Republic of the Philippines

Department of Education
Regional Office IX, Zamboanga Peninsula

Zest for Progress

11/12 Z Peal of artnership

Name of Learner: ______________________

Grade & Section: ______________________
Name of School: ______________________
TVL– Grade 12
Alternative Delivery Mode
Quarter 3 – Module 5: Prepare Fabric for Cutting and Sewing

Republic Act 8293, section 176 states that: No copyright shall subsist in any
work of the Government of the Philippines. However, prior approval of the
government agency or office wherein the work is created shall be necessary for
exploitation of such work for profit. Such agency or office may, among other things,
impose as a condition the payment of royalties.

Borrowed materials (i.e., songs, stories, poems, pictures, photos, brand names,
trademarks, etc.) included in this module are owned by their respective copyright
holders. Every effort has been exerted to locate and seek permission to use these
materials from their respective copyright owners. The publisher and authors do not
represent nor claim ownership over them.

Published by the Department of Education

Secretary: Leonor MagtolisBriones
Undersecretary: Diosdado M. San Antonio

Development Team of the Module

Writer: Dermedomie S. Abao

Editor: Bella B. Jumawan
Reviewers: Nilda Y. Galaura, Evelyn C. Labad
Illustrator: Abdurahman S. Bica
Layout Artist: Eva Joy J. Manga
Management Team:
SDS: Ma. Liza R. Tabilon EdD, CESO V
OIC-ASDS: Judith V. Romaguera, EdD
OIC-ASDS: Ma. Judelyn J. Ramos, EdD
OIC-ASDS: Armando P. Gumapon, EdD
CID Chief: Lilia E. Abello, EdD
LR: Evelyn C. Labad, EdD
PSDS: Reynaldo S. Alcala, PhD
Principal: Jennifer T. Bulanon, EMD

Printed in the Philippines by ________________________

Department ofEducation – Region– Zamboanga Peninsula IX
Office Address: Pres. Corazon C. Aquino Regional Government
Center, Balintawak, Pagadian City,
Zamboangadel Sur Province 1016
Telefax:Office Address:
Telefax: (062) 215-3753, 215-3751, 991-1907, 215-3789
E-mail Address: region9@deped.gov.ph

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 What I Need to Know

After going through this module, you are expected to:

1. Discuss assemble garment parts for cutting and sewing;

2. prepare cut parts for like pattern paper, cut out fabric with a pattern paper,
and cut fabric to make an athletic shirts, and prepare fabrics before cutting
and sewing;

3. Determine pressing techniques for home sewing and pressing during

construction.

4. Appreciate the importance of pressing method for different fiber contents.

What I Know

Multiple Choice

Directions: Read and analyze the questions below. Select the correct answer from
the letter of your choice and encircle it.

1. An essential part of any home sewing project.

A. Pressing C. Identification of Sewing Tools
B. Drafting D. Taking Body Measurement

2. Dry iron the paper pattern on a setting to get all the creases out.
A. heatless C. medium heat
B. low heat D. very heat

3. When laying out the next pattern piece there’s a line called the ,
which has to run parallel with the grain of the fabric.
A. grain line C. seam line
B. cutting line D. hemline

4. Once you’ve chosen which size dress you want to make, use a red pencil to mark
your chosen size cutting guides. This will make it easier to follow the
lines.
A. dashed C. marked
B. dotted D. grain

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 5. Is made of hard wood and is used to press points, curves and straight edges
A. Pressing table C. wood clapper
B. Ironing board D. point press

Lesson Prepare Fabric for Cutting and

Sewing

What’s In

How to cut fabric with a paper pattern

Preparing your paper pattern properly is a must when learning how to make a
dress. If you want a professional looking finished garment, make sure you follow our
expert’s tips when cutting out the paper pattern and your dress fabric too.

How to prepare a paper pattern

1.Remove the paper pattern from your pattern envelope and lay it out flat on
your table.

2. Once you’ve chosen which size dress you want to make, use a red pencil to
mark your chosen size cutting guides. This will make it easier to follow the
dashed lines.

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3. Use a pair of paper scissors to cut out all the paper pieces required for your
garment.

4. Dry iron the paper pattern on a low heat setting to get all the creases out.

How to cut out fabric to make a dress

1. Prepare your fabric by following the manufacturer’s instructions for washing.
Allow the fabric to dry and iron any creases before cutting.

