Entrepreneur Loh Lik Peng on

showing up and adding value to April 2024 $9

our cultural and public institutions

 AROUND ASIA
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American photographer Melinda Wang, co-founder
Marilyn Minter shot an and CEO of the skincare
exclusive self-portrait brand Nomel and a Gen.T
for Tatler, and discussed honouree, spoke about
how her art reclaims positivity, confidence—and
agency over how female why Michelle Obama’s SHANGLIU TATLER
bodies are portrayed. views on love is a blueprint Taiwanese designer
for her marriage to actor Celia Chu spoke to Tatler
Tony Yang. about the rarity of women
in power in the hotel
industry—whether owners,
managers or designers like
herself—and her unique
insights on one of the most
crucial elements of hotel
design: the bathroom.

TATLER PHILIPPINES
Industrial designer
Kenneth Cobonpue talked
about how he wants the
world to recognise great,
modern Filipino design—

PHOTOGRAPHY FADY YOUNIS (MY); STEVEN PASCUA (PH); WEI YU (TW) IMAGES MARILYN MINTER (HK); KERBSIDE&CO (SG)
and how his projects are
helping make that happen.
TATLER THAILAND
Tatler sat down with
Amorpol Huvanandana,
the founder of Moreloop,
a waste textile recycling
company, to talk about how
his business is making the
world a better place, once TATLER SINGAPORE
scrap of fabric at a time. Fahmy Ismail, founder
of local denim brand
Kerbside&Co, spoke to
Tatler about eschewing
trends and fashion
TATLER MALAYSIA schedules, and focusing
Olympic diver and instead on exacting
“national unity icon” quality standards.
Pandelela Rinong opened
up about the pressures
of being an athlete, and
her aspirations to inspire To read these
Malaysians to celebrate stories, please scan
4 their differences. the QR code
 52
Unexpected
Rewards
Why entrepreneur
Loh Lik Peng spends
about a third of
his time serving
our cultural and
public institutions
22

26

24 44 48

DEPARTMENTS 28 Second Nature Organization for Migration

City Developments Limited Economics is challenging On the Cover
12 Letter from chief sustainability officer systemic injustices
the Editor Esther An’s vision for a
14 Editor’s Picks climate‑resilient future 44 For All Seasons
18 The Guest List Checkpoint Theatre’s
32 Renita Sophia Crasta Huzir Sulaiman and
THE SCENE Addressing issues Claire Wong talk theatre‑
facing women, seniors, making in Singapore
22 Spin City low‑income families and
Analogue listening comes migrant workers 48 Creative Renaissance
together with culinary Biro founders Kage and
and mixology elements at 34 Art of Our Time Keng How Chong herald
these establishments UBS Art Collection global a return to their roots
head Mary Rozell discusses
24 Conscious its approach to collecting STYLE Photography Darren Gabriel Leow
Consumption art and supporting artists Styling Debby Kwong
Grooming Nikki Fu using Nars
Zerrin founder Susannah 62 Style Picks Outfit Moncler
Jaffer on championing 38 Creative Pluralism What’s trending in fashion
sustainable fashion Rye’s Bessie Ye discusses
her commitment to 64 It’s About Time
26 The Weird, Wild considered designs Designer Tamara Ralph
and Whimsical talks about her fearless
How environmentalist 40 The Courage comeback and the joy of
Woo Qiyun is of Conviction designing couture
making sustainability Stephanie Chok shares
6 more accessible how the Humanitarian
 152
68 136

Food for Thought

Singapore‑based chefs
share how they are
creating more sustainable
dining experiences

92
118

68 Common Thread 116 Design Archives FEATURES 164 Finding His Wild
Kebaya makers and Cartier takes visitors on an Eddy Downpatrick went
connoisseurs in Singapore immersive voyage through 136 The Risk Taker from finance to fashion
share what the traditional its illustrious history Veteran diplomat and to facilitating once‑in‑
dress mean to them in timepieces academic Kishore a‑lifetime adventures
Mahbubani on his
78 Height of Fashion 118 Green is the upcoming memoir 168 Across the Water
We explore the latest New Black Embark on a modern‑day
youthful couture pieces The best green watches 140 Women on Boards transatlantic crossing
from spring 2024 from LVMH Watch Week BoardAgender, an initiative
of the Singapore Council 174 House Expression
90 Beauty Picks 120 A Close Watch of Women’s Organisations, Tatler Singapore previews
What’s new in skincare Luxury watch brands aims to reshape the Martell Single Cru
and make‑up are rethinking their boardroom dynamics collection’s six exquisite
manufacturing and expressions in Cognac,
92 A Whiff of Fragrance supply chains, as 144 Martial Moves France, ahead of its
The savoir faire behind well as their efforts A new generation of launch in Singapore
L’Oreal’s luxury perfumery towards sustainability Eurasian action and
martial arts film stars 176 Haute Spots
96 The Wish List JEWELLERY navigate their identities Cindy Chua‑Tay shares her
Everything you need to look and find new purpose New York City hotspots.
your best this month 124 Jewellery Picks from the craft
The latest in jewellery
WATCHES 158 As Above
130 Hidden Haven Don’t forget to look
110 Watches Picks Van Cleef & Arpels’s new up when you stay at
The most current tickers space at Raffles Singapore these five‑star hotels 7
 EDITORIAL
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 LET TER FROM THE EDITOR

Stepping
Up and
Speaking Out
I’ve had the great pleasure of knowing this month’s cover
personality, Loh Lik Peng, for almost 20 years. One of the
things that has always impressed me about Peng, which
rarely comes up in the multitude of accolades associated
with him, is his behind‑the‑scenes, and entirely voluntary,
work for so many of our cultural institutions. Most people
only know him for the many restaurants and hotels he has
helped to create and launch. But he has also, for so many
years, been contributing a lot of his time to help steer
multiple and diverse organisations, from the Singapore
Cruise Centre to the School of the Arts Singapore,
the Singapore Land Authority, the Asian Civilisations
Museum, the now‑defunct Singapore Philatelic Museum,
and more. This month, we sat down with Loh to discuss Loh Lik Peng,
civic duty and why he feels a responsibility to (quietly) offer photographed
at the stunning
his experience, network, and opinions in driving public state property at
and cultural policies here in Singapore. 5 Kadayanallur
Street managed
This issue also features another great group of by the Singapore
volunteers: the mentors who take part in the Singapore Land Authority
Council of Women’s Organisations’ BoardAgender
initiative. BoardAgender is dedicated to advancing more running the Lee Kuan Yew School of Public Policy, he has
women into senior leadership roles and boardrooms here certainly earned the right to share his views. This year,
in Singapore. While nearly half of our population is female, he publishes his most personal book yet: a memoir that
only a small percentage of the vast pool of skilled women will offer readers a rare glimpse into a life marked by risks
are represented in the senior ranks of corporations. Last and rewards.
month, features editor Nafeesa Saini wrote a fantastic We hope you enjoy these and the other stories we’ve put
PHOTOGRAPHY DARREN GABRIEL LEOW (LOH); JASPER YU (KOH)

article profiling four Singaporean women in global together for you. As always, thank you for reading and see
leadership positions in notable MNCs. This month, she you at our next community event.
looks at this much‑needed initiative as well as some of the
inspiring and very successful women that are mentoring
their younger peers, helping to groom a new generation of
Singaporean female business leaders.
Also in this issue, we speak with professor Kishore
Mahbubani, the experienced diplomat and academic.
Mahbubani has long made headlines for his willingness
to share his opinions on public policy and geopolitics.
With a career that includes more than three decades at the
Ministry of Foreign Affairs (including a term as permanent
12 secretary, the highest civil service rank) and 13 years – Aun Koh, editor-in-chief
 THE BAG
The latest
iteration of
Loewe’s Flamenco
Purse, famed for
its flamenco skirt
silhouette, comes
in soft nappa
lambskin, with
a donut chain
strap as well as an
adjustable leather
one, offering
versatility as
IMAGE LOEWE

a clutch and
a shoulder or
14 crossbody bag.
 THE SKINCARE
Dior has refreshed two of its icons from the Dior
Prestige range with advanced formulas for skin
radiance. La Solution Lumière Activated Serum
boasts the White Rosapeptide, an exclusive
blend of a peptide that bolsters skin density; a
niacinamide‑rich brightening complex; and
extracts of Rose de Granville and white rose,
which are known for their reparative and
regenerative properties, to tackle signs of ageing.
The L’Oléo‑Essence Lumière lotion, meanwhile,
introduces a dual‑action blend of exfoliating
polyhydroxy acids and alpha‑hydroxy acids,
combined with Rose de Granville sap, white
rose extract and stabilised vitamin C to
revitalise skin and enhance brightness
while lightening dark spots.
IMAGE DIOR BEAUTY

15
 THE NECKLACE
An ode to Chanel founder Gabrielle Chanel’s
astrological sign, Leo, the new Lion Solaire de
Chanel collection is anchored by a majestic lion
motif. A powerful symbol in the style vocabulary
and designs of the house, it takes centre stage in
this necklace from the collection, which is crafted
in white gold and set with diamonds of various cuts.
IMAGE CHANEL

16
 THE WATCH
For its 150th anniversary this year, Piaget unveiled a refreshed
Piaget Polo 79 watch that maintains the distinctive style of
the original from 1979, but with a few subtle updates. Crafted
entirely in yellow gold and with a larger 38 mm case, the watch
is equipped with the ultra‑thin 1200P1 in‑house self‑winding
calibre, which replaces the previous quartz movement.
IMAGE PIAGET

17
 THE GUEST LIST

CHERRY MUI
Cherry Mui is the DARREN GABRIEL
fashion director at LEOW
ANTOINE AND Tatler Hong Kong. Growing A fashion and commercial
CHARLIE up between Chengdu and photographer based
The Paris-based Hong Kong, her work is KAREN TEE in Singapore, Darren
photographer and director influenced by the aesthetics Karen Tee finds joy in Gabriel Leow frequently
couple specialise in brand of east and west, classic sparking inspiration and contributes to Tatler
look books, portraits, and digital, and nostalgia positive action through her Singapore and other
fashion shoots and and the future, and has work. Her love for writing luxury lifestyle and
landscape photography, and been featured in Vogue and is only surpassed by her fashion publications, as
present fashion through Ming’s, among others. For love for yoga, which is why well as shoots campaigns
their minimalistic aesthetic. this issue, she styled the she considers the mat her for various local and
The pair have previously fashion shoot. second home. In this issue, international brands.
worked with Chanel, she embarked on an He shot entrepreneur
Tiffany & Co and Cartier. Atlantic Ocean crossing Loh Lik Peng, who is on
They had fun matching the on a grand ocean liner the cover this month, as
colour tones of the outfits well as environmentalist
with the set in this month’s Woo Qiyun.
fashion shoot.

18
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 PHOTOGRAPHY DARREN GABRIEL LEOW (LOH, WOO)
Environmentalist
Woo Qiyun.
Opposite page:
Restaurateur
and hotelier
Loh Lik Peng
Making sustainability
more accessible with
environmentalist
Woo Qiyun, how
the Humanitarian
Organization for
Migration Economics
is working towards
a fairer future for
migrant workers,
and entrepreneur
Loh Lik Peng on
making time to
serve our cultural and
public institutions
 THE SCENE | OFF MENU

Spin City
Analogue listening comes
together with culinary and
mixology elements at these
establishments, culminating
in one‑of‑a‑kind experiences
By Dawson Tan

engaging with. The

Listening Room at
the restaurant houses
a collection of more
than 3,000 records
spanning genres
such as Afro‑Cuban
jazz, 1970s rock
and 1990s R&B.
These are best enjoyed alongside
ALL SENSES
eclectic plates imbued with Brehm’s
APPETITE crossroads cooking philosophy.
The play on nostalgia, subtle crackle This potpourri of cultural
of vinyl and spine‑tingling vocals references and experimental
from iconic albums bring forth a culinary techniques ultimately
transcendent dining experience feeds the soul and the stomach.
at Appetite. Borne out of a desire
to appreciate the analogue arts, ANALOGUE ARIA

chef‑owner Ivan Brehm offers SIMPLY ANALOG BY TIN BOX

guests the opportunity to deeply Vinyl records have always inspired
connect with themselves as Adrian Leong, founder of the
well as what they are eating and multi‑concept lifestyle brand Tin
22 listening to, and the art they are Box Group, in shaping the identity
 From top: Slow
Boat; Vertigo26.
Opposite page,
clockwise from
top: Tortilla de
Camarones at
Appetite; the record
collection at Simply
Analog by Tin Box;
the Listening Room
at Appetite

of his music‑led venues. Simply produced in the 1960s, which still basement of the Mint Museum of
Analog by Tin Box is no different. sound incredible today. To enhance Toys home and is a record store by
The vinyl‑listening bar preserves the listening experience, the duo day, with high‑quality speakers and
the retro charm by exclusively tap into their penchant for coffee a vinyl collection spanning more
curating music from a voluminous and whisky to serve up a modest than 1,000 records for in‑house
record collection, balancing the beverage curation—and may listening. A pledge to the warmth
contemporaries of today with a perhaps even plate up some dishes of vinyl, which is said to be more
pedigree of modern mixology. in future. conducive and less harsh on the
The team has even formulated a ears as compared to digital sources,
menu of quaffable cocktails that VINYL VORTEX
one can revel in crisp and clear
draw from music’s greatest hits. VERTIGO26 music yet still hold down a proper
Looking for some DJ action? Pop Masterminded by music and conversation within its urbane
in on Wednesdays and Fridays, film industry veterans Eric Chan interiors. When the clock strikes
when the vinyl turntables are and Simon Chia, Vertigo26 is a five in the afternoon, the space
primed for veteran DJs. These live sanctuary tailored for both seasoned transforms into a bar, where you will
performances—a key element to audiophiles as well as the new find head bartender Cedric Seth
PHOTOGRAPHY MELVIN WONG (SLOW BOAT) IMAGES APPETITE; SIMPLY ANALOG BY TIN BOX; VERTIGO26

the group—will cajole to the crowd’s generation of music fans who want (formerly of Horse’s Mouth) shaking
preferences with curated playlists, to experience the analogue warmth up slick cocktails, and the kitchen
elevating the overall analogue that only vinyl records can provide. dishing out hearty Singaporean
listening experience. Hidden from plain sight, it calls the and Japanese‑inspired nosh.
SONIC REVIVAL

SLOW BOAT
Forget modern music streaming
platforms where algorithms replace
intuition. At Slow Boat, billed as
Singapore’s first vinyl‑listening
cafe, guests can play a vinyl record
of their choice on a personal player
for a profound listening experience.
With Slow Boat, siblings Kathy and
Kevin Chu simply wanted to create
a relaxing space where people can
enjoy listening to music. There are
more than 600 records of varying
genres—from the modern hits of
Taylor Swift to the classic sounds
of David Bowie—including those 23
 THE SCENE | CLOSE-UP

level. Jaffer observes: “[The

situation has] reached a tipping
point [where,] much like buzzwords
such as ‘Black Friday’, [such terms]
don’t excite us anymore from a
marketing perspective.”
To navigate this challenge, Jaffer
turned to pop‑ups as a strategic tool
to connect with consumers. More
than sales opportunities, they are
what she calls “concentrated learning
experiences” for Zerrin, as they offer
direct insights into attitudes towards
sustainable products. Whether
through pop‑ups or its e‑commerce
platform, Zerrin distinguishes itself
from other sustainable retail sites
or independent shopping fairs by
playing curator. “There’s significant
competition … but we make our
smaller and more intimate events feel
like curated stores,” she says, sharing
that she is “selective and strategic”
in her approach, which involves
research, building relationships
with brands, and attentiveness

Conscious
to cultural trends and consumer
preferences. She strives for diversity
in her selections as well, catering to
different fashion sensibilities, from

Consumption
minimalist designs
to bold prints and artisanal pieces.
This curation also involves
refreshing pop‑ups with
new‑to‑Singapore brands. Zerrin’s
recent Crafting Change: Best of Asia
Zerrin founder Susannah Jaffer shares how the event in Anchorpoint, for example,
e‑commerce and media platform is driving the featured both local and international
names. “I always find that mixing
dialogue on sustainable fashion beyond buzzwords, them uplifts both parties, as it [offers
through curation, content and community By Nafeesa Saini more harmony among] independent
designers, responsible brands and
The fashion industry today reflects noticed the absence of sustainable
a broader societal reckoning with retail platforms that merge careful
its shift towards sustainability curation, community involvement
and ethical consumerism. This and engaging content. Motivated to
is mirrored in the personal and counter the overconsumption of fast
professional trajectories of fashion, she founded Zerrin in 2017.
Susannah Jaffer, the founder of Today, Jaffer is recognised as
Zerrin, a Singapore‑based curated a steward of sustainable fashion
marketplace and media platform in Singapore. However, for all
championing emerging brands and of the sector’s strides towards
sustainable consumption. sustainability, therein lies a
After moving to Singapore from growing challenge of consumer
the UK in 2012, Jaffer worked as a desensitisation, brought on by
magazine editor, gradually shifting the overuse of terms such as
her focus towards emerging brands “sustainability” and “sustainable
committed to environmental and fashion” in the media and retail
24 social responsibility. Over time, she spaces, as well as on a governmental
 sake of pop‑ups, and a now‑defunct
physical store at Marina One. “For
a year and a half, I worked almost
seven days a week, non‑stop, to man
the physical store, run the business,
and concurrently do our media
content and agency work,” she
says. “I burnt myself out. But
I was adamant that this was what
we had to do, because it was what
our customers and brands
wanted. It benefited us too.”
From left: Zerrin’s While Jaffer admits that
Crafting Change: Best
of Asia pop‑up the decision to close the
in Anchorpoint, Marina One space was a hard
which featured a
curated selection of one, she says that it was one
sustainable brands; of the factors that led her to
Zerrin’s pop‑ups
comprise a mix of a personal revelation about
vendors, including the importance of listening
jewellery brands.
Opposite page, from to one’s own voice in business.
top: Zerrin’s founder “Ultimately, the foundation of
Susannah Jaffer;
shoppers at Zerrin’s
what I wanted for the business
recent pop‑up became shaky because I was
listening to everyone too much.
sustainable practices. It’s not often of independent brands being truly It has been challenging to divorce
that all of these brands are together good quality and worth the higher myself from the idea that the value
in one place,” she says. price points,” she explains. of my business is defined by what
In selecting for Zerrin’s Jaffer emphasises the importance others are saying,” she shares.
pop‑ups and online store, the team of creating memorable experiences Jaffer is choosing “balance” as
scrutinises each brand’s collection for visitors at Zerrin pop‑ups, her word of the year. “There’s so
to assemble a diverse and unique regardless of whether they make a much to do day‑to‑day, with so
selection based on an understanding purchase. “We’re not hard‑selling many deliverables, whether it’s
of customer preferences and the to people,” she says. “We curate store operations, or shoots and
synergy among the different brands. the best, tell the story, share it and production. I lost my own voice
“We make sure that the brands don’t promote all the brands. I want [those within all of that,” she says. “Now,
IMAGES SUSANNAH JAFFER, ZERRIN

compete. We want each of them to who visit us] to walk away [having I’m building the business that I want
stand out from a design and value found] something they love, or at first. My own personal challenge is
proposition perspective,” Jaffer least, having learnt something.” to refine and retune that.”
expounds. Zerrin is also committed This philosophy is the intention Zerrin will persist with
to providing constructive feedback behind each pop‑up—to offer an pop‑ups, which Jaffer values for
to brands on aspects such as fit and educational, enriching experience their flexibility as well as ability
silhouette, which is not commonly that resonates with clients on a to quickly connect with diverse
practised in the industry. “This personal level. “We want to use these audiences. She aims to elevate
is one of the things that makes us pop‑ups as opportunities to show Zerrin to international recognition,
different. Quite a few brands have how you can be a more thoughtful leveraging the freedom from a fixed
said that no other retailers give them shopper, whether it’s wearing what store to adapt across markets such
so much feedback. I find that quite you have more [often], being more as Malaysia and Hong Kong. She
surprising,” she muses. mindful with purchases, or [styling] also envisions Zerrin as more than
This collaborative ethos in a way that you feel expresses a retail brand, aiming to create a
highlights Zerrin’s dedication to [yourself ],” she posits. Through digital lifestyle guide with editorial
fostering a supportive environment these experiences, Zerrin aims to content promoting thoughtful
for sustainable brands, driven by navigate the challenges of consumer consumption. “This can grow our
the belief that better products desensitisation with a nuanced audience and feed into the pop‑up
and well‑thought‑out designs not approach that aims to “touch experiences,” she suggests. “The
only benefit the brands, but also people again”. dialogue around shopping better
enhance Zerrin’s mission. “I offer Jaffer’s experience leading Zerrin is linked with other aspects of your
this feedback sincerely, aiming for has been shaped by community lifestyle. We’re all craving more
both the brands and us to succeed. needs, driving her towards intention in how we live. We want
We want to reinforce the perception exhaustive work periods for the to address that.” 25
 THE SCENE | ONE TO KNOW

The Weird,
breaking down complex issues in
sustainability. “It’s about finding
that connection point between

Wild and
yourself and an environmental
cause,” she adds. Sustainable fashion
and plant‑based eating, for instance,
are just some entry points into

Whimsical
the discourse.
Her aim, she shares, is simply to
approach this “very scary issue” with
a lot of “curiosity and to see it for
what it is”, and ask, “What can we do
about it?” Woo hopes to empower
Armed with an iPad and an Singapore’s circular economy. people to decide what to do on their
Apple Pencil, Woo Qiyun is The National Geographic Young own. She recognises, though, that
making sustainability more Explorer was featured on the the climate crisis affects everyone in
BBC’s list of 100 most influential different ways, depending on their
accessible, one infographic women in 2023 and is currently identities and access to resources.
at a time By Ethan Kan a sustainability consultant at She remembers, for instance, a
Photography by Darren Gabriel Leow Unravel Carbon, an AI‑powered bout of haze in 2017 that got her
decarbonisation platform. thinking about how the elderly, the
What is blue carbon? What went Woo has always been interested immunocompromised, and those
down at the latest Conference of in the environment, and as a without the means to afford air
the Parties? What are the new child made to read newspapers to purifiers or air conditioning were
plant‑based foods? In many of the improve her English, she gravitated dealing with the heat and pollution.
infographics on Woo Qiyun’s online towards articles about sustainability. “It hit home for me because
platform, The Weird and Wild (The shortest piece in the papers I can’t talk about climate change
(@theweirdandwild) on Instagram, was always in the environment without recognising that there
an amorphous green character section, she quips.) Yet, her passion are going to be people who are
walks one through the intricacies remained unconscious until her worse off, or that there are barriers
of current issues in sustainability, parents pointed out how committed preventing them from engaging
replete with bite‑sized information, she was to sustainability, which with the climate issue,” she says.
actionable suggestions and colourful set her on a path towards an Her goal, then, is to advocate for
illustrations. “Everyone calls it environmental studies degree at the a “better way for these issues to
a frog,” Woo says of the character. National University of Singapore intertwine” to create “a green and
“I guess I’m just accepting it.” (NUS) and a future in advocacy. just future”.
In fact, Woo’s art style is more Woo was in her third year at NUS The mantle of a youth activist
intentional than she lets on. She is when she started The Weird and is not one that rests easily on
inspired by Sonny Liew’s graphic Wild in 2018, after getting “sick” of Woo’s shoulders. “I can’t possibly
novel The Art of Charlie Chan seeing nothing but advertisements represent every single voice in
Hock Chye, whose protagonist and posts with prescriptive the environmental community
explains “extremely complex messaging such as “don’t use plastic in Singapore,” she says. Today,
things and asks questions about bags” and “sort out your waste”. she works around this by sharing
particular issues in a style that There was also a lack of accessible the spotlight with other voices,
HAIR AND MAKE‑UP ANGEL GWEE USING DAVINES AND BOBBI BROWN

is still very conversational”. She information online then. “People particularly Asian and Southeast
explains: “I needed [a character] were saying that all plastic can be Asian ones. “There’s no point
that would talk people through recycled. There’s actually a list of spotlighting one person in
these issues, [one] that everyone items that can’t be recycled, but it’s environmental work,” she states.
could identify with.” A frog it is. so far down the Google search that Woo remains steadfast in her
At 27, Woo is one of the young you’ll never find it, and you’ll always own corner of the conversation.
voices making their marks in see Western‑centric research “You have to look at it, tackle it
the sustainability space. Her coming up [first],” she explains. head‑on and say, ‘We need to be
résumé already reads like that of a “If I, as an environmentalist, stronger about what we’re pushing
passionate environmentalist, with cannot understand these things, for.’ We need to phase out fossil
internships at World Wildlife Fund I can’t expect someone else without fuels, we need more people to
and Jane Goodall Institute, and the knowledge to read the news understand what that means,
a short project at the Economic and know what to do,” Woo says, and help everybody adapt to
26 Development Board on supporting underscoring the importance of that reality.”
 THE SCENE | ASIA’S MOST INFLUENTIAL

Second of “impact” and

“value”, to align
business growth

Nature
and profitability.
An integrated
governance
structure has
also been
For Esther An, the chief established to
sustainability officer drive engagement
of City Developments in sustainability
practices, from
Limited, one of the keys to the board and
building a climate‑resilient management to all
future is through executives and the
engaging, educating and rank and file.
For all its
empowering communities efforts, CDL has been rated top raising awareness, developing
By Hashirin Nurin Hashimi among real estate companies on one’s skills through training,
Global 100, research firm Corporate capacity‑building and thought
When Esther An first joined the Knights’ annual list of the top 100 leadership are equally, if not
building sector in 1995, sustainability most sustainable corporations in the more, important to support [the]
was not yet a mainstream agenda world, since 2020. It has also secured global and national transition to a
and her early adoption led her to leadership in green building design, low‑carbon economy.”
become, as she puts it, “an accidental development and management On its part, CDL, for example,
champion for the planet and since 2005. Last year, it received designed and built the Singapore
sustainable communities”. Now, three Building and Construction Sustainability Academy (SSA)
nearly three decades later, the Authority Green Mark Platinum with industry partners in 2017.
chief sustainability officer of City Super Low Energy (SLE) awards for The project spearheaded by An is
Developments Limited (CDL) is its flagship development Republic the first major people, public and
recognised as a pioneering green Plaza and its residential properties private ground‑up initiative and
building and sustainability advocate. Tembusu Grand and Lumina Grand, zero‑energy facility in Singapore
“As a real estate company, we and a Green Mark GoldPlus SLE dedicated to capacity‑building
not only contribute towards efforts award for The Myst condominium. and thought leadership for climate
in sustainable infrastructure “CDL has been exploring new action towards the United Nations’
and green buildings, but are also frontiers in how we design, construct Sustainable Development Goals.
responsible for building spaces and and manage our properties, with “As sustainability is now mainstream
lifestyles that are sustainable and new solutions and technologies on global, national and business
green,” says An. “With the support to conserve and achieve harmony agendas, the demand for skilled and
of my late mentor Kwek Leng Joo with nature,” shares An. She adds experienced ESG practitioners has
(former CDL deputy chairman), that the company is committed to risen dramatically. Providing spaces
who was a visionary CSR (corporate achieving operational net zero by such as the SSA for training and
social responsibility) leader, I was 2030 for the new and existing wholly development on climate action and
blessed with many opportunities owned assets and developments other ESG issues offers a platform
to dream, create and drive change, under its direct operational and for professionals to interact [with]
greening the company’s culture, management control, with the entire and inspire [one another] by
strategy, products and practices, portfolio achieving operational net sharing their ideas, experiences and
and creating business value through zero by 2050. knowledge. This amplifies action
sustainability integration.” For a more climate‑resilient and positive impact,” says An.
CDL’s corporate ethos of future, “collaboration through The bigger purpose of her
IMAGE CITY DEVELOPMENTS LIMITED

“Conserving as We Construct”, engaging, educating and work today is more than “doing
which was established in 1995, has empowering communities is pivotal”, good, doing well”, An tells us.
been fundamental in turning its An expounds. “Community‑building “The climate emergency is about
vision into action. The company’s is crucial in driving climate action, the survival of humanity. As
environmental, social and [which requires] behavioural Sir David Attenborough says,
governance (ESG) strategy is change [on] both [an] individual we’re not here to save the planet;
28 anchored on a two‑pillar framework and multi‑sectoral level. Besides we’re saving humanity.”
 Worth The
Weight
Long Beach Seafood
continues to serve
quality and quantity in
the tastiest way possible
As early as the 1980s, Long Beach
Seafood made its mark as the
first restaurant in the country
to import premium live seafood.
Since then, it has evolved into a
brand synonymous with top notch
Singaporean fare, and a trusted
fine-casual dining destination for of cooking styles for daily catch the steamed option with hua tiao
locals and tourists alike. And ticking to be prepared with. Their air wine and chicken broth, or the
the box for unwavering quality that flown live Australian lobster, for classic white pepper dish where its
keep diners coming back for more example, comes served in eight sweet, juicy flesh is elevated with a
are dishes like sweet, succulent ways including baked in Portuguese luscious earthy-spicy sauce.
lobster sashimi; razor clams style, braised with ee fu noodles, Quantity is also served up in the
steamed to perfection with garlic in superior stock, or doused in sense of weight. Firstly, because
and vermicelli; wild caught live a mouth-watering butter sauce. the general pricing paradigm for
leopard coral grouper that comes While their air flown live Alaskan live seafood fluctuates often due
fried or steamed with a myriad of king crab comes in four styles, with to a number of variables—like
spicy, umami marinades; and of discerning diners often opting for seasonality, size and weight—the
course, the history-making black restaurant has dispelled the practice
pepper crab. of categorising cheap and expensive
Another hallmark of quality is crabs within the same species,
the restaurant group’s commitment streamlining the costing to pure
to sustainable sourcing and weight. And secondly, in line with
environmental stewardship. Long their dedication to ethical sourcing
Beach Seafood places paramount and waste reduction, they do not
importance on responsible fishing acquire small crabs, purely to cater
practices, guaranteeing that the to their clientele’s demand for
finest, freshest seafood is caught larger, more luxurious servings.
with great respect for the well-being
and balance of marine ecosystems. Clockwise from
right: Australian
This means that there may be lobster sashimi;
certain seafood options that are Australian golden
stripe lobster
occasionally unavailable, but there
will be equally responsibly-caught,
in-season alternatives to cater to
every palate.
Quantity wise, their menus offer
an extensive and diverse selection of
PHOTOGRAPHY LONG BEACH

seafood. And by this we mean there’s

not only a wide variety of familiar,
exotic and ultra premium seafood
to pick from their in-restaurant
tanks, but an elaborate selection 29
 THE SCENE | ASIA’S MOST INFLUENTIAL

