Dr.

Muhammad Rizwan Khan

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What are Textiles?
 The word textile originated
from Latin word Textilis
which means woven, fabric,
cloth.
 The textiles can be defined as
the products which are
formed by the interlacement
of fibers or yarn.
 The broad definition covers
any product intermediate, or
final made in textile industry.
 Therefore, the term textile
includes fibers, filaments,
yarns, woven, knitted and
braided cloths as well as
nonwoven fabrics.
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Fiber
 A "fiber" is defined
as any product capable
of being woven or
otherwise made into a
fabric.
 It may be thought of as
the smallest visible unit
of textile production.
 A fiber can be defined as
a pliable hair like
strand that is very small
in diameter in relation
to its length.
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Textiles: A basic flow chart

Fibre Yarn Fabric

Garment Processing 4
Process Flow of Textile Product
Manufacturing

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Development Phases of Textile Product

 T- Shirt
1- Selection of raw materials( e.g. Type , Composition)
2- Selection of yarn quality ( e.g. Count, twist CLSP)
3- Fabric construction( e.g. Woven, Knitted , Design)
4- Colour or printing ( e.g. Dyes, finishes, logos printing)
5-Gamrent manufacturing( e.g. Style , Size)
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 Textile Raw Materials
 Based on origin, the textile
raw materials are
classified into two main
categories.
 Natural fibers are those
provided by Nature in
ready-made form and need
only to be extracted.
 Man-made fibers are
generated by humans
from the things which were
not in fiber form previously

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 Natural Fibers
 Natural fibers are
divided into three main
classes according to the
nature of source (origin),
1. Vegetable fibers,
2. Animal fibers,
3. Mineral fibers.

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Natural Fibers Sources
 Cellulosic (plants)
 Cotton
 From cotton plants
 Flax (linen)
 From flax stems

 Protein (animals)
 Silk
 From cocoons of silkworms
 Wool
 From fleece (hair) of sheep or lambs

 Minerals fiber(rocks)
 Asbestos
 From rocks

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Vegetable Fibers
 Vegetable fibers include the most important of the
entire textile fibers “cotton” together with flax, hemp,
jute, sisal and other fibers which are produced by
plants.
 They are cellulose based; the material used by nature
as structural material in the plant world.
 They can be collected from different parts of plants
and are hence classified based on their source of
collection from the plant.

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Animal Fibers
 Animal fibers include wool and other hair-like fibers
and fibers such as silk, produced by silkworms.
 These animal fibers are protein based, the complex
material which most of animal body is made of.

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Mineral Fibers
 Mineral fibers are of less importance in the textile
trade.
 Asbestos is the most useful fiber of this class.
 The outstanding property of asbestos fiber is its
resistance to heat and burning.
 They are also highly resistant to acids, alkalis, and
other chemicals.
 These fibers are used to make special fire-proof and
industrial fabrics.

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 Asbestos

Mineral Fibers
Man-made Fibers
 Man-made fibers are classified
into synthetic and
regenerated fibers.
 The polymers used for the
spinning of synthetic fibers
are chemical based,
 Regenerated fibers are
derived from a natural
polymer, most commonly
cellulose.

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Spinning of Man-made Fibers
 There are three most common techniques employed in
the production of man-made fibers:
 Wet spinning,
 Melt spinning,
 Dry spinning.
 These techniques vary in the method of liquefying the
raw material (powder or pellet).
 The term spinning here defines the extrusion process
of liquefied polymer through spinnerets to solidify in a
continuous flow.

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Spinning of Man-made Fibers

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Spinneret
 A metal nozzle type device with very fine holes used in the
spinning process of manufactured fibers.

 The spinning solution is forced or extruded through the

small holes to form continuous filament fibers.