2. Follow the layout guide found on the paper pattern instructions, these will show
you how to position the paper pattern on the fabric depending on your fabric’s
width.

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3. Fold your fabric in half, selvedge to selvedge which is the neat edge of the fabric.
Where the instructions say to place the paper pattern on the fold of the fabric,
place the paper section right up against the fold and pin in place.

4. When laying out the next pattern piece there’s a line called the grain line, which
has to run parallel with the grain of the fabric. To make sure the paper pattern is in
the right position, use a tape measure to measure that the line is the same distance
from the fold of the fabric all the way along.

5. To transfer the pattern notches to your fabric, mark the notches by cutting an
extra section out of the fabric to avoid snipping into your seam allowance. For double
notches, cut a wider one rather than two so it’s easily recognizable.

6. If you have markings to transfer, push a pin through the centre of the marking
and mark with dressmaker’s chalk, or a simple tailor’s tack with contrasting thread
and needle works well too.

7. Cut out the lining in exactly the same way.

What’s New

Activity 1
Direction: Give a brief explanation.

1. How to prepare a paper pattern?

2. How to cut out fabric to make a dress?

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 3. How to check if the garment is straight on grain?

4. How to straighten the grain in the fabric?

What is It

3 steps to prepare your fabric before cutting and sewing

You have bought yourself a beautiful fabric and are all eager to start sewing
right away. But before you start cutting, there’s a few things you need to do to get
the best result, especially when you’re sewing a garment. By doing so you will
prevent from shrinking and lose it’s hope.

Step 1 – Wash and dry the fabric

You have to wash and dry your fabric the same way you will wash and dry the
finished garment, and according to the care instruction for the fabric. This will
preshrink the fabric, and remove any excess coloring. This way you will avoid any
shrinking in the finished garment.

Step 2 – Press the fabric

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 Iron out any wrinkle before cutting. This will make it easier to work with as it
will lay flat on the surface as you cut it. Make sure you see the right temperature for
your fabric so you don’t damage it.

Pressing Techniques for home sewing

Pressing is an essential part of any home sewing project. Good pressing
techniques help to create a professional-looking garment. Correct pressing helps to
shape the fabric to your figure, flatten seams and edges, and save you time.

GENERAL TECHNIQUES

To gain skill in pressing, you need both the right equipment and the ―know-
how.‖ No amount of careful cutting, fitting and construction can make up for too
much, too little or incorrect pressing. Practice the eight procedures listed here and
you will soon become an expert.

1. Before pressing the garment you are making, always test-press a scrap of the
fabric first. Set the heat indicator for the type of fiber. For a blend, set the indicator
for the fiber requiring the lower temperature. For example, a polyester-wool blend
usually should be pressed at the temperature polyester requires. Test the fabric for
the amount of moisture, if any, needed to shape it. Also check to see which type of
press cloth gives the best results.

2. Thorough pressing during each construction step contributes to a precision look.

It makes following each construction step easier, thus saving you time. Very little
final pressing is necessary for a garment that has been properly pressed while being
made.

3. True pressing calls for a lowering and lifting (up and down) motion. This flattens
the seam or molds the detail without stretching the seam or distorting the grain.
Never push or drag the iron over the fabric.

4. All pressing should be done with the grain, just as in stitching. Press seams from
the wide to the narrow part of the garment--from the hem to the waist of the skirt,
from the neck to the sleeves at the shoulder, toward the point of a dart, etc.

5. Press curved seams and shaped areas over a pressing ham, roll or cushion
(Figure1). This helps mold the garment to the figure. It also helps the garment hold
its shape.
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6. Generally speaking, most pressing is done on the wrong side of the garment when
possible. If moisture is needed, use a steam iron or a damp cloth. For best results,
dampen the cloth with a sponge. When pressing on the right side of the garment,
protect the fabric with a cloth.

7. Press each seam, tuck or dart before it is joined to a seam or piece of fabric.
Basting threads should be removed before pressing. Steam pressing over basting
stitches will cause markings to appear in the fabric that, for many fabrics, are almost
impossible to remove.

8. Be sure the ironing board pad and cover are completely free of lumps and folds.
Many fabrics will pick up marks or develop a shine when pressed over any type of
unevenness. Keep the soleplate of the iron clean and free of any scratches.

