Something Red

By Wendy Bernard

For Bust Sizes:

32(34, 36, 38, 40, 42, 44) inches

Approximate Finished Bust Size:

33(35, 37, 39, 41, 43, 45) inches

Gauge:
18 stitches and 22 rows to 4 inches

Materials (as shown):

Blue Sky Alpacas, Blue Sky Cotton
(Color 619; 100 grams=150 yards)
5(6, 7, 7, 8, 8, 9) hanks

US Size 7 (4.5mm) Circular Needle,

at least 29 inches long

US Size 7 (4.5mm) Double Point

Needles, or additional circular to knit
in the round, if that is your method of
choice

Two Stitch Markers in Color A

Four Stitch Markers in Color B

Tapestry Needle

Scrap Yarn

Sometimes all you need is something red. Or if you don’t 1 – 1.5 inch Button
particularly like red, maybe sometimes all you need is something
Difficulty:
blue. Or green. You get the idea. This pattern is recommended for an
intermediate knitter.
I needed something red. And I wanted a cardigan, too, but not
your run-of-the-mill cardigan. I wanted something with an Terms and Abbreviations:
interesting neckline, something that sways a bit. Something that CO – Cast on
has a bit of swing, but is slimming at the same time. K - Knit
K2tog – Knit two stitches together
Knit in one piece from the top down, this cardigan features a little M1 – make one (increase)
bit of short row shaping at the back of the neck so it curves ever P – Purl
PM – Place marker
so slightly.
RS – Right side
Ssk – Slip two stitches individually
Something Red is knit with a worsted weight 100 percent cotton knitwise; knit two slipped stitches
yarn. Possible substitutes would be a cotton/wool blend, or even together through the back loops
your favorite wool in similar weight. Instructions for long sleeves SM – Slip marker
are also included. (Just be sure to buy a little extra yarn if you’re St st – Stockinette stitch
making the sleeves longer!) WS – Wrong side
YO – Yarn over

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Cast on, in this order:

CO 1 (1, 1, 1, 1, 1, 1) [front]
Place Marker A
CO 1(1, 1, 1, 1, 1, 1)
Place Marker B
CO 7(7, 7, 8, 8, 8, 8) [sleeve]
Place Marker B
CO 22(23, 24, 24, 25, 26, 27) [back]
Place Marker B
CO 7(7, 7, 8, 8, 8, 8) [sleeve]
Place Marker B
CO 1(1, 1, 1, 1, 1, 1)
Place Marker A
CO 1(1, 1, 1, 1, 1, 1) [front]

A total of 40(41, 42, 44, 45, 46, 47) stitches cast on.

Raglan Increases

Row 1 (RS): K1, SM A, work to next B marker, YO, SM B, K1, YO, work
to next B marker, YO, SM B, K1, YO, work to next B marker, YO, SM B,
K1, YO, work to next B marker, YO, SM B, K1, YO, work to next
marker, SM A, knit to end.

Row 2 (WS): Purl

Repeat these two rows four times (you will have

completed 8 rows.)

Neckline Increases
th
On the 9 row (RS), work your first neckline increase.

Neckline increase row: K1, M1, work to first A marker,

SM, work to next B marker, YO, SM B, K1, YO, work to
next B marker, YO, SM B, K1, YO, work to next B
marker, YO, SM B, K1, YO, work to next B marker, YO,
SM B, K1, YO, work to next marker, SM A, work until
there is one stitch left on the needle, M1, K1.

After doing one neckline increase row, repeat the

th
neckline increase row on every 8 row.

Continue working the raglan increases on each RS row,

th
and neckline increases every 8 row until the raglan
seam (measured on the diagonal from neck to
underarm) measures 10(10.5, 11, 11.5, 12.5, 13.5,
14.5) inches, or approximately 21(22, 23, 25, 26, 30,
32) raglan increase rows.

On next RS row, work across left front to first sleeve marker (“B” Marker), place sleeve stitches on scrap
yarn and remove second sleeve marker. CO 1(2, 2, 2, 3, 4, 4) stitches PM, CO 1(2, 2, 2, 3, 4, 4) stitches.
Work across back to next sleeve marker, place sleeves on scrap yarn and remove last sleeve marker.

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CO 1(2, 2, 2, 3, 4, 4) stitches, PM, CO 1(2, 2, 2, 3, 4, 4) stitches. A total
of 2(4, 4, 4, 6, 8, 8) extra stitches cast on for each underarm.

Continue working body back and forth in stockinette stitch and

increasing for neckline as before until there are 6(7, 7, 8, 8, 8, 8)
stitches on each side of the circular needle—before the first “A” marker,
and after the last “A” marker. At this point, you may remove the “A”
markers and continue working the body.

When the body measures (from top back neck to needles) 11.5(12,
12.5, 13, 13.5, 14, 14.5) inches, count your stitches, being sure that you
have an even number. If not, on your next WS, purl two together in an
inconspicuous place to adjust your stitch count in anticipation for the
waist ribbing.

Note: Before you begin the

next step, it is a good idea to
try on the sweater or compare
it to the intended
measurements. The ribbing
should begin just below the
bust line, or hit very high in the
waist. If the body is too short,
work another inch or so to
insure a well-fitting sweater.
Also note, later you will be
adding ribbing along the edges
of the cardigan that will add
about two inches to the
circumference.

On next RS Row, begin 2x2

ribbing (K2, P2) for 3 inches.

When ribbing measures 3

inches, you will do one ribbing
increase row:

Ribbing Increase Row

On next WS row, work to your

first K2. Then, M1 and purl the
next two stitches. Work across,
working a M1 after each set of K2’s to the end. On the following RS
row, you will work the increased stitches as purl stitches which will
create a K2, P3 ribbing.

Work for 1(1, 1, 1, 2, 2, 2) inch(es) in K2, P3 ribbing and repeat the

ribbing increase row again:

On next WS row, increase as before: work to your first K3, then M1 and
purl the next two stitches. Work across, doing a M1 after each set of
K3’s to the end. When you turn and work back on your RS, the ribbing
will now be K2, P4.

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When piece measures 22.5(23, 23.5, 24, 24.5, 25, 25.5) inches or desired
length, from back of neck to bottom, bind off in ribbing pattern.
Short Rows
Short rows are actually pretty easy
and give the garment a nice shape.
Short Sleeves
To do short rows, you work to the
Place sleeve stitches on US size 7 double point needles, two circulars, or turning point, slip the next stitch
one circular, depending on your favorite method to knit in the round. In the purlwise to the right needle. Then,
underarm/body gap, between the front and back of the sleeves, pick up bring the yarn to the front and slip
and knit 1(2, 2, 2, 3, 4, 4) stitch(es), PM, pick up and knit 1(2, 2, 2, 3, 4, 4) the same stitch back to the left
stitch(es). needle.

Note: The number of underarm stitches to pick up and knit is a Turn the work, and bring the yarn in
position for your next stitch,
suggestion. Your goal is to pick up just enough stitches so that your wrapping the slipped stitch as you do
underarm will lie smoothly and not have holes. so.

Work the sleeve in stockinette stitch, in the round (knit every round). Hiding Short Row Wraps
When underarm measures 1 inch, work to underarm marker, SM, K1, If you hide the wraps, your garment
K2tog, work to three stitches from underarm marker, SSK, K1. Work 4 will look so much better! This is how
rounds, repeat decrease round one more time. you do it:

Count your stitches to make sure that the number is divisible by 4. Adjust To hide a knitted wrapped stitch, on
the right side, work to just before the
by making an additional decrease if necessary. wrapped stitch, insert your right
needle from front, under the wrap
Work sleeve until it measures 2(2, 2, 2, 2.5, 2.5, 2.5) inches. from bottom up, and then into
wrapped stitch. Knit them together,
Switch to 2 x 2 ribbing for 3.5 inches. Bind off in ribbing. making sure the new stitch comes
out from under the wrap.
Repeat for other sleeve.
To hide a purled wrapped stitch, on
Full-Length Sleeves the wrong side, work to just before
the wrapped stitch. Insert the right
needle from the back, under the
Read instructions for short sleeve version. Work the sleeve in stockinette wrap from the bottom up, and put it
stitch, in the round (knit every round). When underarm measures 1 inch on the left needle. Purl the lifted
begin your sleeve decreases. wrap and the stitch together.

Sleeve decrease round: Work to underarm marker, SM, K1, K2tog, work
to three stitches before underarm marker, SSK, K1.

Repeat the sleeve decrease round every 6 rounds 3 (3, 3, 4, 4, 5, 5)

times.

Style note: Since this sweater is knit in one piece and the sleeves are knit
in the round, TRY IT ON! You may decide that you want to do fewer or
more sleeve decreases.

Count your stitches to make sure that the number is divisible by 4. Adjust
by making an additional decrease if necessary.

Work sleeve until it measures 11.5(12.5, 13, 13.5, 14, 14.5, 15) inches or
desired length minus 3.5 inches for ribbing. Change to 2x2 ribbing and
bind of loosely.

Repeat for other sleeve.

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Collar and Button Band

This neck treatment features short row shaping to create a A Note About Stitch Counts
collar that gently curves along the sides and the back of the Top-down sweaters, especially ones
neck. See the sidebar for information on how to do short rows that are fitted, require that the knitter
and how to wrap stitches and correct them. obtain the exact row gauge in order
for the sweater to end up matching
With RS facing, and beginning with the bottom edge of the the intended measurements.
cardigan, pick up and knit 180(184, 192, 200, 208, 216, 224)
stitches around the entire cardigan, placing a marker at the To avoid potential issues with fit,
center stitch of the raglan increases (between the two holes measurements have been given as
checkpoints instead of stitch counts.
formed by YO’s) on either side of the FRONT neck (these
markers will be near your collarbones.) See photo for There are places in this pattern
placement. where you will be asked to count
stitches and adjust the stitch count
Beginning with a WS row, work 2x2 ribbing, starting with a so a certain ribbing will work.
P2. Depending upon your particular
shape and how you want the
On the next RS row, you will begin to work short rows sweater to fit, adjusting stitch counts
between the two markers you placed in the front center by one or two stitches will not be a
problem, especially if you increase
raglan sections.
(use a M1) or decrease in an
inconspicuous place like the
Work in pattern up to first marker, SM, work in pattern to one underarm or waist area.
stitch before the second marker, wrap the next stitch and
turn. Work to one stitch before the next marker, wrap the
stitch and turn.

Continue in this manner, and work to the wrapped stitch,

“correct” the wrapped stitch, work 1 additional stitch in
pattern, wrap the next stitch and turn.

When the center back of the collar, measured from the

cast on edge to needles is 1.5 inches, on the next RS
row, work all the way around, down to cardigan bottom
edge.

On next WS row, remember to correct the last wrapped

stitch.

Continue working the cardigan ribbing back and forth.

When ribbing measures ! inch, plan to make a
buttonhole.

Buttonhole

The buttonhole should be placed on the right button band under the bust line or high on the waist.

On either the WS or RS, work to the desired buttonhole placement. Cast off 2 stitches in pattern.

On the next row, work to cast off stitches. Cast on two stitches. Work in pattern to end.

Continue ribbing until it measures 2 inches. Cast off loosely in ribbing.

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Finishing

Weave in ends. Darn underarm if necessary.

Block sweater. Attach button. Finish buttonhole if desired.

No commercial reproduction of garments from the Garter Belt Design Team patterns allowed without prior permission
from the designers. If you are in doubt about an intended usage, just ask!

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