Sac Pour Balle de Laine

Yarn Project Bag
optimized for printing

Sew up a roomy bag that’s perfect for
carrying balls of yarn and your knitting or
crochet projects too!
This half-barrel shaped bag has an easy to

install eyelet (or grommet) on top through
which you can draw out the yarn.
With your yarn ‘in the bag’ it will stay clean

even when the bag is on the floor - perfect
for using at home and in the car, at
appointments, or at a friend’s house!
Finished size: approximately 10’’ x 11’’.
Materials:
• 1/2 yard of fabric for the bag exterior
• 1/2 yard of fabric for the bag lining
• 1/2 yard foam stabilizer (such as ByAnnie Soft and Stable)
• 40’’ of piping (such as Wrights Maxi Piping)
• 1 size 4.5 YKK handbag zipper, 20’’ long (one or two pulls, as desired)
• 1 large or extra large eyelet (I prefer Dritz eyelets and find them fairly easy to install)
More fabric and zippers may be required if you decide to add pockets.
Cutting: From your lining fabric cut:
From your exterior fabric, cut: • 2 from the template on p. 11-12

• 1 rectangle 10’’ x 11’’ (bag back)
• 2 from the template on p. 11-12 • 1 rectangle 9 1/4’’ x 18 3/4’’ (bag
• 1 rectangle 10’’ x 11’’ (bag back) front)
• 1 rectangle 9 1/4’’ x 18 3/4’’ (bag • cut or piece together one bias cut
front) strip 2 1/4’’ x 20’’ (for bias
• 1 strip 4’’ x 42’’ (strap) binding)*
• cut or piece together one strip 2
1/4’’ x 33’’ (for straight binding)*
Click here for the blog post. 1

*Note: a bias cut strip may be used instead of the 33’’ straight-cut strip, but a straight-
cut strip cannot be substituted for the 20’’ bias cut strip since it will be sewn around a
curve.
From the foam stabilizer, cut:
• 2 from the template on p. 11-12

• 1 rectangle 10’’ x 11’’ (bag back)
• 1 rectangle 9 1/4’’ x 18 3/4’’ (bag front)
Make the Strap
1. Fold the 4’’ x 42’’ strap piece in half lengthwise and

press. Fold the edges to the center crease and press. Fold
in half and press again to make a 1’’ x 42’’ long strap.
2. Topstitch along both edges of the strap 1/8’’ from the

edge.
Tip: a Walking Foot helps with this step as well as when

sewing other parts of the bag that have multiple
layers.
Prepare the Bag Top and Bottom Pieces
1. Place the rounded top and bottom exterior fabric

pieces with the wrong side against the foam
stabilizer pieces of the same shape. Baste around
all edges 1/8’’ from the edge.
2. Sew piping around the curved edge of both

pieces. Switch to a zipper or piping foot (if
available) to help you sew right next to the piping
with matching thread.

3. Choose one curved piece to be the bag top.
Sew one edge of the zipper around the curved
edge, face down, right on top of the piping with a
1/4’’ seam allowance (or as needed to sew close to
the piping. Move the sliders out of the way as you
sew near them.
Note: you may pin or clip the zipper around the

curved edge before sewing, if desired.
Clip away any extra zipper tape flush with the straight edge of the piece. Sew back and
forth over the zipper teeth 1/4’’ from the cut edge in order to create a new stopper on
both ends (so you don’t accidentally pull oﬀ one or
both sliders).
4. Place one of the curved lining pieces right sides

together with the top piece, sandwiching the zipper
in between. Stitch around the curve with a 1/4’’
seam allowance.
5. Turn the top piece right side out and press the
fabric seams gently. Baste the straight edges
together 1/8’’ from the edge.
Attach the Bag Front
1. Place the 9 1/4’’ x 18 3/4’’ exterior fabric piece with the wrong side against the foam
stabilizer piece of the same size. Baste around the edges 1/8’’ from the edge.
Baste the lining fabric piece of the same size against the back of the stabilizer.

2. Use a pencil or fabric pen to mark the center of
the front piece along the long edges at the top and
the bottom.
Fold the curved top piece in half and mark the center
of the zipper (on the back of the zipper).
3. With right sides together, line up the center mark on

the zipper with the center mark on the top of the front
piece. Clip together.
Then place clips around the edges of the round

curved edge, easing the rectangle piece to fit.
Stitch with a 1/4’’ seam allowance.
4. Carefully trim away 1/8’’ from the seam allowance

of the fabric and stabilizer behind the zipper tape (do
not cut the zipper tape).
5. Then fold the zipper tape down to cover the seam

allowance. From the inside stitch the seam allowance
down close to the edge. Alternatively, you could
topstitch on the outside 3/16’’ away from the zipper.
Either way will create topstitching on the exterior and
finish the seam on the inside.

Attach the Bag Back to the Bag Bottom
1. Baste the 10’’ x 11’’ exterior fabric piece to the

stabilizer piece of the same size (bag back).
2. Pin or clip the curved edge of the bottom piece to

the 11’’ top edge of the bag back. Stitch with a 1/4’’
seam allowance. Press the seam towards the bag
back.
Repeat step 2 with the lining bottom and bag back

pieces.
3. Place the wrong side of the the lining piece against

the stabilizer with the exterior and piping on the other
side. Clip.
Baste around the piece 1/8’’ from the edge.
4. If desired, topstitch on the exterior of the piece

just above the seam on the bag back.

Sew the Bag Bottom to the Front
1. Fold the curved bottom piece in half and mark the

center of the curve.
2. Right sides together, clip the bag bottom to the

lower straight edge of the front, matching the center
marks and clipping around the curve.
Important: The corners of the straight edge extend

1/4’’ past the seam that joins the bag back and
curved bottom piece as seen at right.
3. Start sewing on the seam between the back and

curved edge, and then sew around the curve,
stopping at the same seam on the other side.
T
his means that on the other side, the ends will stick
up by 1/4’’.

Attach the Strap
1. Turn the bag right side out. Pin or clip the ends of
the strap to the straight unsewn edge of the top - 1’’
away from the piping on both sides.
2. Stitch over the ends of the strap 1/8’’ from the edge
to secure.
Finish Assembling the Bag
1. Turn the bag wrong side out again. Clip the top
edge of the bag to the straight edge of the top with
the strap ends sandwiched in between.
If the top of the bag back is centered properly

against the straight edge of the top, the ends of the
back will extend over the zipper by 1/4’’.
2. Stitch with a 1/4’’ seam allowance: starting and stopping at

the zipper on both ends. Do not sew on the zipper.

3. Open the zipper slightly so you will be able to turn
the bag right side out.
Clip the sides together.
Stitch with a 1/4’’ seam allowance.
Finish the Seams
Tip: I finished my interior seams with binding, but you

could sew the edges with a zig zag stitch instead, or
serge the seams.
1. Fold the 2 1/4’’ x 20’’ piece of bias cut binding in

half lengthwise with the wrong sides together.
Turn the bag upside down and clip the raw edge of
the bias binding around the curved edge. About 1’’ of
extra binding will extend past the corners.
2. Stitch the binding to the curved edge with a 1/4’’

seam allowance.
3. Flip the binding over to the other side and sew it

down close to the folded edge.

4. Fold the 33’’ piece of binding in half lengthwise,
wrong sides together.
Clip the raw edges to the raw edges of the seams

starting at one bottom corner (that you just bound),
going up and over the top straight edge, and then
down to the opposite bottom corner (also just bound).
Cut oﬀ the ends of the binding so that only 1/2’’ of
binding extends on either side.
5. Sew the binding around the bag, 1/4’’ from the

edge.
When you reach each top corner, put the needle

down, lift up the presser foot, turn the bag 90
degrees, straighten the binding to make a mitered
corner. and continue sewing.
6. Flip the binding around to the other side. Fold the extra
1/2’’ down at the ends to make a neat corner.
Stitch the binding down close to the fold. Use a

sewing stiletto to help around the tricky parts (like
mitering the corners).

Add 1 or more Eyelets for the Yarn
1. Use a ruler and a pencil or fabric marking pen to

measure and mark the center of the bag top.
2. Use one of the eyelet pieces to mark the circle for

cutting.
Tip: since the top has three layers that are kind of
loose, use a small stitch length (about 1) to sew around
the circle, just outside it - before cutting out the circle.
This way the layers won’t shift when you attach the
eyelet.
3. Cut out the circle and finish installing the eyelet

using the manufacturer’s instructions.
Are you going to keep your yarn bag for yourself or gift
it to a crafty friend? I’d love to see it. Please share a
photo on Instagram and tag me @sewcanshe so I can
see!

yarn project b
top/bottom of bag pattern t
1/4’’ seam allowance incl
cut: 2 from exterior fab

2 from lining fabric
2 from flexible foam stab
rn project bag
ttom of bag pattern template
seam allowance included
t: 2 from exterior fabric

2 from lining fabric
m flexible foam stabilizer

Sac Pour Balle de Laine

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Yarn Project Bag

optimized for printing

This half-barrel shaped bag has an easy to

With your yarn ‘in the bag’ it will stay clean

Finished size: approximately 10’’ x 11’’.

Cutting: From your lining fabric cut:

From your exterior fabric, cut: • 2 from the template on p. 11-12

Click here for the blog post. 1

From the foam stabilizer, cut:

• 2 from the template on p. 11-12

Make the Strap

1. Fold the 4’’ x 42’’ strap piece in half lengthwise and

2. Topstitch along both edges of the strap 1/8’’ from the

Tip: a Walking Foot helps with this step as well as when

Prepare the Bag Top and Bottom Pieces

1. Place the rounded top and bottom exterior fabric

2. Sew piping around the curved edge of both

Click here for the blog post. 2

Note: you may pin or clip the zipper around the

4. Place one of the curved lining pieces right sides

Attach the Bag Front

Click here for the blog post. 3

3. With right sides together, line up the center mark on

Then place clips around the edges of the round

Stitch with a 1/4’’ seam allowance.

4. Carefully trim away 1/8’’ from the seam allowance

5. Then fold the zipper tape down to cover the seam

Click here for the blog post. 4

1. Baste the 10’’ x 11’’ exterior fabric piece to the

2. Pin or clip the curved edge of the bottom piece to

Repeat step 2 with the lining bottom and bag back

3. Place the wrong side of the the lining piece against

Baste around the piece 1/8’’ from the edge.

4. If desired, topstitch on the exterior of the piece

Click here for the blog post. 5

1. Fold the curved bottom piece in half and mark the

2. Right sides together, clip the bag bottom to the

Important: The corners of the straight edge extend

3. Start sewing on the seam between the back and

Click here for the blog post. 6

Finish Assembling the Bag

If the top of the bag back is centered properly

2. Stitch with a 1/4’’ seam allowance: starting and stopping at

Click here for the blog post. 7

Clip the sides together.

Stitch with a 1/4’’ seam allowance.

Finish the Seams

Tip: I finished my interior seams with binding, but you

1. Fold the 2 1/4’’ x 20’’ piece of bias cut binding in

2. Stitch the binding to the curved edge with a 1/4’’

3. Flip the binding over to the other side and sew it

Click here for the blog post. 8

Clip the raw edges to the raw edges of the seams

5. Sew the binding around the bag, 1/4’’ from the

When you reach each top corner, put the needle

Stitch the binding down close to the fold. Use a

Click here for the blog post. 9

1. Use a ruler and a pencil or fabric marking pen to

2. Use one of the eyelet pieces to mark the circle for