CHANGE THE WORLD

Leaders who have made a mark in matters related to the environment, society and
governance, and other fields that have become crucial to the future of humankind

GRACE FU platform for Asian

Asia’s Most Influential 2023, 2021
philanthropists that fosters
Minister for the exchange of ideas
Sustainability and as well as coordination
the Environment, and collaboration. The
Singapore Government grandson of late banker
Minister Grace Fu is and philanthropist
steering Singapore’s Lien Ying Chow is
Ministry of Sustainability also the chairman of
and the Environment’s the Lien Foundation,
path towards a clean and a philanthropic house
sustainable environment founded by his grandfather
with resilient supplies in 1980. Among various
of safe food and water. other initiatives, the Lien
In her role, she oversees Foundation is focused
AW KAH PENG green initiatives such as ANITA FAM on eldercare and early
Asia’s Most Influential 2023, 2021
the country’s $60 million Asia’s Most Influential 2023, 2021
childhood development in
Chairman, Shell Agri‑Food Cluster President, National Singapore. Lien also chairs
Companies in Singapore Transformation Fund, Council of Social Service Lien Aid, the foundation’s
The chairman of Shell which helps local farms Anita Fam guides the humanitarian arm.
Companies in Singapore, improve their systems and National Council of Social
Aw Kah Peng is helping adopt technology. Service, an umbrella
to steer the conglomerate Fu worked in various body for more than 500
in its energy transition senior positions at member social service
path, in keeping with organisations such as PSA agencies in Singapore, in its
its parent company Corporation, Haw Par remit to provide direction
Shell’s aim of eliminating Group and the Overseas and leadership in social
net carbon emissions services, seek out strategic
by 2050. The energy partnerships for social
giant plans to achieve services, and enhance the
this goal by growing its capabilities of social service
renewables and low‑carbon agencies. The former
businesses, including lawyer has been involved
hydrogen and biofuels. in social services for more
Closer to home, Shell and than two decades at both
sustainable‑development national and charitable
agency JTC Corporation levels, primarily in the In September 2023, Lien
are planning to establish areas of healthcare, mental announced the launch of
a solar farm the size of health, palliative care and the new Asia Community
112 football fields on disability. She also sits on Foundation (ACF), a
Semakau Island, south the boards of the Institute philanthropic advisory
of Singapore. If realised, of Mental Health and the poised to help new donors
the facility will produce Lien Foundation, and give more strategically
enough energy to power is part of the SG Cares and with greater impact to
up to 17,500 households. Union Bank before Steering Committee. charities across Asia. “The
Prior to joining Shell in entering politics in 2006. number one primary target
2012 and appointed to An advocate of women’s LAURENCE LIEN [for ACF],” he said, “is new
her current role in 2019, rights, she is the leading Asia’s Most Influential 2023, 2021
givers—those who want to
Aw had a successful contributor to the Young Co-founder and CEO, give more or give better.
career in the Singapore Women’s Leadership Asia Philanthropy Circle We see this as new private
public service, both in the Connection Council Laurence Lien is the banking clients here, all the
Economic Development of Advisors, and was a co‑founder and CEO of thousand‑plus new family
Board and as CEO of the past chairperson of the Asia Philanthropy Circle, offices that are [being] set
30 Singapore Tourism Board. PAP’s Women’s Wing. a non‑profit membership up in Singapore.”
 to release [as dusk falls] to attract
moths for pollination,” he says.
The colour of a typical summer
evening in Scotland is reflected in
the Amber Meadow expression,
the result of the new‑make spirit
spending time in exceptional
sherry‑seasoned oak and bourbon
casks. “The single malt is redolent of
warm meadows and mature barley
fields, with a rich, citrus‑scented
finish,” adds Bremner. On the nose,
there are captivating notes of fresh
citrus fruits and honeysuckle as
well as hints of vanilla. Bremner
invites one to take a sip and revel in
its complex taste profile—a medley
of oak, lemon and melon flavours
that are interwoven with those of a
classic scone and almond with green
tea, with a rich and sweet finish that
lingers on the palate.
Extending beyond the Harmony
Collection’s limited‑edition
expressions, the creative partnership

A Scottish
between The Macallan and the
McCartneys also yielded a lifestyle
collection aptly titled Together:
A Collection for The Macallan

Reunion
by Stella and Mary McCartney,
comprising 11 bespoke pieces
that take cues from nature and
The Macallan’s craftsmanship.
Among the pieces designed by the
The Macallan teams up with Stella and Mary McCartney sisters, and expertly realised by
to craft the Amber Meadow and Green Meadow, two master artisans and craftspeople,
distinct single‑malt expressions, for the third instalment are handmade glassware in
vibrant earthy shades, an ombre
of the Harmony Collection ceramic flask with an apple leather
sleeve, and an acorn‑shaped brass
napkin weight that pays homage
Throughout its storied 200‑year and inspired by their childhood to the oak casks used in making
history, The Macallan has shown in Scotland. The Macallan whiskies.
an affinity for sustainability The Macallan’s whisky maker “The collection is unlike
and a deep love for nature. It Steven Bremner, who worked anything The Macallan has ever
is for these reasons that the with the sisters to bring their introduced, showcasing how we
Scottish distillery launched the nostalgic memories into tangible continue to innovate and challenge
Harmony Collection, a series of sips, shares that the taste profile of ourselves,” says Jaume Ferras,
limited‑edition whiskies released Amber Meadow recalls the duo’s The Macallan’s global creative
annually that are encased in summer days in the amber fields director. “Yet, the respect for
packaging made of discarded surrounding the McCartneys’ family nature reflected by Stella and
materials, in 2021. Released last farm in the countryside, as well as Mary’s beautiful designs is at the
year, the third edition consists their time at The Macallan Estate, heart of our brand and has been
of Amber Meadow and Green where they learnt about its storied for 200 years.”
Meadow (a travel retail exclusive), heritage. “There’s coconut from
IMAGE THE MACALLAN

two distinct expressions created the flowering gorse bushes, malty The Macallan Harmony Collection
in collaboration with renowned barley notes, and even citrus from Amber Meadow is available at
fashion designer Stella McCartney a multitude of meadow flowers and The Macallan House Singapore
and her photographer sister Mary, honeysuckle, whose aroma is timed at Raffles Hotel. 31
 THE SCENE | GEN.T

Renita Sophia Crasta

A lawyer by day and a social advocate by night, Renita Sophia Crasta
is determined to find solutions to issues facing women, seniors,
low‑income families and migrant workers By Aaron De Silva

Renita Sophia Crasta is a woman Crasta, who cut her teeth at I’m grateful for the awards
of many hats. By day, she is the law firm Allen & Gledhill before I’ve received. But half the time,
head of legal for TGR Real Estate. transitioning to the corporate world, I wish they were not given in such a
Once she clocks out, she oscillates says her parents set her on the path visible way. I don’t want to be known
among her leadership roles in of volunteerism and advocacy. By for the awards. I just want to do the
non‑governmental organisations, contributing her time and expertise work. I want to get better outcomes.
women’s and self‑help groups, and to help the marginalised, she finds For women, it can work against us.
platforms that support the elderly meaning and purpose in advocating People may start to doubt your
and migrant workers. for issues such as migrant workers’ loyalties. Of course, if people trust
Her roll call of responsibilities is rights, and building a community of and appreciate me from knowing
impressive, to say the least. She is like‑minded individuals. She shares who I am, that’s a benefit.
the co‑president of the Singapore more about her journey in and
Corporate Counsel Association outside law in her own words. For those who want to make a
(SCCA), a network of in‑house difference in their communities,
lawyers in corporations, statutory My parents were the ones who start by getting involved. Keep
boards and charities; a committee set the example. When I was things sustainable and don’t be
member of the Young Women’s young, I saw them serve in church, daunted by them. It’s important
Leadership Connection; and a so the spirit of helping others to also deconflict and understand
co‑founder of the Covid‑19 Migrant through tangible action has always where the gaps are before you
Support Coalition, which was set up been something I’ve observed. embark on something. And
to support migrant workers during When I see an issue, I immediately surround yourself with a good
the lockdowns. Then there are think, “Oh, what can I do?” If I think community and team as well as
her contributions to the Eurasian of a solution, I feel like I should do peer support.
Association (she is of Portuguese something about it, rather than just
and Indian heritage) as a member talk about it. Politics will definitely give a
of the Family Support Services bigger platform to anyone and
Committee and the Legal Advisory A defining moment for me was any cause. But I like to believe that
Panel, as well as her pro bono work when my dad passed away in we can do significant work from
for the SCCA and legal clinics in 2013. He was healthy all along until wherever we are, and sometimes,
the heartlands. The latter benefits he was suddenly diagnosed with just in different ways. Similar to
low‑income families. stage four duodenal cancer. He my in‑house legal role, we may
“I don’t go to the legal clinics passed away within eight months be behind the scenes, but we can
IMAGE DARREN GABRIEL LEOW

every week, but when I do go and of the diagnosis. In the last two achieve incredible impact.
listen to the stories, I realise I can months, I took time off work to
help someone. It makes such a spend with him and my family.
difference,” Crasta says. “It changes It made me reflect on what life is
the rest of your week and you get to really about, what’s meaningful Gen.T is Tatler’s platform for young
leaders shaping Asia’s future.
32 hear very real issues on the ground.” and important to me. tatlerasia.com/gen-t
33
 Art of I
n Lucian Freud’s Double Portrait by Lucian Freud, most of them
(1988-90), the Freud family dog etchings, and the centrepiece of the
Pluto is depicted together with show is an incredible oil painting,

Our
his daughter, Bella. Painted in Double Portrait (1988-90).” IMAGES © THE LUCIAN FREUD ARCHIVE. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED 2024/BRIDGEMAN IMAGES
(DOUBLE PORTRAIT, EXHIBITION); MAX YAWNEY (EXHIBITION); FLAVIO KARRER (ROZELL);
the British artist’s expressionist One of the major figurative
style, the masterpiece is one of the painters of the 20th century, Freud’s
EKO NUGROHO AND ARARIO GALLERY (GUARDING SUNRISE IN MIND, LOVE #2)

more than 50 works, comprising art was characterised by a realistic

Time
Freud’s landscapes, portraits and and often crude approach to the
nudes, featured in an ongoing human body, meticulously capturing
exhibition, Lucian Freud: Works every wrinkle of skin, every crease of
from the UBS Art Collection, at material, every play of light. While
the UBS Art Gallery located in he was best known as a painter, his
the global financial institution’s etchings were an integral part of
Mary Rozell, the global New York headquarters. his work. Many of his late etchings,
head of the UBS Art “This is an example of one of created over a period of nearly two
Collection, discusses the the notable pockets of depth in decades from 1982 to 2000, are
the [UBS Art] Collection,” says featured in the exhibition—and
Swiss bank’s approach Mary Rozell, the global head of through the boldness of the art,
to collecting art and the UBS Art Collection, “which one would notice the multilayered
supporting artists demonstrates our ongoing dimensions of his subjects.
By Hashirin Nurin Hashimi commitment to supporting an This is the first time that the
34 artist’s work. We have 54 works collection of works is being shown in
 THE SCENE | ART

the US, after two previous iterations than 10,000 works will be added
of the exhibition were held in 2015 at from the latter’s art collection.
the Louisiana Museum of Modern “Besides the stewardship of
Art in Humlebaek, Denmark, and the collection, from the framing
in 2017 at the Martin-Gropius-Bau to the installation of the art in our
in Berlin, Germany. “We are offices around the world, there’s
pleased to share with the public this also something that we refer to
exceptional body of work, which as activations—what are we doing
defies perceived norms of corporate with the works beyond hanging
collecting,” says Rozell. “Like most them on the wall? A big focus
of Freud’s oeuvre, the artworks on [for us] has been about sharing the
display are uncompromising and collection more widely with the
challenging to view, and we hope broader public,” says Rozell. “We do
they will spark both conversation this through the exhibitions and
and introspection.” commissions at the public art space
Sharing such works of art at our headquarters in New York,
with the public is a cornerstone which opened in 2019. We also
of the UBS Art Collection. regularly extend loans to museums
Considered one of the world’s most and cultural institutions, as well as
significant corporate collections produce art publications.”
of contemporary art, it features UBS has been collecting
over 30,000 artworks, including contemporary art since the 1960s,
paintings, works on paper, integrating various individual art
photographs, sculptures, videos collections, notably from the merger
and installations, by some of the of Union Bank of Switzerland and
most influential artists of our Swiss Bank Corporation, as well as
time. And with UBS’s acquisition the acquisition of US investment
of Credit Suisse last year, more bank PaineWebber. “The collection

From top: UBS Art

Collection global
head Mary Rozell;
an installation view
of Lucian Freud:
Works from the
UBS Art Collection.
Opposite page:
Double Portrait
(1988-90) by
Lucian Freud

35
is now a global collection because works, something Rozell hopes The works reflect the UBS
it’s a global business. We are the to explore more of “because it’s a Art Collection’s commitment
world’s largest wealth manager, very different experience to work to supporting artists who are
and many of our clients collect art,” with an artist on a specific project, exploring the most pressing issues
Rozell expounds. “A big part of and not just buying artworks from today, from exploring the power
my job is interacting with these a gallery and putting them on of community to environmental
clients; I don’t advise them because the wall. It’s also about engaging protection. Such similar themes
that’s a different department, but with these artists and cultivating resonate with many of the artists in
we talk about art and cultivate a long-term relationships”. the collection, including French-
real connection. I think our clients At Art SG earlier this year, Swiss artist Julian Charrière,
appreciate having their wealth where UBS was founding whose work bridges the realms of
manager share the same passion and lead partner, the UBS environmental science and cultural
space and understand where they Art Collection presented a history, and American sculptor and
are putting their money.” commissioned installation installation artist Liz Larner, whose
An art lawyer with a master’s Guarding Sunrise in Mind (2023) creations are informed by theories
in modern art from the Courtauld by Indonesian artist Eko Nugroho, of environmental sustainability.
Institute of Art, Rozell was formerly in collaboration with the local UBS has a long history in
the director of art business at communities in Yogyakarta in supporting contemporary art
Sotheby’s Institute of Art. She is Indonesia, as part of the display at and artists. Besides Art SG, it has
the author of The Art Collector’s the UBS Lounge. The embroidered partnerships with art fairs such
Handbook: The Definitive Guide to painting looks at welcoming as Art Basel, Taipei Dangdai and
Acquiring and Owning Art. the future with a new spirit of West Bund Art & Design. It also
UBS continues to acquire works optimism. Also on display was maintains strong ties with the region
by emerging and established another of Nugroho’s embroidered through recent commissions by
artists with an international reach, paintings, Love #2 (2019), from Singaporean artists Hilmi Johandi
alongside the company’s growth in the UBS Art Collection, which and Dawn Ng, whose works take
key markets such as Latin America depicts two figures holding hands pride of place in the UBS office in
and Asia. The Swiss firm also under the moonlight, radiating love Singapore alongside artworks by
has a history of commissioning and optimism. internationally renowned artists,
 Love #2 (2019 by
Indonesian artist
Eko Nugroho
from the UBS
Art Collection.
Opposite page:
Nugroho’s
Guarding Sunrise
in Mind (2023) in
the UBS Lounge
at Art SG 2024

including Christine Ay Tjoe, in Zurich, London, New York and “The challenging part about
Lee Bul and Rirkrit Tiravanija. Hong Kong. “Every team member acquiring art is being able to put
When it comes to acquiring is always looking at the art in their the brakes on when the market
art for the UBS Art Collection, region, and elsewhere, on a daily gets heated. There are many times
Rozell says, “we only buy on the basis. There’s also an exchange where we have an artist we love, but
primary market, which means of ideas. We don’t buy art just for if we don’t catch them at the right
working directly with the artists the sake of buying. We need to moment, all of a sudden their prices
and galleries. That’s our purpose, have a specific project, a purpose.” go up. We’re not buying emerging
in the way we are supporting the Furthermore, “we’re not artists right out of art school, we’re
community. I know that in a lot of buying art at a blue-chip level, so watching them until they reach a
cases, it has made a difference.” you have to find that sweet spot critical basis with a few shows under
Based in New York, Rozell is where you’re not paying too much their belt. But it’s fun to identify an
supported by a global team located [for an artwork]”, shares Rozell. artist before their market peaks.” 37
 THE SCENE | IN THE STUDIO

Creative
Pluralism
Bessie Ye, founder of Singapore
womenswear label Rye, on
how its unique DNA is shaped
by her travels, community
ties and a commitment to
considered designs By Nafeesa Saini

Our interview with Bessie Ye design passions, acting as a hub for fashion designers” such as Junya
takes place on the sidewalk creative collaboration. Watanabe and Rei Kawakubo. “The
outside the Joo Chiat outpost of Ye traces her love of fashion world of Japanese design shaped my
her womenswear label Rye, in a back to her teenage years, during entire perspective and [motivated
setting as eclectic as the brand which she held part‑time retail jobs; me] to major in fashion design.”
itself. Perched on 1970s folding this set the stage for her studies in Her internship with Australia‑based
chairs, with the brand’s rattan fans apparel design and merchandising Japanese designer Akira Isogawa,
in hand, we chat while watching the at Temasek Polytechnic. Over she adds, was a life‑changing
neighbourhood go by. time, her focus shifted towards the experience that “shaped who I am
Greetings from loyal customers, creative aspects of fashion. “I fell as a designer as well as my design
neighbours and friends frequently in love with the design process, philosophy and sensibilities”.
interrupt our conversation, a although I wasn’t good at craft like It was her stint as a junior
nod to Ye’s strong community my peers were,” she says. designer in the fast‑fashion
ties. This sense of connection is One of her most pivotal industry that served as the catalyst
mirrored within the store itself, influences, she shares, was the for founding Rye. Dissatisfaction
38 which serves as a showcase for her runway shows of “avant‑garde with the sector’s transient nature
 steered her towards embracing slow
fashion’s principles. “Fast fashion
is a different ball game that’s about
cost, trends and speed. Deep down,
my values have always been about
a timeless style or making clothes
that last,” shares Ye, who adds that
she sought for more “thought and
intention” when it came to creating
Rye’s designs.
The name Rye, a playful nod
to her surname, captures her
conviction that fashion can connect
with the basic yet profound aspects
of human experience, much like
the staple grain. “Rye [struck me]
as a good name for the basics, the
essentials and the everyday—much
like the way rye is used to make
bread,” she says.
Ye, who launched Rye in 2016, Top and
bottom: Looks
further shares that she was “so from Rye’s
young [then]; only 26. There Resort 2024
collection.
were a lot of business decisions or Opposite page:
operations I wasn’t familiar with. Rye’s founder,
Bessie Ye
I had to learn as I go, especially
with marketing”. Rye’s big break
came with a pop‑up at department went brick‑and‑mortar on our craftsmen, among whom is a
store Tangs shortly after its own”, she says. seasoned Teochew woodturner—a
launch, but “it took us about six In 2022, Rye opened its first store rarity in Singapore. The custom rug
years (of operating digitally, in Cluny Court; this was followed in the changing room is likewise
and being stocked at Tangs and by a second on Joo Chiat Road late designed by Ye and realised by the
multi‑label collectives) before we last year. Having her own physical Singapore‑based Tanchen Studio,
spaces allowed Ye to fully delve which specialises in textiles.
into her passion for interior design. These influences, along with
“[With the stores], I was able to the locale’s heritage, also permeate
create an ambience where I can Rye’s Resort 2024 collection, which
house my own collection. Every features an eyelet shirt adorned with
store offers different expressions lace squares resembling Peranakan
for me,” she says. tiles—and presented as the ideal
Designed primarily in‑house, choice for vacations such as Ye’s
the Joo Chiat outpost captures the time in Sri Lanka.
essence of Ye’s varied inspirations. With a third shop set to open
Her visits to Sri Lanka, for example, this June at The Lo & Behold
manifest in the store’s design Group’s new lifestyle enclave
elements, such as the wooden at 46 Kim Yam Road, Ye is now
columns supporting the clothing eager to merge worlds. At the
racks, which mirror those in the time of writing, she is planning
residences of the Lunuganga Estate, an upcoming community event
the country home of renowned of a live drawing session held
architect Geoffrey Bawa. The in‑store. This initiative is part of
striped upholstery on the chairs and a broader effort to bolster Rye’s
ottoman, meanwhile, was inspired commitment to cultivating a
by that in Bawa’s Colombo home. creative community. “We want
Ye’s love of artisanal collaboration to bring people together for
shines through in her latest store as something we enjoy, while mingling
well. The aforementioned columns, and exchanging ideas,” she says.
IMAGES RYE

for instance, were designed by “We want to cross‑pollinate

Ye and crafted by a trio of local different creatives.” 39
 THE SCENE | CAUSES

The Courage
often a ‘he says, she says’
situation,” continues Chok. “As
domestic workers are generally

of Conviction
treated with suspicion, there
have been situations where if an
employer believes their cash is
missing and finds any cash on
their domestic worker, [they’ll]
file a police report even if they
As the executive director of the Humanitarian lack concrete evidence that the
Organization for Migration Economics, money was stolen.”
Stephanie Chok challenges systemic injustices, During police interviews,
other problems surface, such
making strides towards a fairer future for migrant as issues with interpreters.
workers in Singapore By Nafeesa Saini. Photography by Munster “Sometimes, interpreters
offer what they believe to be
The high‑profile case of Indonesian and programme development at well‑intentioned advice,” Chok
domestic helper Parti Liyani casts Beyond Social Services, made her allows, “but they can also exert
a long shadow over Singapore’s move to Home a natural step. pressure on migrant workers to
glossy facade, as it brought to light Home employs a three‑fold plead guilty and give bad advice,
the vulnerabilities faced by migrant strategy of welfare, empowerment leading to further complications
workers in the city‑state. Accused and advocacy to support migrant during the investigation. [This]
of stealing 144 items valued at over workers. It provides shelter for is a problem not only in situations
$50,000 from her employers—the those in employment disputes, of theft, but also in sexual or
family of former Changi Airport runs helplines, and has satellite physical abuse cases.”
Group chairman Liew Mun Leong— help desks in key locales where Furthermore, ongoing police
Parti faced a four‑year legal battle migrant workers congregate on investigations significantly
that ended in a landmark acquittal Sundays, such as Lucky Plaza and impact the migrant workers’
in September 2020. Beyond its legal City Plaza. These are manned by lives, hindering their ability
ramifications, her case challenges migrant domestic workers who to work. “Parti wasn’t able to
the integrity of the justice system cater to their compatriots of fellow work for four years. It’s rare
meant to protect migrant workers. nationalities and refer cases to Home to encounter someone like
Central to Parti’s battle for when necessary. “We also provide her in the first place, as most
justice was the support from the training on their rights, so they would give up and plead guilty,
Humanitarian Organization for can better advise and support their whether or not they committed

HAIR AND MAKE‑UP ANGEL GWEE USING GUCCI BEAUTY PHOTOGRAPHY ASSISTANTS JOVAN TEO, KEVIN KHNG
Migration Economics (Home), a peers,” Chok shares. the crime. She’s an incredibly
migrant worker non‑governmental Home also offers subsidised independent‑minded woman and
organisation (NGO). Throughout courses for personal and professional was so aggrieved at [her former
the investigation, trial and appeal growth under its academy arm, employers’ accusations] that she
process, Home stood by Parti, conducts research, and participates stuck to her guns,” recalls Chok.
providing shelter and securing in public dialogues. This advocacy Chok criticises the
pro bono legal representation. work, particularly following Parti’s discrimination against this group
Then the case manager and, later, case, spotlights the challenges faced even in the wake of sympathetic
a volunteer for the organisation, by migrant workers in Singapore. cases like Parti’s—“We can see
executive director Stephanie Chok “Last year, Home released a report this in employer behaviours
was instrumental in supporting on criminal accusations made against such as not wanting to give days
Parti throughout her ordeal. domestic workers, a study prompted off, keeping their phones from
Chok assumed her latest role by Parti’s case. The research them, or threatening to call the
at Home in September 2023, after showed that up to 80 per cent of police,” she expounds—and points
15 years of volunteering with the theft accusations against domestic out the binary representation
organisation, sparked by her PhD workers do not result in criminal of domestic workers, where
research on the precariousness charges,” says Chok. The study also they are either overly idealised
of low‑paid migrant workers. Her highlighted how employers are able for their loyalty or negatively
extensive background in social to use the threat of calling the police stereotyped based on sensational
work and migrant advocacy, to intimidate domestic workers and stories. “In Singapore, there’s
including an early involvement retaliate against them. limited space within public
with Migrant Voices and a stint as With theft accusations that discourse for domestic workers
40 the assistant director of research happen in a household, “it’s
to develop any kind of complex
human identity,” she says.
Addressing the broader issue of
viewing domestic workers through
a lens of strict control and social
wariness, particularly through
legislative discrimination that
curtails their reproductive rights,
Chok states: “It’s an offence for work
permit holders to fall pregnant and
give birth in Singapore. They’re also
not allowed to marry Singaporeans
or permanent residents without the
authorities’ consent. They continue
to be treated as a population that’s
potentially socially dangerous and
needs to be strictly controlled.”
On Home turning 20 this year,
Chok says it is a milestone “to have
lasted this long as an independent
NGO in Singapore”. Last year, it
started its #RestDayAllDay
campaign, which advocates for
24‑hour rest days for domestic
helpers. “It has taken years of
campaigning and now, there’s one
mandatory rest day a month that
can’t be financially compensated,”
she says. This, however, is
inadequate. Chok argues for weekly
mandatory rest days, with rest‑day
hours better defined in law.
Home is also pushing for easier
transfer rights for work pass
holders, who currently need their
employers’ consent to change jobs,
which traps them in exploitative
working conditions. “When migrant
workers owe money, are dependent
on their agent and employer, and
can be sent home any time, they
are often hesitant to file complaints
and fear job loss … In Singapore,
we’re so dependent on a large pool
of low‑wage workers that we have
normalised exploitative working
conditions. And there seems to be
very little political and economic
incentive to change this situation.”
Despite significant challenges,
the collective efforts of volunteers
and advocates such as Chok inspire
optimism. “It’s the solidarity felt
when working with like‑minded
persons,” she says. “I feel embedded
within a social justice‑oriented
community. That can be
very motivating.” 41
 Harpreet Bindra,
CEO of HSBC Life
Singapore

Legacy
health, wealth and protection
propositions to support the holistic
wellbeing of their customers.
The company is now entering the

Protection
next stage of evolution, marked by
the appointment of Harpreet Bindra
as CEO of HSBC Life Singapore in
September 2023. Bindra, who has
more than two decades of leadership
With both the expertise and perspective necessary to experience in the insurance and
meet its clients’ wealth management needs, HSBC Life financial services industry, was most
Singapore’s CEO Harpreet Bindra believes that the recently based in Hong Kong as the
global head of strategy and business
business is better positioned than ever for success development for HSBC Global
Insurance and Partnerships, and
The past few years have seen segment, and to realise its ambitions his move solidifies the entity’s
Singapore witness a record inflow of becoming Asia’s leading wealth commitment to providing premium,
of wealth, with the Monetary manager, banking and financial diverse coverage to high‑net‑worth
Authority of Singapore reporting services group HSBC has been individuals (HNWIs) while tapping
an increase of about 50 per cent in actively expanding its insurance HSBC’s global bank of services.
assets under management from 2017 capabilities to round out its portfolio “HSBC Life’s competitive edge is
to 2022. As the country strengthens of holistic financial services— being part of HSBC Group. Our
its position as a leading financial including acquiring AXA Singapore role in a banking and financial
centre in Asia with immense growth in 2021 for US$ 529 million, institution means that we’re thinking
potential, the rise of options for which it has since integrated into beyond our clients’ insurance
wealth protection, accumulation HSBC Life. HSBC Life is the bank’s needs to manage their wealth more
IMAGE HSBC LIFE

and management has intensified. insurance arm, with a mandate to holistically,” he shares. “Beyond that,
Catering to the burgeoning help customers grow and protect we can leverage the Group’s expertise
42 needs of this high‑net‑growth their wealth through integrated and services to service our clients’
needs across the wealth spectrum advisers, banking relationship to clients shifting from premium
and throughout their life stages.” managers as well as representatives financed single premium policies
Bindra elaborates on this and more of financial advisory firms we to products with regular‑ or
in the following interview. partner with. limited‑pay premium options for
In addition, by leveraging our greater flexibility.
What are your thoughts and advantage of being an integral part
plans, now that you’ve settled in of HSBC Group, we are uniquely How, then, is HSBC Life meeting
as CEO of HSBC Life Singapore? positioned to offer integrated these evolving needs of HNWIs?
I was heavily involved in HSBC’s insurance and banking propositions HSBC Life Singapore is one of
acquisition of AXA Singapore to our customers, delivered in a the leading HNW life insurers in
and the development of post‑ seamless and cohesive manner. Singapore. We offer a complete
merger integration plan
and business strategy.
Taking over as its CEO
feels like the natural “Younger HNWIs are often looking
next step and my focus
is now on steering the for more ‘interesting’ options such
as indexed universal life products,
company through the
next phase of growth and
transformation.
Singapore is an ageing
society. Almost one in four which offer investment returns based
Singaporeans will be over
the age of 65 by 2030. It’s
therefore important for us
on the index they’re tagged to”
to partner our customers in starting We’re also able to tap into HSBC’s range of insurance solutions
their retirement planning journey global expertise to meet the bespoke to cover HNW clients’ needs
early, so they can enjoy retirement and sometimes complex needs of across protection, savings, wealth
in a fulfilling way. This includes not our high‑net‑worth (HNW) clients. creation and preservation, legacy
only partnering with them in wealth planning, and health. Beyond
accumulation ahead of retirement, Have you observed any trends that, our solutions are also highly
but also helping them put together within the HNW segment over the customisable—particularly those
a comprehensive post‑retirement past decade, in terms of wealth for HNW clients. From traditional
financial plan that provides a stable management? How have the whole life products to universal life
income, adequate medical coverage needs of HNWIs evolved? and variable universal life plans,
and long‑term care. Legacy planning and wealth as well as international health
Wellbeing is a growing area of accumulation remain key plans, we offer different options
importance for Singaporeans, and priorities for HNWIs, but the based on each client’s needs, risk
life insurers can play a pivotal role younger generation of HNWIs are appetite, and financing preference.
in proactively promoting wellness. embarking on this journey even Driven by our belief that physical,
A holistic wellness proposition earlier, setting a more resilient mental, and financial wellbeing
beyond insurance can help cover a foundation for intergenerational are interconnected, we also look
wide range of customer health and wealth planning and transfer. for opportunities to support
well‑being needs, as well as reduce They’re also more savvy and are customers in maintaining a lifestyle
morbidity risks through fostering a often looking for more “interesting” that can boost their physical and
healthier lifestyle. options such as indexed universal mental wellbeing.
Mortality and critical illness life products, which offer customers It’s important to note that HNW
protection gaps, too, remain the upside opportunity of equity clients have unique needs that
significant in Singapore. With markets through an Index require a high level of expertise
our comprehensive suite of Account whose performance to manage. We have a highly
solutions, we’re well poised to tracks internationally recognized experienced and dedicated HNW
meet our customers’ protection indices, with the protection from servicing team within our business
needs in these areas. Key to this is market downturns with a floor, to offer best‑in‑class support to our
high‑quality needs‑based financial protecting the policy from negative clients and distribution partners,
planning advice, which we will investment returns. including pre‑case screening,
continue to deliver through our A more recent development is submission, underwriting,
multiple distribution channels the rise in financing costs given pricing, premium financing and
including HSBC Life financial higher interest rates, which has led policy servicing. 43
 THE SCENE | FEATURE

Checkpoint
Theatre’s joint
artistic directors
Claire Wong
(pictured left) and
Huzir Sulaiman
44
 For All Seasons
Checkpoint Theatre co-founders Huzir Sulaiman and Claire Wong
share notes on telling original stories, theatre-making in Singapore,
and the new works the company is releasing this year By Yaiza Canopoli

To open a new theatre season with The seasons, as a result, develop Now active in the electronic music
a musical is an ambitious feat. and grow organically into their scene, the application of Weish’s
But then again, Huzir Sulaiman and own, with no themes or other “edgy, layered style” to a musical has
Claire Wong have been dreaming limitations in the way of the artists’ made for a creative and intriguing
big since the very beginning of creativity. “It comes from a place process. “[You’d] think, ‘How do
Checkpoint Theatre, the company of actively listening,” Huzir shares. we marry this to storytelling in
they co-founded more than two “Every work is so intimate and goes theatre?’. And what’s amazing is
decades ago. back a long way because we start that Weish composes the music,
The joint artistic directors have the journey when it was just an she writes the lyrics, she’s written
been overseeing the development idea. So it means a lot to us when the script, and it’s very personal,
of each year’s line-up of plays, [a story] is ready to be brought to alive, and muscular, but it also
productions and print publications. the next stage of production. By has a beautiful literary quality to it,”
This year is no different. that point, we’ve lived with the Huzir enthuses.
Checkpoint Theatre’s 2024 work for a minimum of one and a While the musical is somewhat
season brings a line-up of three half years. In the case of Secondary: different and refreshing, it stays
promising productions: Secondary: The Musical, it’s been three years of true to Checkpoint Theatre’s
The Musical, a grand musical development. Today I was looking at character throughout. Huzir tells
about overworked teachers and draft nine!” Written and composed us of the intimacy, the nuance
their students; Playing With Fire, by Weish and directed by Huzir, the and the emotional depth, which
a thoughtful, intimate play about production takes place from April 19 meet the “galvanising music” and
the intricacies of the oil and to 28, at the Victoria Theatre. the contemporary movement in
gas industry; and Hard Mode, a Three years of development the musical. It also stands to be
delightful exploration of teenage may seem like a lengthy period, but relatable, with its narrative of
culture in Singapore. anything less would have robbed teachers, students and the national
As joint artistic director, Huzir the musical of its full potential. education system. “[Weish] was
guides the development of each “There are some elements [in a a teacher for five years, so the
piece of work that comes his way, musical] that are slightly different emotional authenticity of being
be it a play, a print publication, from those [in a play],” Huzir muses. a teacher, of being in a school
a podcast, or “any other kind of However, the approach to this environment, is something that she
IMAGES JOEL LIM AT CALIBRE STUDIOS (PORTRAIT); DARYL ENG JUN (SECONDARY: THE MUSICAL)

original Singapore story”. The particular piece was not entirely knows intimately,” Huzir explains.
company is nurturing multiple different from that of other “The care that teachers bring to
projects at any given time, each productions the team has brought to their students, and the battles
one at its own unique stage of the stage. “You are adding dancing that they fight in negotiating
development. “We probably have and you are adding music, but if bureaucracy and paperwork, to
eight, 10, or even 12 projects being you look at Checkpoint Theatre’s try to uplift and champion their
developed at different stages. Our work, there’s always some form students—it’s something that Weish
process takes [each one] right of movement and choreography, cares about very deeply. And it’s that
from an initial conversation with and there’s often, whether it’s very spirit that we want to honour.”
the artist, an idea, through all the subtle or very interventionist, sound This August, Checkpoint Theatre
drafts. Sometimes we’ve gone up design or music.” will stage Playing With Fire,
to about 25 or 30 drafts before the It is not the first time which is written by associate artist
production sees the light of day, that Weish has worked with Cheyenne Alexandria Phillips, an
and that’s really important. It’s Checkpoint Theatre either. An environmental studies graduate.
something we’re very, very proud associate artist with the company, Directed by Wong, the play
of,” he tells us. “This makes our the playwright-composer was explores Singapore’s intricate
programming very personal. We’re one of Huzir’s assistant directors involvement with the oil and gas
all about telling a story that only this for the company’s first musical, industry, delving into the lives
writer can write and wants to tell at City Night Songs, back when she of the workers, their families,
this point in their career.” was still an undergraduate in 2012. and those implicated. “The main 45
 with friendship, love, self-identity,
and self-worth, come into play,” she
expands. “It’s again a very nuanced
and very beautiful piece of work.
We find ourselves laughing at
one moment, then the very next
moment you’re like, ‘Oh!’. Suddenly
something very poignant is voiced
by the characters.”
What is striking about the
production is its simultaneous
specificity and universality. This is
a balance that characterises much
of Checkpoint Theatre’s work, and a
protagonist is a writer who wants to they grow up in Singapore, through source of pride for the team. Having
write about the oil and gas industry. national service, university, and taught playwriting for many years,
She goes about interviewing people finally entering into the working Huzir considers it an essential
who have worked in the industry world as young adults. “It’s a piece characteristic of good theatre.
from different generations, from that really captures the secret life “One of the things I’ve always
a retired manager to a young of teenagers,” Wong tells us. “It was said from day one is that you are
engineer who’s just starting out preceded by a lot of research. only universal if you are specific,”
in the industry,” Phillips shares. There were a lot of interviews to he reiterates. “I think it’s vitally
“It’s a mosaic of these people and understand what young people important as part of our postcolonial
their stories and what it all means. are thinking about and what project to embrace the texture and
What does technology, and what their concerns are.” the granular reality of Singapore
does the oil and gas industry mean “[The playwright] Faith Ng really life. Once we do that, we connect
to Singapore? To our own complex managed to capture the language, with the fundamental humanity of
relationships with technology and the way they communicate. It’s got the characters, and then anyone
the environment? It’s a very genuine that lightness and vibrancy of the can understand it.”
exploration of our individual young characters. But it does, like Surprisingly, connecting
roles vis-a-vis technology and every Faith Ng world, dive deep. with a local audience has not
environmental challenges.” The kinds of issues, challenges, and always been a given, but the
Staging this production goes questions that young people are pandemic sparked a new-found
much further than just putting on asking and grappling with, to do enthusiasm for homegrown
a great show. The communication
of climate science to the masses
can prove difficult, and represents
a challenge close to Phillips’s heart.
“It’s very tricky if you go into the
technical jargon. But theatre is
such a fantastic way to offer this
narrative, in a way that everybody
will understand and [be compelled
to] feel something towards these
issues,” she shares.
Huzir concurs: “It’s not about
abstract science or policy. It’s about
people who are earning a living
within an industry and a system that
we are now beginning to understand
has more serious implications for
the planet. But it’s inextricably
entwined with Singapore’s history.”
Wrapping up the season in
October is Hard Mode, which
offers a more lighthearted yet still
poignant finale. The play follows a
46 motley crew of teenage friends as
 there and impacting people is very
important. It hasn’t always been
like that. I’ve been in theatre for
decades and it’s taken a lot of hard
work and perseverance.”
When the multi-hyphenates at
Checkpoint Theatre are not reading
scripts or organising rehearsals,
they are pouring their hearts into
initiatives to make their productions
more accessible. The recently
launched No Questions Asked
initiative allows persons who would
not otherwise be able to afford a
theatre ticket to attend its shows.
Another initiative, which will
be rolled out with the opening of
Secondary: The Musical in April,
offers a series of adaptations to
ensure accessibility across the
board. Developed alongside
a disability consultant, these
inclusive measures will be launched
throughout the year, the first one
being the full captioning of the
upcoming musical. “It’s important
to go about it in a meaningful way.
It’s not about rushing into it and
saying, ‘Here, we’ve got it’,” says
Wong. “It’s important to build ties
This page
and opposite:
with the community, to tell them
The many facets that we welcome them into the
of Secondary:
The Musical,
space, [and to] come and watch
Checkpoint our rehearsals. We’re planning it in
Theatre’s 2024
season opener
small but meaningful steps towards
a larger goal, to make it a very
holistic and integral part of every
productions and publications, collections of plays, in an effort to aspect of theatre-making.”
drawing more Singaporeans to not only make these local works As Wong reminds us,
Checkpoint Theatre’s work in more widely accessible but also “Theatre is about people.”
the past couple of years. “For a ensure that they will be known Fostering community has been
company like ours that has spent to future generations, whether at the forefront of Checkpoint
22 years looking at the realities or not they are staged. Following Theatre’s work since day one.
in Singapore, to have audiences the journey of these books is a “Investing in people, investing in
realise that they want to fully special source of pride for the team. processes, building community,
inhabit, in all senses of the word, “Sometimes, if I’m having a bad day, and creating a space that inspires,
the Singapore experience—it’s I’ll go to the NLB (National Library that challenges, that pushes
a joy,” muses Huzir. “That’s our Board) online catalogue and search people to do their best work.”
company’s mission: to capture and for one of our titles, and then I’ll It is this very community spirit
create a canon of rich Singapore see that our books are checked that drives the team to craft
content. Timely, relevant, urgent, out from Bishan Public Library, groundbreaking productions
and important to be told now, and from Jurong Regional Library … with passion and creativity.
which embraces and empowers And I realise that there are kids out And it is also Huzir’s enthusiasm
the different communities that there who are now growing up with for his artists and their incredible
make up Singapore.” Singapore theatre that is vibrant work that elicits this statement
Part of this mission involves and alive,” Huzir shares warmly. encapsulating the year ahead:
publishing anthologies and “Seeing that the work is getting out “I f ***ing love this season!” 47
 THE SCENE | FEATURE

Creative
Renaissance
Tapping on their experience of building
local menswear brand Biro, brothers Kage
and Keng How Chong herald a return
to their roots, pouring their creative
energies into their new
streetwear label AAI and
their creative production
house MO.Studio
By Nafeesa Saini

48
 B
iro, named after the
ballpoint pen, defies the
odds in a market where
upmarket local menswear
brands are few and far between.
Defined by quality, timeless
wardrobe essentials and Japanese
craftsmanship, it has earned
an ardent fan base of regulars.
The creative forces driving the
label are brothers Keng How
and Kage Chong. The former,
the elder of the two, speaks to
Tatler Singapore for this story.
In 2007, the brothers launched
e‑commerce store Massiveoutfit,
initially selling brands imported
from the US. Sometime in 2010, they
began thinking about creating their
own streetwear label, but changed
course after a year of planning and From top:
sample development. “We grew AAI’s offerings
include jackets,
tired of what we created and with long‑sleeved
the streetwear idea. We decided to T‑shirts
and pouches.
[pivot] to something that was more Opposite page:
sophisticated, like a good menswear Kage (left) and
Keng How Chong
brand,” Chong explains.
The shift marked the birth of
Biro. The pair spent three years best makers and manufacturers in using a] traditional way of weaving
researching menswear, exploring Japan. Over time, we [ventured] cotton that uses old‑school knitting
factories in different countries. into something more elaborate machinery developed by the Italians
Ultimately, Japan became their and [unconventional].” in the 1920s. [This technique was
manufacturing partner and in 2013, To illustrate, he brings up the then] adopted by a few Japanese
Biro was officially launched. brand’s F. Classic line, introduced factories, which exposed the beauty
Pointing out that the label has a few years ago with the intention of loopwheel fabric to a wider
significantly evolved over the years, of reducing waste. “Over the years, discerning audience in recent
Chong says: “It started with an as we sold clothes at trade shows years,” he explains.
approach to artisan craftsmanship in various fashion capitals, we Hinting at a further evolution
[that saw us work] with some of the found it very [resource‑intensive]. for Biro, Chong lets on: “For
Each show meant making samples our next one or two drops, we’re
and spending 30 to 40 grand. To doing something that isn’t so safe
us, that’s quite wasteful, [especially anymore, so as to give a distinct
if ] nobody buys the clothes. identifier to Biro.”
Additionally, we needed new In 2017, the duo opened
samples for each season to showcase multi‑label concept store Shouten.
to buyers,” he says. “So we created “We didn’t open a Biro boutique
F. Classic—[the ‘F’ in its name store. We opened a store with
stands for] ‘Fundamental’, ‘Forever’, creative products that had
and ‘Future’—a range of staple artisanal value to complement our
items that, whether five or 10 years brand,” says Chong. Reflecting on
down the road, will be present in the initial stages of running the
IMAGES MASSIVEOUTFIT; AAI; MO.STUDIO

every show or every line sheet that store, he describes it as relatively

we present to retailers or buyers. smooth, fuelled by their optimism at
This way, we can reuse patterns the time. However, challenges began
and materials.” to emerge over time. “After two to
Within the F. Classic collection, three years, reality kicked in. We
the brothers incorporated a unique needed to get our numbers right.
fabric called loopwheel fabric, or Before we made money, we were
tsuri ami in Japanese. “It’s [made spending a lot of it. Our business 49
 acumen, especially in fashion, He also shares that in 2023, a guide for their 2024 initiatives
wasn’t great,” he admits candidly. the brothers arrived at a critical and campaigns.”
The duo operated the store for juncture when Massive Outfit For the duo, it felt like destiny.
two years in Kitchener Complex Studio (MO.Studio), their creative In a Facebook post, Chong
before moving to Mandarin Gallery studio launched in 2022, was waxed: “10 years ago, we held our
for three years. “The first year was approached by Beam Suntory NYC first Biro showcase in Raffles Hotel,
great, but the second and third for a global pitch. Balancing this supported by Suntory Kakubin.
[were tough],” he says. “Because of opportunity with the struggles 10 years on, we lent our creative
Covid‑19, business was bad. As we of managing the store became vision to the well‑loved Japanese
emerged from the pandemic, we overwhelming. “I couldn’t hire whisky brand which celebrated its
relocated to Great World in August more staff, but also couldn’t split 100th year of brilliance & spirit of
2022.” They eventually cut the lease my time,” he says. Closing the store ‘kodawari’ (meaning ‘the pursuit
short and closed in March last year. enabled the duo to fully focus on of perfection’ in Japanese).”
As Chong tells it, there were the pitch. The result? Success. The pair has been growing
many reasons for the closure. “We “Fortunately for us, we got the job.” the studio for the past two years.
had been persevering long enough Collaborating with Beam “It brings us greater fulfilment
and needed to cut our losses. I’m not Suntory NYC, the siblings crafted than operating the store,” says
an operator. I couldn’t manage a fresh brand identity for Japanese Chong. “This corporate side of our
the store well [and staffing was whisky Suntory Whisky Kakubin. work gives us a lot more drive and
a challenge]. To close it was a Chong shares proudly: “We built the push, and allows us to explore our
relief,” he confesses. “While it didn’t brand guide and playbook, which creativity, as the clients give us a lot
mean we failed, it was a lesson. It felt [the company] disseminated to its of bandwidth. Our fashion‑related
50 like a next step to better things.” various markets last year, to use as creative works [have expanded
 already checked that box with AAI, [than our original concept]. It’s
despite it being a relative newcomer. more sophisticated. It feels right for
“Our preparations and visual us,” he states.
presentations to select retailers and Chong credits their mother for
buyers have been well received, and nurturing their interest in fashion
this year, we’ll stock [AAI] products from an early age. “She was a tailor
at United Arrows Japan,” he shares. back then, and would bring us along
“We’ve always wanted to work with to her friends’ places and fabric
[the select shop] for Biro, and now stores in Chinatown,” he recalls.
we’re getting that chance with AAI.” “We followed her every weekend,
On why they started AAI, Chong and knew all the uncles and aunties.
says: “It was during the pandemic At home, she cut and sewed her
when we were exploring developing patterns, and we’d help her with
a new brand. We didn’t want to cutting them whenever needed.”
dilute Biro, but we still wanted Today, the brothers channel their
to create. People weren’t buying early exposure to fashion in distinct
$140 T‑shirts [at a time] when ways. While jointly overseeing
everybody was working from home. the fashion brands, their roles and
We wanted [another outlet] to approaches diverge. Chong’s role
continue our passion.” leans towards business development
Revisiting their original concept while Kage, who demonstrates
of creating a streetwear brand is merchandising acumen, excels in
significant for the Chong brothers. quality control and liaising with the
“After 10 years of developing Biro Japanese factories. “Whether it’s for
and building the brand, we’ve come our brands or studio work, we share
full circle. We’re ready to do this the load equally and work well hand
again. AAI has a lot more depth in hand,” Chong concludes.
From left:
MO.Studio’s
experiential design
for Suntory Whisky
Kakubin’s The
Art of Japanese
Highball music
and tasting event;
the key visual the
brothers created
for Suntory
Whisky Kakubin

into] photography, videography and

creative direction.”
On top of that, the duo started
working on a new streetwear
label, AAI—which stands for “An
Autonomous Individual”—last
year, which Chong shares departs
from Biro’s understated aesthetic.
“While Biro veers more towards
evergreen classic menswear, like
Ralph Lauren, AAI is the opposite.
It’s more contemporary and
experimental. We play with colours,
silhouettes and unconventional
materials; it’s the first time we’re
blasting bold logos on the back of
our shirts,” Chong expounds.
Another key difference between
the two lies in their beginnings.
While both have roots in Singapore,
Chong shares that they have been
trying to expand Biro beyond our
shores for years, whereas they have 51
 THE SCENE | COVER STORY

Why entrepreneur Loh Lik Peng

spends a third of his time serving our
cultural and public institutions
By Aun Koh. Photography by Darren Gabriel Leow
Styling by Debby Kwong

52
 GROOMING NIKKI FU USING NARS PHOTOGRAPHY ASSISTANT CHONG

Brunello

sneakers
Cucinelli
outfit, Moncler
Tod’s knit, Brunello
Cucinelli trousers
 erhaps one of the most
famous quotes of the second
half of the 20th century
comes from John F Kennedy,
delivered at his inauguration
as the 35th president of
the United States in 1961. thought that this gregarious, often slightly underdressed,
Standing on the East Portico and incredibly humble gentleman is involved with so
of the Capitol building in many of our important cultural and public institutions.
Washington, DC, he offered But once you take the time to chat with him and move the
a challenge to the American conversation beyond what he is best known for—F&B
public: “Ask not what your and hospitality, which can be tricky as Loh is more than
country can do for you, happy to talk about chefs and restaurants for hours—you
but what you can do for recognise the depth of knowledge and insight he has,
your country.” which explains why he is courted for these roles.
For decades, this idea has Loh is not one to toot his own horn. In fact, when
influenced baby boomers we approached him for this story, and told him why we
and their Generation X offspring. The sentiment is also a wanted to write about this quiet, and most often invisible,
universal one; service, after all, is definitely not (only) an work, his first reaction was to say no. However, after we
American conceit. For some, the value is instilled from a promised to ensure that he does not come across as a
young age; for others, it might be something they come to braggart (he most definitely is not); that this might be a
only later in life. chance to inspire young leaders to step up and serve in
For restaurateur and hotelier Loh Lik Peng, it all the way that he has; and that this would be an opportunity
started with a phone call. “I think I was in my late 20s or to discuss some of the institutions he works with, and the
early 30s [when] Madam Kay Kuok (a member of the great work they do, he finally relented.
eminent Kuok family of the Shangri‑La Group) called A little background: Loh is the founder of
me, completely out of the blue. I certainly knew who Unlisted Collection, which is behind some of the most
she was, but didn’t know she knew me at all. And I didn’t unique, exciting and acclaimed restaurants and hotels in
know what she was calling me for,” Loh tells Tatler. Singapore, China, Australia, the UK and Ireland; some
“When she asked me to join the board of the current establishments in Singapore include Burnt Ends,
Singapore Hotel Association (SHA), I nearly fell off my Zen, Brasserie Astoria, Esquina, Cloudstreet and
chair. I said yes to the invitation, but I didn’t really know Marguerite. Ask any young chef here who their dream
what I was getting myself into.” partner and backer would be, and we wager that Loh
That call, and the appointment that was offered later, would be either the first or second name they mention.
would set Loh on an unexpected path that has given the His appointment to the SHA board—his first “public
former lawyer and entrepreneur immense satisfaction. duty”, as Loh puts it—pushed him into a circle that
For the past two decades or so since he joined the SHA could have made this new experience uncomfortable.
board, he has been continuously asked to serve various Over coffee at Tatler House, he tells us: “I was the
public and cultural institutions through their boards. youngest on the board by 20‑plus years. There were
Today, Loh is the chairman of the School of the people like Kay Kuok, Kwek Leng Beng (chairperson
Arts Singapore (Sota), the Singapore Cruise Centre, of City Developments Limited), Albert Teo (CEO of
and hospitality school Shatec; the deputy chairman Amara Holdings) and Kwee Liong Keng (managing
of the Singapore Land Authority (SLA); and a board director of Pontiac Land). All these giants of the industry
member of the National Heritage Board (NHB). He and there I was! Their children are my contemporaries.
also previously served as chair of the SHA, the Asian I felt completely out of my depth, but they were very
Civilisations Museum (ACM) and the Singapore welcoming and treated me as an equal. I was always
Philatelic Museum, and sat on the boards of the grateful for the exposure and that I was allowed to have a
National Volunteer & Philanthropy Centre and the seat at the table.
Centre for Non‑Profit Leadership. “In those early days,” he continues, “the feeling of
He contributes so much of his time—about 30 per cent, being out of place, of doubting whether my contributions
Loh estimates—to helping these organisations. If you mattered, was palpable. That imposter syndrome was
were meeting him for the first time, you would never have real; sitting at a table, wondering if your voice holds any
weight. I’m particularly grateful for the early support
I received from key figures like Kay and Diana Ee‑Tan
(a business leader in the tourism, leisure and hospitality
management industry). They were instrumental in
easing me in, in shielding me from the brunt of that initial
intimidation. Without their guidance, the learning curve
would have been much steeper.” 55
 Soon after his SHA appointment, Loh was called
upon by Michael Koh, the former CEO of NHB, to join
its board. This, he tells us, was an even bigger surprise.
Looking back, though, he understands how his name
must have been put forward. “It boils down to being seen
as dependable and capable,” he says. “If you show you’re
solid in one gig, chances are, someone’s going to think of
you for another. It’s about showing up, doing the work
well, and proving you’re all in.”
As Loh became comfortable in his roles with
SHA and NHB, he gradually shook off his rookie
self‑doubts. “The imposter syndrome, that gnawing
doubt of belonging, gradually fades as you accumulate
experiences [and] as you witness your own growth,” he
says. As his confidence grew along with his experience,
and more appointments came his way, Loh was
eventually tapped to not just sit on boards but also
lead them.
Taking on a chairmanship, he tells us, is a big step,
because it carries greater responsibilities and demands
much more time than simply joining a board. “As
chairman, you need to set the direction, make sure the
board is run well, make sure that people are carrying
out their duties, and ensure that the organisation
follows the direction that the board gives it,” he explains.
“For some boards, you’re also much more aware of
your legal responsibilities, and your fiduciary duties
particularly. You’ll find that some boards, of course,
don’t have fiduciary duties, because some of them are
more honouree positions, but some of them do—like
Sota, which is effectively a large charity. So there’s a lot of
fiduciary duty, and that part can be scary. People can go to
jail if you don’t pay attention to your fiduciary duties.”
One of Loh’s most baffling and impressive
accomplishments is how he is able to juggle many
different hats. In his day job, he oversees 28 F&B
establishments and seven hotels in multiple countries.

“It’s about
showing up, He and his wife, the famed violinist Min Lee, homeschool
their two children. The responsibilities required of him

doing the
in effectively leading the boards of several organisations
are piled on top.
“I try to compartmentalise my time. I find I’m actually

work well,
very good at this,” Loh says, explaining how he manages.
“If I know a board meeting is coming up, I’ll spend a
day with the management team. I’ll review the papers
with [the team members]. Even when I’m travelling,

and proving
I’m reading the reports that come to me. In fact, because
these are all roles that interest me, I find [the work]
quite energising.”
He assures us that he is no micromanager. “The goal

you’re all in”

isn’t to be the one calling all the shots on the operational
front. That’s the job of the executives. They’re the ones
56 in the driver’s seat, responsible for the outcomes of their
decisions and the performance under their watch,” Loh CALL OF DUTY
says. “If I start running the show for them, it blurs the The week before our interview, we meet Loh for
lines of accountability. They need the space to own their the photo shoot for this story, during which he
actions, successes and lessons learnt. That’s how you patiently poses. The setting: a state property at
build a team that’s not only effective, but also empowered 5 Kadayanallur Street managed by SLA. As we walk
to lead and innovate.” around the stunning three‑storey building, we chat
The closest relationship, of course, is usually about the role that SLA plays in Singapore; after all,
between the chairman and the chief executive, and this the statutory board was often in the news. Loh shares
is something Loh relishes. “What I’ve always found his slight disappointment that a certain issue has
the most special is working with the people, especially overshadowed the importance of the organisation.
the chief executive. A great example is Kennie Ting “It’s evident that many people are unaware of the
(the director of ACM), who came into ACM when I was extensive impact SLA has on Singapore’s social services
chair. I really enjoyed working with him to establish a sector,” he says. “Beyond the well‑known management
new direction for ACM, and carefully working through of state properties—let’s not even dive into the
its programme and making changes to bring about a black‑and‑white homes—and land, SLA plays a crucial
new direction.” role in transforming old schools and army camps into 57
Brunello
Cucinelli outfit,
Tod’s loafers
community hubs. This effort isn’t solely about profit it’s about finding someone who brings a new dimension
maximisation for the government; there’s a significant to the table. When I’m looking to fill a spot on a board,
social purpose behind it. The work SLA does shows I aim for balance, which nowadays inevitably includes
the tangible benefits of government intervention: diversity. It’s crucial not just for optics, but also for
these are efforts only a government can undertake, the depth and breadth it adds to our discussions. But
given the financial and resource investments required. beyond diversity, the trickier part is achieving the right
Yet many people may not realise these initiatives chemistry among board members. You might encounter
often stem from governmental decisions aimed at someone exceptionally qualified yet argumentative,
enhancing community life.” which can skew the group dynamics in a way you didn’t
While Loh has fingers in many pies, he counts his intend. You want members who aren’t afraid to challenge
work in the arts, culture and heritage sectors as the the status quo, but in a manner that’s conducive to
appointments he relishes far above purely commercial collective progress. Finding people who can strike that
ones; if forced to name a single organisation that he is balance—willing to speak their minds without derailing
most passionate about, he admits it is Sota that the group’s harmony—is no small feat.”
has won his heart. Having said that, Loh would love
The national pre‑tertiary for more young Singaporeans to
specialised arts school faces many raise their hands for a shot at the

“When I’m
challenges, Loh says—most job. “I think the right way for
importantly, that of how to someone to put themselves
properly communicate its forward is to be direct

looking to fill a
purpose. Contrary to the about it. If you really
belief that Sota’s main want to serve, I’d love to
objective is to produce hear about it,” he says.

spot on a board,
artists, its broader “That said, we can’t
mission is to foster just take whoever is
an appreciation for interested. It’s crucial

I aim for balance,

the arts among its to ensure that new
attendees. After board members are
all, with students not only integrated

which nowadays
starting as young effectively but
as 12, he admits it is also capable of
unrealistic to expect making meaningful
them to decide on a contributions.
career in the arts at
such a young age.
But Loh credits the
inevitably includes Despite the difficulty
[of ] recruitment,
the goal remains to
Sota faculty and staff for
doing amazing work. “I’ve
worked with two principals
and numerous staff members
diversity” identify individuals
who can offer valuable
insights and actively engage
in board discussions once
throughout my time there, and the given the opportunity.”
dedication they show is nothing short What Loh does not say, but clearly
of remarkable,” he says. He highlights that believes, is that these opportunities are
“witnessing the dedication of these teachers and badges of honour; not to be worn and shown off—
principals first hand has been an incredible experience. never that—but something to be quietly and extremely
It’s easy for outsiders to criticise without understanding proud of; his ultimate goal through these appointments
the depth of commitment most of these educators have. is to enhance the quality of life for fellow Singaporeans.
They’re not just teaching; they’re shaping lives, often We can also tell that he loves the fact that this is a shared
sacrificing their own time and emotional well‑being goal. “You know, most people have this impression
for the benefit of the students. Being involved in such a of civil servants as [being] a little bit boring or very
nurturing and passionate community has been one of the conservative, but my experience is that the vast majority
most rewarding aspects of my role.” —or at least the ones I’ve been lucky enough to have
While Loh was once the surprised youngster getting worked with—are passionate people trying to do their
called upon to serve by respected seniors, he is now the very best for Singaporeans,” he says. “This has been
one making those calls to the next generation. “I’ve put demonstrated time and time again by the extensive
a fair bit of effort into [recruiting new board members], efforts they undertake to make a positive difference
focusing heavily on ensuring that potential candidates in citizens’ lives, especially through arts, culture and
have both the bandwidth and the commitment,” he says. heritage. I’m just grateful that I’ve been allowed to be
“It’s not just about having a chat and seeing if they fit; part of this work.” 59
From left: Tamara
Ralph; Giambattista
Valli outfit
 We catch up with
Tamara Ralph on
her comeback,
explore modern
haute couture
looks, and meet
the custodians
PHOTOGRAPHY ANTOINE & CHARLIE (MODEL)

of the kebaya in
Singapore
 STYLE | FASHION PICKS

VERY SWOOSH
The ongoing and in-demand
collaboration between Jacquemus
and Nike has welcomed its third
drop. The hype around it can not
only be attributed to the popularity
of each brand, but also the fusion of

HAUTE PAPER DOLLS

a celebrity client list, and fans among theatrical fashion and
couture enthusiasts thanks to his distinctive work. For his
seventh collection, Shadow Dance, which draws inspiration
from Victorian-era shadow puppets, Reed has incorporated his
own twist on sustainability. He has also worked with renowned
wallpaper specialist Fromental to add a textural effect and
historical element to the designs. The heavily embroidered demi-
couture collection highlights ball gowns and corsetry, as well
as versatile pieces like corset-and-skirt pairings and little black
dresses with a touch of drama.

62
 Belgian heritage luxury brand Delvaux introduces the Léonce family,
a collection steeped in personal history inspired by the cherished bond
between a grandmother and granddaughter. Passed down from one
generation to the next, this heirloom bag embodies the artistic spirit of
Léonce, a renowned painter. The original archival shape serves as the
foundation for a contemporary collection, culminating as an envelope
pochette accented with its own signature D-shaped brass buckle. Crafted
from opera calf, one of Delvaux’s rarest leathers, the collection also
offers shoulder bags of varying sizes and a chic crossbody style.

POSED FIGURE
Korean actress Lim Ji Yeon, famed for
her role in the Netflix hit series The
Glory, is the latest member of the
Loewe ambassador family.
She joins fellow actresses
FROM THE SOURCE Taylor Russell and Yang Mi in
The LVMH-backed deadstock unveiling the spring-summer
repurposing platform Nona Source 2024 campaign. Captured
has launched its first ambassador by David Sims, the trio is
programme, featuring four young depicted in a series of
designers under the initiative photos paying homage
Mindful Creatives Collective. to the diverse artistic
One of them is LVMH Prize 2017 identities of Lynda
finalist Cecilie Bahnsen: the Benglis, a prominent
Copenhagen-based designer is figure in American
working with the deadstock fabrics post-war sculpture.
provided by the online platform Effortlessly carrying
to create a five-piece capsule the new collection of textual
collection. It showcases a mix of knits, twisted daywear,
voluminous silhouettes inspired draped dresses and soft bags,
by the brand’s early collections, including Squeeze, which
as well as slim dresses and denim has claimed its “It” bag status,
trousers that reflect Bahnsen’s the actresses offer their take on
contemporary interpretation. Benglis’ signature
posed portraits.
63
 STYLE | SPOTLIGHT

“I
t was never a question of
coming back—it would
be more of a question
about when,” says Tamara
Ralph, the designer and founder
of her namesake couture label.
Having previously been half of
Ralph & Russo (yes, the couture
brand behind Meghan Markle’s
engagement dress), the Australian
designer is no stranger to haute
couture. A graduate of Melbourne’s
Whitehouse Institute of Design, she
made a strategic move to Europe in
2005 to start her career as a designer.
“Growing up in Australia [in
the 1980s and 90s], it was a very
different industry there than it is
now, as a luxury market and as a
fashion market. So I always knew
that I wanted to be in Europe, and
moving there was quite a definitive
step. The European fashion scene
was quite removed from Australia at
that particular time,” Ralph recalls.
“I moved completely over to the
other side of the world, where I
knew nobody, I had no family, no
connections whatsoever. And I built
a foundation of a career for myself.”

Designer Tamara Ralph talks about her fearless comeback,

her surprise collaboration with Audemars Piguet, and the
64 pure joy of designing couture By Cherry Mui
Clockwise, from far
left: Tamara Ralph;
backstage at Tamara
Ralph spring-summer
2024; fitting pieces
from Tamara Ralph
spring-summer 2024

Born into her family’s fourth Beyoncé to the Duchess of Sussex

generation of couturiers, for her engagement photos, and
Ralph learnt the techniques other royals from Europe and the
and craftsmanship from her Middle East.
grandmother and mother growing To Ralph, the beauty of couture
up. After settling in London, she is that it’s such a personal, bespoke
started wearing her own bespoke service. “You’re not limited to
designs to events; people took note, creating what you put on the
and started asking her to create runway; you’re working closely with
pieces for them. As her reputation all these incredible clients that are
spread, Ralph officially founded from different countries and from
Ralph & Russo in 2006 with her different cultures,” she says. “It
then partner Michael Russo, who is a mixture of probably about 50
took care of the business side. In per cent from the elements of the
2013, the London-based bespoke runway, or iterations of a runway
brand made history as the very piece, and the other 50 per cent are
first British house in 100 years to completely private collections that
be invited by the Fédération de nobody has ever seen.”
la Haute Couture et de la Mode The last time I spoke to Ralph was
(FHCM) to show as a guest member in early 2020, when Ralph & Russo
of the Chambre Syndicale during celebrated its 10th anniversary
Paris Haute Couture Week. “It’s with a beautiful collection of
almost like being an actor and elevated versions of its past
winning an Oscar: it’s kind of like signature and highly recognisable
solidifying elements of your work designs—fundamentally feminine
and your creativity.” and elegant. However, given how
The achievements didn’t stop dependent the industry is on festive
there: the brand went on to dress occasions and glamorous red-carpet
celebrities, from Angelina Jolie and events, the pandemic rewrote the 65
 “Designing is in my
blood ... I would
never feel whole if
I wasn’t creating”
customised Tamara Ralph creations. with ostrich feathers to satin dresses
“It’s been [a blessing] and very featuring crystal-encrusted cages,
motivational to have so many people the collection is a joy to behold.
that really appreciate my work … “It is designed to stand the test
then having my daughter through of time, while also serving as a
this time was also motivation reminder of how invaluable the
in itself. It gives you an inner notion of time truly is,” the designer
strength—being a mother—that you explains. “[It’s] breathing life
never knew you had.” into designs [that are] crafted to
ending of that particular fairy tale: Due to popular demand, endure the relentless passage of
less than a year after we spoke, Ralph debuted the Tamara Ralph time.” The sophisticated elegance
the company eventually went collection in July 2023 for the achieved through intricate savoir-
into administration and the duo autumn-winter 2023 season. fare, amplified by the beautiful
parted ways. Models in elaborate rosette- and juxtaposition of rich textiles with
“Designing is in my blood; it’s crystal-adorned gowns and tweed jewel-like adornments, is solid
not something that I was doing for suits embellished with feathers and proof of the years that Ralph has
a job, it was something I was doing pearls walked down the runway spent as a couturier.
because it was a passion of mine. against the ornate decor of the The grand return also marks a
I think that I would never feel Shangri-La Paris. “The basis of full reunion of working with her
whole if I wasn’t creating,” Ralph the collection drew on some of atelier craftsmen, some of whom
tells Tatler. She took a two-year these struggles and moments that Ralph has worked with for over a
break, moved to Monte Carlo and I had been through in the previous decade. “To all be back together,
welcomed her daughter with her years. My work has always been like a family, has been really
fiancé, Indian billionaire Bhanu innately feminine, and I wanted to amazing for me and for them,” says
Choudhrie: “It was a time that I show a stronger side of myself that the designer, who, at the time of our
reflected, [but] I was still creating had been shaped through these interview, was five months pregnant
during that time. I was creating for a experiences,” she says. with her second child, another girl.
different purpose and the next part Recurring and signature “To have had my daughter through
of my chapter as well. It’s something feminine elements such as roses are this time: she’s been incredibly
that I never thought twice that made tougher by casting them in inspiring for me, and the fact that
I would not go back and do.” We materials like metal, while pearl- she loves what I do. She’s almost
now know that that next chapter is encrusted, armour-like structures become my little protégé, which is
completely on her own terms. add toughness to otherwise delicate really lovely.”
“One thing that was really nice dresses. “It was really celebrating A second child isn’t the
was to have so many loyal clients a strength in femininity … the designer’s only new adventure: her
and followers of my work globally; elements that I’m quite well known brand has partnered with Swiss
that also kind of pushed me to for in my work, the elegance, the haute horlogerie manufacturer
relaunch. I was getting calls from sophistication, the modernity, the Audemars Piguet on a limited-
different clients from all around the usefulness, the femininity, but edition Royal Oak Concept Flying
world, begging me to start again, making it cleaner, newer, stronger, Tourbillon timepiece. “They’re an
because they ‘didn’t have anything harder and just more unapologetic.” incredible house that encapsulates
to wear’,” Ralph says. Even before The notion of strength continues everything that I stand for, and as a
the official brand launch, the likes in her spring-summer 2024 couture brand as well,” Ralph tells me, the
of Fan Bingbing, Naomi Campbell collection, recently presented in excitement palpable in her voice.
and Penélope Cruz turned heads Paris. Consisting of 28 looks, from “And I think that synergy is two
66 on global red carpets in their voluminous gowns embellished brands coming together that really
celebrate craftsmanship.” And while their mixing of textures, so that
she was initially concerned about really comes through in the piece as
the project, she soon found her well. The rich materials, the colour
stride. “I was thinking ‘Oh my gosh, palette, the master craftsmanship—
how am I going to create a watch?’ they’re all combined and inspired by
Then when I sat down and started haute couture.”
creating, I thought about the same Ralph is currently focusing on
process I would [follow to] create her couture line, with a long-term
any other piece of fashion: I look at goal of building a lifestyle brand.
it as a work of art on its own. I could “It’s a lifestyle offering where I’m
not stop sketching once I started building a world of my work. And
because I was so inspired.” that’s why to be able to work with
The signature octagonal bezel of incredible brands and build on other
the Royal Oak Concept is dressed categories that I haven’t before
up with Ralph’s signature elements is very important for me and the
of bold femininity and modernity, in future of the house,” she says.
a frosted gold shade, which gives a That Ralph has carved out a
matt, textured shimmer. “My shades career focusing on bespoke and
of nudes, cognacs, champagnes and couture is remarkable. There is
golds—which I find is a palette that is only a very small coterie of female
incredibly feminine—was the basis of designers leading the creative
my creativity,” she says. The interior direction of prestigious couture Looks from Tamara
features concentric layers of bronze- maisons (only three during her Ralph spring-summer
2024. Opposite page:
hued discs, while the watch’s beating Ralph & Russo time; perhaps as Tamara Ralph
heart is sprinkled with tiny diamond many as 11 now, including Maria
spheres, and 18-carat pink-gold hour Grazia Chiuri at Dior and Chanel’s
and minute hands. “[Audemars Virginie Viard), let alone those
Piguet is] very much known for who have successfully founded

one. “I think there should be more

female-led couture houses; women
designing for women is an incredible
thing,” Ralph says. “I had so many
blessed opportunities to work with
incredible women, some of the most
influential women around the world
… designing pieces for the events
that are pinnacles of their own lives.
To share in those moments, in these
incredible stories of history and of
these women’s lives, is one of the
most rewarding parts of the job.” 67
 STYLE | FASHION

Common Thread
S
Kebaya makers and he is one of the most known as kain wiron (a rectangular
enthusiasts in Singapore enduring icons of cloth with small vertical pleats at
share what the traditional Singapore; the symbol of the front), which is traditionally
the warm hospitality that worn long and wrapped around
dress means to them— the Singapore Airlines (SIA) is [the waist], gives it that tapered
and how they are keeping known for, and an ambassador silhouette. I found it fascinating
the heritage alive of the nation to the world. But that they made a ready-to-wear
By Hashirin Nurin Hashimi there is a much bigger icon than tailored skirt, while still keeping
Photography by Frenchescar Lim the Singapore Girl—and it is the that aesthetic. It doesn’t look stiff or
sarong kebaya that she wears. First restrictive, and [the pleats] still fan
worn by the flight attendants of out when you walk.”
the Malayan Airways (where SIA’s The pair acquired four more
origins can be traced back to) in generations of the iconic uniform,
1968, the kebaya was reimagined by from each subsequent decade
Parisian couturier Pierre Balmain thereafter. (Aside from SIA, Garuda
in 1974, rendering the uniform in Indonesia, Malaysia Airlines and
traditional Asian batik—this is the Royal Brunei Airlines also adopted
version that remains a hallmark of the kebaya as the uniform for their
SIA till today. female crew, and a number of
For Sufiyanto Amat Sopingi, regional airlines have followed suit
one-half of the duo behind since.)
Kebaya Societé, an online resource To highlight its significance
chronicling Nusantara fashion in as the region’s shared cultural
Singapore, Malaysia and Indonesia identity and living heritage, five
from the turn of the 20th century countries, comprising Singapore,
to the 1980s, it was an early Brunei, Indonesia, Malaysia and
version of the Singapore Airlines Thailand jointly nominated the
kebaya that inspired both he and kebaya for inscription onto the
co-founder Muhammad Afiq Juana Unesco Representative List of
to start collecting vintage kebayas. the Intangible Cultural Heritage
“The first piece that we got was the of Humanity in March last year.
HAIR, MAKE-UP AND GROOMING BENEDICT CHOO

Singapore Airlines kebaya from The heritage dress “represents

1969. I was just blown away by its and celebrates the region’s
construction,” says Sufiyanto, who is rich shared history, promotes
Paris-trained in fashion design. cross-cultural understanding,
“[The details such as] the and continues to be present and
scooped neckline, the hidden zip, actively produced and worn
the pattern on the sleeves, and by many communities across
the placement of the darts reflect Southeast Asia”, according
the aesthetic silhouette of that to Singapore’s National
68 time period,“ he says. “The skirt, Heritage Board.
Sufiyanto Amat Sopingi
of Kebaya Societé, with
the Singapore Airlines
kebaya from 1969
(foreground) as well as
other pieces from the
collection, which centres
around Malay material
culture and aesthetic
Raymond Wong,
the designer and
craftsperson of
Rumah Kim Choo
 “The kebaya is a symbol of and Eurasians, reflecting the nyonya (waist-length and usually
the elegance and beauty of a lady unique blend of cultures in decorated with embroidery),
of the Nusantara [in the Malay Southeast Asia. Typically identified among others. It is paired with
archipelago]. It connects and unites as a blouse or tunic, the kebaya garments such as a kain (a long
the women in Southeast Asia,” traditionally comes with an open piece of rectangular cloth wrapped
shares Ratianah Tahir, the founder- front and long sleeves. The style and tucked around the waist) or
designer of Kebaya by Ratianah. varies across the different cultures sarong (a stitched, tubular skirt),
“It’s a beautiful piece of garment in terms of the materials, such and is usually secured with either
worn by our mothers, grandmothers as silk, voile and lace, and the kerongsang (brooch), pins or
and great-grandmothers, and embellishments. buttons.
I want my daughter and my future There are a variety of ways to One of the most distinct
granddaughters to wear it, too.” wear it: as a kebaya panjang (long features of the kebaya nyonya
In Singapore, the kebaya and loose-fitting); kebaya pendek worn by the Peranakan Chinese
continues to be an integral part of (short and figure-hugging); kebaya women is the sulam embroidery.
the cultural heritage and identity kotabaru (with an additional “We strategically position our
for various communities, in panel collar connecting the front embroidery so that it enhances the
particular the Malays, Peranakans opening of the garment); and kebaya cut of the kebaya [and accentuates
the figure of the wearer],” says
Raymond Wong, the designer and

“The kebaya is very

craftsperson of Rumah Kim Choo.
Motifs such as flowers, animals or
mythical creatures, among others,

dynamic; it’s always

may be found throughout, or along
the neckline, sleeves and bottom
ends of the garment.

evolving to reflect the

Meanwhile, “the Malays
emphasised more on the textile”,
shares Sufiyanto, “for example,

current generation’s
silk and songket (fabric woven
with gold or silver threads), not
so much embellishments such
as embroidery or sequins. With

taste in fashion and

the exception of, for example, the
kebaya keringkam (gold thread
embroidery), which is something

lifestyle. If you want

that’s worn for special occasions.
When it comes to silhouettes,
some may prefer [their kebayas] to

the younger generation

be on the looser side, while others
prefer it to be super tight. So it
really depends on the wearer.”

to appreciate and
Kebaya Societé’s collection
centres around Malay material
culture and aesthetics, focusing
mostly on kebayas using Malay

wear it, you need to be textiles such as songket and batik,

or craftsmanship such as telepuk
(design printed onto cloth with

sensitive to their needs

gold or silver foil) and keringkam.
While the duo collects from
other [ethnic] groups such as the

and wants”— RAYMOND WONG

Eurasian and Arabs, their primary
collection centres around kebayas
worn by the Malays. 71
 “The kebaya is a To her, as a kebaya maker, it is
more than just making a garment.
“It’s how you make the wearer

symbol of the elegance

feel. When you wear the kebaya,
you look beautiful whatever size
you are. I want to help the wearer

and beauty of a lady

wear it beautifully,” says Ratianah.
“We want to focus on things that
unite us, not break us. It’s a beautiful

of the Nusantara [in

culture to be shared.”
Wong is heartened that there
is renewed appreciation for the
heritage dress in light of the

the Malay archipelago]. multinational Unesco nomination.

“The kebaya is very dynamic;
it’s always evolving to reflect

It connects and
the current generation’s taste in
fashion and lifestyle. If you want the
younger generation to appreciate

unites the women in

and wear it, you need to be sensitive
to their needs and wants,” he says.
“I started adding Swarovski crystals

Southeast Asia”
and sequins onto my kebaya,
and got scolded by an [older]
Peranakan auntie for adulterating
it. To me, it’s beautiful because

— RATIANAH TAHIR
I’m not putting it everywhere, just
on certain areas to glam it up, so it
looks like dewdrops on the flower
“The 1960s is my favourite era,” replaced with a back zip closure, [motifs].” Wong has also created a
Sufiyanto tells us. “Because that’s which is referred to as ‘kebaya halter-style kebaya as well as one
when I felt it sort of changed the modern’ to differentiate it from without sleeves.
fashion landscape and shaped the the traditional ones.” Perhaps Sufiyanto sums it best:
kebaya fashion scene we see today”. Ratianah, who makes both “Today, there’s no restrictions or
During that time, women became kebayas and baju kurung (loose- barriers on what makes culture.
more fashion-conscious—with fitting knee-length blouse and I think a lot of people have this
magazines introducing fashion long skirt), considers the kebaya misconception that the [Unesco]
from Europe. “But at the same time modern as just one era in the nomination is talking about
they wanted to keep tradition as evolving kebaya story. “During the origins. However, it’s more to
something that’s very much close to 1960s, it was a symbol of women show that these five countries have
them,” he explains. being independent, joining the a commonality in terms of the
“So you see a lot of the modern workforce and earning their kebaya. I think it’s more important
kebayas, which marry the western own money. The story of the to understand that this piece of
silhouettes with traditional textiles kebaya is in every woman of every clothing has somewhat bonded and
such as batik and songket. There generation. I want the younger unified all these different countries.
was a lot of experimentation that generation to fall in love again, and There are very minor differences,
happened in the 1960s. One of bring back the romance between a but overall it’s something that’s very
72 them is that the front closure was woman and her kebaya.” much shared within.”
Ratianah Tahir, the
founder-designer of
Kebaya by Ratianah
74
HAIR AND MAKE-UP GREGO USING KEUNE HAIRCOSMETICS AND NARS
MODELS JAY COOLAHAN, DORINA MARTA AT AVE MANAGEMENT
PHOTOGRAPHY ASSISTANT KHAI FASHION ASSISTANT SHAIRAH THOUFEEKH
A New
Dawn
Usher in the promise of the
weather turning with highlights
from Brunello Cucinelli’s
spring/summer 2024 collection.
As precious weaves make way
for a timeless colour palette,
celebrate the spirit of travel
with investment‑worthy
separates and the Italian
institution’s commitment to
quality craftsmanship
Photography by Reuben Foong.
Styling by Adriel Chiun

Jay wears Brunello

Cucinelli jacket, shirt,
trousers, pocket square.
Dorina wears Brunello
Cucinelli jacket, vest,
trousers, hat, bandana
 Jay wears Brunello
Cucinelli jacket,
shirt, trousers, pocket
square. Dorina wears
Brunello Cucinelli
cardigan, vest, trousers.
Opposite page:
Jay wears Brunello
Cucinelli jacket, shirt,
trousers, belt, sandals.
Dorina wears Brunello
Cucinelli dress, heels

76
 H E I G H T
O F
F A S H I O N
 STYLE | FASHION SHOOT

In search of
modern haute couture,
we explore the latest
youthful couture pieces
from spring 2024.
See how designers are
approaching the pinnacle
of savoire-faire and
craftsmanship with a
contemporary twist
Photography by Antoine & Charlie
Styling by Cherry Mui

Chanel outfit.
Opposite page:
Giambattista
Valli outfit
Rahul Mishra dress;
Christian Louboutin
shoes. Opposite page:
Gaurav Gupta outfit

80
82
Valentino outfits

83
 Viktor & Rolf outfit.
Opposite page:
Chanel outfits

84
Schiaparelli outfit.
Opposite page:
Rahul Mishra outfit

86
87
88
HAIR TIÉ TOYAMA AT CALLISTE MAKE UP HÉLÈNE VASNIER AT HOME MANICURE MAGDA S. MODELS JUNYAO LIU, NYAGOA DIU, EMMA MORICE AT SELECT PHOTO ASSISTANT HUGO FAZI
DIGITAL TECHNICIAN LOUIS CLERC AT SHOTLIST STYLING ASSISTANTS IULIAN CARAMAN, PAULINE CREACH PRODUCTION SARAH HACHMANN
Peet Dullaert outfit.
Opposite page: Giorgio
Armani Privé outfit

89
 STYLE | BEAUTY PICKS

HIGH SHINE
It looks like the glossy lip trend is
here to stay as brands continue to
push out new iterations of lip gloss,
promising juicier and plumper
lips. Case in point: Gucci Beauty’s
Gloss à Lèvres is now available
in six new stunning colours.
This luxurious lip gloss instantly
volumises and adds shine to the
lips, along with a hint of colour.
The product also offers hydration
for up to eight hours, providing lip
care on top of that desired glossy lip
look that will never go out of style.

WORDS ANDREA SAADAN IMAGES GUCCI BEAUTY; CHANEL; HERMÈS PARFUMS; GUERLAIN; GLOW RECIPE
ACE THAT BASE
Looking for a more breathable
make‑up base, especially in
Singapore’s climate? The new
ONE WITH NATURE Le Blanc La Base Légère by Chanel
Herbes Vives is the third is designed to meet the skin’s needs
instalment in the H24 line by during hot and humid months.
Hermès Parfums, as the maison’s Use it as the first step when applying
perfumer Christine Nagel pursues face make‑up, ideally before
her botanical vision while taking foundation. The fresh gel formula,
inspiration from the modern which promises up to eight hours
man on the move. It is a fresh of wear, is suitable for normal to
and herbaceous fragrance that combination skin, and also boasts a
is enveloping and recreates the sun protection factor of 40 as well
“happy smell of nature after as a PA+++ rating, shielding the skin
the rain”, according to Nagel. from both UVA and UVB rays. With
The perfume bottle comes in this, the complexion will appear
a beautiful green hue and is more even and illuminated, with a
90 also refillable. sheer and natural semi‑matte finish.
 PETAL BLOOMS
To celebrate the beauty of the
sakura, Guerlain has introduced
a limited‑edition Rouge G case
adorned with cherry blossom
prints—an exclusive design that
is part of a collaboration between
Violette Serrat, Guerlain’s
creative director of makeup, and
Japanese artist Ryo Shinagawa.
The brand’s Rouge G Satin
lipstick collection also welcomes
a brand‑new hue: Cherry Bloom,
a soft rosewood with almond
tones that was inspired by the
colour of sakura petals.

JUICY GLOW
Fans of the K‑beauty brand Glow
Recipe will be thrilled to know
that they can now experience its
bestselling Watermelon Glow
Pink Juice Moisturizer more
sustainably. Formulated with
vitamin‑rich watermelon extract
and skin‑plumping hyaluronic acid
to help enhance the skin’s radiance,
the oil‑free gel moisturiser now
comes in a refillable bottle—only
the second Glow Recipe product to
go down this route, after the Plum
Plump Hyaluronic Cream.

91
 STYLE | BEAUTY FEATURE

A Whiff of
Fragrance
At The Art & Science There is a mysterious aura the fragrance showcase was said to
of Fragrance event at that surrounds the iconic be the first of its kind.
Louvre Museum in Paris. It is, Guests first walked through a
Carrousel du Louvre after all, home to some of the corridor where one side of the wall
in Paris this February, most canonical artworks in the was filled with fragrances from
French beauty giant world. While secrets and intrigue L’Oréal’s portfolio, which it has been
L’Oreal unveiled the abound at the museum, there was building since 1964, from classics
savoir faire behind its something different about the air on such as Miracle by Lancôme and
one February morning. Acqua di Gio by Giorgio Armani
luxury perfumery, along Set beneath the museum to newer scents such as Paradoxe
with the company’s is Carrousel du Louvre, by Prada and Libre by Yves Saint
focus on sustainability where French beauty giant Laurent (YSL). The fragrance
and innovation L’Oréal hosted social media showcase featured four different
IMAGES L’OREAL GROUPE

By Andrea Saadan influencers and members of the rooms dedicated to specific brands,
media from around the world, namely Lancôme, Prada and
including Tatler Singapore, for Yves Saint Laurent, and a secret
The Art & Science of Fragrance room with new scents, which will
92 event. Organised by L’Oréal Luxe, only be unveiled later this year.
 In each room, guests interacted and made
with fragrance experts and the exclusively
teams that worked on some of available to
the perfumes by L’Oréal Luxe to L’Oréal, the
discover more about the creative technology is
process and unique stories behind a waterless,
each scent. low-energy,
From the original idea to the final slow extraction
spritz, the creation of a fragrance process that From top:
is a collective journey several years reveals the Cyril Chapuy,
the president
in the making. It took seven years exact smell of of L’Oréal Luxe;
of work and more than 1,500 trials an ingredient Karine Lebret, the
global vice president
to achieve the contemporary while preserving of scent science and
scent that is Libre by YSL. This is its integrity. fragrance design
at L’Oréal Groupe.
just one example of the pursuit of “Twenty years Opposite page:
emotion and olfactive harmony ago, we were A wall featuring some
of L’Oréal’s most
by the talented perfumers and thinking about iconic fragrances
experts who are committed to this notion of greeted guests at
the art of scent-making. a [fragrance] the entrance of
The Art & Science
As the world’s largest cosmetics blend. Today, of Fragrance event.
and beauty company, innovation we are more
is key to the company’s growth driven by the quality of the not only in fragrances but also
and success. In November 2023, ingredients. So we are completely skincare. One of our skincare
the L’Oréal Groupe announced focused on innovation in terms of collections, Absolue by Lancôme,
an exclusive partnership with ingredients,” said Karine Lebret, for instance, is selling almost
Cosmo International Fragrances the global vice president of 30 per cent of its volume in
to bring a green sciences-based scent science and fragrance design refills,” shared Cyril Chapuy,
extraction process, Osmobloom, at L’Oréal Groupe. “Osmobloom the president of L’Oréal Luxe.
to revolutionise the art of fine is a new way of extracting flowers “It’s a very important way of
fragrance creation. Developed ... and it is a dream for perfumers consuming, and we must educate
by Cosmo International Fragrances because you will be able to, for the young[er] generation if they
example, smell tuberose exactly as it are not used to doing it.”
smells in the field.” The year 2023 was a historical
The inaugural application of this one for L’Oréal Luxe, where it
innovative process—an exclusive accelerated the development
tuberose extract—will soon be of refills, including those for its
featured in an upcoming luxury blockbuster fragrances and major
fragrance by the beauty giant. launches. Today, all the fragrance
Meanwhile, sustainability brands of the L’Oréal Groupe are
in beauty may seem like a new committed to making refills the
concept for some, but not the new normal. After all, L’Oréal
L’Oréal Groupe. In 1992, Mugler works closely with top glass
became the pioneer of refillable bottle manufacturers to create
fragrances. The bottles were exceptional flacons that can be
game-changers and introduced an kept forever. Whether minimalist
avant-garde movement. or bold, each perfume bottle tells a
“For me, it’s highly critical story. From the emblematic shape
that consumers change their of Lancôme’s La Vie Est Belle to the
behaviour and start consuming star of Mugler’s Angel, these bottles
more responsibly [with] refills make beautiful objets d’art. 93
 An Air
of Amaffi
Haute perfumery house Amaffi
presents a world of exclusive, elusive
fragrances crafted by renowned noses
who harness some of the finest natural
ingredients from across the globe

What does luxury mean to you? president and founder of Amaffi the enthralling Middle East, is an
In the world of tangible goods, Perfume House muses: “I consider incredibly precious, and therefore
luxury is often defined by two Amaffi as the means by which prized, ingredient derived from
things: a storied heritage and great classical perfumery would tropical agar trees. Its exclusivity
unparalleled quality. be reborn. Great fragrances are comes from the difficulty of
In perfumery, luxury can be masterpieces as precious as great harvesting: only 2 per cent of
measured by a host of distinct paintings or classical play. We wild agar trees produce oud,
factors, from how rare and rarefied have worked for many years with which develops from an infected
the ingredients are, and the level the best perfumers in the world, heartwood mould that creates a
of craftsmanship employed to and I’m proud to present Amaffi dark, extremely fragrant resin.
blend these olfactive layers, to the fine fragrances to Singapore’s Oftentimes referred to as liquid
concentration of such prized natural connoisseurs. An Amaffi fragrance gold, oud oil is one of the most
extracts that result in is not just a fragrance, it is art”. expensive commodities in
unique elixirs with great the world and one of the most
olfactive complexity and PRIZED POSSESSIONS intoxicating‑smelling essences.
sillage. Checking these One exemplification of an Woody and aromatic with a warm
boxes and more is Amaffi masterpiece is powdery finish, Power for women
Amaffi, which Power, which comes in is a robust fragrance that promises
prides itself two iterations—one for to reign in any room—and leave
as one of the men and the other, for a lasting impression long after
most exclusive women. The latter is you’ve left it. Fit for a queen,
haute perfume a sumptuous oriental it comes housed in a metallic
houses in the composition, with oud orb, hand‑finished in polished
world—and even making an authoritative onyx enamel embellished with
has a royal link impression alongside gold filigree ribbons inlaid with
to boot. addictive amber, 2,026 Swarovski crystals.
An enigmatic sandalwood and That is another signature trait
IMAGES AMAFFI

woman referred musk. Oud, familiar of Amaffi fragrances: intricately

to as madame to fragrance enthusiasts designed vessels. Each Amaffi
94 Amaffi today, the and synonymous with perfume is presented in what could
only be described as an objet d’art, Clockwise, from top: Amaffi Ovation; Amaffi absolute, it takes half a tonne of
and so it is with the brand’s newest Intrigant; Amaffi Sultry Jungle. Opposite page, flowers to obtain just 300ml of
from top: The Amaffi boutique at The Shoppes
pair: Maracoca for women, a at Marina Bay Sands; Amaffi Power for women narcissus oil and as a result, it can
fresh, creamy blend radiating take up to four years to produce
with notes of frangipani, jasmine, And calling lucky nights out at enough precious oil for an Amaffi
gardenia, tonka beans, rose and the casino to mind, Place Your Bets fragrance with enduring sillage.
yuzu; and Maracoca for men, an comes in a bottle of a completely Then there is Intrigant, an
euphoric fusion of lavender, mint different spirit. The striking oud‑powered fragrance for men
pouliot, amyris, vanilla, musk and green‑and‑gold flacon is designed to that is an intriguing dance of East
sagebrush. Both flacons sit on a look like a roulette wheel, housing and West. Enveloping its robust
vanity like sculptures, with each a daring men’s fragrance composed heart of oud oil are deeply fougere
boasting undulating curves crafted of lavender, sagebrush, sandalwood notes of earthy citrus vetiver and
from alabaster‑hued, high‑quality and herbaceous galbanum with zesty‑aromatic elemi, before drying
frosted glass. earthy, balsamic nuances. down to a luxuriously mossy, green
Bottled in an equally ethereal Noted noses the world over will and woody finish.
flacon is the women’s scent Ariadna, also tell you that the best fragrances And finally, the Jungle
from the Gods and Goddesses they have ever made are those they Collection’s Tropical Rain and
collection. Evoking the spirit of were given free reign to create—and Sultry Jungle. A creative olfactive
the Garden of Eden, sensuality and with no restrictions when it comes expression for men, Tropical Rain
hypnoticism come in the to resources. And at Amaffi, there is an uplifting blend of milky‑green
form of a luscious are no limits on creativity, time fig leaves, juicy fruits and
floral labyrinth of and choice of raw materials from heart‑warming sandalwood with
tuberose, orchid, across the globe. Besides the the rain‑like petrichor. Meanwhile,
ylang‑ylang, aforementioned precious oud, only Sultry Jungle is a women’s scent
honeysuckle and the rarest, top‑quality ingredients described as “the fragrance of a hot
orange blossom. approved by the International jungle”, whose invigorating floral
Fragrance Association fuel its notes of gardenia and tuberose
fragrances, including Grasse’s swirl around exotic orchid oil for
renowned rose a lingering trail that becomes
centifolia, which even more luminous in the heat.
blooms for only Both fragrances come in gorgeous
20 to 25 days a year. gradient‑coloured glass flacons
Ovation is a bedecked with gold‑tone ornaments
luxurious fragrance in the shape of bamboo and topped
with a classic with a large, hand‑polished blue or
French bouquet green sapphire crystal.
of rose centifolia, All 41 Amaffi fragrances
iris and the rare hold high concentrations of
narcissus absolute. precious raw materials—from 20
Absolutes are the to 22 per cent, to be exact—and
most concentrated fortifying these unique blends is
variation of pure alcohol, the perfect carrier
fragrances in the for fine fragrances, ensuring
form of highly impactful sillage, stability and
aromatic, oily longevity. Included with every
compositions, and full‑size purchase is a travel‑size
present two levels version (50ml) of the same scent—so
of complexity to you can always have your favourite
harness: in the fragrance by your side, no matter
case of narcissus where life takes you. 95
 Everything you
need to look your
best this month
By Cherry Mui

