Gyraf Audio - DIY 1176
Gyraf Audio - DIY 1176
Gyraf Audio - DIY 1176
I will try to update this page reguarly if anyone shows interest in its topics. Comments and
corrections are welcome, but I can't promise to reply to all mail. If you do a project and describe it
on your webpage, I'll be more than happy to add a link here, so others can benefit from your
experiences.
Disclaimer: Notice that all information, schematics, layouts etc. are supplied "as is", and that we
can in no way be held responsible for its acurateness, functionality or even safety.
Gyraf Audio shall not be responsible and disclaims all liability for any loss, liability, damage
(whether direct or consequential) or expense of any nature whatsoever which may be suffered as a
result of or which may be attributable, directly or indirectly, to the use of or reliance upon any
information, links or service provided through this website.
The G1176:
A classic FET compressor. Not tubes, but a nice do-it-yourself project. Click the picture to see a
series of pics of the first one being made.
This is an adaption of the original UREI 1176 LN rev#F to components and parts that is available
(hopefully) everywhere. Adaption includes changing to standard european transistors, component
values, Lundall output transformer and rotary switches for easier enclosure layout.
We have updated the schematic to show approximate expected voltages around the transistors for
easier error-tracing.
NOTE: The PCB drawing is MIRROR'ED for easier printing, see the Pultec-DIY-page for details.
Here you can find a PDF- version of the complete 1176 manual, including adjustment procedure
and all. Observe, that this is a VERY large file - 7.67MB. Rightclick the link and select "save as.."
to save this on your own machine. Better get this while it's still there...
http://classes.berklee.edu/mpe/pdf_files/manuals_pdf/urei_1176ln.pdf
- Check component values before soldering in. Check specially resistors with an Ohm-meter.
- If using NTE substitutes for semiconductors, make absolutely sure that they are actually also pin-
compatible. Some DIY'ers has had problems with this.
- Use a heat sink for the 7824 voltage regulator. A small one will often do.
- Check and double check the PCB for shorts and solder blobs before powering up.
- Remember that transistors aren't very forgiving. If they have been mounted wrong and powere'd
up once, there's a good chance they are destroyed. Replace on suspicion.
- Make sure that the centre tap of the 2x24V at the power transformer is connected to ground
- Connect 0V/Ground to chassis at - and only at - the input XLR(F) connector. Here you can also
connect the mains power ground from the IEC power connector if you need that.
- Note that the LL1540 input transformer is OPTIONAL. The "real" 1176 LN rev#F uses the
electronically balanced input. The input transformer option is there simply because I like what it
does for the sound. But it's not used in the original.
1: "Q Bias". This is set by bypassing the unit, putting through a signal, adjusting in- and outlevel so
output is around +1dB, and adjusting the trimmer untill a level drop of 1dB is acheived. This sets
the FET start point in the beginning of it's conducting range.
:
2: "Dist. trim". Bypass the unit, input a ~1kHz, ~0dB signal, set unit gain to unity (by input- and
output controls), and set trimmer for minimum distortion. If you have no dist.meter, simply set at
middle position. Somehow this is not an important adjustment soundwise.
3: "GR meter Zero". No input signal. Meter switch in GR mode. Adjust untill meter reads 0dBVU.
4: "GR meter Trck" (tracking). Set ratio to 1:20, set Meter to bypass. Input a 1kHz, 50mV signal.
Set input level to ~12'oclock. Set output level so you get 50mV at the output also (now you have
unity gain). Now set the meter switch to "GR". Slowly turn up the level of your input signal (at the
signal source, not with the input level control) while you monitor both input- and output levels with
a voltmeter. When you reach a point where output level is half the input level, you have 6dB of
gain reduction in the unit. Now set the "GR meter Trck" trimmer so the VU-meter reads -6dBVU.
Remove input signal and (re)set "GR meter Zero" for a reading of 0dBVU. This calibrates the gr
indication.
TroubleShooting:
- If you have problems, Please read the (rather long) Recording.org 1176 post before asking for
help (also in that thread preferably, please):
..no, sorry. That collection of information was shut down. Now we're reconstructing as much as
this as we can on our new hangout:
http://www.groupdiy.com/
Orson Whitfield from GroupDIY has written a very good, compressed version of the thread about
getting the G1176 running and fixing possible flaws. This is a great resource if you have problems
during the process. Actually also worth a read before you are getting started:
By popular demand, here's information about how to include the hyped "Slam" or "Nuke" mode in
this version of the 1176:
Slam/Nuke Mode Switch
ERRATA:..
28-04-2002: Peter Cornell mailed me with an error he'd found in the 1176 layout: The BF245 FET
for metering gain reduction is connected mistakenly. This is corrected on PCB REV#6, 04-2002.
01-07-2002: Steffen Mueller mailed me, reminding me to mention that the VCA FETs - the BF
245's - must be the "A" type, the cutoff voltage being around -2V.
And the BC107C's does'nt really have to be "C" types - a lot of people have had problems getting
hold on these. Go with the "B" type, it has plenty of Hfe for our purposes.
18-07-2002: Frank Rollen points out, that the BC107's on the main PCB, rev#6 are wierdly
mounted, making assembleying hard.Actually these TO18-housings are by error wieved from the
pcb-side. No harm should be done if you use the rev#6 board, and just bend the middle transistor
leg (the base) across to the hole. Remember to have the small metal edge on the transistor facing
the "E". Also updated the orientation of Q8, BD517, shown the wrong way around.
23-10-2002: Updated schematic to show static DC voltages. This can be very usefull when tracking
down errors..
06-11-2002: UPDATED THE COMPONENT LIST. NOW BETTER SIMILARITY WITH THE
PCB. 21-01-2004: Gerber files added, thanks to Mikkel C. Simonsen!
If you let me know how you're managing this project - and if you have information that could
interest other diy-people - I could link to it, or put it on this page.
In the meantime, check out the GroupDIY/Kev DIY-Page on Recording.org, with a lot of good
links for this type of projects:
MNATS's 1176 PAGE - one of the best webpages covering this project - there even is an alternative
PCB board layout:
On the "LAB" forum at www.groupdiy.org there is a thread about correcting possible errors you
may encount in the G1176:
http://www.groupdiy.com/
Also check out Juergen Haible's webpage about making your own 1176:
www.oldcrows.net/~jhaible/compressor
HOME
Shown:
01-2003 Jakob Erland
06-11-2002
: