose position.
Vehicle.
Swish Noise in Faulty flow control valve Replace pump.
steering Pump
Whine Noise In Pump shaft bearing scored Replace pump.
Steering Pump
Low oil Pressure 1. Flow control valve stuck Replace pump.
Due to Steering or inoperative
pump 2. Pressure plate not flat Replace pump.
against the cam ring.
3. Extreme wear of the Replace pump, flush
cam ring. system.
4. Air in oil. Locate source of leak &
5. Low oil level correct. Bleed the
system.
6. Pump belt slipping Add power steering fluid

as required.
7. Damaged hoses or Tighten or replace belt
steering gear as required
Replace as necessary.


The lubricant level should be checked every 10000 KMs with the vehicle un-laden and
in a level ground. The lubricant level should be between the maximum and minimum
mark. The fluid level should be checked with the engine in off condition. If the oil
level is excess it will tend to come out from the filler cap in use lubricant meeting oils
specification of ATF (Automatic Transmission Fluid. The brand names have been
specified in the Operators Manual and also in the end of the Section.
In Car repairs –
The following repairs can be carried out without removing the assemblies.
a) Removal and refitment of out board Joints (OBJ)
b) Greasing of the OBJ (In case the rubber gaiter is torn.)
c) Removal & Refitment of the Steering Wheel.
d) Checking for Steering Play.
e) Steering Wheel - Centralize
f) Bleeding the system.
a) Removal and re-fitment of Track rod ends/ Outer Ball Joint
Loosen the wheel nuts. Lift up

the vehicle and remove the
front wheels.
Slacken the track rod end lock

nut.
Remove the castle nut split pin

and remove the castle nut.
Remove the track rod end using
the special tool.
Remove the track rod end.

While removing the track rod
end, make a note of the number
of turns required to remove the
end.
While fitting back the end or
fitting a new end turn it back
the same number of threads

b) Greasing of the track rod end/Outer Ball Joint (Only if the rubber gaiter is torn.)
After removal of the track rod

end
Remove the circlip
Fill the joint with about 10

grams of grease
Fit a new gaiter and put the lock
c) Removal & Refitment of the Steering Wheel
Remove the horn cover, using

the screw driver
Remove the lock nut, using the
22 mm socket
d) Checking and adjusting the Steering Play
After driving the vehicle in a straight

road, check the wheel spokes for
angular play.
25/30 If more than 25 to 30 degrees then

degrees check -Tie-rod end ball joint or steering
gear inner ball joint or
Lower arm ball joint or universal joint
Replace the defective part/parts
While checking ensure that the engine

is in off condition and wheels are in
Straight Ahead Position ( SAP position)

e) Steering Wheel – Centralization
This procedure for centralizing the Steering wheel is valid only if the misalignment
of the spokes is less than 30 degrees. In other words this procedure is only for fine-
tuning the steering wheel position not for gross error. If it is more 30 degrees then
remove the steering wheel and initially realign to less than 30 degrees.
To check for the centralization of the

steering wheel. Drive the vehicle on a
level road surface; note the angular
position (misalignment of the steering
wheel spokes.
Lift up the vehicle
Mark the position of the track rods and

the track rod ends
Slacken the track rod end lock nuts and

also remove the gaiter outer retaining
clips.

Clock
wise Anti
clock
Rotate both track rods in the same
error direction approximately 30 degrees for
wise
every 1-degree of steering
misalignment error.
If the steering wheel has an

anticlockwise angular error then both
track rods must be rotated clockwise-
when viewed from the left – hand side
of the vehicle
Clock If the steering wheel has an clockwise

wise angular error then both track rods must
Anti
error
clock be rotated anticlockwise- when viewed
wise from the left – hand side of the vehicle
Check the front wheel alignment (Toe

In) after the steering wheel has been
centralized
f) Bleeding the system
Before starting the Bleeding operation, ensure that the Vehicle is in level ground, and
the reservoir is filled to the maximum specified.
As with any hydraulic system ensure that the recommended fluids only are used.
Ensure that no dirt enters the system while topping up. Before opening the reservoir
cap, wipe the area with a cloth.
Ensure that the front wheels are

jacked up and wheels are lightly
touching the ground.
If this is not done then the

steering linkage and components
will be under undue stress.
Even with the wheels partly

jacked up, do not hold the
steering in fully locked position for
more than 10 second. Failure to
do so may damage the pump

beyond repairs.
Start the engine.
Rotate the steering wheel from lock
to lock 3 to 4 times.
Check if the oil in the reservoir has

dropped down drastically- if so
check for any leaks.
Check if any foaming/ frothing is

taking place.
Repeat the rotation from lock to
lock till the foaming subsides
If the foaming is not subsiding after
¾ of the above cycle, check for the
tightness of the hoses in particular
the reservoir to the steering pump
and later the steering gear to
reservoir. The loose connection in
these pipes will allow air to sucked
into the system.
After completing the bleeding
operation, ensure that with the
engine running the oil level is
between the maximum and
minimum mark
Close the cap
Dismantling & Assembly of the Steering Gear –

We do not suggest overhaul of the steering gear.

Working principle of the Steering Pump –

The steering pump is non-serviceable. Hence it cannot be repaired.
The pump is a constant flow, vane type incorporating a flow control valve (with an
integrated relief valve) and it is gear driven by engine. The power steering pump
consists of housing, drive shaft, cartridge assembly & bearing(s) apart from the valve.
As the pump rotates a vacuum is created at the inlet, which causes atmospheric
pressure to force the fluid in to pump from the reservoir. As the rotor rotates, the
inlet port closes and the fluid is trapped between the vans. Further movement forces
the fluid to be pressurized as the profile of the cam ring constantly reduces the
available volume. At the minimum point of the profile the chamber opens into the
outlet port.
The rotor is having 10 vanes, thus each rotation is equal to 5 pumping action. The
discharge rate of the power steering pump increases in proportion to the pump speed
increases.. The flow control valve is provided to maintain the optimum flow of the
supplied oil for power steering operation, at all engine speeds. The relief pressure will
open when the system pressure exceeds the set value. This normally happens when
the steering wheel is turned and held in the lock position.

Specifications –
Description Value
Rack & Pinion, End Take Off,
Steering Gear Type
Integral Power Assisted
Steering Gear Make Sona Koyo
LH – 75 mm & RH – 75 mm,
Rack Travel (Steering Gear)
maximum
Overall Steering Ratio 20 : 1
Total Turns Available on Input Shaft of
3.75
the Steering Gear
No. Of Steering Wheel Rotations (Lock
3.6
to Lock)
Torque required on input shaft to move
1.5 Nm
the Rack (preload)
Normal Operating Pressure 85 bar
Steering Wheel Diameter 395 mm / 365 mm

Sliding Vane Type – Positive
Power Steering Pump
displacement
Pump Make Koyo
Pump Make Delphi

Clockwise when viewed from shaft
Direction of pump rotation
end
Pump Flow 8.5 LPM @ 1000 rpm
Pump – Pressure Relief 75 kg/cm2 0r 75 bar
Pump – Drive Gear driven
Wide Operating Speed – Pump 600 rpm - 6500 rpm
Wide Operating Temp. Pump & Gear - 40 ° C to + 120 ° C
In-built System
Flow Control cum Pressure Relief Valve
7.5 +0.5 / - 0 M-pa.
in Pump
8.5 ± 0.7 lit / min @ 1500 RPM
Oil capacity – System 0.8 lts. Approx.

Description Torque Value Nm (lbf-ft)
Steering Gear Centre Bolt 120 ±10 Nm (88 ± 7 lb-ft)
Steering Gear Mounting Clamp Bolts 85 Nm (63 lb-ft)
List of the MSTs –

MST – 547
Steering wheel puller
MST – 548
Steering stand
MST – 549
Tie rod end remover
MST – 550
Socket steering pump Nut

MST – 551
Unit wrench –12 mm
Recommended Lubricants –
The recommended brand names are
DEXTRON TEXMATIC 1278 / 1888 from CALTEX ATF
Capacity is 0.8 lts.

Airbag
Content
* Airbag RHD
* Airbag LHD
Airbag RHD
Clock Spring Removal/Refitment

Procedure for checking Clock spring Continuity and replacement
To remove the clock spring for continuity checking follow the below steps:
1.) Crank the engine for making the front wheel in straight direction.
2.) Start rotating the steering wheel to extreme left.
3.) From extreme left, Start rotating the steering wheel to extreme right. This total travel will
complete 3.5 rotations of steering wheel.
4.) From extreme right side, start rotating the steering wheel for 1.75 turns to left side.
5.) This 1.75 rotation ( which you have done in step 4 ) confirms that the steering wheel is in
center of the vehicle.
6.) Stop the engine.
7.) Disconnect the Battery negative terminal.
Battery –ve
terminal
8.) Remove the Horn Pad by removing the screws on either side as shown in photo.
9.) Remove the Squib connector of DAB as shown.

10.) Unplug the 8 Pole connector ( Clock spring Vs steering wheel switches) & Horn terminal.
8 Pole connector
Horn pin
11.) Loose the steering wheel nut and remove the same from steering rod.
12.) Remove the steering wheel from steering rod. At most care to be taken while removing
the steering wheel that the connector of clock spring should not get entangled in
Steering wheel cutout.( Please ref. the attachment )
13.) Remove the connector from steering wheel slot carefully.
13.) Remove the 5 screws that fasten the shroud.

14.) Remove 4 screws of Clock spring which holes the clock spring on combination switch.
15.) Unplug the wiring harness connectors which goes to Clock spring at bottom side of
Clock spring.
8 & 4 pole connector
16.) Check the continuity of clock spring as per below mentioned.

17.)If found any discontinuity in any circuit like Cruise, Audio ctrl, Horn & airbag.
Replace new clock spring.
18.) Connect 8 Pole & 4 pole connector of wiring harness to clock spring
19.) Tighten the clock spring with four screws with 4 Nm torque.
20.) Remove the yellow colour lock. Clock spring has total 5.7 rotations. This
Yellow lock defines the center position of Clock spring. I.e. after removing the
Lock, clock spring will have 2.5 rotations on right side& 3.2 rotations on left side.
Yellow colour lock
Note: If this lock is already found broken / missing. Then to define center position
Of clock spring follow the steps from 21 to 24.
21.) Hold the clock spring rotor wire in hand as shown below & Start rotating to extreme
Left in anticlockwise direction.
22.)From extreme left point start rotating the rotor to extreme right in clockwise direction.
Clock spring will complete 5 rotations from extreme left to extreme right.
23.) From extreme right start rotating the rotor for 2.5 rotations in anticlockwise direction.
24.) This point defines the middle position of the clock spring. With this we can ensure that
clock spring will have 2.5 rotations on right side & 3.2 rotations on left side.
25.)Fix & press the shroud and fix with the help of 5 screws.
26.) Place the steering wheel on the steering rod. While placing this steering wheel ensure
8 & 4 pole connector of clock spring to taken out from slot provided on steering wheel
along with complete wiring harness.
27.) Locate the steering wheel slot in clock spring grommet.
28.) Tighten the steering wheel nut. Make sure that the steering wheel is in straight ahead
Position with front wheels.
29.) After tighten the nut, route the wire through guidelines as shown.
30.) Make the connection of 8 pole connector & horn pin.

31.) After connection route the connector as shown.
Position of connector
32.) Connect the DAB squib connector to the DAB.
33.) Place the horn pad.

34.) Tight the DAB screws with LN key.
35.) Re-connect the battery negative terminal to Battery.
36.) Verify that the horn works.
37.) Turn ON the Ignition and check the Audio Control through steering wheel switches
Functions.
Note: Whenever the Battery is disconnected driver door power window auto function is
Disabled.
35.) Start the engine.
36.) Learn the power window regulator as per procedure mentioned in Smart power window.
Airbag - LHD
Contents
• Necessity
• Function & Effect
• Supplementary Restraint System(SRS) Components
• Operation
• How Air bag inflators work
• Definition
• General Precautions
• Driver Air Bag (DAB)
• Passenger Air Bag (PAB)
• Shipping
• Storage
• Handling of the Pyrotechnic Assemblies
• Dos & Don’ts
• Important Safety Warnings
• FAQ
• Clock Spring Removal/Refitment

Necessity
The seat belt is a concrete device for protecting the body of a passenger in a
collision. But when the body is subjected to a large impact in the case of a
high-speed collision, the seat belt alone cannot protect the body. And
especially in the case of a serious front-end collision, the upper body tilts
forward even when it is secured with the seat belt, and the head or chest may
collide with the steering wheel or the windshield, resulting in injuries.
The SRS Air bag system is a device that reduces head and chest injuries to the
driver and passengers by inflating an airbag installed in the steering wheel or
the instrument panel when such a collision occurs, supplementing the function
of the seat belt.
Thus, the SRS Air bag system supplements the restraining and protective
functions of the seat belt. For that reason the name of the system is
Supplementary Restraint System (SRS)

FUNCTION & EFFECT
Function of Air Bag
• Absorbs Kinematics energy of occupants

• Protects occupants from injuries in case of accident
• Protects occupants from interior trims
• Protects occupants from broken glass
• Reduces occupants neck load by kinematically restraining spin of neck.
Effect
Decrease in fatality when safety system is used

(Data published by NHTSA, 1999)
When only using Seat Belt: - 45% Decrease

When only using Frontal Air Bag: - 14% Decrease
When using Seat Belt + Frontal Air Bag: - 50% Decrease

SRS Components
The SRS system consists of the following components:
• Driver side Air Bag Module

• Passenger side Air Bag Module
• Air Bag ECU
• Air Bag Warning indicator (On Instrument Cluster)
• Wiring Harness
• Driver Seat belt Pre tensioner
• Passenger Seat belt Pre tensioner
Operation
The crash sensors in the air bag ECU continuously monitor to determine if the
frontal impact is severe enough to deploy the air bags. When an impact of
sufficient force occurs, the air bag ECU sends an electrical signal to the air bag
modules which in turn rapidly ignites the energetic material and inflates the air
bag. The inflated airbag deploys out of steering wheel and glove box cover. As
the entire deployment of air bag happens in less than a second, in combination
with seat belts, it slows down the driver’s or passengers forward motion, thus
reducing the risk of head or chest injury. The air bags deflate quickly thru the
pores in the air bag cushion. Therefore air bag is not a substitute of seat belts.
To maximize your protection always wear seat belts. The SRS can function only
when the ignition key is ‘ON’.
Note: The SRS front air bags are not designed to inflate for side or rear
collisions, roll over or if it is involved in low speed frontal collision.
How Airbag Inflators Work
The intended function of an airbag is to provide supplemental restraint to

automobile occupants in the event of a collision. This is done by the rapid
inflation of a cushion by non-toxic gas that is generated and/or released by an
inflator in response to an electrical signal from a collision detecting sensor(s).
The inflated cushion helps to absorb the energy of a driver or passenger and
prevent body contact with the vehicle structure.