96
 STYLE | OBJECTS OF DESIRE

BY ANY
OTHER NAME
Flowers are back in full bloom.
Expanding on the persistent
rosettes trend, rose prints,
floral embellishments, three-
dimensional appliqués and
petal-shaped silhouettes
are available in varying
interpretations, per designers’
imaginations. From Loewe and
Balmain’s 3D floral sculptures
to a simple, playful print
at Kenzo, there’s a rose for
everyone. Clockwise,
from top left: Kenzo coat;
Magda Butrym bag;
ShuShu/Tong earring;
Erdem dress; Burberry heel.
Opposite page: Marni outfit
IMAGE PIOTR STOKŁOSA (MAGDA BUTRYM)

97
98
 LONG STORY
SHORT
Don’t get caught off-guard:
women’s shorts are reigning
supreme and they are serious.
After seasons of barely-there
mini shorts, designers are
incorporating a touch more
tailoring and pairing shorts
with blouses, blazers and coats
to make them office-chic for
summer. If that’s still a little
too daring, Bermuda shorts
are timeless for a reason.
Clockwise, from far left:
Prada outfit; Saint Laurent
bodysuit; Bally shorts; Dior
bag; Khaite belt. Opposite
page, clockwise from top left:
Chloé earrings; Tod’s shoe;
Max Mara outfit; Wardrobe
NYC blazer; Tom Ford shorts
IMAGE MONIC (PRADA); JOHAN SANTOS (KHAITE)

99
 THE SKY’S
THE LIMIT
Like a breath of refreshing
air, icy or sky blue is the
colour of the spring-summer
2024 runway. From delicate,
ethereal blouses at Givenchy
to sleek blue suiting by Stella
McCartney and leather coats
by Proenza Schouler, icy blue
is everywhere. Bonus: it serves
as a perfect complement to the
already trending cherry red.
Issey Miyake outfit. Opposite
page, clockwise from left:
Fendi bag; Ferragamo shoe;
Tove top; Givenchy earrings;
Chanel boot

100
IMAGE FABRIZIO MARTINEZ (FENDI)

101
 SHEER ENERGY
Recent spring-summer collections
showcased a sense of freedom and
ladylike edge through lashings of tulle,
mesh and chiffon. Whether in a skirt
or a dress, these fabrics transform
garments so they wrap around the
body like spun cotton candy and
bring a lightness to any outfit pairing.
As demonstrated at Louis Vuitton,
Givenchy, Chanel and more, you can
go creative with styling with layering,
or make your tulle the statement, as
seen at Ferragamo. Clockwise, from
below: Hermès bag; Alaïa skirt; Loro
Piana belt; Givenchy heel; Bottega
Veneta heel. Opposite page: Louis
Vuitton outfit

102
IMAGE GIOVANNI GIANNONI
 GRAB YOUR
LOVE LETTER
While larger-than-life
bags and “messy totes”
are gaining popularity,
the minimalists are here
for a slimline envelope
clutch. In a size that’s
big enough to carry your
edit of essentials, a neat
shape and a wide range of
materials to choose from,
a day-to-night envelope
will instantly elevate any
outfit. Saint Laurent outfit.
Opposite page, clockwise
from top left: Jil Sander
clutch; Alaïa clutch;
Gabriela Hearst clutch;
Bottega Veneta clutch;
Balenciaga clutch

104
105
IMAGE MATTIA ZOPPELLARO (FENDI)
SENSE OF UTILITY
Jumpsuits, a workwear staple,
have gone through many
moderations over the past few
seasons. Designers like Prada
and Zegna have been nspired
by their clean aesthetic and
utilitarian details, adding these
also to separates in that same,
recognisable style. Styling
options are plentiful too: Think
sneakers, belts, backpacks.
Clockwise, from top left:
Acne Studios bracelet; Zegna
shirt; Loro Piana belt; Emporio
Armani trousers. Opposite
page, clockwise from top
left: Fendi outfit; Louis
Vuitton bag; Ferragamo outfit;
Hermès sneaker

107
Tag Heuer Carrera
Chronograph in teal
green. Opposite
page: Hublot
MP‑10 Tourbillon
Weight Energy
System Titanium
Journey through
the history and
innovation behind
Cartier’s timepieces,
highlights from this
year’s LVMH Watch
Week, and a look at
what watch brands
are doing for a more
sustainable future
 The latest iteration of
the Audemars Piguet
Royal Oak is crafted
from 18-karat sand
gold, a new alloy by
the house, with a
chameleon-like ability
to shimmer between
shades of white and
pink gold, depending
on light. This 41mm
masterpiece is not
just about the unique
hue; it’s also about
resilience, with a
robust 65-hour power
reserve; and technical
prowess, with an
openworked dial
revealing the calibre
2972 featuring a flying
tourbillon. The sand
gold bracelet, with its
signature AP folding
clasp, adds to the
IMAGE DENIS HAYOUN

allure of the piece,

making it a special, Audemars
forward-thinking Piguet Royal
addition to the line-up Oak Selfwinding
of Audemars Piguet Flying Tourbillon
110 gold timepieces. Openworked 41mm
 WATCHES | TREND

Clockwise, from above:

Frederique Constant
Slimline Perpetual Calendar
Manufacture Designed by Peter
Speake; A Lange & Söhne
Lange 1 Tourbillon Perpetual
Calendar; H Moser & Cie
Streamliner Perpetual Calendar
Concept Smoked Salmon
THE SUN GOD reserve of up to 10 months.
Tag Heuer propels its iconic Sleek indices and polished
Aquaracer into a new era cases exude everyday
of innovation with the luxury, while the mother-
Aquaracer Professional of-pearl dials add shimmer.
200 Solargraph. Five With water resistance to
fresh 34mm models pay 200 metres, unidirectional
homage to the timepiece’s bezels and luminous hands,
adventurous legacy, these timepieces fuse high
powered by the calibre performance and grace.
TH50-01 that harnesses Tag Heuer Aquaracer Professional
solar energy for a power 200 Solargraph

DRAGONS AND set, white baguette- and

DIAMONDS hexagon-cut diamonds,
Celebrating the Year of totalling 12.41 carats. The
the Wooden Dragon, this dial acts as a stage for two
unique piece by Jacob & Co rose gold, hand-painted
beats with a JCAM32 hand- dragon sculptures, coiled
wound movement, featuring around Jacob-cut diamond
a flying, central, twin, triple- pearls representing hours
axis tourbillon. Adorning and minutes.
the 50mm 18-karat rose Jacob & Co Mystery Tourbillon
gold case are 192 invisibly Twin Dragons

SUAVE AND SAVVY

Zenith’s newest Chronomaster Sport
dazzles with an 18-karat rose gold case and
a bezel paved with diamonds, black spinels,
and grey and blue sapphires. The signature
El Primero tricolour scheme is eye-catching
too. The meteorite dial reveals a golden
pattern set with baguette-cut diamond
hour markers and chronograph counters in
shades of grey and blue. Inside beats the El
Primero 3600 movement with 1/10th second
precision and a 60-hour power reserve. This
limited-edition watch, along with a green
dial version, are exclusively available at
Zenith boutiques.

Zenith Chronomaster Sport

 WATCHES | PICKS

HONEY, I’M GOLD

The 40mm diameter Bulgari Octo Finissimo Automatic
watch features an extra-slim in-house calibre BVL 138
with self-winding platinum micro-rotor. The polished
18-karat yellow gold case houses the 2.23mm thin
movement with a 60-hour power reserve, while an open
caseback displays the movement. The crown features a
black ceramic insert, and a polished gold bracelet with
POP CULTURE a folding clasp completes the timepiece, which is water
Swatch presents the second edition of its unique square- resistant to 100 metres. The blue lacquered dial has a
shaped Bioceramic What If ? Collection, made of a sunburst finish with applied gold hour markers and
substance that offers enhanced durability and a lighter hands, along with a small seconds sub-dial.
environmental footprint compared to more commonly
used watchmaking materials. Each watch from the new Bulgari Octo Finissimo Automatic

collection, available in sky blue, lemon, mint and rose,

features a 33 mm x 33 mm case which allows for a distinct
side profile through its biosourced edge-to-edge glass.
Swatch Bioceramic What If? Collection

CAN’T FIGHT THE in 41.5mm platinum case,

MOONLIGHT the watch has a sleek
An astronomical moon profile with refined lugs
phase complication that seamlessly integrate
dominates the dial of the with the case middle. The
Arnold & Son Perpetual manual-winding A&S1512
Moon 41.5 Platinum calibre, developed and
Celestial Blue. Made assembled in-house,
of mother of pearl, the requires adjustment only
realistic moon is set against once every 122 years and
a grained, midnight-blue, provides a power reserve
PVD sky, punctuated of 90 hours. The watch is
by hand-painted limited to just 38 pieces.
constellations coated in Arnold & Son Perpetual Moon
Super-LumiNova. Encased 41.5 Platinum “Celestial Blue”
 SMALL TALK

JUSTIN REIS
The Global CEO of The
1916 Company shares his
insights on the evolving
landscape of watch collecting,
the emotional journey of
collectors, and the strategic
disruptions reshaping an
industry steeped in tradition

What is your most

treasured watch?
I grew up in Asia and went to
university in London. Watches
were unattainable for me then,
but my twin brother and I would
always talk about what we
would buy one day. On our 30th
birthday, we met for dinner and
had both unknowingly bought
each other the same Rolex 50th
anniversary “Kermit” watch.
That’s a very important one for
me and I wear it very frequently.

How has the industry changed

over the last decade?
People [used to be] less
educated about the
collectibility of timepieces.
Now, with the age of the
internet, access to information
has created this incredible,
outsized demand. It has
been building up gradually
and accelerated significantly
through Covid. Asia was always
a strong market, but the world primary dealers in America What does it take for trying to build a demand-
is catching on. The consumer too. When you add these an independent brand to driven model, with brands
who wouldn’t ordinarily spend together, we’re unique. get attention? more reticent to have inventory
US$25,000 on a watch now The brands that are able to stacked in windows. They’re
knows they’re not buying a How do you view the younger build a disciplined following, like also getting smarter. For
dead asset. generation of collectors? De Bethune or FP Journe, have example, the collaboration
The new generation has watchmakers who communicate between Audemars Piguet and
How is The 1916 Company been trained to collect their vision and where they’re Travis Scott: the timepiece is
disrupting the industry? sports memorabilia and looking to go over time. impossible to get, but it reached
The business started [by sneakers, with a full overload They’re also becoming hyper- a new audience and catalysed
focusing on pre-owned [of content] on YouTube personalised to the consumer: brand awareness.
pieces], which gave us the and blogs. I think that [kind you can leave a comment on
opportunity to grow many of collecting] culture is Instagram and the CEO can be Do you see watches as an
locations worldwide and going to make this industry responding directly. Imagine infallible investment?
acquire fantastic customers. for years to come. They wearing a watch and knowing We never market watches as
Our brand is built around the look to differentiate—not you have direct contact with the an investment; it [collecting]
customer journey and providing everybody wants an Apple watchmaker—they’ll stay top of is not led by numerical value.
access, so there isn’t that Watch, so the spotlight mind for future purchases. We quickly learnt there is a
frustrating moment when you on big brands is [shifting] much more important romantic
go into a retailer and aren’t able to smaller independents. What role does hype play in notion at stake for collectors.
to be accommodated. We have Previously [the latter] didn’t the market? We just make sure we’re an
brands that we invest in; we have the marketing dollars or In a certain category of information channel, talking
bring you to factories to meet distribution, but now they can watches, you have consumers about products we genuinely
the watchmaker; and we’re get a social media following looking for these flashpoints like, and we let people make
114 now one of the largest and sell directly to consumers. of releases. The industry is their own decisions.
 showcase horological
mastery. The
swivelling Mickey
Mouse arm
pointing
to minutes
and jumping
hour display
Genta’s signature
flair. Overseen
by Michel Navas
and Enrico Barbasini,
who worked extensively
with the legend himself,
Calibre GG-001 was GORGEOUS GIRL
engineered at Louis MB&F’s Legacy Machine Perpetual Evo boasts an
Vuitton’s La Fabrique integrated perpetual calendar that departs from the
du Temps. Traditional conventional module-based design, showcasing the
decorations like perlage genius of watchmaker Stephen McDonnell. The
adorn the movement. mechanical processor has a novel approach which treats
The fully enamelled dial each month as having 28 days, adding the extra days as
required years to master. needed, ensuring precision and eliminating the age-old
The minute repeater problem of date skips, while the movement’s safety
LEGACY REWRITTEN mechanism engineered mechanism protects the watch from damage during the
This white gold, octagonal fully in-house ensures date changeover. Hand-finished touches reminiscent
piece unique, a nod to uncompromising sound. of the 19th century give it an old-world aesthetic, yet the
Swiss clockmaker and This masterpiece brings to technology, particularly the shock-absorbing FlexRing
designer Gérald Genta, life complications Genta dampener, is exceedingly modern. Zirconium and
features polished and previously only sketched— titanium shape the watch, making it lightweight yet
brushed finishes, while a meaningful tribute to durable; the watch is available in a limited edition of only
a synchronised minute the maestro. 15 pieces per colour variant. The watch has a 72-hour
repeater, jumping hours Louis Vuitton La Fabrique du Temps
power reserve and is water resistant down to 80 metres.
and retrograde minutes Gérald Genta Mickey Mouse watch
MB&F Legacy Machine Perpetual Evo in blue

BACK TO THE FUTURE has no hands; instead,

Sleek yet complex, the the time is indicated via
new Hublot MP-10 rotating discs, while a
Tourbillon captivates, power reserve etched in
with its rounded angles red and green occupies
and a sapphire crystal that the centre. Suspended on
looks like it belongs in the an inclined aluminium
future; within the case lies tourbillon, seconds tick
a sophisticated movement off directly on the cage.
fusing form and function With its architectural
in perfect harmony. design and expressive
Hublot reinvents classic transparent movement, the
complications through MP-10 masterfully merges
disruptive mechanics that mechanics and aesthetics
are as visually arresting into a modern vision.
as they are practically
accomplished: the MP-10 Hublot MP-10 Tourbillon 115
 WATCHES | FEATURE

Design Archives
With the launch of its inaugural A Journey Through Time concept
in Singapore, Cartier takes visitors on an immersive voyage
through its illustrious history in timepieces By Annabel Tan

With a legacy spanning more than was inspired by Time Project, a about 900 are watches, representing
175 years, Cartier has continuously series of 12 short films directed by its distinct style. With pieces dating
redefined elegance and innovation Norwegian fashion photographer from 1860 to the late 20th century,
in watchmaking. Today, the maison Sølve Sundsbø, and featuring the growing collection continues
has a wide and highly sought‑after American actor and Cartier to be a major resource for art
range of watches, each known for ambassador Jake Gyllenhaal. historians as well as an enduring
its distinct style and characterised An immersive exploration of source of inspiration for the
by various shapes—think square, Cartier’s expertise in design and brand’s designers.
curved, rectangular and oval. aesthetics, A Journey Through “Cartier timepieces are known for
Whether it is a Santos or a Tank, Time afforded guests the exclusive their incredible shapes—instantly
Cartier watches have certainly opportunity to delve into the past, recognisable on the wrist,” Anne
made their marks on the horological present and future of Cartier’s Yitzhakov, Cartier’s managing
world with designs that have stood iconic timepieces. Among those director for Singapore, Malaysia
the test of time. on display were 23 rare creations and Asean, said. “With the
This January, Cartier opened from the Cartier Collection, such inaugural launch of A Journey
a window into its illustrious as a special Tank LC watch from Through Time in Singapore, we
watchmaking history through its 1925 and a unique Cheich watch showcase watchmaking creations
inaugural A Journey Through Time from 1983. that embody the maison’s [more
event, held in Singapore at The Cartier Collection comprises than] 170‑year history. Each of
Le Salon Cartier in Ion Orchard. more than 3,000 of the maison’s these precious creations imparts
116 The first of its kind, this experience most important creations, of which an effortless timelessness, inviting
 From top: A Journey
Through Time spotlighted
some of Cartier’s most
innovative shapes from the
Cartier Collection, including
(from left) a Crash from
1990, a Bulbous from 1973,
an Elongated JJC Tank from
1974, a Large Pebble from
1972, a Large Maxi Oval from
1969 and an Oblique from
1963; visitors to the event
also discovered watches
from Cartier’s current
collections. Opposite page:
Cartier converted its Le
Salon Cartier in Ion Orchard
for A Journey Through Time

guests to reflect on their relationship Over the years, this revolutionary Many of these unconventionally
with time.” timepiece has inspired new shaped watches came out of the
Visitors were taken through creations—and not just those in Swinging Sixties in the UK, after
A Journey Through Time by a the modern Santos de Cartier and fourth‑generation Cartier family
maison representative who shared Santos‑Dumont de Cartier lines. It is member Jean‑Jacques took over the
the stories and significance of the said to have also paved the way for maison’s London branch. Thanks to
watches showcased. The yellow the Tank, another Cartier icon. him and his team, audacious designs
and rose gold Santos from 1926 on Of course, there are more early such as the Crash, Pebble and Maxi
display, for instance, represents Cartier creations that continue to Oval were created and are still
Cartier’s beginnings in watchmaking. be expanded upon today, a notion highly sought‑after today, especially
The maison’s first wristwatch that Louis Cartier, grandson of the due to their limited production.
for men, the Santos—initially maison’s founder, is said to have More recent creations from
created in 1904 specially for often referred to as a “mother idea”. the current collections were
Brazilian aviation pioneer Alberto Like the Santos, these are ideas also on show. These are but a
Santos‑Dumont, who wanted to strong and unique enough to allow few examples of how Cartier has
tell the time while manning the for many variations in the future. pushed the boundaries of its classic
controls of his aircraft—was put Other highlights were timepieces creations and “mother ideas” while
in regular production in 1911 and, with innovative shapes that Cartier remaining consistent in certain
IMAGES CARTIER

with its square shape, curved has created over the years and lent to design elements, demonstrating
corners and exposed screws, forever its style, such as a Large Maxi Oval the watches’ enduring appeal
lay the roots of the Cartier style. from 1969 and an Oblique from 1963. and versatility. 117
 WATCHES | FEATURE

Green is the
New Black
Green has been a popular colour
in the world of watches in recent years,
and judging from the timepieces in
all shades of the colour launched at
the fifth edition of LVMH Watch Week
in Miami early this year, the trend is
here to stay By Annabel Tan

BULGARI case—either a 33 mm that is thinner

In honour of the 10th anniversary than its predecessors, or the daintier
of the Lucea, Bulgari has refreshed 28 mm—housing a self‑winding
the collection with a refined case movement with a 42‑hour power
and bracelet design, along with reserve now comes with a slimmer
sumptuous dials that further bezel. The highlight, though,
express the Roman brand’s expert are the mineral dials, including a
craftsmanship and savoir faire. striking green one made of upcycled
Made in steel, or rose gold and malachite fragments selected for their
steel, the bracelet features softer vibrancy and grain, before they are
118 and rounder V‑links, while the meticulously cut and hand‑assembled.
 TAG HEUER
This year, Tag Heuer put a new
spin on the Carrera Chronograph
by combining its innovative
Clockwise, from
left: Zenith
“Glassbox” domed sapphire
Chronomaster crystal glass introduced in 2023
Original Triple
Calendar Boutique
with the distinctive vintage mono
Edition; the new subdial configuration of its iconic
Tag Heuer Carrera Carrera 45 Dato. Dressed in
Chronograph in
teal green; Hublot attractive monochrome shades of
Big Bang Unico what the brand calls “teal green”,
Green Saxem.
Opposite page, the new Tag Heuer Carrera
from top: Bulgari Chronograph displays the date at
ambassador
Anne Hathaway 9 o’clock and a chronograph counter
wearing the Bulgari at 3 o’clock. The 39 mm steel case
Lucea in steel and
rose gold with a houses the self‑winding calibre
malachite dial; TH20‑07 and comes with a black
Bulgari Lucea in
steel and rose gold alligator leather strap.
with a malachite
dial, set with
diamonds and a
synthetic sapphire

ZENITH original El Primero Reference

When Zenith’s El Primero was A386 from 1969. The watch comes
first conceived, the idea was for with three dial variations, among
the design to accommodate the which is a sunburst dial in olive
triple calendar and moonphase green, with golden applied markers
functions. However, given the and hands (the Chronomaster
success of the core chronograph Original Triple Calendar Boutique
version, the concept was sidelined. Edition). Available only at Zenith’s
Now, the brand has finally brought physical and online boutiques, this
that prototype to life with its new green version comes with either
Chronomaster Original Triple a calfskin strap in a matching hue
Calendar, which has a steel or a three‑link steel bracelet with
38 mm case based on the exact the same alternating brushed and
blueprint and proportions of the polished finishes as the case.

HUBLOT
Hublot adds another neon colour
to its Saxem line‑up with the Big
Bang Unico Green Saxem. Boasting
a case in luminous green Saxem—an
ultra‑resistant material that is an
alloy of aluminium oxide, the basic
component of sapphire, and rare
IMAGES BULGARI (HATHAWAY); ZENITH; TAG HEUER; HUBLOT

earth elements—and a rubber strap

in the same eye‑catching hue, the
42 mm watch features the HUB1280
Unico manufacture self‑winding
chronograph flyback movement,
which is visible through the clear
sapphire crystal caseback. Other
distinctive features include the
signature Unico column wheel
at 6 o’clock, and the entirely
visible date disc that is encircling
the movement. 119
 WATCHES | FEATURE

A Close Watch
Luxury watch brands are doing more for the planet by
rethinking their manufacturing and supply chains, as well
as increasing their efforts towards sustainability outside of
the watchmaking industry By Annabel Tan
In the year 2024, sustainability is times faster than that of any other
no longer just a buzzword in the generations until 2030, making up a
luxury industry; it has become third of the market.
a prerequisite for purchase for The 2023 edition of this study
consumers, especially among the further posits that by 2030, these
biggest drivers of global luxury sales younger generations—from Gen Y
growth: Gen Y (aka the millennials), through to Gen Alpha—will become
Gen Z and Gen Alpha (those born the biggest buyers of luxury by far,
between 2010 and 2024). representing nearly 85 per cent of
A 2022 study, published by global purchases. The study also
global management consulting firm notes that Gen Z, in particular, is
Bain & Company and Fondazione positioned at the forefront of social
Altagamma, the trade association of and cultural change, inspiring other
Italian luxury goods manufacturers, generations’ value systems, with a
found that Gen Y and Gen Z strong desire for lived experiences
accounted for all of the market’s and a quest for meaning.
growth in 2022. It also projected For these younger generations,
that the spending of Gen Z and sustainability holds great
120 Gen Alpha is set to grow some three importance—not only in luxury
 The recycling
process of making
Chopard’s Lucent
Steel. Opposite
page, from
top: Breitling
supports SUGi in
its Athenian Oak
consumption, but also in all areas Revival project
for large‑scale
of their lives. They are reshaping oak restoration in
traditional notions of luxury by Athens, Greece,
in response to
redefining what it means to be truly the loss of forests
valuable and aspirational. While following years of
intermittent fires in
craftsmanship and exclusivity remain the city; Breitling’s
important, these generations place Super Chronomat
Automatic 38
equal—if not greater—emphasis Origins allows
on sustainability, authenticity and traceability of
the watch’s gold
social impact. and diamonds
In the world of luxury watches,
initiatives aimed at reducing
environmental impact and
supporting sustainable practices
have become central to a brand’s
identity and ethos. These efforts
typically come in the form of
introducing more eco‑friendly
materials to the products and
packaging, as well as supporting
initiatives and engaging in
partnerships outside of the
watchmaking industry that work
towards a more sustainable planet,
such as ocean conservation.
In 2019, Chopard, a venerable
name in luxury watchmaking,
introduced Lucent Steel, a
sustainable alloy crafted from
recycled steel, with the aim of For some brands, their has also been contributing to a more
reducing its environmental footprint environmental impact significantly sustainable and environmentally
by incorporating recycled materials extends beyond watchmaking. conscious future through the
into its manufacturing processes. Breitling, for example, has been Rolex Awards for Enterprise.
Last year, the brand announced its working with SUGi, an urban Since 1976, the programme has
commitment to use Lucent Steel rewilding non‑profit organisation, supported projects that protect
made with at least 80 per cent since 2020 and together, they have endangered species, preserve vital
recycled steel for all its steel watches planted 18,824 trees across eight ecosystems and promote sustainable
by end‑2023, further aiming to countries, as well as restored 295 development. The tangible results
increase the recycling rate to a native plant species. so far include the protection of 43
minimum of 90 per cent by 2025. Similarly, as part of its endangered species, the planting of
As transparency should come commitment to ocean conservation, 23 million trees and the preservation
hand in hand with materials that Blancpain embarked on the Deep of vast expanses of the Amazon
claim to be eco‑friendly, Breitling Reefs of the Far East expedition in rainforest—a testament to Rolex’s
launched its first traceable watch, 2022. This collaboration with the commitment to environmental
the Super Chronomat Automatic French non‑profit organisation conservation and social progress.
38 Origins, in 2022. The timepiece Underwater Scientific Exploration While embracing sustainability
comes with a blockchain‑backed for Education and Indonesia’s certainly puts luxury watch brands
non‑fungible token that provides University of Pattimura aims to in a better position to resonate more
information about the origins of explore and document uncharted deeply with the younger generations
its precious materials, such as the marine ecosystems, in the hopes and future‑proof their businesses
gold and diamonds, and the entire of finding new species. Doing by appealing to a growing
IMAGES BREITLING; CHOPARD

chain of custody. In 2023, Breitling so would also encourage greater segment of the market that values
followed up with the creation of protection of the region, these dive purpose‑driven consumption, the
its Origins Label, which identifies sites in Indonesia and their rich main aim should still be for the
watches from the brand that are marine biodiversity. benefit of a better, healthier planet—
made with precious materials that One of the foremost manufactures an objective that should be shared
are traceable to source. in the luxury watch industry, Rolex by all who inhabit it. 121
Graff Laurence
Graff Signature
collection.
Opposite page:
Louis Vuitton Deep
Time Chapter II
Symbiosis necklace
Van Cleef & Arpels
reveals a new
space with a
hidden secret,
Milamore’s CEO
and creative
director discusses
the brand’s DNA,
and cool cuffs
to level up
your wrist game
 Versatile jewellery is
everything. Pieces that
can be taken apart
and used for different
purposes not only
capture the essence
of contemporary
fashion but also
provide the wearer
with a canvas for
personal expression.
This transformative
quality is what
makes the Un Air de
Chaumet Collection so
impactful. We love the
Plumes d’Or parure,
a transformable
tiara crafted from
platinum, white
and rose gold that
features a 2.30-carat
pear-shaped diamond,
accompanied by three
brilliant-cut diamonds
weighing 0.41, 0.33
and 0.33 carats.
This exquisite piece
can be transformed Chaumet Plumes
into brooches, a d’Or parure from the
hair ornament and Un Air de Chaumet
124 ear cuffs. capsule collection
 JEWELLERY | TREND

Hands up if you’re ready to

embrace these stylish cuffs

Clockwise, from top:

Buccellati Macri Giglio
cuff bracelet; Hèrmes Cuff
in box calfskin and gold;
Tiffany & Co Elsa Peretti
Bone cuff in 18-karat yellow
gold; Ashaha Bangle Dita
in white gold and set
with diamonds
 of gold within the country, so to us [all]. There isn’t a person
there’s no need to outsource or who hasn’t gone through
import from abroad. As an island something hard or who hasn’t
nation, we’ve always tried to made mistakes. So I took that
source domestically. There’s a philosophy and created the
lab in Japan that collects gold, Kintsugi collection. The idea
recycles it, and then sells it is that the wearer is being
within the country. Regarding the mended with jewellery. Because
gold that we use for Milamore, of that, I like to envision the
our atelier primarily sources wearer when making a piece, as
recycled gold from a company they are a big part of my design
called Japan Material which and creation too.
has obtained certifications for
environmental issues and raw As the fashion and jewellery
material procurement. industries are often criticised
for their environmental impact,
Are there any other sustainable what message would you
certifications or standards like to convey to consumers
that Milamore adheres to about the importance of
or strives to achieve in its supporting sustainable
production processes? brands like Milamore?
We import diamonds that have I recognise the environmental
been polished from rough stones concerns in our industry and
strictly adhering to the Kimberley believe in supporting small
Process system, to prevent the businesses as a step towards
mixing of conflict diamonds. sustainability. Small businesses
Given that multiple companies often operate more sustainably
are involved before these than large corporations, using
materials reach our atelier, it is resources more efficiently and
challenging to include stamps having a smaller environmental
to prove this, in the interest of footprint. As an entrepreneur,
full transparency. I understand the importance
As a small, independent of every dollar and the impact
company, we strive to maintain it can have. By supporting
responsible practices. However, small businesses, I believe
it is difficult for us to scrutinise we’re contributing to a more
the entire process, a challenge sustainable economic model,
I believe is also true for large where resources are used more
corporations. Moreover, such judiciously, and the support
thorough vetting would require goes directly to individuals and
significant resources, both their communities. This aligns
financially and physically. with my aspiration to blend
SMALL TALK traditional heritage with modern

GEORGE ROOT
Have you faced sustainability practices in
challenges in maintaining my own brand.
sustainable practices in
As Milamore jewellery’s CEO and creative director inaugurates jewellery production? What are your plans for
My answer is no. This practice growing Milamore while staying
the brand at Lane Crawford in Hong Kong, he discusses the is inherent to Japanese true to your heritage-focused
brand’s deep-seated Japanese origins and his belief in the craftsmanship, so it’s actually mission and community
transformative and healing power of jewellery just normal for us. And to be fully of artisans?
transparent, sustainability is not I am committed to continuing
What originally drew you to How would you describe really our message—not because my education about Japanese
Japanese culture and inspired the Milamore aesthetic and it isn’t important, but because we culture. Ever since I designed
you to honour it through your what key elements define the have other stories to tell and it’s the Kintsugi collection, I’ve been
jewellery designs? brand’s DNA? a standard practice for us. delving deeper into Japanese
I grew up in Japan but moved to The combination of polished and history and exploring other art
New York in 2014. After being matt finishes in my designs is a Can you explain the Japanese forms such as calligraphy and
away from Japan for some time, subtle yet a strong detail. This is concepts of wabi-sabi and ikebana. The authenticity and
I have rediscovered and come evident throughout my collection. kintsugi and how they influence deep presence of Milamore stem
to appreciate Japanese culture The pairing of yellow gold with your design philosophy? from our thorough understanding
even more. It’s not just about white gold also defines my The teaching of wabi-sabi of history, and we continue to
the aesthetic—what I love the aesthetic, which I believe adds is accepting and embraces learn and apply this knowledge to
most is the philosophy behind dimension to personal styling. imperfection. That can apply our design and communication.
Japanese beauty.
Can you tell us more about your
What led you to use of 18-karat recycled gold in
founding Milamore? your jewellery?
I was approached by my co- The majority of the gold we use
founder Azusa Yamato to start a
jewellery business in 2018. I am a
self-taught creative director, with
a background in communications;
my strength lies in creating a
brand’s story and narrative.
Since [Yamato’s] family business
involves jewellery production
in Japan, I wanted to create a
brand that showcases Japanese
craftsmanship in jewellery—
something we are not yet known
for. I saw this as an opportunity to
126 bring recognition to my culture.
 JEWELLERY | PICKS

GODDESS GALADRIEL
Lord of the Rings star Morfydd Clark ruled the red carpet
with her choice of accessories from Chopard’s exquisite
collections at the Bafta Film Awards in London this
February. She wore earrings from the Haute Joaillerie
line, which boasted 3.14 carats of pear-shaped brilliant-cut
diamonds along with 1.13 carats of additional diamonds, all
IMAGE JOHN PHILLIPS/GETTY IMAGES (CLARK)

set in 18-karat white gold. Complementing the earrings, she

chose a ring from the house’s Happy Diamonds collection,
which featured sparkling diamonds embedded in 18-karat
white gold. Her ensemble was completed with a stunning
ring from the L’Heure Du Diamant collection, showcasing
an impressive 6.15 carats of emerald-cut diamonds, also set
in 18-karat white gold.