 The holes in the spinneret can vary in diameter to produce

fibers of various denier.
 Melt Spinning
Process Flow Chart of Melt Spinning

Feeding (Polymer chips)

↓
Melting
↓
Metered extrusion
↓
Cooling and solidification by cold air
↓
 Melt spinning uses heat to melt the
Moisture conditioning
polymer to a viscosity suitable for
↓ extrusion.
Lubrication
 This type of spinning is used for polymers
↓ that are not decomposed or degraded by
Yarn driving the temperatures necessary for extrusion.
↓  This method is used by 70% of the fibers.
Packaging 18
Solution Spinning
 In case of solution spinning, the polymer is dissolved
in variable concentrations according to the kind of
polymer and of solvent to produce a viscous liquid
(dope).
 It is used for the polymers that degrade thermally at a
temperature lower than melting point (cellulosic
fibers).
 The extruded filaments are subject to structural
changes due to solvent extraction from the polymer
mass.
 The solution spinning is further divided into two types,
 Dry spinning,
 Wet spinning. 19
Dry Spinning
 This process involves use of fiber liquid solution
which pumping through spinneret into an air
chamber.
 The air reacts with extruded streams, of liquid
fiber causing them to solidify.
 These coagulated fibers drain out of chamber,
twisted, or processed then wound onto spools.

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Wet Spinning
Working Flow Chart of Wet Spinning Process

At first solid polymer and the suitable solvent is dissolved in a

solution vessel.
↓
The solution is then heated in the heat exchanger.
↓
The solution is passed/extruded to spinneret which immersed in a
coagulation bath/spin bath by pump.
↓
The polymer is chemically regenerated, and it is converted into the
filament of solid form.
↓
The filament is converged and wound on the bobbin.
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 Man-made fiber

Organic In-organic

Regenerated(by From Synthetic

transformation of Polymer Carbon
natural polymer
Fiber,
)

Viscose, Acetate, Glass

Triacetate, Lyocell,
Modal
Polyester, Polyamide,
Polypropyne, Amide Fiber

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Regenerated Fibers
 Regenerated fiber is created by dissolving the cellulose area of
plant fiber in chemicals and making it into fiber again.
 They are frequently derived from the cotton linters and wood pulp.

 The monomer of cellulose is the pure glucose with the formula

C6H12O6.
 Since it consists of cellulose like cotton and hemp, it is also called
“regenerated cellulose fiber”.
 The main regenerated cellulosic fiber are.

 Viscose Fiber

 Acetate Fiber
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 Viscose Fiber
 The production of viscose fiber
involves the process of solution
spinning.
 The viscose solution for spinning
is prepared by treating cellulose
with NaOH producing alkali
cellulose.
 This alkali cellulose reacts with
carbon disulphide to give
cellulose xanthate, which on
dissolution in NaOH gives viscose
solution.
 This solution is extruded from
the spinneret into the spinning
bath.
 The solidification into yarn takes
place in the spinning bath.
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 Acetate Fiber
 The raw material to produce
acetate fibers is also cellulose,
but they are composed of
cellulose ester.
 The cellulose is mixed with
acetic anhydride and glacial
acetic acid under addition of
wet splitting chemicals.
 The spinning is carried out
according to the dry
spinning technique.
 The spinning solution is
transported to the spinning
pump and extruded through
spinneret.
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 Acetate Fiber
 The filaments exiting the
spinneret are passed
through stream of warm
air in the quench duct
which leads to
evaporation of solvent
acetone and alcohol and
freezing of filaments.
 During the passage, the
filaments are drawn,
combined, oiled, and
wound onto bobbins.
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Synthetic(organic based)
 In contrast to chemical fibers from natural polymer
whose chain molecule already exist in nature , the
chain molecule of chemical fiber from synthetic
polymer are produced artificially by synthesis of
monomers.
 Commonly used synthetic fiber are:
 Polyester
 Polyamide/Nylon

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Nylon/Polyamide
 Nylon fibers are made up
of linear macromolecules
whose structural units are
linked by the amide (–
NH–CO–) group.
 Therefore, these fibers are
termed as the polyamides.
 There are several forms of
nylon, each depends upon
the chemical synthesis,
they are nylon 4,6,6.6,10 .

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 Polyester (PET)
 Polyethylene terephthalate
(PET), also called polyester fiber
dominates the world synthetic
fibers industry.
 Polyester is a term often defined as
“long-chain polymers chemically
composed of at least 85% by
weight of an ester and a dihydric
alcohol and a terephthalic acid”.
 In other words, it means the
linking of several esters within
the fibers.
 Reaction of alcohol with
carboxylic acid results in the
formation of esters 30
 Inorganic Fibers
 Inorganic fibers are essentially composed by
inorganic chemical compounds, based on natural
elements like carbon and other minerals such as
silicon and boron, which, in general, after receiving
treatment at high temperatures, are turned into
fibers.
 The outstanding features of these fibers are their
resistance to high temperatures and high mechanical
strength.
 Because of these important properties they are also
Known as "high-performance fibers” e.g., Carbon and
Glass fiber. 31
Glass Fiber
 Glass is a non-metallic fiber,
widely used as industrial
material these days.
 Generally, the glass state is
defined as the frozen state of a
super cooled and thus solidified
liquid.
 The basic raw materials for glass
fiber include a variety of natural
minerals and manufactured
chemicals.
 The major ingredients are silica
sand, limestone, and soda ash. 32
 Glass Fiber
 Silica sand is used as the
glass former, while soda ash
and limestone help to lower
the melting temperature.
 A low coefficient of thermal
expansion combined with low
thermal conductivity
properties make glass fiber a
dimensionally stable
material that rapidly
dissipates heat as compared to
asbestos and organic fibers.