9. Take care not to over press which can remove surface texture and create shine.

PRESSING DURING CONSTRUCTION

Darts

First press the dart on the fold with the tip of the iron (Figure 2). Then press
the dart toward the center back or center front of the garment, using a tailor’s ham
(Figure 3). Underarm and sleeve darts are turned downward. Double pointed and
curved darts need to give at the fold or be clipped at the center for a better line.
Darts in very heavy fabrics may be cut open almost to the point. Press open darts the
same way as an open seam, forming a small box pleat at the point.

Hems

Press the fold of the hem after the hem is marked, basted, trimmed, and eased
at the top. However, do not press over the bastings.

Direct the iron from the lower edge of the hem, always with the grain. You
might put heavy paper between the hem and the garment to prevent the hemline
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from marking the right side (Figure 4). Shrink the ease in the hem, when necessary,
by steaming it with a steam iron or a damp press cloth. A final pressing on the right
side usually improves the appearance of the skirt. If you prefer not to have a crease
in the fold of the hem, steam press the hem by holding the steam iron slightly above
the hem. Do not actually touch the iron to the fabric. Pat the dampened hem line
with your hand to give it a look.

Seams

For all seams, press along the stitching line in the same direction as the seam
was sewn. When possible, open the seam flat with the tip of the iron.

Flat Seam

The point press is made of hard wood and is used to press points, curves and
straight edges (Figure 7). It enables you to press seams flat and open without
wrinkling the surrounding area.

The sleeve board is designed for pressing small or slim areas, such as sleeves,
that do not fit over your regular ironing board (Figure 8). It should have a silicone
cover and padding.

The clapper is a block of smooth wood. It is used along with steam to flatten
seam edges (Figure 9), and a ―must‖ for tailoring. To use, make as much steam as
possible with steam iron and/or iron with a damp press cloth. Remove iron quickly
while steam is still present and pound area firmly. Regulate your pressure to suit the
desired edge. Do not use clapper on fabrics with pile or hair, as the pile will crush or
the fibers may break. An 8-10" piece of hardwood 2 x 4 makes a good substitute for a
commercial clapper.

Figure 10

The needle board is used to press pile and easily marred woolens fabric to
prevent them from flattening (Figure 10). The fabric is placed face down on the board
so that the pile falls in between the needles. Sometimes a heavy terry bath towel can
be substituted when a needle board is not available.

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 The press cloth is one of the most important pressing items (Figure 11). It is
used to prevent shine and to protect your fabric from direct heat. An extra scrap of
your fashion fabric makes an excellent press cloth! Otherwise select a cloth that is
similar in weight to your fabric. A cloth that is approximately 12 x 18" makes a good
size. Generally speaking, a wool cloth is best to hold in the moisture when pressing
wool, firm cotton is great for cottons, and medium weight blends. A large piece of
cheese cloth can be folded, manipulated and adapted to most pressing situations.

PRESSING METHODS FOR DIFFERENT FIBER CONTENTS

For best results, adapt the amount of heat, moisture, and pressure you use to
the fiber content of the fabric. If you don’t know the fiber content, test the fabric
cautiously and begin with a low temperature.

 Linen requires high temperature and much moisture. Press on the

wrong side to prevent shine, or use a cloth for right-side pressing. Press
until the fabric is completely dry.
 Cotton requires a fairly high temperature and some moisture. Easy-care
finishes require less heat and moisture. Heavy or very firmly woven
cottons may need more moisture than a steam iron supplies. Press
cottons on the right side for a smooth or shiny finish; on the wrong side
for a dull finish. Press fabric until completely dry.
 Wool requires a moderate temperature and always needs some
moisture. Do NOT press completely dry. For right-side pressing, protect
the fabric with a wool press cloth. Avoid heavy pressure on most
woolens.
 Silk requires moderate temperature and little, if any, moisture. Press on
the wrong side. Prevent water spotting by using a dry cloth next to the
fabric and a damp cloth on top, or use a steam iron and a dry cloth.
 Rayon takes a moderate temperature. Test for the amount of moisture
to use. Press on the wrong side, or use a press cloth for right-side
pressing to prevent a shine.
 Lyocell (Tencel™) can be pressed on a rayon setting—moderate
temperature. Depending on the texture of the fabric, it may be
acceptable to press on the right side. If in doubt, press on the right side
using a press cloth.
 Acetate requires a low temperature and little moisture. It will melt or
glaze under a hot iron. Press the fabric on the wrong side or use a cloth
for any necessary right-side pressing to prevent a shine. Never press
completely dry.
 Nylon and acrylic require low temperatures and little pressure. Protect
the fabric with a press cloth. A steam iron can be used for most of these
fabrics. Follow the pressing directions given on the label or the tag.
 Polyester requires from low to medium temperature and slight pressure.
It is best to press from the wrong side; protect the right side with a
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 press cloth to prevent shining. Steam can be used on most fabrics.
Follow the manufacturer’s recommendation.
 Modacrylic requires a VERY LOW temperature. Press only if necessary.
Protect the fabric with a dry press cloth. Do not use a steam iron--
moisture lowers the melting point of modacrylic.
 Other manufactured fiber fabrics should have the same general
precautions taken as recommended for those above–low heat and the
protection of a press cloth are safeguards against heat damage. The
important point to keep in mind is that these fibers are heat sensitive–
some to a high degree, some less so. Any damage done to such fabrics
caused by heat cannot be undone. Always follow the directions on the
label or hangtag.
 Blends should usually be pressed at the lowest temperature required by
any one of the fibers in the blend. Some blends are difficult to press
well when the fibers in the blend call for widely-differing temperatures.

Step 3 – Check if the fabric is on grain, and straighten it if it’s not

The fabric may have been pulled off grain during production, and need to be
straightened before you cut. If you skip this step, you risk the finished garment to be
off grain, meaning it will twist and hang unevenly on the body.

How to check if the garment is straight on grain

Straight grain means that the lengthwise yarns (warp) of the fabric run
perpendicular to the crosswise yarns (weft). To find out if its straight, you must first
establish a straight line across, from selvage to selvage. If your fabric allows it,
simply pull out a thread near the cut edge from selvage to selvage. If not, pull a
thread a thread until the fabric puckers along the thread. Keep bunching the fabric
and pulling every few inches until the pucker reaches the opposite selvage. Both
methods will give you a straight line across the fabric. Using this thread line as your
guide, cut all the way across the fabric.

Then fold the fabric lengthwise so the selvages align. If the grain, the corners
will line up, and you are ready to go. If not, one corner will be shorter than the other,
and you need to straighten it.

How to straighten the grain

Hold the short corner in one hand (or have someone hold it for you if you have
a large fabric piece), and the opposite corner with the other hand. Gently stretch the
fabric diagonally.

Fold the fabric again to check if the corners match up. If not, repeat the
process until it does.

The selvage is the edge produced on woven fabric during manufacture that
prevents it from unraveling. This it’s not the cut edge from when you buy fabric of a
roll.

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 What’s More

Activity2
MATCHING TYPE
Directions: Match Column A (description) with Column B (corresponding answer).
Column A Column B
1. Requires a very low temperature. a. Acetate
Press only if necessary.

2. Should usually be pressed at the lowest b. Linen

temperature required by any one of the
fibers in the blend. c. Modacrylic

3. Requires high temperature and much moisture.

4. One of the most important pressing items. d. Sleeve Board

5. A block of smooth wood. e. Curved Seam

6. It should have a silicone cover and padding. f. Blends

7. Can be pressed on a rayon setting with moderate g. Clapper

temperature.

8. It will melt or glaze under a hot iron. h.Lyocell

9. Used to press pile and easily marred woolens

fabric to prevent them from flattening . i. Needle Board

10. Place on a tailor’s ham, press mitt or pressing j. Press Cloth

roll to maintain roundness then press as for
a flat seam.

What I Have Learned

Multiple Choices

Direction: Select the best answer and write only the letter on the space provided
before the numbers.

