VetBooks.

ir
VetBooks.ir

Guide to Parrot
Touching and Handling
by Johanne Vaillancourt
translated by Marlène Picard

Parrot User's Manual Collection

E. P. A.

2
VetBooks.ir

Table of content
Credentials

Foreword

Your Parrot

Sensuality

The Touch
Why Touch a Parrot?

The Taming
Developping Trust
Fearing Bites
The Untouchables
Your Hands
Caresses and Hugs
Intermission - A One-Person Bird

Up..! Up..! Hey! What's Up Doc???

The Step Up Request
Teaching a Parrot to "Step Up"
Intermission - Delineate the Flying-Off Zone
Intermission - The Third Leg
Stepping Down
From the Rear
Floor Routine
The Art of Proper Perching
The Staircase
A Foot on Each Hand
Intermission - Left vs. Right-Handed
Conjuring Bites
Intermission - The Nibbling
Use of a Perch for the More Difficult Parrot
Using a Towel for a Very, Very Difficult Parrot
Taking the Bird from his Cage
Patience and length of time...
Be Constant

3
 A Minimum of Free Will
VetBooks.ir

Ways to Misuse the Step Up

Trust and Intimacy (Gentle Manipulations)

The Initiation
Feathers not Hairs
And the head... and the feet... and the tail...
The Parrot Touch
Come Over Here that I Cuddle You
French Kiss... no Lips!
So Gooooooood!
Embracing and Hugging your Parrot
See What the World Looks Like

When you have to... (Unavoidable Manipulations)

The %?#!*&% towel!
Item: the Towel
Method of Desensitization to the Towel
Games and Manipulations with a Towel to Maintain Confidence
Wrapping your Bird for a Necessary Contention
Towelling Methods for First Necessities
The Cross Over the Back Method (1)
The Cross Over the Back Method (2)
The Cross Over the Chest Method (2)
The Cross Over the Chest Method (2)
Single Person Manipulations
Chest and Face Areas
Two Persons Manipulating
Crossed over the chest
Cross on the back
Bath Time
Intermission - The Bath
Intermission - Singing in the Rain!
The Nails
The Beak
The Wings

On the Mattress (Active Manipulations)

Jump, Jump the Rabbit
Lying on the Back
Intermission - Too Old to Change?
The hanging Parrot

And the Harness in All This?

Idyllic Method with an Easy Parrot
Concrete and much more most probable scenario

4
 Mapping the Harness
VetBooks.ir

Most Likely Method with a Protesting Parrot

Harness in the Form of a 8
Notes on Outdoors Outings
Basic Safety Rules when Outdoors

And the Others?

Intermission - Playing Tag the Parrot

It Does Not Work!

Conclusion

Bibliography

About the Author

5
VetBooks.ir

Credentials

Publisher
Éditions du perroquet anarchiste / EPA
Address: http://www.perroquet-anarchiste.ca/contact.php

Copyright
Legal Deposit: Second Quarter of 2014
Bibliothèque et Archives nationales du Québec
Library and Archives Canada
ISBN-13 978-2-923426-01-3
Originally printed in Canada in 2014

Related copyright
Copyright ©Johanne Vaillancourt 2006
Le perroquet, touchers et manipulations 978-2-923426-33-4
Copyright ©Johanne Vaillancourt 2003
Jeux de mains, ISSN 1712-4638, 2003, December.

All rights reserved.

All reproduction in part or in whole of texts or photos strictly forbidden in any

form or by any process without written authorization by the author or the
publisher.

By the same author

(in French)
La tripolarité comportementale du perroquet
Le perroquet, touchers et manipulations
Jouer avec son perroquet / Socialisation et apprentissage par le jeu
La zoothérapie, une thérapie hors du commun (collective)
La tripolarité comportementale des perroquets (DVD)
Les tours et les trucs (DVD)
(in English)

6
 Parrot Touching and Handling, 2014
VetBooks.ir

Behavioural Tripolarity of Parrots (in preparation)

Socialization and Apprenticeship through Games / Playing with a Parrot (in
preparation)

Credits
Translation: Marlène Picard (Mooghie)
Cover: Sylvain Cayouette

Photos
Many thanks to all who collaborated to this work by sending photos of their
feathered treasure.
Christine Cadoux, Cristina Marques, Diane Vachon, Guylaine Turgeon, Henri
Brisson, Jean-Luc Robichaud, Jeanne Bessette, Laurianne Paquette, Lyse
Vaillancourt, Marcel Julien, Marie-Gabrielle Costa, Marie-Jeanne Portail,
Michèle Deshaies, Natacha Larivière, Nicole Gélinas, Sylvain-Luc Richard,
Sylvie Castonguay, Viviane Martin-Roman, Philippe Thibodeau and... Johanne
Vaillancourt

Translation Notes
*Coco is the French-type form of the general affectionate name used to
impersonate the typical domestic parrot. It may be compared to Polly.

*Human darling is the favoured human of Coco, the one he will accept
(almost) everything from and that he will pursue (almost) of his assiduity!

*Use of masculine and feminine pronouns have been chosen over the
traditional neutral gender to refer to the parrot in this book. The aim is to
emphasize the emotional nature and bonds expressed by parrots. Parrots are
sentient beings and should be treated as such. The reader will note that in
the original language of this text, French, the neutral gender does not exist
and consequently, animals are masculinized and feminized.

*Intermissions: you will find throughout the book sections titled

"Intermission". They reflect a parte sections of the original "paper book".

7
 When these a parte sections are located inside the main text body, you will
VetBooks.ir

have the possibility of jumping them by the use of a "Jump Intermission"

link.

Additional Thanks
Sylvain, Sylvie, Odette, Stephanie, Christine and Jean, Renée, Jean-Luc,
Marlene, Dave and Lucie and my BBB (Big Bird Band) for your help and
support. Without you, this book would not have been possible.

8
VetBooks.ir

Foreword
The information in this book is offered as indicative and has no character of exhaustivity, or even
certainty.

This book is for informed and discerning individuals. The author and the publisher have made
every effort to offer the most accurate and most up to date information at the time of printing, and
they expressly decline any responsibility for errors, oversights or omissions about its subject or for
the misuse of the information, blunders or accidents.

A parrot imprinted to humans, dyssocialized or poorly socialized to human, untamed, physically or

psychologically abused, badly nourished or sick has the potential to inflict severe injuries to a
person. The application and usage of the suggestions presented in this book are left to the
discretion and judgment of the reader. Vigilance remains the best guarantee for the safety of the
bird, family members, guests and even oneself.

Be careful and responsible.

9
 VetBooks.ir

10
 "Please, tame me!" he said.
VetBooks.ir

"I want to, very much," the little prince replied. "But I have not much time. I have friends to
discover, and a great many things to understand."
"One only understands the things that one tames," said the fox. "Men have no more time to
understand anything. They buy things already made at the shops. But there is no shop anywhere
where one can buy friendship, and so men have no friends any more. If you want a friend, tame
me..."

ANTOINE DE SAINT-EXUPERY
The Little Prince

11
VetBooks.ir

Your Parrot
The idea of adopting a pet is generally to fulfill a need within one’s
personality. Who wants the hassle of an animal that will require lifetime care
(parrots live a long time), that will have needs to be met, for example the
cleaning of the bird's living quarters, if the animal does not meet a clearly
defined role in someone's life. During a very interesting and stimulating
discussion with Quebec ethologist Richard Beaudet, I had to agree when
Richard brought forward the idea that humans acquire a pet for reasons that can
sometimes seem frivolous, but which are nevertheless quite specific and are
generally of a very emotional nature. I had to agree with him as I have never
met people who said they wanted to acquire a parrot for practical reasons...
and that a parrot can be all one desires except... practical! Here are two of
Richard's explanations that caught my attention.

"The animal acts as a mirror, an extension of oneself."R.B. Often indeed

our parrot feeds our ego when we see him behaving better or differently than
the neighbour's or when the animal seems to evidently prefer us instead of the
other people also present in his environment.

12
VetBooks.ir

Here I must say (mea culpa), Richard is right. It is amazing the amount of pride
I often discern in parrot enthusiasts conversation.

"Don't tell me!, your parrot will not let you touch him... I do what I want with
mine. You know, my parrot acts almost as my bodyguard, he will not let anyone
approach me, he will react whenever people try to pet him, blah blah blah."
And I am not any different! When coming back home at night, following a
consultation with a particularly difficult bird, I have often commented happily
on how much better behaved my parrots were, me deserving, of course, all the
credit for their good behaviour. I can also remember some gratifying moments

13
 when someone got the cold shoulder when passing close to one of my birds.
VetBooks.ir

Just like everyone else, I find it hard to hide my satisfaction, not to sneak in a
little smile.

Yes, we get to live vicariously through our animal: he is exceptional - we are

exceptional ... So life goes!

"The animal is a prosthesis, one of the best emotional support that exists."
R.B. As you all know, our parrots do not judge us, they accept us as we are,
love and embrace our little peculiarities and our weaknesses: my parrots
swear like me, sneeze like me, sing badly like me. Most of them communicate
imitating my voice and they are always in sync with my mood. Parrots provide
unconditionally this reassuring affection that we love to wallow in when near
them. No one should feel embarrassed because of the emotional bond they
share with a parrot, and this with good reasons. It has long been shown that
pet therapy can perform small miracles with our emotional state and, with a
parrot ever present, we are actually in the front row reaping all of the benefits.

14
VetBooks.ir

One of the finest qualities of a parrot... knowing how to be loved!

In addition to helping us get our life balance back, the animal performs
brilliantly the role of social buffer allowing us to connect easily with others.
Consider for example the hours of stimulating discussions with a spouse who
strongly objects to the installation of some perches in the dining room; or the
sudden interest of the neighbour next door, with whom exchanges in the last ten
years had been limited to a courteous hello, but that your parrot's early morning

15
 vocalizations are now making you enjoy fully. And what to say of the
VetBooks.ir

marvellous monthly meetings at the Parrot Club where you meet people who
share the same passion and where you finally get to talk at length about the
superb exploits of your charming bird and where you know that fellow parrot
enthusiasts will fully appreciate the last pictures taken of Coco in the shower,
in the garden or enjoying his breakfast... Oh yeah!

Now that we have nicely highlighted some of the reasons that motivate the
adoption of a parrot, we must also provide the means for him to fulfill his role.
Because, you see, the bird that will join your household will not arrive as a
perfect fit to you; he is not a ready-to-wear item. A parrot is somewhat like
haute couture, you have to shape the fabric, adjust it to you and your lifestyle
and remember that you may need to readjust some of the seams over time.

16
VetBooks.ir

Of course, to become a good designer you will have to get to know this
wonderful fabric that is your parrot and accept the innate behaviours that are
integral part of his temperament and personality. You will also have to accept
that almost all of his acquired behaviours will come from you and that,

17
 therefore, you must assume full responsibility for those behaviours, the
VetBooks.ir

desirable ones and the others... the less attractive ones. Even if this is not
always evident, you are the artist that shapes your bird's attitudes, his actions
will reflect what he has learned from you. As a parrot never acts for anything,
you will also have to discover the motivations behind your bird's actions...
good or bad: these are the driving forces behind the behaviour. You will have
to motivate your bird by using the concept of pleasure: parrots do not learn
under duress or if a negative consequence can be the result of that learning;
parrots need to be stimulated positively in every aspect of their lives, and that
includes the training and taming. Socializing a parrot is very much like hand-
stitching, every material is used differently and you must be attentive to your
companion every step of the way; observing his ability to adapt to new things
and to changes, making notes of his emotional responses and, above everything
else, remembering to apply this most important concept when doing haute-
couture:

YOU MUST TAKE THE TIME REQUIRED…

18
VetBooks.ir

Sensuality
"The world of smells, shapes, colours and sounds is purely subjective, it is mere appearance. Only
the touch provides the certainty of a reality."
– Dr Yves Lazorthes

Most parrots are very physical and sensual animals. They need the intimacy
that comes from the touch to meet their emotional needs and their enormous
craving for safety. Often, the parrot has only available, in a captive context, his
preferred human to meet his innate emotional needs. As I mentioned in the
book "Behavioural Tripolarity of Parrots", you are the closest thing to a parent
to a baby parrot, or a spouse to a bird reaching puberty phase or sexual
maturity. The touch is a very unique and essential tool that will allow you to
create a strong emotional bond and that will help you establish a trusting
relationship with your parrot.

You are the tenderness and security provider of your bird. He needs you!

Most species of parrots in their natural environment demonstrate highly

19
 developed physical contacts between members of a social group. Parrots touch
VetBooks.ir

each other when feeding and grooming mutually, when caressing, playing, etc.
Anything is a pretext for physical contact for these very social animals. It is
only reasonable that the domestic parrot will expect the same types of contact
with you, the human companion among those he will consider an integral part
of his social group, that is the members of your family.

20
VetBooks.ir

Again, we must try to overlook our deep-rooted dog and cat mentality that,
among other things, dictates that what does not have fur cannot be caressed.

21
 Too often during private consultations or conferences, I have seen looks of
VetBooks.ir

surprises when talking about parrot touching. Still too many people are
unaware that a parrot can be petted and cuddled just like a dog or a cat. People
just don't know how to do it because they imagine feathers as rigid when in fact
they are as soft and inviting as fur. It is true, feathers are not hairs, but if you do
it the right way you will quickly realize that feathers are very pleasant to the
touch and that parrots respond positively to caresses. Sometimes, you will
even get the impression that your parrot reacts just like a cat! In fact parrots are
quite good at purring... in their very own personal way, of course.

With the exclusion of a few species and/or depending on the personality of the
parrot, most of them love to be cuddled and enjoy the benefits of touching and

22
 being touched. Being touched and caressed produces a relaxing and a strong
VetBooks.ir

feeling of well-being, it stabilizes the nervous system and strengthens the

immune defences. Touching and caressing a partner reduces anxiety, creates a
feeling of general wellness and certainly acts positively on moods. In both
cases, the benefits are without doubt the creation of powerful and emotional
ties between the one who cuddles and the one being cuddled.

With parrots, just like it is with humans, touch is the first sense to awaken.
Even before seeing and hearing, it is through touch, by sensing the parents'
body heat and by physical contact with siblings, that the chick collects external
information and gets a deep sense of safety and security.

23
VetBooks.ir

The first form of communication in the chick passes through the touch.

Unlike the other senses, touching involves the entire bird's body, from the head
to the tip of the tail; it is the first perceived communication for all animals.
Performed properly, touching as you can guess, will convey affection,
tenderness and fondness, all reassuring feelings.

24
VetBooks.ir

It has been shown that the absence of touching or a negative experience in the
early years of the bird's life can cause among other things, later on, difficulties
in establishing satisfactory relationships with others in his social environment.
Touching is one of the unique experiences of socialization that you can offer
your parrot; and most importantly, it is a precious tool in the creation of strong

25
 emotional ties.
VetBooks.ir

26
VetBooks.ir

The Touch
"The awakening of self-consciousness is largely a matter of tactile experiences."
- Ashley Montagu

To properly socialize and train your parrot, it is best if you can touch and
handle him with confidence. It has often been shown that not being touched in
the early stages of life can lead early on to behavioural problems in the
development and that these problems are likely to persist or amplify into
adulthood. Also, according to Dr. Harnett "Gentleness fosters calm and docile
behaviours in animals, whereas the absence of attentive care tends to instill
shyness and irritability." Needless to say that I agree with this
wholeheartedly, as I have often noted this flaw in excessively anxious and
nervous parrots; parrots who demonstrated aggressiveness at the slightest
attempts by a person to approach them.

27
VetBooks.ir

It is unfortunate that in the beginning of the 21st century, many avian

professionals continue to neglect this fundamental need and that there is still
too many young hand-reared parrots who do not know or do not recognize this
type of affectionate contact. I still believe that if people want to replace the
natural parents by feeding the chick by hand, they must invest in all of the other
aspects of his socialization and education, and one of these is the securing
effect of affectionate touches.

To touch one's parrots necessarily means that there will be a first time, and that
first touch must be introduced with tact and gentleness, especially if the parrot
seems reluctant when you approach his body with your hand. If you frighten

28
 him in your first attempts (your first attempts at anything), it will be very
VetBooks.ir

difficult to earn back his trust or to undo what you have just damaged. You must
take the required time and work with your parrot gently while respecting his
ability to adapt to new things. You should always progress a little further or at
least remain at yesterday's stage, but never less. You will need to be patient
and above all constant in your approaches and you will have to learn to be
opportunistic in using fully those moments when the bird is more receptive to
being touched. At the beginning, there is a good chance that your parrot will
seem resistant to being manipulated and/or touched, not because he does not
like it, but simply because he cannot understand this type of physical contact.
He does not know or maybe he has never been taught; and most importantly,
you are still a stranger. So it is by gently helping him that gradually he will get
used to your touches, and above all will enjoy being touched.

29
VetBooks.ir

A confident parrot is a happy pet. The gift of himself will be complete if feeling secure.

During private consultations, I have often met parrots, labelled aggressive,

who were in fact frightened of people, especially fearful of the human hand and
of any affectionate attempts at touching. Even a parrot raised by humans can
fear caresses if he has never experienced this type of socialization in his early
years, even if the caresses are from his preferred person. It is not an unusual
situation and, fortunately as noted in "Behavioural Tripolarity of Parrots", the
parrot is an intelligent animal capable of adapting to some apprehension with
the intervention of a caring and attentive person; a person who respects the
bird's instinct and is mindful of the reaction it elicits. Of course, it will require
some serious investment on your part. If you are the type to quickly lose

30
 interest in long-term projects, do not adopt a parrot as he requires a lifetime of
VetBooks.ir

attention.

A parrot normally constituted has as strong a need to feel secure in his

environment and to be accepted within his social group than to have a
companion to share special intimate moments, regardless if it is a bird or a
person. If you are the one chosen to play this role, ideally your parrot should
have no qualms about you; you will have to prove that you are the one who can

31
 best meet his needs for security by becoming this ideal and instinctively
VetBooks.ir

searched for companion. In his book "Haptonomie, science de l'affectivité",

Frans Veldman defines the touching as: "the first language that can be used as
a means to communicate affection". So why not take advantage of such a
valuable communication tool?

The important thing is to never make the bird feel uncomfortable or uneasy, or
to rush him in your desire to touch him, and above all never cause pain through
clumsy handling. You cannot attract flies with vinegar! To a certain extent, you
should never force a parrot to act against his will. Be aware that certain types
of touches or manipulations are not at all perceived as loving or even friendly;
a clumsy touch may be interpreted as an act of predation or domination, and if
this gesture is forced upon the bird, it is even worse and you may have a hard
time catching up as it can leave a dreadful impression. Better move forward
slowly but surely, carefully observing the signals sent by the bird when
touched in new ways. The reaction of your parrot is still the best barometer.
Do not go too fast, every individual move forward differently, following his
own rhythm. There is no magic formula or predetermined time period to go
through each of the stages until absolute trust. Again, always remember to
apply this important rule: Take the time required...

32
VetBooks.ir

Why Touch a Parrot?

Touching your parrot is not an obligation and despite all your seductive means,
certain temperaments will adamantly refuse it. I have in fact often seen the
establishment of magnificent complicity between parrots and humans without
any physical contacts taking place. It is true that for the majority of parrot
enthusiasts there is a need to touch one's pet, and that for most people the
relationship with their bird would not be considered complete without
touching.

Abandoning oneself to the partner requires great trust.

For a parrot, touching plays a fundamental place in the amorous ritual, and to
abandon oneself completely to the other, as they do so well, requires great trust
in their partner. If you are the one and only companion available to your parrot,

33
 you owe him at least to try... and to persevere a little before assuming that your
VetBooks.ir

bird is part of the category of the untouchables.

34
 VetBooks.ir

35
VetBooks.ir

Touching allows the creation of that emotional bond your parrot craves, and
touching will support, maintain and reinforce this bond every day. On a more
pragmatic note, it is clear that a parrot used to be touched will be easier to
handle during grooming (bath, nails) and is less likely to panic when held or
wrapped in a towel or during an emergency.

36
VetBooks.ir

The Taming
People often have unrealistic expectations about their young and newly arrived
parrot. They do not understand why, when approaching the bird, he seems
apprehensive, hesitant or why he refuses to be petted. Especially if at the time
of purchase they were told that they had a totally tamed parrot because he was
hand-fed. Maybe, but tamed with whom? The young parrot that is hand-fed is
certainly familiar with the person that fed him, and he is without doubt familiar
with people, but not necessarily tamed with you in the common sense of the
word. The young parrot does not recognize you as a familiar and reassuring
face, one he has learned to identify... not yet certainly.

37
VetBooks.ir

Let's refer to the words of the fox answering the Little Prince of Saint-Exupery
in response to the question: What is taming? "It means to establish ties... To
me you are still nothing more than a little boy who is just like a hundred
thousand other little boys. And I have no need of you. And you, on your part,
have no need of me. To you, I am nothing more than a fox like a hundred
thousand other foxes. But if you tame me, then we shall need each other. To
me, you will be unique in the entire world..." In this story, we could replace
the fox by a parrot and the Little Prince by yourself... "You are for me a human
just like a hundred thousand other humans... But if you tame me, you will be
unique to me in the entire world..." This is the meaning of taming: to become
unique in the entire world!

38
VetBooks.ir

Taming is a big responsibility. Do not disappoint your pet!

A parrot can be socialized to the presence of various humans, but they will not
be unique in the entire world... YOU must become unique in the world to your
bird.

Taming is an exchange, realized in successive stages, with the aim of building

trust between you and your parrot. The fox, again, explains it better than I do:
"You must be very patient. First, you will sit down at a little distance from
me - like that - in the grass. I shall look at you out of the corner of my eye,
and you will say nothing. Words are the source of misunderstandings. But
you will sit a little closer to me every day." In fact, the taming of a parrot is
nothing less than an interspecies dialogue in which we must take into account
the parrot's nature, his individual instincts connected to his condition as a prey
animal, and the reactions that might result if you are clumsy in your

39
 approaches. Taming must be done without abruptness, one step at a time. It
VetBooks.ir

must stimulate the parrot's sense of security while encouraging patiently his
initiative. It is an act that requires great respect and whose main aim is to
create a real trusting bond. This trust is not included in the purchase of the
bird; let's say that it is optional to the adoption contract.

Now that we know that taming comes first from the sense of security that will
eventually blossom into trust, and that it may take more or less time to emerge
and that it all depends largely on your attitude... well, the next step will be to
work on that attitude of yours.