Chopard Haute Joaillerie

CROWN JEWEL collaborated with Harry

The Harry Winston Winston during the 1960s.
Shinde Diamond Flower Winston once referred to
Earrings have a total Shinde as “the jewel behind
diamond weight close the jewel”, highlighting the
to 15.66 carats arranged transformative nature of
within a platinum the man’s designs, which
setting. These chandelier elevated ordinary items
earrings are named in to the status of bejewelled
honour of Ambaji Shinde, masterpieces and continue
a renowned Indian to be sought after today.
designer who worked in Harry Winston Shinde Briolette
New York for decades and Diamond Flower Earrings

127
 STYLE STATEMENT
FALLING FOR FUNGI A range of unisex bangles these versatile bangles are
The latest addition to in pink, white, or yellow meant to be worn alone
Louis Vuitton’s high jewellery gold has joined Graff ’s or stacked. In addition to
collection is Symbiosis, an Laurence Graff Signature the minimalist faceted
exploration of early terrestrial collection featuring sleek versions, the bangles are
life and organic ecosystems. and architectural designs also available in dazzling
The series draws inspiration from inspired by the facets of diamond-set versions.
the complex networks of fungi and diamonds. Like the other Graff Laurence Graff Signature
mycelium, as envisaged by creative creations in the collection, collection
director Francesca Amfitheatrof.
Featuring spinels from Vietnam
and Tanzania, a multistrand necklace
presents clusters of differently shaped
and arranged spinels to evoke naturally
occurring plant forms. This piece is
adorned with bombé pavé diamonds
and LV Monogram Star-cut diamonds.
It took 1,381 hours to create this
necklace, which includes a hidden
mushroom motif for the wearer’s eyes
only. Complementary earrings and
rings are also available.
Louis Vuitton Symbiosis from the Deep Time ll
High Jewellery collection

SEA STONE
Aquamarines emerge as the focal point among
diamonds in the Emozioni High Jewelry
collection by Damiani. These gemstones,
reminiscent of the sea, offer a touch of calm
elegance. The collection encompasses a
ring featuring a 23.82-carat emerald-cut
aquamarine, surrounded by diamonds;
IMAGE LAZIZ HAMANI (LOUIS VUITTON)

earrings with 20.75 carats of aquamarines; and

a transformable necklace boasting a 27.69-carat
aquamarine, which can be worn as a brooch.
Damiani Emozioni High Jewellery collection
BREAK OF DAWN
This cleverly designed of pink chalcedony, orange
bracelet by Cartier moonstone, palmeira
follows the path of a citrine, intense fire opal,
sunrise, charting the spessartite garnet, pink
progression of light with and yellow sapphires, and
its unique structure. eventually culminating in
Inspired by Jeanne an orange rutilated quartz
Toussaint’s appreciation for at the top. Diamond-paved
unconventional gemstones, crescents and golden prongs
it features a spectrum of hold the gem discs in place.
hues, graduating in colour Cartier Libre Polymorph collection
through an arrangement bracelet

AHEAD OF THE CURVE

Bulgari brand ambassador and K-pop star Lisa stars in
the Roman jeweller’s latest campaign for its new B.zero1
creations. The statement jewel now comes in novel
interpretations including designs with thinner bands
and creations set with elegant pavé diamonds for a more
precious touch.
Bulgari B.zero1 collection

MARKING A MILESTONE
Since it was first created in 2004, Boucheron’s Quatre
collection has made a statement with its distinctive design
that combines various materials and four different codes
of the maison: the Double Godron, an architectural design
of raised bands reminiscent of fluting; Clou de Paris, an
embossed pattern of small pyramid-like squares; a row
of diamonds; and a grosgrain motif. For the Quatre’s
20th anniversary this year, Boucheron has introduced
new designs that retain the identity of the original
aesthetic while presenting a fresh take, including a
striking Quatre Classique necklace made up of around
50 individually crafted Quatre rings that appear to be strung
together around the collar.
Boucheron Quatre Classique necklace
 JEWELLERY | FEATURE

Hidden
Haven
W
To uncover Van Cleef ithin the lush, idyllic out of the ordinary—an intimate
& Arpels’s latest secrets, grounds of the iconic boutique offering the signature
venture into the jeweller’s Raffles Singapore, a collections of Van Cleef & Arpels.
hidden treasure trove However, a secret door that
newly opened space at waits to be discovered. Since at first glance looks like a wall
Raffles Singapore, where January this year, French jewellery panel opens into a one‑of‑a‑kind
a unique experience awaits house Van Cleef & Arpels has taken exhibition space dressed in soft
behind a hidden door over an inconspicuous corner neutral‑and‑gold flora‑themed
of the luxury hotel’s shopping scenography by French
By Annabel Tan
arcade, where it has established a designer and interior architect
brand‑new boutique and exhibition Jean Baptiste Auvray.
concept called Les Jardins Secrets The choice of flowers and nature
by Van Cleef & Arpels. as inspiration for the exhibition
The main entrance leads into a space draws from Singapore’s
130 space that appears to be nothing vision of a garden city, which it is
 supported by Van Cleef & Arpels.
“In terms of distribution in
Singapore, we’ve been happily
present in the malls for some
years, which is a nice way to
welcome visitors, introduce the
brand and drive traffic,” says
Nicolas Bos, president and CEO
of Van Cleef & Arpels. “We do have
some more private areas in these
boutiques, but overall, it’s still very
Clockwise, from much commercial.”
left: The Precious
Nature by Van Cleef He adds that while the maison
& Arpels exhibition organises special events such as
at Les Jardins
Secrets by Van high jewellery presentations in
Cleef & Arpels at Singapore, it was still missing
Raffles Singapore;
Van Cleef & Arpels’s something more permanent and
Two Flowers brooch intimate. “We wanted a space
from 1937, in
platinum and yellow that was less busy and to create
gold set with rubies a less commercial experience;
and diamonds;
the brand’s Rose somewhere we could present the
de Noël clip from patrimony of the house [and] small
1999, in yellow
gold and wood set
exhibitions, organise lectures
with diamonds with some experts from L’Ecole,
School of Jewelry Arts, or host an
known as around the world, for intimate dinner,” he says.
the abundant greenery integrated The exhibition space in
into a clean environment. Les Jardins Secrets by Van Cleef
This makes Les Jardins Secrets & Arpels was thus born. “[It’s]
unique and a global first for the very secret by nature, even from
maison. The discreet exhibition the small main entrance, so
space is intended both for visitors we’ve managed to create multiple
to journey across the maison’s elements of surprise, without being
creative history through a showcase overwhelming or trying to express
IMAGES VAN CLEEF & ARPELS

of its patrimonial pieces, and for the power of the brand, because
the house to share its core values that’s not what we do. It’s more of
of creation transmission and a discovery path, where you don’t
education, through events and know what you’re going to find
exhibitions such as those by L’Ecole, behind that first door and especially
School of Jewelry Arts, which is behind the second door. So it’s 131
 more about creating an intimate, collectors as well as archival are made from wood.
enjoyable moment,” says Bos. “In documents. Nearly half of the Jewellery aside, this exhibition
Singapore and around the region, jewellery on display are Mystery Set is a rare chance to see some of
we have a lot of clients, collectors, pieces, which are made using the the maison’s unique and precious
friends, experts and other people we maison’s proprietary technique of objects from the 1940s, including
interact with that we want to host mounting precious stones in a way the Daisy powder case and
in this more specific manner. That’s that eschews the visible prongs of lighter, both made in platinum
really the goal of this project.” traditional stone‑setting, allowing and yellow gold, and decorated
As to whether Les Jardins Secrets the gems to take centre stage. with diamonds.
by Van Cleef & Arpels will make Some highlights include the
its way to other markets, Bos is 1937 Two Flowers brooch from
certain that if it does, it will not the patrimony collection, made
be an exact replication. “We don’t in platinum and yellow gold,
really want to take a systematic and Mystery Set with rubies and
approach. Of course, we remain diamonds. There are also pieces
consistent in the identity of the from the Rose de Noël collection,
maison and the stories we want centred on Christmas roses, that
to tell, but it’s also very cultural; it
depends on the local context, the
local traditions and our own history
in a certain city,” he explains. “So it
doesn’t necessarily mean that we’re
going to create a space like that
somewhere else. We might take the
same spirit and translate that into a
different experience.”
Currently, visitors to Les Jardins
Secrets by Van Cleef & Arpels can
discover the Precious Nature by Van From left: The Van
Cleef & Arpels exhibition, which Cleef & Arpels Daisy
powder case from 1948,
officially opened to the public on in platinum and yellow
February 1 and will be open daily gold set with diamonds;
the brand’s Balinese
until June 16. It is a fitting debut dancer clip from 1969,
exhibition for the space, given the in yellow and white
gold set with rubies,
design of the interiors as well as the pearls and diamonds.
fact that nature has been a main Opposite page, from
top: The brand’s
source of inspiration for the maison Everest necklace from
since its beginnings. 1981, in platinum and
The intimate showcase features yellow gold Mystery
Set with sapphires
15 creations from the brand’s and diamonds; the
patrimonial collection, alongside boutique area of
Les Jardins Secrets by
seven loaned pieces from private Van Cleef & Arpels

132
“We wanted a space [where]
we could present the
patrimony of the house”
— NICOLAS BOS CEO of Van Cleef & Arpels

133
Kishore Mahbubani.
Opposite page:
Chef Matthew
Orlando in the
garden of AIR
 We speak to notable
Singapore diplomat
Kishore Mahbubani,
examine the impact
of BoardAgender’s
mentoring
PHOTOGRAPHY AUN KOH (MAHBUBANI) IMAGE AIR (AIR)

programme, and
explore sustainability
shifts in Singapore’s
F&B scene
 FEATURES | PROFILE

T H E

T A K E R
Veteran diplomat and academic Kishore Mahbubani opens
up about his upcoming memoir, taking risks, growing up
poor, and the misconception that he is pro‑China
Story and photography by Aun Koh

Kishore Mahbubani, one of Singapore’s most notable earning $150 a month, which was a lot of money for us.
diplomats, academics and thought leaders, would like Rent back then was $17 a month. After a few months
to dispel several misconceptions about him, chief of working as a salesman, I got a letter inviting me to
among which is that he achieved what he has in part go for an interview for the President’s Scholarship.
due to a privileged upbringing, and secondly, that he And then I got the President’s Scholarship. And it was
is a China apologist. going to give me $250 a month. It was more money than
Regarding the first, the reality is that his early I’d make being a salesman, so my mother said, ‘You go
life is far from the assumption that many might have to university.’ And that’s how I ended up in university,
about this worldly, sophisticated and respected completely by accident. If I hadn’t received the
authority on geopolitics. “Most people assume that scholarship, I’d never have gone to university.”
I had a comfortable middle‑class upbringing, with Bonded to the government because of the scholarship,
well‑educated parents who obviously prepared me to Mahbubani joined Singapore’s Ministry of Foreign
go to university, but I had the exact opposite experience. Affairs, where he served for more than three decades.
I came from a broken home. My father went to jail. It was a service marked by significant postings and
We struggled to make ends meet,” he shares over a leadership roles, including as Singapore’s ambassador
coffee in his home at Katong. “In fact, at the age of six to the United Nations (UN), where he served as
months, the doctors told my mother, ‘Your son is gone’ president of the UN Security Council, and as permanent
because I had a severe case of diarrhoea, and then secretary of the Ministry. His tenure in diplomacy
when I was six years old, I was put on a special feeding was recognised by the Singapore Government with
programme in school because I was undernourished. the Public Administration Medal (Gold) in 1998,
And I never even dreamt or thought of going to highlighting his exceptional contributions.
university because none of my relatives and none of Mahbubani transitioned to academia in 2004, taking
my neighbours went to university.” on the role of founding dean of the Lee Kuan Yew School
When he finished high school, Mahbubani says, of Public Policy at the National University of Singapore,
“my mother sent me to work as a textile salesman, shaping it into one of the top public policy schools in the 137
 world. His academic career was further distinguished by to venturing abroad. He saw first‑hand when he was
his election as an honorary international member of the permanent secretary at the Ministry of Foreign Affairs
American Academy of Arts and Sciences. how even a few years overseas can transform people.
In addition to his diplomatic and academic “I’d recruit these young officers and they’d be very
achievements, Mahbubani is a prolific author, having shy, very withdrawn, like typical Singaporeans. You
written nine books and helping to edit an additional know, they would say little, dress in a very understated
two. His most critically acclaimed works have touched fashion, and try to disappear into the woodwork.
on observations, analyses and opinions on the political But then we would send them overseas and when they
situations and futures in Singapore, Asean and China, came back after three years, they’d be completely
and also on the bilateral relations between the US and transformed. They’d walk more confidently and speak
China, as well as Asia and the West as a whole. For an more confidently.”
example of how popular his books are: his last one, Mahbubani continues: “There are so many
The Asian 21st Century, which launched as a book one opportunities for young Singaporeans, if they would only
could download for free, chalked up more
than 130,000 downloads in the first four
weeks of its release—far exceeding the
publisher’s expected total figure of 20,000.
To date, his collection of essays on how Asia
“You need a little bit
of insanity to do great
is poised to navigate the next century has
tallied more than 3 million downloads from
over 160 countries.

things. You cannot

His newest book is scheduled for
publication this August and while it
does, as expected, delve into geopolitics

change anything
and public policy, it is both his most
divergent and personal work yet. And
that is because Living the Asian Century

without taking risks”

is a memoir—and appropriately subtitled
An Undiplomatic Memoir. The author
shares: “In most of my writings on
geopolitical issues, the critical thing has been
to make sure I grasped the main geopolitical
trends correctly and then express them in a way that try to get to know their Southeast Asian neighbourhood
people understand, and also [that] people believe that better. Many Singaporeans don’t know how well the
they’re getting some new insights, right? But when you Asean region has done. In the year 2000, [Japan’s
write about personal stuff, you’re writing about your economy], which was the second‑largest in the world,
own life story. It’s a very different genre of writing.” was eight times bigger than [Asean’s]. Today, [it’s only]
The memoir traces Mahbubani’s journey from a very about one‑and‑a‑half times bigger. By 2030, [Asean’s
underprivileged childhood to adulthood; his interactions economy is projected to be] bigger than [Japan’s]. That’s
with influential figures such as Singapore’s founding a tremendous transformation around the region. And
prime minister Lee Kuan Yew and former deputy prime there are incredible opportunities, but of course, you
minister Goh Keng Swee; and his observations on the have to—and this is what my memoirs try to describe—be
geopolitical contest between the US and China, offering willing to take risks.”
invaluable insights into the dynamics that shape our Almost any discussion with Mahbubani will
world. It is a surprisingly frank and vulnerable work inevitably lead to his thoughts on China. He has
that charts our nation’s history alongside the author’s over the past few decades become one of the leading
personal successes and challenges. voices in studying, and perhaps promoting, China’s
One of the underlying themes discussed is the need to development and foreign policy. But he contends: “One
take risks. Mahbubani loves to say that “you need a little of the most common misconceptions about me, which
bit of insanity to do great things”. He tells us: “I copied is incredibly deeply entrenched, is that I’m pro‑China
that from Dr Goh Keng Swee. As I describe in my and anti‑American. But when I go to the US and speak
memoirs, I got quite close to him. He liked to say that about China, what I’m telling the Americans is that you
reasonable people don’t change the world, unreasonable guys are making a huge mistake. You’re underestimating
people do. I was building on that insight. You cannot China. You should overestimate China. If I were an
change anything without taking risks.” enemy of the US, why should I try to wake them up?
Risk‑taking is something that he hopes more young Larry Summers, the former president of Harvard
138 Singaporeans would embrace, especially when it comes [University] and former [US] treasury secretary, was
asked in January 2021 [about]
the three best books [he]
read in 2020. He said, ‘First
is Obama’s memoirs. Obama
was my boss.’ The second
was by Nobel laureate
Angus Deaton. And the
third is (Mahbubani’s) Has
China Won?. Why would
a senior American praise
my book unless he realises
that this book is intended to
help Americans?”
The paradox of his “role”,
as Mahbubani likes to call it,
is that he feels a responsibility
to help the West understand
Asia as it has entered the
21st century. But in the
same way that no one wants
to be told they are gaining
weight, some audiences just
do not want to accept what
may be true. “There has got
to be a change in mindset,” he
tells us. “The West needs
to realise that the 200 years
of Western domination of
world history, from 1820 or
so to 2020, was an aberration
and that the return of Asia
is a perfectly natural thing
because from the year one
to 1820, the two largest
economies were those of
China and India.”
But changing minds can
be difficult. Mahbubani
continues: “I think it’s very difficult for the leading arguably very successful career. But being willing to be
Western minds, especially the Anglo‑Saxon minds, outspoken will always attract criticism.
to accept that Asians can be equal to them, because Mahbubani’s ex‑boss, Singapore’s former foreign
they’re so used to looking at the world from a position minister George Yeo, who has read an early release
of superiority. Sometimes, they’re very honest about it. of the memoir, contributed these thoughts: “Kishore
Josep Borrell [Fontelles], who runs [the] foreign policy freely admits that he had detractors, both in Singapore
of the [European Union], gave a speech in 2022 in which and outside, and tries to understand their criticisms
he said Europe is a garden and the rest of the world is a of him. One can sense the pain he must have felt
jungle. I mean, I’m glad he said it; he sees us Asians as writing those paragraphs. As the founding dean,
living in a jungle, maybe climbing trees or whatever. But Kishore was hugely responsible for the exceptional
he doesn’t realise that actually, the gardens in Asia today success of the Lee Kuan Yew School of Public Policy.
are in some ways better than the gardens in Europe or Yet, even here, he faced many criticisms. Happily,
even in the US.” he emerged stronger and more energised after each
His willingness to be outspoken, Mahbubani of life’s challenges.
understands, is both a necessity—adopting the age‑old “Kishore’s memoir is not only about foreign affairs;
mantra, “It’s a tough job, but somebody’s gotta do it is also about an individual life in the Singapore
it”—and a risk. And as established, he sees risks, and the story that would not be put down by misfortune or
challenges they bring, as worth the effort because the hardship. His story will inspire a younger generation
risks he took as a young man helped lay the map for his of Singaporeans.” 139
 FEATURES | SPOTLIGHT

ON
Through its mentorship programme, BoardAgender, an
initiative of the Singapore Council of Women’s Organisations,
leads the charge in cultivating women’s leadership for a more
inclusive corporate landscape. Tatler Singapore examines how
it aims to reshape boardroom dynamics By Nafeesa Saini

T
he discussion on female
representation in
Singapore’s boardrooms has
rapidly gained momentum
in recent years. As at June 2023, only
22.7 per cent of board positions in
Singapore’s top 100 listed companies
were held by women, according to
data from the Council for Board
Diversity. This figure is modest as
compared to global leaders such
as France, where women make
up nearly 44 per cent of board
members, with countries such
as Italy and Australia following
closely behind, as reported by data
intelligence leader Altrata in its
Global Gender Diversity 2023 report.
IMAGES BOARDAGENDER; FERNN LIM; NICK WINSOR; OOI HUEY TYNG

Singapore aims to reach 30 per

cent female board representation
by end‑2030. At the 5th anniversary equal to those by men … Being Ministry of Social and Family
event and forum of the Council deliberate in tapping the widest pool Development, aims to boost female
for Board Diversity last August, of candidates possible enhances representation in senior leadership
former Singapore president the odds of an organisation finding positions and boardrooms across
Halimah Yacob called attention to the best qualified and suitable Singapore. Its strategy is to create
the critical role of board gender leaders to contribute to their future a coalition of advocates committed
diversity in organisational success. strategy,” she said. to reducing the gender disparity in
“Women’s participation on boards BoardAgender, a non‑profit leadership. Its flagship initiative, the
is a barometer of the extent our organisation established in 2011 Mentoring Programme for Aspiring
society values the contributions under the auspices of the Singapore Women Directors, prepares
of women and whether these Council of Women’s Organisations emerging female directors for
140 contributions are viewed as being and supported by Singapore’s boardroom success by connecting
them with veteran directors
for mentorship.
Limited to 10 participants per
intake to ensure individualised
six‑month journeys, the programme,
which launched in 2021, arms women
with the critical competencies,
insights and support necessary
for impactful board participation.
The curriculum goes beyond that
of traditional mentorship models,
offering comprehensive coaching
and targeted workshops covering
essential areas such as effective
non‑profit board involvement and
personal branding.
Representing the impact of its
mission, BoardAgender has engaged
more than 475 women through its
initiatives to date, with 19 alumnae
from the first two cohorts of its
mentoring programme successfully
joining more than 40 boards and Lim, the chief operating officer “She fully understands the life stage
committees. Mentors have no of Audax, which is backed by I’m at … and openly shares nuggets
doubt played an influential role Standard Chartered Bank, shares of wisdom with me,” Lim says. Her
in advancing this transformative that she was spurred to join the mentor’s guidance on ambition,
change—something Fernn Lim, a mentorship programme due to “a commercial drive and strategic
mentee from the programme’s third desire to achieve gender parity on timing—knowing when to pause and
cohort, can attest to. boards, especially in the technology when to push for more—has been
space”, adding that “there’s still instrumental in her learning.
much work to be done to bridge Lim also credits Ooi with
this gap”. As someone who regularly enhancing her global outlook
engages in quarterly board meetings and encouraging bigger thinking,
and collaborates closely with saying that Ooi taught her to “ think
shareholders, Lim places a high bigger, such as looking beyond
value on corporate governance. Singapore‑related associations to my
“Joining the programme,” she global connections.” Their synergy
says, “was a natural move for me is thanks to the programme’s careful
to master new competencies mentor‑mentee pairing, which Lim
and capabilities to enhance my describes as “spot on”—“We have
personal boardroom skills.” With excellent work chemistry,” she states.
experience in participating and But it is not just the mentees
leading various female mentorship who reap benefits. Ooi, who reflects
initiatives, she brought a seasoned positively on mentoring Lim, and
perspective to the programme. praises their immediate connection
From top:
Georgette Tan “I have a good sense of what good and the strong bond they developed,
(standing), looks like. The BoardAgender finds it a “rewarding experience to
the chair of
BoardAgender, programme certainly exceeded witness her growth”, recounting that
at one of the my expectations.” “mentoring someone brimming with
non‑profit
organisation’s Lim was matched with drive, curiosity and energy feels a bit
events; attendees Ooi Huey Tyng, who currently like mentoring my younger self ”.
at a graduation
ceremony of holds independent directorships at With more than three decades
BoardAgender’s AIG Asia Pacific Insurance Board, of experience spanning finance,
mentoring
programme. Maxis Berhad, the Pacific Century banking and fintech, Ooi’s shift into
Opposite page: Group and Bridgetown 3 SPAC. As board roles makes her an exemplary
Attendees at
a fireside chat
working mothers in the financial mentor. In 2021, she made a pivotal
with Ilaria Chan, technology sector, both women have move to board positions—a decision
the chairperson
of Tech For
a shared experience when it comes she counts as one of the best she
Good Institute to balancing career and family. has ever made. “The journey has 141
been life‑changing. The boardroom the Asia Pacific, the
offers a unique vantage point where Middle East and
I can strategically contribute, Europe. “Successful
while also affording moments for mentoring is based
self‑reflection. It’s not a retirement, on building a trusted
but a deliberate step towards a more relationship. That
strategic and fulfilling phase of my involves a two‑way
career,” she says. conversation …
Ooi champions mentorship’s role Done well, the
in women’s empowerment, crediting mentor will be
her achievements to the people who exposed to different
have guided her. “I’m grateful to points of view and
have so many mentors and career will benefit as much
sponsors to whom I owe my success. from the discussion as
Over the years, I’ve found joy in the mentee.”
mentoring as my way of giving Winsor further
back,” she remarks. “A female‑led shares that he joined
mentoring programme not only the programme
cultivates a diverse talent pool, but as he was inspired
also reshapes corporate governance.” by the impactful
Like Ooi, who finds mentorship role of diversity
“mutually enriching”, Nick Winsor, in governance.
fellow mentor of the programme’s “I’ve experienced
2023 cohort, considers the practice first hand the power
a privilege. “The most striking thing of diversity in action
about being a mentor is how much and would like to
you learn,” says the non‑executive do whatever I can
director at Bankers without to enable boards
Boundaries Connect Singapore, to capitalise on this opportunity,” composition with cognitive
who has an extensive background he says. diversity is essential for boards to
in financial services and held As the sole male mentor in the effectively stay vigilant, manage
numerous board positions across programme in 2023, Winsor’s risk adeptly, and navigate both
insights are particularly poignant in upside opportunities and downside
addressing the navigation through risks successfully,” she states,
male‑dominated environments. highlighting how global disruptions
“Building a successful career is such as the Covid‑19 pandemic have
already challenging enough, without spotlighted the need for agile and
having to deal with bias, conscious forward‑thinking boards.
or otherwise,” he observes. Winsor echoes the significance
Ooi concurs, noting the internal of diverse perspectives in board
barriers women often impose effectiveness, noting that “the
on themselves due to societal aim is better outcomes for all
stereotypes. “I find the stereotypical stakeholders”. He stresses that true
views of feminine and masculine board diversity extends to active
traits unfair; because of [such engagement and valuation of varied
views], women have a deep‑rooted perspectives. “There’s no point in
fear of being seen as too ambitious having a different voice at the table
or assertive,” she expounds, if it’s not listened to,” he says.
identifying these traits as hallmarks Still, gender diversity by itself
of leadership success. does not guarantee innovative or
Both mentors touch on the “fresh thinking”, Winsor cautions.
importance of board composition “I’d encourage all directors,
and diversity for long‑term regardless of background and
company success. Ooi highlights gender, to understand their role on
the role of cognitive diversity in the board, be authentic and express
enriching boardroom discussions, themselves. Offering a different
decision‑making and mitigating perspective leads to healthy debate
group‑think. “Optimal board and, hopefully, better decisions.”
 financial acumen and the ability to
manage boardrooms, adding that
“to be effective as an independent
Clockwise,
from left: director, diplomacy and emotional
A BoardAgender courage are needed, especially in
graduation
ceremony;
bringing up contrarian views”.
Nick Winsor; The future for women on boards
Ooi Huey Tyng.
Opposite page:
looks bright. While “it’s early days
Fernn Lim yet,” says Windsor, given that there
are only “three cohorts of graduates
As a member of an investment suggesting that one starts by so far who are now making their way
company focused on the Asia Pacific, “building a proven track record and in the corporate world”, he looks
he witnessed the invaluable a good reputation to first achieve a ahead with optimism. “In time,
contributions brought by a new ‘senior enough’ position”. She also I’m confident that we’ll get to a
female member who has extensive advocates for the early development position where gender diversity
expertise in China, sharing that of “foundational boardroom capital”, [in boardrooms] will no longer
her perspective, particularly in which refers to strategic thinking, be an issue, with a broad pool of
discussions on geopolitical risks experienced and
impacting investments, has led to talented female
more effective decision‑making. leaders, and that
“She brings a different point of view there’ll automatically
to our discussion. The board makes be opportunities
better‑informed decisions as a for all.”
consequence,” he highlights. Ooi shares this
For those aspiring to board vision, highlighting the
positions, Winsor points out a transformative impact
common challenge: securing of initiatives such
membership, which he likens to a as BoardAgender’s
“chicken and egg” scenario. “One mentorship
thing all directors agree on is that programme on
getting the first board position is the corporate culture.
hardest. But once you establish a “By investing in
track record of success, other roles women’s growth
will follow. Looking for the right first today, we’re sculpting
opportunity, preferably from within a future where
an individual’s existing network, inclusive leadership
will better increase the chances of thrives, ensuring
success,” he says. enduring impact in
Ooi recommends creating a corporate landscapes,”
strong professional foundation, she asserts. 143
 FEATURES | ARTS