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 1. Requires a moderate temperature and always needs some moisture.
a. Rayon b. Lyocell c. Wool d. Silk
2. Requires moderate temperature and little, if any, moisture.
a. Rayon b. Lyocell c. Wool d. Silk
3. The edge produced on woven fabric during manufacture that prevents it
from unraveling.
a. Selvage b. grain c. press cloth d. clapper
4. It is best to press from the wrong side; protect the right side with a press
cloth to prevent shining.
a. Polyester b. Silk c. Cotton d. Rayon
5. Easy-care finishes require less heat and moisture.
a. Lyocell b. Cotton c. Modacrylic d. Wool

What I Can Do

Activity 3:
Direction: Supply the missing words in a blank.
1. All pressing should be done with the grain, just as in .
Press seams from the wide to the narrow part of the garment--from the
of the skirt, from the neck to the sleeves at the shoulder, toward the
point of a dart, etc.

2. Thorough during each construction step contributes to a

precision look. It makes following each construction step easier, thus saving you
time. Very little is necessary for a garment that has
been properly pressed while being made.

3. Be sure the ironing board pad and cover are completely free of
. Many fabrics will pick up marks or develop a shine when
pressed over any type of . Keep the of
the iron clean and free of any scratches.

4. Place such as a collar, over the edge of a point press (Figure 7).
Open the seam with the tip of the . Remove from the point presser and
turn right side out. Roll the seam slightly to the underside and press using a
. A good rule to remember is to press seams open when
possible before pressing them closed.

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 Assessment
Directions: Read and analyze the questions below. Select and encircle the correct
answer from the letter of your choice.
1. It enables you to press seams flat and open without wrinkling the surrounding area.
A. Press cloth C. sleeve board
B. clapper D. point press
2. In pressing during constructions, what part of the fabric we are going to press first.

A. Dart C. Seam
B. Hem D. Grain
3. To find out if its straight grain, you must first establish a straight line across, from
selvage to .
A. cutting line C. hem
B. facing D. Selvage
4. Steam pressing over will cause markings to appear in the fabric that, for
many fabrics, are almost impossible to remove.
A. Basting Stitches C. Blanket Stitches
B. Chain stitches D. Running Stitches
5. Require low temperatures and little pressure. A steam iron can be used for most of these
fabrics.
A. Nylon C. Acetate
B. Cotton D. Silk
6. It will melt or glaze under a hot iron.
A. Rayon C. Acetate
B.Modacrylic D. Silk
7. Requires a fairly high temperature and some moisture.
A. Lyocell C. Polyester
B. Silk D. Cotton
8. It is an example of equipment in pressing during construction, except.
A. Sleeve Board C. Clapper
B. Press cloth D. Curved Seam
9. Requires from low to medium temperature and slight pressure.
A. Rayon C. Silk
B. Polyester D. Lyocell
10. A clapper as a may be used on the seam line to insure a flat seam.
A. mono block C. pounding block
B. hollow blocks D. punched block

Additional Activities

Research on the Procedure in assembling athletic shirts and preparing parts

for sewing
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 Answer Key

References
http://www.notetoself.no/2017/08/25/how-i-prepare-my-fabric-before-cutting-it/
http://webcache.googleusercontent.com/search?q=cache:9dtABPWHv4oJ:www.notetoself.no/2017/0
8/25/how-i-prepare-my-fabric-before-cutting-it/+&cd=15&hl=en&ct=clnk&gl=ph

https://www.womansweekly.com/sewing/how-to-make-a-dress-how-to-cut-fabric-with-a-
paperpattern-19094/
https://webcache.googleusercontent.com/search?q=cache:TsU1sTRv6GIJ:https://www.womansweekl
y.com/sewing/how-to-make-a-dress-how-to-cut-fabric-with-a-paper-pattern-
19094/+&cd=16&hl=en&ct=clnk&gl=ph

To simplify information in this publication, trade names of some products are used. No endorsement is
intended nor criticism implied of similar products not named. *Prepared by Rachel Wallace, former
staff member. Revised by Bette Jo Dedic, retired Extension Clothing Specialist, and Marsha Herndon,
former Extension Clothing Specialist.

Revised by Linda Heaton, Ph.D. Extension Professor for Textiles & Clothing 6/96, 1/02

https://fcs-hes.ca.uky.edu/sites/fcs-hes.ca.uky.edu/files/ct-lmh-019.pdf.

https://webcache.googleusercontent.com/search?q=cache:rKWW5kmg0OMJ:https://fcs-
hes.ca.uky.edu/sites/fcs-hes.ca.uky.edu/files/ct-lmh-019.pdf+&cd=8&hl=en&ct=clnk&gl=ph

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