Definitions:
SRS- Supplementary Restraint System
DAB- Driver Airbag assembly
SW- Steering Wheel assembly
PAB- Passenger Airbag Assembly
Lower Cover PAB: Part of the Instrument Panel directly below PAB
RP-Rotary Pretensioner used in the retractor of Scorpio Front Seat Belt

Assembly
SB-Seat Belt assembly
Pyrotechnics – any of the above described devices (DAB, PAB or RP)

General Precautions:
Please read the following precautions carefully before performing the airbag
system service. Observe the instructions described in this manual, or the
airbags could accidentally deploy and cause damage or injuries.
• Except when performing electrical inspections, always turn the ignition

switch OFF and disconnect the negative cable from the battery, and wait
at least three minutes before beginning work.
• Use the replacement parts which are manufactured to the same

standards as the original parts and quality. Do not install used SRS parts
from another vehicle. Use only new parts when making SRS repairs.
• Carefully inspect any SRS part before you install it. Do not install any
part that shows signs of being dropped or improperly handled, such as
dents, cracks or deformation.
• Before removing any of the SRS parts (including the disconnection of the
connectors), always disconnect the SRS connector.

Driver Air Bag (DAB)
Exploded view of Driver Air Bag
Description
The Driver Air Bag Module sits centrally as a complete unit in the steering
wheel. At high speeds, the danger arises of being thrown against the steering
wheel in the event of a crash, even if the driver’s seat belt is fastened. The air
bag protects the driver against collision with the steering wheel & thus
alleviates the consequences of the accident. The deployment of DAB depends
upon the severity and direction of the frontal collisions.

Removing a fired DAB from vehicle
Most of the times, a fired airbag has to be removed from the vehicle after
accident or inadvertent deployment - before installation of the new DAB.
Fig shows a fired DAB. Now before installing a new DAB the fired DAB has to be
removed from the vehicle.
The following steps are to be followed when removing a fired

DAB from vehicle
• Rotate SW until one of the holes on the side of SW is accessible.
• Using the appropriate Allen key tool, unscrew and remove the M6 socked
head bolt from the SW.
• Turn the SW by 180 degrees to access the second bolt fixing DAB to the
SW.
• Undo and remove the second bolt the same way as described above.
Note: Two bolts once removed should not be reused as they are
precoated with dry adhesive.
• Pull out and remove the DAB from SW.
• Lift up the black tab in DAB connector with a screwdriver. Pull off the
connector and remove it from DAB.
• Discard the DAB; recycle metal and plastic components as appropriate.
• Wash hands with soap after completing the disassembly.

Removing live (non-fired) DAB from vehicle
Note: - It is recommended that the person doing the task wears an antistatic
wrist or ankle strap when handling a new airbag.
If the DAB in vehicle has not been fired, it has to be ensured that the vehicle
ignition key is in “OFF” position before and during removing DAB from the
vehicle. This is necessary in order to avoid resetting the “Airbag Fault” alarm.
Apart from the above, please follow the same procedure of “Removing a fired
DAB from vehicle”.
Assembly Procedure of Driver Air Bag (DAB)
Note: It is recommended that the person doing the task wears an antistatic
The following steps are to be followed while assembling DAB in vehicle.
• Insert the DAB connector to the airbag. Assure the correct connector
orientation is maintained, as per the below pictures. After inserting the
connector, secure it by pressing the black tab.
Note: In case the DAB connector had been melted during previous
airbag deployment, the DAB loom has to be replaced prior to airbag
installation.
• Fit the DAB into the SW cavity, and align the 3 rectangular housings in
DAB with horn switches in the SW.

• Press the DAB to fit in the SW. Assure the 3 horn switches had engaged in
the respective DAB housings.
• Rotate the SW until there would be access to one of the holes in the side
of SW. Assure that holes in DAB and SW align correctly, or otherwise use
the screwdriver to align them.
• Locate and insert M6 x 16mm long socket head screw into the hole on
the side of SW. Torque to 10 +/- 1.0 Nm.
• Rotate the SW by 180 deg and assemble the second M6 x 16mm socket
head screw the same way as described above.
• Switch the ignition “on” and assure the airbag warning lamp in the
instrument cluster is off.
• Assure the vehicle horn works correctly.

Passenger Air Bag (PAB)
Exploded View of Passenger Air Bag
Description
The Passenger Air Bag (PAB) is located above the glove box compartment.
The PAB prevents the Co-driver from serious injuries in case of accident.
The deployment of PAB depends upon the severity and direction of the frontal
collisions.

Removing a Fired PAB from vehicle
Usually the PAB has to be removed from the vehicle after it has been fired
upon accident or inadvertent deployment.
The following steps are to be followed when removing a fired

PAB from the Vehicle:
• Lift the corners of Lower Cover PAB to undo the attaching clips. Use
plastic or wooden tool for this task to avoid part damage. Remove the
Lower Cover PAB from the Instrument Panel.
• Using the appropriate spanner, undo and remove the 2 x M8 hexagonal

bolts fixing the PAB bracket to the vehicle Cross Car Beam

• Lift the PAB Cover from the Instrument Panel and pull the PAB upwards
to remove it from the Instrument Panel.
• Lift the tab from airbag connector and putt connector up to disconnect
airbag loom
• Discard the PAB; recycle metal and plastic components, as appropriate.
• Wash hands with soap after completing the disassembly.

Removing live (non-fired) PAB from vehicle
If the PAB in vehicle has not been fired, ensure the vehicle ignition is OFF
before removing airbag loom connector from the airbag. Ignition has to be also
kept OFF all the time during assembly and re-assembly – to avoid resetting the
“Airbag Fault” alarm. Apart from the above, please follow the same procedure
of “Removing a fired PAB from vehicle”.
Assembly Procedure of Passenger Air Bag (PAB)
The following steps are to be followed when installing PAB in the

vehicle:
• Insert the PAB connector to the airbag. Assure the correct connector
orientation is maintained, as per the below picture. Lock the connector
by pressing black tab.
Note: In case the PAB connector had been melted during previous
airbag deployment, replace the whole airbag loom affected.
• Place the PAB into the cavity in Instrument Panel. Align 3 location studs
in the PAB cover with relevant holes in Instrument Panel. Push the PAB
Cover down to fit into Instrument Panel.

• Locate and insert two M8 socket head screw into the holes in PAB
bracket.
Torque Specification: 18 +/- 2.0 Nm.
• Align and press to assemble the Lower Cover PAB to the Instrument
Panel.

Shipping
Shipping of the Pyrotechnic assemblies
Pyrotechnic assemblies are considered Hazardous Materials. Persons shipping

Hazardous Materials must be properly trained and must consult current
published regulations to ensure conformance to all applicable regulations.
Packaging containing Pyrotechnics must be marked appropriately, displaying

the “class” of the Hazardous Materials inside. The following picture is showing
branding of the Hazardous Materials Class 9. Scorpio
Airbags and RP SB classify to this class.

Storage
• General storage must meet state and local regulations.
• Store the SRS unit, the front impact sensor and the side impact sensors
in a cool (less than 40 C/104 F) and dry (less than 80% relative humidity,
no moisture) area.
• Keep inflators, modules and seat belt assemblies away from flame,
water, and any chemicals that may degrade the assembly material.
• Inflators, modules and seat belt assemblies should be stored in the

upright position in their original shipping container, if possible, until
installation.
• Store damaged inflators, modules and seat belt assemblies in a dry place
in limited quantities.
• It is important to store the discharged pyrotechnic inflator units in

containers, which prevent precipitation (rain, snow, etc.), from coming
in contact with the gas generant residue.
• Store the removed airbag on secure, flat surface away from any high
heat source (exceeding 85 C/185 F).
• Never perform electrical inspections to the airbags, such as measuring

resistance.
• Do not position yourself in front of the airbag assembly during removal,

inspection, or replacement.

Handling of the Pyrotechnic assemblies
1. Undeployed Pyrotechnics
a. Do not place any objects on top of Airbag Covers. These objects
may become projectiles in case of inadvertent Airbag
deployment.
b. Wear anti static straps (foot or hand) when handling Pyrotechnics.
c. Do not attempt to dismantle Pyrotechnics or their components.
d. Do not apply electrical voltage to the Pyrotechnics terminals,
especially if external loom is connected to the connector.
2. Deployed Pyrotechnics
a. Wash hands after handling the deployed pyrotechnics.
Proper Handling
Below are examples of the safest methods of holding Air bag modules
Driver Module—Hold driver module in a vertical position with right hand on cover.

Knee Bolster—Hold knee bolster module in vertical position with right hand on
cover.
Passenger Module—Hold passenger module in vertical position with lead wires at

top and left hand on cover.

Seat Belt Pretensioner—Hold seat belt pretensioner by the round tube with
the round tube end pointed away from the body and the buckle pointing
down.
Seat Belt Retractor—Hold seat belt retractor by gripping the end caps or
sides of the retractor.

Dos & Don’ts for Air Bag System
Do’s
• Do store modules in an upright position.

• Do keep modules dry.
• Do carry modules with the cover side pointing away from the body.
• Do place modules with their cover side upwards.
• Do carefully inspect modules for damage.
• Do stand to one side when connecting modules.
• Do make sure all test equipment is properly calibrated and maintained.
• Do wash hands after handling deployed air bags.
Don’ts
• Do not store highly flammable material together with modules or gas

generators.
• Do not store gas generators at temperatures exceeding 80°C.
• Do not store modules upside down.
• Do not attempt to open gas generator housing.
• Do not expose gas generators to open flame or sources of heat.
• Do not place anything on top of a module cover.
• Do not use damaged modules.
• Do not touch a fired module or gas generator for at least 10 minutes.
• Do not use any electrical probes on the wiring circuit.

IMPORTANT SAFETY WARNINGS
• As the solid propellant burns, the airbag module may heat up and vent
hot gas.
• Always wear gloves and safety glasses during handling of pyrotechnic

devices.
• Because of peak noise levels during deployment of pyrotechnics, there is

a potential risk to hearing. Always wear ear protection during
deployment.

• Always wash hands after handling deployed pyrotechnic devices.
• Deployment and associated activities shall only be performed by trained

personnel.

Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)
Q: What are the concerns that need to be reviewed if handling

inflators/modules in a processing facility?
Ans: Safe work practices should be reviewed to eliminate the potential
hazards that may result in an unplanned deployment. Examples of potential
hazards to review are:
• Electrical equipment and wiring that could come into contact with the
connector lead wire or initiator pins.
• Possible pinch points that could damage or tear the lead wire
• Materials that buildup large amounts of energy (e.g. plastics) that could
be discharged in the form of electrostatic energy
• High heat sources that exceed 1500 C
Q: What would cause an airbag to accidentally discharge?

Ans: The probable causes are as mentioned below:
• Introduction of an electrical energy source
• Heating the metal airbag inflator canister to a temperature greater than
150° C
• Drilling, sawing, puncturing, and shearing in the igniter/squib area.
Q: How much force does it take to puncture an inflator wall?

Ans: The airbag inflator vessel wall thickness and pressure containment
specifications are such that the force required to puncture the inflator wall is
likely greater than would be experienced under reasonable handling conditions
on a production line. Power equipment (e.g., robotics, drills, pisses, metal
shears, etc.) may be able to puncture the inflator wall. Care should be taken to
prevent unplanned or unsafe acts by power equipment or external penetration
of the inflator wall.
Q: What is the cooling time of the inflator if one deploys?

Ans: The airbag module attachment components can be handled within
minutes following deployment. When handling inflators, you should allow up to
45 minutes cooling time in order to handle it without the hazard of burning the
skin (<40° C).

Procedure for checking Clock spring Continuity and replacement
To remove the clock spring for continuity checking follow the below steps:
1.) Crank the engine for making the front wheel in straight direction.
2.) Start rotating the steering wheel to extreme left.
3.) From extreme left, Start rotating the steering wheel to extreme right. This total travel will
complete 3.5 rotations of steering wheel.
4.) From extreme right side, start rotating the steering wheel for 1.75 turns to left side.
5.) This 1.75 rotation ( which you have done in step 4 ) confirms that the steering wheel is in
center of the vehicle.
6.) Stop the engine.
7.) Disconnect the Battery negative terminal.
Battery –ve
terminal
8.) Remove the Horn Pad by removing the screws on either side as shown in photo.
9.) Remove the Squib connector of DAB as shown.