A new generation of Eurasian action and martial arts film stars navigate
their identities and find new purpose from the craft By Zabrina Lo

F
or a long time, Asians were are taking over the screen; some of
portrayed as weak, nerdy and whom are mixed race and are at an
uncool in Hollywood—until intersection between east and west
Hong Kong-American actor as they take up the “stereotypical”
PHOTOGRAPHY ZED LEETS

Bruce Lee first upended this image Asian practice of martial arts in
with his martial arts moves and western films. Tatler speaks to three
roles as the “strong Chinese hero” mixed race action film stars on their
Lewis Tan wears Zegna
outerwear, knitwear, denim
in the 1960s and 1970s. Today, a experience in the martial arts and
144 pants, and his own shoes new generation of martial artists film scenes.
Jason Tobin
shadowboxing
at his studio.
Opposite page:
Tobin
PICK LOVE NOT WAR:
JASON TOBIN
From self-defence to landing diverse
acting roles, martial arts have helped
the actor find his place in the world

Jason Tobin is elated about his role in

A Thousand Blows, a historical drama
series slated for release this October
on Disney+. He plays a Chinese man
who runs a boarding house in 1830s
Victorian London, where gangsters,
murderers and immigrants fight for
survival in the violent melting pot of
the city’s East End.
Far from Young Jun, the brash,
funny, martial-arts-practising
gangster-playboy he played in all
three seasons of the HBO action
series Warrior, his character this
time is mild-mannered, meek and
not a fighter. “I never attempted
to be Jackie Chan. I’ve always
marketed myself as an actor: I
want to be challenged; I want to
play different things,” says Tobin, a
martial artist who practises boxing,
Thai boxing and Bruce Lee’s Jeet
Kune Do, a hybrid martial art. “As
an actor, you get to be someone else
and it’s very liberating, even for a
brief period. That’s the feeling I’m
chasing. To jump between these two
roles has been really satisfying.”
Over the three decades since he
moved to LA to look for acting work,
he has played a variety of characters:
an auto technician in The Fast and
the Furious: Tokyo Drift (2006) and
later Fast and Furious instalment
F9 (2021); a businessman in Jasmine
(2015); a shady tipster in Fistful of
Vengeance (2022). But when he first
arrived in Hollywood, it hadn’t
occurred to him that such a wide
range of roles could be within reach.
“The archetypes that I now play
were not open to me before. When I
arrived in America 30 years ago, the
biggest Hollywood film that had any
Asian representation was Joy Luck
Club (1993),” he says. “I wasn’t getting
enough auditions or opportunities in
Hollywood.” While he believes that
PHOTOGRAPHY ARLO PYNE

an actor’s job is to “wear a mask” and

be “cast [taking into consideration]
the way I look”, the scope of stories
and characters in Hollywood were
predominantly white. It wasn’t
common to have directors and A Thousand Blows. “Do I worry “In Warrior, [my character]
scriptwriters from Asian or other about perpetuating stereotypes? Young Jun literally says the same
non-white backgrounds offer Yeah, maybe.” But he adds that he words that I feel in life: ‘I’m Chinese,
experience to those from racial always voices his concerns to the but I’ve never been to China. I
minorities back then. production crew if he feels the was born in America, but I’m not
“I kept getting cast as the presentation of an Asian character American. I don’t know who the hell
Chinese politician because I was is off. “You do your best to do the I am’,” Tobin shares.
very young and energetic. When a role justice. If I read the script and I “I understand what it’s like to be
show producer says, ‘Oh, we need a think, “Oh my God, this is just utter an immigrant, to not fit in, and that
kid to deliver Chinese food for this stereotypical bulls**t, then I won’t I’m not Chinese enough in Hong
team’ or ‘Asian gangster number do it.” Kong, not English enough in the
whatever’, they’d come to me,” he He feels pleased—and lucky—that UK and not American enough in
says, admitting that he cherished he is working at a time when Asian America. This is a very familiar story
any opportunity that came by in the American cinema is bourgeoning: for Asians anywhere in the world.
competitive industry. with Netflix series Beef (2023), These characters are part of me.”
In those early days, the only starring Ali Wong, the first person The actor says he would like to
Chinese onscreen hero he could of Asian descent to win a Golden continue to tell Asian American
relate to was Lee. Being the only Globe Award for Best Actress, stories in the future. And wherever
Chinese student at his UK boarding enjoying massive critical and in the world his job takes him next,
school, Tobin would get picked on; popular acclaim; Michelle Yeoh he feels growing his career doesn’t
it was his white father who started becoming the first Asian to win necessarily mean expanding his
to show him movies featuring the Best Actress at last year’s Oscars for prominence in Hollywood. “I’ll be
martial arts icon. “It was his way of Everything Everywhere All At Once very happy even if I never work there
giving me an Asian male role model, (2022); and the growing number again [as long as I] keep exploring
who helped me get through my of films and series about the Asian Asian American roles. Because there
childhood because he was someone experience overseas. are so many stories that I can relate to.”
I could aspire to. In western cinema,
there really weren’t any Asian role
models,” he recalls.
This motivated him to learn
martial arts to defend himself,
seeing how Lee defeated his
opponents with the “flashy kicks
which are so exciting to see” in
martial arts films. Later on, Tobin
also dabbled in hung kuen (a Shaolin
style) and wushu. But at a certain
point, he realised that some of the
traditional martial arts and wushu
he had been learning “are fantastic
for movies and TV but are not
necessarily practical for fighting in
real-life scenarios”.
He has since moved on to
learning mixed modern martial arts,
which is a combination of styles
for real fighting, Tobin has also
gradually come to realise—unlike
how Lee established the “strong
Chinese man” image by playing
physically powerful characters in
western films—that he can push for
better representation of and respect
for different cultures by taking on
diverse acting roles.
That’s not to say Tobin shies
away from what may be considered
clichéd Asian American roles such
as his meek Chinese immigrant in 147
 CONTINUING THE
LEGEND: LEWIS TAN
The actor has his father to thank for
his interest in his craft, and in telling
diverse stories

Lewis Tan has been in some pretty

exciting Hollywood movies: Pirates
of the Caribbean 3 (2007), for which
he skipped his last day of classes
at college to fly to the Bahamas
to play a Chinese pirate; Fistful of
Vengeance (2022); Mortal Kombat
(2021) and its 2024 sequel; and
Deadpool and Wolverine (2024).
He’s certainly been working
hard to get these roles: he has a
prolific martial arts profile—muay
thai, kickboxing, karate, jujitsu,
wrestling, nunchucks, katana
sword, kempo, wing chun and
boxing—and he performs all his
stunts himself. But his proudest
production to date is his directorial
debut that will start production this
year: Goldenboy, a fictional action
drama based on his father Phillip
Tan’s life story, from his traumatic
childhood of being abandoned by
his parents in mainland China and
his struggles of growing up Asian
in London to making a successful
career as the British men’s
taekwondo champion in 1985 and
Hollywood stunt choreographer.
“He designed the fight scenes
for Indiana Jones and the Temple
of Doom and Batman with Tim
Burton. He was there working
with Jack Nicholson [in Batman]
and teaching Ke [Huy Quan in
Indiana Jones] all those moves. there weren’t many opportunities of the Asian community on and
He has accomplished so much for Chinese actors and he wasn’t off screen become one of the most
[even though] he had to deal with offered roles until years later. He talked-about topics in the industry.
adversity,” Tan says with a beam. first did action design for films, fight “It’s a beautiful time to be working
“No one else can make that movie choreography and stunt directing, [in films] right now,” he says. “For
but me.” before being cast in Tango and Cash many years, Asian people were seen
He says that not only because he’s (1989) and Lethal Weapon 4 (1998), in as femmes fatales or some nerdy
his father’s son; he also feels that which he was asked to do an Asian guy. Now, we’re starting to tell
their experiences as martial artists accent, despite his English fluency. more nuanced, deeper stories of
in the film industry are so different If he wanted to make a living, he human experiences. The race thing
PHOTOGRAPHY ZED LEETS

just over the course of a generation, didn’t have the freedom to reject the is so silly because we all feel loss,
reflecting how far the opportunities roles or speak up. pain, joy, fear, insecurities and
to tell Asian stories in the west Today, his son, who joined anxieties. To be able to showcase
have come. In the 1970s, when the industry due to his father’s Asian people in a way that’s not
148 his father first moved to London, influence, has seen representation one-dimensional is important.”
From far left: He has experienced this change
Lewis Tan wears
Zegna outerwear first-hand. In 2019, he starred in
and knitwear; his Wu Assassins, the first Netflix
own pants
original drama with an all-Asian
cast. When he played Shatterstar
in Marvel’s second and third
Deadpool movies, he felt “a huge
shift in the way I was being looked
at. I went to Comicons [the comic
book convention]—Asian kids
came up to me and said, ‘I love
your movies.’ They’re looking
at me in a way that I didn’t have
anyone to look at.” The actor says
while he doesn’t know if what he
does will lead to change, it does
make people feel more accepted in
a society where “maybe they didn’t
feel so comfortable. Everybody
wants to feel confident, look cool
and have that sense that they’re
part of this big, general narrative.”
That doesn’t mean his
career—or personal life—has been
smooth sailing. “I was born in
England. When I was growing up,
everybody looked at me as like this
Chinese [boy] living in London,
and I wanted to know more about
my culture and people,” he says.
Then when he became an actor,
the most difficult thing for the
first eight years was how “casting
directors didn’t know what to do
[with me]. They were like, ‘Is he
white? Is he Asian?’” That didn’t
discourage him from chasing his
dream, but rather made him more
determined to “establish who I am,
what I can offer as an artist and be
looked at like a normal person. I
hope that’s showing in my work.”
Looking at the heroes who
inspired him—Bruce Lee, Jackie
Chan and his father—he feels they
have laid a foundation for Asians
to be seen and respected in the
industry. “Because I’m mixed
race, I have a completely different
perspective than what they had.
Now it’s my turn to take [their
efforts] even further. I’m finding
my place and telling my story,” he
says. “And I’ve only just begun
with it.” 149
MARTIAL ARTS FOR mixed American, German and
ALL: ANDREW PONG Chinese heritage; his father, Chin
The Hong Kong-based White Crane Siu-ho, is a martial arts actor of
kung fu practitioner wants to bridge Chinese descent, best known for
cultures through martial arts starring opposite Jet Li in Fist of
Legend (1994).
It’s impossible to miss the Bruce His parents’ busy work schedules
Lee figurines and posters inside meant they had little time for him,
New Era Martial Club, a martial and the big screen became “the only
arts studio in Hong Kong’s Quarry way to see them; and that translated
Bay district. The founder, Andrew into me watching old-school action
Clifford Pong, is the grandson of and kung fu films from Hong Kong,
Chan Hak Fu, a second-generation such as Fist of Legend”. As a child,
practitioner of the White Crane Pong dabbled in ice-skating and
style of kung fu, and grew up ballet, but martial arts remained
watching a lot of martial arts and his favourite hobby because of “the
action movies by the likes of Bruce flashy, fancy things like tumbling,
Lee and Jackie Chan. chucking and a lot of gymnastics.
Today, the 34-year-old star has I didn’t particularly think about
accumulated almost 30 action film becoming a full-time martial artist. I
and drama credits. Most of these just thought it was fun.”
were produced in Hong Kong It wasn’t until he turned ten that
or mainland China, but some, he found a deeper meaning to this
including this year’s releases Agent craft. He used to spend his summers
Recon and 2Alone, are Hollywood in San Francisco, where his hero
productions. It’s not surprising that Bruce Lee was born; the summer
Pong went down this career path, when he was ten, he learnt that not
given that it’s something of a family only did his grandfather run schools
tradition: his mother, Sharon Kwok, in Hong Kong and Macau to teach
is a former martial arts actress of White Crane kung fu, but he also
had a branch in the US city. His
grandfather was part of the thriving
martial arts scene largely formed
by the Chinese community in the
Bay Area in the mid-20th century,
who saw martial arts as a hobby and From top: Andrew Pong
in his traditional White
means of self-defence against the Crane school outfit doing
anti-Chinese sentiments or class a mid-air kick; a White
Crane posture.
struggles they faced in their new
home abroad. The traditional craft
of martial arts was often seen as Like Lee, who taught martial arts
a mark of pride they had brought to both Chinese and non-Chinese
from home. students in the US, Pong also
While Pong did not face the same believes that his craft is a means to
level of racism as his grandfather’s bring the world together. “I believe
generation did when he attended that martial arts and action are a
boarding school in the UK and universal language that transcends
university in California, he feels the cultural barriers. Jackie Chan
same pride in how “my grandfather’s didn’t know how to communicate
White Crane style is part of my [with English speakers] but then
[Chinese] heritage. It defines me.” people loved him for [his action
PHOTOGRAPHY ZED LEETS

His mother gave him some basic movies],” he says. “Back in the
training in his teenage years, and he 1930s, some Chinese people in
later started training seriously in a [San Francisco’s] Chinatown were
San Francisco dojo, or training hall, offended when Bruce Lee was
during his summer breaks in the city. teaching [white people] kung fu.
But as a Chinese person, you should different backgrounds—martial for my physical skills. Although I
be proud that other cultures are artists, parkour artists, ex-military find it amusing that the crew on set
learning or celebrating what you personnel, ex-bodyguards—to teach in Hollywood sometimes asked if
do. Martial arts are not something a wide range of activities and skills. I needed Chinese food. They were
that should be exclusive to Asian Over the years, Pong himself has not rude; they thought it was part
communities. Anyone coming from picked up new skills from other of my diet and they were genuine,”
Antarctica to Africa can learn it for cultures: taekwondo, hapkido and, he recalls. He hopes to one day
all I care. Different types of martial in February, he earned a licence as a challenge himself with sentimental
arts should be celebrated globally. gymnastics coach. and emotional roles in the “Wong
I’m happy to learn theirs as well.” As for his film career, he also Kar-wai kind of films. It is the true
To that end, he set up his Hong has great ambitions. The actor test to any actor’s capabilities,
Kong martial arts school that has mainly played police officers, because you convey a meaning or
teaches White Crane-style kung wuxia heroes, and gangsters in emotion without speaking—which,
fu to students from a wide range his western productions. “That in a way, is similar to martial art
of cultural backgrounds. He also has nothing to do with race or my films, in which your body does
brings together professionals of Eurasian looks, however—I was cast the storytelling.” 151
 FOR

Singapore-based chefs share what they

are doing in their kitchens to ensure a sustainable
dining experience By Dudi Aureus

W
hen Singapore went into lockdown in 2020 kitchen waste and promoting a more eco-conscious use
due to the Covid-19 pandemic, Tim Meijers, of resources”.
the chef-founder of Tim’s Fine Catering, Meijers is not alone in his goal of stepping up his
found himself stuck at home and thinking sustainability efforts over the past few years. As the word
IMAGES AIR; LABYRINTH; RE:GROWTH; TIM’S FINE CATERING

about how to make his bespoke catering company “sustainability” streamed into diners’ consciousness,
better for the planet. “I took a step back and assessed many chefs and F&B business owners adopted similar
my catering business, its direction, and how I could approaches such as minimising food waste, avoiding
be more sustainable,” he tells us. While Meijers disposable ware and cutlery, and sourcing local
and his team have been using eco-friendly reusable produce and ingredients in a bid to be greener. But as
porcelain plateware, stainless steel cutlery and linen these methods become more commonplace, what else
napkins instead of disposables, they also “consciously are they doing differently to move the sustainability
began sourcing produce and ingredients that are conversation forward?
locally-grown and seasonal to discourage forced Oliver Truesdale-Jutras, the former head chef of
agriculture and reduce our carbon footprint”. The chef urban farm and restaurant Open Farm Community and
now “meticulously plans our ingredient orders to ensure founding member and current chairman of Singapore’s
152 they are just sufficient for our events, thereby curtailing F&B Sustainability Council, believes that the core
 FEATURES | FOOD & DRINK

January, sustainable principles have already been built

at its core. After all, the farm-to-table concept is helmed
by Will Goldfarb, the chef-owner of Room4Dessert in
Ubud, Bali, and Matthew Orlando, the chef-owner of
the now-shuttered Amass in Copenhagen, Denmark,
which was considered as one of the world’s leading
restaurants in sustainability. But describe Air as a
“sustainable restaurant” and you will be gently corrected
by Orlando, who says, “that’s just a by-product of our
pursuit of new flavours”.
For one, the 40,000-square-feet space features a
sprawling garden created in partnership with local
urban farm City Sprouts, which grows about 60 types

Clockwise, from
left: Restaurant
Air’s sprawling
garden; the
restaurant is
nestled among
greenery at
Dempsey Hill;
the cassava bread
with mushroom
XO butter dish

focus for most restaurants will still be sourcing local

and seasonal ingredients, as well as addressing food
waste. Truesdale-Jutras explains that these are still very
“impactful areas that chefs and restaurateurs can easily
get behind” as they do not require “heavy investments”,
especially for restaurants that are already in operation.
If such sustainability processes are not built in from
the start, he likens the massive change to that of building
a car. “It’s very easy for an expert to make a car, but
it’s hard to build it when it’s already on the highway.
Thus, once the restaurant is running, it’s very difficult
to pivot to fundamental sustainable aspects.” He adds
that this is a challenge that is “not unique to Singapore,
but [is felt] globally”.
Since restaurant Air, which stands for “awareness,
impact and responsibility”, opened at Dempsey Hill this
 of seasonal herbs, spices and fruits that are used heavily
on the restaurant’s menu. There is also a massive
R&D kitchen on the second floor, where the culinary
team regularly experiments with ferments, nose-to-tail
cooking, and the use of by-product ingredients that are
often discarded. “We created a lot of not-so-good dishes”
quips Orlando, “as well as innovative dishes that make
the best use of every ingredient”.
Take, for example, the iteration of his Amass
signature fermented potato bread. At Air, he replaces
the potato with cassava, a quintessential Southeast Asian
ingredient he discovered on a trip to Johor in Malaysia.
He serves it with whipped mushroom XO butter, made
with mushroom trimmings cooked with ginger, onion
and garlic for 12 hours.
Other signatures include the coral grouper fillet
served with lavash made with fish bones, lemongrass
and chillies. And then there is the Reincarnated
Chocolate, which is made with the by-product of three

From top: Oliver

Truesdale-Jutras’s
baked pumpkin
with fried vegetable
skin; a selection of
canapés from Tim’s
Fine Catering, and
its chilled avocado
soup (pictured
below). Opposite
page: LG Han’s
chilli crab 8.0

common processes: cocoa husks that are thrown upon

processing cocoa beans; cascara, the dried skin of
coffee cherries that has no purpose; and coconut flesh,
which is discarded in the commercial use of coconuts.
These three ingredients are roasted and ground with
cocoa butter, resulting in decadent bars with a coconutty
finish. “Basically, this is the traditional way of making
chocolate, just without cocoa beans, of which there is
a worldwide shortage,” Orlando explains. While the
culinary team goes through all these complicated
processes to create delectable dishes, Orlando lets on
that they do not want to preach. “It’s about informing
guests, but on their own terms,” he says.
With these sustainable principles set in place, the next
154 focus for Orlando and Goldfarb is “awareness”, which is
why they included a cooking school within the space. it now but how it was also done in the past,” Han
The idea behind this, declares Orlando, is to create a explains, adding that while Labyrinth is a modern
space where individuals can “connect, learn, and inspire Singaporean restaurant, the traditional aspects
each other, ultimately contributing to a more vibrant still remain. “We just don’t present it in a way that
and informed conversation around food”. people may recognise.”
Truesdale-Jutras agrees that awareness is the The Hainanese pork curry rice dish he served on
next step, coupled with responsibility, which is why his menu last year was made using a recipe that was
he founded sustainability consultancy Re:Growth, given to him by a retired hawker chef. While the curry
where his “small squad” helps businesses become today is often made with potato starch and sugar
more sustainable environmentally and economically. because “it’s faster and cheaper”, Han closely follows the
With his role at the F&B Sustainability Council, he traditional recipe, making everything from scratch and
hopes to move the discussion forward with industry using sweet potato to thicken the sauce.
leaders to come up with greener solutions and more And instead of rice, he serves it with various grains
sustainable practices. such as millet and barley, as well as breaded and
While more businesses are moving towards deep-fried pork. “The flavours [of the Hainanese pork
sustainable approaches in the kitchen, LG Han, curry rice] are there,” says Han. While he does not say
the chef-owner of the Michelin-starred restaurant much about the other Singaporean dishes he is working
Labyrinth, hopes that the industry does not forget on, he tells us that he is currently working on his own
about cultural sustainability. In his kitchen, where he version of the salted egg.
crafts his New Singaporean cuisine, Han continues Despite the hard work and effort that comes with
to work on preserving heritage flavours so that championing cultural sustainability, Han is not deterred.
future generations can enjoy them. “Every single He surmises: “If we don’t preserve these [heritage
dish we create at Labyrinth, we deep dive into the flavours], then we’re going to have a whole new generation
traditional roots and recipes, not just how to do of Singaporeans growing up not knowing who they are.”

155
 Memories
of 2011
Krug’s Les Créations de 2011
collection comprises
the Krug 2011 and the
Krug Grande Cuvée 167 ème
Édition, two special releases
crafted with the year 2011
in mind

“A good champagne house should Created in honour of the house 46 per cent pinot noir, 37 per cent
only create two champagnes of founder, the Les Créations de 2011 chardonnay and 17 per cent
the same quality.” These were the collection is the latest chapter pinot meunier. The vintage was
famous words of Joseph Krug when in the maison’s storied history nicknamed “Spirited Roundness”
he founded the house of Krug in of expressing a particular year by the tasting committee due to
1843 with the goal of creating the in a bottle—in this case, 2011. its finesse and power, after having
most exquisite champagnes with Winemakers would remember spent 12 years maturing in the wine
the same level of distinction every the unpredictable weather during cellar. Imbibers will understand
year—regardless of the climate. that year; an intense summer why once they nose the champagne,
This vision rings true till this day, started earlier than usual, and it which expresses itself distinctly
with the champagne house led by was followed by rainfall and cool with lively aromas of apricots and
cellar master Julie Cavil crafting weather, as well as scorching heat white fruits followed by tangy star
IMAGES KRUG

the most beautiful expressions of on the eve of harvest. fruit and citrus, as well as hints of
bubbly in special cuvées such as The story of the year is told basil leaf and liquorice. The power
156 Les Créations. through Krug 2011, a blend of and roundedness come through
 sampled around 250 wines from the the touch of pinot meunier from
aforementioned year two to three Sainte Gemme imparted fruitiness,
times, and about 150 reserve wines and the chardonnay from Côte des
from 14 different years. Blancs, Chouilly and Oger gave the
With a record of more than champagne that desired character
4,000 tasting notes, Cavil shared and body.
that she selected wines harvested Krug’s Les Créations de 2011 is
in 2011 from plots near Montagne indeed a continuation of the house
de Reims Nord, in Mareuil sur Ay. founder’s commitment to crafting the
These were chosen for their most exquisite champagnes. Olivier
“surprisingly beautiful, ample Krug, the sixth‑generation director
and fruity expressions”, while the of the brand, shared: “At Krug, we
pinot noir wines from plots in love to share our stories and with a
Verzonay were added to give the Krug Vintage, we tell the story of an
wine “structure”. Older reserve interesting year. It is our love and
wines from Verzonay brought dedication that allow these delicious
From top:
Olivier Krug, the finesse and mature elegance, while tales to be brought to life.”
sixth‑generation
director of Krug;
plots of land in the
Champagne region.
Opposite page:
Krug’s Les Créations
de 2011 collection

on the palate with the fruity notes

tasting like they had been cooked
by the heat, resulting in characters
of dried fruits, marzipan, jam and
barley sugar.
Also part of the Les Créations
de 2011 collection is the Krug
Grande Cuvée 167 ème Édition,
an assemblage of 191 wines from
13 different years. The oldest dates
back to 1995 while the youngest
is from 2011. In making the new
Édition, which was crafted with the
harvest of 2011 in mind, Cavil and
her team of five to six wine tasters
 FEATURES | TRAVEL

AS ABOVE Don’t forget to look up when you stay

at these five-star hotels By Coco Marett

W
e love a stars in a World Heritage- home to the andBeyond the most of the stellar
hotel with listed national park, the sky Sossusvlei Desert Lodge. location to enable guests
a view. And is the limit when it comes The lodge borders a to marvel at the night skies
sometimes—as to exploring the celestial recognised International without barriers. Also
is the case for wonders above. Dark-Sky Reserve—a on-site is a state-of- the-art
these stunning hotels—that designation awarded by observatory, managed by a
view is the sky. Whether ANDBEYOND SOSSUVLEI non-profit group Dark-Sky resident astronomer.
it’s staying in a suite in DESERT LODGE, International certifying The 12 stone suites
rural Italy with a ceiling NAMIBIA that the area enjoys some at andBeyond Sossuvlei
that opens at the flick of The Namib is the world’s of the darkest skies on sit along the curve of
a switch, an overwater oldest living desert, and Earth, unspoilt by light the desert escarpment,
observatory in the middle at the heart of its vast, pollution. To add to this each with a secluded
of the Indian Ocean helmed quiet expanse is the great news for stargazers, veranda, a private plunge
by a resident astronomer or 12,715-hectare Sossusvlei the resort’s design makes pool, a living room with
158 sleeping under a blanket of Private Desert Reserve, liberal use of glass, making a fireplace, a bar stocked
with Namibian gins, South It’s also home to the
African rums and more, award-winning 21,500 sq ft
and a retractable skylight Chenot Espace Spa, where a
above the bed. dream team of experts offer
everything from beauty
L’ALBERETA, ITALY and wellness treatments to
You might think you medical consultations and
have some moves in the diagnostic tests. There’s also
bedroom, but have you an entire floor dedicated
ever flicked a switch and to hydro-treatments,
watched the ceiling above including sauna, steam bath
your bed open to reveal a and Turkish bath.
sea of stars or a sun-
drenched Italian sky? We ANANTARA KIHAVAH,
didn’t think so. MALDIVES
In the Cabriolet Suite Anantara Kihavah’s
at L’Albereta, you can do overwater observatory
just that. in the Maldives hovers
Built for romance, over crystal-clear waters,
L’Albereta in Lombardy is and is home to the most
surrounded by rolling hills powerful telescope in the
and vineyards—it has two Indian Ocean. The resort
wineries to its name—and has a resident celestial
is a short drive from guru, native Maldivian Ali
the stunning Lake Iseo. Shameem, who spent his
The Relais & Châteaux childhood mapping the
property’s ivy-draped region’s constellations.
exterior is elevated with Today, he helps guests
modern European design navigate some of the most
and “where can I get that?” fascinating sights and
designer furniture. It constellations in the night
features 53 rooms, villas sky, from the pale yellow
and suites, including the rings of Saturn and the
aforementioned romantic counter-rotating zones and
Cabriolet Suite. belts of Jupiter to the Milky

From top: The ceiling

opens at the push of a
button in L’Albereta’s
Cabriolet suite; the
Northern Lights on
full display at Arctic
Bath. Opposite page:
andBeyond Sossuvlei
Desert Lodge borders
an International Dark-
Sky Reserve

159
 Way’s shining Omega
Centauri star cluster and
Messier 13—a dense cluster
of more than 300,000 stars
in the mighty constellation
of Hercules.
Bringing its guests the
best of sky and sea, during
the day Anantarah Kihavah
offers some incredible
aquatic experiences. Think
snorkelling with Hawksbill
sea turtles, dolphin
watching and exploring its
pristine surrounding reefs
on environmentally friendly
seadarts or transparent
tandem or solo kayaks.

