Theory of Dyeing & Thickener
Theory of Dyeing & Thickener
Theory of Dyeing & Thickener
Pigments are insoluble coloring matter mostly organic and inorganic (mineral origin) have been used for
the coloration of metal wood, stone, and textile material.
Pigments have no direct affinity to textile fibres. They are fixed on textile materials (fibre/yarn) with the
help of a binding agent in form of a thin invisible coating.
Difference between Dyes & Pigments :
Dye Pigments
5. Costly 5. Cheap
Pigments
1. Organic 2. Inorganic
Classification of Pigments:
1. Organic:
1.1 Dyes converted into pigments.
a) Dyes made insoluble by precipitation on substrates.
b) Vat dyes converted into pigments.
1.2 Azo pigments
1.3 Phthalocyanine pigments.
1.4 Quinacridone pigments.
1.5 Iso-indoline pigments.
2. Inorganic:
2.1 White pigments.(used in printing)
2.2 Coloured inorganic pigments.
a) Ultramarine pigments.
b) Cadmium pigments.
c) Iron oxides pigments.
1.2 Azo pigments can be classified-
Azo pigment
Water
insoluble
(Group-1) Water soluble azo Chelates
pigments Heavy
(Group-2) metal
(Group-3)
1. Organic pigments:
1.1 Dyes converted into pigments:
a) Dyes made insoluble by precipitation on substrates.
Example: Erioglucine (C.I. Acid Blue 9) is precipitated as its Barium salt on Alumina
hydrate[AL(OH)3] to make Peacok Blue lake (C.I. Pigment Blue 24) for use as a transparent
trichromatic blue in printing ink.
CH 2CH 3 CH 2 CH3
N C N+
SO3Na H2C
SO3Na
Br Br
COOH
O2N N N
Cl N N
OH PERMATONE Orange 5
NO 2
ORANGE
O2N N N
Binder 20 g/lit
Levelling agent 2 g/lit
Acetic acid (pH=5) 1-2 g/lit
Temperature in padding 600C
mangle
Temperature for curing Cotton 160Cfor
2-3min
Polyester 180C
for 2-3min
Procedure:
At first, binder is weighted and diluted with cold water. Then pigments and other
ingredients are added to it.
The dyeing liquor is well filtered and stirred. Fabric is rolled on feed roller and passed
over guide roller below immersion roller and in between padders.
Then the dye liquor is taken in immersion tray.
The fabric passes through the dye bath, takes up pigment solution and then squeezed by
padder roller which regulates pick up percentage.
After dyeing, the fabric is dried at 900-100C and then curing is done at Cotton 1600C
and Polyester 180C for 2-3mins.
Process sequence:
Fabric Preparation
Padding the fabric in pigment dispersion in a padder.
Drying (90-100C)
Curing (Cotton 160C
Polyester 180C)
Pigment Dyeing faults:
1. Listing effects: It occurs along the width of fabric due to uneven pressure of padder
rollers which cause shade variation.
2. Tailing effect: It occurs along the length of fabric due to changing concentration of
pigment liquor. This also causes shade variation.
Precaution:
1. The fibre to be dyed should not be alkaline.
2. Optical brightening agent should not be used because it may produce faulty shade.
3. Binder should not be allowed to form skein which ultimately give specky shade.
Pigments printing:
Pigment-------30 parts
Binder---------600 parts
Fixer-----------10 parts
Na alginate---100(50% solution)
White sprit---250 parts
Pre treatments
Dryer Curing
(Cotton 140-160ºC/110-120ºC 3 – 5 min)
(Polyester 160 - 220ºC 30 – 60s)
Screen printing
Factors affecting the amount of print paste passing through the screen:
1. The mesh (thread/inch) or raster (thread /cm) of the screen; generally a coarse mesh
allows more past to pass through than a fine one.
2. The fraction of open area in the screen fabric.
3. The hardness or X-section of squeeze blade.
4. The hardness of eh printing table
5. The viscosity of eh print paste
6. The number of squeeze strokes (2-4)
7. The squeeze angle and pressure(550)
8. The speed of the squeeze strokes etc
9. Etc.
Procedure:
All the screens for the design (one screen for each color) are positioned accurately along the top of
along endless belt (blanket)
The fabric to be printed is feed to the printing table by feed system and is welded by
glue with endless conveyor belt.
The conveyor draws forward below screen in equal difference and printing paste
mechanically supplied is welded on fabric according to design by squeeze through screen.
Automatic squeeze system of individual screen is controlled by mechanically or electro
magnetic power with individual motor.
By using different colors in different screens, printing effect of different colour can be
made.
By washing device, weld glue on belt can be cleared.
Advantages:
Highest production.
As many as 24 colors in a pattern can be produced, 8-10 colour can be printed easily.
No joint mark.
Suitable for woven and knitted fabric.
Stripe design can be done in warp.
Disadvantages:
Printing cost is high due to high price of screen.
Not suitable for short runs.
Different screens are needed for varying colors.
Not possible of fine line design.