10.) Unplug the 8 Pole connector ( Clock spring Vs steering wheel switches) & Horn terminal.
8 Pole connector
Horn pin
11.) Loose the steering wheel nut and remove the same from steering rod.
12.) Remove the steering wheel from steering rod. At most care to be taken while removing
the steering wheel that the connector of clock spring should not get entangled in
Steering wheel cutout.( Please ref. the attachment )
13.) Remove the connector from steering wheel slot carefully.
13.) Remove the 5 screws that fasten the shroud.

14.) Remove 4 screws of Clock spring which holes the clock spring on combination switch.
15.) Unplug the wiring harness connectors which goes to Clock spring at bottom side of
Clock spring.
8 & 4 pole connector
16.) Check the continuity of clock spring as per below mentioned.

17.)If found any discontinuity in any circuit like Cruise, Audio ctrl, Horn & airbag.
Replace new clock spring.
18.) Connect 8 Pole & 4 pole connector of wiring harness to clock spring
19.) Tighten the clock spring with four screws with 4 Nm torque.
20.) Remove the yellow colour lock. Clock spring has total 5.7 rotations. This
Yellow lock defines the center position of Clock spring. I.e. after removing the
Lock, clock spring will have 2.5 rotations on right side& 3.2 rotations on left side.
Yellow colour lock
Note: If this lock is already found broken / missing. Then to define center position
Of clock spring follow the steps from 21 to 24.
21.) Hold the clock spring rotor wire in hand as shown below & Start rotating to extreme
Left in anticlockwise direction.
22.)From extreme left point start rotating the rotor to extreme right in clockwise direction.
Clock spring will complete 5 rotations from extreme left to extreme right.
23.) From extreme right start rotating the rotor for 2.5 rotations in anticlockwise direction.
24.) This point defines the middle position of the clock spring. With this we can ensure that
clock spring will have 2.5 rotations on right side & 3.2 rotations on left side.
25.)Fix & press the shroud and fix with the help of 5 screws.
26.) Place the steering wheel on the steering rod. While placing this steering wheel ensure
8 & 4 pole connector of clock spring to taken out from slot provided on steering wheel
along with complete wiring harness.
27.) Locate the steering wheel slot in clock spring grommet.
28.) Tighten the steering wheel nut. Make sure that the steering wheel is in straight ahead
Position with front wheels.
29.) After tighten the nut, route the wire through guidelines as shown.
30.) Make the connection of 8 pole connector & horn pin.

31.) After connection route the connector as shown.
Position of connector
32.) Connect the DAB squib connector to the DAB.
33.) Place the horn pad.

34.) Tight the DAB screws with LN key.
35.) Re-connect the battery negative terminal to Battery.
36.) Verify that the horn works.
37.) Turn ON the Ignition and check the Audio Control through steering wheel switches
Functions.
Note: Whenever the Battery is disconnected driver door power window auto function is
Disabled.
35.) Start the engine.
36.) Learn the power window regulator as per procedure mentioned in Smart power window.
Immobilizer
Contents
Definition
System components involved
Immobilizer System Work Flow.
Learning.
DTC – explanation.

Description –
Immobilizer is Vehicle safety system against Vehicle Theft. Vehicle should not run of
its own power incase of un-authorized usage. Safety against the vehicle theft even if
the access into the vehicle is gained. Immobilizer is a major security device to prevent
the vehicle being operated by an un authorized person. An electronic immobilizer is
part of
the engine control unit (ECU), and prevents the vehicle from being started unless it
recognizes signals from a right remote key.
Advantages –
• Enhanced security
• Immobilization through Engine Management system.
Integrated Key with transponder chip
Immobilizer ECU (ICU)
Engine
Management
ECU (EMS ECU)

Transponder consists of –
• Chip without battery.

• Glued into the key fob.
• Communicates with ICU through RF.
• Each Transponder is configured with Mahindra specific codes
during the manufacturing.
• Only the Mahindra Specific Transponder can be used with Immobilizer.
• Identified by unique 32 bit Identifier.
Immobilizer ECU (ICU) is –
• Fitted in the IGN lockset.

• Securely Communicates with the Transponder and identifies the validity
of the transponder through RF.
• ICU will communicate only to the Mahindra specific transponders.
• Securely communicates to the EMS and conveys the key status
information over CAN.
• Securely communicates with the ICU and identifies the valid
Immobilizer ECU.
• Based on the key status it starts/ immobilizes the engine.

Immobilizer System Work Flow


DTC-
Code Label
90A0 Key is rejected by the Immobilizer ECU
90A1 Invalid Transponder password is found
90A2 No response from EMS ECU

90A3 No EMS ACK after signature mismatch
90A4 Mismatch in checksum 1
Serviceable Elements-
Replacements Learning to be repeated
Services ICU Keys with EMS Transponder ICU – EMS

lockset learning learning
Key YES YES

change
ICU YES YES YES

Change
EMS YES YES

Change
Refer to the Diagnostic Manual on Immobilser for further details on the Structure,
Learning & Error codes.

Audio System
Contents
Description
Layout and Location of controls

Description –
Audio control on steering wheel allows the driver to operate the audio system without
any disturbance and movement, while driving the vehicle. The system has four
switches which are mounted on Steering wheel.
1. SEEK (Scanning the different radio frequency, changing the track in case of CD)
Press the SEEK switch once to go up by 0.05MHz on the radio station frequencies.
Press the seek switch continuously for more than 3 Sec for AUTO Scan of radio Station.
In CD/SD CARD/ USB modes, next track can be played by pressing the switch once.
2. VOLUME + (Volume control)

To increase the volume by one point presses the VOL+ switch.
3. VOLUME - (Volume control)

To reduce the volume by one point press the VOL- switch
4. MODE: To switch between different modes in Audio system. There are five modes
available in Audio. When MODE switch is pulled once, next mode is selected in the
following sequence provided the required media are connected
- Tuner
- CD/MP3
- SD Card
- USB
- Auxiliary

General Features-
1. FM/AM/SD/USB /MP3/CD PLAYER/RECEIVER WITH AUX IN

2. 2DIN FIXED PANEL
- Avoids Audio easy theft
- Avoids Panel lost or broken problem
3. ROTATAORY VOLUME ENCODER (Endless Type)
- Contemporary design
- Easy to operate
- Rubber Grip which surrounds the Knob provides good feeling
4. Illuminated Ring around Power/Volume knob
- Better aesthetics
- Convenience in Night for driver
5. FRONT ILLUMINATED AUX IN
6. 1 REAR PRE-OUT
7. LONG STROKE ILLUMINATED PANEL SWITCH/KNOBS
- Contemporary design
- Easy to operate
8. COVERED SD/USB PORT
- Provides protection from dust & external abuse etc.
9. IN-BUILT steering switch function
10. CD IN SLOT- ILLUMINATED INDICATOR
Audio Section Features-
1. Maximum Output Power: 40WX4

2. BASS, TREBLE, BALANCE, FADER adjustment function
3. Preset DSP/TONE curves
4. Loudness ON/OFF function
5. Audio Mute
Tuner Section Features-
1. 2 FM(FM1 & FM2), 2AM(MW1 & MW2) Band, 1AUT band

2. 24 preset memories & 6 AUT memories
3. Manual & Auto Seek
4. Radio Preset Scan
5. Local/Distant Selection

SD/USB/MP3/ CD Player Section-
1. Track/file UP/Down & Forward/Reverse Function

2. Track One Reset (Top Function)
3. Track/File Scan (Intro Function)
4. Track/File Repeat Function
5. Random track/file Play Function
6. Folder Up/Down Function
7. Fast Select for MP3 files
8. Information Function for Track/MP3 file Play back
9. Mute/Pause Function
• Do not place the removed faceplate or the faceplate case in areas

exposed to direct sunlight, excessive heat or humidity. Also avoid places
with too much dust or the possibility of water splashing.
• To prevent deterioration, do not touch the terminals of the unit or
faceplate with your fingers.
• To prevent a short circuit when replacing a fuse, first disconnect the wiring
harness.
• Do not place any object between the faceplate and the unit.
• Applying spray cleaner directly to the unit or wiping the faceplate with a
hard cloth or using a volatile liquid such as thinner may scratch the surface or
erase characters.
Note –
1) Press the Power ON/OFF button available on face plate to TURN ON/OFF the Audio
system. Turning ON /OFF of Audio system is not available on Steering wheel switches.
2) In case of non functioning of Audio Control through steering wheel switches, Audio
can still be operated either through Face plate or Remote.

Cruise Control
Contents
Introduction
Description
Care of the system
Electrical Circuit Diagram
Diagnosis

Introduction
Cruise control known as speed control or Auto cruise is a system to automatically
control the speed of the vehicle. It enables the driver to maintain a constant road
speed without using the accelerator pedal. To activate cruise, the vehicle speed must
be greater than 40 km/h and engine speed should be greater than 1200 rpm.
Need for the feature -
• Its usefulness for long drives across sparsely populated roads results in better
fuel efficiency.
• To maintain the lane speed limit.
Operating Principle -
Cruise Control system works on the closed loop system principal. System controls the
fuel injection of Engine depending on the feedback signal of speed of the vehicle, to
maintain the SET speed of vehicle.
Cruise
switches
Engine Clutch
ECU Brake
Acc. Pedal
Vehicle
speed
sensor
Engine

System Description -
1. Switches on steering wheel.
2. Clock spring (Communication link)
3. Electronic Control unit (ECU)
8 Pole Ground
Connector Terminal
12 Pole
Connector
Clock spring

The system has four switches –
Press SET+ to go into cruise mode.
1. SET (+) To increase the set cruising speed -
• Press and hold the SET (+) switch.

• It will increase the speed of the vehicle by 1.5Km/hr, while vehicle is in
Cruise mode.
• While in Cruise mode, if pressed continuously, vehicle speed increases by
1.5Km/hr. e.g. if vehicle is running at the speed of 70 Km/hr in cruise
mode ,on pressing set (+) once ,speed will increase by 1.5 km/hr, if press
continuously the speed will also increase continuously in steps of 1.5
km/hr.
• Release the SET (+) switch as soon as the desired cruise speed has been
reached.
2. SET (-)To reduce the set cruising speed –
• Press and hold the SET (-) switch.

• It will decrease the speed of vehicle by 1.5Km/hr, while vehicle is in Cruise
mode.
• While in Cruise mode, if pressed continuously, vehicle speed decreases
continuously by 1.5Km/hr. e.g. if speed is 70 km/hr on pressing cruise (-)
once, speed will decrease by 1.5 km/hr, if press continuously the speed will
also decrease continuously in steps of 1.5 km/hr.
• Release the SET (-) switch as soon as the desired cruise speed has been
reached.
• Do remember that cruise control system will not operate at vehicle speed
below 40 km/hr.
3. RESUME/COAST (resume to the last preset speed) -
By pressing the RESUME/COAST switch, the last set cruise speed can be resumed,
provided the ignition switch is ON and the vehicle speed is above 40km/hr. e.g. If the
user activates the cruise at 90 Km/hr & runs the vehicle. After some time, user
deactivates or comes out from Cruise mode. Here if user wishes to have the same
cruise speed (i.e.90km/hr), user may press RES/COAST button, which will re-activate
the cruise mode and vehicle cruise speed will be maintained at 90km/hr
4. CRUISE (Press “cruise” button to Disengage the cruise control)
The purpose of this switch is to deactivate the cruise application by pressing the
clutch or brake pedal, or when the cruise switch is pulled up.
The preset cruise speed in system memory will automatically get cancelled when the
ignition switch is turned off.

Clock spring (Communication Link ) & Engine ECU
• All the Steering Switches are connected to Engine ECU through Clock spring.
• Clock spring is part of Steering & it acts as a communication link between
switches and engine ECU
• Clock spring takes all electrical inputs signals from steering switches & feed
to Engine ECU.
• Depending on various electrical signals from Switches, Engine ECU takes the
respective action related to the cruise application
Overtaking the vehicle in cruise mode -
Cruise Control will not work in 1st Gear & reverse gear.
2nd Gear or 3rd gear - ~30 km/hr

4th Gear or 5th gear - ~ 45 km/hr are the preferable speeds in each gear above
which the Cruise Control can be comfortably operated.
If the foot is kept on Accelerator Pedal, then the Cruise Control function is overridden
& the input is taken from the Accelerator.
If the Accelerator Pedal is released before 20 seconds, then the Cruise Control
function will still be active & the system will return to Cruise Control mode. If the
Accelerator Pedal is released after 20 seconds, then the system will not return to
Cruise Control mode & the driver has to reactivate the Cruise Control if owner wants
to return to the Cruise Control mode.
While driving with cruise control, never shift the gear to neutral [or] to other
gears, without pressing the clutch pedal. Otherwise engine will over run.
• DO NOT use cruise control on slippery road surfaces (rainy/icy/snow-covered),

up-hill / down-hill driving.
• DO NOT use in heavy traffic where a constant speed can not easily be
maintained.
• If the SET PLUS button is pressed, the acceleration is felt to be too fast &
vehicle goes beyond control , then press brake or clutch immediately for safety
and to come out of cruise.