You must first learn to observe your parrot and be prepared to perceive the
messages of contentment or distress that he is sending you. Whilst doing so,
you must also take into consideration (whether with a young or mature bird),
two determining concepts in communication:

1. Your voice: you must talk a lot (nonstop) to a newly arrived bird in your
household (and keep this good habit throughout his life). Remember predators
are generally silent as they move towards their prey. The bird will be less
likely to perceive you as a threat if you talk and make sounds. The tone of your
voice must obviously be gentle, soothing and reassuring.

2. Your movements: move very slowly around the bird, do not make sudden
movements, it is a prey animal, do not forget it. Respect his flying-off zone*,
do not get too close on your first attempts, give the bird the time to assess you.
In the case of a very young baby, it is quite possible, if he has been properly
socialized by the breeder, that he will let himself be manipulated by you
without any concerns; you will have to determine this yourself. However, you
must still follow the "moving slowly rule" so as not to destroy the fragile
confidence of the young bird.
* Note: The flying off zone is the distance that the bird will allow between a person and himself
before flying off. It is through observation that you will identify what that zone is for your parrot.

The newly arrived bird, regardless of his age, does not know you or your
means of communication and, by the way, you do not know the new bird either,
or his means of communication. So it is a stalemate for now. As this is an
interspecies dialogue, one player may at any time give a very personal

40
 interpretation of the other's gestures, and it may not necessarily reflect the
VetBooks.ir

reality felt by the other. Well, well... the transmission codes between humans
and parrots are extremely different and one or the other, depending on the
situation, may distort the content of the message expressed by his interlocutor.

Examples of distorted messages

You are delirious with excitement by the arrival of your new baby and in a
moment of joy, you naturally attempt to pet his back like you do with your
kitten.

- Message received by the frightened bird: Alert, a predator tries to grab me!
The bird, overwhelmed by fear, uses his beak to push away this threatening
hand... Ouch!

- Your perception of the bird's reaction: I have not done anything to this
parrot and yet he bites me for no reasons! He is aggressive... neurotic... he
has a behavioural problem... the breeder lied to me ... (ad libitum)!

41
VetBooks.ir

Two messages sent, two messages interpreted incorrectly. Result... still

stalemate... 100% error on the part of both teams.

Obviously, you understand that you should not push the limits by trying to
obtain personal favours from this newly arrived bird right away. Before
attempting any daring touches with your parrot, it is important to give the bird
the time to know you and to learn how to decode you. You also have much to
learn... learning to assess this new bird. What makes him feel safe, what
frightens him, what are his reactions to certain situations, black or white?

42
VetBooks.ir

If already terrified by humans, do not confirm these fears by trying to force more intimate touches.

If he appears apprehensive, do not try to touch him. Instead, talk to him a lot;
stay near as much as possible and show your attention in a respectful manner.
You must take the time to discover each other. Taming takes time and patience,
and parrots trust people who spend time with them, a lot of time. It is wrong to
believe that your parrot will vow you unconditional love simply because you
had the foresight to adopt him. You will need to be constant in your affection
and your interactions. It is only then that you will create a trusting bond. This is
not about whether you are male or female, taming is not about gender, it is
about the human being that is present and cares for the bird.

43
VetBooks.ir

Regardless of sexes, taming ignores the gender but focuses on the attention of whoever is present.

So, you must sell yourself to your parrot, you must seduce him before thinking
of going further with more personal or intimate contacts.

44
VetBooks.ir

Developing Trust

Of course, before embarking on a tussle with your parrot in the style of the
World Wrestling Federation (WWF), you must first slowly get him used to be
manipulated in order to gain his trust. Work alone with your bird in the
beginning to achieve this. Having more than a few people present may make
the bird anxious as he will have to monitor the movements of more than one
person in the room. It is certainly not the most effective way to get his attention
or to have him react with spontaneity. Over time you will introduce new faces
in your exchanges and you will encourage the bird to interact with these less
familiar individuals while you remain close to reassure him. You will need to
stay calm, composed, with a relax and open attitude towards the bird. You
should never underestimate the strong empathy of parrots. If you are nervous,
the bird will feel it, will not be at ease and may even cease at once to
communicate with you.

You must be available, constant and especially patient in your dealings with
Coco the parrot. Each individual has his own personality, his own learning
pace and his own ability to adapt to novelty. The parrot can assimilate new
behaviours and adapt or modify previously acquired ones at all ages. He is
never too old to change his ways and, with your assistance, he will adjust.
Some birds may take longer to bestow their trust and it is then that your attitude
will be crucial. An attitude that is inconsistent, incoherent or impatient will
harm the development of the desired behaviours or worse will bring up issues
that were not part of the bird originally.

45
VetBooks.ir

Your expectations must be fair and reasonable. Do not listen to other people's
stories and experiences about their own relationship with their parrot; your
bird is unique as you are unique and, therefore, your experience will also be
unique. Your parrot will adapt to you just as you will adapt to him. You will
need to adjust your training according to the reactions of this bird, since you

46
 now know that parrots do not treat all information equally.
VetBooks.ir

Your story is unique and you should rely only on yourself to decide what is relevant or not in your relationship.

If your parrot is older, he may have accumulated in the past experiences and/or
learning methods with another person and this person was certainly very
different from you. Hence, it is possible that your bird will have trouble
adjusting to a new approach. Be understanding and give each other the time
needed to get it right.

47
VetBooks.ir

A fearful parrot will seek safety by landing on the highest perch available.

If your bird seems fearful or nervous, it may be wise to start your training
session in a location away from his cage, in a small room in the house where it
will be difficult for him to run away from you. If possible, choose a space
empty of any objects that could serve as a makeshift perch for the bird,
especially items high up such as curtain rods, tall dressers, ceiling lights, etc.
Beware of rooms where there are large windows or mirrors, your parrot may
get hurt trying to flee. The room must be adequately lit so that the bird can
easily follow your every move. Naturally, it is out of the question that you grab
or chase him during your initial contact, he would undoubtedly perceive you as
a predator, and you can say goodbye to trust!

48
VetBooks.ir

Your accessories should be in place before starting the training. Sessions should be short but challenging.

Also, you run the risk of upsetting your bird if you introduce new objects into
the room or the play area during the training sessions. So prepare and install
all the games and accessories you need before placing the bird on his training
stand or in the play area. Keep training sessions short, not more than ten
minutes at a time and, in the first few sessions, stop training before the parrot
sends you clear signs of fatigue, even if you have not yet reached the end of the
ten-minute period. The stress of the first few lessons is really exhausting for
the bird and it is certainly unnecessary to reach that stage. It is the frequency
and the regularity of the sessions that will bear fruit. Ideally, you should work
with your bird on a daily basis and even, why not, two or three times a day.

49
VetBooks.ir

By talking a lot and advising your parrot of your intentions, you greatly reduce the stress factor.

Before each handling, it is important to tell the bird your intentions, always
using the same request and repeating it often. Parrots literally hate to
misunderstand what is happening and above all to be surprised by impulsive
moves. Keep an open attitude towards your bird. You must progress a little
each day. If your parrot seems receptive, you can try to go beyond the
projected lesson plan, but keep in mind that you should stop any new approach
or any handling before the bird shows signs of discomfort.

50
VetBooks.ir

Completing a training session with a success and a reward will entice the bird to invest a little more next time.

Always finish a lesson on a positive note: either a successful move from the
bird or after providing a reward, and with lots of praise and congratulation.
The parrot should feel appreciated and thus keep a good impression of the ten
minutes spent in your company.

The goal of finishing on a positive note (and before the bird shows signs of
fatigue or discomfort) is to reduce his anxiety the next time you will ask this
request. He will be in a position to anticipate your request without
apprehension, he will know that he has nothing to fear, that the exercise is
actually quite nice since it is not so arduous and that it offers only positive

51
 consequences.
VetBooks.ir

Your socialization with respect to touching your bird should not be intermittent
or occasional; you must be constant. But you should never rush or force a
parrot during a training session; he will become fearful of you and
uncooperative to the idea of being handled. Understand that some birds will
embark wholeheartedly into this adventure, while others will be more
suspicious and will wait to see more... and this, regardless of the specie. It is

52
 important to follow dutifully the bird's rhythm if you want to achieve positive
VetBooks.ir

results. Of course, there are some generalities that can be noted about the
temperament of certain species, but keep in mind that each individual has his
own personality and, therefore a different capacity to adapt.

Some temperaments are more confident by their nature, regardless of the species. You have to adjust to your bird.

53
 I have known African Greys, specie known for its legendary distrust,
VetBooks.ir

demonstrating extreme excitement with tussle games, while cockatoos, specie

known for its overflowing sensuality, were fearful of being approached. What
cheers a parrot can literally terrorize another. It depends largely on the
temperament of the bird and his socialization history. You must respect the
approach that the bird is taking to the establishment of trust. It is all about time,
patience and perseverance. Keep in mind your goal: to win the trust of your
bird!

54
VetBooks.ir

Fearing Bites

While being bitten is considered in the avian folklore as a natural part of the
unavoidable constraints of living with a parrot, know that biting hard to
communicate (so hard it bleeds) is not normal behaviour. In the wild, even in
cases of protection of their territory, parrots bite only rarely with the type of
force and insistence that is known in a domestic context. As I mentioned in the
book "Beharioural Tripolarity of Parrots", artificial environments create
artificial behaviours, and biting to injure is one of those artificial behaviours
encountered unfortunately too frequently with parrots living in the company of
humans. If a parrot feels threatened and has no possibility of fleeing (trapped
in a cage, flight feathers trimmed, etc.), he will, even if born in captivity,
adopt the same protective strategies that a wild one would use by trying all of
the communication resources available to him before resorting to the act of
biting: first, furtive glances here and there searching for an escape option.
Then, if an escape is impossible, parades and threatening behaviours such as
ruffling feathers, vocalizations, dilated pupils, dances, nervous movements and
unequivocal body undulations. Finally, as a last resort if all else fails... ouch!

55
VetBooks.ir

The first injury inflicted on the human hand by a parrot is usually accidental,
that is to say he is afraid of the hand and/or refuses to Step up on it, he parades,
and if you misunderstand the message, he has no choice but to defend against
you! In this case you have lacked tact in your introduction and it may well be
that the parrot will want to re-offend next time. Your response at that moment is
critical:

1. If you remove your hand, you have taught the bird clearly a very effective
way to make you react in the desired direction, and especially about the use of
hands.

56
 2. If in addition to removing your hand, you yell or wreath in pain, you have
VetBooks.ir

just taught the bird how to activate the even more interesting response button,
so a good behaviour to keep in storage for later use. The parrot will
transform an automatic defence reaction (biting) as a means of effective
communication to signify his displeasure and his refusal to be touched or to be
forced to climb on your hand.

Not reacting to the first bite is still the best way to avoid a second.

3. Yet*, if the bird gets no response, no manifestation of a reaction and that,

casually, you continue your movement towards him, he will get... nothing at all
from the experience, or even better, he will understand that biting is not an
effective method to get the human hand to move away, and that if it does not
work, there is no reason to pursue this. Not easy to do I confess, but
nevertheless this stoic attitude on your part at the first bite is the only way to
ensure your companion does not incorporate this behaviour in his means of
communicating with you. Giving no attention at all to the behaviour (really
none) the first time will ensure that the bird will not care either. It will flow
like water on a duck's back.
* Note: It is important that everyone involved with the bird adopt exactly the same attitude. If you
are the only person not reacting to a bite and one or more family members provides a colourful
spectacle, Coco will retain that you are the only human around with a crocodile skin on which his

57
 bite produces no effect. For the others, however...
VetBooks.ir

You should know that all animal behaviours stem from either the instincts or
the learning. In the case of violent bites, we must ask ourselves: what did I do
to push my parrot to respond so brutally? If you think that the bird has acted
instinctively in order to defend himself, it is obvious that you will need to
change your approach. If, however, your parrot has a habit of behaving in this
way every time he does not want to... (pick an item of your choice), it is just
that for your bird biting with conviction has become an acquired means of
communication, and, if this behaviour has been acquired... you must ask
yourself from whom has he acquired it?

58
 Parrots bite violently when afraid, when surprised or... because they have
VetBooks.ir

incorporated this form of communication that makes you react so effectively.

As I mentioned, this is not a natural behaviour: either he has already
experienced this (with you or others) or he has had to use this unfortunate
approach incidentally for lack of other options (i.e. the inability to escape). In
all cases, the biting means that the human was not attentive to the bird or
ignored the ways he chose to communicate his discomfort with the situation.
Being attentive to your bird means observing his body language, focusing on
him, and above all refraining from forcing him to do what he does not want to
do. We, humans, are not very subtle in our approaches and often our actions or
movements are perceived by the parrot as similar to those of a predator. The
first bite always originates from a situation of surprise and fear in which the
parrot had the distinct impression that his life was at stake. So before seeking
physical contact with a bird that seems timid, it is important to make yourself
known and especially get him used to your presence and the existence of your
hands.

The best way to build confidence on both sides (human and parrot) is still... to
avoid being bitten! It goes without saying, right? You must develop your sense
of observation during the period of taming and learn to identify and understand
the emotional messages that your parrot sends you through the gesturing
language of his body.

If the bird seems in a very bad mood, this is obviously not the time to seek
physical contact: the index of unpleasant reactions to come is at the highest
level! If, at that time, the parrot manages to bite you (your fault), your flippant
ways may result, too easily, in the creation of a disastrous form of
communication; an approach that your parrot may find difficult to abandon later
on.

59
VetBooks.ir

Know that the less your friend manages to bite you, the less likely he is to use
this method to inform you of his moods. If your approach is respectful of his
emotional state and of his instincts, if you do not force him to act against his
will, if you are patient and take the time required to tame him, well... there will
be no reason for your bird to resort to acts of violence. You must not attempt to
dominate, but rather seek a real relationship of complicity, based on pleasant
and positive interactions with the parrot. If he bites you, do not say that he is
vicious or wicked, rather ask yourself what is wrong with your approach and
try to modify your introductions.

You will find a little further in this book techniques to avoid being bitten.
Several apply to older parrots, or parrots with a history of violent episodes in
the company of humans. Remember that these techniques are only intended to

60
 avoid being bitten. Under no circumstances should they be used excessively in
VetBooks.ir

order to dominate a parrot who refuses to have physical contact with you.
Anyway, you would have everything to lose and nothing to gain by doing so. If
the parrot shows animosity whenever you go near him, even when at a distance
in the room, it is perhaps not the time to try physical interactions. You first
need to desensitize him to your presence and to take the time to tame him by
talking and by offering only pleasant exchanges (treats, singing, dancing,
playing games staying at a distance such as "Fetch the ball", etc.) all this
without trying to touch him at the beginning of your relationship. The rest will
follow naturally and, soon, you will be able to see some very obvious changes
in his attitude.

61
VetBooks.ir

The Untouchables

Although most parrots seem to enjoy physical interactions with the people that
make up their social group, the fact remains that some individuals will always
be averse to such affectionate demonstrations, even from their favourite
person. Surprisingly, this kind of behaviour does not always stem from a
phobia or even a communication problem, and is not invariably the result of a
poorly socialized bird, abused, neglected or even captured in the wild; these
parrots do not seem to enjoy being touched by the human hand, a fact that does
not diminish their potential as a pet, nor hinders the development of actual
bonds.

62
VetBooks.ir

Certain parrots who refuse physical contact with humans are still able to show a strong attachment capacity.

It is very difficult to explain the reasons why a parrot rejects this type of
contact. According to many people who live in the company of these birds, it
seems that these untouchables behaved normally during the first months of
their life and, like virtually all baby parrots, appreciated this gentle form of
communication, but that their behaviour changed gradually around the age of

63
 the period of independence for no apparent reason. It would therefore seem
VetBooks.ir

impossible to predict which of these young, o so loveable parrots, will

become one of those untouchables as they age. Some species, like the African
Grey or the Asian parrots, seem more prone to develop this kind of behaviour,
but this is not the norm. I am only saying that this behaviour has been observed
more often in these species.

We must not anticipate the worst either. During my years of operating a parrot
refuge, I had at my disposal a very large sampling of parrots, and I have often
found this behaviour in birds, regardless of age or species. Birds that had
suffered great psychological stress: weaned too young, had received little or
no socialization, who had moved to another home very young or often, those
who had received little care and interactions in the first years of their lives or
who had lost this relationship once the pleasure of the novelty had gone for the
human, and of course, among those parrots with a past of physical abuse. In
these cases, the cause seems to be the loss of the trusting bond, or the lack of a
bond, as it has never had a chance to develop. Often, with a lot of time and
attention, a devoted person may arrive at establishing or restoring that trusting
bond, prerequisite to any act of taming, including, of course, the act of
touching.

I have often met some of these untouchables who nevertheless had very good
relationships with their living human companions. These birds were singing,
talking, doing a thousand and one idiocy, were comical and seemed to really
appreciate the presence of their human audience. And even though touches to
be body were not permitted with the hands, some of these so said untouchables
were not afraid to climb on the hand and willingly accepted this as a means of
transportation through the house. They climbed on the shoulders and were
willing to be caressed on the body with some parts of the human anatomy other
than the hands (face, lips, nose and feet). Some even accepted touches to the
beak and sometimes some head rubbing with the fingertips, but generally
refused to be petted on the body even by the hands of people familiar to them.

The absence of this intimate form of communication does not prevent the bird
from building strong ties, to establish a deep bond and to provide limitless
affection for his human darling. Some will even push the audacity to touching
with their beak the person's face for a kiss-kiss.

64
 I live this type of relationship with Etienne, an Amazon of at least fifty years of
VetBooks.ir

age. This bird landed at the Refuge in a terrible state, a victim of indescribable
abuses. Needless to say that the beginning of our relationship was fairly
complex; Etienne was very frightened and literally in panic mode each time a
man came in the same room. Naturally, it was totally out of the question to
attempt any physical contacts; any such attempt resulted in immediate reactions
that were most aggressive. It took months for the bird to accept my presence
near him or near his cage. When finally I felt him more relaxed in my company,
I started the taming by focusing on his gluttony and curiosity. Every morning, I
would hand-feed other parrots in front of him with a syringe. Naturally, my
parrots are fond of this kind of attention, as Etienne soon realized. Then one
day, as I was feeding the birds, Etienne openly expressed the desire to be part
of this process by making small sounds, stretching and pointing at the syringe
with his beak. I approached and, although still very apprehensive, he tasted the
warm food and fell under its charm.

65
VetBooks.ir

From that day on, a few beakful of warm food became part of his daily routine,
this allowed me to get a little closer to him and with his consent to boot.

Then, slowly, I began to touch his beak with my nose, with my mouth, he
learned to give a kiss and seemed to really enjoy this as he quickly learned to
ask for it. When I tried in a bold move to touch his beak with my fingers, the
reaction was instantaneous: he recoiled immediately. It took me several days
before being able to approach him with confidence; he would even refuse the

66
 warm food.
VetBooks.ir

Slowly, the fragile confidence returned and for a long time I dropped any
attempts to interact with my hands and concentrated instead on other forms of
tactile stimulation that involved only my face (nose, mouth, chin, cheek).

Meanwhile, Etienne learned to ask to dance, to sing (in his own personal way
of course). Etienne was very keen to participate in all activities not involving
any touching with the hands.

67
VetBooks.ir

Later on, I taught Etienne to climb on a perch to taxi to the room where the
activities were taking place with the other birds. Etienne does not fly because
someone broke one of his wings. Over time, he finally agreed to move from the

68
 perch to my hand for his daily commute, but still refused fiercely any attempts
VetBooks.ir

to move my hand near his body in any way. From the moment, he felt confident
enough to come on my hand, curiously he extended this new dynamic to other
women around me and against all odds... to my husband. Apparently, Etienne
no longer feared men!

After more than a year of repeated attempts, Etienne let me touch his beak with
my finger... finally! A great step forward for Etienne and for me. A window
was finally opening up. It took me about six months to be able to touch his
forehead and the top of his head, and just as much to scratch his neck and to
groom it with my fingertips. I have not since been allowed to go any further in
my advances. Ten years later, caresses are still limited to the beak, neck and
head area. But it does not matter, Etienne is a playful bird, curious, comical,
who like all parrots, seeks my presence and almost constant attention and
interaction, and can spend hours on my shoulder when I'm glued to my
keyboard taking this opportunity to improve my hairdo.

69
VetBooks.ir

Etienne is certainly in the category of the untouchables, but believe me, this
does not mean in any way that he wants to be ignored or left behind. Etienne
does not feel the need to be touched by humans to feel loved and legitimized in
his affections.

70
VetBooks.ir

Your Hands

Parrots seem to familiarize themselves easily to the human face; this explains
why they are rarely aggressive towards this part of our anatomy (rarely is not
never). Many parrots accept readily to be touched with the nose or the mouth,
but fear a more direct contact with the hands or the fingers. These birds do not
seem to always make the connection between the face and the hands. Hands in
some cases may appear to the bird as predatory, with nothing in common with
the familiar face, and they may not hesitate to defend themselves as they often
have no idea that they are in fact attacking part of the body belonging to this
face they have learned not to fear. In reality, they do not wholly comprehend
that they are attacking you!

You must help your parrot realize the connection between your hands and your
face. If he easily approaches your face for caresses or kisses (behaviour that is
often not uncommon), then place your hands on your face and keep on normally
caressing the bird with your face without attempting immediately to touch him
with the hands posed on your face.

71
VetBooks.ir

You must teach your bird that hands are the pleasant extension of your face.
You can also slowly desensitize Coco by offering treats with the tip of your
fingers. Move your hands slowly as near as possible to your face while
offering treats and constantly talking to the bird. With this approach, the parrot
will soon link your face to your hands and will be less fearful when you
progress to the next step that is touching him. Naturally, common sense dictates
that you should not approach your face to the parrot's beak if he is showing an
intense fear or demonstrating hostility towards you. Exercise good judgment.

72
VetBooks.ir

When the association has been made, you can gently attempt to touch your
parrot's beak with your fingertips, telling the bird: Touch the beak, followed
by a pleasant consequence (a treat) and no attempt to touch his body further.
After a few repetitions of this movement, your bird will slowly gain in
confidence, as he knows you will only touch his beak without trying to go
further. Then, when he no longer shows any signs of anxiety while your fingers
approach, and he seems to anticipate favourably this gesture (the gesture is
now associated with something pleasant), you move on to a new request (very
important), saying: Touch the forehead. You can then try to touch his forehead
with your fingertips. If everything goes smoothly, then move on to a new
request: Touch the head, before moving to the head and the neck. Later, you
will resume this exercise, gradually expanding your reach to different parts of
the bird's body. Do not forget to inform your companion every time you plan on
touching him in a new place by using a new request. He must be able to
anticipate the upcoming movement and this will prevent an unhealthy fear of

73
 new things.
VetBooks.ir

74
VetBooks.ir

Caresses and Hugs

Hugging and petting is not always perceived by parrots as an affectionate

gesture or even as a friendly one. The parrot does not instinctively recognize
these approaches as a demonstration of attachment. Be aware that in nature, the
only time a parrot is hugged or his body is held happens when a predator
pounces on him..!! So you will understand that instinctively Coco the parrot
will be suspicious of your emotional demonstrations. These types of
manipulation are not part of his genetic makeup but, fortunately, he has the
ability to adapt his instincts to new situations. Again, it is by using the right
approaches that the trainer makes a difference. Baby parrots are more
receptive to being held and respond better since they are programmed to live
crammed into a nest and in contact with other bodies.

75
VetBooks.ir

Parrots chicks like the feeling of being "snug" and the heat given off by another body.

However, from the moment a young parrot leaves the nest, he will have no
other similar physical contacts. So do not be surprised if at first, your bird
refuses to be embraced or to be stroked deeply over his body. He is not
pushing you away because he does not like you, but rather because this type of
contact is just unnatural. It is not a personal thing, and you should not perceive
it as such. The parrot is a wild animal that reacts according to the necessities
of his instincts. You will slowly and respecting his own pace teach him to
appreciate these touches, respecting his concerns with these new approaches.
It will be easier to teach a young parrot to enjoy these emotional
demonstrations. Nonetheless at adolescence, he will start shying away from
your cuddling attempts and, in adulthood, he may reject totally similar touching
attempts.

76
 Before giving up completely and labelling your parrot as an untouchable, take
VetBooks.ir

the time required to get your bird to accept and enjoy these affectionate
gestures so natural to us humans. It is amazing to observe a bird that for months
or even years refused all forms of intimate contacts, reassess the situation and
start to enjoy with confidence this type of touching... Often, parrots do change!
To do this, refer to the chapter "Trust and Intimacy" and follow each step
slowly. Be persistent, persuasive, and above all... constant.

77
VetBooks.ir

Note: Forcing your parrot to be caressed or hugged will damage the establishment of a trusting

78
 relationship between the two of you. You must first win the bird's trust and then, slowly, try to add
VetBooks.ir

more intimate touching to your relation. Don't rush, you have a lifetime ahead of you.

Jump Intermission

79
VetBooks.ir

Intermission - A One-Person Bird

Your parrot has developed a very strong attachment to you, he seems ready to defend your virtue
against all odds... and above all against those who try to interfere in this idyllic relationship he
believes he has with you. Your bird refuses any contact with a human that is not you, going so far
as standing up against them all. Coco has developed a territorial behaviour towards you and you
are told there is nothing to do, it is a behavioural problem in that he is a "one-person bird".

The parrot marked as a one-person bird does not have a behavioural problem. He is behaving
quite naturally based on his instincts. Be aware that sharing a loved partner is not part of his
genetic makeup. So he is not behaving abnormally, since all parrots imprinted to humans are above
all "one-person" birds. But the fact remains that the situation can be annoying for the family and
those close to the chosen one. Indeed, parrots are instinctively possessive, but indeed they can also
adapt their natural behaviour to domestic life, including a more familial dynamic in the company
of other humans. It is not always easy or immediate, but it is not in the realm of the impossible.

The parrot seems to have two types of attachment; 1- the bond created with the person that interacts
most with him, tames him and cares for him. 2- Love at first sight, sudden, immediate without reason.

However, the parrot can create different forms of attachment, in varying degrees and with different
individuals. In nature, the bond that the bird has with his loved companion is certainly not the only
type of relationship that he can develop with other members of his social group. The parrot has
other relationships of varying degrees with members of his community while maintaining a special
bond of affection with his betrothed... Some parrots will be faithful and constant in friendship while
others will have variable allegiance; some will be open to meeting others and some will live like
monks. Matter of temperament, I suppose...

If your bird seems to regard others as "persona non grata" when with you or worse in the same
room as you, the only way to resist this type of territorial behaviour is through positive socialization
from which the bird will get a sense of security in his relationship with you. A parrot that is not sure
of his status will be concerned to lose any advantages and is bound to reinforce his protective
behaviour. In addition, it is essential that no reward be provided to the bird when he becomes
territorial with other family members.

80
VetBooks.ir

Do not laugh this off and/or show pride (behaviour I have often observed): Coco will detect this
immediately and your attitude will reinforce his behaviour. You must take the required time to help
the bird develop close relationships with other family members who will necessarily be involved;
relationships that will be, of course, different from the one you have with the bird, and you will
need to respect the fact that the parrot will not necessarily allow the same level of familiarity he has
allowed with you in gestures and attitude. (See And the others?)

81
 VetBooks.ir

82
VetBooks.ir

Up.. ! Up.. ! Hey !

What's Up Doc ???
The first physical contact with a newly arrived parrot, whether a young bird,
an adolescent or an adult one, needs to be discreet and respectful, especially if
the bird sends obvious signals of fear. It is natural for a prey animal to be
fearful faced with a strange person. Any unknown person or animal can be seen
as a predator, since the parrot is (and will always be) a wild animal and that
his safety and survival is what matters over all other considerations.

83
VetBooks.ir

At this point we obviously need to use common sense. It may well be that your
new bird has no apprehension towards you and demonstrates great
friendliness. It would then be foolish not to take advantage of the opportunity
by acting as if he was a fearful animal. If the bird seems to accept your
attentions, you should not be shy in your approach... do not disappoint him!

84
VetBooks.ir

On the other hand, if he appears on his guard, the first physical contact must be
clearly tainted with moderation. Never attempt to hold his body, touch his
back, his chest, his legs or his beak unless you have first identified his limits.
These are very intimate gestures that are appropriate in a more personal
relationship, and this relationship, you must first begin to develop it.

85
VetBooks.ir

The Step Up Request

The Step Up request (or the Come on or just Up request, etc.) is entirely
appropriate as a starting point with a shy parrot. It involves nothing intimate
because the only physical contact is limited to your finger and the sole of the
foot of the bird.

The Step Up request (or Come On or just Up request, etc.) is a phrase that
serves to inform the bird of a specific intention on your part. At that precise
moment, it is to get him to climb on your fingers. This request is primarily a
means to bring the bird to you and must be taught as such. It should not be an
order or a command; it is a request that will become, in time and with a lot of
repetition, a code, possibly a social rule. With the Step Up, you invite the bird
to climb on your index or the upper edge of your hand (not the arm). You
inform him that you offer a perch, your finger or your hand for him to climb.

By simply notifying the bird, using selected words that need to always remain
the same so as not to have him confused, you avoid surprises and situations
where he does not know what to expect. The bird will respond positively to
this request not because of fear or control, but because he will have learned,
through habituation, to recognize and react in the expected way to it. Step Up
= Climb on the finger.

86
VetBooks.ir

You will primarily use the Step Up request to have the bird come to you. He must perceive agreeably this invitation.

Never forget that the parrot does not have a Step up button as standard
equipment and that during your first attempts, he may not understand clearly the
purpose behind the manoeuvre. Be understanding.

87
VetBooks.ir

The request to Step Up is the most important social rule that a well-brought up
parrot has to understand. This is really the basis of a good education. Keep in
mind that this is a rule and that all intelligent animals may one day or other
transgress rules... just for fun. And trust me on this issue, parrots are… very
intelligent animals!

So when you ask for a Step Up, the rule must be clear: climb on the finger
presented. And you have to persevere until the parrot climbs on your finger

88
 when asked. Never punish a parrot who refuses to comply and do not raise
VetBooks.ir

your voice either. You just repeat the request by insisting gently until he
complies. From the moment you ask, you should not change your mind or give
up because of the parrot's stubbornness; maintain your request by making it the
most inviting as possible. Your parrot must want to come to you.

Often, a well-socialized young bird or a bird that has lived with humans for a
long time and seeks their company, will climb on the finger without being
asked. On the other hand, it is also possible that he will not know why your
finger is there, and the sound of your voice requesting a Step Up clearly states
your intention to have him climb. The parrot, sitting comfortably on your
shoulder, will appreciate that you inform him clearly, using well-defined
sounds (the Step Up request) that your gesture is not a karate chop but the
signal that you are presenting your hand for him to climb on it. The message is
clearer for the bird when it is also requested vocally, especially if the parrot is
young or new to your social group.

89
VetBooks.ir

Teaching a Parrot to ''Step Up''

Teaching your parrot to step on your finger should become a natural thing that
is above all... enjoyable. Any initiatory training should take place in a relaxed
and playful atmosphere. At this moment, the parrot will be in training and it
should be remembered that training bears no resemblance to repression. You
must keep in mind that learning should be fun, or at least not too unpleasant for
your bird. You need to talk to Coco a lot, compliment him on his appearance
and especially congratulate him every time he takes a step in the right
direction. You can also use treats to have him come to you and to reward each
and every effort.

An inviting attitude will entice the parrot to come to you.

90
 Your parrot should not be allowed to come on your wrist or forearm if you
VetBooks.ir

have not authorized it. He must learn to climb on your finger: one finger
unfolded if you feel confident; if not, two or three outstretched fingers, the
thumb tucked into your palm.

For the first attempts, you must first define the flying off zone of the parrot.
You put him on a training stand in front of you and you walk gently in his
direction until he indicates that he is about to fly (body leaning forward with
movements of the wings, eyes glancing furtively seeking an escaping path).

The first times, you will need to remain outside of this area. You will work
with the bird on the training stand, respecting his flying off zone until he seems
less fearful of you. If he does not attempt to fly off when near, it is a very good
sign and you can get closer, up to a comfortable distance. However, if the
flying off zone is beyond a metre, it is a clear indication that he is not yet
ready to accept you near (you must have skipped a chapter). You will have to
backtrack and work again on the taming of your bird, getting him used to your
presence as you get slowly closer, without using any movements showing that
you intend to touch him.

Anyway, if your parrot is nervous or scared by the situation, nothing good will
come of this training exercise. While waiting for your feathered friend to get in
a better mood, continue to read this book. When the time comes, you will be
ready.

It is useless to place your index finger against a neophyte parrot and request a

91
 Step Up. He will not do it because he does not know at all what it means. He
VetBooks.ir

may confuse your request to make him climb on your finger with a friendly
finger and nail tasting! Jump Intermission

92
VetBooks.ir

Intermission - Delineate the Flying Off Zone

93
 VetBooks.ir

94
VetBooks.ir

Put the bird on a training stand in front of you and, in one continuous motion,
present your index finger horizontally, exercising a gentle and d-e-l-i-c-a-t-e
pressure at the junction of the lower abdomen and top of the legs while uttering
the magic words Step Up in a firm but inviting voice. You lower your finger so
as to position it within the bird's foot range: not too high, nor too far away, so
that it is easy for him to climb. Your pressure needs to be light and above all,
quick. If you continue to push the bird's body, he will instinctively hang on to
the training stand. If he does not climb, continue to lower your finger and touch
a toe, then raise the finger. If he still refuses, relax the pressure, start again
from the beginning repeating the Step Up request at each attempt. Faced with
your determination to continue, the bird will eventually get tired, give up and
often will just step up.

Now, remember we are not in the army. You are not General Mac Something
and you do not talk to Private Coco! There is no need to take a formal
authoritative tone to Step Up your parrot. To climb on your finger should
become something pleasant. Too often during consultations, I saw the soft and
cuddly mom, who was a moment ago making cooing sounds to her parrot,
change radically and adopt an almost military tone to Step Up her poor
lil'birdy. No..no..no...

Look at your bird right in the eyes when asking for the Step Up; not with fearful
eyes, controlling or mean eyes, but with an inviting look and a beautiful smile!
Move slowly and do not hurry your friend. The objective of this exercise is to
teach the bird to move towards you and climb on your finger, not to flee.

So with a continuous movement, the index in front of the bird at the height of
his lower abdomen, a delicate pressure and Up, he climbs on the finger...
Verbal reward: Yessssss good birdy! What a beautiful bird..good, good…
plenty of admiration... lots of cooing sounds. Coco has just accomplished a feat
that deserves to be highlighted and celebrated! Of course, remember to offer
your champion a reward/treat!

95
 VetBooks.ir

96
VetBooks.ir

Some parrots will climb immediately without any fear on the finger, others
will be more suspicious and will use one leg while the other stay dangling in
the air. Still others, resolutely unsure, will pose one foot on your finger while
continuing to hold on strongly to the stand with the other. As soon as the bird
poses a foot on your finger, you must raise your hand slowly so that the second
leg will be joining the first on your finger.

A parrot looking elsewhere with a dangling leg = I am not confident, I am trying to ignore what is happening.

97
VetBooks.ir

A foot that keeps grabbing the perch = I do not understand, I am afraid.

If the parrot won’t do it, it does not matter. Tell yourself that it is only the first
attempt and there may be several more before he grants your request. Do not
lose patience and repeat the whole process again, as if it was a new request,
without getting upset or making a show with an exasperated tone. Adopt a Zen
attitude! After the execution: treat and again, the rewarding whole shebang.
Jump Intermission

98
VetBooks.ir

Intermission - The Third Leg

If the bird approaches your finger with his beak, do not assume that he will necessarily use it to
bite you. It is likely that this is only to check the strength of the perch that is being presented. Often,
parrots use their beak as a third leg to climb. If the beak becomes pushy, simply fold your hand on
itself to disengage the beak, but above all else do not remove the hand. Your hand must remain a
solid and reliable perch for the bird. No parrot desires to climb on a perch that moves. You must
learn to trust your bird.

The parrot often uses his beak to climb on a perch...

99
VetBooks.ir

... he will use the same means to climb on your fingers. This is not an act of aggression.

100
VetBooks.ir

Stepping Down

Now that you have taken a few hours of his precious time to teach your parrot
to climb on your finger, here comes the time to ask him to Step down. Ignore
the silent sarcasm his eyes are sending you and concentrate on what you have
to do. *You ask the bird to climb up on his training stand with a vocal Step
Down request, a request he will perform much more readily. When having the
parrot Step Down, the training stand or perch should always be in front of the
bird at the height of his lower abdomen to allow him to step up on it (parrots
like to ascend, not to descend, their motto is: always higher). As soon as he is
poised to succeed or that he does it perfectly, reward and praise him verbally
with enthusiasm. By Jove, be expressive! Parrots love crazy people...

101
VetBooks.ir

* Note: Yes... yes... I know. I ask you to have your parrot step up to have him step down from your
finger... I believe we reach here the limit of my dialectic.

102
VetBooks.ir

From the Rear

You can also present your hand from behind the bird, if he is constantly trying
to bite you (fearful bird, frustrated or just a bad habit). The method is the same
as the presentation from the front, except that your hand is at the level of his
legs (no higher or lower) and touches the bird's toes. If necessary, you can
create a diversion at the front with your predatory hand. Many parrots are
more comfortable with the stepping method from behind and will continue to
use this approach even when they are very tame.

103
VetBooks.ir

It is best to teach the two methods (from the front and the rear) to your parrot.
Some day, you will find your bird in a bizarre posture and if familiar with both
methods you will be able to use one or the other to have him Step Up.

104
VetBooks.ir

Floor Routine

If you have just acquired an older bird, or a fearful or poorly socialized one,
with trimmed flight feathers as well, a feeling of panic could induce him to
launch into space and be seriously injured during your attempts at closeness.
To avoid accidents resulting from an escape response, you can start the Step
Up training from the floor (that way the bird will not fall from very high) or on
a mattress (a bed will do very nicely).

105
 VetBooks.ir

106
VetBooks.ir

Most parrots are not comfortable when on the ground (of course, there are
always exceptions). They will spontaneously seek a way to come up from that
floor where they face a thousand dangers. So why not offer your finger as a
perch whispering at the same time the magic words "Step Up?" Your bird will
be grateful! Have him Step Up from the floor. When perched on your finger,
raise your hand to about 8 inches/20 cm of the floor. Then put the bird back on
the floor saying Step Down. Repeat the whole nine yards, moving your hand
higher a little more each time. After several repetitions of the Step Up and Step
Down from the ground, you can then progress to a more adventurous position...
the training stand!

107
VetBooks.ir

The Art of Proper Perching

Now that your parrot has learned to step up on your finger when you ask for it,
he will quickly think of... moving from your hand to your arm to get
comfortable right next to you, near your face on this wonderful perch called the
shoulder. It is for your bird the best place to perch in your home, he feels good
and very close to you.

I do not think that it is a good idea to let your parrot install himself on your
shoulder at the very beginning of your relation. You do not know him much and
his reactions are not predictable. Do not take the risk of letting him snuggle in
your neck, close to your face, before he is well trained and has understood one
of the cardinal rules of domestic life: no biting to communicate and, of
course, the Step Up request (see more on this in prior text).

108
VetBooks.ir

A parrot sitting comfortably on your shoulder feels like he is sharing a common perch with your face.

Indeed, if you let the bird perch on your shoulder and you are unable to step
him up to get him down, because he does not know or ignores the Step Up
request, and that once he is glued to your shoulder, he refuses to budge unless
you remove your sweater, you are not out of the woods!

109
 A fearful and anxious parrot should not be allowed to perch near your face. He
VetBooks.ir

could in a moment of panic seriously injure you through a redirected (and most
of the time involuntary) bite. So the first thing to teach a parrot that climbs on
your hand is... to stay there! No mean feat, but not impossible either!

A parrot knows how to manœuvre when refusing to be dislodged from the shoulder he likes so much!

Your bird should not be allowed the freedom to walk on your arm ending on
your shoulder if you do not want him to. But, if you are at a stage of great trust
and want no compromise (that is to go about your business while keeping your

110
 hands free and your parrot on you), it would be better to put your bird on your
VetBooks.ir

shoulder yourself without letting him attain it, either by climbing or flying.
Being perched on your shoulder must remain, in some sense, a privilege for a
well-behaved and agreeable bird, not an entitlement; because he would
immediately consider this a rule to apply with other family members and even
guests (Aunt Rita may not appreciate...).

The highest position is always the most comfortable. The bird will not come down and then climb up to your
shoulder.

Keeping a parrot on your hand is not difficult. If you start from the premise that
parrots like to climb and not descend, by positioning your hand higher than
your elbow (at least at the beginning of the training), your bird will be less
likely to want to climb down and then move up your arm towards the shoulder.

111
 To reinforce your request, as soon as he is perched on your hand, your thumb
VetBooks.ir

comes to rest gently on one or both feet. You should not exert any pressure as it
may frighten the bird. This movement must not bear any resemblance to a leg
trap.

Your thumb resting on one of the feet of the bird indicates that he must remain on your hand.

Through this simple gesture, you tell the bird you do not want him to move
away. This light pressure creates a form of psychological barrier for Coco
who will be less tempted to climb your arm. As well, holding the bird this way
will prevent him from flying off when you transfer him from one place to
another; and if he is afraid and panics or if he wants to stupidly play the
acrobat, you can easily hold him and prevent him from falling to the ground,
head first.

112
 VetBooks.ir

113
VetBooks.ir

To caution about the shoulder or not is a matter of personal choice; you know
best your parrot and your own reactions towards him during unexpected
events. But one thing remains, it is important that he understands that when he
lands on you, you are the only person authorized to choose which part of
yourself will be accessible. It is your body after all...!

114
VetBooks.ir

The Staircase

A good exercise to maintain the bird's habit to climb on your finger when you
ask him is the staircase game. Have your parrot step up on the finger of your
right hand, and then, present your left hand at the level of his lower abdomen
and have him Step Up. Then, present the right hand again, followed by the left,
and so on, as if the bird ascended a staircase. Always have a cheerful and
good-natured tone, all this must take the form of a game for your bird, some
nice time spent in your company. The objective of this game/exercise is to
reinforce and confirm the bird's understanding of the Step Up request, to break
the monotony of the Step Up exercise and psychologically prepare him to take
on some new and fun challenges with you. Never use the exercise of the
staircase to discipline your parrot, this exercise must at all times remain in the
domain of games and be fun.

115
 VetBooks.ir

116
VetBooks.ir

A Foot on Each Hand

All parrots like to have control on where they pose their feet and they love
when we allow them to place one foot on each hand. This position offers a
wide range of opportunities for pleasant manipulations and parrots appreciate
games such as Playing with one finger, and then your other finger, as well as
Toppling to one side or the other from this position. If some parrots feel more
comfortable in this position, then why not?

117
 VetBooks.ir

118
VetBooks.ir

There is no law restricting the use of both hands to play with a bird! However,
if Coco decides to do Cirque du Soleil's tumbling on your fingers, better keep
his feet firmly (not strongly) under your thumb to prevent an unfortunate
incident. Jump Intermission

119
VetBooks.ir

Intermission - Left- vs. Right-Handed

It is interesting to note that many parrots are left-handed (or rather left-footed) and, in some
species, the ratio approaches curiously the proportion of right-handed humans. Therefore, most
parrots (left-footed) climb very easily on the right index finger presented to them. On the other
hand, it can be very surprising to have to deal with a right-handed parrot (of 14 parrots at home, I
have only one right-handed and it is Gazou, an African Grey). We must then reposition the angle of
presentation of the hand to facilitate the climbing as apparently, the hand of a right-handed human
normally constituted is almost tailor-made for the left-handed parrot... Is your parrot left- or right-
handed?

Can do…

120
VetBooks.ir

Much better!

121
VetBooks.ir

Conjuring Bites

Naturally, not all parrots will meekly accept to negotiate with you. A fearful or
poorly socialized parrot, or one who has been around the block may prove
very uncooperative in the face of your efforts of education, and often, he will
show it by deplorable attempts at biting. There is no question here of
dominating the bird, but he should still not be allowed to victimize you either!
The goal in these cases aims at not being bitten in order not to lose your strong
composure and also especially avoid giving bonus points to the bird.
Remember that the less he manages to bite you, the less he will be inclined to
try.

Do not tempt the devil: if your parrot seems very excited, if he dances like
Fred Astaire while vocalizing his biggest birdy hits, feathers in the wind and
the crest up in the air, if his pupils expand at the speed of a camera lens and his
tail looks like a fan... better not interrupt and wait for the performance to end
before you present your hand for any request or offer. The parrot is a highly
excitable animal that, in these moments, could seriously hurt you, and this
without meaning to... but it still hurts! Following here are some thoughtful
suggestions that I am sure will help you avoid some of the less pleasant
consequences of Coco's caustic mood!

122
VetBooks.ir

To interrupt Coco in full rehearsal is also to expose your fingers to retaliation.

1. The predatory hand: the parrot is targeting (focusing) on the area that he
plans to bite. The objective becomes then to distract him from his goal that
nine times out of ten is your hand. You may unfocus your bird by whistling,
singing or murmuring, but often this strategy is quickly averted by the
knowledgeable parrot. It is best at that moment to change your approach to
avoid the aggravation of a corrosive contact with Coco's beak. You have two
hands and the parrot one beak, nature has well provided, don't you think? So
use this slight numerical advantage to protect yourself against his beak. It is
important to learn to work with your entire body when dealing with your
parrot.

If your bird is very shy or so surly that you anticipate a good crunch, use your
right hand to do a Step Up, gently pushing the bird's belly, and your left hand,
your predatory hand, as a diversion near his head.

123
VetBooks.ir

The predatory hand is the free hand that serves to divert your bird’s attention
by gently shaking it near his head at the height of the eye. Do not under any
circumstances hold his body with that hand. This approach, which draws the
prey instinct of the bird, gives you the time and the leisure (a few seconds) to

124
 use your other hand to have the parrot Step Up. Faced with an unknown
VetBooks.ir

situation, the bird will naturally stretch himself taller. As he observes the two
hands at once, he will focus on the one at the eye level and step up (often on
his own) on the hand that appears to offer added height. As soon as he is
perched on your finger... provide verbal and gustative rewards. I suggest you
give him a treat to occupy his beak... Understood?

125
 VetBooks.ir

126
VetBooks.ir

If the simple act of moving the hand near his head is not enough, you can still
use your predatory hand to lightly touch his tail (do not pull the tail). During
the time it takes the parrot to look at his rear and see what happens behind, you
will with your other hand gently push your finger up to his abdomen and
encourage him to climb. Do not forget the treat!

2. Open hand as a stop sign: Now that you've managed to have your bird
climb on your finger (on the right hand), he may have the unpleasant feeling of
having been had and may still decide to go on the offensive from this strategic
situation. At that moment he will look intently at your hand (where he wants to
bite). You have two seconds to react. As soon as he moves to bite, you make a
barrier with your left hand against his beak (without pushing). Your hand must
be open with fingers pulled back a little as if you were indicating a stop, the
inside of your hand offers a smooth surface to your parrot's beak, leaving him
with no place to bite. You then leave your hand so positioned and you place the
bird on the first available perch* (back of the chair, sofa, table, etc.). Provide
rewards for good behaviour... as good behaviour should always be rewarded.
Even though it was somewhat against his will... the good news is that Coco did
not bite.

127
VetBooks.ir

* Note: Do not take the time to bring your bird to his perch or his cage. The manœuvre must be
completed almost instantaneously. The bird should immediately realize that he did not bite you and
that the exercise resulted in a nice reward.

128
VetBooks.ir

3. Dropping off the bird to avoid difficulties: if following your request, your
parrot climbs on your finger almost spontaneously, and once the surprise
dissipated shows some animosity and that, moreover, seems to intensely stare
at the hand on which he is perched, then, casually and with a perfectly
detached attitude, drop him gently but immediately on the perch closest to you
(the back of the chair, the sofa, the table, etc.). Continue to speak to him, eyes
firmly looking into his eyes. You can, if you feel the need, create a diversion
with your free hand. Do not take the time to look for a place to drop your bird;
if there is nothing available on the spot that resembles a perch, place the bird
quickly, but calmly, on the floor (Step Down).

If your parrot seems to focus on your hand during training...

129
VetBooks.ir

... put him down quickly to avoid unnecessary unpleasantness.

You must act quickly, so your parrot does not have the opportunity to bite you.
When released on the floor, repeat the Step Up exercise... all of this with a
smile. The parrot should not feel fear or hesitation on your part. The essential
is that he was not able to bite you. Jump Intermission

130
VetBooks.ir

Intermission - The Nibbling

The parrot is naturally inquisitive. The nibbling and chewing of the fingers are part of the natural
social interactions of the parrot and have as sole objective the strengthening of the "particular"
bond between you and him. Do not scold your friend for this kind of behaviour as it is a gesture of
openness and often an invitation to intimacy. Teach him rather the level of beak pressure you are
willing to tolerate on your skin.

131
 VetBooks.ir

132
 To do this, simply remove your hand when the pressure becomes too strong and say clearly but
VetBooks.ir

gently to the bird: "Too strong!" Then, you resume the game offering him once more your fingers.
He will soon learn to make the difference and to adapt to your sensitivity. Take your hand away
every time the enthusiasm of your parrot reaches the limit you have set and when the pressure of his
beak becomes more insistent. Your bird will quickly learn what your tolerance level is and how far
he can go before you withdraw your hand and stop playing.

133
VetBooks.ir

Use of a Perch for the More Difficult Parrot

Sometimes, with a bird that has been poorly socialized, has withstood bad
handling experiences, been cruelly captured in the wild, or worse, who has
suffered episodes of violence by humans, the fear of the hands is very strong.
These fearful parrots can demonstrate great brutality towards the hand that is
presented. Remember that during those moments, it is the prey instinct that
resurfaces and pushes the bird to fight to protect his life (he does not yet know
that you are nice). A parrot in a state of panic can cause very painful injuries
and, of course, the bigger the bird the more it hurts! No need to draw you a
picture...

134
VetBooks.ir

In these situations, protect your hands and take the time required to familiarize
the bird to your presence and, in due course, when he seems more comfortable
with you, present a wooden perch rather than your tender skin. Ideally, it
would be better to work with the bird outside of his cage, leaving the door
open until he comes out of his own. A parrot that is scared of getting out of his

135
 cage is not ready for training. Do not skip and return to the section in the book
VetBooks.ir

on taming. You attract the bird with your treats and a soft voice. Letting a bird
come out of his cage on his own may take time, a few days to weeks. Do not
hurry, you have a lifetime ahead of you. Do not force him out with a perch or
by rocking the cage side to side. Let him come of his own accord when he feels
more confident. Keep talking to your parrot and take the time to get to know
him by staying close to his cage. Encourage him to put his beak out by placing
favourite treats in an accessible area outside of the cage, and when he starts to
come out on his own, you can gradually move the treats further away so that he
ventures a little further each time. During this period, do not attempt to touch or
grab him. Your bird must learn to trust you and accept your presence even
when he is outside the cage. Stay out of his flying off zone; do not move but
talk to him.

A parrot not socialized, that is afraid of hands will be slightly more

comfortable with a perch. It is important here that the manœuvre be executed in
a positive way. The fact that you feel more confident because you present a
perch instead of your hands does not mean that you need to intimidate or stalk
the bird with the perch, either in his cage or outside of the cage. It is certain
that if you chase him, he will eventually climb on the perch, but he will also
associate training to a bad experience and it will be difficult to develop a
relationship based on trust. Remember that chasing the bird is a predatory
gesture that can result in the fear of the wooden perch and of the handler of the
perch, meaning... you! The use of a perch is only one step in the process of
taming your parrot and is intended only to avoid the fateful bite.

136
VetBooks.ir

It may take several days before the bird approaches the wooden perch.

137
VetBooks.ir

Let him touch it and explore the perch at leisure before attempting to go further.

You start by setting the bird used to the perch by placing it over his cage, quite
away from him. Then, when he does not seem to care (which can take from one
to several days), you bring it closer always talking softly. You do not touch the
bird with the perch, especially his body. When he is comfortable with the
perch (he does not react at all or touches the perch with his beak on his own),
you move it closer to the bird and, slowly, you make the bird touch it with his
beak several times. It is important here that the tone of your voice is
reassuring; offer a reward to the parrot every time he moves towards the perch
or touches it (even if it is to bite it). Continue to offer rewards whenever the
bird makes a move towards the perch. This exercise can also take several
days. When the parrot touches the perch with his foot, provide a treat to
indicate that he is doing well and to encourage him to climb on it. When he
rests his two feet on the perch, it is important not to move it and to let your
parrot get down on his own. Reward your parrot often. Have him redo the
process again on his own: climb, walk and get down. It is only after several

138
 repetitions, when your parrot no longer shows fear, that you move the perch
VetBooks.ir

slightly while he stands on the perch.

139
 VetBooks.ir

140
 If your parrot seems anxious on that moving perch, let him climb down but do
VetBooks.ir

not forget to reward him for the effort.

Repeat as many times as needed by letting your parrot each time a little longer
on the perch until he feels comfortable with the moving perch. Then you can
move the bird using the perch from the cage to the perch and from the perch to
the training stand.

To date, all we have accomplished is to desensitize the parrot to the perch, it is

not training per say. The bird was acting on his own, first because of curiosity,
then by interest (treats) and finally for the pleasure of the adventure since he
did not fear the perch or its movements any longer.

141
 VetBooks.ir

142
VetBooks.ir

For the Step Up training using the perch, the principle is the same as with the
hand: you present the wooden perch in front of the bird and you ask for a Step
Up, then you push d-e-l-i-c-a-t-e-l-y at the underbelly of the bird. He climbs on
the wooden perch and then, oopssss... adding a slight variation, you slowly
move the hand holding the perch on which the parrot is, turning on yourself
until you are back to the training stand. At this point, you use your body like a
barrier between your parrot and his training stand to prevent him from jumping
or flying back. You bring the perch with the bird closer to your body (not too
much though) and you speak in a soft and soothing voice to your poor confused
darling. You praise and reward him for his temerity and slowly return him to
his training stand saying Step Down!

Gradually, as you have the bird climb on the perch, you take him a bit
everywhere in the house; short distances at first until you can make a full visit
of the place. Time spent on the moving perch is getting longer and the bird
begins to appreciate the activity that is becoming more exciting every time by
the extent of his explorations. You repeat the exercise with the wooden perch
several times (or for several days depending on the response of the bird) and,
when the parrot climbs without hesitation on the wooden perch and seems to
happily anticipate the exploration tour around the house, you are ready to move
from the perch to... your finger.

143
VetBooks.ir

Now that your parrot seems very comfortable with the wooden perch, you can
go a step further. You take the bird from his cage using the perch; then from the
perch to the training stand; and from the stand to the perch; at last, finally, from
the perch to your finger... (phew!) with the same method described before. The
bird will be less fearful to go from the wooden perch to your finger than if he
was going directly from his cage or from his training stand to your finger.

Then, the same method, you turn your back to the training stand to block any
return attempt; congratulations and rewards are required, and right after you
return him to the training stand. You repeat the exercise by having your parrot
stay on your finger longer and longer.

Last step, when your parrot passes easily from the wooden perch to your
finger, you repeat the exercise from the training stand, but this time you skip the
perch step and you have him climb (Step Up) from the training stand to your
finger. Later, when your parrot feels comfortable with the Step Up from the
training stand to your finger, you can do the exercise directly from the cage.

144
VetBooks.ir

Using a Towel for a Very, Very Difficult Parrot

It may be necessary in the case of a very, very difficult parrot to have to use
more direct methods. The objective is not to control the bird or to render him
submissive, but to let him know (a little despite himself) of some of the
benefits associated with domestic life. The parrot is often afraid of what he
does not know: you, your hand, the room in which he is located, etc., and it
may take a long time (perhaps forever) before he is comfortable with an
unknown situation if you do not insist a little to make him more aware of the
composition of his environment.

A parrot can easily restrict his territory (for life) to his cage if he has never
known anything else and be resistant to any form of changes if not challenged
to come out of this attitude. Before trying anything, you must absolutely take the
required time to familiarize him to your presence (sometimes several months).
He must know you and not be afraid of your presence near him.

The method of the towel is to be used as a last resort: the bird stubbornly
refuses to leave his cage, refuses to climb on your finger or a perch after
several attempts (here, read many months). A parrot who is afraid, who is
nervous or aggressive due to a lack of socialization or because of previous bad
experiences will not necessarily seek new experiences, he needs to be shown
that he will not be hurt, that the world outside his cage is not threatening. He
will not attempt to expand his domain on his own. He needs a helping hand.

145
VetBooks.ir

You may have to use some persuasion when facing a parrot that limits himself in his interactions, often only
because of fear.

The method of the towel is used to convince the bird of the validity of our
approach and to demonstrate our good intentions. Contrary to popular belief,
this is not a violent method when used in the context where the parrot refuses
any form of experimentation outside the cage territory. What would seem to
me to be really counterproductive would be to force domestication on the
parrot while leaving this gregarious animal confined in a fearful way against
his environment and the individuals who are in it without trying everything in
our power to get him out of his isolation. To me, that would be true emotional
abuse.

146
 I have often used this method, and had a very high success rate, with wild
VetBooks.ir

imported parrots or those with no socialization experience. These birds are

really afraid and need to be convinced black and white that no danger awaits
them outside of the cage. It is when the parrot realizes that there is no threat
and also that there are a lot of advantages to further the exploration of his
territory (your home), that he will be open to new experiences and discover
their benefits.
Rules of the Method of the Towel:

It is important to be calm and relax.

Talk a lot to the bird.
Move slowly around him.
Do not chase the bird in his cage (if possible).
Act efficiently, quickly and without nervousness.
Do not push on the bird and use/create no pressure, the method should be
soft.
You must not hurt the bird.

To tame this kind of bird, one has to work away from his cage and to do this,
most of the time, you have no choice but to take the bird directly from the cage.

147
VetBooks.ir

Taking the Bird from his Cage

The objective here is not to restrain the bird but to get him neatly out of the
cage where he is confining himself and to deposit him in a place far enough
from it on a training stand or on your finger. You slide both hands under a
towel as you enter the cage and you wrap the bird on each side of his body (as
you would a young child being taken out of the bath). You watch out for the
position of the wings and you nestle the bird gently against your body, his face
against your chest, protecting this sensitive part of your anatomy with a section
of the towel.

148
 VetBooks.ir

149
VetBooks.ir

You must not make any pressure or sudden movement. You drop his feet on the
training stand or slide your hand under the towel and put his feet on your finger.
You gently pull away the towel. If you deposit the bird on the perch, you back
up a little so that your proximity does not create panic and that he does not
launch himself into the air.

150
 VetBooks.ir

151
VetBooks.ir

If you have decided to install the parrot on your finger, gently pull away the
towel, saying the magic words Step Up. Continue to talk to him, while mentally
preparing your left hand as a stop signal, ready to react to a bite. Then you
deposit the bird calmly on the training stand. Praise, rewards and hallelujahs!

152
 Once installed on the perch, get the bird used to your presence without the protection afforded by his cage. Move
VetBooks.ir

slowly and constantly talk.

The bird must remain as little as possible in the towel. I repeat: this is not a
restraint but a way to pass the bird from point A to point B while preventing
any injury (to the bird because of panic) and the inconvenience of a good bite
(to yourself). Now that he is installed on his perch, outside of his cage, you
must get him used to your presence. Do not attempt to get the bird to Step Up
immediately; he has been through enough emotions for a day. Talk to him,
slowly move around him, offer treats with your hand while respecting the
flying off zone and do not attempt (of all things) to touch him.

Repeat the exercise for a few days without forgetting to request the Step Up if
you decide to place him on your hand when out of the towel. When your parrot
seems relatively comfortable out of his cage and does not seem to care about
your presence around him, you can begin to slowly request the Step Up on your
finger or on a perch depending on his response.

153
 VetBooks.ir

154
VetBooks.ir

Surprisingly, once outside of his cage, the odds are that your parrot will have
an all-new different attitude towards you and may even happily cooperate in
his training. In many cases, all you needed to do was to get him out of his cage!

155
VetBooks.ir

"Patience and the passing of time do more than force nor rage."
- Lafontaine

You repeat the exercises that seem to suit your parrot several times a day and
always as a game, not forgetting to properly reward success. You have him
practice the step up in different situations: from his cage, on his cage, from
higher places: above a door or furniture and in different parts of the house.

156
 VetBooks.ir

157
VetBooks.ir

You will avoid creating habits in your step up routine simply by asking to Step
Up from the front, from the rear and by regularly changing hands so that the
bird learns to climb indifferently on the right hand or the left hand.

If the parrot is in his cage, you must teach him not to confuse your request with
an invasion of his territory. To ensure this, never forget to state your intentions
before doing the Step Up. You open the door of his cage and you announce
your program by saying, for example: Come on we are going to the kitchen...
adding a firm Step Up with an enthusiastic tone while presenting your finger.
Notified of your approach, even if he does not understand completely the
meaning and the pleasant tone of your voice, he will feel less or not at all
threatened.

158
VetBooks.ir

Avoid creating habits by teaching the bird to step up alternately on the left hand and right hand.

Talking to your parrot a lot is always beneficial in all circumstances. When in

doubt, always say a little something, it cannot hurt and most importantly, in
many cases, the tone of your voice can quickly defuse a situation that may be
festering. Your voice is your trump card.

159
VetBooks.ir

Be Constant

For your request to be clear to the bird, it has to be well formulated and above
all constant. The request must not be one day Step Up, and Come On the next
day! You must always use the same sounds (words) and pronounce them in a
clear voice that is not confusing. After a moment, some parrots will anticipate
your request upon presentation of your finger and will act before you even say
it.

On the other hand, other goofs will always need you to verbalize the Step Up
to be confirmed of your intentions. For example, Lili, my little Blue-Front
Amazon, does not Step Up until she hears the Step Up sound! If I do not
verbalize my request, she grabs the finger that I present to play or to use as a
stimulation to regurgitate... this finger that excites so much her imagination...

160
 With Miss Lili, the request must never leave room for interpretation!
VetBooks.ir

161
VetBooks.ir

A Minimum of Free Will

Unless absolutely necessary, for example you leave for work or cook hot food
and want to return the bird to his cage, always make sure that your parrot is not
absorbed in an activity (playing, grooming, sleeping, etc.), before disturbing
him with an importune Step Up. Your parrot is not a toy available for your
selfish pleasure. He has the right to have his own activities or moods and he is
perhaps not willing to come and entertain you just because you feel like it at
that moment!

When the situation is not imperative, I prefer to give my own birds the freedom
of making the choice to come or not on my hand. In this case, I use another
request: Are you coming? presenting my finger in the same way as with the
Step up. But I give him the choice to decide whether or not he wants to come

162
 with me.
VetBooks.ir

Through time, repetition and habituation, he will realize that he has the choice.
If he wants to, he will willingly climb on my finger and the deal is done.
Otherwise, if he does not want my company, most of the time he will push back
nicely my finger with his beak. This is not an act of aggression: in the bird's
mode of communication, it means: I do not want to come, I'm busy with other
things or simply, I'm not interested.

The respectful human will accept the choice of the bird and remove his hand
without further ado, even though a little disappointed. Although it is very rare
that a parrot will not be willing to spend time with his human darling, the
situation is not impossible and, when it arises, it is up to the human to accept it

163
 with good grace.
VetBooks.ir

164
VetBooks.ir

Ways to Misuse the Step Up

Repetitive step up: "Step up ... Step up ... up ... up ... I said ... step up" All
these step up will amuse your bird that, ironically, will never understand the
purpose of the manoeuvre or what you expect.

Military step up: Too authoritarian and aggressive. The bird will not
understand your intention to teach him a concept if your tone is hard, formal or
repressive. The left brain will inevitably take over and the parrot may be upset
and even panic in front of your changed attitude.

Neglected step up: You look away or do something else and at the same time
you ask for the step up from your bird. Realize that he is likely to look
elsewhere too since he cannot guess that you are talking and addressing this
request to his humble self. You should always watch your parrot when you talk
to him.

165
VetBooks.ir

The-bird-that-flies-and-who-makes-you-run-everywhere-in-the-house step
up: This type of step up is very popular and widespread among the average
''domesticated'' parrot. This method is very rewarding for the bird that makes
you run around the house, then lands for a few seconds and flies off the moment
you request the step up. Very interesting exercise when you have nothing better
to do, but very frustrating to the person that is late and hurrying.

If your parrot likes to turn into a Road Runner, taking off every time you
formulate the step up request, avoid embarking on his game by pursuing him
throughout the house (this is a friendly and disinterested advice). Here, it is
essential to know that parrots living in our homes do not have a great flight
autonomy and that they tire quite quickly because of lack of exercise. That's the
up side.

166
VetBooks.ir

The smart thing consists of preventing the bird from landing by using a perch or
a towel that you place near him each time he stops to catch his breath. You do
not hit him with the perch and you do not catch him with the towel; the goal is

167
 to prevent the bird from stopping... that's all. And to do so before he has had
VetBooks.ir

time to rest. As he gets exhausted, he will start to fly lower and lower to
finally finish his flight on the floor or an accessible perch near you. You then
offer your finger at the bird calmly, gently repeating the step up request with a
beautiful smile adorning your face and have him climb on it. You are persistent
but calm and not at all upset... at least in appearance! From this point, your
message is clear to the bird: if I request the step up, no matter what you do,
you will end up willingly or unwillingly on my finger!

You should not run after your parrot and should not adopt an irritated, angry or
predatory attitude. We are talking about education, not terrorism. Coco simply
must understand that it is useless to fly away, that you will always have the last
word, at least when the step up request is concerned. Being constant and
smiling are proper conducts, especially in these cases.

Too high or too low staircase: It serves no purpose to present a wavering

finger at the bird's face. First, it is impossible for him to lift his leg that high,
and second, your message will be far from clear to your bird. What bug bit my
human today? What is he trying to tell me? Does he want me to taste his
finger, and that I inspect the cleanliness of his nails? Or is he offering me a
new toy to chew on...? In this situation, do not ask me why, the last option
always seems the most interesting for the bird... Spread the word!

168
VetBooks.ir

The parrot cannot understand your intention to have him climb on the perch (finger) if you present it at the height
of his face.

There is no point in presenting a finger too low, for example below the perch,
to a parrot. First, as I already mentioned, parrots do not like to descend, so he
will not descend on your finger. In addition, it is highly likely that the message

169
 received by the bird at that moment will be: I fear your beak, I am afraid that
VetBooks.ir

you will bite me. This is a great way to empower Coco's crushing beak!

170
 VetBooks.ir

171
VetBooks.ir

Despite his goodwill, the parrot cannot accede to your request if the finger is offered in a grotesque manner. If you
fear your parrot’s beak, do not try the step up. Keep this exercise in taming for later, when you feel more confident.

Unstable step up: If you constantly doubt your parrot's intentions and
automatically remove your hand every time he uses his third leg (the beak) to
check its stability, do not be surprised if he stubbornly refuses to put his foot
on your hand, or that he tries to grab, by using the required pressure, this
unstable perch to hold it in place so that he can climb.

If you send signs of fear to your bird, it will be impossible for him to trust you.
For a parrot to develop his desire to come to you, you have to show that you
want him to come to you and... it is certainly not by removing the bridge
between the two of you that you will succeed in convincing him!

No ... no ... step up: It is a human behaviour that I often encounter during

172
 consultations. Not very clear as a request. If the bird looks away or tries to
VetBooks.ir

play with your ring or wristwatch, your sole response must invariably be to
repeat the request. Do not precede the Step Up by a No. Logically, why should
you expect a parrot to understand a request preceded by an interdiction???