Squeeze system of rotary screen printing:
The following squeeze systems are commonly used in case of screen printing-
1. Rode squeeze system.
2. Blade squeeze system.
3. Air flow squeeze system.
1. Rode squeeze system: In rod squeeze system a rod is used to squeeze the ink through the
screen. The rod may be moved by magnet. The pressure of the squeeze is controlled by magnet.
When there is a resilient bed under the screen, eh used of large rod on high magnetic field may
distort he screen. This increases the contact area of rod and screen and increase pressure created
by tow moving surfaces causes more amount of print paste to pass through the screen than to a
blade squeeze.
2. Blade squeeze system: In blade squeeze system, a stationary match blade is used to force the
paste through the screen. The blades are flexible and made up of stainless steel. The curvature of
the blade, angle of contact between blade and screen etc changes according to applied pressure
and pressure can be adjusted by adjusting ball and bearing. Length and stiffness of blade are also
useful variables. For ensuring even and level printing some manufactures use phosphor bronze
blade against which a rod is pressed by and inflated air sack. When printing light weight
synthetic fabrics or transfer printing paper a metal blade is preferred to a rod.
3. Air flow squeeze system: In air flow squeeze system, magnetic rod squeezes and blades are
supported by air/sacks by which print paste is passed through the screen. Due to the pressure of
air, required amount of paste is pressed against the fabric.
Design aspects:
(a) Manual-
1. Design selection
2. Repeat sketch
3. Color separation
4. Step and repeat
5. Registration
(b) Computer aided design (CAD)
1. Scanning
2. Colour reduction
3. CAD operations
4. Proofing
Design aspects:
1. Design selection: When planning to produce and market a print, the design and fabric quality
must first be selected. The design should suit the end-use e.g. small motifs, stripes or checks for
men’s shirting, larger motifs and repeats for furnishing fabrics. While selecting a design it is
necessary to describe which printing method will be used or the lengthwise repeat is subjected to
limitation of the screens etc. for example the repeat is likely to be 64 cm or a simple fraction of
this for rotary screens.
2. Repeat sketch: The individual design unit (repeat) must fit together perfectly in order to
avoid the appearance of discontinuities that become visible when the long lengths of fabric are
inspected to this end. The repeat sketch is arranged very carefully and also fixed.
3. Color separation: Having produce a repeat sketch, the next step is to separate the colors in
the design. This is done by reproducing eh design areas of each color separately on a clear f
translucent, dimensionally stable film. The color separation usually consists of positives paint d
by hand using opaque paint. Automatic color separation is also possible; it is pore successful for
simple geometric design.
4. Step and repeat: Once a single repeat of the design has redrawn in a suitable form it must
normally be replicated in eh correct arrangement so as to fill eh screen and cover the full width
of the fabric to be printed. In flat screen printing, the design should not reach the frame as there
must be room for eh paste reservoir at the ends of each stroke of the squeeze. Such combinations
do not apply to rotary screens.
5. Registration: It is essential to include registration lines on each color separation during its
penetration. These are lined up when the completed separations are checked for registration by
placing them one on top of another over a glass table illuminated form beneath the glass. Pitch
marks are used to check registration during printing.
Fundamental mechanism of screen printing:
Pressure profile:
The down ward force ‘F’ on the squeeze is necessary to produce the required angle and to
prevent the blade being lifted off the screen but otherwise has little effect on the hydrodynamic
pressure in the paste wedge except that due to any distortion of the screen. The hydrodynamic
pressure si increased by-
1. decreasing the squeezing angle ( )
2. increasing the blade length of eh pressure zone (b)
3. Increasing eh speed of squeeze movement (v)
4. increased paste viscosity( )
5. reduced screen pore radius(r)
Here F=downward force
b=base length of pressure zone
v=speed of movement of squeeze
=paste viscosity
=squeeze angle
a=screen pore radius
Simple flow through holes in screen can approximately descriebed by Poiseuille relationship-
Pr 4
Q=
8l
Q=Amount of print paste
P=hydrodynamic pressure
I=Base length
F
v
Paste
Screen
b
Advantages of screen printing faults over roller printing:
1. The number of colors in roller printing is usually restricted to 4-6 whereas that in screen
printing is as much as 14-16.
2. Generally the external circumference of the roller varies form 330-540mm i.e. here up to
540 mm design repeat can be produced. But in screen printing large repeats of 612-
640mm can be printed.
3. The purity of color is not maintained in roller printing as compared to flat and rotary
screen printing due to previous color running into subsequent colors specially when large
yardages of cloth are printed.
4. Due to the limitations of the sequence of colors form deep to light , the sharpness of print
has to be sacrificed in certain designs in roller printing.
5. Screen printing like rotary screen printing is comparatively more productive than roller
printing. For example, the production rate in roller printing is 25.8m/min and that in
rotary screen printing is 37m/min
6. In screen printing both continuous widthwise and lengthwise lines can be produced but in
roller printing horizontal lines and very blotches are difficult to produce due to doctor
dipping.
7. The handling of heavy engraved roller makes changing of design difficult and time
consuming. But it is easy to change the screen to change the design.