Care of the system-

Though the system gives comfort on driving, driver has to be always in alert condition
to avoid accident.
ALERT CONDITIONS –
• Unpredictable Obstacles
• Sharp Turns
• Steering control
• Drowsy Feeling
Electrical Layout & Location Of Cruise Units -
Ground terminal
Clock spring 8
pole connector
Cruise buttons
12 pole Connector

CONNECTOR INFORMATION
Conne
Connecti
ctor Connector No. of
ng Wiring IC No M/F Connector view
(Pole, Position Pins
Harness
Colour
)
( 8P, W/H IP Below
Black) horn pad 1 2 3 4
- 8 F 8 7 6 5
(12P, W/H IP Below

Black) horn pad 1 2 3 4 5 6
- 12 F 12 11 10 9 8 7
(8P, W/H IP Centre

Blue) Bazel
- 8 F
IC W/H IP-
(5+2P, Engine A-PILLAR
White) Room RIGHT
5 5+2 F
IC ( W/H IP- A PILLAR

21P,Bl Engine LEFT 10 21 M
ack)
IC W/H IP- A-PILLAR

(20P, Engine LEFT 11 20 M
Grey)

S. Symptom Reason Cause Action

No.
1 Cruise 1.Due to How to check the CLUTCH
mode not non 1.Clutch switch:
working or availability switch • Check the voltage level
not getting of signal faulty between battery ground
deactivate from 2. Brake and at K58 (break out box).
d. clutch switch • Clutch press conditions no
switch faulty voltage i.e. open
brake condition.
switch to • Clutch in idle i.e. not
ECU pressed it should be
12volt.
If above ( a) condition satisfy,
clutch switch operation is ok or
else switch is faulty.
How to check the BRAKE switch:
• Check the voltage level
between battery ground
and at K17 & K 80.
• Brake in press condition
voltage should be 12 volt &
when brake in idle
condition open condition
i.e. absence of 12 volt.
• If above condition satisfy,
brake switch operation is ok
or else switch is faulty
2 Cruise 1. Due to 1. loose 1. pl check the proper connection
mode not non connectio of wiring harness connector to
working or availability n of clock clock spring connector
not getting of signal spring 2. pl check the clock spring if
deactivate from connecto damaged replaced as per the
d. steering r and standard procedure
switches wiring 3. How to check the working of
harness steering switches:
connecto • pl connect the brake out
r box at Engine ECU wiring
2. Clock harness. Do not connect the
spring other end of brake out box
damaged to the engine ECU. check
the resistance value
3. between K35 &
Steering • k32 ( resistance w.r.t to
Switches each switch is given in
faulty below table.if particular
switch or all switch do not
satisfy the condition
mentioned in table

• Pl. change the steering

switch assembly with new
one.
3 Cruise is Due to non 1.loose 1. Pl check the proper connection

not getting availability connectio of speed sensor connector and
activated of signal n of vehicle wiring harness connector.
from speed
Vehicle sensor How to confirm the speed sensor
speed connecto faulty:
sensor r • Pl run the vehicle to see
2.Speed whether the cluster shows
sensor the speed of vehicle if yes
faulty vehicle speed sensor is said
to be ok. If not change the
speed sensor and check
with the same procedure.
• Once cluster shows the
speed of vehicle, service
engineer can check the
cruise mode as per the
procedure.

TABLE for checking the resistance value w.r.t Steering switches -
S.No. Switch Switch condition Resistance in

ohms
1 All in idle condition Not pressed 4330 +/- 5%
2 SET+ Pressed 810+/- 5%
3 SET- Pressed 420+/- 5%
4 Cruise off Pressed 150+/-5%
5 Coast / RES Pressed 1630+/-5%
TABLE for checking the voltage value w.r.t. Steering switches -
Voltage should be checked across K35 & K32
S.No. Switch Switch condition Voltage in volts

1 All in idle condition Not pressed 4.2 to 4.5volt
2 SET+ Pressed 2.6 to 3 volt
3 SET- Pressed 1.8 to 2.2 volt
4 Cruise off Pressed .87 to 1.1 volt
5 Coast / RES Pressed 3.4 to 3.8 volt

Rain Light Sensor
Contents
Introduction
Description
Operating Principle
Electrical Layout
Fitment Procedure
Circuit Diagram
Diagnosis

Introduction-
The primary applications of Rain Light Sensor are
1. Automatic Switching ON/OFF the wipers
2. Infinite control of the wiper speed relative to the amount of rain
3. Automatic Switching ON / OFF the headlamps in Low light/tunnel condition RLS
provides luxury feature to customer by automatically controlling Wiper & Headlamp
system.
Need for the feature

In adverse weather conditions, this rain sensor reduces the strain on the driver by
automatically controlling the wiping process, Also light sensor is extremely useful in
conditions like tunnel entry and low light condition in a day, thus increasing both
driver comfort & safety.
System Description
The system consists of:

• RLS Sensor
• Mounting Ring / Fixing Element
• ECU / Gateway (nothing but a controller) which receives data from Sensor and
accordingly activates & deactivates Wiping System & Head-Lamp System (located
below Driver Seat)
• “AUTO LIGHT” and “AUTO RAIN” Switches on Centre Bezel

Operating principle
Light Sensing
• The ambient light detection lens picks up the light / luminous intensity in the
vicinity of the vehicle.
• The frontal light detection detects the light / luminous intensity directly in front of
the vehicle.
• With intelligent software algorithm & considering difference between ambient light
detection lens & frontal light detection length accordingly Head-lamps will get On &
OFF.
Rain Sensing
• This Rain Light sensor is based on the principle of reflection and refraction.
• This sensor has Emitters & Receivers.
• The sensor transmits infrared beams towards windscreen and light bounces back
from surface of the windscreen to the receiver.
• The light bounces back from surface of the windscreen to the receiver.
• If water in any form sticks on the outside surface of the windscreen, it disturbs the
Beams and microcontroller interprets the data and determines the wiping speed.

RLS Operation -
1. Turn ON the Ignition
2. To activate the “AUTO LIGHT” feature, press switch with Auto light symbol
3. The orange LED on the switch will be continuously ON indicating that AUTO LIGHT
feature is activated. To come out of the Auto Light we have to press the switch once
again.
4. To activate the “AUTO RAIN” feature, press switch with Auto wiper symbol .
• Once “AUTO RAIN” mode is activated, system will give one WIPE on a Windshield and
the orange LED on the switch will be continuously ON indicating that AUTO RAIN
feature is activated.
• This feature will get deactivated either by turning off the ignition or pressing the
AUTO RAIN button.
• In case of any damages / scratches to windshield, new sensor needs to be installed/
assembled.
• Old sensor can not be used on the new windshield as it is calibrated for a particular
windshield.
• In case of any damage to Sensor, new sensor needs to be installed/ assembled at
authorized service stations because sensor is a non-serviceable unit.
• Auto Head-lamps will remain “ON” until enough Light intensity is not available. Once
enough light is present, after 5 Sec Head-Lamp will go OFF. This is a designed feature
to avoid false Switching ON / OFF of Headlamp.
• Do not put any band/tape outside the sensor on windshield.
• Do not use any chemical to clean inner surface of front windshield to avoid any
damage to the sensor.

Limitations -
• There is a difference between Light intensity sensed by Sensor & by Human eye. It
may possible in the evening time Head- Lamp will get on early as sensor senses it as a
Low intensity.
This is absolutely a normal behavior. In case customer doesn't require Light, he can
switch OFF “AUTO LIGHT” mode anytime.
• After sensing the water on windshield, wiping will start automatically. It might
possible that after wiping initiated you cannot see water on windshield but still wipers
will keep on
wiping. This is because of the mist present on windshield. Human eye cannot see that
but Sensor can sense it & it will keep on wiping. This is absolutely a normal behavior.
In case customer doesn't require Wipe, he can switch OFF “AUTO RAIN” mode anytime.
• Sensor cannot detect difference between water & mud, ice, snow, oil etc. In these
cases sensor may not behave properly and customer can switch OFF “AUTO RAIN”
mode manually.
Follow me home lamp –

In order to help the driver / passenger, while getting out of the vehicle during night
time, the headlight will light up for maximum 30 seconds. This feature will get
activated only when “Auto Light” switch is pressed which is mounted on centre bezel.
At low intensity, on turning off the ignition and door opening, this feature will get
activated for 30 seconds.

Electrical Layout & Location of RLS Units –

Auto Light Switch
Rain/Light Sensor and mounting ring (fixing element)

RLS Sensor Fitment Procedure –



Diagnosis –
S. No. Problem Cause Solution
1 No automatic • “AUTO” Check whether “AUTO” mode
Wiping after mode not for RLS is activated. (Put left
Rain start activated lever of Combination Switch in
• No Power to “AUTO” mode as marked on
Controller Lever)
Make sure all electrical
connections (i.e. Controller,
Sensor) are connected.
2 No automatic • “AUTO” Check whether “AUTO” mode
Head-Lamp mode not for RLS is activated. (Put left
Switch-ON activated lever of Combination Switch in
after entering • No Power to “AUTO” mode as marked on
in Tunnel / Controller Lever)
Basement Make sure all electrical
connections (i.e. Controller,
Sensor) are connected.
3 No initial Wipe • RLS Gateway Check whether RLS Gateway
after putting connector is not is connected to W/H.
RLS in Auto connected. Check whether RLS sensor is
Mode connected to W/H.
• RLS Sensor Check whether Wiper circuit
connector is is ok as per TC4 check list for
not connected Wiping System.
Check supply pin (Battery B+)
for RLS Sensor.
• Error in Check Ground Pin of RLS
Wiper circuit Sensor.
Check crimping of Wiper in
Connectors at Sensor &
Gateway End.
4 In “AUTO” Sensor sensing This is absolutely OK behavior
mode, Head- limitation below of Sensor. There is a difference
Lamps get 800LUX between actual Human Eye
switch-ON Light (LUX) Sensing & Sensor
before time. Light (LUX) Sensing.
(Roughly 20 Whenever ambient light
Min early at intensity drops below 800 LUX,
Twilight RLS will Switch-ON headlamps
Condition) in Auto mode.
If driver / owner doesn’t
require Head-Lamp, he can
come out of “AUTO” mode by
shifting Left lever of
Combination Switch.

5 In “AUTO” • As per design As per the Homologation

mode specifications requirement,
Headlamps get In “AUTO” mode Headlamps
Switch-ON in will always get Switch-ON in
Low Beam only. Low
Beam.
High Beam option is not
available for “AUTO” mode.
If user / customer want to
put
Headlamp in High Beam, he
can
always manually Switch – ON
head lamps by usual method
and activate the same.
(Note: Once manually
headlamps are ON, you are
out of “AUTO” mode hence
automatic wiping &automatic
Head-lamp ON-OFF will not
work).
6 In daytime • Manual Please check whether
bright light Switch for Manual
condition, Head-Lamp is Switch, for Headlamps is OFF
Headlamps ON. at
remain “ON” • RLS Sensor on Right Leaver of Combination
after Windshield is Switch.
activating covered with Please check whether RLS
“AUTO” mode Cloth /cardboard sensor
/ is not covered with any Cloth /
Sun Film /any cardboard / Sun film / shadow
kind of shadow.
7 In Automatic • Dirty / sticky Please check whether
Wiping Windshield in Windshield area above sensor is
condition, Sensor Area clean. It should be free form
wipers doesn’t dirt, dust, oil, sticky material
wipe with Rain etc.
Intensity RLS system is designed for
Speed. Automatic Wiping as per Rain
Intensity Speed. But user/
customer requirement will vary
from person to person.
At drizzling rain, some
customer may not feel to
Switch-ON wipers or some may
feel that wiping is required.
The wiping intensity is fixed for
Optimum Speed pattern & it is
fixed. The Customer can not
change it. If he needs faster /

slower wiping, he can switch to

Manual Wiping by going in high
/
Low Wipe mode.
8 In “Auto” • High amount RLS Sensor is very sensitive

mode though of moisture in detecting water. In Rainy
there is no water present in Season, after wiping water on
on the air windshield though we are not
windshield, able to see the water on
wipers keep on windshield, a thin layer in
wiping. terms of moisture gets
accumulated on Sensor area.
This also detected by Sensor as
Water and it keeps on Wiping.
This kind of behavior is more
common in Rainy Season since
there is lot of moisture present
in atmosphere. If require, in
such condition user can
manually switch-OFF Wipers by
coming out of “AUTO” mode.
• Damaged Check the wiper blade for
Wiper Blades wear.
If the wiper blade can not
wipe the windshield uniformly
and clearly, replace the wiper
blade with new one
9 In “Auto” Damaged Wiper Check the wiper blade for
mode though Blades wear. If the wiper blade can
rain intensity is not wipe the windshield
less, wiper uniformly and clearly, replace
keeps on the wiper blade with new one.
wiping for long
duration
10 Erratic Sensing • Air Gap Check whether there is any
for Rain & developed air gap between RLS Sensor &
Light Between Sensor Windshield.
& Check whether any water
Windshield droplet / dust / dirt is present
• Water / Dust between RLS Sensor &
/ Dirt windshield
accumulated For above both conditions,
Between Sensor we need to replace complete
& sensor with New One.
Windshield
11 RLS is sensing • Error in Check whether Lighting
Rain only no Wiper circuit System / Wiping System is ok
Light or vice a • Error in as per TC4 checklist.
versa. Head-Lamp
Circuit
12 Erratic behavior • Snow/Fog/ Snow / Fog / Smog is a form

in Smog of Water.
Snow / Fog / Sensor can not exactly
Smog. differentiate between water &
Snow / Fog / Smog. This is a
limitation of RLS. In case of
erratic sensing in such
conditions, please Switch-OFF
“AUTO” mode of RLS.