Broken wrist step up: Tsst...! Tsst...! It is on your finger that he has to climb.

Hidden hand step up: Generally doubled with the broken wrist. The sleeve of
your sweater completely covers your hand and you present the wrist.

Message sent to the bird: I am very afraid of your beak.

Message received by the bird: Me, I am terrible!

173
VetBooks.ir

Who got the idea that wool can protect your fragile skin from the beak of a
stubborn and resolved parrot? An iron glove perhaps!

174
VetBooks.ir

Trust and Intimacy

Gentle Manipulations
Trust and intimacy go hand in hand, whether in the human world or the bird
world. You must develop the bird's confidence towards you and you also have
to learn to maintain your good standing.

175
VetBooks.ir

If one of the protagonists is suspicious of the other or uncomfortable, there will

be no room for the development of an intimate relationship so essential to the
psychological needs of the parrot.

176
VetBooks.ir

The Initiation

Now your parrot has taken a big step, he has learned to come on your finger
without hesitation and to stay there. It's good but it is still not blind faith. If
your parrot seems open to the idea of being touched, you must continue to
develop his trust by some varied and secure manipulations so that he no longer
has any hesitation to come to you to be handled, whether to check his general
condition, that of his wings, to file his nails, to put a harness or simply to just
take the time to share some hugs and cuddles.

177
 VetBooks.ir

178
VetBooks.ir

Naturally, you will have to begin with teaching the bird the pleasure of being
touched all over his body. It is important to begin the initiation to the touch in a
room away from the cage where he cannot see it. Never work with your parrot
near his cage. At the slightest contrariety, and there are many during the
learning period, he will certainly seek to return there and may even become
aggressive because his desire to return to the safety of his home will be too
strong.

You can also wait for a more favourable moment to closeness, such as the
evening or at dusk, before embarking on the path of caresses and gentle
manipulation with your bird. Most parrots are diurnal birds and will begin to
feel the fatigue of the day and to become calmer when the light fades. In
addition, as soon as night starts to fall and darkness settles, parrots feel more
vulnerable because of poor night vision and therefore seek to move or flee less
their only source of security available, meaning you. It is a soft method of
teaching your bird that it can be pleasant to be caressed.
Note: Let me clarify that in this initiatory approach to caresses, the word darkness means half-light.
There is no question of using the full darkness to catch a parrot reluctant to be approached or
handled. When working with a parrot, you should always do it in a well-lit area, never in the dark.
The darkness is the night, and the night is for sleeping. Your bird should never ever feel threatened
when in the dark; the quality of his sleep depends on it. Low light lends itself well only to quiet
intimate moments.

During the first physical contacts, you must be very Zen-like, in a peaceful
state of mind, positive and above all, very sensitive to the likely reactions of
your winged friend. It is important to keep talking in a soft, calm and
reassuring voice. Your parrot is extremely empathetic and it is the tone of your
voice and your attitude that will soothe and help it to relax. You must learn to
adjust and be receptive to your bird's emotional responses. Remember that you
must always inform your parrot of your intentions, so that he learns to
anticipate your actions.

179
VetBooks.ir

Feathers Not Hairs

Parrots are not dogs and therefore do not cuddle as such. They also do not
interpret affectionate gestures the same way we do. Their caresses are more
akin to feather grooming. They scratch the bottom of the feathers up to the skin
returning slowly to the end of the quill.

Parrots show their affection by gently grooming the feathers of their partner.

Using the tip of the beak and with infinite delicacy, they clean the feathers of
their companion, especially in the head, neck, face area (cheeks and around the

180
 beak) and under the beak. Most parrots do not easily appreciate getting petted
VetBooks.ir

with the full hand as do dogs or cats. In many cases, to be petted on the back is
rather akin to an act of predation; predators coming from above grip the back
of their prey. You must first take time to desensitize the bird to such touching as
it is not natural for him.

Caresses on the back can take the form of a powerful irritant to the bird not familiar with this kind of touch.

It is best to touch your parrot using your fingertips at first, then to gently
introduce the whole hand with your caresses and touches.

181
VetBooks.ir

And the head... and the feet... and the tail...

The initiation begins with the head. Most birds like to be scratched on top of
the head and neck region. This step should not pose too many problems. You
install the parrot snugly on your knees, in a soft light that lends itself well to
the situation and you seduce him by talking calmly. After having informed your
parrot of your intention with a little: Come for a little scratch (I hear someone
laugh... This is what I tell my birds!), you approach your hand slowly and you
begin to gently caress his forehead and the top of his head with your fingertips.
If your parrot seems receptive, you can begin to gently groom the new feathers
with your fingertips (the method to do this is described further on... see The
Parrot Touch).

182
VetBooks.ir

If the parrot responds poorly or seems on the verge of a nervous breakdown

(tries to get away from you, throws furtive glances right and left or tries to
bite) stop touching him immediately. Keep the bird on your lap without
touching him, but continue to talk to him in a soft and soothing voice (that is,
even if he has managed to bite you. Difficult, very difficult… I know).

When you think he is calmer, and only then can you begin again the touches. It
is important to be attentive to his reactions and body messages. By removing
your hands when you feel your parrot nervous, you send a message of respect;
he will see you as empathetic and will become less fearful and more willing to

183
 trust you. Remember, you should never force a parrot to do something he
VetBooks.ir

perceives as uncomfortable.

The back is a very sensitive part of your parrot's anatomy. Since most of his
natural predators (raptors) come from the sky and the majority of attacks are
focused on this strategic area of his body, you must never try to pet a parrot on
his back before he agrees to accept your touches on his head and neck
gracefully. You must absolutely avoid becoming a predatory figure.

The parrot can interpret caresses on his back as an attack on his life. Letting you touch him there is a sign of great

184
 trust.
VetBooks.ir

You start by caressing the head, the area of the face, beak, neck, and when the
bird seems very comfortable with these touches, you can gently come down to
his back. Touch him with your fingertips rather than trying to use a full hand to
pet him. It is important not to try to grab the bird's back in your first attempts,
this gesture would result in awakening in the bird the slumbering prey and
therefore to initiate a flight response or worse, a defence response.

185
 VetBooks.ir

186
VetBooks.ir

It would be good to teach your bird not to fear being touched on the back,
because you will often need to restrict your parrot by placing your hand at that
precise location to prevent him from flying; this is especially handy when in a
hurry and Coco does not want to return immediately to his house or carrier. To
do this, the bird is perched on your right hand and you put your left hand on his
back holding his wings against his body. Thus immobilized, you can carry him
from one place to another without the bird trying to escape.

When he accepts well being touched on his back, you move on to the legs, the
chest, you open the wings for a closer look, then you caress under the wings,
tail, until he accepts with assurance to let you touch all of his body parts. At
this point, you can conclude that you have done a good job and you have finally
won for the most part the confidence of your parrot. Congratulate yourself, you
deserve it!

187
 Note: Do not have unrealistic expectations about the early acceptance of caresses. Each parrot is
VetBooks.ir

different with his own personality, apprehensions and fears. You must follow the rhythm that the
bird will impose. This is a sine qua non condition to move forward with him.

188
VetBooks.ir

The Parrot Touch

As I have often said, my philosophy of life with a parrot is one of respect,

sharing and reciprocity. It is a win/win situation and the human will need to
have enough understanding to turn himself from time to time into a psitta-
human, that is to say, the perfect companion to his parrot. The psitta-human
understands, accepts and respects the needs of the bird and even sometimes
behaves as if he was a parrot himself, going as far as to adopt avian attitudes,
becoming half-parrot when the need arises. The good teacher is one who has
an open mind, that has no inhibition and lives in harmony with the innate
behaviours and the folkloric expectations of his bird.

189
 The psitta-human has no inhibition about the sensuality of his parrot.
VetBooks.ir

The parrot touch is certainly one of those attitudes most appreciated by our
winged companion from his human darling. It is a very intimate interaction.
This way of integrating your bird's innate attitudes to your own behaviour and
actions towards him can only bring you closer to your parrot while sending the
message that you understand him and are able to meet his needs.

190
VetBooks.ir

Come Over Here That I Cuddle You

One of the most sought-after touches by a parrot is the grooming of the mature
feathers on his head, cheeks and neck. Indeed, these places are difficult to
access and he needs the help of a partner to complete his grooming. This
gesture, trivial in appearance, also serves to strengthen the emotional ties
between the two partners. There is the groomer: the one who cleans the
feathers; and the groomed: the one who accepts with confidence to be
pampered. It is an act of great sensuality and a privileged moment of intimacy.

If your bird does not have a companion of his own specie at a foot's distance,
he will naturally count on you, his human darling, to fulfill this role and
become the perfect parrot companion during a nice session of groom me /
groom you. Parrots really appreciate that their human provide caresses in an
avian manner, and this parrot touch is an affectionate attention that they enjoy
especially.

When parrots groom each other, they actually go to the base of the feathers near
the skin, completely burying their beak in the plumage of the other. You will
reproduce this gesture with your parrot. Your nails and your fingertips will
become delicate grooming instruments in replacement of the beak.

191
VetBooks.ir

You always start a grooming session by notifying the bird of your intentions, a
phrase like: Scratch your little head? This approach reduces the anxiety of the
bird who can therefore begin to anticipate the enjoyment he will have being
pampered by your nimble fingers. Then, comfortably installed on your couch as
the session can be long, delicately, feather by feather, press the thin sheath of
keratin that covers the small feathers (the small white peaks) between your
thumb and the nail of your index finger.

192
 VetBooks.ir

193
VetBooks.ir

This sheath slowly crumbles into small flakes and the new feather appears
under the action of your fingers. A moment of ecstasy for your bird!

Naturally, if the feather is not ripe enough, the bird will protest with a loud
harghhhhh, which definitely does not say that he wants you to stop
immediately the grooming session! Your parrot is simply informing you that
this particular feather is not ripe. You will have to develop more finesse in
your handling. Be focused and attentive when choosing the feather to be
cleaned, as if it is not ready, that is to say, free from blood, the operation can
be painful for your parrot and his response can be quite intense. As you are
making a parrot gesture, he will notify you naturally using parrot language.

Subsequently, why not take your turn being groomed by your friend? You only
have to lower your head in his direction and offer your hair for grooming
(without hair wax or spray, of course).

194
VetBooks.ir

Your parrot will be very meticulous in his work, smoothing each hair gently,
one after the other and most importantly, he will love accomplishing this
essential act of intimacy for his human darling. He will feel important and
essential to you. Parrots do like to feel needed.

Most parrots literally love this kind of attention and it is only in rare cases that
a bird systematically refuses a grooming offer. Naturally, some birds are more
difficult to convince than others of the merits of your intentions when you first
attempt this; it is a matter of temperament or of degree of socialization. In such
cases take your time, for all parrots need a helping hand with their hygiene; go
slowly, a feather at a time. Place the bird in front of you so that he can see you
well and, while talking to him gently, first clean the feathers around his beak
and cheeks.

Few parrots can resist this kind of contact; then gradually (and this may be the

195
 next day), move to the top of his head and eventually, dig your fingers into his
VetBooks.ir

neck feathers. You must be fully focused on the emotional responses of your
parrot; as soon as he seems to stiffen, immediately stop your actions, because
if you do not understand the message quickly, the ensuing reaction could be
more explicit...

196
VetBooks.ir

French Kiss... no Lips!

Another popular parrot touch favoured by our sensual winged companion:

caressing and titillating his beak and his tongue with your fingertips.

Parrots often use their beak and tongue to search, play, groom each other,
socialize, and... in love rituals. They also like to squabble using their beak.
The beak and the tongue are very sensitive, they have a lot of nerve endings.
Remarkably, most parrots enjoy having this delicate area rubbed, or like to
play using their tongue with your fingertips. These are very intimate and
sensual gestures.

197
VetBooks.ir

The beak is a very sensitive part of the parrot’s body. Touching the beak is quite a sensual gesture.

Gently caress your bird's beak between your thumb and forefinger. Do not
apply too much pressure; we are really in all cuddle caress mode. Then touch
his tongue with your fingers... he will want more!

198
VetBooks.ir

Petting or playing with the beak of a parrot sends two messages:

1- I love sharing periods of intimacy with you. (Yes, yes do not blush!)
2- Your beak is not a weapon to me, I am not afraid.

A bird that has learned the art of playing Cerberus, using his beak to give cold
sweats to his entourage, may be surprised with your new attitude and
completely stop pinching overnight, having found a much more pleasurable

199
 usage for his beak.
VetBooks.ir

Note: The beak and tongue are very powerful erogenous zones in parrots. During hormonal
period, this kind of "tickling" can take on a much fuller meaning... it's up to you!

200
VetBooks.ir

So Gooooooood!

There is as well a parrot touch that is defined as follows: I offer you the best
gift ever... food all warm and predigested... A real treat!

Parrots demonstrate the level of their commitment by feeding each other. With
a back-and-forth movement of the neck, they regurgitate food from their crop
and then offer it to the object of their affection, the bird of their dream.

201
VetBooks.ir

With parrots, feeding each other is a sign of great intimacy...

In a domestic context, without a bird companion of his own specie, it is a safe

bet that you will be the target of this affectionate attention and that you will
have to learn to accept this somewhat unusual kind of gift. Never recoil or
express disgust when faced with this behaviour. Your bird is convinced to
render you very happy and will not understand your reaction. It is best to

202
 lovingly accept this warm, sticky and fragrant gift by taking it with your hand
VetBooks.ir

(or a tissue if you really feel disgusted...).

... it is likely that he will try to do the same with his human darling.

Certainly, if Coco is a cute little lovebird... then, the thing is quite harmless
and even acceptable. But in the case of a large macaw or cockatoo... I must
admit that you sometimes need a firmly anchored stomach... depending on what
was eaten an hour ago. Yerk..!

You can reproduce yourself this bird gesture to strengthen the affective bonds
with your companion bird. Offer to him some warm/hot mash (not too hot 106
°F/41 °C) with a spoon (oatmeal, cream of wheat, soup, cereals, hand-feeding
formula, etc.) to give him the impression that you are regurgitating good warm
predigested food like an attentive parrot companion.

It would be wrong to believe that this act may, in an emotional way, infantilize
your bird. I present to you as an example Etienne, my Amazon, the bird I
mentioned previously for whom this simple bird gesture has greatly facilitated
the integration on his arrival at the Refuge. Etienne is still literally crazy about

203
 this kind of attention provided several times a week. Etienne has never been
VetBooks.ir

fed by hand. He perceives this gesture for what it really is: his human
companion demonstrating affection by offering the greatest parrot gift ever.
Now, despite his grumpy old man's attitude, he knows that he can trust me, that
our relationship is very strong.

204
VetBooks.ir

In the case of a young parrot, for example a three to six-month-old parrot that

205
 you have just purchased, the simple act of feeding him again with warm food
VetBooks.ir

will strengthen his feelings of security in your presence. And once again, do
not worry too much about having your baby regress; at three months old, how
far can he regress? To the egg? A baby parrot will not regress further than to
the baby parrot stage... trust me! And more, if you take the trouble to do this
simple bird gesture twice a week, in addition to pleasing your parrot and
strengthening your relationship, if your bird gets sick and needs medication
administered orally, you will bless the day you decided to make this parrot
gesture. Because, concealing a drug in a delicious puree is still the easiest and
most enjoyable way to medicate your parrot, and that is for both you and the
bird.

206
VetBooks.ir

Embracing and Hugging Your Parrot

As mentioned before, it is not in the nature of the parrot to immediately

recognize hugs and embraces as affectionate touches. But fortunately and to our
delight, the parrot is an intelligent and flexible animal that can learn to adapt
his natural instincts to new situations, even those not included in the
programming of his genes, and he can even come to really appreciate them. To
be embraced is to accept to place oneself in quite a delicate and vulnerable
position. This is a great demonstration of confidence towards one's human.

207
VetBooks.ir

Nothing is nicer than a parrot that lets himself be hugged confidently by reassuring arms.

The very young parrot will only offer a token resistance in your first attempts,
as he instinctively searches for this kind of close physical contact that evokes
the reassuring compression inside the nest among the other chicks of the brood.
However, an older individual will certainly need to be convinced of the merits

208
 of this intimate gesture, unless, of course, he has already had similar enjoyable
VetBooks.ir

experiences with another human. It is up to you to judge how far you will be
allowed to go. Do not try to hug your bird before he willingly consents to be
scratched and caressed by your hands over the entire surface of his body. Do
not forget the usual protocol with parrots: you must take the time required...

First Step:
Before slowly approaching for an embrace, you must be very calm and ensure
that your parrot has the same mindset as you. Install him on his training stand,
since at the beginning all your introductions will be conducted facing him; he
should be able to see you coming. Approach slowly towards the bird while
talking to him until his beak is almost in contact with your body.

209
VetBooks.ir

First step... Second step...

210
VetBooks.ir

Third step... Fourth step

Then slowly drop your forearms on each side of his body on the training stand
without touching him. Remain in this position ten to fifteen seconds talking to
him constantly. At that moment, it is normal that the bird will feel nervous and
turn his head to one side and then to the other to follow the movements of your
arms and your hands. Gently remove your arms before the bird shows signs of
discomfort with this position. Praise and reward your parrot for his courage.

Second Step:
Repeat the manoeuvre several times until your parrot seems less nervous and
tolerates the presence of your arms on each side of his body. When he appears

211
 to accept the situation with good grace, you can start bringing your arms closer
VetBooks.ir

to his body by moving very, very slowly, until there is contact between your
forearms and the body. At this point, if the parrot does not seem to respond,
you can keep your arms positioned there for ten seconds. However, if he seems
anxious, remove your arms before his fear returns and he succumbs to panic.
Praise him profusely and reward.

Third Step:
Now that the bird accepts to be touched by your arms, wrap him inside. Bring
your body nearer until he leans his head against you for support. If the bird
seems to respond favourably, caress his neck and head with your hands. Stop
everything if he becomes agitated; you will start again later.

Fourth Step:
Now that your parrot accepts the presence of your arms and hands on his body,
request a step up and take him in your arms to continue the exercise. The bird
should absolutely stand on one of your hands, let's say the right hand. With your
left arm, surround his body while your (left) hand caresses his head. Now you
are ready for a big hug.

212
VetBooks.ir

Parrots love the intimacy of a moment of cuddling comfortably installed on your bed.

Fifth Step:

You can now start hugging your parrot in different situations and different parts
of the house: lying in your bed, listening to your favourite soap opera in the
living room, during your endless telephone conversations with Jennifer, etc.
Any situation where you have some free time is a good excuse for a little
tenderness. Do not be stingy! It is important that your parrot be comfortable
during a session of cuddling. Always check that he is perched well (on a piece
of furniture, a perch or part of your anatomy, etc.), his wings and tail
positioned correctly and that nothing in the environment comes to disturb the
tranquility of the moment.

213
VetBooks.ir

See What the World Looks Like

For the bird to feel safe in his territory, it is important that it be well known,
that he is able to move around and get his bearings; he should not have fears or
concerns about the environment. The parrot is an intelligent animal and
especially adaptable. He can accommodate to various situations as long as
they are introduced properly or that they are predictable.

He will not feel threatened when you change his routine by inviting him to have
his meals in the living room listening to prime-time television rather than in the
dining room as usual, if he knows the living room territory. He will not mind a
gentle cuddling session, snuggled against you in your bed, if he knows the
bedroom territory where the bed is located. The parrot is not afraid of change,
he can adapt. However, he can be affected by the unknown that messes up his
routine, or that comes suddenly unannounced. You need to make this territory
that is your home safe through adventures in your presence or explorations. Do
not hesitate to do manipulation exercises or cuddling sessions in different parts
of the house. Change your routine and incorporate new games, including
touching sessions in every room of the house. In this way the parrot will feel
good with you anywhere and will not fear small changes to the program or
unexpected events that are so much part of living with humans.

214
VetBooks.ir

Your parrot should feel comfortable anywhere within his territory. If you do
not take the time to make him feel safe in his environment, do not be surprised
if he refuses your caresses or does not respond to your step up request when
you try to interact with him in a room or a place new and unknown to him.

215
VetBooks.ir

When you have to...

Unavoidable Manipulations
The %?#!*&% Towel !

Most parrots literally hate all forms of restraint, regardless of where they
originate. While Coco is crazy about you, do not think that getting entangled in
a towel will be like water on a duck’s back. No way!

All parrots inevitably end up in a towel at one time or another, whether at the
vet for a routine exam, in your home for an emergency or sometimes even for
the simple but essential grooming of nails. In order not to get this event
traumatic, instauration of the predictability of the situation is in order. A
situation he will have had the opportunity to safely explore.

216
 Use a towel suited to the size of the bird. A washcloth will do nicely for a cockatiel.
VetBooks.ir

In order not to fear an object or a situation, these must be predictable and

known as safe to the bird, and the best way to introduce a new element or
situation to a parrot is through games. Here the object is the towel or other
covering, and the situation is to end wrapped up in the aforementioned towel.

217
VetBooks.ir

Item: the Towel

Your parrot should have his very own towel; a comfort towel especially
adapted to his size. Choose a pastel shade so as not to frighten him with darker
colours; it will also allow you to quickly find a small spot of blood during the
grooming of nails or other riskier manipulations. The comfort towel should
also serve to dry the parrot when coming out of the bath, to snuggle cozily
during cuddling sessions… and to contain him when the situation requires it.
While there is actually no situation asking for it now, I suggest you continue
playing gently to wrap your parrot in his comfort towel from time to time, just
a question of getting ready and to ensure he retains his candid and carefree
attitude faced with this object. In Coco’s life, it would be far preferable that
the towel be used most often in happy interactions and that the inevitable
episodes of contention remain some sporadic mishaps. The amount of pleasure
must far exceed the unpleasantness with the towel, this is the only way to keep
him tamed faced to it.

218
VetBooks.ir

Method of Desensitization to the Towel

Install a towel flat on a table, sofa or on your bed and let your parrot walk
over it and even nibble it if the mood takes him. Then gently with your hands,
start moving the towel. Rub the beak and legs with a corner, talking to your
bird with a playful voice tone. Take a piece of the towel and move it over his
head, remove it quickly saying Peek-a-boo, vocally showing your pleasure.
You wrap more of his body until you can roll him completely inside.

219
 VetBooks.ir

220
VetBooks.ir

You repeat this several times, always in a playful way, and gradually you wrap
more of his body until you can roll it completely inside and take him in your
arms. At this point, you praise and praise profusely, your winged friend is a
very brave bird. Do not be mean with caresses either. During your first
attempts, do not hold him more than 15 seconds in this position. Put him back
on the table or bed and start the games again, quite candidly. All this must
remain a game for your parrot. When quite comfortable with this new object
that is the towel, you can play Tarzan swinging on the vine, letting the bird
grab one end of the towel and making a slight rocking motion. Parrots familiar
with the towel love this game.