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 Carbon Fiber
 A carbon fiber is a long, thin
strand about 5–10 μm in
diameter and composed
mostly of carbon atoms.
 The carbon atoms are
bonded together in
microscopic crystals that are
aligned parallel to the axis of
the fiber.
 This crystal alignment makes
the fiber incredibly strong.
 Several thousand carbon
fibers are joined together to
form a yarn.
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Types of Textile Fiber
On basis of length , there are two main types of fiber

Fibers

Staple Fibers Filament

Fibers
Types of Textile Fiber
Staple Fibers:
 Short fibers, typically ranging from 1/2 inch up to 18 inches
long. Wool, cotton, and flax exist only as staple fibers.
 Manufactured staple fibers are cut to a specific length from
the continuous filament fiber.
Filament Fibers:
 A manufactured fiber of indefinite length (continuous),
extruded from the spinneret during the fiber production
process.
Important Parameters of Textile Fiber
 Fiber Length
 Fiber length is the average length of the longer half of the fibers (upper half mean length).

 Fiber Strength
 Fiber strength denotes the maximum tension the fiber can sustain before breaking.

 Flexibility
 Property of fibers related to their ability to be bent or folded.

 Fineness
 Fiber fineness can be defined in micronaire (μg/inch) which measures units of mass
(micrograms or μg) per unit of length (inches) to assess linear density.
 The Fiber Fineness determines how many fibers are present in the cross-section of a
yarn of given thickness.

 Crimp
 Fiber crimp is the waviness of a fiber expressed as waves or crimps per unit length.
Cotton
 Cotton is a soft, staple fiber that
grows in a protective capsule
known as boll around the seeds of
cotton plant.
 Each fiber is composed of single
elongated cell that is flat twisted
and ribbon like with a wide inner
hollow (lumen).

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Cotton
 The fiber is spun into yarn and used
to make a soft, breathable textile,
which is the most widely used form
of textile for clothing.
 Cotton fiber can be used as blend
with other fiber like polyester,
viscose ,acrylic etc.

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Cotton
 It contains 90% cellulose, 6% moisture and the
remainder fats and impurities.

Carbon = 46.68%
Hydrogen = 6.21%
Oxygen = 49.11%

 The outer surface is covered with a protective wax like

coating which gives fiber an adhesive quality.

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Flax Fiber
 The linen fiber is obtained from the stalk of the
flax plant.
 It has lumen and composed of about 70%
cellulose and 30% pectin,ash,woody tissue and
moisture.

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Jute
 Jute is known as the “golden fiber” due to its golden-
brown color and its importance.
 Jute belongs to bast fiber category and is normally spun
in the form of coarse threads.
 Contrary to most vegetable fibers which consist mainly of
cellulose, jute fibers are part cellulose and part lignin.

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Protein Fiber
 Wool
 Wool is obtained from the fleece of domesticated
animals like sheep and goat.
 Wool and hair fiber are the natural hair of certain
animals and are composed of protein.
 Protein consists of complex organic compounds
containing amino acids.
 It is also derived in lesser quantity from camels, yaks
and rabbits.
 Wool is a versatile, durable and elastic fiber. It is made
up of proteins.
 The fleece of sheep is spun to make yarn.
 The yarn is then weaved to make woolen clothes.
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Sources of Wool fiber
 Sheep
 Goat
 Camel
 Rabbit
 Yak

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 Silk Fibers
 Silk is an important
animal fiber.
 It is strong, lustrous, soft
and is produced in long
continuous strands.
 It is made up of proteins.
 The rearing and
management of
silkworms for obtaining
the silk is called
sericulture.
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