Reverse Parking Assistance System
Contents
Description
Operating principle
Electrical Layout and Location of RPAS unit
RPAS Operation
Diagnosis

Description –
Reverse Parking Assistance system is an indicating system, which detects the obstacle
behind the vehicle above the ground level and alerts the driver with the distance and
direction of the obstacle along with the alert sound while reversing the vehicle
Need for the feature -

- To indicate the driver about the obstacle behind the vehicle which cannot be viewed
by normal IRVM and Side view mirrors while taking reverse.
- To avoid accidents of the vehicle while taking reverse.
- To avoid hitting the child playing behind the vehicle while reversing the vehicle.
Operating Principle -
It works on ultrasonic principle, In case of any obstacles lying behind the vehicle up to
maximum distance defined from the rear bumper i.e. 120 cm, obstacle height should
be 30 cm from the ground.
Sensor height (from the centre of the sensor) is above 57.8 cm from ground level in un
laden condition and 44.5 cm in fully laden condition, waves get disturbed and are
reflected back to sensor and sensor transmits the signal to ECU which converts data
into Audio/Visual alarm to driver.
The audible warning begins when reversing vehicle from a distance of about 120 cm.
The smaller the distance, longer will be the beep.
• High sensitivity
• - System automatically gets activated when the vehicle is shifted to reverse gear.
• The system generates both audible and visual warning on IRVM when the vehicle
comes within 120cm of the obstacle.
• Display with car image in IRVM provides the distance in cm and the direction of the
obstacle (left or right side of the vehicle)
• 3 sensors provide the maximum coverage across the width of the vehicle.
• Uses ultrasonic frequency for accuracy
Specifications –
• Operating temperature range: 35-110°C
• 3 detection zones: Less than 50, 50-70, 70-120 cm
Maximum Detection Distance –

1st zone: 120cm – 70cm – Green indication with corresponding distance
2nd zone: 70cm – 50cm - Green & Orange indication with corresponding distance
3rd zone: Less than 50cm – Green, Orange & Red indication with STOP indication.
System Description
Reverse Parking Assistance system consists of:
• Electronic Control unit (ECU)
• Sensors (3 numbers fitted at the rear bumper)
• Internal Rear View Mirror (IRVM) with car image and buzzer integrated.

Electrical Layout & Location of RPAS Unit –

RPAS Operation -
Step by step approach –
1 Turn ON the ignition
2 Car image will appear on the left side of the

IRVM with green and orange indications
blinking 3 times confirming the system
healthiness.
3 Shift the gear to Reverse and move the
vehicle slowly.
4 -If the obstacle is more than 120 cm from the
rear bumper, then the system will not show
any indication in the IRVM and it will not give
any beep sound also.
-No directional indication.
5 If the obstacle comes at 120cm or less from
the rear bumper, system will start giving
indication with beep sound to the user.
6 - If obstacle distance from the rear bumper is
in between 120cm to 70cm
- Directional indicator will blink Green in the
corresponding direction of the obstacle and
the distance will be displayed on right side of
IRVM with the nearest multiple value of 5 like
75, 80, 85, 90, 95, 100, 105, 110, 105, 120.
- Beep sound will come with longer interval
between the beeps.
7 Obstacle in between 120cm to 70cm
GREEN : Blink
ORANGE: OFF
RED : OFF
in between 70cm to 50cm,
- Directional indicator in the IRVM will blink
Green & Orange in the corresponding
direction of the obstacle and the distance
will be displayed on right side of IRVM with
the nearest multiple value of 5 like 70, 65,
60, 55, 50.
- Beep sound will come with shorter interval
between the beeps.
9 Obstacle in between 70cm to 50cm
GREEN : Blink
ORANGE : Blink
RED : OFF


below 50cm
- Directional indicator will be ON with
Green, Orange and Red in the corresponding
direction of the obstacle and the distance
indicator will display STOP continuous beep
sound showing danger beyond this point.
11 Obstacle in less than 50cm
GREEN : ON
ORANGE : ON
RED :ON

Limitations -
• System cannot sense the wire mesh, handrail or small objects.
• System will give wrong signal on reversing the vehicle on grasslands and bumpy
roads.
• System cannot sense the obstacle like cotton or surface which absorbs supersonic
easily.
• System may malfunction or may not function properly when the same frequency of
the system (40 KHZ) supersonic sound is created by other systems like metal sound,
high pressure emission rise or horn sound to sensor.
• The system may malfunction on a plain ground to ramp or vice versa
• System may give wrong signal by sensing the ground when the bumper is tilted more
from the normal position.
• System operation is dependent on the reflection angle of the obstacle.
• System may give false alarm during the heavy rain conditions and during the snow
conditions and heavy wind conditions.
• System may give wrong signal when the vehicle is in overloaded condition by sensing
the ground.
• System will not sense the pot holes or the trenches or drainages which are below the
ground level.
• This system is designed to be an aid and should not replace the need to drive
carefully. Under no circumstances manufacturer will accept any responsibility or liable
for any direct or indirect, incidental or consequential damage, or for any injuries
resulting
from installing or use of this system.
• This system is not designed to prevent contact with small or moving objects. It is
designed to provide a warning to assist the driver in detecting large stationary objects
when moving in reverse at parking speed of approximately less than 5 Km/ Hr.
• The reverse parking assistance system may have reduced performance or get
activated during the inclement weather.
• To help in avoiding personal injury, always use caution when in reverse and when
using the Reverse Assistance System.
• Please practice reverse parking using different obstacles to grasp this product
performance.
• Clean the sensors make them free from ice for proper working of the system.
• Pressing the sensor on active region may damage the sensor & hamper its sensing
range, in turn causing the system to malfunction.

Diagnosis -
Sr. Problem Possible causes Resolution
No.
1 Display of A. No power 1. Verify the supply and

CAR image is supply to the IRVM ground wire in the IRVM
not connector is connected
appearing in properly.
the IRVM 2. Check for the Fuse to
when the IRVM is not blown out.
switch is in 3. Check for the short of the
'ACC' power and the ground wire.
position B. IRVM may be 1. Verify with the new IRVM
faulted
2 Display of A. Signal from the 1. Verify the controller
the CAR controller is not connector whether it is
image going to the mirror connected properly
appeared 2. Verify with the new
and gone Controller
OFF B. Controller may 1. Verify with the new
immediately be faulted controller
2. Verify with new sensors.
3 Car image in A. Signal from the 1. Check whether the
the IRVM is sensor is not controller connector is
appearing coming to the connected properly.
but the 3 controller 2. Check whether the sensor
blinks of the connector is connected
Green and properly to the wiring
Orange LED harness of the sensor.
of the B. Controller may 1. Verify with the new
distance be faulted controller
indicators C. Sensors may be 1. Verify with the new
not coming Faulty. sensors.
on both
sides
4 Car image in A. Signal from the 1. Check whether the
the IRVM is Corresponding corresponding sensor
appearing sensor is not connector is connected
but the 3 coming to the properly.
blinks of the controller 2. Check whether the wires
Green and in pin 7 and pin 15 of the
Orange LED controller connector are
of the connected properly.
distance 3. Check whether the
indicators controller connector is
not coming connected properly.
on single B. Corresponding 1. Verify with the new
side side sensor may be sensor on the corresponding
faulted side.
5 Car image A. Signal from the 1. Check whether reverse
with 3 blinks Reverse switch is lamp is glowing during
of the Green not coming to the Reverse, if not; the problem
and Orange controller (pin 1) is in the Reverse switch.
LED 2. Check the voltage at the
appearing pin 1 to the ground. If the
during voltage is not within 12+/-
Ignition ON, 4V, then the problem is in
but the the Reverse switch wiring
system is harness.
not sensing Change the corresponding
the obstacle wiring harness.
during the B. Controller may 1. Check with the new
Reverse. be faulted Controller.
6 False alarm with A. Sensors are 1. Gently clean the sensor
display and buzzer blocked with mud, for any foreign materials
Sounds sometimes snow or ice and don't scratch the
without the sensor.
obstacle behind Sensor body should be inline
the vehicle during with the sensor cover.
reverse. B. Sensors are not 1. Check whether sensor has
installed in proper come out slightly from the
orientation. bumper.
2. Check sensors are
installed such that 'UP'
indication mark is on top
and the projection in the
sensor is fitted correctly in
the projection of the
bumper.
3. Verify whether sensor is
shifted down by more than
10 degree, if so change the
angle of the sensor towards
upside.
c. Bumper may be 1. Check whether bumper is
shifted more from shifted more from its
its original original position, if so
position correct it or change the
bumper with new one.
7 System is giving A. Sensor is not 1. Check whether sensor has
Constant false installed in proper came out slightly from the
alarm when there orientation, which bumper.
is no obstacle is sensing the 2. Check sensors are
behind the vehicle Ground or the foot installed such that 'UP'
during reverse. step. indication mark is on top
and the projection in the
sensor is fitted correctly in
the projection of the
bumper.
3. Verify whether sensor is
shifted down by more than
10 degree, if so change the
angle of the sensor towards
upside.
B. Bumper may be 1. Check whether bumper is
shifted more from shifted more from its
its original original position, if so
position correct it or change the
bumper with new one.
C. Foot step is not in 1. Verify whether the foot
its original position. step is damaged or moved
much from its original
position.
8 Only the buzzer a. IRVM may be 1. Verify with the new IRVM
indication is faulted
coming, but
display of the
direction and the
distance indication
is not displaying in
the IRVM.
9 Only the display a. IRVM may be 1. Verify with the new IRVM
indication is faulted
available, but no
buzzer indication
is
available
10 Obstacle is Sensor may be 1. Verify whether sensor
not sensed faulty body is inside the sensor
properly by cover (i.e. if sensor body
the sensor and sensor cover is not
inline), then change the
sensor. During fitment of
the sensor, sensor body
should not be touched.

Attention -
Obstacle at the blind zone cannot be sensed by the system.
Please check the condition of the obstacle behind you vehicle before reversing. In
some cases, the display may be not as same as the reality due to the sensor installed
level, obstacle shape, reflection condition and so on. Some examples are given below.
1. Point B will be detected sooner or later, but A may not be detected
forever.

2. Not all the obstacles is detected from 120cm, for instance, a person is detected
from 75cm because of the week reflection or absorption of the waves of the clothes.

3. The distance indication may move ups and downs due to different sizes of the
obstacle at different positions.
4. Though the obstacle is in the sensing zone the obstacle may not be detected since
the ultrasonic waves are not getting reflected back to the sensor because of
parallel/plain/flat surface obstacle parallel to bumper.
5. If the parallel/plain/flat surface obstacle in angular position, the obstacle will be

detected.
7. The obstacle of conical shape may not be detected, since the ultrasonic waves
get reflected away.
Note: All above sketches are for reference only

Smart Power Window
Contents
Description
Operating Principle
Function
Location of Power Window Unit
Diagnosis

Description –
Smart Power window with anti-pinch automatically stops during express up when
obstructions are detected in the path of the closing window.
This feature is provided on both the sides (i.e. Driver & Co Driver)
Customer benefit: Safety and convenience, particularly with feature like one-touch
closing.
Operating Principle –
Motor With Hall effect sensor - Power Window assembly with in-built Hall effect
sensor in motor gives output pulses for every revolution of motor to the controller
which enables the controller to trace the position of the glass and reverse the
direction of glass in case any upward movement of glass is obstructed before it
reaches to top end position.
Controller - The electronic control unit which is programmed with logic senses and
memorizes the end positions along with the frictional resistance of door during the
learning process.
Functions
Driver/Co Driver door with anti-pinching -
AUTO UP:
• Turn ON the Ignition.
• Pull the Driver/Co Driver door switch button more than 0.5 Sec. Glass will start
moving in upward direction. Remove your hand from switch.
• During this upward travel, any obstacle is detected with the force value ranging
between 70 ~ 100 Newton, controller will sense the load and will reverse the direction
of glass in down ward direction for almost full stroke length.
• However if the force against the glass is less than the specified value then this
function does not operate.
AUTO DOWN:
• Push the Driver/Co Driver door switch button more than 0.5 sec, glass will start
move in downward direction. Remove your hand from switch.
• These all functions like Auto Up/ down, Anti-pinch during Auto UP will get
deactivated in case of removal of Vehicle Battery Positive or Negative terminal.
• With de-activation of this feature, normal power windows will still function.

Smart power window learning -

To activate the feature the learning of the power window assembly for one complete
cycle is required & is as follows –
1. Move the window glass to extreme bottom most position by continuously pressing
the switch.
2. Start moving the glass up by pressing UP switch, hold the switch for two seconds
after reaching to top most position, system will understand this position as extreme
top position of glass.
3. Start moving the glass down wards by pressing down switch, hold the switch for two
seconds after reaching bottom most position, system will understand this position as
extreme bottom position of the glass.
With the above action, the system memorizes the end positions and the controller is
set for that stroke length.
Now pull and hold the power window switch for 1 sec for express window up. The
same procedure is to be repeated for express window down.
During express up, if movement of glass is obstructed by a 70 N force or more, it will
start moving in down ward direction for almost full stroke length.
• Make sure that the passenger has his/her hands etc. inside the vehicle before closing
the windows.
• Do not leave children unattended inside the vehicle. They could unknowingly
activate switches.
Recommendations -
1. In case of vehicle Battery terminal removal (Positive & negative) the express
up/express down/ Anti pinch during express up will get de-initialized. To initialize the
function we have to learn the system for one complete cycle.
2. In case of hard whether strip condition in express Up mode, glass will treat it as an
obstacle and glass will start going down. This needs to be checked at authorized
service stations
3. In case of anti pinching 5 times continuously at the same point, controller will loose
memory, so power window needs to be re learnt.

Location of POWER WINDOW Unit –

Diagnosis –
S. Failure Symptoms / Causes Corrective

No. Effects Action
1 Power Window No electrical No power supply
not operating Feature working
In-operation of all Battery Replace / Re-
four power discharged Charge
windows / Battery battery
voltage below 9V
(Under load)
Power Window fuse High inrush Lubricate
(40A) blown current glass run
– Power window Check and
jammed replace power
window
2 Express up Regulator not Top / Down
not working initialized initialization
is
required
5 times Top / Down
continuous initialization
anti-pinch (<6 is
Seconds required
between each
anti-Pinch)
Up / Down signal Up / Down
available for signal
<0.4 Seconds required for
minimum 0.4
Seconds
3 Anti Pinch Regulator not Top / Down
working initialized initialization
is
required
5 times Top / Down
continuous initialization
anti-pinch (<6 is
Seconds required
between each
anti-Pinch)
Controller Power window
failure system to be
replaced
Hall sensor Power window
failure system to be
replaced

4 Automatic Obstacle in path Obstacle to be

anti-pinch of glass removed
during movement
Express up Glass run very Glass run to
/ Manual up hard be checked.
Glass run to
be lubricated
Glass run to
be changed.