221
VetBooks.ir

Now that you have the assurance that your parrot is not afraid any more, you
can transpose the game to his training stand and cage. Do these games with
your bird often to retain the habit of being manipulated in this way. Wrap your
bird out of the bath or for a good cuddling session. Play often the game; no
matter where in the house play at rolling your bird in the towel.

222
VetBooks.ir

Games and Manipulations with a Towel to Maintain Confidence

Wrap the parrot when coming out of the bath, dry him thoroughly with
the towel and take the time to cuddle him profusely.
A good cuddling session in the evening, 30 minutes before bedtime, well
wrapped in HIS own comfort towel, is a very pleasant activity for the
bird and brings out the positive side of this gesture.
The Madonna: Install the parrot on his training stand in front of you and
say: Let’s do the Madonna! With HIS own towel, wrap the bird’s body
starting behind and ending by putting the towel over his head, taking care
of not covering his face, similar to representations of the Madonna. As
soon as the towel is installed on his head, you tell your bird how cute he
is this way... and you demonstrate it by giving your bird lots of kisses!
Parrots who are used to playing to the Madonna are real sucks who love
that we find them beautiful with a towel over the head. At home, as soon
as I take a towel or a table cloth in my hands, I always get a parrot
pushing himself under to do a Madonna. This has created a whole new
game…
Ole Toro: Install the bird on a flat surface (a table) and shake HIS towel
slightly in front of him saying Ole Toro! Then, slowly move the towel
forward as in a bullfight (do not forget that I say as in a bullfight). After,
you lift up and remove the towel; you praise and you repeat until the bird
understands the game and pounces on his own on the towel. Do not worry,
parrots understand very well the difference between The Madonna and
the Ole Toro.
Peek-a-boo is a modified Ole Toro. The method is the same, with the
difference that when lifting the towel… you say Peek-a-boo with a
surprised and playful tone. It will not be long before your bird, if he talks,
meets you with an enthusiastic Peek-a-boo when you raise the towel. It
should be noted that even if he does not vocalize the Peek-a-boo in
question, it does not mean that he enjoys less the game.
Peek-a-boo second version: Install the parrot in your bed and slide under
the covers completely, leaving him outside this makeshift tent. At that time
your parrot is looking for you and is trying to lift the sheets. You lift a
corner so that the bird sees your face and say Peek-a-boo and cover the

223
 parrot bringing him under the blanket with you in your little makeshift
VetBooks.ir

cave. Take the bird out from under the covers while you return under.
Raise them and say Peek-a-boo again. Continue this way until you feel the
bird takes real pleasure searching for you under the sheets and comes
under without any fear. If you play this with many parrots, you will find
yourself assailed from all sides by an army of parrots trying to penetrate
under the blanket. Lots of laugh and pleasure guaranteed. In addition, it is
a good opportunity to get the whole flock interacting.

224
 Remember that these games should be fun and that the bird must feel joy and
VetBooks.ir

pleasure in the tone of your voice.

225
VetBooks.ir

Wrapping your Bird for a Necessary Contention

Although it breaks our heart, sometimes there are situations where we must
contain the bird, for example in response to an emergency, for the grooming of
his nails or the examination of a body part. I assume that you have done what is
necessary to get your parrot used to be rolled in the towel. Ending unwillingly
wrapped up in a towel is already not much fun for the parrot, if on top of this
he has the impression of being attacked by a wild towel... you’re not out of the
woods. Take the time required…

Since you have no choice, you must do your best to ensure that the experience
is not shocking to your parrot and that he comes out of this with most of his
feathers in place. The way you use the towel during those first times will affect
future reactions of the bird to this object. Everything must happen quietly and
smoothly. If possible, always face the parrot when approaching with the towel;
parrots keep this ancestral fear of being assailed from the back and such a
strategy could ruin the hard to acquire spontaneity towards the games of towel
wrapping. As we saw earlier, you should never try to catch your parrot in the
dark with bare hands: imagine the damage that could be done using a towel...
your bird may be affected for life. This is something to be banned totally!

If your parrot accepts to be wrapped in HIS comfort towel by you, his human
darling, because he trusts you, it does not mean that the exercise will work if
performed by another person. During an examination at the vet, always bring
the bird’s towel and offer to wrap your companion in HIS towel yourself.
Nobody knows him better than you do and nobody knows how to manoeuvre
the way you two have established together. Wrapping Coco yourself is still the
best way to avoid that he comes out of this experience in a state of shock or
stressed; consequences that will have an impact on your relation later.

During the first necessary towelling (whether an emergency restraint or

restraint imposed by a person other than you) be very attentive to signs of
intense anxiety manifested by your parrot. If breathing becomes noisy or jerky,
colour of the skin of the face or outline of the eyes change (red or blue), if you
hear a knock sound from his chest, your parrot is actually on the verge of a
nervous breakdown. In such cases, you must immediately release the towel and
let the bird cool down before resuming the operation. You must pay attention to

226
 these signs very seriously. It would really be best to practise emergency
VetBooks.ir

towelling with your parrot before the onset of a real emergency. Again, if the
bird has already experienced these kinds of manipulations, he will be less
stressed when presented with a more dramatic situation.

227
VetBooks.ir

Towelling Methods for First Necessities:

Depending on the part of the body that you want to inspect, you will cross the
sides of the towel on the chest or back of the bird.

If the requirement is to access the front of the parrot, the interior of his
wings or tail, the head, the face, the vent area or legs and nails, the sides
of the towel will be crossed in the front and the parrot positioned facing
the ceiling.
If the body part you want to see is his back, the back of his head, above
the wings or tail, the sides of the towel will be crossed in the back and
the bird positioned face down.
Whatever forms of restraint, it is important to ensure proper positioning
of the wings, legs and tail of the parrot in the towel.
Under no circumstances should you apply pressure on the chest, the crop
or the head of the bird.
Never obstruct or make pressure on the trachea (located inside the small
hole in the lower mandible of the bird).

228
VetBooks.ir

Make sure your fingers do not block the nares of the parrot (the two small
holes directly above the upper beak).

229
 VetBooks.ir

230
VetBooks.ir

The Cross Over the Back Method (1)

The parrot is installed in front of you on his training stand, table, floor or
whatever. If he is very confident, you slide your hands under both ends of the
towel, making the request Come in the towel (that’s what I say, you can change
this for a phrase that suits you better) and while approaching your body, you
wrap the bird so that your hands are superimposed crosswise on his back. You
press your body against the body of the bird, bringing it closer to you as you
lift your arms, finishing wrapping him while nestled against your chest.

231
 VetBooks.ir

232
VetBooks.ir

The Cross Over the Back Method (2)

Open up the towel on your chest. Step up the parrot using your right hand,
keeping him in place by putting your thumb on his foot. Bring the bird closer to
your chest in front of the towel and your left hand draw a side of the towel
over the bird’s body. You continue your wrapping movement by inserting your
left hand between the breast of the bird and the towel lying on your chest. You
leave your hand positioned this way. Now your left arm is completely around
the bird’s body and the fingers of your left hand are positioned on the breast of
the bird. With your left hand and arm you hold the parrot and you free up your
right hand to get the other side of the towel to cross over the back of the bird
completing the wrapping. What a well sausaged parrot!

233
 VetBooks.ir

234
VetBooks.ir

The Cross Over the Chest Method (1)

Your parrot is again in front of you on his training stand, on the table, on the
floor, etc. You move closer and, this time, you slide the towel on the back of
the parrot, from your right to your left. The towel is now behind the bird. You
place the towel over his back and shoulders and you just cross the sides of the
towel on his chest. You wrap the bird well and when done, you lift him using
both hands, being careful to position his wings inside the towel.

235
 VetBooks.ir

236
VetBooks.ir

The Cross Over the Chest Method (2)

This is virtually identical to the Cross Over the Back (2) with the small
difference that it is the back of the bird that is pressed against the open towel
unfolded on you and your left hand goes over his chest and your fingers are
positioned between the back of the bird and the towel.

237
 VetBooks.ir

238
VetBooks.ir

It is important to properly support the body of the bird and to be certain that his
wings, legs and tail are placed in a natural way while in the towel. When the
parrot is comfortable with either of these methods, you can begin to accustom
him to lie on his back in your arms, holding him similarly to a human baby. It is
important that his head be held a little higher than his body. If you feel your
parrot nervous, return him immediately back to a vertical position.

If you are in full rehearsal mode of towelling methods for prime necessities,
still do not forget that you are also in the field of games and that the exercise
must be enjoyable for your bird; the goal is not to scare him but to get him used
to the towelling process.

239
VetBooks.ir

Single Person Manipulations

Often, for the legs, face or chest, it is easier to work alone, which is also much
less stressful for the bird.

240
 VetBooks.ir

241
VetBooks.ir

Let’s start with the legs area. Wrap your parrot in the towel with a cross over
on the chest. Sit comfortably, legs crossed, left over right, for a more
comfortable position for the bird. You snuggle your parrot against your body,
base of his back leaning on your higher leg and you use the crook of your left
arm to hold the body of the bird while your left hand assists your right hand to
disengage the parrot’s leg. With your left hand, you hold the bird’s leg and with
your right hand, you do what you have to do: nails, bandages, etc. This method
allows you to have both hands free to work; it is very gentle for the bird who is
comfortably nestled in the crook of your arm.

242
VetBooks.ir

Chest and Face Areas

Let’s say you have to inject a medication (prescription from the veterinary), a
problem with the beak or a case of clogged nares and you need to work with
the front of the bird. To do this, you must set the body of the bird facing you.
Wrap your parrot in the towel, always checking the position of his wings and
tail, and then when he is well packaged, install him on your knees, tucked
under your left arm, a bit like a rugby ball.

243
 VetBooks.ir

244
VetBooks.ir

Your left elbow holds his body and your left hand holds his head, thumb under
the beak (be careful with the trachea), and fingers (1, 2 or 3 fingers, depending
on the size of the bird) are on top of the head (beware the nares). Your right
hand is doing what it has to do. For an injection or to check the status of a
wing, uncover a little the chest of the bird; for the head area, all you need to do
is to hold him with your left hand and work with the right.

245
VetBooks.ir

If necessary, change hand while maintaining the restraint on the head; as you
know, the parrot will use every opportunity if released to free himself from his
awkward position.

246
VetBooks.ir

Two Persons Manipulating

It is important that the bird be comfortable. For an examination of the front of

the body, he must be held firmly but without pressure. Wrap him into the towel
(folds in the front); not forgetting to make sure the wings are correctly closed
in a natural way and the tail follows the position of the body. You install the
parrot comfortably on a cushion, lying on his back. Take the head with one
hand, thumb under the lower part of the beak and the index on the head (be
careful not to obstruct the nares or to apply pressure on the trachea). The head
is held slightly elevated and you hold the body of the bird with the other hand,
taking care not to apply any pressure on the crop or the chest. Then, the other
person can slowly open up a fold of the towel to access the part of the body of
interest, the other fold of the towel is used to prevent the bird from taking off
and/or to hold his legs. Everything must happen calmly while talking constantly
to the bird. Never release your grip, for the other manipulator would rapidly
enjoy the consequences...

For the rear of the bird, the towel must be crossed over the back. Wrap him in
the towel, making sure the wings are positioned properly. Install a padded
blanket on the table and deposit the bird on it (so he does not slip). Do not
have him lie flat on the table, but hold him slightly bent forward. The second
person can then examine the necessary body parts. You must act quickly when
your friend is so towelled. Do not forget to check the position of the wings and
tail, to keep his head slightly raised at all times and do not use excessive force
or put pressure on the body. Naturally, after such an experience it may be
necessary to pamper a little your parrot, just to ensure that he does not take the
adventure too personal and hold a grudge against you.

247
VetBooks.ir

Crossed over the chest

248
 VetBooks.ir

249
VetBooks.ir

Cross on the back

250
 VetBooks.ir

251
VetBooks.ir

Bath Time

Bathing or showering a parrot are other essential responsibilities to add to the

list when adopting this animal. He is not a dog or a cat. With parrots, personal
hygiene must be daily rituals to maintain a healthy skin and to keep the feathers
in good condition. It has been demonstrated that the lack of moisture and
showering/bathing can be a cause of feathers plucking in the domestic parrot.
For your bird, bath time should be a special moment spent with you, an activity
that is an integral part of his routine and means fun and games. Use these
intimate instants to strengthen the bonds between you. This is the perfect
occasion to take the time to touch your bird.

It is natural for a parrot to take care of his plumage as it is essential to his

survival. Well maintained feathers allow the bird to protect against the
elements while thermoregulating the temperature of his body, whether the
ambient air is hot or cold. Good condition of the plumage is essential for the
flight, it is what allows him to travel through a wide area in his search for food
and is also his only guarantee of a quick escape from a threat. Despite the fact
that the maintenance of the plumage is part of his genetic makeup, nothing
prepares the parrot born or living in captivity to take a shower or a bath the
same way we humans do. Swimming in groups in small ponds of water or
showering under a tropical rain has nothing in common with the bathroom or
the corner shower in the house... Most parrots are not afraid of water or of
showering, but this can change depending on how the activity is presented to
them, hence the importance of establishing a solid relationship based on trust
with your bird to get him used to the artificial hygiene accessories of our
lifestyle.

Most species of parrots have an innate liking for showering or bathing.

However, birds with cautious temperaments, often poorly socialized, may be
frightened when put in a position they consider unsafe (in the shower) or by
finding themselves weighed down (wet feathers) and unable to fly to escape.
For a parrot to agree to be showered, trust must have taken place into his
human, otherwise he may develop a lot of stress dealing with this gesture, no
matter how natural. So, the first thing to do is to properly assess the
temperament of your bird. You will act differently with a fearful bird or with a
confident and well socialized one. Most importantly, be observant.

252
 There are several ways to shower or bathe a parrot and Coco can be
VetBooks.ir

particularly fussy about how he wants to take a dip. You may need to try
several approaches prior to determining the one that appears to satisfy your
bird.

The bird bath or bowl: Some parrots, especially small parrot species, enjoy
swimming in a small bath designed (purchased at pet stores) for that purpose
or in a bowl placed at the bottom of the cage, on a table or on a counter. This
type of bathing does not really demand physical interactions on your part.
However, be careful and make sure that it is easy for the bird to get out of the
bath. For small parrot species, the ideal is really the luxury pool with varied

253
 depth. To do this, pick up a plastic paint tray (new of course) in which you put
VetBooks.ir

a small hand towel before adding water. The parrot will easily enter and exit
the bath in addition to choosing the ideal depth.

A salad for Coco: Many parrots literally love to feel like they are wallowing
in the morning dew, in the grass and vegetation. To attain this, shred pieces of
leaves from a lettuce, spinach or other greens that you put in a large and
slightly shallow dish (or in the kitchen sink). Then, thoroughly spray the whole
with fresh water and offer this improvised greenery to your parrot. It will be a
hit!

254
VetBooks.ir

In my home, this unusual bath was a great success with my parrots; and do not
think that this kind of deluxe bathing pleases only the Lilliputians among my
birds... Parrots roll in lettuce, shred it to pieces and give it a good foraging.
This type of bathing takes time, lots of time… some parrots can easily return
to their makeshift meadow several times in the morning. It goes without saying
that this is also the messiest and that it can be discouraging for the woman in
me that prefers a very clean and well-ordered household!

The use of a spray bottle: All parrots seem to love and appreciate a fine water
spraying. This is the sweetest method to use with a fearful parrot. It is
important that the pressure of the water is very soft. Adjust the tip of the bottle
to mist and spray over the bird so that he receives water droplets, like a gentle
summer rain.

255
VetBooks.ir

A fine spray is a nice way to maintain Coco’s feathers.

Do not spray directly on the body and even less in the direction of the face.
Rather, orient spray above or beside it. Of course, never use the spray bottle as
a punishment. In any case, this type of expediency never works and may cast a
shadow over your relationship. Better to keep the spray bottle for healthy and
pleasurable activities. Jump Intermission

256
 VetBooks.ir

257
VetBooks.ir

Intermission - The Bath

The bath water should always be very clean. Never shower your bird in hot water. The temperature
of the bath or shower should range from tepid to coldish (not too cold). Shower or bath should
preferably be taken in the morning so that the plumage of the bird has time to dry during the day.
Your parrot should never have to sleep with wet feathers (even slightly) as he could not maintain his
body temperature.

You must never add shampoo or any commercial additives to the water, except, of course, if they are
prescribed by your veterinarian. There is currently a plethora of products available to the
consumer for feather and beak hygiene; these products range from completely unnecessary to
harmful and sometimes downright dangerous.

258
VetBooks.ir

Coco’s cleaning regime requires nothing more than water and more water, and this, at least three
times a week. Naturally, a bath or shower every day would be ideal: the bird getting completely

259
 soaked, all wet, wet, wet!
VetBooks.ir

260
VetBooks.ir

The shower under the shower: Many parrots love to bathe in the shower and
can spend an enormous amount of time getting wet, turning about and flapping
their wings, to the point that it is sometimes difficult to get them out, having so
much fun under this artificial rain. You can install a towel at the bottom of the
bath or the shower floor to prevent the bird from slipping, letting him move
under the shower spray (not too strong), leave and return at will.

Parrots like to choose the length of time they spend under the shower.

This is the preferred method of my big macaws. There are also now on the
market several models of shower perches where your parrot can rest during his
ablutions. Make sure he is not likely to fall by solidly fixing the perch.

261
VetBooks.ir

Shower perches are much appreciated by birds who like to spend a lot of time bathing under a continuous stream of
water.

The shower with human darling: Parrots love to share our activities; they are
gregarious animals that feel reassured when seeing another bird or human
darling engage in the same activities as them. You can start by installing the
parrot on the shower’s curtain rod so that he can clearly see you while you
rehearse with firm conviction Celine Dion’s complete repertoire. Then, when

262
 you are done, you lower the water temperature and you take your parrot with
VetBooks.ir

you under this morning rain.

263
 VetBooks.ir

264
VetBooks.ir

Naturally, the water should be warmish. If you cannot withstand the water
temperature, move away a little from the spray, but remain in the shower with
the bird all the same. If you do not want to keep your parrot on your hand or
have him on your shoulder (the water being too cold for you), install the bird
on his shower perch but keep interacting with him. He will certainly ask for
more...Jump Intermission

265
VetBooks.ir

Intermission - Singing in the Rain!

Do not be surprised if Coco is suddenly seized with an urge for a dip during your household
cleansing frenzy. I have received over the years several testimonials from people who claimed that
their parrot literally rushed into his bowl of water as they vacuumed the house or when hearing the
sound of the dishwasher.

Indeed, many parrots exhibit this amusing behaviour: a ritual dance around their bowl of water,
then a dive head first accompanied by serious splashing. Then, a dip of one leg, then the other,
followed by another dive head first, all this continuing until the bowl is completely empty.

Some observers believe that the sound of the vacuum cleaner evokes the tumult of a waterfall or of
a tropical storm and that parrots are instinctively stimulated to bath when hearing similar sounds.
Why not...? The intricacies of the avian instinct are still very mysterious and heck... as long as it
pleases Coco...

266
 VetBooks.ir

267
VetBooks.ir

Parrots will sometimes show incredible originality when in need of a feather

freshening up. Some birds will favour the sink in the kitchen or the one in the
bathroom or the workshop, the exterior hose when you are watering your
flowers, the children’s paddling pool, even the dog’s water bowl in the
house... There are no preset rules, and a basin of water is as good as another.
It’s up to you to ensure that bathing is a joyful event for your bird.

268
 VetBooks.ir

269
VetBooks.ir

If a bowl or kitchen sink simply pleases most... some parrots will always have unreasonable expectations!

You finish the grooming session of your bird by taking advantage of Coco’s
state of happy exaltation to further desensitize him to the use of restraints by
slowly and gently wiping his feathers with a soft towel. Gently dab water on
the bird with the towel and avoid rubbing or moving the towel the wrong way
against the feathers. If your parrot seems nervous when seeing the towel, do not
force him, this should remain a happy time.
Caution: Do not use a hair dryer with your parrot. Despite the fact that many birds love getting
dried this way, in recent years, heating elements of most dryers on the market have been covered
with a rust-proof or antioxidant coating that can be harmful or fatal to your parrot. In addition,
several of the newer models now contain elements covered with a non-stick and non-corrosive
coating called polytetrafluorethylene (PTFE (Teflon ®)) that when heated, can release a deadly gas
for your bird. A risk you should not take.

270
VetBooks.ir

The Nails

The nails of parrots in captivity tend to grow excessively long simply because
they are not maintained by natural abrasives found in the bird’s native
environment.

The obligation to maintain the bird’s nails is therefore falling onto you;
because nails that are too long are uncomfortable and your parrot may have
difficulty perching. That is without taking account of the vulnerability to
injuries if a nail get caught in the ropes of a hanging toy or some other fabric.
The grooming of the nails should be part of the socialization process of the
bird as a daily manipulation routine.

It would be wrong to believe that your parrot will hold against you the
grooming of his nails. I heard too many people tell me that they did not dare do
the grooming of the nails themselves since they firmly believed that the bird
would be terribly upset at them following this insult. If it makes you feel better,

271
 know that for over twenty years I have groomed my parrots’ nails regularly and
VetBooks.ir

that it has never altered in any way my relationship with them.

Of course, it must be done gently and without mishaps. To do this, it is best to

avoid cutting the nail. Use of a nail file is less extreme and as such, more
prudent. By gently filing the nails of your parrot you do not run the risk of
causing bleeding due to a break in the bone (most difficult to control) or in the
surrounding structures, which without doubt is extremely painful... Inside the
nail is a living part called the root, which is particularly sensitive since it is
composed of blood and nerves. If you cut the root, in addition to pain, the bird
may bleed profusely and depending on his size, profuse bleeding may
sometimes endanger his life (birds have a fairly small quantity of blood in their
bodies, especially true for small species). Should this happen, you will need to
use a hemostatic powder or a stick (causing again more pain to the bird). For
these reasons, it is far better to simply file the nails of your bird, and as you
can well imagine, turn this chore in a privileged moment of intimacy
(remember to use all of the occasions available to you)!

The art and method: It is best to use a good nail file rather than a rotating

272
 grinder. The vibrations of the latter can be very uncomfortable for the bird and
VetBooks.ir

the rotation can cause severe heat due to the friction of the abrasive tip. In
addition, the noise emitted by the device may render the parrot very nervous
and then... Bye, bye dear moment of intimacy!

