Gemini Pattern Editor v.X9 - User Manual
Gemini Pattern Editor v.X9 - User Manual
Gemini Pattern Editor v.X9 - User Manual
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USER MANUAL
rev X9
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Contents:
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1.12.6 Draw a pattern and anchor to the parametrical layer ……………………………… 316
1.12.6.1 Free draw and anchoring the pattern point by point ………………………………. 317
1.12.7 How to adapt a direct designed product for automatic grading ………………….. 318
1.12.7.1 How to adapt a direct designed pant for automatic grading ……………………… 319
1.12.7.2 How to adapt a direct designed skirt for automatic grading ………………………. 322
1.12.8 Getting a size set for a model that was created by parametrical design ………... 324
1.12.9 „Made to measure” size – How to create an atypical size or the work on demand 325
1.12.10 How to create a classic skirt pattern in the Parametrical mode ...……………….. 328
1.13.1 Edit dependency groups for the patterns in a model ……………………………... 331
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Gemini Pattern Editor – Gemini Pattern Editor is the main program in the Gemini CAD package. This is the
program destined to pattern design, product grading and checking, pattern matching for further sewing operations.
Gemini Pattern Editor helps you digitize patterns or can import models sent by the clients.
Gemini Pattern Editor insures the patterns for the next steps of the technological flow.
Gemini Pattern Editor has 8 working modes, each with different functions:
Button
symbol: Mode: Available functions:
Resize, align, overlap, join, cut, intersection, symmetrization, fold-unfold,
PATTERN TOOL extract seam allowance, interpolation, align to grain axis, pattern cutting
parameters settings (fabric, symmetry, double pattern).
Convert lines and curves, define angles in corners, point alignment, rotate
SHAPE TOOL and change point position, interpolation
Technical drawing from base geometrical shapes, from free lines or from
DRAW TOOL lines with predefined length and angles; drawing with points with given
coordinates
Pattern contour digitization, grain axis, notches, symmetry line, internal
DIGITIZE points, pattern name and information
Edit size set, grading on reference point with grading table or special keys,
GRADING align sizes in different pattern points, symmetrization, rotation, grading copy,
change base size
Work with: darts (rotate, close, cut), folds (fold, unfold), notches, grain axis,
GARMENT
seam allowance, symmetry axis, translate contour, parallel to the contour,
TOOL
internal technical points
Direct length measurements, contour length on the sewing line, angles and
MEASURE AND
surfaces measurements, automatic notch transfer between patterns to be
CHECK TOOL
sewed together, matching patterns for verifications, watcher
Develop the parametrical layer, load script, save script, insert step into the
PARAMETRICAL
script, delete step from the script, fast quote change for the MTM measure
Standard toolbar
Cut the selected pattern and copy it into the clipboard for further usage
Extract the pattern from clipboard and paste it into the current project
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Display the zoom level and allows zoom in and zoom out operations
Pattern checker
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Create a new pattern on the external cut line and adds the seam allowance
Create a new pattern on the internal seam line, eliminating the seam allowance
Horizontal flip
Vertical flip
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Rotate pattern until the line determined by the selected two points becomes horizontal
Bulge close
Fullness
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Draw rectangles
Draw ellipses
Draw spiral
Draw circle
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Create fold
Declare dart
Automatically calculate the point grading from the neighbor points grading
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Modify the shape of the pattern on the base size without changing the other sizes
Cancel the “manual modification” of one sizes for the selected points
be built; if you set a symmetry line to a pattern, it will be automatically set as « symmetrical - half »; if you remove
the symmetry axis, the pattern becomes « simple »
3. Multiple « D » – is a pattern that appears many times, identically, in the final project, without mirroring
the resulting patterns
4. Symmetrical flipped « Fx » « Fy » « Fxy » - are patterns that appear many times in the final project
but that are mirrored from the original pattern.
5. Pattern designed on internal seam line – is a pattern with the contour representing the pattern
seam line; Gemini Pattern Editor will automatically add the seam allowance to this type of pattern before cutting and
according to designer specifications.
6. Pattern designed on the external cut line - is a pattern with the contour representing the pattern
cutting line; no seam allowance addition is needed; generally, the digitized patterns are checked as « designed on
the external cut line »
7. Auxiliary pattern - is a pattern used only in the design step. These patterns are not imported in
Gemini Cut Plan or Gemini Nest Expert programs.
Pattern type can be set in « PATTERN TOOL» mode.
Points
A pattern contour is formed by multiple points connected by lines and/or curves. The points can be corners
or can be located on curves and lines. Each point has 2 coordinates, on horizontal and on vertical from the pattern
origin point. Pattern origin can be any point on the contour and can be reallocated without any contour shape
changes.
To modify a pattern shape you can change the point type and position, you can add or delete points or you
can change the curve shapes. These operations are available in « SHAPE TOOL » mode. There are two types of
points: graded points and curve points.
The points can be defined from the pattern origin, from a parametrical point or as curve points.
Grading
Size adjustment for each pattern in order to fit the size specifications of each size is an operation called
GRADING. To grade a project, you have to individually grade each pattern in it. To grade a pattern, you must grade
all significant points on its contour; these points are called « Grade points ».
Grading a point (point grading rule) means to establish the coordinates for the point movement between
sizes; these coordinates are mentioned in the so called grading table.
You can set grading by setting the increase step from a size to another and by setting the total
modifications from the base size.
The points with no grading are called « simple points » and are automatically graded by Gemini Pattern
Editor according to neighbor graded points.
Grading can be done manually or automatically, by applying the grading rules created and previously
saved on the computer.
The points can be set as « graded points » or « simple points » in « GRADING » mode.
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1.4 The workspace – what you need to know before starting a project
Beside design, grading and checking knowledge you will need basic knowledge on computer work: open
and save the projects, undo operation mistakes, display the patterns in a project., page orientation.
you can drag the interactive cursor toward « + », to zoom in or toward « – » to zoom out
zoom to selected area (click on this button and then click on the left mouse button and drag to define
the region of interest)
zoom to selected object (the image magnified for a selected object to fill the workspace)
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Keep «Space » key pressed to transform the cursor shape into a little hand. When the cursor has this shape, you
can move the work space by mouse drag.
To copy a pattern in the same project or between two projects, you must use CUT or COPY and PASTE commands.
Usefully the operation order is as follows:
- Click to select a pattern
- Click on COPY button (the pattern is copied and temporary placed in a computer memory area called
Clipboard)
- If you want to copy the pattern in the same project, click on PASTE button (pattern is extracted from the
computer memory and placed visibly in the same project)
- If you want to copy the pattern in another model, after copy you must open the other project and then to
click on PASTE button
Save a project
Save project
When you finish designing a project and periodically during working process you must save
changes by clicking on the « Save project » button.
The program creates a backup file each time you save a project on a new name. This file,
named « backup of – model_name.gem » contains the previous project content. Backup
means a spare copy. Thus, if you have operated changes and then you have saved the
project but you want to go back to the previous project state and content, you may open the
backup file.
Gemini Pattern Editor can automatically save the model at a predefined interval (usually 2-3 minutes). Even if the
computer is blocked or resetting you will loose only the changes operated in the last minute (max 2 minutes) so as
the changes can be easily recovered. To avoid loosing a GEM file even if it was never saved, an auto backup file is
created.
At the first time save, you must enter the project name; on further saving the program will save changes in the same
file. If you want to save a file in a new folder, in the Save window you must click on the button « Create e new folder
» in order to create a new folder on the hard-disk; here you can save the GEM file.
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Reference grid
To facilitate user dimensional orientation, you can display a grid with 10 cm spaced grid Show/hide grid
lines. Click on « Show/hide grid » button to show/hide the grid; if the button is down then
the grid is displayed; if the button is up, the grid is hidden. In the settings module you can
adjust the distance between the grid lines.
It is useful to place the pattern origin on a grid line intersection. For a fast and accurate
alignment of the pattern origin in the grid line intersection click to select the pattern and
drag
it with the mouse while holding down ALT key; the object will remain fixed with the origin in a grid intersection point..
Arrange patterns on the cut line Arrange patterns on the cut line
When you click this button, the patterns will be arranged so as they will not intersect when
the seam allowance is displayed, or when the patterns are symmetrized or unfolded.
Thus, if you want to print the patterns in « overlapped mode », you must use this button to
arrange the patterns.
Show / hide distances on the patterns Show / hide distances on the patterns
The line or curve dimensions between two graded points can be displayed on all patterns
from the model without making any measurements before. To display the distances on the
patterns must press « Show / hide distances on the patterns »
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In Gemini Pattern Editor, you have the possibility to view all patterns from the opened
project, in a table called Pattern bar, placed on top of the screen. This table can be show or
hide on the screen, depending on user wishes, using the “Show/Hide” button.
You can use the stock area to select a certain pattern on the screen. For this, first you
must activate the “Select the patterns on the screen” button, and then click on the pattern, in
the stock area. This function is helpful, when you have patterns, having similar
shapes but different names, because here, you can see the name of the pattern
very clear.
When selecting one pattern, the background for the selected pattern
becomes black, and the pattern contour turns into the old background color
(white). The selected pattern becomes surrounded with green squares in the
work area.
You can select many patterns in the stock area-using SHIFT key from the key board.
In addition, you have the possibility, to use the stock area selection as
a zoom to the selected pattern. For this, you must use the “Zoom to the
patterns on the screen” function together with the previous one. While
these two functions are active, when selecting one or many patterns from
the stock area, only the selected patterns will come in front of the screen.
Warning! The selected patterns will not be moved from them place. If
there are some other patterns, next to the selected one, they will come
together with in the zoom area. The selected patterns will be surrounded with green squares in the work area and
having green shape; the others will remain with its own contour color.
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To select a pattern you must click on it with the left mouse button. On the pattern sides and corners will appear
small squares; you can pull from these squares to modify pattern shape (for this, you have to press CTRL or
SHIFT).
If you click again on a selected pattern you will go in « rotation » mode and the corner control points will transform
into rotation symbols; if you drag these symbols you can rotate the pattern.
When you select a pattern, its name and type (in brackets) will be
displayed in the status bar (in the lower part of the application).
If you have selected a symmetrical pattern, near its name appears an « S » between brackets; if you have selected
a double pattern, near its name appears a « D » between brackets; if you have selected a mirror double pattern,
near its name appears an « MD » between brackets.
By defining a selection region with mouse click and drag, you can select one or mode
patterns. Hold down
If you click on another pattern or near a pattern, the selection is lost. To select consecutively multiple patterns you
must click on them consecutively while holding down SHIFT key. Similarly, if you want to deselect one or more
pattern from a selected group, you can click consecutively on those patterns while holding down SHIFT key.
When you select multiple patterns by using SHIFT key or by defining a selection
region, in the status bar it will be displayed the number or selected main and
auxiliary patterns.
To place the pattern origin in one of the grid points, while dragging the object with the Use arrows
mouse, hold down ALT key.
This tip is very useful to paste two patterns in a single point. To do this, the points to be overlapped will be declared as origins
for the two patterns.
Hold down
The two patterns to be pasted. Hold down ALT and drag each
pattern until the origins are fixed 1.5.3 Pattern paste
point over point
Hold down ALT key. When you press the ALT key, all graded
points on the other patterns will be marked. The selected
point can be magnetized over any of the marked points.
Hold down
1.5.4 Pattern rotation; setting a rotation center; magnetization of the rotation center.
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A pattern or a selected group of patterns can be rotated with the mouse. Select the pattern and click on it once
again; the rotation symbols appear in the pattern corners and the rotation center symbol appear on the pattern. The
rotation center can be moved with the mouse in any position so as the pattern will rotate around that position. If you
drag the rotation symbols in the pattern corners you will rotate the pattern or the group of selected patterns around
the rotation center.
Hold down
First, the rotation center will be The rotation center can be moved to
centered to the pattern. another position; the pattern will rotate
around the new position
Hold down
To rotate a pattern by exact 15°, hold down CTRL wh ile moving the mouse. You will be
able to fast rotate the pattern by 45, 90, 180 degrees.
If you hold down ALT key while moving the rotation center, you can magnetize it on any
To paste the rotation center over other points by magnetization
point, so the point will become the rotation center.
Using the rotation center magnetization by holding down ALT key is useful when you
want to check the pattern joining in a specific point.
In « Pattern » mode, click to select the pattern; click again for the rotation
symbols to appear in the corners.
Grab the pattern in the point to be pasted, hold down ALT key
and drag near the point of the destination pattern where you will
paste the source pattern.
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Click to select the pattern rotation center and hold down ALT key;
then drag up to the point where you want the magnetization to
occur.
It is rarely used. Patterns can be stretched or shrink or proportionally resized. To resize a pattern, click to select it,
hold down SHIFT key and drag the corner and lateral resizing points with the mouse.
If you drag the corner points, the resizing process is proportional; if you drag the lateral points, the pattern will be
resized only on that point movement direction.
If you hold down CTRL key while dragging the lateral resizing points, the changes will be more accurate by a
specific multiplication of the base size (double, triple, double symmetrically, triple symmetrically). To multiply the
base size, while holding down the CTRL key you must drag the resizing points with a distance that equals the
double or triple bas size; otherwise no change appears.
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Hold down
Hold down
for an accurate pattern resizing
1.5.6 Move, resize, rotate, scale patterns using exact numerical data
To set the exact patterns sizes and positions, to rotate them under a precise
angle or to resize them accurately, you can use editing regions in the right
side menu of Gemini Pattern Editor. In this area, is a panel dedicated to 4
types of operations: resize, move, rotate, scale.
IMPORTANT: these panels are visible only in « Pattern » mode. In other
working modes there are displayed different panels, specific to other
operations. To enter « Pattern » mode see the beginning of chapter 1.5.
You can do only one modification to a pattern or to a selected group; for
example you can do just resize, just scale, just movement or just rotation at
once. You must press the “Apply” button after each modification.
Resize
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Scale
Move
Rotation
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For a symmetrical pattern with a declared grain axis (that is half of a complete pattern), you can display the other
pattern half that is the symmetrical for the current pattern.
Click on
Click on « Show/hide symmetrical pattern » button to display the second half of a symmetrical pattern.
As long as the complete pattern is displayed, any modification on the base size is automatically applied on the
symmetrical half. Sometime it happens that on the grain axis the seam allowance to be doubled. This is not a
problem while on the patterns printed for production the symmetrization occurs accurately, without applying seam
allowance on the grain axis. If you click again on the « Show/hide symmetrical pattern » button, it becomes inactive
and the symmetrical half is hidden.
Definitive symmetrization for a pattern results in a new pattern formed by duplication of the original pattern around
the grain axis. This new pattern looses the symmetrization properties: if you make changes on one of its two halves,
they are not applied for the other half.
Click on
Even if a symmetrical pattern is grouped with other patterns, when you click the button « Symmetrize in a new
pattern » a new pattern will be created by symmetrizing the symmetrical pattern.
As for the symmetrical patterns, the patterns with folds can be temporarily or definitively
Click on
unfolded in order to be verified. For a temporary pattern unfolding, first you must click to
select it, then click on the « Show/hide unfolded pattern » button. This button remains
active as long as the pattern is displayed unfolded. At this time you cannot operate
changes on the pattern. During unfolding, the program automatically adds notches in the
fabric folding points. button to display the unfolded pattern
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A folded pattern can be definitively unfolded by creating a new pattern. On the new unfolded pattern, the program
automatically applies notches on the fabric folding points. The new pattern can be modified and looses the
properties of a folded pattern.
Click on
Gemini Pattern Editor allows you to trace the seam line Click on Click on
from the cut line. This function is useful for the patterns
obtained by pattern digitization.
To extract the seam line, click to select the pattern and
click on button to extract a pattern onbutton
its internal
to extract
seamaline
pattern
with on
grading
its internal seam line without grading
- « Extract the internal seam line on a new pattern »
button if you want to extract the pattern without grading;
- « Extract the internal seam line with grading » button if
you want to extract the pattern with grading.
Attention! For an accurate operation accomplishment,
you must first set the seam allowance width on each segment; the seam allowance will be eliminated in order to
obtain the seam line.
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1.5.13. Create the internal seam line as auxiliary draw inside the pattern Click on the button
Gemini Pattern Editor application allows you to trace the internal seam line as
graded auxiliary draw, starting from the cut line. To extract the seam line as
auxiliary draw, you must click to select the pattern and then click on the button
To create seam line inside the pattern
« Create seam line inside the pattern ».
Attention! For an accurate accomplishment of this operation, first you must set the seam
allowance width for each segment in order to obtain the seam line.
Original pattern including the seam allowance Seam line created as auxiliary draw with grading.
1.5.14 Extract a new pattern with a parallel contour from an existing pattern
In Gemini Pattern Editor you can extract a new pattern with parallel contour from an existing pattern. This
function, “Extract parallel contour” can be found in Pattern tool and is enable only if you have at least one pattern
selected. This tool can be used to obtain in an automatic way patterns for fusing, lining or other patterns which
usually are smaller or bigger with a constant parallel than an already existing pattern.
Select the pattern from which you want to extract a new pattern
with parallel contour.
This function can be applied on many patterns in same time. In
order to do this you must select all patterns on which you need to
apply this extraction (use SHIFT key or rectangle selection to select
many patterns).
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The new resulted pattern will be graded and will have seam
allowance as the reference pattern. If the reference pattern was
designed on cut line, the new extracted pattern will be set also as
designed on cut line.
For better results on extraction it is recommended to use real values, according to the purposes of this function. After
extracting a new pattern using this function it is recommended to interpolate it. In order to interpolate the new pattern you
can use Interpolation function from “Pattern” tool or segment interpolation from “Shape” tool. By interpolation the point
number from pattern contour will be reduced and the curves will become smooth.
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figure 1
You cut off the pattern of the face First you select the drawing (the
When freeing the mouse
with the drawing which represents a cutting piece), then drag it from point
button, you have the first piece
curve segment. To do this you must D and, using ALT key, magnetize it
selected. Hold SHIFT key and
overlap the pattern and the drawing in over point B of the pattern. In this
a desired position (thus the A and B click on the pattern (the trimmed
moment the four points are
points overlap the C and D points) overlapping each others, two by two. piece) to add it on the selection.
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In order to create a new pattern from the intersection of two patterns, you need
to select two partial overlapped patterns. After you press “Create a new pattern from
patterns intersection”, a new pattern is automatically created, representing the to create a new
intersection area between two selected patterns. pattern from two
patterns intersection.
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Click on button
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You can automatically create points at patterns intersection. This function is useful to create fold opening points
(see chapter 1.9.17). First click to select the marker pattern, hold down SHIFT key and click on the marked pattern
in which the points will be created. Click on « Create points at patterns intersection » button.
Patterns are overlapped Hold down SHIFT key Click on « Create points at The new points are
in the corresponding and click on the marked patterns intersection » button. created on contour
position. pattern in which the intersection between the
Click on marker pattern. points will be created two selected patterns.
Two or more patterns can be aligned between them, for further processing.
The patterns alignment can be done according to the piece limits or according to the
matching point position on the pattern.
button to align two or more selected patterns
a) Patterns alignment to the piece limits
b) Patterns alignment to the matching point
To align two or mode patterns, you must first select them. The selection order is important for the
alignment. The last selected pattern will remain fixed while the other patterns will be aligned to this last pattern.
After patterns selection you must click on « Align selected patterns » button. A new window will open; there you can
select the way the patterns will be aligned.
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Note: The user must click on the “Apply” button after indicating the new position for the selected patterns to
arrange the patterns in the desired position. To close the “Align” window, the user must click on the “X” button
placed in the right up corner of the window.
To align patterns acording to the matching point it is necessare to select at list one pattern from the
dependenci group for which the user wants to make the alignement.
When applying the “Align” function to one pattern having the matching point defined on it or to a
group of patterns having at list one pattern with the matching point defined, the “Align” window
will open with “to the matching point” option checked.
When selecting a pattern that has defined a matching If there are selected two or many patterns and at list one
point, the “Align” window will open with the “to matching of them has defined the matching point, when applying
point” option checked and the “to the patterns limit” the “Align” function the window will open with the “To the
option is disable. matching point” option checked. In this case will be
available and the “to the patterns limit” option.
The patterns alignement acording to the matching point can be done for:
I) The selected patterns (if the selected patterns are making part from the same dependecy group on
the indicated direction) or
II) All the patterns that are part from the same dependency group with the selected pattern(s).
To apply this option the user must select at list two patterns who has defined the matching points. The
alignment can be done horizontally (when the patterns are matched according to the stripes), vertically (when the
patterns are matched according to the plaids) or on both directions (this if the fabric has squares, or other prints that
repeats on the fabric on both directions horizontally and vertically and requires to match the patterns in both ways).
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II) Align all patterns from the same dependency group according to the matching point :
Horizontal alignment :
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Select at list one pattern from the dependency group After applying the horizontal alignment to the entire
for which the user wants to make the horizontal dependency group, all patterns making part from the
alignment. selected pattern dependency group will be positioned with
the matching point on the same horizontal line.
Vertical alignment:
Note: To arrange the patterns in the new position the user must click on the “Apply” button after selecting the
alignment direction. To close the “Align” window, the user must click on the “X” button from the right up corner of
the alignment window.
Note: In the alignment window only the “to the patterns limit” option will be available if the selected patterns don’t
have defined a matching point.
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You can protect a pattern from accidental changes by blocking it. You must select the
pattern and then click on « Block the selected pattern » button. While this button is
active the pattern cannot be modified, moved or deleted.
If you want to unblock the pattern, you must click again the « Block the selected Button to align two or more patterns
pattern » button.
From now on the pattern can be edited again.
Auxiliary patterns are used to create patterns in a model and are saved together with the model; however they do
not participate to create the cut plan in Gemini Cut Plan application and are not placed on the marker in Gemini
Nest Expert application.
The « auxiliary pattern » property is declared in « PATTERN » mode, in the right side docker, where are displayed
the properties for the selected pattern. (see chapter 1.5.26).
An object designed and defined as « Auxiliary pattern » must be grouped together with the main pattern in the
project in order for the dependency defined during design to be plotted.
Attach an auxiliary pattern to a main pattern.
When you attach an auxiliary pattern to a main pattern, the former is taking the properties of the latter.
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If you copy a main pattern grouped with one or more auxiliary patterns then the result will be another main group
with attached auxiliary patterns.
An auxiliary pattern can be designed for cutting to CNC machine; for this
must check « Cut on CNC machine » option from right side menu in
« Pattern » mode. This option is active when you select an auxiliary
pattern.
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After digitizing, the pattern contour is formed by dots joined by lines. Even the curved Click on
regions are approximated by a bundle of straight lines reproducing the curve shape.
Gemini Pattern Editor has a unique useful function that transforms these imperfect curves
(formed by segments) into perfectly smoothed curves called Bezier curves. These Bezier
curves can be easily modified to correct or change the pattern shape and insures a higher
quality reproduction of the curved shapes. Button to interpolate pattern by Bezier curves
IMPORTANT: by interpolation, the point number on a curve is reduced almost to zero,
reducing the space occupied by the project in the computer memory.
WARNING: Do NOT apply the interpolation more than once on a pattern. If you repeat the
interpolations the original pattern shape may be seriously altered.
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You can change the color for each pattern. This operation is very useful for a project with many patterns, made
from various fabric types. For example, patterns for lining can be colored different from the cloth patterns, making
them easy to identify and manipulate.
To change a pattern color you must first select the pattern then click on « Change pattern color » button. In the
opened window you can choose a color; after click on a color, click on « OK » button.
Click on
Note: Those patterns that have the matching point defined can be aligned in
“Pattern Tool” mode on a direction by using it. (see chapter…)
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Click on
Pattern name appear in the product technical sheet, in Gemini Cut Plan program, for planning the cutting operation,
in Gemini Nest Expert for marker planning. Pattern name is printed on the plotter, on each pattern, together with the
size. This is why each pattern must have a specific name to help the user to identify the pattern and the category.
Pattern name is written in the upper part of the right side menu. After you have entered the pattern name, press
ENTER key to apply changes. The pattern name appears in the workspace, overlapped to each pattern on the grain
axis or on the text axis.
- Fabric type field will be filled with the fabric type for the selected pattern (e.g.: liner, tweed etc)
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If the fabric type was already filled for one of the other patterns, the specified
fabric type can be found in the list that opens when you click on the small arrow
near the Fabric type button.
- Rotation restriction up to grain axis on pattern placement on the fabric for cutting. If you check « Rotate together
with all size » in the marker, the pattern will be rotated together with all other patterns in a specific size.
To set the rotation liberty of a pattern, you must click on the small arrow near the
field. You can choose one of the options in the opened list:
- No rotation – the pattern will have the same rotation in the marker; no rotation
will be allowed.
- Pattern rotation by 180°, 90° or 45° - allows pat tern rotation in the marker with
the mentioned angle.
- No restriction – allows pattern positioning in any position in the
marker. The most usual setting for patterns is 180 degrees freedom
If you check « Rotate entire bundle » the pattern will be rotated in the marker
together with all other patterns for the specific size.
To define flip restriction pattern placement on the fabric you must click on the small arrow near the field. In t
None – no pattern symmetrization in the marker is allowed
Flip to grain axis – allow pattern symmetrization in the marker according to grain axis.
Flip perpendicular to grain axis – allow pattern symmetrization in the marker perpendicularly to grain a
Total flip – allow pattern symmetrization in the marker both from the grain axis and perpendicularly on it.
You can set the pattern number and how many times the
pattern appear in the pattern; this can be set in the right
menu in “S”, “Fx”, “Fy” and “Fxy” boxes:
-“S” - here you set the number of simple pattern;
-“Fx” – here set the number of patterns flipped over Ox
axis
-“Fy” – here set the number of patterns flipped over Oy
axis
-“Fxy” – here set the number of patterns flipped over Ox
and Oy axis.
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An auxiliary pattern must be grouped together with the main pattern on which it depends. To group an auxiliary
pattern with the main pattern: move the auxiliary pattern over the main pattern, select the auxiliary pattern, hold
down SHIFT key and select the main pattern in the project then click on « Group the selected patterns » in Pattern
mode (see chapter 1.5.22). The auxiliary pattern will be displayed on plotter printing according to the dependencies
defined during the design step.
- Cut on CNC machine
An auxiliary pattern can be designed to be cut on the automatic cutting machine if is checked “Cut on CNC
machine” option in the right side menu of “Pattern” mode. This option is active only when an auxiliary pattern is
selected.
- Pattern information will be filled with information regarding the selected pattern; this information will be printed on
the pattern report, in the specifications area. In « Pattern » mode, click on the « Pattern information » button; in the
opened window you can fill the needed information. To save these specifications, click on « Accept » button; if you
want to cancel changes, you must click on « Quit » button
IMPORTANT: All these information are important and must be considered consequently. Any mistake made in
these options can seriously impair pattern printing and cut planning operations.
1.5.32 Multiple pattern properties visualization and modification in the same table
In « PATTERN » mode you can visualize and change properties for multiple patterns at the same time in a
specific table called „Pattern properties”. In the right side docker, click on « Pattern information table » button. If no
pattern was previously selected, this table contains the properties for all patterns in the current project. If only a
pattern is selected, then in the table you will find only the properties for the selected pattern. If you want the table to
display only the properties for some patterns (e.g. only the patterns from the base material) then you must click to
select the patterns while holding down SHIFT key (see chapter 1.5.1). In „Pattern properties” table you can also
change the properties for each pattern or simultaneously for a group of patterns.
In „Pattern properties” table, you have the possibility to search and find patterns according to them names. For
this, the user must type the pattern name or a group of letters that can be find in the pattern name, in the “Search”
field. After typing these letter, make a click on the “Search” button. After searching, all the patterns which has this
group of letters in their name will be identified and highlighted. The current number of these patters will be marked
with turquoise blue.
The “Pattern properties” table can be displayed from other mode tools, than “Pattern” mode, by pressing
F7 button from keyboard. The displayed table will contain all project pattern.
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To visualize the „Pattern properties” table, click on « Pattern information table » button in
the right side docker.
In this table you can visualize and modify simultaneously data regarding patterns: grading group, pattern position,
design mode (on the seam line or on the external cut line), fabric type, rotation and flip freedom, if the pattern is
auxiliary or not and information about the alignment groups.
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- Rotation – here you can find information regarding pattern rotation freedom from the grain axis
on pattern placement on fabric for cutting. If checked, in the marker the pattern will be rotated
together with all other patterns in the same size. To change a pattern rotation freedom you must
click on the small arrow near the specific field. In the opened list you can find the following
options:
- None – the pattern will have the same position in the marker; no rotation will be allowed
- Pattern rotation by 180°, 90° or 45° - allows pat tern rotation in the marker with the mentioned
angle.
- No restriction – allows pattern placement in any position in the marker.
- With measure – if checked, then in the marker the pattern will be rotated together with all other
patterns in the same size. To change this option you must check/uncheck the box in this column.
To change this option you must check/uncheck the box in this column.
- Flip – in the corresponding field, you can select information on pattern placement on fabric for
cutting purpose. To modify flip liberty on pattern placement on fabric, you must click on the small
arrow, near the specific field. In the opened list you can find the following options:
None – no symmetrization is allowed in the marker
Flip X – allow pattern symmetrization in the marker, on the grain axis.
Flip Y – allow pattern symmetrization in the marker, perpendicular to the grain axis
Total – allow pattern symmetrization in the marker, both on the grain axis and also perpendicular
on the grain axis.
- H shrink (%) – in the corresponding box of this column you must insert the value for the
horizontal contraction. The pattern displayed in the Gemini Pattern Editor will show the dimensions without
contraction.
- V shrink (%) - in the corresponding box of this column you must insert the value for the vertical contraction. The
pattern displayed in the Gemini Pattern Editor will show the dimensions without contraction.
- Auxiliary – If a pattern is defined as auxiliary then it will not appear in the this table
Auxiliary patterns are used to create the patterns in the project and are saved together. However they are not part
of the cutting plan for Gemini Cut Plan and are no placed in the marker in Gemini Nest Expert. If you check the
corresponding box in this column, at the next table opening, the pattern will not be displayed.
- H align group – the fields in this column gives you information regarding pattern distribution in a horizontal
alignment group.
- V align group – the fields in this column gives you information regarding pattern distribution in a vertical alignment
group.
To apply any change operated in this table you must click on « Accept » button. If you don’t want to apply changes
you must click on « Cancel » button.
Information in this table can be printed as a file named « Pattern Properties ». To print this file you must click on
« Print » button. To preview the file before printing, click on « Preview » button located down the « Pattern properties
» table. The document will contain the table with pattern properties together with information regarding the product
(type, size, patterns number, command, owner name, print date, save date and time.
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To change properties simultaneously on multiple patterns, you must first click to select the patterns; if you want to
select consecutive rows, click on the first row « No » to be selected then holding down SHIFT key and click on the
last row « No » to be selected; to select rows randomly, click on each row « No » to be selected while holding down
CTRL key « No ».
To select all patterns in a table, use the CTRL+A key combination. Property changes for one selected pattern will
automatically induce changes on all other selected patterns.
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1.6.1 Introduction
« Shape tool » mode is essential for design in Gemini Pattern Editor; here you will be able
to:
- Modify pattern shape
- Modify corner type and shape
- Adjust curved and linear segments
- Corner smoothing
- Point alignment, movement, rotation
- Beveling
- Add new point s on the pattern contour
- Bezier interpolation for segments from the pattern
perimeter
- Choose the pattern origin
To use the design functions from this mode you must first
understand the components of a pattern contour
A pattern contour is formed by:
- GRADED POINTS (red dots)
- CURVE POINTS (blue dots)
These two are liked by
- LINES
- BEZIER CURVES.
Between an end point and its corresponding control point there is a blue
dotted line that represents the tangent to the curve on the endpoint. After
some practice for curve adjustment you will see how easy is to achieve
the desired shape, by moving only two points. To make the Bezier curve
control points visible, enter the « Shape tool» mode and click on one of
the curve end points.
The control
Click with the left points and the Click on a
mouse button on tangents to the control point and
a curve end curves on the drag to modify
point end points will curve shape
be displayed
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When the mouse cursor have get over a point and this one can be selected, the point is marked by a red circle in
order to confirm that the point is under the cursor action area. Then you can realize the point selection and
movement.
These rules regarding graded or curve point movement are the same both for the mouse dragging and for the
position setting by keyboard arrows movement or coordinates setting.
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A point can be moved by left Hold down CTRL key to move the Hold down SHIFT key to move the
mouse button click and drag. Click point only on vertical and horizontal points along the segments on
on the left mouse button over the direction from the starting position. which the point is located
chosen point, move the point to the
new position and then release
the
mouse button
If during point movement you hold down ALT key, all points near that point will appear enhanced on the workspace
and will become magnetic. If you move the point near such a magnetic enhanced point, it will be attracted and
perfectly overlapped over it.
Magnetizing the points by using ALT key is very useful when you want to realize a perfect overlap of two patterns
on the contour. Thus, you can realize a perfect overlap for two patterns by overlapping the points from the first
pattern contour with the points on the second pattern contour.
The same magnetization function is available for control point movement that can be overlapped on other control
points.
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To move one or more points using the keyboard arrows, you must select the
points first. On each arrow key press (UP, DOWN, LEFT, RIGHT), the points
will move for 10 mm in the specific direction. If you hold down CTRL key while
to move points by 10mm steps in any direction.
pressing the keyboard arrows then the moving step will be only 1 mm so the If you hold down
movement will be more precise.
Point movement using the keyboard arrows is very useful for a fast pattern
then the moving step is smaller, of only 1mm
shape adjustments. At the same time you must watch the measurement table
to reach the needed quotes.
Horizontal (X axis) and vertical (Y axis) coordinates for each point are
registered according to the pattern origin that is represented by one of
the pattern points.
When you select a point in « Shape tool » mode, the point coordinates
from the origin are displayed in the upper part of the right side docker.
The point can be « moved to » another coordinates by changing the
values in the specific boxes. The numerical values can be positive or
negative, according to point position from the origin point.
After entering the new point coordinates you must press ENTER or to
click the « Move point to: » button, for the changes to be effective.
ATTENTION: if the moved point is the origin point, after movement its
coordinates remain X=0 and Y=0 because the pattern origin is displaced
together with this point.
A selected point can be moved horizontally and vertically from its actual
position. To do this, you must enter the displacement distances in the
specific boxes. For the changes to be effective, you must press ENTER
or click on « Move point with » button.
To visualize the curve angle tangent exit point and the curve angle tangent entry
point, you must click to select the interest point.
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In the field under the message « curve angle tangent exit point »
the curve angle tangent exit point is measured counterclockwise.
In the field under the message « curve angle tangent entry point »
the curve angle tangent entry point is measured counterclockwise.
You can enter a name for the selected point in the specific field « Point name ». The
point name can have maximum 10 characters.
The pattern origin is located in the Then click on « Set origin » button in The pattern origin has moved in the
lower left point. To move the pattern the lower part of the right side upper left point and the X and Y axes
origin in the upper left point, you docker. crosses this origin point. All
must first select the new point. coordinates for the other points were
automatically recalculated.
Select the line to be Click on « convert line to The line has been The curve shape can be
converted into a curve curve » button. converted to a curve; the modified by moving the
control points appear control points.
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A curve segment from the pattern contour can be converted into a line. The curve shape is lost and between the two
points appears a line.
Select the curve segment to be Click on « Convert curve to line» Between the two points, the curve was
converted to a line button converted to a line
CUSP points
CUSP points can be used between 2 curves, between 2 lines and between a
line and a curve.
SMOOTH points
There is a single tangent on the smooth
point. This tangent has two control points
whose movements are symmetrical. If
the point separates a curve from a line,
then the control point from the curve side
can move only along the line, so as the
corner remain smooth.
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To delete a point: click to select the point and then click the « Delete selected points » button or press on DELETE
key. A point can be rapidly deleted by a fast double click with the left mouse button. After deleting a point, the
pattern shape is changing and the Bezier curve that remains instead the point will approximate inaccurately the
previous contour.
Select the point to be deleted Click on « Delete selected points » The point was deleted; the pattern
ore press DELETE key contour is a little bit modified
following the point deletion
To add a new point click on the pattern contour where you want to add a new point and then click on « Add new
point ». A new point can be added by a mouse double click on the pattern contour. Adding a new point does not
change the pattern shape.