Tyre Pressure Monitoring System
Contents
Description
TPMS Operation
Electrical Layout and location of TPMS
Care of the system
TPMS Replacement procedure
Electrical Circuit Diagram
Diagnosis

Description –
TPM system measures the pressure and temperature inside the tyre and transmits it to
central receiver unit inside the vehicle through radio frequency. The receiver unit
receives this information, identifies data received corresponds to which tyre and gives
warning signals if undesirable tyre pressure/ temperature condition occurs.
TPM system provides warning signals to the driver in order to understand the
healthiness of the tyre which helps him to maintain the recommend air pressure in
such a way to have a good vehicle dynamics and better fuel efficiency.
TPMS for a vehicle, comprises of –

1. Pressure sensor mounted on each wheel (FL, FR,RR,RL & Spare wheel)
2. Receiver (ECU) located in the vehicle near park brake.
3. Display unit located in the instrument cluster.
Location of the sensors, Receiver & Display unit in the vehicle –

Location of the TPMS Display unit in the instrument Cluster –
INSTRUMENT CLUSTER
DISPLAY UNIT

Electrical Layout & Location of TPMS Units
TPMS Controller near

Hand Brake
TPMS operation:
1 Turn on ignition.
The system performs a self check and receives

latest updated information (pressure) of all tyre
locations.
2
Note: Only applies to permanent battery fed
solution
Note: This procedure takes max. 10 seconds.

All tyres OK mode

If all conditions are OK, system confirms showing
all green LED’s. other wise during a self test
3 itself if any one of the tyre pressure is below set
value(either warning or alert condition),
deflated tyre location LED will blink orange, red
respectively.
Loop Display mode

If pressing the mode button at the end of OK
mode, the system will display the current
pressure of each tyre starting from FL. (Rotation
from FL->FR->RR->RL-> Spare) with in 10 seconds
Single tyre Display mode

4 During Loop Display mode if Mode button is
pressed again, display will show pressure & temp
of Front Left tyre.
When Mode button is pressed again within 1

5 minute, display will show pressure & temp of
Front Right tyre.

Rear Right tyre.

Rear Left tyre.
With Spare Wheel

8b
minute, display will show pressure & temp of
Spare wheel.

9a
minute, display will exit from single tyre display
mode to OK mode.

There are three warning modes (3, 4, 5) available in the system.
1. PSI
2. TEMP. °C
3. TEMP. ALERT
4. LEAKAGE ALERT
5. PRESSURE ALERT
PRESSURE ALERT —
Please check pressure -
Condition: If any one of the tyre pressure is 75% of set value (32 psi) or lower.
Response:
-The corresponding tyre LED will blink orange (0.2 seconds on, 0.8 seconds off) for one
minute and beep in the same frequency for 15 seconds. If driver wants to turn off the
beep sound, he has to push the mode button.
-The 3-digit 7-segment LED will show the current pressure of the deflated tyre.
-This complete procedure will be repeated only once. After this it will light up
orange continuously
-At the same time it will illuminate the pressure alert LED near the display.
UNDER PRESSURE ALARM –
Condition - If any one of the tyre pressure is 50% of set value (32 psi) or lower.
Response –
- The LED of the corresponding tyre will blink red with doubled frequency (0.1 seconds
on, 0.4 seconds off) for 2 minutes and beep at the same frequency for 15 seconds.
- If driver wants to turn off the beep sound, he has to push the mode button.

- The same sequence will be repeated continuously until the condition is improved (a
normal or warning condition has been met).
- The 3-digit 7-segment section will show the current pressure of the tyre.
- At the same time it will illuminate the pressure alert LED near the display.
- User has to attend the tyre immediately by stopping the vehicle
TEMPERATURE ALERT –
Condition - If the temperature of the concerned tyre is 100°C or higher. This can
happen running the vehicle with deflated tyre
Response -
-The LED of the corresponding tire will blink red (0.2 seconds on, 0.8 seconds off) for
2 minutes and beep at the same frequency for 15 seconds.
- The 3-digit 7-segment section will show the current temperature of this tire.
- At the same time it will illuminate the temperature alert LED near the display.
- User has to immediately attend the tyre by stopping the vehicle
LEAKAGE ALERT –
Condition: If the specific tyre is losing more than 3 PSI within 1 minute.
Response:
-The LED of the corresponding tire will blink red (0.2 seconds on, 0.8 seconds off) for
- The same sequence will be repeated continuously until the condition is improved (a
normal or warning condition has been met).
- At the same time it will illuminate the Leakage alert LED near the display.
- User has to immediately attend the tyre by stopping the vehicle.
OVER PRESSURE WARNING –
Condition - If the pressure of one (or more) of the tyres is 48 PSI or higher.

Response -
- The LED of the corresponding tyre will blink red (0.2 seconds on, 0.8 seconds off) for
- If driver wants to turn off the beep sound he has to push the mode button.
- During this whole period, the 3-digit 7-segment LED will show the current pressure of
this tyre.
- Stop the vehicle immediately and check the tyre pressure

Using Spare Tyre in case of tyre puncture -

After rectification of the puncture, the swapped spare wheel should be brought back
to the original position by following steps No. 4 to 6.
If more than two tyres are to be swapped refer to sequential tyre rotation procedure.
Care to be taken while servicing -

The sensors are lightweight, mounted in the wheel rim. It’s important to be careful
when using a tyre-mounting machine. The sensor could be damaged in two ways either
by:
• Direct contact with the machine or

• By the bead of the tyre as it is forced over the rim.
- In case of tyre damage/ worn out ,the same sensor needs to be checked for the
physical damage before installing in the new tyre at recommended service station
After installation , the tyres need to be learned with system
- TPMS sensor is more precise than consumer-grade tyre pressure gauges. It may be
necessary to explain this if the customer routinely mis-inflates tyres using a gas
station gauge.
- If tyres are rotated or a sensor is replaced, the receiver must be reprogrammed,

otherwise the system will continue to report the correct pressures, but will assign
them to the wrong locations on the vehicle.
- In tyre rotation while deflating the tyre by 3 PSI, take care you are not deflating the
same tyre after long confirmation beep.

TPMS Sensor Replacement Procedure –
Dismantling –
Start breaking down tyres by deflating

them. Use a tyre valve tool to remove
the valve core from the stem to
completely deflate the tyre. Remove
all the air and then remove the
locknut. Press the sensor gently
towards inside. It will get detached
from the rim.
Then start removing the tyre bead as
follows:
Break down tyres preferably by using a

bead breaker with Nylon Roller.

While using a bead breaker, the valve

must be positioned opposite to the
bead breaker to avoid bead breaker to
avoid possible sensor damage.
Lift outer tyre bead over the rim using

a tyre tool.
Note – Valve must be positioned just

left of the start position to avoid
sensor damage.
Do not allow the tyre tool to touch the
sensor.
Lift inner tyre bead over the rim using
a tyre tool.
Note – Valve must be positioned just

left of the start position to avoid
sensor damage.
Do not allow the tyre tool to touch the
sensor.
Lift the inner tyre bead over the rim &

remove the valve stem.

Assembly –
Fit & tighten the sensor onto the

wheel rim.
Note – Tightening Torque – 5 Nm
Place inner tyre bead over the rim.

Note – Start off mounting the tyre
completely opposite to the valve
position.
Place outer tyre bead over the rim.

Note – Start off mounting the tyre
completely opposite to the valve
position.
Inflate all tyres to recommended

pressure, check valve area for leakage
& rebalance the wheels prior to
installing back on the vehicle.
Note – Recommended Tyre Pressure –

32 psi.

Tyre Rotation procedure –
After Tyre Rotation –
FL FR
5 3
RL RR
2 1
ST

Learning the system after Tyre Rotation –
1 Press and hold Mode button on display.
2 Turn on ignition.
Release Mode button when display shows L-5.

3
To program spare wheel sensor,
Proceed to step 4
Deflate spare tyre by 3 PSI. The spare wheel

sensor is programmed when a long confirmation
4 L-5 beep tone sounds with respective tyre location
LED and automatically FL tyre LED will start
blinking.
After spare tyre programming, the FL tyre will

start blinking green with icon indication
5 001 001.Deflate FL tyre by 3 PSI. The FL tyre sensor
is programmed when a long confirmation beep
tone sounds with respective tyre location LED
After FL tyre programming, FR tyre will start

blinking green with icon indication 002.Deflate
6 002 FR tyre by 3 PSI. The FR tyre sensor is
programmed when a long confirmation beep
After FR tyre programming, RR tyre will start

7 003 RR tyre by 3 PSI. The RR tyre sensor is

After RR tyre programming, RL tyre will start

8 004 RR tyre by 3 PSI. The RR tyre sensor is
Wait for 1 minute, system will come back to all

9
tyres ok mode and all LEDs will light green.
Limitations –
• TPMS does not monitor other conditions then tyre pressure & temperature,
such as tyre wear.
• TPMS is unable to detect an instant tyre burst or other defect timely and
inform the driver in advance
• At a time, only one tyre can be swapped with spare wheel.
• There may be possibility of getting SCH error on crossing environment area
prone to heavy power lines and RF signals.

Important Points:
• It is recommended to fill the pressure to 32 psi at digital gauge station only.

• Every 15 days, owner has to inflate the tyre up to 32 psi and inflation should be
done at cold condition/ambient temp.
• Pressure deviation b/w TPMS Display and Gauge will be depending upon the
following factors:
• Atmospheric pressure
• Error in pressure filling gauge( not calibrated)
• Air leakage during inflation/deflation
• TPMS measures the absolute pressure of the tyre not relative pressure( gauge
pressure)
• Pressure deviation is defined for 0.5 psi (min) and 2 psi (max) by M&M.
• TPMS sensor has inbuilt battery which has got 5 years lifespan, so sensor needs
to be replaced after 5 years.
• If vehicle battery/fuse is first disconnected and then connected, it will take 2
minutes to come to All Tyre OK mode in TPMS display.
• While inflating tyre, pressure updating will take 2 minutes on TPMS display.
• It should be noted that if you rotate the tyres or replace the sensor on your
vehicle, you MUST re-program the receiver unit inside otherwise it will consider
the sensor is on a different wheel location.
• At a time, only one tyre can be swapped with spare wheel and then follow the
learning procedure
• If more than one tyre needs to be learned, all the 5 tyres are to be learned as
per the learning spare wheel procedure mentioned in the manual.

Electrical Circuit Diagram - TPMS

Connector Information -
Connect Connecti
Connector M/
or ng Wiring IC No PINS Connector view
Position F
(Pole, Harness
Colour)
IC( 21P, IP- W/H
White) Floor
A-PILLAR
1 21 F
RIGHT
IC(13P, W/H IP-

Natural) Floor
A-PILLAR
3 13 F
RIGHT
W/H IP-
(5+2P , Engine A-PILLAR
White) Room RIGHT
5 5+2 M
( 4P , W/H IP Beneath
White) centre
console - 4 F
( 4P , W/H Floor Beneath

Black) centre
console - 4 F
( 3P , W/H Floor Beneath

White) centre
console
- 3 F

Diagnosis –
S. Symptom Reason Cause Action
No
1 Display shows 1. Due to lose of 1. Antenna connected
SCH error in signal reception with ECU might have Change the
all the tyre between all been removed. antenna.
location transmitters and 2. Pin in the antenna
receiver. may be damaged.
2 Any one of Signal interruption 1. Sensor non- 1. Check &
the tyres between particular available inside the confirm.
alone show senor and receiver tyre.
SCH error. 2. Sensor life may 2. After the
exceed 5 years life. specified
life time of
the sensor
customer
has to
replace the
sensor
3 Even if New sensor is not If the new sensor is Refer the
customer learned with fitted with old learning
changes the receiver receiver, the learning procedure.
new tyre with needs to be done.
new sensor
system shows
“SCH” error.
4 Display not Separate connector While connecting Check the
switching on. for TPMS display cluster, may forgot to four pole
not connected. (4 connect this TPMS connector
pole connector at connector. behind the
the receiver end). cluster.
5 Display not Even though all Fuse for the TPMS Refer to the
switching ON connectors are may be fused out. circuit
connected, display diagram to
not coming ON. locate the
fuse,
battery
connection
pin &
Ignition pin
and check
the 12V
supply is
available in
those pins
after switch
on ignition.

6 Display not Chances of One of the wires may The colour

switching ON disconnection of be connected to code is
signal line form dummy terminal. given in the
receiver to display back side of
in the cluster. the 4 pole
connector.
But
connection
may not be
done as per
the colour
code.
Please
Refer to the
circuit
diagram.