Tatler Tip: Reserve one

of the resort’s generously
sized overwater pool villas,
which grant direct lagoon
access and spectacular
160 sunset views.
 ARCTIC BATH, SWEDEN
Arctic Bath in Swedish
Lapland fully leans into
its wonderland setting so
that its guests can, too:
think enchanting forests,
moose and reindeer tracks
in the snow, and a night sky
painted with the dancing
electric colours of the
Northern Lights.
Its modern, five-star
land and water cabins—all
built from local materials,
including trees that have
fallen in nearby forests—
appear to hover above the
ground or the Lule River,
while glass walls, floating
walkways and sky-gazing
decks further blur the lines
between indoor and outdoor
spaces. Enjoy the Northern
Lights from two steamy
outdoor Jacuzzis or your
cabin’s private deck, or sitting
Clockwise, from left: cosily by the fireplace. For
Stargaze in the middle of the the latter, we recommend
ocean at Anantara Kihavah;
private lodges at andBeyond booking the land cabins or
Sossuvlei; Arctic Bath in suites, as they feature large,
Swedish Lapland; Anantara
Kihavah’s overwater floor-to-ceiling windows.
observatory; views of Uluru
at Longitude 131

LONGITUDE 131, the region’s expansive desert

AUSTRALIA starscape. On one of those
Connect to Australia’s nights, the storytelling
spiritual centre at session is a guided “star
Longitude 131, which is in tour” led by the lodge’s
the World Heritage-listed resident astronomer, who
expanse of the Uluru-Kata decodes the southern night
Tjuta National Park. It sky to help guests locate the
has just 15 tents—which Southern Cross, the signs
are more like stylish of the zodiac and the Milky
cabins—looking out towards Way, while sharing the
the rust-red wilderness of significance of the stars and
the Simpson Desert, with planets in Aboriginal stories
incredible private views of of creation.
the sun rising and setting
over Uluru. Tatler Tip: Elevate your
Every other night, stargazing experience with a
guests are taken to a night on your tent’s private
secret location for the deck—the staff can help set
lodge’s Table 131 dining up an outdoor bed so you can
experience, a multi-course sleep under a blanket of stars
alfresco meal followed by a and wake up with Uluru in
storytelling session about your sights. 161
 The Big Day
As this writer finds out, you can count on The Ritz‑Carlton, Millenia Singapore
to bring your dream wedding to life—be it big or small, intimate or grand

It is a truth universally acknowledged

that there are few things in life more
stressful than examinations, job
interviews and—perhaps the most
nerve‑racking of them all—planning
for one’s wedding.
While the big event itself is cause
for joy and celebration, the journey
from engagement to “I do” can be
overwhelming for the couple. The
prospect of planning the perfect
celebration is undoubtedly thrilling
but it also demands careful planning
and a keen eye for detail. And this
is something I, as a newly minted
fiancée, can attest to.
A capable events partner can
help take some—if not most—of the
load off wedding prep for a more
enjoyable ride to the aisle, and
here is where The Ritz‑Carlton,
Millenia Singapore steps up. Besides
versatile spaces—when it comes to makes The Ritz‑Carlton, Millenia more enjoyable than I thought
momentous events such as one’s Singapore an obvious choice for my it would be. Their meticulous
IMAGES THE RITZ-CARLTON, MILLENIA SINGAPORE

nuptials, few venues evoke a sense big day. attention to detail and commitment
of grandeur and elegance quite Planning a wedding usually to perfection, not to mention their
like this luxury five‑star hotel with entails multiple decision‑making— innate understanding of every
a legacy spanning nearly three from curating a delicious dinner couple’s unique love story, make for
decades—it offers the services of its menu to picking the perfect shade a surprisingly stress‑free wedding
wedding planning team, which takes of peonies. With Bethany Tan, the planning experience.
care of all on‑site arrangements as hotel’s senior wedding consultant, My brief to The Ritz‑Carlton,
well as acts as a liaison between the and Junya Rumjaroenchai, its Millenia Singapore is, well, brief,
couple and the in‑house culinary director of catering, by my side, to say the least. I envision a regal,
162 and operations teams. Naturally, this the process, I’m glad to say, proves festive and intimate celebration
The hotel’s Junior
Ballroom can
comfortably host up
to 120 guests and
offers a convivial
indoor‑outdoor feel.
Opposite page, from
top: With a legacy
spanning nearly
three decades, The
Ritz‑Carlton, Millenia
Singapore has set the
stage for many dream
nuptials; newly‑weds
can unwind after a
night of celebrations
in a spacious suite
overlooking Marina Bay

spanning two days, with the with its soaring ceiling, gold‑tone Rumjaroenchai remind me,
hallmarks of a vibrant Indian chandeliers, and state‑of‑the‑art are ultimately a celebration of
wedding: lively music and dance, panoramic LED video walls. As every couple’s love story, and it
lush floral decorations, and of Tan assures me, the versatility of is this very reason that drives
course, a feast of North Indian the Grand Ballroom makes for an The Ritz‑Carlton, Millenia
delicacies. What impresses me enchanting backdrop; the perfect Singapore to craft one‑of‑a‑kind
most is how they run with my blank canvas for the elaborate celebrations, no matter what your
vision, coming up with creative set‑ups I envision, such as a long dream wedding may look like.
recommendations that both walkway draped with colourful
embrace the cultural richness I seek fabric, and a grand centrepiece dais SAY “I DO”
and show inventive flair. adorned with hundreds of roses, Ready to take that walk down the
Of the four wedding venues in lanterns and a chandelier. aisle to your happily ever after
the hotel, Tan recommends the A sumptuous feast is an at The Ritz‑Carlton, Millenia
Junior Ballroom for the sangeet indispensable element of any Indian Singapore? Pop down to the hotel’s
(a pre‑wedding celebration with wedding and The Ritz‑Carlton, wedding showcase on April 21. To
music, dance, and performances by Millenia Singapore is certainly be held in its Grand Ballroom, the
family and friends). A great option up to the task of ensuring that my event includes a bridal runway
for more casual events, it offers an guests are well fed. Going beyond show, live culinary presentations,
indoor‑outdoor feel, with windows traditional North Indian dishes, consultations with wedding
on one side overlooking lush Rumjaroenchai and her team planners, and a scent and flower
greenery. An intimate space that can propose a customised menu that workshop. Couples who confirm
comfortably host up to 120 people, skilfully blends classic Indian their wedding at the showcase will
it is the perfect setting for my guests flavours with inventive twists—a also enjoy additional privileges
to mix, mingle and dance. creative fusion of Singaporean, such as a complimentary upgrade
For my main event, a wedding Middle Eastern and vegetarian of the bridal suite. Terms and
dinner for 500 guests, Tan dishes such as mezze, Impossible conditions apply.
suggests the Grand Ballroom. As seekh kebab and stuffed kueh pie
its name suggests, the sprawling tee that would cater to the diverse For more information, email
1,085‑square‑metre space tastes of my wedding guests. leting.ng@ritzcarlton.com or
epitomises grandeur and luxury Weddings, as Tan and call 6434 5019. 163
FEATURES | TRAVEL

FINDING
Eddy Downpatrick went
from finance to fashion
to facilitating once-in-a-
lifetime adventures in the
most breathtaking corners
of the world By Coco Marett
 ddy Downpatrick’s travel plans for this year pursue his passions, namely traversing some of the
read like someone’s lifetime bucket list: wildest, most inhospitable corners of the Earth. In
seeking out Europe’s last free-flowing rivers 2021, following stints in the finance and fashion worlds,
in the Balkans, combing the wilds of the he founded Aristeia Travel, a travel concierge that
Mongolian steppes, taking on adventures in takes intrepid travellers to far-flung, breathtaking
the hidden realms of Kyrgyzstan, exploring destinations. Last year, he took a group of guests to
the Nepali portion of the Himalayas by Ladakh, where he guided them on one of the highest
helicopter, trekking the recently reopened ancient white-water-rafting trips in the world, starting at some
paths of the Trans-Bhutan Trail, and then to Norway, 4,400 metres above sea level, along the Zanskar River
“where the aurora is likely to be at its very best for at “complete with what are, at times, kilometre-high rock-
least a decade”, he says. He will also be sharing “the walls looming above”, he recalls. “This was combined
magical experience of with visits to Buddhist
being in the water with Eddy Downpatrick
temples that are set
orcas [killer whales] shares his love of against cliff faces, one
adventure through
in northern Norway as his luxury travel
of which is run by the
they cruise the fjords company, Aristeia Dalai Lama’s brother,
on their annual hunt Travel. Opposite
page: The majestic
and in the midst of
for huge schools of Himalayan mountains high-altitude plains.”
herring. You can listen Aristeia Travel
to these creatures also customises
underwater and gain trips that combine
an understanding of adventure and luxury
mammals whose levels to destinations such as
of sophistication and Patagonia, Antarctica
intelligence we are and Kazakhstan—
only just beginning to taking on the regions’
appreciate.” wilderness by day and
Finally, he’ll continue staying in beautiful,
to explore the place that environmentally
is closest to his heart: minded lodgings that
the Scottish Highlands, foster meaningful
where he will indulge in connections between
the region’s “incredible, people and place by
not to mention deeply night. “We are a high-
romantic, natural and end travel business,
cultural history”. [but] it is not that
Downpatrick’s which makes us unique,
affinity for the Scottish but rather the curated
Highlands runs deep, access we offer to the
and inherently runs in special places of the
the family. His full name world [and] the ways in
is Edward Windsor, which we let our guests
Lord Downpatrick experience them,”
(yes, that Windsor), and he is the second cousin, twice Downpatrick says. “This stems from an imaginative way
removed, of the late Queen Elizabeth II, who was of looking at the world, but also from what you might say
known for her great love of the Highlands and spent her of me is an unusual, esoteric background, knowledge
final days at Balmoral Castle in Scotland. Following her base and cast of connected characters.”
death, Downpatrick shared a photo of the late monarch Another favourite pocket of the world is the
hiking in the area with the caption “To the eternal Dolomites, northern Italy’s collection of towers, peaks,
realms of the Heilan hikes”—Heilan being the Gaelic pinnacles and vertical rock faces, which are among the
word for “highland”. highest in the world. “I [first] saw them in spring, their
The low-key member of the British royal family valley floors carpeted with wildflowers and their lakes
enjoys a comfortable distance from the pressures of and rivers variations of emerald green and crystalline
working royal life, which allows him to explore and turquoise blue,” he says. “That’s not even mentioning the 165
 quality of the food—superlative, to seeking action, to be exposed
say the least.” to events, peoples, phenomena;
The seed for Aristeia Travel and are more willing than past
was, however—and of course— generations to put themselves
planted in Scotland, where the through what might have
company offers a selection of travel previously been considered
itineraries, including ones that discomfort in order to achieve it,”
“intertwine the allure of Scotland’s he says. “Do you come home with
natural wilderness with the rich tales of adventure, astounding
history of its whisky” by way of encounters, jaw-dropping
private distillery tours and private views, hilarious characters,
plane excursions. enlightening lessons, a new frame
Privileged vantage points aside, of reference? Or do you return
there’s something charming and saying the spa was lovely and you
infectious about the humility couldn’t believe how attentive the
and reverence with which hotel staff were? In some cases,
Downpatrick views the world. On you can do both ... but better to
his Instagram account, he often guarantee the former and treat
shares poetic reflections and observations of the places the latter as icing on the cake.”
he’s been, though he says it offers barely a snapshot of To continue doing what he’s doing, nature needs to
IMAGE JAMES SAINTY (PORTRAIT)

his experiences. “It is hard by stills and short videos thrive. And recognising an undertaking that is far bigger
alone to capture the essence of a place, the charm of its than himself, Downpatrick believes that if more people
people, the fleeting interactions which make such an witnessed the beauty and majesty of the natural world—
impact on one’s overall experience,” he muses. whether through Aristeia Travel or other means—they
“People now talk of a luxury of experience beyond might feel more inclined to protect it. “There is no doubt
166 material luxuries. Now more than ever, people are that to sustain our existence as we know it, we have in
“People now talk of a luxury of
experience beyond material
luxuries. Now more than ever,
people are seeking action, to
be exposed to events, peoples,
phenomena”
From left: A pod of orcas
spotted in Norway; Scotland
holds a special place
in Downpatrick’s heart.
Opposite page, from top:
Prayer flags on a mountaintop
in Nepal; Downpatrick is
a low-key member of the
British Royal Family who has
forged his own path

great part laid waste to the natural world. One might

argue that as a species, we could have learnt to live with
and learn from her, as many ancient peoples did, rather
than taming her,” he says. “What we should learn from
the natural world is that there is a dignified resilience to
her mutability, her indomitability, and that there is yet so
much more that we could learn from her, most notably in
how we medicate and feed ourselves.
“Many who have travelled with me have already
taken action to a multitude of ends, especially in the
conservation of our planet’s wild places, often inspired
by the people they have encountered far away from
home who devote their lives to the care of these places
so worthy of our protection. “ 167
 W
Embark on a modern-day hen it comes to grand voyages, there are few
that evoke a sense of allure and adventure
transatlantic crossing combining quite like an Atlantic Ocean crossing on a
the spirit of exploration with all grand ocean liner. Even in modern times,
when one can easily hop on a jet plane and shuttle
the creature comforts By Karen Tee between London to New York in approximately eight
hours, there are still cruise ships that specifically ply
this route proving that the glamour and romance of slow
travel still appeals to the jet-set crowd.
So, when luxury cruise line Oceania Cruises invited
us to join its inaugural transatlantic crossing of Vista, the
newest addition to its fleet of ships, we were intrigued
enough to pack our bags to fly to the UK to embark on
this two-week voyage that would ultimately dock in
New York City. (It typically takes six to eight days for a
direct one-way crossing but cruise lines like Oceania
usually include several ports of call to allow passengers
the opportunity to enjoy day trips on land as well.)
IMAGES OCEANIA CRUISES; KAREN TEE

On embarkation day in Southampton, spirits are high

as close to 1,200 well-heeled guests fill the mid-sized
ship to capacity. The Vista is Oceania Cruises’ first
new liner in a decade and it has certainly been built to
impress by renowned Italian shipbuilder Fincantieri.
The ship is designed in a contemporary, lighter-toned
colour palette, as compared to older ships, to appeal to
168 modern shutter-happy travellers. We immediately spot
 FEATURES | TRAVEL

fellow passengers posing for photos in the main lobby, Those who prefer to sit back and be entertained
where a grand sweeping staircase and a floor-to-ceiling will not be disappointed. Although the offerings
crystal and light installation takes centre stage. on a mid-sized ship like the Vista are generally
As the ship sets sail, we pop into a cocktail session to not as extensive as the large liners that can hold
mingle with some of the passengers. “We are all here to 5,000 passengers or more, the range of options is
enjoy this wonderful transatlantic experience together, well-curated. An array of musical acts, including
so have a great time and say hello to a stranger,” says a Ukrainian string quartet, a Canadian pianist and a
cruise director Paul Baya. “After all, a stranger is just pop-rock cover band from the Philippines, offer day to
a friend you have not met yet.” Indeed, this convivial, night melodic entertainment.
clubby vibe sets the tone for the rest of the voyage And as with cruising tradition, each evening
especially since this crowd knows they are among generally ends with one main act in the theatre.
the lucky lot to score a coveted spot on an inaugural This includes a West End singing act, an Irish fiddler,
ocean crossing. a New York stand-up comedian, as well as the ship’s
Many of the cruisers, who hail predominantly from very own entertainment troupe which debuted three
the US, UK and Europe, as well as a sprinkling of Asian new shows featuring acts by Dancing With the Stars
globetrotters, are experienced seafarers who are more choreographer Britt Stewart.
than happy to regale us with tales of exploring the seven It does not take long to fall into a very comfortable sea
seas. Surprisingly, they tell us that they are most looking day routine. Mornings are for leisurely breakfasts where
forward to the sea days where there are no ports of call, we drop by the new F&B concept Aquamar Kitchen,
as this is the best way to fully luxuriate in all that the ship which focuses on lighter, wellness-inspired fare for our
has to offer. We nod but privately wonder what could favourite dose of cold-pressed raw orange, carrot and
one possibly do on a ship for days on end? Plenty, as we ginger juice, before sojourning to Baristas cafe for an
quickly find out. excellent macchiato pulled by an Italian barista.
Our first sea day arrives sooner than expected when We might stop by the handsome wood panelled
a thick fog shrouds Cork, one of our ports of call in Ralph Lauren Home-outfitted library to flip through a
Ireland, making it impossible for the ship to dock. lush coffee-table book, or catch up on e-mails—made a
Instead, we dive headlong into a host of activities the lot easier as the ship is connected to high-speed Starlink
crew has planned. They range from shuffleboard and internet, aka Elon Musk’s satellite system.
ping-pong tournaments on the deck to bridge, mahjong, The highlight of our afternoons are undoubtedly
bingo and needlework sessions to cater to a wide range the daily trivia sessions, which turn out to be rather
of interests, while allowing guests an easy way to connect competitive especially among this well-travelled,
with like-minded individuals. knowledgeable crowd. Alas, although our group tries

The well-appointed
Concierge Level
Veranda Stateroom
on the Oceania Vista.
Opposite page: The
Vista is Oceania
Cruises’ first new
liner in a decade; the
ship’s main deck 169
 our best, we collectively turn
out to be average at best but it
is all in good fun. It is, however,
excellent consolation to have
found a group of like-minded
travellers who we end up
having happy hour drinks,

of the cruise.
Geeks at heart will no doubt enjoy the fact that the
cruise line also offers a line-up of enrichment lectures,
many of which are themed to the cruise itinerary. On our
voyage, guest speaker James Grant-Peterkin, who has
authored several books about the Pacific and Atlantic
oceans, gives a series of lectures on iconic transatlantic
crossings and the explorers who chartered these courses.
“Because of the history involved in transatlantic
cruising, it has always been considered the pinnacle of
ocean sailing. Back in the day, there were many beautiful
ships sailing across the Atlantic and, even today,
crossings still tap into a journey that people still want to
Clockwise,
experience for themselves,” observes Grant-Peterkin. from top left:
His lecture topics include historic figures such as Newfoundland,
an island off
Christopher Columbus, the man who put the Atlantic Canada’s Atlantic
Ocean “on the map”, so to speak, to more obscure ones coast; the Titanic
Belfast museum
including Donald Crowhurst, the amateur sailor who in Northern
tried to deceive the world when he embarked on a Ireland; the
gruelling race to circumnavigate the globe. iconic Manhattan
skyline from the
Of course, there is also a session on the Titanic, Oceania Vista
arguably the most famous ship of all time. For those who
might still be harbouring some lingering nervousness role in shaping the history of mankind. There was a
about running into icebergs, know that the Titanic was poignant visit to Saint-Malo, the mediaeval walled city
in fact meticulously designed with many technological in France, which was occupied by Germans during
advancements that continue to impact the maritime World War II and the site of a fierce liberation battle at
industry. Tragically, it was a series of preventable the end of the war.
human errors that ultimately led to its demise. This fact, More uplifting stops include Killybegs, the largest
which we learnt during the lecture, was driven home fishing port in Ireland but with a town so small that
in stark detail when we visited the excellent Titanic a cruise liner passing through became an occasion to
Belfast museum during a stop in Northern Ireland, organise a live music performance at its one local pub so
constructed on the very site where the liner was that passengers can enjoy a pint of fresh Guinness while
designed, built and launched. hanging out with curious local shipyard workers.
Other ports of call along the way continue to On the other side of the pond, we are delighted to
170 shed light on how the Atlantic Ocean has played a spend a day on terra firma on St John’s in Newfoundland,
an island off Canada’s Atlantic coast, after three sea It is disappointing to some but when pitted against
days. Once a fishing stop for European fishermen, it is the power of the Atlantic Ocean, what else can
today a lively city featuring unique architecture, a relic we do? Nevertheless, we are excited to arrive in glitzy
of its history as one of the first British colonial capitals, Manhattan in the most iconic way possible—by sailing
and plenty of bars and restaurants all within walking up the Hudson River and gazing upon the Statue of
distance of the port. Liberty, a symbol that even today continues to represent
Speaking of food, the consensus among passengers welcome and hope for so many.
is that an upcoming stop at Bar Harbor in Maine, And so we gamely rise before the crack of
where the oldest lobster fishery in the world is located, dawn to admire the colossal yet elegant figure of
would be one to remember. Unfortunately, we never Lady Liberty as we sail by. How lucky we are to be
make it there because news of an impending hurricane a privileged guest on this luxury liner on a journey
compels the captain to alter our route and sail directly to that has in itself shaped the history of mankind in so
New York City. many ways. 171
 A Fairy‑tale Affair
Whether it is an intimate outdoor wedding or a lavish indoor one,
realising one’s dream nuptials, as this writer pleasantly discovers,
is no sweat with W Singapore – Sentosa Cove as partner

From ditching the white dress to doing

away with the traditional wedding
cake, almost every aspect of a wedding
is optional save for one: the venue.
After all, you will need a place for
family and loved ones to gather for the
actual ceremony—as small or large as it
may be.
With so many options to choose
from, finding the right one can be
tough. While I do not have a clear
vision for my wedding, I do know
I want to have it outdoors—and where
better to begin my venue hunt than
at W Singapore – Sentosa Cove?
After all, the luxurious hotel is the
perfect escape away from the city
and comes complete with a lavish
green lawn that overlooks the sea.
So I connect with Ho Mun Hoong,
the hotel’s director of events, who
explains how couples are linked
with event specialists to help with
the wedding preparations. “Tell us
as much as you can and we’ll tell
you all we can do,” he says during
our consultation. After I share a
few thoughts on my ideal outdoor
wedding, he quickly gets to work and
shows me some of the hotel’s options.
“You can enter via a yacht,” he
says, immediately catching my
attention, as this is not something
many hotels and resorts in Singapore
are able to offer. He explains that
the boat will be berthed and lead me
directly to the Great Deck, where he
proposes the ceremony be held. For
the wedding dinner, the W Lawn
(spanning 5,791 square feet) is able to
host up to 200 guests, depending on
the type of seating arrangement one artist Laurence Jenkell that sits at groom for a drink that is uniquely
chooses. To maximise the area, Ho the centre of the massive lawn. theirs, adding that the initials of
recommends having 20 round tables When it comes to food the couple will also be stamped on
that seats a total of 200 guests. For a and drinks, there are options the ice cubes. He then goes down
unique layout, he suggests arranging aplenty. For starters, Ho suggests the extensive menu of dishes that
the seating around the stunning his‑and‑hers cocktails that can I can pick from, spanning from
172 golden bonbon sculpture by French be personalised by the bride and classic staples to elevated local and
 Having the wedding
of your dreams is
easy with help from
W Singapore – Sentosa
Cove. Opposite
page, from top: The
luxurious Great Room
is a grand space made
for magical moments;
after the celebrations,
newly-weds can retire
to the swanky confines
of the Marvellous Suite
and be pampered with
in-room breakfast the
next morning

international fare—think scallop as the backup venue. The roughly the bar can offer late night snacks
laksa, lobster risotto and a live bao 720‑square‑metre space is grand, such as sliders, noodles and pastries
station. While external caterers are to say the least, with a stunning blue that will pair well with drinks as the
not allowed due to hygiene risks, carpet, an impressive LED screen perfect post‑wedding fare.
Ho says that one to two specially measuring 14 metres by 5 metres, Once the celebrations are over,
curated dishes can be included in and elegant chandeliers. Tall my partner and I can retire to
the final menu upon special request. windows complete the pillarless the hotel’s Marvellous Suite,
With the hotel’s uplifting and space, bringing in natural light an 80‑square‑metre space
IMAGES W SINGAPORE – SENTOSA COVE (VENUES); PIXIOO PHOTOGRAPHY (COUPLE)

energetic vibe, it is only apt that and stunning views of the hotel’s with floor‑to‑ceiling windows
it offers an exciting line‑up of tropical surroundings. Ho, however, overlooking views of the water, a
entertainment for wedding guests. tells me that should we wish to marble‑clad bathroom, a separate
Ho shares, for example, how the hold the wedding indoors instead living room and more. We would
ceremony can feature a live band of outdoors, the decision has to be also be pampered with in‑room
or live music spun by a resident made four hours before the event breakfast the next morning.
DJ. The hotel also engages with itself to give the staff ample time to By the end of the consultation,
multiple wedding and event bring the decor in. I have a better idea of what I want
partners that have the capacity to What’s a wedding without an for my wedding, thanks to Ho. He
engage personalities to host the after party? Woobar, Ho shares, was able to cover multiple bases on
celebrations. is the perfect location to party the how W Singapore – Sentosa Cove
With Singapore’s unpredictable night away with my guests. Newly can help bring my wedding to life.
weather, a backup plan needs to be extended to offer more seating and The hotel’s ability to customise
in place for any scheduled outdoor space, the bar can be closed off for each wedding to suit the wants and
event. To that end, when the lawn is a private after party, at a minimum preferences of different couples also
booked, the hotel’s main ballroom, of 150 guests. Along with a DJ and a adds to the allure of picking it as the
the Great Room, will be reserved curated music list, Ho explains how ideal wedding destination. 173
IMAGE MARTELL
 FEATURES | SPIRITS

In true maison Martell savoir faire, the Martell Single Cru collection
showcases the essence of the terroir. Tatler Singapore gets a preview of
the collection’s six exquisite expressions in Cognac, France, ahead of
its launch in Singapore By Dudi Aureus
As we drive through the expansive region of Cognac of Martell cognacs,” says Valtaud. And we get a first taste
in France on a sunny summer’s day, a panorama of of some of these precious liquids in the hallowed cognac
endless vineyards unfolds before us, the various shades distillery where they were crafted.
of green stretching as far as the eye can see. We are The master blender lets on that the Discovery editions
on our way to Maison Martell to get a first taste of the are the best introduction to the terroirs of Fins Bois,
Martell Single Cru collection, ahead of its official launch Petite Champagne and Borderies, with the three
in Singapore this month. The view reminds us that the cognacs showcasing the lands’ distinctive characteristics.
vineyards—which are classified into six growing areas, “With the Discovery edition, you can discover the
or crus, according to the terroir and the quality of the impact of the soil and how it changes the taste of the
grapes—have been the heart and soul of the region since grapes [used in making cognac],” says Valtaud.
cognac houses started producing this liquid gold in the For us, the Single Cru Fins Bois is the easiest to drink,
16th century. thanks to its lush and juicy taste profile that instantly
Unlike other cognacs currently available in the invigorates our palate, while the Single Cru Petite
market, which are a blend of eaux de vie from different Champagne’s intense spicy notes burst with warm spices
regions, the Martell Single Cru is the first collection that and rich nuts that linger long after our last sip. Finally,
explores the distinct taste and personality of individual we are presented with the Single Cru Borderies and it is
terroirs. Martell’s master blender Christophe Valtaud, the fullest expression of cognac, with its rich tapestry of
who welcomes us at the maison, explains that this sweet and floral characters.
collection is the culmination of Jean Martell’s passion for The beauty of the eaux de vie featured in the Martell
terroir and cognac‑making since he founded the house Single Cru collection is their ageing potential, and the
in 1715. It is this unique savoir faire that generations of Aged series is the exploration of those from Borderies
master blenders have continued till today. and Grande Champagne, which have been aged to their
According to Valtaud, “the ethos of maison Martell fullest potential. While we do not taste this series due to
has been to express the best of the Cognac terroir”, its extremely limited availability, Valtaud shares that the
thus he and his team of master blenders crafted six Martell Single Cru XO Grand Champagne evolved into
expressions that showcase the essence of the Fins Bois, a complex cognac enriched with characters of nuts and
Petite Champagne, Borderies and Grande Champagne dried fruits, while the overtones of wood balanced the
regions. Fins Bois, for example, is famed for its reddish robustness and fruitiness. With more time to mature in
clay and limestone soil, which results in light and airy the cellar, the Martell Single Cru XXO Borderies is peak
eaux de vie, while Petite Champagne’s greyish and richness that dances with luscious fruity notes.
chalky soil produces fine and structured eaux de vie that The Vintage edition of the Borderies cognac, which
leave an impression on the palate. The soil at Borderies, comes in numbered bottles due its extremely limited
the smallest cru of the lot, Valtaud shares, contains flint quantities, is crafted with a single eau de vie produced
and clay that result in elegant eaux de vie with aromas in a single year from one terroir. In this case, it is from
of flowers and candied fruits, and Grande Champagne, Martell’s emblematic Gallienne estate situated within
which is said to produce the best grapes, has a chalk and Borderies. Despite the challenging year, Valtaud chose
limestone soil that makes eaux de vie with an aromatic eau de vie from 1999 due to the remarkable quality and
richness and power. rarity of the grapes. Upon distillation, the liquid was laid
In crafting the collection’s six expressions—which are to rest in fine‑grained oak barrels for 23 years to reach
divided into Discovery, Aged and Vintage editions—less its aromatic plenitude showing notes of candied fruit,
than 400 eaux de vie from Martell’s massive 11,000 linden blossom and citrus.
reserves available to Valtaud were able to best express With the launch of the Martell Single Cru collection,
the essence of their respective terroirs, which makes Valtaud hopes that “this aromatic exploration of the
the collection so rare. These liquids were also aged in Cognac region will speak to adventurous cognac
fine‑grained oak wood barrels, ensuring there is less drinkers, opening their palates to new tastes, and
contact with wood and lees to maintain their purest enabling them to build their own personal collection
expression. “The Martell Single Cru is a rare and that reflects their preferences and the pleasure
prestigious collection that represents less than 1 per cent of discovery”. 175
 HAUTE SPOTS
Cindy Chua-Tay lives in Hong Kong, but spends a lot of time in New York City, where she
has been on the Guggenheim Museum’s board of trustees since 2015, making her one of the
youngest board members and the first Asian. Here, she shares her NYC hotspots.
I love NYC … because like always spot personalities
no other city in the world, and celebrities.
it envelops you. It touches
you in so many ways, all Something very New York
your senses are awoken the that I adore is … going for
minute you arrive in the a run at Central Park.
Big Apple. It’s invigorating!
My favourite boutiques
One of the things I love in NYC are … Bode on
best about the city is … that Hester Street—the store
it allows you to generate any communicates the whole
kind of story wonderfully. narrative of the brand
It challenges you to try brilliantly: quirky, unique
something different. It’s handcrafted collectibles;
liberating and intoxicating. the finely appointed The
1916 Company Lounge in
Clockwise, from Fuller Building, beautifully
right: Cindy
Chua‑Tay in Polo designed by Studio
Bar; Chua‑Tay Mellone, to
at The 1916
Company Lounge behold
with her husband glorious
Tay Liam Wee;
Chua‑Tay’s home
timepieces;
in NYC; bagels and Aida
at Sadelle’s; the
Guggenheim in
Bicaj,
New York because Aida
(founder of the
exhibitions in the most me, I head to Sadelle’s. namesake beauty
stylish of settings; Tina It’s somewhat of a salon) has magic fingers
Kim Gallery because predictable spot, but it and I just adore her!
Tina (its eponymous always delivers on food,
My favourite museum founder) rocks and is such ambience and delicious
is … the Guggenheim for a wonderful patron of the bagels. If I want to be alone
all its splendour—its iconic arts; Acquavella for serious and catch up on e‑mails
rotunda that encircles you old‑school, traditional or finish a book and relish
when you gaze up. It diverts masters; Gagosian because in some alone time, I love
your attention to the works you just must be in the know Via Quadronno. It serves
of art surrounding you, of what the largest gallery the best paninis.
inviting you to look and network is showing and
appreciate their beauty. who it’s representing; and My favourite date night
Something about the Art Intelligence Global, restaurant is … Sushi Noz.
light streaming down and which isn’t a gallery per se Authentic, simple, clean
through that makes it but always has some gems Japanese omakase. My favourite secret spot
magical. It also has some on the walls. in the city is … my home.
INTERVIEW AUN KOH IMAGES CINDY CHUA-TAY

of the most pioneering I always take After my usual trips to

exhibitions in the city. If I head friends visiting museums and galleries, and
out for from out of town catching up with friends
My go‑to galleries breakfast or to … the Polo from the city, I savour
include … 56 Henry for brunch … and Bar because it’s the peace and quiet my
up‑and‑coming artists realise I have quintessentially little abode affords me.
with progressive visions; a leisurely New York. The food is It recharges me for yet
Salon 94 for the most morning divine, the ambience another brand‑new day
176 thoughtfully curated ahead of unparalleled, and you in the city.
 The best Singapore restaurant
recommendations on one platform
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