Click on the pattern contour where Click on the « Add new point » The new point has been added and
you want to add the new point button the pattern contour remains
unchanged
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You can change the Bezier curves shape by moving the control points or by dragging the curve by mouse until you
obtain the desired shape. When you move a control point by the mouse, you can hold down ALT key, for the moved
point to become magnetized and to perfect overlap on other control points.
Change a Bezier curve shape by mouse dragging. Click to select a curve and drag it by the Hold down
mouse. To get the curve to the desired shape, the operation can be repeated by dragging
from different points on that curve; however, there are situations when the shape can be
modified only by moving the control points.
to overlap a point over another more pre
The points on a pattern contour can be aligned. To align two or more points you must select them. It is important to
remember that the last selected point remains fixed and the other points will be aligned after it. Point alignment is
very useful to adjust and correct the digitized patterns.
Select the points Click on « Align points horizontally » All points are aligned horizontally
button from the last selected point
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Select the points Click on « Align points vertically » All points are aligned vertically from
button the last selected point
Align points rectilinear; On rectilinear alignment, the first and the last point selected on the pattern contour remain
fixed while the other points are aligned on the line defined by the two points.
Click on « Align points rectilinear » All points are aligned rectilinear between
Select the points button the first and the last selected points
A line or a curve between two points on a pattern contour can be divided in a pre-established number of equal
segments. To do this, click to select the contour segment to be divided in smaller parts and then click the « Divide a
segment in a given number of parts » button. A window will open; there you must enter the number of parts
(maximum 20), then click on OK. The selected segment will be divided by adding curve points.
If you want to divide a line or a curve in several equal segments you must select, besides the end
points, all the points between them, if any. Therefore, the segment or the curve will be divided in the
required number of parts, ignoring the already existing points. If a new point has the same position with
an already existing point, one of them will be deleted.
Select all the points in the area that will be The selected area was divided by adding
divided grading points, the already existing points
being ignored
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If a digitized pattern has a segmented contour and the curves appear irregular, Gemini Pattern Editor offers two
possibilities to improve the pattern quality.
1. Smoothing the polygon by transforming the lines into smooth curves.
2. Interpolation of the polygon lines into one or more Bezier curves.
The main difference between SMOOTHING and INTERPOLATION: during smoothing, no point on the curve is
deleted while during interpolation there are removed as many points as possible.
To smooth a part of a pattern contour, you must select the points on the segment and then click on « Smooth
contour with Bezier curves » button. As result, all lines will be converted to curves and the point type will be
set as
«SMOOTH POINT»
Irregular initial contour Select the points on the Click on « Smooth The result is an improved
segment to be smoothed contour with Bezier shape by converting the
curves » button. lines to curves and by
corner smoothing. No
point was
deleted
Irregular initial contour Select the points on the Click on « Interpolate the The result is an improved
segment to be interpolated selected segment » shape, obtained by total
by Bezier curves points removal from the
selected segment and by
approximation with a Bezier
curve
In "Shape Tool" it is possible to change the length of a segment by entering a new length.
This operation can be done by using "Change curve length" function by selecting two points on the pattern
contour, the segment between these two points (considered in clockwise direction from the first selected point)
beeing the one whose length will be changed.
After selecting the two points a window will appear, in which the following informations are displayed:
- the length of the selected segment (in "Length" column)
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- the difference between the length of the selected segment on the current size and the base size (called
"offset", in "offset" column)
- the difference between the length of the selected segment on the current size and the nearby size (called
"step", in "step" column)
Because there are a lot of possibilities to change the shape of a segment, after entering its new length, it is
necessary to choose an option. You can choose between:
- fixing the two selected points and reshape the curve between the two selected points.
- moving one of the selected points on different directions: horizontal, vertical, diagonal (the direction given
by the two selected points), tangent (the direction of the tangent of the selected point).
- moving both selected points on diagonal direction (the direction given by the two selected points).
By using this function, the length of the selected segment is modified according to the entered length and
the shape of the segment is modified according to the selected option.
The changing of the length of a segment can be done only on the base size (and on the other sizes is
modified automatically according to the grading values of the selected points) OR individually (manually) on each
size. If the changing of the segment length is done individually, on the sizes different than the base size, there are 2
possibilities:
- enter the desired length for the segment on each size
- enter the offset or step.
Examples for using different options from "Modify curve length" window.
1. To modify a shoulder line length on a front or a back pattern, you can use one of the following options: " First
diagonal", "Last diagonal" or "Both diagonal". According to the selected option, one of the points or both points will
move on the direction defined by the two selected points (the direction of the shoulder line).
To change a shoulder line length you have to go through the following the steps:
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2. To modify a length of an armhole on a front or a back pattern, you can use one of the following options: " First
tangent" or "Last tangent". According to the selected option, one of the points will move on the direction defined by
the tangent of that point.
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The points on a pattern contour are of two types: 1. grade points 2. curve points
The main differences between grade and curve points are listed below:
1. Grade points can be defined from the pattern origin or by anchoring on parametrical points. If a curve
point is defined from the pattern origin or is anchored to a parametrical point, then it transforms into a grade point.
2. Grade points have a grading table in which the point evolution from a size to another is clearly
defined. Curve points do not have a grading table; their evolution from a size to another is calculated on the
neighbor grade points.
3. When you move a graded point, the neighbor curve points are moved proportionally so as the contour
shape on the grade point sizes to be conserved. When you move a curve point, the other curve points remain
stable and the contour shape changes. (see chapter 1.6.4)
4. By pattern interpolation, most curve points (sometimes all of them) are removed, while graded points
remain unchanged. (see chapter 1.5.24 and 1.6.16)
Graded points are marked in red while the curve points are
marked in blue. To change a point type, click to select it and
then check the point type in the upper property bar.
IMPORTANT: - When a grade point defined from the pattern origin is transformed in point defined from a
parametrical point, its grading table is permanently lost and the grading rule will be taken from the anchor
parametrical point.
- When a curve point is transformed into curve point, its grading table is initialized based on the grading tables of
the closest grade points or based on the grading rules of the parametrical point.
- When a graded point is transformed in curve point, the grading table is permanently lost and its grading rule is
automatically calculated as for an usual curve point.
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If a pattern has a closed contour, then it is displayed filled. If the pattern has an open contour (the first and the last
point are not connected), then it will not be filled. A pattern with an open contour will be considered unfinished and
will not be considered when the pattern is prepared for cutting.
Attention!: It is possible that the first and the last point are overlapped but not connected. Only apparently the
pattern has a closed contour so it will be not filled.
To close a pattern perimeter you must find and select the first and the last point on the contour (see chapter 1.7.2)
and select them; to join the first and the last points on the contour, you must use the « Join selected points and
close perimeter » button. To reverse operation (pattern contour opening) you must select a point where the contour
will be opened and then you must click on « Open pattern contour in the selected point » button, just near the
joining button.
The pattern with an open contour is Click on « Join selected points and The result is a pattern with closed
unfilled. Select the first and the last close perimeter » button, to close the contour; it will be displayed filled.
point on the contour pattern contour.
Gemini Pattern Editor offers another function rarely met on other computer aided design programs for clothing:
Exact changes in a Bezier curve length. This function allows the accurate adjustment for the seam lines length so
as they will fit perfectly when the patterns are sewed together.
To change the Bezier curve length, you must first select the curve segment from the pattern contour. The actual
curve length will be displayed down the right side docker. The value in the specific field can be changed; after
changing it, press ENTER key to apply changes.
IMPORTANT: length adjustment must respect some limits, otherwise the pattern shape can be modified
inadequately. If you diminish the curve length you must respect the line length between the two points as a
minimum.
Select the curve Down the right side docker, the Enter a new value for curve Curve length was
segment for length actual curve length appear in length, then press ENTER adjusted
change the specific field
To round a pattern corner, you must first select the point that defines the corner. Then click on « Round corner»
button. A small window will open: here you must enter the radius for the corner rounding; then click on « Accept »
button. The corner will be rounded by point removal and replacement with an arch. The rounding radius must not be
too large (it must not exceed the pattern dimensions) in order to obtain reproducible results.
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Select the corner to be Click on « Round corner » Enter radius circle for As result, the corner is
rounded button corner rounding and click replaced by an arch
on « Accept » button
Gemini Pattern Editor uses two functions in order to create new points that are placed towards selected points.
This function permits to be created new gradation points on the perimeter of the pattern. These points will be placed
at certain distance to one or more graded points or a curve.
The function is used generally in order to create new patterns, starting from a base pattern. It is used for creating
points necessary for notch declaration.
Select the point towards Press “Create a Will be introduced the distance The new point was created
you want to add the new new point at a given where you want to be created the at the introduced value,
point distance from a new point and press Accept. If the measured on the contour
selected point” distance is a positive value the line.
point will be added in clock wise, if
the distance is a negative value the
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In order to create a point from multiple points, the user must select the points and press the button “Create a new
point at a given distance from a selected point”. In the window that will appear the user must type the distance
between the selected points and the points that will be added, than press “Accept”. If the user wants to add the
points in counter clock wise than should be introduced negative values.
In order to create more points from multiple selected points, the user must select the pints from which will be
created the new ones and press the button “Create a new point at a given distance from a selected point” In the
window that will appear the user must type the distance between the selected points and the new points that will be
added, spared by space, than button “Accept” must be pressed.
Select de points from which Press the button “ The values for adding the new The new points were
will be created the new Create a new point at a points are typed with space created, the distance was
ones. Points selection will be given distance from a between them, and after that will respected on the contour
done by window selection selected point” be pressed Accept button. line.
ore by selecting each point It is possible to introduce negative
and keeping the SHIFT values in order to change the
key direction of adding the point.
pressed.
This function is helpful in order to create a point at a certain percentage between two selected points. The user
must select two points by the selection window or by keeping SHIFT key pressed and click each point. After
selection the button “Create a new point at a certain percentage between two selected points”. In the new window
that will appear the user must enter the certain percentage that will give the position of the new pint and than button
“Accept” must be pressed. The distance is measured on the contour line, always in cock wise. This function doesn’t
allow to be introduced negative values. In order to change the direction of adding the new point, the selection must
be done again, but in reversed way.
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Select the points from Press “Create a new Enter the percentage that will The new point was created at
which will be created the point at a certain give the position of the new the given percentage, measured
new point. Selection can percentage between e point. Negative values can’t be on the contour line.
be done by selection selected points” entered.
window or by keeping
pressed SHIFT key and
click each point.
One or more points can be rotated around another point, at a specific angle. To perform this operation, first select
the points to be rotated then hold down SHIFT key and click to select the point for rotation. Then click on « Rotate a
group of points around the last selected point » button. A small window opens; here you must enter the rotation
angle for the selected points; then click on « OK » button. If the angle value is positive, the rotation will be
clockwise; if the angle value is negative, the rotation will be counterclockwise.
First select the points Hold down SHIFT key Click on « Rotate a Enter the rotation The selected points
to be rotated and select the point group of points around angle: positive for will be rotated with the
that will be the rotation the last selected point clockwise rotation specified angle around
center. » button. or negative for the defined rotation
counterclockwise center.
rotation, then click
on « OK » button
1.6.25 Rotate pattern until the line between two selected points becomes horizontal
In « SHAPE TOOL » mode, you can rotate a pattern so as the line between two selected points becomes
horizontal or vertical.
You must select the two points to be horizontally or vertically aligned then click one of the options of
"Rotate pattern until the line between two selected points becomes horizontal" function: "Align horizontal" or "Align
vertical". The pattern will be rotated and positioned until the line between the two selected points becomes
horizontal or vertical or vertical.
This function is useful when you want to align the grain axis or when you want to grade two points on an
oblique segment (while it is difficult to calculate the movement coordinates for each size).
If you want to draw the grain axis to be parallel with one of the contour segments, you must select the two
points on the contour and align them horizontally or vertically (use the "Rotate pattern until the line between two
selected points becomes horizontal" button). After you have aligned the two points, draw a perfectly horizontal or
vertical grain axis by holding down CTRL key while drawing.
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If you want to grade a segment that have to move parallel from the base size (for the other sizes), it is
recommended to make this segment horizontal or vertical in order to simplify grading rules setting. To do this, select
the points that define this segment and click on "Rotate pattern until the line between two selected points becomes
horizontal" function. The pattern will be rotated and positioned with the shoulder line horizontally or vertically.
1.6.26 Bulge
In «SHAPE TOOL» mode you can bulge a pattern in a mobile point (opening point) according to a hinge point or
you can make a multi-bulge in several mobile points according to several hinge points.
To bulge a pattern in one mobile point according to one hinge point first you must select the mobile point, then hold
down the SHIFT key and click on the hinge point for bulging; then click on «Bulge» button. A new «Bulge settings»
window opens. Here you can set the bulging type: with an angle or with a distance.
To bulge a pattern in several points, first the «Bulge» function has to be selected. A message window appears
which contains the operations which has to be made for multi-bulge: «Select the breaking point» and «Select a
fixed point different by the breaking point». When this message window opens, it contains on the bottom side only
the «Exit» button in case you want to cancel the multi-bulge operation. The cursor of the mouse changes to
selection cursor. Next you have to select the mobile- and hinge points in the following way: select first mobile point,
select first hinge point, then select the second mobile point and the second hinge point, then continue selecting the
next mobile points and hinge points the same way until the last mobile- and hinge point. After selecting all mobile-
and hinge points press the «Apply» button from the message window. A new window, called «Bulge settings»
appears where you can set the bulging type: with an angle or with a distance. If only one value is entered in
«Angle» or «Distance» fields, it will be split equally for the selected mobile points (e.g. if you selected 3 mobile
points, the entered value will be divided with 3 and with the resulted value the pattern will be bulged in all 3 selected
points). If the mobile points have different bulge values, the values can be entered in the «Angle» or «Distance»
fields, at the same time, separated by
«SPACE» character. These bulging values has to be entered in the same order you selected the points (first
selected point will be bulged with first entered value, second selected point will be bulged with second entered
value, ).
In the same setting window you can set the bulge type: with unprocessed contour or with smooth contour. After
setting the bulge parameters, click on « Accept » button
1. 2.
Multi-bulge
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2 2
A segment can be enlarged into many points using a new method called “Bulge Plus”. Using this method, the
user won’t have to create any more the points where he wants to apply the enlargements and the hinge points; he
will have only to input the bulge numbers that will be applied on the selected segment. These enlargements
obtained in this way, will be applied at equal distances one from another on the selected segment. The bulges
cutting lines will be created automatically as a bisector of the bulge angle. Also, the user has the possibility to
indicate an inclination angle for each cutting line apart.
For the enlargements obtained in this way, the user can set as well fixed values and different values for the first and
the last defined bulges. In the second case, the program will apply progressive values for the intermediary applied
bulges.
In SHAPE TOOL working mode, you can close automatically a bulge or a fold.
This function is useful when you need to eliminate the plus from a pattern. For example, if you need to
transform a model with a large silhouette in a model with tight silhouette than you can remove automatically the
plus from large model by using “Close bulge” function
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For this, you must set four points, which are determining the plus of fabric. Than you have to make click on
“Close bulge” function from SHAPE TOOL working mode and you have to select the points that are determining the
area that must be eliminated from pattern. After you done to select, the indicated area will be eliminated
automatically and the remained parts of the pattern will be joined in a new pattern.
Attention! Even if you need to close a bulge created with “Bulge” function, you have to select four points.
Because you have only tree points that are determining the bulge you must select the hinge point twice.
You must select four points that are determining the surplus
area: first point of the first closing line, second point of the first
closing line, first point of the second closing line and second
point of the second closing line.
After you select those four points, the area between them will
be eliminated and the remained parts of the pattern will be
joined in a new pattern.
1.6.28 Fullness
In « SHAPE TOOL » mode you can change a pattern by bending two of its edges, from which one is bulged on a
defined distance.
This function is very useful to design a waist band, a belt, a collar
etc To realize this type of bulging, you may use the following
elements:
- a segment on a line or on a curve on which you will apply the bulge process (following bulging, this segment will
bend)
- a segment on a line or on a curve that will be transformed to a curve but keeps the same initial length.
- a segment on a line or on a curve that remain fixed.
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You must select the side that remain fixed. You must
move the mouse cursor over this edge and click on it
while it becomes red and the OK appears near the
cursor.
A French curve is a drawing tool composed by several curves with different shape and is used for drawing flat
curves.
In «Shape Tool» you have the possibility to add a French curve on a pattern. This function is useful for an easy
drawing of contours like armhole, sleeve curve, neck curve, the shape of the side seam.
Before adding French curves on a pattern, a collection of the most used shapes has to be created. This means
that first the user draws the patterns which contain the contours to be used later on other patterns, then he saves
each contour in a library. From this library he can always load the saved contours to use on other patterns.
To add a French curve on a pattern the following steps have to be made:
- extract a French curve by pressing the arrow of «Add a French curve to the selected pattern» function and
choosing the «Extract French curve» option from the appearing submenu.
- add a saved French curve on an another pattern by pressing the arrow of «Add a French curve to the
selected pattern» function and choosing the «Add French curve» option from the appearing submenu.
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In «Shape Tool» select the pattern on which you will extract the
French curve.
Cursor
From the appearing submenu chose «Extract French curve»
option. The mouse cursor changes into selection cursor.
Attention: by extracting a french curve, only the shape of the contour and the contour points (graded-
and curve points) are saved. Grading rules and notches are not saved.
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1.
3.
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Attention: after adding a french curve on a pattern the points of the new contour will not be graded.
The dimensions of the pattern which the french curve is added on does not have to be the same with the
dimensions of the pattern which the french curve was extracted from. If the patterns used for extracting and adding
french curves have different dimensions, the dimensions of the added french curve will be calculated proportionally
to keep exactly the shape of the extracted contour.
Operations which can be made in «View french curves» window.
In «View french curves» window several operations can ce made with the existing french curves: can
be deleted, moved up or down on the list and flipped.
These operations can be made only during an extraction or addition of a french curve, because the «View french
curves» window appears at the extraction or addition of a french curve.
To view this window the necessary steps for extracting or adding a french curve has to be followed: select a
pattern, press the arrow of «Add a french curve to the selected pattern» function, select one of the options:
«Extract french curve» or «Add french curve», select the 2 endpoints of a curve, select the contour,
enter the name of the french curve (if extraction will be done) and press «OK» or ENTER (also in case
of extraction). After these steps the «View french curves» window appears.
For deleting a french curve first you have to select the french curve from the list on the left side, check on the right
side of the window if the selected french curve is the one you want to delete, if so, press the «Delete» button. After
deleting the french curve and pressing «Ok», the deleted french curve can not be recovered any more.
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The position of the french curves in the list can be changed by moving up or down. To move up or down first select
from the list, the french curve to be moved, then press «Down» or «Up» button on the bottom side of the window.
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If the user want just to manage the French curve list than he can open the “View
French curves” window directly from Gemini Pattern Editor general settings
window. To open the general settings window you must click on the written menu
“Settings ». In general settings window you have to make click on “View french
curve” button
1.6.30 Defining the projection areas
The projection is represented by a section from the pattern contour, copied and translated on another part on
the pattern contour having the porpoise to view that section as it will be in the final product.
There are two functions in “Shape tool mode” that can help the user to create a projection:
2. „Show the defined perpendicular projection on the selected pattern” depending on the
situation as it follows below.
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Cursor
From the opened menu choose the “Declare
projection” option.
The mouse cursor will have the selection
shape.
Cursor To reposition the pattern projection, the user must use the “Declare projec
When this function is active the cursor has the selection shape.
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To reposition the pattern projection, the user must select other two points from the same pattern or on another pattern from the same proje
How to declare the pattern projection on another pattern from the same project
For this are required two patterns: A pattern from which the projection will be moved and B pattern, to which the projection will be moved.
To move the projection from A pattern, on the B project must be selected the (3) and (4) points.
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Across the middle of the The path between the (3) and (4)
An imaginary line imaginary line (A) will be points in clockwise represent the
Select the (1) and (2) (A) is drawn drawn a perpendicular line projected area. This happens
points. between the two (B). The perpendicular will because the point (1) was defined
selected points. intersect the pattern in the in that area. The projection will be
(3) and (4) points. done along the (3-4)
perpendicular.
Change the
projection
shape and
magnetize
both contours
A.
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B.
C.
In “Shape” tool mode the user can reshape theThe projected section
result of the A,byB,reshaping
C stepsthe projection. in t
is displayed
Thus: The areas from the projection marked with A, B
A fig. Move the points freely or using Alt key to overlap them perfectly on other points from the othe
B fig. Move the tangents freely or using Alt key pressed to overlap them perfectly on the other t
C fig. Move free the pattern projection contour by mouse drag.
Firs define the
perpendicularprojection between the (1) and (2) points.
The user must use Ctrl key to assure that the right point is selected, when he wants to select the projection
contour into a point having the position common to another point from the original pattern shape in “Shape” or
“Measurements” tool modes. Thus, when Ctrl key is pressed the projection contour will be first selected and when
it is not selected the original contour will have priority to the selection.
To reshape the projection the user must select it with To reshape the original contour on a section where it
mouse click together with Ctrl key pressed. overlaps with the projection, the user must select the
contour using only simple click.
Note: The measurements made on the projection in “Measurements” tool mode cannot be added in the
“Measurements table”.
Warning! The Ctrl key for projection selection can be used only for those cases when the projection remains
on the source pattern!
Warning! When the user works with projections on a model worked in MTM mode, those points involved in
these modifications will loose the connection to the geometrical layer!
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In “Shape” tool mode, the user can symmetrize a pattern or a part of it after a segment.
The user must select the first point of the segment along to
which the pattern will be symmetrized.
After making the last step the user has two options:
1. The user can select a third point which will indicate
the distance for the projection (the distance
between the segment defined by the first two
selected points and the third point will give the
2. The projection obtained using two points and a distance: projected area).
or
2. The user can indicate the distance by inputting a
value. This value will be measured staring with the segment
indicated at the first two points inside the pattern.
To define the distance in this way, the user must click
on the “Apply” button after the third message appears. In
the next moment a new window will appear where the user
must input the desired distance value.
The user must press the OK button after inputting the value
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Note: The line along to which the pattern is symmetrized will be converted into an internal line.
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1.6.33. Direct anchoring (connecting) of the graded points to the geometrical layer.
In "Shape Tool" there is a possibility to change the type of a graded point from "pattern origin" to "geom point" by
selecting a graded point from pattern contour and a point from geometrical layer (created in "Made to Measure
Tool"). To do this operation, in "Shape Tool" you have to select a pattern on which you want to work and then press
"Connect graded points to the geometrical layer" function. Next, you have to select the graded point from the
pattern contour, which has to be defined as geometric point, then you have to select the corresponding point from
the geometrical layer. After this operation the selected point will automatically be defined as geometric point and the
grading steps of this point will be calculated automatically, according to the increasing step of the dimension, used
to define the point in the geometrical layer.
To define a point as geometric point, the following steps have to be done:
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- repeat steps 1 and 2 described above, until you anchor (connect) all the desired graded points of the selected pattern
to the geometrical layer.
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To enter this working mode, you must click on « DRAW TOOL» button.
The cursor for this mode is
1.7.1 Introduction
Gemini Pattern Editor has two ways to create new patterns: by digitization or by DRAWING. Drawing
supposes the presence of a pattern whose shape will be reproduced without requirements for knowledge about
pattern design. To build new patterns from scratch you must have enough knowledge to create patterns. The
computer and the Gemini Pattern Editor program can only assist the designer in order to facilitate his and to
increase the design accuracy. The time required for a computer assisted base pattern design is reduced to half by
comparison with the manual design; grading a pattern assisted by computer is 4 times faster than the manual
grading.
To build a new pattern you must draw lines and free points, and use different functions to set distances,
angles and movements. Gemini Pattern Editor offers also some special functions to draw circles and ellipses
together with rectangles and squares.
The easiest mode to create a new pattern is the free drawing. Enter the « DRAW TOOL» mode and
activate the corresponding function to draw the next element. Click on « Draw free or assisted (with points and
lines) » button if you want to create a line.
Use one of the next functions:
“Draw free or assisted (with points and
curves)” “Draw arc by 3 points”
“Draw arc by 2 points and radius”
“Draw arc by 2 points and angle”
“Add French curve to pattern
contour”
if you want to draw or a add a new curve to the pattern.
Pick one of the drawing functions and make a click somewhere in the work space to draw freely. A new
point is set; this will be the origin point of the new pattern. Move the cursor by moving the mouse to the next point
and click again on the left mouse button. After each cursor (mouse) movement, at each left mouse click, a new
point will be applied and it will be automatically joined with previous by a line or by a curve. During freely drawing
you can select any function from draw tool bar. For example, after creating a straight line you can pick up the “Draw
free or assisted (with points and curves)” to create a curve next time.
Repeat previous
operation; at each click, a
Click with the left
Move the cursor to new point will be added.
mouse button in a
Click on « Draw free or assisted the next point and During the drawing
free workspace
(with points and lines) » button. click with the left process, the user can
area. The first point
mouse button choose any function from
is set.
draw tool mode mentioned
above.
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1st choice: finish drawing by pattern contour closure; you 2nd choice: finish drawing without pattern contour
must continue the drawing to reach again the first point; closure; click with the right mouse button after inserting
when the cursor overlaps the first point, near it appears the last point; the pattern contour will remain opened
and the pattern will stay unfilled.
the perimeter closure symbol ; click on the first
point
to close the pattern; it will fill with the default color.
A pattern with an open contour (unfilled) can be continued by drawing new points and lines. First enter the «
PATTERN » mode, click to select the incomplete pattern, then enter again the « DRAW TOOL» mode then click on
one of the ends of the pattern contour; the drawing will continue as previously described.
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1.7.4 Use CTRL, SHIFT and ALT keys for free drawing.
Even if it is fast and easy to use, the free drawing as described in chapter 1.7.2 must be assisted because you
cannot create accurate patterns with precise dimensions only by free drawing.
To obtain higher accuracy in new point placement, you can use CTRL, SHIFT and ALT keys. If you hold down
one of these keys while drawing a new line, some constraints appear regarding the absolute or relative line angle or
the position of the next point.
If you hold down CTRL key as you draw, the next segment will be perfectly horizontal, vertical or oblique
oriented on predefined angles (15, 30, 45, 60, 75 degrees) from the workspace coordinates.
Hold down
If you hold down CTRL key as you
draw, the next segment can be rotated
only on fixed angles from the
workspace coordinates
as you draw for the next line to be directed under a precise angle from the workspac
If you hold down SHIFT key as you draw the next line will be perfectly perpendicular or under a predefined angle
(15, 30, 45, 60, 75 degrees) from the previous line.
Hold down
If you hold down SHIFT key as you
draw, the next line will be perfectly
perpendicular or under a predefined as you draw for the next line to be directed under a pr
angle from the previous line
If you hold down ALT key as you draw the next point will be attracted and perfectly overlapped on the points on
other pattern; thus you can fit the new pattern contour on a preexisting one
Hold down
as you draw to overlap the next point on the existing points on other patterns
Create a new pattern whose contour For a perfect overlap of the points in
must precisely follow the contour of the new pattern over the points in the
an existing pattern. old pattern, hold down ALT key as
drawing. The old pattern points will
become magnetic and will attract the
new points to overlap them on.
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For a precise pattern drawing, with exact quotes, you have two options:
A. for the next drawn line, you will be able to set the length and angle according to system coordinates or to a
previous line (Set properties for next line)
or
B. for the next point you draw, you will be able to set the X and Y coordinates to the pattern origin point or to the
last placed point. (Set properties for next point)
Check « Angle » then type the angle Check « Length » then type the Check both « Angle » and
value and press ENTER. If the length value and press ENTER. « Length », set the corresponding
angle is set according to system When you go back with the cursor on length and angle for the next
coordinates you must check the workspace, the segment length is segment. By setting the angle
« Absolute », while if the angle is coerced to the given length and the (direction) and length, the new
expressed from the previous line you end point of the line slides on a circle segment is already fixed on the
must check the corresponding whose radius is the same with workspace. To apply the next
option. segment length. segment, click on « Apply » button or
When you go back with the cursor move the cursor back on the
on the workspace, the direction for workspace (the point will be
the line you are drawing is coerced completely immobilized and will not
to the given angle and the end point follow the cursor anymore)and click
of the line slides along this direction. on the left mouse button click.
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For a computer assisted drawing based on the parameters of the next point, you must
check the « next point » option in the right side menu « Coerce to ». After you check
this option, the specific option boxes are activated and you can enter the coordinates
for the new point according to the pattern origin or to the previous point.
To create a point based coordinates from To create a point at a distance from the
the pattern origin, click with the left last placed point, click with the left
mouse button in one of the boxes that mouse button in dX / dY box, enter the
corresponds to X / Y axes, enter the horizontal / vertical distance from the
coordinates for the new point and then last placed point and then click on
click on « Apply » button. A new point will « Apply » button. A new point will
appear on the workspace, on the appear on the workspace, on the
specified coordinates. specified distances.
In Gemini Pattern Editor you can draw curves. To do this you must
access “Draw Tool” and press the button “Draw free or assisted (with
points and curves).
Click with the left mouse button in a free workspace area. A new
point is set; this will be the origin point of the new pattern. Move the cursor by moving the mouse to the next point
and click again on the left mouse button. After each cursor (mouse) movement, at each left mouse click, a new
point will be applied and it will be automatically joined with previous by a curve. Between last two points will be
drawn temporary a straight line. The shape of the curve will be defined by the last a added point.
Click on « Draw free or Click with the left Move the Repeat previous operation; at each
assisted (with points and mouse button in a free cursor to the next click, a new point will be added.
curves) » button. workspace area. The point and click with Between drawn points will be created
first point is set the left curves.
mouse button
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1.7.7 Use CTRL, SHIFT and ALT keys for drawing free the curves
To obtain higher accuracy in new point placement, you can use CTRL, SHIFT and ALT keys. If you hold down
one of these keys while drawing a new curve, some constraints appear regarding the absolute or relative line angle
or the position of the next point.
If you hold CTRL key as you draw, the next line which define the curve will be constraint to an angle of 15
degrees, vertical or oblique oriented on predefined angles (15, 30, 45, 60, 75 degrees) from the workspace
coordinates.
Hold down
If you hold down SHIFT key as
you draw, the next line which define
the curve will be perfectly
perpendicular or under a predefined as you draw for the next curve to be directed under a
angle from the previous line
If you hold down ALT key as you draw the next point will be attracted and perfectly overlapped on the points on
other pattern; thus you can fit the new pattern contour on a preexisting one.
Hold down
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Attention: You can set quotes and dimensions for the points that are defining the curve not for the curve.
For a precise pattern drawing, with exact quotes, you have two options:
A. For the next line which define the curve you draw, you will be able to set the length and angle according to
system coordinates or to a previous line (Set properties for next line)
Or
B. For the next point you draw, you will be able to set the X and Y coordinates according to pattern origin or to
the last point. (Set properties for next point)
A. Draw a curve by constraining to the next line
For a computer assisted drawing based on the parameters of the next line, you must
check the « next line » option in the right side menu « Set properties for: ». After you
check this option, the specific option boxes are activated and you can enter the length
and angle for the next line which defines the curve that will be drawn.
Set the length for the segment Set the length and the angle for
Set the angle for the segment
defined by the first and the last the segment defined by the first and
defined by the first and the last point
point from the curve that will be the last point from the curve that will
from the curve that will be drawn. drawn. be
drawn.
Check « Angle » then type the angle Check « Length » then type Check both « Angle » and
value and press ENTER. If the angle is the length value and press « Length », set the corresponding
set according to system coordinates you ENTER. When you go back with length and angle for the next segment.
must check « Absolute », while if the the cursor on the workspace, By setting the angle (direction) and
angle is expressed from the previous the segment length is coerced to length, the new segment is already
line you must check the corresponding the given length and the end fixed on the workspace. To apply the
option. point of the curve slides on a circle next segment, click on « Apply » button
When you go back with the cursor whose radius is the same with or move the cursor back on the
on the workspace, the direction for the segment workspace (the point will be completely
curve you are drawing is constrained to length. immobilized and will not follow the
the given angle and the end point of the cursor anymore)and click on the left
curve slides along this direction. mouse button click.
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For a computer assisted drawing based on the parameters of the next point, you
must check the « next point » option in the right side menu « Set properties for». After
you check this option, the specific option boxes are activated and you can enter the
coordinates for the new point according to the pattern origin or to the previous point.
A French curve is a drawing tool composed by several curves with different shape and is used for drawing flat
curves.
In «Draw tool mode» you have the possibility to add a French curve on pattern, during drawing process. This
function is useful for an easy drawing of contours like armhole, sleeve curve, neck curve, the shape of the side
seam etc.
Before adding French curves on a pattern, a collection of the most used shapes has to be created. This means
that first the user draws the contours to be used later on other patterns, and then he saves each contour in a library.
From this library he can always load the saved contours to use on other patterns. Use the “Extract French curve”
function from “Shape tool mode” as it is described in the 1.6.28. Chapter.
To add a French curve on a pattern during drawing process, pick up the “Add French curve to pattern contour”
and select one of the two edges from the pattern and then the second one. A new window will be displayed after
selecting both points where you want to add the French curve, called “View French curves”. The user can select
from this window the desired French curve shape.
Add a French curve to the selected pattern
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Note: It is not necessary for the current pattern, to have the same dimension as the original one, from which
the French curve was extracted. Before adding it on the selected pattern, the French curve will be resized
proportionally with the distance between the indicated points.
The user can open the “View French curves” window from Gemini Pattern
editor settings if wants just to review or to take a look on the list. Make a click on
the “Settings” from the written menu to open the settings window and then on
the “View French curves” button to open the “View French curves” window.
In Gemini Pattern Editor, you can create arcs by three points. For this, make a
click on the “Draw arc by 3 points” function from “Draw tool mode”.
This point represents the first point form a new pattern and also the pattern
origin. After this, move the cursor in the place where you want to create the second
point and make a click to create it. A curve will be drawn between the two points. For
the third point, make a click in the work area, where you want to pace it. The result will
be an arc defined by three points.
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Make a right mouse click to end up the arc drawing. In this case the pattern contour will be opened and it won’t
be filled with color.
To continue drawing the pattern with no interruption, select another function from Draw tool bar. The new
element will be drawn connected to the arc created previously.
1.7.11 Use CTRL, SHIFT, ALT keys to draw freely an arc by 3 points:
To draw more precise an arc, you can use the CTRL, SHIFT and ALT key. You can draw the arc by
constraining the absolute angle or the angle between the line defined by first and last drawn point and the third
point position by keeping pressed one of these keys.
Keep CTRL pressed during drawing the arc, to constrain the angle between the line defined by the second and
third drawn point from 15 to 15 degrees related to the work space coordinates.
Hold down
Hold down SHIFT key, as you
draw the line defined by the last
drawn point and the next one as you draw, for the
which complete the arc. In this next line defined by the
way, the line can be rotate only second and the third
under predefined angles related drawn point to be
to the previous line directed under a precise
prolongation, line defined by the angle from the previous
first and the second drawn line defined by the first
point. and the second drawn
point which defines the
The rotation step is of 15°; first curve.
thus, the angle will be only of
0°, 15°, 30°, 45°, 60°, 75°, 90°
from
the line determinate by the
first and the second drawn
point which helps to create
Keep Alt key pressed as you draw the arc points, and the next drawn point, will be attracted and overlapped on
the points from other patterns.
Hold down
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You can use an arc created by three points if you want to enlarge the
neck whole. The arc points will be overlapped over some shoulder points
and an internal point. Keep Alt key pressed to overlap perfect the arc points
over
the front side points.
1.7.12 Draw arc by three points using precise quotas and dimensions
Warning: the quotas and formulas refer to the line determinate by two drawn points and not to the curves
dimensions placed between the two points.
Check the “next line” option from the right side menu to draw assisted by
computer constraining to the next line. When the “next line” setting is checked
the fields where you can complete the angle and the length becomes active.
Check the “Angle” setting, Check the « Length» setting and Check both settings “Angle”
and then fill with the angle value then fill with the desired dimension and “Length” and then fill both
the corresponding field. Press for length the corresponding filed. fields: the angle and the length,
Enter after completing the angle. After this, press Enter to validate the with the desired values for the
Check the “Absolute” setting if the given dimension. next segment defined by the
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angle is defined related to the When the cursor returns in the second and the third drawn point
workspace coordinates and the work space, the segment length from the arc that will be drawn
“To the previous line” setting, if defined by the second and the third next. When the angle is defined,
the angle is defined related to the drawn arc point will be constrained it means that the direction is
line defined by the first and the according to the inserted length. indicated. This setting together
last drawn point. The point that follows to be drawn with the length is giving precise
When the cursor returns in next slides along a circle with the coordinates for the next point
the work space, the line same radius. position. Press Apply to draw the
determinate by the first and the segment according to the given
last drawn point which defines the coordinates or, return with the
current drawn curve, will be cursor in the work space to fix
constrained according to the the pint position by click.
given angle and the next point
to be
drawn slides along this direction.
To draw assisted by the program using coordinates of the next point you have to check « next point » option from right side menu from « Draw
You have two possibilities to enter the coordinates of the next point of the curve:
1. X and Y coordinate relative to pattern origin point.
2. dX and dY coordinates relative to last entered point.
Adding a new point of the arc Adding a new point of the arc
using coordinates relative to the using coordinates relative to the
pattern origin point. last entered point.
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In Gemini Pattern Editor, you can create arcs by two points and radius.
For this, make a click on the “Draw arc by 2 points and radius” function from
“Draw tool mode”.
After activating this function, make a click in the work area to draw a new
point. After this, move the cursor in the place where you want to create the
second point and make a click to create it. A curve will be drawn between the
two points and then, move the cursor in the place where you want to create
the
next point and make a click there. The third point will be placed on the arc between the first two points. This point
will give the arc depth. The result is an arc defined by two points and a radius.
Make a click on the «Draw Make a click in Move the cursor to Move the cursor into
arc by two points and radius” the work area to the next point position, the third point position
button. create the firs point and make a click to and make a click to
which defines the create it. An arc will be create it. This point will
arc. drawn between the first give you the arc depth.
and the second created
point.
Make a right click to end up drawing the arc and the pattern contour will remain opened.
Select another function from the second tool bar in «Draw » tool mode to continue drawing the pattern with no
interruption. The new function will keep the mouse cursor linked to the last drawn point, and you can apply it.
1.7.14 Use CTRL, ALT keys to draw freely an arc by 2 points and radius:
To draw more precise an arc, you can use the CTRL and ALT key. Keep one of these two keys to constrain the
angle between the line defined by the first two drawn points and the work space coordinates.
If you will keep Ctrl pressed during drawing the second arc point, the line defined by the first and the second
drawn point will be constrained to an angle from15 to 15 degrees (15, 30, 45, 60, 75 degrees) related to the space
work coordinates.
Hold down
If you hold down CTRL key as you draw the second point which forms the arc, the line betwe
The rotation step is of 15°; thus, the angle between the new and the previous lines will be on
90° from the workspace coordinates.
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Keep Alt key pressed as you draw the arc points, and the next drawn point, will be attracted and overlapped on
the points from other patterns.
Hold down
as you draw to
overlap the next
point on the
existing points
The « Draw arc by two points and radius» function, can be used to create the on other patterns
trousers pocket shape. First two arc points will be overlapped on points from the pattern
contour and the third one will give the pocket shape. To make the overlapping between
the arc and the pattern points, use the Alt key.
1.7.15 Draw arc by 2 points and radius using precise quotas and dimensions
Warning: the quotas and formulas refer to the line determinate by two drawn points and not to the curves
dimensions placed between the two points.
There are two ways to create an arc by two points and radius:
A. Precise the length and the inclination angle for the line defined by the first and the second drawn point, related
to the work space coordinates. (Constrained to the next line)
B. Precise for the second drawn point the horizontal and vertical coordinates related to the pattern origin (meaning
related to the first drawn point in this case) (Constrain to the next point)
C. Precise the radius for the third drawn point. (Radius constraining)
A. Draw arc by two points and radius by constraining to the next line
Check the “next line” option from the right side menu to draw assisted by
computer constraining to the next line. When the “next line” setting is checked the
fields where you can complete the angle and the length becomes active.
You must check the “Next line” setting from the right side setting to draw assisted
by computer upon next line parameters defined by the first two drawn points. When
this setting is checked the boxes with settings for the next line meaning the angle and
the length will become active.
Setting the length for the next Setting the length and the
Setting the angle for the next
segment defined by the first and angle for the next segment defined
segment defined by the first two points
the second drawn point of the by the first and the second drawn
which defines the current drawn arc. point of the current drawn arc.
current
drawn arc.
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Check the “Angle” setting, and Check the « Length» setting Check both settings “Angle”
then fill with the angle value the and then fill with the desired and “Length” and complete the
corresponding field. Press Enter after dimension for length the corresponding fields with the
completing the angle. Check the corresponding filed. After this, desired values for the segment
“Absolute” setting if the angle is defined press Enter to validate the given defined by the first and second
related to the workspace coordinates. dimension. point which determinates the next
When the cursor returns in the work When the cursor returns in the drawn arc. Because the angle and
space, the line determinate by the first work space, the segment length the length are defined it means that
and the last drawn point is constrained defined by the first and the second next segment implicit the next point
to the set angle, and the next point to point which defines the next drawn is completely fixed. Click on
be drawn will slide along this direction. arc will be constrained to given “Apply” button to draw the next
dimension. The next point to be point or return the cursor in the
drawn will slide along the circle with workspace, in this case, the point
a radius equal with the segment will be placed
length. into a fixed position and you can
make a click to create it.
B. Draw arc by two points and radius by constraining to the next point
Check the “next point” option from the right side menu to draw assisted by
computer constraining to the next point. When the “next point” setting is checked the
fields where you can complete the x and y coordinates becomes active.
In this case, the coordinates related to the next point or related to the work space
coordinates are the same.
You have two possibilities to enter the coordinates of the next point of the curve:
1. X and Y coordinate relative to pattern origin point.
2. dX and dY coordinates relative to last entered point.
Adding a new point of the arc Adding a new point of the arc using After you entered the
using coordinates relative to the coordinates relative to the last entered coordinates of the new
pattern origin point. point. point press
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Check the «Radius » option after creating first two arc points to constrain the
thirds point to a given radius. When the « Radius » setting is checked, the radius
length field becomes active. You can insert here the radius dimension for creating
the next arc.
In Gemini Pattern Editor, you can create arcs by two points and a
starting angle. For this, make a click on the “Draw arc by 2 points and
angle” function from “Draw tool mode”.
After activating this function, make a click in the work area to draw a
new point. This point represents the first point form a new pattern and
also the pattern origin. After this, move the cursor in the place where you
want to create the second point and make a click to create it. A curve will be drawn between the two points and a
tangent will be linked to the first point. This tangent can be used to establish the staring angle for the next to be
drawn arc. The result will be an arc defined by two points and a starting angle.
A tangent will be
Move the mouse
linked to the first drawn
and make a click
point. Move the tangent
Make a click in where you want to
by mouse drag to
Activate the “Draw arc by two the work space to create the second
establish the starting
points and arc” button. draw the first pint point. An arc will be
angle into the desired
for the new pattern. displayed between
position, and then make
the first and the last
a click to finish drawing
drawn point. the arc.
Make a right click to end up drawing the arc. The pattern contour will be opened in this case. (The pattern won’t
be filled with color).
Select another function from the second tool bar in draw tool mode if you want to continue drawing with no
interruption. When the new function is selected, the cursor remains connected to the last drawn point and the user
can continue to draw, by using the new function.
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1.7.17 Use CTRL, SHIFT, ALT keys to draw freely an arc by 2 points and angle:
To draw more precise an arc, you can use the CTRL and ALT key. By keeping pressed on of these two keys,
you can constrain the angle determinate by the line defined by first and the second drawn point and the work space
coordinates.
Keep CTRL pressed during drawing the second point which defines the arc, to constrain the angle between the
line defined by the first and second drawn point from 15 to 15 degrees (15, 30, 45, 60, 75 degrees) related to the
work space coordinates.
Keep
Keep CTRL key pressed as
you draw the second point which
defines the arc, to constrain the
angle between the line defined key pressed during
by the two points which creates drawing the second point
the arc and the work space to constrain the angle
coordinates. between the line defined
by the two points from
The rotation step is of 15°; the arc and the work
thus, the angle will be only of 0°, space coordinates.
15°, 30°, 45°, 60°, 75°, 90°
related to the workspace
coordinates.
Keep Alt key pressed as you draw the next arc point, and it will be attracted and overlapped on the points from
other patterns.
Keep
You can use the “Draw arc by 2 points and arc” function to divide a pattern
in two parts. The first two drawn points will be overlapped on two points from the
pattern contour (in this example one point from the front edge line and one point
from the middle front line). Keep Alt key pressed to overlap perfectly the points
from the arc on top of the points from the front side and then, reshape the arc
curve by dragging the tangent.
1.7.18 Draw arc by two points and angle using precise quotas and dimensions
Warning: the quotas and formulas refer to the line determinate by two drawn points and not to the curves
dimensions placed between the two points.
There are three procedures that you can use to draw an arc by two points and arc:
A. You can indicate the line length and the inclination angle for the line defined by the two points which defines the
arc. (This procedure is called Constrain to the next line)
B. Indicate the horizontal and vertical coordinates for the second drawn point related to the pattern origin or related
to the last point created (in this case the pattern origin and the last created point are the same) . (This procedure is
called Constrain to the next point)
C. Indicate the starting angle for the third drawn point to create the arc. (This procedure is called Tangent angle
constraining).
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A. Draw an arc by two points and angle by constraining t the next line
Check the “next line” option from the right side menu to draw assisted by
computer constraining to the next line. When the “next line” setting is checked the
fields where you can complete the angle and the length becomes active.
Setting the angle for the next Setting the length for the next Setting the length and the angle
segment defined by the first and the segment defined by the first and the for the next segment defined by the
second drawn points which define second drawn point of the current first and the second drawn points of
the current drawn arc. drawn arc. the current drawn arc.
Check the “Angle” setting, Check the « Length» setting Check both settings “Angle” and
and then fill with the angle value the and then fill with the desired “Length” and then fill both fields: the
corresponding field. Press Enter dimension for length the angle and the length, with the desired
after completing the angle. Check corresponding filed. After this, press values for the next segment defined
the “Absolute” setting if the angle is Enter to validate the given by the first and the second drawn
defined related to the workspace dimension. point from the arc that will be drawn
coordinates. When the cursor returns in the next. When the angle is defined, it
When the cursor returns in the work space, the segment length means that the direction is indicated.
work space, the line determinate by defined by the first and the second This setting together with the length is
the first and the second drawn point drawn arc point will be constrained giving precise coordinates for the next
which defines the current drawn according to the inserted length. point position. Press Apply to draw
curve, will be constrained according The point that follows to be drawn the segment according to the given
to the given angle and the next point next slides along a circle with the coordinates or, return with the cursor
to be drawn slides along this same radius. in the work space to fix the pint
direction. position by click.
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B Draw arc by two points and angle by constrain to the next point
To draw assisted by the program using coordinates of the next point you have
to check « next point » option from right side menu from « Draw Tool ». After you
check this option, the fields, where you can enter the coordinates of the new point,
become active.
You have two possibilities to indicate the coordinates for the next point of the
curve:
1. X and Y coordinate relative to pattern origin point.
2. dX and dY coordinates relative to last entered point.
Adding the second point of the Adding a new point of the arc
arc using coordinates relative to the using coordinates relative to the last After you entered
pattern origin point entered point. the coordinates of
the new point press
A tangent will be linked to the first drawn point after drawing the first two arc
points. This tangent can be used to establish the starting angle for the current
drawn arc related to the work space coordinates. Check the “next line” setting
from the right side menu to activate the field where you need to insert the
number of degrees for the starting angle. The arc tangent will be constrained
according to
the given number of degrees, and the edge point from the tangent (the next point to be drawn) will slide along this
direction.
Check the “Angle”
setting and then
insert the number
of degrees. After
Establish the
inserting the
starting angle
angle, press Enter
for the
to apply the value.
tangent
The arc tangent
starting from
position will be
the first drawn
constrained by
point. angle and the
tangent edge point
will slide along this
direction.
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In Gemini Pattern Editor spirals can be created directly. For this you have to enter in « Draw Tool » and select « Draw spiral » function.
In Gemini Pattern Editor can be created two types of spirals. Before starting to draw a spiral the user has to
decide the type of the spiral to create. The two types are:
1. Closed spirals.
2. Opened spirals.
1. Closed spirals. To create a closed spiral, after applying the « Draw Spiral » function, you have to select
« Closed » option from « Spiral type » in properties area (right side) of « Draw Tool ». A closed spiral is composed
by two elements: a main pattern and an auxiliary drawing.
To draw a spiral you have to In properties area you have to The drawn spiral is a closed one (filled
enter in « Draw Tool » and check « Closed » option from with a color) and is composed by a main
press « Draw spiral » button. « Spiral type ». pattern and an auxiliary drawing.
2. Opened spirals. To create an opened spiral, after applying the « Draw Spiral » function, you have to select
« Opened » option from « Spiral type » in properties area (right side) of « Draw Tool ». The
opened spiral has opened contour (without color filling).
Spiral restrictions.
A spiral has a group of restrictions:
- spiral width
- spiral height
- step between 2 parralel curves of the spiral
- spiral length
- number of rotations of the spiral
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1.
To draw a spiral with restrictions you have to enter in « Draw Tool » and select « Draw spiral » function. In
properties area you have to select the type of the spiral (opened or closed). Next you have to click with the mouse
in the work area, with this click the starting point of the spiral is specified. After specifying the spiral staring point you
can check, in properties area, the restrictions which are necessary for drawing the desired spiral.
If, for example, you want to draw a spiral with a known step and different values for width and height, first you
have to click on work area to specify the spiral staring point, then to check in properties area the options from
« Dimensions »: « Width » and « Height » and also « Step » option and enter the desired values of these
restrictions in the incident fields. After entering the restriction values press « Apply » button or « Enter » and go
back with the mouse in work area. The spiral is drawn with the restrictions entered by the user, it is connected to
the mouse cursor in first point of spiral and can be rotated free around this point. To fix the spiral, you have to rotate
it until it is in the desired position and click with the mouse in work area (without moving it).
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An another example for a spiral with restrictions can be the following: equal width and height and a fix number
of rotations. To draw the spiral with these restrictions the following steps are needed: click on a free space in work
area (to specify the starting point of the spiral) and check in properties area « Circular spiral » option. If this option is
checked, to set the spiral dimensions you have to complete only one of dimension options (width or height). For
entering the number of rotations you have to check, also in properties area, the « Length » option – constrain to
« number of rotations » and enter the desired value for rotation number. After entering the restriction values press
« Apply » button or « Enter » and go back with the mouse in work area. The spiral is drawn with the restrictions
entered by the user, it is connected to the mouse cursor in first point of spiral and can be rotated free around this
point. To fix the spiral, you have to rotate it until it is in the desired position and click with the mouse in work area
(without moving it).
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To draw a circle in Gemini Pattern Editor you must press « Draw circle » button from
« Draw tool ».
Click with the left mouse button in a free workspace area. The drawn point will be
linked by a circle radius. If you will move the mouse you will change the dimension of this
radius and of the circle from the screen. To finis drawing the circle you must make a click were you want to end the
circle radius.
Click on « Draw circle » Move the mouse in the To finish drawing make another
from « Draw tool » working workspace and make a click to click to indicate the length of the
mode. draw the circle center. circle radius.
To draw a circle by constraining the next point, in « Draw tool » you must click on «Draw circle» button. Than
you must click on the working area and in the left menu you must check “next point” option from “Set properties for”
and you must introduce the coordinates for the second point. After pressing ENTER key or “Apply” button on the
screen will appear the circle. The point for which you introduced the coordinates will not be added on the circle.
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To draw a circle by constraining the radius length, in « Draw tool » you must click on «Draw circle» button.
Than you must click on the working area and in the left panel you must check “radius” option from “Set properties
for” and you must introduce the radius length. After pressing ENTER key or “Apply” button on the screen will appear
the circle.
1.7.23. Trace mode – drawing around the contour of the existing patterns
In Gemini Pattern Editor, you have the possibility to copy a pattern section by
drawing around the contour of the existing pattern. In addition, using this function, you can
create new patterns, from other already existing patterns by drawing together sections from
them. For this, you will have to use the “Trace mode – drawing around the contour of the
existing patterns” function, from “Draw” tool mode, or you can use the “Trace mode” from
the Palette menu.
If you want to use the “Trace mode – drawing around the contour of the existing patterns” function, you
must enter first the “Draw” tool mode and then pick up the function from the second tool bar.
While this function is active, all points from all patterns, including the intersection points, become active.
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Note: An intersection point is a point placed on the intersection between two patterns. It can be displayed
only when this function is active, or when the CTRL+ALT key combination is active (in pattern tool if you want to
overlap two patterns into a common point, in shape tool if you want to overlap one point on top of another, in draw
tool if you want to draw passing with a line thru some points…).
If you want to copy only a section from a pattern, make a click in the first point of the section and
then make another click into the ending point of the section. The first point and the last point will be considered in
clockwise. If you want to change the path, counterclockwise, you must make a click with the mouse cursor on the
segment placed in front of the selected point. After making this click, the place where you have made the click
becomes marked with a little green arrow, indicating the drawing way.
Note: If you will make a click beside the point, the shape of
the draw, won’t follow the shape of the old pattern.
If you want to copy many section, from different pattern, to create together a single pattern, you
must do the next steps:
- first arrange the patterns into the desired position
- then start drawing the shape of the new pattern on top of the old pattern
Note: When you pass from one pattern to the other, use an intersection point to make the transition between
patterns. Otherwise, if you will try to use simple points to make the transition, the transition will be done thru a simple
line.
Arrange the patterns in the desired position. All points becomes active, when the “Trace mode” is active.
Using the “Trace” function, in order to obtain the pattern contour you can use the intersection points between the
two patterns. In an intersection point, can be found two overlapped grading points or a grading point overlapped
over a segment or a simple intersection point without any grading point. In the following will be presented thw way
how to translate the grading from the intersection points on the new created pattern:
A. proportional grading is automatically assigned to neighboring points from the new created pattern, the point is
taken from a point of intersection, which is found in one of the following situations:
- a grading point overlapped to another grading point, booth of the grading points having different grading rule
- a grading overlapped to a contour segment;
- Intersection with no grading point.
B. When in the intersection of the two patterns are points with the same grading rule, the new created point will
have the grading rule of one of the intersection point.
C. When in the intersection between two patterns one of the points have a zero grading rule on all four columns,
the new created point will have the grading rule of the other point.
In the following example will be created a new pattern using contour shapes from pattern 1 and drawing 2. The
B,C and D have zero grading rule and the point A have a grading rule different than zero.
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The new point obtained from the intersection points A and C took the
The new pattern is created
grading rule of point A
To draw a circle or ellipse, enter the « DRAW TOOL» mode then click on « Draw ellipse »
button. Hold down
If you want to draw a circle, the hold down CTRL key during drawing an ellipse. The height
and width of the ellipse will be the same, so you will obtain a circle.
During drawing in the upper part of the right side menu, the ellipse dimensionswhile are drawing the ellipse to obtain a circle
displayed. Ellipse or circle dimensions can be modified even after drawing, by changing the
values in the specific boxes. After modifying the dimensions you must click on « Apply »
button to apply changes.
To draw an ellipse, enter the « Move the cursor in the workspace The ellipse dimensions appear in
DRAW TOOL» mode and click on click on the left mouse button and the specific boxes in the right side
« Draw ellipse » button drag the mouse. From the starting menu. You can change ellipse
point (there where you have clicked dimensions even after drawing. To
on the left mouse button) to the do this, you have to change the
mouse button release point, an values in the specific boxes and
ellipse appears. If you hold down then to press ENTER key or to click
CTRL key during mouse dragging, on « Apply » button.
you will obtain a circle.
When you draw a circle, the program will automatically create a technical point in the circle
center.
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To draw a square or rectangle, enter the « DRAW TOOL » mode then click on « Hold down
Draw rectangle ». Move the cursor in the workspace, click and hold the left mouse
button then drag the mouse. Between the point where the mouse button was pressed
and the point where the mouse button will be released, a rectangle appears. while drawing a rectangle to obtain a square
If you want to obtain a square then hold down CTRL during drawing a rectangle. The
height and width will have the same values, so you will obtain a square.
During drawing in the upper part of the right side menu, the rectangle dimensions are
displayed. Rectangle or square dimensions can be modified even after drawing, by
changing the values in the specific boxes. After modifying the dimensions you must click on « Apply » button to
apply changes.
To draw a rectangle, enter the « Move the cursor in the workspace, click The rectangle dimensions appear in
DRAW TOOL» mode and click on on the left mouse button and drag the the specific boxes in the right side
« Draw rectangle » button. mouse From the starting point (there menu. You can change rectangle
where you have clicked on the left dimensions even after drawing. To
mouse button) to the mouse button do this, you have to change the
release point, a rectangle appears. If values in the specific boxes and
you hold down CTRL key during then to press ENTER key or to click
mouse dragging, you will obtain a on « Apply » button.
square.
In Gemini Pattern Editor there is the possibility to convert in electronic form the
printed or cut patterns by using the Digi Pen device. This device has a work table and a
pen. To introduce the patterns in Gemini Pattern Editor you must copy first the shape of
the patterns in a file by using the Digipen device. After creating the file that contains the
shape of patterns you must download it on the computer disk and you have to go on Draw
tool from Gemini Pattern Editor. In Draw tool you must select “Digi Pen digitize” function.
When
you will click on this button, Gemini Pattern Editor application will load and interpret the information from the file
provided by DigiPen and will generate the patterns.
To copy the patterns shapes using this device, you will have to indicate the points from pattern contour. The
Digipen will generate a file with information about points coordinates; type of points, notches. This file will be copied
in a specific folder. By default this folder is C:\Program Files\PenPlot2\Bin\Files\ but the user can change the path
for digitizing folders. He can change the path in “Gemini Pattern Editor Settings” window, “Digitizer” tab using
Browse button that correspond to “Path for Digi Pen files” option.
Gemini Pattern Editor will read the files from the Digi pen folder and will delete them after interpretation. If there
are interpretation problems, the files will be copied in a backup folder. By default the backup folder is C:\Program
Files\PenPlot2\Bin\Files\Backup but the user can change it. The path for backup folder can be set in “Gemini
Pattern Editor Settings” window, “Digitizer” tab using Browse button that correspond to “Path for backup Digi Pen
files” option. If there are interpretations problems, the user will be warned. A message window will appear and will
explain the problem. The patterns that will be loaded will not appear in a preview window.
The DigiPen working table has 8 buttons numbered from 1 till 8. When the user will select with the Pen one of
this buttons will access a specific working mode. All clicks done by the user will be memorized according to the
selected working mode. To switch the working mode you just have to make click on a different number from Digi
Pen tablet.
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In the bottom of this window, you will find the necessary settings for Digi Pen. As you already know here can be set
the path for the files from Digi Pen and for the backup files. Also you have the possibility to set to delete the files
from backup folder. The files older than the introduced number will be deleted. The older files will be erased only
when the function “Digi Pen digitize” is accessed.
In settings window, the user also can set the overlapping margin.
If there are errors on the file from Digi Pen, a window will appear. In this window will be enounced all the
detected problems
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You can use the “Set the type of the advanced magnetize” function
if you want to rearrange a point position or if you want to draw new
points
using other pints position or
using the contour from other patterns. You can find this function on
the first tool bar from Gemini Pattern Editor.
A new window called “Advanced magnetize” will open on the
screen when you will activate this function. This window contents five
types of advanced magnetize: Graded Points, Intersect Points, Internal
Points, Contours and Parallels. According to the magnetizing type
that you want to use further you must select the corresponding
function and then click on “Apply” button to activate it. If you don’t
want to keep up on the screen this window, you can close it using the
“Close” button from bottom or the “X” from the right up corner. The
last type of magnetizing will remain active until you will change it.
You can use this function in “Pattern” work tool mode when you
want to reposition a pattern position according to other patterns from
the model (by using the pints positions or the pattern contour). This
function can be also used in “Shape” tool mode when you will try to
reposition a point from the pattern contour according to other points position from the model patterns or in “Draw”
tool mode when you want to draw a new point according to some other already existing points positions or
according to the other patterns position.
Note: The last type of magnetizing that you have set can be
used also, when the “Magnetizing window” is closed and it can
be used by keeping pressed Ctrl+Alt key pressed.
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Note: If you are in “Draw” tool mode and you are using the
Length advanced magnetizing type together with the drawing
constrained to the next point or to the next line, you can notice
that beside the graded points and them trajectories, there are
also some other points active (points displayed on the graded
points trajectories). These points represent the intersection
between the trajectories that the graded point might have and
the next drawn point position according to the settings that you
have made for the next point.
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Note: If you are in “Draw” tool mode and you are using the Length advanced
magnetizing type together with the drawing constrained to the next point or to
the next line, you can notice that beside the intersection points and them
trajectories, there are also some other points active (points displayed on the
intersection points trajectories). These points represent the intersection
between the trajectories that the intersection point might have and the next
drawn point position according to the settings that you have made for the next
point.
You must activate the “Internal points” function from the list
if you want to use the internal points as reference points. When
you activate this function, in the right side of the “Advanced
magnetize” window you can set the magnetizing type that you
want to use further.
You must keep the Ctrl+Alt key combination if you want view
the points where you can apply the advanced magnetizing.
Note: When this function is active, all internal types of internal
points becomes active, not only the internal technical points.
Thus, when Ctrl+Alt key combination are pressed by user and this
type of magnetizing is active, you can see displayed next type of
internal points: internal technical points, points who define axes,
points which marks the intersection between internal axes and
pattern contour etc.
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If you are in “Draw” tool mode and you are using the
advanced magnetizing presented previously together
with the drawing constrained to the next point or to the
next line, you can notice that beside the parallels,
there are also some points active (points displayed on
the parallels). These points represent the intersection
between the trajectories that the next drawn point can
have with the parallel.
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« DIGITIZE » mode is used to convert the printed or cut patterns on the computer; for this purpose you will need a
digitizing tablet. In this mode you will not work with the mouse or keyboard but with the digitizing table and the
digitizing pointer.
1.8.1 Digitizer.
The digitizer is a tool that helps you convert the printed or paper patterns into an electronic form. The digitizer looks
like a design table and can have various dimensions. Near the digitizer you can find a tool called « pointer » that
helps you follow the contour of the patterns to be digitized.
The digitizer is connected to a computer where Gemini Pattern Editor is installed and converts the geometrical
shapes followed by the pointer, and the technical elements declared by the user. For details regarding the digitizer
installation and configuration please refer to Gemini CAD equipment installation guide.
Digitizing table
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At the first use for the Gemini wired digitizer, it must be configured according to the user manual. This
operation is done once, on installation.
Enter the « DIGITIZE» mode. If the digitizer is plugged correctly then you will hear a short beep; thus, the
digitizer informs you that it is ready to use. If the digitizer is not connected or the computer connection fails, an error
message will appear on the screen. Check connections and restart procedure.
After entering the « DIGITIZE » mode and the digitizer is connected, you will not work with the mouse or
keyboard anymore; now you will use the digitizer. To supervise the correct pattern conversion by digitization we
recommend:
- Place the monitor to be at least partially visible from the position the user takes while working on the
digitizing table.
- Computer speakers to be turned on in order to hear the messages from the Gemini Pattern Editor program
during digitization
ATTENTION: If the buttons in the command area are not responding, you will have to calibrate the Gemini sticker.
If you don’t hear the voice message « START » at the beginning or if while clicking on a letter you are informed that
you have missed it, then you have to recalibrate the sticker keys.
To do this, click on « Settings» button in the menu bar of Gemini Pattern Editor program. A setting window will open
and you must select « Digitizer » option.
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Click on the “A” key from the pointer or place the pointer on top of “START” button from the sticker and click on
“0” key from the pointer.
Before staring to digitize a pattern click on the “A” key from the pointer or
Place the pointer on top of “START” button and then click on “0” key from
Choose a starting point (usually one of the pattern corners) for pattern digitization. Place the pointer over this point
and press the « 0 » pointer button. Trace the pattern outline as follows:
- The corners will be marked using the « 0 » pointer button. The marked points will be assumed as main
points by Gemini Pattern Editor. These are the grade points.
- The straight lines will be digitized by passing directly to the next corner that will be marked using the « 0 »
pointer button; the software will automatically trace a straight line between the two points.
- Curved lines are digitized by marking their shape by intermediate curve points, using « 1 » pointer button.
The intermediate curve points can be brought closer or away according to the camber. For example, for a sleeve cutout,
intermediate points at each 1-2 cm are required. For a curve that follows the hip contour, curve points may be separated
by 3-5 cm.
- Start and end points for the curved lines must be marked by main points, using the « 0 » pointer button.
As the part outline is digitized, it appears on the computer screen. The last digitized point is automatically connected
to the first one, in order to close the shape.
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To digitize a point
grading you must click on
the button “4” of the
pointer on the points that
correspond to the
digitized graded point, on
the other sizes.
After the pattern outline is digitized, the technical elements on the pattern can be also digitized: notches, grain axis,
symmetry line, inner drill holes.
Notches can be digitized by direct usage of the « 2 » pointer button. Notch dig
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Place the pointer on « DISTANCE NOTCH » or « PERCENT Place the pointer on the notch and press
NOTCH » according to the notch type to be defined, then press the « 0 » pointer button
« 0 » pointer button Replay operation for each notch on the
pattern
Place the pointer on top of the grain axis and click on “C” Click on “C” button from the pointer to digitize the
button from the pointer to digitize the first point of the grain axis. second point of the grain axis.
II- nd method for digitizing the grain axis using the sticker
Place the pointer on « GRAIN AXIS » Place the pointer on the starting Place the pointer on the ending
and press « 0 » pointer button point of the grain axis and press the point of the grain axis and press
« 0 » pointer button the « 0 » pointer button
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Place the pointer on the segment that you want to become a symmetry axis and t
Second method for digitizing the grain axis using the sticker
Place the pointer on « SYMMETRY AXIS » and Place the pointer on the outline segment that represents the
press the « 0 » pointer button symmetry axis and press the « 0 » pointer button
The simple internal technical points can be digitized by using the sticker. For this you must make a click on the
“o” key from the pointer, when the pointer is placed on the “HOLE” button from the digitizing table command area,
and then make a click using the same key on the internal point.
The internal technical point type can be changed later from the application in “Garment tool” mode. (see 1.9.21
paragraph).
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Place the pointer on top of the internal point (button hole, hook hole, etc) and then make a click on the “3”
key from the pointer.
Place the pointer on top of the dart edge point and then make a click on the “6”
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You can set later the pocket length and angle from Gemini Pattern Editor application in Garment tool mode in
the
properties table from the right side of the screen (see 1.9.22 chap).
To digitize inner points: move the pointer over « HOLE » on the Digitizer control panel, then press the « 0 » pointer button. Place the point
You can digitize the pattern internal lines directly using the “5” key from the pointer. For this make a click with
“5” key on each edge point from the internal axes that you want to digitize.
Place the pointer on the first edge pint from the Place the pointer on top of the second edge
internal axes and then make a click on the « 5 » key from point from the internal axes and then make a click on
the pointer. the « 5 » from the pointer.
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In Gemini Pattern Editor you have the possibility to digitize the auxiliary drawings from patterns. Click on “D”
key from the pointer to start digitize an auxiliary drawing drawn on a main pattern. The digitized auxiliary drawing
will be automatically attached to the last drawn pattern. After making a click on the “D” key, you can start digitizing
the auxiliary pattern as when you digitize a main pattern: by following the pattern contour using the same buttons.
Any element that you will digitize after making a click on “D” key (notch, internal point, internal line, axes, grading)
will belong to the auxiliary pattern. Make a click on “E” key from the pointer to end up digitizing an auxiliary pattern.
According to them contour the auxiliary patterns are of two kinds:
-auxiliary patterns with closed contour
-auxiliary patterns with opened contour
In the “Settings” window, there is a setting called “Close auxiliary drawings” that can be checked or not,
depending on the type of the
auxiliary drawing that you are
mostly using. By default this
setting is unchecked. Even if
in the settings, you can check
only one type of contour, the
user can close or open the
pattern contour directly in the digitizing process. For example, if you haven’t checked the “Close auxiliary drawings”
option in the settings, and you want to digitize a pattern with the contour closed, you will have to click twice on the
“E” key from the pointer:
- Once for ending up the auxiliary pattern digitizing
- And once for changing the contour type
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The name for the digitized pattern can be introduced directly from the Digitizer. The pointer will be placed
consecutively on the letters corresponding to the pattern name. Letter selection will be done by using the « 0 »
pointer button for each letter. The chosen name appears simultaneously on the computer screen.
...
The pattern name is typed letter by letter using the keyboard on the control panel of the digitizing panel
There are two ways that you can use to end up digitizing a pattern:
- Directly, by making a click o the «B » button from the pointer
- Or, by making a click on the « STOP » button from the sticker using “0” key from the pointer.
You can end up digitizing (sign out from Digitizing mode) in two ways:
- Directly, by making a click on the «F» key from the pointer
- Or, by making a click on the « EXIT » button from the sticker using “0” key from the pointer.
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Due to multiple different settings for different digitizers, Gemini Pattern Editor allows you to set a new digitizer type.
If you have different digitizers (e.g. if you have bought a digitizer together with another CAD system) you must set
the Digitizer Profile
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The digitizer profile comprises: profile info, digitizer size, point button codes and the settings for the serial
communication port.
Profile information
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If Gemini Pattern Editor will contain the « PATTERN TOOL », « SHAPE TOOL » and « DIGITIZE » modes,
then it cannot be defined as apparel industry CAD software, while it has nothing specific for this domain.
The « GARMENT TOOL » mode comprises the specific functions for working with technical elements that
are specific for apparel industry: notches, darts, symmetry axis, grain axis, different inner technical points, the seam
allowance, parallels on outline, free axis and text axis, etc..
All these elements are filling the drawing and the final pattern, ready for output.
1.9.1 Introduction
In « GARMENT TOOL » mode the user can perform the following actions:
- NOTCHES: add, delete, distance change, grade point change, angle change, length change
- DARTS: define, delete, close, open, rotate, cutting on dart, edit the dart cut line, transform the dart to fold
and reversely from fold to dart
- FOLDS: define, delete
- GRAIN AXIS: create, delete, rotation change, position and length change
- TEXT AXIS: create an axis on which size and name of the pattern will appear
- CONTOUR: inner contour translation, rotation change, parallel to the contour, cutting on parallel or on
translated contour
- LINES free or dependent: create, delete, position change, angle, grade point, distance, pattern cutting
following a line
- SEAM ALLOWANCE: change allowance width on each contour segment, change finishing type for seam
allowance on corners
- SYMMETRY AXIS: define, delete
- INDEPENDENT POINTS: define, delete, position change, dimensions, rotation, symbol type (grade point,
buttonhole, pocket, dart peak, hook hole, fastener, button, etc.)
- HATCHINGS: create, modify, delete
In « GARMENT TOOL » mode, some technical elements could be hardly visible. Gemini Pattern Editor
facilitates the specific actions by emphasizing the technical elements. While cursor is placed over the technical
elements, near it appears the specific element type. For example, if near the cursor appears « NOTCH », this
means that the cursor is over a notch and this notch can be selected by a simple click on it.
Regarding the steps, which have to be followed, there are two ways of creating technical elements on the
patterns:
1. In "Garment Tool" click on the function you want to use. All patterns are selected and all graded points
become visible as a cross (X) with grey colour. All the graded points and the contours of all the patterns can be
selected for the further steps.
2. In “Garment Tool” first click on the place where you want to create an internal element and then click on the
function to create it. This kind of creating internal elements can be used for the following functions: “Create percent
notch”, “Create distance notch”, “Create symmetry axis”.
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To create a distance notch click on the "Create distance notch" button from " Garment Tool", then click on the
place where you want the notch to be added. The new distance notch will have as mark point the closest point
considered counterclockwise.
If you hold down SHIFT when you select "Create distance notch" function you will create many notches by
using this function in a repetitive mode. Using the function in the repetitive mode will
allow you to add many notches on any pattern from your working area without Hold down
making click on the function for each notch added.
When a function is used in this mode, the function’s button will show pressed
till you leave the repetitive mode. To leave the repetitive modewhen you must “Create
you select press distance notch” to create many notches in repetitive
Esc key.
If you select a new function from Garment tool bar whille you are in repetitive
mode, the new selected function will work in repetitive mode too.
After creating a notch, on the right side docker appears the properties menu
for notch parameters. In the setup menu we can apply the exact distances for the
notch to be placed. We can also: modify the mark points on which these distances are measured; set a precise notch
length and angle according to the contour line.
If the notches were added in the repetitive mode, when you will leave this mode, all notches added in this way
will be selected and you can set the common properties in the right panel.
The mark point of the notch will be the closest graded point
in counter-clockwise direction on the contour. The mark point
can be changed in the properties area of the notch from right
side.
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The properties menu for the distance notch includes the following
information:
- the horizontal and vertical coordinates from the pattern origin. You
cannot edit these coordinates
- the notch type can have the V or U shape (outside or inside) and
also the I or T shape (inside)
- the direction for the distance measured on the contour from the mark point (clockwise
or counterclockwise)
- if you uncheck the box near the message « Notch », the new added notch will be
displayed as an X on the pattern contour. If the option is checked, then the notch will be
displayed as notch
- you can choose to consider the darts closed or opened on distance measuring along
the seam line, by checking or unchecking the box near the message « Closed darts »
- if you want a notch to be cut on the cutter, you must check the box near the message
« Cut on CNC machine »
- to validate any change in the properties menu, you must click on the « Apply » button.
To change the mark point(s) for a distance notch, first select the pattern, then the notch. In the lower part of the
right docker click the « Change mark points » button. The cursor will change to a thick horizontal arrow. Move the
cursor over the new mark point and click left mouse button.
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cursor
In the lower part of the right docker click on «Change
mark points». The cursor will change to a thick
horizontal arrow, called «selection cursor»
Place the cursor over the new desired mark point. While
the cursor gets over a grade point that may become
mark point for the specific notch, near the selection
cursor appears OK.
Click on the new mark point. The distance between the
new mark point and the notch is recalculated so as the
notch position remains unchanged.
A notch can be converted to a point. First, click to select the notch then click « Convert to point » button in the lower
part of the right docker. Near the notch appears a grade point.
3. Delete a notch
First, select the notch, then press « Delete notch » button or DELETE on keyboard
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4. Notch orientation
You can change the notch orientation only for “I notch” type and for distance, percent, and intersection notch.
In order to change “I notch” orientation, first you must select the notch. Then, you move the cursor over the pick
of the notch and. When a red cross appears in the pick of the notch, click on it. You kept press the left mouse
button, drag the cursor in a desired position and free the button. The red dotted line which appears between the
pick of the notch and cursor represents the notch orientation. You can move the notch orientation freely, through
movements rotate around the contour point.
The movement notch orientation can be done through restriction to 15 degrees:
- If you hold down CTRL key as you move the notch orientation, the notch orientation can be rotated only on
15°from the workspace coordinates;
- If you hold down SHIFT key as you move the notch orientation, the notch orientation can be rotated only
on 15°from the notch tangent.
The notch orientation can be magnetized in a graded point using ALT key or CTRL+ALT for advanced
magnetize.
Changing the notch orientation in a free position
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In the proprieties window you can see the notch angle value in a real time, in the movement moment of the
notch orientation.
The percent notch is a notch applied between two points at a specific distance ratio from these points.
To create a percent notch, first click on the piece to select it. Then click on the contour, approximately where
the notch will be added. Then click the button « Create percent notch ». The new distance notch will have as mark
point the closest graded points.
If you hold down SHIFT when you select “Create percent notch” function you will create many percent notches
by using this function in a repetitive mode. Using the function in the repetitive mode
will allow you to add many notches on any pattern from your working area without Hold down
making click on the function for each notch added.
When a function is used in this mode, the function’s button will show pressed
till you leave the repetitive mode. To leave the repetitive mode
when you you must
select press
“Create percent notch” to create many percent notches in repetit
Esc key.
If you select a new function from Garmet tool bar whille you are in repetitive
mode, the new selected function will work in repetitive mode too.
After creating a notch, on the right side docker appears the setup menu for
notch parameters. In the properties menu you can insert the ratio according to
which the notch will be placed; here you can also change the mark points for the notch. You can also define the
precise length, width and angle from the contour line, according to the chosen notch type.
If the notches were added in the repetitive mode, when you will leave this mode, all notches added in this way
will be selected and you can set the common properties in the right panel.
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The first mark point of the new percent notch will be the point
you click on, the second mark point will be the next nearby
point on clockwise direction.
The properties menu for the percent notch includes the following
information:
- the horizontal and vertical coordinates from the pattern origin. You
cannot edit these coordinates
- the notch type can have the V or U shape (outside or inside) and
also the I or T shape (inside)
- the percent according to the first mark point, measured along the
pattern working contour (the seam line or the cut line)
- the direction for the percent calculated on the contour from the first mark point
(clockwise or counterclockwise)
- if you uncheck the box near the message «Notch», the new added notch will be
displayed as an X on the pattern contour. If the option is checked, then the notch will be
displayed as notch
- you can choose to consider the darts closed or opened when the percentage is
calculated along the seam line, by checking or unchecking the box near the message
«Closed darts»
- if you want a notch to be cut on the cutter, you must check the box near the message
« Cut on CNC machine »
- to validate any change in the properties menu, you must click on the « Apply » button.
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Cursor
In the lower part of the right docker click on « Change
mark points ». The cursor will change to a thick
horizontal arrow, called « selection cursor »
Place the cursor over the second new mark point. When
the cursor is over a graded point that may become a
mark point for the selected notch, near the cursor
appears OK. Click on this point. The cursor gets back to
the normal shape in « Garment tool » mode, and the
mark points for the notch will change. The notch
position remains the same and the percent for
placement is
calculated correspondently.
A notch can be converted to a point. First, click to select the notch then click « Convert to point » button in the lower
part of the right docker. Near the notch appears a grade point.
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3. Delete a notch
First, select the notch, then press « Delete notch » button or DELETE on keyboard
4. Notch orientation
See point 4 in chapter. 1.9.2.
The intersection notch will be created at the intersection between an internal axis (text axis, grain axis) and
the piece contour.
To create an intersection notch, first click the button « Create intersection notch » then click on the internal
axis to select it, then click on the contour.
If you hold down SHIFT when you select “Create intersection notch” function you will create many intersection
notches by using this function in a repetitive mode. Using the function in the
repetitive mode will allow you to add many notches on any patterns from your Hold down
working area without making click on the function for each notch added.
When a function is used in this mode, the function’s button will show pressed
till you leave the repetitive mode. To leave the repetitive mode
when you you“Create
select must press
intersection notch” to create many intersection notches in re
Esc key.
If you select a new function from Garmet tool bar whille you are in repetitive
mode, the new selected function will work in repetitive mode too.
After creating a notch, on the right side docker appears the properties menu
for notch parameters. Here you can set the precise notch length, the notch width
and angle from the contour line, according to the chosen notch type.
If the notches were added in the repetitive mode, when you will leave this mode, all notches added in this way
will be selected and you can set the common properties in the right panel.
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The properties menu for the intersection notch includes the following
information:
- the horizontal and vertical coordinates from the pattern origin. You
cannot edit these coordinates
- the notch type can have the V or U shape (outside or inside) and
also the I or T shape (inside)
- if you uncheck the box near the message «Notch», the new added notch will be
displayed as an X on the pattern contour. If the option is checked, then the notch will be
displayed as notch
- if you want a notch to be cut on the cutter, you must check the box near the message
« Cut on CNC machine »
- to validate any change in the properties menu, you must click on the « Apply » button.
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A notch can be transformed into a point. You must first click to the notch to select it and then click on the button
« Transform to point » in the lower part of the right docker. Near the notch will appear a grade point.
2. Delete a notch
First, select the notch, then press « Delete notch » button or DELETE on keyboard
3. Notch orientation
See point 4 in chapter. 1.9.2.
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The corner notch is defined in a piece corner on a specified direction. This type of notch can be defined
only on seam allowance.
To add a corner notch you must first click to select the piece and to display the seam allowance. Then click on
the « Create corner notch » button and select the point that corresponds to the corner where you want to add the
notch. The corner notch will be created on the seam allowance that recedes or follows the corner, according to the
parameters set in parameters menu in the right side docker.
If you hold down SHIFT when you select “Create corner notch” function you will create many corner notches by
using this function in a repetitive mode. Using the function in the repetitive mode
will allow you to add many notches on any pattern from your working area without Hold down
making click on the function for each notch added.
When a function is used in this mode, the function’s button will show pressed
till you leave the repetitive mode. To leave the repetitive mode you must press when you select “Create corner notch” to create ma
Esc key.
If you select a new function from Garmet tool bar whille you are in repetitive
mode, the new selected function will work in repetitive mode too.
After you have created the notch, on the right side docker appears the
parameters menu. Here you can define the notch length, width, type, support line
and the angle from the contour line, according to the notch type.
If the notches were added in the repetitive mode, when you will leave this mode, all notches added in this way
will be selected and you can set the common properties in the right panel.
Click on the point that defines the corner where you will
define the notch.
When the cursor is over a grade point, near the cursor
appears OK.
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The reference line is the line from whose extension the notch
will be created. You can choose as reference line the « Next »
or« Previous » lines. « Next » line represents the line that
leaves the point clockwise. « Previous » line represents the line
that comes to that point, clockwise.
- to validate any change in the properties menu, you must click
on the « Apply » button.
First, select the notch, then press « Delete notch » button or DELETE on keyboard
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To create a dependent line, the user must select Garment Tool mode, and press the “Create dependent line”
button. The operation that can be done using this function are: create, change distance and rotation, change mark
points, cut the piece with a dependent line, create points on the intersection of the dependent line with the piece
contour and deleting the dependent line.
If you hold down SHIFT when you select “Create dependent line” function you will create many dependent lines
by using this function in a repetitive mode. Using the function in the repetitive mode
will allow you to add many dependent lines on any pattern from your working area Hold down
without making click on the function for each line added.
When a function is used in this mode, the function’s button will show pressed
till you leave the repetitive mode. To leave the repetitive
whenmode
you you
selectmust press
“Create dependent line” to create many dependent lines in repeti
Esc key.
If you select a new function from Garmet tool bar whille you are in repetitive
mode, the new selected function will work in repetitive mode too.
When you leave this mode, all dependent lines added in this way will be
selected and you can set the common properties in the right panel.
The modification of the distance between the dependent line and mark points/segment
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The modification of the dependent line rotation after the marked points/segment
The dependent line can be rotated with an certain angle related to the given direction
The dependent line can be rotated
by an angle related to the
direction given by the mark points.
To do this, change the angle
values on the right side menu and
click the « Apply » button.
Rotation pivot position can be
changed, as
percent, along the segment
between the mark points.
Cutting the pattern with a dependent line
The pattern can be cut in two different patterns after the dependent line
To cut the pattern first click on the
dependent line with the mouse
than press the « Cut pattern »
button. After cut, the resulting
parts remain superposed on the
original pattern. To observe the
result, the patterns have to be
moved to avoid superposition.
Changing the mark points
Mark points of a dependent line can be changed. Changing the mark points will modify the line position and rotation
these parameters will be recalculated from the new mark points.
To change mark points, click on « Change mark points » button and click on
the first, then on the second new mark point.
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In order to create a translated contour, the user must select the “Garment tool” mode and select the icon “Create
translated contour”. The operations that can be done with this function are:
- create, change distance and rotation, change mark points, cut the piece with a translated contour, create points on
the intersection of the translated contour with the piece contour, and delete the translated contour.
If you hold down SHIFT when you select “Create translated contour” function you will create many translated
contours by using this function in a repetitive mode. Using the function in the
repetitive mode will allow you to add many translated contours on any pattern Hold down
from your working area without making click on the function for each contour
added.
When a function is used in this mode, the function’s
whenbutton will show
you select pressed
“Create translated contour” to create many translated contours in re
till you leave the repetitive mode. To leave the repetitive mode you must press
Esc key.
If you select a new function from Garmet tool bar whille you are in repetitive
mode, the new selected function will work in repetitive mode too.
When you leave this mode, all translated contours added in this way will be
selected and you can set the common properties in the right panel.
The modification of the translated contour rotation after marked points/ segment
The translated contour can be rotated with a certain angle related to its initial position
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To change the mark points for a translated contour you must click on
the « Change mark points » button and then click on the first and
second new mark points, consecutively.
To create points on the intersection of translated contour with pattern contour, first
click on the translated contour to select it; then the click on « Create points »
button on the menu in the right side of the screen. The points will appear
automatically there where the translated contour intersects the pattern contour.
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In order to create a parallel contour, the user must select the “Garment Tool” mode and press “Create a parallel to
the contour” button. The operations that can be done using this function are the following:
- create, change distance, change mark points, cut piece with a parallel to the contour, create points on the
intersection of the parallel to the contour with the piece contour and deleting the parallel to the contour.
If you hold down SHIFT when you select “Create parallel to the contour” function you will create many parallels
by using this function in a repetitive mode. Using the function in the repetitive mode will allow you to add many
parallels on any pattern from your working area without making click on the function
for each parallel added. Hold down
When a function is used in this mode, the function’s button will show pressed till
you leave the repetitive mode. To leave the repetitive mode you must press Esc
key. when you select “Create parallel to the contour” to
If you select a new function from Garmet tool bar whille you are in repetitive
mode, the new selected function will work in repetitive mode too.
When you leave this mode, all parallels added in this way will be selected and
you can set the common properties in the right panel.
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Create points at the intersection of the parallel to the contour with the pattern contour
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Differences between the translated contour and the parallel to the contour
Translated contour.
Does not respect the It is important to observe the differences between
exact distance, but can the translated contour and the parallel to the
be rotated contour.
The translated contour is obtained by moving the
contour segment at a given distance and rotating it
with the required angle. In straight regions, the
Parallel to the contour. translated contour will be approximately parallel to
Respects the exact the pattern contour; in the camber regions, the
distance but cannot be distance to the contour is not the same.
rotated.
To draw a dart, the pattern contour has to be changed in order to create the cut for the dart. In this step we have to
look for 2 aspects: position of the dart peak (that will set the dart depth) and the distance between the two edges of
the dart (that will set the dart width).
The length and the shape of the two dart edges can be adjusted subsequently, after the dart was defined.
The fastest method to draw a dart: in « SHAPE TOOL » mode, apply three new consecutive points on the contour
(see chapter 1.6.11), then drag the mid point to the interior of the pattern.
Draw a dart:
In « SHAPE TOOL » mode, add 3 new points by From the three new consecutive points, the mid one will be
clicking on the pattern contour, right where the dart the dart peak and the others will be the dart edges.
will be cut.
Click and drag the mid point that represents the dart The dart sketch is ready. In order to be recognized as dart
peak. Alternately, instead of dragging the peak we by the program, it has to be defined. After definition, the
can apply the precise point coordinates, in « Modify dart can be checked and adjusted.
point position » on the right side menu.
After drawing the dart, it has to be defined as dart. Defining a dart supposes to indicate consecutively the dart peak,
then the two dart edges on the pattern contour. To define a dart, enter the « GARMENT TOOL » mode, click in
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« Define dart » button in the mid-upper menu. The cursor will change to selection cursor. Click on the dart peak,
then on the first dart edge and on the second dart edge. After selecting these three points, the program will
recognize the dart sketch as a real dart.
The three points that define the dart will be circled in red. From the dart peak it appears a new line inside the
pattern. This line is called cut line and represents the cleavage line for a new dart, if current dart is closed or
diminished. The shape and direction for the cut line can be adjusted, as explained below.
If you hold down SHIFT when you select “Define dart” function you will define many darts by using this function
in a repetitive mode. Using the function in the repetitive mode will allow you to define
many darts on any pattern from your working area without making click on the Hold down
function for each dart definition.
When a function is used in this mode, the function’s button will show pressed
till you leave the repetitive mode. To leave the repetitive mode you whenmust press “Define dart” to define many darts in repetitive mode.
you select
Esc key.
If you select a new function from Garmet tool bar whille you are in repetitive
mode, the new selected function will work in repetitive mode too.
When you leave this mode, all darts defined in this way will be selected and
you can set their common properties in the right panel.
Define a dart:
cursor
1. Click on the dart peak 2. Click on the first dart edge 3. Click on the second dart edge
There are many possible operations for a defined dart. These operations have two purposes: to check the dart for a
perfect edge overlapping regarding the sewing step and to insure a smooth contour; the second purpose is to
modify the dart by: creating a new derived dart, transforming the dart to fold or cutting the pattern over the dart line.
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1.9.10 Check the pattern: temporary dart closure, checking and adjusting of edges overlapping
length, reopening a dart
To check and adjust the dart appearance after sewing, the dart can be temporarily closed by opening another dart.
For temporary closure of a dart:
- Select the dart, set a 0° angle in the specific b ox on the right side menu then click on « Rotate dart »
button. The original dart will be closed and its angle will be reallocated to a new dart. The new dart is obtained by
cleavage over the cut line, simulating the dart sewing.
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After a temporary dart closure we The length can be changed in After these changes, the two dart
observe that the two dart sides are « SHAPE TOOL» mode. Dart edges sides have the same length. Thus,
unequal; during sewing, one of the can be overlapped by dragging one while sewing, the two dart edges will
sides remain outward. of them with the mouse over the perfectly overlap.
other. For a perfect overlap, press
ALT key during dragging for a
magnetic edge attraction (see
chapter 1.6.5)
- If the contour shape on the dart closure is not accurate, the program allows either a manual shape change, or a
precise angles input, so as the sum will be 180°. T his operation can be done in « SHAPE » mode (see chapter
1.6.11)
After temporary dart closure and This contour line can be adjusted in After these changes, the contour
overlapping dart edges, the contour « SHAPE TOOL » mode, either by shape is continuous and smooth at
line is broken in the dart closure changing the Bezier curves shape the dart closure point.
point. (see chapter 1.6.12) or by other
changes that lead to a continuous
contour.
- After checking and adjusting, the dart can be reopened, as follows: select the dart, click in the dart list on the newest
opened dart (the original dart has 0 degrees because it is closed while the new dart has assumed the angle of the
original dart) and click on « Close dart » button. The temporary dart is now closed and the original dart is reopened
at the same initial angle.
ATTENTION: if during this operation, instead reopening the original dart a new dart is created, cancel the operation
by click on « UNDO » button, modify the check for rotation type from « clockwise » to « anti-clockwise», re-select
the dart to be closed and click again on « Close dart » button.
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You can automatically create a dart, using 4 points. The 4 points used for the automatic dart creation can be used as
follows:
1. One point for dart opening.
2. Two points used as hinges on dart opening. These points are called fixed points.
3. A technical internal point which determines the depth and the direction of the dart.
To create such a dart, you must click the « Create dart using 4 points » in GARMENT TOOL mode. A dart created
by this procedure must be checked and adjusted in order to fulfill the two conditions that define a dart (see chapter
1.9.9).
If you hold down SHIFT when you select “Create dart using 4 points” function you will define many darts by
using this function in a repetitive mode. Using the function in the repetitive mode will allow
Hold down
you to define many darts on any pattern from your working area without making click
on the function for each dart definition.
When a function is used in this mode, the function’s button will show pressed till
when you select “Create dart using 4 points” to de
you leave the repetitive mode. To leave the repetitive mode you must press Esc key.
If you select a new function from Garmet tool bar whille you are in repetitive
mode, the new selected function will work in repetitive mode too.
When you leave this mode, all darts defined in this way will be selected and you
can set their common properties in the right panel.
Then, you must select the first fixed point that will be used for
hinge. When you move the cursor over a point that can be
selected for this purpose, an OK appears near the cursor;
now, you must click on the left mouse button to select this
point.
Then, you must select the second fixed point that will be
used as hinge. When you move the cursor over a point that
can be selected for this purpose, an OK appears near the
cursor; now, you must click on the left mouse button to select
this point.
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Dart opening
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You can automatically create a dart on a pattern, starting from 2 points. These points used to create a dart can be
used as follows:
1. One point for dart opening
2. An internal technical point that defines the dart depth and its direction.
To create such a dart, you must click the « Create dart using 2 points » in GARMENT TOOL mode. A dart created
by this procedure must be checked and adjusted in order to fulfill the two conditions that defines a dart (see chapter
1.9.9).
If you hold down SHIFT when you select “Create dart using 4 points” function you will define many darts by
using this function in a repetitive mode. Using the function in the repetitive mode will allow
Hold down
you to define many darts on any pattern from your working area without making click
on the function for each dart definition.
When a function is used in this mode, the function’s button will show pressed till
when you select “Create dart using 4 points” to de
you leave the repetitive mode. To leave the repetitive mode you must press Esc key.
If you select a new function from Garmet tool bar whille you are in repetitive
mode, the new selected function will work in repetitive mode too.
When you leave this mode, all darts defined in this way will be selected and you
can set their common properties in the right panel.
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Dart opening
A dart opening can be moved in another contour region or can be distributed on many smaller darts, by rotating the
dart. To rotate a dart, switch on the « GARMENT TOOL » mode, place the cursor over one of the points of the dart
until near the cursor appears “DART” and click on the dart. On the right side menu, click in the dart list on the dart to
be rotated. In the box over the dart list, enter the new angle value, then click on « Rotate dart ». The pattern will be
cleaved over the dart cut line and a new dart will appear. The new dart assumes the angle difference of the original
pattern. For a complete closure of the original dart, instead of «Rotate dart» click on « Close dart ». The dart will be
completely closed by rotation up to 0 degrees and union of the edge points.
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Dart rotation
1 2 3 4
When a dart opening was distributed by rotation on many smaller darts, the former is called « multiple dart ». Each
dart in a multiple dart can be individually selected from the list in the right side menu in order to perform changes.
Rotation for the parts between the darts can be done clockwise and anti-clockwise. The total angle of the multiple
dart can be distributed between the compound darts.
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A pattern can be cut in two parts, separated by the dart and the cutting line. The parts can be separated by the two
darts if we deal with a multiple dart. Enter the « GARMENT TOOL » mode, click on one of the points of the dart to
select it and click on « Cut over dart » button.
Select dart, then click on « Cut over dart » button. The pattern will be split in two parts either over the cutting line (for a simple dart) or ove
The two parts are separated over the openings of the two darts
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1.9.16 Operations on the dart: convert the dart to folded dart; convert the folded dart to open dart
A defined dart can be transformed into a folded dart. Enter the « GARMENT TOOL » mode, click on the pattern,
click on the pattern peak to select it and click on the « Convert to folded dart ». Gemini Pattern Editor will
regenerate the pattern contour, on dart opening, for a perfect overlap to the pattern contour, by clockwise or
anticlockwise folding, according to the checked option. The same operation can be done reversely: a folded dart
can be converted in an open dart. Click on the inner point that represents the peak of the folded dart and click on «
Convert to dart » button.
Gemini Pattern Editor automatically adds notches that indicate how to overlap the dart or the folded dart for sewing.
These notches are always directed toward the dart peak or folded dart peak. The dart notches are automatically
translated on the seam allowance when the latter is added to the pattern.
Automatically added notches on the seam allowance to Automatically added notches on the seam allowance to
mark the overlapping points for dart closure. The notches mark the overlapping points for folded dart closure, The
are always directed toward the peak notches are always directed toward the folded dart peak.
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In Gemini Pattern Editor there are three ways to create automatically a fold:
A. Create fold
B. Create a sequence of separate folds
C. Create a sequence of mixed folds
It is possible to add automatically a fold or a sequence of folds by selecting once the function. No matter the folds
number, the steps to create a fold are the following:
1. Add manually on the pattern contour the points that mark the fold
2. Define the fold
A. Create fold
To create a fold, on the pattern contour must be added the 4 points that will define the fold. These points can be
added on the pattern contour manually or by intersection with another pattern.
Add manually the points that mark the fold, on the contour
Define a fold
After adding the points that mark the fold, enter the « GARMENT TOOL » cursor
mode and press the « Create fold » button. The cursor will change to point
selection cursor. Click consecutively on the four points of the fold, two by
two, over the folding lines.
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First point
Second point
If you hold down SHIFT when you select “Create fold” function you will define many folds by using this function
in a repetitive mode. Using the function in the repetitive mode will allow you to Hold down
define many folds on any pattern from your working area without making click
on the function for each fold definition.
When a function is used in this mode, the function’s button will show
pressed till you leave the repetitive mode. To leave the repetitive mode you when you select “Create fold” to define many folds in r
must press Esc key.
If you select a new function from Garmet tool bar whille you are in repetitive
mode, the new selected function will work in repetitive mode too.
When you leave this mode, all folds defined in this way will be selected and
you can set their common properties in the right panel.
Add on contour the points that mark the fold by intersection with another pattern.
Original pattern on which the fold In « DRAW » mode, draw a Place the rectangle on the pattern
will be built rectangle. The rectangle width will and rotate (if necessary) up to the
be the same with the fold width. right angle, on exactly the same
position and rotation of the fold to
be built.
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New added points can be used to declare a new fold (see chapter 1.9.17). This fold will have the folding lines perfectly parallel. The fold ro
Similarly, instead of rectangle we can use other geometrical shapes, parallel or oblique sides. New intersection points required for a fold d
Define folds
After the mark points for folds were added, enter in
“Garment Tool” mode and select the extension of
“Create a sequence of separate folds” button to choose
the way of selecting the points for the folds.
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Step 1:
Step 2:
After selecting the first set of points press "Apply"
in the window where the steps are displayed.
Step 3:
After clicking on "Apply", the second step from
the message window will be active.
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Step 4:
Step 1:
The user will select the first peak point of the fold.
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Step 2:
Step 3:
Step 4:
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Step 5:
In order to create a sequence of mixed folds it is necessary to declare in four points only the first fold. For the
next folds, will be done a click only on the two points that declare the bottom of the fold .The fold peak will be
automatically set in the points that define the fold bottom.
If the user wants the next folds to have equal dimensions it is recommended to create the points with the
function “Divide segment in a given number of parts” from “Shape Tool” mode.
Mixed folds can be of equal or different measurment. The marked points for these folds can be points that allready are set on the pattern or ne
The pattern on which will be added the necessary points for mixed fold creation.
Adding new points for fold creation by dividing the segment in a equal number of segments
In “Shape Tool” mode the user Select “Divide segment in a given number By entering the division number
must click on the contour where of parts” on the segment were generated
wants to add new points. the folds points
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Select the second segment The user will enter the divisions The new points can be used as
number in the edit window marked points for folds
Define folds
After the mark points for folds were added, enter in
“Garment Tool” mode and select the extension of
“Create a sequence of mixed folds” button to chose the
way of selecting the points for the folds.
Step 1:
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Step 2:
Step 3:
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Step 1:
The user will select the first peak point of the first
fold.
Step 2:
The user will select the first peak point of the first
fold. The peakline of the first fold is created.
Step 3:
The user will select the first bottom point of the first
fold. This point will also be the first peak point of the
next fold.
Step 4:
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Step 5:
After selecting the necesary points for the folds press "Apply", in the window where the steps are displayed, to close the folding creation oper
The pattern is temporary or definitively straightened in a new pattern. The temporary pattern cannot be modified.
It is displayed only for checking. The new pattern obtained by definitively straightening cannot be folded again.
The program adds notches automatically in the folding points, oriented over the folding lines. These notches are
automatically translated even on the seam allowance, while the latter is added to the pattern.
For the common point folds, straightening will behave as a bulge, if the selection order of the marked points of the
fold was made so the common point to be the second and the forth.
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1.9.20 The seam allowance. Set the width of the seam allowance
To add the seam allowance to a pattern, the pattern must be checked as designed on internal seam line. If the
pattern is checked as designed on internal seam line, the program considers the contour line as the final pattern
and does not add the seam allowance.
The program initially adds a seam allowance with a standard width of 10 mm on the whole pattern perimeter. The
width of the seam allowance on specific segments can be modified. To modify the width of the seam allowance on a
contour segment, enter the « GARMENT TOOL » mode, click on the pattern, click on « Edit seam allowance »
button. Then click on the contour segment on which the seam allowance width has to be modified. In the box on the
upper side menu, type a new value for seam allowance width. The new width is applied on the contour between the
two grade points. The seam allowance can be of three types: fixed, variable or step.
In « GARMENT TOOL »
mode, click on the pattern,
then click on « Edit seam
allowance » button.
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A segment has a variable seam allowance if its width increases or decreases between the two points that defines
the segment.
Create/change the “variable” seam allowance width for a segment
Click on « Edit seam allowance » button in
« GARMENT TOOL » mode, select the segment to
create or change the variable seam allowance
width. In the toolbar, for the « GARMENT TOOL »
mode you will find displayed the values for the seam
allowance.
Click on “variable” option and enter the values for
initial and final width.
1.
Click on “step” option and enter the values
for initial and final width. You must also declare
2. the intersection distance with the segment and the
specific intersection angle.
Each seam allowance type can be applied on a segment by selecting directly the segment with a simple
click, or on a pattern section by selecting all points from that section using Shift key to multi select the desired points.
Similarly, if the user wants to have the same seam width on the entire pattern, he must select all points from
the pattern, using the rectangle selection or using the “Ctrl+A” key combination.
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The seam allowance width in a point can be of two types: defined or undefined width. For a point with
undefined width, the seam allowance will be calculated automatically, according to the seam allowance of the
defined neighbor points. For a point with defined width you can set the seam allowance by entering width values
clockwise or counterclockwise.
To display the seam allowance width in a point, you must select the pattern, enter the GARMENT TOOL
mode, click on „Edit seam allowance button” and click on the point.
The shape of the seam allowance is automatically modified each time the pattern shape changes.
If the pattern is cut or cut by parallel, the program adds automatically the seam allowance over cutting line.
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The seam allowance will be bended by treading in different ways. After sewing the patterns, we can choose different
types for finishing the seam allowance corners. To change a corner type for the seam allowance in a point, enter the
« GARMENT TOOL » mode, click on the pattern, click on « Edit seam allowance » button, click on the corner point
to be changed then choose from the list in the upper side menu the corner type.
In « GARMENT TOOL »
mode, click on the pattern,
then click on « Edit seam
allowance » button.
Some finishing corner types for the seam allowance cannot be applied when the angle in the specific contour point is
too large or too small.
These corner types will be automatically replaced by another corner type, according to the corresponding angle
Corner types for the seam allowance
It is obtained by intersection of the allowance extension with the corresponding angle bisecting
line
It is obtained by symmetrization of the seam allowance toward the axis of the previous segment
and by cutting the corner that surpasses the next seam allowance.
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It is obtained by symmetrization of the next seam allowance toward the axis of the next
segment and by cutting the corner that surpasses the previous seam allowance.
Prev and Next Symmetry corner types are very useful for finishing the seam allowances that will
be folded at 180°after sewing; thus, you avoid the effort for corner straightening
It is obtained by the intersection of the previous segment with the next seam allowance and by
raising a perpendicular line in that point up to the intersection with the previous seam allowance.
It is obtained by intersection of the next segment axis with the previous seam allowance and by
raising a perpendicular line in that point up to the intersection with the next seam allowance.
Is obtained by intersection of the previous segment with the next seam allowance and the
intersection of the next segment axis with the previous seam allowance.
It is obtained by extending the bisecting line of the corner angle on a distance equal to the
width of the previous seam allowance.
It is obtained by extending the bisecting line of the corner angle on a distance equal to the
width of the next seam allowance.
It is obtained by direct union of the edge points for the seam allowance of previous and next
segments.
It is obtained by rounding at a user defined distance from the seam allowances intersection
It is obtained by cutting the seam allowance with a line bend at a certain angle from the
bisectrix and placed at a user defined distance from the angle that defines this seam allowance
type
It is obtained by intersection of the seam allowances of the previous and next segments.
The difference between this corner type and the “Intersection” corner type is that the seam
allowance intersection point is not necessarily on the segment extensions.
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To create a new interior technical point on a pattern (mark point, pocket, buttonhole, dart peak, hook hole, fastener,
button, matching point etc) enter the « GARMENT TOOL » mode, click on a pattern to select it, then click on «
Create interior technical point ». Click with the left mouse button on the pattern, there where a new point will be
placed.
If the user will keep „Shift” key pressed when applying the „Create internal technical point” function, this
function will be applied in the continuous mode. In this mode, the user can
create many internal technical points on any pattern from the work area Press
without picking up each time the function. When a function is used in this
mode, the button corresponding to that function remains active until the user
will sign out from this mode. To do this, the user must press the Esc key from
key board.
key when
If the user will pick up another function, when he uses a function in activating
the the “Create internal technical points” function.
continuous mode, the new active function will work in the continuous mode
too.
After creating a point, select the technical element that is represented by the
point. Then choose the length and rotation for the specific technical element.
You can also set the precise coordinates for the point on the pattern, according to the original point of the pattern
If the internal points are added using the repetitive mode, when the user signs out from the continuous mode ,
all these points will remain selected and the user can change these points properties..
Apply an internal point to a pattern
In "Garment Tool" click on the "Create internal point" Click on the pattern on the place where the internal
button. point should be placed.
place the mouse over the internal point you want to work with, until near the cursor appears "POINT", which is an information about the type
Set the parameters for an internal point: technical element type, position, length, rotation.
Example: create a 12 cm width pocket.
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Click on the arrow From the internal Select the pocket Set the position of Move the point, if
near "Type" field to point types select opening length and the pocket from the necessary, with a
display the list with "Pocket". its orientation origin point of the desired value
the internal point (angle). front. according to its
types. current position.
In Garment Tool working mode you can create a sequence of internal points on a pattern. This means that you
can create many internal points in the same time.
To create a sequence of internal points you must select the pattern first and than the “Create sequence of
internal points“ button. The cursor changes into selection cursor. After this you have to indicate a range along which
you want to create the sequence of internal points. This range can be the contour of an auxiliary drawing or internal
axes like a dependent line, a translated contour, a parallel to the contour, a text axes or a grain axes. The auxiliary
drawings used to add a sequence of internal points can have a opened contour or a closed contour.
To select a auxiliary drawing with open contour it is necessary to select two points from it. The sequence of
points will be created between selected points.
To select an auxiliary drawing with close contour you have to select two points and the contour between them
(this because on a close contour you must indicate the direction between the points)
To select one of the axes (dependent line, translated contour, parallel to contour, text axes or grain axes) you
just have to make click on it when near the selection cursor appear « ok ».
After selecting the corresponding range, will appear « Internal points sequence” window and in this window you
have to establish the parameters for the sequence.
In this window, you can set the order of the ends for selected element, the type of the points that you want to
add, the offsets for the first and the last point of sequence and the number of points that you need to introduce.
To set the offset of the first point and of the last point you have to write the offset values in the upper side of the
window in the corresponding fields “Offset 1st end” and “Offset 2nd end”. If you will check the message “Invert ends”,
you will change the order of placing the points. Before choosing how will be place the points you can set the type of
points that you need to add (internal point, button hole, pocket, hook hole, button.
After this you must choose how the function will accomplish; in first mode you must insert the number of points
and the distance between them; in the second one you must insert only the number of points; this points will be
equal distributed on the selected range.
After introducing necessary information in the “Internal point sequence” window you must press “OK” button.
The program will create automatically the point sequence according the settings. If you don’t want any more to
create the sequence of internal points press “Cancel” button.
After the Internal points sequence was created, the range can be removed; the auxiliary drawing can be
detached from the main pattern and the internal axes can be deleted.
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Attention! If the internal line or the auxiliary drawing that give the sequence range of the points is graded, the created
internal points will take over this grading. It is recommended to check the new technical points grading.
You must select the internal line that gave the range to
create the sequence.
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1. 2.
In « GARMENT TOOL » mode, a pattern origin can be declared in a interior technical point. You must select the
interior technical point; then click on « Set origin » button on the right side menu. The pattern origin will be moved
automatically in the selected point; X and Z axis will cross this point and the coordinated for the other points will be
automatically recalculated.
The origin is located in the lower Click on « Set origin » button on the The pattern origin is now moved in the
right part of the pattern. You must lower part of the right side menu. technical point. X and Z taxis crosses this
select the technical point in order to point. All coordinates for the other points
move the pattern origin on it. has been automatically recalculated.
If the designed model will be cut from fabric stamped with flowers or striped, you must use matching points to obtain
matches for plaids and stripes. These points are very important later, for markers: the model will be overlapped on
the fabric according to the matching points so as the parts will fit after marking. The matching point is composed by
an anchor that can be placed only on the interior of a pattern and by the pattern mark point. The latter is different
from other technical points and can be placed out of the pattern by declaring the displacement.
When are used printed fabrics, there are two cases that can be found in practice:
A. When the user wants to have the printed shape on a certain location on the garment
B. When the user wants to have a continuity of the drawing from a pattern to another and is not necessary
the drawing to be placed on a certain position.
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A. When the user wants to have the printed shape on a certain location on the garment
For instance, if the model has two parts (termination and top), the fabric is stamped with flowers and if you need the
front flower to be continued on the two parts, you must look for an accurate application of the matching points.
1) Choose an arbitrary matching point on the fabric (for the flower fabric example, you will choose the point where
the stalk starts – marked in red below)
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2) Match a pattern on the fabric and look where the matching point is placed (for the given example, look for the
place where the stalk starts on the front termination part)
By placing the matching point on the fabric face you will be able to set the
coordinates of the matching point
While during the first step, the two elements of the matching point appear
overlapped, it is recommended to set a certain offset to visualize them
separately. By setting the offset, you decide the exact matching point
position on X and Y axis, according to the matching point anchor. After
typing new values for the matching point offset, you MUST click on
« Apply » button or to press ENTER key.
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3) You have two options: either you match one pattern at a time or you assemble the patterns over the sewing line
and follow the overlapping of the matching points. The latter is the most recommended method (assembly patterns over
the sewing line). For the given example, you must first join the two parts of the face and then you must overlap the
matching points..
Add a matching point also on the second part of the face and set its
coordinates similar to the first matching point.
After you have set the position and offset for the matching points, you will
join the patterns that must compose the flower. In « PATTERN » mode,
hold down the ALT key and drag one of the matching points with the
mouse until perfect overlapping with the second one.
After joining the two parts of the fabric front you must look for a perfect
overlapping of the two matching points. If you hold down the ALT key
while dragging, the two points will be magnetized and perfectly
overlapped.
Hold down
to magnetize matching
point over other points
For the striped fabric you must follow the same steps.
The fabric for the designed model The rhombus placement on the fabric front.
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B. When the user wants to have a continuity of the drawing from a pattern to another and is not necessary
the drawing to be placed on a certain position.
When the user wants to have only a continuality of the drawing from a pattern to another the most simply way
to do that is using the function « Create automatically matching points » from « Pattern Tool » mode. In order to
have this function available, the user must select at least two patterns.
For example, if the model, has the front pattern composed by three patterns and will be done from a fabric with
printed flowers, it is important that the drawing (the flowers) to have continuality from a pattern to another.
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Note: Matching points will be always created with the anchor point on the grain axis, like will be always placed
inside the pattern.
Note: The patterns must have always a grain axis. It must have the same orientation and rotation on al selected
If the selected patterns don’t have grain axis or it doesn’t have same orientation or rotation will appear a
warning message. It will be automatically created a grain axis on the patterns that didn’t had one and will reoriented
the grain axis for the patterns that don’t have it on same direction and rotation.
The grain axis will be created automatically on a 180 degree and if all the patterns don’t have same orientation,
than the entire axis than have a different angle than 180 degree will be orientated so it will become 180 degree.
Note: Those patterns that have the matching point defined can be aligned in “Pattern Tool” mode on a direction
by using it. (see chapter…)
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Any pattern designed in Gemini Pattern Editor must have a grain axis. The grain axis has the following functions:
- Set the sense and direction to place a pattern on the lay, according to the fabric texture
- By the coordinates of the starting point, the grain axis sets the overlapping point for the material print, if you will
use textured or printed fabric
- It is the support for the text that describes the pattern name and size.
To apply the grain axis on a pattern, enter the « GARMENT TOOL » mode, click on the pattern, click on the «
Create grain axis » button. Click again with the cursor on the pattern in the point where you want to set the start for
the grain axis; then click on the point where ends the grain axis.
If you hold down SHIFT when you select “Create grain axis” function you will define many grain axes by using
this function in a repetitive mode. Using the function in the repetitive mode will Hold down
allow you to add many axes on any pattern from your working area without
making click on the function for each grain axis added. On a pttern you can
define only one grain axis.
When a function is used in this mode, the function’s button will show when you select “Create grain axis” to define many gra
pressed till you leave the repetitive mode. To leave the repetitive mode you
must press Esc key.
If you select a new function from Garmet tool bar whille you are in repetitive
mode, the new selected function will work in repetitive mode too.
After you have created the axis, you will be able to set its rotation, length and position, by precise coordinates.
If the grain axes were added in the repetitive mode, when you will leave this mode, all axes added in this way
will be selected and you can set the common properties in the right panel.
In the « GARMENT TOOL » Click on the pattern in the point where you Click on the point where ends the grain axis.
mode, click on the "Create want to set the start for the grain axis While the axis position and rotation are
grain axis" button. manually set, you can observe a deviation
from the needed angle and position. The
correct axis length and position can be set
precisely by typing the exact coordinates.
Setting the angle, length and position for the grain axis
Click on the pattern The axis length can The grain axis After an exact setting for the rotation, length and
then on the grain axis; be modified by position can be axis position, press ENTER key or click on the «
type the exact value typing the new modified by Apply » button. The grain axis will be
for the angle of the values in the entering the automatically placed at the entered coordinates.
the grain axis with the corresponding coordinates for the To display the pattern name and size
horizontal line boxes axis starting point automatically, click « Show/hide pattern name »
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If a pattern has a grain axis, you can rotate it at any moment so as the grain line will be horizontal (see chapter
1.5.20). The grain axis position and rotation are essential for a correct nesting. The program for automatic nesting
always uses the grain axis as a positioning marker.
The grain axis must be long enough so as the pattern name to be completely displayed on it. The grain axis must
be placed so as the pattern name remains inside the pattern, without crossing its contour. This placement must be
verified for the base size and for the graded sizes.
The grain axis rotation and position can also be graded (for example, in order to stay parallel with a segment on the
pattern that changes its own rotation following the grading process). (see paragraphs 1.10.13 and 1.10.14)
After cutting a pattern, the grain axis can remain out of the pattern contour. Gemini Pattern Editor verifies
permanently that the grain axis is placed inside the pattern. If necessary, the program makes the required
modifications to bring back the grain axis in a correct position.
There are many situations when you need to draw a line inside a pattern. This internal line can be of various types,
according to its function.
While frequently the grain axis is very short, the pattern name was printed out of the pattern contour. Gemini
Pattern Editor gives the possibility to display the pattern name and size not on the grain axis but on a new text axis.
The text axis can also be used to display other tips than pattern name and size.
To apply a text on a pattern, enter the « GARMENT TOOL » mode, click on the pattern, and then click on the
« Create text axis ». Click again with the cursor on the pattern, at the desired start point for the text axis; then click
on the desired end point for the text axis.
If you hold down SHIFT when you select “Create text axis” function you will define many text axes by using this
function in a repetitive mode. Using the function in the repetitive mode will allow Hold down
you to add many axes on any pattern from your working area without making
click on the function for each text axis added.
When a function is used in this mode, the function’s button will show
pressed till you leave the repetitive mode. To leave the repetitive mode you when you select “Create text axis” to define many text
must press Esc key.
If you select a new function from Garmet tool bar whille you are in repetitive
mode, the new selected function will work in repetitive mode too.
After you have created the text axis you can define its type. If you have
chosen « Text » or « Piece name » type, you may edit the text that will be printed on the axis. After you have
created a text axis, you may change its rotation, length and position by entering the precise coordinates. All these
settings can be done in the right side docker, that appears when you select such an axis.
If the text axes were added in the repetitive mode, when you will leave this mode, all axes added in this way
will be selected and you can set the common properties in the right panel.
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Hold down
While you draw the text axis hold down CTRL key; the
text axis will be perfectly horizontal, vertical or on 15, 30,
45, 60, 75, 90 degrees angles related to the X and Y axis.
while you draw the text axis in order to obtain a precise angle related to system co
In the properties menu for the internal line you can edit:
*Type : - You can define the type for the defined
internal line.
« Simple » line – will be drawn as a helping line inside the pattern; it will not be printed and cut.
« Text » line – on such line type, you can insert a text that will be displayed and printed with the
selected pattern.
« Pattern name » line – is an internal line that can be used as support for pattern name and
size. They will not be displayed anymore on the grain axis but on the internal line set as «
Pattern name » line.
*Cut on the cutting machine – An internal line can be cut on the cutter
if you check the box near the message « Cut on the cutting machine
» .The simple lines will not be cut even if this option is checked.
Internal line parameters
*Angle - you can change the angle for the text axis
*Length – you can define dimensions for a text axis/internal line.
The internal line length cannot be edited if the line is unlimited (if the « Narrow » box is unchecked).
*Text – for the « Text » internal lines, you can insert the text that must appear on the pattern axis, in the field under
the message « Text ». This field will be inactive for the « Simple » and « Pattern name» internal lines.
Position:
You can define the precise coordinates (horizontal and vertical) for the start and end line points.
To validate changes in the properties menu, you must click on « Apply » button or you must press ENTER key
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On the « Text » internal lines you can edit a message After you enter the message, you must click on ENTER
that will be displayed and printed on the pattern, over key or click on the « Apply » button
the axis. in the right side docker
You must click in the field under « Text: » and you type The message will be displayed along the
the message using the keyboard. internal line/text axis.
2. Create points at the intersection between the pattern contour and the internal line
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You may design only half of the symmetrical patterns while the Gemini Pattern Editor realizes their symmetrization
to obtain the final patterns. Gemini Pattern Editor program considers a pattern as symmetrical if it fulfills two
conditions:
- To have a declared symmetry axis
- The « Symmetry (half) » box in the pattern properties to be checked
To simplify the declaration process for a symmetrical pattern, when you declare the symmetry axis on a
pattern, the « Symmetry (half) » option will be automatically checked.
At the final model verification, before extracting the patterns for cutting, it is better to verify if the mentioned
conditions are fulfilled.
To declare the grain axis on a pattern: in « GARMENT TOOL » mode, click on a pattern to select it, then click with
the cursor on the contour segment over which the pattern will be symmetrized; then click on « Create symmetry
axis » button.
IMPORTANT: The segment that is declared as symmetry axis must be always a straight line. Symmetrization
cannot be done over a curved line.
Hold down
If you hold down SHIFT when you select “Create symmetry axis” function you
will define many symmetry axes by using this function in a repetitive mode. Using
the function in the repetitive mode will allow you to define many symmetry axes on
any pattern from your working area without making clickwhen on the function
you for each
select “Create symmetry axis” to define many symmetry axes in repetit
axis definition. On a pttern you can define only one symmetry axis.
When a function is used in this mode, the function’s button will show pressed
till you leave the repetitive mode. To leave the repetitive mode you must press
Esc key.
If you select a new function from Garmet tool bar whille you are in repetitive
mode, the new selected function will work in repetitive mode too.
When you leave this mode, all symmetry axes defined in this way will be selected and you can set their common
properties in the right panel.
Click on « Create symmetry Place the cursor over the line The symmetry axis is created and marked by a red
axis » button. you want to be the symmetry dotted line. At the same time, the «Symmetric
axis and after “OK” is displayed (half)» option is automatically checked in the
near the cursor, click on the properties list of the pattern
line.
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An another possibility for creating a symmetry axis is to select first the line which will be the symmetry axis and then
click on the “Create symmetry axis” function.
Click on the contour segment The symmetry axis is created and marked by a red
chosen to be the symmetry Click on « Create symmetry dotted line. At the same time, the «Symmetric
axis. This segment MUST be axis » button. (half)» option is automatically checked in the
a straight line. properties list of the pattern
If a pattern has a declared symmetry axis and the « Symmetric (half) » option is checked, you can display the
complete symmetrized pattern by definitive symmetrization of the original pattern (see chapters 1.5.7 şi 1.5.8).
You can choose to automatically add the notches that will mark the position for
the symmetry axis. If you don’t want to create the notches, you must uncheck
the message « Add notches on pattern ».
In this menu you can find also the buttons for operations on the symmetry axis.
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Click to select the pattern and click to select the pattern symmetry
axis. The symmetry axis is marked by a red dotted line while in the
right side docker it will be displayed the menu properties for the
symmetry axis.
cursor
In the right side docker you must click on « Edit symmetry axis » button.
The cursor will transform into a thick horizontal arrow, called,
« selection cursor ».
You must move the cursor over the segment that will become the new
symmetry axis; when the cursor gets over a segment that may
become a symmetry axis, near the cursor appears an OK. Click on this
segment. The cursor will get back to the normal shape in « GARMENT
TOOL » mode and the selected segment will become the new
symmetry axis and will be represented by a red dotted line.
Then click on the button « Delete symmetry axis » in the lower part of
the right side docker, or press the DELETE key.
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In “Garment Tool” we have a function which allows us to create automatically hatchings on the existing
patterns. This function is useful for patterns made from fabrics with quilting.
For creating a hatching you have to click on “Create hatching” function from “Garment Tool”. This function contains three options for creating
“Create hatching: point-angle-distance”,
“Create hatching: point-point-distance”,
“Create hatching: point-point-point”.
The common element of these three options is the first point, which will be the starting (reference) point of the hatching. The starting (referenc
The following operations can be applied for the hatchings: changing the position of the reference point,
changing the angle of the lines of the hatching, changing the distance between the lines of the hatching, deleting
the hatching.
On each pattern you can create several hatchings.
After creating a hatching, the following properties are displayed on the right side of the screen:
- “Reference point”: shows the coordinates of the starting (reference) point according to the current origin point
of the pattern. By changing these coordinates and pressing on the “Apply” button, the position of the reference point
is modified.
- “Move with”: moves the reference point of the hatching with the entered values on the “dX” and “dY” fields,
according to the current position of the reference point. To validate the moving you have to press “Move with”
button after you enter the X and Y moving distances.
- “Angle”: in the field of this option the angular offset of the hatching lines is displayed. This offset can be
modified by entering a new value and pressing “Apply”.
- “Rotate with”: This option allows us to modify the angular offset of the hatching lines according to the current
position of these lines. To validate the rotation you have to press “Rotate with” button after you enter the rotation
angle.
- “Distance”: the distance between the hatching lines is displayed and it can be also modified. After entering the
new distance you have to press “Apply”.
- “Delete hatching”: deletes the selected hatching(s). A hatching can also be deleted by selecting it and pressing
“Delete” key from keyboard.
This option is used when you want to create a hatching with the following elements: a point for the hatching line
to go through, the absolute angular offset of the hatching lines and the distance between the hatching lines.
To create this type of hatching you have to follow the steps below:
cursor
Click on “Create hatching” function from “Garment Tool” and from the
appearing menu chose “Create hatching: point-angle-distance” option.
1. Click on the pattern you want to create the hatching to select it. This
click for selection is always necessary even if the pattern was selected
before.
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This option can be used when the user has two points for the hatching to go through (these two points will
automatically define the angular offset of the hatching) and the distance between the hatching lines.
To create this type of hatching you have to follow the steps below:
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This option can be used when the user has defined precisely three points for the hatching to go through. One
of the hatching lines will go through the first two selected points and these points will also define the angular offset
of the hatching. By selecting the third point a zone is defined between this point and the line created by the
previously selected two points. The user can chose the number of hatching lines of this zone.
To create this type of hatching you have to follow the steps below:
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To select a hatching, click on one of the hatching lines. If a pattern contains more then one hatching the user has to
select with attention in order not to select accidentally another hatching
In “Garment Too” mode when it isn’t selected any internal element, on the right side of the screen, appears a
window with multiple selection functions of internal elements. Using these functions it is possible to select one,
more or all internal elements from a project. These elements can be: notches (all categories), dependent lines,
translated contour, parallel contour, grain axis, symmetry axis, internal lines, internal points, folds, darts and pleats.
Function “ Distance notch” activation allows only the multiple selection of the distance
notches from the opened model
Distance notch
Function “Percent notch” activation allows only the multiple selections of the percent
notches from the opened model
Percent notch
Function “ Intersection notch” activation permits the multiple selection only of the
intersection notches from the opened model.
Intersection
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notch
Function “Corner notch” activation permits the multiple selection only of the corner notch
from the opened model
Cornet notch
Function “Dependent line” activation allows the multiple selections of the dependent lines
from the opened model.
Dependent line
Function “Translated contour” activation allows the multiple selection of the translated
Translated contour from the opened model.
contour
Function “Parallel” activation allows the multiple selection of the parallel contour from the
opened model.
Parallel
Function “Symmetry axis” activation allows the multiple selection of the symmetry axis from
the opened model.
Symmetry axis
Function “Grain axis” activation allows the multiple selection of the grain axis from the
opened model
Grain axis
Function “Text axis” activation allows the multiple selection of the text axis from the opened
model
Text axis
Function “Internal point” activation allows the multiple selection of the internal points from
the opened model
Internal point
Function “Fold” activation allows the multiple selection of the folds from the opened model
Fold
Function “Darts” activation allows the multiple selection of the darts from the opened model
Darts
Function “Folded Darts” activation allows the multiple selection of the folded darts from the
opened model
Folded darts
In order to activate the multiple selections for one of the categories mentioned above it must be activated the
function of the category from which the element belongs. Function activation is done by selecting the right button.
When a function is active, its name appears on a grey fond.
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When are more internal elements of same type selected, in the right side of the screen, at Properties, will
appear filled only the fields that have common properties for all selected elements. The fields for the properties that
are not common will remain unfilled.
When the button “Apply” is pressed will be considered only the properties that had values changed. In this
case, for the fields that remain unfilled, the values will remain the old one.
Attention! If is selected an interior element different from the one was set, all interior elements selected previously
will be unselected and the selection type will change on the new interior element, the last interior element type
selected.
« GRADING » mode offers the functions needed for grading a model starting from the base size, in order to obtain,
for each size, the dimensions for the model specifications or according to standard grading rules.
1.10.1 Introduction
To grade a pattern you must specify either the increase/decrease step for each grade point on the pattern contour
or the difference from the base size. The contour lines and the curved points change the shape and position
according to the grade points movements, in order to create the modified shape for each graded size.
In each point grading table are stored grading rules in four tables corresponding to each category of sizes from Size
Set and vice versa, for each size category from Size Set is corresponding a table in grading point table.
A step-by-step point movement from a size to another is called « the rule for grading point ». This rule can be
memorized and edited using a grading table. The elements of a grading table and their usage are described below.
To grade a model you MUST define the sizes set to be used for grading. The size set is only a list of conventional
names:
- 40, 42, 44, 46, 48, 50, 52, ....
- small, medium, large, extra large
- S, M, L, XL, XXL,
Naming the size does not involve the model dimensions. These names are simply conventions for sizes
and can be different according to a specific country or producer.
The most important part of a size set is the sizes name list. Gemini Pattern Editor allows you to save other
information related to these sizes, as:
- real model dimensions for each size on the set,
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The designer that uses Gemini Pattern Editor can load different predefined size sets that are included in the original
distribution. You can also define your own size set either as simple name list or more elaborated, by adding
dimensions with precise values for each size on the set; these dimensions can be useful later in the design step.
Generally, a new user of the Gemini Pattern Editor program will create some sets of sizes, will save them on the
hard disk and will use them for the most part of the designed models. A user will rarely need to create a new size
set.
To edit the size set of a model, enter the « GRADING » mode and click on the « Edit size
button » on the upper left corner menu.
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Update indexes
The user can change the
index name used in a size set
without influence the model
grading. Click on the index
and change its name.
In order not to change
automatically the combine
size name when the index is
renamed the box “Generate
automatically” must be
unchecked
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In Gemini Pattern Editor, there are three grading modes for a point.
a. geometrical grading
b. XY grading
c. derived grading
b. XY grading
This point has a position defined by horizontal and vertical coordinates from the system origin on the base size;
then, using this position as reference, it memorizes the horizontal and/or vertical movement as grading rule.
In Gemini Pattern Editor, a grading point has four grading table: grade, drop, spec and extra. At point grading
can be used either one table (usually grade) or any combination (two, three or all four tables). Final grading will
summarize grading on x and y from all four tables.
c. Derived grading
Instead of derived rules and transformations now for each coordinate X and y can be set a complex formula.
The formula’s members can be: vertical grading of one point, horizontal grading of one point, direct (diagonal)
grading, grading step between 2 points on horizontal and or vertical and grading distance variation between 2
points
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In any working mode, near the base size the program can display the graded sizes for a pattern. To display a
pattern grading, first click on the pattern to select it in any working mode. Then click on the « Show / hide grading »
button. If the button down, the grading is displayed; if the button is up, the grading is invisible and only the base size
can be seen.
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The contour of the graded patterns is displayed in different colors for each size. You can change the colors in the
size set window, as described previously. For each graded point, there is a line that follows the point movements
from a size to another, in order to facilitate the grading observation.
IMPORTANT: In « GRADING » mode, the pattern grading is displayed automatically. There is no need to click on the
« Show / hide grading » button.
For displaying grading according for a grading table, must be checked the corresponding box next to the activation
buttons in the Grade toolbox. Can be selected the checkbox corresponding to an only table and in this case, at
selection of pattern in ‘Grading’ mode, will be displayed the grading corresponding to the table or can be selected
all checkboxes. All checkboxes can be selected simultaneous.
In case when is desired to hide the grading from certain grading tables, uncheck the box next to corresponding
activation buttons.
If the pattern is not selected (by selecting another pattern or if you click out of a pattern), the grading will not be
displayed. If you want to keep displayed the grading for a pattern, even if it is not selected, you MUST select the
pattern, then click the « Show / hide grading » button.
Grading table of a point is the most important element for a pattern grading and also for a model grading. In the
grading table you will find how a point position is changing from one size to another, in order to obtain the proper
pattern dimensions.
The point position on the grading sizes can be memorized either as displacement compared the base size or as
displacement compared to the previous size.
A point has four grading tables: « Grade », « Drop », « Spec » and « Extra ». These can be defined or not
according to the content of Size Set. For example, if in the size set are defined sizes in the Grade and Drop
columns, in the point grading table will be displayed only Grade and Drop tables.
In each point grading table are visible sizes and index but not size combinations. At the end, after inserting the
values, and pressing Accept button, grading will result from summarize the grading on X and Y from each table, for
all combined sizes if exists.
The grading table can be displayed for a single point or for multiple points in same time. In the cases when, you
want to display the grading table for one point, you have to select the point, by making a click on the point or click
the left mouse button + drag to draw a rectangle that will comprise the point and then click on the « Edit the grading
table of
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the point » button in the upper left corner menu. In the cases when you want to display the grading table for multiple
points, you have to select the points by making a click on each point +SHIFT key pressed or by window selection
and then click on the « Edit the grading table of the point » button in the upper left corner menu.
If the selected points have different grading rule in the grading table the column for X and Y will be grey colored. In
this case, the value displayed in the grey column is the grading rule of the last selected point. If the selected points
have the same grading rule, then in the grading table the column for X and Y will be white colored.
For a fast display of the grading table, after the points were selected, make a click with the right mouse button on
the working area.
Display the point grading table
or
Left-mouse click to select the point.Keep pressed the Shift key and select the second point.
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Also there is a
correspondence between
activation buttons from
Grade toolbox and active
table at opening point
grading table (if in Grade
toolbox is pressed ‘Grade’
button, at opening of point
grading table, the active
table will be « Grade »
table, if the Drop’ button is
pressed, at opening of
point grading table, active
table will be « Drop »
table).
Also is a correspondence
between activation buttons
from Grade toolbox and
active table at opening og
point grading table (if in
Grade toolbox is pressed
‘Drop’ button, at opening of
point grading table, active
table will be « Drop Table
»).
Note: When activating a grading table using the function from the second tool bar, the program will display
automatically the grading for this type of grading. This grading will remain displayed on the pattern and you cannot
hide it using the check button from the second tool bar. To do this, you will have to show a different type of grading,
using the check button from the second tool bar corresponding to that grading, and then activate the corresponding
table for the last one. Now you can hide or display grading for all grading types.
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In the grading table window there are displayed two tabs: “Normal”,” Rotate” and an edit field “Angle direction”.
When the axis system is rotated in the grading table tab will be displayed the value of the angle with which the
system was rotated and in the “Rotate” tab will be displayed the grading on which was already applied the axis
rotation.
The point position movement from the base size in X and Y axis is memorized on dx and dy columns.
The values in dx and dy columns can be changed by the user in order to modify the point grading.
The dl column is calculated automatically and represents the total distance between the position of the graded point
and its position on the case size.
The point position movement from the anterior size is memorized on Step X and Step Y columns; this is the
grading step, on horizontal and on vertical. If the point has a uniform grading, the step will be the same between all
sizes. If there is a gap between two sizes, the step will be wider or narrower. The movement steps for Step X and
Step Y can be changed to grade that point at will.
Any change of the grading steps in columns Step X and Step Y will induce the automatic recalculation of the
movements from the base size dx and dy. Reversely, if you modify the dx and dy values, the values for Step X and
Step Y will be modified automatically
Most frequently, grading is the result of grading steps description that is obtained by editing the Step X and Step Y
columns. The advantage of this method is that if you want to change a grading step between two sizes, the next
sizes will be moved correspondently to the base size; you don’t have to make any manual modification.
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ATTENTION! For the geometrical grading or for the derived grading, the point grading table cannot be edited.
The grading rule can be visualized and saved on the disk (see chapter 1.10.6 e )
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Important : All operations carried out in the point grading table described in paragraphs a, b, c, d are applying for
active table (selected grade table: grade, drop, spec or extra). For switching from one table to another select with
left click desired table from toolbar).
f) How to save a grading rule in a file. How to load and apply a grading rule from a file.
The grading rule of a point is the grading table content; it represents all the movements done by a point in order to
obtain a new size in the graded size list. This grading rule can be saved in a file and can be used later for an
automatic grading of another point. You can also save multiple grading rules (for a point or a succession of points)
in a single file.
Save the grading rule
or
To save the grading rules of a point, click on the « Save the grading rule of the point ». This button can be accessed from the but
« central point grading under sleeve») then click the « Save » button.
or
To load an already saved rule, click on the
« Load and apply the grading rule file ». This button can be accessed from the button bar specific for GRADING mode or on the b
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a) Grading linearization
If the grading rule for a point has different grading steps between the sizes and you want to standardize these
steps, you can use the linearization function. Select the point or the points chosen for rule linearization then
click the
« Linearize point grading » button. The program will calculate the mean of the grading steps and will apply a
common step between all sizes from active table.
By example, if a point has grading on Grade and Drop and active table is Grade, at pressing of linearization button,
this operation will be carried out only for Grade. To do this operation for Drop, select Drop grading table as active
table and press Linearization button.
Note: To linearize several grading tables, repeat for each one the procedure of selecting active table and pressing
of linearize button.
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Note: To symetrize several grading tables, repeat for each one the procedure of selecting active table and pressing
of symetrize button.
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Note: To Rotate several grading tables, repeat for each one the procedure of selecting active table and pressing of
rotation button.
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At pressing of arrow next to « Copy point grading in At pressing of arrow next to « Transfer grading from
clipboard » a menu is unfolding where can be selected clipboard » a menu is unfolding where can be selected
copy grading mode transfer grading mode
Copy grading from one point to another can be done by using a keyboard shortcut:
- CTRL + F – to memorize in clipboard point grading rule;
- CTRL + G – to transfer from clipboard memorized grading rule.
To use this shortcut, select active grading table, select reference point, press CTRL + F to memorize grading rule.
Select then destination point/points and press CTRL + G. Memorized grading rule is just the one from active
grading table; this rule remain in clipboard and can be transferred later to other point/points by pressing CTRL + G.
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Can be observed that grading rule from the point above was
copied identical on the point bellow. For an accurate result,
grading rule in this point must be flipped horizontally.
Note. To eliminate horizontal flip, can be used « Copy grading
with X flip » button and then « Paste grading » button.
Note: To copy grading from several grading tables, repeat for each one the procedure of selecting active table,
selecting reference point, copy grading and transferring grading rule in destination points.
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Select the origin points for grading copy. You can select
multiple points by click and drag a selection rectangle of
by holding down the SHIFT key, while you click on the
points.
After selecting the points, press « Copy point grading in
clipboard » button or the CTRL+F key combination to
memorize the grading rules.
Select the origin points for grading copy. You can select
multiple points by click and drag a selection rectangle of
by holding down the SHIFT key, while you click on the
points.
The selection order for the origin points is important for
grading rule copy while it must correspond with the
selection order of the destination points.
Note: To copy grading from several grading tables, repeat for each one the procedure of selecting active table,
selecting reference point, copy grading and transferring grading rule in destination points.
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For the points on the same pattern you can copy the grading on a single axis
(vertical or horizontal grading). For the points on the same pattern, the
grading rule can be copied for both axis either by CTRL + F followed by CTRL
+ G method, described above, or directly, by a click on « Copy grading
horizontally and vertically » button. Select the first point to copy the rule from,
hold down the SHIFT key and click to select the point where the rule will be
copied. Then, upon situation, click on one of the buttons « Copy horizontally
the grading rule », « Copy vertically the grading rule » or « Copy grading
horizontally and vertically ». If, for example, you will click on « Copy
horizontally the grading rule », only the grading steps on horizontal will be
copied, while the vertical grading steps for the destination point will remain
unchanged.
Click to select the point to Hold down the SHIFT key Click on « Copy vertically The vertical grading rule of
copy the vertically grading and click to select the the grading rule » button the first point was copied and
rule from point where the grading applied to the second point.
You can see that the first
rule will be copied
point is graded also
horizontally while the second
point is not.
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Copy grading rule horizontally and vertically, between two points on the same pattern
Grading with the keyboard arrows is fast and useful especially for small adjustments of pattern matching. First click
to select a pattern then click to select one or more points. Each press on a keyboard arrow, increase or decrease
the horizontal or vertical grading steps by 1 mm. If you hold down CTRL key, the step will be of 0.1 mm.
The grading adjustment with keyboard arrows is very fast. The results are instantly displayed. You can grade
multiple points simultaneously from keyboard arrows. This method can be used together with the measurement
table (the watcher) (see chapter 1.11 « MEASURE AND CHECK TOOL » mode) for a perfect match on all graded
sizes for all patterns to be seam together.
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In the “Grading” working tool mode there is the possibility to modify the length of a curve for each size or for all
the sizes using the function „Grade curve length” . The selected curve on which will be applied the reshape will
change its dimension according to reshape type choose by the user. You can choose from the following situations:
1. 2.
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1.10.10 Alignment of the graded sizes. Pack in point and pack on the line
In « GRADING » mode the graded sizes can be aligned in different ways without a shape change. This alignment is
useful to observe how a pattern evolves from a size to another, by using a fixed point or a fixed line. This graded
size repositioning from the base size does not create any modification on the graded sizes; it only translates them
and eventually rotate them to be aligned differently.
The alignment (« pack ») can be temporary or permanent. Temporary alignment is maintained on the screen up to
the first mouse click; after that, the patterns comes back to the initial shape. Permanent alignment produces the
permanent movement of the positions for the graded sizes, by automatic recalculation of the grading table. Both
temporary and permanent alignment can be done on a single axis (horizontally OR vertically).
To align graded sizes to one or two points, you must select the pattern, and then click to select the point(s) while
holding down the SHIFT key. Click on « Align temporary graded sizes to selected points » or « Align permanently
graded sizes to selected points ».
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1.
2.
The graded sizes are translated to
Click on the first point for the alignment overlap in the first point for alignment,
Click on the temporary
(1.) Then hold down the SHIFT key and then rotated on a direction given by
alignment button or on the
click on the second point for the the second alignment point. The
permanent alignment button shape of the graded sizes remains the
alignment.
same and the rotation angle is low.
If the alignment is done on a single point, the graded sizes will be translated only for overlapping in that point. If the
alignment is done in two points, the sizes will be translated AND rotated, to overlap the first point and rotation
direction toward the second point to be the same on all patterns.
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For a fast grading of beveled segments on the pattern contour, you can use the function for grading a point on a
given direction. Usually, in order to calculate the horizontal and vertical movement for the points on the beveled
segments, you have to rotate the pattern, so as the beveled segment will be repositioned horizontally.
Now, with the new function, you don’t have to rotate the patterns, while you can grade a point just by indicating the
direction, angle and movement distance.
To realize such a grading, you must click to select the point to be graded, then another point that will indicate the
grading direction, then click on « Grading a point on a direction » button. When you click on this button, a grading
table opens and here you can edit only the distance in the column « dist » and the angle value between the grading
direction and the direction given by the two selected points.
After you select the two points, you must click on the « Edit point grading on
direction » located on the button bar, in GRADING mode. When you click on
this button, a grading table opens; here you can edit only the « dist » column
and the angle field.
This function works only as an automatic calculator for the X step and Y step values, based on the applied
geometrical transformations. When you reopen the grading table for a graded point by this function, the table will
not keep any information that indicates the usage of this method; the opened table is identical with any point with
XY grading.
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When a grading point is selected, the axis system becomes active and it can be rotated according to the user
needs and it can be magnetized to different elements like: grading points, internal elements etc.
The value of the rotation angle of an anterior selected point, can be given to a certain grading point which the
user needs to have to same direction with the last selected point
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Attention: By rotation of a system axis the grading rule of the selected point will not be changed. Will be
changed only the values from the “Rotated” tab. To grade on a certain direction indicated by the system axis
rotation the user will have to edit the “Rotate” tab. changing the values from the “Rotate” tab will change
automatically he changes from the “Normal” tab.
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The base size is displayed filled with the base color. The base size can be changed with any of the other sizes,
without any effective change of the size dimensions. This way you will be able to modify the pattern shape by
working on different sizes. You can also make marry and measurements verifications on each graded size.
To change the base size, enter the « GRADING » mode and check the preferred base size in the right side menu.
The patterns will be displayed by the selected base size.
For the combined set sizes, the base size can be changed on each set size: Grade, Drop, Spec and Extra.
If the set size doesn’t contain all the combined sizes, when it is checked a base size will be unchecked the sizes
that if would be checked would generate a size that is not checked in current checked set size or which it doesn’t
exist in the complete size set.
Under the set size it is a icon that gives information about the last base size used.
Attention! If the base size is changed and afterward the user accrues to the last base size used the icon that shows
the last base size used will not change.
In « GRADING » mode, in the right side menu, appears the sizes list used in the current model. The base size is already
checked and can be changed by a click on another size.
The base size is always displayed filled while the graded sizes have different contour colors.
After you click on size 38, this size becomes the base size. All following design operations will be done on this size.
You can observe that the shape and the dimensions of the graded sizes did not change. All grading tables are recalculated starting from the n
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1.10.13 Distribution of model sizes on grading groups with different base sizes
If the shape of a pattern varies too much between the sizes and this shape cannot be reproduced anymore only by
points grading (example: on large sizes appears a dart), you can use multiple grade sets of patterns for a model;
each set will have its own base size. A pattern in a model can be part of the general grading set or part of a partial
grading set.
To add a new grading group to a model and to distribute the graded sizes of a model into multiple grading groups
you have to edit the size set from the specific editing window. Enter the « GRADING » mode and click on « Edit
size set » button.
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To change a grading group for a pattern, enter the « GRADING » mode, click to select the pattern, then choose the
grading group from the right side menu.
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In the list with grading groups with different bases you can find the grading groups inserted in the size set and
also a common set that contain all sizes. When you move a pattern from one grading group to another, the base
size of that pattern is changed and the size list is active only for the sizes allocated to the specific group.
When a pattern is moved from a common grading group to a partial one, its size will be transferred correctly.
When a pattern is moved from one partial grading group to another, its size cannot be recalculated accurately
while the base size of the new group is not part of the old grading group. Thus, the pattern cannot be graded to
reach the new size.
In GRADING mode, you can add a new size at the size set that is already graded. The new size can be added
anywhere you need in the size set. The new size place in the size set will be established according to the indexes
fields. The size will be placed in the size set next to the size that has the biggest index from the sizes with the index
smallest than the new size index. It will be graded proportionally with the neighboring sizes from the size set. The
grading step will be also calculated proportionally with the grading step of the neighboring sizes.
To add a new size in the graded size set, enter the « GRADING » mode, click on « Edit size set » button.
If you want to add a new size into a simple size set, containing a single grading type, you will have to use one of the
following functions: “Add a new size” or “Add a new grade size”. After activating one of these two buttons, a new
window called “New combined size” becomes displayed on the screen. Here you can establish the new size name
by typing in the “Combined name” field. The program adds automatically an index for the new size, and this index
will always place the size at the end of the size set. If you want to place it, in another position in the size set, you
can do this by changing the size index. If you want the new size to be added at the size set beginning the index
must be smaller than “1” and if you want to add it between two sizes you will have to input an index having the
value between the two indexes values of the sizes between which you want to add the new one.
If you want to add the new size in a combined size set, you have the possibility to add new sizes for all sizes types.
For this you will have to make a click on one of the “Add a new Grade size in the size set”, “Add a new Drop size in
the size set”, “Add a new Spec size in the size set” or “Add a new Extra size in the size set” functions. After
activating one of these functions, a new window will become displayed on the screen. Here, you will be able to type
the new sizes names, in the “Grade name”, “Drop name”, “Spec name” or “Extra name” fields depending on the
size that you want to add and to establish the size position in the size set. In addition, you have the possibility to
add directly the
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new combined size. After adding a new size, the new combined sizes will be added automatically in the size set list.
Click on the “Accept” button to save the new size set.
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To have a complex size set, you need to have grade sizes plus at least one type from the other grading types: Drop
sizes, Spec sizes or Extra sizes.
Before adding a new size, the user must click on the special size name to activate it. For e.g., if you want to add a
“Drop” size, and you don’t have this type of sizes in the size set yet, make a click on the “Drop” button. Before
activating, this button has a grey background, and after activating, it will be displayed on a blue background and it
will have hook next to its name. In this moment you can add a drop size.
When adding one of the special sizes, the program will combine this size with the already existing size, and it will
generate new combined sizes, as you will be able to see in the picture below.
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After pressing « Generate » button, a new size set will be created, composed by combined sizes
For those cases, when the user wants to eliminate completely one grading group from the size set, he can do this
easily by uncheck it corresponding column.
After eliminating the grading group, in the “Edit size set window” will remain repeated sizes (having the same indexes
and the same name). To eliminate the repeated sizes the user must check the “Remove duplicate sizes” option from the
“Edit size set window” . When this option is checked, each size from the size set will apear only once.
Check the “Remove duplicate size”
from the right down corner of the
“Edit size” window.
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In « GRADING » mode you can delete a size from a set that is already graded. By deleting a size from an existing
size set none of the existing grading will be lost.
To delete a size from an already graded project in « GRADING » mode you must click on « Edit size set »
button. In the “Edit size set” window, you will have to make a click on the size that you want to delete and then use
the “Delete the selected size from the size set” button.
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You can cancel the grading into a point only for the active table, in addition before starting to cancel grading into a
point, you will have to set as active table the table for which you need to cancel grading. After activating the table,
pick up the “Cancel the grading of the selected points”, and then follow the message from the new opened window,
or from the left bottom screen if the setting “Show function steps” is unchecked.
To cancel the whole model grading, click on « Cancel grading » button.
Obs. To cancel the grading in the other grading table of a selected point, select the active table, select the point
and press « Cancel grading for points »
Attention: When « Cancel all grading » function is selected, from the menu that appears when the right arrow is
pressed, will be deleted the grading from all the patterns from the model, the set size as well.
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1.10.18 Modification of one size without modifying the other set sizes
In the “Grading Tool” mode you can modify one size without modifying the other pattern sizes. In order to do
that, the size that will be modified must be set as base size and than can be pressed the “Modify the shape f the
pattern on the base size without changing the other sizes” button. As long as this button is pressed the size can be
modify exactly like in “Shape Tool” mode. The pattern shape can be changed by dragging with the mouse from the
grading points, curve points, control points. A precise modification of the pattern shape can be done by using the
keyboard arrows.
All the curve points and control points will not actualize automatic the grading table. They will keep the
grade table.
There are two ways to change the base size without changing the other sizes:
controlled manual
free manual
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2. Modification of the selected point position using the arrow from the keyboard or arrows plus CTRL key.
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B.Free modificatrion:
4.Point modification using ALT key to magnetize it to other point on a different pattern
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Obs. Passing from a grading point to another on same pattern can be done by using TAB key in clock wise
direction. If during the gradation were selected distant notches it wil be passed to next distance notch. If during the
gradation were selected various internal elements (internal points, grain axis, text axis) will be passed to next
gradable element. In order to go back to the previous element, the user must press the key combination ; SHIFT
+TAB
If you want to cancel the grading tables for the curve points of the pattern on which you changed the base size
shape without modify the other pattern sizes press “Cancel the „manual modification” for grading tables” and then
select :
- « Cancel the “manual modification” for points » if you wish to cancel manual grading just for selected curve
points;
- « Cancel the “manual modification” for the pattern» if you wish to cancel manual grading in all manual
modify curve points or control points on the selected pattern;
After selecting one of this options, the grading of all curve points and control points on the pattern which were
manually modified, will be actualized.
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The technical interior points can be graded as any other graded point. Click to select the pattern, select the
technical interior point and click on the right mouse button to display the grading table.
By the same method, you can grade the points that define the grain axis. Even if the grading of the grain axis
rotation seems to be useless, it can be important to maintain this grain axis parallel to a specific contour segment
that changes its position by grading. This is illustrated in the following example.
Beside the possibility to grade some technical elements as axis and technical interior points, Gemini Pattern
Designer allows the grading of the distance notches. To grade a distance notch, set the active table for which you
want to grade the notch, and then in “Grading” tool mode, pick up the “Edit the grading table of the point” function.
After activating the function, the steps window appears on the screen and you can select the notch to be graded.
This window appears on the screen only if it was set in settings to be displayed.
To select a distance notch placed in a point you must hold down CTRL key when you click on the distance notch to
be graded.
To grade a distance notch, click to select the pattern; then, enter the « GRADING » mode and
click to select the notch. On notch selection, the cursor becomes similar with that in «
GARMENT TOOL » mode
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If the notch to be graded is placed in a point you can avoid point selection by holding down
CTRL key during selection.
To display the grading table of the selected notch, click on the right mouse
button or click the « Edit the grading table of the point » button from the
button bar.
Similarly to the reference point grading table, the notch grading table, can
have four grading tables the grade, drop, spec and extra grading table.
The grading of a notch is different from the grading table of a point. It
contains three columns: “dist”, “offset”, “step”.
In « dist » column you must enter the distance from the notch to mark
point for each size except the base size, for which the distance was set in
the “Garment Tool” mode ; in the « step » column, you must enter the
notch displacement from its position on the previous size. Automatically in
the “dist” column will appear the distances between notch position on the
base size and notch position on the current size. Similarly to the distance,
for the step as well the table can be filled for each size. If the notch has a
uniform grading, then the step will be the same for all sizes. Notch grading
will be done similarly for all grading types by completing the dist, offset and
step column.
Any modification for the grading steps in any of the three column will automatically recalculate the displacements
from the mark point for each size. For example, if the user changes the displacement for the “dist” column than will
be automatically recalculate the displacements from the mark point for “offset” and “step” column. Offset and step
will be zero for base size in all 4 columns. Reversely, if you change the values in « dist » column, the displacement
steps in the « step » column will be automatically recalculated.
To copy the grading rule from a notch to another you can use the key combinations CTRL+F and CTRL+G similarly
to copy grading from one point to another. When you add a new size at the beginning or ending of a size set, the
distance notches will be automatically graded by the same grading step with the last previous sizes in the size set.
Always the declared distance of the notch will be the same with its distance on the base size. When the base size is
changed will be changed the offset and the step as well. The distance declared in “Garment Tool” mode will be kept
as a separate for the notch.To cancel the grading of a distance notch, select the distance notch then click on
« Cancel the grading of the selected points » button.
If you obtain negative distance values in the grading table for a distance notch grading on some sizes, you don’t
have to worry: in « GARMENT TOOL » mode, the distance will be positive and only the placement direction will be
changed for the notch according to the chosen mark point.
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If after a permanently alignment of the sizes to two points (permanent pack), the graded sizes and the grain axis
were rotated from the base size, you can use the alignment function of the graded sizes to the grain axis. The same
function can be used if the grain axis was graded and shows different rotations from a size to another. Click to
select a pattern, then click the « Align graded sizes to grain axis » button. The sizes will be rotated and translated
so as the origin and direction of the grain axis to be the same on all sizes.
After grading the grain axis, the grain axes for different Click on « Align graded sizes to grain axis » button; the
sizes is not overlapping anymore and are rotated from size disposition will change so as the grain axis to be
the horizontal. overlapped horizontally.
1.10.22 Automatic calculation of a point grading relative to the grading of the nearby points
The program can automatically calculate a point grading, relative to the grading of the nearby points. This can
be done only for the active table. To grade a point using this function you must enter « GRADING » mode and pick
up the “Calculate the point grading relative to the grading of the nearby points” function. After activating this
function, the steps window appears on the screen and you can start to select the points to be graded. The program
will automatically recalculate the selected points grading and will display the result.
The steps window appears on the screen only if it was set to be displayed on settings, otherwise, you can follow the
messages displayed on the screen bottom.
Automatic calculation of a point grading relative to the grading of the nearby points
Set as active one of the
four point grading tables by
selecting one of the four
grade type buttons from
toolbar in « Grading »
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Instead of derived rules and transformations now for each coordinate X and Y can be set a complex formula. The
formula’s members can be: vertical grading of one point, horizontal grading of one point, direct (diagonal) grading,
grading step between 2 points on horizontal and or vertical and grading distance variation between 2 points. The
formula will be valid only if the point from which will be copied the value will have a name.
If you want to start grading a point using the “Derived grading” first you have to select the point on which you want
to add a grade rule and then select from the right side of the menu the option “derived grading”. Once the option is
selected a warning window will be displayed announcing the user that if the selected point has a grading rule, it will
be reset. Press “OK” button to continue.
After you press ok, in the right side of the menu will be displayed the options for the “Derived grading”. There are
two edit fields where the user must to type the right grading formula. In the field “Formula on X” the user will type
the grading formula which will be applied on the X direction and on the “Formula on Y” the user will type the
grading formula which will be applied on Y direction. There are different types of formula which can be applied, as it
follows:
HG(point name) – horizontal grading of the point name
VG(point name) – vertical grading of the point name
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In order to use the grading from a point to the derived grading formula, you have first to give a name to the initial
point. As in the presented example, the initial point has the name “1”. Furthermore, the user needs to type the
correspond formula of the needed grading type. The grading can be done on horizontal, on vertical or both on
horizontal and vertical. In the given example, the used formula are:
- HG(1) typed on the “Formula on X”, which means that the selected point will have on X direction the
horizontal grading( X step) of the point 1.
- VG(1) typed on the “Formula on Y”, which means that the selected point will have on Y direction the vertical
grading (Y step) of the point 1.
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In order to use the grading from a point to the derived grading formula, you have first to give a name to the initial
point. As in the presented example, the initial point has the name “2”. Furthermore, the user needs to type the
correspond formula of the needed grading type. The grading formula in the given example is DG(2)
- DG (2) typed on the “Formula on X”, which means that the selected point will have on X direction (X step) the
value from the “Dist” column from the grading table of the point 2.
- If on the field from the “Formula on Y” the user will not add any formula that means that on Y direction the grading
rule will be 0.
In order to use the grading between two pints to the derived grading formula, you have first to give a name to the
initial points. As in the presented example, the first initial point has the name “4” and the second initial point has the
name “6”. Furthermore, the user needs to type the correspond formula of the needed grading type. The grading
formula in the given example is :
- HD (4,6) typed on the “Formula on X”, which means that the selected point will have on X direction (X step) the
value obtained by measuring the difference on X of the direct distance between the points 4 and 6
- VD (4,6) typed on the “Formula on Y”, which means that the selected point will have on Y direction (Y step) the
value obtained by measuring the difference on Y of the direct distance between the points 4 and 6
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In order to use the grading between two pints to the derived grading formula, you have first to give a name to the
initial points. As in the presented example, the first initial point has the name “4” and the second initial point has the
name “6”. Furthermore, the user needs to type the correspond formula of the needed grading type. The grading
formula in the given example is :
- DD (4,6) typed on the “Formula on X”, which means that the selected point will have on X direction (X step) the
value obtained by measuring the absolute value of the direct distance between the points 4 and 6
- If on the field from the “Formula on Y” the user will not add any formula that means that on Y direction the grading
rule will be 0.
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Grading (variation) of the distance on the contour clock wise between the 2 points
In order to use the grading between two pints to the derived grading formula, you have first to give a name to the
initial points. As in the presented example, the first initial point has the name “4” and the second initial point has the
name “6”. Furthermore, the user needs to type the correspond formula of the needed grading type. The grading
formula in the given example is :
- CD (4,6) typed on the “Formula on Y”, which means that the selected point will have on Y direction (Y step) the
value obtained by measuring the perimeter between the points 4 and 6
- If on the field from the “Formula on X” the user will not add any formula that means that on X direction the grading
rule will be 0.
To copy a pattern from one model to another you must select the pattern to be copied in another model, then click
on the « Copy in clipboard » button (or press CTRL+C). For the destination model, click on “Paste from clipboard”
button (or press CTRL+V).
Select the pattern to be copied in the new model. After pattern selection, click on « Copy pattern in
clipboard » button (or press CTRL+C).
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Open the destination model and click on « Paste » button The pattern will be copied in the new model together with
(or press CTRL+V). the corresponding gradings.
To facilitate the copy process in a new model where there is no size set, the program can automatically copy the
size set from the original file from which the pattern will be copied.
If the pattern is copied in a model with no defined
size set, a warning message will be displayed:
this message announces that the size set in the
in the source file will be copied in the destination
model. To do this, you must click on the « Yes »
button. The pattern will be copied with all its
gradings. If you don’t wish to copy the size set,
the message announces that the patterns will be
copied without their grading. To do so, you must
click on the « No » button. If you click on
« Cancel » button, you will cancel the pattern
copy process.
When you copy a graded pattern from one model to another and these models have different size sets, the
sizes from those two projects will be combined in accordance with their indexes. For each grading table, current
sizes will be combined with those from the copied pattern. Any grading from the copied pattern that is not in the size
set of destination model will be inserted for all patterns from the model. The gradings that are in the model and are
not in the copied pattern will be automatically added on the copied pattern.
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Besides, if you will copy a pattern in a project with different size sets and different sizes will be displayed a warning
message. The message warns you to decide if you will copy or not the pattern.
If there are differences between the set sizes in two models, a warning message will be displayed. If you
click on « OK » button, the patterns will be copied and the current size set will be actualized. If you click on
« Cancel » button the copying process will be cancelled.
When a pattern is copyed from a model to another, if the model have the same size but different index and the user
wants to keep the grading on the comun sizes, the user must to update indexes (see chapter 1.10.2)
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« MEASURE AND CHECK TOOL » mode gives you the possibility to:
- Measure the distance between two points on a straight line or along the sewing line.
- Binding or overlapping two patterns on the selected points.
- Notch translation from a contour segment to another.
- Area and angle measurement for different patterns.
To enter this mode, click on « MEASURE AND CHECK TOOL » button. This working mode provides 6 different
functions for checking and measuring, each of them with different cursors. After you click on « MEASURE AND
CHECK TOOL » button, you will enter directly in the distance measurement function between the two points on the
pattern perimeter; the cursor is:
Cursor
In « MEASURE AND CHECK TOOL » mode, click on
« Measure perimeter » button.
The measurement result is displayed in the upper menu. The program executes the measurement on the graded
sizes too. The distance measured on the base size is displayed on black background while the distances measured
for the other sizes are displayed on white background.
If on the measured contour there is a dart, it can be considered closed (the dart interior will not be measured) or
opened (the dart interior will be measured too). If the model has many sizes measurements, the current table will
not be able to show all in the sizes in the upper side of the screen. In order to see all the sizes measurements, on
the edge of the table click left mouse button (depending of the situation in the right or left side) in order to role all
the size measurements. For a faster view of all the sizes measurement keep pressed left mouse button and the
sizes will role continually.
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To measure the distance between two points, enter the « MEASURE AND CHECK TOOL » mode and click on
« Measure distance between two points ».
The measurement on straight line can be done from any position on the pattern ( inside, on the contour or
outside), not only from point.
Click on the place where you want the start the measurement. If the chosen place is too close to the
pattern contour, the program will start the measurement from the closest point on the pattern contour.
Move the cursor and click on the final position for the distance measurement. This position can be a point
on a pattern, a internal point, a notch on the contour or on any other position inside or outside the pattern. While
moving the cursor it is allways displayd the distance from the start point, as well as the deplacement on horizontal
and vertical toward the grain axes of the pattern.
The measured distance is displayed in the upper menu for the base size and also for the graded sizes.
Pressing the CTRL key can set the precise direction of measurement. After select the initial point of measurement,
press the CTRL key and you can precise direct the measurement for 15 to 15 degree.
The distance for the base size will be displayed in real time in the upper side of the menu. The measurement can
be added on the measurements table (see chapter 1.11.7).
In « MEASURE AND CHECK TOOL » mode click on « Measure distance between two points ». On the screen will
be active all points, all notches and all technical internal point
Click on the first point to start the distance measuring. This point can be a point on the pattern contour or a point
inside the pattern. After first point selection will remain active all mentioned elements (points, notches, technical
internal points), less the first point selected. Move the cursor and make the next click on the end point of the
measure the distance. The results of the measurement are displayed in the upper side of the screen, for the base
size and for the gradede sizes , if the measurement has been made between two graded points.
By checking the option “Measure the absolute value of the direct distance” it will be displaied the distance in
straight line between those two elements. The distance can be introduced in the measurement table.
When you will check the option “Measure the difference on X of the direct distance” it will be displayed the
horizontal distance (which is always according to the parallel at the grain axis of the pattern) between the two
elements of the
same pattern. There will be calculated the distances on every graded size and it will be displayed in the upper side
of
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the screen, if the measurement has been made between two graded elements. The displayed distance can be
introduced in the measurement table.
Attention! If the pattern doesn’t have a grain axis the the horizontal distance will be displayed according with the X
axis of the coordinate system. Because of that, the measurements values, introduced on the measurements table,
will be updated in function of the rotation of the pattern. It is the same situation when the measurement is made
from a pattern to another pattern.
When you will check the option “Measure the difference on Y of the direct distance” it will be displayed the vertical
dimension (which is always according to the perpendicular at the grain axis of the pattern) between the two
elements of the pattern. It will be calculated the distances on every graded size and it will be displayed in the upper
side of the screen, if the measurement has been made between two graded points. The displayed distance can be
introduced lately in the measurement table.
Attention! If the pattern doesn’t have declared the grain axis, the vertical dimension it will be according to the Y
axis of the coordinate system. Because of that, the measurements values, introduced on the measurements table,
will be updated in function of the rotation of the pattern. It is the same situation when the measurement is made
from a
pattern to another pattern.
The measurement result is displayed in the upper menu. The program executes the measurement on the graded
sizes too. The distance measured on the base size is displayed on black background while the distances measured
for the other sizes are displayed on white background. If the model has many sizes measurements, the current
table will not be able to show all in the sizes in the upper side of the screen. In order to see all the sizes
measurements, on the edge of the table click left mouse button (depending of the situation in the right or left side)
in order to role all the size measurements. For a faster view of all the sizes measurement keep pressed left mouse
button and the sizes will role continually.
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After you have done one measurement (on the contour or in straight line) if you press SHIFT key you can make
another measurement; the measurement value will compose with the preview one and will be displayed on the
upper menu of « MEASURE AND CHECK TOOL » mode.
If you press ALT+SHIFT keys from the first measurement will be decrease the second measurement.
You must press SHIFT or ALT+SHITH keys only when you make the first click of the second measurement.
When you add a measurement made with SHIFT key or ALT+SHIFT keys in the watcher will be displayed a
compose measurement with the corresponding formula and the simple measurement made.
2.
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If you want to dysplay the segments dimentions on the patterns, you must activate the „ Show/hide distances on
the patterns” function. As long as this button is active, you will be able to see its dimentions on the patterns. To
hide segments dimentions, you must desactivate this function, by making another click on the „Show/hide
distances on the patterns” button.
Warning! The segments dimensions will be displayed only between grading points, and only for the base size.
These dimensions will remain displayed as long as the „Show/hide distances on the patterns” function is active.
Measure an angle
Click on the first point of the angle, Click on the second point that Click on the third point of the angle,
on one side represents the angle tip on the other side
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To measure a pattern surface, enter the « MEASURE AND CHECK TOOL » mode then click on « Measure pattern
surface » button. Click to select a pattern in order to calculate its surface. In the upper menu the pattern surface will
be calculated and displayed the absolute surface, the surface of the pattern with seam allowance and the unfolded
surface.
Cursor
In « MEASURE AND CHECK TOOL » mode click on
« Measure pattern surface » button.
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The most important advantage of the watcher is that the measured and displayed distances are permanently and
automatically recalculated, each time when you modify the pattern shape, pattern gradings; thus, the designer can
watch in real time any measure adjustment even during pattern modifications. Also, the measures added to this
table together with the quotes taken from the size set are printed in the product technical sheet.
In the watcher, the first rows with yellow background are displaying the first quotes in the size set. On the first
column in the left side, the table displays the current number; the next column titles represent then quote or
measurement names. The next columns display the measured value for each size. The column that displays the
base size is displayed on black background. The watcher dimension can be increased (on the right side – to see
more sizes or down to see more measurements) or can be decreased in order to keep the optimal workspace. The
table can be placed anywhere on the workspace.
To add a measurement to the table you must perform the following steps:
Display the watcher by a click on the « Show/hide measurement table »
Perform measurement for perimeter, direct distance between two points or for angles (see chapters
1.11.1, 1.11.2 and 1.11.4)
Just after measurement, while the results are still displayed in the upper menu, click with the right mouse
button on a free row in the watcher. If the added measurement is a composed measurement (made with SHIFT or
ALT+SHIFT keys) and can not be added in the selected field , it will be automatically insert in the last free row.
Near the mouse cursor appears a small menu in which you will click on « Add measurement » option. In
the table will appear the measured values for the base size and for the graded sizes on the corresponding table
columns.
If you must operate an important measurement to be kept for printing in the product technical sheet, click in
the box where the measure name must appear in order to insert the specific name.
To delete a measurement from the table, click with the right mouse button on the row where the
measurement is displayed. Near the cursor appears a small menu in which you have to click on « Delete
measurement » option.
Add a measurement to the watcher
First, measure a perimeter, a direct distance or an angle Near the mouse cursor appears a small menu in which
(see chapters 1.11.1, 1.11.2 and 1.11.5) you must click on « Add measurement » option. The
Just after the measurement, while the results are still measured values will appear in the table, for the base
displayed in the upper menu, click with the right mouse size and for the graded sizes on the corresponding
button on a free row in the watcher table columns.
If you must operate an important measurement to be kept If you want to use the measure in “Made to measure”
for printing in the product technical sheet, click in the box mode you must insert in “Short” column the short
where the measure name must appear in order to insert name of measurement.
the specific name. Type the measurement name then
press ENTER key. For the base size, the measurement
column is displayed on back background.
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Near the mouse button appears a small menu, in which you must choose « De
In Gemini Pattern Editor you can compose measurements directly when you do the measurement
(pressing the SHIFT or ALT+SHIFT keys) or in the watcher adding a compose measurement.
In the watcher you can add measurements compose in which the program will automatically calculate mathematical
operations as R1+R2+R3+R4+R4, where Rn is the row in the table on which a specific measurement is memorized.
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To add a compose measurement, click with the right Near the mouse cursor appears a small menu in which
mouse button on a free row from watcher. you must click on „Add measurement”.
1.11.9 Display increase differences from a size to another and quotes from table
To check the grade or to calculate very easy the grade quotes, you can visualize the increased differences from a
size to another in the watcher. These are calculated and automatically displayed if you select “Show delta for
measurements” option from the menu that is opening when you click with the right mouse button in the watcher.
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In the watcher, you can select which measurements will appear in the product technical sheet. Click on
the row header where the measurement is memorized. If this header is checked (marked by a star)
then the measurement will be printed on the product technical sheet.
If you want some values or quotes in the watcher to be printed in the product technical sheet, click on the row
header where the measurement is memorized. A star will mark the rows that will be printed in the product technical
sheet.
If the row was already marked and you click on it, the star disappears and that row will not appear in the product
technical sheet anymore.
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In the watcher you can load a list of measurements from the disk. For this you must first save this list.
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To paste or overlap two patterns in some specific points, enter the « MEASURE AND CHECK TOOL » mode and
click on « Assembly » button. The cursor will transform into a selection cursor.
First select two points on the pattern to be moved, by mouse click; then click to select two corresponding point on
the fix pattern, on which you will make the paste. After selecting the last point, the first pattern (mobile) is rotated
and automatically moved in order to overlap in the selected points on the fixed pattern.
By this operation you can realize pasting and overlapping of two patterns. This function will verify the shape
correspondence between the patterns that will be sewed together. After pasting, the pattern gradings can be
displayed. You can also select another base grading in « GRADING » mode (see chapter 1.10.11 ) in order to
check the pattern correspondence on other sizes.
Pasting or overlapping of two patterns
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In « MEASURE AND CHECK TOOL » mode, you can move a pattern without rotating it, up to a point selected on
the mobile pattern overlaps on a selected point on a fixed pattern.
cursor
In « MEASURE AND CHECK TOOL » mode, click on « Marry » button.
The cursor will transform into selection cursor.
Click on the matching point on the mobile pattern that will be pasted.
Click on the matching point on the fixed pattern that corresponds with
the point on the mobile pattern.
After selecting the two matching points, the program translates the
mobile pattern, without rotation, for a perfect paste on the fixed
pattern in the selected points.
1.11.14 Simulate the combination by sewing, for two patterns – WALKING PATTERNS
By clicking the « Walking patterns » button in « MEASURE AND CHECK TOOL » mode, you can visualize
dynamically the combination between two patterns. Thus, a pattern will rotate around another pattern starting from
the selected points, in the direction that you choose. First, you must select the starting point on the fixed pattern
and then the point that indicates the direction to be followed by the fixed pattern; then you must select the
corresponding points on the mobile pattern.
Sewing simulation can be done by walking on the contour with the darts closed or opened, point by point, notch to
notch with an adjustable simulation step. You can also simulate a folded sewing.
At the end of the simulation, you can choose to keep the patterns in the simulation position.
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cursor
In « MEASURE AND CHECK » mode, you must click on the button « Walking
patterns ». The cursor will transform into a selection cursor.
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You can view the simulation by sewing simulation point by point. Now, the
walking on the contour will not depend on the simulation step but on the
points on the pattern contour. Point by point walking patterns can de done
on the initial defined direction by a click on the „Go forward to the next
point” button. For a backward simulation, you must click on the „ Go
backward to the previous point”.
You can view the simulation by sewing simulation notch to notch. In this
situation, the walking on the contour will not depend on the simulation
step but on the notches on the patterns contour. The simulation notch to
notch can be done by a click on the „Go forward to the next notch”. For a
backward simulation, you must click on the „ Go backward to the previous
notch”.
To end the walking pattern operation you must click on the „Close” button in the lower right corner of the „Walking
patterns window”.
When two patterns will be sewed together, usually you apply matching notches on both patterns at the same
distances from the mark points. To facilitate these operations, Gemini Pattern Editor gives you the possibility to
create the matching notches on a single pattern and then to copy them on the corresponding pattern. This operation
is time saving and insures a perfect correspondence for the
matching distances of the notches.
To transfer notches from a contour segment to another, enter cursor
the « MEASURE AND CHECK TOOL » mode and click on
« Transfer notches » button. The cursor changes into
selection cursor.
On the first pattern, select the region from which you will copy the notches:
On the first pattern, click on the mark point where the contour region chosen for notches transfer starts.
Click on the point that ends the region chosen for notches transfer.
Click on the contour of the pattern where the notches will be copied, between the two selected points. The
notches on the selected contour are extracted by the program by calculating the distance from the selection start
point.
The, you get the second pattern, the destination for the notch transfer:
Click on the starting point for notches translation,
Click on the ending point for the region destined to notches translation,
Click on the pattern contour where the notches must be copied.
The program will automatically copy the notches from the region selected on the first pattern and apply them on the
selected contour on the second pattern. The notches on the second pattern will be placed at the same distances
from the first selection point.
Click on the mark point where the Click on the contour of the pattern
Click on the point that ends the
contour region chosen for notches where the notches will be copied,
region chosen for notches transfer.
transfer starts. between the two selected points.
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Parametrical design represents a radically different method from the direct design that actually
represents only simple drawing. Parametrical design identically follows the design steps that can be
found in any direct design manual; by this method, the pattern is developed point by point, using
geometrical functions, formulas and parameters.
During the direct design, the operator proceeds to some predefined steps (drawing, adjustments
etc) while the computer memorizes only the final result, that is the drawing on the screen. During the
direct design procedure, none of the pattern developing steps is saved into computer memory.
During parametrical design, the designer operates some design steps that are memorized one by
one by the computer. These design steps are related to some basic geometrical functions; each new
point, line or circle is created by procedures based on point and geometrical elements created during
the previous steps.
When the project is saved, the computer memorizes not only the final pattern but also all the steps
required to realize the pattern.
By parametrical design method, there are defined the coordinates of the main geometrical points in
the pattern. Then, the designer will draw a pattern by the direct method; this pattern will be anchored on
the geometrically defined points.
REVIEW:
- Parametrical design supposes some successive steps through which the essential points of the
pattern are created by geometrical procedures using formulas and parameters
- After defining these parametrical points you must draw an overlay pattern whose points will be
anchored on the parametrical points that were previously defined
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There are two main advantages resulting from the parametrical design of a pattern, both of them
related to the product grading:
- the patterns anchored on a parametrical layer can be automatically and fully graded in
- a blink of an eye, by using the standard dimensions values for each size in the size table
for made to measure production, the patterns anchored on a parametrical layer can be automatically
modified to fit the individual dimensions of each client.
These two main advantages are compensating the effort and the supplementary time required by
the anchor parametrical layer design; thus, the manual grading procedure is completely eliminated.
Why the Grading Table for a point anchored to a parametrical point is no longer
available for edit?
First of all, we must understand how the computer builds the pattern for the base size: it reads the
quotes from the dimensions table that corresponds to the base size; based on these values it builds the
parametrical points (see the example for designing a skirt)
Then, in order to obtain the pattern for another size, the computer IS NOT grading a base size but it
redesigns the whole pattern from the beginning for the specific size, by reading the sizes quotes form
the dimensions table. Designing of a new measure is not different from designing the base size; all
measures are designed from scratch, based on the quotes in the dimensions table for the each size.
IMPORTANT: As seen in the previous paragraph, the quotes inserted in the measurement table are
used directly for the pattern design; so, it is very important that the dimensions table will contain all
required quotes; the quote values must accurate and must respect the measurement units.
We describe here the steps to be followed in order to develop a set of patterns by parametrical design:
- prepare the size set with the quotes required for design
- develop the parametrical layer
- design patterns and anchor them on the parametrical layer
Prepare the size set with the quotes required for design
In order to build a pattern by parametrical design, the first step is to prepare and input the size set.
It is important that, together with size set definition, to declare the required quotes, that will be later
used for automatic grading of the project. To edit a size set, please refer to the chapter 1.10.2
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Generalities
IMPORTANT: in the parametrical mode you can only create and modify the anchorage parametrical layer. Over this
layer you must draw the patterns that will be anchored on the parametrical layer points by using the other design
methods in the program.
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A. The workspace
The workspace is the area where the parametrical figures resulted from the design functions is displayed.
In the workspace you can visualize either the parametrical layer or the patterns layer or both layers superposed
at the same time. Mixing the parametrical and pattern layers can be done by an interactive cursor « mix view »
located in the first button bar of Gemini Pattern Editor application. By mouse dragging on this cursor, you can
switch the two layers.
or or or
If you place the cursor in the If you move the cursor toward If you place the cursor in the
«- » position, only the pattern one of its ends (- or +) one layer will «+ » position, only the
layer will be displayed. become more visible than the other. parametrical layer will be displayed.
You can also place the mouse You can also place the mouse You can also place the mouse
pointer over the cursor and right pointer over the cursor and right pointer over the cursor and right click
click to open a menu from which click to open a menu from which to open a menu from which you will
you will select the option you will select the option select the option 0%patterns-
100%patterns-0%geometric in 100%patterns- 100%geometric in 100%geometric in order to display only
order to display only the pattern order to display both layers the parametrical layer.
layer.
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B. Script area
This window contains the description of the selected function, a field to edit the values, the quote abbreviations,
the geometrical formulas (from simple to complex) and an area where the errors are displayed.
In this area there are displayed all the quotes introduced by the user in the “Edit size set” window in
“GRADING” mode and the measurements in the “Measurement table”.
The quotes added in the “Edit size set” window will appear here in green and the measurements in violet.
To use a measurement for the parametrical design, you must fill in the « Short » column in the “Measurement
table”. This column must contain an abbreviation of the measurement name. If this abbreviation is not entered, then
it will not be displayed in the quote list, so it cannot be used for the parametrical design.
The quotes and the measurements could be used easily to edit various functions of the parametrical design by
a simple selection or by completing the editing field in the description area, with the abbreviation of the selected
quote.
When you drag the mouse over a quote in a list, its value for the selected size will be displayed with the current
measurement unit.
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This area contains the buttons for all parametrical design functions.
When you drag the mouse pointer over a button, the associated function name will
be displayed. Moreover, on each button there is an icon that illustrates the specific
function for each button
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If you click on the « Draw all rules » button, in the workspace there will be displayed the design rules
used to obtain the geometrical elements (point, line, circle, Bezier curve).
If you click on the « Do not draw any rule » button, in the workspace there will be displayed only the
resulted geometrical elements (point, line, circle, Bezier curve); the design rules are not displayed.
To show/hide the design rule for a single step in the script, you must click on the corresponding box
in the « Draw » column of the script area. If the corresponding box is marked by an « X » then the
design rule for the selected step will be displayed; if that box is not marked by an « X », for the selected
step it will be displayed only the resulted geometrical element.
To copy one or more steps in a script, you must first select the step in the « Script area » and the
click on the « Copy » button.
To select more steps in a script you must hold down the SHIFT key and click on the first and the last
step (for a continuous list selection) or you must hold down the CTRL key and click on each step to be
selected. To select all steps in a script, you must press CTRL+A key combination
To paste the copied step(s) in the script you must click to select the step over which you want to
add the clipboard content and then click on « Paste » button.
To delete the selected step and to copy it in the clipboard, you must click on « Cut » button.
A project script can be saved on the computer hard disk or on a storage media (CD, zip, external
drive, SDcard) if you click on « Save script » button.
To load a script saved on the computer hard disk or on a storage media (CD, zip, external drive,
SDcard), you must click on the « Load script » button
Green - indicates the script steps that determine the drawing of a geometrical element
Red - the steps marked in red has some parameters that are not defined yet
Black - marks a new inserted step for which there is no declared design function
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1. Free point
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37. Circle with contour point and radius, tangent to a another circle
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To design a geometrical element, you must choose the design function and then you must edit its parameters. The
editing of the function parameters will be done in the « Description of the selected geometrical operation » area in
the spaces marked by red lines.
When you drag the mouse pointer over such region, the cursor will become a hand . When you click on the
space underlined in red, that space will become underlined in blue; in the lower part of the « Description of the
selected geometrical operation » window will appear a field in which you may fill the value, the points, the quote or
the formula required to calculate the selected parameter.
To switch from a parameter to another you may press the Enter key or to select the function to be completed by a
mouse click.
Points
If one of the parameters in the function is a point (e.g.: point at X,Y from another point) and you want to edit such a
parameter, you must click to select the chosen point in the « script area»; alternatively, you must complete the full
name in the lower field in the « Description of the selected geometrical operation » window, and then you must
press the ENTER key to edit the next parameter.
To switch from parameter edit to another you can simply select another space to be completed instead pressing the
Enter key.
If the used function has a point as parameter and it is completed by selecting the point in the script area, you will
not need to press the Enter key, while the next space to be completed in that function will be selected automatically.
Values
If you want to edit a value for a specific parameter of the selected function, you must click on that parameter and to
complete the field in the lower part of the « Description of the selected geometrical operation » window with the
desired value.
Quotes
To use a quote or a measurement in the measurement table as parameter for a function, you can choose from two
options:
1. you may click on the space marked by a red line where you want to input the quote and you will edit by the
keyboard, in the lower field of the « Description of the selected geometrical operation » window the abbreviation for
that quote; then you must press the Enter key.
2. you may click on the space marked by a red line where you want to input the quote and then you must select
from the « quote list area » the desired quote; then you must press the Enter key.