I use a nail file sold for the manicure of artificial nails (acrylic). This kind of
file is very easy to get in a pharmacy or a large surface store and has the
distinction of being very tough in addition to being really inexpensive. If one of
my parrots, in a moment of absent-mindedness, nibbles my file, I simply
replace it.

You must only file the sharp end of the nail. If you file too much (and too
short), the parrot may have problems keeping his balance as he needs some
nails to climb and maintain his position on a perch... or on your shoulder. This
is especially true for very young birds with their youthful awkwardness.

First, keep in mind that the parrot is a prey animal that is wary of any new
situation or any new object at proximity. This time the object will be the nail
file and the event the friction of the nail file on his nails. It is normal for a
parrot to react or remove his leg during the first attempts... this is not a

273
 behavioural problem but a sign of good judgment on his part.
VetBooks.ir

274
 VetBooks.ir

275
VetBooks.ir

If you look at it from his perspective, it is as if giant hands were trying to file
your toe-nails with a board measuring two metres, something the size of a
surfboard... scary would you not say?

It is best to start by desensitizing the bird to the nail file by letting him play
with it and even demolish one (or ten) if necessary. Then, in the evening when
watching TV, install your parrot on your lap and while talking to the bird
calmly, take a toe between your thumb and forefinger and just move the nail
file two or three times on the tip of the nail without actually filing and without
applying any pressure. Praise your bird, offer a treat and leave things as is for
this first time. Keep the bird on your lap and while petting or playing with him
often, take the toes with your fingers. The next day, you repeat the same routine
and you gently file (for good) only one of his nails. End of pedicure for the
evening. The next day, you do another nail, and even two if the bird is
cooperative, then you stop. So, you repeat this every day, a little more each
time, until he is no longer nervous at the contact of the nail file against his
nails. Do not forget to compliment and reward the bird for his cooperation.

276
 VetBooks.ir

277
 Later, you can associate a verbal request with this gesture, Come we’ll do your
VetBooks.ir

nails, taking the bird’s foot between your fingers. Pedicure should not be a
traumatic time for your bird, it is rather an exclusive period spent with your pet
friend. Before long, he will appreciate these moments of intimacy devoted to
make him beautiful.

If your parrot is downright stubborn, you nonetheless need to take care of his
little nails. You can try to file them through the bars of his cage when he is
suspended. At first, you just touch his toes through the bars. The parrot should
not feel trapped: touch but do not grab the toes. Then, when he seems less
nervous about this kind of touch, you can introduce the nail file, carefully
following the steps of desensitization before attempting to file his nails.
Follow the method of one nail at a time, adding naturally the necessary
rewards. Do not be too hasty, it may take several days or even weeks before
the parrot agrees to indulge in your manipulations. Many parrots who refuse
the handling of their toes, accept this relatively better if they feel protected
inside their home.

278
VetBooks.ir

Some birds are more likely to let you manipulate their feet while safe inside their cage.

However, if your parrot also refuses this kind of manipulation, then you will
have no alternative but to resort to the method of the towel to immobilize him
and complete his pedicure. To do this, start by rolling him gently in HIS own
comfort towel and, properly seated in your chair, use the method with the

279
 towel Crossed over the chest, the one described for a single manipulator.
VetBooks.ir

Remember to talk constantly to the bird and to offer praise and reward after the
operation.

280
 VetBooks.ir

281
VetBooks.ir

Ultimately, if your parrot refuses to have his feet manipulated, you will have no choice but to use moderate
contention to take care of the nails. It’s not ideal, but sometimes... it has to be done!

It is important to take the necessary time to get your parrot used to have his feet
handled with confidence. If you scare your bird in your first attempts because
you are anxious to get results quickly, you will have all of an uphill battle to
regain his confidence. Any novelty must be presented correctly, respecting the
bird’s ability to assimilate new items. There is no need to rush...

282
VetBooks.ir

The Beak

Normally, a beak does not require any particular maintenance routine on your
part. The bird will care for his beak by gnawing and nibbling materials
available in his environment. All you have to do is to provide the bird pieces
of wood more or less hard to destroy.

The beak is part of the skull that extends and continues to grow throughout life. To maintain it, the bird has to
chew hard materials.

One should never use a rotary grinder on the beak of a parrot. Improper use
may damage greatly and cause malocclusions that can then remain permanent.

283
 The parrot’s beak is filled with various nerve endings and is highly
VetBooks.ir

vascularized. Vibration and heat generated by this type of instrument can create
a lot of pain to the beak, not to mention the risk of injury and bleeding. If your
parrot is already suffering from a beak deformation or if it extends abnormally,
only a qualified veterinarian should remedy the situation or diagnose a
problem underlying these anomalies. You must not under any circumstances
attempt to reshape the beak of your bird for aesthetic reasons or to minimize
injuries to you caused by his moods (biting). In the latter case, there are better
ways to address this behaviour. Never let anyone convince you to trim or
reshape the parrot’s beak because he has pinched you. This type of risky
advice may actually jeopardize your relationship with Coco.

284
VetBooks.ir

The Wings

The grooming of the feathers of the wings is to be done by bathing (if possible)
every day... end of story. The trimming of the flight feathers is a risky operation
and you may be venturing on a very slippery slope indeed... As described in
the book Behavioural Tripolarity of Parrot, the parrot needs all of his options,
including his flight feathers, to adequately express his prey instinct against a
real or imagined threat.

285
VetBooks.ir

The first reaction of your parrot, even without flight feathers, faced with a
hazard will be to take off, and at that time, he could severely injure himself
(injury to the beak or the keel, concussion, etc.) by falling down or by hitting
the corner of a piece of furniture, especially if perched high. In addition, once
the feathers trimmed, the lack of protection exposes the newly growing feathers

286
 (blood feathers) making them very vulnerable. Worse, a parrot that is faced
VetBooks.ir

with the impossibility to escape will often have no alternative but to defend
himself against a threat (real or imagined) and that, sometimes, may hurt (you)
seriously. So for his physical safety and psychological balance (and yours too),
it is best not to trim the flight feathers of your parrot.

To avoid any fly away during your walk outside with your bird, teach him to
wear a harness. If you are concerned about the possibility of negligence, such
as an open door in your home, create sort of an airlock (that is a small
hallway/area between two doors that provides an intermediary passage) and
adopt the habit of opening only one door at a time. If the layout of your house
does not allow for an airlock, a wood frame with a mosquito net or a simple
curtain (for example a vertical blind) that you keep closed in front of the door
can create a safety barrier.

287
VetBooks.ir

If you still decide to ignore these recommendations, know to what you expose
your parrot. A bad trim of the flight feathers can cause permanent damage to the
feather follicles or to the wings, resulting in further physical instability
(balance and equilibrium) problems; feathers picking, symptoms that may
become chronic; severe anxiety that can manifest itself as hyper vocalization;

288
 episodes of aggression (against himself and his entourage); stereotypies and
VetBooks.ir

other joyful symptoms of the same mould that are usually associated with
anxiety. Well, at least now you know where you stand!

If the parrot is unable to rejoin you... he will make use of his voice to induce you to come to him!

289
VetBooks.ir

On the Mattress
Active Manipulations

When confident, most parrots love to wrestle, tussle or play rough with human
darling. They like to be flipped on their backs, to be tackled, to have their
belly and feet tickled, to pirouette, hang like a bat, play peek-a-boo under the
blanket and also Come that I take you.

290
 These are very intimate gestures that require great assurance on the part of the
VetBooks.ir

bird and real and complete trust in their human. At the risk of repeating myself,
it is up to you to ensure that this trust blooms in your relationship. It is
therefore important to always make the bird feel safe during play
apprenticeship by talking to him at all time and by providing a steady hand to
hold and guide him. I assume that at this point, you’ve done your homework
and your parrot has already gained a lot of confidence in you and that he lets
you manipulate him easily.

291
VetBooks.ir

Jump, Jump the Rabbit

This game is used to confirm the parrot’s trust in your ability to handle him. In
this exercise, you need to use both hands and to grasp the body of the bird
completely. As it is a gesture akin to an act of predation, it is essential that
your parrot demonstrate an almost blind trust in you. If he shows a high
resistance to this game, if he seems very nervous or anxious, he is not yet ready
for active manipulations. You must progress slowly but confidently with your
parrot.

Okay, let’s go! Place your bird on a table, on the bed or on the floor. Gently
grasp his body, completely covering his wings, while your fingers close up on

292
 his chest. If your parrot is small in size, use only one hand. Gently lift your bird
VetBooks.ir

and make him do small jumps while encouraging him by speaking in a joyous
tone or humming a song. You have him do little tiny jumps, two to three times,
and then you stop. Reward. Resume the game doing some more tiny jumps,
always encouraging your bird with your cheers.

When he gets very comfortable with the idea of your two hands hugging and
raising him, you can try to be more daring by lifting and swinging his body
backward so that he stands on his back in your hands.

293
VetBooks.ir

Do not leave him too long in this position so unnatural. This movement aims to
initiate the parrot to lying on his back, our next manipulative step.

294
VetBooks.ir

Lying on the Back

The Lying on the back position is far from being a natural movement. He will
usually take this position only to defend himself during an attack. This is a
game about trust in that the bird must demonstrate a high level of assurance.
Once confident enough to lie on his back in your hand, the possibilities for a
number of different games and manipulations are greatly extended.

Your parrot is perched on your right hand and your thumb rests on at least one
of his feet. You say Go to sleep and, with a motion of the wrist, have him
topple over on his back in a half-rotation movement. Your left hand is
immediately against his back and you lean the parrot backward, still holding
his foot or feet with your right hand. Then you bring him back to his original
position (vertical) and praise him galore for his feat. In your first attempts, do
not let the bird stay on the back for more than three or four seconds before
returning him upright.

295
 VetBooks.ir

296
 VetBooks.ir

297
 VetBooks.ir

298
 VetBooks.ir

299
VetBooks.ir

Start again, leaving him lying in your hand a little longer, without exaggerating,
of course. It is only when the parrot becomes familiar with this movement that
you can release your right hand from his foot. To reassure the bird (to give him
the impression that he is hanging on to something), you can occupy his feet with
a thin elongated object (pencil shaped) that he can grab.

Then, to proceed further with this game, put him on his back on a table or on
your bed, with or without an object to hold.

300
VetBooks.ir

If the bird remains in this position, then he has really gained a lot of confidence
in you! This is the kind of game that led me to discover a facet of my own crazy
parrots. As strange as it may seem, some of my birds like to position

301
 themselves this way (on their back) to get their nails done, which is a bit
VetBooks.ir

surprising since the posture is absolutely not natural for them. But really, could
anything be considered unusual for an animal as adaptable as the parrot? From
the moment your bird lies down on his back without difficulty, why not make
him lie down in your hand, but on his chest this time?

302
 VetBooks.ir

303
VetBooks.ir

You begin in the Lying on the back position in your left hand, and then you put
your right hand on his chest and you turn the bird completely on your right hand
and you remove your left hand.

304
 VetBooks.ir

305
VetBooks.ir

You leave him in this position, legs dangling, for three or four seconds, and
then you take his feet back with your left hand. Jump Intermission

306
VetBooks.ir

Intermission - Too Old to Change?

The parrot learns throughout his whole life. He is never too old to integrate new concepts, modify
or adapt already established behaviours or learn new forms of communication, as long as you are
available to educate him and as long as he continues to progress. In the wild, if he does not learn
from his experiences, he will not survive, regardless of age. In many cases, it seems easier to work
with an older (more experienced) parrot: he can analyze a situation, understand its benefits more
quickly and focus his attention longer. Naturally, to have an older parrot accept to change his
attitude will require that the human also put in the effort and be ready to modify his own behaviour.
I have often seen chaotic human-parrot relationship for years take a new direction simply because
the human was able to change his communication codes.

A parrot that has received virtually no attention (left in a cage, isolated or ignored) for a long time
(sometimes years) or has been "tamed" with violence or abuse, may be a little harder to convince,
and that is when the attitude of the person comes into play. If the human takes the required time to
complete each step with his parrot, always respecting his nature and not forcing his own
expectations or the need for performance, Coco might well create the surprise by his great
adaptability, adjusting his behaviour to the new codes presented. Gradually, confidence will return.
And when trust blooms...

307
VetBooks.ir

Turquoise, a 27-year Macaw rediscovered trust after several years of abuse and neglect.

308
VetBooks.ir

The Hanging Parrot

Now that your parrot is no longer afraid to be laid on his back, you can play a
new game: The hanging parrot. To teach this movement, use his favourite
treat. The bird is perched on your index of the right hand, facing you, and your
thumb is placed on one of his feet. With your left hand, you move the treat over
his head going towards the back, and with a motion of the wrist, you flip the
parrot backward and leave him suspended for three seconds. Then, with a
motion of the wrist forward (or helping with your left hand), you return the
parrot upright on your finger. Praise and reward at profusion. Coco is a true
champion!

309
 VetBooks.ir

310
VetBooks.ir

You can then also reverse the game, that is you flip the parrot forward, still
holding one of his feet. Another variation is to place a foot on each of your
index, your thumbs resting on each one of them, and you have the bird dive
(saying Kaboom!) forward and hang, by slightly rotating your wrists (not
arms). Often, he will pursue the movement (from this suspended position)
regaining a vertical position until he faces you. At this time, to release your
bird, you must untwist him, passing your right hand (holding his left leg) over
your left arm, making a full circle with the bird.

311
 VetBooks.ir

312
 VetBooks.ir

313
 VetBooks.ir

314
VetBooks.ir

Note: Some parrots can achieve a degree of excitement that can quickly become out of control
when playing physically and energetically with their human darling. In the heat of the action, they
may pose an unfortunate gesture without even realizing it. If your bird seems to get excited to the
point where the game is changing proportions and becoming rough, stay calm, do not demonstrate
any signs of fear or withdrawal, but stop the game immediately. Perch your parrot and give him
time to regain his senses while continuing to talk to him. You can resume your interaction, moving to
a calmer activity.

315
VetBooks.ir

And the Harness in All This?

Finally, here we come... If I kept the thorny issue of the harness to the very end,
it was intentional because it is absolutely imperative to be able to touch your
parrot everywhere, really everywhere and to be able to hold his little body
without creating a mega-hysteria crisis. It is essential that your parrot let you
handle him with confidence horizontally, vertically and in all positions
possible. In all conscience, I wanted to save you the agony of a dramatic
episode of avian Apocalypse for, in fact, if you and your parrot are not
completely comfortable with each other, believe me, the adventure of the
harness risks making you lose your legendary good humour and lower
seriously your bank of sympathy in the eyes of your bird. When I give
workshops on the use of the harness, I am always surprised to find in the group
of participants two or three people who succeed in putting the harness on their
bird as easily as they would dress a very young child, and this on their first
attempt.

316
VetBooks.ir

The harness is the safest and most enjoyable way to take Coco for a stroll under the sun.

For others, however, gigantic clashes between the protagonists give me a

vague feeling of finding myself in the middle of World War II, directly on the
front line. Observing the participants act with their parrots, it seems very easy
to distinguish between those who have a strong and stable relationship from
those who still have work to do in order to finally create a trusting bond.
Unfortunately, it is the lack of trust that almost inevitably dooms the manoeuvre
to dismal failure.

So there is no way around the problem, the simple way to put a harness on the
parrot is to take the required time to win his absolute and without reserve
confidence. Then, there is the other, complicated, the one many of you know as
Coco has already offered you a taste of it... a very bitter taste that goes without
saying! The complicated method is to assume that everything can be solved by

317
 force and cœrcion and to minimize the importance of taking into account the
VetBooks.ir

level of trust needed in the relationship with your bird and also his emotional
state. It is also the best way to quickly become friends with the pharmacy clerk
who will provide you with bandages on a weekly basis. If the idea does not
appeal to you, I suggest you go back and do your homework before you think
yourself able to harness Coco the crusher! Putting a harness on a parrot is
primarily an issue of trust, the rest is just based on technic and rapid execution.

That being said, even if you used the necessary time to earn the trust of your
parrot and your interactions are generally cordial to the utmost, it is still
possible that he will take a dim view of the association between this flashy
coloured harness and your however so familiar hands. No parrot like
restraints, especially when as far as he is concerned they provide no
satisfaction or immediate gratification. The odds are stacked two to one that
Coco will not provide all the cooperation expected in this activity. In these
cases, it will be up to you to prove to your pigheaded parrot the merits of your
demands.

It is important that your first attempts be during a nice day, so that you have the
opportunity to take your parrot outside immediately after he has donned his
harness. It is useless to practise the wearing of the harness in your home.
Whatever you try, it will be very difficult to convince your bird of the benefits
of wearing this cumbersome apparatus indoors. The harness is designed for
pleasant outdoor activities and it is important that your parrot realizes this as
soon as possible.

Harnessing a parrot for the first time is not easy, I grant you. The adventure is
rather the avian equivalent of trying to put a Mickey Mouse T-shirt on a
Siberian tiger, in proportions, of course. Let’s say that the first time, the parrot
does not like it... I mean... not at all! Prepare yourself mentally a few days
before and go to bed early the night before, for in many cases, you will be
entitled to... a real bad bird day!

For this particular reason, I strongly suggest you get a second harness, the
original harness will surely be torn to pieces by the time Coco has made up his
mind to accept this insult to his integrity. When putting a harness on your parrot
for the first time, the key words are: rapid execution. The more you fiddle and
take your time, the more the risk that the parrot gets into a panic mode.

318
 To develop your skills in installing the harness, I suggest you practise first on a
VetBooks.ir

plush toy roughly the same size as your bird. Do not laugh, this exercise will
help refine your performance, and trust me, you will bless this little dummy
later on in the heat of the action. So you have to be quick without being abrupt
and you will get your parrot outside at once as soon as he is harnessed to make
him understand the reason for this very awkward situation.

319
VetBooks.ir

Idyllic Method With an Easy Parrot

1. Start by undoing the harness and deploy it in front of you on a table (in order
to see where you’re going) in the same position as shown in the photo on page
191. The small cross at the bottom of the harness (Part A) will be positioned
on the breast.

320
 photo 1 and photo 2
VetBooks.ir

2. Install your parrot on a perch or the back of a chair, in front of you and
lower than you (photo 1).

3. Lean your body towards his and with your left hand, pass Part B of the
harness around his neck, while your right hand joins your left to attach the snap
to Ring 1 (photo 2). You will need both hands. Tadam! the collar portion of the
harness is installed (this is the most difficult), let's tackle the body now.

4. Position the Y formed by the harness at this moment, well centred on the
back of the parrot (photo 3).

5. Pass Part C under the left wing of the bird and attach the snap to Ring 2
(photo 4). Phew! Just one more left to do!

6. Pass Part D under the right wing of the bird and attach the snap to Ring 3
(photo 5).

321
VetBooks.ir

photo 3 and photo 4

322
VetBooks.ir

photo 5 and photo 6

7. If the harness appears to be too loose, removes it and make the necessary

323
 adjustments (photo 6).
VetBooks.ir

8. Reset your parrot, attach the leash to Ring 4 and you’re ready for a nice
walk! (photos 7 and 8).

photo 7 and photo 8

What a dream scenario don’t you think? But you and I both know that in reality,
the harsh reality, things do not always happen this way. Even the most docile of
parrots hides within himself a Tasmanian Devil and it is usually during a first

324
 attempt at putting the harness on that this fellow emerges and that the adventure
VetBooks.ir

is much more likely to look like this:

325
VetBooks.ir

Concrete and much more probable scenario

1. Remove the leash and place the harness nearby.

2. Install the bird gently on a perch or on the back of a chair in front of you and
much lower than you.

3. Lean your body towards the bird and with your left hand pass Part B of the
harness around his neck while the right hand reaches quickly the left hand to
attach the snap to Ring 1.

4. Go disinfect your injuries and try to catch the bird (now that he knows what
to expect, this activity will get more energetic).

5. As you took ten minutes to catch your bird, he is exhausted (you too) and
your chances of success are better at this time.

6. Put the bird on the back of the chair and re-lean your body towards his.

7. With your left hand, slide the harness around his neck and with your right
hand, attach the snap.

8. Try to catch the parrot who is now on top of the refrigerator while trying to
keep your composure and your smile.

9. Repeat steps 6 and 7.

10. Ask for help from your spouse to catch the bird, who is by now hanging
from the living room light fixture.

11. Loosen your jaws.

12. Repeat steps 6 and 7, but be faster this time.

13. The collar being finally attached, you can move on to the wings.

14. Pass Part C under the left wing and attach the snap to Ring 2 at the front of
the harness. While putting some pressure to stop the blood so as not to stain the

326
 plumage of the parrot that is still between your arms, ask your partner to bring
VetBooks.ir

a bottle of disinfectant.

15. Re-attach the collar at the neck since the parrot was able to release it in the
meantime. You must increase your rapidity of execution.

16. Pass Part D under the right wing and attach it to Ring 3 in front of the
parrot.

17. Re-attach the snaps at the neck and the left wing.

18. Detach the snap from the two wings to release the foot caught in Part A
and take the opportunity to adjust the harness.

19. Insert Parts C and D under the wings and attach the snaps.

20. The worst is over.

21. Attach the leash to Ring 4, reattach what is no longer attached and request
a Step Up from the bird.

22. Try to get the bird back on his feet as he is now rolled on his back.

23. Prevent him from chewing the harness by putting your hand between his
beak and harness (yes, yes...) saying Don’t chew your harness!

24. Take your parrot for a stroll outside, showing him around. The first time, he
will be unable to see anything as he will be obsessed by the harness
(constantly verify if he has been able to undo a section.

25. If you are patient, stay outside at least 10 minutes, if not come back inside
and remove Coco’s harness by reversing the method (leash, wing, wing, neck).

26. Cuddle your little darling who by then resembles a lettuce shaken in the
colander, so he looks miserable.

327
VetBooks.ir

Mapping the harness

328
 VetBooks.ir

329
 VetBooks.ir

330
 VetBooks.ir

331
VetBooks.ir

Most Likely Method with a Protesting Parrot

You have tried unsuccessfully the idyllic method with your parrot? He does not
seem to have enjoyed the experience at all? Well, it was still worth a shot...
Let’s try another approach, this time trying to preserve and your fingers and
Coco’s honour. Naturally, we will start with the most difficult option: you are
alone in front of the beast. By then you really do not have a choice, your spouse
having witnessed the episode of the idyllic method suddenly remembered an
obscure and important appointment... in short, your spouse left you stranded!
No problem, we will still get there!

1. Position the harness in front of you on the table, as shown.

2. Get your parrot and sit comfortably on a chair, facing the table, and install
Coco on your knees with his back to you (photo 9). So far, so good!

3. Lean your body towards his and, with your left hand, completely surround
his neck (as for a cervical collar). At that moment, the rear end of the bird is
resting against your stomach and your left elbow keeps the parrot in place
(photo 10).