Wheels & Tyres
Contents
Description
Trouble Shooting
Care of the system
In Car repairs
Removal & Refitment of the tyre
Specification & Wear Data

Description
The tyres fitted in Scorpio are radial tubeless tyres and with a suitable wheel disc.
In the tyre P 235/75 R 16 - The 215 is the width of the tyre in mm at the designated
air pressure and load. The / 75 is the aspect ratio of the tyre. (Ratio between the
height and width here the height is 0.75 times the width
The tyres play a very important and vital role in the vehicle handling and ride
characteristic. Hence it is advised that any change not as per the specification have to
be done with caution.
The air pressure maintained has a direct influence on the fuel average obtained,
braking and also on ride characteristic. Hence it is imperative that the tyre pressure
be maintained as per specification. The tyre specified with the specified air pressure
gives these tyres a safe speed of 180 Km/hr
Maintain the
correct tyre
pressure.
Do the tyre
rotation.
Under Inflation
Rapid wear at Shoulder Lack of rotation
Excessive cornering.
Maintain the
correct tyre
pressure.
Rapid wear at centre Over inflation

Maintain the correct

tyre pressure.
Cracked Treads
Under Inflation
Check and adjust:

Hub end play
Camber to be
checked and
adjusted.
One Edge Wear

Excessive camber
Excessive cornering
Check & correct

Toe In
Check the chassis
bend
If tyre rotation not
carried out as per
schedule. Do the
Feathered Edge Wear tyre rotation.
Incorrect Toe In
No tyre rotation.
Balance the tyres.

Check the brake
drum roundness.
Check jammed
wheel cylinder/
calipers.
Check the wheel
bearings.
Bald Spots Avoid driving with
Unbalanced tyre
sudden brake
locking.
Out of round brake drums
in rear.

Faulty wheel bearings.
Sudden braking.
Lack of rotation or Worn Tyre rotation.
or Out of Alignment Check & replace the
Suspension suspension
components.
Wavy / Scalloped wear

Side Wall crack- radial/
diagonal Kerb damage
Stone hit
Side wall crack
circumferential / tyre Run Flat
bulging ( It is more obvious from
inside )


The tyre is one of the most abused components hence maintaining the tyre is of
utmost importance.
The recommended tyre pressures are given below:
235/70 R16
Front Rear
Up to 5 persons + 40 Kg 2.2 bar / 32 psi 2.2 bar / 32 psi

load
235/70 R16
Front Rear
More than 5 person 2.2 bar / 32 psi 2.2 bar /32 psi
The tyre pressure should be checked once in a fortnight. (Once a week during
summers). The tyre pressures should always be checked & corrected in cold
condition. The valve should be always covered with the valve cover. An opened
valve can have the valve needle stuck in a partial position causing the tyre to bleed
during operation..
The tyre pressure specified can cater to continuous high-speed performance. Hence it
is not advisable to increase the tyre pressure before going on a high speed run.
The practice of keeping the tyre pressure lower in summer is actually detrimental
to the tyre. To understand that let us examine what happens – if lower pressure is
kept. Then the sidewall flexing is going to be more hence the heat generation will
also be higher which will result in a faster increase in tyre pressure. So the wear
rate is going to be higher.
Similarly the practice of bleeding the tyre pressure to reduce the pressure after a
long run can cause the sidewall to crack and in a worst scenario sidewall bulging.
Before going on a long drive it is a good practice to remove the stones/pebbles

trapped in the treads. The probability of a puncture due to stone trapped and
digging through the crown once it gets heated up is reduced.
It should also be kept in mind that a radial tyre with higher pressure is more prone
to burst under impact from stone at high speed or kerb impact. Lower air pressure
results in higher sidewall flexing and drastically increases the chance of sidewall
damage / cut in bad roads.
Wheel balancing should be done at least every 20,000 KMs. It is compulsory to do a

balancing of the wheel after any puncture.
The tyre rotation should be carried out every 10,000 KMs.
Wheel alignment is recommended. If the wheel disc is having any deformation

particularly in the bead seating area then do not wait until the mileage has covered-
get it balanced.) In case of abnormal tyre wear refer to the Trouble shooting section
and take the corrective action suggested.
The grooves in the tyre are used to pump out the water between the road and the
tyre. In case the water is not pumped out the tyre will ride on water. Since the
coefficient of friction of water is very low that will result a sliding action. Obviously
the amount of water which the tyre can pump out between the ground and the tyre
will depend on the depth of the groove which is acting as a channel. The tyre
manufacturers recommend that a minimum tread depth of 1.6 mm should be present.
Once the tread depth is less than 1.6 mm it is recommended to replace the tyres. I t is
not advisable to retread the tyre.
Any kind of lubricant on the tyre is detrimental as it promotes degradation of rubber
and also increases the chance of hardening. Normally this happens when a mechanics
rubs the spare oil or grease on to the sidewall of the tyre.

Tyre Rotation –
1. Check & ensure tyre pressure at 2.2 bars / 32 psi in all five wheels.
2. Rotate ( swap the positions ) the wheels as shown in the diagram above
• Driver side rear goes to Driver side front position.

• Driver side front wheel goes to Co-Driver side rear position.
• Co-Driver side rear wheel goes to spare wheel position.
• Spare wheel goes to Co-Driver side front position.
• Co-Driver side front wheel goes to Driver side rear position.
In case the vehicle reports for wheel wobbling then the sequence of balancing &
rotation should be as follows:
Important: Before going ahead with the procedure; do road tests and at that time:-
Please remember that the road shocks can come to the steering wheel while going
over rough or uneven patch.
The important point is that after the road shock is over then it should not continue to
vibrate.
Preliminary Stage:
Mark each tyre assembly position with respect to the hub/ axle shaft.
Balance all the tyre and place it back it each wheel in the same position. (Tyre
pressure for all wheel-32psi)
Now follow the sequence of Stage A, Stage B, Stage C. Road test after each stage:

Sequence of operations:
Road Test A Road test B Road test
C Road test
If the stages of A, B, & C are done together then improvement may not be noticed. In
worst case scenario the problem may get aggravated.
Before dismounting the wheel Mark the position of the wheel & tyre assembly with
respect to for
Procedure the wheel
hub (uses any wheel mounting bolt as a reference and applies a paint
balancing
mark to hub with respect to disc + tyre.
Check the wheel balancing.

(Also refer Note 1)
If the imbalance amount C After B - If If the imbalance

is less than 40 gm. after road test no is > 40 gm
change in
wobbling; then
Rotate the
assembly by 180
degree in clockwise
Rotate the wheel assembly & direction
check the imbalance
Imbalance location should not

change more than 80 mm in
circumference.
The max imbalance can be 40 gms
While mounting the wheel assembly, rotate the wheel assembly by 180 degrees.
Now the matching marks will be opposite

Flow chart to attend Vibration Concern
Vibration observation at certain speed
Loosen & re-torque all Suspension

Joints, Body Mounts, Engine Mounts,
Seat Mountings & Transmission
mounts as specified in manual.
Not Resolved Resolved
Stop
Check Shock Absorber for dampening value

(by hand feel), Suspension Ball Joints &
Steering Intermediate Shaft for play
Replace the part (s), All parts are OK,

if required Not Resolved
Resolved Loosen & re-torque

Propeller Shaft
mountings
Stop
Not Resolved Resolved
Rotate the tyre Stop

one by one from
Front to Rear
Resolved Not Resolved
Stop Swap the tyre(s)

one by one with
good vehicle tyre(s)
Resolved, Change Not Resolved, Call

the Particular tyre Technical Support Cell

In Car Repairs –
The tyres should be removed and then only be attended for puncture or damage.
For removal of the tyre from the vehicle the jacking points are:
For 2WD Front- to be supported on the chassis, behind the lower arm just below the
first outrigger.
For 4WD Front -Behind the lower arm just below the first outrigger. While locating
the jack or the locating for the 2-post lift please ensure that it does not touch the
torsion bar. (It can cause the torsion bar to bend.)
For the rear wheels: below the axle.
Never go under the vehicle when it is jacked up. This jack is meant for only raising
the wheel. For any under body work/inspection support the vehicle on vehicle
stands.
If the vehicle is run with severely under inflated tyres – the vehicle stability may be
affected. A run flat wheel can also damage the wheel disc- besides literally shredding
the tyre.
Removal & Refitment of the tyre –
It is recommended that the tyre removal and re-fitment on the wheel disc be done
in a tyre specialist shop where the tyre fitting machines are available. The
advantage of the machine over the conventional method is that the damage to the
beading area is totally avoided.
In absence of the machine; ensure that:
No sharp tools are inserted while removing the tyre.

No sharp tools/ screwdriver is used while fitting the tyre.
While refitting the tyre the use of powder between the tube & the tyre is
recommended
It is recommended that the tyre be inflated to a pressure of 40 PSI. This will ensure
that the bead is locked in properly and also in centralizing. Then later reduce the
pressure to the recommended pressure.

Removal & Refitment of the spare wheel from the vehicle –
Remove the covering on the rear and

using the wheel spanner lower the spare
wheel
Lower the wheel on to the ground and

take off the locating tang from the disc.
The fitment of the old tyre to the spare

wheel carrier is the reverse of the above
procedure
While fitting the tyre on to the axle
ensure that
- The bolt holes in disc are not oblong.

- The threads of the bolt are not having
dirt – neither is there dirt/ mud in the
nut. (Generally while removing a
wheel the nuts are left in the ground
collecting dirt/mud. It is a better
practice to keep the removed nuts on
vehicle.
While tightening the wheel nut tighten in

diagonally opposite order to each other.
Failure to do so can cause vibration of

the steering wheel at high speed.
Description Torque in Nm (lb-ft)

Wheel Nut (Normal/Alloy wheel) 97.5± 5 Nm
Body Mounts 55 ± 5 Nm
Specification & Wear Data –
Description Value
Run out of the tyre- radial 1.5 mm
Run out of the tyre- lateral 1.5 mm
Unbalanced allowed- tyre Max. 1.8 Kg-f
Minimum tread depth 1.6 mm

HEADLAMP AIMING/ALIGNMENT
Headlamp alignment can be done by two methods.
(1) “USING THE AIMING INSTRUMENT”
(2) “IN THE DARK ROOM”
(1) HEADLAMP ALIGNMENT USING THE AIMING INSTRUMENT:

(Follow instruction of the equipment supplier, if any)
• Ensure that the:
a) Vehicle & headlamp aiming equipment placed on the same Level
surface.
b) Check and ensure all four tyre pressures as per specification.
c) The headlamp aiming instrument height should be in the centreline of
headlamp.
Ref
er
abo
ve
illus
trati
on –
1. B
r
i
n
g
the aiming instrument lens in front of headlamp as shown in above diagram.

2. Then switch ON Headlamp LOW beam (HLLD system actuates in Park ‘ON’).
3. Keep the levelling switch in “0” position.
4. Observe the demarcation between light & dark zone. This demarcation line
should coincide with horizontal line at an angle of 15 Deg. Refer illustrations
shown below.
5. If the low beam does not coincide with the lines on the screen, adjust the
setting Screws to the set pattern at a required height (i.e. cut-off height
marked on aiming instrument), with the help of star head Screwdriver.
Refer illustration below for Demarcation between light & dark zone -

6. For RHD vehicles the oblique line at 15deg will be oriented towards LH side, and for
LHD vehicles the same will be oriented towards RH side.
7. Check the system function by moving the switch position from 0 to 3, accordingly
Cut-off pattern will move downward & at 0th position the cut-off will come at original
– 1.3% setting.
8. If the beam pattern is moving with the switch operation that means system is OK.
9. After setting both Headlamp cut-off pattern, check the head lamp reflector, There
should not be any fouling between Headlamp Reflector & Housing.
10.Head light centre height in Scorpio Vlx is 880mm from ground level.

(2) HEADLAMP ALIGNMENT IN THE DARK ROOM:
• Ensure that the:

a) Vehicle & black screen/ board both are placed on the same Level
surface.
b) Check and ensure all four tyre pressures as per specification.
c) Headlamp levelling switch position is on zero (0).
75 cm
Refer above illustration -
1. Keep the vehicle at a distance of 10 meter from the black screen in the dark room.
2. Mark the –1.3% height on the board as shown. i.e. 130mm below the Headlamp
centre height.
3. Set both LH & RH headlamp by setting the cut-off pattern at a height marked on
the board/screen.
4. Check the function of system, by operating the switch 0 to 4 and observe the cut-
off pattern movement in down word direction accordingly.
5. At zero position of switch the cut-off should come at –1.3% heights on screen.
Select the switch position as per following table for M-1 category vehicles -
Switch Position Vehicle loading condition

0 Driver / Driver with Front passenger.
1 Driver + Front passenger + Rear seat occupied
2 All seats occupied
3 All seats occupied with luggage
or Driver with luggage at extreme rear side.
NOTE:
1. Head light centre height in Scorpio Vlx/ Sle/ Lx is 880mm from ground level.
2. ‘h’ is the height 130mm below the HL-centre height i.e. –1.3% setting of cut-
off pattern. So here h (cm) is 75 cm/ 750mm.
3. Distance of vehicle from black board is 10 meters.

BODY MOUNTING BOLTS - TIGHTEN
Nut/ Bolt description Spanner Quantity Nos. Torque Value –

Size Nm.
• Body mtg. bolts 17 mm. 10 nos. 65 ± 05 Nm.
NOTE:
Body mounts/ triggers on front both are denominated as Mtg. No.1 to 5.
There are 05 Nos. Body mounts on vehicle left hand side as well as 05 Nos. on
vehicle right side.
Refer above sketch for body mount locations.
Park the vehicle in inspection pit /2 post lift/ 4 post lift.

If the activity is done on a 2 post lift, ensure that the LSPV spring is disconnected
before lifting the vehicle & re-connect the LSPV spring & ensure that the setting
height is correct after job complete.

EXHAUST SYSTEM
EXHAUST SYSTEM - CHECK

Refer above illustrations A & B.
1. Check all the Exhaust mountings for exhaust pipe fouling and correct fittings.
2. Check all the Exhaust joints for leakage and correct fittings.
3. Check rubber hanger for crack and shift, replace and correct if required.
Park the vehicle in inspection pit/ 2 post lift / 4 post lift.

If the activity is done on a 2 post lift, ensure that the LSPV
spring is disconnected before lifting the vehicle & re-connect
the LSPV spring & ensure that the setting height is correct
after job complete.