! Attention The quotes used to edit a parameter must be of the same type with the parameters required for the
geometrical operation. For example, if you are using an angle quote for a length type parameter, you will be warned
by a message that appears under the field that edits the parameters of the selected function.
Formulas
The parameters in a function can be edited as complex formulas that may contain values, quotes or distances
between points. To edit a formula, you must use the brackets.
If you drag the mouse pointer over a formula, its result will be automatically displayed.
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1. Free point
With the « Free point » function, you can place a point anywhere in the
script area; this point does not depend on any other geometrical element. After you
select the function, you must click in the script area, where you want to place the free
point.
To start designing a garment, you must always start with a free point.
To change the position of a free point, you must select the specific step in the script, press on the SHIFT key and
click the left mouse button at the further point position.
For this function, there is no parameter to be completed in the « Description of the selected geometrical operation »
window.
Assign parameters
If the reference point is already defined, you may hold down the SHIFT key and click the left mouse button at the
current position; the X and Y values are assigned from the screen and applied automatically in the operation text.
By this function you can draw a point Pn from the point PA at a distance on
horizontal X and diagonal either upper or lower. In the near example, on the horizontal from
P1 point, at a distance X, it was raised the perpendicular line. On this perpendicular, it was
drawn the P2 point so as the distance between P1 n P2 will have the value D.
Function parameters
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By this function you can draw a new point Pn from an existing point PA la at a
distance on vertical Y and on diagonal D.
In the near example, on the perpendicular from the P1 point you choose a point
at Y distance and trace the horizontal to the left or to the right. On this horizontal
you must choose a P2 point so as the P1-P2 distance to be equal with D.
The new point will be draw according to the specification „left” or „right” from the
reference point.
Function parameters
If the reference point is already defined, you may hold down the SHIFT key and click the left mouse button at the
current position; the Y and D values and the placement are assigned from the screen and applied automatically in
the operation text.
Function parameters
In the near example, from the P1 it was draw a line under U° angle from the
horizontal; on this line it was created a new point (P2) at a distance D from
the P1 point.
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Function parameters
To draw a new point by this function, you must
assign the following parameters:
- reference point
- the angle from horizontal, measured in
degrees, U
- the distance between the reference point and
the new point (D)
If the reference point is already defined, you may hold down the SHIFT key and click the left mouse button at the
current position; the U and D values and the placement are assigned from the screen and applied automatically in
the operation text.
Function parameters
If the reference point is already defined, you may hold down the SHIFT key and click the left mouse button at the
current position; the U and D values and the placement are assigned from the screen and applied automatically in
the operation text.
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Function parameters
Function parameters
Function parameters
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You can draw a new point, PN, at a distance D from the point PA on the
perpendicular from this point to the line defined by the points PB and PC.
Thus, you have defined the point P4 at a distance D form the point P3 on the
perpendicular from the point P4 to the line determined by P1 and P2.
Function parameters
Function parameters
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Function parameters
You can draw a new point PN at a distance DA from the point PA and at a
distance DB from the point PB
A new point P3 is defined, by triangulation from the points P1 and P2 at the
distances DA and DB respectively. The new point is defined on the left side as
looking from P1 toward P2.
Function parameters
To draw a new point by this function, you must
assign the following parameters:
- the point PA
- the point PB
- the distance DA between the new point and
the point PA
- the distance DB between the new point and
the point PB
To draw the new point you must define the left
or right direction.
Attention: To avoid confusions, try first both
variants then choose the correct direction.
If the reference points are already defined, you may hold down the SHIFT key and click the left mouse button at the
current position; the DA and DB values and the placement are assigned from the screen and applied automatically in
the operation text.
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Function parameters
Function parameters
You can draw a point at the intersection between the lines PA-PB and PC-PD
In the near example, the point P5 was placed at the intersection between P1-
P2 and P3-P4.
Function parameters
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You can draw a point (P3, in the near example) on the perpendicular on a line that is
placed at a defined angle from that perpendicular.
Function parameters
You can draw a new point PN that represents the end edge of a dart that starts
in the point PA, the peak in the point PB and the angle U to the left or right.
In the near example, in the point P1 you must draw a line at the angle U from
the line P1-P2 on the left/right side (on choice). You draw a point PN on this
line, so as the distance P3-P2 to be equal with the distance P1-P2.
Function parameters
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You can draw the points PNA and PNB as contact points of the common
tangent to the circles CA and CB, either on the left or right side. A segment
PNA-PNB is drawn.
You have drawn the points P3 and P4 as contact points of the common
tangent on circles C1 and C2, either on the left or the right side
A segment P3-P4 was drawn.
Function parameters
You can draw a point PN as a contact point of the tangent line from the
external point PA on a circle CA either on the left or right side.
The point P3 is drawn on the tangent line in the point P2 on the circle C1 on
the left side.
Function parameters
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You can draw a new point PN at a distance D from the point PA located on the
circle CA and measures clockwise or counterclockwise.
In the near example, it was drawn the point P3 on the circle C1 at a distance D from the point P2, clockwise.
The distance must be always a positive number.
Function parameters
You can build two new points PNA and PNB that define a parallel line at a
distance D from the line defined by the points PA and PB.
The points P3 and P4 define the parallel line to P1-P2, placed at a distance
D to the left or to the right side from the last selected reference point.
Function parameters
You can draw a new point PN at a distance D on the tangent in the point PA at
the circle CA, clockwise or counterclockwise.
The point P3 was placed at a distance D on the tangent in the point P2 at the
circle C1.
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Function parameters
Function parameters
Function parameters
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Function parameters
You can draw a new circle CN with the center in the point PA and R radius.
The circle C1 was defined by the center P1 and the radius R.
Function parameters
If the circle center is defined, you can hold the SHIFT key and the radius R value is assigned from the screen and
applied automatically in the operation text.
You draw a new circle CN with the center in the point PA and that crosses
through the point PB on the contour.
The circle C1 was defined so as the point P1 represents its center and the
point P2 is on the contour.
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Function parameters
Function parameters
You draw a new circle CN that crosses through PA, PB and PC.
The circle C1 crosses through the points P1, P2 and P3.
Function parameters
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You draw a new circle CN with the center in the point PA and the circumference CIRC.
In the near example the circle C1 was defined with the center in the point P1 and with
circumference CIRC.
Function parameters
You draw a new circle CN that crosses the points PA and PB and has
the radius R.
The circle C1 was defined so as it crosses the points P1 and P2 and has the radius R.
Function parameters
- the point PA
- the point PB
- the radius R
- the left/right option
If the two points on the contour are defined, you can hold the SHIFT key and the radius R value is assigned from the
current mouse position and applied automatically in the operation text.
You draw a new circle CN with the center in the point PA and that is tangent to the
line defined by the points PB and PC.
In the near example, it was defined the circle C1 with the center in the point P1 and
tangent to the line defined by the points P2 and P3.
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Function parameters
You draw a new circle CN with the center in the point PA and that is tangent to
the circle CA.
In the near example it was defined the circle C2 with the center in the point P2 so it will be
tangent to the circle C1.
Function parameters
You draw a new circle CN that crosses through the point PA, is tangent on the line
defined by the points PB and PC and has the radius R.
In the near example, the circle C1 was defined so as the point P1 is placed on its
contour, it has the radius R, and the points P2 and P3 define a tangent to the circle C1.
Function parameters
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Function parameters
- the point PA
- the circle CA
- the radius R
- the left/right option that will place the circle
center aside from the point PA on the contour
Attention: To avoid confusions, try first both
variants then choose the correct direction
By the parametrical design there are defined the positions of the important geometrical points in a pattern. Then,
the designer must draw by the direct method a pattern and anchor it on the points that are parametrically defined.
Concluding, after defining the main geometrical points, a pattern must be designed on the overlay; the pattern
points will be anchored on the geometrical points that have been already defined.
To do this, you must check first that you are displaying either the parametrical layer or the pattern layer. To display
both layers, the interactive cursor « mix view » in the button bar in the « Parametrical design » mode MUST NOT be
placed on « -» or on « +» . To get from a layer to another, you must click the left mouse button on the cursor and
drag toward one of the edges.
To draw a pattern anchored to the parametrical layer you have two options:
1. You can freely draw a pattern whose points will be anchored later on the geometrical layer in the « SHAPE TOOL »
mode
2. You can directly anchor the points on the pattern to the points on the geometrical layer, during the design
process.
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b) - in the « SHAPE TOOL » mode you must select the pattern point by point. For each point of the drawing you
must define the geometrical dependence point and you must define the position of the designed
point from the dependent geometrical point.
To do this, you must first select the point and in the right side menu, at the « Point
definition » you must select the option « geom point » and in the field under you must
enter the name of the geometrical point on which the designed point will be anchored.
OR
- use "Direct anchoring (connecting) of the graded points to the geometrical
layer" function from "Shape Tool" (see chapter 1.6.32.)
To superpose the designed point on the geometrical point, the values for the point
position must be zero.
Attention: After defining the geometrical point on which depends the designed point,
you must check and modify the position of the designed point.
For a faster position definition, you must get the drawing closer to the geometrical
sketch; then, in the « SHAPE TOOL » mode you must select the pattern point by point,
and by using the ALT and SHIFT keys you can easily drag the pattern points over the
geometrical layer points.
c) To finalize the pattern shape, you must follow the same steps as for the direct design
(transform lines to curves, define angles etc)
You can draw and anchor simultaneously the points designed on the
geometrical points, by magnetization.
In the « DRAW TOOL » mode you must click on « Draw free or
assisted (with points and lines)» button and hold the ALT +SHIFT
combination; then you must click on the geometrical points where you want
to anchor the designed points.
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When you hold the ALT +SHIFT key combination, the points will be magnetized; this means that the designed
points will be precisely overlapping on the chosen geometrical points.
To finalize the pattern shape you must follow the same steps as for the direct design (transform lines to curves,
define angles etc)
For the preexisting models that were created by direct design or by digitization, you can create a simplified
parametrical anchoring system, used only for automatic grading. Thus, you can use the benefits of the automatic
grading either on products that were not created by parametrical design.
To do this, you must create a simple geometrical structure, usually rectangular, on which you must create, for
example, only points of type: center upper face, center down face, waist point, hip point, point shoulder to neck,
point shoulder to recess, etc. These points are created in a blink of an eye (usually by geometrical functions type
XY, see chapter 5.3 design function 2). Basically, the newly created geometrical points (based on the quotes in the
size set) should overlap the corresponding points on the base pattern, if the quote table is respected. The
corresponding points on the base pattern can be associated to these geometrical points. Their grading is borrowed
with the geometrical points movement.
IMPORTANT: if the position of the geometrical points that are created based on the quotes does not
correspond to the point position on the pattern, it means that there is an error either on the original pattern (that
does not respect the quotes in the table) or while you design the geometrical point; another reason can be the
ignorance of the seam allowance or of other technological adds.
The near examples show how the grading of trouser or skirt was transposed on the parametrical layer.
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1. You must create the free point P1 by a click on the « Free point » button this point will be defined as the front mid
point from the waist.
2. You must define the point P2 by a click on the « point at XY from another point »
button and represents the lateral point from the waist. This point is created at a distance
x
= Pt/4 and y = 3 (cm) from the point P1.
Pt=waist length
3. You must define the point P3 by a click on the « point at XY from another point »
button and represents the slit point. This point is created at a distance x = -0,37 and y =
- 6,22 (cm) from the point P1.
4. You must define the point P4 by a click on the « point at XY from another point »
button and represents the hip point. This point is created at a distance x = Ps/4-1 and y
= 0 (cm) from the point P3.
(Ps=hip length)
5. You must define the point P5 by a click on the « point at XY from another point »
button and represents the edge point. This point is created at a distance x = -0,2 and y
=
-Lxp (cm) from the point P2
Lxp=the pant out seam
6. You must define the point P6 by a click on the « point at XY from another point »
button and represents the inseam thigh point. This point is created at a distance x = -Lpt
and y = 0 (cm) from the point P5.
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Lpt= pant width on bottom, Lip = pant inseam
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7. You must define the point P7 by a click on the « point at XY from another point » button and represents the hip
point. This point is created at a distance x = Ps/4-1 and y = 0 (cm) from the point P5
Lpt= the pant width at bottom
After you have created the points, you must display both parametrical and pattern layer, by using the « mix view »
interactive cursor; thus, both layers will be displayed.
In the previous example, the pant was designed for the size 42. If the patterns in the model were designed for
another size, you must enter the GRADING mode and, in the right side menu, to check the corresponding measure
for the designed model. If the measure checked as base size in the GRADING mode does not correspond to the
base size for the designed model, the correct layer overlapping will fail.
In PATTERN mode, you must select the front pattern, and then you must click to select the front mid-point; then you
must drag the selected point to overlap the point P1 of the parametrical design ; during dragging, you must hold the
SHIFT+ALT key combination in order to magnetize these points.
If you hold the SHIFT+ALT key combination, you can magnetize the selected points to be overlapped (a guided
overlapping) on the chosen geometrical points.
If the pattern points are overlapping on all geometrical points of the parametrical design then in the SHAPE TOOL
mode, you must select all the points of the designed pattern and by holding the SHIFT+ALT combination, you will
magnetize the pattern points over the corresponding points in the parametrical layer.
If the pattern points are not overlapping on the points of the parametrical design, and you need an automatic
grading process and to preserve the shape of the designed pattern, you must proceed as follows: in the SHAPE
TOOL mode you must select each point on the pattern, while in the right side menu, on the « Point definition » field
you must check the « geom. point » message; in the field under this message you must enter the name of the
geometrical point on which you will anchor the pattern point.
After the main points in a pattern were anchored on the parametrical layer, the pattern will be automatically graded
and the grading will be displayed if you click on the « Show/hide grading ».
1. You must create the free point P8 by a click on the button « Free point »; this point will be defined as, back mid
point from the waist.
2. You must create the point P9 by a click on the « point at XY from another point »
button and represents the lateral edge point. This point is created at a distance x =
3,42 and y = -Lxp (cm) from the point P8.
Lxp=pant out seam
3. You must create the point P10 by a click on the « point at XY from another point »
button and represents the hip point. This point is created at a distance x = -0,3 and y =
- [P2, P4] (cm) from the point P8.
[P2,P4]=segment length defined by the points P2 and P4
4. You must create the point P11 by a click on the « point at XY from another point »
button and represents the back mid point from waist. This point is created at a distance
x = 4,11 and y = Pt/4 (cm) from the point P8.
Pt=waist length
5. You must create the point P12 by a click on the « point at XY from another point »
button and represents the point on the hip line – mid-back. This point is created at a
distance x = Ps/4+0,5 and y = 0,5 (cm) from the point P10.
Ps=hip length
6. You must create the point P13 by a click on the « point at XY from another point »
button and represents the internal end point. This point is created at a distance x =
Lpt+2,5 and y = 0 (cm) from the point P9
Lpt= pant bottom width
7. You must create the point P14 by a click on the « point at XY from another point »
button and represents the interior hip point. This point is created at a distance x = 2,87
and y = Lip(cm) from the point P9.
Lip = pant inseam
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After you have created the points, you must display both parametrical and pattern layer, by using the « mix view »
interactive cursor; thus, both layers will be displayed (parametrical and patterns). In « Pattern » mode you must
select the back pattern and click on the back mid-point ; then you must drag to overlap the point P8 of the
parametrical design by holding the SHIFT+ALT key combination in order to magnetize these points.
You must anchor next the other points of the pattern at the parametrical layer. After anchoring on the parametrical
design, the pattern is automatically graded ; the grading can be displayed or hidden by click on the « Show/Hide
grading » button.
2. You must create the point P16 by a click on the « point at XY from another point » button and represents the
mid- upper point for the front waistband. This point is created at a distance x = 0 and y = 5(cm) from the point P1.
3. You must create the point P17 by a click on the « point at XY from another point » button and represents the
lateral upper point for the front waistband. This point is created at a distance x = Pt/4-2,2 and y = 4,9(cm) from the
point P16.
Pt=waist length
Back waistband
4. You must create the point P18 by a click on the « point at XY from another point » button and represents the mid-
upper point for the back waistband. This point is created at a distance P11 at x = 0 and y = 5 (cm) distance from
the point P11.
5. You must create the point P19 by a click on the « point at XY from another point » button and represents the side
blend point with the back. This point is created at a distance x = -Pt/4+0,4 and y = 2,2(cm) from the point P11.
Pt=waist length
6. You must create the point P20 by a click on the « point at XY from another point » button and represents the side
upper point for the back waistband. This point is created at a distance x = -Pt/4+2,45 and y = 5+1,8cm) from the
point P11.
Pt= waist length
You must anchor the points on the front and back waistband patterns (left/right) on the corresponding points of the
parametrical design (similar to the front and back patterns anchoring). After anchoring on the parametrical design,
the patterns are automatically graded; the grading can be displayed or hidden by click on the « Show/Hide grading
» button.
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To automatically grade a pant that was designed directly in Gemini Pattern Editor, you must enter the
PARAMETRICAL mode and create a rectangular structure from the mid point front, mid-point back, lateral points,
thigh point, hip point and points for skirt bottom.
Before starting the parametrical design, you must declare the size
set and the quotes required for this project (see chapter 1.12.2) or
you can load an already saved size set.
In the near example, you can see how to adapt a skirt obtained by
direct design for automatic grading; we have considered a size set
from 42 to 48 with the following dimensions: body length, waist
length, hip length, skirt side seam and bottom
After entering the size set, you must mix the parametrical and
the pattern layers, by the interactive « mix view » cursor; thus
you must have the parametrical layer in front and you click the
« GEOMETRIC » button.
2. You must create the point P2 by a click on the « point at XY from another point
» button and represents the point on the product hemline from the center front.
This point is created at a distance x = 0 and y = -Lpr+1 (cm) from the point P1.
Lpr=product length
3. You must create the point P3 by a click on the « point at XY from another point
» button and represents the point on the product hemline from lateral. This point
is created at a distance x = -Ps/4-3.7 and y = 1 (cm) from the point P2.
Ps=hip length
4. You must create the point P4 by a click on the « point at XY from another point
» button and represents the center point from hip line. This point is created at a
distance x = 0 and y = -Ls+1 (cm) from the point P1.
Ls=hip length
5. You must create the point P5 by a click on the « point at XY from another point
» button and represents the hip point. This point is created at a distance x = -
Ps/4+ 0.5 and y = 0 (cm) from the point P4.
Ps=hip length
6. You must create the point P6 by a click on the « point at XY from another
point» button and represents the lateral hip point. This point is created at a distance x = -Ps/4-0,5-1,38 and y =
1,33 (cm) from the point P1.
Ps=hip length
7. You must create the point P7 by a click on the « point at XY from another point » button and represents the first
point of the front dart. This point is created at a distance x = -Pt/8 and y = 0 (cm) from the point P1.
Pt=waist length
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8. You must create the point P8 by a click on the « point at XY from another point » button and represents the
second point on the back dart. This point is created at a distance x = -1,38 and y = 0 (cm) from the point P7.
9. You must create the point P9 by a click on the « point at XY from another point » button and represents the peak
of the front dart. This point is created at a distance x = -Pt/8 - 0,5 and y = -10 (cm) from the point P1.
Pt=waist length
After you have created the points, you must display both parametrical and pattern layer, by using the « mix
view » interactive cursor; thus, both layers will be displayed (parametrical and patterns).
In the previous example, the skirt was designed for the size 44 and after entering the size set it remained
selected the base size 42. You must enter the GRADING mode and select the base size 44.
In PATTERN mode, you must select the front pattern, and then you must click to select the front mid-point;
then you must drag the selected point to overlap the point P1 of the parametrical design ; during dragging, you must
hold the SHIFT+ALT key combination in order to magnetize these points.
If you hold the SHIFT+ALT key combination, you can magnetize the selected points to be overlapped (a
guided overlapping) on the chosen geometrical points.
If the pattern points are overlapping on all geometrical points of the parametrical design then in the
SHAPE TOOL mode, you must select all the points of the designed pattern and by holding the SHIFT+ALT
combination, you will magnetize the pattern points over the corresponding points in the parametrical layer.
If the pattern points are not overlapping on the points of the parametrical design, and you need an automatic
grading process and to preserve the shape of the designed pattern, you must proceed as follows: in the SHAPE
TOOL mode you must select each point on the pattern, while in the right side menu, on the « Point definition » field
you must check the « geom. point » message; in the field under this message you must enter the name of the
geometrical point on which you will anchor the pattern point.
After the main points in a pattern were anchored on the parametrical layer, the pattern will be automatically
graded and the grading will be displayed if you click on the « Show/hide grading ».
1. You must create the free point P10 by a click on the « Free point » button; this point will be defined as the back
mid point from the waist.
2. You must create the point P11 by a click on the « point at XY from another point
» button and represents the point on the hemline from center back. This point is
created at a distance x = 0 and y = -Lpr (cm) from the point P10.
Lpr=product length.
3. You must create the point P12 by a click on the « point at XY from another point
» button and represents the point on the hemline from lateral. This point is created
at a distance x = -Ps/4-3.5 and y = 1 (cm) from the point P11.
Ps=hip length
4. You must create the point P13 by a click on the « point at XY from another point
» button and represents the waist point from lateral. This point is created at a
distance x = -Pt/4-1,5 and y =-0,5(cm) from the point P10.
Pt=waist length
5. You must create the point P14 by a click on the « point at XY from another point
» button and represents the center back point on the hip line. This point is created
at a distance x = 0 and y = -Ls (cm) from the point P10.
Ls=hip length
6. You must create the point P15 by a click on the « point at XY from another point » button and represents the hip
point. This point is created at a distance x =-Ps/4-0,5 and y = 0(cm) from the point P14.
Ps=hip length
7. You must create the point P16 by a click on the « point at XY from another point » button and represents the first
point at the back dart. This point is created at a distance x = -Pt/8 + 1 and y = 0 (cm) from the point P10.
Pt=waist length
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8. You must create the point P17 by a click on the « point at XY from another point » button and represents the
second point of the back dart. This point is created at a distance x = -1,5 and y = 0 (cm) from the point P16.
9. You must create the point P18 by a click on the « point at XY from another point » button and represents the
peak of the back dart. This point is created at a distance x = -Pt/8 + 0,3 and y = -9 (cm) from the point P10.
Pt=waist length
After you have created the points, you must display both parametrical and pattern layer, by using the « mix
view » interactive cursor; thus, both layers will be displayed. In the « Pattern » mode you must select the back
pattern and click on the back mid-point ; then you must drag to overlap the point P10 of the parametrical design by
holding the SHIFT+ALT key combination in order to magnetize these points.
You must anchor next the other points of the pattern at the parametrical layer. After anchoring on the
parametrical design, the pattern is automatically graded ; the grading can be displayed or hidden by click on the
« Show/Hide grading » button.
1.12.8 Getting a size set for a model that was created by parametrical design
If you want to create models for a new size set and you already have a size set for those models, you don’t have to
define a new parametrical layer. You just have to load the new size set and the model will be automatically
redimensioned and graded, so as it will correspond to the new quotes.
For a correct transfer, the new size set MUST contain the quotes used in the first step and must have the same
abbreviations (short names).
To load a new size set, you must enter the GRADING mode and click on the « Edit size set » button in the button
bar. In the opened window, you must click on the « Load a size set from file » button and then you must select the
new size set and click on the « OK » button.
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1.12.9 „Made to measure” size – How to create an atypical size or the work on demand
For any model created by parametrical design you can automatically create a new size that will correspond to
atypical quotes that cannot be found in the loaded size set. This represents a major advantage mainly for the work
on demand.
Thus, the Gemini user will have only to input the client dimensions and its size will appear automatically near the
previous existing sizes.
To input the new size you have two methods:
- you may add a size in the „Edit size set” and its settings as „Made to measure‘ size“
- you may declare a preexisting size in the size set as „Made to measure‘ size“. Then, you must enter the
PARAMETRICAL mode and click on the „Quickly modify the dimensions from the size set for the client size” button
in order to open a table where you must input the dimensions for the new size.
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- P13,14- points created by a click on the « point at XY from another point » button. These points are
created at a distance x = -1,25 (for the point P13) and x = 1,25 (for the point P14) and y = -13.25 (for both points),
from the point P9. These two points defines the peak position of the first dart on the front pattern.
- P15, P16 - points created by a click on the « point at XY from another point » button. . These points are
created at a distance y = 0 and x = -1.25 for the point P16 and y = 0 and x = 1.25 for the P 16, from the point P15.
These two points defines the peak position of the second dart on the front pattern.
- P17- point created by a click on the « point at XY from another point » button. This point is created at a
distance x = C.s.+1 and y = 0 from the point P1. The point P17 represents the center of the back pattern.
- P18 - point created by a click on the « point at XY from another point » button. This point is created at a
distance x = -11 and y = 0 from the point P17. The point is located on the waistline and represents the peak of the
first dart on the back pattern.
- P19 - designed by a click on the « point in the middle of a segment ». The segment is defined by the points
P18 and P8. This point represents the peak of the second dart on the back pattern.
- P20 - point created by a click on the « point at XY from another point » button. This point is created at a
distance x = 0 and y = -8.8 from the point P19. This point helps you to define the second dart on the back pattern
and gives its length.
- P21,22 - points created by a click on the « point at XY from another point » button. These points are
created at a distance x = -1 and y = 0 for the point P21 and x = 1 and y = 0 for the point P22, from the point P18.
These points help you to create the first dart on the back pattern and define the peak position.
- P23,P24 - points created by a click on the « point at XY from another point » button. These points are
created at a distance x = 1 and y = 0 and x = -1 and y = 0 for the point P24. These points help you to create the
second dart on the back pattern and define the peak position.
- P25 - point created by a click on the « point at XY from another point » button. This point is defined from
the point P18 at the x = 0 and y = -8,8 coordinates. This point represents the length of the first dart for the back
pattern.
- P26 - point created by a click on the « point at XY from another point » button. This point is defined at a
distance x = 0 and y = -L.pr from the point P25. P26 help to design the ends on the front and back patterns.
- P27- point created by a click on the « Point by triangulation » button. This point is defined at a distance
„L.pr” from the point P7 and at a distance of 2 cm from the point P26 on the left side of the two points. This point is
found on the seam line on the front pattern and defines the product length and width at end.
- P28 - point created by a click on the « Point by triangulation » button. This point is defined at a distance
„L.pr” from the point P8 and at a distance of 2 cm from the point P26 on the right side of the two points. This point is
found on the seam line on the front pattern and defines the product length and width at end.
- P29- point created by a click on the « point at XY from another point » button. This point is defined at a
distance x = 0 and y = -L.pr. P29 helps to define the end on the back pattern.
In this step you must display the parametrical layer. To do this, you must get the interactive cursor « mix view » in the
appropriate position (see chapter 3.1 A).
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To finalize the pattern shape you must follow the same steps as for the classic design (transform some lines
in curves, define the angles, setting the seam allowance, define the grain axis, check the patterns, etc).
The patterns obtained by design and anchor to the parametrical layer are automatically graded according to the
quotes used in the size set table.
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Beside design functions that are grouped in specific working modes, Gemini Pattern Editor offers general functions
assigned to the whole model or working mode:
Editing dependency points
Editing the product technical sheets
Printing the product and patterns technical sheets
Printing the patterns on plotter
Import / export the models in standard forms
Program work settings
Verification function for the patterns before cutting
Help files
The buttons for these functions are located on the button bar in the upper menu; these buttons are visible and
active in any working mode of the program.
For an efficient marker when the model is designed on striped fabric, besides matching points, Gemini Pattern
Editor allows you to define dependencies between patterns. Now you will be able to realize an automatic marker
with alignment restrictions for other patterns.
This function supposes that the pattern placement on maker should be defined from the design step. This pattern
placement will be defined by the dependency groups between patterns, structured initially in dependency groups on
horizontal and vertical. Either in horizontal dependency group or in the vertical one, the patterns can be grouped in
free patterns, patterns aligned to stripe and plaid, or independent groups.
The patterns edited as free patterns can be placed anywhere on the marker.
If some patterns are set as patterns aligned to stripe and plaid, they will be placed with the matching point on the
stripe line of the horizontal or vertical group.
If two patterns are set as part of a group other than free patterns group or the group of patterns aligned to stripe
and plaid, those two patterns will be dependent only between them according to the matching point placement; the
first pattern can be placed on any position on the marker and the second
pattern will be placed according to the first one. For the double mirror
patterns to appear identical on the product, they have to be included in
both horizontal and vertical dependency groups.
To define dependency groups for the patterns in a model, click on «
Edit pattern group dependency » button in the upper menu. Thus «
Edit dependency groups » window is opened.
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In the left side of the « Edit dependency groups » window are displayed the horizontal and vertical dependency
groups and the patterns from these groups. To display the vertical dependent groups and the patterns inside them,
click on « Vertical » button. To display the horizontal dependent groups and the patterns inside them, click on
« Horizontal » button.
Initially, only « Free patterns » and « Aligned patterns to stripes and plaid» dependency groups are displayed and
all patterns in a model are part of the free patterns group.
To display the patterns in a dependency group, you must click on the small square with the « + » sign
near the dependency group name or you must click on « Show dependency group patterns » button in
the upper part of the « Edit dependency groups » window.
To hide the patterns and display only the horizontal or vertical dependency groups, you must click on
the small square with the « - » sign near the dependency group name or you must click on « Hide
dependency group patterns » in the upper part of the « Edit dependency groups » window.
For the style with multiple fabric layers (de ex : fond, coating, insertion etc)
you can edit the dependency groups either for a single fabric or for all fabric
layers. Thus, you must use the filter near the message „Fabric”. You must
click on the small arrow on the right side of the box and must select from the
displayed list the fabric for which you will edit the dependency groups. When
you select the fabric in „Free patterns” group, only the patterns from that fabric
will remain displayed.
To add a new dependency group to the other two that are initially
displayed, click on the right mouse button in the « Edit dependency groups
» window and select « Add group »
A new window will open and you will be able to edit the name of the new
dependency group. After editing the name of the new group, click on « OK
» button for this group to appear near the others. If you want to quit the
creation of a new group, click on « Cancel » button.
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ATTENTION
If you want the same design on double symmetrical patterns, then you have to assign these patterns in the same
dependency group, both on horizontal and vertical.
When you select a dependency group, in the right side of the « Edit dependency groups » window , the patterns in
that group will be displayed together with their matching points and the horizontal or vertical alignment according to
striped and plaid fabric.
If you click on the right mouse button on an added dependency group, it will
appear a menu with the following options:
- add group
- delete group
- rename group
If you want to add a new dependency group, click to choose ”Add group”
option. If you want to delete a dependency group, click to choose ”Delete
group” option.
If you want to rename a dependency group, click to choose ”Rename group”
option.
If you want to a subgroup to the selected dependency group, click to choose
”Add subgroup” option. A new window will open and you can enter the name for
the new subgroup to be added.
After you have established the dependency groups and the patterns inside each group, you must click on „Accept”
button in the lower right part of the « Edit dependency groups » window. If you want to cancel the creation of the
dependency groups, click on „Quit” button.
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The project technical sheet contains auxiliary information that goes together with the pattern and the drawing of the
final product. The purpose of these data is to identify and group the model according to model name, season, client,
order, designer and also to provide technical specifications regarding the product realization, indications on the
fabric, accessories, finishing process.
To edit the information in the product file, click on « Edit the project technical sheets ». The project technical sheet
editing window is opened and you can enter the needed information in the corresponding fields. In the project
technical sheet editing window, on the first page you can enter general information for the product; on the other two
pages you can enter drawings and technical specifications for a better description of the final product and the
technological process. To add an image of the final product or a technical drawing in the general information page,
click on « Download image » button. Choose the file for the pattern picture or drawing. The file size must be under
500 kb. It is recommended that the images are on compressed formats as: *.jpeg, *.jpg, *.gif, *.wmf. The images
can be provided by a scanner or from drawing software. To use the pages with drawings and technical
specifications, you must first check the « Use this page with supplementary information » option. The drawings and
technical specifications pages are divided in 4 quadrants; in each of them you can insert text or images.
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To print the project technical sheet, click on « Print project technical sheet » button. Click on the symbol on the right
side of the button; a small menu opens in which you can select three printing options: for product technical sheet,
for all patterns and for technical sheets of the selected patterns.
All technical sheets can be printed if you click on the upper main menu, on « Project » and then on « Print technical
sheets » in the opened submenu. Then click on the sheet type and the “Output Option” window will be opened. In
ths window you can choose to print, to preview or to save the technical sheets in PDF format. Print project and
pattern technical sheets
To print the technical sheet, click on To print the patterns technical A small menu opens in which you
« Print project technical sheet » sheets click on the small symbol on can select three printing options:
button, directly on the printer symbol. the right side of the « Print project for product technical sheet, for all
technical sheet » button. patterns and for technical sheets
of the selected patterns.
To preview the technical sheets In the preview window, the technical If the technical sheet is correct
before printing click on the upper sheet appears identical to the and ready to be printed, click on
main menu, on « Project » and then printed form. You can use the upper « Print report » button. If you want
on « Print technical sheets » in the buttons to cancel the printing process,
opened submenu. to zoom in/out the image or to go to click on « Exit viewer » button.
next page.
To send in electronic format the technical sheets made by Gemini Pattern Editor, these must be converted in
PDF files. For this you must check “File” option from “Output Options”. After selecting “File” click on the arrow from
the “Format” field in order to choose the file type that user wants to save. From the following list you will choose
“Adobe Acrobat (PDF)” .To save a PDF you must press ok button from “Output Options” window.
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To convert the marker report from Gemini Pattern Editor in PDF file, press “Print project technical
sheet” button which is on the the tool bar or select from the bar menu the function Project, the option Print
technical sheets.
Click the button that shows the disk. In the new window that
appears you will set the saving path for the PDF file. Its
name will be edit in the “File name” field after that you will
press the “Save button”.
In the “File” field it will appear the saving path and file name
that will be saved.
Click the arrow from the “Format” field in order to choose the
file that user wants to save. From the following list you will
choose “Adobe Acrobat (PDF)” .Press ok button from
“Output Options” window.
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Printed product technical sheet example Printed pattern technical sheet example
The patterns in the designed model can be directly printed on a plotter at 1: 1 scale, in order to be checked on
shape and dimensions or to generate a product based on this pattern. You can use a large wide plotter, e.g. for
printing the markers for cutting or a smaller plotter, under 1 m wide, in order to print the patterns one by one,
according to the printer working area.
To print the model on the plotter, you must first to select a pattern to be printed. If you must print all patterns, you
don’t have to select any pattern. The pattern selection has to be done in « PATTERN » mode. Hold down SHIFT
key and click on each pattern to be selected. Selection can also be done by circling the patterns by a left click on
the mouse and dragging a contour around the patterns to be selected.
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After checking the preferred options, click on the « Apply » button. The patterns will be displayed identical as they
will be printed on the plotter. Their arrangement has to avoid overlapping and paper wasting.
a. Pattern arrangement
If you choose to arrange and realign overlapped patterns, you must exit the export window by clicking the « Quit »;
then enter the « PATTERN » mode and arrange the patterns as you wish.
Click the button « Arrange patterns on the cut line » to automatically arrange patterns so as after adding the seam
allowance or after pattern symmetrization to avoid pattern overlapping. This button can be found on the first button
bar of Gemini Pattern Editor application.
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Unfolded folds - if you check this option, the patterns with folds will be displayed and printed unfolded.
Symmetrized - if you check this option, the symmetrical patterns with a declared symmetry axis will be
displayed and printed.
Auxiliary drawings – if you check this option, the auxiliary drawings will be printed together with the main
pattern.
d. Choose the patterns to be printed
If you have selected only part of the project patterns but you want to print all
patterns, you must uncheck the message « Export only selected patterns ».
If you work in “overlapped” mode, you can choose to print patterns as displayed or
rotated by 90 degrees.
For the users that have acquired more than one plotter type, you can save the plotter
settings on a separate list. Before printing, you must choose the plotter from the list.
After the result is displayed, you must click on the « Direct plot »
button if you want to print on a plotter or « Export PLT » if you
want to obtain a file with *.plt extension. If you need to print
many copies of the same drawing, then before clicking on the «
Direct plot » button, you must enter the number of copies in the
box near the message « Number of copies ».
If you click on « Export PLT » button, the program will save a file with *.plt extension on the hard disk.; this file can
be sent for printing to any other plotter. From this window you can also export files in RS274D format, when you
click on the « Export RS274D » button; these export files will have the CUT extension.
PLT files
PLT files can have various extensions as: *.plt, *.hpgl or without extension. These files can be used only to print
markers or patterns.
A pattern shape cannot be changed from such a file. If the file contains a marker, you cannot modify or change this
marker.
When you print a HPGL/PLT file, you must check the pattern dimensions, together with their length and width.
If you click on « Direct plot » button, you will obtain a PLT file that will be saved in the ACTIVE directory, from which
it will be automatically read by the Gemini PLT Spooler application.
If you click on « Export PLT » button, you can also obtain a PLT file that can be saved anywhere on the hard disk
and that can be printed later or on another plotter.
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Gemini Pattern Editor program is able to import projects saved in DXF-AMAA format or DXF AutoCad / DXF
standard format.
DXF-AAMA files are accompanied by a RUL or TXT file. These DXF-AAMA files are used for patterns only
and they include only the patterns on the base size. The grading rules for the patterns in a DXF–AAMA file can be
found in the RUL or TXT file. On DXF–AAMA export automatically will be generated files with *.dxf or *.aam
extension and files with *.rul or *.txt extension according to the application used to generate this type of files.
A file which has DXF extension but is not together with another file with same name but with RUL or TXT
extension, contains only patterns, without grading rules (usually patterns for each size separately).
The patterns in a DXF or DXF-AAMA file can be imported on the seam line or on the cut line but never on
both. Sometimes, the seam line can appear inside the pattern but as auxiliary drawing.
DXF and DXF-AAMA files do not include information regarding the pattern number and the fabric used. In
some cases there is some information regarding the fabric type, but this information accuracy must be checked.
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When you import any DXF file you have the multiple file selection option; you can also open them in a single
project. To select multiple files, hold down SHIFT key and left click on the first and last file to select all files between
them. For a random selection you must use the CTRL key instead.
If the imported DXF files have different size sets, the patterns will be imported with different grading groups.
General options
b) DXF files which contain patterns for one size or for many sizes as separate pices.
If the message Import grading rules is unchecked then Gemini Pattern Editor application will import all
patterns from DXF file as separate patterns for each size.
If the message Import grading rules is checked, and the program will find for each size from size set a
correspondent pattern then will convert automatically all sizes of each pattern in grading rules. In this case, you will
no longer import patterns for each size but a graded base size.
If the reconstruction of grading can not be done even if the option „Import grading rules” is checked will
be imported all patterns as separate patterns for each size.
Warning! After grading reconstruction for files which are not DXF AAMA some small deviations can appear
on grading. If the grading deviation can not be accepted it is recommended to import the DXF file without checking
the
„Import grading rules” option and in this situation the import result will be separate patterns for each size.
c) DXF file which contain separate patterns for each size and has associated also a RUL or TXT file
with grading rules. This kind of DXF is not a common type.
In order to import correctly this kind of DXF files it is recommended to check also „Import only base size”
option. Using this option import doubled patterns in same project (once as separate patterns and once as graded
base size) will be avoided.
If “Import grading rules” and “Import only base size” options are both checked the application will import only
the base size from DXF file and the grading rules from RUL or TXT file. If both options are uncheck, then Gemini
Pattern editor will import all the patterns from DXF file (separate patterns for each size) without grading rules.
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If “Import grading rules” option is uncheck and “Import only base size” option is checked, then Gemini
Pattern Editor will import only the base size from DXF file (without grading rules).
If “Import grading rules” option is checked and “Import only base size” unchecked then will be imported the
base size with grading and separate patterns for each size. The patterns imported as separate pattern for each
size will be imported only with curve points on contour.
By default “Import grading rules” option is checked.
Use margin
It is recommended to set a margin if you are using one of the rounding options: for all points or only for curve
points. Will be rounded, made smooth, only the points which will not alter the pattern contour with a bigger deviation
than original one. The margin must be set in millimeters. The margin represents the maximum deviation allowed
from original segment shape.
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Using the import function “Files DXF/AAMA (*.dxf)” will be able to import the files created in AutoCAD/
Corel or files which imitate the original AutoCAD format. It is recommended that at the import of these files not to be
checked the option “Rearrange the imported patterns”; in this way it is possible to correct easier the errors that
result from the different way of construction.
When you will import .dxf files that result from programs AutoCAD, CorelDraw etc. it is recommended to be
tested alternative the standard DXF settings:
- “Use standard dxf format” is checked when you
know for sure if the file results from AutoCAD, or if the
provenience of the file is unknown.
- “Use pattern reconstruction”. Even if the patterns
are displayed in a proper shape in preview window, it is
recommended to test the import checking this option too.
Major differences can be seen in case if the patterns are
spread all around the file. By using the option “Use
detection margin” you can avoid importing of the patterns
with the open contour. For example these margins have
very small values, 1- 2 mm and you don’t have to ignore it.
Simplify patterns
This option was added for DXF files which contain patterns with too many points on contour. If you check this
option the pattern contour will be simplified by removing a number of points. The points removing will alter the
pattern contour according to deviation allowance that is set in the “Simplify patterns” edit. The margin that you set
influences the number of removed points. If you set a big value in margin edit, the program will remove many points
but your patterns will be imported with an alter contour. On the contrary, if you set a very small value in margin edit,
the number of removed points will be small (or may be no point removed) but the contour will be imported with a
bigger accuracy according to original shape. In this situation it is recommended to try import the files with different
values set for deviation allowance in order to find the right value.
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If you click on the « DXF layers table » button, a new window is opening; here you can modify (only if
required)( the value for a layer from which an element is read. The layer number for any imported element must be
introduced according to the DXF file structure.
To get back to the default settings, you must click on
« Default settings » button.
When you try to import a DXF and in preview are
displayed lot of lines or points which are not internal
drawings or internal points it is possible to have all these
elements on an undefined layer. To avoid importing all
these unwanted elements it is recommended to use
“Ignore undefined layer” option. If you will check this option
all undefined layers will be ignored and when a layer is
ignored a message with the layer number will be
displayed.
Warning! It is possible that some DXF or DXF-
AAMA imported files show some errors regarding the
technical elements import: notches, axes, grading. Thus,
these files must be checked carefully before further usage.
- The number of the imported patterns can differ from the number of patterns in the project saved as DXF file.
The pattern number must be checked.
- DXF files or DXF-AAMA files do not include information regarding the fabric type. In some cases, there is
some information regarding the fabric, but you must always check and fill in the fabric name for each pattern.
- You must carefully check the construction line (internal seam line or cut line)
- After grading reconstruction for files which are not DXF AAMA some small deviations can appear on grading.
Also some small distortions on internal lines (or auxiliary drawings) can appear. These problems can easily be
adjusted in Gemini Pattern Editor after import. You must carefully check the grading and internal drawings
imported. If the grading deviation can not be accepted it is recommended to import the DXF file without checking
the „Import grading rules” option and in this situation the import result will be separate patterns for each size.
The import of DXF files using the function “ Files DXF/AutoCAD R12/2000 (*.dxf)” it is used in the situations in
which the .dxf files can’t be imported with “ Files DXF/AAMA (*.dxf)”
Native Gerber files has a *.TMP extension and can include projects and/or
patterns. These files can also be found as ZIP archive and contain all information
set in Gerber. If the ZIP archive include the P-Notch file, in Gemini Pattern Editor
will be imported also information regarding dimension and type of notches. If P-
Notch file is missing, the notches dimensions can be set from the Gemini Pattern
Editor Import window.
There are two Gerber file types that can be imported in Gemini Pattern Editor:
Pattern and Model.
The Pattern file type includes a pattern with a size set, grading, internal line, auxiliary drawings. Such a file
does not include information regarding the fabric type and how many times it appears in the project.
The Model file includes all information about the project (pattern number and type, fabric type). The Model file
can be imported in Gemini Pattern Editor only if it is associated with Pattern files.
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To import Gerber files, you must click on the « Import » option from the « Project » menu. A new menu opens;
here you can find the file list with file type that can be imported in Gemini Pattern Editor. You must choose « Gerber
files (*.tmp) » from the list. After you select « Gerber files(*.tmp) » a new window will open ; here you must select
the path for the file on the hard disk and the file to be imported, from the list. You can also choose the *.ZIP
archives. If the selected directory includes *.tmp files, these will be displayed in the Gerber file list.
If the selected folder includes *.zip files, these will be displayed in ZIP files list; when you select a zip file, the
archive content will be displayed in Gerber files list. If you select a *.zip file and no Gerber file is displayed, then the
archive is invalid.
When you select a *.zip file, the number of projects and patterns in the archive will be displayed automatically.
The import will interest the whole Model or each Pattern separately, by selecting one of the
corresponding options.
In the lower right part of the import page there is a search button; click on it to search only
*.zip files.
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If import native files from Gerber the user can set the internal elements which will be imported .
When checking
« Import all internal
drawings» option, on
imported patterns will appear
all internal drawings from
Gerber : grain axis,
symmetry axis, text lines,
internal points, internal
figures, free lines and other
internal drawings.
Import gradings
If you want to import from Gerber a model with the grading rules, then it must be checked the option “Import
gradings”. By default this option is checked. If you want to import only the base size, then you must uncheck this
option
Notch import
In Gerber, the notches atributes are set and saved in a separate file named P-Notch. If this file is included in
ZIP archive used to import than in Gemini Pattern Editor can be imported also the original properties of notches. In
order to import notches according their original settings from Gerber (from P-Notch file) you must check „Import
notches
according to P-Notch” option.
If the file P-Notch is missing from zip archive and the option „Import
notches according to P-Notch” is checked next message will be displayed:
„P-NOTCH file can not be found in archive.
If the P-Notch file is missing or the user wants to set all notches
properties in import window than can check one of next options:
- «according to default notch settings in Gemini Pattern Editor
application»
or
- «according to the following settings»
Using these options the user can set the type and the dimensions for all
notches from imported patterns.
Cut settings
In Gerber, every interior element (as axis, interior points, and auxiliary drawings) has
as property a letter. For every letter it is a command, which can be a cutting ore writing
command.
For the files imported from Gerber, that don’t respect the initial settings it can be
done a correspondence between letters and commands, in the import window. When
these kind of files are imported, at the Cutting settings, for each letter will be edited the
proper command.
Attention! For a higher accuracy of the imported information from a Gerber file it is recommended to check the
“include all components” option, when you export a file from Gerber.
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Native Assyst files are archived in a ZIP extension file that may contain patterns or styles.
The files in Assyst Bullmer can include patterns of PATTERN or DESIGN type, according to the Assyst program
version; they can be found in the corresponding folders.
The STYLE files can be used for the patterns only; they include all information regarding Assyst except those about
fabric type, size and notches drawing method; the latter can be set from the import window in Gemini Pattern Editor.
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patterns can be multiple, symmetrized horizontally, vertically or both. Thus, you may choose either a direct pattern
import (with the specific doubling options) or to multiply patterns according to the specifications in the original
project. If you choose « import directly patterns (with their own doubling settings) », at file import, you must define
the pattern type as simple, double, double mirrored, in order to keep their number and
position.
Example: if in Assyst, a pattern was defined as triple with horizontal
symmetry, in Gemini this pattern will be imported twice; the first pattern
will have the double setting while the second pattern will have the double
mirrored setting.
If you choose « multiply patterns according to the original model », the
patterns will be imported in the position specified in Assyst (horizontal or
vertical flip, or both) as « simple » patterns.
There are many differences between Gemini and Assyst. Some technical
elements as some notch types (intersection notch) or the seam allowance
(free) are not common for both applications. However, Gemini imports
accurately all these elements.
According to the pattern drawing mode and with respect to the cut line
and the internal seam line, after Assyst file import the result will include:
- patterns on the cut line (patterns) with grading tables, if the patterns in Assyst are worked and graded on
the seam line and the cut line is not graded or is missing;
- patterns on the cut line (templates) with grading table if the patterns in Assyst have a graded cut line. If the
patterns have also a graded seam line, then inside the imported pattern there will be a graded auxiliary drawing
which is the former seam line defined in Assyst;
- patterns on the cut line without grading table (one pattern for each size) for the patterns with « free » seam
allowance.
The « free » seam allowance has no correspondent in Gemini. Thus, when you import a pattern with such seam
allowance, you will obtain patterns on the cut line for each size. These patterns will also have different grading
groups.
In Assyst you may create « intersection » notches. These notches cannot be created in Gemini.
Because you cannot create « intersection » notches in Gemini Pattern Editor, when you import a pattern that
includes such a notch on the contour, we recommend that you make the change in Assyst and then re-import the
pattern.
Attention! Gemini Pattern Editor can import only archive files (ZIP format) exported by Assyst Bullmer for Windows.
Native Lectra files have the extensions IBA , VET or MDL and include projects and/or patterns. In Gemini Pattern
Editor you can import IBA and VET files. These files
are used for patterns only and include all
information from Lectra.
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In the opened window you must select the path on the hard-disk and the file to be imported from a list. If in the
selected folder there are native Lectra files, with IBA or VET extensions, they will be displayed in the Lectra files list.
In the upper part of the file list it will be displayed the number of projects and the patterns in the current folder.
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In the Investronica File list, you can view only one type of
file, models or patterns not both of them in the same time. To
display the desired type of file, you must use the “Investronica
file filter”. For this, you must make a click on the file filter
extension field, and from the opened list, select the type of file
that you want to use.
There are many differences between Gemini and
Investronica. Some technical elements, like some notch types
T or Trapeze notch are not the same in both applications.
Even in this case, Gemini program will import all this elements
in the right position but having different shapes (e.g. the T
and Trapeze notches will be imported as U notches in
Gemini) and the user will be warned about this, by a
warning message.
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Assure that in the Server Option settings the IP, the User and if necessary
the Password used to connect to data base are correctly set.
If the data base is on the same computer, and if you have no
connection to a network the IP field must remain empty.
Click on “Connect” button, to connect to database and on “Disconnect”
to disconnect from database if you are connected.
If the IMG folder containing the pattern and model files is available in
the network, the user has the possibility to connect on it by setting the path.
For this, the user must check the ”Remote file” and then click on “Browse”
button. In the new opened window, you can set the path for the IMG folder
in the network and after finding it, click on OK button to save it. The path
will be displayed in the field next to the “Browse” button. To connect on the
new data base, click on the “Connect” button. The same thing you obtain if
you
know the computer IP. You write the IP, check the ”Remote file”, and then click on the “Connect” button.
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The model files from data base can be filtered using the filters from the top side import window.
All this filters gives you the possibility to sort the model files by brand, industry section, fabric type, size set,
season, status, or by the date when the file was create or changed.
The Delete button can be used to cancel all filters used by user before.
If the „All models” option is not checked, the user will be able to view all models from
data base with the coresponding patterns.
The models will be placed in the models list and the patterns in the patterns list. In the „All models” option is
checked, the model list becomes disable, and only the patterns will be placed in the patterns list.
There is a filter for each list, which allows you to sort the files by a name.
In the preview area, the user can see the model image or the pattern shape.
To import the selected file, you must click on “Accept” button, if not, click on quit.
As on importing the EXP files, the user will be warned about the changes made, because of the differences
between the two Gemini and Investronica programs, on the imported patterns.
There are many differences between Gemini and Investronica. Some technical elements, like some notch types
T or Trapeze notch are not the same in both applications. Even in this case, Gemini program will import all this
elements in the right position but having different shapes (e.g. the T and Trapeze notches will be imported as U
notches in Gemini) and the user will be warned about this, by a warning message.
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Exported contours
You can select what pattern contour will be exported: the seam line, the
cut line or both. Each of these contours must be checked if you want to
export it.
In the upper part of the preview area you can observe the design mode
for the patterns to be exported. Thus you will know if the patterns were
designed on the seam line or on the cut line. According to the pattern
design line and the export settings regarding the contours, the DXF files
will include patterns according to the following tables.
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To validate and to visualize the export settings you must always click on « Apply » button.
Attention ! If the exported file contains patterns designed on the cut line together with patterns designed on the
seam line, on the export step only the « Export cut lines » will be active.
In « General settings » window you must type the profile name, you must define the elements to be
exported, the way the patterns will be multiplied on export and the how the seam lines will be exported
On Export selection you must check the elements to be exported in the DXF file (text, notches, auxiliary
drawings, drill holes, symmetrize axes).
Duplicate patterns settings
For the pattern multiplication you must check the message « one single pattern with duplicates number attached » if
you want to get a single pattern with the indicated number of copies. Alternatively, you must check near the
message
« one pattern for each duplicate » if the file will contain one pattern for each copy.
If you will check “Add suffix for each pattern variant” then the exorted patterns will get a number which
can be followed by the indexes :FX, FY and FXY, that represent the position in which are flipped the patterns at
DXF export.
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Seam lines
If you check « Separate patterns »
the seam line and the cut line will
be defined as two separate
patterns.
If you check « Internal contour » the
seam line will be defined as an
auxiliary drawing inside the pattern
designed on the cut line.
In « DXF fie structure settings » the user must define the settings related to the file header, the polygonal lines
design, and file info.
You have also to define settings for points, notches, grain axis and other settings related to the grading elements
layer.
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In « DXF layer settings » you can edit the layer number on which you can define a specific element. The layer
number for each exported element must be inserted according to the system in which you will load the file.
Whenever after installing Gemini Pattern Editor, you will be able to change the main program settings. To enter the
settings window, in the upper menu click on « Settings » button. The program settings are grouped in a bundle of
chapters, each on a separate page:
General settings
Design settings
Technical elements settings
Digitizer settings
Plotter settings
Keyboard and shortcut settings
Data server settings
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a) General Settings
General settings:
Options Explanations
Working mode: local, from database, In « Local » mode, you work with projects from distinct files that are
demo mode saved on the workstation harddisk.
In « From database » mode, you work on your workstation with
models stocked in a database located on another computer, called
server; on a server there are connected multiple workstations.
Default setting: local In « Demo » mode, you can save only a single project for
demonstrative purposes
Automatic security copy at a selected If you check the option to create an automatic security copy at a
interval; preferred time interval (3-5 minutes recommended), the computer
Security copy at saving automatically saves the designed project in a file named «
Autobackup of project_name.gem ».
If you check the option to create a security copy at saving, each time
you sage the project, the program will automatically save the older
version that corresponds to the last saving. If you realize that you
committed a mistake and you have saved the wrong file, you have the
possibility to open the security copy. The name for the security copy is
automatically generated as « Backup of project_name.gem »
You can save the security files in the same folder with the original files
default: security copies creation boxes (you must check the specific option) or in a separate director, for the
checked security copies only.
Disk paths for different files Choose the folders on the harddisk where different file types will be
saved.
default: the Gemini Pattern Editor installation The saving path can be selected only if the option « Save security files
folder in the same directory with the original files » is unchecked.
Increasing / decreasing zoom step By pressing F2 or F3 keys you can zoom-in or zoom-out the project
size on the screen. You can also set the zoom step increase or
default: 10 % decrease.
Reset tables position The measurements table position will be displayed in the upper left
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b) Design settings
Options Explanations
Measurement unit: mm, cm, inch, inch n/8, The measurement unit can be changed at anytime during working
inch n/16, inch n/32, inch n/64, inch n/m session. All quotes will be recalculated according to the selected
measurement unit.
default: mm
Grid dimension A grid represents a series of evenly spaced horizontal and vertical
lines that are used to help draw and arrange objects. The grid
default: 10 cm dimension, expressed in cm represents the edges dimension for a
grid
eye (that is a square)
Page width and length The page width and length is set according to the dimensions of the
projected patterns. The working surface can be increased up to 10 m x
default: 5000 x 5000 mm 10 m
Quotes precision The number of decimals displayed for the quotes. We recommend
that for measurement units as cm or inch to use maximum 2
default: 2 decimals decimals; if you choose the mm as measurement unit, we
recommend the usage
of a single decimal.
Cursor sensitivity During the design process, the cursor overlapping over a selectable
element (point, axis, contour) does not have to be perfect. There is
default: 4 pixels some tolerance for the cursor during element selection. If you
increase this tolerance, the selection process will be easier but with
less precision. If you decrease this tolerance, the selection process
will be more precise but the overlapping of the cursor to the selected
element
will have to be more exact.
Snap cursor sensitivity If you hold down ALT while moving a point, you can perfectly overlap
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one point to another by magnetization effect. Here you can select the
default: 2 pixels magnetization allowance for a point to be perfectly overlapped on
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another (see chapter 1.6.5). The same precision will be applied while
placing a pattern with the origin on a grid point. (see chapter 1.5.2)
Protection for mouse movement If you select an element (point, axis, pattern) by a direct click, it is
possible that a sudden pattern movement to happen by an accidental
default: 2 pixels mouse movement. Here you can set a minimal distance for
movements to be ignored.
Number of undo/redo levels:
When you want to set more levels of undo/redo, you can obtain 99
default: 10 levels levels.
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Options Explanations
Symbol types used to display graded points Here you can select the symbol that will be used to display the graded
and points on a curve points or the points on a curve. The symbols can be X, cross, square.
Standard notch
Standard notch length Here you can set: notch type, length and width.
default: 1 cm
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d) Colors settings
Options Explanations
Color Profiles You can make three different color profiles for Gemini. By default will
be “Profile 1”.
Default: Profile 1
General settings for drawing Here you can change the Gemini Pattern Editor background color and
you can choose to fill patterns with color.
Background color
default: grey
Fill patterns
default: unchecked
Cursors You can choose the color for the cursors to be black or white.
default : black
Colors used to display different technical The color for the technical elements can be changed. Click on the
elements present color, choose another one and then click on OK to save the
new color.
Symbol types used to display graded points Here you can select the symbol that will be used to display the graded
and points on a curve points or the points on a curve. The symbols can be “X”, cross, square.
Contour color Here you can select the contour color. For this must check “Implicit
color” or “Fill color”. If “Implicit color” setting is checked, the contour
default: fill color color will be the black and you won’t be able to change it. If you check
the” Fill color” setting, the contour color will be the same with the color
set on “Filling color for new patterns” setting.
Interface colors Here you can change the color for: labels and panels, buttons and
Color for labels editable controls. For this click on the present color, choose another
default: grey one and then click on OK to apply the new color.
Color for
buttons default:
grey
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In Gemini Pattern Expert x9 were added layers for all the elements on the patterns (interior lines, cutting lines
seam lines etc). There are ten available layers grouped on two :
a. 5 layers for linear commands : polyline layers
b. 5 layers for punctual elements : point layers
Polyline layers: The layers starting from 0 to 4 are Poliline layers. This means that on these layers you can cut
contours, draw lines etc. Also if you will set an internal point on one of these Poliline layers, the point will be draw
exactly how is created in Pattern Designer.
Point Layers: The next layers, starting from 5 to 9, are Point layers. This means that on these layers you will
be able to drill internal points and to cut notches with a special tool.
For each layer the user can set a certain color. The selected color, will be the color in which you will be able to see
the technical element in the preview window.
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Plotter list: You can create a plotter list for those who have more than one plotter. In this
list there will be displayed the plotter name. By default, there are two options
for the plotter types: ISO CUT and HPGL. The user can always add a new
plotter, modify or delete an already existing one.
Note : When a certain plotter is selected, the settings corresponding to it will
change automatically.
Plotter settings The user must set the origin of the plotter according to its real position. Also the
scaling factors must be checked in order to obtain the correct dimensions for
the exported file.
File creation The option “Ask path each time you create a file” from the section can be
either checked or unchecked
- If the option is checked, then when you export the file the “Save As”
window will always be displayed and you can choose the path for
saving the exported file.
If the option is unchecked, then when you export the file, the “Save As”
window will not be displayed and the file will be automatically saved to the
path set in
the “Use this path” field.
Export type: The user can choose the export type.
-ISO CUT
-HPGL
When a certain option is selected, the settings according to it will change
automatically
The “Marker split” option can be either checked or unchecked
-if the user wants to plot the marker on bands, then the option “Marker
split” must be checked. The user can choose now, to plot the marker on two
bends and in this case must be checked the box “2bends” or he can choose to
Marker Split
plot the marker on three bends, in this case the box “3bends” must be
checked.
-if the user wants to plot the marker on a single bend, then the option
“Marker split” must not be checked
Usually the standard export types (ISO CUT, HPGL) have standard file
extensions ( *.cut, .*plt) which the application uses automatically. If the user
File extension settings needs a different extension for the exported file, he must uncheck the
“Automatic file extension” option and he will be able to edit the file
extension
manually.
You can choose the paper type for printing. The options are role or sheet
type. According to the paper type you have to set the paper size. If you choose
the role paper you have to set only the paper width; if you choose the paper
Paper settings
sheet, you must set both the width and length.
Each export type has its own settings for the measurement unit and also for the commands.
When from the list of plotters it will be selected HPGL, automatically it will be activated the tab HPGL
PLT settings:
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HPGL:
For the HPGL export type the user must set the following:
- The correct measurement unit for the cutting machine
- Each technical element can be set on a specific layer. There are available ten types of layers:
- 5 layers for linear commands : polyline layers
- 5 layers for punctual elements : point layers
- The correct tool for the polyline layers
- The Pen commands : it will be edited the type of command used to put up or put down the pen:
PU – pen up, PD – pen down. These commands will appear in the file plt.
- In the field HPGL header/footer strings, the user can edit a text for the header and the footer for
the exported HPGL file, if it will be pressed the button Edit it will be opened a window where it will be
introduced the text.
For the ISO CUT export type the user must set the following:
- ISO CUT initialization string : this option must be checked so that the information form the
file heading to be according to the ISO CUT
- The correct measurement unit for the cutting machine
- The commands for the “Polyline” and “Point” layers
- The correct tool for the polyline layers
- Export measurement unit in the file: must be checked to show in the file, information
about measurement unit used to the export.
- Invert coordinates with command for drill and punch: this option must be checked if the
cutting machine needs an inverted syntax of the cut file for the drill, punch and label.
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General settings
Notches options: The user can choose to replace the types of internal notches for cutting process or to keep the original type of notch. In the
If it is checked Adjust I notches longer then, all I notches that have the length bigger then the edited value it will be adjusted.
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Notches on auxiliary patterns For the notches from the auxiliary patterns you have
3 options:
-“do not invert”: the notches from the auxiliary
patterns will be as the original pattern
-“bring notches to exterior”: all the internal notches
from the auxiliary pattern will become exterior notches
-“invert notches”: all the notches position will be
inverted. The interior notches will become exterior
notches and exterior notches will become interior
notches.
Invalid notches For the invalid notches you have 2 options:
-“removed”: if this option is checked all the invalid
notches will be removed from the pattern
-“reverted to their original shape”: if this option is
checked than all invalid notches will be reverted to the
original shape
Label options: You can set which information will be exported into a
label together with a prefix which is set by the user.
The prefix will appear in front of the information. For
example if all the boxes are checked at the export the
label will be: S: 38 M: jacket N: front F: fond.
Pattern information In the field Pattern information's it will be checked
what information's will be printed: size, model name or
pattern description.
For text axis it will be plot In the field For text axis it will be plot the user can
select what information's will be plotted : the text and
the line or only the text, in case if the patterns contain
text axis.
Print settings In the field Print settings it will be defined the printing
limits, the maximum dimension of the text that will be
potted and if the text twill be spitted or not on multiple
rows.
Overlapped straight lines settings In the field Overlapped straight lines settings, the user
has the possibility to eliminate the overlapped straight
lines.
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Layer settings
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Saving Profile
Once you have set the type of the exported file you have the possibility to save the changes and the. In the
“Cutter” tab from “Settings” window you can: save the present profile, load a profile that was already saved or you can
restore the default settings. In the right side of the window you can see the name for the current profile, name which
will appear also
in the “Export for the cutting machine” window. Initial, the current profile’s name will be “default”.
If you make any changes on the export settings and you want to save the export profile, then you have to click the
“Save profile” button. A new window will appear where you must choose the path where you want to save the profile;
after that
you must click the “Save” button. Once the profile was saved, the “Current profile” name will change from “default” to the
saved profile name.
If you want to load an existing profile, you must click the “Load profile” button. A new window will appear, where you
have to choose the path from where you have to load the profile, then select it and then click the ” Open” button. Once
the profile was loaded, the “Current profile” name will change to the name of the loaded profile.
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f) Keyboard settings
The most used commands can be easily accessed by creating shortcuts. The Gemini user can select key
combinations for a faster access of some specific program functions. There are predefined shortcuts offered by the
program; the user can also define its own shortcuts, in order to facilitate the working procedures.
In Keyboard Settings window, you can see a command list for which you can define your personal key
combinations. When you select a command from the list, in the “Description” field will be displayed the specific
function for that command. If the selected command has already assigned a key combination, this will be displayed
in the field under the message “Default key combination”. If you want to change this key combination, click on
“Delete” button and then click in the field under the message “New key combination” and assign the keys for the
new combination. After the new key combination is displayed, click on the “Assign”.
For a key with no assigned shortcut, you must follow the nest steps:
- select the command in the “Command” list
- click in the field under the “New key combination” message
- click to choose the new key or the combination key (if the selected key or combination key was already assigned,
this mention appears in “Assigned to the command” field). After choosing the key combination, this will be displayed
in the field under the message “New key combination”
- click on “Assign” button. After clicking on this button, the assigned key combination appears in the field under the
message “Default key combination”
- before quitting the setting window, to keep changes click on “Accept” button. If you want to cancel changes, click
on “Quit” button.
If you want to recover the initial settings, click on “Load default settings”.
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The patterns for cut are obtained by applying specific operations on the designed patterns:
Obtain the graded patterns by applying the grading rules.
Symmetrization for symmetrical patterns
Folds unfolding
Alignment to the grain axis
Adding the seam allowance if the pattern was designed on the internal seam line.
During these operations some errors or inadequate results may occur, especially if there were errors in the model
design. For example, the designer may forget to define the grain axis of a pattern or the finishing type for the seam
allowance corner in a point can be inadequate.
To avoid that these failures will appear on the marker used for the lay cutting, you must use the check function.
Click on « Check the patterns prepared for cut » button located in the upper right menu. Gemini Pattern Editor
simulates the preparation for each pattern of a given size before cutting. The checking result is displayed on a list. If
there are failures on a pattern, the user will be able to check and to correct the errors.
The possible failures emphasized by this check are:
- self intersection of the pattern contour
- correct point declaration
- notches placed out of the pattern
- zero dimensions notches
- the pattern axes are declared out of the pattern
- technical points declared out of the pattern
The points and lines that have generated errors can be visualized by selection from the error list. These errors can
be automatically fixed (e.g.: notches dimensions) or have to be fixed by the by the user (e.g. contour self-
intersection).
If you check the option « Check auxiliary drawings », the program will automatically check al auxiliary drawings in
the model.
The checking of the patterns can be stoped in the verification process by pressing the “Stop” button, which is in the
lower right side of the window “Assistance”. When you press this button , the program stops the checking of the
patterns, this can be resume by reactivation of the button “ Check patterns ready to cut”.
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The program can automatically check the selected patterns after each operation. For an automatic check
you must check « Check pattern after every modification » in the Setting window.
If the automatically checking option is inactive, it is important to check periodically the modified patterns.
To check one or more patterns, enter the PATTERN mode, click to select the pattern to be checked then click
the
« Check selected patterns » button. If no pattern was selected, while you click on « Check selected patterns »
button, all patterns will be verified.
Thus you can check if there are any overlapped points, if there is a grain axis, if the selected pattern has
an origin point, if the origin point is located on the pattern surface, if the technical elements are correctly reported on
points.
The checking of the patterns can be stopped in the verification process by pressing the “Stop” button,
which is in the lower right side of the window “Assistance”. When you press this button , the program stops the
checking of the patterns, this can be resume by reactivation of the button “ Check patterns ready to cut”.
Check results are displayed on a list. Some failures can be automatically fixed by the program. For the
program to automatically repair the problems on a pattern, click on the se « Pattern repair ». The errors that cannot
be automatically fixed (due to pattern shape modification) are visually marked on the pattern by circling the points
where the error is present. Thus, the user can easily detect the errors.
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Remote assistance:
Each user can now request assistance from a remote Gemini office by a simple mouse click using the
“Remote assistance” system. The Gemini technician can connect directly to the customer's computer and work
directly to the screen of this computer, solving any problem in real time. To use this function, your computer (on
which you have installed Gemini programs) must be connected to an internet network.
Warning! Before getting connected to Remote Assistance, you must contact a Gemini technician by
phone, using the service phone numbers or by Messenger, to inform them about your problem. The Gemini
technician will tell on which server you can connect. This must be done to avoid connecting on a server where
another Gemini user is connected.
To be able to use the “Gemini Remote Assistance” system, besides the update for the Gemini Pattern
Editor program you must make another update for the Remote Assistance. You can download “Update remote
assistance”. from Download section on Gemini web site www.geminicad.com .Before you make the update
ensure that the Gemini Pattern Editor application is closed.
To establish the connection to the Gemini office, the user must access the function “Remote assistance”
from Help menu in Gemini Pattern Editor Application. After this choose the Server number from the new opened
window, and then click on “Accept” button to establish the connection. A new icon will appear in the right down
corner when the user activates the “Remote assistance” function. This icon contents a blag “G” on orange
background if the connections was successfully established, and if the connection failed it looks like an yellow “G”
on black background.
You can select the server from this window. Click first
on the field extension (black dart) to open the server
list and then choose the server name to select one of
the five Servers.
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Gemini CAD launched the Remote Assistance Service. Each user can now request assistance from a remote
Gemini office by a simple mouse click. The Gemini technician can connect directly to the customer's computer and
work directly on the screen of this computer, solving any problem in real time.
On server list will be displayed all servers that can be accessed by the Gemini users. To add or to delete a
server from this list you must use the “Add server” or “Delete server” buttons.
On “Remote assistance server” automatically will appear the name of the selected server, the server IP and the
server port number.
Application
Gemini Pattern Gemini Nest Gemini Photo
Hardware Gemini Cut Plan
Editor Expert Digitizer
description
Processor P IV 1500 MHZ
Free Disk Space 1 GB
RAM memory 512 MB 512 MB 1 GB 1 GB
Recommended
Sound Card not required not required not required
For digitizing
Ports for dongle – Onboard COM port or PCMCIA adaptor
hardware protection key or USB to serial adaptor – USB to RS232
Converter
COM port
Other ports not required not required not required
(for digitizer)
CD- ROM For software installation
Windows XP Windows XP Windows XP
Windows XP
Operating system Windows 2000 Windows 2000 Windows 2000
Windows 2000
Windows Vista* Windows Vista* Windows Vista*
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* To run Gemini programs under Windows Vista you have to follow the steps below.
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Wireless pointer
IMPORTANT: before usage, the digitized must be ON; thus you have to switch the « ON / OFF » button
located back on the upper right side of the digitizing table; check the computer cable to be connected.
After entering the « DIGITIZE » mode and the digitizer is connected, you will not work with the mouse or
keyboard anymore; now you will use the digitizer. To supervise the correct pattern conversion by digitization we
recommend:
- Place the monitor to be at least partially visible from the position the user takes while working on the
digitizing table.
- Computer speakers to be turned on in order to hear the messages from the Gemini Pattern Editor program
during digitization
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Wired pointer
IMPORTANT: before use, start the digitizer from the « ON / OFF » switch in the backside lower left corner
of the digitizer; please check the connection with the computer.
To check if the digitizer is on and functional watch the green led to be lit; also, when you get the pointer
close to the working surface, the red led on the pointer is lit. Now the digitizer is ready to use. If something does not
look to work, please check: the cables, the digitizer « ON / OFF » switch and the pointer to be plugged in the right
place.
At the first use for the Gemini wired digitizer, it must be configured according to the user manual. This
operation is done once, on installation.
Enter the « DIGITIZE» mode. If the digitizer is plugged correctly then you will hear a short beep; thus, the
digitizer informs you that it is ready to use. If the digitizer is not connected or the computer connection fails, an error
message will appear on the screen. Check connections and restart procedure.
After entering the « DIGITIZE » mode and the digitizer is connected, you will not work with the mouse or
keyboard anymore; now you will use the digitizer. To supervise the correct pattern conversion by digitization we
recommend:
- Place the monitor to be at least partially visible from the position the user takes while working on the
digitizing table.
- Computer speakers to be turned on in order to hear the messages from the Gemini Pattern Editor program
during digitization
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User manual - Gemini Pattern Editor
Plan
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User manual - Gemini Pattern Editor
Plan
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