332
VetBooks.ir

photo 9 and photo 10

4. Your left hand stretches the neck of the bird up s-l-i-g-h-t-l-y (do not tighten
to the point of choking him, pay attention to the trachea). In the excitement, be
careful not to raise the bird by his neck, he must keep standing with his legs on
your hips throughout the handling (hanging your parrot risks to ruin your
relationship). This light restraint is meant to save your fingers and keep
yourself well disposed towards Coco.

5. With your right hand, install Part B of the harness around the neck of the
bird and attach the snap to Ring 1 (hence the importance of refining your skills
using a toy). You can make this easier by holding Part B with your left thumb
(left hand still holding the neck) while your right hand patiently tries to attach
the snap (photos 11).

333
VetBooks.ir

photos 11

6. The neck portion done, now it is time to install Part C under the left wing of
the parrot; using only one hand, it is not obvious, but make use of the fingers of
your left hand (while still holding the neck of the bird). Then attach the snap to
Ring 2 (photos 12). A work for a contortionist.

334
VetBooks.ir

photos 12

7. The hardest part done, there remains now only Part D to move under the
right wing of the bird and to tie to Ring 3 (which after the contortion of the
previous step will seem like child play) (photos 13).

335
VetBooks.ir

photos 13

8. Check that the harness fits well on your parrot, otherwise undo and make the
necessary adjustments.

9. Harness again your darling (step 1 to 7).

10. Do not let go of your parrot immediately, you still have to attach the leash
to Ring 4 (photos 14).

336
VetBooks.ir

photos 14

11. Well, it’s done. Now get your bundle of nerves outside to make him forget
all this adventure real quickly.

337
VetBooks.ir

It is evident that your parrot will protest a little, but if you have done your
homework, he will rapidly become more confident in your presence outside.

338
VetBooks.ir

Harness in the Form of a 8

1. Place the harness in the form of an 8 in front of you. Look at it carefully. It is

in the upper Loop A that you will insert Coco’s head.

2. Undo the snap or plastic tie and place Part B in front of you. It is this part of
the harness that you will first slip under the right wing of the bird. You then go
over his back and under the left wing to finally tie it in the front, using Ring 1.

339
 3. Now, start by putting the bird’s head in Loop A and gently tighten it around
VetBooks.ir

the neck by gently pulling on Part B.

4. Bring part B under the wings and attach the snap in the front of the parrot
using Ring 1 (or both ends of the plastic ties together).

5. If necessary, remove the harness to make adjustments (the bird should not be
able to get out of it easily and the harness must be adjusted enough so the feet
cannot become entangled).

6. Make sure that the harness does not have any kinks, which would be very
uncomfortable for the bird.

7. Then, attach the leash to Ring 2 and... Bon voyage!

340
VetBooks.ir

There are several models and format of harness available on the market. Make sure you get the right size for your
parrot.

341
 Naturally, four hands would be much more effective when comes the time to
VetBooks.ir

put a harness on a parrot who fiercely opposes it. The method of restraint will
be the same, but with the help of an accomplice, the execution time may be
shortened by half. Pass the message to your spouse...!

There are few differences between putting a harness on a parrot for the first
time and putting a collar and leash on a puppy. Both will refuse immediately
these freedom of movement restrictions. However, both with time will
associate the leash and the harness/collar with a walk outside, a car ride or the
visit to interesting people and/or places. Some parrot species learn faster to
wear the harness than others. Cockatoos, Macaw, Pionus, Eclectus, Budgies
and Cockatiels are relatively easy to convince. Conures, Amazons, Lories,
Monk Parakeets and Poicephalus are a little more trouble. However, with the
African Greys, Lovebirds and Asian Parakeets... ouch ..! .. ouch! ... That’s
another very difficult story (but not impossible).

Again, it depends on the temperament of the bird, his socialization, his

relationship with you and the level of trust and intimacy. When you put a
harness on your parrot, do not forget to talk to him constantly (without taking a
harsh tone). Be quick so as not to immobilize the bird too long and do not make
the process even more unpleasant with a grumpy attitude. This is a first for the
bird too and as he is frightened, you must spare his sensibilities so that your
next time is not a remake of the first.

342
VetBooks.ir

Notes on Outdoors Outings

The sun is the source for vitamin and health (in reasonable doses of course).
When the weather permits (19-20°C / 66-68°F, it is beneficial for your parrot
to have access to fresh air and a bowlful of sun, and this on a daily basis. Like
us he needs it. To do this, if you do not have a large outdoor aviary available
for your bird and you do not want to transport the bird around in his cage, even
if equipped with all the modern comforts including small wheels, and since it
is out of the question to have the bird in his carrier and travelled around as in a
suitcase (he could not enjoy the scenery), only one solution remains... the
harness!

343
VetBooks.ir

Even though Coco may have his flight feathers trimmed, it is important not go
for a tour outside with your bird without first putting on the harness. Even with
trimmed flight feathers, the parrot could fly off if the flight feathers are trimmed
light to medium. Even with a more severe trim, the bird may yet hover from
your arm in the direction of the road and land on the tarmac… where the cars
roam.

Never underestimate the flight velocity of parrots. They are little machines
designed for this activity and the slightest breeze can lift your bird upward and
carry him to distant and unknown lands. A parrot can travel several kilometres

344
 in a few minutes, go over multistory houses or easily cross a lake and find
VetBooks.ir

himself on the other side. It will then be impossible for you to catch your bird,
and in a state of panic, he may rise higher and higher and away, further away.
The chances that the bird comes back by himself to his home are virtually nil.

345
VetBooks.ir

Basic Safety Rules When Outdoors

Attach the leash to your wrist with a tight bracelet or a cat's collar. Thus,
you will not risk dropping the leash if you stumble or are surprised.
Never let Coco attached to something outside while unattended, there is a
wide range of predators just waiting for it.
Do not put the bird on your shoulder. The prey instinct of the bird when
outside is fully awake and alert, the slightest thing can trigger it. If the
bird gets scared or feels unsafe while on your shoulder, you may end up
with a nasty bite on your face. Rather carry him on your arm, on your
purse strap or a backpack that you will keep below the shoulders.
Never pull on the leash, even to bring the parrot to you, you might hurt
him unintentionally.
Check the harness fasteners and the leash often. Parrots are sometimes
very quick at learning to undo the snaps. If you think your parrot is
particularly good at this game, go to a shoemaker and have them changed
for stronger ones.
If the parrot seems scared... of anything... take him in your arms and keep
him snuggled against you while talking to him in a soothing voice. He will
match his emotions to yours. Outside, everything can be scary for your
bird; remember that he is used to the safe comfort of his home territory.
Always be careful not to expose your parrot too long to the sun. Parrots
can also suffer from heat, and sunstroke may quickly occur during a short
exposure to hot temperature or a long period of exposure to warm
temperatures (especially in the summer). In the case of parrots showing a
lot of skin, for example with little or no feathers in the face or the eye
contour (Macaws, African Greys and some species of Cockatoos or
Conures) or in the case of severe plucking, a sunburn may occur even
during short exposures under a blazing sun.

346
VetBooks.ir

Once he gets used to the harness, your parrot will accept it and may even, as
Chichou my Cockatoo, help you put it on by raising his wings.

347
VetBooks.ir

The purpose of wearing the harness is not to create discomfort for the bird, but
rather to have a good time with him, walking while getting a healthy dose of

348
 vitamin D, courtesy of the sun.
VetBooks.ir

349
VetBooks.ir

And the Others?

"Be courteous to all, but intimate with few, and let those few be well tried before you give them your confidence."
- Georges Washington

Ideally, for your parrot to feel safe in a domestic context, it is important that he
socializes with as many people (humans) as possible, and above all those who
are in his immediate surroundings. The trust and especially the level of
intimacy that he will share with other members of the family will vary and will
depend on the relationship he develops individually with each of them. It is
only in very rare cases that a parrot will have the same relationship with two
members of his social group. There is always the darling, the favourite, the
one with whom he has forged a special bond of intimacy and that to his eyes
plays the role of spouse, and others with whom he forges attachments that are
different but no less stimulating.

350
VetBooks.ir

A young parrot is easy to manipulate, it is the time to socialize him to others.

When the parrot is young, he accepts readily enough to be manipulated and

caressed by almost all the people who come to him if his experience of the
human race to date has been enjoyable.

351
VetBooks.ir

Although there is only one "spouse", the parrot will develop relations with other human members of his social
group... as long as they are open to the idea.

When he grows up, he becomes aware of his environment, he begins to select

individuals to be part of his immediate social group (family and close friends),
and preferences will naturally go to those who give him time, attention and
affection. At that period, he also begins to perceive foreigners (individuals
who are not part of the family) as potential intruders, especially if his
socialization experiences have been limited so far to human darling and his

352
 immediate group.
VetBooks.ir

While growing up, the parrot will continue to refine his selection and some
members of the social group can change status in his eyes if they never spend
time with the bird. That is why it is essential that all members of the social
group develop and maintain a positive relationship with the parrot, either by
caresses or by playing special games that are only for them and the parrot, or
by just continuing to handle him in different situations, alone with the bird or
with the family.

353
VetBooks.ir

Take the time to correctly introduce your friends to your parrot. Inform them of
the right attitude to take, words to use, and if the parrot seems receptive, tell
your guests how to kindly invite him to climb on their finger or just give them
the bird yourself, always talking in a reassuring voice. If he shows signs of
nervousness, remove the bird calmly from your friend and keep him with you

354
 in the room and continue the activity you were doing. Tell your friend to speak
VetBooks.ir

softly and to show much interest. Who knows, maybe Coco will want to change
his mind?

The fact that you are fond of your friends and relatives does not mean that your
parrot will jump in their arms to make you happy during their next visit. Unless
it is a parrot particularly conciliatory, the opposite is more likely. He will be
wary at first and will take the time to assess the person that you are presenting.
If the person seems timid, fearful or shows aggressive behaviour, do not let
him get close to your bird or his cage territory; above all, do not let him try to
manipulate the bird. The attitude of that individual can cause Coco to react,
changing the bird’s attitude to fear or aggression. If you do not get involved
yourself, the parrot may deduce from this a number of conclusions that may
skew his judgment faced with the next person you present to him. If you let a
nobody use authority to force your parrot to interact or attempts intimate
gestures without any opposition from you, your bird is likely to lose the trust he
has placed in you, leaving him no alternative but to defend himself (bite) and
thus jeopardize much of what he has learned with you. If people around you are
not comfortable with your approach to your parrot, it would be better to ask
them to stay at a respectable distance from Coco. It is your relationship that is
at stake and you will have to live with the consequences of somebody else’s
clumsiness.

355
VetBooks.ir

Intermission - Playing Tag the Parrot

Playing Tag the Parrot is a real crazy game that parrots literally love and is guaranteed to pull
some laugh out of you. The real objective of this game is to keep your parrot comfortable with, and
even interested in, the idea of being manipulated by many different people (other than yourself)
and finding in it a great source of pleasure.

The goal is to pass the "tag" to someone else who will as soon as it is possible get rid of it onto
somebody else. Of course, you all realize that the "tag" in question here is none other than... Coco
dearest! Reward the parrot with treats and/or hugs whenever he changes hands.

Human darling begins and sets the tone of the game. The participants walk around the room (they
do not run, which would overexcite the parrot) and the holder of the "tag" must touch a participant
claiming "tag" as passing the winning lot to that person while not forgetting to pay a treat to the
parrot. The participant who is now in possession of the "tag" touches another participant, and so
on until the bird has gone around and spent time with each participant.

Where the game becomes hilarious is when the parrot makes the association between the tag sound
and the changing of hands. From that moment, often the parrot will be the one to say the word
"tag" when a participant touches another, and the bird will soon become very proud of his active
participation in the game. Of course, you must praise your bird for his great insight and
sportsmanship.

I leave you to imagine the pleasure of exploring the many possible variations to this game with "The
Hidden Parrot" and "The Perched Parrot".

Have fun!

356
VetBooks.ir

It Does Not Work!

If after several weeks, your parrot does not seem to progress and you have the
feeling that you stagnate because Coco still does not respond to your attempts
to train him, or worse, the situation seems to be deteriorating rather than
improving... there must be something inappropriate in your approach.

Be honest. Here, you are safe in the company of only yourself:

Have you taken the time necessary, the time really required to get your
parrot used to your presence?
Have you taken the time to observe his emotional reactions, to adjust to
them and not push your bird into a corner resulting in fear, panic,
aggression?
Do you have any irrational fear when facing Coco’s beak? Your reactions
to your bird, can you control them, or are these reactions proportional to
your fears?
Have you taken the time to work on your own behaviour or do you expect
your bird to act reasonably and make all the efforts?
Do you believe that you have done everything properly and do you reject
hopelessly on the bird the responsibility for his behaviour?
Have you been constant, have you worked daily with your parrot?
Training a bird is not a part-time hobby: it requires considerable
regularity. Your parrot deserves more than casual interactions when you
are in the right mood or have some free time.
Have you shown carelessness in your training approaches?
Do you sometimes lose patience or have you adopted an openly
aggressive attitude (in word or gesture) or have you shown
disappointment when the bird did not seem to respond as you wished?
Did you keep changing your requests or methods along the way because
you felt that the results were not happening quickly enough for your
liking? If this is the case, your attitude causes a lot of confusion to the bird
who will simply learn to distrust you.

357
 Are all of the members of your family acting properly with your parrot or
VetBooks.ir

are you the only person to interact appropriately?

If you answered yes to one or more of these questions, you are part of the
average parrot enthusiasts that after the excitement of the first moments are
suddenly confronted with their own limitations... you are human! It is likely
that your bird just does not understand what you expect and in such cases it is
your messages that are not clear. Often, the parrot gives up because you gave
up and stopped too quickly your educational interactions (he managed to bite
you or you felt like you were wasting your time). In the case of a failure, often
it is the human who has not done the right thing or has not done it long enough.
At this point, it is your expectations that are unrealistic: you did not know how
to keep pace with your parrot rhythms. Training this type of animal must be

358
 conducted gradually, step by step; but these steps are not necessarily in a
VetBooks.ir

straight line, moving from point A to point B. Sometimes you have to go back
and add small "a" and small "b" to the way you communicate. This is what I
meant at the beginning of this book when saying: need to readjust some of the
seams over time... Do not forget that it is through consistency and repetition
that your parrot assimilates new behaviours. Some concepts are more difficult
to assimilate and will take more time. We must learn to rationalize our
expectations as it is only in very rare cases that a parrot will understand what
you expect of him the first time.

This is why I stress the word repetition: meaning doing again, repeating
several times...

As I mentioned throughout the book, each bird has his own personality and
adaptability that you must accommodate. It is normal and human to want rapid
development, but remember that it is very psittacid to wait and see. Parrots are
by their nature wary of change, and this includes the change in attitude of the
members of their social group. With a more cautious bird, it is sometimes
necessary to go even slower and to review often what has been learned. Every
effort must be acknowledged and each step must also be positively reinforced
in order to make your parrot more confident in the face of new experiences to
come. Now it is time to refer again to the first chapters of this book, you know,
those dealing with the time it takes to, the time required... always following
the bird’s pace... being constant... developing trust, etc. and see if you can
identify a little something you may have missed.

359
VetBooks.ir

Conclusion
Take the time required... - is a little phrase that I often insert in my texts and I
am aware of this. But no other formulation summarizes so exactly the notion of
respect essential to any act of taming. A parrot who surrenders with confidence
in your arms is the most rewarding of gifts; a gift for yourself and for the bird.
An animal that evolves with few concerns alongside us, is that not the ultimate
goal to achieve when taking the decision to adopt? With the touching, you gain
the most powerful tool available for interspecies communication. This carnal
mode of transmission gives transparency to our feelings of love and affection
better than any other senses, and that, to the delight of our bird.

Of course, most parrots are well aware that human hands can grab them, hold
them against their will and that humans are much stronger than them, but in
response, they are also likely to learn quickly how to guard against this. In
these cases, the beak can become an excellent way to deter for the
knowledgeable parrot.

It is your role to show your bird that your hands can also be soft, generous, fun,
entertaining and above all reassuring; that these hands are not threatening and
should not be feared, and that he does not have to defend against them. Use the
touch in a good way to deepen your relationship, strengthen your attachment
with your parrot to finally become unique in the world!

360
VetBooks.ir

Bibliography
The bibliography of this book, resulting from numerous and various readings
over the years, cannot be exhaustive. You will find here works that were
particularly useful to me in the development of this work.

Auroux Maurice. 2003. Anatomie du pouvoir, psychobiologie de l'autorité,

Ed. François-Xavier de Guibert.
Montagu Ashley. 1979. La peau et le toucher, Ed. du Seuil.
Clerget Joël. 1997. La main de l'autre, le geste, le contact et la peau :
approche psychanalytique, Ed. Eres.
Davis Christine. 1999. Seminars in avian and exotic pet medicine, Ed. W.B.
Saunders Company, Vol. 8, No. 4.
Field Tiffany. 1985. Psychobiology of attachment, Academic Press.
Hamann Aimé, Deshaies Gilles, Dubé Clémence, Pelletier Roch, Richard
Fernande, Rioux Gilles. 1993. L'abandon corporel, Ed. Stanke.
Hausser Marc D. 2000. Wild minds, Ed. Henry Holt and Company.
Ross Jay. 2004. Travailler avec des personnes difficiles, Ed. Village mondial.
Lorenz Konrad. 1990. Évolution et modification du comportement, Ed. Payot.
Martin Steve. 2002. The Anatomy of Parrot Behavior,
www.naturalencounters.com, Conference presented at the A.A.V. (Association
of Avian Veterinarians), Monterey California.
Martin Steve. Things That Make You Go "Hmmm", article from Natural
Encounters website, www.naturalencounters.com.
Veldman Frans. 2001. Haptonomie, science de l'affectivité, Presses
universitaires de France.
Savatofsk Joël. 2002. Le toucher apprivoisé, Ed. Lamarre.
Snyder Peter J., PH.D. 1996. Are parrots really left-footed, Bird Talk
magazine, February.

361
VetBooks.ir

About the Author

Johanne Vaillancourt is a francophone Quebec avian activist, recognized in the
parrot community in Canada and in Europe. Her approaches are unique and her
relation with regard to these animals is marked by originality. Serial essayist,
author, inspired speaker and great popularizer, she advocates for the respect of
parrots as well as for a greater understanding of their sensibility and their
needs. Her books, sprinkled with a dry humour will move the readers and are
meant to help them achieve better communion with their avian companion.

Vaillancourt founded in 1988, while working as a veterinary assistant for

exotic animals, the Centre Aviaire Johanne Vaillancourt (CAJV - Johanne
Vaillancourt Avian Center) with the objective of helping people better
understand their parrots and to prevent abuse resulting from lack of knowledge.
At the same time, she co-founded in 1992 the Association Quebecoise des
Amateurs de Perroquets and established and managed during several years the
first Quebec Refuge for parrots, devoted to the rehabilitation of abandoned
birds with different levels of problem behaviour in the objective of reinserting
them into a family environment with humans. Because of its large sampling of
parrots, the Refuge served as a sort of laboratory and allowed Vaillancourt to
observe and study these birds for years in a domestic context, helping her to
better understand their physiological and psychological needs.

Invited regularly to appear on radio and television, she also lectures,

participating in conferences and seminars throughout Quebec and French-
speaking Europe on the subject of parrots living in captivity. She also teaches
through private consultations and group classes the art of day to day living with
a parrot, using the psittaforms ethograms as starting point.

Johanne Vaillancourt is also the author of two DVD (French), numerous

articles on parrot behaviour published in specialized magazines and lately of
an easy method to socialize and educate parrots through games and playful
interactions available in the book "Playing with a parrot".

362
 Between 2003 and 2005, she wrote a series of fifteen courses for her group of
VetBooks.ir

students, now being translated and offered as books in the "Parrot Users
Manual Collection". Johanne so opens the way for a possible understanding of
the world of parrots and makes accessible to all the opportunity to deepen and
live a beautiful relationship with this highly intelligent animal; to the happiness
and satisfaction of both parties.

363
VetBooks.ir

Publisher's Note
Thank you for purchasing this book by Johanne Vaillancourt.

After you have turned this page, Amazon will offer you to express your
appreciation. Please, take a few moments to rate it and thus indicate to others
parrot human if it could be of help to them.

If this guide truly helped you understand your parrot and you believe it may
help improve your relationship with your bird, would you also take a few
minutes to let it know your friends of the parrot community?

To further know about Johanne Vaillancourt, you can visit her Amazon author
page, read free parrot's texts on her Website page and follow her on her
FaceBook’s page.
http://www.parrot-parrots.com (English)
http://twitter.com/Jo_Vaill (English and French)
http://facebook.com/johanne.vaillancourt.167 (English and French)
http://www.perroquet-perroquets.com (French)

To submit any comments on the text to help improve the translation, you may
contact us at http://www.perroquet-anarchiste.ca/contact.php

364
 Table of Contents
VetBooks.ir

Credentials 6
Foreword 9
Your Parrot 12
Sensuality 19
The Touch 27
Why Touch a Parrot? 33
The Taming 37
Developping Trust 45
Fearing Bites 55
The Untouchables 62
Your Hands 71
Caresses and Hugs 75
Intermission - A One-Person Bird 80
Up..! Up..! Hey! What's Up Doc??? 83
The Step Up Request 86
Teaching a Parrot to "Step Up" 90
Intermission - Delineate the Flying-Off Zone 93
Intermission - The Third Leg 99
Stepping Down 101
From the Rear 103
Floor Routine 105
The Art of Proper Perching 108
The Staircase 115
A Foot on Each Hand 117
Intermission - Left vs. Right-Handed 120
365
 Conjuring Bites 122
VetBooks.ir

Intermission - The Nibbling 131

Use of a Perch for the More Difficult Parrot 134
Using a Towel for a Very, Very Difficult Parrot 145
Taking the Bird from his Cage 148
Patience and length of time... 156
Be Constant 160
A Minimum of Free Will 162
Ways to Misuse the Step Up 165
Trust and Intimacy (Gentle Manipulations) 175
The Initiation 177
Feathers not Hairs 180
And the head... and the feet... and the tail... 182
The Parrot Touch 189
Come Over Here that I Cuddle You 191
French Kiss... no Lips! 197
So Gooooooood! 201
Embracing and Hugging your Parrot 207
See What the World Looks Like 214
When you have to... (Unavoidable Manipulations) 216
Item: the Towel 218
Method of Desensitization to the Towel 219
Games and Manipulations with a Towel to Maintain
223
Confidence
Wrapping your Bird for a Necessary Contention 226
Towelling Methods for First Necessities 228

366