Painting / Refinishing.
Contents
Trouble shooting
Paint application
Technical Terms
Paint details

Trouble Shooting

Stains under the paint Application on to a Preparation.
stained undercoat .Remove the affected
(Fall out, faulty coats with abrasive
preparation). paper
Gun cleaning problems.
Finish sand
Painting.
Mask and apply the
final coats according
to recommended
procedure
Stain appearing in the

film under the finishing
paint.
Micro Blistering/ 1. Paint too thick. Preparation.

Pinholing 2. Flash off time too Remove the affected
short. coats with abrasive
3. Oven temperature paper.
rises too rapid. Finish sand.
4. Viscosity too high,
high paint output Painting.
Mask and apply the
to recommended
procedure.

Concentration of very
small bubbles of solvent
or air included in the
paint film. A pierced
bubble is called a
pinhole.
Blistering 1. Absorbed salts Preparation.
incompletely Remove the affected
removed, pollution coats with abrasive
of the undercoat paper
(finger marks under
the paint), faulty Finish sand
products.
Painting.
Mask and apply the
to recommended
procedure.
Blister or bubbles caused

by absorption or
presence of water.
Craters 1. Contamination of Remove the affected
the prepared coats with abrasive

surface causing a paper.

wetting fault Finish sand.
(silicone, grease, Mask and apply the
wax, soap, final coats according
atmospheric agents to recommended
cause which can procedure.
cause a similar
activity)
cavities in the finish

coat, possibly allowing
the previous coat to
show.

Stains or Deposits on the Stain or residue of For Deposits
Paint product deposited Treatment with a body
during manufacture, work cleaning product.
preparation or use of If the fault persist
the vehicle Polishing:
e.g. adhesives, fuel, Elimination of the fault
hydraulic fluid, using the polishing paste.
lubricant The thickness of the paint
film removed must not
exceed 8 microns.
Return the gloss with a
finishing polish.
Sanding + Polishing.
Elimination of the fault
using a suitable abrasive
paper.
The thickness of the film
removed must not exceed
8 microns. Next polish

with a polishing paste and

a finishing polish.
If the fault is still

persisting. Preparation.
Remove the affected
areas with abrasive paper.
Finish sand.
Stain: Preparation Remove
the affected coats with
abrasive paper
Finish sand
Paint. Mask and apply the
final coats as per
recommended procedure.
Atmospheric fall out Stains or deposits Remove the affected coats

mainly affecting the with abrasive paper.
horizontal surfaces of
the body work. If bare metal is showing -
apply an anti corrosion
This fall out can cause primer.
an attack in depth,
which can extend to Finish sand
flaking of the paint if it
is not dealt with Mask and apply the final
without delay. coats according to
Atmospheric fall out
can be of industrial
origin( foundry,
cement works,
furnace…), vegetable (
tree resin) or animal (
bird or insect
droppings
Runs Depending on the severity

Viscosity of the of the fault , carry out one

product:- or the other of the

following solutions:
1. Thickness too
great. Sanding +Polishing.
2. Paint flow too Elimination of the fault
great. using a suitable abrasive
3. Air pressure too paper. The thickness of
low. the paint film removed
4. Gun too near. must not exceed 8
microns. Next polish with
a polishing paste and a
finishing polish
Or
Remove the affected coats
Layers of paint or with abrasive paper.
varnish in the shape of Finish sand
a curtain starting ,
generally , on vertical Mask and apply the final
parts or from a panel coats according to
joint recommended procedure.

Scaling/Flaking Preparation.
Remove the affected
coats with abrasive
paper.
If bare metal is
showing apply an anti
corrosion primer.
Finish sand.
Painting.
Mask and apply the
to recommended
procedure.
Flaking is related to
poor adhesion of one
coat on the previous
coat or to the base and
can affect one or
Mechanical destruction several components of
of one or more of the the vehicle.
coats of the paint film
which can extend to bare It can be caused by
metal and give rise to either
corrosion of metal parts. Stone chips, damage.
High-pressure washing
used inappropriately
Preparation or paint
procedures not
followed correctly.
Dirt Foreign bodies Preparation.
present in the air or Depending on the severity
the product during of the fault , carry out one
painting. or the other of the
following solutions:
Sanding +Polishing.
Elimination of the fault
using a suitable abrasive
paper. The thickness of
the paint film removed
must not exceed 8
microns. Next polish with
a polishing paste and a
Small solid particles finishing polish
embedded in the paint Or
producing a rough paint Remove the affected coats
surface with abrasive paper.
Finish sand
Painting.
Mask and apply the final
coats according to

Thin paint / Lack of 1. Paint flow Preparation.
cover insufficient. Flat with fine paper to
2. Unsuitable gun obtain adhesion to the
nozzle. underneath coat
3. Gun too far away. Painting.
Mask and apply the
final coats according to
recommended
procedure
Partial or total
insufficiency of color or

varnish. It can cause

differences in color and
relief of the paint
surface or a lack of
gloss
Orange Peel Application parameters, Preparation.
solvent balance, paint Remove the affected
viscosity, surface coats with abrasive
condition of the previous paper.
coat, paint film thickness. . If bare metal is
showing apply an anti
corrosion primer
.Finish sand
Painting.
Mask and apply the
recommended
procedure.
Pronounced undulations
of the paint film giving
a granular appearance
resembling orange peel
Insufficient gloss Insufficient thickens, Polishing.
sinking, excessive baking, Elimination of the fault
Poor reflection of light under baking of the using polishing paste.
or image which can preceding coat, faulty
appear Matt products The thickness of the
paint film removed
must not exceed 8
microns.
Return the gloss with a

finishing polish.
If the fault still persist.

Preparation.
Flat with fine paper to
obtain adhesion to the
underneath coat then
paint
Painting.
Mask and apply the
recommended
procedure
Marbling 1. Temperature of the Preparation.

application too low

2. Faulty dilution Flat with fine paper to

3. Poor spraying obtain adhesion to the
technique underneath coat.
4. Faulty gun adjustment
Painting.
Mask and apply the
recommended
procedure
Dark or light stains in

the shape of irregularly
distributed veins giving
a non uniform color to
the panel
Color difference. Preparation.
Flat with fine paper to
obtain adhesion to the
Difference in color underneath coat
visible between two
panel Painting.
Mask and apply the
recommended
procedure
Sanding/Polishing marks Sanding/ polishing Preparation.
procedure poorly Flat with fine paper to
executed obtain adhesion to the
underneath coat
Painting.
Mask and apply the
recommended
procedure
Sanding marks:
scratches visible
through the paint film.

Polishing marks: lighter

paint halo
Deterioration The micro scratches Preparation.

can be caused by an over Polishing.
aggressive roller brush Elimination of the fault
car wash ( badly with cutting paste.
maintained, incorrectly
adjusted, etc) The thickness of paint
In this case they are removed should not
circular or lengthwise and exceed 8 microns.
cover the whole of the
body. Restore the gloss with
In other case they will be finish paste. If the
multi directional (a dirty fault persist Fine
or abrasive sponge, rubbing down +
rubbing by an object etc.) polishing.
Rub down with suitable
abrasive paper and
then polish.
Scratches
Preparation. Remove
the affected coats with
Superficial abrasive paper.
deterioration of the Finish with fine paper
paint finish Painting.
Mask and apply the
recommended
procedure

Paint application
Surface preparation
Proper surface preparation is the key to top quality body panel refinishing. Even if it is
sometimes long, sanding with the adequate abrasives of suitable material and properly
trained personnel will ensure a quality result. The importance of selecting the right
grit is a must. If unsuitable grit is used then will cause damage impossible to hide. For
example a 40 grit causes very deep scratched – do not ever use this grit.
Always clean the panel surface with a wax and grease removal solution and then wipe
the surface with a lint free rag before applying primer or paint. Cleaning will also
remove any residual silicone from the painted surface.
Body putty that is procured from any major supplier is recommended. If synthetic
body filler is to be used then it should be a quality product.
Primer
The type of primer to be used is dependent on the condition of the panel surface. Bare
metal should be primed with epoxy – base. A sealant is recommended when applying a
second color coat over an existing color coat. With certain colors sealants are also
important in preventing bleed through.
Base/ Color coat
Base color coat paint finishes must be applied in a clean envoirement. Top loader guns
are recommended for applying the base / color cat paint.
Base / color coat paint should be reduced/ thinned and applied to the manufacturers
suggestion. Please refer to the manufacturer suggestion.
Basecoat/ Clearcoat
Basecoat/ Clearcoat application is a two stage process. The Basecoat is applied over
the final primer coat. The Clearcoat is then applied over the Basecoat. The Clearcoat
provides the paint finish with a high gloss and increased durability
The work areas should be well ventilated for application of Basecoat and Clearcoat
paint. More particularly when applying the Clearcoat paint.
Buffing & polishing
Minor paint defects in Basecoat/ Clearcoat can frequently be removed by light

sanding, buffing & polishing. Wet sand the defect with 600 grit soaked in mineral
spirits.
Buff the surface area with fine grade buffing compound. Finish the repair with quality
polishing compound to blend and restore the gloss.

Technical Terms
Single Coat
A single coat spray pattern is applied from left to right. After that the returning right
to left spray pattern is applied so that it overlaps the lower one half of the initial
spray pattern
Double Coat
A double coat spray pattern is applied from left to right. Then the returning spray of
right to left is applied.
Drying
Drying and hardening of the film involves 3 stage of evaporation.
1st stage- Dust free stage.
2nd stage- tack free stage.
3rd stage-hard dry stage.
It is recommended that to obtain a high quality of gloss the painting operation and
drying be done in a paint booth where the heating can be achieved.
Degrease/ De wax
Degreasing or dewaxing involves cleaning a panel surface either with 3M All-purpose

cleaner or any other equivalent. This removes the surface grease or wax
Flash Time
is the time required for the solvent to evaporate from the applied primer / paint coat.
Mist Coat
A mist coat is frequently used as the final color coat. Mist coats are overthinned paint
that is sprayed wet.
Surface Primer Coat
A surface primer must be applied over the repaired metal substrate. The body parts
taken from the Spare parts have the OE treatment of CED priming.
The primer provides a bond between the metal and the colurs base coat. Various type
of primers for use in exposed parts are available. Surface primers are available in
either sandabale or non sandabale form.
Spot putty can be applied on top of the primer to cover up small imperfections which
will not get covered / concealed by the standard primer

Reducer/ Thinners
Is mixture of volatile liquids and are used to reduce the surface primers and color coat
paints. Use only the type that is specified.
Paint Details
For paint details refer Technical Service Bulletin (TSB)
The Reference Number for TSB is M&M/IO/PAINT/1/10/08
Primer
GNP reference no M&M part no

Primer 3007/00121 0118BK0020N
Base color coat
Low bake clear coat for exterior touch up.

(Use the clear coat with 5% acid catalyst)

Clear Coat 1506/00291 0118AK0030N
Acid catalyst 3920/00014 ESKM99J9574B
Thinner 1534/01216 99581
Air drying for interior touch up

NARP clear coat 1512/00036 97505
Thinner 1534/00195 99447


2009 - Service Manual (Nef Engines, SUV & SC-DC)

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NEF ENGINES

SUV & SC/DC

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Main Menu Index Search Print EXIT

NEF CRDe Engines

Care of the System

Working principle of various sub systems of the Engine

Dismantling & overha uling of the Engine

Specifications & Wear Data

Lubricants & Sealants

List of the MST

All copyrights reserved by

Main Menu Index Search Print EXIT

The piston features re-entrant type combustion chamber and having

The forged connecting rod is connected to induction-hardened crankshaft.

Main Menu Index Search Print EXIT

Refer to the Service diagnosis chart. Additional tests & diagnostic

Information concerning the additional checks is provided within the

Cylinder compression pressure Test

The results of the cylinder compression test can be utilized to diagnose

 Remove all the injectors.

Engine cylinder Head Gasket Failure Diagnosis

An engine cylinder head gasket leak can be:

Cylinder head gasket failure between cylinders is indicated by

Main Menu Index Search Print EXIT

Cylinder head gasket leaking between a cylinder and coolant passage

Cylinder to Cylinder Leakage Test

Check the cylinder compression pressure as already explained. Leakage

Cylinder to Water jacket Leakage Test

• Remove the radiator cap.

Symptom Causes Remedial action

4. Cylinder head 9 Replace the cyl. head

Main Menu Index Search Print EXIT

Noisy engine & black 1. Faulty injectors. 9 Replace injectors

3. Broken parts 9 Inspect and replace the

4. Rockers loose or 9 Adjust tappet.

2. Clogged fuel 9 Replace filter.

5. Air leaks in 9 Plug the leaks, replace

Main Menu Index Search Print EXIT

assembly & rectify.

12. Restricted 9 Replace Turbocharger

13. Exhaust gas 9 Tighten the TC mounting

14. Gas leak 9 Remove the restriction in

15. EGR pipe leak. 9 Change the gasket or the

16. Fuels supply 9 Replace the pipe.

17. EGR valve 9 Check the EGR using the

18. Compression 9 Check compression.

19. Jammed piston 9 Replace piston rings.

20. Viscous fan 9 Check the VFD as

Main Menu Index Search Print EXIT

continuously outlined in cooling.

Check CR system Refer the diagnostic manual

Noisy engine & high 1. Cylinder head 9 Replace the cylinder

Black smoke. 1. Air intake 9 Check for hoses, replace

2. Incorrect tappet 9 Adjust tappets.

3. Defective 9 Check injectors.

4. Air leaks. 9 Check for leaks between

Excessive oil 1. Cracked vacuum 9 Check the vacuum line

Main Menu Index Search Print EXIT

leaks, crack. Replace

Remove all the injectors.